I r a n o n i t s d i p l o m at i c C at c h - 2 2 w i t h C a n a d a

July–August 2008

Digging Panama Ambassador Romy Vasquez on Panama’s legendary past and its spectacular future

Plus: Canadians join global rush to buy into Panama’s amazing boom

Aboard Canada’s destroyer HMCS Iroquois Greece’s ambassador on monastic retreats Special book excerpt: The Islamist death cult Established 1989 CDN $5.95

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July–August 2008

Digging Panama AMBASSADOR ROMY VASQUEZ ON PANAMA’S LEGENDARY PAST AND ITS SPECTACULAR FUTURE

PLUS: CANADIANS JOIN GLOBAL RUSH TO BUY INTO PANAMA’S AMAZING BOOM

Aboard Canada’s destroyer HMCS Iroquois Greece’s ambassador on monastic retreats Special book excerpt: The Islamist death cult ESTABLISHED 1989 CDN $5.95 The World in Canada PM 40957514

Volume 19, Number 2 PUBLISHER Neil Reynolds ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER Donna Jacobs EDITOR Table of Jennifer Campbell ART DIRECTOR Paul Cavanaugh ADVERTISING ADVISOR CONTENTS Cu Van Ha [email protected] 1-613-262-4908 or 1-416-600-4908 COPY EDITOR Roger Bird CONTRIBUTING EDITORS Daniel Drolet George Abraham CULTURE EDITOR Margo Roston CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Stephen Beckta Laura Neilson Bonikowsky Margaret Dickenson DIPLOMATICA| Tarek Fatah Verbatim: Excerpt from Chasing a Mirage by Tarek Fatah ...... 7 Patrick Lennox Nikolaos Matsis Diplomatic Agenda: Japan’s ambassador on the G8 Summit . . . 10 Romy Vasquez Good Deeds: Mexico’s sizzling ambassador ...... 12 CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS Questions Asked: Grilling Iran’s chargé d’affaires ...... 13 Tyler Anderson Ulle Baum Bob Diotte Ben Welland DISPATCHES| Dyanne Wilson The Switzerland of Central America George Wu Romy Vasquez on her globalized nation ...... 19 Business Management Jessie Reynolds Panama: A hotspot for retiring Canadians ...... 23 WEBMASTER Leslee McCabe Aboard the HMCS Iroquois and why the navy matters ...... 25 DIPLOPORTAL WEB PARTNERS www.diploportal.com Alastair Sweeny Richard Evers DELIGHTS| (Northern Blue Publishing) Books: Terrorism’s evil ways ...... 29 PUBLISHER EMERITUS Wine: Curry and Cabernet? ...... 31 Lezlee Cribb ADVERTISING INQUIRIES Homes: Israel’s oasis in Rockcliffe ...... 32 Contact Neil Reynolds or Donna Jacobs Canadiana: First to sail around the world alone ...... 35 [email protected] Entertaining: Garnishing is essential ...... 36 [email protected] SUBSCRIPTIONS Envoy’s album ...... 40 Diplomat & International Canada is published six times a year. Subscription rates: individual, one year $35.70. For Canadian orders add 5 per cent GST. U.S. orders please add $15 for postage. All DIGNITARIES| other orders please add $25. SUBMISSIONS New arrivals in the diplomatic corps ...... 38 Diplomat & International Canada welcomes submissions. Contact Jennifer Campbell, editor, at [email protected] or (613) 231-8476. DIPLOMATIC MISSIONS ...... 42 DIPLOMAT & INTERNATIONAL CANADA P.O Box 1173, Station B Ottawa, Ontario Canada K1P 5R2 DESTINATIONS| Phone: (613) 259-3038 Greece’s charms for those who seek peace ...... 47 Fax: (613) 259-5481 E-mail: [email protected] www.diplomatonline.com ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. The publisher assumes no responsibility for unsolicited material. No part of this magazine may be reproduced in any form without written permission from the Published by publisher. The views expressed in the articles are those of the authors. © 2007 ISSN 1190-8343 Sparrow House Publication Mail # 40957514. Return undeliverable Canadian copies to: Diplomat Magazine, Enterprises Inc. P.O. Box 1173, Station B, Ottawa, ON K1P 5R2 DIPLOMATICA|EDITOR’S NOTE

A panoply of opportunities some point this spring, plans afoot for a Cana- CONTRIBUTORS anama has come of age. It’s now a dian delegation of MPs Romy Vasquez, author of “Panama was country with as much going for it as to visit Iran. born globalized” Pthere are vessels cruising through Be sure to check out its renowned waterway. These days, after page seven where we decades of dictatorships, it’s hailed as the run a fascinating ex-

Switzerland of Central America – a coun- jennifer campbell cerpt from Tarek Fa- try of endless opportunity. tah’s book, Chasing a In her cover essay, Romy Vasquez, the Mirage: The Tragic Illusion of an Islamic irrepressible Panamanian ambassador, State. Mr. Fatah talks about how the U.S. points out this fact and more on her coun- “tapped into this vast reservoir of brain- try’s history, culture, economic successes washed jihadis” when it fought its war and promising future. against communism in the Muslim world. Romy Vasquez has more than 20 years Panama is also a place retiring Canadi- He also tells the story of a 17-year-old experience working with Panama’s for- ans are starting to consider. As Diplomat girl who was shot and refused medical eign service and considerable business publisher Neil Reynolds points out in a attention because martyrdom felt good. experience. She managed a high-end story on that subject, Panama has big ex- And, he tells how he found a booklet at leather accessories business in Mexico pat communities – because Panama City is a Toronto book festival which encour- City from 1995 to 2004, before becoming as modern a city as you’ll find; health care aged Muslims toward jihad stating “jihad Panama’s ambassador to Canada. Since is top notch; the weather’s great; and the is as much a primary duty as are daily arriving here, Ms. Vasquez has enjoyed country has a relatively low cost of living. prayers and fasting. One who avoids it is a numerous successes including attracting In addition, it welcomes foreign investors sinner." two engineering firms to Panama, ini- with more than mere open arms. If you Books columnist George Abraham also tiating free trade discussions with Can- buy a new house, you won’t pay property looks at terrorism. His book selections ada, and signing an air agreement. Ms. tax for 20 years. Prove you’re a pensioner speak to where it comes from, what ter- Vasquez has a bachelor of science from and the discounts flood in – airfares, res- rorists mean by victory and how ordinary Georgetown University in Washington, taurant meals, prescription drugs, hotel people turn to it as a goal in life. D.C. The polyglot (she speaks Spanish, rooms. And better yet, no income made Wine columnist Stephen Beckta writes English, French, Portuguese and Italian) outside the country is taxed – although about pairing wines with foods that have also has a master’s in business admin- Canadians are taxed on the income in more traditionally been enjoyed with beer istration from the Instituto Tecnológico their home and native land. (think curries and burritos). Culture editor Autonomo de México in México City. For a subject that brings us back to Margo Roston gets a look inside the home Canada, Patrick Lennox, a scholar from of Israeli Ambassador Alan Baker and his Patrick Lennox, author of “Relentless in the University of Calgary, offers his expe- wife, Dalia, just before they head back to Chase” rience aboard HMCS Iroquois, patrolling in Israel after a four-year posting. In Cana- the Arabian Sea as part of Canada’s efforts diana, Laura Neilson Bonikowsky shares to fight terrorism. Dr. Lennox spent two the story of Joshua Slocum, a Nova Scotia- weeks on board and offers his opinions on born adventurer and master mariner who, why the Canadian Navy is vital and must in 1898, was the first to sail alone around be adequately funded. the world. In our section on entertaining, Up front, we have an interview with columnist Margaret Dickenson shares her Iranian chargé d’affaires Seyid Mahdi Mo- tips on creatively garnishing your plates. hebi. Diplomat associate publisher Donna Greek Ambassador Nikolaos Matsis Jacobs sat down with him several times shares his travel tips for his homeland. Patrick Lennox is J.L. Granatstein Post- and asked tough questions. While what His favourite spots are Mount Athos and doctoral Fellow at the Centre for Mili- appears is a reflection of how few subjects Rhodes, although Athens makes an ap- tary and Strategic Studies, University of his regime will let him discuss, we do pearance on his list. Calgary. He holds a doctorate in political learn that despite a diplomatic impasse science from the University of Toronto, between Iran and Canada, there were, at Jennifer Campbell is Diplomat’s editor. and although he received no formal training for his first extended voyage at sea, the crew of Iroquois provided all the UP FRONT necessary guidance and instruction with Photographer Ben Welland spent hours with patience and professionalism. He will Panamanian Ambassador Romy Vasquez to get the rejoin them in August in the Arabian Sea shot on our cover. When he took her to the Rideau to continue his research on the Canadian Canal, he was surprised to learn she’d never been, Navy’s contribution to the global war on given the importance of the Panama Canal. And, terror. The Security and Defence Forum he was impressed by her diplomatic skills. “She’s in conjunction with the Canadian Navy really good at selling her country,” he said. “I’m into gave him the opportunity to become birding and she talked about the toucans on her bal- embedded with Iroquois this spring. cony last time she was there. Now I want to go.” “Relentless in Chase” is Iroquois’ motto.

 july—august 2008 VERBATIM|DIPLOMATICA

‘Islamist jihad has evolved into a death cult’ THE WORLD ACCORDING ournalist Tarek Fatah is host of the weekly TV show The TO: JMuslim Chronicle and a fre- The W orld According to: quent contributor to the Toronto Tarek Fatah in his new book Star, the Globe and Mail and Chasing a Mirage: The the National Post. A lifelong Tragic Illusion of an Islamic critic of Islamic extremism, the Pakistan-born writer has State earned the ire of Islamists. After 9/11, in opposition to extremism, he founded the Muslim Canadian Congress, an organization dedicated to separation of religion and state and to gender equality for Muslims. For his work and perseverance as a writer and broadcaster – despite intimi- dation and numerous death threats – the National Press Club of Canada awarded Mr. Fatah the 2007 Press Freedom Award. He lives with his wife and daughters in Toronto’s Cabbagetown.

By Tarek Fatah

believe the agenda of the Islamists is not to spread the message of peace Iand justice on Earth with people sub- mitting to the Creator. For these people who treat Islam as a brand name, not a religion, it seems their motivation is t os one of revenge, or an outburst on seeing p themselves as unable to compete in or ional t a contribute to a globalized world. For oth- N ers it is a continuation of a response to the Crusades. It appears the defeat of Richard the Lion-Hearted was not enough. They Tyler anderson, would like to see both Muslim and non- Muslim collectively submit to their fascist Tarek Fatah, Pakistani-born author and critic of Islamic extremists, received the 2007 Press Freedom Award ideology of hate and supremacy where for his work. instead of life, death is to be celebrated. The doctrine of armed jihad against the and women. eye-opening thoughts on jihad. Usmani is non-Muslim “enemy” would take on a While many Islamists in the West are a regular visitor to Britain, where in 2007 more robust and political form in the early careful about what they say to the media, he declared in a London Times interview 20th-century interpretations among such Islamists from the Muslim world are not that Muslims should wage military jihad Islamist scholars: Hassan al Banna, Abul so guarded. Justice Muhammad Taqi “to establish the supremacy of Islam” Ala Maudoodi and Syed Qutb. These men Usmani is a sharia judge in Pakistan’s worldwide. have laid the foundation of a new form of Supreme Court and one of the world’s He told the newspaper that Muslims jihad, patterned on the tradition of the un- most respected Islamic scholars from the should live peacefully in countries such derground communist parties of Europe Deobandi Sunni school. This is the sect of as Britain, where they have the freedom and at times resembling the anarchists of Islam that dominates the Taliban and has a to practise Islam, but only until they gain the 19th century. Today, it has evolved into presence in most Indo-Pakistani mosques enough power to engage in battle. He a form of a death cult, where the highest in Britain and Canada. Though not di- told the prestigious Times: “The question level of Islamic worship is to die and leave rectly linked to the Saudi Wahhabi strain is whether aggressive battle is by itself this world to its “satanic existence.” This of Islam, the Deobandi school has his- commendable or not. If it is, why should blending of the death cult and jihad has torical links with the Saudis. The learned the Muslims stop simply because territo- translated into the martyrdom sought by judge, who advises many multinational rial expansion in these days is regarded so many brainwashed young Muslim men companies on halal investments, has some as bad? And if it is not commendable, but

diplomat and international canada  DIPLOMATICA|VERBATIM

deplorable, why did Islam not stop it in Nasmeen, seventeen, was shot in the side. the past?” When she went to help her, Nasmeen He then proceeded to answer his own pushed her away, saying: “It feels good, question: “Even in those days . . . aggres- it’s martyrdom.” sive jihads were waged . . . because it was It makes one wonder what would make truly commendable for establishing the a seventeen-year-old girl, wounded in grandeur of the religion of Allah.” battle, deny help simply because “it feels The United States did not hesitate to good to be martyred.” This bizarre behav- tap into this vast reservoir of brainwashed iour has no precedent in the Quran or the jihadis. In fact, the United States would Prophet’s teaching. It is the result of the finance the jihadis, using them to fight its unchallenged death cult being taught to global war on communism. For decades young Muslim girls and boys in private the United States had clandestinely helped Islamic schools throughout the world— jihadi groups quash pro-communist and teachings which, in the words of Hassan nationalist Muslims inside the Muslim al-Banna, claim that “jihad is obligatory world. By the end of the 1970s, this covert on every Muslim.” And that martyrdom practice was more visible, and the United in the name of Allah is better than life on States had become a covert supporter of Earth. international jihad. Islamists are no longer restricting their Perhaps the clearest example of US activities to the mosques or Islamic cen- endorsement of jihad came in the January In case the reader is left tres. In October 2007 they even set up a 1980 photo-op showing President [Jimmy] stand at Toronto’s annual “Word on the Carter’s national security adviser, Zbig- with any doubt about Street” book festival, which was staged niew Brzezinski, standing at the historic on the leafy lawns of Queen’s Park, home the meaning of the word Khyber Pass that marks the border be- of Ontario’s legislative building. At this tween Pakistan and Afghanistan. Pointing “jihad,” Abul Ali Maudoodi event, another US-based Islamist organiza- a rifle at Kabul, Brzezinski declared: “We tion, the Islamic Circle of North America know of their deep belief in God and we clarifies: “In the language (ICNA), distributed a free booklet titled are confident that their struggle will suc- of the Divine Law, this word Towards Understanding Islam, written by ceed. Your fight will prevail because your Abul Ala Maudoodi, the founder of the cause is right and God is on your side.” [jihad] is used specifically radical Jamaat-e-Islami, and the intellec- Standing alongside Brzezinski were tual guru of Islamists and jihadis around Pakistani military officials, CIA operatives, for the war that is waged the world. and the much-loved mujahideen (Muslim solely in the name of In the booklet, Maudoodi exhorts ordi- guerrilla fighters) of the time. Brzezinski nary Muslims to launch jihad, as in armed urged the warriors to go forth and commit God against those who struggle, against non-Muslims. “Jihad is jihad. As the turbaned men who would part of this overall defence of Islam,” he perpetrate oppression later metamorphose into the now-hated writes. In case the reader is left with any Taliban cheered, Brzezinski, resplendent in as enemies of Islam. This doubt about the meaning of the word “ji- a traditional Afghan woollen cap, basked had,” Maudoodi clarifies: “In the language in their adoration. The Americans had fi- supreme sacrifice is the of the Divine Law, this word [jihad] is nally found the dupes who were willing to used specifically for the war that is waged responsibility of die serving US imperial interests. solely in the name of God against those Thus began the ten-year CIA-sponsored all Muslims.” who perpetrate oppression as enemies of jihad against the Soviets, which one CIA Islam. This supreme sacrifice is the respon- officer said was “a war that was fought sibility of all Muslims.” with our gold, but with their blood.” It death more than life. Jihadis have not been Maudoodi goes on to label Muslims was a US-sponsored jihad; even the text- the first to die for their cause, but their who refuse the call to armed jihad as apos- books for the jihadi madrassahs came passion for death far exceeds that of the tates: “Jihad is as much a primary duty from the United States. In these books, kamikaze pilots or the Tamil Tiger suicide as are daily prayers or fasting. One who the alphabet consisted of jeem for “jihad,” bombers. avoids it is a sinner. His every claim to be- kaaf for “Kalashnikov,” and tay for “tope” An example of this death cult was ing a Muslim is doubtful. He is plainly a (cannon). It’s this sponsorship of jihadi reported in the The Sunday Times cover- hypocrite who fails in the test of sincerity doctrine that has come back to haunt the age of the Pakistani military action that and all his acts of worship are a sham, a United States. The same jihadi doctrine ended the Islamabad Red Mosque siege worthless, hollow show of deception.” of the Muslim Brotherhood that made the in the summer of 2007. On July 15, a few Two thoughts troubled me as I read the Taliban and Al-Qaeda allies of the United days after the fighting had died down, the above passage. First, why was a Canadian States during the Cold War has now be- newspaper interviewed a fifteen-year-old Muslim organization distributing this call come the genie that cannot be put back girl who had witnessed the fighting. Asma to arms against Canada at a book festival? into the bottle. Hayat said that she was handing out wa- Second, I wondered, if such hateful and Few non-Muslims can understand the ter to children affected by tear gas near the inflammatory literature was being distrib- psychology of the person who wishes main gate of the mosque when her friend uted openly in downtown Toronto, what

 july—august 2008 DIPLOMATICA|VERBATIM

was being said in the confines of private would be naive to assume that a call gatherings and the new mini-mosques that is raised to free the whole of human- have sprouted across all major metropo- kind throughout earth, and it is con- lises in the West? It is clear that jihadi ex- fined to preaching and exposition. tremists are taking advantage of Canada’s liberal democracy to spread their fascist Qutb is blunt about his expectations of ideology, while the liberal-left custodians Muslims living in the West. He writes: of fair play and equity are being taken to the cleaners. Taunting peaceful Muslims A Muslim has no country except to commit jihad against Canada should that part of the earth where Shariah certainly deserve a challenge, but few are of God is established and human willing to speak up. relationships are based on the foun- The problem is compounded when dation of relationship with God; a many of the Western writers and academ- Muslim has no nationality except his ics with a sound knowledge of Islamic belief, which makes him a member politics treat the subject matter with kid of the Muslim community in Dar- gloves, instead of stating the facts about ul-Islam; a Muslim has no relatives the dangers of spreading the doctrine of From India to Indonesia except those who share the belief in jihad among Muslim youth followers of God. . . . A Muslim has no relation- Qutb and Maudoodi. and Morocco to Malaysia, ship with his mother, father, brother, Take the example of John Esposito, a the Muslim Brotherhood wife and other family members ex- professor of religion and international cept through their relationship with affairs at Georgetown University. In dis- ideology of jihad and the Creator, and then they are also cussing jihad, it seems he goes out of his joined through blood. way to not offend the Islamists, appear- Islamic supremacy is being ing to gloss over the threats they pose, if challenged by fellow He goes on to urge Muslims living in not apologizing for them. In mid-2007, non-Muslim countries to work towards in a piece for The Washington Post titled Muslims. However, in domination of their religion: “Indeed, “Want to Understand Islam? Start Here,” there is no Islam in a land where Islam is Canada, the United States, he wrote: not dominant.” and the West, it seems the From India to Indonesia and Morocco Muslims also argue over what to Malaysia, the Muslim Brotherhood some refer to as Islam’s sixth pillar, Muslim Brotherhood and ideology of jihad and Islamic supremacy jihad. In the Koran, Islam’s sacred is being challenged by fellow Muslims. its Pakistani wing, the text, jihad means “to strive or strug- However, in Canada, the United States, gle” to realize God’s will, to lead a Jamaat-e-Islami of Abul Ala and the West, it seems the Muslim Broth- virtuous life, to create a just society erhood and its Pakistani wing, the Jamaat- and to defend Islam and the Muslim Maudoodi, dominate the e-Islami of Abul Ala Maudoodi, dominate community. But historically, Muslim Muslim narrative. the Muslim narrative. rulers, backed by religious scholars, The few voices that do stand up to used the term to legitimize holy wars the open exhibition of jihadi ideology in to expand their empires. Contem- to explicitly denounce the application of Canada and the United States face seri- porary extremists—most notably jihad as a political tool. He did not. ous obstacles. For example, two Muslim Osama bin Laden— also appeal to Not only did the late Hassan al-Banna experts who were hired by the US TV net- Islam to bless their attacks. My book make it seem obligatory for all Muslims to work PBS to advise it on a series on Islam Unholy War: Terror in the Name of conduct jihad, but he was quite clear that ensured that Canadian filmmaker Martyn Islam tackles this theme. “jihad” meant armed conflict. He mocked Burke’s documentary Islam vs. Islamists the concept of the lesser and greater jihad, was excluded. It was later widely reported John Esposito knows very well that the suggesting that this theory is a conspiracy that the two knew the very Islamist groups problem is not simply Osama bin Laden, so that “Muslims should become neg- that were the subject of the documentary but that it lies in the doctrine of jihad as ligent.” Syed Qutb, another Egyptian investigation. It took months of lobbying espoused by such 20th-century Islamists stalwart of the Islamist movement and the by the producer, including a viewing for as Hassan al-Banna and Abul Ala Mau- Muslim Brotherhood, wrote in his classic members of the US Congress, to compel doodi, who have a large following among book Milestones: PBS to lift what amounted to a covert ban. American Muslim organizations and their leaders. He could have asked Muslims to Can anyone say that [if] Abu Excerpted from Chasing a Mirage by distance themselves from these two pur- Bakr, Umar or Othman had been Tarek Fatah. Copyright 2008. Excerpted veyors of Islamic extremism, but instead satisfied that the Roman and Persian with permission of the publisher John chose to gloss over the subject, trivializing powers were not going to attack the Wiley & Sons, Inc. This book is available at the real danger this ideology poses to sec- Arabian peninsula, they would not all bookstores, online booksellers and from ular civic society. Instead of promoting his have strived to spread the message the Wiley web site at www.wiley.ca, or call book, Esposito could have used the space of Islam throughout the world? . . . It 1-800-567-4797.

