The Ol’ Pioneer The Magazine of the Grand Canyon Historical Society

Volume 23 : Number 2 www.GrandCanyonHistory.org Spring 2012

In This Issue

That’s One Small Step…in the Grand Canyon ...... 3

Louis Schellbach Logs: 5 ...... 12 President’s Letter The Ol’ Pioneer The Magazine of the It was great seeing everybody at the rim in January for the third Grand Can- Grand Canyon Historical Society yon History Symposium! It was a truly wonderful event. Each day, the program Volume 23 : Number 2 (and the auditorium) was packed with interesting presentations that covered Spring 2012 everything from rim to river and the ancient past to fairly recent events. And when the presentations were not in session, there was a constant swirling of u shared ideas, passionate debate, story swapping, the renewal of old friendships The Historical Society was established and the formation of new ones. As a long-time reader and researcher of canyon in July 1984 as a non-profit corporation history, it was amazing to see so many well-known and respected writers, his- to develop and promote appreciation, torians, and canyon residents all gathered together under one roof – a historic understanding and education of the event in its own right. earlier history of the inhabitants and important events of the Grand Canyon. I have said it before, but I want to say it one last time… this symposium could not have been done without a tremendous amount of passion, enthusi- The Ol’ Pioneer is published by the asm, resources, brain power and elbow grease from the numerous volunteers. GRAND CANYON HISTORICAL The symposium was planned, coordinated, and operated entirely by volunteers SOCIETY in conjunction with The many of whom probably put in well over a hundred hours apiece over the last Bulletin, an informational newsletter. Both publications are a benefit of year. Even now with the symposium completed, work is still continuing on a membership. Membership in the Society symposium proceedings publication which should be out by the end of the year. is open to any person interested in the The symposium also could not have been done without the excellent coopera- historical, educational, and charitable tion of the society’s partners who contributed people, expertise and resources – purposes of the Society. Membership is notably the Grand Canyon Association, Grand Canyon National Park, Xanterra on an annual basis using the standard calendar; and dues of $25 are payable on South Rim, Xanterra Grand Canyon Railway and Northern Arizona University the 1st of January each year, and mailed Cline Library Special Collections. And lastly, I would like to thank those people to the GCHS Treasurer, PO Box 31405 whose generous donations to the symposium helped fund the numerous start- Flagstaff, AZ 86003-1405. The Ol’ Pioneer ing and material expenses that would have proven very challenging otherwise. magazine is copyrighted by the Grand To all of you, I would like to say a big THANK YOU. Canyon Historical Society, Inc. All rights reserved. No part of this publication I would also like to extend a warm welcome to our new members (we picked may be reproduced or used in any form up quite a few during and after the symposium). I think you will find that the without permission of the publisher. society embodies much of the same passion for canyon history, opportunities for learning and sharing, and informal camaraderie that marked the sympo- Editor: Mary Williams sium. I would strongly recommend that you check out our society website Submit photos and stories to the editor of The Ol’ Pioneer at: info@ (http://www.grandcanyonhistory.org/index.html) where you will find useful marywilliamsdesign.com or 4880 N information about the society, events and outings, and back issues of the Ol Weatherford Road, Flagstaff, AZ 86001. Pioneer. Be sure to mark the annual Shoshone Point picnic on your calendars for (928) 779-3377. Please submit written July and browse the awesome new official society t-shirts and other GCHS gear articles and photos electronically on CD featuring the logos designed by James Hayford (you can reach the society store or via email if possible. You may mail photos or slides for scanning if needed. through the ‘Shop’ link on the website). As always, I welcome suggestions and comments from old and new members alike. Submissions to The Bulletin should be sent to Karen Greig, [email protected] Erik Berg GCHS President GCHS Officers Erik Berg, President John Azar, Vice President Keith Green, Treasurer Tom Martin, Secretary Amy Horn, Pioneer Award Al Richmond, Awards Chair Paul Schnur, Membership Committee COVER: Buzz Aldrin and Neil Armstrong during geological training in West Texas near the John Azar, Outings Coordinator ruins of Fort Quitman, February 24, 1969. Photograph courtesy of the National Aeronautics and Space Administration Board of Directors Howard Asaki Amy Horn John Azar Tom Martin The Ol’ Pioneer submission deadlines are going to be roughly January 1, April Erik Berg Mona McCroskey Ellen Brennan 1, July 1, and October 1 and we will publish either three or four issues a year, Tom Martin Kathy Faretta Carol Naille depending on content volume. Keith Green Wayne Ranney Karen Greig Paul Schnur 2 : Grand Canyon Historical Society That’s One Small Step…in the Grand Canyon by Don Lago now had the right to claim that their The military pilots who responded system was superior. Kennedy’s to America’s call for astronauts readily hen Neil Armstrong speech, delivered only six weeks after felt the importance of national pride climbed down the ladder Yuri Gagarin’s flight, placed the moon and technological superiority and of the Eagle and took the goal almost entirely within the context exploring frontiers. They did not feel firstW human footsteps on the moon, of proving national superiority: “If we the call of geology. The astronauts his footstep contained thousands of are to win the battle that is going on were the knights of the Right Stuff, the footsteps he had taken into the Grand around the world between freedom daring masters of the most roaring, Canyon. When Armstrong picked up and tyranny, if we are to win the soaring, cutting-edge technology. the first moon rock, he saw it with in- battle for men’s minds, the dramatic Collecting rocks was for nerds. sights he had picked up in the Grand achievements in space which occurred Besides, in the first years of America’s Canyon. in recent weeks should have made space program, the astronauts were Five years previously, in March clear to us all, as did the Sputnik in seriously preoccupied with matters of 1964, the crew of Apollo 11—Neil 1957, the impact of this adventure on life and death. The astronauts needed Armstrong, Buzz Aldrin, and Michael the minds of men everywhere who are to learn how to fly new, complicated, Collins—had spent two days hiking to attempting to make a determination dangerous spacecraft, how to respond the bottom of the Grand Canyon and of which road they should take.” to a thousand emergencies that could back up. They were part of the first After Kennedy announced the goal ruin a mission or kill them. The of three groups of astronauts to make of “landing a man on the Moon and astronauts had to train for survival this hike. All but one of the twenty- returning him safely to the Earth,” his in case their capsules crashed in four astronauts who journeyed to the next line was “No single space project remote deserts or jungles or seas. The moon hiked into the canyon. in this period will be more impressive astronauts were also assigned duties The March 1964 hike into the to mankind…”1 to help design and test spacecraft Grand Canyon was the first event in Privately, Kennedy had been and other equipment. The astronauts a new NASA program to train the alarmed by the audacity of such a goal, didn’t have enough time for life-or- astronauts in geology. This hike also and he’d asked his advisors if there death training. Knowing about the served a larger purpose: to inspire were some other—and cheaper— origin or mineral composition of the astronauts to take an interest in technological goal at which the United moon rocks wouldn’t help astronauts geology. When the astronauts were States might prove its superiority. No land on moon rocks. first told that they would need to one could assure Kennedy that a moon While the astronauts were study geology, many were openly landing was even possible. But the preoccupied with the piloting hostile to the idea. moon goal did appeal to Kennedy’s challenge, much of the rest of NASA When President John F. Kennedy personal taste for adventure and viewed the Apollo program as stood before a joint session of Congress bravado; five years later this bravado an engineering challenge. Tens of on May 25, 1961 and committed the would lead Kennedy’s brother, thousands of engineers, under high nation to going to the moon, Kennedy Senator Robert Kennedy, to ignore pressure from deadlines and budgets, did not say anything about going to the strong warnings of his raft guide had to come up with new ideas and the moon to study geology. Everyone and jump into the Colorado River in materials and designs, test them, and understood that Americans were the Grand Canyon and swim through redesign them. Hundreds of thousands going to the moon as an assertion of a dangerous rapid. And President of components had to be integrated national pride. American national Kennedy did recognize the importance perfectly, and any one component pride had been deeply wounded by of exploration and the frontier in might trigger the difference between the Soviet launch of Sputnik in 1957, the American psyche. He called his success or failure, life or death. For the and it was wounded anew when the administration “the New Frontier,” engineers the whole point of Apollo Soviets launched the first human into which invoked the glamour of the was to build a successful machine. The space on April 12, 1961. A central space frontier. After citing how the astronauts were there to prove that it element of American national identity moon goal would be “more