NORTHERN TANZANIA

FEBRUARY 18–MARCH 7, 2018

Leopard (adult female) © Kevin J. Zimmer

LEADERS: KEVIN ZIMMER & ANTHONY RAFAEL LIST COMPILED BY: KEVIN ZIMMER

VICTOR EMANUEL NATURE TOURS, INC. 2525 WALLINGWOOD DRIVE, SUITE 1003 AUSTIN, TEXAS 78746 WWW.VENTBIRD.COM NORTHERN TANZANIA BIRDING & WILDLIFE IN THE SERENGETI, NGORONGORO CRATER & BEYOND February 18–March 7, 2018

By Kevin Zimmer

Retz’s Helmetshrike, Ngare Sero, February 2018 (© Kevin J. Zimmer)

As has become the routine, the entire group arrived in Tanzania at least a day early to recover from the international flights and enjoy some relaxing birding on the lovely grounds of Ngare Sero Mountain Lodge, an old estate converted to an intimate tourist lodge. Here, amidst the spectacular gardens and remnant forest bordering a lily-covered pond and trout stream, we gained an introduction to African birds, including several species that we would not see elsewhere on the trip. Exceptional among our many prizes were a group of bizarre Retz’s Helmetshrikes and a very cooperative Lizard Buzzard, neither species of which we had ever recorded on the lodge grounds before. More expected, but no less welcome, were such ‘regulars’ as Hamerkop, a pair of African Black Ducks, loads of bickering Little Grebes (one of them on a nest), Black Crake, African Green-Pigeon, numbers of White-eared Barbets, Kenrick’s Starling, Brown- hooded and Giant kingfishers, prehistoric-looking Silvery-cheeked Hornbills, evening roosts of Sacred Ibis, dapper Mountain Wagtails, attractive male and female Black- throated Wattle-eyes, an exceptionally vocal African Black-headed Oriole, and actively

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 2 Northern Tanzania, February 2018 nesting Grosbeak Weavers. We topped it off with nice views of a lovely African Wood- Owl and some extended studies of two special primates—Guereza Colobus and Blue (Syke’s) Monkey.

Giant Kingfisher, Ngare Sero, February 2018 (© Kevin J. Zimmer)

Our first “official” day on safari took us to nearby Arusha National Park, lying in the shadow of Mt. Meru. This park is small, but it has many different habitats and offers a wonderful variety of birds and big game. Topping the highlights here were a lovely Bar- tailed Trogon and some breathtaking Hartlaub’s Turacos (endemic to east Africa) in the highland forest, but we also picked off such gems as Greater Painted-Snipe, Cape Teal, some mixed-species aggregations of feeding swifts (including such uncommonly seen species as Scarce Swift and Horus Swift among more usual fare), White-fronted and Cinnamon-chested bee-eaters, Brown-breasted Barbet, Moustached Tinkerbird, African Pygmy Kingfisher, Moustached Grass-Warbler, White-starred Robin, Long-billed Pipit, Yellow Bishop, and many more (including an impressive five species of cisticolas, which were destined to become a group favorite). Advance scouting revealed that flamingos were essentially missing-in-action in the alkaline waters of the Momela Lakes, but we still managed to find a lone Greater Flamingo. Mammalian highlights were headlined by some fabulously close “Masai” Giraffes, troops of Olive Baboons, impressive Guereza Colobus monkeys, a male Vervet Monkey that gave new meaning to an old expression, rarely seen Harvey’s Duikers (for some), and loads of Bushbucks and Defassa Waterbucks, with a sprinkling of Common Warthogs, Common Zebras, and African Buffalo mixed in.

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Bar-tailed Trogon, Arusha NP, February 2018 (© Kevin J. Zimmer)

Hartlaub’s Turaco, Arusha NP, February 2018 (© Kevin J. Zimmer)

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 4 Northern Tanzania, February 2018 Early the next morning, we drove to the Kilimanjaro airport (in the process, getting our second look at the mountain massif of the same name), where we caught our commercial flight to Mwanza (Tanzania’s second largest city), in the Lake Victoria region of western Tanzania. There, we met up with Geitan and Vincent, our two excellent safari drivers for the remainder of the trip. From Mwanza, it was about a two-and-a-half-hour drive to our next lodge at Speke Bay, an attractive and intimate lodge nestled on the very shores of the vast inland sea that is Lake Victoria. After a late lunch of delicious fresh-caught Tilapia and a short break to settle in to our rooms, we ventured forth on a late afternoon bird walk around the lodge grounds. Highlights came with dizzying speed, from two species of cryptically plumaged day-roosting nightjars (Slender-tailed and Eurasian) to incandescent Black-headed Gonoleks and Red-chested Sunbirds, to multiple Spotted Thick-knees, some of them ridiculously tame. The resident Pearl-spotted Owlet appeared right on cue, bringing with it an impressively diverse mob of smaller birds looking for a fight, among them, “Usambiro” Barbet, Beautiful Sunbird, Blue-capped Cordonbleu, Green-winged Pytilia, and White-bellied and Yellow-fronted canaries. Other passerines of note included obliging Swamp Flycatchers and elegant Silverbirds. The real prize, and our primary afternoon target, finally showed when we walked close enough to a pair of crouched Three-banded (Heuglin’s) Coursers to get them to stand up and be noticed. These elegant shorebirds are active mainly at night and spend their days resting quietly in the shade, relying on the cryptic complexity of their plumage, combined with near total inactivity, to keep them from potential predators. Once located, they offered up sensational prolonged studies, and we ended up walking away, leaving the coursers precisely where we found them.

Three-banded (Heuglin’s) Courser, Speke Bay, Lake Victoria, Feb 2018 (© Kevin J. Zimmer)

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 5 Northern Tanzania, February 2018 The next morning, we picked up right where we left off, spending a few hours birding on foot around the lodge, a venture highlighted by five species of kingfishers ranging from the abundant and impossible-to-miss Pied Kingfishers to the diminutive and retiring but drop-dead-gorgeous Malachite and African Pygmy kingfishers. Weavers were also well- represented, including Slender-billed, Northern Brown-throated, Village, Golden-backed (Jackson’s), and Black-headed (Yellow-backed), many of which were well into nest- building and courtship activities. Sunbirds (Scarlet-chested, Beautiful, and Red-chested) and Black-headed Gonoleks were again conspicuous, a Red-chested Cuckoo proved hyper-responsive, a White-throated Bee-eater was a good find, and a fierce little Pearl- spotted Owlet once again attracted the usual ‘mob scene’ of little passerines when it responded to playback. We also found a day-roosting Square-tailed Nightjar, completing the nightjar ‘hat trick’ that we had begun the previous afternoon. A sleepy pair of massive Verreaux’s Eagle-Owls, showing their pink eyelids, was a true highlight, as were a rarely seen Western Banded Snake-Eagle and a pair of Black-billed Barbets that finally showed at the proverbial eleventh hour. As is always the case here, the resident pair of African Fish-Eagles offered up multiple great studies over the course of the morning.

Verreaux’s Eagle-Owl, Speke Bay, Lake Victoria, February 2018 (© Kevin J. Zimmer)

After lunch, we checked out and made the short drive to the western entrance gate to Serengeti National Park. While Geitan and Vincent handled the inevitable paperwork at the entrance gate, the rest of us managed to secure exceptional studies of a Greater Honeyguide and a pair of Red-fronted Tinkerbirds. Documents in hand, we then set off on our long transect of the western corridor of the Serengeti. Given that at this early juncture in the tour, nearly everything was new, frequent stops were inevitable. Shrikes (White-rumped, Magpie, and Gray-backed Fiscals) became common, as did lustrous

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 6 Northern Tanzania, February 2018 purple Rüppell’s Starlings and their shorter-tailed but more rainbow-hued cousins, the Superb Starlings. Migrant European Rollers and resident Lilac-breasted Rollers were teed-up prominently along the road, and assorted raptors became increasingly conspicuous. The drive also yielded our first views of two of the iconic birds of the African savannas: Common Ostrich and Secretary-bird.

Superb Starling, Serengeti NP, February 2018 (© Kevin J. Zimmer)

There were, of course, numbers of large mammals, but the numbers were but a fraction of what we usually encounter in the western corridor at this time of year. Anthony had warned me of what to expect, because the “long” rains were much delayed and had only started a scant few days before our arrival, not leaving enough time to stimulate the new growth of grass that would attract the great migration of ungulates that we were hoping to witness. In fact, no one seemed to know exactly where the migrant herds were massing at the moment. All advance reports from other safari guides that preceded our arrival spoke of a glut of predators (particularly Lions and Cheetahs) that were waiting expectantly for the herds of Wildebeest, zebras, and gazelles to arrive, but with only meager numbers of all prey species present and no sign of the big herds. Underscoring the advance ‘intel,’ we did come across a family of four Cheetahs on the drive, but we saw no evidence of migration.

This made it an easy decision to minimize stops for mammals on an afternoon when we had to cover significant ground to reach our camp before dusk, and, when we had to dodge a few rain showers in the process. We did make a targeted stop in favorable microhabitat for the rare Karamoja Apalis, scoring nicely with one of these gnatcatcher-

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 7 Northern Tanzania, February 2018 like birds in fairly short order. The Grumeti River was lower than I had ever seen it, but that didn’t seem to bother the many hippos that had turned the stagnant water into a murky froth of methane gas that was an assault to the senses. A stop at our usual spot for Eastern Plantain-Eater rewarded us not only with great studies of these maniacal sounding turacos with the banana-yellow bills, but also with nice looks at the western subspecies of Guereza Colobus. We arrived at luxurious Kubu Kubu Tented Lodge with time to spare before dusk and enjoyed the first of what Debbi aptly labeled as “the world’s best showers” to clean the road dust off. As was the case last year, we went to sleep to the sounds of Lions and Spotted Hyaenas calling from just downslope.

The next morning, we headed directly to the Seronera area, located in the heart of the central Serengeti. To many people, the Serengeti is practically synonymous with “big cats,” and, indeed, felines, particularly Leopards, were to be our primary objectives on this day and the next. We barely made it out of camp before spotting a lone male Lion, quite possibly the same individual whose grunting calls could be heard from our rooms the previous night. Stops for birds were inevitable and netted us many additions to the list, ranging from Flappet Larks and Purple Grenadiers to Tanzanian Red-billed Hornbills, the endemic Gray-breasted Francolin, and an impressive, perched African Hawk-Eagle. Once we reached the Seronera River, ringed with grotesque Marabou Storks and clogged with hippos and Nile Crocodiles, the pace of new birds picked up noticeably. We scored our first group of bizarre Southern Ground-Hornbills stalking the grasslands, as well as our first Green Wood-Hoopoes clambering over the trunks of the big acacias lining the river. We also got our first close elephants and a couple of close Lions, and it wasn’t long until we picked up a hot tip on the location of a Leopard. When we reached the spot, we found the Leopard, an adult female, recumbent on a shaded limb well above the ground, and, to our surprise, a half-grown cub that was nestled into the fork of another but nearby tree. We were to see the female again in the same tree two days later, but on that second occasion, her youngster was tucked somewhere out of sight. The afternoon birding/game drive produced additional Lions (this time in trees), great studies of a couple of low-flying White-headed Vultures (never a sure thing), and an entertaining would-be act of predation involving an overly optimistic Black Crake in dogged pursuit of a baby Nile Monitor lizard that was nearly as big as the crake. Each time the crake managed to catch up with the lizard, the monitor would start writhing around violently, which, in turn, seemed to frighten the crake into releasing its hold. When last seen, the monitor had escaped into the vegetation bordering the creek, and the crake was left looking utterly confused.