diplomat and international canada  DIPLOMATICA|diplomatic agenda

Japan presents ‘Cool Earth 50’ initiative to G8

Japan will strongly Japan recognizes that a 50 per cent suneo FIRST NAME: T promote this pro- reduction in emissions will require new, gram. innovative environmental technologies. At NAME: Nishida LAST Japan will en- the summit, this country will invite its G8 CITIZENSHIP: Japanese c o u r a g e i t s G 8 partners to join in co-operative efforts to AS partners to support establish roadmaps leading to this crucial PRESENTED CREDENTIALS April 10, 2007 discussions within technological development. ambassador: the United Nations The second theme for this year’s sum-

PREVIOUS POSTINGS: aimed at creating mit is related to development and Africa. Union, Former Soviet an emission-reduc- This year represents the mid-point of the Los Angeles tion framework timeframe set out at the United Nations Washington, for the post-Kyoto Millennium Summit in 2000 to achieve era that will com- eight Millennium Development Goals in mence after 2012. the world’s least developed countries. Toward that end, it The summit will provide an opportunity will strongly advocate a sector-based to review the status of this commitment, feel fortunate indeed to be serving approach toward emissions control – in specifically as it relates to Africa. Fur- in Ottawa during this very special short, a bottom-up approach to set feasible ther, Prime Minister Fukuda has already Iyear. In 2008, Canada and Japan mark and equitable emission targets based on expressed his intention to emphasize, the 80th anniversary of formal diplo- best technology and practices applied to from a perspective of human security, the matic relations between our two nations. each industrial sector. The potential utility fulfillment of those goals as they relate to Events this year in both countries will of this kind of approach was acknowl- the provision of health care, the manage- celebrate a partnership that has at its roots edged by G8 environment ministers dur- ment of water resources, and the universal a rock-solid, mutually beneficial economic ing their meeting May 24-26 in Kobe. availability of educational opportunities. foundation and is constantly evolving on Japan will stress the need for interna- The leaders will also be in a position to the basis of shared beliefs in freedom, democracy, respect for human rights and the rule of law, and international multi- lateralism. From a more global perspective, this year is also special because Japan enjoys the privilege of holding the G8 presidency. As such, we have been honoured to play host to our closest friends and allies, in- cluding Canada, at a series of high-level gatherings throughout the first half of the year. No fewer than nine major meetings of senior G8 ministers have taken place throughout Japan leading up to the July 7-9 Leaders’ Summit to be held in Toyako, on the northern island of Hokkaido. This year’s summit will have four prin- cipal themes. The first is the environment and climate an-guide.com change. At the 2007 Heiligendamn Sum- p mit in Germany, leaders agreed to “seri- ja ously consider” Japan’s “Cool Earth 50” This year’s G8 Leaders’ Summit takes place in Toyako, on the northern island of Hokkaido. Lake Toya is pictured here. initiative – the pursuit of a minimum 50 per cent decrease in then-current global greenhouse gas emissions by 2050. Build- tional co-operation in providing devel- build upon progress made at the fourth ing on the momentum created by this oping countries with the financial and Tokyo International Conference on African commitment, Prime Minister Yasuo Fu- technological support necessary for sus- Development held May 28-30 in Yoko- kuda announced the details of his “Cool tainable development. It will encourage hama. At that meeting, Japan, together Earth Promotion Program” at the annual its G8 partners to establish and support with its co-hosts the UN, UNDP and meeting of the World Economic Forum targeted multilateral funds created for this World Bank, discussed with African lead- in January. As host of this year’s Summit, purpose. ers how the knowledge and resources of

10 july—august 2008 diplomatic agenda|DIPLOMATICA

the international community could be mo- bilized to boost economic growth, enhance human security and address environmen- tal and climate-change issues. se The world economy represents a third ou r H no 0 summit theme. A degree of uncertainty a ,00 e M 0 currently hangs over the international on ,00 St $6 economy, uncertainty that is exacerbated by rising energy prices and the sub-prime issue. The leaders will address these con- cerns and discuss other subjects such as Marilyn Wilson sustainable growth, investment, trade, the Sales Representative 165 Pretoria Avenue, protection of intellectual property rights, Ottawa, Canada K1S 1X1 emerging economies and natural re- [email protected] sources. The leaders will also address food shortages: The Food Crisis Summit hosted by the FAO in June, along with WTO dis- cussions, showed the need for immediate and longer-term solutions to this problem. Finally, the leaders will discuss political matters of mutual interest and concern. One topic will undoubtedly involve the strengthening of the international non- proliferation regime. Serious concerns with potential nuclear ramifications on the Korean peninsula and in Iran underscore the need to maintain extreme vigilance over the production and proliferation of weapons of mass destruction and their delivery systems. Co-operative efforts to maintain and advance the international fight against ter- rorism will also figure prominently at the summit. As always, the annual gathering will also afford leaders an opportunity to discuss significant regional matters and other urgent issues of the day. In addition to providing an opportunity for multilateral exchange at the highest level, the Toyako Summit will also let G8 leaders meet individually to discuss matters of mutual and bilateral interest. I am sure that Prime Minister Yasuo Fu- kuda and Prime Minister Stephen Harper will discuss the potential to expand and deepen the Japan-Canada partnership OfferingExclusive and friendship. Perhaps they will even - have the opportunity to share a moment Rates For Diplomats to reflect on this year’s very special 80th anniversary. At Accu-Rate Corporation our For your personal team of highly experienced currency consultation please call: EDITOR’S NOTE: Each issue of Diplomat traders and foreign banking partners Marie Boivin provides space for a head of mission to Can- allow us to negotiate currency prices Managing Director ada to provide an official government view lower than any other currency dealer 613-596-5505 ext. 101 on issues and events in his or her country. or commercial institution. [email protected] Diplomatic Agenda items are unfiltered by journalists. They receive standard editing for style, length and ease of reading but the ideas Accu-Rate Corporation World Exchange Plaza stand unaltered. Accu-Rate Corporation 2573 Carling Ave. 111 Albert St. Foreign Exchange & International Payment Services Tsuneo Nishida is Japan's ambassador to www.accu-rate.ca (613) 596-5505 (613) 238-8454 Canada.

diplomat and international canada 11 DIPLOMATICA|GOOD DEEDS

This ambassador sizzles – and sautées

hen it comes to giving back to the community of Ottawa, W Mexican Ambassador Emilio Rafael Jose Goicoechea rolls up his sleeves – and dons an apron. For the most part, his embassy makes donations to the community in the form of dinners at the official residence. The dinners are usually auctioned off as fundraisers and can yield upwards of $10,000 for the specified charity. But Mr. Goicoechea doesn’t just play host at these events – he also cooks. The residence has an official chef, as many missions do, but on these charity- related occasions, he serves as sous-chef. The ambassador, who acts as guest chef, prepares the dishes and shows his chef

how to make them. Then, the chef pro- yanne Wilson D duces enough for the guests. “I work alongside the chef,” Mr. Mexican Ambassador Emilio Goicoechea, right, takes his charity events seriously. If the embassy auctions Goicoechea said. “It’s not my kitchen so off a dinner and it raises more than $5,000, the ambassador himself will cook the meal. I’m like an invited chef. I tell him what to prepare and I do the first plate, along with the presentation.” The deal he offers to the charities is that if the bid for a dinner for 10 people exceeds $5,000, he’ll do the cooking. So far in Ottawa, the ambassador has cooked for a few dinners including Music to Dine For (a National Arts Centre fundraiser for educational programming), Big Brothers, Big Sisters and Opera Lyra. He also plans to cook for the Ottawa Humane Society since the bid hit $6,000. He’s told that Laureen Harper, wife of Prime Minister Stephen Harper, will likely attend. “So I’ll spend a full day cooking for that one,” he says. Mr. Goicoechea has always enjoyed cooking. His base, he says, is French and he prefers to do nouvelle cuisine. yanne Wilson “I use Mexican ingredients with a D French base. It’s tradition with a twist,” The table is set for a charity dinner. he said, and added that he’s borrowed inspiration from the recipes of his mother and his grandmother. The Mexican embassy is as active as it the best 10 to 15 during the year and for ing his residence to Canadians. Ideally, can be in charity and community work, those, we provide a dinner.” he’d like to share his home by offering he said. But like all missions, it has a bud- The ambassador said the embassy has guided tours any time but his officials get to consider. a study group to examine the charities are concerned about security. Still, he “But we try to manage and try to par- that come to them seeking support and planned to start the program with a bang ticipate in the institutions that we believe then picks the best or most suitable for by opening the home up to Canadians on we should support. We receive probably the embassy’s goals in Canada. Canada Day. 50 or more requests per year and it’s hard Another of his interests – and this one “We’ll open the residence and invite to please everyone so we try to select is more community outreach – is in open- people for free,” he said.

12 july—august 2008 QUESTIONS Asked|DIPLOMATICA

Iran cites Canadian ‘signs and signals’ that it wants normal diplomatic relations

Seyid Mahdi Mohebi is the chargé d’affaires efits, take all the advantages. The other side of the Islamic Republic of Iran’s Ottawa will receive nothing. embassy. Canada and Iran have traveled a rocky diplomatic road since the Islamic DM: Who’s getting all the benefits now? Revolution of 1978. That road hit an Who’s getting none? impasse in 2003. Iranian-born Canadian SMM: If a relationship is based on $1 billion a photojournalist Zahra Kazemi was year in exchange of goods, it must be in bal- arrested in June 2003 while taking ance. If I get $200 million and you get $800 pictures of a protest by families of million, we don’t have a balance. [According dissidents being held at Tehran’s Evin to 2007 Canadian government figures (www. Prison. Comatose after severe torture, international.gc.ca), Canadian exports to Iran she died and was quickly buried by totaled $268.3 million while Canadian im- Iranian authorities who initially denied ports from Iran totaled $44.7 million.] she had been murdered. Today, Iran’s official Rockcliffe Park residence in DM: Do you have specific examples? Ottawa, with its turquoise mosaic foun- SMM: We cannot specifically point. We can- tain and its fabulous Oriental rugs, sits not criticize. We cannot judge. We cannot empty. Iran’s last ambassador, Mohammad say that this is good, this is bad. There is no Ali Mousavi, left in 2004. Canada has not relation at the moment. approved the two men Iran has proposed as his replacement. In retaliation, last December, DM: You are limited to certain topics in deal- Iran expelled John Mundy, Canada’s ambas- ing with the Canadian government. What sador in Tehran. Recently, Iran began a new are these limits? investigation into Ms. Kazemi’s murder. Mr. SMM: Until we’ve reached a certain level [in Mohebi has, in the past, stated his regret over our relationship with Canada], we cannot her death as a “bitter reality” which is “for judge it. We cannot [now] have any discus- us unacceptable.” He recently agreed to an sion. We cannot start pointing out things. interview – putting any discussion of terror- This is not a positive [sign], not promis- ism, Iran’s nuclear facilities or Israel off limits. ing for a diplomatic relationship. He sat down in the sunroom of the official residence with Diplomat’s associate publisher DM: What are the subjects that Canada will Donna Jacobs. allow you to discuss? The CBC has identi- fied three – human rights, Iran’s nuclear en- DIPLOMAT: How would you describe Cana- ergy, Zahra Kazemi. You can discuss these da’s relationship now with Iran? subjects? [Canada had also listed a fourth SEYID MAHDI MOHEBI: It’s important for us allowable topic – Iran’s role in the Middle to maintain relations – economic, cultural, East region.] political – between Iran and Canada, and SMM: We have passed beyond these topics. to upgrade this relationship because, No. 1, we have so many Iranian nationals here. We DM: You can talk to the Canadian govern- definitely have to put that fact at the top of ment about these subjects? our agenda. SMM: Yes. If we wish and they wish, yes.

DM: How many Iranians are there in Can- DM: What does this mean? Does it mean ada? that Canada will not talk to you about any SMM: Approximately 350,000. We are trying other subjects? to keep the relationship with Canada bal- SMM: It is really up to Canada. We are ready anced. We are trying to do it bilaterally, fair to talk on any bilateral basis at any time. for both countries. Canada has discussed these topics inside our bilateral arrangement. It’s important to DM: Please give us a specific example of remember that these three topics are Cana- what you mean by balance. da’s priority. SMM: To strengthen relations, we need bilat- eral understanding, mutual understanding. DM: When was the last time you had dis- When the relationship is not strong enough, cussions with Canada about these permit-

yanne Wilson one side will unfortunately take all the ben- ted subjects? D

diplomat and international canada 13 QUESTIONS Asked|DIPLOMATICA

SMM: Never. These topics are their topics. [“A Canadian parliamentary group from DM: What do you want from Canada? A the three parties, Liberal, Conservative and full diplomatic relationship? DM: I don’t understand. Some of these top- Bloc Quebecois is planning to make a trip SMM: Iran is looking for a normal, de- ics relate to things that happened in 2003. to Iran this month. According to the Fararu cent relation with all the countries in the It’s five years later. What’s the impasse? reporter from Ottawa, this group is accom- world. But we have to remember that Iran SMM: This is a question you will have to panied by Mr. Derek Lee from the Liberal is looking, as well, to make Iran better, to address to Foreign Affairs. party. An official from the Canadian For- obtain benefits. And that’s the main goal. eign affairs told our reporter that this trip Canada is a big industrial country. It has DM: You say that you have gone beyond was intended to reorganize the relationship power. It has influence. It has roles in the these topics – yet you still haven’t talked between the two countries of Canada and world. Together, we can have a relation- with Canada. What do you mean by that? Iran. The Canadian Parliamentary commit- ship. That’s what we seek. SMM: We have noticed signs and signals tee is planned to meet some of the Iran’s from Foreign Affairs which indicate that members of Parliament as well as other po- DM: That’s very general. Can you be more Foreign Affairs is ready to talk to us beyond litical figures in Iran.” specific? these three topics. They show us their readi- [On April 12, the state-controlled Teh- SMM: Iran is powerful country and it has ness. ran Times ran a story headlined “Canadian an important role in the region and in the MPs to visit Iran.” It quoted Majlis Na- world. As does Canada. Together, that’s an DM: Does this have something to do with a tional Security and Foreign Policy Com- absolutely excellent combination – Iran and possible visit to Iran by a contingent of Ca- mittee Chairman Aleaddin Borujerdi.as Canada. Together, they can make for the nadian Members of Parliament? saying the trip was “unofficial and non- betterment of the whole world. SMM: It’s all related. parliamentary.” [Since then, Diplomat has learned that DM: In the last six months, Canada has op- DM: Could this visit happen soon? the trip has been cancelled. Derek Lee, MP posed Iran directly in resolutions in the SMM: The Canadian government has an- for Scarborough-Rouge River, the unofficial United Nations General Assembly. [Yearly nounced its readiness. We acknowledge head of the unofficial delegation on the un- Canada has successfully sponsored a reso- that. And it could be soon. official trip, did not return Diplomat’s phone lution condemning Iran’s “ongoing system- calls or e-mails; DFAIT has refused com- atic violations of human rights.”] Canada DM: How many MPs will be going? Will all ment.] votes for the ongoing trade embargo in the parties be represented? strategic materials on Iran because of its nu- SMM: We don’t know yet but they told us DM: Regarding the three permitted sub- clear program. In the UN context, Canada that they will inform us how many [MPs] jects, what does the Canadian government is actively working against Iran. Is this an and which parties. We are waiting for con- want from you, from Iran? embarrassment? A point of pressure? firmation. SMM: They haven’t confirmed that with us. SMM: As you are aware, after Zahra Ka- We don’t know. You can ask the govern- zemi, the human rights issue towards Iran DM: Is this your idea or Canada’s idea? ment of Canada what they want. has been a subject [important] to Canada. SMM: Canada’s idea. So we’ve had four resolutions that Canada DM: How do you know that you will be has suggested to the UN which passed. The DM: Whom do the MPs want to speak with permitted to speak only about these three last one was Dec. 18, 2007. On the other in Iran? With Iranian President Mahmoud subjects if you haven’t yet held discus- hand, we are looking at Canada from the Ahmadinejad? sions? perspective of human rights towards the SMM: We don’t know. We haven’t received SMM: It’s been announced the newspapers, minorities in Canada – for example, the Ab- the MPs proposed agenda. We are defi- in the media. originals. We can advance the same discus- nitely sure that they will have discussions sion with Canada that Canada advanced in with MPs. The Iranian embassy [in Ot- DM: But not directly to you? the UN. We can have the same argument. tawa] and the Iranian government have an- SMM: Not directly. As soon as the diplo- But we’re trying not to go down that path. nounced their readiness to help them with matic relationship between Canada and We don’t want to have this discussion of this trip. Iran comes back to normal, we can sit ‘you did that, we did that.’ down and discuss. [But] it is impossible DM: When will this happen? to talk only about three topics. It’s a pack- DM: Please describe your response to Cana- SMM: Discussions began six months ago. age. There are other subjects. The thing is da’s active role against Iran at the UN. Our last communication with them was at that these topics have been talked over and SMM: Iran has had 30 years since the revolu- the beginning of May. It’s still in the pro- over, through the media, many times. If we tion. From the very beginning, and through cess but we have no agenda or names of [all] want to sit down and talk, we should all these 30 years, from European countries MPs or dates. sit down and talk about all the issues. or other parts of the world, we have been un- der attack. We have had enemies, lived un- [Editor’s Note: MPs apparently planned DM: What can you offer to Canada as an der pressure. We had that. We know that. It’s to visit Iran with no media coverage. Teh- inducement to normal diplomatic discus- a little example of how the nation of Iran has ran had other ideas. Headlined “A trip by sions? made progress during these 30 years. Iran a Canadian parliamentary group to Iran SMM: We have suggested that diplomats has turned into a great country. Just compare for the purpose of re-opening Iran-Canada should sit down and talk – look closely into for a moment what Iran was before to what relations,” www.fararu.com ran an Apr. 6 details, focus on details. We want that. We it is now – in any arena, whether military, story, excerpted below. suggested that. education, women’s issues, industry. All of

