For w r e o d.

T H E T E XT . TH E objects of this little book are as modest as its i I t is the aim o the writer to su l s ze . f pp y informa tion in a handy form to readers interested in a country which has already been a cause of recent " “ Critical S ituations in the world of I nternational iti A t the same time he has endeavoured to so Pol cs . frame his ma terials that the resultmay be found useful to travellers who are resortin to M orocco in ever , g increasing numbers I t would be quite impossible to ac knowledge all the help received or all indebtedness to the writers of horita ive works on the sub e t dealt wit n aut t j c h, a d a l t os s w invidious to m ke distinctions . Wi l h e friend ho have been kind please accept a general tribute of thanks r u and g atit de . To an who ha ve a taste or histor it ma be y f y , y mentione d that there is no really critical book on the

sub ect althou h M r. Bud ett M eakin did s lendid j , g g p “ a pioneer work in his M oorish E mpire . Origin l sources have been consulted for the outline sketch to be o nd on a 7 7 4 f u p ges 08 to 5. R eaders who detect any errors or omissions will be heartil thanked b the writer or ointin the m ou t y y f p g , witha view to u u e r c ns f t r cor e tio .

T H E I L L U S T R AT I ON S .

M ost of the illustrations are fromphotographs ta ken ’ re entl in he ourse h w it r s ra n rocc c y t c of t e r e t vels i M o o. C o n te nts .

PAGE

I T he s i s E a s S E CT I ON . My ter ou t

I I —G a and T a . eogr phy r vel

— I I L T he People and their Ways

I V —T he “ ai and . F th the Faithful

V —H is . tory

VI —T a . opogr phy

VI —T he and i I . Rovers the r Victims 2 1 2

I — a k ks a i V I I . Rem r s on Boo de l ng with Morocco

I X — is of D a i s . L t yn st e

—I e X . nd x List of Illu stra tions .

T he u a of e ad ain s F nti i c K bb s D S t ra sp e e .

PAGE PAGE An Olive Grove of S outh A T angie r Sc e ne 1 88 M oroc c o T he Dis ap p ointe d Litigant 1 96 T he Rive r T ans ift Glou wi C as tle A Be e hiv e H u t Pirate C raft A N ati ve Doc tor Mountaine e rs of the Glou w i A Ba ggage M u le C lan M atthe w at the Rec e ip t of I n the Agu dal G arde ns of the C u s toms S ul tan 2 28 A M oorishDanc e r Butte r-making 236 T he M ue ddhin c alls to Pray e r 52 A Potte r atW ork 244 M ountain Be rb e rs I n the S tre e ts of M arrake sh 252 W ome n of the Atla s M oorishPip e 253 MoorishBarbs T he G u e st C hamb e r in a Moorish C ou ntr y House 254 T he S lave M arke t Pos ture s during Praye r 255 Borrowe d Pl ume s

C ostu mes 256, 257 C u stome rs que s tioning a S lave Koos- Koos 258 A Little Bit of T raditional Bras s W ate r Jug and Basin 259 “ " De se rt S lip e rs and S ilk W ork from An Atla s T rac k gouthM oroc c o Ke y to M ooris hHistory Marrake sh Le athe r W ork An Arab Enc amp me nt Mode rn M oorishC oins Amzmiz Various MoorishArtic le s A M oorish FrontDoor Music al I nstrume nts T he F amous Kootoob e e yah A Cou ntry Girl w e aring M inare t Brooc he s A C ov e re d S tre e t in the Map of M arrak e s h S ou the rn C ap ital 1 56 Map of Fe z T he H all of De lights 1 64 S ath Potte ry and Fe z M e tal T he Gre atG ate of Marrak e sh x7 2 W ork Juggle rs and S nake Charme r: 1 80 M ap of M oroc c o Se c tion I .

The

Mysteriou s

Ea st

Ge ne ra l

7 H AT has been known to E uropean “ N ation s for many centuries under the " title of “ T he E as t poss esses the same attraction s for the modern E nglishman as it did for his ancestors far back in the days of the

A - T h s nglo S axon and the Dane . e old Goth invaded Morocco in s uch numbers as to es tablis h an i i for i a s and emp re wh ch endured e ghty ye r , s ome ethnogra phica l students believe tha t it is s till possible to tra ce the T eutonic s train in the modern

Moor .