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African Hawk-Eagle, Serengeti NP, February 2018 (© Kevin J. Zimmer)

Leopard (adult female), Serengeti NP, February 2018 (© Kevin J. Zimmer)

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White-headed Vulture, Serengeti NP, February 2018 (© Kevin J. Zimmer)

Our third day in the Serengeti treated us to the spectacle of migration, not of the great herds of wildebeests (whose whereabouts remained a mystery), but of zebras. Lines of steadily moving zebras stretched to the horizon in all directions as many thousands of these striking animals plodded inexorably toward the promise of some unseen, rain- kissed section of the Serengeti and the lush grasslands that could support their numbers. The scene before us was awesome, primeval, and even spiritual. As we watched the sinuous lines of zebras, with lesser numbers of Wildebeests, Topis, and gazelles interspersed, it was easy to imagine parallels with the great Bison herds that once roamed North America’s Great Plains, and wonder if contemporaneous Native Americans felt the same sense of awe that we were feeling.

Later in the morning, we came across a copulating pair of Lions, the male impressively dark-maned, and both cats looking well-fed, which were seemingly oblivious to the steady stream of migrating zebras on all sides. We spent that afternoon on the grasslands known as Retima, with our lodge visible on the distant hillside. Highlights included White-bellied Bustard, a pair of Senegal Lapwings, a Harlequin Quail, singing Pectoral- patch and Desert cisticolas, and a ghostly male Pallid Harrier.

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Mating Lions, Serengeti NP, February 2018 (© Kevin J. Zimmer)

The next morning, we bid Kubu Kubu Camp goodbye and struck out once more for the Seronera area. Taking the familiar route along the Seronera River, we happened onto more Lions, some sensational studies of Bearded and Mountain Gray woodpeckers, and, for the trailing vehicle, an African Crake that I spotted just as we were driving past. I yelled, Geitan immediately backed up some 30 m or more, and, amazingly, the crake was still in the same spot. It stayed just long enough for everyone to get on it before it slipped off into the grass. We couldn’t linger too long, because we had to make our way across the plains to Naabi Hills, where we would picnic before exiting the park at 1:00 p.m. En route, we skirted a few of the rocky kopjes , including the famed Simba Kopje made famous by the animated film The Lion King , and, on this day at least, very appropriately hosting a couple of dozing Lions. We picked off more new birds (Greater Kestrel, Taita Fiscal) as we went, highlighted by bunches of nomadic African Quailfinches that were coming down to the muddy margins of waterhole to drink. A detour of a quarter-mile or so also led us to a trio of dozing Cheetahs hauled out in the shade of some large shrubs.

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Female (left) & male (right) African Quailfinch, Serengeti NP, February 2018 (© Kevin J. Zimmer)

As we approached Naabi Hills, we began to see more and more grazing animals— Wildebeests, Common Zebras, Kongoni, and Grant’s and Thomson’s gazelles. After lunch, we exited the park and set off across the short-grass Naabi-Ndutu Triangle Plains. Here too, ungulate numbers were noticeably higher and included groups of large, decidedly bovine, Eland. Rocks lining the main gravel road were liberally topped with Capped, Northern, and Isabelline wheatears, as well as the occasional vivid Blue-headed Tree Agama, and provided nice hiding spots for multiple Spotted Thick-knees. Along this same stretch, we also enjoyed close views of Yellow-throated and Chestnut-bellied sandgrouse and some nice groups of Black-winged Lapwings. Once off the main track and heading directly for Ndutu, we began seeing Common (Golden) Jackals and Spotted Hyaenas. At one point, we came across a classic gathering of scavengers, suggesting a recent kill. Here, gathered in one spot, were several hyaenas, a pair of jackals, and a small coven of sinister-looking Rüppell’s Griffons, the malevolent appearance of the latter made more striking by the fact that one of the griffons was sporting a striking red head and neck stained by the blood of whatever carcass it had been feeding upon. The hyaenas were busily engaged in chasing one of their ranks that was playing ‘keep away’ with the head and forequarters of an unlucky Thomson’s Gazelle. Whether the hyaena had actually killed the ‘Tommie’ itself, or, perhaps more likely, had chased a Cheetah off its kill, we could not be sure. What was evident was that this particular hyaena was not going to give up its prize without a fight, so eventually, the other hyaenas ended their pursuit. Eventually, we made it across the Triangle Plains and descended into the Ndutu woodlands below, arriving at our lodge before 5:00 p.m.

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Spotted Hyaena, eyed warily by a Common Jackal, Triangle Plains, Feb 2018 (© Kevin J. Zimmer)

Ndutu is probably my favorite stop on our trip. The intimacy of the lodge, combined with the proximity to a variety of habitats (alkaline lakes, freshwater marsh, short-grass plains, woodland, and bush) and the resulting bird diversity, and the ever-present possibility of encountering cats (big and small) and their prey, makes for a nearly unbeatable combination. Ndutu is also the place where we normally expect to intercept the Wildebeest migration, when the Wildebeests are pausing to calve in lush grasslands replenished by the onset of rains. So far, it wasn’t happening. Although there had been a few recent rainstorms to the west in the Serengeti, the rains had yet to reach Ndutu, which was powder-dry. Geitan, Vincent, and Anthony were in constant touch with other safari drivers and tour operators, and so far, everyone was coming up empty on the Wildebeest migration. All we could do was get out and ‘beat the bushes’ by searching the surrounding plains and woodlands for signs of the migration.

Over the next two days, we crisscrossed our way back and forth over the Ndutu Plains and the Ndutu Woodlands. In an area known as “Hidden Valley,” we came across a splinter group of migrant zebras and Wildebeest that had descended on the valley in search of water. The presence of the thirsty migrants at the scattered ponds and waterholes had also attracted more Lions, and the water had also proved a magnet for migrant shorebirds, pratincoles, and terns. The plains gave us yet another family group of three magnificent Cheetahs, while the woodlands and Big Marsh gave us yet more Lions, including one beautifully golden-maned male who reacted to our stopping nearby by walking out of the marsh, directly to our Land Cruiser, and plopping down in the sliver of shade cast by the vehicle. With the big cat just inches away, enjoying this slice of heaven in the midday sun, we could hardly drive away, and we ended up attracting a

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 13 Northern Tanzania, February 2018 crowd of other safari vehicles whose occupants no doubt were thinking we had encroached way too closely on the regal cat. On our second morning, we encountered a pair of Bat-eared Foxes, as always, never far from one of their escape tunnels. One of the goblin-like canids remained crouched in a depression for an extended period, pretty much in plain sight, before suddenly springing to its feet, trotting toward us, and then abruptly disappearing down a hole that was right next to the jeep track where we sat parked.

Male Lion, Big Marsh, Ndutu, February 2018 (© Kevin J. Zimmer)

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Bat-eared Fox, Ndutu, February 2018 (© Kevin J. Zimmer)

As always, Ndutu delivered on the birding front. Swarms of flashy Fischer’s Lovebirds descended several times daily upon the water feature outside the lodge dining room, as did Blue-capped Cordonbleus, White-bellied Canaries, and several species of doves. The marshy areas attracted male Southern Red Bishops in high breeding plumage, as well as furtive groups of Rufous Chatterers. Temminck’s and Double-banded coursers and Yellow-throated and Chestnut-bellied sandgrouse shared the short grass plains, whereas elegant Three-banded Coursers were to be found in the woodlands. Raptors were everywhere and included such fan favorites as Martial Eagle, Long-crested Eagle, African Harrier-Hawk, Dark Chanting-Goshawk, and African Hawk-Eagle, among many others. A cluster of male Steel-blue Whydahs was a big hit, as were a Secretary-bird on its nest, abundant Gray-breasted and Coqui francolins and Helmeted Guineafowl, and, of course, Debi’s bird, the bizarrely beautiful African Hoopoe. Equally unlikely to be forgotten were the family groups of White-rumped Shrikes that enlivened every Happy Hour checklist session by enthusiastically snatching popcorn from our hands!

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Fischer’s Lovebirds, Ndutu Safari Lodge, February 2018 (Kevin J. Zimmer)

Long-crested Eagle, Ndutu, February 2018 (© Kevin J. Zimmer)

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 16 Northern Tanzania, February 2018 Our next stop, at Oldupai (NOT “Olduvai”!) Gorge, the “Cradle of Mankind” where Louis and Mary Leakey made many of their groundbreaking discoveries, provided an insightful look into the ancient past. Although midday heat, persistent winds, and a shortage of time all conspired to negate any real attempts at birding around the gorge, we still picked off a few prizes such as White-throated Robin, Abyssinian White-eye, Scarlet-chested Sunbird, and nest-building Vitelline Masked-Weavers. Upon leaving the gorge, we headed directly to Ngorongoro Crater. In contrast to our 2016 trip (when the landscape was lush and green), the Maasai lands that we traversed en route to the crater were obviously drought-stricken and harbored few birds, although an impending storm was threatening a deluge throughout our drive. Before we knew it, we found ourselves on the rim of the crater, enjoying the spectacular panoramic view. We stopped often on our steep descent, most notably for Abyssinian Wheatear and for the locally distributed Wailing (Lyne’s) Cisticola. Family parties of comical Northern Anteater-Chats necessitated more stops, as did additional wheatears, but we eventually reached the crater floor. Our plan was to ignore most of the common birds and mammals that we knew would be easy to find the next day, and to prioritize the search for Black Rhino, a rare and iconic “mega” mammal that can prove problematic to find in a short visit to the Crater. Unfortunately, as is often the case, our plan to be ruthlessly selective in our stops went out the window as we encountered Abdim’s Storks, Gray Crowned-Cranes, Black- bellied and Kori bustards, and other prizes, not to mention numerous Lions. We ended up spending a fair amount of time with the Lions, so much in fact, that by the time we received word (via radio) of a distant rhino on the other side of the Crater, it was too late to even think about chasing it. We would have to wait for the next day, with fingers crossed! With the clock ticking down to the witching hour when the park gate would be closed for the evening, we crossed the floor of the caldera and then climbed our way up the opposite side through spectacular, Usnea -draped Acacia abysinnica forest, reaching our lovely lodge on the crater rim.

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Broad-ringed White-eye, Ngorongoro Crater rim, March 2018 (© Kevin J. Zimmer)

The next day began with some select stops in the highland forest, where we scored big with numbers of montane specialties, ranging from lovely Golden-winged and Eastern Double-collared sunbirds to a responsive Mountain Yellow-Warbler, the normally furtive Cinnamon Bracken-Warbler, roving bands of goggle-eyed Broad-ringed White-eyes, trees topped by Rameron Pigeons, soaring Mountain Buzzards, and duetting pairs of Hunter’s and Red-faced cisticolas. Our stops for such highland species were surgical in nature, because we wanted to leave as much time for exploration of the crater floor as possible. Once through the entrance gate, we ended up making more stops in the transition zone, for avian fare ranging from a Tree Pipit strolling down the road to a solitary Broad-billed Roller perched atop an umbrella-like acacia, to dead trees festooned with Dusky Turtle-Doves, and even a small group of female Jackson’s Widowbirds following closely behind a spectacularly long-tailed male. Arriving on the crater floor, we found ourselves immersed in throngs of big game, including large herds of African Buffalo, two Black Rhinos (huge sigh of relief!), a plethora of Lions (including some impressively dark-maned adult males; a mating pair; and a big pride of 21: in all, we tallied a remarkable 32 Lions on the day), and scattered Common (Golden) Jackals and Spotted Hyaenas. For all of this, I was most taken by the half-dozen Bat-eared Foxes that showed so nicely for us in midmorning before the light became harsh. We also enjoyed some amazingly up-close-and-personal encounters with more Common Ostriches (20+), Gray Crowned-Cranes (75+), Abdim’s Storks, and Kori and Black-bellied bustards. One of the Kori Bustards was in full display, its head and neck looking like a giant ball of cotton. A late morning stop at the Hippo Pools yielded large flocks of Sacred Ibis and Cattle Egrets, along with a nice variety of waterfowl, shorebirds, and herons, highlighted by Purple Heron, multiple Black Crakes (some of which joined their cousins, the

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 18 Northern Tanzania, February 2018 Eurasian Moorhens, in scampering across the backs of the many hippos), and, most spectacularly, by a responsive pair of African Water Rails, the latter never before seen on this tour.