14 july—august 2008 QUESTIONS Asked|DIPLOMATICA

these have been changed during these 30 Mundy as Canada’s ambassador to Iran, of the celebrated pope. “He was a beautiful years regardless of enemies, regardless of reciprocity would not have taken place. man.” Mr. Mohebi is less impressed by Pope pressure and sanctions. For a little example, Iran felt very dishonoured that the am- Benedict: “This pope and that one,” he says, 55 percent of Iran’s university educators are bassadors to Canada, appointed by Iran, “too much different.” Before coming to Ot- women. This, despite all the pressure we have been rejected twice – two people tawa, Mr. Mohebi was deputy, successively, are trying to endure. So I think, despite all – and that Mr. Mundy was received okay. of the West Europe Department and the Li- of these things, we are going to go forward. This does not feel right from either the brary of Political and International Studies We are not going to stop our determination, political or the diplomatic point of view. in Iran’s Foreign Affairs Department.] our persistence. It’s pulling us to go. Noth- [The two men, Ahmad Azizi and Alireza ing can stop it. Nobary were reported in the media to be DM: In some ways, Iran is probably the turned down for suspected or known links most controversial country in the entire DM: And where are you going? What is to radicals who, in 1979, took over the U.S. world right now and probably the most your goal? embassy in Tehran and held its staff hos- watched. There’s the nuclear program. SMM: Prosperity of the country. Iran pros- tage for 444 days. There’s Lebanon, Syria, Hamas, Hezbollah. pers, and the region prospers, because it There’s Israel. is Muslim. The same culture. The same DM: But Iran didn’t accuse Mr. Mundy of SMM: And your question is….? people. It’s like North America – the same spying or any wrong-doing? people, the same prosperity. Your goal is SMM: No. DM: What does Iran want? the prosperity of North America. Our goal SMM: In our opinion, the only impor- is prosperity of the Middle East. Why not? DM: Did Canada refuse the two ambassa- tant things Iran is looking for are stability, dors from Iran on the basis of their relation- peace and tranquility in the region for the DM: Why does Iran not tell Canada what ship with Iranian intelligence? people of Iran and for the neighboring happened to Zahra Kazemi? Why does Iran SMM: Media reports say they were con- countries. At the same time, we’re trying to not simply admit it: We lied. nected to a radical group’s hostage-tak- bring prosperity to the region. Nothing but SMM: We have talked so much about Zahra ing. We don’t accept that. If Foreign Affairs these. We are not looking for controversy. Kazemi, who was an Iranian national. We asked us [about the men], we will answer Iran is a big country with a lot of influence. have gone through that. It’s a little off the them. Both of these men were career em- Iran is willing to use this influence to the topic now. What’s new is, of course, the ployees of Iran’s foreign affairs department. best positive potential, to bring it to the best fact that the judiciary of Iran, the Supreme They were previously ambassadors to Rus- use for our people, for the success of our Court of Iran, has opened this [case] to an- sia and other countries and had established people. And the only way we are guided is other investigation that will go back to the reputations. The Canadian government by the spirituality of our Prophet and other very beginning. We are waiting for the re- never explained its decisions. They didn’t prophets. We are led by this spirituality sult. The investigation will take time but say why. – and nothing but it. the case is open. DM: The next person who may come is Bah- DM: I want to ask you what it is like to be DM: What is Iran willing to do to make ram Ghasemi [who has served as Iran’s am- an ambassador when – not be insulting things right in the Kazemi case? bassador in Spain, Italy and Ireland]. Will – you are in some ways a black sheep in SMM: It is time-consuming to talk about it. he replace you? international affairs. What is it like to work It is almost a book to talk about it. Our judi- SMM: Who said I’m leaving? under these circumstances? ciary system is just like any other country’s. SMM: Bah bah, black sheep, eh? Have you It's a system that works independently. It DM: Are you staying or going? any wool? Yes sir, yes sir, three bags full. I has rules. Of course, like any other country, SMM: [In English.] I’m staying. [Laughter.] know that from my children. [Everyone the media put so much emphasis on the laughs.] I believe that if you do what God case, that is damaging the process. We must DM: Are you content with your role as is willing you to do, then the pressure will trust the system, the judge. charge d’affaires? be eased on you. If He accepts that what we SMM: Yes, it is good now. It is enough. I do is based on certain principles, the pres- DM: Canada does not have an ambassador have no desire for myself except God’s sure won’t be a problem. And I hope that in Iran now. [Iran asked John Mundy, the glory and human salvation. God will help me through it. ambassador appointed to Tehran, in De- cember, 2007, to leave ] You expelled Mr. [Editor’s Note: Mr. Mohebi, 52, lives with DM: So you do feel the pressure? [Mr. Mo- Mundy. Why? his wife, Mahim, in Ottawa. They have two hebi gives a nod.] SMM: As you may know, two ambassadors daughters, Saeideh, 26 and Sajedeh, 22. He DM: Do people avoid you? Do they ask [from Iran] have been introduced to Can- graduated with a degree in political science you aggressive questions? Does Iran worry ada. Iran’s foreign affairs department gave from the University of Tehran. Before the them? the names of these ambassadors to Cana- revolution, during his high school years, he SMM: From a personal point of view, ev- dian Foreign Affairs after the departure wanted to be an engineer. After the revo- erybody is under pressure from work. from Canada of His Excellency, Dr. Mo- lution, the influence of Supreme Leader But from the job point of view, we are un- hammad Ali Mousavi, ambassador of Iran. Ruhollah Khomeini drew him into Iran’s der tremendous pressure from European These two ambassadors were rejected by public service. He has served as Iran’s dep- countries, from all around the world. But DFAIT. After they had been rejected, Iran uty ambassador to the Vatican (1995-1996) still we are just looking up and we are hop- asked Mr. Mundy to leave. Of course, this where Pope John Paul II impressed him as a ing that He will help us through. That God was reciprocity. If Iran had accepted Mr. great man. “I loved him,” Mr. Mohebi says will help us. If God is willing.

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A land of adventure and romance, tiny Panama (population: three million) is booming. And Canadians are rushing to get a piece of the action – as homeowners in paradise. ‘The Switzerland of Central America’

hough small in size and in population, Panama has emerged as perhaps the most dynamic nation in Central America. The only Latin American country that has never had a currency crisis, T Panama is now a stable, growth-driven democracy. Its economy is booming, expanding at one of the fastest rates in the world (by 11.2 per- cent in 2006, by 7.8 percent in 2007). Often described as “the most foreign- friendly country in the world,” Panama attracts people – by the thousands, from Europe, from North America, from South America – as visitors to its ocean beaches and as new residents in Panama City, a sophisticated and

16 july—august 2008 Hub of the hemisphere|Di spatches

‘The Switzerland of Central America’

cosmopolitan town with a truly great skyline. No wonder. The Christian Science Monitor calls Panama “the Switzerland of Central America.” Panama’s prospects look world-class good. The doubling of the Panama Canal, a US $5 billion project, is underway. The Miami Herald reported in March that Panama registered 15,490 companies in the previous eight months, more than 60 a day. And the construction boom isn’t limited to Panama City. People are moving into the mountains, too, for homes in a tropical paradise – including people from Canada now rushing to buy homes that will be tax-free for the next 20 years.

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Panamanian Ambassador Romy Vasquez says investors are betting on her country because it’s a way to reach the world.

18 july—august 2008 Hub of the hemisphere|Di spatches ‘Panama was born globalized’ Romy Vasquez, Panama’s ambassador to Canada, takes us on a tour of the country – from its legendary past and into a vision of its future. “Panama is much more than a canal,” she says. “It is a country that belongs to a hemisphere where people meet at one of the world’s most special crossroads.”

efore Pa na ma was and the United States. huantepec. There was intense competition Panama, it was New Having a monopoly on Panamanian between Panama and the other contenders Grenada, a part of the transit, the railroad produced important for the Californian gold trade. The actual country now called information for the largest and most overland crossing was shorter and faster Colombia. The Re- important project of the Americas at that at Panama but Nicaragua was closer to the public of Panama, as time, the construction of the Panama Ca- United States and was considered, over a country unto itself, nal. Panama was infamously known as a all, less costly. wasn’t created until pesthole, a death trap; however, the cost in Two of the most celebrated events of 1903. Yet in the beginning, as now, Pan- human lives was never accurately known the century were occurring simultane- B ama was a unique place with a destiny since the company kept systematic records ously – the opening of the Suez Canal and inextricably shaped by the narrow isth- only of its white workers. the completion of the Union Pacific Rail- mus that separates the Atlantic and the Nonetheless, there is plenty of evidence road. The world was becoming smaller; Pacific Oceans. The Isthmus of Panama is of the problems. In 1852, cholera swept the two sides were greeting one another. the narrowest part of the North American across the isthmus with the arrival of a In his extraordinary book, The Path Be- continent, making it, from earliest times, steamer boat from New Orleans and the tween the Seas, David McCullough writes: a place that has uniquely excited the world panicked – as it would today under “The feeling was that the revealed powers imaginations of adventurous men – men comparable conditions. Physicians arrived of science … had brought mankind to a of trade and science, men of politics and from many countries to study the causes threshold. Men talked confidently of fu- conquest. of the epidemics and some became deeply ture systems of transport that would bring As a consequence of its strategic lo- entrenched in the history of the country. all peoples into contact with one another, cation, Panama has become a hub for Yet the Panama Railroad and its clients re- spread knowledge, break down national international trade and commerce. The mained in operation, collecting important divisions, and make a unified whole of Panama Railroad, an American company information about the mountains’ eleva- humanity.” with rights to transit across the isthmus, tion above sea level and the tides of the was operating after 1855, a sign of civiliza- oceans, information essential to the even- Globalization created a decisive role for tion for many expeditions, running north tual construction of the Panama Canal. the Panama Canal, la raison d´être du Pan- to south, starting at Colon on Limon Bay Within the Central American region, ama. Today, the role is the same as it was and finishing at Panama City on the Bay the vision of a canal for transportation and when first imagined – to open up global of Panama. Labourers were brought in trade was considered between 1870 and possibilities for trade. Did the Republic elland w by boat from many parts of the world: 1900, and there were four potential loca- of Panama decide to become the site of a

Ben Ireland, China, the West Indies, Germany tions: Panama, Nicaragua, Darien and Te- great masterpiece of human engineering?

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Or did this canal, with a mind of its own, evelt wanted to accept the French offer, pick Panama as its flag and pro mundi ben- regardless of the fact that the U.S. House eficio as Panama’s emblem has read since of Representatives had already decided to its creation? proceed with a canal in Nicaragua. More than a question, this is a delibera- And so the Republic of Panama was tion that comes to mind when you realize born and the construction of the Panama that Panama was born globalized, that Canal restarted under the administration Panama was blessed with a location that of the United States government. It was has made it “the centre of the world,” a completed in 1914. great logistic platform that serves more Many generations of people have than 120 maritime routes of 80 countries contributed to the canal’s success – from around the world. Was this the motivation original construction, to the signing of the in the mind of French developer Ferdi- U.S.-Panama treaties that turned the canal nand de Lesseps when he decided to con- over to Panamanian control on Dec. 31, quer the New World, after his success with 1999. the construction of the Suez Canal? The signing of the Torrijos-Carter Treaty The story of de Lesseps deserves a book on Sept. 7, 1977, made Panama’s sover- of its own. It is useful to know that he was eignty over the Panama Canal and its ter- more of a diplomat than a man of science. ritory official. It marked a breaking point Indeed, he never pursued engineering in the history of Panama’s relationship studies. He nevertheless became the entre- with the U.S. As a result, at the turn of the peneur extraordinaire, with all the requisite new century, the U.S. transferred 370,000 traits for the role: nerve, persistence, dyna- acres of land, including buildings such as mism, energy, a talent for public relations, military facilities, warehouses, schools, a capacity for deception and imagination. and private residences to Panama. An international congress was orga- Panama’s historic struggle to recover nized in Paris under. De Lesseps’s leader- the canal thus ended with the past century, ship, in May 1879, with stakeholders from and a new Panamanian era started with a all countries involved, including those vision to become the largest per-capita from Central American nations, Colom- destination of direct foreign investment bia, Mexico, and the United States, and in the region. It seemed as if we were dor- the decision was taken to pursue the con- U.S. construction on the Panama Canal began in mant, as if a piece of land was borrowed struction of a canal in Panama. The sale of 1904 and the canal was formally opened in 1914. for too long and we had to catch up in stock in the company turned out to be one the race. But over and above all estimates, of the most astonishing events in financial Panamanians have succeeded, because we history. De Lesseps arrived in Panama eight months of the year were hot but with were not sleeping, we were in training. By at the end of 1879 and by the summer a humidity of 98 per cent, in the middle the 1990s, Panama had fully transformed of 1881, there were 200 French and Eu- of the jungle with a rainfall measured in itself. A wholly new country, a democracy, ropean technicians and clerical help on feet, not in inches as in Suez, and where had emerged. the isthmus, and some 800 labourers at there was sometimes not enough water to Since the transfer, the ACP (Panama work, building barracks and hospitals, sustain the labour force. Canal Authority) has profitably managed and assembling and testing newly arrived Regrettably, yellow fever returned to the Panama Canal for seven years, provid- equipment. the Isthmus of Panama and some of the ing more profit than the U.S. administra- Panama welcomed Ferdinand de Les- engineers and workers died. Then malaria, tion during its 85 years of management. seps’s joie de vivre and he certainly left the the most common of the tropical diseases, This achievement has been recognized impression that he was having a great attacked the population and seemed never by international financial rating agencies. time; after some months going over the to go away. The disease became part of the The Panamanian administration adopted ground, he declared that the work was landscape for years. This motivated many new pricing and managerial structures, going to be easier than at Suez. He wrote men of science to come and engage in both more consistent with Panama’s na- to Charles, his son, “Now that I have gone research to find the cure to these illnesses, tional interests. This new system allowed over the various localities in the isthmus to exchange information throughout changes to the old tolls model that had with our engineers, I cannot understand academic institutions, yet another form of been established two years prior to the why they hesitated so long in declaring international trade, though this time for inauguration of the waterway, back in that it would be practicable to build a education and for science. 1914. The previous U.S. formula operated maritime canal between two oceans at In these impossible conditions, the on a not-for-profit, cost-recovery basis. As sea level, for the distance is as short as be- French company went bankrupt. The of- a strictly Panamanian enterprise, the canal tween Paris and Fontainebleau.” ficial end came on Feb. 4, 1889. By January needed a system capable of generating Indeed, the distance was shorter – yet 1902, the French company offered its total benefits for its shareholders: all Panama- this was the only advantage over Suez. Ev- inventory, including the railroad they had nians. erything else was substantially more com- bought from the American company for All through its history, the canal has plicated. At Suez, the digging was through an estimated value of US$40 million, to the continually adapted and adjusted its struc- sand, in a hot but dry climate. In Panama, United States. President Theodore Roos- ture to meet commercial requirements

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and international maritime transport and the Caribbean – has been an impor- technologies. This is a non-stop dynamic tant distribution centre, the largest among process that forces all the sectors of the those in the continent. Expansion of its economy to be updated and it challenges operations and adding a more logistical our society to become aware of the need scope is crucial if the trade zone is to re- for improvements. From this perception, main competitive in the years to come. technicians and consultants from all over On the Pacific Coast, the conversion of the world are arriving in Panama, just like the former U.S. Howard Air Force Base the expeditions of the 1870s, to offer their into a semi-industrial logistical facil- expertise and to become part of the best ity is currently underway. The contract, project of the Americas, the expansion of awarded to a British real estate developer, the Panama Canal. provides a master plan for commercial Panamanians voted in a national refer- and residential development. Currently endum for the expansion of the Panama Dell Computers as well as STI, the Sin- Canal in October 2006. The total capital gapore aircraft maintenance group, have cost is estimated at US$ 5.2 billion and it established operations centres at Howard, consists of the construction of two sets today called Panama Pacific Special Eco- of locks with three chambers and nine nomic Area. Under the recent special regu- lateral water basins. It includes dredging lations for the establishment and operation the canal entrances both in the Atlantic of multinational corporation headquarters, and the Pacific; widening and deepening companies like Caterpillar, Procter and the internal navigational channels; and Gamble and Hewlett Packard are estab- providing the entire infrastructure that is lishing regional training and headquarter required to bring the project to full opera- offices at this site as well. tion by 2014. The current operation of the The modern railroad operated by Kan- Panama Canal will not be discontinued Panamanians voted in a 2006 referendum for the sas Southern Rail is part of the intermodal expansion of the Panama Canal, a project that will while the expansion progresses. This is a cost US$5.2 billion. system operating in Panama, and it moves great opportunity for contractors and pro- cargo and passengers between the termi- fessionals from all over the world. It will nal cities of Panama and Colon. drive the national economy and improve Since the transfer, the ACP Air transportation plays a major role in the quality of life for all Panamanians. today’s trade and logistical operations. Not Panama’s vision, its economic potential, (Panama Canal Authority) only do we operate Tocumen International is not limited to our own borders. It would Airport but we also have the Albrook Air- has profitably managed be a waste of the opportunities that ge- port for domestic flights. In the future, the ography brings to us. Panama is a rather the Panama Canal for Howard base will play a major role in the small economy in size, population, and Panama-Pacific Special Economic Area, as total surface. Its location and geographical seven years, providing it has a first-class airport. characteristics dictate that Panama fulfil a more profit than the U.S. Research and development, along with more international mission. technological innovation, play an impor- The country's proximity to the Carib- administration during its tant role in Panama’s vision. The City of bean markets, its alliance with the Central Knowledge (an educational complex built American nations (SICA) and our tradi- 85 years of management. on a 300-acre campus overlooking the Pa- tional ties with the Andean Community of This achievement has been cific) invites academics and researchers to Nations (Colombia, Ecuador, Peru, Bolivia join with government personnel and busi- and Chile) all offer great economic pos- recognized by international ness people to study and work together. In sibilities for Panama and for Canada, too. a different venue, the regional representa- financial rating agencies. Indeed, Panama offers Canada a wonder- tives of the United Nations have moved ful waterway of possibilities for trade. operations to the City of Knowledge – as Panama has entered a Free Trade Agree- well as other international organizations. ment (FTA) with Chile. It has established through the Panama Canal. Panama is the crossroads for submarine closer ties with Brazil and Brazilian cor- The Panamanian port system is pri- cable. This connectivity has proven its im- porations are bringing venture capital in vately operated. It has grown from a mi- portance in providing back-up in extreme Panama to finance important infrastruc- nor container operation with about 400,000 situations such as the terrorist attack that ture work in the country. TEUs (a unit of volume measurement) per occurred Sept. 11, 2001.The submarine ca- Panama has completed discussions year into a world-class operation moving ble system provided support to impaired with the U.S. on an FTA, for the United some 3.5 million TEUs per year. It is the satellite communications. States is Panama’s largest trading partner. largest container system in Latin America The presence of the Smithsonian Tropi- We are now waiting for the Congressional and moves cargo from about 145 different cal Research Institute in Panama began approval. This is an important step toward ports of origin. with the construction of the Panama Canal approaching NAFTA as an integrated mar- The Colon Free Zone – a large entity in the early 1900s, when (for the purpose ket. The three NAFTA countries provide at the Atlantic gateway to the canal that of controlling insect diseases) biologists about two-thirds of the cargo that moves re-exports merchandise to Latin America decided to establish a permanent reserve