One of the mos t famous tragedie s of our O the ll o . ” “ a of A s world poet , the Sw n von , centre round " of “ and the figure the Moor Othello , the

it The coas t of M oroc c o is W e s t of G ree nw ic h b u t the te rm a s t , E i has a sign fica tion othe r than the s tric tly geograp hic one . dramatist with his wonderful insight into the

k i s f a in its him wor ng o human n ture , even (to )

f i i f has i in his a un am l ar orm , dep cted pl y the The true Oriental feeling of a genuine E astern .

a a s i a i f s s me story, under l ghtly v r ed orm , occur in the “ Arabian that wonderful collee tion of E astern tales which has become so fa i ia us and i is of s m l r to , , ndeed, one the mo t i precious possessions of E nglis h ch ldhood . ” T he E i of ' as it is s i a mp re Morocco, 1 t ll c lled , contains to an eminent degree the uns poiled life

of E as . E as in s the t ven on the co t , the town

isi E a s a s a i s are v ted by the urope n te mer , the n t ve s a S i i and a c rcely touched by the Western p r t , journey a very fe w miles up country t ak es the i traveller to una dulterated Oriental sm . I t is not necessary to mak e a longer journey than that involved in the five or s ix days

ssa a T a i in a iz nece ry to re ch ng er, order to re l e

iff s and E as i the d erence between We t t , to wh ch

' it ane s e dition ub lishe d in 1 8 is the b e st for e ne ral ur ose s L , 7 7 , g p p , it is a lite ral translation from the Arabic and p re s e rv e s mu c h of the ’ irit of the ori inal s S ir ic hard Burton s translation is a solute l sp g . R b y

lite ral and unc li e d. I n the as t th s e e s are s e arate d so tha titis p p E e x p , not ne c e s s ar to c ate r for mixe d au die nc e s as Eur op e an l itérate urs do T e s t le re s ultin from lite ral transla tion is indi c a te d in mu s t . y g

o I . a i . S ec ti n I I , c h p . i i t T he name of the c ountry w e are cons idering is v ariousl de rive d by e tymologists ; the mos t p lausible e xp lanation s e e ms to 9 one that “ ” trac e s its origin to a latinized formof the word maur or mahur,

me aning W e st. Rudyard Kipling calls attention in his well known lines

For as t is ast and W e st is W e s t E E , , But ne v e r the twain shall mee t Till the e a rth and sky stand p re se ntly ’ " At G r od s g e at j udgme nts e at .

But this very difference gives a piquancy to the i i s i i At nterest n p red n the one by the other . the same time it renders all the more necessary s i i as i s of i s T he ome d rect on to the po nt ntere t . writer ha s been accosted in the s treets of T angier

a f as s as s e e s i s by ellow p enger hore to the ght , ” i s i Whatis there to see he re ! and w th the que t on , yet the questioner w as s tanding in the middle of a s cene s uch as he had never witness ed before . I t w as a k da and f k had in m r et y, the country ol come T h i i f from the neighbouring villages . e var et es o

s i and i a k co tume, phys ognomy colour ng were rem r

: a - C i f a in s ss i able well born h e cl d potle wh te , the hood of his fine sou lham drawn over his

‘ a a i i i turb n , mounted on a m gn ficent r d ng mule , and wearing a pair of elaborately decorated riding

h d s a s his A a boots , a ju t p s ed by , fine cut ry n fea tures expressing no emotion as he ga zed ahea d across the street a water carrier had Opened the top of his goat skin b ag and w as s elling water to a man f a in a s i rom the Sud n , clad th t ngle blue

a i i f i i a a s o hs a . A outer g rment , ch r cter t c r ce l ttle further on a woman of the lower orders held her

aik is a fa i h cornerw e cross her ce , cover ng one eye and D i i d di the whole mouth . esp te th s sa s a a a she a i dv nt ge , however, was ch tter ng volubly

s he a i f r as b rga ned o a water melon .

a s a a is i On bo rd the te mer , nyone who go ng inland is constantly asked how he is going to ” ss s and si a a s is cro the de ert , con der ble ton hment , s i s a i i i is a s omet me mount ng to ncredul ty , rou ed ” when one states that the des ert is for the most part exceedingly fertile agricultural land which

s a ai and all s s of r in grow b rley, m ze , ort co n a a and is i s s i s of bund nce , nter per ed w th grove

i s fi and a s sa i of ol ve , g lmond tree , to y noth ng the date palms and (in the South) argan trees which form an important feature of the landscape . T he weather on the co as t is exceedingly enjoy a s i in f A a i all ble, the breeze blow ng rom the tl nt c the year round k eeps the mea n s ummer tempera ture within ten degrees of the mean temperature f r I n s of i is o the winter months . the cour e t me th fa i k and a a s ct w ll become nown , long the co t the towns will develop into favoured pleasure resorts .

’ T is a s h at T a i proce s that as already begun ng er , I N AN O L I VE G V or T H RO E S OU M OROC C O . (see p age 4)

e f and where really excellent hotels ar to be ound , where E uropean s have s tarted to build for their

i i a in is own hab tat on ; Mog dor too , the South , now offering attraction s for visitors since the i f s opening of its new hotel . Judg ng rom the e

a s ss s s ik a ex mple , the progre eem l ely to move long lines which leave the E as tern characteristic s

a i a s i at as for a a s pr ct c lly un po led , le t very m ny ye r

I f a a to come . t must not be orgotten th t cont ct with E uropean s on the coas t is no new thing it has e i for i s and a b en go ng on centur e , the cont ct has by no mean s been entirely or even mainly

