A Coruña &

February 2016

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INDEX ______​ A CORUÑA Banco Pastor’s Building Barrié Foundation Alfonso Kiosk Columbus’ Theatre Rosalía de Castro’s Theatre Galleries at La Marina Avenue St. Nicholas Church Humour Square María Pita Square City Hall St. Carlos Garden and Sir John Moore’s tomb Castle of San Antón Convent of Santo Domingo Aquarium Domus, house of Humans House of Sciences Orzán Beach St. Peter Mount.

COSTA DA MORTE

FISTERRA Castle of San Carlos Lonja Señora del buen Suceso chapel Church of Nosa Señora das Areas Finisterre & lighthouse. Ézaro waterfall and viewpoint Granary of .

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A CORUÑA

The centre of the city extends over a peninsula linked to the mainland by a narrow isthmus and therefore has two different sides: the port (looking out to A Coruña estuary, with more quiet waters) and the other open to the sea, towards the Orzán cove, over which the main urban beaches extend (Riazor and Orzán).

It was the capital of from 1563 until 1982, after which the title passed on to . It is the seat of the High Court of Galicia, the Government Delegate's Office in this Community and headquarters of the Real Academia Gallega (Academy for ).

Banco Pastor’s building ​ Although nowadays it doesn’t stand out for its height, we are in front of the building that used to be the highest of between 1922 and 1929, year in which it was replaced by one in Madrid. In order to build this 11 floor skyscraper, inspired by important European banks’ headquarters, architectural techniques from the School of Chicago were used. Innovative materials such as concrete and steel were also used, but the building was covered with artificial stone to make it seem more elaborate and beautiful. Its construction began back in 1919 with the eclectic style of the time and starting from a premise: the bank wanted its headquarters to stand out over the rest of the buildings. We are in an age of expansion for most of Spanish cities, which had been accelerated since the end of the 19th century. In spite of not being as populated as ​

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3 the country’s main centres of population, A Coruña’s territory became more and more organised and urbanism started to gain importance.

Fundación Barrié (Barrié Foundation) ​ This foundation, linked to Banco Pastor, was born in 1966, but it wasn’t until the year 1995 that it settled in this building. It soon became one of the most active cultural centres of the city. The Foundation aims to promote education and culture, that’s why it has a scholarship system, as well as great international artists’ exhibitions, concerts and other educational activities. The Foundation hosted the most important contemporary artists, both in collective and individual exhibitions. It has a library, specialised in Galician culture, that holds over 40 000 volumes, as well as a museum and a shop where you can buy its impeccable publications about cultural and scientific subjects.

Kiosko Alfonso (Alfonso Kiosk) ​ Alfonso Kiosk is an emblematic place of the city where a variety of thematic exhibitions are held. These include painting, photography and industrial design exhibitions. Also, a popular Comic Convention takes place here every year. It is a nouveau style beautiful building opened in 1913. It was named after a visit made by King Alfonso XIII to A Coruña. Although during the 1980s it became a venue for exhibitions, it used to be a cafeteria and an entertainment venue.

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Teatro Colón (Columbus’ Theatre) ​ This place was designed during the outbreak of World War II in 1945 and it opened its doors three years later. Since then, it has been drawing up a programme for different kinds of concerts and pieces of theatre, from opera to flamenco. Several generations of actors and artists have set their foot on its stage.

Teatro Rosalía de Castro (Rosalia de Castro’s Theatre) ​ In 1838, A Coruña’s City Council decided to buy the old San Jorge’s temple and to build here a local theatre. Its construction took several years and it wasn’t easy to finance, but at the end it was worth it. Unfortunately, a few years later, in 1867 there was a fire and it had to be rebuilt. It has an eclectic style, that is to say, that mixes elements from different styles of art and architecture.

