MONTE ROSA 4000S
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Dufourspitze 4634M £1699
Icicle Mountaineering Ltd | 11a Church Street Windermere | Lake District | LA23 1AQ | UK Tel +44 (0)1539 44 22 17 | [email protected] Website: www.icicle-mountaineering.ltd.uk Online: shop.icicle-mountaineering.ltd.uk 2020 trip dossier | Dufourspitze 4634m £1699 Website link | http://www.icicle-mountaineering.ltd.uk/dufourspitze.html Key features Climb Dufourspitze, the highest mountain in Switzerland and second highest in the Alps.. 5 days guiding (Monday - Friday), with flexible itinerary to take advantage of the best conditions. Previous crampon or climbing experience is required, as this is a progression from an Intro course. Led by top qualified guides (IFMGA), guiding ratio 1:2 throughout the course. All technical equipment (e.g. B3 boots, crampons, ice axe etc.) can be hired from Icicle 2020 dates; 5 - 11 Jul, 19 - 25 Jul, 26 Jul - 1 Aug, 9 - 15 Aug, 30 Aug -+- 5 Sep. Icicle® is the registered trademark of Icicle Mountaineering UK registered company 413 6635. VAT 770 137 933 20 years ‘inspirational mountain adventure holidays’ established in 2000 Icicle Mountaineering Ltd | 11a Church Street Windermere | Lake District | LA23 1AQ | UK Tel +44 (0)1539 44 22 17 | [email protected] Website: www.icicle-mountaineering.ltd.uk Online: shop.icicle-mountaineering.ltd.uk Course overview . Climb the highest summit of Monte Rosa; Dufourspitze 4634m. It's the highest mountain in Switzerland, and the second highest in all of the Alps after Mont Blanc. We offer a week long programme to attempt this peak, as your acclimatisation and flexibility for selecting a weather window are crucial. To keep the itinerary flexibilty, the guiding ratio is 1:2 throughout, so you can take advantage of the best days for the summit weather window. -
4000 M Peaks of the Alps Normal and Classic Routes
rock&ice 3 4000 m Peaks of the Alps Normal and classic routes idea Montagna editoria e alpinismo Rock&Ice l 4000m Peaks of the Alps l Contents CONTENTS FIVE • • 51a Normal Route to Punta Giordani 257 WEISSHORN AND MATTERHORN ALPS 175 • 52a Normal Route to the Vincent Pyramid 259 • Preface 5 12 Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey 101 35 Dent d’Hérens 180 • 52b Punta Giordani-Vincent Pyramid 261 • Introduction 6 • 12 North Face Right 102 • 35a Normal Route 181 Traverse • Geogrpahic location 14 13 Gran Pilier d’Angle 108 • 35b Tiefmatten Ridge (West Ridge) 183 53 Schwarzhorn/Corno Nero 265 • Technical notes 16 • 13 South Face and Peuterey Ridge 109 36 Matterhorn 185 54 Ludwigshöhe 265 14 Mont Blanc de Courmayeur 114 • 36a Hörnli Ridge (Hörnligrat) 186 55 Parrotspitze 265 ONE • MASSIF DES ÉCRINS 23 • 14 Eccles Couloir and Peuterey Ridge 115 • 36b Lion Ridge 192 • 53-55 Traverse of the Three Peaks 266 1 Barre des Écrins 26 15-19 Aiguilles du Diable 117 37 Dent Blanche 198 56 Signalkuppe 269 • 1a Normal Route 27 15 L’Isolée 117 • 37 Normal Route via the Wandflue Ridge 199 57 Zumsteinspitze 269 • 1b Coolidge Couloir 30 16 Pointe Carmen 117 38 Bishorn 202 • 56-57 Normal Route to the Signalkuppe 270 2 Dôme de Neige des Écrins 32 17 Pointe Médiane 117 • 38 Normal Route 203 and the Zumsteinspitze • 2 Normal Route 32 18 Pointe Chaubert 117 39 Weisshorn 206 58 Dufourspitze 274 19 Corne du Diable 117 • 39 Normal Route 207 59 Nordend 274 TWO • GRAN PARADISO MASSIF 35 • 15-19 Aiguilles du Diable Traverse 118 40 Ober Gabelhorn 212 • 58a Normal Route to the Dufourspitze -
Trip Factsheet: Monte Rosa Climber Zermatt Zermatt Is a Charming