s i . T he i i k ho t le Moor s by nature gen al , jo e

i and s i a and a his i i lov ng ho p t ble, lthough rel g on tea ches him tha t non - M ohanime dans are doomed

a i i is i f s to etern l perd t on , th bel e doe not prevent him from enjoying intercours e with the doomed

or - uturit i A f f y n this present world . part from the rare outbreak s of fan aticism which now an d again s weep across the E as t in the same w ay a s . i i s i a s as s E a i s rel g ou rev v l p over urope n countr e , no E uropean who tak es ca re not to wantonly

a i i i s f i s outr ge the r rel g ou eel ng , need expect

s a i a f his mole t t on on ccount O own . I have sometimes been ask ed : “ What would happen if I got into the interior of a Mos que The answer is that probably a Moor connected with the place would tak e you by the hand and gently

a a ai . I t is of s but firmly le d you out g n , cour e , poss ible that s ome very ardent disciple Of the Prophet might u se his dagger ; but such ardour

is a and a e t in saf . r re, you would prob bly g out ety

a is i . I do not , however , dv e the exper ment I t is in the hope that the notes printed in su b sequent chapters will prove of u se in pointing out to folk desiring to visit this L and of Mystery what they might expect to find there

i s th at this book has be en produced . I t w ll erve al so to remind thos e who have visited it of what

s aw and a s a s s a they , perh p to en ble tho e who t y at home to trans port themselves in imagina tion a cross the seas . Se c tion ll . Geogra p h y

a n T l d rav e .

H I S section contains only the fe w geographica l

details which s eem absolutely necessa ry . Any long continued exposition is ap t to be

a is d in as of a ik we r ome, an the c e country l e

so a i ai s Morocco , where much explor t on rem n to be

a i a s i i s are a t done, geogr ph c l de cr pt on p to become dis cus sion s of points on which authorities and

’ s iff . Bu d e tt M e ak in s a k s explorer d er . Mr g rem r " a s 2 an 2 1 Of T he L a of s on p ge 0 d nd the Moor , a re i i and ma i eloquent on th s po nt , the p wh ch a a i s is s i ccomp n e the volume more eloquent t ll , particul arly on a ccount Of its omissions ! I h ave included in this s ection a fe w notes of wh at n aturally is interdependent with geography

and a : a a . T is s i m ps n mely , tr vel h ect on covers the following ch apters m m

M aur t n an r I . e a i Quadrilate al (Geographical 8

I I avel a . Tr ( ride fromM ogador to M arrakesh) 1 5 I int t I I . H s o Travellers 2 4 I ort nd V. Sp s a Pastimes C H APT E R I .

The M a u re ta nia n Q u a drila te ral .

G a i a s aki - s eogr ph c lly pe ng, the North We t corner of Af i a i i s A ia and r c , wh ch nclude Morocco , lger ,

T is f s a c ohe re nt i un , orm whole , whether our po nt of V i a i a i i a i . ew be orogr ph c , hydrogr ph c , or cl m t c

‘< I t is so a L e o Afric anu s its , moreover , tre ted by f

T he of Oldest historian and geogra pher . whole

is i w as at i i E th terr tory one t me jo ned to urope , and formed part Of what is now the I berian

i s a f i it w a s b of Pen n ul , rom wh ch torn y one the i f i i i I convuls ons o preh stor c t mes . ts genera l features maint ain to this day rather a South i E uropean th an an Afr ca n cha racter .

T his Moroccan - Alge rio- T unisian Qua dril ateral — is hemmed in by two k inds of ocean s ou the North a nd We s t by ocean s of s alt wa ter (the — Mediterranean a nd the Atlantic) ou the Sou th a nd E as the a a of sa k t by gre t oce n nd , well nown A i under the title of S ahara . s a protect on from this se a of s and it is in this direction girdled by a

a i s s i u s ak i f s mount n y tem wh ch , ro ghly pe ng, orm

e S e p age 1 87 . e of s of i i s the outer dge the egment a c rcle wh l t , a ia i f ai i s a r d t ng rom the m n r dge , runs whole s s of s a ai s and b ill a s i y tem m ller mount n r nge , w th

n i ' T a i numerous valleys a d rav ne s . he le d ng characteristic throughout is the gra dua l fal ling awa y of the highl and s in terrace form a tion to an altitude of from to 50 0 feet a bove se a

a a i Of a ai s level , the ver ge he ght the Morocc n pl n

i al i unt l the fin cl p on the coast . T he distance from C a pe s Juby and Nun (opposite the C an a ry I slands) to C ape Bon over a ai s i i is a i s i s g n t S c ly bout m le , wh l t the s i s of i a s a s a a and er e h ghl nd , v lley , pl te ux , border ranges which stretch from the Mediterranean to the S a har a ha ve a me an breadth of nearly 200

i s T is i s “ a ia i m le . h g ve the M a uret n n Quadr lateral (as geographers c all it) a tot al a rea of a a i s i ia i i bout squ re m le , terr tor lly d v ded thus

s a i s . Morocco , qu re m le i A a . lger , do

T i ia . un s , do

do .

