20171125 Danube Waltz
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Danube Waltz Saturday, November 25, 2017 We arrived on time in Munich and quickly cleared customs. A Viking representative met us and as we were assembling I changed dollars for Euros. When all of our group w as collected we went outside to board the bus but our coach had been redirected around the airport once again by the polizi so we waited for another fifteen minutes. Oliver, our driver, arrived in a Viking coach and we set out for the 130 kilometer drive north to Passau. We were delighted by the beautiful drive through Bavaria. As we drove we saw numerous fields containing solar panels. These went on for miles. We also saw a nuclear power plant and one windmill. Arriving at the city we saw a Viking ship at the city center but that was not our vessel. The Skadi was three kilometers further. We would in-process to the ship and sail to the city center later. Passau is a town in Lower Bavaria, Germany. It is also known as the Dreiflüssestadt or "City of Three Rivers," because the Danube is joined at Passau by the Inn from the south and the Ilz from the north. Passau's population is 50,000 of whom about 12,000 are students at the local University of Passau. It is renowned in Germany for its institutes of economics, law, theology, computer 107 science and cultural studies. In the 2nd century BC, many of the Boii tribe were pushed north across the Alps out of northern Italy by the Romans. They established a new capital called Boiodurum by the Romans (from Gaulish Boioduron), now within the Innstadt district of Passau. Passau was an ancient Roman colony of ancient Noricum called Batavis, Latin for "for the Batavi." The Batavi were an ancient Germanic tribe often mentioned by classical authors, and they were regularly associated with the Suebian marauders, the Heruli. During the second half of the 5th century, St. Severinus established a monastery here. In 739, an English monk called Boniface founded the diocese of Passau, which for many years was the largest diocese of the German Kingdom/Holy Roman Empire, covering territory in southern Bavaria and most of what is now Upper and Lower Austria. From the 10th century the bishops of Passau also exercised secular authority as Prince-Bishops in the immediate area around Passau. In the Treaty of Passau (1552), Archduke Ferdinand I, representing Emperor Charles V, secured the agreement of the Protestant princes to submit the religious question to a diet. This led to the Peace of Augsburg in 1555. During the Renaissance and early modern period, Passau was one of the most prolific centers of sword and bladed weapon manufacture in Germany (after Solingen). Passau smiths stamped their blades with the Passau wolf, usually a rather simplified rendering of the wolf on the city's coat-of-arms. Superstitious warriors believed that the Passau wolf conferred invulnerability on the blade's bearer, and thus Passau swords acquired a great premium. According to the Donau-Zeitung, aside from the wolf, some cabalistic signs and inscriptions were added. As a result, the whole practice of placing magical charms on swords to protect the wearers came to be known for a time as "Passau art". Other cities' smiths, including those of Solingen, recognized the marketing value of the Passau wolf and adopted it for themselves. By the 17th century, Solingen was producing more wolf- stamped blades than Passau did. After a light lunch we boarded a bus for a walking tour of the town. Alexander, our local guide, familiarized us with the area. Of Chinese ancestry, his parents came to this city and operated a restaurant. He was born and grew up in the city but had no intention of continuing the business which was failing as he finished school. He then helped his mother adjust to retirement and stated she believes they should have abandoned the business years ago. We drove to the center of the town where the Viking Skadi was docked. Tonight our ship will move to that berth and we will have breakfast at that location. But today we will have an initial orientation and then return to our ship upstream. As we walked Alexander told us Alexander told us that there are 12,000 students at the University of Passau. It is renowned in Germany for its institutes of economics, law, theology, computer science and cultural studies. “Passau became a major migrant entry point into Germany. Refugees and economic migrants from the Middle East, Asia and Africa who have reached Europe, often entering either overland via Greece or across the sea via the Mediterranean, then head north and sometimes enter Germany. In 2015 the