Contents January 4 - 17 2013 Next issue out on January 18, 2013

Cover story Walk on water The is polluted, yes, but we’re not going to cry you a river. Instead, we navigate you to the many offbeat sights along ’s waterfront. These include forgotten tombs, peace-

ful shrines, assorted ghats, bird almiki sanctuaries and an elephant b camp. Just go with the flow. manit O mere majhi Boatmen at Qudsia Ghat

Feature Food & Drink Dance Nightlife 16 Public act 51 Masterchef cookbook 81 Events 101 Hilight Tribe Parallel Cities coaxes per- Reader’s digest Jamie’s Courses New bars Halfway House, formance art out of public 15 Minute Meals, The Kitchen Az Bar spaces. Diaries II, Pastry, Three DJ listings Good Things Clubs, bars and lounges Reviews Espresso Grill, Blue 20 Bright constellations Door Café Film We list Ustad Zakir Hussain’s Goli Vadapav 82 Five Pankaj Kapur best collaborations before Appetisers performances Theatre his concert this fortnight. Hot tables Reviews Hansa, Jack Reacher, The Impossible, 110 Bharat Rang 22 Rough magic Other film screenings Mahotsav Footsbarn Travelling Theatre DVD reviews The What’s on where stages Indian Tempest at Around Town Amazing Spider-Man, Bharat Rang Mahostav. 64 Lohri celebrations Total Recall Events 24 Dogg fight Quote of the Indian rappers and reggae artists talk about Snoop Art Kids Dogg’s new avatar as Snoop 68 Nemai Ghosh: Satyajit 93 Toy libraries fortnight Lion prior to his performance. Things to do Ray and Beyond Three questions with... “When you Rohit Chawla Live preview Pondicherry have a country Regulars Review Moving Korea Gay & Lesbian 8 Fortnightly agenda Exhibitions 95 Jeff Roy’s film project in denial of its 10 Inbox Events culture, then you 12 Dilli Gate have a cultural 114 After words Books Music 78 Reviews The Mirror of lobotomy.” Wonders and other tales, 97 Mekaal Hasan Band Sweet Tooth, Mr Majestic: Live previews Sameehan See page 98 Lifestyle The Tout of Bengaluru, How Kashalkar 43 Travel bags It Happened, Fairy Tales from Book reviews Mohammmed On The Cover Label we love Bhane the Brothers Grimm Rafi – My Abba – A Memoir Photograph by Manit Balmiki Check out Poetry & readings Concerts 6 www.timeoutdelhi.net January 4 – 17 2013

Contents 001.indd 6 12/28/2012 9:16:48 PM Over troubled water Cities usually consider a river to be a blessing, but us Dilliwalas tend to turn our backs to ours. We hold our breath while driving across the Yamuna, thoughtlessly discharge our waste into it, pour concrete over its banks and, during the occasional festival, dump statues, diyas and other religious paraphernalia into its choked waters. This fortnight, we invite you to walk to the water rather than shun it, with a series of guided strolls over and around five of the city’s road bridges, from Wazirabad to Okhla. Delhi does its best to kill the Yamuna, but take a closer look – our riverbanks are surprisingly alive. Photography by Manit Balmiki. January 4 – 17 2013 www.timeoutdelhi.net 29