African Water Rail, Ngorongoro Crater, March 2018 (© Kevin J. Zimmer)

Our picnic lunch site also served up numbers of hippos, Fan-tailed Widowbirds, and bunches of Rufous-tailed and Speke’s weavers that boldly hopped underfoot in hopes of snatching stray crumbs from our box lunches. We took time in the afternoon to enjoy the throngs of Wildebeest. These largely resident herds seemed to exist in an herbivorous state of nirvana, surrounded by grasslands that were much lusher than the parched plains and woodlands we had left behind at Ndutu, and, seemingly, with a lesser exposure to possible predation than faced by their migratory brethren that perpetually follow the rains as they cycle between the Mara and the Serengeti. The bounty of forage on the Crater floor was evidenced by the large numbers of Wildebeest calves that we encountered here, many, many more than what we had seen at Ndutu, where very few cows had dropped their calves. These calves were frisky too, more interested in play than in eating, and many of them were kicking up their heels and chasing one another back-and-forth while their parents grazed. One Wildebeest calf in particular seemed bent on dashing in circles around an increasingly testy zebra, until the zebra finally took umbrage and started chasing the Wildebeest calf with what appeared to be very bad intent. Just in the nick of time, an adult Wildebeest that we assumed to be the mother of the rowdy youngster intercepted the aggressive zebra, blunting its charge and then chasing it into a hasty retreat.

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Common Zebra chasing a frisky Blue Wildebeest calf, Ngorongoro Crater, March 2018 (© Kevin J. Zimmer)

We ended the day with a brief foray into Maasai lands beyond the Crater rim, where we completed another quick strike on a couple of target birds—the drab but perky Moorland (Alpine) Chat and the spectacular Red-collared Widowbird.

The next day began with some productive post-breakfast birding (highlighted by massive-billed White-necked Ravens, dazzling Golden-winged and Tacazze sunbirds, and point-blank studies of the uncommon Brown-backed Woodpecker) on the lodge grounds, after which we set off for Gibb’s Farm, making a couple of brief stops in the montane forest lining the Crater rim before exiting the park. We arrived at Gibb’s Farm in time for a sensational lunch. Afterwards we enjoyed a few hours of relaxed birding on the lovely grounds, delighting in such notables as Sharpe’s Starling, Arrow-marked Babbler, and Green-headed, Variable, and Bronze sunbirds. From here, it was a very short drive to our nearby lodge.

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Brown-backed Woodpecker, Ngorongoro Crater rim, March 2018 (© Kevin J. Zimmer)

Our next day was devoted to exploring Lake Manyara National Park, a small but very diverse park nestled at the base of the Rift Valley escarpment. Highlights here were many, starting with some very close elephants and nice studies of Crowned and Silvery- cheeked hornbills, and of a stunning Purple-crested Turaco in the woodlands, and culminating, in the marshes, in impressive masses of waterfowl (including Comb Ducks, Spur-winged Geese, and Fulvous and White-faced whistling-ducks) and large wading birds, chief among them, colorful Yellow-billed Storks and bizarre African Spoonbills, their numbers liberally seasoned with a sprinkling of Black Herons, egrets of four species, a few Purple Herons, and both Pink-backed and a few Great White pelicans. A dozen Water Thick-knees lining the narrow dirt track through the marshes were a treat, as were the equally close Long-toed Lapwings, African Jacanas, and the somewhat more distant Collared Pratincoles. Good numbers of Palearctic migrant shorebirds, including 20+ Black-tailed Godwits, joined the various resident species. Both species of flamingos were massed on the alkaline flats of the lake itself, but the water had receded to points so distant that the hordes appeared as little more than a pink blur through the afternoon thermal shimmer. Although the day, overall, belonged to wading birds and other marsh- inhabiting species, three spectacular and confiding Red-and-yellow Barbets at our lunch stop made their case for favorite bird of the day, at least among the photographers in our group. Similarly, we enjoyed close studies of no less than 7 Southern Ground-Hornbills, seemingly out of place as they stalked the barren, short grass margins fringing the dried portions of the marsh. A family group of secretive Collared Palm-Thrushes eventually treated us to exceptional studies, and, in my book, would have been deserving of sharing “Bird of the Day” honors with the Purple-crested Turaco. As always, the park was

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 21 Northern Tanzania, February 2018 notable for its abundance of Olive Baboons and Blue (Syke’s) Monkeys, not to mention the lush, but imposing groundwater forest.

Southern Ground-Hornbill, Lake Manyara NP, March 2018 (© Kevin J. Zimmer)

Taking leave of Manyara, we crossed the Maasai country of the Eslale Plains, which in 2017 were pockmarked by ephemeral ponds left in the wake of recent rains, but which, in this dry year, were dusty, and overgrazed by Maasai cattle and goats. A few brief stops along the highway produced several new birds typical of this arid bush country, chief among them a lovely pair of Rosy-patched Bushshrikes. Leaving both the plains and the asphalt behind, we turned off onto the badly corrugated gravel entrance road into Tarangire National Park, the final venue on our tour, and a spectacular area of rolling grassland, studded with huge, picturesque Baobabs and famous for its estimated population of more than 3,000 African Elephants.

As always, the park lived up to its reputation as a premier spot for elephant viewing—we encountered one herd after another (some breathtakingly close), probably involving in excess of 300 individuals, in our one-and-a-half days here, and, in the process, witnessed all kinds of interesting elephant behaviors. And although we were unsuccessful in adding to our tally of spotted cats, we did manage to find 16 Lions in the park, bringing our high- water mark for that species to a remarkable 88, and in the process, setting a trip record (at least during my tenure of guiding this tour) for most Lion encounters. Tarangire proved once again to be a remarkably birdy spot, treating us to a non-stop parade of Yellow- necked, Red-necked, Crested, and Coqui francolins; Black-faced Sandgrouse; endemic Yellow-collared Lovebirds; White-bellied and Bare-faced go-away-birds; Lilac-breasted and European rollers (and even a pair of Rufous-crowned Rollers); Little, Blue-cheeked, and European bee-eaters; bizarre Southern Ground-Hornbills; D’Arnaud’s Barbets;

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 22 Northern Tanzania, February 2018 Magpie Shrikes; Ashy Starlings; and many more. Other notables included Red-fronted Barbet, Blue-naped Mousebird, Freckled Nightjar, Mottled Spinetail, Mosque Swallow, close studies of day-roosting African Scops-Owl, a couple of massive Saddle-billed Storks at Silale Marsh, singing Chestnut Weavers, several species of cuckoos (including some Red-chested Cuckoos at the entrance gate that were remarkably confiding), a European Honey-buzzard, and a surprise African Crake in the relative open, around the edges of a small, muddy pond.

African Crake, Tarangire NP, Tanzania, March 2018 (© Kevin J. Zimmer)

All too soon, we were back in Arusha, with a last lunch and shopping stop at the Cultural Center, and a few hours to relax, re-pack, and reflect on our amazing safari back at the place where it all started a few weeks earlier—Ngare Sero. When the dust had settled, we had tallied a remarkable 455 species of birds (besting all of our Northern Tanzania tours of at least the last 8–10 years), and around 50 species of mammals (probably more with the various rodents and bats that went unidentified).

You all were a great group and I hope our paths cross on future trips. A special thanks to Anthony for keeping us on schedule and for making everything run smoothly, and to our drivers, Geitan and Vincent, for all of their hard work, and for cheerfully and safely escorting us through their fabulous country.

ITINERARY:

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 23 Northern Tanzania, February 2018 2/18 – International flights. For participants who opted to arrive a day early, this was the day of travel from Amsterdam to Arusha, with evening arrival and transfer from Kilimanjaro Airport to Ngare Sero Mountain Lodge. 2/19 – Optional “pre-tour day” of relaxation and birding on Ngare Sero Mountain Lodge grounds (including along the stream down to the trout farms) from 0645h–0745h before breakfast, and from 0900h–1215h after breakfast, and again from 1300h–1700h; followed by dinner at 2000h, and post-dinner owling on the grounds at 2030h. 2/20 – Ngare Sero: breakfast at 0630h, depart 0730h for Arusha NP. Spent a.m. working from main gate to Fig Tree Arch (birding on foot in immediate vicinity of Fig Tree Arch for ca. 45 minutes), then down to Momela Gate for lunch & bathrooms; 1330– 1700h birding along the Momela Lakes loop, exiting park at 1730h. Night at Ngare Sero. 2/21 – Ngare Sero: bags out and breakfast at 0630h, depart 0715h for Kilimanjaro Int. Airport (arrived 0820h), for 0930h flight to Mwanza (arriving 1045h), where we were met by our drivers for the remainder of the trip, Gaitan and Vincent. Flight was 90 minutes. After collecting bags and using restrooms we drove to Speke Bay (leaving airport at 1120 and arriving ca. 1415h), where we had a late lunch, followed by late afternoon birding on foot around lodge from 1630–1845h. 2/22 – Speke Bay: Breakfast 06300h–0715h, followed immediately by morning bird walk around grounds from 0730h–1030h. Bags out at 1100h, with lunch at 1200h; departure at 1315h for west gate (Ndabaka Gate) of Serengeti NP (arrived at gate at 1330h, and used the restrooms and did a few minutes of birding before entering the park at ca. 1400h). Game/birding drive (with a couple stops along the Grumeti River) through western corridor of Serengeti to Kubu Kubu Tented Lodge (arrived 1800h). 2/23 – Serengeti NP: Kubu Kubu: 0630h breakfast, departing at 0730h for morning birding/game drive into the central Serengeti in the Seronera River region. Back to camp by 1340h for late lunch and break until 1600h, when we did another birding/game drive, returning to the camp at 1830h. 2/24 – Serengeti NP: Kubu Kubu: breakfast at 0630h, depart 0730h for birding/game drive to Seronera area, Makoma area (where we intercepted the zebra migration), and the NP Visitor Center, returning to Kubu Kubu at 1320h for late lunch and break until 1600h, when we went to the Retima grasslands, where we birded until 1810h. 2/25 – Serengeti NP: Kubu Kubu: breakfast & bags out at 0630h, with 0730h departure for Seronera area, then to Makoma, across the plains to Simba Kopje, and on to Naabi Hills Gate (where we ate our box lunch and birded some on foot), exiting the park at 1300h. Then birded our way across the western edge of the Naabi-Ndutu Triangle plains to the Ngorongoro Track, which we took east across the plains to the Ndutu woodlands and beyond to Ndutu Safari Lodge (ca. 35 km), arriving at 1715h. 2/26 – Ndutu Safari Lodge: 0700h breakfast, 0800h departure for morning game/birding drive through the Ndutu woodlands northwest to Hidden Valley and Lake Nooseya and back, returning to the lodge at 1330h for late lunch and break until 1630h, followed by birding/game drive to Lake Masek and back, returning to the lodge at 1825h. 2/27 – Ndutu Safari Lodge: 0700h breakfast, 0800h departure for morning game/birding drive through the Marsh Track to the Big Marsh, and on to the Ndutu woodlands and Ndutu Plains. Back to lodge for lunch and break until 1600h, when we did an afternoon excursion through the woodlands bordering Lake Masek.

