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The Reykjavík Grapevine Opinion Vesturgata 5, 101 Reykjavík www.grapevine.is The Reykjavik Baby Mafia 08 [email protected] An opinion by Marie-Alexandra Hertell www.myspace.com/reykjavikgrapevine Published by Fröken ehf. Postcard from America 08 An opinion by Valgerður Þóroddsdóttir Editorial: +354 540 3600 / [email protected] Advertising: +354 540 3605 / [email protected] Articles Publisher: +354 540 3601 / [email protected] Wanted: Musicians to Support 06 Interview with Kraum manager Eldar Ásþórsson The Reykjavík Grapevine Staff Publisher: Reviews 22 Hilmar Steinn Grétarsson [email protected] Concert Reviews 23 Editor: The Faroe Islands / Agent Fresco with Dr. Spock / Misery Index Sveinn Birkir Björnsson / [email protected] Assistant Editor: The Icelandic Music Awards 25 Steinunn Jakobsdóttir / [email protected] Staff Writer: Calling Vatnajökull 25 Valgerður Þóroddsdóttir / [email protected] Contributing Writer: Don Mexico-Harald 26 Haukur Magnússon / [email protected] New Icelandic movie Ian Watson / www.ianwatson.org Art Director: Músíktilraunir 2008 27 Gunnar Þorvaldsson / [email protected] Grapevine reviews Iceland’s Battle of the Bands Photographer: Gunnlaugur Arnar Sigurðsson [email protected] Marketing Director: Features Jón Trausti Sigurðarson / [email protected] Sales Director: The Hugest Small Rock Fest in the World 14 Aðalsteinn Jörundsson The Grapevine goes to Aldrei fór ég suður [email protected] Support Manager: Scenes from Suburbia 10 Oddur Óskar Kjartansson / [email protected] Distribution: Þórir Gunnar Jónsson / [email protected] Proofreader: Outside Reykjavík Jane Victoria Appleton
Scenes from the Road 24 Press releases: Cruising with author Einar Kárason [email protected] Submissions inquiries: 28 Across the Country in 40 Days [email protected] Adventures of the Lonesome Traveller, Leg VIII Subscription inquiries: +354 540 3605 / [email protected] General inquiries: info. [email protected] The Reykjavík Grapevine is published 18 times Listings B2 a year by Fröken ltd. Monthly from November through April, and fortnightly from May til Food Reviews B10 October. Nothing in this magazine may be reproduced in whole or in part without the The Grapevine Summer Special B12 written permission of the publishers. Although the magazine has endeavoured to ensure that The Underground Kids of Ukraine B14 all information inside the magazine is correct, prices and details may be subject to change. The Reykjavík Grapevine can be found in Reykjavík, Akureyri, Egilsstaðir, Selfoss, Keflavík, Ísafjörður, Kárahnjúkar and at key locations around road #1 and at all major tourist attractions and tourist information centres.
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From the Editor’s Chair
A friend suggested that I try and write something tion. It’s a luxury problem really. to pay for a drink at the bar anymore. Filmmak- a little more optimistic on this page. I’ll try, but Summer also makes it possible to start using ers Tjörvi Guðmundsson and Olaf de Fleur make these are desperate times. But, summer is just the bicycle more. This winter has been terrible to films. We talked to them. Author Einar Kárason around the corner. This month, we celebrate the cyclist, cold and unusually snowy. The rising gaso- writes books. We wrote about him. And others. first day of summer, according to the old Icelandic line price gives us an added economic incentive In closing, I’d like to remind everyone of the calendar. Of course, summer is still months away, to use the bike instead of the car. That’s something Support Hannes collection. but early celebrations are very much apart of the I guess. In my optimistic rage, I choose to view ris- Icelandic routine. In May, we will start to publish ing gasoline prices as an incentive to use the bike, the Grapevine twice a month. For me that official- rather than a blow to my personal economy. I am ly marks the arrival of summer. learning fast.
A^[Z^ci]ZHZlZgh!6Add`Vii]ZA^[Zd[J`gV^c^VcHigZZi@^YhDci]ZGdVYL^i]:^cVg@{gVhdc Optimism sure is limiting. This issue we bring you the conclusive I]ZAdcZhdbZIgVkZaaZgGZijgch=dbZ6\Zci;gZhXd/I]Z7VcYI]ViHjgk^kZYi]Z7ViiaZd[i]Z7VcYh
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Say your piece, voice your opinion, send your letters to [email protected].
Dear ladies and gentlemen, Re: Björk in China a friend told me Iceland girls look like fairies. Do they? Isn´t it ironic that artists have to do the jobs, we hired politi- Kindest regards, cians for ?! A very brave move. Yacine Azzouz Thank you very much.
Dear Azzouz, C.Lehmann Do you mean fairies as in gay, or fairies as in the tooth fairy? Editor Dear C. Lehman What I find even more ironic is politicians doing the job we Re: fairies hired artists to do. Like making a mockery of democracy and as the nice little flying fairies like kylie minogue in moulin putting on absurdist plays in the halls of Parliament. rouge. Editor
Azzouz Hey there, Dear Azzouz, great site - thank goodness it is in English!! No, Icelandic women look like the Leprechaun. Whoever told you otherwise was lying. coming over to Iceland this summer and I love Pall Oscar. Editor. Wondering if he would be in concert at all the first two weeks in July??? I can not find this info anywhere on line in eng- lish. Dear Grapevine , I was recently in Iceland, about two months ago visiting fam- Thanks for your help. So-o looking forward to my visit. ily. It had been many years since I had been there last, so I was able to see the country of my birth with fresh eyes. Janet Much of Reykjavik looks like a dilapitated ghetto, filthy streets , marred with graffiti, and now the pond that has been Dear Janet, a place of family enjoyment for many generations has gone I don’t know Páll Óskar’s plans for July, but here’s hoping he to hell too. Aluminum smelters are cropping up everywhere. sees this and schedules something for you. Iceland has long been admired by other cultures as a place Editor that is “special” far different from the rest of the world, a cer- tain uncorrupted innocence. Now it is loosing all of that, rap- idly, because of greed, neglect and bad decisions. Dear Grapevine, I am half Icelandic and half American I grew up half the time in Iceland, back and forth throughout the years. I worked at Keflavik Airport during that quiet recess between People boast of how great it is there...maybe these are the WWII and Korea War. Iceland, then, was a pristine wonder- ones that are too young to remember, or have not been there land for avid trout and salmon fishing devotees. Enjoyed long enough to TRULY remember how really great it WAS. myself (early 30s) with rod and reel along some of southern And I am not just speaking for my generation. I was born Icland’s best rivers and lakes. Also, of course, enjoyed (im- 1961, it’s all the generations that proceeded me, because mensly) the after hours dining and DANCING venues, includ- like in true Icelandic fashion, you hear from your relatives ing one of the best European style hotels I had visited....the all the stories about what happened in previous generations, BORG. it was good really good, and it was nothing like what’s going Is the Hotel Borg still around to make world travellers on now. Something is horribly wrong. Iceland is beautiful, welcome? but now she is more like a beautiful woman with a venereal Is the charm and beauty of the Iceland femine gender disease, prostituting her own children, and that disease is still visible...... even to an in-his-late 80s widower whose eye- beginning to show. sight has not failed him? This new generation needs to look back to the older Thinking back, is a forte of mine these days, and the generation and reconnect to the values and standards days seem pleasant-er when I can think of the townsquare- that made our country great. Yes, progress is good, but it like greenary near the Borg and the Althing buildings where needs to be selective and wisely thought out as we are a I once strolled in the long evenings of June’s midnight sun. small country and a small population and a bad thing can turn really bad very quickly. I hope people wake up quickly Jack Doyle before it is too late. Once a navigator with the Keflavik Air Rescue Unit (civilian aviation) of the very early 50’s. Natalie Cota Garcia Bless
Dear Natalie, Dear Jack, I don’t know if what you are describing is an exclusively Ice- It has been a while, hasn’t it? Borgin is still around, although it landic phenomenon. In the words of one of my mentors: things no longer hosts dances. The rivers and the lakes are still here. are tough all over. But certainly, there is every reason to reflect Some of them have been dammed, but it will cost you an arm on the state of our country and the ways in which we have and a leg to fish in the others. Some of the females you associ- chosen to conduct our daily business here. But c’mon: “like ated with at the time are still around. They have retained all a beautiful woman with a venereal disease, prostituting her their charm, but I am afraid that age has affected their good own children.” That’s a little harsh, don’t you think? I’ve never looks somewhat. Which is a shame, because the new batch of met a mother who prostituted her children who deserved to Iceland females looks like leprechauns. be put down like that by being compared to Iceland. That’s Editor just cold. Editor. www.flybus.is ENJOY YOUR TRIP WITH FLYBUS The Flybus airport shuttle will take you from Keflavik International Airport to Reykjavik city and vice versa. The Flybus is connected to all arriving and departing flights at Keflavik airport. Seats are always guaranteed.
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BSI Bus Terminal / 101 Reykjavík / Phone: +354 562-1011 / [email protected] / www.re.is 06 | Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 04 2008 | Interview
As manager of the Iceland Airwaves music festival and the Kraumur music fund, Eldar Ástþórsson is one of the most influential players in the Icelandic music scene. Photo by GAS
Wanted: Musicans to Support
Kraumur is a newly established fund that is fi- has a new album out and he has very ambitious lecting a few projects to support substantially, and “I think it is normal that nanced by the Aurora Foundation, which will as- plans to go on tour through Europe, the US and I realise that our selection is always going to be sist musicians financially in an effort to bring their Canada and this financial support allows him to debateable. I think that’s natural. But I am certain people disagree on which art to the masses. The first recipients from the take his whole band and pay them a salary, which that I am the right person to manage both proj- fund were recently introduced. The fund aims to enables him to do the tour. Instead of supporting ects. I have both my feet on the ground and I think artists Kraumur should support established artists with generous dona- ten bands to buy plane tickets to Amsterdam or I have proven that. And I have not felt any animos- tions. The first musicians who received direct sup- Copenhagen to play one show or one festival, we ity from musicians... sponsor. We are selecting port were: Mugison (4,000,000), Víkingur Heiðar want to support this tour properly. I would like to How do you select the projects to fund? And (1,500,000), Amiina (1,200,000) Celestine, Dikta, stress that there are other very good funds that how many applications for funding did you a few projects to support Elfa Rún Kristinsdóttir, FM Belfast, Skakkamanage support musicians, and we don’t want to follow in receive? and Ólöf Arnalds (500,000 each). In addition, the their footsteps. We want to find where there is a We’ve received a great number of both formal and substantially, and I rea- fund will support projects that will give musicians need for more support to take things to the next more informal applications and enquiries. The an opportunity to tour the country and to finance level. Take Celestine for example, a hardcore band formal ones number well over 100. The criteria lise that our selection is recording sessions. that would probably be happy to receive 100,000, is simply quality. We want to support ambitious, but we choose to support them with 500,000 to re- quality projects that are realistic and we want to always going to be de- Tell me a little about this new fund. cord a new album, which is the same amount that support artists who have established themselves The Aurora Foundation is a charity fund that was we give to Ólöf Arnalds and Dikta. (Amiina got a as such. bateable.” set up by Ólafur Ólafsson and his wife Ingibjörg little more than this.) Our goal is primarily to sup- There was one project that was supported Kristjánsdóttir one year ago. It focuses on support- port established artists who need funding to take that surprised me a bit. ‘Rokkað hringinn’ ing charity work and cultural projects, and Krau- the next step, rather than to reach out to young with Rás 2 (a project organised by Rás 2 radio mur is a fund that was set up as part of the Aurora and promising artists who are just starting out. station of the state-owned National Broad- Foundation, to support musicians. The idea was The list of artists the fund supports is quite casting Service where three bands tour the to establish a fund that would directly support varied, from classical pianist Víkingur Heiðar country and play in various locations). I ques- young musicians financially. We started this work to hardcore bands like Celestine. tion whether it is right for a private sponsor- at the end of last year, trying to figure out how and Yes, we would rather support quality than link the ship fund like this one to support a project where the money would be put to the best use, fund to a certain type of music. that is set up by a public company such as the and how we could make sure it would benefit the But why music? Why not something else? National Broadcasting Service. artists. Our goal is to support exciting projects and I’m probably not the right person to ask that I think we have to make a clear distinction here. exciting artists who are currently doing interest- question; it was not my decision really. I was just We are not supporting the company; we are di- ing things. brought in to manage the fund. But there is a lot of rectly supporting the artists who are taking part The funding system for musicians and artists need for financial support for musicians. There is in the project. This is part of an effort to try to sup- in Iceland has been criticised for supporting a very lively scene here but it is a small market and port artists who want to tour Iceland. It has been too many acts and donating too little money so it’s very difficult for musicians to finance their easier for musicians to get funding to tour abroad to each act. But that is not the way Kraumur is art by selling records or playing live. than to tour Iceland. We want to make it possible run. Mugison for example received four mil- This makes you one of the most influential for musicians to play outside Reykjavík. Rás 2 has lion ISK to go on tour. players, the king really, in the Icelandic mu- organised this project, but we are supporting the Yes, we decided to do this differently. I’m not even sic industry, doesn’t it? You manage this fund artists financially so they can take a week off work sure if ‘fund’ is the right word for this, it is more of and you manage the Iceland Airwaves music to be a part of this project. This is not money that an operation centre because we intend to partake festival. Does this affect your relationship is intended to finance the tour, or the PR aspect, in the projects and work with the artists on their with musicians? this is intended for artists exclusively. projects. Of course, it will be up to the artists what I don’t know. That is a very fair question, but it But shouldn’t this be the responsibility of the comes out of it. We will carefully select projects would probably be better for someone else to radio station? to sponsor, not just projects that apply, but also answer whether I am becoming too influential. It is not really for me to answer that question, but artists that we see and think are doing good things In this case I think these two responsibilities fit there is not a lot of money involved in that project and would like to sponsor. We are not just going to very nicely together. I am not alone in making on behalf of Rás 2. The artists are not receiving wait for the artists to apply; we will also seek them these decisions; not with Kraumur and nor with much, so we decided to support them. This is a out. It would be a lot easier for us to sponsor 30 Iceland Airwaves. Of course there is always a lot good and ambitious project that matches our or 40 acts with a small amount; the need is such of speculation and talk over who is going to play goals. among musicians that we could easily do that, where and when during the Iceland Airwaves fes- and it would change a lot for many musicians. But tival, but I think that is positive. People care and By Sveinn Birkir Björnsson we would rather carefully select ambitious proj- it shows that the festival is important. By the same ects and fund them properly, and trust the artists token, I think it is normal that people disagree on to take it to the next level. Mugison for example which artists Kraumur should sponsor. We are se- FREE CD Guide
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A Postcard from America
Greetings from America! was my duty as a born-again Reykjaviking to be view. The drive to consume has begun to blur the The weather is lovely here! About 4°C and sunny scornful of what I labelled as the symptoms of a lines of influence, hanging like a parasite on our with just a bit of wind, and the Current Threat Lev- distinctly American consumerism. Everything on cultures, pushing us away from what we need, to el is only at yellow, according to the Department the menu of the only available restaurant, Burger what we want, or to what we don’t want but think of Homeland Security; smack dab in the middle of King, their giant containers, along with the range we need. As a partial American, I see that the U.S. A-OK and everything being totally fucked. of pre-packaged and over-processed crap sold has that fight to fight. Its hodgepodge of cultures is So I’m feeling pretty good today. Started off in the convenience store, all seemed like vile being united under the flag of consumer culture, right: got a cup of Starbucks coffee; glanced at the symptoms of Americans’ attitude, of their innate and they must fight it just as Icelanders ambitious- day’s forecasts of economic stagnation; found out excess-ridden and unrefined tastes. ly fight prejudices regarding the scope of their in- there’s only an “elevated” chance that the country But the evils of consumer culture are distinct fluence with regard to the smallness of their size will be attacked by terrorists today; and marvelled from the evils of everyday people. I myself had just and population. at the sunny upstate New York weather which, ac- been on a road trip in Iceland where I more or As I seek to understand and acknowledge cording to the Weather Channel, is exactly the less ate nothing but French fries at rest stops for my influences, I am happy hanging somewhere same for Reykjavík today. three days straight. The American friend who was undefined in the middle, somewhere about half- It’s been a week away from my Icelandic way visiting me at the time had never in his whole life way across the North Atlantic Ocean. What makes of life, and so far I’ve become only superficially re- consumed so many French-fries in such a short the question of influence so exciting, after all, is its adjusted to the American lifestyle. When I go out period of time. Icelanders drink Coke. They shop distinct complexity. A lifetime’s worth of writing, to get a cup of coffee these days, I not only drive, in malls. They watch television and absorb adver- perhaps. I drive through a drive-through window, as Star- tisements. In this rich country, they are definitely For now I will say I miss the smell of Reyk- bucks has abandoned the façade of its European- bitten by the consumer-bug. But the scale is much javík, the cold fresh evening air, and my friends. coffee-house-allure in exchange for home-grown smaller and our borders are well taxed. I will be back with the spring. American expediency. As someone who has been educated pri- All the best. But on the domestic front things haven’t marily in the U.S., with consequential practical changed as much and as often as the National and intellectual ties to it, and as a born Icelander VALA Threat Level in the nine months I’ve been away. with a primarily Icelandic family, I am liable to de- Vala Þóroddsdóttir is a journalist for the Reykjavík Basically, I no longer need to use power adapters fend both sides in prejudiced arguments. The bug Grapevine. She is currently visiting her mother in the US. for my American devices, and when I don’t watch of Icelandic national pride is an easy one to catch TV, I’m not watching 70 channels instead of just because of its sheer novelty. A nation so isolated, not watching 3. both by its location and by its language, can’t help But things in America do tend to happen on but navel-gaze. But as mother Iceland continues a bigger scale than I’ve become accustomed to. to grow as a fiscal and pop-cultural presence in The roads, the cars, the penalties, the portions, the world, and as the world continues to shrink to and the breadth of the average ass all seem to be the size of a laptop or a portable phone, she must expanding before my eyes, but my prejudices to- learn to embrace those who have and will influ- wards the American lifestyle are fading. When I ence her back. first got here, stopping at a rest area on the high- The question of influence is everything. For way drive home from Kennedy airport, I felt it journalists, it is the Holy Grail in any story or inter-
The Reykjavik Baby Mafia
“WAAAAAAHHHHH!!!!! WAAAAAAAHHHHH!” honesty that only a child has. I definitely under- that is so safe that babies are left outside bundled This is the background soundtrack that echoes stood where he developed this presumption. If I in their strollers as parents sip wine inside a restau- and resounds in my eardrums. I hear it some- were eight I probably would have made the same rant or enjoy coffee and grown-up conversation. times, like now, as I sip my deliciously sweet Swiss conclusion. Also, because of the significant and rightly earned Mokka and try to concentrate on my writing while What is the cause of this baby mafia? Maybe paternity leave, parents can actually spend time I slouch on the sofa of my favourite kooky café. it has something to do with the significant changes with their newborn and not relegate this much- I can also detect the wailing while I drink a per- made to the Icelandic Act on Maternity/Paternity needed bonding to babysitters. This baby mania fectly cold mediocre draft beer at a bar. It’s also and Parental Leave in 2000, extending the amount may just be a mirage. the sound I hear while walking around Reykjavik of time parents can stay at home with their child. Or, maybe not. and when I turn around, there they are: toddlers New fathers are now given three months leave, as swinging like mischievous monkeys on a nearby are mothers, and an additional three months are statue. shared between them any way they wish. Further- It sometimes feels as though nearly every- more, parents who are active in the labour force one here has a child or is expecting. The parents are paid 80% of their salary. It really is amazing usually look pretty young. Maybe the fountain of how much the government respects and sup- youth is a hot pot. All you have to do is walk down ports family-oriented job policies. If there were Laugavegur to see devastatingly fashionable wom- anywhere I would want to have a child, it would en pushing their highly sophisticated baby stroll- definitely be here. On the other hand, the country ers. It makes me wonder how it is possible for whose passport I hold (USA) is one of only five that Iceland to have so few people. It’s hard to believe does not provide or require employers to provide considering the abundance of children around. some form of paid maternity leave. Quite a shock- Reykjavik seems to be a baby mecca. I have ac- ing and sad realty. Iceland is definitely a leader in tually met a few foreigners who ended up getting this respect and other countries should follow its pregnant (or getting someone else pregnant) with- example. That is, unless they have a problem with in months of moving here. Maybe all the volcanic over population because statistics show that fer- Marie-Alexandra Hertell hails from Puerto Rico. She energy makes people especially randy. I’m not tility actually increased in the aftermath of these is in a childbearing age. sure. changes. Recently my boyfriend and I were asked by On second thought, maybe there is no baby the eight-year old child of a friend of ours if he mafia. Maybe it is an illusion created by a coun- could see pictures of our kid. When we responded try that defends the rights of parents. Children that we did not have an adorable tyke of our own, are seen crying, laughing, skipping, and yelling at he looked at us quite perplexed and inquisitively every corner. This is probably because they are questioned us. “But, doesn’t everyone have at let wild on their wistful rampages since parental least one?” he asked with the holy innocence and supervision tends to be at a minimal in a country HFF´s Mortgage Loans Same terms anywhere in Iceland Loans for up to 80% of the bid price or construction cost Maximum loan amount ISK 18 million
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lll#^ah#^h 7dg\Vgic^'&!&%*GZn`_Vk` IZa/*+.+.%%!Idaa"[gZZ/-%%+.+. 10 | Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 04 2008 | Feature
Documenting the rise of a new neighbourhood.