CoverStory 002.indd 29 12/28/2012 5:07:41 PM Wazirabad Bridge Wrestlers and rumours everal interesting landmarks dot the said. “In the mud arena – which is more popu- river between the ISBT-Shastri Park lar in rural areas – we get paid.” SBridge at Kashmere Gate and the new After a brief stop at nearby Majnu Ka Tilla “Signature Bridge” coming up near the Wazira- (hot, sweet gurudwara halwa on a cold morn- bad Bridge. However, it’s tough to actually walk ing an admitted draw), we headed to New Aru- this route because of all the construction and na Nagar, the Tibetan refugee colony famous blocked access to the water, so we’d recom- for its momos, chang, and for being a one-stop mend travelling between points by auto or taxi shop for everything under the sun from the (parking isn’t much fun either). roof of the world. Where else could you find A couple minutes’ drive from the Civil Lines the latest season of Korean TV comedy My Metro Station, we began our day at Chandgi Princess, a traditional chuba and a Dalai Lama Ram Akhara, one of the NCR’s premier wres- T-shirt, all on the same corner? We skipped tling schools. Ram was a legend of Indian local fave Tibetan Dhaba (“Tee Dee”) to try out wrestling – a gold medallist at the 1970 Asian the recently opened New Hot Yak Restaurant. Games, a Padma Shri and Arjuna awardee, It wasn’t as hot as we hoped, though perhaps and one of the first supporters of wom- we weren’t adventurous enough with our en’s wrestling in . Fittingly, the E Class orders (the menu lists such exotica akhara he founded has provided as black fungus and sautéed large According to the training to several top wrestlers Central Pollution intestines). of both sexes since its incep- Control Board, Yamuna Even if you wanted to, it’s impos- tion in 1975. water is “Class E”, which sible to ignore the fact that this is After Ram’s death in 2010, means that it’s unfit even a colony established by a people for animal bathing. two of his children, wrestlers The water is fit only whose presence here has tragic Jagdish and Sonika Kaliraman, for industrial overtones. In the square in front of took over the ropes. We ran into cooling. the Tantric Buddhist Cultural Society Sonika, who took us around the Office, there’s a small, candle-lit display gymnasium with a steam room, the indoor that says, chillingly: “92 self-immolations stadium for bouts and practice, and the tradi- this year”. tional mud pit outside. Though morning prac- You can access the river from the back of tice was over (it begins at 6am, whatever the the Tibetan colony, but there’s not much to see season), she asked a few of the pahalwans (the pontoon bridge here is only linked when to demonstrate their warm-up routines. One the water level is high). shimmied up a 12-foot rope, another dragged So we set off towards the Wazirabad Bridge a plough-like wooden slab called a kudhal to find thetomb of Shah Alam, a 14th-century across the akhara’s dry, fine mud. Though fight saint who lived during the reign of Feroze practice has mostly shifted indoors in recent Shah Tughlaq. Inside a small, gated complex years, they haven’t completely abandoned the scattered with elderly gentlemen and school old-style outdoor bouts. “In mat competitions, kids was the tomb: a domed structure with pil- we get medals and recognition,” Kaliraman lars – not grandiose, but well maintained. The le a iki (3)iki c s lm a t b t ni a p not tonot p a

m Alam belle Shah Alam’s tomb m

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CoverStory 002.indd 30 12/28/2012 5:09:19 PM Pit stop A wrestler training at Chandgi Ram Akhara

Blowin’ in the wind The riverside park at New Aruna Nagar, Majnu Ka Tilla

complex has been closed to the public for two sive club with a guard at its grilled gates. The years now, amid rumours that it housed both friendly staff gave us a guided tour. Of particular a mosque and a temple. (A representative interest was a magnificent man-made lake cov- from the ASI told us that though this theory ered with birds. It started out as a cricket field, may be credible, the compound was closed after which water was pumped in, fish imported down due to it being frequented by “unlawful and artificial islands built. Soon, migratory birds elements”.) Nonetheless, we were shown like red-crested pochards, great cormorants around by the gatekeeper and Raja Babu, a and northern shovellers started coming in from local conspiracy theorist who tried to convince Europe, China and Siberia. Drop by if you like us that there was never any tomb here at all; birds, butterflies or botany, and carry a pair of that the government had made the story up in binoculars for a glimpse of what the Yamuna the interests of communal harmony. ecosystem could be like if cared for properly. Across the road from Shah Alam’s tomb is Anugya Chitransh and Uday Bhatia Sur Ghat. There’s a government-maintained swimming pool on its banks, where they sup- posedly change the water every three days. Where to go It didn’t look especially fresh, but that didn’t Chandgi Ram Akhara Dr KB Hedgewar Marg, stop a group of kids from splashing about – at Civil Lines. m Civil Lines. least it was cleaner that the river. From here, Majnu Ka Tilla Outer Ring Road, opposite GT a

h you do get a nice view of the Signature Bridge Road intersection. n i

s coming up. The much-delayed project, slated

a Shah Alam’s Tomb Mangal Pandey Marg,

by to open late this year, will connect Outer Ring opposite Sur Ghat, Wazirabad. s n

io Road with the beautifully named Khajoori Sur Ghat Mangal Pandey Marg,Wazirabad. Khas on the eastern side. Yamuna Biodiversity Park Jharoda Majra, near trat From here, it’s a worthwhile drive to the Yamu- Jagatpur, Wazirabad (2761-6569). Mon-Sat illus na Biodiversity Park, which looks like an exclu- 9am-5pm. January 4 – 17 2013 www.timeoutdelhi.net 31

