Behind the Scenes
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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 279 Behind the Scenes SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy. OUR READERS Steve Fallon A warm najlepša hvala to Petra Stušek and Many thanks to the travellers who used the staff at the Ljubljana Tourist Board as well as last edition and wrote to us with helpful Tine Murn at the Slovenian Tourist Board in hints, useful advice and interesting anec- London. Dušan Brejc of the Wine Association of dotes: Ian Andrews, Sarah Anthony, Rinse Slovenia helped with the right vintages (again), Balk, Izabela Bogacz, Claire Connorton, Alan Iva Gruden of Ljubljananjam was indispensable Curtis, Nick Gardner, Raquel Gómez, David with all things culinary, and Dragan Barbutovski Hinchliffe, Carlo Iossa, Mark McConnell, John of CurioCity told me which way the wind was Moratelli, Maciej Nowak, Teresa Oldham blowing. I am again eternally grateful to Slo- venian Railways’ Marino Fakin and both Vojko Anzeljc and Tone Plankar at the Ljubljana bus AUTHOR THANKS station for transport information. As always, Carolyn Bain my efforts here are dedicated to my partner, Michael Rothschild. Many thanks to Anna Tyler for a great gig, and bouquets to my coauthor Steve Fallon for gen- erously sharing local expertise and contacts. ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Hvala lepa to a fine cast of locals (and fellow travellers) for answering my questions, regaling Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, me with stories and making this job such a re- Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated warding (and scenic) one, including Tine Murn, World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Zoran Sordjan, Domen & Barbara, Grega, Matic Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System & Katja, Ana & Valter, Matej, Matej, Simon & Sciences, 11, 163344. Marina, Luka, Rok, Mitja, Ivana, Jaka, Bogdan, Cover photograph: Tartinijev Trg, Piran; Alan Mario and Sergeja, and so many more. Copson/AWL © 280 BEHIND THE SCENES THIS BOOK Destination Editor Anna Tyler Cover Researcher Product Editors Grace Dobell, Naomi Parker This 8th edition of Lonely Susan Paterson, Kathryn Thanks to Anita Banh, Kate Planet’s Slovenia guidebook Rowan Chapman, Neill Coen, Ryan was researched and written by Senior Cartographer Evans, Andi Jones, Karyn Carolyn Bain and Steve Fallon. Anthony Phelan Noble, Kirsten Rawlings, Alison The previous edition was Ridgway, Diana Saengkham, Book Designer Mazzy Prinsep written by Mark Baker, Paul Dianne Schallmeiner, Ellie Assisting Editors Jodie Mar- Clammer and Steve Fallon. Simpson, Lauren Wellicome, tire, Rosie Nicholson, Monique This guidebook was produced Dora Whitaker Perrin, Saralinda Turner by the following: Assisting Cartographers Gabe Lindquist, Diana von Holdt ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 281 Index A B Bovec 111-14 Strmol Manor 200 accommodation 18, 256-7, ballooning 28, 50, 85 brandy 18, 254 Totto Palace 141 see also individual Base 20 166 Brejc, Dušan 253 Žužemberk Castle 163 locations Basilica of the Patroness Brežice 173-6, 174 cathedrals, see churches & vineyard cottages 177 Mary 206 bridges cathedrals mountain huts 27 bathrooms 263 Capuchin Bridge 75 caves activities 18, 24-8, see bears 135 Cobblers’ Bridge 41 Kostanjevica Cave 172 also adventure sports, beekeeping 81 Dragon Bridge 45 Križna Cave 134-5 individual activities beer 18, 253-4 Triple Bridge 37 Pekel Jama 194 escape games 54 Bela Krajina 177-83 Trnovo Bridge 49 Planina Cave 130 adventure sports bird-watching 27 budget 15 Postojna Cave 11, 129- Bled 85 Bizeljsko-Sremič Wine business hours 15, 262 30, 11 Bohinj 94-5 District 176-7 bus travel 266-7, 268 Škocjan Caves 12, Bovec 112 Bled 83-93, 86, 88 136-7, 12 Kobarid 114 accommodation 89-91 caving 27 Soča Valley 112 activities 85-8 C Celje 188-94, 190 air travel 265-6 canoeing drinking 92-3 accommodation 191-2 Ajdovščina 120 Lake Bohinj 95 events 89 activities 191 Alpe-Adria-Trail 115 Otočec Ob Krki 170 festivals 89 drinking 192-3 angling, see fishing canyoning 26-7, 95 food 91-2 entertainment 192-3 animals Bovec 112 history 84 food 192 bears 135 Soča River 112 information 92-3 sights 189-91 bees 81 car travel 268-70 nightlife 92-3 tourist information 193 horses 138 Krka River 163 orientation 92 transport 193-4 olms 131 Castle Hill 36-7 sights 