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 24 Northern Tanzania, February 2018 2/28 – Ndutu Safari Lodge: 0700h breakfast, bags out at 0800h, departure at 0830h for a 2-hour birding/game drive north to Lake Ndutu before going to a nearby ranger station to officially exit the park. We then drove across the Triangle Plains (using the Ngorongoro Track) to Oldupai Gorge. Most folks opted to visit a Maasai village en route, while a couple of us birded our way slowly to the gorge. Once we were all at the gorge, we listened to a lecture, ate our box lunch, toured the museum, and birded briefly around the site. Upon leaving the gorge (1400h), we drove through Maasai land to Ngorongoro Crater, entering at Seneto Gate, descended 2,000’ to the crater floor and driving/birding/game viewing across the crater floor and then ascending the other side, exiting the part at Sopa Gate at 1730h and continuing the short distance to Ngorongoro Sopa Lodge (arriving at 1800h). 3/01 – Ngorongoro Sopa Lodge: breakfast at 0630h, with departure for Ngorongoro Crater at 0730h, and several stops for birds in the montane forest along the road between Sopa Lodge and Sopa Gate (where we entered the park at 0930h), reaching the crater floor (elevation 1745 m) at ca. 1015h. Spent most of the day birding & game viewing (with box lunch) across the crater floor, exiting at Lemala/Sopa Gate at ca. 1645h, and driving to nearby Masai agricultural lands (at ca. 2300–2400 m elevation) beyond the rim to look for widowbirds. Returned to lodge at 1800h. 3/02 – Ngorongoro Sopa Lodge: Breakfast at 0630h, with bags out and post-breakfast bird walk on lodge grounds from 0730h–0830h, followed by checkout and departure at 0845h. Skirted the crater rim, with one stop beside a forest pool for birding, before driving to Louduar Gate, where we birded on foot for 45+ minutes within 100 m of the gate) officially exiting the park at 1100h. From the gate, we drove 30 minutes or so to Karatu and on to Tloma Lodge, where we checked into our rooms and dropped our bags, before driving 10 minutes to nearby Gibbs Farm for 1230h lunch and birding on the grounds until 1645h. Then very short drive back to Tloma Lodge, with the remainder of the afternoon off, but with an optional attempt (successful) for Abyssinian (Montane) Nightjar commencing at 1920h, followed by dinner. 3/03 – Tloma Lodge: breakfast at 0630h, bags out at 0730h, departed at 0800h for Lake Manyara NP, arriving at park at ca. 0900h. All day birding (with sack lunch) in park (park loop + Hippo Pools and back), exiting the park at 1600h, and arriving at Lake Manyara Serena Lodge by 1630h. 3/04 – Lake Manyara Serena Lodge: 0630h breakfast (bags out), with checkout at 0730h and departure at 0800h. Drove to Tarangire NP, with a few brief birding stops on the Eslale and Minjingu Plains (Maasai agricultural lands), arriving at the entrance gate to Tarangire at 1115h. We birded here on foot for over one hour while Anthony and the drivers were checking us in, entering the part at about 1230h. We stopped for lunch and about 45 minutes of birding at Tarangire Safari Lodge, but otherwise birding our way through the “Small Serengeti Circuit” south to Tarangire Sopa Lodge, arriving at 1700h. Checklist session and Freckled Nightjar search from 1845h–2000h, followed by dinner. 3/05 – Tarangire Sopa Lodge: 0630h breakfast; 0730h depart on morning game/birding drive to Silale Marsh and back to lodge for lunch and break from 1330–1600h. Late afternoon game/birding drive from 1600–1800h. 3/06 – Tarangire Sopa Lodge: 0630h breakfast (bags out), followed by checkout and departure by 0730h. We birded our way back to the main gate and exited the park at 1030h. Then, back to Arusha for lunch and shopping at the Cultural Center, where we

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 25 Northern Tanzania, February 2018 said our goodbyes to Anthony. At 1430h returned to Ngare Sero Mountain Lodge, where we had day rooms for packing and cleaning up prior to our transfer to Kilimanjaro International Airport for the late evening flight to Amsterdam. 3/07 – Overnight flights arrive back in US, with connections home.

KEY:

ANP = Arusha National Park AR = vicinity of Arusha, including the highway between Ngare Sero and Kilimanjaro airport, and between Ngare Sero and Arusha city. CR = Crater Rim of Ngorongoro Crater (including Sopa Lodge and crater rim forests between the lodge and Sopa Gate, as well as between lodge and Louduar [exit] Gate, and in the Masai lands surrounding the rim) EP = Eslale Plains (Masai agricultural lands between Lake Manyara and Tarangire) GF = Gibbs Farm & vicinity (including Karatu town, Tloma Lodge and roads in between) LM = Lake Manyara National Park & vicinity, including Manyara Serena Lodge and the entrance road. LV = Lake Victoria region (Mwanza to Speke Bay) Nd = Ndutu area (including Ndutu-Naabi Triangle, Mako Plains, Ndutu Lake, Ndutu Safari Lodge, the big marsh, Lake Masek and all points in between) Ng = Ngorongoro Crater (crater floor and lower slopes inside the park gates including the slope below the entrance gate) NS = Ngare Sero Mountain Lodge & vicinity OG = Oldupai Gorge & vicinity SE = Serengeti NP (including the western corridor from western entrance gate to Kubu Kubu Tented Lodge, Seronera River, the Visitor Center, all points in between, and to Naabi Hills gate, where we exited the park) TA = Tarangire National Park TP = Triangle Plains (between Naabi Hills, Ndutu and Oldupai Gorge) * = Heard only.

BIRDS:

OSTRICH (Struthionidae):

Common Ostrich (Struthio camelus ) - SE, Nd, TP, Ng, TA

DUCKS, GEESE & WATERFOWL (Anatidae):

White-faced Whistling-Duck (Dendrocygna viduata ) - LV, LM, TA Fulvous Whistling-Duck (Dendrocygna bicolor ) - LM Comb Duck (Sarkidiornis melanotos ) - LM, TA Egyptian Goose (Alopochen aegyptiaca ) - ANP, SE, Nd, Ng, LM, TA Spur-winged Goose (Plectropterus gambensis ) - Ng, LM, TA African Black Duck (Anas sparsa ) - Ng

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 26 Northern Tanzania, February 2018 Northern Shoveler (Anas clypeata ) - Ng Red-billed Duck (Teal) (Anas erythrorhyncha ) - SE, Nd, Ng, TA Hottentot Teal (Anas hottentota ) - Ng, LM Cape Teal (Anas capensis ) - ANP, Nd, Ng

GUINEAFOWL (Numididae):

Helmeted Guineafowl (Numida meleagris ) - SE, Nd, Ng, TA

PHEASANTS, GROUSE & ALLIES (Phasianidae):

Harlequin Quail (Coturnix delegorguei ) - SE Scaly Francolin (Pternistis squamatus ) - ANP Hildebrandt’s Francolin (Pternistis hildebrandti ) - CR Yellow-necked Francolin (Spurfowl) (Pternistis leucoscepus ) - TA Gray-breasted Francolin (Spurfowl) (Pternistis rufopictus ) - LV, SE, Nd Red-necked Francolin (Spurfowl) (Pternistis afer ) - TA Crested Francolin (Francolinus sephaena ) - ANP, SE, TA Coqui Francolin (Peliperdix coqui ) - SE, Nd, TA

GREBES (Podicipedidae):

Little Grebe (Tachybaptus ruficollis ) - NS, ANP

FLAMINGOS (Phoenicopteridae):

Greater Flamingo (Phoenicopterus roseus ) - ANP, Nd, LM Lesser Flamingo (Phoenicopterus minor ) - LM

STORKS (Ciconiidae):

African Openbill (Anastomus lamelligerus ) - LV Abdim’s Stork (Ciconia abdimii ) - AR, Ng, EP, TA White Stork (Ciconia ciconia ) - SE, Nd, LM, TA Saddle-billed Stork (Ephippiorhynchus senegalensis ) - TA Marabou Stork (Leptoptilos crumenifer ) - NS, ANP, LV, SE, Nd, Ng, LM Yellow-billed Stork (Mycteria ibis ) - LM

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 27 Northern Tanzania, February 2018

Yellow-billed Stork, Lake Manyara NP, March 2018 (© Kevin J. Zimmer)

CORMORANTS & SHAGS (Phalacrocoracidae):

Long-tailed Cormorant (Microcarbo africanus ) - NS, LV, LM Great Cormorant (Phalacrocorax carbo ) - ANP, LM

PELICANS (Pelecanidae):

Great White Pelican (Pelecanus onocrotalus ) - LM Pink-backed Pelican (Pelecanus rufescens ) - LV, LM HAMERKOP (Scopidae):

Hamerkop (Scopus umbretta ) - NS, LV, SE, EP, TA

HERONS, EGRETS & BITTERNS (Ardeidae):

Gray Heron (Ardea cinerea ) - NS, LV, Nd, Ng, LM, TA Black-headed Heron (Ardea melanocephala ) - AR, LV, SE, Nd, Ng, TA Purple Heron (Ardea purpurea ) - Ng, LM Great Egret (Ardea alba ) - NS, LM, TA Intermediate Egret (Mesophoyx intermedia ) - TA Little Egret (Egretta garzetta ) - ANP, LV, LM Black Heron (Egretta ardesiaca ) - LM Cattle Egret (Bulbulcus ibis ) - LV, Ng, LM, EP, TA Squacco Heron (Ardeola rallioides ) - LV, Ng, LM

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 28 Northern Tanzania, February 2018 Striated (Little) Heron (Butorides striata ) - SE Black-crowned Night-Heron (Nycticorax nycticorax ) - NS, ANP, Ng

IBISES & SPOONBILLS (Threskiornithidae):

Glossy Ibis (Plegadis falcinellus ) - Ng, LM Sacred Ibis (Threskiornis aethiopicus ) - NS, LV, Ng, LM, TA Hadada Ibis (Bostrychia hagedash ) - NS, ANP, LV, SE, LM African Spoonbill (Platalea alba ) - Nd, Ng, LM

SECRETARY-BIRD (Sagittariidae):

Secretary-bird (Sagittarius serpentarius ) - SE, Nd, TP, Ng

HAWKS, EAGLES & KITES (Accipitridae):

Black-shouldered (-winged) Kite (Elanus caeruleus ) - SE, Nd, Ng African Harrier-Hawk (Polyboroides typus ) - Nd

African Harrier-Hawk, Ndutu, Feb 2018 (© Kevin J. Zimmer)

European Honey-buzzard (Pernis apivorus ) - Nd, TA White-headed Vulture (Trigonoceps occipitalis ) - SE Lappet-faced Vulture (Torgos tracehliotus ) - SE, Nd, TP Hooded Vulture (Necrosyrtes monachus ) - SE, Nd White-backed Vulture (Gyps africanus ) - NS, SE, TP, Nd, Ng, LM, TA

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 29 Northern Tanzania, February 2018 Rüppell’s Griffon (Vulture) (Gyps rueppellii ) - SE, Nd, TP, LM Bateleur (Terathopius ecaudatus ) - SE, Nd, LM, EP, TA Black-breasted Snake-Eagle (Circaetus pectoralis ) - SE, Ng, EP Brown Snake-Eagle (Circaetus cinereus ) - SE, Nd, TA Western Banded Snake-Eagle (Circaetus cinerascens ) - LV Crowned Eagle (Stephanoaetus coronatus ) - ANP Martial Eagle (Polemaetus bellicosus ) - SE, Nd Long-crested Eagle (Lophaetus occipitalis ) - LV, Nd, GF, TA Lesser Spotted Eagle (Clanga pomarina ) - Ng Wahlberg’s Eagle (Hieraaetus wahlbergi ) - SE, Nd Ayre’s Eagle (Hieraetus wahlbergi ) - CR {This was the puzzling bird soaring over the lower slopes of the crater on 3/1 that Anthony initially ID’d as a Mountain Buzzard, and which I re-identified as a subadult, light-morph Booted Eagle after a quick look at my photos. Once I was able to view the photos back home on the big screen, I realized that the structure and some plumage details were not right for Booted Eagle either, and thought that the bird was actually an immature Ayre’s (Hawk-) Eagle. I sent the photos to some East Africa experts, including one noted raptor specialist who lives in Kenya, and they confirmed my ID, of a one-year-old Ayre’s Eagle.} Tawny Eagle (Aquila rapax ) - AR, LV, SE, Nd, Ng, TA Steppe Eagle (Aquila nipalensis ) - SE, TP, Ng African Hawk-Eagle (Aquila spilogaster ) - SE, Nd Lizard Buzzard (Kaupifalco monogrammicus ) - NS Dark Chanting-Goshawk (Melierax metabates ) - SE, Nd Eastern Chanting-Goshawk (Melierax poliopterus ) - EP Gabar Goshawk (Micronisus gabar ) - Nd, TA Eurasian Marsh-Harrier (Circus aeruginosus ) - ANP, SE, Ng Pallid Harrier (Circus macrourus ) - SE, Nd, Ng Montagu’s Harrier (Circus pygargus ) - SE, TP, Nd, Ng Ovampo Sparrowhawk (Accipiter ovampensis ) - Nd (Seen only by the folks in Anthony’s vehicle that day.) Black (Yellow-billed) Kite (Milvus migrans ) - LV, Ng, CR, GF, LM, EP African Fish-Eagle (Haliaeetus vocifer ) - NS*, LV, Ng, TA Common Buzzard (Buteo buteo ) - ANP, Ng, LM Mountain Buzzard (Buteo oreophilus ) - ANP, CR Augur Buzzard (Buteo augur ) - ANP, LV, Nd, Ng, CR, LM