impressive was a successful machine. It hardly was that Americans were superior to mankind,” Kennedy added that mattered what the astronauts did at exploration and technology. it was also “more important for the when they got to the moon. The first Americans had long offered their long-range exploration of space.” But designs for the Apollo spacecraft made technological superiority as proof of in the American psyche, exploration no allowances for space or weight for the superiority of their democratic was more about national destiny than taking scientific instruments to the system. By this standard, the Soviets science. moon or for bringing moon rocks www.GrandCanyonHistory.org Grand Canyon Historical Society : 3 back to Earth. It was nearly a year astronauts in geology. At first this stuffiness out of them, and cure them after President Kennedy’s speech that was mainly classroom lectures, fifty- of their stereotypes that geologists NASA convened a meeting to consider eight hours of lectures. The astronauts were nerds. what kind of science the astronauts became restless, partly because they The geologists decided to kick off should do on the moon. were busy training for the Gemini their astronaut training with a hike For geologists, Apollo would be one program, which would not go to the into the Grand Canyon. The Grand of the greatest opportunities in the moon. Yet the geologists had already Canyon could teach some of the history of science. For ages humans discovered that the astronauts became basic principles of geology, especially had wondered about the moon, and much more interested in geology if it stratigraphy, the idea that older rocks now they would finally have a chance was taught in the real world. are lower down. The canyon could to examine it. For decades scientists In January 1963 geologist Eugene teach that erosion and faulting could had debated what the moon was made Shoemaker had made a trial run alter original, orderly strata. The of and how it had formed. They had at geology training by taking canyon contained all the basic types debated what the moon said about nine astronauts—including Neil of rocks. The canyon could teach the formation of Earth and the solar Armstrong—to Meteor Crater in geological map reading, high-altitude system. They had debated whether northern Arizona. It had been only photograph recognition, and long- lunar craters were formed by volcanic two years since Shoemaker and his distance descriptive accuracy. This eruptions or by asteroid impacts. Yet colleagues had proven that Meteor latter skill became more important many other scientists felt that the Crater was indeed a meteor crater, as the Apollo missions went on, geologists and their moon theories formed by a cosmic impact and not by as they went from landing in the were presumptuous, for the moon volcanic action. Meteor Crater was the blandest landscapes to landing amid did not belong to the realm of Geo, it best-preserved impact crater on Earth, mountains and valleys. Apollo 15 belonged to the realm of astronomy, and a natural classroom for showing landed right next to a deep, sinuous which couldn’t determine much about the astronauts the craters they would valley called Hadley Rille, which the distant rocks. encounter on the moon. A few dozen astronauts needed to look across and Even after President Kennedy miles west of Meteor Crater was a along and describe accurately, a skill pushed human hands towards the volcanic range that included 600 they had practiced at the canyon of the moon, geologists remained a small and dead volcanoes of various kinds, Little Colorado River near the Grand relatively powerless part of the Apollo and they offered a natural classroom Canyon. program. They had to push hard and for the volcanic features on the Yet the Grand Canyon was also long to get geology taken seriously, to moon. In the center of this volcanic an unlikely place to learn about the obtain NASA funding and facilities range was the town of Flagstaff, moon. The Grand Canyon was made and astronaut time and engineering where Lowell Observatory, proud of sedimentary rocks, and no one was planning. At least it seemed obvious of its discovery of Pluto, had spent expecting to find sedimentary rocks that after all the effort and money spent decades studying the planets and on the moon. The Grand Canyon to get astronauts to the moon, they moons while most other astronomers held ocean-deposited limestone full shouldn’t leave without taking a look had been preoccupied with stars of fossils, and sandstone piled up around. And geology could turn out and cosmology. An hour north of by winds, and it had been carved to be a matter of life or death. Cornell Flagstaff was the Grand Canyon, the by a powerful river, and no one was University astronomer Thomas Gold best display of sedimentary strata on expecting to find oceans or wind had theorized that the lunar surface Earth. Shoemaker was in charge of the or rivers or limestone or fossils on consisted of a thick layer of fluffy Apollo geology program and decided the moon. To teach the astronauts dust, into which a landing spacecraft to base it in Flagstaff, mainly because about stratigraphy it would have might sink and disappear. Other of all the nearby assets for hands-on been easier to go to a road cut on the scientists wondered if the lunar dust preparation for the moon. Shoemaker Interstate highway than to spend two might prove explosive when exposed had many other responsibilities, days hiking in and out of the Grand to oxygen from the lunar lander. Few including preparing maps and tools Canyon. geologists took these ideas seriously, and cameras and surface instruments The geologists did have other but NASA couldn’t afford to ignore for the moon, and planning and motives for selecting the Grand such possibilities. supervising the actual lunar field Canyon as their first training event. It was October 1963 before NASA work, so Shoemaker turned over They wanted grandeur, the greatest made an official commitment to most of the astronaut training to grandeur on Earth. They wanted to include geology on Apollo, but still other geologists. He placed in charge inspire the astronauts with the power there were no promises about what Dale Jackson, a former U. S. marine and beauty of geological forces. They this would involve. and veteran of the battle of Iwo Jima, wanted to make the point that doing NASA assigned the U. S. Geological whom Shoemaker hoped would hit it geology was a great adventure, Survey (USGS) the job of training the off with the astronauts, knock the right an adventure worthy of macho

4 : Grand Canyon Historical Society www.GrandCanyonHistory.org astronauts. Elbert King, one of the naturalist and had done important quickly gathered their luggage and geologists who went on the canyon geological field research there, and he climbed onto a bus, but Shepard and hikes, explained: “In addition, the was organizing a major conference on Carpenter took twenty minutes to Grand Canyon is such a scenic place Grand Canyon geology for later that extract themselves from the attention that we hoped to get even the most year. of the local officials, including reluctant astronaut students ‘hooked’ We are fortunate that the 1964 the president of the Chamber of on the charisma of geology and field Grand Canyon hikes were covered in Commerce, who required official work.”2 With so much NASA inertia detail by William Hoyt of the Flagstaff greetings and autographs and photo and resistance working against newspaper, the Arizona Daily Sun. poses. geology, the geologists needed to get Hoyt was very enthusiastic about “All were dressed,” William Hoyt the astronauts on their side. astronomy and space exploration, reported, “in unmarked jackets and The geologists also wanted to and he would soon start a career as slacks and their luggage consisted prove that it was indeed possible an important astronomy historian, of loaded backpacking gear for their to do realistic and valuable training writing books about Percival Lowell hike into the Canyon. Carpenter, the for the lunar surface. And for the and Mars; the discovery of Pluto; target of more than a dozen young scientists who scoffed at the idea of and the long controversies about the autograph seekers on hand at the “astrogeology” (the term the Apollo origin of Meteor Crater. Hoyt covered airport, was dressed…in blue denim geologists had chosen for their field), the astronaut hikes better than did jacket and pants.”3 The astronauts the geologists were glad to show that any other newspaper or magazine. had to provide their own boots, some this was not only a legitimate field The coverage in the Phoenix of which were ill-suited for a Grand but one that now had the power and newspaper, the Arizona Republic, Canyon hike. Carpenter wore white prestige of NASA behind it. was more in the spirit of celebrity tennis shoes on the hike. The geologists planned to spend gossip. Unfortunately, Hoyt left the The astronauts headed for the South a day taking the astronauts down Flagstaff newspaper in 1966, and the Rim and the Yavapai geology museum, the South Kaibab Trail. They would newspaper offered no coverage at all where Eddie McKee greeted them and separate into groups of two or three of the 1966 astronaut hike, though this gave them an hour-long orientation astronauts led by one geologist. was mainly because NASA did not about Grand Canyon geology, using a They’d spend the night at Phantom invite any reporters to cover that hike. large relief map to illustrate his points. Ranch and hike up the Bright Angel The first hike included half of the At 11 a.m. the astronaut groups Trail to Indian Garden, about half twelve astronauts who would later started down the trail, at five minute way up, and from there the astronauts walk on the moon: Neil Armstrong, intervals. At least they didn’t need to could ride mules the rest of the way Buzz Aldrin, Alan Bean, Eugene worry about heat; the temperature out. The astronauts were divided into Cernan, Dave Scott, and Alan Shepard. when they started out was a bit above two hikes, one on March 5-6 and the It also included three astronauts freezing. The Phoenix newspaper other on March 12-13, 1964. The first who would orbit the moon: Michael reported that “Jay Goza, chief wrangler hike included eighteen astronauts, Collins, William Anders, and Dick for the Grand Canyon mules, said ‘I two of them from the original seven Gordon. hope they aren’t afraid of high places.’ Mercury astronauts, Alan Shepard The astronauts were supposed Shepard assured Goza that they were and Scott Carpenter, plus two from to land at the town of Valle, which not.”4 the second group of astronauts, Neil held the airport nearest to the Grand Each astronaut was provided with Armstrong and Elliot See, plus all Canyon, but a snowstorm left its dirt an aerial photograph of the canyon of the third group. The second hike runway too muddy, so the astronauts so that they could try matching its included ten astronauts, four of them landed in Flagstaff instead, at 8 a.m. features with the landscape they saw Mercury astronauts, Gus Grissom, They arrived in two planes, one of before them, a skill that might prove Wally Schirra, Gordon Cooper, and them a scheduled Frontier Airlines useful when they were trying to Deke Slayton, plus the rest of the flight, a precaution against an accident recognize a planned landing site on second group. Two years later, on June wiping out most of the astronaut the moon, or when they landed in the 2-3, 1966, eighteen astronauts from the corps. About thirty local officials and wrong place and needed to figure out fourth and fifth groups hiked into the residents greeted them. The public where they really were—which would canyon. and press were mainly interested in indeed happen on Apollo 11. Some of the geologist-instructors Alan Shepard and Scott Carpenter, The hikers stopped frequently so were not sufficiently familiar with the only astronauts who had already that the geologist could point out types the Grand Canyon, so they did their flown in space—the first Gemini of rocks or large landscape features, own training hike on February 27- mission was still a year in the future. or talk about geological ideas. The 8, led by Eddie McKee. McKee, now The Phoenix newspaper wouldn’t geologists and astronauts carried rock with the USGS, had been a longtime even call the others “astronauts,” only hammers and had permission from the Grand Canyon National Park ranger- “new trainees.” Most of the astronauts National Park Service (NPS) to chip www.GrandCanyonHistory.org Grand Canyon Historical Society : 5 off rocks. The geologists tested their Apollo 11’s Michael Collins recalled: much more interesting than the “students” with questions, and they Our first geology trip was to the rocks. Some in our group, like were impressed by how fast and how Grand Canyon and was one of the Roger Chaffee, were becoming well the astronauts were learning. The most interesting, partly because damned good geologists, perhaps astronauts also practiced making field it was the first trip and partly because they truly enjoyed it or notes. because of the natural beauty and perhaps simply because they The hike took most of the day, and awesome grandeur of the place. were quick studies. However, I they arrived at Phantom Ranch fairly Of course, the idea was to give us never quite did get into the spirit late. When the hyper-competitive an opportunity to augment our of the thing, and spent as much Alan Shepard got within 100 yards of classroom knowledge with field time engaging in rock-throwing the guest cabins, he challenged NASA experience, to see not just a half- contests with Gene Cernan as I public affairs officer Paul Haney to pound chunk of 801 on a desk top, did filling my field notebook with a race, and Shepard won by a yard. but miles of it clearly delineated in maps of outcrops and such. Ranch manager Ben Clark reported a horizontal bed…About a dozen Our trip down into the canyon that they arrived “real good, with different rock formations have took nearly the whole day, so we nobody crippled up from hiking. But been exposed as the Colorado spent the night in a charming they were very hungry, believe me.” River cuts ever deeper into the inn at the bottom, and the next The hikers feasted on “a hefty amount” Arizona desert, crashing along morning those of us who wanted of roast beef, mashed potatoes, carrots nearly a mile below the rim… to rented burros for an expedited and peas, cake and coffee. “They As we descended the south rim ascent. I chose to ride, but picked were pretty serious young men,” along the famous Kaibab Trail, an animal which stopped walking reported Clark, “and very nice, and we examined and recorded whenever I stopped kicking, so they seemed to enjoy the Canyon very (“hypidiomorphic granular”) each I got as much exercise as if I had much. Both Astronaut Shepard and succeeding layer of rock, passing been afoot. I also had plenty of Astronaut Carpenter were particularly from the upstart limestones and time to contemplate the rapid pace enthusiastic about the Canyon.”5 sandstones through the older at which I was speeding toward This comment about Alan Shepard shales and finally, near the bottom, the moon. From supersonic jets didn’t recognize that Shepard was discovering very old rock, the at Edwards, I had progressed all and would remain one of the most tortured and baked Vishnu schist, the way to kicking a burro up out anti-geology astronauts. He may have over two billion years old. The of the Grand Canyon. Just as the enjoyed the Grand Canyon for the flaw in all this was that…the rocks jets had their tricks, so did this adventure of it, but the canyon didn’t we saw were sedimentary types, creature…I certainly was willing inspire him about geology. Some having been water-deposited, to share my burro with a deserving geologists would blame Shepard’s and many contained fossil plants scientist or two, provided they did lack of enthusiasm and preparation and animals, including shark their share of kicking and I got to for his failure to locate the crater that teeth. Of course in 1964 no one steer.7 was the main objective of one of his knew what rock types awaited Apollo 14 moonwalks. us on the moon, but no reputable Ten of the eighteen astronauts on the Yet for other astronauts, the Grand scientists believed we would find hike had visited the Grand Canyon Canyon worked its magic. Apollo 11’s sedimentary rock there...In fact, previously, as tourists, but only two of Buzz Aldrin wrote: we used to joke about carrying a them had hiked into it. One of them was There was a tendency among few fossils to the moon to mix in Neil Armstrong. In 1952 Armstrong most of us, myself included, with the lunar rock samples, and returned to the U.S. from air combat to regard the training rather I am surprised that no lunar crew duty in Korea and had a period of disdainfully, like going to camp. It has announced the discovery of a military leave. Earlier that year Neil didn’t take long, however, before fossil or two on the radio, just to had paid $2,000 in cash for his first car, I was a willing convert, especially shake up the geologists in Mission a new two-door Oldsmobile 88, the to the many geology field trips… Control. same model his father owned. Neil’s Geology opened my eyes to Nevertheless, it was a beautiful brother Dean traveled from Ohio to the immensity of time when one trip down in the Grand Canyon… California to join Neil, and they went day I found myself standing at we relaxed and chipped rocks on a long road trip that stretched the bottom of the Grand Canyon with our hammers, enjoyed from Canada to Mexico and included paying rapt attention as the the magnificent scenery, and ten national parks. They camped instructor talked about things wondered at the changing world out most of the time. At the Grand that took place eons before man we were entering…I confess that Canyon they hiked to the bottom and existed on this earth.6 on this trip—indeed all geology back out. This Grand Canyon hike trips—I found the flora and fauna may have been the highlight of their

6 : Grand Canyon Historical Society www.GrandCanyonHistory.org adventure. Armstrong probably was Armstrong did recognize his mount But Bean needed the Grand Canyon remembering that hike during his to be a mule and not a burro. Yet to help inspire him about geology. astronaut hike. Armstrong did feel Armstrong may have shared Michael Chaikin wrote: the charisma of the canyon and of Collins’s musings about the dubious …the future lunar explorers rocks. Armstrong became one of the trajectory of his career, from super jets were expected to learn geology. most eager geology students. Apollo to cranky mules. There is a photo of That meant hours of difficult historian Andrew Chaikin said: Armstrong riding his mule out of the lectures and laboratory exercises For years, the geologists had canyon, and he does not appear to be on subjects such as rock and the feeling that Armstrong was very inspired. mineral classification. Strange genuinely interested, and that he Also on the hike was Eugene Cernan, as it may seem, Bean had never was picking up more than most of who would be the commander heard of terms like “aphanitic the other pilots; Armstrong turned of Apollo 17 and the last man on vesicular basalt” or “plagioclase in an excellent performance on the the moon. To my inquiry, Cernan feldspar phenocryst.” Now he moon. In the postflight briefings answered: was expected to make them part he was full of detailed comments The intent was to walk through of his working vocabulary. But on what he had seen, and he made the millennium of time that was there was good news, too: field clear the potential for a scientific exposed in the walls of the Grand trips to spectacular places like the observer on the moon.8 Canyon from top to bottom where Grand Canyon, where a billion the Colorado River now flows to years of history were written in I was told this again in a conversation get a better understanding not layers of rock.11 with Gordon Swann, one of the leaders just about geology or the geologic of the geology training. Swann wasn’t times that were evident, but as well The astronaut who became most on the 1964 hikes but did conduct to get a feeling for the enormous devoted to geology was Dave Scott; briefings with Armstrong. Swann said impact of nature…It was a day- his enthusiasm helped motivate his that Armstrong was more motivated long trip from top to bottom and fellow Apollo 15 crewmembers, Jim and perceptive than most of the back up to the top again. What I Irwin and Al Worden, to take geology astronauts, and Swann wished that remember very vividly is that all seriously. They needed to do so, for Apollo 11 had been able to spend more of us in the group walked down to their mission was the first mission time on the moon so that Armstrong the River and most of us, but not with a multi-day stay on the moon, could have done more geology. all, walked all the way up. Those a lunar rover for more extensive In response to my inquiry, Neil who didn’t, chose to ride on the travel, and nearly twenty hours for Armstrong responded with an e-mail back of a burro. Those who chose science on the ground. When NASA recollection of his Grand Canyon hike: to walk up were probably the planners were debating where Apollo more competitive of our group. 