T his mus t not b e unde rstood as a s tate me nt tha t the land is traver se d in its e ntir e length by a distinc t a nd u nbroke n mountain ran e from a e g C p N un on the Atlantic to M onas tir on the M e dite rrane an, b u t onl that it is c om le te l oc c u ie d ran es de tac hed rid e s ‘ y p y p by , g es c ar me nts and inter e nin late au: whic h col ec tiv e l form art Oi p , v g p y p f s a I f we start rom the outhern bound ry , we i first tra verse a district th at is genu nely des ert . i i i of Ow ng, however , to the prox m ty the

ai s s a s ia a s mount n we h ll find , e pec lly tow rd the

s i a s of a s i s in We tern port on , upply w ter, omet me

s fa s i s in s a a s a s . ur ce , omet me ubterr ne n tre m Definite oa ses result where the supply is

a it is i i a perm nent , but even where nterm ttent

of a is a i growth herb ge produced , ephemer l ndeed , but extremely va luable a s fora ge to the nom adic tribes which inh a bit these region s .

T a i in a - s i i r vell ng north we terly d rect on , we

a z of f ains and next encounter one lo ty mount ,

a a a i i z i in fin lly we re ch the m r t me one , wh ch ,

A ia a a s i s far i a in lger but n rrow tr p , run nl nd

T i * H a un s and Morocco . ere the w ter flows in a a f ai s and i s and bund nce rom the mount n h ll , combines with dews and rain s to afford a mple possibilitie s of growing prolific crop s and rich

as s f r a i n p ture o re r ng c attle a d sheep .

a c ontinuous mountain s yste m p re se nting a c e rtain hys ic al unity in its e ne ral dis ition e olo ic al o nstitution an m in l g , g g c , a bio ogi ’ ” fe ature s . Se e ac c ount A. H . e ane in S tanfor d s Com e ndium by K p , ondon 1 0 whe r h wr L , 9 7 , e t e ite r oe s on to s how that the l ine s of the Atlas are aralle l to thos e of the Sie rr e ada in ain p a N v S p . ” Gusta e e anno “ v J t E tude sur le Marc o.

the only one feet) that afford s p assage to * a a a s of a - a a s c r v n he vy l den c mel .

T he S ah aran districts of Morocco are more

Borde rs . i s i i a ai i s a nd cop ou ly rr g ted by r n , by r vulet ,

s a a s i s a are s of A ia ubterr ne n pr ng th n tho e lger ,

’ ”

n Vi . Bérar L Aff i a d . c d a re a ai . 8 M M roc ne , p ) describes thes e o as es a s Ga rden s of pa lm s and

a s a s of a s s d i a or nge tree , l nd double h rve t an trop c l

crops .

i i a i of a s R v e rs . Ow ng to the configur t on the upl nd no

a i a i in s n v g ble r ver Morocco reaches the coa t . Some of the drainage tends to the Mediterranea n through the River M olou iya a nd a fe w smaller

s a s s wa tre m , ome to the desert through the dy Dr a ina ge . G i s of it A a i h r , but mo t to the tl nt c through the

R a re Gu ru ia Sebou , the Bou g g , the er Reb h ,

T e nsift us A ak a and D . a , S , s , raa P rtly due to the

ssi i i a k of s exce ve evaporat on (ow ng to the l c tree ), and partly to the large qu antity drawn off for

i i a i of a as s a rr g t on , the volume w ter decre e ne r

a T he i a a of si i the co st . r vers c rry lot lt wh ch

T owards the oasis of W ad Bras and the nc e to T afila lt the little r T he se are the me f f e qu e nted p as se s are to fe e t high. ans o mm ni i s h e z i o te r c o u c t on outh ard from M arra e F s n e t 03 . T e a s w s k . b h E di o h one Op e n rou te from Fe z is that in a N . . re c ti n whic p a sse s the c l e ft of T aza and thus p ie rce s the Middle Atlas and its offshoot of the iff at fe e Pas s in throu h the alle of the i R t. g g v y R os m d r l unavue n an Me ss oun this road te nds towards T le c e n an O an.

* s C l ima te . causes the formation of bars at their mouth .

as is a i i T he clim ate on the co t br c ng, the w nds

and i ee i s in s cool , nd d somet me cold , even ummer ; ° ° the temperature varying between 6 1 and 7 1

i ai and a s Fa hrenhe t . On the pl n upl nd the

a e a a nd s i o f s s variations r gre ter , l ght gr und ro t

- l so G . a . Co . . are experienced L t. W M cpher n , in a mos t va luable report on the northern district

T i and a a s between ang er Fez and R b t , comment on the great distinctness with which the mount ain outlines were defined at noon

’ s a a as s we never ob erved the he t h ze , or br y

’

sk in i i a s . T s ia y, so common trop cal cl m te erre tr l

ia i f ak s a a i and rad t on , there ore , t e pl ce r p dly , the

“ A a at night dews are heavy . t the temper ture ° 9 0 Fahrenheit there w as practically no s ensible i ” pers pirat on . T he period of rainfa ll is the same as th a t of Ra in fa ll

A i n i ha ai v iz . : a d s fa s Sp n , October to pr l , th ll

i i of i a i i not the cont nu ty trop c l , but the nterm ttency i i f E a a . I n i i o South urope n r n the nter or , dur ng

M a are f izz s and a i y, there o ten fine dr le , occ s onal

in he a s i s s and . T s thunder torm June july e t w nd W ind .