Photos by GAS Feature | Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 04 2008 | 11 12 | Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 04 2008 | Feature The Hugest Small Rock Fest in the World
In its fifth year, the annual Aldrei fór ég suður festival has never been bigger than last Easter weekend. Two days, 34 bands and all for free!
It was almost 3am and the festival was coming to an one local festival goer told me over a beer. “It’s a end. The youngest in the audience had gone home creative community where everything is possible. to rest but excited party people had taken their Everything happens so fast. I think it’s because places. The oldest in the crowd, a couple in their death is always so nearby”. He has a point. Locked eighties, wiggled hand in hand to SSSÓL’s 90s’ hit in by a long fjord and ruthless mountains, the harsh ‘Mér finnst rigningin góð’ (I Like the Rain). Watch- environment is frightfully apparent even while you ing them captured the spirit of Aldrei fór ég suður sense something magical about this town of rough- (translates I Never Went South). A wonderfully ro- ly 3,000 inhabitants. mantic mix of joy and celebration of life. Frontman Bob Justman opened the festival with incred- Helgi Bjöss was cooler than ever and I even found ible charisma and the crowd rapidly grew. Kids myself singing along to a song I’ve spurned since climbed on top of whatever made them see the my teenage years. It’s hard to say what was in the air stage better, police-dogs sniffed for drugs and the inside that old warehouse in the desolated fishing line outside the outdoor toilets steadily grew. town of Ísafjörður, but the song suddenly seemed The line-up for the weekend was immensely the best one ever written. diverse, musically and experientially. Hot-shots The now frantic crowd cheered Rockmaster in Hjaltalín, with all their complex instruments, Mugison, his dad, wife and all the other organisers cramped the same stage as Faroese diva Eivör. as they joined SSSÓL in a sing-along to ‘Farðu alla Johnny Sexual dressed to impress while Steintryg- leið’ (Go All the Way). They are the town’s heroes. gur impressed with no fancy clothing required. The Recognition well deserved. With their own unique middle-aged in the room showed equal interest in festival, Mugison and co. have put their remote Ísafjörður’s own Mysterious Marta and in Ben Frost’s hometown on the music map as one of the most experimental guitar noise (although two ladies in rockin’ towns in the world. the front row commented that this act was “perhaps a bit too loud”) Three Generations of Rockers Punk-rockers in Morðingjarnir owned Friday In its fifth year, the annual Aldrei fór ég suður festi- night. That is indisputable. “Throw something at val has never been bigger than last Easter weekend. me!” screamed Atli, the intoxicated bassist, before Two days, 34 bands and all for free! Unlike so many he fell on the floor. The crowd didn’t think twice. music festivals around, there is nothing complicat- Beer bottles flew onto stage before the sound guy ed about this one. Staged in a warehouse down by stepped in and put a stop to it. Although the three- the harbour, each band gets 20 minutes to fascinate some didn’t know all their songs, their attitude set the audience no matter whether they are legendary the mood for the evening, which included Hjálmar Megas or newcomers to the music scene. There is playing with Megas and Megas supporting Hjálmar. no actual headliner. Everyone is equal, sleeps in the Mugison himself closed the night with a perfor- same dorm or crashes on a friend’s couch. Sound mance and applause that almost made the roof ex- checks are for wusses and bands swap drummers plode. No explanation needed. and guitarists, which leaves room for whole lot of mistakes and an equal amount of fun. Here, every- Yellow Gloves and Priceless Spandex one is a friend, a relative or soon-to-be friend or Swarms of hung-over festival goers roamed around relative. Over the weekend, music is celebrated in town in search of food and wake-up coffee to pre- front of a homemade stage decorated with fishnets pare for the extensive programme on Saturday af- and Christmas lights. ternoon. Those brave enough to think of alcohol at Among rock stars throwing empty beer cans that time loaded up on beer from the liquor store. around, kids munch on pizza slices and young Nearly 12 hours of music, dancing, hugging and couples make out in the corners. Babies with head- kissing lay ahead. phones cuddle up to their moms, their grandparents We saw a couple of great performances, nod, a little shocked, to XXX Rottweiler’s aggressive some curious bands and missed a lot of super acts hip-hop beats while their teenage sisters wait in awe (Biogen, Múgsefjun and Ultra Mega Technobandið with drumsticks and baseball caps for their idols to Stefán in particular, which we heard were all cra- sign. Three generations gather to rock with people zy). The young Sudden Weather Change grow with from around the country and beyond. “This is the every performance, Sprengjuhöllin and Sign both best festival in the world!” I heard repeatedly, from showed why they are such huge crowd-pleasers guests who had travelled from as close as next door and the sexy Skátar sporting golden spandex tights to as far as many hours on a plane to get to this iso- brought the crowd to a level of general insanity. “I lated Westfjord location. bought them for 3,000 ISK. Now I’ve played in them Ísafjörður’s population doubles during the so they’re priceless!” guitarist Kolli told a young fe- Easter weekend and the festival has become so male fan who clearly wanted nothing more than to popular that it was impossible for us to get accom- get his pants off after the gig. modation. The Grapevine team therefore had to But it was a local act that drew the biggest settle for the next neighbouring town, Bolungavík. crowd and the warehouse was way more than That got us to know this friendly community even packed when the working-men’s choir Karlakórinn better and learn that hospitality is more of a rule Ernir squeezed onto the stage. The whole town had than an exception. “I love to drive. I just hate to arrived to see their local heroes so it was a brutal charge for it,” the taxi-driver who shuttled us from fight to get a glimpse of what was going on. Dressed Bolungavík told us before welcoming us inside his in their Sunday best, with yellow rubber gloves, home to use his computer. “Feel free to come any fronted by Dr. Spock’s singer Óttarr Proppé, the time if you need anything. Our name is on the door- choir reached unknown heights when performing bell,” his wife added. Thanks! Spock’s Eurovision contribution ‘Hvar ertu nú?’ Clearly one of the festival’s highlights. “Throw Something At Me!” In all, this was a unique event. The coolest The two-day feast started with fish stew, which we festival I’ve ever attended. My only worry is that it missed unfortunately. When the five of us arrived might be growing too fast for its own good. I hope after a seven-hour drive from Reykjavík, the festival it will stay small and homey, as being part of some- goers had swallowed the last bite before heading to thing so spectacular makes you feel privileged. To the concert venue. We tagged along. all those who rocked, we salute you! As a first timer to AFS, the charm of the festi- val and its stunning surroundings left me tongue- By Steinunn Jakobsdóttir tied. “Ísafjörður is a metropolis in the Westfjords” Photos by GAS Feature | Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 04 2008 | 13 The Hugest Small Rock Fest in the World
In its fifth year, the annual Aldrei fór ég suður festival has never been bigger than last Easter weekend. Two days, 34 bands and all for free!
Magnús The festival this year is definitely a lot bigger than last year. I take into account the number of cars, and it’s certainly not fewer than last year. I think we’re starting to need larger venue.
Anna Sigríður Mugison’s set was crazy. I think the West- fjord pride really came to life when he stepped on stage. Even though he’s our adopted son, we still feel like we own him.
Davíð This is my first time at the festival but I’ve wanted to come every year since it started. I really enjoyed Sudden Weather Change, they reminded me of being 15. 14 | Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 04 2008 | Reviews
CONCERT CONCERT THEATRE
Photo by GAS Photo by GAS Photo by GAS
The Faroese Islands Agent Fresco - Dr. Spock Misery Index
Where: Organ When: March 18, 2008 Where: Organ When: March 28, 2008 Where: Organ When: March 27, 2008
The Faroese invasion achieves momentary success at Organ. Newly crowned kings of the newcomers, Agent Fresco, mix jazz and Baltimore’s Misery Index proves that a good dose of metal is the . metal influenes, while Dr. Spock feed off their recent TV success. best cure for recession. At the same time local celebrities toasted their victories at the Ice- landic Music Awards, Faroese musicians invaded Organ with a set The concert started considerably later than I expected. The first By the time I arrived at Organ, Celesine had already fired up the much more energetic than any awards-party could ever be. Eivör band, Agent Fresco, recently won the Icelandic version of The Battle heavy machinery and set out on their path of destruction. It was a Pálsdóttir, the blonde queen from the small village of Gøta, was first of the Bands so I was excited to see what they had to offer. Many somewhat misguided journey. As awesome as this post-metal band to take to the stage. Looking like she was pulled straight from a fairy have tried and failed at what Agent Fresco seems to be able to do sounds on record, they face a problem on stage. They sorely lacked tale, she shone with her huge voice. Eivör is an incredible singer with the greatest of ease. Their music is a strange mix of jazz and stage presence and failed to engage their audience. Admittedly, the and backed only by her acoustic guitar her performance was more rock. They infuse the two genres skilfully by being able to apply crowd was tough and made it a hard sell, but Celestine were still dynamic than a five-piece sporting crazy drum action and heroic unexpected power to their formal music training. The band some- largely at fault as they seemed incapable of making the audience guitar solos. Although her lyrics are a bit cheesy, her singing is so how remains harmonious through this process and I applaud them care that they’d even shown up, despite drawing the night’s biggest effortless and her stage presence so sincere that she is pure joy to for that. Very original. There was only one thing that bothered me: crowd. watch. the singer. He’s not bad, he’s just doesn’t suit the band. I did not Even with their faces covered behind a thick curtain of hair, At the time Eivör finished her set, the place was packed with appreciate a screamer on top of such a refined flock of players. On Severed Crotch did a better job of engaging the audience. Their Faroese friends and local fans. The extremely wild Boys in a Band the bright side it might bring jazz to the metal loving masses. Agent technical death metal is a great display of dexterity and the band brought the crowd to a state of total madness with their powerful Fresco is a very promising band. Whether they’ll become preten- proficiently adheres to their chosen genre, but ultimately falls a tad head-banging rock n’ roll and the sweaty front row screamed their tious or honest musicians, is yet to be discovered. short of distinguishing itself from other like-minded bands. Their lungs out when the fivesome climaxed in ‘Beyond Communication’. Dr. Spock are widely known for their rubber gloves and pow- delivery is impeccable, but they don’t add enough to the formula to Their Hammond-organ player, with his long beard, twitchy moves erful performances, especially after breaking into mainstream with stand out from the rest. That being said, the occasional attempt to and fun choice of clothes, reminded me of Captain Jack Sparrow, their hit, “Hvar ertu nú” from the Eurovision pre-selection TV show. mix it up did a lot for their performance and their second song of the which only made me love them even more. If Boys in a Band are any It was business as usual for them. Funny costumes and a playful take night, Spawn of Disgust, showed that the band is capable of great indication of the Faroese music scene, the future looks pretty damn on metal pleased audience members immensely. Their raw power things. good. seems to have an amazing effect on fans. Every time I see Dr. Spock Death metal bands that draw their names from economic indi- The crowd diminished when the electro-dance-pop group play, the crowd seems to give their all to respond to the music, and cators are in short supply, but Baltimore’s Misery Index proved that a Bloodgroup jumped on stage but the downswing can be explained that is beautiful. The concert at Organ was no exception. good dose of metal is the best cure for recession. I didn’t know what partly by the fact that it was almost 1am on a Tuesday night. The All in all it was a fine night. The bands knew their game and to expect when I arrived, but I was not prepared for this. Their core- three siblings from the East fjords of Iceland, the Faroese maniac seemed to be enjoying themselves. I would’ve liked to see them start ridden deathgrind was as fast and heavy as anything I’ve witnessed Janus on the octapad and their scratching DJ B-Ruff were far from before midnight as advertised. It’s not necessary to keep these in- recently, but what truly set them apart was the sheer intensity of tired and proved once again that they are a great live band, any day sane concert hours. their performance and the joy they took in executing it. Their per- of the week. formance floored me and despite the rather unreceptive crowd, I By Helga Þórey Jónsdóttir managed to forget completely about Iceland’s free-falling currency. By Steinunn Jakobsdóttir By Sveinn Birkir Björnsson
Icelandic for beginners
Framvegis oferuje kursy nauki języka islandzkiego. New courses starting April 28th. www.framvegis.is Reviews | Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 04 2008 | 15
CD CD BOOK
The Windows of Brimnes Bill Holm
In 1998, Minnesotan writer and teacher Bill Holm bought himself a house called Brimnes in Hofsós, a small village in northern Iceland. He began to spend his summer vacations there, playing the piano, writing, watching the mountains on the other side of Skagafjörður, entertaining visitors and getting to know his neighbours and his own Icelandic roots. Already the author of several books of essays and poetry, Holm has now, for the first time, written a book about Iceland. The Windows of Brimnes is a well-packed lunch box of essays; Áfram Ísland! Bar Out of Hellvar compact and focused. There are ten chapters, which can all be read Morðingjarnir Hellvar independently. The first four cover Hofsós, Skagafjörður, Icelandic birds, and Icelandic folktales. Then Holm shifts his gaze towards America, with an essay about Icelandic immigrants and his own Áfram Ísland! (Go Iceland!) is the second album from the punk Hellvar draws its name from a of husband-wife duo Heiða and Elvar, family history, another about his youth and young adulthood in the threepiece that sprang from Dáðadrengir, a rock/rap band that won who formed the band as a folk duo some four years ago but have shadow of the Vietnam War, and a third about the question of how the Icelandic version of the battle of the bands a few years back. now added two new members and become an electro-rock band. It much choice we have in deciding who and what we listen and pay Morðingjarnir are true to their roots, and play punk to serve the mass- is a hit and miss effort. The album tops early, there is a great instru- attention to. The three concluding essays discuss Icelandic Christi- es. Nothing too complicated, just stuff that makes you want to scream mental song called Insomnia and the album’s best song, 11 Types, anity (both in Iceland and North America), Icelandic poetry, and and headbutt someone. More than anything, they evoke memories of follows. Give me Gold is another song that helps the effort, but on finally Icelandic (and American) politics. the Icelandic cult favorites Innvortis, although international listeners the whole, the electro – rock mix fails to produce a very exciting Holm sees untapped value in small communities, whose might prefer the tag So-Cal to put them in their respective category. It record. There is a lot of things to like, almost every song has ele- neighbourliness fascinates and comforts him. His 1996 book The might be fitting, it is just not as relevant. 14 songs in all, Áfram Ísland! ments that sound exciting, but the complete product still falls short Heart Can Be Filled Anywhere on Earth argues that one can lead runs smoothly and makes for one of the most positive listening expe- of being exciting. SBB a full and satisfying life in Minneota, Minnesota (population 1500), riences of the year. SBB his home town. Windows of Brimnes is an ode to the way of life in Hofsós and Skagafjörður. Holm has little appetite for Reykjavík, which, he regrets, “is now a real city.” Just when the reader is ready to dismiss Holm as hopelessly in the grip of what Jim Rice has called the Iceland-is-wonderful dis- course, comes the book’s last essay, “Fog.” In it, Holm recognises that he has presented an image of Iceland slathered in “whipped CD CD cream and jam.” He proposes that Icelandic “idealism, intelligence, and humour” is also mixed with “venality, foolishness, and greed.” He especially criticises aluminium processing and the dam at Kárahnjúkar, which he says amount to the deflowering of the Icelan- dic landscape. Regardless of one’s stance towards smelters and dams, this is a welcome recognition that life in Iceland is not just a midsum- mer idyll. There is another Iceland where trout are raised in pens, not fished from lakes and streams; few people write, and fewer still farm; and daily life is, like elsewhere, burdened by political and moral uncertainty and dispute. Key to Holm’s love of Iceland is that it is his refuge from the disturbances of the American soul. Holm is a free-thinking Christian rather than a fundamentalist, a truth-teller rather than a dissembler, an observer rather than a war-maker, and someone who questions what he is told to believe. In Iceland, society shares his values, or All is WELL Celebrating Life at least more so than in America. Hofsós is a safe perch where he Sam Amidon Borko looks back towards America, explaining that there is another way, and that he has made it reality for himself. But I suspect that there are a lot of readers who will like Holm’s American indie-folk artist Sam Amidon is a member of the Valgeir Sig- Borko is the recording pseusdonym of Björn Kristjánsson, a music sweeter, creamier take, and that Windows of Brimnes will do well. urðsson’s Bedroom Community label, which is usually a benchmark teacher who is also a member of the band Skakkamanage. Formerly, I had a good time reading it, and recommend it as one of the better for quality. On this album, Amidon, who is the son of profesional folk Borko was exclusively an electro musician, but on this album he Iceland books on the market, a concise and readable record of an musicians in Vermont, takes on old folk songs and delivers his own strikes another tone. Borko’s music is a sentimental mix of electro- American’s attachment to the North Atlantic. version with the help of Nico Muhly, a New York-based composer re- accoustica, delivered with the help of friends from múm and Hjaltalín sponsible for string arrangements, and producer Valgeir Sigurðsson. among others. There are many instruments at play here and Borko’s By Ian Watson The result is an eerily wailful and wistful recording, filled with sorrow songwriting shows a certain flair for crescendos. The arrangements and sincerity. Amidon’s voice is full of sombre feelings and melan- are low-key but regularly erupt. Some songs are instrumental, and I choly, which fits this collection of songs perfectly. Although this is not happen to like those songs more: singing is not necessarily Borko’s the type of music that fits every occasion, it is another fine product strongest skill, but also, the arrangements are such that the singing from the Bedroom Community. SBB often adds little to the song. I suspect there will be a large audience for this album. Myself, I am torn between liking it and not liking it. I enjoy the warm character and the friendly atmosphere of the album, but I wish it carried a little more punch. SBB
EDDAS AND SAGAS Iceland’s national treasures
MEDIEVAL MANUSCRIPTS – EDDAS AND SAGAS. EXHIBITION AT THE CULTURE HOUSE.