Trip Factsheet: Monte Rosa Climber Zermatt Zermatt is a charming alpine village. It is car-free and reached only by a 15 minute train journey from the valley station of Tasch. As you would expect given its location it is one of Europe's main centres of Alpinism and is a bustling town in both winter and summer. The town is at 1,650m/5,420ft. Zermatt is in the German-speaking section of Switzerland. English (and French) are widely spoken. For further details on Zermatt click on the Zermatt Tourism website at www.zermatt.ch/en/ Monte Rosa (4,634m/15,203ft) Monte Rosa is the second highest mountain in the Alps and the highest mountain in Switzerland. The Monte Rosa is known in German as the Dufourspitze. It is in the Monte Rosa massif which is a range that lies on the border between Switzerland and Italy and is made up of several summits over 4500m, including Nordend, Zumsteinspitze, Signalkuppe and Ludwigshohe. Monte Rosa is located in the Pennine Alps (at 45°56′12.6″N, 7°52′01.4″E), 12kms east of Zermatt. It was first climbed in 1855. We usually ascend Monte Rosa over a 3 day period via the West ridge - the route is graded AD. The ascent begins from the Monte Rosa Hut which is accessed via the Gornergrat railway and a 2 hour trek. Summit day is a long, steady climb with 1800m of ascent to the highest point, called the Dufourspitze. There is a short grade 3 rock section and ice-slopes up to 40 degrees. -
Firn Changes at Colle Gnifetti Revealed with a High-Resolution Process
https://doi.org/10.5194/tc-2020-367 Preprint. Discussion started: 21 January 2021 c Author(s) 2021. CC BY 4.0 License. Firn changes at Colle Gnifetti revealed with a high-resolution process-based physical model approach Enrico Mattea1, Horst Machguth1, Marlene Kronenberg1, Ward van Pelt2, Manuela Bassi3, and Martin Hoelzle1 1Department of Geosciences, University of Fribourg, Fribourg, Switzerland 2Department of Earth Sciences, Uppsala University, Uppsala, Sweden 3Department of Forecasting Systems, Regional Agency for Environmental Protection of Piedmont, Turin, Italy Correspondence: Enrico Mattea ([email protected]) Abstract. Our changing climate is expected to affect ice core records as cold firn progressively transitions to a temperate state. Thus there is a need to improve understanding and further develop quantitative process modeling, to better predict cold firn evolution under a range of climate scenarios. Here we present the application of a distributed, fully coupled energy balance model, to simulate high-alpine cold firn at Colle Gnifetti over the period 2003–2018. For the first time, we force such a model 5 with high-resolution, long-term and extensively quality-checked meteorological data measured in closest vicinity of the firn site, at the Capanna Margherita (4560 m a.s.l.). The model incorporates the spatial variability of snow accumulation rates, and is calibrated using several, partly unpublished high-altitude measurements from the Monte Rosa area. The simulation reveals a very good overall agreement in the comparison with a large archive of firn temperature profiles. The rate of firn warming at 20 m depth is estimated at 0.44 ◦C per decade. -
Monte Rosa Course & Ascents
MONTE ROSA COURSE & ASCENTS EX CHAMONIX 2022 COURSE NOTES MONTE ROSA COURSE & ASCENTS TRIP NOTES 2022 COURSE DETAILS Dates: Available on demand Duration: 6 days Departure: ex Chamonix, France Price: €4,550 for 1:1 guide to climber ratio €2,700 for 1:2 guide to climber ratio Sunset from Zumsteinspitze. Photo: Bruce Mackintosh This is one of the finest alpine outings at a moderate level of difficulty. The views are stupendous; from the Matterhorn to the elegant North Face of Lyskamm and the knuckled mass of the Dufourspitze, it is impossible to forget the scenery. After a day of training and acclimatisation above Courmayeur, you will spend the week with ice axe and crampons, passing from Italy to Switzerland and back again. The Monte Rosa Course is also a Grand Traverse, a ridiculously scenic journey that includes up to ten 4,000m peaks. This course, departing from Chamonix, France, will appeal to those with previous mountaineering SKILLS COVERED experience who want to enjoy a new region and • Alpine mountaineering equipment—what to use collect plenty of summits. It is also appropriate for and how to choose first time alpinists with a good level of fitness and a • Rope work—tying in and basic climbing knots hiking or rock climbing background. Instruction can • Travelling over different terrain—progression be included into your itinerary to get you started, from glacier to rock and ice climbs followed by the ascents themselves. • Objective dangers—awareness and avoidance Throughout the week you will climb under the • Alpine huts—early starts and etiquette supervision of our experienced and professional mountain guide(s). -