CoverStory 002.indd 31 12/28/2012 5:09:53 PM hat movie but Deewar could be play- ing to a rapt matinee audience on an Weight-inch TV inside a nondescript Old Yamuna Bridge tea shop by the river? Angry young Amitabh held the attention of the dozen or so men who had parked their rickshaws and settled down Girders and ghats to while away a lazy afternoon hour, courtesy a DTH satellite on a lone stone slab outside. The tea shop is under the archway bridge that leads up to the old man on the river – the Iron Bridge or Lohe Ka Pul. Indian Railways’ Bridge No 249, the Yamuna Bridge was the first rail link from Delhi to Kolkata. Built in 1866, it cost the East India Company 11 crore rupees, and was clearly constructed to last many lifetimes. Additions were made in 1913, including anoth- er railway line and two roads at a lower level. The bridge hasn’t changed much since and continues to be the prime railway link to any- thing east of Delhi, as well as a routine road for commuters from Shastri Park, Kailash Nagar and Subhash Mohalla. The tea stall was a good rest stop after our visit to the nearby electric crematorium (see box, p34). After a hot cup, we made our way past Salimgarh Fort, access to which is currently restricted and requires prior permis- sion from the ASI office at the (which connects to Salimgarh). Built in 1546 on an island, the fort was used for centuries as a prison by both the Mughals and the British; the CISF men positioned along its watchtowers make it an imposing structure still. From here, it’s a five-minute drive to Yamuna Bazaar, a congested area that is a haven for readily available, cheap narcotics. We didn’t linger long, but did visit Neeli Chhatri Mandir, built on the remains of a structure made by the , or by Humayun, depending on who you ask. Located just off the Yamuna Bazaar main road, the mandir may not have the gran- deur it lays claim to, but is a popular stop for many heading towards Nigambodh Ghat. This ghat is a round-the-clock enterprise with more than 101 traditional cremation sites and an electric furnace. Inside the ghat, which is one of the few direct access points to Iron Bridge or Lohe Ka Pul – the river, the atmosphere is tranquil rather than morbid. e l a

Old monk At

p Margadwale Mandir ma sc tonot

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CoverStory 002.indd 32 12/28/2012 5:11:26 PM 4) ( i ik alm b t i man

Udder side Jamuna Khaddar on the eastern shore; (l) sunset over the Iron Bridge

We headed next to the Ladakh Buddhist garden said to be a picnic spot for Emperor ally dig around for at least three to four hours Vihara, opposite ISBT, for lunch. The complex Ahmed Shah in the mid-18th century. Along before coming ashore,” she said. On a winter houses a Buddhist temple, library and read- the sandy shore of the ghat are small puja afternoon, when the stench of the river is not ing centre, built under the aegis of Jawaharlal pandals and tea stalls. We had to walk through too overbearing, a boat ride from the ghat is Nehru in 1963. The Tibetan refugee commu- rows of parked trucks to reach the bank, where an exciting, unusual thing to do in the city. The nity here owns small shops and restaurants. we saw men walking in the sewage-laden river boatmen even offer a stopover at islets, where Armed with a couple of cheap scarves, we in circles, their hands behind their heads. We a few decades ago watermelons were culti- headed down to Qudsia Ghat, known for its asked Usha Sharma, the owner of a flower vated during the summer. affordable boat rides. shop, what they were doing and she enlight- From here, we stopped at Margadwale The ghat is across the Ring Road from ISBT ened us: “They are digging for coins or other Mandir, within a traffic island at Kashmere and Civil Lines’ Qudsia Bagh – once a royal precious metal thrown off the bridge. They usu- Gate. While it’s basically like any other temple,