The Culture House - Þjóðmenningarhúsið Open daily between 11am and 5pm National Centre for Cultural Heritage The admission fee grants entry to all exhibitions at the Culture House. Adults ISK 300. Senior citizens ISK 200. Hverfi sgata 15, 101 Reykjavik Students ISK 200. Free entry for children 16 years of age or younger. Admission is free on Wednesdays. Tel.: +354 545 1400, www.thjodmenning.is An open guided tour of the Manuscripts exhibition is offered every weekday except Wednesdays at 3:30 pm. 16 | Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 04 2008 | Article
Einar Kárason outside Gljúfrasteinn. Behind him, Chrysler PT Cruiser. Photo by GAS
Scenes from the Road: Einar Kárason
On Cars “I consider myself very lucky to have ful car. Also, Einar tells me he does not care for and writing a crossword puzzle. In both cases you “I went on a Greyhound witnessed both the rise and fall of the petrol fuel horses. are working with metaphors and words, but it is a age,” says author Einar Kárason behind the wheel completely different line of work.” bus trip to Minnesota in of his Chrysler PT Cruiser. “We have not witnessed On 13th Century Einar is writing a historical nov- any real advances in this technology for 100 years, el that takes place in the 13th century. It is his sec- On Gljúfrasteinn We decide on a different route 1982 to do research. It and now it has become obsolete. But it is a won- ond book about that era. “The 13th century was a on our way back. We will pass through Þingvellir derful way to travel.” lot like the 20th century. It was a time of change, and make a stop at Gljúfrasteinn, the house of No- was too exotic for me to His love of cars, American cars in particular, and a time of great prosperity. Iceland was very bel Prize winning author Halldór Laxness, where was passed on from his father, a man who spent rich with culture at the time. Of course, there was we marvel at the diminutive kitchen and gaze in write about unless I ex- his life on the road, driving big-rigs and taxis for a a civil war raging through that whole century. “ wonder at the thousands of books Laxness kept. living. A man who once refused to pick Einar up Einar admires the many different transla- perienced it, so I bought from Keflavík Airport in his mother’s Fiat. “My fa- On the Road Cars figure prominently in many of tions of Laxness’ works. I ask the caretaker how ther never considered cars to be cars unless they Einar’s books. So does the road: “That book was many languages there are: “42.” I ask Einar how a ticket with the advance were American or perhaps German. Anything else the result of our mutual admiration of Kerouac’s many languages his books are available in. He he considered to be shopping carts.” On the Road,” says Einar about a travelogue he co- looks up and smiles a little. “I think I’m up to 12.” for my first book. I lived wrote with author Ólafur Gunnarsson about a road On Writing Einar Kárason is a writer. Or rather, as trip across the US in an old Cadillac. Two days af- On Fame Einar does a lot of readings from his in a trailer park.” we agree to put it, he has not done an honest day’s ter our trip to Selfoss, Einar is heading for Boston work. Once he was asked to read at his old sec- work in 25 years. His first published work was a to drive around New England for two weeks. ondary school. “I met one of my old teachers book of poetry in 1979. In 1983 his first book in the “I went on a Greyhound bus trip to Minneso- there. He said: ‘30 years ago, who would have be- Devil’s Island trilogy appeared and cemented his ta in 1982 to do research. It was too exotic for me lieved that one day you’d be asked to come back?’ place as one of the most prominent Icelandic writ- to write about unless I experienced it, so I bought That made me laugh.” ers of his generation. “I only have one rule when a ticket with the advance for my first book. I lived I am writing. I write the first chapter last,” Einar in a trailer park.” Einar Kárason has written ten novels, collections explains. “You have to know the whole story be- of short stories, poetry screenplays, memoirs and fore you start.” On Crime Novels “When you write a novel, you biographies. Translations of his works are avail- are ultimately playing with variations of things able in English, German, French, Swedish, Danish, On Selfoss We are driving towards Selfoss where you have seen or heard,” Einar says. Although Norwegian and other languages. we will stop for coffee before hitting the road crime fiction has proved to be a lucrative field for again. Our trip is an exercise in futility. There is Icelandic writers, he has no intention of writing By Sveinn Birkir Björnsson no destination; there is only the journey. And our a detective story. “To me, the difference between conversation. We discuss Werner Herzog’s films, writing a novel and writing a detective story is the James Conrad’s books and what makes a beauti- same as the difference between writing a poem
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The Icelandic Music Awards Calling Vatnajökull
Everyone who’s anyone who was up for an award The festivities continued royally, Sprengjuhöl- You are bound to listen carefully. The drip, crack, glad that the work spread so far – after all, the rea- was at the 14th annual Icelandic Music Awards on lin performing Verum í sambandi which, ten min- splash, plop and clack of icebergs melting echoes son I chose to use a phone in the first place was March 18. The President, the Mayor of Reykjavík, utes later, won them pop/rock song of the year. down the phone line, leaving the listener to con- to make it reachable from almost anywhere, both and anyone who may have had a chance to carry “Super,” continued Felix, “just great. Isn’t this just jure up images of the depths of the glacial lagoon, singular and universal at the same time. Attempt- home a trophy were sure to make an appearance so much fun?” Yes, the fun truly abounded, and where the sounds emerge from. The sound of ing to bring something so immense to an intimate at the Reykjavík City Theatre that Tuesday night, the comeback of the year, Páll Óskar, picked up Europe’s largest glacier melting, its pieces of ice scale,” she explains. and the hall was at intervals consequently half- his first of three awards of the night, procuring his plunging into the lagoon, stir up a plethora of empty. second Singer of the Year title since 1995, saying, images and sounds: water ebbing and flowing The Sound of Global Warming The pre-drink in the lobby was embellished “I turned 38 on Sunday, and I’m still fucking gor- against a raft, the clacking of ice cubes in a glass While the glacier itself measures 8,000 km² with by the presentation of awards for film score, vid- geous.” The audience heartily applauded. jug, the sound of rain running down a corrugated an average thickness of 400 m, the lagoon was eo, and album cover of the year, the first of which Ceremonial awards followed, including a iron roof. formed less than 75 years ago and is rapidly ex- went to Pétur Ben for the score of the film Parents, Patron Recognition Award granted to billionaire With her project Vatnajökull: (the sound of), panding as the glacier shrinks, partially due to and the latter two going to Mugison’s latest re- Björgólfur Guðmundsson and an Honorary Award Glaswegian artist Katie Paterson has brought the climate change, revealing glacial ice up to 1,500 lease, Mugiboogie. Patrons stocked up on drinks and tribute medley given to pop-king Rúnar Júlíus- sounds of one melting glacier to your receiver. The years old. and headed into the theatre’s main auditorium son for his 40-year plus contribution to the Icelan- idea being that with a simple phone call, people The National Energy Authority says that it where a range of camera crew and equipment, dic music scene. The ceremony began drawing from around the world can listen live to the mass is witnessing Iceland’s glaciers retreat at unprec- including giant spider-like cranes, awaited the to- to a close but the crowd remained glued to their glacier melting. “I did an interview with BBC Ra- edented levels. When Iceland’s first settlers ar- be-broadcast live show. seats as Páll Óskar suddenly appeared with what dio Arabic Services, and calls started coming in rived on the island around 900 AD, the edge of TV personality and former children’s show seemed the first communal excitement-charged from the Middle East. I was imagining people in Vatnajökull’s glacier tongue Breiðamerkurjökull is host, Felix Bergsson, was the night’s ringmaster moment of the night, and with a wave of his hand these very hot places calling to listen to this very thought to have been about 20 km further north and talking head, setting the tone for the evening and a flash of his glittering white suit took over the cold place,” Paterson says. than it is now. with his unwavering twaddle recited from the gi- entire stage. “All for love,” he sang, and for a mo- The project, which involved sinking a water- While the sound of a melting glacier unsur- ant teleprompter screen planted at the top of the ment, with the life that suddenly buzzed through proof microphone in Vatnajökull’s glacial lagoon, prisingly raises associations with global warming, auditorium. After a few embarrassingly generic the crowd after the sterile two-hour ceremony, it Jökulsárlón, attached to a mobile phone set to Paterson says she isn’t striving for an environmen- pop-culture references, including an irrelevant seemed like it just might be true. auto-answer and an amplifier on land, was first tal message. She acknowledges the effect that a recitation of a line from the Wiggle Wiggle Song, presented for a week in June 2007. Due to its im- changing climate is having on the ice cap – going the awards for songwriter and lyricist were hand- By Valgerður Þóroddsdóttir mense success – around 3,200 calls from 47 differ- so far as to describe the lagoon as “a graveyard ed out, with the obvious favourites, Högni Egils- ent countries and states (from Poland to Palestine) of glaciers” – but insists that the project is more son of Hjaltalín and Bergur Ebbi Benediktsson of were received – Paterson is running the project about the glacier’s grandeur slipping away than a Sprengjuhöllin, each beating the iconic Megas in again, this time extending it to two months. direct message about climate change. their respective categories. Jökulsárlón lies at the southern end of Vat- In the transition Felix really capitalised on the najökull and measures 20 km² and 200 m in depth. Dial the glacier (April 2 – June 1): +44 (0) cheer in the air. “Yeah, that was fun! Terrific.” The pool of icebergs is so spectacular that visitors 7757001122, www.katiepaterson.org. often admire it in silence. But while the beauty of the lagoon is magnificent, Paterson chooses to By Zoë Robert withhold the visual in this project, preferring to evoke images of the unseen “dying” glacier. “I was
Energy for life through forces of nature
www.bluelagoon.com 18 | Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 04 2008 | Article
Don Mexico-Harald
After several successful documentaries (The Amazing Truth About Queen Raquela, Africa United), The Higher Force (opened March 28) is Olaf de Fleur’s first foray into the world of feature films. A comedy described as “almost a gangster movie,” The Higher Force tells the tale of Davíð, a petty criminal and debt-collector who acci- dentally stumbles into the world of international organised crime when he mistakenly draws the conclusion that his landlord is the criminal kingpin Mexico-Harald. The film is destined to be a box office hit for two reasons: First, the director’s name sounds exotic (a good indicator, cf. Baltasar Ko- rmákur), and secondly it stars Michael Imperioli of The Sopranos fame. When The Grapevine caught up with Olaf de Fleur, whose real name is Ólafur Jóhannesson, we first asked him about his name. He started to ramble on about his great-grandmother who produced wine in France, but he finally got to the point: “Lars Von Trier’s name isn’t Von Trier at all. If he can do it, so can I!” But how does he explain the presence of a semi-big American actor in a medium-size Icelandic flick? “The role was ideal for an American mafia-type such as Michael,” he explains. “We sent out of- fers to several actors and, to our surprise, Michael actually accepted the role. When he came to Iceland it was an even bigger surprise. All through the process we never really grasped it.” The Icelandic movie industry has improved greatly in the last ten-plus years. When asked about the recent international success of Icelandic filmmakers Baltasar Kormákur (Mýrin, 101 Reykjavík) and Ragnar Bragason (Children, Parents), De Fleur states that their success was not an overnight thing. “Both Ragnar Bragason and Bal- tasar worked really hard for their status and at some point in both of their careers they were almost bankrupt,” de Fleur says. “In order to become a real director you simply have to face the fact that you will have to live at your mother’s place for a few more years and not jump into a new shitty career if things don’t work out for you immediately. And the first lesson you’ll learn is that you haven’t got anything when you start out; no reputation and no money. Basically you have to make a movie out of nothing.”
By Sigurður Kjartan Kristinsson
Stills from Stóra planið
Fly and discover
NUUK GRÍMSEY Greenland
Air Iceland destinations ÍSAFJÖRÐUR VOPNAFJÖRÐUR
AKUREYRI
EGILSSTAÐIR
NERLERIT INAAT Greenland KULUSUK Greenland NARSARSSUAQ Greenland REYKJAVÍK
FAROE ISLANDS
WESTMAN ISLANDS Get your action-packed day tour brochure
/SIA.IS/ICE 34752 04/07 airiceland.is at hotels, airports or any travel agent. / tel. 570 3030 ÍSLENSKA Article | Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 04 2008 | 19
Músíktilraunir 2008
The top of the youthful crop was crowned this March 15 at the final round of Iceland’s 27th annual Battle of the Bands, Músíktilraunir, in the Hafnarhús Reykjavík Art Museum. 49 bands competed in semi-finals the preceding week with 10 finalists advancing. Each band had the chance to perform two origi- nal songs and made it through to the next stage by either winning the audience’s vote or the judge’s vote in each round. Intended for rocksters between the ages of 13 – 25, the Músík- tilraunir battle has been known to launch some big names onto the local scene. Kolrassa Krókríðandi, Maus, Mínus, the XXX Rottweiler dogs, and Jakobínarína all took home the gold at one point in time, and the Battle gets name-dropped in reference to the bands as often as vice versa. Last year’s winners, Shogun, had the honour of opening the night’s contest and playing the anointed role models. They had a tight-knit sound, with a three-tiered guitar and bass medley running alongside variant hardcore screams, but they lacked charisma and charm. The night’s closing and winning act, Agent Fresco, had a simi- lar character problem. The band was comprised of extremely well- versed instrumentalists, with the bassist, drummer and guitarist all receiving the official accolades for their respective instruments at the end of the night, yet their effort was more an exhibition of their instrumental know-how than of ambitious musical cogitation. Their rapid and meticulously layered instrumentals were enticing enough, but when paired with unfocused, frenetic vocal shouts, screams and fast-paced talking, unravelled into something completely inac- cessible and far too schizophrenic to yield any lasting effect. The final results of the night reflected a distinct and calculat- ed diplomatic quality. In second place was the R&B/rap duo Óskar Axel & Karen Páls, who were juvenile but entertainingly so, accom- panied by a hooking beat and backup break dancers. In third place was the screamo band Endless Dark, who did their emo-rock thing well and weren’t lacking in cohesion, purported intensity or faux- hawk thrashing. The night’s highlight however, turned out to be the sincere and ambitious efforts of the youngsters of Hinir, Happy Funeral and Blæ- ti, whose sets were perhaps less innovative, but much more com- pelling than the rest. Blæti, the classical counterpart to the night’s winners, were a well-schooled band of 18-year-olds who masterfully mingled a clarinet, drums, keyboard, and bass into ruminations that were charming for being original in an earnest rather than showy way.