diplomat and international canada 21 Di spatches|Hub of the hemisphere

on an island. Since 1923, we have hosted We can describe Panama’s fortune in people meet at one of the world’s most the earliest biological reserve in the Amer- three words: Location, location, and loca- special crossroads. icas. Today, it is known as Barro Colorado tion in a special place where geography it- We can profit from Canada’s experience Island (BCI) and it is the most intensively self is one of the country’s most important in information technology, from its social studied areas in the tropics, home to a natural resources. responsibility programs, from the mining recorded 1,316 plant species, 381 bird From Canada’s perspective, this combi- sector, energy sector and hydro and water species, and 102 mammal species on a nation of attributes attracts the would-be management projects. The expansion of 1,500-hectare island with 59 kilometres of retiree who wishes to acquire a property the Panama Canal opens the opportunity protected trails. The name Panama, since in a country with low political risk, with for English learning, so necessary in Pan- the times of the Spanish conquista, means economic growth and with a healthy ur- ama for technical careers and for tourism abundance of fish and butterflies – a ban lifestyle. There are a wide variety of activities. wonderful metaphor for the abundance of residential options, which include moun- Panama has been a bridge between international flags that cross the Panama tain, beach, and city communities. North and South for hundreds of species, Canal. Most importantly, Panama represents and myriads of people. Back in 1826, Si- The Bridge of Life, Canadian Frank an ideal market-access platform from mon Bolivar stated: “If the world had to Ghery’s museum of biodiversity, will which Canadian firms can manage re- choose its capital, the Isthmus of Panama operate beside the Pacific Ocean, visible gional investments and contemplate op- would be selected for this august destiny, at great distance by visitors arriving via portunities for investment, development situated as it is at the centre of the globe.” cruise ships. This will be a new icon for and growth. Within CARICOM nations, Independent for almost 105 years, Pan- Panama, a beautiful park showcasing the the market access reaches about 14 mil- ama has become an international meeting diversity of natural life in Panama. The lion; the Andean nations, 100 million; the place – carrying on the ways of previous Bridge of Life will be the hub of an inter- Mercosur nations, 212 million – just to generations when trade fairs lured mer- change of nature, culture and economy, mention the Americas. This is the platform chants and traders. Today, many investors as well as a centre for learning and dis- that Panama uniquely offers to Canadian and financial managers are betting on covery. businesses. Panama because from Panama, they can When integrated into a single view, Panama, though, is much more than reach the world. what we see in Panama is total connectiv- the canal. It is a country that belongs to a ity by air, land or sea, supporting interna- hemisphere that has to maintain the twin Romy Vasquez is Panama's Ambasssador tional trade and commerce from all over pillars of security and prosperity, where to Canada. the world. trade remains vital and vibrant, where

ROMY VASQUEZ’ Guide is, of course, its people. From high-quality restaurants, inter- FOR TRAVELLERS the Ngobes Bugle in the West national banking services – in to the Embera and Wounan short, it’s a service economy Panama attracts people in the East, we find a wide that provides a fast-track tran- from all over the world – in array of handcrafts including sition to a tropical paradise. such numbers that demand baskets, jaguar fruit, jewellery, Preferred destinations for hotel rooms by business sculptures that represent our include Boquete Valley which people exceeds the supply. flora and fauna, the world- has a springtime-like climate Now foreign companies and famous molas by Junas, straw at an elevation of 3,500 feet. foreign investors are buying hats and creative paintings It’s unspoiled nature and residences simply to have from the Atlantic coast. famous for its coffee planta- accommodations available Canadian visitors, perhaps tions and golf courses. when they need them. It’s outdoor people by nature, contains an exceptional variety Another popular spot is the quite unbelievable, really. In are especially attracted to of habitats – sandy beaches, Pearl Islands on the Pacific, the span of only a few years eco-tourism and to adventure rocky coasts, mangroves, which has become a haven for (since Sept. 11, 2001) Panama travel in Panama. The National swamps and lowland and scuba lovers looking for sea City has become the city in Park of Darien, which borders upland tropical forests con- turtles, whales and dolphins. It which to do business, in which Panama and Colombia, was taining remarkable wildlife.” is also now a common destina- to invest, in which to find the declared a world biosphere Panama is more than a tion for sport-fishing marlin, best in R&R. reserve by UNESCO in 1981. country that unites continents. tuna and wahoo. Oddly, it was Survivor, the (It is also an anthropologic It has become a second Bocas del Toro, on the television series, that opened reserve in which the Embera residence for many retired Atlantic, has become the jet- Panama’s jungles and exotic and Wounan cultures reside.) people. Whether attracted to set place for international trav- places to public attention The UNESCO website refers the cosmopolitan skyline of ellers and for young surfers. – helping Panamanians to to the park as the place that Panama City or to the ocean or Last but not least, our recognise the economic impor- unites two continents: to the rainforest, people are Peninsula de Azuero, where tance of Panama’s natural “Forming a bridge between finding that Panama provides the colonial past and its tradi- resources. the two continents of the New them with high-quality, pri- tions survive, offers visitors fes- Panama’s greatest resource World, Darien National Park vate (affordable) healthcare, tivals and carnival celebrations.

22 july—august 2008 Hub of the hemisphere|Di spatches

Retiring soon, Señor? Panama has become a retirement haven for Canadians – among its many other advantages, it's earthquake- and hurricane-free. And Panama's taxes make them feel very welcome

By Neil Reynolds

eon and Sue Dykler live and work in Ottawa. They have been happily Lmarried, as Mr. Dykler puts it, for 32 years. They have two children, grown up and on their own. They’re not ready for retirement (Mr. Dykler is 55) but they are ready to get ready for it – which ex- plains why they have purchased land in Panama. The Dyklers checked out a number of countries in Central America and South America before picking Panama. “We liked them all,” Mr. Dykler says. “But Panama kept coming up as one of the best. And then Sue found out that Pan- ama is one of the few countries without earthquakes, without hurricanes.” They selected a plot in Santa Clara, an hour’s drive from Panama City – and 10 minutes from the white sand beaches of the Pacific Ocean. A financial consultant, Mr. Dykler kept track of Panama’s winning attributes: • Panama offers large, established expatriate communities, making it comfortable for newcomers. Santa Clara was one of the first. Mr. Dykler says he and his wife chose from several such communities, ranging from warmer ocean-front to cooler mountain locations. • Panama City is a modern metropolis, complete with skyscrapers, modern infrastructure and modern amenities Isla Pelicano is one of the 365 islands that make up Panama. Such charming spots are part of what’s and all the latest communications attracting Canadians in droves. technologies. Products normally available in Canada and the U.S. are available in Panama City. of Johns Hopkins University in Balti- time they spend in the country. “Panama • Panama provides a relatively low more. offers one of the best retirement packages cost-of-living. Panama uses the U.S. • And the weather is divine – espe- in the world,” he says. “It offers different dollar as its currency and is one of cially for people such as Leon and kinds of visas for people who want to re- the few Central American countries Sue Dykler, who do not enjoy long, tire, others kinds for people who want to (or South American, for that matter) cold Canadian winters. invest or start businesses. The opportuni- never to have experienced a cur- “Panama is a beautiful country,” Mr. ties are enormous – in agriculture, tourism, rency crisis. Dykler says. “It has beaches, mountains environmental services. Large numbers of • Excellent health-care services are and rain forests. It has an amazing variety people are moving to Panama from North available at reasonable cost. Panama of vegetation and birds. America and from Europe – and creating has a universal health-care system “Panamanians are extremely friendly more opportunities all the time.” for Panamanians but foreigners can people who always seem willing to help. buy private insurance coverage at They have always been exposed to people Hannan Singh is a third-generation such institutions as Hospital Punta from other countries and cultures.” Panamanian whose grandfather – a mer- Pacifica, Panama City’s biggest hos- And Panama makes it as easy as pos- chant – migrated from India in the 1920s. pital, which operates as an affiliate sible for foreigners to run businesses in the He lives in Panama City (population: 1.5

diplomat and international canada 23 Di spatches|Hub of the hemisphere

million, or one-half of the country’s popu- are many small islands close to Panama lation) and sells real estate with Panama City – for $250,000. Or you can buy a one- Investment Management Group. He acre lot on a more remote and completely knows Toronto well – because most of his privately-owned island for $700,000. In Canadian clients live in Toronto. He was in this case, you either use your yacht to get Toronto last month, meeting with clients. to your property or you take a 15-minute “Panama City is one of the most cosmo- commuter flight from Panama City. This politan cities in the world,” Mr. Singh says. exclusive island has its own Jack Nicklaus “It’s a melting pot. It’s a little of New York golf course. and a little of Miami. Toronto is a diverse Panama goes out of its way to make it- city, too. If you’re comfortable in Toronto, self friendly to foreign investors – whether you’ll be comfortable in Panama City. retired or not. Buy a new house in Pan- “The Panama City skyline beats the Mi- ama, for example, and you will pay no ami skyline,” he says, “and is close to New property taxes for 20 years. Prove that you York’s skyline. The cuisine is comparable. are a pensioner (with minimum retirement You pass a Lebanese restaurant that’s next An important further income of US$600 a month for a couple) door to an Argentinean steak house that’s and you qualify for: incentive is Panama’s income next door to a Chinese restaurant that’s • a 25 per cent reduction in airfares out across the street from a trendy Asian fu- tax regime. Panama does of Panama; sion restaurant that’s owned by a New • a 25 per cent discount on all restau- Yorker.” not tax any income that rant meals; Panama City is a 2.5-hour direct flight, • a 15 per cent discount on all pre- slightly more or slightly less, to eight is generated outside the scription drugs; American cities – Miami, Orlando, Hous- • a 50 per cent discount on entertain- country. Thus, for example, ton, Los Angeles, Atlanta, Newark, New ment (movies, concerts, sporting York and Washington. For the moment, Canadians who buy prop- events); Canadians must fly to one of these cit- • a 50 per cent discount on all hotel ies, then take a separate flight to Panama erty in Panama can provide stays (Monday through Thursday); City. But they will not have to do so much a 30 percent discount Friday through longer. Canada and Panama have negoti- professional services to Sunday; • ated a deal that permits direct flights from clients back in Canada a 20 per cent discount on all profes- Canada to Panama City, which Mr. Singh sional services; describes as “the hub of the hemisphere.” without incurring any • a 30 per cent discount on all bus and (Canada and Panama, incidentally, are boat fares; now in the process of negotiating a free- Panamanian tax liability. • and a 50 per cent discount on the trade agreement.) Panama connects to closing costs for home loans. (On the other hand, Canada Europe through direct flights from Madrid You also get a one-time tax exemption and Amsterdam. taxes Canadians on their on the importation of household goods Mr. Singh says Canadians are now (up to $10,000) and a tax exemption every arriving in Panama “by the boat load” world-wide income.) two years on the importation (or local pur- – either as tourists, as part-time residents chase) of a car. or as investors. Europeans are arriving An important further incentive is Pana- in greater numbers all the time and, with in the heart of the city with a full ocean ma’s income tax regime. Panama does not the rise in the value of the euro, Mr. Singh view. Drive an hour, or an hour and a half, tax any income that is generated outside expects these numbers will increase dra- and you can expect to pay from $125,000 the country. Thus, for example, Canadians matically in the coming year. But South to $200,000 for the same one-bedroom who buy property in Panama can provide Americans are arriving in greater num- condo. For a three-bedroom home in a se- professional services to clients back in bers, too. People and money are fleeing cure, gated community, you can expect to Canada without incurring any Panama- nearby Venezuela especially in a classic pay from $120,000 to $250,000. nian tax liability. (On the other hand, flight-to-safety from the hard-left regime Or you can select a gated community Canada taxes Canadians on their world- of President Hugo Chavez. in what Mr. Singh describes as “the coffee wide income.) “Retired Canadians are coming as full- highlands.” When the American Asso- time residents and as part-time residents,” ciation of Retired Persons (AARP) selected For tourists, aside from ocean beaches, Mr. Singh says. “Some come for the the world’s 10 top places for retirement the Panama Canal itself remains a huge at- beaches, some come for Panama City. The living, it picked one of these Panamanian traction – followed by Casco Viejo, the old Canadian snowbirds often live in Panama mountain communities as No. 4 – a small Spanish colonial quarter of Panama City, for six months and then rent out their town named Boquete in the province of famed for its art deco architecture, its cob- homes for the other six." Chiriqui. blestone streets and its historic churches. For a one-bedroom condo in Pan- As with real estate everywhere, prices It has been designated by UNESCO as a ama City, you can expect to pay from are determined by location, location, World Heritage site. US$100,000 to $300,000 – though, at the location. You can buy a private home in top end of this scale, you would be living a gated community on an island – there Neil Reynolds is Diplomat’s publisher.

24 july—august 2008 Naval DEFENCE|Di spatches

Relentless in Chase HMCS Iroquois, Calgary and Protecteur warm up for war on terror

By Patrick Lennox anada C

f o t overnmen G , DND

Fresh from a brief foray into the War on Drugs in the Caribbean, the HMCS Iroquois destroyer is one of three Canadian ships heading for a six-month deployment in the dangerous waters of the Arabian Sea. The frigate Calgary and the supply ship Protecteur will join the multi-nation Combined Task Force 150 that stops and boards ships to counter trafficking in drugs, alcohol, arms and people.

s I waited at the Scotian Gate of a prayer from Padre Liam Thomas, and mentioned by Gen. Hillier. Commodore the Halifax Dockyard for the Mil- the national anthem completed a moving Bob Davidson and his flagstaff took com- Aitary Police to grant me access to ceremony befitting the magnitude of what mand and control of this multinational board HMCS Iroquois, families streamed Iroquois and its crew were setting out to task force in early June 2008. by to watch loved ones deploy for six accomplish on behalf of the Canadian land But before sailing across the pond, months to fight the Global War on Terror. and people they would leave behind. Be- Iroquois (the flagship destroyer of the task The separation anxiety already evident fore they departed, Gen. Hillier made sure force) had to meet up with its West Coast upon their faces was much in tune with to remind them that “Canada is the great- colleagues Calgary (a frigate) and Protecteur the ominous sound of the Stadacona Band est country in the world,” and our Charter (a supply ship) on the Atlantic side of the of Maritime Forces Atlantic playing “Eter- of Rights and Freedoms is the envy of Panama Canal and make a quick contribu- nal Father” from the flight deck of HMCS those who suffer under the oppressive tion to the War on Drugs in the Caribbean Athabaskan. forces of dictatorship, crime, poverty, and basin. Sailing in concert, these three ships Lt.-Cmdr. Matt Bowen appeared within chaos. formed what is known as a task group. a few minutes, bearded, flat-topped, and The 36-year-old destroyer Iroquois Once Calgary and Protecteur were bespectacled to escort me through the ­– with myself, six years its junior, as the through the canal, the three Canadian gate, along the jetty, and over the brow only civilian member of ship’s company – ships spent a couple of days and nights into the ship. He showed me my cabin was ultimately bound for the Arabian Sea trying actively to contribute to Joint In- and led me back out on the quarter deck to take command of a dimension of the ter-Agency Task Force South’s efforts to to watch Vice-Admiral Drew Robertson Global war on Terror (GWOT), known as combat the flow of narcotics into North and Gen. Rick Hillier send us off in style. Combined Task Force 150, which seeks to America from places like Mexico, Panama, Rousing speeches from those two men, put a dent in some of the oppressive forces Columbia and Honduras.

diplomat and international canada 25 Di spatches|NAVAL DEFENCE

This attempt to become actively in- volved in JIATF’s efforts caught the Amer- icans a bit off-guard. Usually, allied ships sailing through the Caribbean call in their presence in the region to JIATF’s head- quarters in Key West, Florida, as a matter of courtesy in case they are needed in a pinch to become involved in tracking or providing surveillance of a case of drug trafficking. Commodore Davidson, however, was hoping to make more of an impact in the region, and accordingly wanted to be linked into JIATF’s intelligence network and given the opportunity – should one have arisen – to get actively into the coun- ter illicit trafficking game. But there were both technical and polit- ical difficulties with this, as it turned out. Chief of Defence Staff Gen. Rick Hillier speaks with soldiers’ families and friends during the departure Technically, it was a challenge to establish ceremony at HMC Dockyard in Halifax. In his address to the crew, Gen. Hillier, who retired July 1, called the necessary encrypted communications Canada “the greatest country in the world” and a herald for freedom where people are oppressed by between JIATF and the Canadian Task chaos, dictatorship and poverty. Group; and politically the Americans were hesitant to give the Canadian ships orders, fearing they might cross some of the sensi- tive bounds of sovereignty in the process. This was the explanation I extracted from the U.S. Navy exchange officer who rejoined Iroquois after the first leg of its deployment in San Juan, Puerto Rico from his posting at JIATF headquarters in Key West, Florida. Regardless of any glitches (technical or otherwise) that may have hindered the

task group’s integration into the Ameri- anada C

f can-led War on Drugs, the presence of o t Canadian warships off these coasts nev- ertheless contributed to JIATF’s cause by overnmen G acting as a deterrent to drug runners, and , by helping with the construction of a com- DND os: t ho

mon maritime operational picture through p the use of the ships’ range of surveillance all capabilities. Sea King helicopter pilots make their way to the ship’s hangar during a combat exercise. Helicopters are a And while the Canadian ships may not ‘force multiplier’ essential to Canada’s maritime capability have provided any further actionable in- telligence on any of the outstanding cases being pursued by JIATF, their presence in metres above the ocean, and flew straight United States, and to reaffirm the fact that the region was certainly noted by both the at Iroquois’ bow. It shone a light at the Canada takes the Caribbean seriously as Americans and others. At 10 p.m. April 26, bridge before vanishing into the night. The an area of strategic interest. An added ben- 75 kilometres off the coast of Colombia, rumour going around the ship the next efit of conducting this operation was that Iroquois was buzzed by a helicopter with morning was that the Columbian Military it allowed the Canadian crews to warm up all of its lamps blacked out. I happened had ventured out to take a closer look at for what will be a very long and very hot to be on the bridge at the time, and was us, but that was never confirmed one way contribution to the GWOT. thus a witness not only to the aggressive or the other. Who it was that buzzed us at For example, the men and women who behaviour of the stranger, but also to the dusk that evening will remain a mystery. were selected to be on the team that will swirl of activity that feverishly animated The purpose of OP Caribbe, as it is approach and board suspicious vessels Iroquois for a few thrilling moments. known, was to continue Canada’s con- in the Arabian Sea have been training The helicopter was hailed by radio tribution to the War against Drugs in the hard under the direction of Combat Chief three times from the operations room of Caribbean, picking up—if only momen- Dave Steeves. Chief Steeves is built like our ship while it was flying approximately tarily—where HMCS Fredericton left off a bull terrier, and he is conditioning the 150 metres above us. After the third hail- last summer, to demonstrate the country’s boarding party to tolerate major physical ing it descended to approximately 20 continued capability in this area to the exertions in hot weather by leading them