BUSTARDS (Otididae):

Kori Bustard (Ardeotis kori ) - SE, TP, Nd, Ng White-bellied Bustard (Eupodotis senegalensis ) - SE, TA Black-bellied Bustard (Lissotis melanogaster ) - Nd, Ng

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 30 Northern Tanzania, February 2018

Displaying male Kori Bustard, Ngorongoro Crater, Tanzania, March 2018 (© Kevin J. Zimmer)

RAILS, GALLINULES & COOTS (Rallidae):

Black Crake (Amaurornis flavirostra ) - NS, SE, Ng, LM African Crake (Crex egregia ) - SE, TA African Water Rail (Rallus caerulescens ) - Ng Eurasian (Common) Moorhen (Gallinula chloropus ) - Ng

CRANES (Gruidae):

Gray Crowned-Crane (Balearica regulorum ) - Nd, Ng, LM, TA

THICK-KNEES (Burnhinidae):

Water Thick-knee (Burhinus vermiculatus ) - LM, TA Spotted Thick-knee (Burhinus capensis ) - SE, Nd, TA

STILTS & AVOCETS (Recurvirostridae):

Black-winged Stilt (Himantopus himantopus ) - ANP, SE, Nd, Ng, LM, TA

PLOVERS & LAPWINGS (Charadriidae):

Long-toed Lapwing (Plover) (Vanellus crassirostris ) - Ng, LM, TA Blacksmith Plover (Lapwing) (Vanellus armatus ) - ANP, SE, Nd, Ng, LM, TA

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 31 Northern Tanzania, February 2018 Spur-winged Plover (Lapwing) (Vanellus spinosus ) - SE, LM Senegal Lapwing (Plover) (Vanellus lugubris ) - SE Black-winged Lapwing (Plover) (Vanellus melanopterus ) - SE, Nd, TP Crowned Lapwing (Plover) (Vanellus coronatus ) - SE, Nd, TP, Ng, LM, TA Kittlitz’s Plover (Charadrius pecuarius ) - Nd Common Ringed Plover (Charadrius hiaticula ) - LV, Nd Three-banded Plover (Charadrius tricollaris ) - ANP, SE, Nd, Ng, LM Chestnut-banded Plover (Charadrius pallidus ) - Nd

Three-banded Plover, Serengeti NP, February 2018 (© Kevin J. Zimmer)

PAINTED-SNIPES (Rostratulidae):

Greater Painted-Snipe (Rostratula benghalensis ) - ANP

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 32 Northern Tanzania, February 2018

Greater Painted-Snipe (male), Arusha NP, February 2018 (© Kevin J. Zimmer)

JACANAS (Jacanidae):

African Jacana (Actophilornis africanus ) - NS, ANP, Ng, LM, TA

SANDPIPERS & ALLIES (Scolopacidae):

Black-tailed Godwit (Limosa limosa ) - LM Ruff (Calidris pugnax ) - ANP, SE, Nd, Ng, LM, TA Curlew Sandpiper (Calidris ferruginea ) - Nd Little Stint (Calidris minuta ) - ANP, SE, Nd, Ng, LM Common Snipe (Gallinago gallinago ) - SE, Nd, LM Common Sandpiper (Actitis hypoleucos ) - ANP, LV, SE, Ng, LM Green Sandpiper (Tringa ochropus ) - ANP, LV, SE, TA Common Greenshank (Tringa nebularia ) - ANP, LV, SE, Nd, TA Marsh Sandpiper (Tringa stagnatilis ) - ANP, SE, Nd, LM Wood Sandpiper (Tringa glareola ) - ANP, LV, SE, Nd, Ng, LM, TA

PRATINCOLES & COURSERS (Glareolidae):

Temminck’s Courser (Cursorius temminckii ) - SE, Nd Double-banded Courser (Smutsornis africanus ) - SE, Nd, TP Three-banded (Heuglin’s) Courser (Rhinoptilus cinctus ) - LV, Nd Collared Pratincole (Glareola pratincola ) - SE, Nd, LM, TA

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 33 Northern Tanzania, February 2018 GULLS, TERNS & SKIMMERS (Laridae):

Gull-billed Tern (Geolochelidon nilotica ) - LV, Nd, LM White-winged Tern (Chlidonias leucopterus ) - ANP, LV, LM Whiskered Tern (Chlidonias hybrida ) - LV, LM, TA

SANDGROUSE (Pteroclidae):

Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouse (Pterocles exustus ) - Nd, TP Yellow-throated Sandgrouse (Pterocles gutturalis ) - Nd Black-faced Sandgrouse (Pterocles decoratus ) - SE, TA

PIGEONS & DOVES (Columbidae):

Rock Pigeon (Columba livia ) - Seen in various cities and towns along our route, including Arusha and Mwanza. Speckled Pigeon (Columba guinea ) - SE, Nd, CR, TA Rameron (African Olive) Pigeon (Columba arquatrix ) - CR Dusky Turtle-Dove (Streptopelia lugens ) - Ng Mourning Collared-Dove (Streptopelia decipiens ) - LV, SE*, Nd Red-eyed Dove (Streptopelia semitorquata ) - NS, ANP, CR, GF, LM Ring-necked Dove (Streptopelia capicola ) - ANP*, LV, SE, Nd, OG, LM*, TA Laughing Dove (Streptopelia senegalensis ) - SE, Nd, TA Emerald-spotted Wood-Dove (Turtur chalcospilos ) - LV, SE, LM, TA Tambourine Dove (Turtur tympanistria ) - NS, ANP*, GF Namaqua Dove (Oena capensis ) - SE, Nd, TA African Green-Pigeon (Treron calvus ) - NS, LM

TURACOS (Musophagidae):

Schalow’s Turaco (Tauraco schalowi ) - CR Hartlaub’s Turaco (Tauraco hartlaubi ) - ANP Purple-crested Turaco (Tauraco porphyreolophus ) - LM Bare-faced Go-away-bird (Corythaixoides personatus ) - SE, TA White-bellied Go-away-bird (Corythaixoides leucogaster ) - TA Eastern Plantain-eater (Crinifer zonurus ) - LV (Leader only, between Mwanza and Speke Bay.), SE

CUCKOOS (Cuculidae):

White-browed Coucal (Centropus superciliosus ) - ANP*, LV, SE, Nd, Ng, LM*, TA Great Spotted Cuckoo (Clamator glandarius ) - SE, TA Pied (Jacobin) Cuckoo (Clamator jacobinus ) - SE, Ng, TA Dideric Cuckoo (Chrysococcyx caprius ) - SE, Nd, LM, TA Klaas’s Cuckoo (Chrysococcyx klaas ) - Nd, LM*, TA*

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 34 Northern Tanzania, February 2018 African Emerald Cuckoo (Chrysococcyx cupreus ) - NS*, CR Red-chested Cuckoo (Cuculus solitarius ) - LV, LM*, TA African Cuckoo (Cuculus gularis ) - SE, Nd, TA Common (Eurasian) Cuckoo (Cuculus canorus ) - TA Cuckoo sp. (Cuculus canorus/gularis ) - TA (Multiple individuals flushed here that were not seen well enough to distinguish between African vs. Common cuckoo.)

Red-chested Cuckoo, Tarangire NP, March 2018 (© Kevin J. Zimmer)

OWLS (Strigidae):

African Scops-Owl (Otus senegalensis ) - TA Verreaux’s Eagle-Owl (Bubo lacteus ) - NS (Seen only by KJZ and Martha, the day before the trip officially started.), SE, Nd, CR* Pearl-spotted Owlet (Glaucidium perlatum ) - LV, SE, Nd, LM, TA African Wood-Owl (Strix woodfordii ) - NS

NIGHTJARS & ALLIES (Caprimulgidae):

Eurasian Nightjar (Caprimulgus europaeus ) - LV Sombre (Dusky) Nightjar (Caprimulgus fraenatus ) - SE Abyssinian (Montane) Nightjar (Caprimulgus poliocephalus ) - GF Freckled Nightjar (Caprimulgus tristigma ) - TA Slender-tailed Nightjar (Caprimulgus clarus ) - LV Square-tailed (Gabon) Nightjar (Caprimulgus fossii ) - LV

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 35 Northern Tanzania, February 2018

SWIFTS (Apodidae):

Mottled Spinetail (Telacanthura ussheri ) - LM, TA Scarce Swift (Schoutedenapus myoptilus ) - ANP Alpine Swift (Apus melba ) - ANP African (African Black) Swift (Apus barbatus ) - ANP Little Swift (Apus affinis ) - NS, ANP, LV, SE, LM, TA Horus Swift (Apus horus ) - ANP, LM White-rumped Swift (Apus caffer ) - NS, ANP, SE, CR, TA African Palm-Swift (Cypsiurus parvus ) - NS, LV, SE, TA

MOUSEBIRDS (Coliidae):

Speckled Mousebird (Colius striatus ) - ANP, LV, SE, Nd, OG, Ng, CR, GF, LM, TA Blue-naped Mousebird (Urocolius macrourus ) - LV, SE*, Nd, LM, EP

TROGONS (Trogonidae):

Bar-tailed Trogon (Apaloderma vittatum ) - ANP

HOOPOES (Upupidae):

Eurasian (“African”) Hoopoe (Upupa [epops]africana ) - SE, Nd, TA{Some authorities split the subspecies africana , treating it as distinct from Eurasian Hoopoe (in which case, africana would be called “African Hoopoe”). The two differ in degree of color saturation, and distribution of white in the wings and the color of the tips of the crest feathers, but the subspecies of Eurasian Hoopoe that breeds in s Ethiopia (senegalensis ) is somewhat intermediate between the “African Hoopoe” and the remainder of the Eurasian Hoopoe complex, which suggests that only one species is involved.}

WOODHOOPOES & SCIMITAR-BILLS (Phoeniculidae):

Green Wood-Hoopoe (Phoeniculus purpureus ) - SE, Nd, TA Abyssinian Scimitar-bill (Rhinopomastus minor ) - Nd, TA

GROUND-HORNBILLS (Bucorvidae):

Southern Ground-Hornbill (Bucorvus leadbeateri ) - SE, LM, TA

HORNBILLS (Bucerotidae):

Crowned Hornbill (Tockus alboterminatus ) - ANP, LM

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 36 Northern Tanzania, February 2018 African Gray Hornbill (Tockus nasutus ) - SE, LM, TA Von der Decken’s Hornbill (Tockus deckeni ) - SE, Nd, TA Tanzanian Red-billed Hornbill (Tockus ruahae ) - SE {This is a recent split from what used to be called simply “Red-billed Hornbill”, which is now divided by most authorities into multiple species. This ‘new’ species is separable by the large dark smudge surrounding the contrastingly pale eye; the white, unstreaked face; and the less checkered pattern to the wings. Northern Red-billed Hornbill, which we saw at Tarangire, has dark eyes, with only a narrow dark orbital ring (no extensive dusky patch), a gray-streaked face, and more extensive checkering on the wings. The range of ruahae (which is endemic to Tanzania) is still being worked out, as is the nature of the contact zone with Northern Red-billed Hornbill.} Northern Red-billed Hornbill (Tockus erythrorhynchus ) - TA Silvery-cheeked Hornbill (Ceratogymna brevis ) - NS, ANP*, LM

KINGFISHERS (Alcedinidae):

Malachite Kingfisher (Corythornis cristatus ) - LV, Ng, LM to TA African Pygmy Kingfisher (Ispidina picta ) - ANP, LV Gray-headed Kingfisher (Halcyon leucocephala ) - LV, SE, LM, TA Woodland Kingfisher (Halcyon senegalensis ) - LV, Nd*, LM to TA Brown-hooded Kingfisher (Halcyon albiventris ) - NS, ANP Striped Kingfisher (Halcyon chelicuti ) - SE, TA Giant Kingfisher (Megaceryle maximus ) - NS Pied Kingfisher (Ceryle rudis ) - LV

Woodland Kingfisher, Tarangire NP, March 2018 (© Kevin J. Zimmer)

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 37 Northern Tanzania, February 2018

BEE-EATERS (Meropidae):

White-fronted Bee-eater (Merops bullockoides ) - ANP Little Bee-eater (Merops pusillus ) - ANP, LV, SE, Nd, TA Cinnamon-chested Bee-eater (Merops oreobates ) - ANP White-throated Bee-eater (Merops albicollis ) - LV Blue-cheeked Bee-eater (Merops persicus ) - LV, LM, TA European Bee-eater (Merops apiaster ) - ANP, SE, GF, LM, TA

White-fronted Bee-eater, Arusha NP, February 2018 (© Kevin J. Zimmer)

ROLLERS (Coraciidae):

European Roller (Coracias garrulous ) - ANP, SE, Nd, Ng, LM, EP, TA Lilac-breasted Roller (Coracicus caudatus ) - AR, SE, Nd, Ng, EP, TA Rufous-crowned (Purple) Roller (Coracicus naevius ) - TA Broad-billed Roller (Eurystomus glaucurus ) - Ng, LM

AFRICAN BARBETS (Lybiidae):

Red-and-yellow Barbet (Trachyphonus erythrocephalus ) - LM, TA D’Arnaud’s Barbet (Trachyphonus darnaudii emini ) - LM*, TA {We saw two different taxa in this complex during our tour. Birds in the west, from Speke Bay to the Serengeti and Ndutu are definitely of the subspecies usambiro, and are treated by some authorities as a separate species, “Usambiro Barbet”. The population around Lake

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 38 Northern Tanzania, February 2018 Manyara (heard only this year) is supposed to belong to the subspecies boehmi , and they are different in plumage characters from usambiro to the west, and from the Tarangire birds, which I believe to represent the subspecies emini (distinguishable by the black crown and more solidly black chin/throat. To my ears, the voices of usambiro and emini are distinctly different, and neither seems to respond well to playback of the other’s duets.} “Usambiro” Barbet (Trachyphonus d. usambiro ) - LV, SE, Nd White-eared Barbet (Stactolaema leucotis ) - NS, ANP Moustached Tinkerbird (Pogoniulus pusillus ) - ANP Red-fronted Tinkerbird (Pogoniulus pusillus ) - SE, LM Yellow-rumped Tinkerbird Red-fronted Barbet (Tricholaema diademata ) - SE, TA Black-billed Barbet (Lybius guifsobalito ) - LV Brown-breasted Barbet (Lybius melanopterus ) - NS, ANP

HONEYGUIDES (Indicatoridae):

(Eastern) Green-backed (Slender-billed) Honeyguide (Prodotiscus zambesiae ) - NS{This species suffers from an identity crisis! It has variously been called “Slender- billed Honeyguide”, “Eastern Honeybird”, “Green-backed Honeybird”, and now, “Green- backed Honeyguide”. “Slender-billed” makes sense as a modifier when the group-name of “Honeyguide” is employed for the genus Prodotiscus , because this species is distinctly slender-billed compared to the “true” honeyguides (genus Indicator ). However, all of the Prodotiscus are slender-billed compared to Indicator , which is the rationale behind calling all of the Prodotiscus “honeybirds” as opposed to “honeyguides”. The present species ( zambesiae ) is distinctly green-backed compared to the sympatric Wahlberg’s Honeybird, hence the reasoning behind the switch to “Green-backed” as a modifier.} Pallid Honeyguide (Indicator meliphilus ) - LM Lesser Honeyguide (Indicator minor ) - LM Greater Honeyguide (Indicator indicator ) - SE, TA

WOODPECKERS (Picidae):

Nubian Woodpecker (Campethera nubica ) - Nd, TA Cardinal Woodpecker (Dendropicos fuscescens ) - NS, LV, Nd, GF Bearded Woodpecker (Dendropicos namaquus ) - SE, Nd, TA Mountain Gray Woodpecker (Dendropicos spodocephalus rhodeogaster ) - ANP, LV, SE, TA {Now widely considered to be specifically distinct from (African) Gray Woodpecker [ D. goertae ] of farther north and west. Nominate spodocephalus occurs in Sudan and the Ethiopian highlands; rhodeogaster is found from c Kenya south to n Tanzania.} Brown-backed Woodpecker (Dendropicos obsoletus ) - CR

FALCONS & CARACARAS (Falconidae):

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 39 Northern Tanzania, February 2018 Pygmy Falcon (Polihierax semitorquatus ) - SE, Nd, EP, TA Lesser Kestrel (Falco naumanni ) - SE, Nd, TP, TA Eurasian Kestrel (Falco tinnunculus ) - SE, Nd, TP, Ng Greater Kestrel (Falco rupicoloides ) - SE, TP Gray Kestrel (Falco ardosiaceus ) - SE, TA Lanner Falcon (Falco biarmicus ) - Ng

OLD WORLD PARROTS (Psittaculidae):

Fischer’s Lovebird (Agapornis fischeri ) - SE, Nd, LM Yellow-collared Lovebird (Agapornis personatus ) - TA Meyer’s (Brown) Parrot (Poicephalus meyeri ) - SE, LM, TA Red-bellied (Orange-bellied) Parrot (Poicephalus rufiventris ) - TA

WATTLE-EYES & BATISES (Platysteiridae):

Black-throated Wattle-eye (Platysteira peltata ) - NS Chinspot Batis (Batis molitor ) - ANP, SE, Nd, OG, GF

VANGAS, HELMETSHRIKES & ALLIES (Vangidae):

Retz’s Helmetshrike (Prionops retzii ) - NS

BUSHSHRIKES & ALLIES (Malaconotidae):

Brubru (Nilaus afer ) - Nd, LM, TA* Black-backed Puffback (Dryoscopus cubla ) - NS, ANP, LV, SE, GF, TA Black-crowned Tchagra (Tchagra senegalus ) - Ng, LM* Brown-crowned Tchagra (Tchagra australis ) - SE Tropical Boubou (Laniarius aethiopicus ) - NS*, ANP*, CR, GF Black-headed Gonolek (Laniarius erythrogaster ) - LV, SE Slate-colored Boubou (Laniarius funebris ) - SE, Nd, Ng, LM, TA Rosy-patched Bushshrike (Rhodophoneus cruentus ) - EP Sulphur-breasted Bushshrike (Telophorus sulfureopectus )* - Nd*

SHRIKES (Laniidae):

Red-backed Shrike (Lanius collurio ) - Nd Isabelline (Red-tailed) Shrike (Lanius isabellinus ) - SE, Nd, LM, TA Gray-backed Fiscal (Lanius excubitorius ) - LV, SE, Nd Long-tailed Fiscal (Lanius cabanisi ) - LM, TA Taita Fiscal (Lanius dorsalis ) - Nd, TP, OG Northern Fiscal (Lanius humeralis ) - ANP, AR, Ng, CR, GF, LM Magpie Shrike (Corvinella melanoleuca ) - SE, TA

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 40 Northern Tanzania, February 2018 White-rumped (Northern White-crowned) Shrike (Eurocephalus anguitimens ) - SE, Nd, TA

OLD WORLD ORIOLES (Oriolidae):

African Black-headed Oriole (Oriolus larvatus ) - NS, TA*

DRONGOS (Dicruridae):

Fork-tailed Drongo (Dicrurus adsimilis ) - SE, Nd, TA

MONARCH FLYCATCHERS (Monarchidae):

African Paradise-Flycatcher (Terpsiphone viridis ) - NS, ANP, LV, CR, GF

CROWS, JAYS & MAGPIES (Corvidae):

Cape Crow (Cape Rook) (Corvus capensis ) - Nd, TP Pied Crow (Corvus albus ) - ANP, AR, LV, SE, GF, LM, EP White-necked Raven (Corvus albicollis ) - CR, GF*

LARKS (Alaudidae):

Fischer’s Sparrow-Lark (Eremopterix leucopareia ) - SE, Nd, TP, LM Foxy Lark (Calendula alopex ) - SE, Nd {Formerly treated as conspecific with Fawn- colored Lark ( C. africanoides ) of more southerly African distribution (Angola, Mozambique, Zambia, Zimbabwe, Namibia, Botswana, South Africa). When all populations were lumped, the English name applied is “Fawn-colored”. With the split, “Fawn-colored Lark” ( sensu stricto ), does not occur in Tanzania. “Foxy Lark” occurs from N Somalia and extreme E Ethiopia south through E Uganda, Kenya and N Tanzania. The species takes its English name from the nominate populations of Somalia and Ethiopia, which are decidedly more rufescent than the populations of Uganda, Kenya and Tanzania (subspecies intercedens ), which are not notably “foxy” in coloration, and which more closely resemble true “Fawn-colored Lark” of more southerly distribution. So, everything we saw is now referable to the intercedens subspecies of Foxy Lark.} Rufous-naped Lark (Mirafra africana ) - ANP, SE, TP, Nd, Ng Flappet Lark (Mirafra rufocinnamomea ) - SE Red-capped Lark (Calandrella cinerea ) - Nd, TP, OG, Ng Short-tailed Lark (Pseudalaemon fremantlii ) - Nd

SWALLOWS (Hirundinidae):

Plain (Brown-throated) Martin (Riparia paludicola ) - ANP Bank Swallow (Sand Martin) (Riparia riparia ) - TA

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 41 Northern Tanzania, February 2018 Banded Martin (Riparia cincta ) - Ng Rock Martin (Ptyonoprogne (Hirundo) fuligula ) - ANP, SE, CR, LM Barn Swallow (Hirundo rustica ) - Seen daily, and at all locales except for NS and CR. Angola Swallow (Hirundo angolensis ) - LV Wire-tailed Swallow (Hirundo smithii ) - NS, ANP, SE, Nd Red-rumped Swallow (Cecropis (Hirundo) daurica ) - SE, Nd, Ng, CR Lesser Striped-Swallow (Cecropis (Hirundo) abyssinica ) - ANP, SE, TA Mosque Swallow (Cecropis (Hirundo) senegalensis ) - TA Common House-Martin (Delichon urbicum ) - NS, ANP Black Sawwing (Psalidoprocne pristoptera ) - NS, ANP, CR

FAIRY FLYCATCHERS (Stenostiridae):

White-tailed Blue-Flycatcher (Elminia albicauda ) - CR

CHICKADEES & TITS (Paridae):

Red-throated Tit (Melaniparus fringillinus ) - Nd, TA

PENDULINE-TITS (Remizidae):

African (Gray) Penduline-Tit (Anthoscopus caroli ) - SE

BULBULS (Pycnonotidae):