Text by Valgerður Þóroddsdóttir
Photos by GAS
Fly and discover
NUUK GRÍMSEY Greenland
Air Iceland destinations ÍSAFJÖRÐUR VOPNAFJÖRÐUR
AKUREYRI
EGILSSTAÐIR
NERLERIT INAAT Greenland KULUSUK Greenland NARSARSSUAQ Greenland REYKJAVÍK
FAROE ISLANDS
WESTMAN ISLANDS Get your action-packed day tour brochure
/SIA.IS/ICE 34752 04/07 airiceland.is at hotels, airports or any travel agent. / tel. 570 3030 ÍSLENSKA 20 | Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 04 2008 | Article
Across the Country in 40 Days
Last summer, Fabrizio Frascaroli spent 40 days again, saturated by a sensation of renewal, as rest, I felt the wooden structure faltering and shak- “I have been in the wild walking across Iceland from East to West. This is someone who has just shaken off an unpleasant ing under the violence of each blow, and began the final segment of his story. dream. Only one question kept bugging me: why to fear that the time had come for that untamed for thirty-three days, on earth Simon & Garfunkel? shelter – which had already endured some thirty I spent part of two days walking along the outlaws’ winters at the doorstep of the glacier – to be wiped caressed places of for- trails that cross the plains and lavas of Kjölur, un- The Mountain Church out by the geography of the mountains, and me der variable weather, swinging moods, and the The rest of the day brought no answers – only with it. I fell into a troubled sleep, wondering what gotten beauty, lived in gloomy vigilance of the Hrútfell Mountain, the sole more wonder. Soon, Fjallkirkja appeared before I would be waking up to. landmark of the area. I began to feel the savour me with all the might and violence of an epiph- A veil of thick mist cast its dull uniformity uninterrupted proximity of the passing hours changing as the end drew any. Just a few days before, I had heard about a on ice and rock alike when I woke. The wind must near. The fluttering fog banks and sudden waves well-documented attempt to seek the Holy Grail have ceased during the night, the air was still, qui- to dazzling landscapes, of chilled air reminded me that in wraith-infested in the vicinity of Kerlingarfjöll. If I were to dedi- et, humid and relatively warm, but visibility was Kjölur, one is never alone. The sporadic sunbeams cate myself to pseudo-archaeology and vaguely reduced to a matter of metres. Even the “watch- experienced the awe and left my clothing damp with cold sweat under the esoteric quests, Fjallkirkja – the Mountain Church tower” of Fjallkirkja was concealed from sight, darkening sky. The sharp icefalls of Hrútfell grew on the edge of the Glacier – is surely the place I buried in the fog, reappearing every now and then sometimes the horror of grim and painfully close, piercing the view with would begin to dig. It surfaced from the horizon as a twisted and ghostly sculpture of stone. their pale blue radiance as warnings of the up- abruptly, without warning, as soon as the south- I ventured out for a short reconnaissance Nature, and perhaps prov- coming challenges, as anticipations of the bite of ern slopes of Hrútfell were behind me – a mas- trip onto the glacier. The danger of several cre- the ice in the days ahead. I steered westward and sive bulk of black rock rising from the whiteness vasses – a couple of which were treacherously en something to myself. I shivered as I approached the glacier. of the ice, symmetrical in its shape, imposing in hidden under thin snow – made all decisions A more intense feeling of uneasiness and size, surmounted by a thick and rounded pinnacle easier: I would wait another day, and not dare wonder what will remain contemplation caught me while I was fetching spiking from the midst of its solid shoulders. In cross Langjökull unless under far more favourable fresh water from one of the rare springs – a gush- another country, or another place, it could have conditions. I killed the remainder of that day in a of all this.” ing and clear stream running amidst thick moss easily been mistaken for a man-made artefact, a timeless laze, melting snow to replenish my water and an unusual patch of greenness surrounded forbidding Templars’ fortress maybe, erected on reserves, thinking of possible alternatives to the by barren land. I felt fear for the imminent glacial the hilltop to guard over some secret treasure, to original route, currently denied, and simply sleep- traverse, bitterness and regret for the conclusion mark the threshold to the glacial wasteland. ing the hours away. I repeatedly browsed through of my trip coming so swiftly, and the sore grip of I reached the summit of Fjallkirkja late in the pages of the hut’s guestbook, pondering over loneliness even harder in this menacing and for- the evening, after a 500 m ascent – like a path of the low number of visitors that seemed to have saken place. I got cold and sat still. penitence to prepare the pilgrim for admittance to come across that enchanted place over the years I don’t know how long I sat there, nor where the sanctuary on top. A desert of dark-brown rock – evidently neglected, and yet the most intriguing the music came from. And really I cannot guess surrounded the solitary tower, slab-shaped as if surprise in my whole journey. by what twisted unconscious path a long-buried to form a natural stairway. I took my place in the The cloak of fog did not lift the next morning. sliver of conscience re-emerged from the farthest small hut at the southern edge of the mountain: I left Fjallkirkja behind in a slow and sombre stum- depths of memory. All I can say is that it was the a very basic but properly tended cabin brought ble down the slopes, resigned and overwhelmed voices of Simon & Garfunkel that finally rescued there by members of the Icelandic Glaciological by a sensation of defeat and regret. I made for the me from that sorrowful silence. It echoed in my Society some three decades ago, devoid of servic- nearby Ferðafélag Íslands hut in Þverbrekkumúli. head and rang with sounds of healing and relief, es and facilities except for a few beds. After dark- Shortly after my arrival, three Germans also hit the and wiped the lingering shadows of Kjölur away. ness came and the first late summer stars were cabin. They offered me rum and spoke all night I felt warmth again: I rose just in time to meet a lit, the wind rose, vomited by Langjökull in all its of the joys of such things as biting salami in the full, yellow sun tearing the clouds apart and paint- wrath and anger. The howling hit and slammed middle of a carefree hike. I left in higher spirits ing a glorious day all around me. I picked the trail the cabin’s thin walls zealously. As I lay down to early the following morning. I walked due south Article | Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 04 2008 | 21
Photos by Fabrizio Frascaroli – Adventures of the Lonesome Traveller, Leg 8 along a horse trail. According to the new plan I’d novel, seemingly drawn from somewhere out of – perhaps in peace rather than distress I will find my gaze from my boots, where it had been nailed devised in the fruitless wait at the edge of the gla- this earth where not even a blade of grass found illumination. Nothing seems to work. I get stressed and vacant over those last two, terrible hours. It cier, I would keep skirting Langjökull along a fair- hospitality. I was filled with excitement and relief: and increasingly frustrated: however many kilo- is like this that I get the chance to see the rain- ly spectacular route, touching on the glacial lakes I may well have missed the thrill of a breathtaking metres I will have treaded in the end, the quest is bow. Difficult to guess when it rose, but it makes of Hvítárnes and Hagavatn. The food and supplies and hazardous traverse on ice, but at least I was evidently bound to fail. for the most spectacular one I have ever seen: an left would possibly be sufficient to take me all the bestowed the discovery of yet another jewel I had The Home Stretch immense arch, neat and vivid as if ink-printed on way to Geysir. ignored and overlooked until that moment. The The weather is sulky and uneasy and mirrors glossy paper, seeming to gather all the Highlands I pushed forth, crossed the milky depths of passage through Jarlhettur definitely constituted my own mood. Upcoming mundane concerns in the immensity of its embrace. The sky is clear- the river Hvítá on the car bridge, and made for the one of the best moments in my long march across – phone calls to make, mail to read, bills to pay ing up, making room for a newly-found brightness hills again. I ended up walking forty kilometres Iceland. – begin to surface. I had awaited and secretly sa- and translucent air. As precise as a spotlight, a that day, desperately waiting to run across some Now, I have come to the final stage. In a matter voured the moment of completing my feat for over slender ray of sun is descending and settles onto fresh water before being able to set up camp – my of hours I will reach Geysir, where the bittersweet a month, but the sad truth is that in the end it is go- Hekla, crowned in snow. I realise that even the own reserve had been exhausted late in the after- word “end” will be appended to a whole month of ing to suck. A deep sense of dismay kicks in – I just midges are gone. I stand for a while enjoying this noon. It had been an extremely dry summer and pilgrimages. I start with a swift visit to the peaceful cannot accept that it will actually end this way. I and think that after all, this is not such a bad end- I saw entire river systems erased from the local waters of Hagavatn, and the faint blue ice that sur- make up my mind and decide to approach Geysir ing. I know that in my memory it will all end here. geography, reduced to no more than green stripes rounds them. The sky is sullen and before long I from the hills. It is a slight detour, but perhaps it All later troubles and pleasures – an uncomfort- of moss in the ground, empty names on a map. I start to feel slightly drowsy. When I finally leave the will help to build the climax that I need and miss, able stumble across fenced farmland; the drench found water in the end – a stale pool amidst the place for the final stint, it is around midday. It would perhaps it will give me that little extra time to find of my boots and pants as I carelessly immerge rocks, dead flies floating on its surface. I had just appear to be a glorious moment, but all the positive the answers that still elude me. myself in the last river to wade; the mix of Rod started to filter it and fill my bottles, when a down- sensations I enjoyed on awakening appear to have It is at the very root of the slopes of Sandfell Stewart and Phil Collins hits delivered by obnox- pour of rain caught me unprepared. It was around faded into discomfort and malaise. The closer I get that the torment of the midges begins. Once start- ious speakers as I sip my first beer at Hotel Geysir midnight. to the conclusion of my journey, the less prepared ed, their assault leaves no relief, and I am rapidly – all later moments will soon be forgotten. In my for that moment I discover myself to be. led to absolute exasperation. I grunt and swear memory, it will all have ended right here and now, The Lack of Closure I have been in the wild for thirty-three days, repeatedly, cursing my own mindless masoch- in the very sappy and oleographic image of a se- I wake up early on the morning of August 10, caressed places of forgotten beauty, lived in un- ism that wants me on the top of another pointless rene homecoming under the lucid colours of an greeted by the same thought that accompanied interrupted proximity to dazzling landscapes, ex- hill. In the face of all thoughts of ecological ecu- arch in the sky. me to sleep: the last day of my trip has come. I perienced the awe and sometimes the horror of menism and cosmic unity, I feel open hostility all take a peek outside the hut, determined to enjoy Nature, and perhaps proven something to myself. around me; as a fitting response, I start whirling By Fabrizio Frascaroli this final stretch. I feel good. I had seen Jarlhet- I wonder what will remain of all this. According to my poles at flies, scrubs and stones alike, in a des- tur before, but I had never fully appreciated all its myth, people have reached unexpected profundi- perate and impotent outburst of frustration. I beg riveting and spectacular beauty. It is just enough ties in similar situations. Learnt to speak with birds, for rain, a good downpour of rain, just to cool this to turn one’s gaze away from Gullfoss and look in or more simply “found themselves.” In this sense, I disgusting heat down and make the flies retreat the opposite direction. Yesterday, my eyes were am rather displeased at the embarrassing lack of for a while. The rain comes – a few drops of it, opened to this when height and a better vantage answers I am coming home with. As for the chime- feeble and warm like a mocking line of piss from point first disclosed that terrific row of conic and rical achievement of a sense of cosmic solidarity the sky. The midges couldn’t care less. I am left as sharp hills that spike up grim and black against or reunion with nature, I cannot really claim to be hot and choking as before, only more irritated and the clear backdrop of the Langjökull Glacier. I doing any better. stinkingly humid. By now I really am pissed off. I walked several hours in the grey and utter solitude I only have a few hours left to work something spit at the bloody flies and hasten up, determined of Jarlhettur, north to south along gravel and sand, out, only a few hours to find answers and leave a at least to terminate this nightmare as quickly as glacial tongues, secret lakes, narrow passages in deeper footprint of meaning on these thirty-three possible. the rock, and elevations of twisted and threaten- days of walking. I slow down the pace, try to con- I have started the last, conclusive descent to- ing shapes. It was a scene out of a science-fiction trol the breathing and make it rhythmically regular wards Geysir when I finally convince myself to lift 22 | Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 04 2008 | Parting Shot
Rock festivals in small isolated towns can have serious side effects. Photo by GAS
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Services Swimming pools: weekdays 06:30- Bus Terminal and exhibitions. Trade Unions 22:30, weekends 08:00-20:30 although All major tourist spots in Reykjavík also Useful Numbers some may be open an hour longer. BSÍ, Vatnsmýrarvegur 10, offer brochures, maps and information The Icelandic Federation of The State owned ÁTVR liquor Tel: 562 1011, www.bsi.is for travellers. Labour, Sætún 1, Tel: 535 5600, Emergency number: 112 stores: Mon-Thu 11-18, Fri 11-19, Sat www.asi.is Police: 444 1000 11-18. Flybus Useful Information The Federation of State and Mu- Medical help: 1770 Banks in the centre are open Mon-Fri nicipal employees, Grettisgata 89, Dental emergency: 575 0505 09-16. Busses run daily from the BSÍ Bus Where to learn Icelandic as a Tel: 525 8300, www.bsrb.is AA: 551 2010 Terminal to Keflavík International foreign language The Association of Academics, Information: 118 Laundry Service Airport in connection with all depart- Borgartún 6, Tel: 581 2090, Telegrams: 146 ing flights. Departures daily from 04:45 Icelandic on the Internet, www.bhm.is HI Hostel, Sundlaugarvegur 34, to 15:00/16:30 (every 15 - 60 minutes). www.vefskoli.is Efling, Sætún 1, Tel: 510 7500, Tax Free Refund Tel: 553 8110, www.hostel.is For Flybus time schedule see: www. Mímir Continuing Education, www.efling.is Úðafoss, Vitastígur 13, flybus.is Skeifán 8, Tel: 580 1800, www.mimir.is The Commercial Workers’ Union, Iceland Refund, Tel: 551 2301, www.udafoss.is Námsflokkar Reykjavíkur, Kringlan 7, Tel: 510 1700, www.vr.is Aðalstræti 2, Tel: 564 6400 Samferda.net Fríkirkjuvegur 1, Tel: 551 2992 Union of Public Servants, Gret- www.icelandrefund.com Fjölmenning, Laugavegur 59, tisgata 89, Tel: 525 8340, www.sfr.is Getting Around A reasonable choice for the budget Tel: 511 1319, www.fjolmenning.is Post Office traveller. You log on to the website The Icelandic College of Engi- Useful Websites Public transport www.samferda.net, choose your neering and Technology, Höfða- Post offices are located around the destination and hopefully find a travel bakki 9, www.visitreykjavik.is (The official city as well as in the countryside. The only public transport system in buddy to share the cost. Tel: 577 1400, www.thi.is tourist website of Reykjavík) The downtown post office is at Reykjavík is the bus. Most busses run Iðnskólinn í Reykjavík, www.gayice.is (Information about Pósthússtræti 3-5. For a full list and every 20 minutes and price per fare is Cultural Centres and Skólavörðuholti, Tel: 552 6240, the gay scene in Iceland) info on opening hours visit www. 280 ISK for adults and 100 ISK for chil- Tourist Offices www.ir.is www.fjolmenningarsetur.is posturinn.is. Stamps are also sold in dren. Complete route map at: www. The University of Iceland – De- (The Multicultural Centre) bookstores, gas stations, some grocery bus.is. Tel: 540 2700 The Intercultural Centre partment of Continuing Education, www.hostel.is stores and tourist shops. Busses run from 07:00-24:00 on week- The Intercultural Centre throws oc- Dunhagi 7, Tel: 525 4924, (Hostel International in Iceland) days and 10:00-24:00 on weekends casional cultural events and confer- www.endurmenntun.is www.vinnumalastofnun.is Embassies and Consulates ences but its main purpose is to be an Language School Lingva, (Public employment services) Rent a bike information and counselling centre The University of Iceland, at Sturlu- www.gulalinan.is (The yellow United States, Laufásvegur 21, and serve as an advocate for the rights gata. Tel.: 561 0351, www.lingva.is pages) Tel: 562 9100 Borgarhjól, Hverfisgata 50, of immigrants in Iceland. www.leigulistinn.is (Rent a flat) United Kingdom, Laufásvegur 31, Tel: 551 5653, www.borgarhjol.net Hverfisgata 18, Tel: 530 9300 Religious movements www.ja.is Tel: 550 5100 HI Hostel, Sundlaugarvegur 34, www.ahus.is (Icelandic telephone directory) Russia, Garðastræti 33, Tel: 553 8110, www.hostel.is Icelandic Travel Market The national church in Iceland is the Tel: 551 5156 Tourist Information Centre, Bankastræti 2, Tel: 510 5700, Evangelical Lutheran Church. Masses Where to get … China, Víðimelur 29, Aðalstræti 2, Tel: 590 1550, www.kleif.is are generally held on Sundays at 11:00. Tel: 552 6751 www.visitreykjavik.is Information on day tours, accommoda- Service in English is at Hallgrímskirkja Work and residence permit: The tions, car rental and everything else every last Saturday each month, Directorate of Immigration, Skógarhlíð For a full list visit Ministry for Foreign Taxi you need to know when travelling in starting at 14:00. The Roman Catholic 6, Tel: 510 5400, www.utl.is. Affairs: www.mfa.is/diplomatic-mis- Iceland. Church also has masses in English and Insurance and benefits: The State sions/icelandic-missions/ Hreyfill-Bæjarleiðir, Iceland Visitor Polish. Social Security Institute, Laugavegur Tel: 553 3500 or 588 5522 Austurstræti 17, Tel: 511 2442, Other religious movements in Reyk- 114-116, Tel: 560 4400, www.tr.is Internet Access BSR, Tel: 561 0000 www.icelandvisitor.com javík are for example: Icelandic citizenship: Unless you For disabled travellers: A travel agency offering travelling The Muslim Association of Ice- come from a Nordic country, foreign Most coffeehouses have wireless Reykjavík Group Travel Service, package trips and custom-made tours land, Ármúli 38 citizens have to have had an unre- Internet access. Brunastaðir 3, Tel: 587 8030, www. as well as car rental, day tours and Ásatrú Association, Grandagarði 8 stricted residence permit in Iceland for Computers with Internet connections randburg.com/is/reykjavik_group_ accommodations for visitors. Bahá’í, Álfabakka 12 at least seven years in order to get an are available at: travel_service/ Tourist Information Centre The Church of Evangelism, Icelandic citizenship although some Ráðhúskaffi City Hall, Aðalstræti 2, Tel: 590 1550, Hlíðasmári 9 exceptions exist to that general rule. Tjarnargata 11 Car rentals www.visitreykjavik.is The Icelandic Buddhist Move- Applications are at the Ministry of BSÍ Bus Terminal, Offers information for tourists as well ment, Víghólastígur 21 Justice and Ecclesiastical Affairs, Vatnsmýrarvegur 10 Átak Car Rental, Smiðjuvegur 1, as providing internet access, book- Reykjavík Free Lutheran Church, Skuggasund, Tel: 545 9000, Ground Zero, Vallarstræti 10 Tel: 554 6040 ing service, a phone centre, money Fríkirkjuvegur 5 www.domsmalaraduneyti.is The Reykjavík City Library, ALP, Dugguvogur 10, Tel: 562 6060 exchange service, tax refund and Pentecostal Assembly, Hátún 2 Unemployment benefits: Director- Tryggvagata 15 Avis, Knarravogi 2, Tel: 591 4000 selling the Reykjavík Tourist Card. The Roman Catholic Church, ate of Labour, Public Employment The National and University Eurocar, Hjallahraun 9, Reykjavík Tourist Card gives admis- Hávallagata 14 Service, Tryggvagata 17, Tel: 515 4800, Library, Arngrímsgata 3 Tel: 565 3800 sion to city busses, various museums, Church of Jesus Christ of Latter- www.vinnumalastofnun.is Tourist Information Centre, A.G Car Rental, Tangarhöfði 8-12. Reykjavík swimming pools, The Family Day Saints, Ásabraut 2 Icelandic social security number Aðalstræti 2 Tel: 587 5544 Park and Reykjavík Zoo, The Culture Jehovah’s Witnesses, (kennitala): National Register, Bor- Icelandic Travel Market, Atlas Car Rental, Dalshraun 9, House and the National and University Sogavegur 71 gartún 30, Tel: 560 9800, Bankastræti 2 Tel: 565 3800 Library. Seventh-Day Adventists, www.hagstofa.is Berg Car Rental, Tangarhöfða 8, The Icelandic Tourist Board Suðurhlíð 36 Driver’s license: Applications at Opening hours Tel: 577 6050 Lækjargata 3, Tel: 535 5500, Zen Buddhism in Iceland, police stations.(Those who have a Hertz, Flugvallavegur, Tel: 522 4400 www.visiticeland.com Reykjavíkurvegur 31 foreign license don’t need an Icelandic Bars and clubs: According to regu- All information needed before travel- Independent Church, one for the first six months.) lations bars may be open until 01:00 Airlines ling in Iceland. Háteigsvegur 101 Tax card: Tax office, Laugavegur on weekdays and 05:30 on weekends. The Russian Orthodox Church in 166, Tel: 563 1100, www.rsk.is Shops: Mon-Fri 10-18, Sat 10-16, Sun Air Iceland, Reykjavíkurflugvöllur, Nordic House Iceland, Sólvallagata 10 Social Service: Information and closed. The shopping centres Kringlan Tel: 570 3030, www.flugfelag.is Sturlugata 5, Tel: 551 7030, The Cross, Hlíðasmári 5-7 service is provided by district service and Smáralind as well as most super- Air Vestmannaeyjar, Tel: 481 3255, www.nordice.is centres in Reykjavík. To locate the markets and tourist shops have longer www.eyjaflug.is The Nordic cultural centre organises service centre in your neighbourhood opening hours. various cultural events, conferences see: www.reykjavik.is
HOW TO DRIVE IN ICELAND A relatively large percentage of foreign tourists in Iceland travel around the country by car. Conditions in Iceland are in many ways unusual, and often quite unlike that which foreign drivers are accustomed. It is Services for therefore very important to find out how to drive in this country. We know that the landscapes are beautiful, which naturally draws the attention of driver away from the road. But in order to reach your destination safely, SENIOR you must keep your full attention on driving. HVÍTA HÚSIÐ/SÍA - 08-0390 CITIZENS ALCOHOL OR DRUGS WHAT ARE THE SPEED LIMITS?
