C8 MAINLANDER Saturday, May 12, 2012 THE PRESS, Christchurch

Dairy progress: A new milk powder factory rises from lush pasture above the near Clydevale. Taking stock of The crossing: Ferry master Peter Dickson completes another Clutha crossing on a punt built in 1896. Photos: MIKE CREAN/FAIRFAX NZ

rivalry – first it linked them, then course was once a street with two it merged them. rows of houses. Some of the houses Closure of small schools in the were taken by farm workers but wider area, including Clydevale, most were for staff of the linen flax helped bring about the merger. factory. Flax was processed here he mighty Clutha serving farms and gold claims on The schools amalgamated at until World War II, when the River ‘‘just keeps Mike the Tuapeka River up to World Greenfield, to form Clutha Valley factory burned down. It left a large rollin’ along’’. And War II. District High School, in the 1930s. concrete shell, which the transport the last punt of its Crean The 1896 punt operates, The secondary department closed firm now uses to store bulk kind in the southern courtesy of the Clutha District 30 years later. Now buses take superphosphate. hemisphere just Council, in ‘‘peak-traffic’’ hours, secondary pupils to South About 100 people live in the Tkeeps plying the roiling waters, Heartland between 3pm and 5pm. But traffic High School, in Balclutha. township that straddles the Clutha where the Tuapeka River spills is sparse even then. Mine is the The day I arrive, five women River. It is the focal point for many into the Clutha. only car I see, Dickson the only golfers are having a round before more who live on surrounding Time seems to have stood still the punt. He talks of floods and of other person. sharing afternoon tea to farewell farms. Its community hall, rugby since I was last at Tuapeka Mouth, rocks being exposed by reduced Fifty punts once operated on one of their number, June Tunnah. club grounds and bowling green five years ago. Ferry master Peter flows, while pulleys, wire-ropes the Clutha. Steamboats chugged She is the last of the five to retire join the golf course as attractions. Dickson still stamps down to the and the river current, in some upriver with stores for farms and from here to Balclutha. The others ‘‘Going to town’’ means a riverbank for another crossing, as mysterious marvel of physics, settlements. Dickson was part of a still come back to play golf, but she 20-minute drive to Balclutha, half he has been doing since 1994. propel us to the far bank. He group that tried unsuccessfully to will join a club near her new an hour to Gore, an hour to Mission, his black labrador, has brings the craft to a gentle stop raise and restore a paddle steamer home. Last round: Golfing friends at Clydevale farewell June Tunnah (centre, front). Invercargill, slightly more to got older and put on weight. ‘‘right on the spot’’. I thank him for that sank nearby. Tunnah says the biggest change Dunedin. Dickson will be 80 in three years. the ride (which is free) and The township of Clydevale in the district during her 44 years completion just outside the garages are still in business. They Leaving the golf clubhouse, I He reckons he may retire then. promise to return with a bottle of remains, 10km below Tuapeka here has been the conversion from township. The factory rises from are boosted by the amount of see sheep grazing the fairways. What will become of the punt? Johnnie Walker for his 80th. Mouth. Clydevale is like two sheep farming to dairying. lush, green pasture, an indication machinery required for dairying, Their presence ensures there is no Can anyone replace the ferry ‘‘I’m partial to Johnnie towns, joined by a narrow bridge ‘‘It used to be all sheep,’’ she that irrigation has come even to she says. The Post Office on the shortage of natural hazards on the master who has guided it so Walker,’’ he says. over the Clutha. Once the says. Most farmers were forced by this naturally damp area. south bank has gone but a course. Shoe scrapers at the faithfully, for so long, across the Dickson has lived all his life at settlement on the north bank was low meat and wool prices since the When Tunnah came to veterinary clinic remains. A hotel clubhouse door must get a lot of Clutha? Tuapeka Mouth, 30 kilometres called Greenfield. It considered 1980s to convert. Clydevale, two grocery shops and a trucking company continue use, I assume. Electric wires Dickson directs me as I drive upriver from Balclutha. He itself separate from the southbank A sign of the change is a new traded, one on each side of the business on the north side. around the greens mean the gingerly down the ramp and onto remembers a thriving settlement, town. The bridge ended their milk powder factory nearing river. They have gone but two Tunnah says part of the golf putting, at least, is unobstructed.