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Galerías de la Marina (Galleries at La Marina Avenue) ​ In the 19th century, a new architectural element revolutionized the city: tailor­made flat glass ​ sold in . This element was initially brought to Galicia in order to glaze some ships made at Ferrol’s famous shipyards, but it didn’t take long for it to reach the households. Here, next to the sea, the wind blows very strongly and nothing is enough to keep our homes warm during winter. So people who lived in A Coruña at that time saw this system of galleries as a perfect solution to their problems. They glazed the back of their homes obtaining a beautiful eclectic decoration and attracting the sunlight to keep its heat longer. The system caused such a sensation that it soon reached the fishermen’s neighbourhood and the whole area of La Marina. In fact, what you’re seeing now are the continuous 500 meters of galleries that have given A Coruña the nickname of ‘The Glass City”. Although some of them have a wrought iron structure, most of the galleries were made of wood erecting the original balconies of the buildings. Under these houses you can find arcades, ​ which protect the countless cafés where people from A Coruña meet up and relax themselves.

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Iglesia de San Nicolás (St. Nicholas Church) ​ The temple was built during medieval times, but it was completely remodelled in the 18th century, so nowadays you can barely see ​ its origins. At the top of the façade, you can see the sculpture of St. Nicholas, whom this church pays tribute to. Indoors, you can find the choir, the barrel vault which allows light in from the outside and the side doors of the presbytery.

Praza do Humor (Humour Square) ​ This discreet square is inhabited by some real and fiction characters that have made this country enjoy itself a lot. The Galician writers Castelao and Cunqueiro are resting and probably chatting on its benches. They are known for their comics and short stories, where they often described typical scenes of Galicia. Not far away, you can find the secret agents who belong to the Intelligence Agency T.I.A. We are talking about ‘Mortadelo y Filemón’ (Mort and Phil), who were created by Francisco ​ ​ Ibáñez and are the main characters of Spanish comics. The naughty twins Zipi and Zape are there either to brighten your day or annoy you. As many kids during the Spanish Transition to democracy, they are struggling to get a bike. Also, you can find one of the greatest cartoon characters of all times, the Pink Panther, along with great actors such as Pepe Isbert or Mae West. Go ahead and sit next to one of them, they will definitely have something to tell you.

Praza de María Pita (María Pita Square) ​ In May 1589, the scary English privateer Sir Francis Drake attacked the city under the orders of his Crown. After knocking down the exterior of the wall, a standard­bearer reached the top

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7 of it and when he was about to break down all barriers, a neighbour from the area called María jumped on him and killed him. After such a proof of courage, she shouted: ‘Whoever has honour, follow me!’ And that’s how A Coruña’s citizens killed one of the most bloodthirsty privateers of the world. After such an event, how could the most important square of the city and one of the most beautiful in Spain not be named after her? The square is dominated by a statute of the heroine, made of bronze, where we can see her holding a spear with her hand, while the English standard­bearer’s body lies under her feet. Oddly enough, although we know a lot about Maria Pita’s story, it is not clear what sort of weapon she used to kill her enemy and whether it was a bladed weapon or a firearm. The square was built during the 19th century, when the city was being extended, and it is ​ 2 more than 1 000 m .​ It hosts the City Hall.. It is a unique place where you can have tapas or ​ try Galician wine.

City Hall ​ This modernist building was inaugurated by King Alfonso XIII in 1927. Finished with grey granite and crowned by three deep red domes, it has three floors and four sculptures alluding to the Galician provinces of A Coruña, Lugo, Ourense and Pontevedra on its façade. Also, you can see the city’s coat of arms, which is protected by two matrons. On the first floor, its arcades join the rest of the square giving a sense of unity.