It is against the law to operate a vehicle in The speed limit in urban areas is usually 50 There are various services available for senior citizens in Reykjavik: Iceland after having consumed alcohol or km/hr. Speed limit signs are usually not posted - Service flats drugs, and the punishment for violating unless it is other than 50 km/hr. The limit is often - Rest and nursing homes this law is rather stiff. Those driving a car 60 km/hr on thruways, but in residential areas it - Day care for the elderly - Home nursing and domestic services with more than the legal blood alcohol limit is usually only 30 km/hr. The main rule on - Home delivered meals and prepared meals of 0.5 per mill, have to pay a penalty and suffer suspension of highways is that gravel roads have a speed limit of 80 km/hr, and - Taxi services their drivers’s licence. The penalties for drunk driving are paved roads 90 km/hr. Signs indicate if other speed limits apply. - Social activities between 70,000 kr up to 140,000 kr. If driving under the For further information and advice, contact you nearest service center. There are 6 of influence of alcohol or drugs, you will not be entitled to The penalty for driving at 30 km over the speed limit is 45,000 kr. them around town! Advisory service is free of charge. compensation in case of an accident and will have to bear The penalty for speeding can be up to 110,000 kr, or even more, the total cost of the accident yourself. This can amount to plus suspension of the driver’s licence. tel: 4 11 11 11 www.reykjavik.is several million Icelandic krona. Tryggvagata 17 101 Reykjavík Tel: 411 9000 Further information on www.drive.is www.velferdarsvid.is grapevine.is
ISSUE FOUR: APRIL 04 - MAY 08 YOUR FREE COPY
Stuffed with stuff
Ísafjörður’s population doubles during the Easter weekend and the festival has become so popular that it was impossible for us to get accommodation. Aldrei fór ég suður proves to be successful, yet again. Page 12
I didn’t know what to expect when I arrived, but I was not prepared for this. Their core-ridden deathgrind was as fast and heavy as anything I’ve wit- nessed recently Misery Index rocked Organ Page 31
“I went on a Greyhound bus trip to Minnesota in 1982 to do research. It was too exotic for me to write about unless I experienced it, so I bought a ticket with the advance for my first book. I lived in a trailer park.” Author Einar Kárason talks about the road Page 32
“Lars Von Trier’s name isn’t Von Trier at all. If he can do it, so can I!” Filmmaker Olaf de Fleur defends his name. Page 34
The final results of the night reflected a distinct and calculated diplomatic quality. The Icelandic Battle of the Bands is con- cluded. Page 3
I have started the last, con- clusive descent towards Geysir when I finally convince myself to lift my gaze from my boots, where it had been nailed and vacant over those last two, terrible hours. It is like this that I get the chance to see the rainbow. The Lonesome Traveller finds piece at last. Page 36 Info | Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 04 2008 info. Music, Art, Films and Events Listings · Eating, Drinking and Shopping · Map plus Green Light Film Festival · Art Students’ Graduate Exhibition · Low at NASA
above Photographer Spessi exhibits leftovers at Gallery 100° (B14) B2 | Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 04 2008 | Listings iceland’s best? independent music!
fréttablaðið borko- celebrating life **** Art Retrospective of Rare Art
Entitled ‘The Art Lovers Gallery: The but the gallery was located in the same rates this important phase in the story Nest of Bad Paintings’, the exhibition building that today houses the ASÍ Art of the house as well as the story of Ice- opening at the ASÍ Art Museum on Museum. The contemporary gallery landic art. April 5 focuses on art in Reykjavík in played a significant role in the art life the 50s. The title is a reference to what of that time by exhibiting “new” art by ASÍ Art Museum, Freyjugata 41 was written about The Art Lovers Gal- young artists that often lead to heated April 5 – May 4 lery in a newspaper article in the 50s, discussions. The exhibition commemo-
If you would like to be included in the Classick Rock Bjarni dv Grapevine listings, free of charge, Ármúli 5 Wed Apr 30: Dalton concert / DJ Bjarni contact the Grapevine by email at Sat Apr 12: Blues concert with the Thu May 1: Corona electronic night [email protected]. Blues Academy. Starts at 22:00 with DJ Paul Wayne morðingjarnir-***** áfram ísland! Gamla bókasafnið Kaffibarinn Mjósund 1, Hafnarfjörður Bergstaðastræti 1 Sat Apr 5: We Made God release Fri Apr 4: DJ Jack Schidt Music concert. Also performing are Gordon Sat Apr 5: DJ Maggi Legó Riots. Starts at 20:00 Fri Apr 11: DJ Magic Thu Apr 10: Concert: Abúla, Þrjú hjól Sat Apr 12: Alfons X vs. Terrordisco 12 Tónar undir baldri and Fjölnir. Starts at 20:00 Thu Apr 17: DJ Benni B-Ruff Skólavörðustígur 15 Thu Apr 17: Concert: Unchacity Fri Apr 18: DJ CasaNova Fri Apr 4: Concert: Violin/electronics ***is this correct? (I can’t find them Wed Apr 23: DJ Magic act The Airelectric celebrates the re- listed)*** + guests. Starts at 20:00 Fri Apr 25: DJ Nuno LX lease of the debut ‘X.I.’. Starts at 17:00 Háskólabíó Sat Apr 26: DJ Terrordisco Fri Apr 11: Concert: Númer Núll At Hagatorg Wed Apr 30: DJ Lazer celebrates the release of ‘Lykill að Fri Apr 4: The Icelandic Symphony Thu May 1: DJ Benni B-Ruff skýrlífsbelti’. Starts at 17:00 Orchestra: Concert for young people. Nasa 7-9-13 Tickets at www.midi.is by Austurvöllur Klapparstígur 25-27 Thu Apr 10: The Icelandic Symphony Fri Apr 4: Concert: Low (US) and Skak- Every Friday and Saturday: DJ Skinny T Orchestra: A Late Masterpiece. Tickets kamanage. Tickets at www.midi.is from New York at www.midi.is Sat Apr 5: Exos.is Party - sleepdrunkfréttablaðið seasons Thu Apr 10: Concert: Singer Anna Sun Apr 13: Concert: Rufus Wainwright Fri Apr 11: Rás 2 and Monitor present: María. Starts at 21:00 (CA). Tickets at www.midi.is Dr. Spock, Sign and Benny Crespos hjaltalín Sat Apr 12: DJ Skinny T with African Thu Apr 17: The Icelandic Symphony Gang. Starts at 21:00. Tickets at www. ***** hip-hop band Orchestra: Songs of the Silver Screen. midi.is Austurbær Tickets at www.midi.is Thu Apr 17: TV show Þráður presents: Snorrabraut 37 Sat Apr 19: The Icelandic Symphony Ultra Mega Technobandið Stefán, Sign Wed Apr 30: Concert: Dúndurfréttir Orchestra: Music From the Movies and Brain Police. Tickets at www. with Eiríkur Hauksson and Ken Hens- – Family Concert. Tickets at www. midi.is ley. Tickets at www.midi.is midi.is Fri Apr 18: TV show Þráður presents: Bar 11 Thu May 8: The Icelandic Symphony Á móti sól, Steedlord and DJ President Laugavegur 11 Orchestra: A Birthday Celebration for Bongo. Tickets at www.midi.is Fri Apr 4: DJ Óli Dóri PPP. Tickets at www.midi.is Sat Apr 19: TV show Þráður presents: Sat Apr 5: Concert: Thingtak and Hljómalind Hafdís Huld, XXX Rottweiler and Endless Dark. Starts at 23:00 / DJ Gulli Laugavegur 23 Sprengjuhöllin. Tickets at www.midi.is Ósóma Sat Apr 5: Tentacles of Doom release Wed Apr 23: Jón Jónsson presents: DJ Fri Apr 11: DJ Gulli Ósóma concert. Also performing are Brat Carl Cox (UK) Sat Apr 12: DJ Matti X Pack, Viðurstyggð, Mock, Línus, Snorri Organ Fri Apr 18: DJ Óli Dóri and Viktor. Starts at 19:00 Hafnarstræti 1-3 Sat Apr 19: DJ Gulli Ósóma Hressó Fri Apr 4: Pop-Quiz at 18:00 / Concert: Fri Apr 25: DJ Gulli Ósóma Austurstræti 20 Mínus, Skátar, Celestine and DJ Frosti morgunblaðið Sat Apr 26: DJ Óli Dóri Fri Apr 4: Bonsom jazzband / DJ Maggi Gringo. Tickets at www.midi.is Fri May 2: DJ Matti X Sat Apr 5: Tepokinn jazzband / DJ Jón Sat Apr 5: Gay Dance hellvar - bat out of hellvar Sat May 3: DJ Biggi Maus Gestur Tue Apr 8: Alice in Chains tribute **** Fri May 9: DJ Óli Dóri Thu Apr 10: Corona electronic night concert Sat May 10: DJ Biggi Maus with DJ Paul Wayne Wed Apr 9: Alice in Chains tribute Barinn Fri Apr 11: Dalton concert / DJ Bjarni Concert Laugavegur 22 Sat Apr 12: Troubadours Alexander Thu Apr 10: Concert: Mood + guests Fri Apr 4: GetRvk Music Festival and Örvar / DJ Maggi Fri Apr 11: Pop-Quiz at 18:00 Sat Apr 5: GetRvk Music Festival Thu Apr 17: Corona electronic night Sat Apr 12: Concert: Yunioshi (UK) check out our webstore... Brons with DJ Towels with Bloodgroup (IS). Tickets at www. Pósthússtræti 9 Fri Apr 18: Troubadours Alexander and midi.is Every Thursday: DJ Lucky Örvar / DJ Maggi Wed Apr 16: Concert: Lights on the Every Friday: House DJs Sat Apr 19: Dísel concert / DJ Maggi Highway www.kimirecords.net Every Saturday: DJ Gauti Thu Apr 24: Corona electronic night Thu Apr 17: Monitor concert Café Paris with DJ Paul Wayne Fri Apr 18: Pop-Quiz at 18:00 kimirecords Austurstræti 14 Fri Apr 25: Dísel concert / DJ Maggi Wed Apr 23: Grapevine and Organ Fri and Sat: DJ A. Ramirez Sat Apr 26: Tepokinn jazzband / DJ present: Kimono, Skátar, Swords of Listings | Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 04 2008 | B3 by the sea and a delicios lobster at Fjörubordid in Stokkseyri Spör ehf. -Spör Ragnheiður ehf. Ágústsdóttir
Music Low at NASA
To follow the release of their eight mailst melodies, often political lyrics 22:00, tickets cost 2.200 ISK and can be full-lenght album, ‘Drums and Guns’, and intimate live performance no true bought at www.midi.is. released last year under the legendary fan should miss out on. Seattle based label Sub Pop, American Opening act of the night is the jolly in- NASA, by Austurvöllur trio Low will play club NASA tonight, die-pop group Skakkamanage, which Friday, April 4 April 4. Formed in Minnisota in 1993, resently returned home from a suc- Low is known for their slow and mini- essful tour in Japan. Concerts start at
Chaos, Maggi Kjartans and DJ Bobby www.101hotel.is/101hotel/101gallery/ Mar 8 – April 5 Breiðholt Apr 8 – May 24 Nudity Thu Apr 24: Weirdcore Night Exhibition by Jón Sæmundur Photographs by Anna Ellen Douglas. Fri Apr 25: Pop-Quiz at 18:00 Auðarson Gallery 100º Wed Apr 30: Deep Jimi & The Zep Artótek Bæjarháls 1 Creams Tryggvagata 15 www.or.is/Forsida/Gallery100/ Thu May 1: Monitor concert Mon 10–21, Tue–Thu 10–19, Fri 11–19, Open weekdays from 08:30 – 16:00 Sat May 3: Kraftwerk Orange night Sat and Sun 13–17 Current Exhibition: Wed May 7: Concert: The Way Down www.sim.is/Index/Islenska/Artotek Chicken Fajitas, Google Style, Q-Bar ASÍ Art Museum Mexican Corn soup and Chocolate “You haven't been in Iceland Ingólfsstræti 3 Freyjugata 41 Ice cream Fri Apr 4: Blues concert from 22:00 to Tue–Sun 13–17 Spessi Photographic exhibition if you haven't been to us“ 24:00 featuring Blúsbandið Köttur, Elín Free Entrance Gallery StartArt Ey and Johnny And The Rest / DJs Ási Apr 5 – May 4 Laugavegur 12b Don’t miss it! and Ýr from midnight The Art Lovers Gallery: The Nest of Tue-Sat 13 – 17 Sat Apr 5: Hip Hop Theme Night, cour- Bad Paintings Free entrance tesy of GetRvk.com. Hip Hop bands Art in Reykjavik of the fifties www.startart.is from 22:00 till midnight. / DJ Gísli The Einar Jónsson Museum Apr 3 – Apr 30 Galdur with Leibbi Jazz on trumpet Eiríksgata Exhibitions by Mary Ellen Croteau, from midnight Tue–Sun 14–17 Rafn Hafnfjörð, Nína Gautadóttir and Tue April 8: Open Mic with Elín Ey and www.skulptur.is Aðalheiður Skarphéðinsdóttir. Myrra Musician Permanent exhibition: May 1 – May 13 Wed Apr 9: Gay Date Night with hosts The work of sculptor Einar Jónsson. Filmmaker Tjörvi Guðmundsson Haffi Haff and Birna Sif. One boy will The Culture House exhibits photographs and videos of pick another boy to go on a date with. Hverfisgata 15 street children in Ukraine Special offers on beers. Open daily 11–17 Gallery Ágúst Fri Apr 11: DJ Manny www.thjodmenning.is Baldursgata 12 Sat Apr 12: DJ Yamaho Permanent exhibitions: Wed–Sat 12–17 Tue Apr 15: Open Mic with Elín Ey and Medieval Manuscripts; The National www.galleriagust.is Myrra Museum – as it was; The Library Mar 1 – Apr 5 Wed Apr 16: Gay Date Night with hosts Room; The Road to Zion; Berlin Víma / Intoxication Birna Sif and Haffi Haff. This time a Excursion. Sara Björnsdóttir solo exhibition. The lucky girl will pick another girl to go Current exhibitions: exhibition consists of photographs and on a date with. Surtsey – Genesis video. Fri Apr 18: 80s night with Kitty Von The exhibition traces the emergence Gallery Fold Viking feasts every night Sometime and Diva De La Rosa and evolution of the island Surtsey Rauðarárstígur 14–16 Sat Apr 19: House and Disco night with until the present day and predicts Mon–Fri 10–18 - live entertainment DJ Jónfrí its geographical and ecological Sat 11–16 Tue Apr 22: Open Mic with Elin Ey and development over the next 120 years. Sun 14–16 Myrra Musician Journey’s End - Jónas Hallgrímsson www.myndlist.is • Hotel Wed Apr 23: Straight Date Night with 1807-1845 April 27 • Restaurants hosts Haffi Haff and Birna Sif. Now it’s This exhibition focuses on renowned Auction of the museum’s art • Souveniers both girls and boys. All straight. / DJ Icelandic scientist and poet Jónas collection. The auction takes place at Anna Brá from Midnight. Hallgrímsson and is a celebration of Radisson SAS Hotel Saga at Hagatorg Fri Apr 25: DJ Unnur Andrea (Cocktail his 200th birthday. and starts at 19:00. Vomit DJ Set) The Nation and Nature May 3 Sat Apr 26: DJ Kári A nature film by filmmaker Páll Opening: Artist Pétur Gautur exhibits Tue Apr 29: Open Mic with Elín Ey and Steingrímsson. paintings. Myrra Musicians Exhibition Series Gallery Kling & Bang Wed Apr 30: DJ Manny Húbert Nói displays paintings of Hverfisgata 42 landscapes and cityscapes at the Thursday - Sunday from 14-18 Culture Shop. Free admission Dwarf Gallery this.is/klingogbang/ For booking and Art Grundarstígur 21 Mar 8 – Apr 5 further information: Opening Hours: Fri and Sat 18–20 The Mirror has no Imagination Tel.: +354 565-1213 www.this.is/birta Kristján Björn Þórðarson exhibition. www.vikingvillage.is 101 Gallery Fotografí This is the first exhibition at Gallery [email protected] Hverfisgata 18 Skólavörðustígur 4a Kling & Bang’s new location on Strandgata 55 Hafnarfjordur Thu.–Sat. 14–17 and by appointment www.fotografi.is Hverfisgata 42. Everyone is welcome to B4 | Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 04 2008 | Listings
Upcoming concerts