15 should land on the moon, Scott I do remember the trip (it was Although I couldn’t tell you by argued for a more difficult landing my second trip to the bottom), name who they were, but yes, I site, Hadley Rille, because it offered staying at the lodge at the bottom, was one of them.10 the best geology. When the HBO mini- riding out the Bright Angel series “From the Earth to the Moon” trail on mules (I walked out the Another astronaut on the hike was devoted one episode to lunar geology, first time), and studying the Alan Bean, who walked on the moon it was centered on Dave Scott. stratigraphy…I thought all the on Apollo 12 and who later became Scott was on the first Grand Canyon ‘students’ in the geology field trips a full-time painter, painting scenes hike. Andrew Chaikin wrote: took the opportunity to making it from the Apollo missions, including Early on, Scott had shown more a true learning experience. They scenes of astronauts doing geology on enthusiasm for geology than most recognized that their proficiency the moon. In 1998 Bean and Andrew of the pilots. He’d long harbored in this subject (generally not Chaikin published a book about an interest in archaeology; as a previously known to them) might Bean’s art, and in the introduction fighter pilot stationed in Tripoli have an influence on their Apollo John Glenn (who wasn’t on the Grand he’d visited the ruins of Roman assignments. As for myself, I Canyon hike, having retired from the cities in the Libyan desert. When found the geophysics more akin astronaut corps to run for the U. S. the astronauts hiked into the to my engineering background Senate) compared Bean with Thomas Grand Canyon…Scott saw nearly than the geology. Although I Moran. Moran’s 1870s paintings of two billion years of history written enjoyed the geology, I never had a Yellowstone and the Grand Canyon in twisted metamorphic rocks ‘passion’ for it and, consequently, had given Americans their first visions and perfectly exposed strata of never considered myself a real of the great landscapes of their West. limestone, sandstone, and shale. geologist.9 Alan Bean would inspire Earthlings For the first time he understood about the moon. what it meant to talk about www.GrandCanyonHistory.org Grand Canyon Historical Society : 7 geologic time, in which millennia Carpenter “waved his hands and ease.”18 are reduced to moments. And answered ‘Because it’s there.’ You In the lobby of the Bright Angel each outing brought new would expect that kind of answer from Lodge the astronauts held a press spectaculars… At his home in a mountain climber, and Carpenter got conference, though Alan Shepard did El Lago [Texas], Scott proudly his spurs in that field while attending almost all the talking. “I’m just a little displayed his rock collection in a Boulder, Colorado, High School and old farm boy from New Hampshire,” specially made wooden cabinet.12 the University of Colorado at the foot he said, “but to me the Grand Canyon of the Rockies.”14 was very impressive indeed.” His Scott’s wife began taking a college The Phoenix newspaper mention of New Hampshire prompted class in geology so she could share also reported: “The climb was reporters to ask Shepard if he were his interest. Scott became very comparatively easy for one astronaut going to vote in the upcoming New frustrated at the lack of interest among trainee. Walt Cunningham…once Hampshire primary where Arizona’s NASA managers. He had to argue climbed Mt. Fujiyama in Japan.”15 Senator Barry Goldwater was strenuously to get them to include on Cunningham was the only other launching his presidential candidacy, his mission a light aluminum geology astronaut, with Neil Armstrong, who and Shepard said no, though he’d vote rake and a telephoto lens for taking had hiked into the canyon before. But in November. Another reporter asked high-resolution photos of features too Cunningham remained a cynic about Shepard if he, like John Glenn, had any far away to visit. One small tool Scott geology. In his memoir Cunningham plans to run for office, and Shepard took to the moon was a hand lens complained that geology lectures were admitted that he’d been asked to run, he borrowed from Gordon Swann. boring and said that new astronauts but he wasn’t interested. The Phoenix Swann told me that a year after Apollo attended the optional lectures only newspaper’s story was mostly about 15, Scott came through Arizona and because “we were looking desperately Shepard’s political comments. At least took his family to see the Grand for an edge,” a way of standing William Hoyt was interested in the Canyon, and afterward Scott came out. But: “The professors had zero purpose of the trip: through Flagstaff and gave Swann influence, and there weren’t many Dr. Jackson and other geologists back his hand lens, now in a shopping dramatic possibilities in that situation: explained briefly at the press bag from the canyon’s Verkamp’s no safely bringing down a burning conference that the Astronauts Curio Store. Scott had named a lunar aircraft, no untying little Nell from the were studying the geology of the mountain range for Swann. railroad tracks.”16 At least hiking out Grand Canyon “to make them The astronauts left Phantom Ranch of the Grand Canyon offered a chance more competent as scientific at 7:45 a.m. and headed up the Bright to prove something. observers and sample collectors Angel Trail in the same groups as Some of the geologists were well- when they reach the surface of the the previous day. On the way up, conditioned by years of field work, moon.” the geology instruction consisted but according to Elbert King: “The The Astronauts will take the mostly of the geologists quizzing astronauts’ better physical condition samples they collected on the trip the astronauts to see how much they annoyed the geologists throughout back to Houston where they will had learned and could identify. They the geology training course. Some of study them in laboratories. ate lunch at Indian Garden. Mules the instructors started running and “This will give the Astronauts were waiting to carry them out, but exercising regularly, but it always a representative geological the more competitive astronauts, led seemed the astronauts were far ahead collection, Dr. Jackson noted. by Alan Shepard, insisted on hiking. of us…In the end, it was just a fact of “We’re interested of course Eight astronauts hiked out, and ten life we had to accept.”17 The truth was in training them to be good rode. William Hoyt reported in the that the astronauts suffered quite a geological samplers so they’ll Flagstaff newspaper: “Shepard was bit too, mainly from using the wrong know what to look for and bring the first of the 18 Astronauts…to footwear, but they wouldn’t admit it. back from the surface of the reach the South Rim…reaching the Elbert King, whose hike students moon. We will be able to learn head of the Bright Angel Trail at 2:05 were Michael Collins and Roger a great deal from such geologic p.m., a full hour before the first group Chaffee, was also impressed by their samples…” on muleback. Chomping a cigar, mental prowess: “They were willing …All have flown over the he gleefully greeted his saddle-sore students who had no trouble grasping Canyon and Carpenter said he companions as they climbed down off the concepts we wanted them to went over it during his triple- their mounts.”13 understand…The astronauts much orbit flight “but I didn’t get much Also hiking out was Scott Carpenter. preferred this form of instruction of a look as it was covered with In the lobby of the Bright Angel Lodge to formal lectures and classes. The clouds.” someone asked Carpenter why he geologist instructors agreed that a lot Following yesterday’s press wanted to go to the moon, and, of teaching and learning had been conference, the astronauts according to the Phoenix newspaper, accomplished in the field with relative watched briefly as the Canyon’s