T he Draa the lar e st of the M ooris h ri e rs a e ars to ha e e e n , g v , p p v b in old days a c op ious riv e r ; a nd (in the u p p e r re a c he s fl ow mg p e re nnially 30 to 40 yards w ide and 3 fe e t de e p ) e nds in an e xte ns ive ll n fo i s ha ow lagoo be re re ac h ng the c oas t. in s i s ai f s ummer blow ng tr ght rom the de ert ,

i s si a is ssi w thout cro ng w ter , exce vely dry , the

i s a s of i is northerly w nd , too , h ve mo t the r mo ture

i T h s ntercepted by the Riff Mountain s . e we terly i wind s the moisture l a den brea th of the Atlantic .

I n i i i Wi a i the nter or , dur ng nter , the e sterly w nd is cold a nd bracing ; it is drea ded in s ummer

of a ki T anooli and under the name Sh r , or , re sembles the bl ast from a burning fiery

f a T he s i s in i are urn ce . we terly w nd w nter

a and in s and f s i w rm muggy , ummer cool re re h ng,

n ai a d a pleas ant relief from the hot eastern rs .

T he s i s f for i a a be t per od , there ore , nl nd tr vel

are s i and a s i pr ng utumn ; ummer be ng too hot ,

i s in i i s s i ai a re wh l t w nter the r ver , wollen w th r n , f o ten unfordable for d ays together .

i s in a re fe w and far Bridge s . Br dge Morocco between , a nd it is a o a Fe z a i a of not long g th t , the c p t l the

i w a s a i fa i Northern K ngdom , thre tened w th m ne in winter through being cut off from s upplies by

an s ai s unu ually r ny eason . T he s ea board with its equable clim ate c an be visited all the yea r round ; the writer ha s tried va rious s ea son s of the year and found but little variation in temperature between them on the

as a is a si a co t , lthough there very con der ble difference at a comparatively short distance i a nl nd .

I C H APT E R I .

Tra v e l a nd Top ogra p hy.

T ravel in Morocco means necessarily riding ;

a re a a s and s there no m de ro d , con equently

k T he a i wheeled vehicles are un nown . n mal

s fa e is and mo t vour d by the Moor the mule ,

i i ar s s a good r d ng mules e very co tly , but per on l experience has tended to produce a s trong

i in fa of s . a is prejud ce vour the hor e Bagg ge Ba gga ge .

a i k a s and c rr ed on p ac mules or c mel , the muleteer rides on top of his pack (“ birdah

“ T his con sists of twin - pa nniers of straw ( shwari containing wooden boxes in which the goods are s d s a a a k the tore , lung over le ther p c fitted to a i ki a i s are a and n mal the bul er rt cle pl ced on top,

“ " the whole s ecured by a rope (called “ twalle t )

’ nd i passed over the top a under the a n mal s belly . T he baggage animal thus laden will travel better

T he a e ra e load of a ac mule is a c wt. that of the ordinar v g p k , y l l came abou tdoub e . with the addition of the human burthen than it

i i a fa i s i . w ll w thout, ct ver fied by per onal exper ence ” I t is s sa a a and nece ry to be prep red to c mp out ,

s s i all i a a a ia con equently tent w th the r p r phern l ,

a f i ai s i f s &c . s c mp beds, old ng ch r , t nned ood , , mu t

k . T he s for a s i i i i a is C o at. be ta en co t ngle nd v du l high ; but for a party of from 1 0 to 2 0 the cos t

is T he f i i f per head very moderate . ollow ng br e — account of one of my recent trips a journey to M arrak esh made from Mogador in August (a b ad time of year) - will serve to indic a te wha t is to be

expected . I went alone and had to tak e five

a a s s a a ttend nt , the me number as would h ve

su flic e d f r o a party of 8 or 1 0 .

=l< >l<

Ac c ou nt of Our papers are in order ; we have letters to

S u mme r a i s i ia s s i a and ffi ia and v r ou nfluent l per on , pr v te o c l , Ride to are preceded by a M ahk azni (Government soldier M a rra

k e s h.