Eastern Mountain-Greenbul (Arizelocichla nigriceps ) - ANP Stripe-cheeked Greenbul (Arizelocichla milanjensis ) - ANP Yellow-bellied Greenbul (Chlorocichla flaviventris ) - LM Little Greenbul (Eurillas virens )* - NS* Gray-olive Greenbul (Phyllastrephus cerviniventris ) - NS, LM Common (Dark-capped) Bulbul (Pycnonotus barbatus ) - NS, ANP, LV, SE, CR, GF, LM, TA (“The usual suspect”)

AFRICAN WARBLERS (Macrospenidae):

Red-faced Crombec (Sylvietta whytii ) - ANP, SE, Nd, LM, TA (African) Moustached Grass-Warbler (Melocichla mentalis ) - ANP

LEAF-WARBLERS (Phylloscopidae):

Brown Woodland-Warbler (Phylloscopus umbrovirens ) - ANP Willow Warbler (Phylloscopus trochilus ) - ANP, LV, Nd, CR, LM, TA

REED-WARBLERS & ALLIES (Acrocephalidae):

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 42 Northern Tanzania, February 2018 Eastern Olivaceous Warbler (Iduna pallida ) - LV, Nd, LM, TA Mountain Yellow-Warbler (Iduna similis ) - CR Olive-tree Warbler (Hippolais olivetorum ) - EP Eurasian Reed-Warbler (Acrocephalus scirpaceus ) - LV, Ng Lesser Swamp-Warbler (Acrocephalus gracilirostris )* - LM* Great Reed-Warbler (Acrocephalus arundinaceus ) - LV

GRASSBIRDS & ALLIES (Locustellidae):

Cinnamon Bracken-Warbler (Bradypterus cinnamomeus ) - CR Little Rush-Warbler (Bradypterus baboecala ) - LM

CISTICOLAS & ALLIES (Cisticolidae):

Bar-throated Apalis (Apalis thoracica ) - CR Yellow-breasted Apalis (Apalis flavida ) - ANP, LV, SE, Nd, LM Black-headed Apalis (Apalis melanocephala ) - ANP Brown-headed Apalis (Apalis alticola ) - CR Karamoja Apalis (Apalis karamojae ) - SE Green-backed Camaroptera (Camaroptera brachyura ) - NS, ANP, SE, Nd, OG, Ng*, CR, GF, LM, TA Red-faced Cisticola (Cisticola erythrops ) - ANP*, CR, GF Singing Cisticola (Cisticola cantans ) - ANP Trilling Cisticola (Cisticola woosnami ) - ANP Hunter’s Cisticola (Cisticola hunteri ) - CR Rattling Cisticola (Cisticola chiniana ) - ANP, SE, Nd, EP, TA Wailing (“Lyne’s”) Cisticola (Cisticola [lais] distinctus ) - Ng {The northern subspecies distinctus (= “Lyne’s Cisticola”) which we saw below the entrance gate to the crater, is often treated as specifically distinct from more southern nominate birds.} Winding Cisticola (Cisticola galactotes ) - ANP, SE, Ng, LM, TA Croaking Cisticola (Cisticola natalensis ) - SE, TA Zitting Cisticola (Cisticola juncidis ) - SE Desert Cisticola (Cisticola aridulus ) - SE, Nd Pectoral-patch Cisticola (Cisticola brunnescens ) - SE, Ng Gray-capped Warbler (Eminia lepida ) - LV, CR Buff-bellied Warbler (Phyllolais pulchella ) - LV, Nd Tawny-flanked Prinia (Prinia subflava ) - LV, SE, TA Yellow-bellied Eremomela (Eremomela icteropygialis ) - SE, EP, TA

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 43 Northern Tanzania, February 2018

Wailing (Lyne’s) Cisticola, Ngorongoro Crater slopes, February 2018 (© Kevin J. Zimmer)

SYLVIIDS (Sylviidae):

African Hill Babbler (Sylvia abyssinica ) - CR Eurasian Blackcap (Sylvia atricapilla ) - CR Garden Warbler (Sylvia borin ) - LV Barred Warbler (Sylvia nisoria ) - Nd (KJZ only; a female photographed outside my cabin is a rarity here.) Banded Warbler (Parisoma) (Sylvia boehmi ) - SE, Nd Brown Warbler (Parisoma) (Sylvia lugens ) - CR Greater Whitethroat (Sylvia communis ) - SE, EP

WHITE-EYES, YUHINAS & ALLIES (Zosteropidae):

Broad-ringed (Montane) White-eye (Zosterops poliogastrus ) - ANP, CR White-breasted (Abyssinian) White-eye (Zosterops abyssinicus ) - OG

LAUGHINGTHRUSHES & ALLIES (Leiothrichidae):

Rufous Chatterer (Turdoides rubiginosa ) - Nd Black-lored Babbler (Turdoides sharpie ) - SE, Nd Northern Pied-Babbler (Turdoides hypoleuca ) - TA Arrow-marked Babbler (Turdoides jardineii ) - GF

OLD WORLD FLYCATCHERS (Muscicapidae):

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 44 Northern Tanzania, February 2018

Dusky-brown Flycatcher (African Dusky Flycatcher) (Muscicapa adusta ) - ANP, CR Spotted Flycatcher (Muscicapa striata ) - Nd, LM, TA Swamp Flycatcher (Muscicapa aquatica ) - LV Grayish (African Gray) Flycatcher (Bradornis microrhynchus ) - LV, SE, Nd, EP, TA Silverbird (Empidornis semipartitus ) - LV, SE, Nd, TA Southern Black-Flycatcher (Melaenornis pammelaina ) - SE White-eyed Slaty-Flycatcher (Melaenornis edolioides ) - ANP, CR, GF Red-backed (White-browed) Scrub-Robin (Cercotrichas leucophrys ) - ANP, TA Cape Robin-Chat (Cossypha caffra ) - ANP, CR Rüpell’s Robin-Chat (Cossypha semirufa ) - NS*, CR, GF White-browed Robin-Chat (Cossypha heuglini ) - SE, Ng, GF Collared Palm-Thrush (Cichladusa arquata ) - LM Spotted Morning-Thrush (Cichladusa guttata ) - LV, SE, EP White-starred Robin (Pogonocichla stellata ) - ANP White-throated Robin (Irania) (Irania gutturalis ) - SE, OG Common Nightingale (Luscinia megarhynchos ) - ANP*, LM Rufous-tailed (Common) Rock-Thrush (Monticola saxatilis ) - SE, Nd, EP Whinchat (Saxicola rubetra ) - ANP, SE, Nd, Ng

Collared Palm-Thrush, Lake Manyara NP, March 2018 (© Kevin J. Zimmer)

African Stonechat (Saxicola rubicola ) - ANP, Ng, CR {The taxonomy of this “species” is complex and remains controversial. There are 24 recognized subspecies, some of which occur in Africa only as Palearctic passage migrants or winter residents,

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 45 Northern Tanzania, February 2018 and others of which are resident breeders in Africa. Some taxonomists split these 24 subspecies into 3–5 species, but others argue for single-species treatment and suggest that some of the named subspecies are invalid. The subspecies albofasciatus , which is a resident of the highlands of Ethiopia, seems reasonably distinct, but I don’t see much morphological variation between the subspecies that breed in northern Tanzania, and the migrant/wintering populations from Europe. In the absence of a comprehensive analysis that adequately samples all named taxa, I’m inclined to cast my lot with the “single- species treatment”.} Northern Anteater-Chat (Myrmecocichla aethiops ) - Ng Moorland (Alpine) Chat (Cercomela sordida ) - CR Northern Wheatear (Oenanthe oenanthe ) - SE, Nd, Ng, TP Abyssinian (“Schalow’s”) Wheatear (Oenanthe [lugubris] schalowi ) - Ng, LM {The subspecies schalowi of Kenya & Tanzania is sometimes treated as a separate species from the Ethiopian and Somalian populations. Also known as “Mourning Wheatear”.} Pied Wheatear (Oenanthe pleschanka ) - SE, Nd, EP Capped Wheatear (Oenanthe pileata ) - Nd, TP, OG, Ng Isabelline Wheatear (Oenanthe isabellina ) - TP

THRUSHES & ALLIES (Turdidae):

Abyssinian (Olive) Thrush (Turdus [o.] abyssinicus ) - ANP, CR {This is another case where the species-limits are controversial. There seems to be some momentum for separating out the more northern taxa (Eritrea and Ethiopia south to N Malawi and NE Zambia, and including all of East Africa = Abyssinian Thrush) from the olivaceus -group (S Malawi south through South Africa = Olive Thrush), with some taxonomists also maintaining the highly range-restricted T. helleri (Taita Thrush) of the Taita Hills (SE Kenya), and T. roehli (Usambara Thrush) of the North Pare and Usambara (West & East) mountains as distinct species. I believe that the birds that we saw are referable to the subspecies deckeni (ANP) and oldeani (CR), both of which are part of Abyssinian Thrush (sensu stricto ).} African Thrush (Turdus pelios ) - LV

STARLINGS (Sturnidae):

Wattled Starling (Creatophora cinerea ) - SE, Nd, TA Violet-backed Starling (Cinnyricinclus leucogaster ) - CR Red-winged Starling (Onychognathus morio ) - NS, LM, TA Waller’s Starling (Onychognathus walleri ) - CR Sharpe’s Starling (Pholia sharpii ) - GF Kenrick’s Starling (Poeoptera kenricki ) - NS Hildebrandt’s Starling (Lamprotornis hildebrandti ) - SE, Nd, TA Rüppell’s Starling (Lamprotornis purpuroptera ) - SE, TA Ashy Starling (Spreo unicolor ) - TA Superb Starling (Lamprotornis superbus ) - LV, SE, Nd, Ng, LM, TA Greater Blue-eared Starling (Lamprotornis chalybeus ) - TA

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 46 Northern Tanzania, February 2018

Sharpe’s Starling, Gibbs Farm, March 2018 (© Kevin J. Zimmer)

OXPECKERS (Buphagidae):

Red-billed Oxpecker (Buphagus erythrorhynchus ) - ANP, Nd, Ng, LM, TA Yellow-billed Oxpecker (Buphagus africanus ) - SE, Nd, Ng, TA

SUNBIRDS & SPIDERHUNTERS (Nectariniidae):

Kenya Violet-backed Sunbird (Anthreptes orientalis ) - EP Collared Sunbird (Hedydipna collaris ) - NS, ANP Green-headed Sunbird (Cyanomitra verticalis ) - GF Eastern Olive Sunbird (Cyanomitra olivacea ) - NS Amethyst Sunbird (Chalcomitra amethystina ) - ANP Scarlet-chested Sunbird (Chalcomitra senegalensis ) - LV, SE, Nd, OG Tacazze Sunbird (Nectarinia tacazze ) - CR Bronze Sunbird (Nectarinia kilimensis ) - ANP, CR Golden-winged Sunbird (Drepanorhynchus reichenowi ) - CR Eastern Double-collared Sunbird (Cinnyris mediocris ) - CR Beautiful Sunbird (Cinnyris pulchellus ) - LV, SE, Nd, OG, TA Mariqua Sunbird (Cinnyris mariquensis ) - Nd Red-chested Sunbird (Cinnyris erythrocercus ) - LV Variable Sunbird (Cinnyris venustus ) - ANP, Nd, GF, EP

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 47 Northern Tanzania, February 2018

Green-headed Sunbird, Gibbs Farm, Karatu, March 2018 (© Kevin J. Zimmer)

WAGTAILS & PIPITS (Motacillidae):

Western Yellow Wagtail (Motacilla flava ) - LV, SE, Nd, Ng, LM, TA Mountain Wagtail (Motacilla clara ) - NS African Pied Wagtail (Motacilla aguimp ) - NS, LV, SE, GF, LM, TA African (Grassland) Pipit (Anthus cinnamomeus ) - ANP, SE, Nd, Ng Long-billed Pipit (Anthus similis ) - ANP, Ng Plain-backed Pipit (Anthus leucophrys ) - SE, Nd Tree Pipit (Anthus trivialis ) - CR Yellow-throated Longclaw (Macronyx croceus ) - SE Pangani Longclaw (Macronyx aurantiigula ) - TA Rosy-throated Longclaw (Macronyx ameliae ) - Ng (Leader only; when we were rushing to make it out the gate before closing, and we couldn’t stop.)