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Jardín de San Carlos y tumba de Sir John Moore (St. Charles ​ Garden & Sir John Moore's tomb)

This area started out as an extramural fortress of the city, but later became a powder magazine. However, it was left abandoned after an accidental explosion. It was Governor Francisco de Mazarredo who turned it into the romantic garden that you can see now. If you go in, you will discover the tomb of the Scottish General Sir John Moore, who commanded the British troops during their withdrawal from to A Coruña in 1809, chased by the Napoleonic General Soult. When he arrived to A Coruña he fought against Soult’s troops during the famous Batalla de Elviña (Battle of A Coruña). Sir John Moore selected the best of his troops and fought ​ ​ against the French, while the rest of his 14 000 men were boarding to go back to Great Britain. The French threw more than 900 cannonballs to Sir Moore’s troops: one of them tore his arm off and ended up killing him. Even though he was first buried next to the walls, nowadays his remains lie in this beautiful and calm garden, where you can enjoy the beautiful views of the port and the city.

Castillo de San Antón (Castle of San Antón) ​ A chapel devoted to San Antón was built in a small island located at A Coruña’s bay. Because of its strategic location, the chapel soon became a fortress during the reign of Philip II of Spain. And, although it wasn’t finished when the privateer Drake attacked the city, it helped protecting. Later on, during the 18th century, it became a prison where relevant ​ characters of Spanish history were locked up. Among them, we find Macanaz, a Spanish

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9 politician condemned by the Spanish Inquisition; Malespina, an Italian noble and sailor that suggested the independence of the Spanish colonies in 1776; and Porlier, a Spanish soldier who rose up against King Ferdinand VII in 1814.

Nowadays it hosts a three floor museum. On the first floor, you can see items from Prehistory and the city’s history; the medium floor is dedicated to heraldry and medieval history and the top floor, also known as ‘the Governor’s floor’, is dedicated to important events that took place in the city, such as the Spanish Armada’s departure, Drake’s assault and the Battle of A Coruña. You can also visit the chapel of N.S. del Rosario (Our Lady of the Rosary), the patron saint ​ ​ of the city, and of course, enjoy the beautiful views of La Marina.

Convento de Santo Domingo (Convent of Santo Domingo) ​ The Convent of Santo Domingo is closely linked to the city’s history. In 1589, worried about the imminent attack led by the English privateer Francis Drake, the members of the brotherhood gathered in this church to pray to the patron saint of the city, the Virgin of the Rosary, to save them from the invaders. Drake’s troops took the convent, but didn’t succeed in conquering the city and had to withdraw. This led to such a popular clamour that the City Council committed itself to finance the celebration of the victory. New vows were made in 1809 during the Napoleonic invasion.

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After being destructed by Drake, the convent was moved to its current location. There are only some remains left from the church, such as capitals and a Madonna and child sculpture. Inside the church you can find two neoclassic altarpieces with images of Saint Peter Martyr or Saint Vincent Ferrer and, of course, the Lady of the Rosaries’ chapel.

Torre de Hércules (Tower of Hercules) ​

It is the oldest lighthouse in the world and the only Roman lighthouse still active. Its history is surrounded by many legends. They say that it was built by Hercules after burying the giant Geryon’s head underneath it. It has been working since the 2nd century A.D., although during the Medium Age it stopped ​ being used as a lighthouse and it was turned into a fortress. Throughout history, the Tower of Hercules has undergone several transformations. The last one was in the 18th century and ​ it made it look as we see it today. In the year 2009, it became a World Heritage site and it is currently part of a sculpture park, which surrounds the tower and where you can see a compass rose with Celtic and Tartessian motives, as well as sculptures related to the tower’s history. If you want you can go up the 200 steps that will take you to the top of the tower. It is definitely worth it. Once at the top, be careful with the wind, otherwise you won’t need the steps to go back down!

Aquarium ​

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At the Aquarium, you’ll be able to see some marine species more closely, although some of them are not very famous. For example, the sharks that live on the Galician coast, which are very different from the ones we see in movies and documentaries. You’ll also be able to touch some fishes at ‘la Charca de las Caricias’ (The Pond of Strokes), ​ ​ where you’ll be able to check how friendly and grateful they can be. You will also get to know the OceanoSfera, a spherical screen that will allow you to stare at our planet as if you were in a space ship. This way, you’ll be able to understand how ocean currents and meteorological systems function. It might be true that the flap of a butterfly’s wings can arise a hurricane thousands of kilometres away… Without any doubt, what will surprise you the most is the Nautilus room, Captain Nemo’s submarine, where you’ll see the ocean’s depths and their inhabitants.