a late masterpiece THURSDAY, APRIL 10TH @ 7:30 PM Conductor ::: Vladimir Ashkenazy Soloists ::: Joan Rodgers Sesselja Kristjánsdóttir, Mark Tucker Ólafur Kjartan Sigurðarson The Reykjavík Opera Choir Choir master ::: Garðar Cortes Ludwig van Beethoven ::: Missa solemnis Art songs of the THURSDAY, APRIL 17TH @ 7:30 PM silver screen Conductor ::: John Wilson Soloist ::: Kim Criswell Chicken Fajitas, Google Style A homage to the great divas of the movies Reykjavík Energys cafeteria is the sub- chicken fajitas Google style, Mexican in Spessi’s work allows for surprisingly music from the movies SATURDAY, APRIL 19TH @ 14 PM ject of a new series by photographer corn soup and chocolate ice cream. sharp insight into the human condition - a family concert Conductor ::: John Wilson Spessi, now on display at Gallery 100°. The series echoes Spessi’s exhibi- and raises questions about the nature Soloist ::: Kim Criswell The series contains nearly two hun- tion from last year, where he showed of photography. a birthday celebration dred photos, showing the empty plates workers from the Kárahnjúkar con- THURSDAY, MAY 8TH @ 7:30 PM left by the staff of Reykjavík Energy af- struction site dining in the cafeteria. Gallerý 100°, Bæjarháls 1, for ppp Conductor ::: Rumon Gamba Soloist ::: Danjulo Ishizaka ter lunch in the cafeteria. On the menu: As usual, the unusual subject matter Until May 2 Gustav Mahler: Symphony nr. 5 Robert Shumann: Cello Concerto celebrate the opening on March 8. The Wed, Fri–Sun 13–17 Tue–Sun 12–17 tickets sold at www.sinfonia.is party starts at 17:00. Thu 13–22 www.nordice.is/ or tel. 545 2500 Apr 11 – Apr 13 www.nylo.is Mar 8 – Apr 6 All concerts take place in Háskólabíó. Performances and concerts by various Feb 2 – May 2 Nordic Thoughts from Mexico artists. Curators: Snorri Ásmundsson Hildigunnur Birgisdóttir exhibition Trine Ellitsgaard exhibition fl group is the main sponsor of the iceland symphony orchestra and the Kling & Bang team The Lost Horse Gallery The Numismatic Museum WWW.SINFONIA.IS Gallery Turpentine Skólastræti 1 Kalkofnsvegur 1 Ingólfsstræti 5 Open on weekends from 13- 19 and by Open Mon–Fri 13:30–15:30. Tue–Fri 12–18 appointment on weekdays. Free admission. '(#'#¶'*#*#'%%- Sat 11–16 www.this.is/subaqua/losthorse.html Permanent exhibition: www.turpentine.is Mar 29 The Central Bank of Iceland and the Mar 28 – Apr 12 Opening: Paul LaJeunesse exhibition. National Museum of Iceland jointly Helgi Þorgils Friðsjónsson exhibition LaJeunesse is an American artist who operate a numismatic collection Gel Gallery primarily works with painting and consisting of Icelandic notes and Hverfisgata 37 realism. He has studied landscape coins. Mon–Fri 13–18 painting and exhibits a collection of Reykjavík 871 +/- 2 Sat 11–16 pen and ink drawings of Icelandic Aðalstræti 16 Sun 14–16 landscapes. Open daily 10–17 www.myspace.com/gallerigel The National Film Archive of Permanent exhibition: Apr 26 – May 29 Iceland The Settlement Exhibition Björn Árnason photographic Hvaleyrarbraut 13 Reykjavík Art Gallery exhibition. Opening at 20:00 www.kvikmyndasafn.is Skúlagata 28 Gerðuberg Cultural Centre The National Film Archive of Iceland Open from Tuesday through Sunday :^cVg;Vajg>c\a[hhdc Gerðuberg 3–5 screens old movie classics and 14-18 HI6Á>G$EA68:H Mon–Thu 11–17 masterpieces twice a week for 500 ISK Current exhibition: Wed 11–21 per ticket. Magnús Tómasson, Pétur Már ÖG96<7Ó@$;GDB6K>HJ6A9>6GN&.--¶'%%- Thu–Fri 11–17 The National Gallery of Iceland Pétursson and Tolli Sat–Sun 13–16 Fríkirkjuvegur Reykjavík Art Museum www.gerduberg.is Tue–Sun 11–17 – Ásmundur Sveinsson Sculpture Mar 4 – Apr 20 Free Entrance Museum A Date with Collectors III www.listasafn.is Sigtún Ign\\kV\ViV&*!+i][addgÆ&%&GZn`_Vk^`ÆIZa#*+(&,.%Æe]didbjhZjb5gZn`_Vk^`#^hÆlll#e]didbjhZjb#^h All of the pieces exhibited are Feb 23 – May 1 Open daily 10–16 DeZc^c\]djgh&'¶&.bdc¶[g^!&(¶&,lZZ`ZcYhÆ69B>HH>DC;G:: connected with music in one way or La Duré Free entrance. another Group exhibition featuring www.listasafnreykjavikur.is Mar 4 – Apr 20 Emmanuelle Antille, Gabríela Current exhibition: A Vision of Seven Lands Friðriksdóttir and Guðný Rósa The Shape of Line Artist María Loftsdóttir exhibits Ingimarsdóttir. The artists pay tribute A new retrospective of works by watercolour paintings to duration, the inner experience Ásmundur Sveinsson. The exhibition May 3 – Sep 7 of time, in their wide-ranging and focuses on abstract works from 1945 Between Mountain and Shore dissimilar approaches. onwards. Exhibition of Landscape paintings The National Museum Reykjavík Art Museum from popular-artist couple Suðurgata 41 – Hafnarhús Tilveran Restaurant in the heart of Hafnar örður Michael Guðvarðarson and Ósk Open daily 10–17 Tryggvagata 17 Fresh sh every day in a iendly atmosphere. Guðmundsdóttir natmus.is/ Open daily 10–17 and on Thursdays May 3 – Sep 7 Permanent exhibition: from 10 - 22 Magical Beings From the Folk Tales The Making of a Nation Free Entrance. of Iceland Feb 8 – May 4 Feb 7 – Apr 27 Drawings from Jón Baldur Hlíðberg Two-thousand-and-eight Superheroes Hitt Húsið - Gallery Tukt Photographer Vera Pálsdóttir exhibits Erró exhibition curated by Ólöf K. Pósthússtræti 3-5 fashion photographs Sigurðardóttir. The exhibition focuses www.hitthusid.is Feb 8 – May 4 on Erró’s use of heroes from the world i8 Gallery Exhibition based on Æsa of the comic strip Klapparstígur 33 Sigurjónsdóttir’s research on Icelandic Feb 7 – Apr 27 Tue–Fri 11–17 fashion from 1860 to 1960. Silence Sat 13–17 and by appointment Oct 20 – May 2 Curator JBK Ransu has commissioned www.i8.is Ancient carved piney-boards found four well-known visual artists, Apr 10 – May 3 around the farm Bjarnastaðahlíð in Finnbogi Pétursson, Finnur Arnar Birgir Andrésson exhibition Skagafjörður. Arnarson, Haraldur Jónsson and Tilveran Restaurant – tel. (+354) 565-5250 – Linnetstíg 1, Hafnar örður Living Art Museum The Nordic House Harpa Árnadóttir, to create an Laugavegur 26 Sturlugata 5 exhibition which revolves around Listings | Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 04 2008 | B5 In cooperation with: Photo: Ágúst G. Atlason G. Ágúst Photo: Art Master’s program in Coastal Art Students’ Graduate Exhibition and Marine Management
On April 19, students graduating from The exhibition is open until May 1, and be announced at a later date. For more The master’s program in Coastal and Marine Man- the Iceland Academy of the Arts take entrance is free. info see: www.lhi.is agement prepares students to engage with one of over the Reykjavík Art Museum at Kjar- As usual, the fashion-design stu- the most compelling and important subjects today: valsstaðir. More than 60 students from dents will show off their creations with Reykjavík Art Museum at Kjarvalsstaðir natural resource management and utilization. the visual arts, design and architecture a grand fashion show the day before April 19 – May 1 departments will display their final the opening, on April 18. The exact Students examine the management methods used projects, a result of three years of study. location is yet to be decided and will by the world’s coastal nations, such as integrated coastal and marine management, which aim at maintaining the sustainability of coastal communi- silence. Photographs by Guðmundur W Brákarbraut 1–15, Borgarnes ties and resources. Mar 13 – Apr 27 Vilhjálmssom Opening hours: May to Sep 10–20; Sep Mutes – Speechless Kernels Feb 23 – May 25 to May 11–17. Photographic exhibition by Sigurður Places: From a Visual Diary 1988-2008 www.landnam.is Further information: www.hsvest.is Guðmundsson Photographic Exhibition by Einar Falur Permanent exhibitions: Mar 13 – Apr 27 Ingólfsson. The Settlement of Iceland: The Saga of Applications deadline: June 5th 2008 D8: Exhibition by Gunnhildur Apr 9 – Jun 3 Egill Skalla-Grímsson Hauksdóttir Photographs by Jirka Ernest Current theatre productions: Reykjavík Art Museum Sigurjón Ólafsson Museum Brák – a monologue by Brynhildur – Kjarvalsstaðir Laugarnestangi 70 Gudjonsdottir Flókagata Open Tue–Sun 14–17 Mr. Skallagrímsson – a monologue by Open Daily 10–17 Permanent exhibition: Benedikt Erlingsson Free entrance. Works of sculptor Sigurjón Ólafsson. Suðsuðvestur Jan 5 – Apr 6 Hafnargata 22, Keflavík Jóhannes Sveinsson Kjarval – From the Thu.–Fri. 16–18 Museum’s Collection. Outside Reykjavík Sat.–Sun. 14–17 Jan 26 – Apr 6 www.sudsudvestur.is Selected sculptures by Nína Hafnarborg Apr 5 – May 4 Sæmundson (1892-1965) from the Strandgata 34, Hafnarfjörður Darri Lorenzen exhibition )3(*2 Reykjavik Art Museum’s collection. Mon.–Sun. 11–17 Vatnasafn / Library of Water 8<,,9*3<) Jan 26. – Apr 6 www.hafnarborg.is Bókhlöðustígur 17, 340 Stykkishólmur Mikines – A Retrospective Mar 8 – Apr 21 www.libraryofwater.is A retrospective of the work of the Anniversary Celebration Open daily from 11–17. distinguished Faroese painter Samuel The people of Hafnarfjordur celebrate Permanent exhibition: Joensen-Mikines. the town’s 100 -year anniversary with Roni Horn installation. She has Sep. 8 – Apr 6 an exhibition of works by artists replaced stacks of books with glass Architecture at Eyelevel. Curated by working or living in Hafnarfjörður. columns containing water gathered Guja Dögg Hauksdóttir. Entrance is free. from Iceland’s glaciers and glacial Apr 19 – May 1 Apr 26 – May 25 rivers. Iceland Academy of the Arts – Final Exhibition by sculptor Einar Már Sandgerði Museum Thesis Exhibitions 2008 Guðvarðarson, his sister Jóna Gerðavegur 1, Sandgerði. Students from the visual arts, design, Guðvarðardóttir, ceramic artist, and Jónas Viðar Gallery 3POFWL|YZ!G and architectural departments at the her daughter Hildur Ýr Jónsdóttir, Kaupvangsstræti 12, Akureyri Iceland Academy of the Arts exhibit jeweller. Fri.–Sat. 13–18 their graduation projects. Apr 4 www.jvs.is/jvgallery.htm Reykjavík Maritime Museum Móðurást: Release concert celebrating Akureyri Art Museum Grandagarður 8 Anna Jónsdóttir and Sigríður Freyja Kaupvangsstræti 12, Akureyri www.sjominjasafn.is Ingimarsdóttir’s new album. Tue.–Sun. 12–17 Closed for renovations. Gljúfrasteinn www.listasafn.akureyri.is Reykjavík Museum – Halldór Laxness museum Current exhibition: (Árbæjarsafn) 270 Mosfellsbær Bye Bye Iceland Kistuhylur 4 Open daily except Mondays from A project involving 23 artists working Open daily from 10–17 10 –17. with the concept: “outdated 19th www.arbaejarsafn.is Kópavogur Art Museum and 20th-century ideology on Current exhibitions: – Gerðarsafn Iceland”. Artists include Ásmundur Building Techniques in Reykjavík Hamraborg, Kópavogur Ásmundsson, Erling Þ. V. Klingenberg, 1840-1940; Disco and Punk – Different Open daily 11–17 except Mondays Hallgrímur Helgason, Hlynur Hallsson, cultures?; Christmas is Coming; www.gerdarsafn.is Inga Svala Þórðardóttir & Wu Shan History of Reykjavík – from farm to Mar 29 – Apr 11 Zhuan, city; Memories of a House; Living and Gerður Helgadóttir anniversary Kolbeinn Hugi Höskuldsson, Ólöf Playing exhibition Nordal, Rúrí, Steingrímur Eyfjörð, The Reykjavík Museum of The Icelandic Museum Unnar Örn Auðarson & Huginn Þór Photography of Design and Applied Art Arason and Þórdís Alda Sigurðardóttir. Grófarhús, Tryggvagata 15, 6th floor Lyngás 7–9, 121 Garðabær DaLí Gallery Weekdays 12–19 Opening hours: Tues.–Fri. 14–18; Sat. Brekkugata 9, Akureyri Sat–Sun 13–17 and Sun. 16–18. Mon.–Sat. 14–18 Free entrance www.mudesa.org www.daligallery.blogspot.com www.ljosmyndasafnreykjavikur.is Exhibitions devoted to Icelandic GalleriBOX Feb 14 – Apr 8 design. Kaupvangstræti 10, Akureyri Memories in Photographs The Icelandic Settlement Centre www.galleribox.blogspot.com B6 | Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 04 2008 | Listings
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Film Green Light Film Fest
Movie Days, organised by Green Light ing flick ‘Surfwise’, Oscar nominated Films, will take place from April 11 to war-film ‘Beaufort’ from Israel and the 24. The packed programme features 12 documentary ‘King of Kong’, which fol- interesting and controversial films from lows a nerdy science teacher as he tries across the globe, screened daily at Reg- to beat the Guinness World Record in nboginn movie theatre. Opening film Donkey Kong. of the festival is the Brasilian action- Tickets and special festival pass- drama ‘Tropa de Elite’, which centres es can be bought at www.midi.is. For on a special military-police force bat- more info see www.graenaljosid.is tling drug dealers on the streets of Rio. The list also includes ‘Living Luminar- Regnboginn, April 11 - 24 ies’, which deals with the serious busi- ness of happiness, the comical surf-
Kunstraum Wohnraum In Bruges (Home gallery) Regnboginn Ásabyggð 2, akureyri The Orphanage Open by appointment. Tel.: 462 3744 Regnboginn Mar 16 – Jun 22 In the Valley of Elah (April 4) Ragnar Kjartansson exhibition Doomsday (April 4) Skaftfell Definitely, Maybe (April 4) LLL#
Iron Man (Maywriter 2)Halld r Laxness, www.gljufrasteinn.is Red Belt (MayNobel Prize 5) for literature 1955. What Happens20 min from in Reykjavik Vegas city (Maycentre 9) On the way to Thingvellir National Park The Hunting Party (May 9) Tel. + 354 586 8066 / www.gljufrasteinn.is Films Green Light Film Festival April 11 to 24 Tropa De Elite (Brasil) Vantage Point King of Kong (USA) Smárabíó, Regnboginn Sand and Sorrow (USA) The Spiderwick Chronicles The Band’s Visit (Israel/France/USA) Smárabíó, Háskólabíó, Laugarásbíó, Beufort (Israel) Sambíóin Selfoss Bella (USA) Horton Surfwise (USA) Smárabíó, Regnboginn The Age of Ignorance (Canada) Whale Watching Shutter Caramel (Lebanon) Smárabíó, Sambíóin Selfoss Living Luminaries (USA) Semi-Pro Lake of Fire (USA) from Reykjavík Smárabíó, Laugarásbíó, Sambíóin War / Dance (USA) Keflavík Screenings at Regnboginn movie the- Take part in an adventure at sea The Other Boleyn Girl atre. For more info see graenaljosid.is with an unforgettable trip into the Smárabíó, Háskólabíó world of whales and sea birds. 10,000 BC Conveniently located in Reykjavík’s Sambíóin Álfabakki, Sambíóin Selfoss Movie Theatres Stóra Planið Old harbour, a three hour tour can Sambíóin Álfabakki, Sambíóin Kring- Regnboginn, Hverfisgata 54 bring you up close to whales in lan, Sambíóin Keflavík, Sambíóin 101 Reykjavík, Tel. 551-9000 their natural habitat. Akureyri, Sambíóin Selfoss Háskólabíó, Hagatorg
Step Up 2 107 Reykjavík, Tel. 525-5400 Free entry to the Information Sambíóin Álfabakki Laugarásbíó, Laugarás Lars and the Real Girl 104 Reykjavík, Tel. 565-0118 Centre for our passengers. Sambíóin Álfabakki, Sambíóin Selfoss Smárabíó, Smáralind The Bucket List 201 Kópavogur, Tel. 564-0000 Sambíóin Álfabakki Sambíóin, Álfabakki 8 Call us on 555 3565 The Kite Runner 109 Reykjavík, Tel. 575-8900 or visit www.elding.is Háskólabíó Sambíóin, Kringlan 4-12 The Eye 103 Reykjavík, Tel. 575-8900 Háskólabíó, Laugarásbíó, Sambíóin Sambíóin Akureyri, Ráðhústorg Keflavík 600 Akureyri, Tel. 461-4666 Juno Nýja-Bíó, Hafnargata 33 Sambíóin Kringlan, Sambíóin Keflavík 230 Reykjanesbær, Tel. 421-1170
PIPAR • SÍA • 80693 Rambo Selfossbíó, Eyrarvegur 2 Laugarásbíó 800 Selfoss, Tel. 482-3007 Listings | Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 04 2008 | B7 Taste e ...with a little bit of spanish thrown in! There are over 70 courses on our Tapas menu so drop by and indulge in our excellent Ieland food in the greatest of atmosphere.