8 : Grand Canyon Historical Society www.GrandCanyonHistory.org Hopi Indian dancers performed in into the morning, five inches of it by assigned moon landings and front of Hopi House and then ate the time the astronauts started their subsequent exploration of the dinner at Bright Angel Lodge…19 hike at 8 a.m. Lower in the canyon, lunar surface, but fifty hours? it was rain. There was also lots of I didn’t think that much was The newspaper article included fog. The astronauts were warned necessary.25 photos of Alan Shepard mobbed by that the trail ahead was a muddy local Boy Scouts, Elliot See signing his and slippery mess, and this time all It probably wasn’t necessary for autograph on a girl’s forehead, and of them chose to ride mules from Borman, who never landed on the an older lady tourist in Hopi House Indian Garden to the rim. “It was a moon. But the geologists considered warning Scott Carpenter: “Please bit chilly,” commented Frank Borman. the canyon hikes a great success. don’t go up there again, and the rest An Arizona Daily Sun photograph of In a 1965 National Geographic article of you should stay down here too.” Borman and Pete Conrad on mules about all aspects of the astronaut There was no report of why she was was captioned that they “looked more training, which included photos of worried. Perhaps she was reading like a couple of veteran mule skinners the astronauts working in the canyon, the Dick Tracy comic strip—which than spacemen as they ride out of geologist Uel Clanton was quoted: abutted Hoyt’s articles—that detailed the Grand Canyon.”22 The Phoenix “Grand Canyon makes a magnificent Dick Tracy’s adventures flying in a newspaper captioned its photo “Orbit classroom.”26 Thus when two newly- “moon coup” and meeting a sexy Canyon on Mules: Some members selected groups of astronauts needed moon maiden with forehead antennas. of the astronaut space team orbit the to start geology training, the geologists Moon fever was in the air. spaces of the Grand Canyon.”23 At brought them to the Grand Canyon, A week later the rest of the astronaut the rim the mule wranglers gave the on June 2-3, 1966. corps arrived. Once again the center of astronauts certificates declaring them This hike included eighteen attention was the Mercury astronauts, to be Genuine Grand Canyon Mule astronauts, with three future Gus Grissom, Cordon Cooper, and Skinners. moonwalkers, Charlie Duke, Jim Wally Schirra, who had already William Hoyt asked Deke Slayton Irwin, and Edgar Mitchell, plus six flown in space, plus Deke Slayton, whether the heart fibrillation that astronauts who would see the moon who had been grounded due to a had grounded him was an issue on from above: Ron Evans, Fred Haise, heart condition. It was Schirra’s 41st the Grand Canyon hike, and Slayton Thomas Mattingly, Stuart Roosa, Jack birthday, and at the Flagstaff airport replied that, on the contrary, vigorous Swigert, and Al Worden. city officials presented him with “a exercise made his heart fibrillation It’s not clear why no reporters chocolate birthday cake suitably go away. Slayton also said that the were invited to cover the 1966 hike, inscribed and contained in a bright geology training was a success: “We but for NASA 1966 was a very busy pink cake carton…”20 Schirra, wearing really learn something when we year, with five Gemini missions, and a cowboy hat and a camera, happily actually see the rocks and formations. many astronauts felt that reporters showed off his cake to his fellow They say the best geologist is the one and public relations duties were a astronauts. who has seen the most rocks and huge distraction. This hike followed The second hike included two we’ve seen a lot of rocks in the last two the same schedule as the first two, astronauts who would walk on the days.”24 beginning with a talk at the Yavapai moon, Pete Conrad and John Young, Unlike the astronauts on the first geology museum, again with Eddie and three who would orbit the moon, hike, the participants on the second McKee. The main difference was that Frank Borman, Jim Lovell, and hike have left few comments about it was now summer and very hot Thomas Stafford. it. In his memoir Gordon Cooper at the canyon bottom. This time the This group of astronauts repeated didn’t say anything about the hike astronauts would camp out. the schedule of the first group, starting but he did mention that when he was Future Apollo 16 astronaut Charlie with an orientation lecture at the hosting some Soviet cosmonauts on a Duke knew what the canyon was like Yavapai geology museum, though goodwill tour of the U.S., he took them in summer, for he had been there in this time USGS geologist Al Chidester to the Grand Canyon, and Disneyland July of 1964. He and his wife Dotty substituted for Eddie McKee. They too. Frank Borman said of the overall were driving from Boston to Edwards took six and a half hours to reach training: Air Force Base in southern California, Phantom Ranch. After dinner they Some of it was valuable; some where Duke was to begin his career as sat in the dining hall for awhile and I judged to be a waste of time. a test pilot. They’d had time to spare talked. “But they went to bed early,” They gave us about fifty hours so they went camping in the Rockies according to ranch manager Ben of geology, which included trips and spent a few days at the Grand Clark, “they were all in by 8:30 p.m. to such fun places as the Grand Canyon, including riding mules into and they sacked right out.”21 Canyon and Meteor Crater in the canyon. Duke recalled his 1966 During the night snow began Arizona. The idea was to prepare hike: falling on the rim and it continued those astronauts who would be At first we thought of our field www.GrandCanyonHistory.org Grand Canyon Historical Society : 9 trips in terms of, “Ho hum let’s go was awake. If I frightened them, didn’t share this interest in science. out and look at some rocks.” We they surely would have gassed They cancelled three planned Apollo soon learned that such trips can be us all. Eventually they ran off into missions, though the hardware for demanding exercises… the night.27 them had already been built, the Our first trip…was a hike to training done. The long frontier the bottom of the Grand Canyon. Most of the other astronauts never experience that had given Americans When Dotty and I had visited the learned what nearly hit them. NASA all the practical skills to reach the canyon several years earlier, we was spared from having to explain moon had also failed to give them had ridden mules from the north why America’s bravest men went the values required to justify going to rim. This walk was to start from fleeing from a cute little animal. the moon, the values of wonder and the south rim… While Apollo 15’s Dave Scott and exploration for its own sake. Half of It took us all day to reach the Jim Irwin were doing geology on the the men on the 1966 hike would never bottom, and by the time we got moon, Al Worden was circling miles fly on an Apollo mission. But some of there most of us had feet that were above them in the command module. them would fly on Skylab and on the just one big blister. My flying Worden too had become captivated Space Shuttle. boots really didn’t double as with geology, partly from the influence Among these was Paul Weitz, who hiking boots. of Dave Scott, and partly from the was so impressed with northern Blisters and all, it was great to Grand Canyon: Arizona that he moved there after have arrived. I was surprised to The dry training style our his NASA career. Thus I was able to find a virtual oasis of cottonwood teachers used in the classroom have breakfast with Paul Weitz one trees and a grassy meadow in the never really gripped me, but my morning at the Weatherford Hotel in bottom of the canyon… attention picked up when we downtown Flagstaff. We were all ready to jump into started to make geology field trips. Paul Weitz was on the first Skylab the river to cool off, then were To be out in the wild landscape mission and the first launch of the delighted to find that someone made a huge difference…I loved Space Shuttle Challenger (the sixth had been foresighted enough to the feeling of being out in the flight for any shuttle), and later he bring some beer down for us to field and so, it turned out, did my became the deputy director of the have a cool one. Once cleaned up fellow Apollo crewmates… Johnson Space Center. Weitz was and cooled down by a few beers, If I hadn’t already been awed selected as an astronaut in the fifth we enjoyed a hearty meal that had by natural wonders, the long group of astronauts, in April 1966. By been prepared by the ranch staff. trek down to the floor of the then NASA was looking for stronger It was a beautiful night—so we Grand Canyon would have done science credentials, not just piloting threw our sleeping bags on the the trick…Hiking down from skills. Only a few weeks after being ground and settled down to get the canyon rim, we examined selected the new astronauts found some rest…The moon was out the layers of rock all the way themselves hiking into the Grand and the walls of the canyon were down to the primeval crust. Canyon. Weitz had never been to silhouetted in its light. Lying in The experience taught us little the canyon before. Weitz was paired my sleeping bag, I was transfixed about the moon. Nevertheless, with Jack Swigert, who would be the by this magnificent sight above it exposed us to more geological command-module pilot on the ill- me. I couldn’t help wondering if processes and examples. We were fated Apollo 13 mission, and for an one day I might actually set foot better prepared, because we were instructor they had Aaron Waters, a on that moon. seeing things in context, a whole UC-Santa Barbara volcanologist who I was sleeping soundly when awe-inspiring mile of context. was on Eugene Shoemaker’s team for suddenly I awoke with a start! This sense of context was planning the actual lunar field work. Something ran over my sleeping bag! particularly important for me. Waters had been in charge of one of I sat up quietly and looked I already knew I wouldn’t be the first astronaut training trips, to around. I don’t know whether it walking on the lunar surface. the volcanic fields near Bend, Oregon, was a male chasing a female or Instead, when I made my flight, I in October 1964. Weitz would also two males, but a pair of skunks would have an incredible view of go to Meteor Crater with Eugene were engaging in a big fight, the grand sweep of lunar features Shoemaker. Weitz told me that he running wildly about among our from only a few miles up. I would recalled Eddie McKee’s orientation party of ten guys. be looking at the big picture, and talk, but he was vague about the We’re really in trouble now, I told that could often tell us much more details. He found the instructors to myself. If one skunk catches the other than standing on the ground in be very capable, and very personable. on top of our sleeping bags, we’re one place.28 The trip was well organized, except for going to get wiped out! I stayed very NASA’s continued neglect of proper still so that they wouldn’t know I Unfortunately American politicians boots for a Grand Canyon hike. NASA