BBC reported that traffickers drive migrants and refugees through Austria and leave them on the side of the autobahn. The migrants and refugees then often walk unaccompanied into Passau, the first German town northwards. This situation has caused the government of Passau to divert funds from flood prevention to housing and feeding the refugees and migrants, around 10% of whom are unaccompanied 108 children.” After our orientation we had a little time to explore and shop. The stores would be closed tomorrow so this would be our only opportunity here. There were some cafés on the square and people were bundled up in the open air seating and enjoying Glühwein. The Kristkindl Markt would not open until Thursday but we will have many opportunities to shop the markets in other cities further down the river. Liz did check our some of the souvenir shops and we did sample the Glühwein and bought the Kristkindl Markt cups to bring home. 109 Returning to the ship, we went to the lounge for a cheese and wine tasting followed by the welcome briefing. We met two other couples and introduced ourselves. It turned out to be a fortuitous meeting as we became friends quickly and would join each other for cocktail hours, dinner, and excursions for the entire cruise. Lori and Chuck Beckey live in Littleton, CO. They are celebrating their 50th wedding anniversary this cruise. Lou Phillips lives in Windham, ME and his sister, Pat Batary, lives in Broadview Hights, OH. Lou and Pat are of Hungarian descent and he surprised his sister, with the help of her daughter, with this trip for her birthday. They would help give us insight to some of the traditions and food choices we would learn while we toured. Our Program Director, Chantal de Goede, opened the briefing and welcomed us to the Viking Skadi. “The giantess Skadi is the Norse goddess of winter. She is also associated with hunting and skiing. When her father is slain by the gods, Skadi straps on her armor and weapons and heads to Asgard, home of the gods, to avenge his death.” Captain Peter Titz and the Hotel Manager Katja Geyersbach were introduced in turn. Chantal then explained what would happen this evening and reviewed tomorrow's program. Maitre D' Marta Zburinova and Executive Chef Mario Tayong stepped forward and the chef announced the recommended menu choices for tonight, adding suggested wine parings as well. We then went to the restaurant for dinner. As we dined the ship cast off from Lindau and proceeded to the Passau berth. Sunday, November 26, 2017 After breakfast we met Hans, our local guide for a walking tour of Passau. Hans grew up in Passau and spoke with the authority of a native who loves his homeland. One of his first comments, echoing those of Alexander the day before, was “the blue Danube” is not blue. There is too much soil from the farmlands to ever have been “blue.” Hans said, “The earliest evidence of human settlement dates back to the Neolithic. Passau was part of the Roman Empire for more than 400 years. It became an Episcopal seat in the year 739 AD. Passau was an independent prince bishopric for over 600 years. Finally in 1803 Passau was annexed into Bavaria. The setting of the Old Town, created by Italian baroque masters in the 17th century, shows soaring towers, picturesque places, enchanting promenades and romantic lanes. In the heart of Passau on the Old Town’s highest point rises St. Stephen’s Cathedral, in which the world’s largest cathedral organ sounds. Sitting high above the rivers, the majestic fortress Veste Oberhaus on the Danube’s side and the Pilgrimage Church "Mariahilf" on the Inn’s side frame the city outstandingly beauty.” Today we would not be distracted by shopping although there were a few purely souvenir shops open. However, Hans held our attention as we wandered through the streets. We walked toward the Rathaus as he spoke of the impact of three rivers and resulting trade on the development of this city. The Danube is Europe's second-longest river, after the Volga River. It's source is Donaueschingen, Germany. The Ilz begins in the Bavarian forest, and the Inn begins in the Swiss Alps. 110 As we came closer to the city hall Hans spoke of the flooding in 2013. The levels of high water were marked on the entrance of the Rathaus and the only higher water level was about a foot higher... in 1501. This was well over the entrance to the building. As we walked past pastel facades of the buildings Hans pointed out the Veste Oberhaus high above the city. “This fortress was built in 1219 by Ulrich II, the first prince-bishop of Passau, at the location of a previously existing chapel dedicated to St. George.