Mountaineering in the Monte Rosa Massif. Contents
Mountaineering in the Monte Rosa Massif. Contents. Overview 1 Team 2 Background 5 Planning & financials 9 Mountaineering training 12 Tour itinerary 16 Concluding remarks 32 Summary Aims This report gives an overview of • Train mountaineering skills an alpine tour conducted in the Monte Rosa massif in August 2020, • Summit more than ten peaks Overview. supported by the Exploration above 4000m in one week Board of Imperial College London and the Old Centralians’ Trust. The • Minimise environmental impact common interest of our team was to take our first steps in high-altitude mountaineering. We were also keen to explore how the adverse environmental impact of such a trip may be minimized through choices made at the planning stage. The report covers preparatory work, an alpine training course in the Scottish Cairngorms and details of the tour in the Swiss and Italian alps taking in several peaks above 4000m. Scottish + Cairngorms London + + Monte Rosa Massif 1 Team 2 Team. Laura Braun Role: Expedition Leader Occupation: PhD Student, Imperial College London Age: 29 Laura researches technical interventions in the fight against neglected tropical diseases. Her passion for the outdoors manifests itself in the many hours spent climbing every week. Whenever London becomes too hectic, her touring bike quite literally becomes her escape. But often the downward facing dog, the warrior or child’s pose will also have the desired effect. Benedict Krueger Role: Deputy expedition leader, med. officer Occupation: PhD Student, Imperial College London Age: 27 Ben’s research focuses on exploring novel treatment technologies for human waste to improve sanitation in low- and middle-income countries. -
34 Aostatal V8
AOSTATAL UNTERWEGS Ski-ViertausenderSki-Viertausender im AostatalAostatal Frühjahrszeit ist Skihochtourenzeit. Wer in den Alpen ganz hoch hinaus will und zudem Genuss über die Schwierigkeit der Gipfel stellt, der findet auf den Auch wenn die Skihochtouren auf der Südseite des Monte Paradebergen zwischen Gran Paradiso Rosa gemeinhin als wenig schwierig gelten: Die Seraczone und Monte Rosa ein reichhaltiges unterhalb der Nordflanke der Parrotspitze signalisiert den Betätigungsfeld für Fell und Ski. Skibergsteigern, die Touren im Umkreis nicht zu unterschätzen. VON BERNHARD STÜCKLSCHWEIGER 34 35 AOSTATAL UNTERWEGS Bildliste oben: Das ai 1966: Der alte Postbus kommt zit- Zur optimalen Höhenanpassung besteigen Rifugio Vittorio Ema- ternd vor unserem Haus im hinteren wir tags darauf die 3609 Meter hohe La Tre- nuele (ganz links) wie MKleinsölktal zu stehen. Mit braunem senta, eine gemütliche Skitour mit knapp 900 das Rifugio Chabod Gesicht und strahlenden Augen, Norwegerpul- Höhenmetern. Ein einsamer schöner Gipfel, (Mitte) sind Stütz- lover und 32-fach verleimten Holzskiern steigt der neben dem Gran Paradiso ein Schattenda- punkte für die Tour mein Vater aus dem verstaubten Gefährt. End- sein führt. Der folgende Tag gehört aber ganz zum Gran Paradiso. lich ist er wieder zu Hause. Er kommt vom dem Gran Paradiso. Zweifellos ein erster Hö- Nach dem Aufstieg Aostatal. Während ich aufmerksam seinen Er- hepunkt in dieser Woche. Die ersten Stunden über weite Gletscher- zählungen zuhöre, von den 4000 Meter hohen ab dem Rifugio Emanuele sind meist in dem flächen rückt der fels- Bergen, den Steinböcken, Gämsen und Berg- nach Westen ausgerichteten Gletschertal bitter- durchsetzte Gipfel- bauern, die noch steilere Wiesen bewirtschaften kalt, aber dafür gewinnen wir über die ideal bereich näher (l.) und als wir in unserem Tal, keimt der Wunsch, auch geneigten und breiten Hänge recht flott an bald darauf steht man einmal dort in den Tälern und auf den Bergen Höhe. -
A Local Model of Snow-Firn Dynamics and Application to Colle Gnifetti Site