26 july—august 2008 NAVAL DEFENCE|Di spatches

surveillance flights, with an eye towards both drug runners in the Caribbean, and building up for a more varied array of tar- gets in the Arabian Sea. The 45-year-old Sea Kings have a bit of an image problem in Canada, but after having flown in one for a couple of hours at nearly 200km/hr 18 metres. above the Sargasso Sea, it is clear that the Air Det of Iroquois will get the most out of its old bird in the coming deployment. Indeed, the officer on exchange with Iroquois from the U.S. Navy expressed his amazement with how much his Canadian crewmates could accomplish with so little in terms of military hardware. After spending time on a Canadian warship, Officer Matt Noland was adamant that

(Left to right) On board the Iroquois, Master Seaman Sherman Lillington, Commander Patrick Deschenes, he’d never complain about lack of U.S. writer Patrick Lennox and Lt. Jim Chase take a moment during a fuel resupply from HMCS Protecteur off government funding again. the Panamanian coast. The Captain of Iroquois, Brendan Ryan, likely had much to do with Officer No- land’s high impressions of the Canadian Navy. Capt. Ryan, a towering and wiry man, qualified for the Boston Marathon this year with 18 minutes to spare, so he’s no stranger to a rigorous training regime. While at sea, he could be spotted at un- godly hours of the morning taking laps around the flight deck, likely imagining how he’d have attacked Heartbreak Hill had he not missed the race this year due to his deployment. In port in San Juan he teased me for heading out on a Friday morning run at 9 a.m. He’d hammered out 10 kilometres four hours earlier. His work ethic rubs off on his crew. He has used every opportunity since leaving Halifax to make sure they are continu- ally learning and practicing their various trades and skills. He regards the transit across the Atlantic as the penultimate A naval boarding party practices drills in preparation for intercepts on the Arabian Sea. phase in the training program for his crew. “It is like preparing for a marathon, you want to peak at the right time,” he said to me as he sketched out his grand plan for through a complex combination of aero- first two weeks of these workouts, I am making sure the crew is at the very top bics, boxercise, yoga and plyometrics on confident that Chief Steeves will prepare of its game once it comes into the area of Iroquois’ flight deck each morning. them well for the conditions they will find operations. It is not easy staying in shape at sea— in theatre. Lt. Jon Lee, a cerebral and fit 28- Once underway, Canada’s command of given the limited deck space and close year-old Halifax surfer and engineer, who CTF 150 will make a major contribution to quarters—so Chief Steeves has combined, is one of the leaders of the boarding party, the maritime dimension of the GWOT by into a single hour-long workout a series of confirmed this in a recent email. Accord- continuing a presence in the Arabian Sea. exercises that use one’s own body weight ing to Lt. Lee, the team is “really gelling Within this area, which stretches across as the primary means of resistance. Once and it’s a thing of beauty.” The morning some of the most dangerous maritime the crew becomes “leaned out” by these workouts with the charismatic and come- regions on the planet, the Task Force will exercises and “comfortable and let their dic Chief Steeves have no doubt played a work to deter, detect and ultimately inter- guards down,” Chief Steeves can “hardly key role in building this chemistry. dict trafficking in drugs, alcohol, arms and wait” to “hit them with crippling circuit The team of Sea King pilots, navigators people. training.” and mechanics—the Air Det, as they are CTF 150 was established near the be- Having joined these brave people un- known—have been training hard, as well; ginning of Operation Enduring Freedom, der the heat of the Caribbean sun for the conducting a grueling schedule of nightly or the GWOT. The Task Force typically

diplomat and international canada 27 Di spatches|NAVAL DEFENCE

combines the efforts of 12 to 15 ships from taining maritime security not only close raphy, criminology, computer science, the U.S., UK, Canada, France, Germany to home, but in distant seas, should not go mathematics, military and strategic stud- and Pakistan. Other states such as Austra- ­– as it too often does – unnoticed. ies, and even the culinary arts. lia, Portugal, and Spain have periodically The Canadian commanded task force Even in their aged condition, Canadian become involved in the Maritime Security could also become engaged in fighting warships are an immensely powerful rep- Operations that form the essence of the pirates. In particular, the escalating rate of resentation of Canada abroad, and could task force’s efforts. Command of CTF 150 piracy off the coast of Somalia could be- be used to further diplomatic, cultural and rotates every four to six months. In June, come a focal point for the mission. When economic relations between our country Commodore Davidson took command the news was announced at the April 22 and those visited by the Navy. from his counterpart, French Rear Adm. briefing by the flagstaff’s intelligence offi- Commodore Davidson’s role is accord- Jean L. Kerignard. cer, Lt. Rory Dolan, that a Security Council ingly a multifarious one: he’s the ambas- The potential profit from the illegal en- resolution was in the pipeline to create a sador of this floating embassy; director of terprises that CTF 150 seeks to disrupt has mandate for going after Somali pirates, this floating development agency; CEO of at least some connection to the financing Commodore Davidson responded with this floating demonstration of Canadian of terrorist organizations and their plots. controlled enthusiasm. industrial capacity; but most importantly, “One less drug deal in the region is one The two things that keep the Commo- he is point man for this sizable projection less IED (improvised explosive device) in dore up at night are the possibility of put- of sea power, which is designed to in- Afghanistan,” is the way this connection ting any of the ships under his command crease Canadian security at home through was explained to me by the flagstaff’s lo- into an unduly dangerous situation, and the creation of stability abroad. gistics officer, Lt. Cmdr. Todd Brayman. Lt. not giving Canadians their money’s worth Canadians and their government need Cmdr. Brayman, a career sailor with a dar- by making a major contribution to secu- to start strategizing for the long term ing sense of humour and an astounding rity in the Arabian Sea during the next six about how to make sustainable and mean- capacity to work epic hours in his cabin months. So he will constantly be trying to ingful contributions to the GWOT, should figuring out logistical dilemmas from how strike the correct balance between these two it turn out to be a multi-generational war to get needed parts to foreign ports to how often opposing imperatives. In the case of – as many believe it will. There was hope to get ships through the Panama Canal tracking and apprehending Somali pirates, amongst those who follow these issues without forking out a half-million dollars this may prove an exceptional challenge. that the Canada First Defence Strategy, in shipping tolls, may be overstating the Beyond fighting crime and creating unveiled in May by Prime Minister Ste- strength of this connection to some extent. stability, there is a desire on the part of phen Harper in Halifax, would provide Lt. Cmdr. Brayman’s argument is, how- Commodore Davidson to aid countries some clear thinking and direction about ever, buttressed by the fact that in the six in the region in further developing their how Canada would navigate the choppy months leading up to his deployment, CTF capacities to guard their own coastal and uncertain waters ahead in the realm of 150 (with the help of HMCS Charlottetown) waters. This sort of work – conducting in- 21st-century security. seized more than $300 million worth of structional workshops for coast guards in While it refrained from making projec- illicit materials in the Arabian Sea. Broken the area struggling to cope with the chal- tions about the strategic environment of down, this vast potential source of fund- lenging realities of the evolving strategic tomorrow and Canada’s role within it, ing for terrorist organizations amounted environment – helps to further Canada’s the Canada First Defence Strategy did to more than 15 tons of narcotics and international relationships with countries declare that the uncertain future called out more than 10,000 bottles of alcohol. Even like Kenya, for example, and can lead to for a combat-capable, flexible, multi-role if only a percentage of this money goes the creation of an enhanced image of Can- military. into funding IEDs and suicide bomb plots, ada in regions where its diplomatic voice The Canadian Navy, as a vital dimen- cutting off the maritime distribution net- might otherwise go unnoticed. sion of this military, is certainly combat- works for the illegal trade in arms, drugs, The Commodore, who is put together capable, flexible, and well suited to the alcohol and persons in the region is a vital physically like a cruiserweight from the performance of a variety of different roles dimension of the broader global struggle 1950s and intellectually like a cross be- from defence to diplomacy to develop- against oppressive forces, of which Islamic tween George F. Kennan and Gary Kasp- ment. But without the delivery of the extremism is certainly one. arov, feels strongly that there should be funding promised by the Harper govern- Although the maritime dimension of a member of DFAIT, CIDA and Industry ment, it will not be for long. the GWOT receives far less media atten- Canada ready to meet him in every port Having completed just two weeks of tion than the boots on the ground in Af- he visits. The reasons for this are evident a deployment scheduled to last half of ghanistan and Iraq, it is arguably of equal almost as soon as one sets foot on a Cana- a year, Iroquois, Calgary and Protecteur (if not greater significance) to the daily dian warship. slipped the jetty in San Juan, Puerto Rico lives of Canadians. The vast majority of The only force on Iroquois more power- without me in tow in early May. By the international commerce (somewhere in the ful than its impressive array of engines, time this article is published they will be vicinity of 90 per cent) flows through the guns, radars and communications technol- in theatre in the Arabian Sea. seaways. Acts of terrorism in vital strategic ogies, is the collection of people assembled regions, such as the ones Canadian ships to make these instruments function. Patrick Lennox is J.L. Granatstein Post- will be patrolling throughout their deploy- This ship could easily double as a doctoral Fellow at the Centre for Military ment, could undermine the flow of global top-tier university, with seminars offered and Strategic Studies, University of Cal- commerce in potentially serious ways. As around the clock in geopolitics, logistics, gary. He will rejoin the crew of Iroquois a trading nation with three vast coastlines, engineering, international law, aeronau- in mid-August. “Relentless in Chase” is the role of the Canadian Navy in main- tics, public relations, physics, oceanog- Iroquois’ motto.

28 july—august 2008 DELIGHTS|Books

Terrorism as an historical means to a brutal end: From one perspective, it’s a form of self-defence by George Abraham

even years after 9/11, in early June, five suspected al-Qaeda ringleaders Swere brought before a special court at the United States base in Guantanamo Bay, a Cuban/non-Cuban locale which has come to symbolize one of the darker sides of the War on Terrorism. The best known among them, Khaled Sheikh Mohamed, was unrepentant, us- ing words that have been recited before courts in more than 100 nations. “Yes, I did what I am accused of doing, and look forward to death at your hands. I offer no apologies, and given a chance, will repeat exactly what I did in the cause of Islam.” These are mind-numbing words, but for those the world sees as “terrorists” the reward of martyrdom and “72 perfumed paths with a virtual who’s who of terror- on the Afghanistan file, but Mr. Byman’s virgins waiting in heaven” – a description ism in Afghanistan. In tracing Mr. Khadr’s more important contribution may be his used by Canadian Ahmed Said Khadr to life there, the author reveals insights into chapter on “What is Victory?” persuade his children to join his cause – al-Qaeda’s early days. Reporting on the In the American context, he defines vic- the end justifies the means. Just as we see group’s first training camp set up by tory as: ourselves as victims of terrorism, terrorists Osama bin Laden in the late 1980s, for • keeping terror casualties to less than see themselves as victims of oppression instance, the author writes, “Recruits at 100 each year; and occupation by implacable foes led by al Farouk had to sign an oath of loyalty to • reducing fear of terror; the U.S. Seen in this light, the American bin Laden and, in return, they received a • counterterrorism at an acceptable invasion of Iraq can be regarded as feed- salary, a round-trip ticket home each year cost in dollars, lives and other policy ing terrorism rather than suppressing it. and even a month’s vacation.” Sounds priorities. Our book selections explore the theme almost like paid employment. While these metrics remain moving of terrorism – its provenance, what victory Ms. Shephard’s opening chapter chron- targets, they do suggest to readers that the for terrorists would mean, what victory icles the battle that led to Omar’s capture, U.S. and its allies in this campaign against by its opponents would mean, and most but here again it is difficult to say with any terrorism remain far removed from vic- importantly, why ordinary people, often certainty whether the boy was responsible tory. well-educated, convert to such a blood- for American deaths, the reason for his thirsty vocation. detention at Guantanamo. But, there’s no William R. Polk, Violent Politics: A History mistaking the author’s conclusion that the of Insurgency, Terrorism and Guerrilla War Michelle Shephard, Guantanamo’s Child, boy was “indoctrinated into his father’s from the American Revolution to Iraq, Wiley, 2008, 270 pages war.” Her reading is no different from Harper Collins, 2007, 273 pages This book by a reporter for the Toronto the one recently offered by the Canadian As the title suggests, this book by a vet- Star is a must-read on many levels. It pur- government that after six years in a forbid- eran academic and senior director of the ports to tell the story of a 15-year-old who ding island jail, Omar remains “salvage- W.P. Carey Foundation debunks the myth was captured by American soldiers in Af- able” and a “good kid.” that 9/11 marked some sort of zenith in ghanistan in July 2002. The author offers violence. Mr. Polk calls terrorism the “pol- a rather sympathetic account of this boy, Daniel Byman, The Five Front War: The itics of last resort” and shows it has been Omar Khadr, as she weaves a tapestry of Better Way to Fight Global Jihad, Wiley, practised over millennia, typically against family connections and travels. Ultimately 2008, 304 pages intruding foreigners. Using a grenade as a they emerge as Canada’s “al-Qaeda fam- The director of the Security Studies leitmotif at the beginning of each chapter ily.” Despite her considerable effort, the Program at Georgetown University offers and on the cover, this former adviser to family’s patriarch remains a mystery to few new ideas, beyond the oft-repeated U.S. governments sees a common senti- Ms. Shephard, who attempts to trace his argument that terrorism cannot be de- ment among the terrorisms of the world. evolution from a not-too-religious Muslim feated by military means alone. The other “No matter how they differ in form, dura- to a radical who encouraged one of his four fronts, in his words, are the war of tion, and intensity, a single thread runs sons to become a suicide bomber. ideas, intelligence, homeland defence and through them all: opposition to foreigners. As Ahmed Said Khadr journeyed democratic reform. This may be useful ad- This propensity to protect the home com- through his radicalization, he crossed vice for Canadian policymakers working munity arises because all human beings

diplomat and international canada 29 DELIGHTS|Books

Apartment living made easy vertica.ca s e t v n

l a i E ec

Sp are territorial.” The author takes issue with the idea that “nation building” is a realistic ex-

a pectation. Of the 200 military expeditions the U.S. has launched since its founding, 16 were intended either for nation build- ental.c ing or the more modern phrase, “regime change.” Only two were definite successes – Germany and Japan – while two others – Grenada and Panama – were iffy. The

.partytimer rest failed utterly. These conclusions provoke questions

www about Canada’s own engagement in 613.745.9400 Afghanistan. Will we be perceived as an occupying force over time, and can Cana- dians realistically expect our troops and aid dollars to rebuild a broken nation? All three books make clear that the U.S. re- mains the main target – the “far enemy” in the words of al-Qaeda – but other nations do not get a free pass if they line up with the Americans. As with all questions relating to the subject of terrorism, there are no easy an- swers and sometimes no answers at all.

George Abraham is Diplomat’s contribut- ing editor.

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30 july—august 2008 WINE|DELIGHTS

Can you send the sommelier by with my curry?

hen we were growing up, we proach. Rieslings, with dish or are at least not austere alongside didn’t have wine-drinking their high acidity, bal- sweet plates the way a drier, crisper wine W guidelines (white with fish, red anced sweetness and will be. with red meat) for foods like Pad Thai, low alcohol, are a per- So, what is a Cabernet lover to do when Indian Butter Chicken or California Roll fect match. Drier whites confronted with these less traveled roads Sushi that are now fairly common in our are fine, but only with of culinary pairings? If you really need to Canadian culture. That’s probably because dishes that aren’t spicy drink that big, meaty red, try something such foods are only, in the past decade or or sweet. Red wines, if like a soft and juicy California Zinfandel so, reaching mainstream status. (The STEPHEN BECKTA soft, will taste reason- or smooth as silk version of Australian way I see it, if President’s Choice makes ably (good) with many Shiraz. While not the perfect dance part- a version, it’s mainstream.) So, without dishes. Remember that all reds will taste ner, they will not be offensive to many of the classic wine- and food-pairing rules – harder than they really are with spicy the dishes we are speaking about. Better think Claret with lamb, and Sancerre with food. Save your big reds for barbeque or yet, try taking that extra step out of Caber- oysters – what is one to do? What makes southern Mediterranean food. Wines that net-land and check out a great New World this even more difficult is that for many are high in alcohol and tannin are pretty Pinot Noir from California or Oregon that of these so-called “ethnic” foods, the indi- unpleasant with most Vietnamese dishes.” will offer a little more acidity but a little vidual culture does not have a wine-grow- Ironically, the Slated Door, a Vietnamese less weight and a ton of flavour. But then ing or even a wine-drinking culture to go restaurant, sells more Austrian wine than you could always just grab another cold along with it. There is a stronger tradition any other restaurant in the United States. one from the fridge with your new knowl- of drinking a Dos Equis with one’s burrito When dealing with particularly spicy edge and pride that you are cultured and or a Tsingtao beer with your General Tao’s or sweet dishes, the rule of thumb is to sophisticated in your worldly food and chicken than a fine Burgundy with either. compare (sweet flavours) or contrast beverage pairings. So at this point, it might feel like we are (spicy flavours) with off-dry wines such Cheers! making up rules as we go along. as a Gewurztraminer or a richer Pinot Gris Beer, ironically, might be the place to that has lower acidity. They either provide Stephen Beckta is owner and sommelier start when thinking about matching wine some relief from the heat of the spice in a of Beckta dining & wine. with food from these types of cuisines. Most beer in the world tends to be lighter in style, lower in alcohol, higher in acidity, possessing some carbonation and is re- freshing to the palate. It’s also chilled. All these things are good when dealing with foods that tend to be predominately sweet, sour or spicy in flavour. You want a wine that cleans your palate and has you going back for another bite. Wines that share these beer-like qualities include: Cham- pagne or sparkling wine, Riesling, Aus- trian Gruner Veltliner, Loire Valley whites such as Sancerre or Vouvray, New World Sauvignon Blanc (from Niagara, California or New Zealand for instance), or a Spanish Albarino, just to name a few. They all tend to have fresh acidity and very little or no oak-ageing, which can conflict with many T o r e n t : exotic flavours and spices. S p e c tacular modern hou s e on rolling acre, mat u r e t r e e s , The restaurant that I was most im- 1 0 m i n . t o d o w n t o w n . E x c l u s ive neighbourhood pressed with regarding wine and food pairing of exotic foods is the Slanted Door, Current embassy rental, avail. Aug. Unique high end property, surrounded by a Vietnamese restaurant in San Francisco. nature but rapid access to shopping, restaurants, Rothwell Heights. Hardwood Their perspective on pairing Vietnamese & slate throughout. Stainless appliances; soaking tub & walk-in closet Master + 2 foods with wine can be applied to many “ethnic” types of foods. This is a passage bedrm. Home office + wired house. In-law suite w. 2nd kitchen. 2 car garage. from their wine list: “You have to throw [email protected]; [email protected] traditional Mediterranean wine-pairing ideas out the window. Ingredients such For details / photos v i s i t w w w. h o u s e . i n fa c taafrica.com as nuoc mam (fish sauce), peanut sauce, and caramel sauces require a different ap-

diplomat and international canada 31 DELIGHTS|residences

A decidedly non-desert oasis

Israelis bidding shalom to home on McKay Lake By Margo Roston yanne Wilson D os: t ho p all

Israeli Ambassador Alan Baker and his wife, Dalia, will miss the great view of McKay Lake from their Rockcliffe residence when they return to Israel this fall.

sraeli Ambassador Alan Baker and his trip to the Sea of Galilee if she hopes to go Originally named Byng House in trib- wife, Dalia, will be leaving Ottawa in swimming at home. ute to Governor General Lord Byng whom Iearly September, after four years in “Because there’s a water shortage in Is- Col. Willis-O’Connor served as principal the capital . As much as they look forward rael, there’s not enough water to fill a pool aide-de-camp, the house was built on to retiring at home in Israel, they’ll miss for her,” says Mr. Baker. three levels to compensate for the shape the leisurely weekends and spectacular The residence is on a narrow, steep lot of the lot. According to Martha Edward’s scenery at their Rockcliffe residence. overlooking the lake and a small dock. De- book Rockcliffe Park, A History of the Village, The ambassador and his wife, along signed in 1934 by American architect John sand to build up the beach area was trans- with son, Assaf, enjoy lolling on their pa- Ames for Col. Henry Willis-O’Connor on ported across the ice in winter from the tio on the shores of McKay Lake, rowing the east side of the charming little lake, nearby sandpits by horse and sleigh. their little boat in the sunshine or swim- the design was inspired by Montreal’s Israel’s first ambassador to Canada, ming. So does their chocolate-coloured 18th-century Chateau de Ramezay, now an Michael Comay, was appointed in 1953, Labrador Nili, who will have to make a historic monument. and since the young country could ill af-

32 july—august 2008 DELIGHTS|residences

The Canadian Jewish Congress purchased this home, known as the Byng House, in 1954. The home is full of interesting accents.

The main reception room on the lower level is ac- Mr. and Mrs. Baker relax at home with their pooch, Nili. cessed by this elegant staircase. ford a new residence, the Canadian Jewish from antique to contemporary. rived at their Canadian post. The walls are Congress bought Byng House in 1954 and Gone are many of the donated and hung with dynamic prints and paintings presented it to the government of Israel. older pieces that filled the main reception by Israeli artists, and taking a prominent Its name was changed to Kinneret, after room on the lower level, which is accessed position is the couple’s collection of me- Lake Kinneret in the Galilee. by an elegant circular staircase. In their norahs – eight-branched candelabra – and With no money for furnishings, the place are sofas and chairs designed and other pieces of Judaeica. then ambassador’s wife went to Toronto to manufactured on a kibbutz. The large dining room with its original scour Salvation Army outlets for furniture, “We believe the house should reflect decorative doors leads out to an expansive writes their daughter Jill Stern in a recent Israel, so we asked (the government) to patio overlooking the lake, and along with article in The Ottawa Jewish Bulletin. send an interior decorator,” Mr. Baker the reception room, it can easily accommo- Times have changed and one of the first says. Cream, orange, red and blue are the date more than 100 guests. At such func- items on the Bakers' agenda when they ar- main colours used to represent the fall tions, the Bakers serve a combination of rived was to change the look of the house, foliage the couple saw when they first ar- Israeli specialties and favourites reflecting

diplomat and international canada 33 DELIGHTS|residences

Mrs. Baker’s Bulgarian background. “When we came, we were told we didn’t need to bring anything of our own to the house, but we did bring 50 cases of Israeli wine with us,” says the ambas- sador. “People thought of wine from Israel as sacramental, so we always serve good Israeli wine,” he says. The main floor provides informal fam- ily living space, with the ambassador’s den filled with personal pictures from former assignments. A large and comfort- able sitting room is a hangout for the fam- ily. The day we visited, Ottawa artist and teacher Morton Baslaw, a family friend, was settled in front of the window, taking in the view, easel and paint brush in hand. In a corner cabinet is Mrs. Baker’s collec- tion of carved wooden duck decoys, gifts from friends over the years. But the couple’s favourite place is a wicker-filled sunroom, an addition to the original house. Here’s where Mrs. Baker likes to sit and paint. “The lake is a special place, like a coun- try cottage,” she says. It’s a place she and her husband will always remember fondly. The Bakers will miss McKay Lake where they row their little boat and swim in the summer. Margo Roston is Diplomat's culture editor.

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34 july—august 2008 CANADIANA|DELIGHTS

Joshua Slocum’s Excellent Adventure

Laura Neilson Bonikowsky

ova Scotian Joshua Slocum, ad- that sent her sail- hausted, Slocum spread the tacks across venturer and master mariner, ing backwards. the deck, “commercial end” up, knowing Nsailed from Boston on April 24, Through moun- that “one cannot step on a tack without 1895. He returned June 27, 1898, the first tainous seas, the saying something about it.” When the to sail alone around the world. He re- ship was blown Fuegians attempted to board around mid- counted his voyage in Sailing Alone Around along the southern night, there was indeed “a deal of free lan- the World (1900). coast of Tierra del Fuego. Slocum had no guage over it.” “Charmed…from the first” by “the choice but to continue eastward, retrace Through powerful gales and encoun- wonderful sea,” Slocum had sailed on his course, and cross the Strait of Magel- ters with all manner of mariners, coastal many ships, commanding several. In lan again. people and dignitaries, the little boat and 1892, at loose ends, he pondered his op- On his second approach, he met Fue- her indomitable skipper “reeled off the tions. Commands were few; shipyard gian renegades calling out “yammer- miles….during an absence of three years work required a steep association fee. An schooner,” an invitation to “converse.” and two months.” Slocum’s memoir is old acquaintance solved his dilemma by Forewarned, especially about their leader chockablock with amusing anecdotes and offering a boat, a nearly derelict sloop. Black Pedro, Slocum knew better than to wry commentary. His telling of it is a de- The Spray, people said, had been built “in allow them to draw near. He drove them light to mariners and landlubbers alike. the year 1.” As Slocum refitted her, there off by firing across the bows of their ca- were “many inspectors to back [him] with noes. For several days they approached Laura Neilson Bonikowsky is the Associ- advice.” He ignored their pithy observa- the sloop again and again. Finally, ex- ate editor of The Canadian Encyclopedia. tions, having found a new love in the de- crepit craft. Finally, Slocum put to sea, intending to sail to Gibraltar, across the Mediterra- nean, through the Suez Canal, down the Red Sea and east around the world. At Gibraltar, British naval officers persuaded him to change course because of pirates on the Mediterranean. Reasoning that one could circumnavigate the globe in two di- rections, Slocum turned about, and was soon accosted by pirates. A rogue wave swamped the pirates’ boat and Slocum fled. Off the coast of Uruguay, having hugged the shore too closely, the Spray ran aground. Slocum “laid out” the an- chor in his frail lifeboat, but it proved too great a load. After several attempts, the dory, filled to the gunwale with water, began sinking. Slocum managed to throw the anchor clear and grasp the gunwale as the boat overturned, for he “suddenly remembered that [he] could not swim.” He barely made the beach, exhausted and half-drowned. The coast guard ar- rived and in a happy turn of events, lo- cals traded him butter, milk and eggs for ship’s biscuits. Throughout his journey, Slocum traded h slocum for supplies. One such exchange with p ral “a good Austrian of large experience” f s o yielded him a bag of carpet tacks that t limen proved to have “more value than gold.” p As Slocum rounded the tip of South com America, the Spray ran straight into a gale Joshua Slocum, adventure and master mariner.

diplomat and international canada 35 DELIGHTS|ENTERTAINING

Don’t forget the garnish

hen I’m developing a new the jar, close the top of to a plate. Swirls, dots, zig-zags or more recipe, there is always one the bag with an elastic complex maneuvers, all generate a note of W final step in the process – and band and cut only a appreciation from the diners. I think it separates me from my fellow smidgen off one of the However, decorative details can add cookbook authors. In my culinary phi- bottom corners. Voilà, more than pizzazz. My garnishes and losophy, presentation plays a critical role. you have a perfect pip- final touches are also there to give extra A new recipe simply isn’t complete until ing bag. flavour, texture, colour and character to a I’ve plated it and decided on the final In my refrigerator, recipe/plate. My threads of fried vermi- Margaret garnish or decorative touches. This final Dickenson I have plenty of small celli bean noodles, chocolate curl sticks addition should not only compliment and containers with home- and sugar stenciled art fascinate guests. contribute to the overall flavour, it should made plastic piping bags (cut corner There is no mystery to many of my also act as a silent voice, enticing family “up”) bulging with caramel sauce, sieved favourite decorative ideas which in- and guests to savour what is before them. blackberry jam, and soya wasabi mayon- clude the strategic use of colourful salad It’s no surprise that well-garnished food naise. They’re all ready for action. Larger leaves, edible flowers, the criss-cross ar- tastes better. Who doesn’t eat with their commercial squeeze bottles hold my more rangement of two fresh chive stems or a eyes? If you present a stunning dish, you frequently used drizzles such as a vari- couple of tender-crisp spears of cooked raise guests’ expectations before they ety of flavoured mayonnaises, Balsamic asparagus. taste a single morsel. With clever presen- Red Wine Drizzle, Honey Mustard Herb Frosting rims of glasses, frosting fruits tations and garnishes, even otherwise Vinaigrette and Mustard Mint Sauce. with edible skins (e.g, grapes, currants), quite ordinary creations reach new culi- (Remember to label them.) Drizzling is a even rose petals or fresh violets, is an- nary levels. Excellent cuisine, meanwhile, simple and effective way of adding class other simple decorative technique. Brush becomes extraordinary. To ensure guaranteed results, I always take a few minutes to ponder and to in- clude a dash of decorative pizzazz, either on the food or plate or both. Sprigs of fresh herbs are the favourite faithful soldiers in the long tradition of garnishes. But have you tried tying them into petit bouquets to be gracefully laid over food or chopping them into dust to be sprinkled on the rims of plates or bis- tro bowls? Enoki mushrooms, shoots of all kinds, longish stemmed edible flowers (violas, for example) all lend themselves to being arranged into attractive bouquets and tied with a fresh chive stem. And when it comes to a variety of versatile edible dusts, also think of crushed black pep- percorns, cocoa powder, instant coffee crystals and icing sugar. Without a doubt, drizzles have become the new darling of garnishes for the past 10 years with no sign of forfeiting their status as a culinary garnishing technique adored by everyone and accessible to anyone. If you don’t have a platoon (or at least a few) of those handy plastic squeeze bottles, use a small plastic bag. Just fit the bag in the mouth of a small empty jar of suitable size, wrap the top of the open ickenson plastic bag over the rim and down the D arry sides of the jar and add the drizzling ma- L terial (e.g., sauce, flavoured mayonnaise, Sweet and sour salmon in zucchini cups are jazzed up with fried vermicelli noodle straw. purée, etc.) Remove the filled bag from

36 july—august 2008 DELIGHTS|ENTERTAINING

the desired surface (or area) with lightly beaten egg white, sprinkle (as deemed ap- propriate) with salt, sugar, dried gelatin Besfobmjof!pg!epxoupxo/!Tfsfojuz!pg!b!tvjuf/ dessert powder and allow to dry (uncov- ered) in a cool dry place. Painting or writ- ing with melted chocolate or a sauce of ¦!!Epxoupxo!mpdbujpo-!dmptf!up!tipqt!'!buusbdujpot! ¦!!Tqbdjpvt!tvjuft!xjui!gvmm!ljudifot-!fotvjuf!mbvoesz! some kind, is also fun. If it doesn’t work, ¦!!Gjuoftt!dfousf!xjui!joepps!qppm-!fyfsdjtf!sppn! wipe off your “attempt” and try again. ¦!!Dpnqmjnfoubsz!35.ipvs!cvtjoftt!dfousf Guests recognize a special effort and ¦!!Gsff!mpdbm!dbmmt!'!xjsfmftt!ijhi.tqffe!Joufsofu the attention given to detail. Garnishes Jefbm!gps!tipsu!boe!mpoh!ufsn!tubzt" and those final decorative touches can be another indication of the warm hospital- ity being extended by the hosts. Please be inspired to try my tempting Sftfswf!po.mjof;!xxx/mft.tvjuft/dpn!!0!!!241!Cfttfsfs!Tusffu!¦!724.343.3111!¦!2.911.378.2:9:!!! fried vermicelli noodle straw, shown in the picture at left, dressing up sweet and sour salmon in zucchini cups. Good luck.

Margaret Dickenson is author of the international award-winning cookbook Margaret’s Table – Easy Cooking & Inspir- ing Entertaining and is creator and host of Margaret’s Entertaining Minutes on Rogers TV. See www.margaretstable.com for more. EXPERIENCE L'ART DE VIVRE Fried vermicelli noodle straw Makes about 5 cups (1.25 litres)

Fried vermicelli noodles offer the play- www.signaturesrestaurant.com ful experience of crunching on inflated 453 LAURIER AVENUE EAST strings of air. It is a decorative trick/gar- 613.236.2499 nish that can add creativity and fun to many recipes from hors d’oeuvres to dessert. 1 oz (30 g) vermicelli bean* noodles, un- cooked Oil for deep frying Salt (optional)

1. Using a deep-fryer, heat oil to 350 °F or 180 °C. Place noodles in small quantities (4 or 5 batches)** in frying basket. Care- fully lower basket into hot oil and fry noodles for a matter of seconds, turning once with a fork. 2. Drain noodle “straw” well (over oil) before transferring to a paper towel-lined tray; salt if desired. 3. If you’re not using fried noodle straw immediately, place in a paper-towel lined plastic container, cover loosely with a paper towel and store in a cool, dry place for up to several weeks. *Bean vermicelli noodles produce a “puffy” white straw. If a golden coloured, fine and more delicate straw is preferred, use rice vermicelli noodles. (Note: The volume will be slightly less.) ** Be cautious as the noodles will imme- diately inflate into a voluminous mass (particularly the bean vermicelli).

diplomat and international canada 37 DIGNITARIES|NEW ARRIVALS

New Heads of Mission

Lijun Lan Trinidad and Tobago. He has also served as Ambassador of China alternative representative to the United Na- tions in New York and minister-counsellor at the embassy in Washington. At the same time, he was chargé d’affaires of the perma- nent mission to the Organization of Eastern Caribbean States. Mr. Alfaro was a member of the “support group” of government commission that ne- gotiated the peace accords which ended more than 15 years of internal conflict. He has a master’s in public administra- tion and bachelor degrees in political sci- ence and fine arts. Gifts for All For Mr. Lijun, the posting in Canada marks Occasions a return. The career diplomat served as con- Francois Delattre Ambassador of France For complete stress-free sul at the consulate general in Vancouver shopping, consider a gift from 1985 to 1989. certificate. Mr. Lijun joined the foreign service in 20% off esthethic services 1976. A year later, he was posted to Trini- Tuesdays and Wednesdays dad and Tobago as an attaché and then served as third secretary at headquarters Free infrared sauna with on the North American and Oceanic affairs all RMT massages file. As first secretary, he worked in the de- 373 St. Laurent Blvd 613-746-3500 partment of Latin American and Caribbean www.celadonspa.ca Affairs and was then posted, between 1992 and 1996, as consul at the consulate general HAIR • SKIN • BODY • NAILS in Los Angeles. He then returned to the de- partment of North American and Oceanic affairs as deputy director-general before Before being posted as ambassador in Ot- being reposted, as consul general, to Los tawa, Mr. Delattre was the French em- Angeles between 2002 and 2006. For the fol- bassy’s consul general in New York. This lowing two years, he worked as a minister marked his second posting to the United in the Washington embassy and for the past States; the first was in Washington from four years, he’s been China’s ambassador 1998 to 2002, where he worked as head of to Indonesia. the press and information service. Prior to Mr. Lijun is married and has a daughter. that, Mr. Delattre was responsible for secu- rity and defence issues on the foreign pol- Rafael Alfaro icy team of President Jacques Chirac (from Ambassador of El Salvador 1995 to 1998.) A career diplomat, Mr. Delattre joined the ministry of foreign affairs in 1989. He has served in Bonn, and with the foreign ministry’s department of strategic affairs and disarmament. He also served as an ad- visor to the foreign minister from 1993 to 1995. Mr. Delattre has a degree in international law and is a graduate of the Institute of Political Studies in Paris and the National School of Administration (ENA). He is mar- ried to Sophie L’Hélias-Delattre, and they Though he’s only 47, Mr. Alfaro has already have two children. had an illustrious career. At the age of 32, he was appointed deputy foreign minister Camille Rosemarie Robinson-Regis of El Salvador by president Afredo Cris- High Commissioner for Trinidad and Tobago tiani. He later became deputy minister of Ms. Robinson-Regis comes to diplomacy transport. from politics. Most recently, she served Mr. Alfaro has served as ambassador as minister of planning and development to Ecuador, Venezuela, Israel, Guyana and (from 2003 until November 2007). She was

38 july—august 2008 NEW ARRIVALS | DIGNITARIES

Non-Heads of Mission

Brazil Iraq Peru Stefan Egon Gracza Lutfi Hameed Joudah Edgardo Ingemar Narro Defence & Air Attaché Assistant Attaché Kristen Defence Attaché Burundi Israel Justine Semonde Benjamin Gantz, Saudi Arabia Second Counsellor Defence & Armed Forces Faisal Mohammad A. Attaché Abaalkhail Chad Attaché Hamid Takane Youssouf Japan also governor of both the Inter-American First Counsellor Koji Tamura United States Of America Development Bank and the Caribbean De- Second Secretary Theresa Cardinal Brown velopment Bank and served as a member of Chile Attaché parliament. She was re-elected in four gen- Javier Andres Becker Libya eral elections as a member of the People’s Marshall Salem Kh. M. Elkardasi Mary Lynne Mischke National Movement. Minister-Counsellor Counsellor Attaché Ms. Robinson-Regis was appointed a People’s National Movement Senator in France Mexico 1991 and served concurrently as minis- Olivier Deparis Jesus Enrique Escamilla ter of consumer affairs until 1995. She was First Counsellor Nunez minister of legal affairs for a year beginning Minister in 2002 and was minister of state with the Indonesia prime minister’s office and the ministry of Nancy Kusbayanti Zainuri Norway planning and development. Counsellor Berit Johne A lawyer by profession, she completed Counsellor her law degree in Barbados. She is mar- ried to Fritz Hudson Regis and has three daughters.

diplomat and international canada 39 DELIGHTS|envoy’s album

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3. THIS PAGE 1. The Tulip Ball took place May 10 under a spectacular mirror tent brought to Ottawa from Belgium. U.S. Ambassador David Wilkins and his wife Susan took in the ball. • 2. Also spotted under the mirror tent were (left) Ana Melba Rosairo de Nunez, wife of Dominican Republic Ambas- sador Luis Eladio Arias Nunez, and Rudy Lamoureux. (Photos: Dyanne Wilson) • 3. A Norwegian National Day event was held at the field house at New Edinburgh Park and featured a traditional flag-waving parade led by children and a brass band. Shown are Norwegian artist May Evelyn Hansen and her daughter Maia Gill. (Photo: Bob Diotte) • 4. The Embassy of Israel held a Holocaust Remem- brance Day event on Parliament Hill May 1. Ambassador Alan Baker addressed the guests. • 5. The Canadian Federation of University Women’s diplomatic hospitality group hosted a visit to The Herb Garden in Almonte May 23. From left: Darlene Page, member of the diplomatic hospitality group, Ulfah Hanif Hardono, wife of Indonesian Ambassador Djoko Hardono and Louise Brzustowski, former president of the diplomatic hospitality group. (Photo: Ulle Baum)

40 july—august 2008 envoy’s album|DELIGHTS

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THIS PAGE 1. David Tawei Lee, representative of the Taipei Economic and Cultural Office in Canada, hosted a reception May 27 at the Rideau Club to mark the success of the recent elections in Taiwan. From left: MP Larry Miller, Mr. Lee, MP Jim Abbott, chairman of the Canada-Taiwan Parliamentary Friendship Group, and MP Rob Anders (Photo: George Wu) • 2. U.S. Ambassador David Wilkins hosted a reception at his residence May 5 to mark the 50th anniversary of NORAD (North American Aerospace Defense Command). Mr. Wilkins is shown with Defence Minister Peter MacKay (left). • 3. The Netherlands was, as always, front and centre at this year’s Tulip Festival. Sporting traditional dress is Marloes Nienhuis, daughter of Wendy Sewell, who works at the embassy, with Margaretha Louise Terlouw, wife of Netherlands Ambassador Karel de Beer. • 4. Mr. de Beer addresses the crowd on the occasion of the 70th birthday of Queen Beatrix at the Cartier Square Drill Hall April 30. 5. A choir performed at the Queen’s birthday celebration. (Photos: Netherlands embassy)

diplomat and international canada 41 AFGHANISTAN AUSTRIA BENIN BURUNDI His Ex. Omar Samad His Ex. Otto Ditz His Ex. Honoré Ahimakin Her Ex. Appolonie Simbizi Embassy of the Islamic Republic of Embassy of the Republic of Austria Embassy of the Republic of Benin Embassy of the Republic of Burundi Afghanistan 445 Wilbrod Street 58 Glebe Avenue 325 Dalhousie Street, Suite 815 240 Argyle Street Ottawa, Ontario K1N 6M7 Ottawa, Ontario K1S 2C3 Ottawa, Ontario K1N 7G2 Ottawa, Ontario K2P 1B9 TEL 789-1444 FAX 789-3431 TEL 233-4429 FAX 233-8952 TEL 789-0414 FAX 789-9537 TEL 563-4223 FAX 563-4962 [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] http://ambabucanada.le-site.info

c ts con ta www.afghanemb-canada.net AZERBAIJAN BOLIVIA Mr. Farid Shafiyev His Ex. Edgar Torrez Mosqueira CAMEROON ALBANIA Chargé d’Affaires Embassy of the Republic of Bolivia Mr. Martin Agbor Mbeng His Ex. Besnik Konci Embassy of the Republic of Azerbaijan 130 Albert Street, Suite 416 Acting High Commissioner Embassy of the Republic of Albania 275 Slater Street, Suite 904-C Ottawa, Ontario K1P 5G4 High Commission for the Republic 130 Albert Street, Suite 302 Ottawa, Ontario K1P 5H9 TEL 236-5730 FAX 236-8237 of Cameroon Ottawa, Ontario K1P 5G4 TEL 288-0497 FAX 230-8089 [email protected] 170 Clemow Avenue TEL 236-4114 FAX 236-0804 Ottawa, Ontario K1S 2B4 [email protected] BAHAMAS BOSNIA-HERZEGOVINA TEL 236-1522 FAX 236-3885 His Ex. Michael D. Smith His Ex. Milenko Misic ALGERIA High Commission for The Embassy of Bosnia and Herzegovina CHILE His Ex. Smail Benamara Commonwealth of The Bahamas 130 Albert Street, Suite 805 His Ex. Eugenio Ortega Riquelme Embassy of the People’s Democratic 50 O’Connor Street, Suite 1313 Ottawa, Ontario K1P 5G4 Embassy of the Republic of Chile Republic of Algeria Ottawa, Ontario K1P 6L2 TEL 236-0028 FAX 236-1139 50 O’Connor Street, Suite 1413 500 Wilbrod Street TEL. 232-1724 FAX 232-0097 [email protected] Ottawa, Ontario K1P 6L2 Ottawa, Ontario K1N 6N2 [email protected] www.bhembassy.ca TEL 235-9940 FAX 235-1176 TEL 789-8505 FAX 789-1406 [email protected] diplomatic www.embassyalgeria.ca/eng.htm BANGLADESH BRAZIL www.chile.ca His Ex. A.M. Yakub Ali His Ex. Paulo Cordeiro Pinto ANGOLA High Commission for the People’s Embassy of the Federative Republic CHINA His Ex. Miguel Maria N. Puna Republic of Bangladesh of Brazil His Ex. Lijun Lan Embassy of the Republic of Angola 275 Bank Street, Suite 302 450 Wilbrod Street Embassy of the People’s Republic 189 Laurier Avenue East Ottawa, Ontario K2P 2L6 Ottawa, Ontario K1N 6M8 of China Ottawa, Ontario K1N 6P1 TEL 236-0138 FAX 567-3213 TEL 237-1090 FAX 237-6144 515 St. Patrick Street TEL 234-1152 FAX 234-1179 [email protected] [email protected] Ottawa, Ontario K1N 5H3 [email protected] www.bdhc.org TEL. 789-3434 FAX 789-1911 www.embangola-can.org BRUNEI DARUSSALAM www.chinaembassycanada.org BARBADOS Her Ex. Rakiah Haji Abdul Lamit ARGENTINA His Ex. Glyne Samuel Murray 395 Laurier Avenue East COLOMBIA His Ex. Arturo Bothamley High Commission for Barbados Ottawa, Ontario K1N 6R4 His Ex. Jaime Giron-Duarte Embassy of the Argentine Republic 55 Metcalfe St., Suite 470 TEL 234-5656 FAX 234-4397 Embassy of the Republic of Colombia 81 Metcalfe Street 7th Floor Ottawa, Ontario, K1P 6L5 [email protected] 360 Albert Street, Suite 1002 Ottawa, Ontario K1P 6K7 TEL 236-9517 FAX 230-4362 Ottawa, Ontario K1R 7X7 TEL 236-2351 FAX 235-2659 [email protected] BULGARIA TEL 230-3760 FAX 230-4416 [email protected] His Ex. Evgueni Stoytchev [email protected] www.argentina-canada.net BELARUS Embassy of the Republic of Bulgaria www.embajadacolombia.ca Mr. Pavel Pustovoy 325 Stewart Street ARMENIA Chargé d’Affaires Ottawa, Ontario K1N 6K5 CONGO (ZAIRE) Mr. Arman Akopian Embassy of the Republic of Belarus TEL 789-3215 FAX 789-3524 Ms. Louise Nzanga Ramazani Chargé d’Affaires 130 Albert Street, Suite 600 Chargé d’Affaires Embassy of the Republic of Armenia Ottawa, Ontario K1P 5G4 BURKINA FASO Embassy of the Democratic Republic 7 Delaware Avenue TEL 233-9994 FAX 233-8500 Her Ex. Juliette Bonkoungou of the Congo Ottawa, Ontario K2P 0Z2 [email protected] Embassy of Burkina Faso 18 Range Road TEL 234-3710 FAX 234-3444 48 Range Road Ottawa, Ontario K1N 8J3 [email protected] BELGIUM Ottawa, Ontario K1N 8J4 TEL 230-6391 FAX 230-1945 www.armembassycanada.ca His Ex. Jean Lint TEL 238-4796 FAX 238-3812 Embassy of Belgium [email protected] COSTA RICA AUSTRALIA 360 Albert Street, Suite 820 www.ambaburkina-canada.org Her Ex. Emilia Maria Alvarez His Ex. William Fisher Ottawa, Ontario K1R 7X7 Navarro Australian High Commission TEL 236-7267 FAX 236-7882 Embassy of the Republic of Costa Rica 50 O’Connor, Suite 710 [email protected] 325 Dalhousie Street, Suite 407 Ottawa, Ontario K1P 6L2 www.diplomatie.be/ottawa Ottawa, Ontario K1N 7G2 TEL 236-0841 FAX 236-4376 TEL. 562-2855 FAX 562-2582 www.canada.embassy.gov.au [email protected] www.costaricaembassy.com ­

42 | EMBASSIES | HIGH COMMISSIONS ‑ | OTHER INTERNATIONAL REPRESENTATIVES july—august 2008 CÔTE D’IVOIRE Eritrea GREECE INDIA His Ex. Louis Leon Boguy Bony His Ex. Ahferom Berhane His. Ex. Nikolaos Matsis His Ex. Rajamani Lakshmi Narayan Embassy of the Republic of Embassy of the State of Eritrea Embassy of the Hellenic Republic High Commission for the Republic Côte d’Ivoire 75 Albert Street, Suite 610 80 MacLaren Street, Suite 76 of India 9 Marlborough Avenue Ottawa, Ontario K1P 5E7 Ottawa, Ontario K2P 0K6 10 Springfield Road Ottawa, Ontario K1N 8E6 TEL. 234-3989 FAX 234-6213 TEL. 238-6271 FAX 238-5676 Ottawa, Ontario K1M 1C9 TEL. 236-9919 FAX 563-8287 [email protected] TEL. 744-3751 FAX 744-0913 [email protected] ESTONIA www.greekembassy.ca [email protected] www.ambaci-ottawa.org Rasmus Lumi www.hciottawa.ca c ts con ta Chargé d’Affaires GUATEMALA CROATIA Embassy of the Republic of Estonia His Ex. Manuel Estuardo Roldán INDONESIA Her Ex. Vesela Mrden Kora´c 260 Dalhousie Street, Suite 210 Embassy of the Republic of His Ex. Djoko Hardono Embassy of the Republic of Croatia Ottawa, Ontario K1N 7E4 Guatemala Embassy of the Republic of 229 Chapel Street TEL. 789-4222 FAX 789-9555 130 Albert Street, Suite 1010 Indonesia Ottawa, Ontario K1N 7Y6 [email protected] Ottawa, Ontario K1P 5G4 55 Parkdale Avenue TEL. 562-7820 FAX 562-7821 www.estemb.ca TEL. 233-7237 FAX 233-0135 Ottawa, Ontario K1Y 1E5 [email protected] [email protected] TEL. 724-1100 FAX 724-1105 www.croatiaemb.net ETHIOPIA www.embaguate-canada.com [email protected] His Ex. Getachew Hailemariam www.indonesia-ottawa.org CUBA Embassy of the Federal Democratic GUINEA His Ex. Ernesto Antonio Senti Republic of Ethiopia Mrs. Hawa Diakité IRAN Embassy of the Republic of Cuba 151 Slater Street, Suite 210 Counsellor & Chargé d’Affaires Seyed Mahdi Mohebi 388 Main Street Ottawa, Ontario K1P 5H3 Embassy of the Republic of Guinea Chargé d’Affaires Ottawa, Ontario K1S 1E3 TEL. 235-6637 FAX 235-4638 483 Wilbrod Street Embassy of the Islamic TEL. 563-0141 FAX 563-0068 [email protected] Ottawa, Ontario K1N 6N1 Republic of Iran [email protected] www.ethiopia.ottawa.on.ca TEL. 789-8444 FAX 789-7560 245 Metcalfe Street diplomatic www.embacuba.ca [email protected] Ottawa, Ontario K2P 2K2 EUROPEAN UNION TEL. 235-4726 FAX 232-5712 CZECH REPUBLIC His. Ex. Dorian Prince GUYANA [email protected] Embassy of the Czech Republic Delegation of the European His Ex. Rajnarine Singh www.salamiran.org 251 Cooper Street Commission to Canada High Commission for the Republic Ottawa, Ontario K2P 0G2 45 O’Connor Street, Suite 1900 of Guyana IRAQ TEL. 562-3875 FAX 562-3878 Ottawa, Ontario K1P 1A4 151 Slater Street, Suite 309 His Ex. Howar M. Ziad [email protected] TEL. 238-6464 FAX 238-5191 Ottawa, Ontario K1P 5H3 Embassy of the Republic of Iraq [email protected] TEL. 235-7249 FAX 235-1447 215 McLeod Street DENMARK www.delcan.ec.europa.eu Ottawa, Ontario K2P 0Z8 His Ex. Poul Erik Dam Kristensen HAITI TEL. 236-9177 FAX 236-9641 Royal Danish Embassy FINLAND Ms. Marie Nathalie Menos-Gissel [email protected] 47 Clarence Street, Suite 450 His Ex. Pasi Mikael Patokallio Chargé d’Affaires www.iraqembassy.ca Ottawa, Ontario K1N 9K1 Embassy of the Republic of Finland Embassy of the Republic of Haiti TEL. 562-1811 FAX 562-1812 55 Metcalfe Street, Suite 850 130 Albert Street, Suite 1500 IRELAND [email protected] Ottawa, Ontario K1P 6L5 Ottawa, Ontario K1P 5G4 His Ex. Declan Kelly www.ambottawa.um.dk TEL. 288-2233 FAX 288-2244 TEL. 238-1628 FAX 238-2986 Embassy of Ireland [email protected] [email protected] 130 Albert Street, Suite 1105 DOMINICAN REPUBLIC Ottawa, Ontario K1P 5G4 His Ex. Luis Eladio Arias Nunez FRANCE HOLY SEE TEL. 233-6281 FAX 233-5835 Ambassador His Ex. Francois Delattre His Ex. The Most Rev. Luigi Ventura [email protected] Embassy of the Dominican Republic Embassy of France Apostolic Nunciature www.embassyofireland.ca 130 Albert Street, Suite 418 42 Sussex Drive 724 Manor Avenue Ottawa, Ontario K1P 5G4 Ottawa, Ontario K1M 2C9 Ottawa, Ontario K1M 0E3 ISRAEL TEL. 569-9893 FAX 569-8673 TEL. 789-1795 FAX 562-3735 TEL. 746-4914 FAX 746-4786 His Ex. Alan Baker www.drembassy.org www.ambafrance-ca.org Embassy of Israel HONDURAS 50 O’Connor Street, Suite 1005 ECUADOR GABON Her Ex. Beatriz Valle Ottawa, Ontario K1P 6L2 Mr. Oscar Felipe Izquierdo Arboleda His Ex. Joseph Obiang Ndoutoume Embassy of the Republic of TEL. 567-6450 FAX 567-9878 Chargé d’Affaires Embassy of the Gabonese Republic Honduras [email protected] Embassy of the Republic of Ecuador 4 Range Road, P.O. Box 368 151 Slater Street, Suite 805 www.embassyofIsreal.ca 50 O’Connor Street, Suite 316 Ottawa, Ontario K1N 8J5 Ottawa, Ontario K1P 5H3 Ottawa, Ontario K1P 6L2 TEL. 232-5301 FAX 232-6916 TEL. 233-8900 FAX 232-0193 ITALY TEL. 563-4286 FAX 235-5776 [email protected] His Ex. Gabriele Sardo HUNGARY Embassy of the Italian Republic EGYPT GERMANY His Ex. Pál Vastagh 275 Slater Street, 21st Floor Mrs. Hala Samir El Bishlawy His Ex. Matthias Martin Höpfner Embassy of the Republic of Ottawa, Ontario K1P 5H9 Chargé d’Affaires Embassy of the Federal Republic of Hungary TEL. 232-2401 FAX 233-1484 Embassy of the Arab Republic of Egypt Germany 299 Waverley Street [email protected] 454 Laurier Avenue East 1 Waverley Street Ottawa, Ontario K2P 0V9 www.italyincanada.com Ottawa, Ontario K1N 6R3 Ottawa, Ontario K2P 0T8 TEL. 230-2717 FAX 230-7560 TEL. 234-4931 FAX 234-4398 TEL. 232-1101 FAX 594-9330 www.mfa.gov.hu/emb/ottawa JAMAICA [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] Her Ex. Evadne Coye www.mfa.gov.eg Jamaican High Commission GHANA ICELAND 275 Slater Street, Suite 800 EL SALVADOR Her Ex. Margaret Ivy Amoakohene His Ex. Markus Örn Antonsson Ottawa, Ontario K1P 5H9 His Ex. Rafael Alfaro High Commission for the Republic Embassy of Iceland TEL. 233-9311 FAX 233-0611 Embassy of the Republic of El Salvador of Ghana 360 Albert Street, Suite 710 [email protected] 209 Kent Street 153 Gilmour Street Ottawa, Ontario K1R 7X7 Ottawa, Ontario K2P 1Z8 Ottawa, Ontario K2P 0N8 TEL. 482-1944 FAX 482-1945 JAPAN TEL. 238-2939 FAX 238-6940 TEL. 236-0871 FAX 236-0874 [email protected] His Ex. Tsuneo Nishida [email protected] [email protected] Embassy of Japan www.ghc-ca.com 255 Sussex Drive Ottawa, Ontario K1N 9E6 TEL. 241-8541 FAX 241-2232 [email protected] www.ca.emb-japan.go.jp

diplomat and international canada | EMBASSIES | HIGH COMMISSIONS ‑ | OTHER INTERNATIONAL REPRESENTATIVES 43 diplomatic contacts TEL. 234-3882 FAX234-3882 TEL. 233-1852 5G4 K1P Ontario Ottawa, 1006 Suite Street,130 Albert Macedonia of Republic the of Embassy Nasev Sasko Ex. His OF) (REPUBLIC MACEDONIA FAX567-5458 TEL. 567-5315 5G4 K1P Ontario Ottawa, 204 Suite Street,130 Albert Lithuania of Republic the of Embassy Damusis Ginte Ex. Her LITHUANIA [email protected] FAX230-0919 TEL. 230-0683 6K7 K1P Ontario Ottawa, 1000 Suite Street, Metcalfe 81 Jamahiriya Libyan Arab People’s Socialist Great the of Embassy JarrudEx. Ahmed Ali His LIBYA Tel 5G4 K1P ON Ottawa, 1820 Suite Street,130 Albert Lesotho of Kingdom the for Commission High Senyane Mots'eoa Ex. Her LESOTHO www.lebanonembassy.ca [email protected] FAX236-5825 TEL. 232-1609 3Z5 K1S Ontario Ottawa, Lyon640 Street Lebanon of Embassy d’AffairesChargé Mr.Maalouf Massoud LEBANON www.ottawa.mfa.gov.lv [email protected] FAX238-6014 TEL. 238-7044 7S8 K1R Ontario, Ottawa, 1200 Suite Street, Sparks 350 Latvia of Republic the of Embassy Mar Ex. His LATVIA FAX780-9999 TEL. 780-9905 1J9 K1N Ontario, Ottawa, Drive Sussex 333 Kuwait of State the of Embassy Rashed Musaed Ex. His KUWAIT www.emb-korea.ottawa.on.ca FAX244-5010 TEL. 244-5034 5A6 K1N Ontario Ottawa, Street Boteler 150 Korea of Republic the of Embassy Kim Soo-dong Ex. His REPUBLIC KOREA, www.kenyahighcommission.ca [email protected] FAX563-1773 TEL. 233-6599 6R4 K1N Ontario Ottawa, Laurier Avenue415 East Kenya of Republic the for Commission High Bahemuka Mbula Judith Ex. Her KENYA FAX238-8090 TEL. 232-3341 6G8 K1R Ontario Ottawa, Bronson 100 Avenue,701 Suite Jordan of Kingdom Hashemite the of Embassy Barto Nabil Ali Ex. His JORDAN 44 : 234-0770 : ` gers Krams gers F ax : 234-5665 : Al-Haroun | EMBASSIES