10 : Grand Canyon Historical Society www.GrandCanyonHistory.org left it to the astronauts to guess their The one I’ll never forget was south end of the animal. Then he own footwear. Like other astronauts, the first one, a two-day field trip quietly placed the camera next to Weitz got bad blisters. But at least to the Grand Canyon…After we the sleeping camera man, and not someone brought along moleskin. reached the bottom we walked another word was said. That night Weitz slept outside. I asked to Phantom Ranch. They didn’t We all enjoyed the mental him about Charlie Duke’s encounter have rooms for us but did provide picture of the video people with the skunks, and Weitz said he the evening meal. Sleeping bags reviewing the tapes, but they must have slept right through it. But had been transported down on never gave us the satisfaction on one of his later geology field trips donkeys and we unrolled them of acknowledging the camera in Alaska, Weitz was chased by a bear. and slept on the ground. It was work.31 As on the first two canyon hikes, the a beautiful starlit night and we out-hiking astronauts were met by practiced a little of our star and One astronaut told me a story about mules at Indian Garden, but the mules constellation identification. The an unnamed astronaut who wanted to too caused blisters, another subject on muscles in the front of my thighs collect a fossil trilobite from the Bright which the astronauts kept quiet. Weitz were quite sore from the downhill Angel Shale. His instructor warned wasn’t sure which type of blisters walk so I was a bit uncomfortable him that he would probably break the was worse. The geology training was and had difficulty going to sleep. fossil, but he tried anyway. He broke done on the way down the trail, and However, that was the least of my the fossil. included many stops. Weitz found worries. Of the twenty-four men who flew the training to be very valuable, and I heard a disturbance and raised to the moon, the only one who missed the canyon very inspiring. Weitz my head to see what was going going on a Grand Canyon hike was wasn’t aware of the behind-the-scenes on. Two skunks were leaping over the only astronaut who was also a political struggles that had prompted and around our sleeping bags: geologist. Harrison “Jack” Schmitt the geologists to use the Grand one was chasing the other, which studied geology at Caltech and got a Canyon to inspire the astronauts and I assumed was a mating ritual. I Ph.D. in geology from Harvard, and impress NASA managers. In later kept very quiet and didn’t move. he walked on the moon on Apollo 17, years Weitz came back to the Grand Suddenly Charlie Duke who had the final mission. There’s no record of Canyon just to see more of it. Weitz already fallen asleep rose up out why Schmitt wasn’t included on the did find his geology training useful on of his sleeping bag and I said 1966 canyon hike, but clearly Schmitt Skylab, much of which was devoted to “Charlie, don’t make any noise; didn’t require an introduction to studying Earth landscapes. there are skunks among us! He geology. I also heard from three other lay back down and I pulled my By 1967 NASA had expanded its astronauts who were on the third hike. bag over my head for protection standard geology training to 100 Jack Lousma was on the second in case they hosed down the area. hours in the classroom and ten field Skylab mission and commanded the Soon they left and the rest of the trips, but for the last three, science- third Space Shuttle flight. His memories night was peaceful… rich missions, there were about of the Grand Canyon hike included It was really a quite interesting twenty field trips designed to fit the same highlights as the other and enjoyable field trip.30 each mission. In all NASA conducted astronauts: the drone of classroom about 200 geology field trips. Many of lectures, the drama of the hike, the Gerald Carr was the commander of these occurred in northern Arizona, vivid rock layers. Lousma added: “We the third Skylab mission. He illustrated which offered Meteor Crater, many were equipped with standard geology the astronauts’ sense of humor: volcanoes and lava flows, and tools and equipment; just enough to The next morning we began especially an artificial moonscape be dangerous!...It was hot. We came the hike up Bright Angel Trail where technicians had blasted dozens across a few visitors who were stalled and got to a rest stop part way of craters into a volcanic cinder field out and without water, so we got help up where mules were waiting and set up a mockup of the lunar for them. We slept under the stars at for us for the rest of the hike. We lander. Other field trips included Phantom Ranch.”29 had a television camera man with Hawaii, Iceland, Alaska, Big Bend, Bill Pogue was on the third Skylab us who documented the training the Mojave Desert, and Craters of the mission. In 1955, as a gunnery exercise, and by the time we got to Moon National Monument in Idaho. instructor at Luke Air Force Base in the rest stop he was exhausted. He Yet when the astronauts came to Phoenix, Pogue led one training flight laid down his large, heavy camera write their memoirs, it was the Grand over the Grand Canyon and was awed on a table and went to sleep next to Canyon hike they remembered best. by the view from close above the rim. it. Astronaut Jack Swigert sneaked Somewhere along the South Kaibab Now he got to see that view from the over, stole his camera, and while Trail there are dozens of boulders inside. Pogue sent me an excerpt from someone held up a mule’s tail and cliff faces with pieces missing, the autobiography he was writing: Jack took extensive footage of the pieces chipped off by the astronauts, www.GrandCanyonHistory.org Grand Canyon Historical Society : 11 by the same hands that chipped off 5 Quoted in Arizona Daily Sun, March 6, 1964. 1977) p 32-3. moon rocks and brought them back 6 Buzz Aldrin, Return to Earth (New York: 17 Elbert King, op cit., p 29. Random House, 1973) p 193, 195. 18 Ibid, p 29-30. to Earth. The South Kaibab Trail was 7 Michael Collins, Carrying the Fire: An Astro- 19 Arizona Daily Sun, March 7, 1964. the pathway to the moon. The Grand naut’s Journey (New York: Farrar, Straus, Giroux, 20 Arizona Daily Sun, March 12, 1964. Canyon held the same eons and 1974) p 77-79. 21 Arizona Daily Sun, March 13, 1964. primordial forces and wild grandeur 8 Andrew Chaikin, A Man on the Moon: The 22 Arizona Daily Sun, March 14, 1964. Voyages of the Apollo Astronauts (New York: Vi- 23 Arizona Republic, March 14, 1964. as the moon; it inspired the same king, 1994) p 390-91. 24 Arizona Daily Sun, March 14, 1964. ancient human awe at the mystery 9 Neil Armstrong, personal communication. 25 Frank Borman, Countdown: An Autobiog- of the world and the mystery of 10 Eugene Cernan, personal communication. raphy (New York: William Morrow, 1988) p 101. ourselves. 11 Alan Bean with Andrew Chaikin, Apollo: 26 National Geographic, January, 1965, p 144. An Eyewitness Account by Astronaut/Explorer Art- 27 Charlie and Dotty Duke, Moonwalker (Endnotes) ist/Moonwalker Alan Bean (Shelton, Ct: Green- (Nashville: Thomas Nelson Publishers, 1990) p 1 John F. Kennedy, Speech to U. S. Congress, wich Workshop Press, 1998) p 59. 91-2. May 25, 1961. 12 Chaikin, A Man on the Moon, p 399. 28 Al Worden, Falling to Earth: An Apollo 15 2 Elbert King, Moon Trip: A Personal Account of 13 Arizona Daily Sun, March 7, 1964. Astronaut’s Journey to the Moon (Washington DC: the Apollo Program and its Science (Houston: Uni- 14 Arizona Republic, March 13, 1964. Smithsonian Books, 2011) p 117, 120. versity of Houston Press, 1989) p 28. 15 Arizona Republic, March 7, 1964. 29 Jack Lousma, personal communication. 3 Arizona Daily Sun, March 5, 1964. 16 Walter Cunningham, The All-American 30 Bill Pogue, personal communication. 4 Arizona Republic, March 6, 1964. Boys (New York: Macmillan Publishing Co. 31 Gerald Carr, personal communication. Louis Schellbach’s Log Books: Part 5 by Traci Wyrick parachuted from disabled plane two me on this my day off. Dr. Bryant still nights ago and were supposed lost at Clear Creek and not expected back OVERVIEW: Second half of 1944 in the Canyon. Spent time searching until Tuesday. Hope he and the “Ari- From air men being stranded in the with glasses for them. zona Highways” man have good trout canyon, to their subsequent rescue fishing. Ten moths have emerged from and what part, if any, did Emery Kolb Saturday June 24-1944 the pupae reared from larvae during play—to the discovery of a new agave, Routine at Yavapai, cleaning win- the night and morning. Will have to or the detailed work of an entomolo- dows and grounds for weekend visi- prepare them as specimens this eve- gist—1944 was a “happenin” time. tors. A parachute has been reported ning. So at present I have a full day There was trout fishing in Clear Creek, discovered below Point Sublime. Ar- before me. Eight of the moths are from interesting weather, to-do with squir- rangements being made by Spud Bill the Wild Currant and two from Loma- rels, and a Presidential wedding. Work to go in after the men and rescue them. tium. Showers at 10:00 a.m. (M.S.T.) on eradicating Russian thistle was They will go in over Tonto Platform on Thunder. At work spreading the 8 ongoing. On August 29th, the Dragon north side from Phantom Ranch. (No, moths that had emerged this evening formation on the North Rim caught on on South Rim to Tonto along Her- at Workshop until 9:40 p.m. fire. Eddie McKee was welcome com- mit). King and another ranger to meet pany at the Schellbach’s home during them from the north side at Phantom. Monday June 26, 1944 his frequent visits to the Park. Carpenter Payne building a canvas Attended rain gauge weekly report The following are the diary entries I boat to bring the men across the