the pay was not enough. I still try to do my bit Odd job though, and whenever required serve as a Voluntary lifeguard voluntary lifeguard. Uma Shankar Sharma has lived by the How many people have you saved? Yamuna his whole life. His father, Shankar I don’t know the exact figure, but between Sharma, was the priest at one of the small us, we must have saved at least 200 to 250 riverside temples at Qudsia Ghat, and Uma people from drowning in the river. Many and his brother Ravi Shankar were good people who come to distribute ashes or swimmers. They used to work for the Munici- offer their prayers tend to take a wrong step. pal Corporation of Delhi, but Uma is now a When the river is full, it can just pull you in; voluntary lifeguard (his brother is a lifeguard most of the people we rescued were during at a city pool). In between offering boat rides these times. There have been a few we could (his main source of income), the 43-year-old not bring back to shore in time though. told Sibi Arasu about life on the river. How has the river changed from how you Where did you come to Delhi from? knew it as a child? We’ve lived by the river for generations now When we were children, the river was never – I remember my father telling me our family so dirty. It was only after 1988 or so that so came here in 1920 or so, but I’m not sure much sewage and industrial waste started where from. being dumped into it, making it so unclean. We grew up by this same ghat and now my And how long have you been a lifeguard? wife and children live here too. Nobody used As far as lifeguarding goes, it’s something to bother us during our father’s day, since he that both my brother and I have always done. was a priest, but now the Municipal officials We joined the MCD as temporary employees want all of us to move out. And I do not know in 1985 and worked for them until a few where to go or what else to do, since all that I Life saver Uma Shankar Sharma years ago. Both of us quit our jobs because know is the river.

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CoverStory 002.indd 33 12/28/2012 8:04:29 PM Ashes to ashes Electric crematorium Any space in the city with a parking lot that can hold more than a thousand cars was clearly built with the expectation of receiving a large number of visitors. The giant lot at the Bela Road electric crematorium is deceptive though, because once you enter the main premises, besides a few gardeners and work- ers, the enormous space seems to be inhab- ited only by ghosts of the past. “When it was built in 1965, this cremato- rium was the biggest in the city,” supervisor Suresh Kumar told us. “All of the important people in the city came here whenever someone passed away in their family. But in (2)

the last decade or so, despite huge construc- i k tions such as the prayer hall and plans for additional cremation units, the place has just Electric slide Suresh Kumar rotted away and now all of this property is just at the moribund crematorium lying waste, put to no good use.” manitbalmi The prayer hall, a massive ruin of an audito- outside the crematorium proclaims, are used began breaking down and nobody ever came rium built in the late 1990s, can seat more than only for infant cremations. to fix it again,” he said. Now the crematorium 5,000 people. Kumar said the cost of construc- Kumar said the place fell out of is just another public institution dying a slow, tion was more than nine crore rupees. The nine favour when the MCD converted electric pointless death. employees here take care of the grounds and crematoriums to CNG units. “Once the Electric crematorium Bela Road, near Vijay two functional mini-units. These, as the board conversion happened, many of the units Ghat, off Geeta Colony flyover.

Rajiv Sharma, who runs a kachodi shop inside they span less than a kilometre, took us a since this is the only space where we can at the premises, told us an intriguing story. “The good 20 minutes to cross. On the other side, least stay for a while in this city.” temple was constructed when the riverbank we walked down to the fields below. In this The bridge is a beautiful sight from here, was where the ISBT is situated,” he said. “Like “Jamuna Khadar”, more than 300 people live especially at sundown. Crossing back, we the Nigambodh Ghat, there was another ghat in a small village, which also has a gaushala stopped to admire the view from the Golden here and when the Hanuman Mandir was con- (cow shelter). Resident Rahul Gupta, who Jubilee Park (reflecting on the rather unpleas- structed inside it, it got the name ‘Margadwale migrated here from Rajasthan, ant fact that the park was carved out of land Mandir’, which has stuck on for centuries told us that they cultivate originally occupied by since.” The temple attracts large crowds and pulses, root vegetables Drain pain encroachments, whose residents were long lines during lunch hours, when free food and flowers such as The 18 untreated shifted out to the city’s outskirts). is offered to the poor. marigold. When the river drains that flow into the Against the pink evening sky, head- Yamuna within the NCR Having had our fill of ghats and temples, we floods, the community are largely responsible for lights illuminated the Iron Bridge, headed to the actual Iron Bridge itself, reach- moves up to the road- its state. The Shahdara drain under which glowed small fires ing it around 5pm – just in time for peak rush side into tents that the and the Najafgarh and its made by homeless people. For a hour. The bridge is a kind of portal into the MCD sets up during the supplementary drains account moment, we forgot the cesspool for 72 per cent of sewage Victorian industrial age, with the rumbling of flooding season, and discharge into the river. before us and imagined what the trains above and slow moving traffic below. then returns after the (Central Pollution Yamuna must have been when the The remains of the river and the habitations water drains out and start Control Board) Iron Bridge came up: a gently flowing and constructions along the bank can be seen all over. Gupta elaborated, river and the lifeline of the soon-to-be through its giant iron girders, which, though “There is no other way really for us, capital of a new empire. Sibi Arasu Where to go Ladakh Buddhist Vihara Outer Ring Road, opposite ISBT, Kashmere Gate. m Kashmere Gate. Margadwale Mandir Outer Ring Road, near ISBT. m Kashmere Gate. Temple daily 5-8am, 4-7pm. Nigambodh Ghat Ring Road, near Yamuna Bazaar (2386-2948). m Kashmere Gate. Daily 24 hours. Neeli Chhatri Mandir 2067 Yamuna Bazar, off Outer Ring Road (78389-61234). m Kashmere Gate. Temple daily 5am-1pm, 3-10pm. Qudsia Ghat Behind Ladakh Buddhist Vihara. m Kashmere Gate. Daily 8am-7pm. `100 for 30 min-1 hour boat ride. Salimgarh Fort Access from the Red Fort River clipper Keeping trim at Qudsia Ghat Complex. Call ASI (2301-2836) for prior permission. 34 www.timeoutdelhi.net January 4 – 17 2013