—“ — At this time of year the height of summer it is too hot to travel with any degree of comfort

m. nd m. nd 1 0 a a 2 . a it between p , we find bes t

s a s f a ak and a i to t rt oon a ter d ybre , tr vel t ll 9 or m n 1 0 a . . k a a a d s a i , then ma e long h lt t rt aga n m m. i 6 . . about 3 p . to travel t ll p

a b e e - i a s i lie w ttle h ve sh p ed hut , wh ch on our

i and a of i are r ght ne rer the brow the h ll , filled

- i a s . T he as i a s w th tr der pl ter bu lt cott ge , dotted i a i si are all flat- f rregul rly down the h ll de , roo ed a nd without chimneys : thes e are the permanent dwellings due to the pres ence of an abundant f i S pring a t the oot of the h ll . We do not encamp

e k a i a a s s is here , but s e pr v te gentlem n who e hou e

ass his not far away . We p through gate as the s u n sets over a delightful landscape of pas ture

a i s i i i l nd , ntersper ed w th ol ve groves , wh ch come in sight as we top the hill . We are warmly welcomed by the master of the

us f s s a si of E is ho e , who pro es e ncere love the ngl h , and plies u s in the course of the evening with all

H e i sorts of questions . produces a s er es of E uropean photographs and enquires about the

i s i places to wh ch they relate . One ubject to wh ch

i and i is H . M i E he recurs aga n aga n . K ng dward

V I I his “ a i i i i fa i i s rel t onsh p w th other rul ng m l e , i f hi his palaces and the ceremon al o s C ourt .

he for dé etmsr f us at T afs dast T hour j next ound ,

i s a f i a where a r ver run through ert le v lley, the

r i kl i slopes of which a e th c y clothed w th boscage . Our table is sprea d u nder a giant Argan tree whose gnarled tru nk has a girth of five and twenty f e . I tis of a of f and at is i e t one group our, th t me of a f i is i a re ye r , when the ru t r pe , they covered

i i i s ik a s i a s w th br ght yellow berr e l e l rge h ny corn ,

i s s . T f i s i ai m nu the cup hese ru t , wh ch cont n a a s a i ia f h rd nut , t nd out br ll ntly rom the thorny f i ’ a i is as a k as E is . ol ge , wh ch d r the ngl h yew I sit smoking my po st pra ndial pipe and lazily wa tching b oys driving reca lcitrant s heep to and

f i . An a a and i k rom the r ver ged wom n , bent wr n led , — a pproaches evidently she wants to s peak : her

a ms a a is a nd s he ch r h ve long v n hed , no longer se ks i f a i H e r a a e the protect on o ve l . gr ndd ughter in i e einte ff one of the huts yonder s nc and s u ering . Unders tanding that I am a Roumi (Arabic for

Roman s i u - for , t ll the common p country term

E h k f r i i uropean) she as come to as o med c ne . I t is the firm belief amongs t thes e simple folk that al l

E a s are in i I is i urope n league w th bl , the Pr nce of Da k ss and s a in his k of a r ne , h re nowledge rts ‘ i i magical and hea ling. 1 E nter ng the r miserable

se e a in a f i home, I the young wom n the h l l ght

T he Argan tre e is indige nous to this limite d are a of M oroc c o and is n w l m the nu t is r s s e d he Ar an il fou d no he re e se . r e t o w i h F o p g , h c is u se d by the c ommon p e op le ins tea d of Olive 01 1 . ' M edic ine and M a 1 0 l ac and white are c los e l a llie d a nd the 1 (b k ) y . ' native doc tor s w are s s e e illus tration on p age so) are a w e ird mix tu re of he r s u nme ntiona le a omina ti ons and w ritte n c ha rms . T e ts fr om b , b b , x the Koran on slip s of p ap e r rolled and ta ke n a s p ills are sp ec ially efi c ac ious . is i f f (there no w ndow), the olds o her cloak a a h rr nged to cover her mont . After a fe w questions and answers I leave some E psom salts — and quinine t ablets and come awa y with all the ble in s o Allah ss g f . Some week s later I pass through again and off- saddling to enquire a fter

fai a i she is “ i i a k my r p t ent , find do ng n cely , th n ” i i . s s s you Whether th due to my drug , or her fai a i A a a k s E x th , or to cc dent , ll h lone now i f im i tolled be the perfect ons o H that d eth not . T he clos e of day finds u s nearing a little town s i a i i k a a a i a s h p n med S d Mu ht r, n me wh ch me n

f And in i s of a a of Lord o Stone . the m d t l nd s is it se t i a k i o s tone , noth ng but h rd roc w th l o e

i i i of pebbles on top . L ttle eddy ng wh rlwinds sand rise and s oon s trong dus t - laden gust s blow in our