Great Tapas from kr. 550.-
Music Fashion at the Pharmacy
Tonight, April 4, 10 students that make with a party, featuring glamrock five- up the second year in fashion design piece Grasrætur and DJ duo Ta!Ta!Ta!, at the Iceland Academy of the Arts who will make sure everyone will will celebrate springtime with a grand dance the night away. Fashion, music fashions show at the newly renovated and cocktails, a perfect Friday night downtown club Apótekið. This is an combo. annual event, perfect for the public to view current designs and future fash- Apótekið, Austurstræti 16 ion trends while sampling some drinks Friday, April 4 at the bar. The show starts at 21:00 and ends
Bruns-Berentelg (HafenCity, Ham- burg), Kjetil Thorsen (Snøhetta, Oslo), Events Ólafur Elíasson (Berlin, Copenhagen), Ute Meta Bauer (MIT, Cambridge) and Vito Acconci (New York). The confer- Faroese Culture Festival ence takes place at The Nordic House April 5 on April 25 from 18:00 - 20:30 and May On April 5, a Faroese culture festival 10 from 10:00 – 17:00. For more info see: Iceland’s very first Tapas-Bar takes place at the Reykjavík Art Muse- www.cia.is/news/conference.htm Tel:551-2344 • Email:[email protected] um (Kjarvalsstaðir) from 14:00 – 18:00. The Nordic House, Sturlugata 5 Address: Vesturgata 3b • 101 Reykjavík The festival is connected to the exhi- Equality and Diversity bition by Faroese landscape painter April 25 Mikines, which closes on April 6. The A symposium on equality and diversity programme includes a walk through will take place at the University of Ice- Listasafn Reykjavíkur Mikines’s exhibition with art histo- land on April 25 from 13:00 – 17:00. The Reykjavik Art Museum rian Aðalsteinn Ingólfsson, a concert symposium is hosted by the University by Faroese trio Katrín Petersen, Leivi of Iceland’s Equal Rights Committee, Thomsen and Bjarki Meitel, food sam- the Iceland University of Education’s ples, a dance and puppet show for the Equal Rights Committee and the Centre whole family and much more. For more for Women’s and Gender Studies at the info see: www.listasafnreykjavikur.is University of Iceland. Equality will be Reykjavík Art Museum (Kjarvalsstaðir), discussed from various vantage points, at Flókagata and the aim is to create a dialogue be- Reykjavík Documentary tween scholars, students, administra- Workshop tive staff and others interested in equal- April 17 and 19 ity issues. On April 17, respected director John Ap- Askja, the Natural Sciences Building at pel will lecture on how to write scripts the University of Iceland for documentaries. The lecture takes Israel-Palestine Cinema place at the Reykjavík Art Museum First Tuesday of each month (Hafnarhúsið) and is organised by the The Iceland-Palestine Association Reykjavík Documentary Workshop and hosts a screening of films related to the The Icelandic Film Makers Association. Israel-Palestine situation. The screen- A workshop designed specifically for ings are at Café Cultura inside the Inter- people in the movie business will be cultural Centre, at 20:00 the first Tues- Sigurður Guðmundsson held on April 19, also at Hafnarhúsið. day of each month. For more info see: Mutes Entry is free for the lecture but partici- www.palestina.is pation in the workshop costs 8,000 ISK The Intercultural Centre, Hverfisgata 8 and applications must be sent to info@ Open House at the Intercultural rdw.is before April 6. For more info see: Centre www.rdw.is Every Friday night Hafnarhús in April Reykjavík Art Museum, Tryggvagata 17 The Intercultural Centre plays host to Reinventing Harbour Cities intercultural meetings every Friday at April 25 22:00. The concept is to bring foreign- CIA.is (Centre for Icelandic Art), in co- ers and Icelanders together, and to give operation with the Iceland Academy them the opportunity to get to know of the Arts and Nordic House, has or- other people and to share experiences. ganised the conference ‘Reinventing The meetings feature plenty of activi- Harbour Cities: Urban Planning and ties that allow attendees to stir things Art in Public Space’ (in English) aimed up into a nice cultural broth. Entrance at opening up discussion of urban de- is free. velopment and the role of art in pub- The Intercultural Centre, Hverfisgata lic spaces of harbour cities. A special 18 emphasis is placed on the role of art- ists to help shape public space. The Silence Erró D–8 development, privatisation and chang- Finnbogi Pétursson Superheroes Gunnhildur Hauksdóttir ing identities of harbour cities such as Finnur Arnar Arnarson Reykjavík present critical challenges Haraldur Jónsson for urban planners as well as for artists Harpa Árnadóttir Open daily 10 a.m. – 5 p.m. living and working within these cities. Curator JBK Ransú Thursdays to 10 p.m. Among speakers are Adriaan Geuze (West 8, Rotterdam), James Corner www.listasafnreykjavikur.is [email protected] T +354 590 1200 F +354 590 1201 (Field Operations, New York), Jürgen & :6I>C< - (% H=DEE>C< (, 7gdch 9DLCIDLCG:N@?6KÏ@ @gVjb Pósthússtræti 9 Aðalstræti 10 6bZg^XVcHinaZ )& 8^ciVbVc^ Tryggvagata 26 Lively dining spot Brons features a variety & Laugavegur 11 The Kraum Iceland Design store features of affordable and exciting tapas dishes as the best from the latest trends in Icelan- What makes American Style burgers dis- ' Cintamani stocks quality Icelandic out- well as burgers, sandwiches, soups and Hafnarstræti dic design. Kraum sells unique, Icelandic tinct from all the other ones in the city &' ( door-gear and travel equipment, guaran- salads and some very addictive Mojitos. takes on everyday items like stationary, is the size, the soft bun and the amount teed to keep the whole family nice and Brons turns into a vibrant DJ-bar when wooden children’s toys, plastic zip-lock- of fresh veggies in the toppings. Grab a warm in any type of weather. Here you’ll the kitchen closes, open until late on able handbags and raincoats, and wool- seat in one of the booths with your bbq find almost everything needed for your weekends. Austurstræti ) len and other clothing and jewellery. heavy special with bacon and cheese, trip across the country and beyond, and fries and a soda and you won’t get hun- you can book an adventure excursion on gry for hours. the spot. - Bankastræti', &( Ingólfsstræti &. ' CdccVW^i^ . H]Va^bVg (& @gdc`gdc (- =VcYeg_cV" Lækjargata (( Hafnarstræti 11 Austurstræti 4 )( '% Laugavegur 63b hVbWVcY^Â (+ , &+ (% Hverfisgata Lækjargata 2a Renowned for its greasy sandwiches, Shalimar prides itself on being the north- (. Laugavegur Located on the corner of Laugavegur Nonnabiti, or Nonni as the locals call it, is ernmost Indian restaurant in the world. '* '. (* and Vitastígur, this hip clothing wonder- The Handknitting Association of Iceland’s one of the more popular junk food plac- The daily special, a sample of two dish- land sells trendy designer wear for both official store, Handprjónasambandið, sells es around, offering a large selection of es, goes for around 1000 ISK. But we sexes. Shoppers can purchase everything HEDII=>H/HVciVBVg^V && Skólavörðustígur wool products of uncompromising qual- take-out or dine-in subs, sandwiches and recommend the chicken tikka masala, &, )' here, from funky street wear and elegant ity. The store features pullover sweaters, burgers with a nice dash of the unique known to be highly addictive. Laugavegur 22a, 101 Reykjavík '& '( dresses to limited-edition shoes and cardigans and other wool accessories. Nonni-sauce. If you have a late-night jewellery from major fashion labels such They also sell yarn and the association A newly opened Mexican bistro on Laugav- chiladas to satisfy any food-lover. Here, craving there’s no need to worry, Nonni Klapparstígur as Vivienne Westwood, Umbro, Cheap hosts knitting nights at Iðu Húsið is open longer than most other places. egur, Santa Maria is both tasty and cheap authentic Mexican food is served for a very ') Monday and Marc by Marc Jacobs. and sports a large menu with more than reasonable price and most dishes go for &- WWW. enough choices of tortillas, tacos and en- less than 1,000 ISK. ( 7¨_Vg^ch7Zhij &% H_{kVgWVg^cc &% (' =[jghZb]a¨_V (. CV`i^6e^cc GRAPE Tryggvagata Grandagarður 9 Skólavörðustígur 18 Bankastræti 14 There’s a good reason why there’s always Located down by the old harbour, Sjá- Loosely translated as ‘Happy Smiling The designer shop The Naked Ape offers VINE.IS a queue in front of Bæjarins Bestu, no varbarinn offers plain and fresh fish, the Headwear’, the shop’s owners have an amazing variety of colourful street- matter the weather or time of day. Se- way Icelanders have been consuming designed whacky hats and headwear clothing, including hand-printed hooded lected the best hot-dog stand in Europe it for centuries, at a competitive price. '- since 1994 and stock a good selection sweatshirts, T-shirts and leggings. Inside by The Guardian – something locals real- Sjávarbarinn’s main feature is an all-you- &) '+ of warm handmade products for women you’ll also find a good selection of Ice- News // Dining ized decades ago – it has been serving can-eat buffet, filled with assorted fish &*() and children at the downtown store. landic music, books on art, accessories people “ein með öllu” downtown since dishes and other creatures from the sea. (, + (- Check out the elf hats if you want to and international designer wear. Travelling // Shopping Austurstræti 1935, making it the oldest fast-food '' . look different. place in the country. Ingólfsstræti Bankastræti Hverfisgata Lækjargata Skólavörðustígur Laugavegur ) E^ooV@^c\ && ;a_iid\ + =aaaVW{iVg &( DHjh]^ &+ Eg^`^Â &. C¨hi^7Vg '' CVhV '* F"7Vg '- , 9dbd &) IVeVhWVg^cc &, @V[[^WVg^cc '% 7Vg&& '( Óa^kZg '+ Fun & FINE DINING 561 1111 GEIRSGATA 9 101 REYKJAVIK ORANGE.IS & :6I>C< - (% H=DEE>C< (, 7gdch 9DLCIDLCG:N@?6KÏ@ @gVjb Pósthússtræti 9 Aðalstræti 10 6bZg^XVcHinaZ )& 8^ciVbVc^ Tryggvagata 26 Lively dining spot Brons features a variety & Laugavegur 11 The Kraum Iceland Design store features of affordable and exciting tapas dishes as the best from the latest trends in Icelan- What makes American Style burgers dis- ' Cintamani stocks quality Icelandic out- well as burgers, sandwiches, soups and Hafnarstræti dic design. Kraum sells unique, Icelandic tinct from all the other ones in the city &' ( door-gear and travel equipment, guaran- salads and some very addictive Mojitos. takes on everyday items like stationary, is the size, the soft bun and the amount teed to keep the whole family nice and Brons turns into a vibrant DJ-bar when wooden children’s toys, plastic zip-lock- of fresh veggies in the toppings. Grab a warm in any type of weather. Here you’ll the kitchen closes, open until late on able handbags and raincoats, and wool- seat in one of the booths with your bbq find almost everything needed for your weekends. Austurstræti ) len and other clothing and jewellery. heavy special with bacon and cheese, trip across the country and beyond, and fries and a soda and you won’t get hun- you can book an adventure excursion on gry for hours. the spot. - Bankastræti', &( Ingólfsstræti &. ' CdccVW^i^ . H]Va^bVg (& @gdc`gdc (- =VcYeg_cV" Lækjargata (( Hafnarstræti 11 Austurstræti 4 )( '% Laugavegur 63b hVbWVcY^Â (+ , &+ (% Hverfisgata Lækjargata 2a Renowned for its greasy sandwiches, Shalimar prides itself on being the north- (. Laugavegur Located on the corner of Laugavegur Nonnabiti, or Nonni as the locals call it, is ernmost Indian restaurant in the world. '* '. (* and Vitastígur, this hip clothing wonder- The Handknitting Association of Iceland’s one of the more popular junk food plac- The daily special, a sample of two dish- land sells trendy designer wear for both official store, Handprjónasambandið, sells es around, offering a large selection of es, goes for around 1000 ISK. But we sexes. Shoppers can purchase everything HEDII=>H/HVciVBVg^V && Skólavörðustígur wool products of uncompromising qual- take-out or dine-in subs, sandwiches and recommend the chicken tikka masala, &, )' here, from funky street wear and elegant ity. The store features pullover sweaters, burgers with a nice dash of the unique known to be highly addictive. Laugavegur 22a, 101 Reykjavík '& '( dresses to limited-edition shoes and cardigans and other wool accessories. Nonni-sauce. If you have a late-night jewellery from major fashion labels such They also sell yarn and the association A newly opened Mexican bistro on Laugav- chiladas to satisfy any food-lover. Here, craving there’s no need to worry, Nonni Klapparstígur as Vivienne Westwood, Umbro, Cheap hosts knitting nights at Iðu Húsið is open longer than most other places. egur, Santa Maria is both tasty and cheap authentic Mexican food is served for a very ') Monday and Marc by Marc Jacobs. and sports a large menu with more than reasonable price and most dishes go for &- enough choices of tortillas, tacos and en- less than 1,000 ISK. ( 7¨_Vg^ch7Zhij &% H_{kVgWVg^cc &% (' =[jghZb]a¨_V (. CV`i^6e^cc Tryggvagata Grandagarður 9 Skólavörðustígur 18 Bankastræti 14 There’s a good reason why there’s always Located down by the old harbour, Sjá- Loosely translated as ‘Happy Smiling The designer shop The Naked Ape offers a queue in front of Bæjarins Bestu, no varbarinn offers plain and fresh fish, the Headwear’, the shop’s owners have an amazing variety of colourful street- matter the weather or time of day. Se- way Icelanders have been consuming designed whacky hats and headwear clothing, including hand-printed hooded lected the best hot-dog stand in Europe it for centuries, at a competitive price. '- since 1994 and stock a good selection sweatshirts, T-shirts and leggings. Inside by The Guardian – something locals real- Sjávarbarinn’s main feature is an all-you- &) '+ of warm handmade products for women you’ll also find a good selection of Ice- ized decades ago – it has been serving can-eat buffet, filled with assorted fish &*() and children at the downtown store. landic music, books on art, accessories people “ein með öllu” downtown since dishes and other creatures from the sea. (, + (- Check out the elf hats if you want to and international designer wear. Austurstræti 1935, making it the oldest fast-food '' . look different. place in the country. Ingólfsstræti Bankastræti Hverfisgata Lækjargata Skólavörðustígur Laugavegur ) E^ooV@^c\ && ;a_iid\ 9G>C@>C< * 6jhijgaVcYV" &' + =aaaVW{iVg &( DHjh]^ &+ Eg^`^Â &. C¨hi^7Vg '' CVhV '* F"7Vg '- , 9dbd &) IVeVhWVg^cc &, @V[[^WVg^cc '% 7Vg&& '( Óa^kZg '+ DISCOVER THE ORIGINAL EASTERN TASTE IN THE WEST INDIAN LUNCH INDIAN DINNER 1090.- INDIAN - PAKISTANI CUISINE 1290.- From 11:30--15:00 AUSTURSTRÆTI 4, Tel: 551 0292 , www.shalimar.is From 15:00--22:00 B10 | Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 04 2008 | Reviews Photos by GAS Ó Restaurant Tabasco’s Ó Restaurant, located at Hotel Óðinsvé, opened in February after Address: The Mexican restaurant Tabasco’s is a cosy establishment on the Address: the previous establishment, restaurant Siggi Hall, closed its doors. Þórsgata 1 corner of Hafnarstræti and Vesturgata. Tabasco’s offers a selection Hafnarstræti 1-3 Ó’s executive chef, Eyþór Rúnarsson, is very familiar with the busi- Tel.: 511 6677 of famous Mexican dishes – although most of them are influenced Tel.: 511 1980 ness and has a long background in preparing gourmet meals for by the American tradition of how Mexican food is presented. local diners and hotel guests. He was head chef of Siggi Hall and is Reviewed by We had a Margarita and shared a small plate of potato skins Reviewed by a member of the Icelandic national team of chefs. Steinunn Jakobsdóttir for starters and found both pleasing. In fact, the skins were better Helga Þórey Jónsdóttir The restaurant is elegantly decorated and its purple walls at Tabasco’s than in many other restaurants in Iceland. Still, I find create a relaxed and sophisticated atmosphere. We examined the four pieces of potato skins for 1000 krónur a bit much. The Marga- menu over a drink at the bar and decided to go for the tasting menu ritas were 1200 each – which is not the most outrageous amount (7,300 ISK) to get a good sample of what the restaurant has to offer. for cocktails, especially since they’re served in proper Margarita The tasting menu consists of four courses and a dessert, selected by glasses and tasted good. the chef. Although the emphasis was mainly on fish dishes this time, The main courses were not as agreeable. My companion had my companion and I chose a bottle of Spanish red wine, Museum beef tacos and I had the chicken quesadillas. The beef in the ta- Real Reserva (5,190 ISK), recommended by the waiter. The wine cos was not satisfactory. It tasted like it was spiced with Season All proved to be an excellent choice. or some other MSG-infused crap. In a restaurant that charges 2000 As an appetiser, we were brought a sample of duck confit with krónur for a main course, I’d expect my food not to be drowned celery-pear-salad and buttermilk-foam, which was delicious. What in fat but both the tacos and the quesadillas were very greasy, al- followed was a mix of fairly good and really tasty dishes. We en- though the quesadillas were better. They came with a side of black joyed the smoked salmon on a sugary crumpet, topped with cream- beans and more vegetables than the tacos. cheese and roe while the halibut with buttery sauce, halibut-stew There’s no other way to describe the condiments than as an and all sorts of trimmings was nothing extraordinary. The sweet infuriating insult to Mexican cuisine. Tabasco’s serves the worst gua- taste of the tomato sauce served with the salted cod blended well camole I’ve ever had in a restaurant. They should really look up a with the cold tomato sorbet on top and made the dish our abso- recipe because what they’re serving barely resembles the authentic lute favourite. The caramel browned shallot onion that came with version. No chunks, no taste, no nothing. The salsa wasn’t any bet- the tender loin of beef was also a hit. The only real disappointment ter. I’d be surprised if I were told it was freshly made, because the of the night was the dessert, a flavourless pine-nut cake with pears taste had the word “can” written all over it. There was something and watery ice cream. The sample of rum-banana-stew with lime, that resembled pico de gallo on top of my quesadillas – but maybe cream-cheese and biscuits our waiter brought us after our espressos it was just chopped vegetables – I have no idea. was much better. A winning combination they should definitely put I’m afraid I can’t recommend Tabasco’s for food enthusiasts, on the menu. but if you don’t know that Mexican food should include cilantro or The excellent service deserves special praise. Although every spicy flavour, this is your place. However I do recommend the drinks table was filled, the service was consistently attentive; the waiters and the snacks. They are just fine. answered all our questions and ensured we would enjoy our eve- ning. Which we did. What´s on? www.getrvk.com Traveller’s Day 2008 – April 24 The Traveller’s Day will be celebrated Thursday April 24, the First residents to all the fun things within the city limits. The Traveller’s Here are some of the exciting activities available. Full schedule Day of Summer according to the old Icelandic calendar. The Day programme is family-oriented, exciting and very inexpensive. will be available from the Tourist Info Centre, Aðalstræti 2 or from day is dedicated to tourism and travel-related leisure activities in Different leisure activities will be offered at discount prices (or free) www.visitreykjavik.is and www.ferdalangur.is. the Reykjavík Capital Area with the objective to introduce local and most programs are free for children accompanied by adults. Active Traveller 10:00 - 17:00 Healthy Traveller Gljúfrasteinn Enjoy action packed adventures within the city limits. – The House of Halldór Laxness Enjoy the option of a healthy lifestyle in the city. Open house. Free entrance. Gljúfrasteinn, Mosfellsbær. 