CoverStory 002.indd 34 12/28/2012 5:14:14 PM 2) ( g n la i a t

i it ad

Trunk call The Elephant Camp Run on near ITO; (l) Chhath Puja Ghat

the banks for six generations. He himself was once a According to recent estimates, about `12,000 mahout at nearby Appu Ghar (where the Pra­ ITO Bridge crore has been spent on gati Maidan Metro station now stands), taking cleaning the Yamuna visitors on elephant rides. Now he has a couple over the last 18 years. of elephants, camels and hor­ses that he rents out. He came out in defence against “perse­ Dawn to tusk cution” by wildlife officials and Gandhi. “She he Lok Nayak Setu, popularly known as wary of talking to people in case of rousing comes from a well-to-do family. They have their the ITO Bridge, is an unlikely place to animal activist Maneka Gandhi’s ire. Their own ways,” he said. “That’s not to say we don’t Tcatch a glimpse of the India that foreign reticence is understandable also in light of the look after the elephants properly. They are like tourists crave. Yet the Yamuna bank nearby is terrible accident last June, when a 40-year-old family. In fact, I look after them better that my one of the last refuges of elephants in Delhi, female elephant was killed by a speeding truck own blood.” The elephants make their owners outside of the Zoo. While we had seen the near the Noida-Delhi border. The elephant had upwards of `10,000 on every trip, but their occasional pachyderm bathing in the water been hired the previous day for a wedding. To upkeep is also expensive. Each animal con­ below from the Blue Line Metro, which runs transport the animals from one state to anoth­ sumes two to three quintals of food daily and close by, one morning we made an effort er, the owner has to obtain a No Objection Cer­ also has to be fitted with a microchip behind to seek them out. From the red light before tificate from the divisional forest officer, then its ear, to allow wildlife officials to track and the bridge, we walked towards the river until permission from a chief wildlife warden on the inspect it every six months or so. a small road appeared to the right, leading basis of this NoC. The permission is granted There is now a law preventing individuals to the Chhath Puja Ghat, where every year, after it is ascertained that the elephant is’nt from owning elephants and though people like around October or November, devotees come subjected to cruelty, is accorded proper safety, Khan manage these animals, they are also to worship Surya, the sun god. The steps were given food and other facilities. In this case, the considered government property and can’t deserted, save for a sleeping dog. Underneath unfortunate animal was transported illegally. be bought or sold. Soon enough in Delhi, it will a peepal tree, Suresh Ram Das was making And apparently, most owners don’t bother with likely only be possible to catch a sight of the preparations for his morning puja at the make­ tedious permits when the animals are hired. magnificent beasts inside zoos. It’s probably shift temple dedicated to Shiva, Kali, Bajrang Though the mahouts did not speak to us, better that way. Kingshuk Niyogy Bali, a terrifying Kaal Bhairav and other assor­ across the river we soon found one chatty ted gods and goddesses. owner, Iqbal Khan, sitting at his makeshift Where to go Before getting back to the ITO Bridge, we office, which also doubles as a tea stall and had to take a makeshift underpass littered biryani counter. In his mid-50s, Khan comes Iqbal Khan Hathiwale JJ Camp Thokar, NH-8, with garbage, discarded flowers and other puja from a family that has handled elephants near Yamuna Bridge (93126-81806). paraphernalia, to come to the middle of the road. After facing the ordeal of crossing amidst speeding traffic, we were directed to the Elephant Camp. Next to the banks, we found three elephants (we were told that it was home to five more) chained to the ground, chomp­ ing away lazily on sugarcane and other leafy vegetation. The elephants usually set out after 10am to temples or gurudwaras where they’ve been beckoned. They return in the late after­