84-5 cell phones 14, 263 Aquileia 230 castles & palaces 16 tours 88 Central Pohorje Region Arboretum Volčji Potok 73 Belgramoni-Tacco Palace travel to/from 93, 100 213-15 architects 44, see also 141 travel within 93 Cerknica 133-4 Plečnik, Jože Besenghi degli Ughi boat travel 267 Cerkno 124-6 architecture 44, 244-5 Palace 144 boating children, travel with 29-30 museums 50 Bled Castle 84 Lake Bled 85, 87 churches & cathedrals 16 Secessionist 36, 37, 40 Bogenšperk Castle 162 Lake Bohinj 95-6 Cathedral of St George area codes 15, 263 Dobrovo Castle 119 149 Ljubljana 50 arts 242-7 Gewerkenegg Castle 122 Cathedral of St Nicholas Bogenšperk Castle 162 architecture 244-5 Kluže Fortress 111 (Ljubljana) 42 Bohinj 93-100, film 226, 246-7 95 Kromberk Castle 117 Cathedral of St Nicholas accommodation 97-8 literature 226, 242-3 Ljubljana Castle 36-7 (Novo Mesto) 166 activities 94-7 music 243-4, 245 Loka Castle & Museum Cathedral of the Assump- festivals & events 97 74-5 tion (Koper) 141 painting 245-6 food 97-8 Mokrice Castle 176 Chapel of St George 37 pottery 222 information 99-100 Old Castle Celje 189 Church of St John the sculpture 153-4, 245-6 orientation 96 Otočec Castle 169 Baptist 93-4 ATMs 261 sights 93-4 Podsreda Castle 197 Church of St Mary of travel to/from 100 Predjama Castle 12, 132, Haliaetum 144 travel within 100 12, 17 Church of the Map Pages Annunciation 75-7 000 Bohinjska Bistrica 96, 98 Ptuj Castle 201, 203 Church of the Photo Pages 000 Snežnik Castle 135 Bourbon, House of 117 Assumption 85 282 churches & cathedrals drinks 18, 250-4 gondola rides 87 internet resources 15 continued driving see car travel gorges iron forging 83 Church of the Assump- Rakov Škocjan 134 itineraries 21-3, 21, 22, 23 tion of Mary 160 Tolmin Gorges 117 E Izola 144-7, 145 Church of the Holy Vintgar Gorge 90 Trinity 143 Eastern Slovenia 32, 184- 224, 186-7 Goriška Brda 119-20 INDEX Evangelical Church 220-1 Green Karst 133-5 J Franciscan Church of the highlights 186-7 Jakac, Božidar 167, 171-2 groats 250 Annunciation 37 travel seasons 184 Johnson Debeljak, Erica Maribor Cathedral 207 economy 226 239 C- Parish Church of St Eko Muzej 193 Joseph II 232 K H James 75 electricity 258 Habsburgs 231 Julian Alps 31, 71-108, 72, Russian Chapel 107 embassies 258 hayracks 200 102-3 Serbian Orthodox emergencies 15 health 259-60 highlights 72 Church 45 events, see festivals & hiking 17, 24-5, see travel seasons 71 Ursuline Church of the events also walking Jurjevanje 181 Holy Trinity 43 exchange rates 15 Alpe-Adria-Trail 115 climate 14, 19, 20, see Bled 87-8 also individual regions K Bovec 111 climate change 265 F Kamnik 73-4 Central Pohorje Region festivals & events 19-20 accommodation 127 coastal Slovenia 32, 214 139-56, arts 89 climate 127 128 Črnomelj 181 consulates 258 biathlons 89 food 127 Dolenjske Toplice 164-5 Cows’ Ball 20, 97 chocolate 80 highlights 128 festivals 97 credit cards 261-2 Cows’ Ball 97 travel seasons 127 Green Karst 134 film 89 wineries 137 Črnomelj 180-2, 181 Kamniška Bistrica 73 food 80, 251 kayaking 26-7 cruises 150-1, 154 Kranjska Gora 103 hiking 97 Bovec 111-12 culture 239-41 Krvavec 78 Jurjevanje 181 Krka Valley 163 Slovenian heritage 51 Lake Bohinj 96 Kurentovanje 205 Novo Mesto 168 currency 14 Maribor Pohorje 212 Laufarija tradition 125 Soča River 111-12 customs regulations 258 Metlika area 179 marathons 52 King Peter I 234 cycling 26, 268 Mt Triglav 105 music 52, 77, 81, 89, Kingdom of Yugoslavia 235 Bovec 111 Rogaška Slatina 198 151, 175 Kobarid 114-16 Central Pohorje Region Škofja Loka Hills 76-7 214 religious 77 Kobarid Historical Trail 116 Slovenj Gradec 217 Dolenjske Toplice area slalom 212-13 Kočevski Rog 166 Soča Valley 111, 115 164-5 summer 79 Kolpa Valley 183 Lake Bohinj 96 wine 52, 179 Triglav National Park 85, 103 Koper 139-56, 140 Maribor Pohorje 212 film 226, 246-7 Walk of Peace 115 accommodation 142 Radenci 224 fishing 27-8 historic towns 16 activities 139-42 Soča Valley 111 Lake Bled 87 history 228-38 drinking 142-4 Triglav National Park Lake Bohinj 96 hitching 270 food 142-4 103-4 floating mills 224 holidays 262-3 history 139 folk music 245 Hom 90 information 143 food 17-18, 248-50, 251, D sights 139-42 259, 17 horse riding 28 Dance of Death 143 travel to/from 143 cable-car restaurants 78 Lake Bohinj 96 disabilities, travellers Lipica 138 travel within 143-4 with 264 forging 83 Novo Mesto 168 Koroška 215-19 diving 27 horses 138 Korte 146