10:00 - 16:00 10:00 - 17:00 10:00 ATV Trips to Úlfarsfell Reykjavík Art Musuem – Kjarvalsstaðir Helgafell – A Guided Walk Eskimos offers travellers to take an ATV to the top of Mt. Úlfarsfell, Mikines A retrospective of the work of the distinguished Faroese Entertaining for the whole family. A guide will explain the geology with an amazing view of the city and the surrounding area. The painter Samuel Joensen-Mikines who has been called the father and the history of the place. Departure in private cars from Mörkin ride takes 20-30 minutes. Price: 3,000 ISK, free for children under of Faroese painting. 6. No admission, everyone welcome. ten accompanied by an adult. Take route 430 to Hafravatn Lake. Kjarval (1885 - 1972) Exhibition of works from the museum´s col- The Iceland Tourist Association, Mörkin 6. lection by one of Iceland’s pioneers of painting. 10:00 - 16:00 Nína Sæmundson (1892-1965) Exhibition of works from the Better View of Reykjavík with museum´scollection. Nína spent most of her career in North Hop On – Hop Off America, creating many works for public spaces. Her work can be Traveller at Sea Enjoy a scenic tour of Reykjavík with the Hop On – Hop Off bus. found throughout Iceland. Free entrance. Hop on wherever you want, hop off whenever you want. Experi- Kjarvalsstaðir, Flókagata 5. Experience and adventure at sea, right within the city limits. ence Reykjavík in a different way. 10:00 - 17:00 13:00, 14:15 & 15:15 Reykjavík Art Musuem – Ásmundarsafn Hydrogen at the Old Harbour Scenic Flights over Reykjavík The Shape of a Line A retrospective exhibition of works by one For the first time in the world a hydrogen generator will be acti- Booking tel.: 570 3030. Price: 1,900 ISK per person. Free for of the pioneers of sculpture in Iceland, Ásmundur Sveinsson. vated on board a passenger ship, Elding. Hydrogen cars, electric children under 15 years. Air Iceland – Reykjavík Airport. Curator: Fee Quai. Ásmundarsafn by Sigtún. cars and methan cars will be located at the harbour for the public to try. The Old Harbour. 11:00 - 17:00 National Museum of Iceland Eco-friendly Canal Sailings Running program: Games – old and new, guided tours for all ages, Short sailings around the islands of Reykjavík with the ship Elding- workshops and puppet theatre. Free entrance. with a hydrogen generator. Admission 500 ISK per adult and chil- Þjóðminjasafn Íslands, Suðurgötu 41. dren 6 years old and younger free of charge. Duration 30-40 min. Ægisgarður. 11:00 - 17:00 National Gallery of Iceland Workshop and guided tour for children through the exhibition Streymið – La Durée at 14:00. Free entrance. National Gallery of Iceland Fríkirkjuvegur 7. 13:00 - 16:00 Reykjavík City Library Celebrating the Sun (Family program) Children and adults of all origin celebrate Iceland’s First Day of Summer by singing and telling stories from around the world. The Children’s World Choir sings, all children who want to join this new choir are welcome to a rehearsal at 3 p.m., Sunday April 20th. City Library Grófarhús, Tryggvagötu 15. Program: 13:00 Children’s Choice Book Prize handed out. 13:00 - 17:00 13:30 Sólarsaga (Story of the Sun), puppet theatre by Helga Horseback Riding with Íshestar Arnalds. One hour long tours with Íshestar at 13:00, 14:00 & 15:00, price 14:00 Workshops – Puppet-making / Make and paint your own 1,500 ISK. Free for children to be lead by reins between 13:30- sun / Songs and stories about the sun in different languages. 14:00, 14:30-15:00 and 15:30-16:00. Café buffet from 13:00-17:00. 15:00 The Children’s World Choir sings. Íshestar, Sörlakeiði 26, Hafnarfjörður 14:00 Hallargarðurinn Park Whale Watching Centre Cultural Companion Birna invites everyone for an hour long Free entrance and complimentary hot drinks. Special offers on Cultural Traveller program at the Hallargarðurinn Park. Guided tour of the park and refreshments. Ægisgarður. the statues, games, coffe and pancakes. Price 500 ISK for adults. Enjoy arts and culture at the city’s musuems Free for children. Hallargarðurinn by Fríkirkjuvegur. Fish Special Several fish restaurants around the harbour offer a special fish 14:00 - 17:00 menu to celebrate the arrival of summer. 10:00 - 17:00 Sigurjón Ólafsson Museum The Sea Baron Festive atmosphere and fine seafood at The Sea Reykjavík Art Museum – Hafnarhús Guided tour of the works of Sigurjón Ólafsson at 14.30. Free Baron. 15% discount on all dishes. Sea Baron, Grettisgata 8. D8 Gunnhildur Hauksdóttir creates installations and video works, Entrance. Sigurjón Ólafsson Museum, Laugarnestangi 70. Iceland Fish and chips Deep fried haddock in spelt-orly, often with simple allusions which entreat the viewer’s interpreta- crunchy Icelandic potatoes and skyronnes. Price: 1450 ISK. tion of humanity, our environment and our frames of reference. 16:00 - 17:00 Iceland fish and chips, Tryggvagata 8. Mutes Sigurður Guðmundsson, one of Iceland’s best-known art- Hafnarfjörður Sjávarbarinn Summer fun at Sjávarbarinn. BBQ, luxury fishburg- ists on the international scene, Sigurður divides his life and work Museum of Local History Lively guided tours in Hafnarfjörður. er w/ Pepsi and chips. Price: 500 ISK. Refreshments on Special between Holland, Iceland, Sweden, and, in recent years, Xiamen Vesturgata 8, Hafnarfjördur. offer from 14:00. Sjávarbarinn, Grandagarði 9. and Beijing, China. Vikings Introduction of the Viking festival and the Viking market in Silence Finnbogi Pétursson, Finnur Arnar Arnarson, Haraldur Hafnarfjörður. Jónsson, and Harpa Árnadóttir, yield themselves to the power of Fjörukráin, Strandgata 55, Hafnarfjörður. silence. Erró – Superheroes This exhibit of Erró’s work focuses on his 20:00 use of heroes from the world of comic strips. Ghost Walk D1 - D8 Publication celebration and panel discussions on the first 90-minute walk through Reykjavík’s most haunted places. For series of exhibitions in Hafnarhúsís D gallery, promoting the work reservations, call 696 7474. Max. capacity 50 pers. Admission of the younger generation of Icelandic visual artists. Opens at 1000 ISK. Departure from Ingólfsnaust, Aðalstræti 2. 20:00. Free entrance. Reykjavík Art Museum, Hafnarhús, Tryggvagata 17. Full schedule will be available from the Tourist Info Centre, Aðalstræti 2 or from www.visitreykjavik.is and www.ferdalangur.is B12 | Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 04 2008 | Article Members of Seabear, Kimono and Skátar plot world domination at Organ. Photo by GAS The Grapevine Summer Special The Grapevine will say good-bye to winter, April pearance by Magnús Kjartansson, the veteran pop the band is going to put out a new record in the So, rejoice. Winter is 23, the eve of the first day of summer, with a spec- star who will perform his summer hit Sólarsamba, near future. tacular show at Organ. We have recruited some of a song that celebrates summer like no other song Skátar is another great indie-rock band out finally coming to an the most exciting bands in Iceland to celebrate has done since. This summer marks the 20-year of Reykjavík. Their debut LP, The Ghost of Bol- the coming summer and we invite you to join us. anniversary of the song’s release. That is a cause locks to Come, was selected in 2007 as the best end, and the Grapevine The opening act is the Reykjavík three-piece for celebration in itself. album of the year in the Grapevine’s end-of-year Swords of Chaos, an experimental rock band that Kimono is one of the most original indie- review. The band has not played a show in Reyk- is here to entertain you. draws it sound from various influences, but claims rock bands in the business. The band is down one javík for a while now, but much like Kimono, they to be mostly influenced by the big bang and the member and has recently been re-invented as a have been busy writing new material. This will be Come and celebrate sum- end of the world. three-piece. The band is currently adjusting to a great opportunity for fans to gauge the band’s The lo-fi and melodic indie-pop-country of their new formation. According to guitarist Gylfi direction. mer with us at Organ, Seabear has won the band many admirers. Their Blöndal, the band has spent the last few months debut album, The Ghost That Carried Us Away writing new material. “We have no idea how peo- By Sveinn Birkir Björnsson April 23. was selected as one of the best albums of the year ple will react to us,” Gylfi says. “I have been play- in The Grapevine’s end-of-year review, and they ing a baritone guitar to try and replace the loss are guaranteed to make this a night to remember. of the bass player, but this changes a lot for us.” The highlight of the night is a special guest ap- Kimono has been recording new songs lately and Cappuccino + bagle + yoghurt = 650 kr. The only guide that tells you the talk of the swimming pools, how to find the best cafes, how to recover from all night parties, an A to Z of Icelandic music and what "Viltu kaffi?" can really mean. Travel Guides Can Be Honest. Really Available at your nearest bookstore B14 | Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 04 2008 | Article The Underground Kids of Ukraine “The girl injecting herself in the video was notori- met thousands and describes them as the stron- new chapter began.” “I wanted to do a docu- ous on the streets of Odessa. She was an amazing gest and most wonderful people he has ever met. “I got to know a new community, shaped by girl. One of the toughest I’ve ever known. Her dad To tell their story and make a documentary that fo- their world and the dangers they face every day. mentary about this sub- killed her mother and sexually abused her since cuses on a reality ignored by governments world- They have their own laws and rules and each she was four. At the age of six, she ran away from wide, he has been harassed by local authorities, member has his own role. Some may be good ject and took the next home. She ate stones and needles because she felt received death threats from the mafia and had to fighters while others are better at negotiating with so bad and ended up in hospital. She lived on the bribe the police multiple times. the cops, begging for money or stealing. There is plane to Kiev. At that streets since then. [At sixteen], she overdosed.” “Why did I decide to do this? There are a strong affection between them and they look af- So describes documentary filmmaker Tjörvi couple of reasons, mostly personal. Nothing I ter each other. They also play around and do fun time, I had no idea what I Guðmundsson one of the street children featured want to explain in detail. I wanted to do a docu- things together, just like all kids do, and are often in a disturbing music video he made to the new mentary about this subject and took the next really happy. The difference is that all their games was getting myself into.” Mínus single ‘Throwaway Angel’ (posted on the plane to Kiev. At that time, I had no idea what I are a matter of life or death.” band’s Myspace). Tjörvi, who has spent the past was getting myself into,” Tjörvi explains: “I got to There are many reasons why the children five years living with the children on the streets of know a strong group in Kiev. Children from age ended up on the streets. Abandoned or forced Odessa and Ukraine’s capital Kiev, dedicates the eight to seventeen. They live under a bridge dur- out of their homes by parents who are either drug video to fallen friends and those still struggling to ing the summer and hide down in the sewers dur- addicts or alcoholics. Some of them ran away stay alive in horrific inhumane conditions where ing the winter, when the temperature can drop to because of violence and sexual abuse. Others violence, torture and crimes are everyday occur- minus 20 degrees.” escaped from orphanages, where they are often rences. On May 1, he will open an exhibition at To be able to get to know the underground victims of even more brutality. Thousands of chil- Gallery Startart on Laugavegur 12b where he pres- world and show the tragic reality of their lives as dren became homeless at such an early age that ents both photographs and videos with these chil- accurately as possible, Tjörvi had to become one they don’t know whether they have parents or not dren as the subjects. of the group. He slept in the sewers, became their and life on the street is the only thing they know. friend and observed their every move. But earn- “When these children have lived on the Hidden Community ing the children’s trust took time. street for so long they become addicted to it. Some While Ukraine has experienced economic growth “They don’t trust people easily but when you of them are fostered but run back to the street. for the past years, the number of homeless chil- spend time on the streets, you slowly start to un- After living among them and experiencing their dren continues to be a serious problem. Although derstand their daily routine, where they hang out lives I can understand that in a way. These are just it is nearly impossible to find accurate numbers, and at what time. At first I followed them around. kids that have lost their friends on the street and Tjörvi says hundreds of thousands of children live Then I tried to approach them. After about one feel obligated to defend their territory. The street on the streets without any adult protection. He has year I had become part of the group. Then a whole becomes their world, their mother and home.” Article | Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 04 2008 | B15 Most of them sniff glue or paint to keep the dren. Odessa is one of the biggest tourist spots in have a good friend, Victor, who got off the street. feel guilty about dining at a fancy restaurant af- hunger pains away and many use hard drugs to Ukraine and many children from Odessa are sold I think it is mostly because he has such a great ter hanging with the kids in the sewers. Then you escape reality. The toughest street children only into the sex industry across Europe. They more or sense of humour. He is a brilliant kid, extremely start to lose touch with reality. Now I’m trying to live until about the age of seventeen, he says. less all have HIV,” he says. funny. A family fell in love with him and took him put myself back together again. Of course I want “They are always on the run and just take Tjörvi adds that the majority of people close into their home. I met him again six months ago to believe that this world will come to an end but one day at a time. Life [on the streets] is worth their eyes to this problem. “There are lots of rich and he has it pretty good. Miracles can happen.” I’m also realistic. This is a very political and com- nothing. They are often murdered by fellow street- people in Kiev. That doesn’t change the fact that I ask if it’s necessary to get so close to the sub- plicated issue. But the kids deserve much more. gangs. They are sold to sexual slavery. They are no one gives the children anything. They are ject, as he has, to do a documentary of this kind: They have done nothing wrong. It is the system, kidnapped and their organs removed and sold. In looked at as the scum of the earth. Not as children “As I see it, there are two types of documentaries. the economy and the parents that are to blame. this world, it isn’t like someone is going to report a the system has let down.” The ones more like news pieces where the film- Not them. That this problem hasn’t been tackled crime or that the police will investigate cases like He doesn’t have much respect for aid agen- makers shoot for a month or so and then describe is outrageous.” these. If a child is found dead on the street, noth- cies working in the country: “I could never have the circumstances. Then there are documentaries After the exhibition at gallery Startart, Tjörvi ing is done about it. No one cares.” imagined what a fraud many of these organisa- where the filmmaker starts to live the film. When will go back to the kids on the streets of Ukraine tions are. Some mean well and try to help but my you do that, and get the subject to stop noticing to shoot the main parts of his documentary. Sold into Sex Slavery experience is that most of them only use these you or the camera, you can capture the real atmo- Many of the kids work as prostitutes and the child children to get funding. I don’t want to name sphere that will hopefully reflect through the film. By Steinunn Jakobsdóttir sex industry, controlled by the mafia, is extremely any names, but I’ve seen plenty of organisations By now, the film has become the side issue to me harsh in Ukraine, Tjörvi explains. Trafficking and use the children to get more money. They bring though. These children are my best friends today, sexual exploitation of homeless children is wide- them in, give them food, take pictures of them to and that’s what it is all about. They have taught spread, and a growing number of kids are HIV post on their websites but throw them back out me more about life than I could ever teach them. I positive. on the street afterwards. Two employees working owe them a lot.” “People might think this won’t have any for an aid agency in Ukraine quit their jobs after I Understandably, the experience has affect- consequences, but HIV in Odessa is considered showed them how the situation on the streets re- ed him a great deal. Asked how he has handled to be one of the largest HIV problems in Europe. ally is. I have plenty of respect for the Norwegian this, to get so connected to the characters and wit- All the kids I worked with in Odessa, for example, aid people though for doing a lot to help the chil- ness this tragedy without giving up and leaving, are HIV positive. I had to teach them that it wasn’t dren directly. They hand out clean needles.” he responds: enough to clean the needles with cold water after Tjörvi says many of the children have be- “I’ve gone through that period. Today, I they had injected themselves. That was something come sceptical towards adults. They know there would probably think twice, knowing how this they didn’t know and had therefore transmitted isn’t much hope of a better future as only a very experience would fuck me up. No question. The the disease to each other, around 30 to 40 chil- small percentage gets a second chance in life. “I thing is, you get stuck. 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