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HIGH 3 Raymond Street Raymond 3 Madagascar of Republic the of Embassy Horace Constant Simon Ex. His. MADAGASCAR TEL. 232-9990 TEL. 8J6 K1N Ontario Ottawa, 902 Suite Road, Range 85 Myanmar of Union the of Embassy d'AffairesChargé Mr.Maung Maung MYANMAR FAX236-7391 TEL. 236-6164 8J4 K1N Ontario Ottawa, Road Range 38 Morocco of Kingdom the of Embassy TangiMohamed Ex. His MOROCCO [email protected] FAX569-3830 TEL. 569-3916 5H3 K1P Ontario Ottawa, 503 Suite Street, Slater 151 Mongolia of Embassy Dugerjav Gotov Ex. His MONGOLIA www.embamexcan.com [email protected] FAX233-8988 TEL. 235-9123 1A4 K1P Ontario Ottawa, 1000 Suite Street, O’Connor 45 States Mexican United the of Embassy Goicoechea Jose Rafael Emilio Ex. His MEXICO www.ambamalicanada.org [email protected] FAX232-1501 TEL. 232-7429 8C8 K1N Ontario Ottawa, Goulburn Avenue50 Mali of Republic the of Embassy Diawara Bandiougou Mamadou Ex. His MALI [email protected] FAX241-5182 TEL. 241-5214 8Y7 K1N Ontario Ottawa, Street Boteler 60 Malaysia for Commission High Ignatius Dennis Ex. His MALAYSIA www.madagascar-embassy.ca [email protected] FAX567-0505 TEL: 567-2882 1A3 K1R Ontario Ottawa, www.nzembassy.com/home.cfm?c=38 [email protected] FAX238-5991 TEL. 238-5707 6G3 K1P Ontario Ottawa, 727 Suite Street, Bank 99 Commission High Zealand New Lackey Kate Ex. Her ZEALAND NEW [email protected] FAX237-5030 TEL. 237-6471 1A4 K1R Ontario Ottawa, 2020 Suite Street,350 Albert Netherlands the of Kingdom the of Embassy Ex. His NETHERLANDS [email protected]

COMMISSIONS Karel de Beer de Karel FAX 232-6999 ‑ |

OTHERINTERNATIONAL REPRESENTATIVES Caribbean States Caribbean Eastern of Organization the of Countries the for Commission High BrowneBrendon Ex. His STATES CARIBBEAN EASTERN O/OF www.emb-norway.ca [email protected] FAX238-6571 TEL. 238-2765 5B4 K1P Ontario Ottawa, 532 Suite Street, Sparks 90 Norway of Kingdom the of Embassy TorEx. Naess His Berntin NORWAY Tel.236-0529 Fax 236-0521 1R9 K2P Ontario Ottawa, Street Metcalfe 295 Nigeria of Republic Federal the for Commission High Commissioner High Acting Chinwuba Jacinte Akabogu- Ifeoma Mrs. NIGERIA FAX232-4291 TEL. 230-9808 8A3 K1N Ontario Ottawa, Blackburn Avenue38 Niger the of Republic the of Embassy Foumakoye Nana Aicha Ex. Her NIGER [email protected] FAX238-1777 TEL. 232-3062 5G4 K1P Ontario Ottawa, 1901 Suite Street,130 Albert Peru of Republic the of Embassy HisEx. Jorge Juan Castañeda Mendez PERU guay.ca consularsection@embassyofpara FAX567-1283 TEL. 567-1679 5H3 K1P Ontario Ottawa, 501 Suite Street, Slater 151 Paraguay of Republic the of Embassy E. Martinez AguirreJuan Ex. His PARAGUAY embassyof [email protected] FAX236-7177 TEL. 236-5775 5G4 K1P Ontario Ottawa, 300 Suite Street,130 Albert Panama of Republic the of Embassy González de Vásquez Romy Ex. Her PANAMA [email protected] FAX:736-0535 736-0053 TEL: 9W1 K1V Ontario Ottawa, Dr.,Club Country 45 Delegation General the of Head Mr. Amin Abou-Hassira PALESTINE [email protected] FAX238-7881 TEL. 238-7296 8J3 K1N Ontario Ottawa, Road Range 10 Pakistan of Republic Islamic the for Commission High Chohan Javed Musa Ex. His. PAKISTAN www.oecs.org/ottawa/index.html [email protected] FAX236-8952 TEL. 236-3042 5G4 K1P Ontario Ottawa, 700 Suite Street,130 Albert - http://ottawa.mae.ro [email protected] FAX789-3709 TEL. 789-4365 6A3 K1N Ontario Ottawa, Street Rideau 655 Romania of Embassy Stefoi Elena Ex. Her ROMANIA embportugal@embportugal/ottawa.orgFAX729-0883 TEL. 729-4236 0B8 K1Y Ontario Ottawa, Drive Park Island 645 Portugal of Embassy Carvalho Silveira Pedro Joao Ex. His PORTUGAL [email protected] FAX789-0468 TEL. 789-1218 6H3 K1N Ontario Ottawa, Daly Avenue443 Poland of Republic the of Embassy Ogrodzinski Piotr Ex. His POLAND [email protected] 233-1121TEL. FAX 233-4165 5G4 K1P Ontario Ottawa, 606 Suite Street,130 Albert Philippines the of Republic the of Embassy Brillantes S. Jose Ex. His PHILIPPINES Embassy of the Republic of Rwanda of Republic the of Embassy Mukabagwiza Edda Ex. Her RWANDA www.rusembcanada.mid.ru [email protected] FAX235-4341 TEL. 236-6342 8L5 K1N Ontario Ottawa, Street Charlotte 285 Federation Russian the of Embassy Mamedov Georgiy Ex. His RUSSIA www.serbianembassy.ca [email protected] FAX233-6289 TEL. 233-7850 8A2 K1N Ontario Ottawa, Blackburn Avenue17 Serbia of Republic the of Embassy Du˘sanEx. His T. Batakovi´c SERBIA [email protected] FAX238-6392 TEL. 238-2695 8E8 K1N Ontario Ottawa, Marlborough 57 Avenue Senegal of Republic the of Embassy Mbacke Issakha Excellency His SENEGAL Tel 1K6 K1N ON Ottawa, Drive Sussex 201 Saudi Arabia of Embassy Royal d’AffairesChargé Mr.Saleh A. Al Abdullah Awwad ARABIA SAUDI www.ambarwaottawa.ca [email protected] 569-5421/5423 : Fax 569-5420/22/24 Phone: 3V1 K1Y Ontario Ottawa, Drive Sherwood 121

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237-0567 august

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SLOVAK REPUBLIC SWEDEN TRINIDAD AND TOBAGO UNITED STATES OF AMERICA His Ex. Stanislav Opiela Her Ex. Ingrid Maria Iremark Her Ex. Camille Rosemarie His Ex. David Wilkins Embassy of the Slovak Republic Embassy of Sweden Robinson-Regis Embassy of the United States of 50 Rideau Terrace 377 Dalhousie Street High Commission for the Republic America Ottawa, Ontario K1M 2A1 Ottawa, Ontario K1N 9N8 of Trinidad and Tobago 490 Sussex Drive TEL. 749-4442 FAX 749-4989 TEL. 244-8200 FAX 241-2277 200 First Avenue, Third Level Ottawa, Ontario K1N 1G8 [email protected] [email protected] Ottawa, Ontario K1S 2G6 TEL. 238-5335 FAX 688-3088 www.ottawa.mfa.sk www.swedishembassy.ca TEL. 232-2418 FAX 232-4349 www.usembassycanada.gov [email protected] c ts con ta SLOVENIA SWITZERLAND URUGUAY Ex. Tomaz Kunstelj His Ex. Werner Baumann TUNISIA His Ex. Alväro M. Moerzinger Embassy of the Republic of Slovenia Embassy of Switzerland His Ex. Mouldi Sakri Embassy of the Oriental Republic of 150 Metcalfe Street, Suite 2200 5 Marlborough Avenue Embassy of the Republic of Tunisia Uruguay Ottawa, Ontario K1P 1P1 Ottawa, Ontario K1N 8E6 515 O’Connor Street 130 Albert Street, Suite 1905 TEL. 565-5781 FAX 565-5783 TEL. 235-1837 FAX 563-1394 Ottawa, Ontario K1S 3P8 Ottawa, Ontario K1P 5G4 [email protected] [email protected] TEL. 237-0330 FAX 237-7939 TEL. 234-2727 FAX 233-4670 [email protected] SOUTH AFRICA SYRIA VENEZUELA His Ex. Abraham Sokhaya Nkomo His Ex. Jamil Haidar Sakr TURKEY Jose Antonio Manlio Rodriguez de High Commission for the Republic Embassy of the Syrian Arab Republic His Ex. Rafet Akgünay la Sierra Llerandi of South Africa 151 Slater Street, Suite 1000 Embassy of the Republic of Turkey Chargé d’Affaires 15 Sussex Drive Ottawa, Ontario K1P 5H3 197 Wurtemburg Street Embassy of the Bolivarian Republic Ottawa, Ontario K1M 1M8 TEL. 569-5556 FAX 569-3800 Ottawa, Ontario K1N 8L9 of Venezuela TEL. 744-0330 FAX 741-1639 www.syrianembassy.ca TEL. 789-4044 FAX 789-3442 32 Range Road [email protected] [email protected] Ottawa, Ontario K1N 8J4 www.southafrica-canada.ca TAIPEI Economic & Cultural office TEL. 235-5151 FAX 235-3205 diplomatic David Tawei Lee, Representative UGANDA www.misionvenezuela.org SPAIN 45 O’Connor Street, Suite 1960 His Ex. George Marino Abola His Ex. Mariano Alonso-Burón Ottawa, Ontario K1P 1A4 High Commission for the Republic VIETNAM Embassy of the Kingdom of Spain TEL. 231-5080 FAX 231-7112 of Uganda His Excellency Duc Hung Nguyen 74 Stanley Avenue [email protected] 231 Cobourg Street Embassy of the Socialist Republic of Ottawa, Ontario K1M 1P4 Ottawa, Ontario K1N 8J2 Vietnam TEL. 747-2252 FAX 744-1224 TANZANIA TEL. 789-7797 FAX 789-8909 470 Wilbrod Street [email protected] His Ex. Peter Kallaghe [email protected] Ottawa, Ontario K1N 6M8 www.embaspain.ca High Commission for the United www.ugandahighcommission.ca TEL. 236-0772 FAX 236-2704 Republic of Tanzania SRI LANKA 50 Range Road UKRAINE YEMEN His Ex. W.J.S. Karunaratne Ottawa, Ontario K1N 8J4 His. Ex. Ihor Ostash His Ex. Abdulla Abdulwali Nasher High Commission for the TEL. 232-1509 FAX 232-5184 Embassy of Ukraine Embassy of the Republic of Yemen Democratic Socialist Republic [email protected] 310 Somerset Street, West, 54 Chamberlain Avenue of Sri Lanka www.tanzaniahighcommission.ca Ottawa, Ontario, K2P 0J9 Ottawa, Ontario K1S 1V9 333 Laurier Avenue West, Suite 1204 Tel. 230-2961 Fax 230-2400 TEL. 729-6627 FAX 729-8915 Ottawa, Ontario K1P 1C1 THAILAND www.ukremb.ca www.yemenincanada.ca TEL. 233-8449 FAX 238-8448 His Ex. Snanchart Devahastin www.srilankahcottawa.org The Royal Thai Embassy UNITED ARAB EMIRATES ZAMBIA 180 Island Park Drive His Ex. Hassan Al-Suwaidi His Ex. David Clifford Saviye SUDAN Ottawa, Ontario K1Y 0A2 Embassy of the United Arab Emirates High Commission for the Republic Her Ex. Dr. Faiza Hassan Taha TEL. 722-4444 FAX 722-6624 45 O’Connor Street, Suite 1800 of Zambia Armousa [email protected] Ottawa, Ontario K1P 1A4 151 Slater St., Suite 205 Embassy of the Republic of the Sudan TEL. 565-7272 FAX 565-8007 Ottawa, Ontario 354 Stewart Street TOGO [email protected] K1B 5H3 Ottawa, Ontario K1N 6K8 His Ex. Bawoumondom Amelete www.uae-embassy.com TEL. 232-4400 FAX 232-4410 TEL. 235-4000 FAX 235-6880 Embassy of the Togolese Republic 12 Range Road UNITED KINGDOM ZIMBABWE Ottawa, Ontario K1N 8J3 His Ex. Anthony Cary Her Ex. Florence Zano Chideya TEL. 238-5916 FAX 235-6425 British High Commission Embassy of the Republic of 80 Elgin Street Zimbabwe Ottawa, Ontario K1P 5K7 332 Somerset Street West TEL. 237-1530 FAX 237-7980 Ottawa, Ontario K2P 0J9 www.britainincanada.org TEL. 237-4388 FAX 563-8269                 

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46 july—august 2008 DESTINATIONS|THE LAST WORD ion t ional Tourism organiza t reek na G os: t ho p all The island of Rhodes offers a cosmopolitan atmosphere but there are also neolitihic sites, classical Greek architectural monuments and Byzantine churches.

Beyond the classic sites, Greece offers monastic adventures and a cosmopolitan time warp

By Nikolaos Matsis

he late British historian Steven Run- most touchy subjects such as politics, eth- considered as the greatest architectural ac- ciman once wrote that the beauty of ics and philosophy, as well as more trendy complishments of classical Greece. TGreece lies mainly in contrast. The subjects such as fashion and sports. Every traveler has his or her favourite contrast between stark promontories and Hundreds of cafés, restaurants, taver- places. My favourite places are two and blue sea-gulfs, between barren mountain nas and bars, open-air most of the year, they are in sharp contrast to each other: sides and fertile valleys and white-washed are interspersed all over the city, and are The serene Holy Mountain, or Mount houses in sun-drenched rocky islands. bursting with life. At the same time, visit- Athos in the northern Greek province of From the mystic mountains of Mace- ing the Greek capital is like stepping into Macedonia and the cosmopolitan and bris- donia and Epirus to the golden beaches history. The Unification of Archeological tling with life beautiful island of Rhodes in of the Cyclades and the Dodecanese Sites walkway is one of the best things the southeastern Dodecanese Islands. islands; from the rustic foods of Crete to that happened to Athens in recent decades the eternal beauty of world-renowned together with the highly successful 2004 The Holy Mountain monuments such as the Acropolis, Greece Olympic Games. About four kilometers Mount Athos or Agion Oros, as it is locally offers all visitors unique destinations and long, it connects the city’s most important known, is the oldest surviving monastic cultural experiences and a very special joie historical sites and is lined with chapels, community in the world. It dates back to de vivre. neo-Classical homes and cafés. For 12 eu- more than 1,000 years, to Byzantine times. A good place to start is, of course, ros one can visit the Acropolis, the Ancient It is a unique monastic republic, and, Athens, capital of modern Greece and Agora, the Theatre of Dionysos, the Kera- although a part of Greece, it is governed springboard to a multitude of interesting meikos Cemetery, the Temple of the Olym- by its own administration. It occupies the destinations that can be reached by air, sea, pian Zeus and the Roman Agora, while Athos peninsula in Halkidiki. road and rail. Universally acclaimed as the later this year the New Acropolis Museum Because of its isolation, Mount Athos birthplace of democracy, Athens is today will open at the foot of the ancient hill. has remained one of the most unspoiled a bristling metropolis of about four mil- Built in the 5th century B.C., the Acrop- parts of Greece. The landscape is stunning lion people who are still passionate, as in olis temples – the Parthenon, Temple and wild, with small green valleys and ancient times, about debating humanity’s of Athena Nike and Erechtheum – are gorges, well-wooded peaks interspersed

diplomat and international canada 47 DESTINATIONS | THE LAST WORD

Mount Athos is the oldest surviving monastic community in the world. with precipitous ravines and inaccessible from the troubles of the outside world or Mount Athos is simply one of the most coastline. Here and there in this wilder- those who are on a pilgrimage. Food and beautiful places on earth, more like a fan- ness are the fortified walls of the monas- bed are provided entirely free, although tasy than reality. teries, with small vegetable plots around the accommodations are modest and visi- For spiritual seekers, Athos has the them, encircled by a silver-green sea of ol- tors are expected to conduct themselves appearance of heaven on earth. It is a ive groves. There are still caves that house according to certain standards. Provided fantastic place to visit if you are spiritual hermits who spend their days in solitude you are a man (sorry ladies but women are in nature, respectful of tradition and ad- and contemplation. It is a land where not allowed) and have secured the neces- venturous. myth is entwined with history and mira- sary papers, you are in for the experience cles mingle with reality. Savage mountain of a lifetime. Rhodes scenery reflecting on the dark blue sea A most memorable experience for Exactly the opposite from the serene and create that essential framework of peace in me was the ringing of the church bells contemplative experience of Mount Athos a solitary world, chosen by hermits for its at the Dionysiou Monastery. The monks is a visit to the island of Rhodes, or Rodos monastic state. use both their hands and feet to pull the as it is called in Greek. What I like about The beauty of Mount Athos is in its ropes attached to the bells and their move- this island, besides its beautiful land- timelessness. It is as if the monastic part of ment makes them ring. They start with scapes, is its cosmopolitan atmosphere the Byzantine world has been preserved simple movements making slow wide- and its many cultural monuments which in this quiet corner, full of mysticism and spaced sounds and then build to a staccato encompass many different civilizations. divine presence. It is not only a living rhythm, producing a heavenly symphony There are neolithic sites, classical Greek museum, but principally a place for prayer of bells, a crescendo which slowly again architectural monuments, Byzantine and contemplation. The monastic ideals fades away. churches, imposing medieval fortifications and way of life have been preserved in Church bell sounds are popular not and graceful mosques of the Ottoman oc- their purest form. only among believers, but among people cupation era. Today, there are 20 monasteries of who follow healing and relaxation prac- The visitor has the impression of living which 17 are Greek, one Russian, one Ser- tices. They have a positive and healthy in a fairy tale when entering the walls of bian and one Bulgarian. There are also 12 influence on the environment and on the the old city, built by the Knights of Saint sketes (smaller monasteries) and a number physical and moral condition of the indi- John after they were evicted from Jerusa- of even smaller units called kellia, kalyves, vidual. lem in the beginning of the 14th century kathismata or hesychasteria. One of the In the Orthodox Church, there is a long A.D. sketes is Romanian. and complex history of bell-ringing, with The capital, also called Rodos, occupies Visitors can only stay for four days particular bells being rung in particular the northernmost tip of the island. It is maximum and they must obtain a permit ways to signify different parts of the divine actually three cities in one: the modern, before entering the monastic community. services. Before mass communication, they the ancient and the medieval. The modern The monasteries uphold a long tradition of were the only way to gather people together, town has a cosmopolitan character, many hospitality for those who seek solace, relief so they evolved secular functions, too. late 20th century buildings and hotels.

48 july—august 2008 DESTINATIONS|THE LAST WORD

The ancient town, founded in 408 B.C. occupied the hill above the medieval city and is still visible by the ruins of ancient temples, stadiums and gymnasiums. The old town is still surrounded by the high walls erected by the Knights. It bustles with life from area bazaars, cafés, restaurants, bars, shops of all kinds and music that seems to come from every cor- ner. At the same time, museums, galleries and all sorts of monuments reflecting the 3,000-year history of the island as well as many cultural events are at the disposal of the culturally-minded. Offering Free Outside the old town the island is dotted with splendid sunny beaches Courier Service - alongside clear blue waters, and many picturesque villages and interesting places Always ensuring the best service for For your personal the diplomatic community, Accu-Rate consultation please call: Corporation offers free courier service Marie Boivin for embassy currency exchanges and Managing Director payroll conversion. 613-596-5505 ext. 101  [email protected]

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The harbour at Rhodes, the principal city of the Greek island by the same name. such as the Valley of the Butterflies, and Kameiros, site of the ancient Dorian city, not to mention Kallithea, with its thermal baths. But above all, one should not miss Lindos, on the southern tip of the island. The contrast between the brilliant white houses and winding lanes of the more recent village and the ancient Acropolis towering above is one of the most stun- ning views in Greece. Greece has many destinations that cater to every taste and budget. Above all, it of- fers all visitors a special joie de vivre and a way to rediscover themselves.

Nikolaos Matsis is Greece's Ambassador to Canada

diplomat and international canada 49

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