https://doi.org/10.5194/tc-2020-357 Preprint. Discussion started: 21 January 2021 c Author(s) 2021. CC BY 4.0 License. A local model of snow-firn dynamics and application to Colle Gnifetti site Fabiola Banfi1 and Carlo De Michele1 1Department of Civil and Environmental Engineering, Politecnico di Milano, Milano, Italy Correspondence: Fabiola Banfi (fabiola.banfi@polimi.it), Carlo De Michele ([email protected]) Abstract. The regulating role of glaciers on catchment run-off is of fundamental importance in sustaining people living in low lying areas. The reduction in glacierized areas under the effect of climate change disrupts the distribution and amount of run-off, threatening water supply, agriculture and hydropower. The prediction of these changes requires models that integrate hydrological, nivological and glaciological processes. In this work we propose a local model that combines the nivological and 5 glaciological scales, developed with the aim of a subsequent integration in hydrological distributed models. The model was derived from mass balance, momentum balance and rheological equations and describes the formation and evolution of the snowpack and the firn below it. The model was applied at the site of Colle Gnifetti (Monte Rosa massif, 4400–4550 m a.s.l.). 3 2 1 We obtained an average net accumulation of 0.26 10 kg m− y− to be compared with the observed net annual accumulation · 3 2 1 3 2 1 that increases from about 0.15 10 kg m− y− to about 1.2 10 kg m− y− moving from the north facing to the south facing · · 10 slope. -
One Man's Fourfhousanders
One Man's Fourfhousanders PETER FLEMING (Plates 41-47) No one in my family had ever shown more than scant interest in hills and mountains, and none could see any sense in climbing them. During my schooldays, as I never took an interest in sport and hated football and cricket, I was written off on school reports as an unmotivated weakling when it came to competitive games. But a new world opened up for me suddenly and dramatically when, at the age of 14, I discovered the Lakeland hills almost on my doorstep, and so it all began. Twelve months after I had left school the headmaster proudly announced at morning assembly that an Old Boy had made headlines in the local paper, upholding the school's high standards ofinitiative and achievement, and setting a fine example which he hoped everyone would remember and strive to maintain. This Old Boy had entered the first mountain trial in the Lake District as the youngest competitor and had come third over the finishing line, ahead of seasoned marathon and mountain runners. At last I had found a challenge, and it seemed that I had a natural affinity towards mountains. Four years later, in 1956- after an intensive apprenticeship, summer and winter, on Lakeland and Scottish hills -I made my first venture to the Alps. Four ofus from our local rambling club - Doug, Colin, Bill and I- drove out in a Ford Popular to Randa in Switzerland, where we took the rack railway to Zermatt. My neck ached with gazing at those awesome mountains. -
Englacial Temperatures Revealed No Evidence 5 of Warming at the firn Saddle of Colle Gnifetti at 4452 M A.S.L
Discussion Paper | Discussion Paper | Discussion Paper | Discussion Paper | The Cryosphere Discuss., 4, 2277–2305, 2010 The Cryosphere www.the-cryosphere-discuss.net/4/2277/2010/ Discussions TCD doi:10.5194/tcd-4-2277-2010 4, 2277–2305, 2010 © Author(s) 2010. CC Attribution 3.0 License. Englacial This discussion paper is/has been under review for the journal The Cryosphere (TC). temperatures Please refer to the corresponding final paper in TC if available. M. Hoelzle et al. Evidence of accelerated englacial Title Page warming in the Monte Rosa area, Abstract Introduction Switzerland/Italy Conclusions References Tables Figures M. Hoelzle1, G. Darms2, and S. Suter3 1Department of Geosciences, University of Fribourg, 1700 Fribourg, Switzerland J I 2 Department of Geography, University of Zurich, 8050 Zurich,¨ Switzerland J I 3Department of Construction, Traffic and Environment, Canton of Aargau, 5001 Aarau, Switzerland Back Close Received: 13 October 2010 – Accepted: 15 October 2010 – Published: 26 October 2010 Full Screen / Esc Correspondence to: M. Hoelzle ([email protected]) Printer-friendly Version Published by Copernicus