Domus, Casa do Home (Domus, House of Humans) ​ This building was designed by the japanese architect Arata Isozaki and has more than 200 interactive modules to enjoy and reflect on the features of the human species. This is another great museum that we have in A Coruña. It is devoted to the Earth and the role that we play in it. You will walk between your ancestors and you’ll even be able to get a picture with them. You will get to know more about our history and about how we are made. In fact, there is a huge mock­up of a gene. Usually, there are also interesting temporary exhibitions about important aspects of life, such as the human creative capacity. Apart from that, if you enjoy watching movies, take a chance and watch 3D documentaries, such as SOS Planet and Wild Safari. Opening times (weekend): from 11h to 19h. Price: €2

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Casa das Ciencias (House of Sciences) ​ The Science House was the first interactive museum in Spain. The small palace of the Saint Margaret park has a planetarium and three floors with exhibitions: physical experiments, temporal exhibitions and current science. In this place a Focault’s Pendulum hangs. Opening times (weekend): from 11h to 19h. Price: €2

Praia do Orzán (Orzán Beach) ​

Together with Riazor, Orzán Beach is the busiest beach of the city. It is about 700 meters long and it is surrounded by a walking area full of cafés and restaurants, where you can have a drink and relax staring at the sea and the surfers.

Monte de San Pedro (St. Peter Mount) ​ What was an ancient defensive point for the city has now become the best viewpoint in A Coruña. From the top of this point the ships guided by the millennial lighthouse can be viewed. You will be impressed by the presence of enormous cannons. War machines that used to defend the city and point the horizon.

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COSTA DA MORTE (“Shore of Death”)

The Costa da Morte stretches over tens of kilometres along the north­western coast of Galicia within the province of A Coruña.This coast gets its name from the many shipwrecks that have occurred here. A rugged coastline with endless beaches and cliffs, strong currents and sudden storms as well, which make it so feared by sailors.

The lifestyle of the inhabitants of the Costa da Morte is closely linked to the sea. Their economy is based on fishing and shellfishing. One of the most representative images in this area is that of the "percebeiros", barnacle collectors who jump from rock to rock as they dodge the incoming waves. These villages' gastronomy stands out for the great quality and variety of fish and seafood available here.

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FISTERRA

Castillo de San Carlos (Castle of San Carlos) ​ It is one of the castles or defensive fortresses erected in the coast during the 18th century. The construction was supervised by engineers Lemaur and Exarch but just partially, until ten years later the Order of Charles III ordered to finish it. It had three fronts and in the inside there used to be the military headquarters, the officer’s study and the powder magazine. Some time later, in an assault made by the French during the War of Independence, a fire destroyed it and the central nave had to be restored and also underwent a recent renovation. Nowadays, this building host the “Fishing Museum”.

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Lonja ​ Made by the architects Juan Creus and Covadonga Carrasco, it is the market where the fish (coming from coastal fishing) is first auctioned off. Than fish and shellfish can be tasted in the many restaurants of the city. Furthermore, inside it hosts an exhibition about fishing.

Capilla de Nuestra Señora del Buen Suceso (Señora del ​ Buen Suceso Chapel) it is located in the popular and central Square of Ara Solis. This baroque­style temple of the 18th century has an only nave, with a squared main chapel where we can see an inscription of a greek cross. The main rectangular façade has a pediment over the door representing the shield of the chapel’s founder.

Iglesia Santa María das Areas (Church of Nosa Señora das ​ Areas)

It was donated by Doña Urraca, daughter of the Count of Traba. When the arrival of the pilgrims started growing in the 14th, 15th and 16th centuries, the priest Alonso García decided to establish the “Hospital de Peregrinos Nuestra Señora del Rosario” (a hospital for pilgrims) in 1479, built in front of the main façade of the church.