noon and take a second bath – except in the e al winter when they may catch a cold. Nowadays, c s to they are also fed peepal leaves and shoots, ot n

which are supposed to keep their bodies warm. p

The band of mahouts hanging about was ma January 4 – 17 2013 www.timeoutdelhi.net 35

CoverStory 002.indd 35 12/28/2012 5:17:03 PM miki(5) al b

it n a m

Field day Near the eastern end of the Nizamuddin Bridge Nizamuddin Bridge Chants and plants ivers are the starting points of history. oblivious to the river beneath them. The Civilizations grow around them. Traders only attention-grabbing sight is the modern Rand conquerors use them as pathways architecture of the CWG Village, juxtaposed to new lands. And despite the Yamuna’s dying against Swaminarayan Akshardham, a more state, it still inspires new, shining beacons of grandiose display of religion than the Stupa. development to bloom around it. Our starting The main 43-metre high structure, smaller point, the Millennium Park, temples, films, musical fountains and boat completed in 2004, is a stone’s throw from rides make up a vast 90-acre complex, and the river bank. An erstwhile landfill, it was it’s as much a tourist attraction and spectacle rehabilitated into gently sloping gardens with of religious wealth as it is a place of worship. manicured lawns, odd sculptural art and large Between the two grand religious icons though, bushes that shield lovers looking for some under the Nizamuddin Bridge approach, is the quiet time. Walking through, we glimpsed story of a very different India. Humayun’s Tomb ahead of us, and the soon- Here, people lead a hand-to-mouth exist- to-be-restored Neela Gumbad, which was ence on small plots of land that house farms originally set on an island in the river. On the and makeshift nurseries, which are destroyed right, the Vishwa Shanti Stupa was built in annually by the rising water level. Walking the 2007 under the auspices of Nichidatsu Fujii, a meandering path under the bridge, we met Japanese Buddhist monk, and inaugurated by Ram Naresh Verma, the owner of one such the Dalai Lama as a symbol of peace and reli- nursery plagued by issues of rent and floods. gious understanding. Its clear white surfaces “We rent the land for the nursery from the Guj- and golden Buddha reliefs gleam in the sun, jars on an annual basis,” he said. “However, and the Stupa is quiet, despite the heavily traf- when there are floods [the last in 2010], we ficked roads just a step away. have to incur losses for the plants, plus find ot to scaleto ot n Further ahead, cars cross the Nizamuddin temporary accommodation and rebuild the

map Bridge (the city’s most heavily trafficked), nursery again.” The river’s rising acidity levels

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CoverStory 002.indd 36 12/28/2012 5:18:00 PM Caption here: Caption here Caption Hay there The old approach to the Pontoon Bridge Green thumb Mohan Dutt Sharma at his nursery Have a ballhere Indraprastha Caption here Millenium Caption herePark Cast a net Yamuna resources online Toxics Link An environmental Yamuna Gently Weeps From organisation with an ongoing Ruzbeh N Barucha’s book on engagement with water pollu- the pre-Commonwealth Games tion. www.toxicslink.org Yamuna Pushta demolitions. We for Yamuna A Swechha www.yamunagentlyweeps.com initiative that organises Yamuna Jiye Abhiyaan A civil several activities on and for society consortium dedicated the river, including a “Yamunot- to restoring the river ecosystem. sav”. Last year, the nonprofit www.yamunajiyeabhiyaan.blog organised a cyclothon. spot.in www.swechha.in Yamuna Waterkeeper Part of Yamuna – Elbe A 2011 public a global alliance committed art project about the Yamuna (in to reclaim drinkable, fishable Delhi) and the Elbe in Hamburg. waters. www.yamunawater Peace out Vishwa Shanti Stupa www.yamuna-elbe.de keeper.org