Publications on behalf of the European Geosciences Union. Interactive Discussion 2277 Discussion Paper | Discussion Paper | Discussion Paper | Discussion Paper | Abstract TCD A range of englacial temperature measurements was acquired in the Monte Rosa area at the border of Switzerland and Italy in the years 1982, 1991, 1994, 1995, 1999, 4, 2277–2305, 2010 2000, 2003, 2007 and 2008. While the englacial temperatures revealed no evidence 5 of warming at the firn saddle of Colle Gnifetti at 4452 m a.s.l. between 1982 and 1991, Englacial ◦ the 1991 to 2000 period showed an increase of 0.05 C per year at a depth of 20 m. -
Easy Four-Thousanders in the Alps: Between Alpinism and Mass Tourism
12 GEOGRAPHY AND TOURISM, Vol. 6, No. 2 (2018), 119-128, Semi-Annual Journal eISSN 2449-9706, ISSN 2353-4524, DOI: 10.5281/zenodo.2144166 © Copyright by Kazimierz Wielki University Press, 2018. All Rights Reserved. http://geography.and.tourism.ukw.edu.pl Marcin Gorączko UTP University of Science and Technology, Faculty of Civil and Environmental Engineering and Architecture, Bydgoszcz, Poland, email: [email protected] Easy four-thousanders in the Alps: between alpinism and mass tourism Abstract: The article discusses natural and anthropogenic conditions of the present-day exploration of five Alpine moun- tain peaks – selected for the purpose of the present paper – standing at 4000 meters above sea level or higher, includ- ing Allalinhorn, Breithorn, Gran Paradiso, Punta Gnifetti (Signalkuppe) and Zumsteinspitze, which are referred to as easy Alpine four-thousanders. A common belief that the summits are easily accessible contributes to a higher volume of tourists in their region, which, besides favorable and relatively safe natural conditions, is further facilitated by intensive development of tourism infrastructure including mountain huts and most of all mountain railways. The analysis of the contemporary phenomenon of climbing easy four-thousanders almost on a massive scale provides basis for a discussion on the ongoing human impact on the environment in the highest Alps and the blurring of boundaries between a sport and elite mountain feat that requires both special qualifications and considerable experience and an objectively average achievement accessible to almost every physically fit tourist. Key words: alpine four-thousanders, Alpine tourism, mass tourism 1. Introduction Mountain areas are home to diverse tourist century (Kurek, 2004), its development on activities which irrespective of their nature a mass scale is a relatively new phenomenon. -
Imperial College Monte Rosa Massif Expedition Report
Imperial College Monte Rosa Massif Expedition Report Ben Coope, Konstantin Holzner, James Lawson, Tim Seers, Harry Stuart-Smith and Tom Wheeler June 2015 Abstract A team of six from Imperial College spent a month climbing in and around the Monte Rosa Massif region of the Valais Alps, Switzerland. The team faced poor weather consisting of almost unprecedented hot weather, with intermittent heavy snowfall leading to dangerous climbing conditions. The team did achieve success in furthering their ability to climb and travel in more exploratory scenarios. Figure 1: The view of the Sunset over the Italian Alps from the Rossi e Volante Bivouac Hut 1 Contents 1 Introduction 4 2 Aims & Objectives 4 3 Logistics 5 3.1 Travel . .5 3.2 Food.......................................6 3.3 Accommodation . .6 3.4 Training & Preperation . .6 3.5 Weather & Conditions . .7 3.6 Equipment . .8 4 Climbing Routes 9 4.1 Breithorn acclimatisation (PD) 31/05/2015 . .9 4.2 Alphubel attempt No.1 (PD-) 01-02/06/2015 . 10 4.3 Alphubel Attempt No.2 (PD-) 04/06/2015 . 11 4.4 Zinalrothorn attempt (AD) 03-04/06/2015 . 12 4.5 Monte Rosa Massif Traverse attempt (Nordend (PD) - Dufourspitze (PD+) - Signalkuppe (AD) 05-08/06/2015 . 13 4.6 T¨aschhorn Attempt (AD) 11-12/06/2015 . 15 4.7 Pollux SW Ridge (PD) 17-18/6/2015) . 17 4.8 Dom, Normal Route (PD) 21/06/2015 . 18 4.9 Breithorn East & Central Summits (PD) 22/06/2015 . 18 4.10 Triftjgrat (D-) 25/05/2015 . 19 5 Journal Summary 21 5.1 May ......................................