river, and also another moth of the Loma- selected for the remainder of 1944. As somewhere at mouth of Tuna Creek. trium series emerged. The two others a reminder, I have recorded the entries A party from South Rim to go down kept alive since Saturday and the one as originally written. and with a harpoon gun shoot a line of today were placed in cyanide bottle. across the river to the party on the Will spread them this evening. After Friday June 23, 1944 north side, for hauling boat across and dinner last night, went out to Pima Routine service to public at Yavapai. bring out the air men. Two only of the Point to see the parachute on Tonto At close of station 5:00p.m., had to three parachutes have been so far dis- Platform below Point Sublime west take a member of the U.S.G.S. to shop covered from the air. In evening with of Tuna Creek. It was very plain as a to supply him with a series of litho- family to movie. white spot and through the glasses logic specimens from the Canyon for- could be made out. Our rescue party mations—he working on potrolothic Sunday June 25- 1944 could be seen below Pima Point, mak- determinations. After dinner to shop Called on the phone this a.m. at 7:45 ing camp in the creek bed below the again to prepare entomological speci- by Asst. Supt. Davis, that I will have to old Hermit Rest camp site. mens on research rearing of larvae. take over Yavapai Station for the day This a.m. an Army Red Cross ambu- Today notified that three air men had as there is no one available to relieve lance arrived and also an Army staff

12 : Grand Canyon Historical Society www.GrandCanyonHistory.org car. Up to the present have not heard 2:00 p.m. for the afternoon. Evening to contact Army convoy carrying in to if the other two men of the group of at workshop for spreading the above establish a base camp for rescue work. three that had parachuted from the moth and taking other specimens set At shop upon return from Pima Point disabled plane, had been located. The from spreading boards and placing to spread entomological specimens. one at the above, had been contacted in collections. Another of the above Wrote Natt Dodge, cet. Reg. naturalist by note and supplies dropped to him. moths from the black pupae emerged at Santa Fe. 1:00 p.m. All three men are reported to during the afternoon and one red and be together at the site of the parachute. black striped moth was captured this Thursday June 29-1944 This was made known by flares, lit by evening. Republican convention is in A.M. Yavapai routine. Warmest them as instructed by note dropped at session in Chicago. No further word day this year so far. 83 degrees at the that place. A great relief is felt by all on the men down in the canyon. porch of Yavapai. The record hot day locals here at Grand Canyon at this at Phoenix. Ranger Ed Laws and pro- news. The next hard problem is get- Wednesday June 28-1944 fessor Max Rae reached the parachut- ting to them across the river and gorge. Before 9 a.m. at shop placing live ists and started out. Will camp at the Evening at workshop on reared moths of yesterday in cyanide jar. Dug redwall for night. Radio broadcasts specimens. During the afternoon one out title of readers book for H.C.B. To were held several times this evening of the black pupae moths emerged office to check paper on desk then to at Hermit Rest, giving out news on and is different from those of brown Yavapai. Watered plants and work- the progress of the rescue. Emery Kolb pupae. So have two species feeding ing on correspondence. Yavapai rou- is very much peeved that he was not on the same Homatiuss moth?. This tine. The rescue party under Chief asked by the Park Service to help in is interesting as the black fed on the Ranger Bill and the second string of the rescue work. In his own opinion leaves and the brown on the flowers. pack mules with supplies returned he is the most logical man to head up After 7:30 p.m. contacted Jackson of without success. The Colo. R. rose 15 the rescue work, for he and he alone the Arizona Highways magazine and feet and no place was found where the knows all about the Colorado River took him to the shop to see Northups Party could cross. There appears to be photos, kodachrome collection and to a route down from the North Rim off give him information on the work of Grama Point just east of Point Sub- the interior dept until 10:20 p.m. He lime to the head of Tuna Creek. The said he had a good trip with Dr. Bry- wall of Cocconino sandstone is broken ant into Clear Creek and they had down into a talus and just east of the good fishing. head of Tuna Creek the redwall lime- The portable sending and receiving stone shows a break down onto the radio with Spud Bill on the rescue ex- Tonto Platform. Ranger Ed Laws will pedition seems to be out of order. Poor descend on foot with one other man batteries seem the trouble. Could not (Max Rae, an annual visitor to GC) contact them in the evening. New bat- this afternoon. They will be followed teries have been sent from Santa Fe tomorrow with another party car- and will go down in the Canyon with rying supplies and water. Laws the second party carrying in provi- will show the stranded men sions and a coast guard man with har- the way out and at a halfway poon gun for firing a line across the place meet the second party. river. This route is about 5 miles long, so should not be very dif- Tuesday June 27-1944 ficult on foot. “Walkie-talkie” ra- Before going to Yavapai, checked dio sets have been brought in, one over the rearing jars at shop. Placed of which was dropped by parachute moth that had emerged yesterday in to the men down below. They talked cyanide jar and sometime this noon to the Army officers on the rim and will place it in relaxing pan for spread- report that all three are well and un- ing this evening. Picked up paper and injured and want orders permitting refuse about station and wiping and them to walk out or climb out. Went dusting and watering of plants. 1:00 to Pima Point after dinner and with p.m. Mr. Jackson of Arizona Highways my glasses saw their parachutes magazine requested that he would spread on the ground just beyond like to again go through the work- Tuna Creek on the Tonto Platform. shop for making some special notes— Bill and Davis left for north rim to su- photo: Grand Canyon National Park #06688 complied and got back to Yavapai at pervise the party organizing there and www.GrandCanyonHistory.org Grand Canyon Historical Society : 13 and Canyon. He started out alone, ily. Thunder storms in vicinity during collection specimens. Collected speci- with his grandson Sonny, down the the day. H.C. Bryant to relieve tomor- mens of Agave new to Grand Canyon Boucher trail, hoping to beat the or- row at Yavapai. at Junction of Clear Creek Forks, some ganized party in the rescue. He start- 15 specimens of mosses. The right ed the same sort of a stunt in 1937 in Friday October 6, 1944 hand fork was dry. Returned to Camp wanting to beat the American Muse- To shop servicing stoves so that the about 2 p.m. and had light lunch. um of Natural History’s Shiva Temple place may be comfortable this evening Those who went down the river drift- Expedition to the top of Shiva. He was for Mrs. Haring’s talk and exhibit of ed back singularly and had trout din- warned to keep away from Tiyo Point mosses. Prepared blackboard. Yavapai ner around 7:30 p.m. This day took and Shiva—he ignored the orders and routine. Cannot somehow or other kodachromes of Agave at forks and sneaked out there. He evidently has a get on preparing monthly report. So some scenic views. Black ring-necked persecution complex. many other items calling for attention. lizard observed. Golden eagle, juncos, Notified that I am to accompany Guy flickers and western robbins also a Friday June 30-1944 Jackson, Asst. Supt. Davis, on trip into towhee, and many wrens – pack rat. An Army rescue party from King- Clear Creek tomorrow. To be gone un- Coyote sign, plentiful but not fresh. man AZ, an elaborate outfit, moved til Thursday the 12th. Evening prepar- Black swallow tail butterflies quite nu- in on the North rim yesterday. Posted ing for a talk on “Mosses” by Mrs. Inez merous. large signs from Jacob lake down to Haring at the workshop. Very success- Park. A strange incident that one of ful evening and enjoyed by group. Mr. Tuesday Oct. 10th 1944 our own rangers, Sam King, had to get & Mrs. Bryant, Mr. & Mrs. Spud Bill, Prepared specimens collected yes- a permit to go to Point Sublime for the Mr. & Mrs. Davis and children, local terday and did some photograph- Army. How come? school teachers, some 20 people in all. ing. Movies of outfit and trout. On Signed letters to Natt Dodge and upper left hand fork of Clear Creek McKee and proceeded with daily rou- Saturday, October 7th 1944 the trout proved to be Eastern brook tine at Yavapai. A short talk with Supt. A.M. preparing equipment and pur- trout with not a sign of Rainbow. They Bryant getting some details on the chasing supplies for trip into Clear were above a 12’ fall. This is strange, rescue progress. P.M. The three Army Creek. Purchased fishing license. Left and can only be accounted for as hav- men have reached the rim and Bright So. Rim 2:55 p.m. six in party, 9 ani- ing survived the flood of ’36. Eastern Angel Point and are proceeding by car mals, from Yaki Point down Kaibab Brook Trout eyed eggs were planted to South Rim. This being our wedding Trail. Trail very dusty. Encountered in the stream in the late 1920 (1927?) anniversary, Ethyl, Don Lou and Pres- the State Teachers College, Hiking by Art Brown and Jim Brooks. Took ton and yours truly had dinner at the Club, enroute. Arrived Rock House, a specimen for collection. No. F-15. El Tovar hotel. The rescued men ar- below Phantom Ranch 7:00 p.m. Rock Trout dinner again this evening. Dried rived and had dinner, cleaned up and wrens fairly common. Little bats nu- some for taking out tomorrow. the N.B.C. radio men, put them on the merous along river & B.A. Creek. air in an interview of their experiences Ringtailed cats. Spotted skunk under Wednesday