also make the water unfit for personal use. Sharma, an ex-Government servant-turned-nurs- Further ahead, Ratan Singh Rana, the ery owner (Sharma Nursery) engaged us in con- Where to go owner of Yamuna Greenways nursery and versation. “I remember the old Pontoon Bridge, Greenways Nursery Yamuna Bank, Noida an ex-horticulturist, had his own set of woes: he told us. “It was dismantled 25 years ago, and Mod (99996-84576). m Akshardham. Daily stray dogs spoiling the plants and a reliance though there have been talks of reinstating it as 8am-8pm. on groundwater due to the toxicity of the river. a means to ease the traffic on the Indraprastha Millennium Park Sarai Kale “The advantage is that the water level is high DND and Nizamuddin Bridge, Khan, Mahatma Gandhi Marg. Daily and it needn’t be pumped from as low down we don’t know anything Traffic 7am-8.30pm. as the rest of the city, so that’s why we supply yet.” Sharma’s nursery jam Ram Naresh Verma Nursery Yamuna to various other nurseries in the city,” said supplies flowers across ITO and Nizamuddin are Bank, near PWD office, Noida Mod, Rana. Both Verma and Rana also expressed the city, including lotus the most heavily trafficked Pandav Nagar (98181-33512). a fear about the river’s pollution and the plans buds – a relative rar- bridges. According to the m Akshardham. Daily 6am-8pm. to build a Metro bridge here, which may take Delhi Traffic Police, the ity. He too is uncertain average waiting time on Sharma Nursery Pontoon Pul, Yamuna away their land and livelihood. Their relation- about the fate of the river, the Yamuna’s eight road Khadar, Mayur Vihar, Phase-I (93132- ship with the Yamuna is complex; one of trepi- which he duly pointed us bridges is 15 to 30 67814). m Mayur Vihar Phase I. Daily dation and gratitude. towards. There’s little to minutes. 6am-6pm. From here we drifted towards the eastern see here, but a government Swaminarayan Akshardham NH-24, near bank in search of the remains of one of Delhi’s portable toilet and a pile-up of Noida Mor (2201-6688). m Akshardham. floating pontoon bridges. The road towards it refuse from religious offerings on the banks, Tue-Sun 9.30am-6.30pm. Tickets `170. was once a busy street for cars to cross, but making it a hotbed for disease and smells. Vishwa Shanti Stupa Mahatma Gandhi now it contains more nurseries, farmland and a Sadly, no lotuses growing in this muck. Marg (Ring Road), Sarai Kale Khan. Daily makeshift village for local labourers. Mohan Datt Vilasini Roy and Akshita Nahar 7am-8.30pm. January 4 – 17 2013 www.timeoutdelhi.net 37

CoverStory 002.indd 37 12/28/2012 8:03:54 PM Kalindi Kunj A barrage of birds he Okhla Bird Sanctuary is a study the year, there should have been many more were demolished by the government a few in contrasts. On one side is a serene birds here,” he said. With these ominous years ago, as they were encroaching on the Texpanse of water, with birds fluttering concerns in mind, we headed deeper inside. sanctuary. The samadhi, however, survived over it. On the other, high tension wires buzz We’d recommend bringing your own the bulldozers. “Earlier, there used to be a loudly along the boundary. Stepping down to binoculars and bird guide. Patient observation regular stream of visitors who would come for a mud trail adjoining the river, we averted our yielded glimpses of a beautiful white-throated, the kheer ka prasad,” he said. Further ahead, eyes from the noxious-looking foam turquoise feathered kingfisher, a a cremation ground caters to local villages like near the shore and the plastic Bad flock of brown geese leaving little Narabans and Baraula. rubbish, focusing instead on the triangular trails in the water and From this spooky spot, it’s a 20 minute auto- breathtaking view of swimming patch a group of snowy pekin ducks. ride to the Defense Services Sailing Club, Only two per cent (22km) inaugurated in 1961 by the Navy. Childishly brown-headed gulls and flying of the Yamuna’s 1,370km Further ahead, several white white terns. river basin runs through cattle egrets pecked through the excited at the prospect of setting sail on the Close to the juncture where Delhi. Yet the NCR thick growth of water hyacinth. river, we entered through a small iron gate, the Yamuna leaves Delhi contributes to 80 per The way to the two watchtowers, walking a curved path that culminated in a cent of the river’s over a rickety bamboo bridge and garden bordering the Yamuna. On one side, and enters Uttar Pradesh, total pollution. this lake was formed due to the typha fields is less rewarding. There overturned boats slept in a storage area; their construction of the Okhla Barrage are almost no birds on this side, only slumber unfortunately not to be disturbed. One in 1986 (the choked diversion was a few goats and, ensconced at the first of the three mustachioed staffers told us the dredged and cleaned for the first time this watchtower, a group of Chandigarh tourists sailing club has been dysfunctional for over year). Passing the barrage and the Kalindi with alcohol and snacks and anything but a year – and even then it was only admissible Kunj Bridge (currently partially closed for nature on their minds. The view does offer a to members who must be part of the defence repairs), we arrived at the sanctuary, which bird’s eye view of the sanctuary, sandwiched services. Further probing seemed to agitate was officially designated as a preserve by the between Okhla Village and Kalindi Kunj on one him and he exclaimed, “Only God knows why UP government in 1990. The compact four- side and Noida’s domed Rastriya Dalit Prerna it has been shut for so long and we don’t know square-kilometre park hosts 320 species, Sthal on the other. when it will be operational again. You shouldn’t according to a brochure. In the last few years A solitary building here is the samadhi of be asking questions about a defence-related however, there’s been a fall in the numbers local saint Baba Makkolal. “People who had thing.” The smell of French fries lured us to a of winter migratory birds due to pollution some problem would come and pray to him deserted reception area with a board listing and rampant construction. We ran into bird and it would get solved,” samadhi-keeper, Commodores back to 1965. There wasn’t enthusiast, amateur photographer and regular Bhanwar Singh told us. “Earlier I used to run much else, except dogs sprawled in the garden visitor Jayanta Das, who complained about wild and drink heavily. Over a decade ago, I and an exceptionally clean view of the river, so the lack of awareness among visitors and the came to believe in Baba. Now, everything is we headed out to Jamia Nagar. decline in the number of birds. “By this time of alright.” He said the surrounding structures Picking our way through the pot-holed galis 38 www.timeoutdelhi.net January 4 – 17 2013

CoverStory 002.indd 38 12/28/2012 8:41:40 PM iki (3)iki lm ba t ni a m

here, we had to stop at an intersection on Sailing Club Road, where at 1pm, namaaz proceedings in the middle of the street were blocking traffic. There are 15 mosques in the area, and the beautiful Jamia Millia Islamia University campus, founded in 1935. Other interesting landmarks include Radio Jamia, a station dedicated to the area, and further north, Batla House, where the famous encoun- ter killing took place four years ago. Looking up

from the bustle of poultry stores and Pakista- le a c s ni-style suits, we saw the 45-metre high Delhi o

Eye situated in the Delhi Rides amusement t t o

park, another establishment that hasn’t been n p a

open to the public for over a year. m However, in the same compound is the 12.5-acre Kalindi Kunj Park, which attracts a large number of spectators with its exquisitely lit fountains. Rather exhausted, we headed to the snack bar and were pleasantly surprised to discover a little shop with bread pakoras, patties, chowmein, sandwiches and a host of greasy noshes. The sight of a few canoodling couples slightly inhibited digestion, so we walked the labyrinthian track, reaching a locked gate, which would have opened on to a boardwalk overlooking the Yamuna. Reflecting lights of different hues, the grime and contamination of the river were hidden by the darkening skies. Birdie num num A kingfisher and At 6.15pm, the fountains were turned on. (r) skull at Okhla Bird Sanctuary Dancing in tinted lights, the water looked enchanting – a lovely end to the day. Casting a glance back over the joyfully shrieking children Where to go at the lonely bulwark of the abandoned Delhi Kalindi Kunj Park Kalindi Kunj Road, near Abul Eye, we couldn’t help hoping that someday Fazal Enclave. Daily 10am-7.15pm. Entry `20. the capital’s many problems might be locked Okhla Bird Sanctuary Road 13A, off Mathura away, instead of its amusement spots. Asmita Road, near Okhla Barrage, Gautam Budh Bakshi and Sonam Joshi Nagar. Daily sunrise-sunset. Entry `30. January 4 – 17 2013 www.timeoutdelhi.net 39

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