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The Santísimo Cristo de Fisterra Chapel, of baroque style, has a rectangular floor area. It is believed to have been built by Domingo A. de Andrade, distinguished artist who participated in the construction of the Cathedral of Santiago, or maybe Fray Gabriel de las Casas. Anyways, its construction began in 1695 to host the altarpiece representing the Holy Christ of Fisterra. This altarpiece by Miguel de Romay is dated 1721. The gothic image of the Christ (early 14th century) is a work by Nicodemus. It is said that during its transportation by boat, they had to throw into the sea, in Cabanas headland, because of a storm and that the “Cristo de la Barba Dorada” has made a lot of miracles.

The central nave is from the early 15th century, with its gothic arch and semi­column, even though parts of the painting on the northern wall, the window and the main façade belong to the 13th century. The image of the Pilgrim Santiago, from the 17th century, stands out.

Cabo y faro de Finisterre ( & lighthouse) ​ For centuries this site was considered the end of the known lands, the end of the world. The cape is a cliff that goes from the islets of O Petonciño and A Centola to the O Facho mountain (242 m). Here there is believed to be the “Altar Soli”, used in ancient times to have rituals to worship the sun.

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Traditionally it is believed to be the western point of the continent. Here ends the Way of St. James and it is a tradition for pilgrims to burn their clothes and boots here on these shores and then begin their journey back home.

Ancient people used to believe that death would lead to a new life in an western isle, where the sun used to lie. In these celtic legends it is not unusual to find images of heroes going on their last journey to this paradise in a ship made of stone. When the Romans came to this land, they saw for the first time the sight of the sun that meets the water and they found an altar dedicated to the sun, the “Altar Soli”, erected by the celtic tribes living in this area.

The lighthouse was built in 1853 and it is located at 138 metres above sea level. It is considered the cape of the end of the world, “Finis Terrae” or “Finisterre”. It is the westernmost lighthouse of Europe and has an octogonal tower, the house of the lighthouse­keeper and a square as a tribute to general San Martín. It is probably the most visited lighthouse in Europe as well as the closest to America.

From the lighthouse we can get close to the municipal cemetery, an innovative work by the architect César Portela. Far from the traditional concept, this cemetery is made of cubic shapes located on the shore of the sea. On the top of the mountain we can find the remains St William’s shrine. Here we can also see “St William’s Stone”, to which, according to the popular tradition, women of the area used to come to ask the saint to help them conceive a child.

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Ézaro Waterfall and viewpoint

The river Xallas is the only one in Europe to flow into the sea in the shape of a waterfall. At the end of its flow there is a 155 metres drop that makes the water fall for 40 metres until it hits the walls of the canyon located at the bottom of Mount Pindo (630 metres high). From the Ézaro viewpoint we can see a stunning panoramic view of the mouth of the Xallas river or Ézaro river, the Cape Finisterre, the Lobeiras islands, Mount Pindo and the Santa Uxía reservoir.

Hórreo de Carnota (Granary of Carnota)

An hórreo is popular galician structure that are used ​ to store wheat and products from the vegetable garden. The hórreo of Carnota was declared National Monument and is classified as the biggest of Galicia along with the one in Lira (not far from this one) and the one in Araño (Rianxo). It is 34.76 metres long. It was built in 1768, even though it didn’t look as we see it now until 1783, when it was extended with eleven

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19 new pairs of pillars. It was built by D. Gregorio Quintela, fact proved by the inscriptions in the ​ various doors of the hórreo. Next to it we can find a dovecote and a church. The hórreo and ​ ​ the dovecote look like the ones in Lira, just a few kilometres away, and that’s why people used to talk about a rivalry between the two parishes. The dovecote has a cylindrical area and a cone­shaped roof made with typical tiles. It is located very close to the Carnota beach, the biggest in Galicia (with seven kilometres in length and 0.5 kilometres in width) and also to Mount Pindo, with original granite rock ​ formations such as the Celtic Olympus.

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