Oct. 11th 1944 after having parachuted into the can- Rock House, walked about during Broke camp, cleaned up and pulled yon and being marooned 10 days. This dinner. out for Bright Angel Creek and the was at 10:05 p.m. (war time) Had quite Rock House. Sky overcast with oc- a chat with Mrs. Frank Oesler. Sunday, October 8th 1944 casional sprinkles. Took more Koda- Packed outfit, saddled up and start- chromes enroute and some movies Saturday July 1st 1944 ed up for the Clear Creek trail about 16 m.m. Arrived Rock House around Another moth emerged yesterday 9:00 a.m. Trip over Tonto Platform 3:00 p.m. Had dinner at Phantom on the Lomaturm from a brown pu- into Clear Creek, warm but unevent- Ranch. Took view’s of mouth of B.A. pae. The remaining black pupae do ful. Reached C.C. approx 3:00 p.m. Creek. This day observed numerous not seem to be alive and are not as Unpacked and rigged fishing tackle. millipedes along Clear Creek Trail. At large as the previous ones. General By supper time all were in with their Phantom Ranch along B.A. Creek saw clean up at Yavapai and the changing limit of Rainbow Trout. Stream heav- a pair of Water Ouzel or Dippers. of monthly record sheets. The three ily overstocked. Around the lantern, lost parachutists visited Yavapai this captured moths for study collection. Thursday, Oct. 12th 1944 a.m. with Supt. H.C. Bryant and I had Broke camp and pulled out for quite a talk with them and learned Monday, October 9th 1944 South Rim at head of B.A. Trail. Trip that there are pools of good water in John Davis started down Clear uneventful, took several exposures, Tuna Creek and that there is a spring Creek for the falls and Colo. River, saw one Boyle King snake at Pipe below the rim on the west side of with Guy Jackson and Edick, tak- Creek. Arrived rim about 4:00 p.m. Grama Point. To Community House ing lunch. Schellbach, Roy James and Unpacked and headed for home. Trip in evening for “movies” with the fam- Miller up Clear Creek fishing and a success. Regret I did not take more

14 : Grand Canyon Historical Society www.GrandCanyonHistory.org collecting equipment for entomologi- Bob Miller wrote some time ago. Re- nature on Grand Canyon Natural His- cal specimens and botanical material. turned to the Shop and made a study tory Assn. annual report and close of Evening to Community House for skin of the Albert squirrel skinned last the active year. Cataloged specimen of “Bingo”. Party given by Amer. Legion. night at Davis’s. The underparts are Abert squirrel prepared on the 9th and dark, almost as dark as the belly of attended two entomological speci- Sunday Nov. 5, 1944 the Kaibab squirrel on the North Rim, mens captured earlier in the month. Day off. Chief Ranger H.L. Bill re- hence its desirability as a specimen. To Shop in evening from 7:00 p.m. to lieving me at Yavapai. Sky partly over- It shows a connection between the 9:00 p.m. on some filing work. cast and quite winter. At the shop pre- North and South Rim squirrels. Cata- paring specimens of moths from Clear log NO. M-511. Friday, December 1st. 1944 Creek that were on spreading boards Yavapai Observation Station closed and accessioning new books received Tues. Nov 21st 1944 in the a.m. starting this day. Attended last month for Reference Library. Relieved from Yavapai duty by supt. stove at Workshop and then to Yavapai H.C. Bryant and worked on correspon- to attend stove and thermo. reading. Monday, Nov. 6, 1944 dence at Shop. Wrote Haring, Disher, Closed record sheets for month and Routine at Yavapai. Unloaded mail McKee, Tempe St. college and Trask. posted new sheets. Brought in book sacks of “Views from Yavapai” and Cleaned shop and placed Agave Parrii sales fund for month. Attended close “Grand Canyon Facts” and stored in press. Evening at Shop degreasing of month report on rain gauge for U.S. this printed matter in cabinets 3 and some entomological specimens. Re- Weather Bureau and changed graph 4. Letter from Ms. Collum re agave of ceived catalog cards from Library of sheet. At work in a.m. at Naturalist Clear Creek and milkweed. The agave Congress for Reference Library. Workshop on correspondence. is “Agave parryi”, new for Park. Rain and snow at 2:45 p.m. First snow of Thurs. Nov 23, 1944 Saturday, December 2, 1944 the season. Completed October book At shop to attend stove. Then to A.M. duty at Workshop on monthly sales and bank deposit. Yavapai on routine station duty. report. P.M. Yavapai duty. Evening to THANKSGIVING DAY. All govern- movie. Called from movie on phone Tuesday. Nov. 7, 1944 ment employees working on holiday. and notified that Col. Elliot Roosevelt Election Day. Roosevelt and Dewey Kodachromes taken in October on (son of the President of the U.S.) and for the Presidency. Sky heavily over- Clear Creek trip received, that is the his wedding party had arrived and cast with rain and snow. On duty at 4th roll. All turned out well. A letter to come to the El Tovar hotel to meet Workshop. Supt. Bryant relieving at from Arthur Chavez, (a former CCC him and his best man Mr. Freye, Pres. Yavapai. Made bank deposit for as- enrollee assigned to Naturalist Dept.) Of the T.W.A. Airlines, to make ar- sociation. Attended cataloging and who is now a corporal with the Armed rangements for the wedding tomor- filing of fish specimens and trilobites Forces in France. He served in Africa row. Mr. Stevens and I, together with returned from Mus. of No. Arizona. and Italy. A very fine letter. H.C.B. no- Chief Ranger Bill, spent up to 12:00 Mailed order slips for library catalog tified me he had word from Regional a.m. with them. Took them to Com- cards from the Library of Congress. Office at Santa Fe to send me there for munity Building and then to Yavapai. Rain and snow ceased in the p.m. a month to prepare P.C.P. sheets on a It was decided to hold the wedding at Franklin D. Roosevelt was again elect- Regional Workshop. 9:00 a.m. at Yavapai Observation Sta- ed for the fourth term, defeating the tion. Pretty tired, hit the “hay” at 1:15 Republican candidate, Dewey. Fri. Nov, 24, 1944 a.m. Supt. H.C. Bryant and wife and Started to snow around 6 a.m. Asst. Supt. Davis and wife to leave Wed. Nov. 8, 1944 (MST) High winds. Routine duty at early tomorrow for Kayenta, to attend Routine duty at Yavapai. In for staff Yavapai. Had to place chains on tires. the funeral of John Wetherill, Navaho meeting at 10:00 a.m. Weather clear Stopped snowing around 10:15 a.m. trader and friend of the Park Service and cold. The north rim white with High winds and cold. No attendance who passed away during the week at snow. Letter notifying me that I am in a.m. Canyon most of day obscured Ash Fork. a member of the Boy Scout Commit- by clouds. Good attendance at 3:30 The bride: Film actress Faye Emer- tee to attend meeting Friday at 8p.m. p.m. talk. To scout meeting at 8:00 p.m. son. Matron of Honor: Mrs. Joseph Had to skin a Abert squirrel over at B. Livengood. Maid of Honor: Elliots the Asst. Supt. Davis home. He want- Tues. Nov 28th 1944 daughter, Miss Chandler Roosevelt. ed the meat. It was shot with a 22 cal. Relieved from Yavapai duty to do Best Man: Jack Frye, head of Transcon- Rifle. work at Workshop by Asst. Supt. John tinental & Western Airlines. Guests: Thurs. Nov. 9, 1944 Davis. Made signs and notices for Mrs. Frye, Miss Janet Thomas, Mrs. On duty at Yavapai Observation Sta- public display of the change in hours Clarence and Col. Shoop, Lt. Col. Da- tion. The fish specimens arrived from at Yavapai starting Dec. 1st. Wrote let- vid Brooks and John Hoover. the U.S. Natl Museum and of which ter to Regional Director for Supt. Sig- www.GrandCanyonHistory.org Grand Canyon Historical Society : 15 Grand Canyon Historical Society PRSRT STD PO Box 31405 U.S. POSTAGE Flagstaff, AZ 86003 PAID FLAGSTAFF, AZ PERMIT 333

New names in the above logs, not previ- evelt’s daughter Don Schellbach sent information on ously published; apologies where I have Miss Janet Thomas—Roosevelt wed- the name “Mrs. Spencer” in Part printed a name twice in former parts. ding Two and Four. She was a relative to Guy Jackson—writer and/or photog- Mrs. Clarence—Roosevelt wedding Fred Harvey. Her name was Mabel rapher for Arizona Highways Col. Shoop—Roosevelt wedding and her husband was Frank. They Max Rae—a professor Lt. Col. David Brooks—Roosevelt worked for Fred Harvey Co. manag- Emery Kolb-- Canyon resident and wedding ing the Hopi House. Schellbach said explorer John Hoover—probably John Edgar Fred Harvey originally came from Sonny Kolb—Emery’s grandson Hoover, the first director of the England and he is guessing that the Edick--?—on the Clear Creek trip F.B.I., Roosevelt’s wedding. name “Shirley Jones” (found in Part Bob Miller--U.S. National Museum, on IV) of England, could be a relative the Clear Creek trip Other names mentioned from diary entries of his. J. Brooks-?-- possibly James P. Brooks, not selected: Lou Gastellem was the chief clerk and Chief Ranger and sole survivor Reverend Sawyer-? worked for purchasing clerk, Bill when Johnson and Sturdevant were J. Babbitt- probably one of the Babbitt Downing. swept away by the Colorado River brothers Gordon Cox: his wife’s name Helen, in 1929. Bill Dowling—was the purchasing he was Chief Clerk of Region III in Disher and Trask--?-- correspondents clerk. He also typed songs and Santa Fe. of Schellbachs worked on GC plant checklists. His Fancher from part ONE, first name is Arthur Chavez—CCC enrollee brother was killed in the war Sept Roy. Col. Elliot Roosevelt—son of President 1944. “Koons” from Part ONE could be Roosevelt Chuck Sevey-- retired federal em- spelled “Coons” and he was from Mr. Jack Frye—President of TWA ployee, worked on the Parks plant Baltimore MD. Mrs. Stevens-? checklist John Wetherill—Navajo trader and Miss Verkamp—member of the Look for diary entries from 1945 in a friend of the Park Verkamp family and local school future issue of The Ol’ Pioneer. Faye Emerson--Actress teacher Mrs. Joseph B. Livengood—Roosevelt Ms. Maw (sp) and Ms. Visel (sp)—Lo- wedding party cal school teachers Chandler Roosevelt— Elliot Roos- Corrections and/or additions: