CONTENTS 49 29.05.11

"Sorry, I'm FEATURES just SO hot" COVER STORY Men'. fashion 16 HEY HEY, IT'S THE MONKEYS Arctic Monkeys on chip-shop chic, special Gordon Brown and living with fame 42 26 PIPE DREAMS How an Irish community is being torn apart by Shell 35 MEN'S FASHION SPECIAL Margaret Howell, Oliver Spencer and the duo behind b Store on the z fine art of menswear; hot summer o o z styles; the boater race; and how to 9 dress like Johnny Depp. Plus, win o~ !Q a Hugo Boss suit z :::; w~ w~ ~U REGULARS Ol (j .. 5 UP FRONT C ~ Eva Wiseman; Katharine Whitehorn; o I'" V> Sandie Shaw's life lessons; Zandra 'i: z Rhodes's week; the Lust List; and '"Ol Ol Ali Smith goes back to the beginning o'" z'" 54 FOOD AND DRINK '"UI '::l Nigel Slater is in pastures new; and o o Jay Rayner is at the St John Hotel iii Ol o 58 LIFE Z ~'" Dan Pearson takes you into the '"I V> Chelsea Flower Show; and Martin ci Love is blown away by VW's Eos '"o it z 64 TRAVEL ~ Thessaloniki's secret history I ~Q. 70 DEAR MARl ELLA '"g Mariella Frostrup manages o I Q. a mother's disappointment UJ ~ V> ~ Z ~ CONTRIBUTORS V> I iQ ~'" w :;E '"

BARBARA ELLEN KEVIN FOORD EDVULLIAMY The Observer's acerbic columnist Kevin is a fashion photogTapher The most tenacious of reporters, started out at the NME and Loaded ... whose work has appeared in GQ, Ed's latest book is Amexica about the so she was the perfect writer to Harpers and i-D. This week, he shot Mexican drug wars. Here, he sniffs interview the Arctic Monkeys our fashion fiesta in Mexico out trouble on Ireland's west coast

Editor Ruarldh Nicoli Deputy editor Emma John Art director Rob Blddulph Commissioning editors Alice Asher. Eva Wiseman Editorial assistant/researcher Shahesta Shaltly Fashion editor JoJones Deputy fashion editor Helen Seamons Chief sub-editor Martin Love Deputy chief sub-editors Leah Jewett. Debbie Lawson Sub-editors Kate Edgley, Helen Wigmore Deputy art director Caroline McGivern Picture editors Kit Burnet, Matthew Glynn Colour Reproduction GNM Imaging The Observer Magazine Kings Place, 90 York Way, London N19GU Tel 020 3353 2000 Fax 020 3353 3197 Emali [email protected],ukTwltter@lObsMagazine Photograph Murdo Macleod

Shell's battle for the heart of Ireland For generations, the people of have been farming and fishing along the remote coast of .When gas was discovered offshore, Shell pounced. But it hadn't bargained for the unyielding resistance of the community. Eel Vulliamy reveals how the protest spiralled out of control to become "a Local Hero gone wrong"

"I'd be a fella who loved a quiet life": fisherman Pat O'Donnell with his daughter Alsllng atGlenamoy

They thought" they'd break our spirit. Idon't think they realised what kind of people they were dealing with "

f the sea is calm, you can hear refinery at Ballinaboy, six miles south of the villageofInver,who isone ofthe protest's most the traffic in New York," goes estuary. The pipe is to come ashore at Broad- outspoken voices, says: "This is about a sense the local introduction to the haven Bay'swidest and loveliest point, and was of place and its people. We may not qualify as breathtaking beauty of En'is, to skirt the estuary's northern shore, through indigenous people, but we have our land and in the north of County Mayo, farmland. "There's miles of empty bog out culture, to which we belong. All those people where the coastline winds its there," says John Monaghan, one of the lead- who emigrated from Erris through history, way through little coves and ers of the ensuing protest, "and they chose to Erris never left them. They saywe are opposed beneath the cliffs of the wild take it across the farms. Where there are farms to progress, and laugh at us.But to me,progTess seaboard at Europe's edge. there are farmhouses, and where there are is the ability to sustain yourself, and those Most nights, though, Manhat- farmhouses there are families." who come after you. It's nature and nurture: tan must be quiet, for the only audible sounds The arguments were made: successive what we here call muinhin, which means of are the distant baying of a dog several miles government ministers insisted that what the place, and cointeann, which means to get away,the soft bleating ofnewborn lambs from became known asthe Corrib gas projectwould a little awkward when that place and its people lush coastal meadows and the sighing of the decrease Irish dependency on imported Scot- are about to be torn apart." brine as it moves across rocks and shingle. tish gas and provide up to 60% of Ireland's There had been a choice in Ireland about Soon,however, this deep peace will be shat- needs at peak periods. On the other side, there what to do with the "new frontier" - abundant tered forever. "And this is where it all began," were immediate environmental concerns: natural gas offits western shores. There were says , standing in his farmyard Broadhaven Bayand nearby Carrowmore Lake two models: that ofthe Norwegians, who guru:- atop fields that tumble down to the estuary of are EU-designated Special Protection Areas; anteed a state-owned stake in exploitation and Sruwaddacon. Corduff's family have farmed the lake, near the refinery, provides drinking quota for domestic consumption, and that of here for generations. "It's been hard," he says, water. There were concerns about poten- British NOithSeagas,where profitswere largely "but we've made a living doing a little bit of tial explosions and the initial high pressure spirited awaybymultinational companies. The everything, you know - a little suckling, a little (345 bar) at which the gas would be piped Norwegian model was favoured by the Irish silage, a little hay."Now that way oflife stands ashore, and the factthat, asraw gas,it contained minister for industry and commerce duringthe to be destroyed, along with that of Corduff's impurities, and would be corrosive. And there 1970s,Justin Keating, who judged that Britain neighbours, who fish the Atlantic waters as were issues ofhistory and community. waswastingresources while NOlwaywassecur· their forefathers have for centuries. Right , a retired teacher in the ing its future. But the tide turned, as Keating's across the estuary from Corduff's farm, where notions ofstate responsibility were swept aside meadows and bog once came down to the byenthusiasm forthe freemarket and Mru'garet sands, diggers now chug and churn the earth Thatcher's handling ofNorth Seagas. and security men strut behind the reinforced In 2000, Enterprise began digging holes for fencing in fluorescent "hi-viz" jackets. After the pipeline through farmland in , dusk has fallen, what was once the pure dark- and was grru1tedplanning permission by Mayo ness of night is pierced by floodlights. A mile County Council for the refinery at Ballinaboy. behind this "exempted development" that The following year the Irish government needs no planning permission, a refinery has awarded itself the right to statutorily acquire been built, heavily guarded, a gash across the the private land it needed - the first consent land inflicted by lights, concrete, fencing and orders issued by former minister Frank Fahey those ubiquitous fluorescent jackets. The Shell on election day in May 2002. oil company has come to Erris - and how. Enterprise, and later Shell, had courted "It was a Scottish fellow came one morn- Irish politicians - and the affair was recipro- ing," says COl'duff,"And you know, it was the cated, with entertainment for oil executives arrogance that triggered me off.There was no in Fianna Fail tents at Galway races - but j asking. He told me what was going to happen, everyone in the loop was dealt a blow when taking me for a fool." County Mayo's permission for the terminal In 1996,a reserve of gas had been found 50 was appealed to the national planning board, miles offshore by a consortium called Enter- Bord Pleanlila. The planning inspector, Kevin prise Energy Ireland and a major stake was Moore, recommended refusal, concluding bought by Shell in2002. The plan has been to that: "From a strategic planning perspective, bring raw,untreated gas ashore by pipe, to the this is the wrong site. From the perspective of

28 MAGAZINE I 29,05,11 I THE OBSERVER' This land Is our land: (above) pipeline refused to admit Shell on to their land. "I think language television service and whose uncle protesters Willie and Mary Corduff at the they thought they could break our spirit;' he farms sheep and cattle between Inver and the quay at Rossport and, left, security guards says. "I don't think they realised what kind of Erris coastline. He was appalled by the way in attempt to move an anti-Shell activist people they were dealing with. I think they which many of his peers reported the story: thought we were farmers with 2,000 acres "There was a culture of 'don't rock the boat' government policy which seeks to foster bal- driving Jeeps, not people struggling on a little - the media had got caught up in the Celtic anced regional development, this is the wrong bit of bog, making it greener by the yard with Tiger business, ready to round on anyone who siteoFrom the perspective ofminimising envi- a shovel."Corduffkeeps his cloth cap on as we criticised development, or deregulation - in ronmental impact, this is the wrong site; and retreat to the kitchen of his farmhouse, where this case, anyone who questioned what was consequently: from the perspective ofsustain- he explains how he became one of the first of happening to my uncle's community!' able development this is the wrong site." many to go to jail. The Pipe, says O'Domhnaill, "is Local Hero Enterprise Oilwas taken over by Shell soon In April 2005, Shell secured interlocutory gone wrong" - it is also a vivid, close-range after, and the minutes ofameeting ofthe com- orders against those refusing to let company narrative of a battle unfolding, and a cruel pany's managing directors laid out a plan for agents on to their land. On 29 June, fivepeople, parable of our times. how to deal with Moore's objections. "The includingCorduff, were arrested and tried for "People talk about us as though we want Committee", read the minutes, "queried contempt of the order, and jailed for 94 days. to be going back to the Stone Age," says Cor- whether the Group had sufficiently well- ''When the judge said I was going to jail," says duff. "But those people who farmed here with placed contacts with the Irish government Corduff, "what little bit of hair that's upon my a donkey and cart and abucket, they handed it and regulators" and "undertook to explore this head was sticking up on end." on to their children. If this thing goes ahead, issue further". In December 2003, Shell went we won't be able to do that. They say we're back to Mayo Council and residents again CORDUFF AND HIS colleagues became standing in the way of progress, but what is appealed to the Bord Pleamila.This time anew known as the "", and the case of it we're standing in the way of? We're stand- director approved the plan. Shell's Corrib pipeline became a cause celebre ing in the way of the place being polluted and Farmers across whose land the pipe was due across Ireland. Now,the story of the uprising destroyed by Shell,that's what. They say we're to run were offered compensation. Some took that followedhasbeen made intoafilm,ThePipe, enjoying ourselves with this protest. But we're it, but six owners of small holdings along the which is picking up worldwide awards, with not - it's aterrible sadness, the whole thing." route refused - one of them was Willie Cor- queues around the blockto watch screenings in The imprisonment ofthe RossportFive and duff.In response, the Irish government passed, Bucharest, Phoenix, Boston,SanFrancisco and nationwide demonstrations in support ofthem in 2005, the first ever legislation allowing NewYork- aswell asGalwayand London. led to the formation ofShell To Sea.One ofthe a private corporation the same rights of com- The director is Risteard O'Domhnaill, just most prominent figures in the protest alliance pulsory purchase afforded to a state agency. past 30 years old, who at first covered the is Maura Harrington, who spent a month in Still Corduff and his fellow small farmers dispute as a news cameraman for the Irish- jail for slapping a police officer in the face. On >

PHOTOGRAPHS MURDO MACLEOD FOR TIlE OBSERVER THE OBSERVER I 29,05,11 I MAGAZINE 29 " Route of gas pipeline The people who farmed BROADHAVEN ATLANTIC o C E A N here with donkeys and Porturlin ·..,· ···..BAY·1 • carts handed the land --·-··· .. ~.Rossport Belmullet ., .. on to their children. We S L I G 0 I Ballinaboy won't be able to do that CARROWMORE LAKE IRELAND " MAYO o 10 Miles another occasion, she says: "I refused to pay in Ireland," and that gas cannot be exported navyarrive to ensure the Solitaire'sway. a fine, went to jail for 13days and saved myself to the UK because the pipe runs one way; but They call O'Donnell "The Chief" for miles ¤2,700." When a first attempt was made to lay O'Domhnaill insists that "there's no compul- around the lovely hamlet ofPorturiin where the pipe at sea, Harrington went on hunger sion on them to serve Irish interests; in the end, he lives, and it is quite an honour to clamber strike for 10days. they can sell it wherever they like,at whatever aboard the John Michelle with him. "IfI lived "My mother was one of the few women for price they like - that's how it is with the multi- to be 100, I'd never sell this boat," says the the time to have gone to the University of Gal- national oil companies." Chief. "This is history, this boat. way, and my father was a trade union man, so In June 2008, the Irish government gave "I was born in 1957," says Pat, "second he'd have been politically aware:' she says, by Shell permission to begin laying its pipeline youngest of 11children. All my sisters emi- way of introduction over a pub dinner in the at sea and the biggest pipe-laying vessel in the grated to the United States at a young age,but homely Western Strands Hotel near Belmul- world, the Solitaire, arrived to do so.The chal- we fiveboys stayed behind to fish, for the sea let. "So I'd have been brought up this way... lenge to this colossus by a fisherman named has been good to our family. I tried a while in Butin the end the cause of Shell To Seais bru- Pat O'Donnell, his family and supporters, London, in construction, but had to come back tally simple: to oppose an assault on the air,the bobbing about on the ocean with the bows of - I missed the sea; I'd known at a young age land, the sea and its people - and on the nation the Solitaire towering above, makes for the what I wanted to do for the rest of my life,and ofIreland. Shell tries to obfuscate things with most compelling and heart-breaking passage my oldest, Jonathan, was skipper of his own environmental-impact statements and spin, in O'Domhnaill's film. boat aged 15- he's 26 now." but in the end it comes to this: will the traitors The fishermen's battle against Shell begins He continues: "I'd be a fella who loved who govern this country allow such an assault heart-warminglywith O'Donnell saying to the a quiet life," but that aspiration ended after to succeed, or willwe stop it?Willraw gascome camera: "Isn't it a lovely sight when you see all the fishermen's group he initially mobilised ashore to be refined and sold abroad to enrich the fishermen together and fighting for the against Shell commissioned a scientist at a multinational corporation, or will it not? In one thing?" But soon, it becomes a battle that Southampton University, Dr Alex Rogers, to aworld ofspin and virtuality,this isallvery real turns fisherman against fisherman, as Shell survey the impact the pipeline would have on - I don't want to sound all Marie Antoinette, offers money to those prepared to relinquish their livelihoods, the stocks at sea. Dr Rogers but when you are living close to the land, air their fishing rights. concluded pessimistically,and, saysO'Donnell, and sea,you are living in the real world." The scene climaxes with a remarkable piece "after all I'd read about Shell in Nigeria, who'd Not everyone in the community opposed of reaI-life action cinema as O'Donnell- in his want them here aswell?"He joined the protest the project, as Shell and the Irish govern- little fishing boat, the John Michelle - and tVI'O movement blockading the contract workers' ment point out. Father Kevin Hegarty of the other ships confront the immense Solitairebow access to the refinery site. neighbouring parish of Kilmore draws on tobow."I've aright to fishhere:' saysO'Donnell "'People have the right to go to work: we a line from The Playboy of the Western World- of his lobster pots, but warships of the Irish kept being told, but Pat O'Donnell and his son, set in these parts - to describe O'Domhnaill's film: "'It's a great story and he tells it lovely, but he doesn't tell the whole story. I'd say the majority of this community supports the project. It's a way to provide employment and an opening towards the development of sustainable fuels in Ireland." (Father Kevin's colleague Fr Michael Nallen, in Kilcommon itself, opposed the pipeline.) There is argument over how many jobs the project would create: a spokeswoman for Shell, Denise Horan, says 450 people are cur- rentlyemployed, with "several hundred" more jobs to come with the building ofthe pipeline. "When the project is in operation, there will be approximately 130full-time jobs:' she says. There is also some debate as to how much the gas will benefit Ireland. Ms Horan says: "All the gas from the Corrib field will be consumed

30 MAGAZINE I 29.05.11 I THE OBSERVER SHELL IN IRELAND

Standing firm: (above) campaigner John firm contracted by Shell haveboth vehemently bad-tempered rupture of the vulnerable - Monaghan, near where the pipe will come denied involvement in the sinking ofthe boat. neighbour pitched against neighbour - when ashore. Facing page, top: a map of the affected Barrister Brian Barrington investigated the faced by the giant. area and, below, a stili from the film, The Pipe incident and that said as the boat was sunk at Monaghan grew up in Nottingham, but sea it was impossible to verify the claim, "came back in the 1980s, to the family roots. who have the right to fish at sea under a min- And it's changed even since then. When I came isteriallicence were arrested for setting their ON THE SHORELINE at Glengad, above back, they were still bringing in turfby horse pots;' he fumes, "I'd never think I'd see the day 's widest sweep, is the spot and cart. Now, the Celtic Tiger has come and when the Irish navy would turn its guns on where the pipe hits landfall. Above this wild, gone, and attitudes have changed - more self- Irish citizens fishing Irish waters, for the sake wondrous foreshore is a standing stone circle. ishness, boom or bust. Bust, as it turned out. of a British and Dutch company." "It goes back to the first farmers on this land, Shell is riding the tiger's back, the idea that O'Donnell served two jail sentences total- and beyond," says O'Domhnaill aswe clamber greed is good, all development is good, end of ling seven months, only to watch most of the up the hill for abetter view ofthe ocean sweep. story, no questions asked." other members of his protest flotilla take This is where the pipe will come ashore, after Corrib, says Monaghan, "is an entirely new Shell's silver,one by one. "One of them turned which it will run overland beside the stone approach - the 'sub-sea tie-back' system that his boat into a portable toilet for men work- circle, beneath the estuary to Rossport, and brings in dirty gas and refines it ashore. And ing on the jack-up rigs. How low can you get? journey overland to the refinery. It ishere that the idea ofcompulsory purchase orders by the What away for agood fishing boat to be ending Shell has been obliged to reduce the high pres- private sector is also totally new. Also,I won- up, shifting shit for Shell!" sure at which the gas will come ashore, but der if they've figured a worst-case scenario On 11June 2009, O'Domlell claims his other those who live here remain exposed to what into their risk-assessment calculations, as I'd boat, Iona Isle,was boarded offthe western tip they believe - despite Shell's assurances to always do as a civilengineer. I was open to the ofBroadhaven Bayby "four masked men with the contrary - is the weakest joint, and most idea at first, but we never got a glimpse of the guns, who went down below. All I could see potentially dangerous point, in the process. reality. There's been zero accountability." was their eyes and their mouths. They came Above the site and just below the stone O'Domhnaill's film, as it reaches critical up some minutes later, vanished and I noticed circle is the home of John Monaghan, who mass, becomes a vortex of images of how the the boat was water- heavy. I put out a Mayday formed a group that split from 's pipeline's route has been forged: police offic- call and had 20 minutes to get into my lifecraft. absolute opposition, supporting instead ers and security men confronting protesters I wasn't right for a good while after, for it's acompromise route, proposed by local priests, and their sympathisers at every turn. a terrible thing for a fisherman to lose his boat across open, uninhabited bog at Glinsk, to "We keep being told 'the law must be in such an attack. I tried to get insurance, but the north. Its name was Pobal Chill Chomain, upheld,'" says Monaghan. "But whose law? the broker told me I wasn't covered for acts of People ofKilcommon. The rift is plain to see Shell's law. It might be called the law, but it's terrorism." The police and the IRMS security in O'Domhnaill's movie: the sad, inevitable, not justice. There is no way we can get justice. >

PHOTOGRAPH MURDO MACLEOD FOR THE OBSERVER THE OBSERVER I 29,05,11 I MAGAZINE 31 SHELL IN IRELAND We keep" being told the law must be upheld. But whose law? Shell's law "

Even ifthere's ajudicial review,we're liable for Fenced In: security Is tight as the pipe Is laid to the right oftenants to buy their land. costs if we lose, and they'd break us. The law under the fields of local farms Erris is steeped, then, in the ravages and is that whoever has the money gets their way. resistances ofIrish history, so the protesters Lookat them! Navywarships patrolling, people photographing them. Now I think that ifI was are even more aware than most Irishmen and coming up the beach from inflatables, moving to be filming children undressing on a beach, women that the centenary of the 1916Easter through the village with video cameras film- I might be ending up on the front page of atab- Risingis nigh. Forthem, the moment ischarged ingus, police officers beating people up, Jeeps loid newspaper. But no - they can do what they with meaning. There is a heart-wrenching roaring around with number plates removed wish, with impunity. Going around in balacla- passage in O'Domhnaill's film when Pat and no tax discs. And that's the law? If there's vas, no ID,they even have gloved hands, Jesus O'Donnell, arrested, removes and furls the one thing I've learned from all this, it's that you can't even tell the colour of their skin - tricolour from the aft of his fishing boat. "The justice and the law are mutually exclusive." and they're very cosy with the Garda." When principles of the tricolour were wiped out "The Garda?" Corduff asks."We put trust in Henry tried to file a complaint at Belmullet when they did that to us:' spits the Chief now. them, used to have craic with them, our kids police station, "the Super said he felt bad as "People died for that flag and its principles, used to stay over at theirs. Now,if the children a family man, like, but there was nothing he and if those men knew what was happening see a squad car or a paddy wagon, they'll be could do, it was out ofhis hands. When I made now,they'd be turning in their graves." running offinto the bog. That's a sad thing." my statement about harassment, I didn't get "I was in the third boat behind the Chief The fenced-in work beneath Monaghan's so much as the courtesy of a reply from the that day:' saysJohn Monaghan. "When he took house is another "exempted development" Garda" - though he did secure back the pic- down the tricolour, I felt it, too: they betray without planning permission - which Shell tures of his grandchildren changing clothes. everything that was said in the proclamation argues is unnecessary anyway, as the pipe "It makes me wonder: who are these people ofl916, and the constitution. Then the guard follows a route authorised at ministerial level. invading our lives and filming our children?" puts his hand on the Chief's shoulder and says: Even so,disruption tothe familyofColmHenry, Ms Horan of Shell said: "We reject the sug- 'I'm arresting you now, lad! It's a seemingly afew fieldsalongfrom Monaghan, has been, he gestions of heavy-handedness by the security kind gesture, but it's the kiss ofJudas." says,vulgar and extreme. company. IRMS is areputable company. Their Mary Corduff, Willie's wife, laments that: Henry is a soft-spoken man who plays coun- staff are trained to deal professionally with "Everyone knew that a certain amount of try music in a band which tours Ireland and protesters and show them respect." She added: money would split people, especially in a poor the UK.His walls are hung with Native Amer- "The main reason we need to have security on community." None of those who took money ican artefacts he brought back from visits to this project is to allow our employees to go from Shell are willing to talk publicly. One Arizona. "It's the most unspoilt stretch on the about their legitimate work and to protect man, who sold land for road widening, said west coast," says his gracious wife Gabrielle, our sites and our equipment." Staff had been simply, as we chatted in a Spar petrol station: peeling potatoes. "There aren't even many "verbally abused, intimidated and prevented "It's best ifI'm not making abig thing ofit all." tourists, and when they do find it, we ask from entering their place of work. On one "People still talk to each other:' continues them: 'Please don't tell anyone.'" "We used to night alone, in 2009, ¤75,000 of damage was Mary, "but it's not the same as before Shell go about our business in peace - we were left done!' IRMS was not answering its tele-phone came.Allwe do now is talk, sleep and eat Shell. alone,"saysHenry, "and we would be using the in County Kildare last week. Youput up another Christmas tree, and allthat beach in all weathers, swimming in summer The question of official policing of the has happened since you put up the last one is and walking in winter." Corrib pipeline by the Garda made front- Shell, Shell, Shell.We haven't the life we used When Shell's security dispatch invaded page headlines again last month, when tapes to, when between Christmas trees you'd hope Glengad, they did so "with van loads of men", emerged ofGarda officersjoking about raping to be getting in a bit of silage and have some recalls Henry. ''Allnightlongthere were heavy- women protesters. Demonstrations culmi- hay drying." duty lights directed at our home - even with nated in one outside the Garda station at the John Monaghan looks back a couple of the curtains drawn the house was illuminated. Mayo County seat of Castlebar, home town of weeks to "a day when we were coming out You had 50 cars and vans outside, floodlights the new Taoiseach, . One of the of the depths of winter; the sun was shining and acameraman sitting on the mound filming shamed officers had been transferred here, to through the window, the kids getting ready us in our house and on our own land!' a desk job. It was fitting that the demonstra- for school. It all looked so beautiful, the shore The worst intrusions came, says Henry, tion was held in Castlebar, for it was here that down there, the sea and a blue sky - but there "when they started filming the children Michael Davitt, the son of Mayo who inspired they were: the Jeeps, the jackets, the cops, the walking on their own family land. My grand- the protest movement, formed the Land navy, the choppers and diggers. This is deep children went to play on the beach; they'd be League in 1879.Davitt mounted a highly effec- stuff, it spoils the sunshine" .• changing to swim, when the security would be tive campaign against big landowners, leading The Pipe is on More4 on 14June at lOpm

PHOTOGRAPH MURDO MACLEOD FOR THE OBSERVER THE OBSERVER I 29,05,11 I MAGAZINE 33