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 48 Northern Tanzania, February 2018

Pangani Longclaw, Tarangire NP, March 2018 (© Kevin J. Zimmer)

BUNTINGS & NEW WORLD SPARROWS (Emberizidae):

Cinnamon-breasted (Rock-) Bunting (Emberiza tahapisi ) - SE Golden-breasted Bunting (Emberiza flaviventris )* - SE*

FINCHES, CANARIES & ALLIES (Fringillidae):

Yellow-fronted Canary (Serinus mozambicus ) - LV Southern Citril (Serinus hypostictus ) - CR, GF Reichenow’s (Yellow-rumped) Seedeater (Serinus reichenowi ) - LV, SE, LM White-bellied Canary (Serinus dorsostriatus ) - LV, SE, Nd, OG, LM Streaky Seedeater (Serinus striolatus ) - CR Thick-billed Seedeater (Serinus burtoni ) - CR

OLD WORLD SPARROWS (Passeridae):

House Sparrow (Passer domesticus ) - SE, GF, AR, LV (Mwanza) Kenya Rufous Sparrow (Passer rufocinctus ) - SE, Nd, OG, EP, TA Northern Gray-headed Sparrow (Passer griseus ) - ANP, GF, LM Swahili Sparrow (Passer suahelicus ) - SE, Nd, TA Chestnut Sparrow (Passer eminibey ) - SE, Nd, TA Yellow-spotted Petronia (Petronia pyrgita ) - LM

WEAVERS & ALLIES (Ploceidae):

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 49 Northern Tanzania, February 2018

Red-billed Buffalo-Weaver (Bubalornis niger ) - SE, Nd, TA White-headed Buffalo-Weaver (Dinemellia dinemelli ) - SE, Nd, TA Speckle-fronted Weaver (Sporopipes frontalis ) - SE, Nd, TA White-browed Sparrow-Weaver (Plocepasser mahali ) - EP Rufous-tailed Weaver (Histurgops ruficauda ) - SE, Nd, Ng, TA Gray-headed Social-Weaver (Pseudonigrita amaudi ) - LV, SE, Nd Red-headed Weaver (Anaplectes rubriceps ) - TA Baglafecht Weaver (Ploceus baglafecht ) - ANP, CR, GF, LM Slender-billed Weaver (Ploceus pelzelni ) - LV Spectacled Weaver (Ploceus ocularis ) - CR Taveta Golden-Weaver (Ploceus castaneiceps ) - NS Northern Brown-throated Weaver (Ploceus castanops ) - LV Lesser Masked-Weaver (Ploceus intermedius ) - SE, Nd Vitelline Masked-Weaver (Ploceus vitellinus ) - Nd, OG, LM Speke’s Weaver (Ploceus spekei ) - Ng Village Weaver (Ploceus cucullatus ) - LV, SE, Nd Black-headed (Yellow-backed) Weaver (Ploceus melanocephalus ) - LV (Jackson’s) Golden-backed Weaver (Ploceus jacksoni ) - LV, SE, LM Chestnut Weaver (Ploceus rubiginosus ) - TA Red-billed Quealea (Quelea quelea ) - ANP, Ng, TA Southern Red Bishop (Euplectes orix ) - Nd, Ng Black Bishop (Euplectes gierowii ) - LM Yellow Bishop (Euplectes capensis ) - ANP, Ng, LM Red-collared Widowbird (Euplectes ardens ) - CR Fan-tailed Widowbird (Euplectes axillaris ) - Ng, LM Jackson’s Widowbird (Euplectes jacksoni ) - CR Grosbeak (Thick-billed) Weaver (Amblyospiza albifrons ) - NS, GF, LM

WAXBILLS & ALLIES (Estrildidae):

Gray-headed Nigrita (Nigrita canicapillus ) - ANP, CR Crimson-rumped Waxbill (Estrilda rhodopyga ) - TA Black-faced Waxbill (Estrilda erythronotos ) - SE, Nd Red-cheeked Cordonbleu (Uraeginthus bengalus ) - SE, TA Blue-capped Cordonbleu (Uraeginthus cyanocephalus ) - LV, SE, Nd, LM, TA Purple Grenadier (Granatina ianthinogaster ) - ANP, SE, Ng Green-winged Pytilia (Pytilia melba ) - LV, TA Red-billed Firefinch (Lagonosticta senegala ) - NS, LM, TA African (Blue-billed) Firefinch (Lagonosticta rubricata ) - LV Cut-throat (Amadina fasciata ) - SE African Quailfinch (Ortygospiza fuscocrissa ) - SE Gray-headed Silverbill (Odontospiza griseicapilla ) - SE Bronze Mannikin (Spermestes cucullatus ) - NS, GF Black-and-white Mannikin (Spermestes bicolor ) - NS

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 50 Northern Tanzania, February 2018 INDIGOBIRDS (Viduidae):

Pin-tailed Whydah (Vidua macroura ) - LV, SE, TA Steel-blue Whydah (Vidua hypocherina ) - Nd Straw-tailed Whydah (Vidua fischeri ) - LM Village Indigobird (Vidua chalybeata ) - LM, TA

TOTAL = 455 species

MAMMALS:

Guereza Colobus (Colobus guereza ) - NS, ANP, SE Olive (Anubis) Baboon (Papio anubis ) - ANP, SE, LM, TA Vervet Monkey (Cercopithecus pygerythrus ) - ANP, SE, LM, TA Blue (Syke’s) Monkey (Cercopithecus mitis ) - NS, ANP, CR, LM Brown Greater Galago (Bushbaby) (Otolemur crassicaudatus )* - NS* Bat sp. - OG (These appeared to be another species of Lavia [not Yellow-winged], but I still haven’t confirmed their identity.) Epauletted Fruit Bat sp. (Epomophorus sp.) - TA Yellow-winged Bat (Lavia frons ) - LV, SE, TA Scrub Hare (Lepus saxatilis ) - Ng Unstriped Ground Squirrel (Xerus rutilus ) - TA Huet’s (Ochre) Bush Squirrel (Paraxerus ochraceus ) - TA Tree squirrel sp.? - NS Rat sp.? - SE Common Grass Mouse - SE, Nd, GF, LM Cheetah (Acinonyx jubatus ) - SE (families of 4 & 3); Nd (family of 3) Serval (Felis serval ) - Nd (1) Leopard (Panthera pardus ) - SE (2: The same female seen on consecutive days, but we only saw her half-grown cub on the first day.) Lion (Panthera leo ) - SE, Nd, Ng, TA (We saw a total of 88 Lions for the trip, with a high count of 32 in one day at Ng. Included in the total were 2 actively mating pairs, one at SE, and the other at Ng.) Spotted Hyaena (Crocuta crocuta ) - SE, TP, Nd, Ng Common (Golden) Jackal (Canis aureus ) - TP, Nd, Ng Black-backed Jackal (Canis mesomelas ) - Ng, TA (Far less conspicuous than usual. We rushed past 2 at Ng when we were hurrying to get to the Sopa Gate before it closed, and then didn’t see another until our last morning as we were leaving TA.) Bat-eared Fox (Octocyon megalotis ) - SE (Glimpsed by some in the lead vehicle.), Nd (2), Ng (6) African (Cape) Clawless Otter (Aonyx capensis ) - LV (1 seen by Jesse at Speke Bay.) Slender Mongoose (Herpestes sanguinea ) - CR Dwarf Mongoose (Helogale parvula ) - SE, LM, TA Banded Mongoose (Mungos mungo ) - ANP, SE, TA

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 51 Northern Tanzania, February 2018 Common (Small Spotted) Genet (Genetta genetta ) - Nd (The nightly entertainment in the lodge dining room!) Bush (Yellow-spotted) Hyrax (Heterohyrax brucei ) - SE (The point-snouted hyrax seen at the Visitor Center.), TA (These were all over at Sopa Lodge, scampering across the roofs and paths.) Black-necked Rock Hyrax (Procavia johnstoni ) - SE (The blunt-snouted hyrax seen at the Visitor Center.) African Elephant (Loxodonta africana ) - SE, Nd, Ng, LM, TA Common (Plains/Burchell’s) Zebra (Equus burchelli ) - ANP, SE, TP, Nd, Ng, LM, TA Black (Hook-lipped) Rhinoceros (Diceros bicornis ) - Ng (2) Hippopotamus (Hippopotamus amphibius ) - ANP, SE, Ng, LM Common Warthog (Phacochoerus africanus ) - ANP, SE, Nd, Ng, LM, TA “Maasai” Giraffe (Giraffa camelopardalis tippelskirchi ) - ANP, SE, Nd, LM, TA {Giraffe taxonomy is still unsettled. Until recently, all of them were considered to be a single species. More recent work has supported the elevation of several subspecies to full species status. All of the Giraffes that occur in northern Tanzania are of the “Maasai” subspecies/species.} Brindled Gnu (Blue Wildebeest) (Connochaetes taurinus ) - SE, TP, Nd, Ng, LM African (Cape) Buffalo (Syncerus caffer ) - ANP, SE, Ng, LM, TA Bushbuck (Tragelaphus scriptus ) - ANP, LM Eland (Taurotragus oryx ) - TP, Nd, Ng Kirk’s (Damara) Dikdik (Madoqua kirkii ) - ANP, SE, Nd, TA Harvey’s Duiker (Cephalophus harveyi ) - ANP Bohor Reedbuck (Redunca redunca ) - Nd, Ng, TA Defassa Waterbuck (Kobus ellipsipyrmnus ) - ANP, SE, Ng, LM, TA Grant’s Gazelle (Gazella granti ) - SE, TP, Nd, Ng Red-fronted (Thomson’s) Gazelle (Gazella rufifrons thomsonii ) - SE, TP, Nd, Ng Impala (Aepyceros melampus ) - SE, Nd, LM, TA Topi (Damaliscus lunatus ) - SE, TP Kongoni (Red Hartebeest) (Alcelaphus buselaphus ) - SE, TP

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 52 Northern Tanzania, February 2018

Maasai Giraffe family, Arusha NP, February 2018 (© Kevin J. Zimmer)

Total = 49+ species (pending the identification of a bat and some rodent species)

HERPS:

Leopard Tortoise (Geochelone pardalis ) - Nd, TA Unidentified turtle sp. - SE, TA Tropical House Gecko (Hemidactylus mabouia ) - Seen on the walls outside the rooms at various lodges, including NS, Nd, LM, TA. Striped Skink (Mabuya striata ) - SE (This was the one running around on the deck outside the dining room at Kubu Kubu.), Nd Variable Skink (Mabuya varia ) - SE, Nd, TA Blue-headed Tree Agama (Acanthocercus atricollis ) - TP (Seen along the road between Naabi Hills and Oldupai Gorge on the days that we drove to and from Ndutu.) Red-headed Rock Agama (Agama agama ) - LV, OG, TA Mwanza Flat-headed Agama (Agama mwanzae ) - SE Flap-necked Chameleon (Chamaeleo dilepsis) - SE, Nd Nile Monitor (Varanus niloticus ) - LV, SE, TA Nile Crocodile (Crocodylus niloticus ) - LV, SE Various unidentified tree frogs - Several spots.

Total = 12+ species

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 53 Northern Tanzania, February 2018

Mwanza Flat-headed Agama, Serengeti NP, February 2018 (© Kevin J. Zimmer)

Blue-headed Tree Agama, Triangle Plains, February 2018 (© Kevin J. Zimmer)

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 54 Northern Tanzania, February 2018