“ f i ski ik i s . Yallah! ace, cutt ng the n l e wh p Y l h is s a s al a (hurry up) now the word, a nd torm is rising . a nd f an i s We urge on our brutes , hal hour br ng u i a s i a i of s nto s helter, re dy to enjoy the ho p t l ty i the Ka d (Governor). The ride of the following morning includes the

i f of i a s at an cross ng o one the h ll r nge , projected

T i s are a and angle to the Atlas . he se h ll b re

is Ar a in a i of stony , there but one g n tree r de

s ome mile s : this is situated at the western side of

“ the pass and is known by the n ame of T he i n i m. a t s u i . I t s a H erm t 9 when we re ch , the

s and are all a of a fe w is already trong, we gl d

i a a su of a and a a k a m nutes h lt , p w ter , b c w rd glance at the bold sweeps of the hills we h ave

ass i i k a i i isi in p ed , S d Moo ht r be ng st ll v ble the distance . After cross ing the pass we have a magnificent i i ! pros pect on the other side . Yonder w nds a r ver there the c omfie lds begin ! and the clumps of trees ! See the s mok e ris ing from that thick et a little to

i i i h h T is a i the r ght of t s S e s ow ah. h ench nt ng vision is bounded on the horizon by the Mountains of A a is a and a i in tl s blued by the d t nce , rec ll ng their majes ty the fact that there we have the

of all i a s of the re cradle the rul ng r ce Morocco , we have the mighty benefactors of the Moors which protect them from des ert bl as ts and pour down upon the plains a bounteous s upply ofwater . And

ai are s i s i s i s r those mount ns t ll my ter ou , the r ec ets T have yet to be discovered . ravellers have pene trate d them at certain points : but their very direction and extent are only gene rally known ! S heshow ahis the most charming halting pla ce

t is a on the journey, our sojourn here veritable i i i i i p cn c under deal cond t ons . T he flow of the

i is a a and for i i a i s s it i r ver bund nt , rr g t on purpo e s artificially divided into three cours es to be reunited

f . T he s urther down tree , the undergrowth , the riverside plants and flowers are exceedingly grateful after a hot morning s truggle with bare

basaltic rock . When we reach M e soude e yah on the following day we find that here again the Moors h ave chos en the bares t s pot in the neighbourhood for their T i i f walled village . h s general rule s ollowed

f r s k of s f s o a o the a e a ety , th t no cover

f r i may be available o an approach ng foe . H ere

s s s of we pend the hotte t hour our whole journey , in one of the wattled bee - hive sh a pe d huts illus

a s i k a trated on page 20 . W ter pr n led on the h rd earth fl ooring dries as itfalls ; a watch hung by its ch ain from the roof is s o hot it can s carcely be handled ! At the close of the day we find ourselves on the grea t plain where rows of da te palms herald our a pproach to the neighbourhood

All is a n of M arrak es h . the country green d

i i : are s i W ad s m l ng we clo e by the r ver , the

s i and i a t T e nsift. We pend our even ng n ght

in a a i of Khouadra, g rden belong ng to one the i i Ga rde n noble s who is at present resident n the cap tal .

Sepulchre . T hree hours later we enter M arra

k s Ba b D akk a a af i e h by the l , ter pas s ng alongside the many s eries of palm groves for which

’ a ak i M rr esh s famou s . Our five days ride is over

and c an f a s i s i we orget the h rd h p , remember ng as s i f only the ple ure , wh ch a ter all have distinctly i predom nated .

C H APT E R I I I .

on t ons of Tr v e n C di i a lli g .

I n a of ss s f C os tume . the m tter dre , tudy com ort not

E i s s i aki a ppearance . xper ence eem to po nt to Kh

as s a i a - a s a the be t we r, w th J eger under g rment ; s un helmet is almost a necess ity for inl and travel I t is well for even those who fancy them s elves ” on hor seba ck to go s low at first it is one thing ’ to enjoy an hour or two s scamper across an

E is and a s ngl h country , nother to pend twelve hours in the saddle under perhap s unfa vourable

condition s . I t is wis e to bring your own s addle ; but do not

i i a i a a s af i m t te the wr ter, who r shly put n fle nto

f a s i i f - - a the mouth o p r ted our year old , ccustomed only to Mooris h bits ; fitted him for the first time

i E is sa and E is s i s and w th an ngl h ddle ngl h t rrup , — then mounted s purle ss in a narrow and crowded city thoroughfare

i a “ f i it is a is a W th reg rd to urn ture , dv ble to tak e your own and h ave it adjus ted to s uit the a i r i i T he i b it is a n mal you a e r d ng . Moor sh

itis a i a i cruel lever curb , but the only pr ct c l th ng for a mule on whose h ard mouth and obstinate

a s f k s i i i temper na fle ma e no mpres s on . Spurr ng is the recognis ed method of starting or urging a b a a i k a and is i e st to qu c er p ce , the Moor h st rrup

se e a 2 is a a is ( p ge 63) d pted to th purpose .

T i f o s are far a i s and a n de r . nned o d by the h nd e t , Pro ve good supply s hould be t ak en ; tinned fruit s and

i i k re i i s C a e s a re t nned m l a nd s pe n able . mp b d a

a of s and it ma s a s m tter cour e , y be ju t well here to add a word of warning when sleeping in summer

T he f i f on the road . ollow ng extract rom the

“ ” account of a july experience on the road . of a a i s ak for i s f Af recent tr veller w ll p e t el . ter describing the beauties of s ome m agnificent R abat ca rpets on the floor of a gue s t chambe r of a

i ia G s prov nc l overnor , he goe on “ H ere I h ave occasion to be th ank ful to the Pres s of my Mother C ountry Obliviou s to the “ i ch arms of c oa c hing on magn ficent Oriental rugs .

a s D ail Tele ra h: s I h ve ome y g p pread out , well ’ all i a i and a powdered over w th Ke t ng, my c mp “ is i ! bed s prea d upon th at . O w e precaut on T hose lovely c arpets were full of the m!

‘ H as o is f i sa : I f owever , my Mo r h r ends y you “ will travel in summer hea t : Allah Ac hb ar !

’ M k o e to b .

I t is ak s m a s a s f i S up p l ie s . well to t e o e c ndle , bre d , u fic ent ’ * a for a s s for a i s &c . b rley one d y upply the n mal , ,

a ma a e t As a bec use you y not be ble to g them .

’ rule thes e things c an be bought at the N zal la in

i a i and if are wh ch , or ne r wh ch , you camp , you — pa rt aking of hospitality which is granted a s a

a of s — are s i i m tter cour e you uppl ed w th them ,

i s all s of k f &c . for bes de orts coo ed ood , , both f yoursel and your men .

’ i of s ti s s s a s a nd if You w ll cour e p the ho t erv nt ,

“ a s an ffi ia Vai s th t ho t be o c l , the l mu t be

I t is s i a s u m increas ed . be t to g ve lump to the chief s ervant with the reques t to have it dis

’ i At a n N zalla asi s a is tr buted . the e e t pl n to p ay

f r i c i a nd f a i o everyth ng you re e ve, be ore le v ng to

H ors e s in M oroc c o and the E ast ge ne rally are fe d on ba rle y w hic h

c ool s inste ad of oats w hic hhe at. T he los se s of Bri tish c a alr hors e s , v y “ ” in E g t w ould have be e n s malle r had the c us tom of the c ountry y0glo d be e n we . hand the he a d man a gift for the privilege of pitching your tent under his protection ; he is

si for sa f so a it is re ally res pon ble your ety , th t quite reasonable to do so.

H A T E I V C P R .

orts a nd a st me s Sp P i .

T he inhabitant of Great Britain goes to watch a football m atch and criticise the performers : the Moor goes to watch a “ Powder Play and criticis e

h h in I n a a a a f t e s oot g. e ch c se good m ny o the S pect ators k now very little about the matter dis

ss and ai s s k i cu ed , cert nly mo t Moor now m ghty little a bout shooting . T he method of procedure con sists in the form ation of horsemen into lines of about 1 2 abreast ; d a i i i they next procee to ch rge l ne by l ne, the r ders in ea ch line as it flas hes up to the sa luting point pull the horses sharply from a gallop to a s tand * still and the soldiers dis charge their musk ets in a

ss . T s and volley (more or le ) hey then pur on , the second line repeats the proces s till all h ave had a

“ a i s i - - n turn , when the w rr or r ght about wheel e

masse and a s s so , repe t the proce long as the powder i l asts . Such s the more regul ar form of the Play : wherein the aim s eem s to be to bring hors es galloping in line to a s udden s top in order

a and s i to fire volley , then weep on to g ve the

s i a a . T are econd l ne ch nce here , however , variations in which some attempt at real military i evolut ons of a disorderly kind a re made . When

a i f and af dis a i ch rg ng, both be ore ter ch rg ng, they

a s s of a k s i i sk s i i pl y all ort pr n w th the r mu et , fl ng ng

in air and a i &c . them the c tch ng them ,

k I n ma i ss assi a H a w in g. Morocco the hunter y w tne the cl c l

f k I t is asa i s port o haw ing. no unple nt exper ence

s a a i in a s i and to t rt on fine morn ng e rly pr ng, follow a line of beaters crossing a flower S pangled

s f s in as and heath . Moor on oot hold hound le h

s s a k i i a a Moor on hor eb c , equ pped w th le ther g unt

s a k s s in ss s i in let , hold hooded h w ecured j e e , qu te

mediaeval style .

‘ A p roc ed u re the y are v e ry fond o f; the de tail that a c ontinu e d a b u s e ars o u ite imma t rial T he M oor is n of iti nj u re s the horse s ap p e t b e q e . a e c e lle ntride r b utis a s olu te l i norant of how to c are for or nu rs e x , b y g hi s mount and no ride r w ho alu e s his a nimal s hou ld le nd i t to a , v ” i e natv . A BA GG AG E M U L B

I n M a rc hin T rim g . (see p age 75j

and ss S antri a i a l i che ( j) pr ct c l y hold the field , see ng

h s s . C e a a nd f r th t c rds a all games o ch ance a e forbidden . C hess s eem s a pa rticularly a ppropriate game for

an A and is in f I a a . a r b , much vour ndeed , lthough

a is a of I ia i i it a the g me prob bly nd n or g n , c me to

E f A a s a fa in urope rom the r b , ct preserved the

i “ C k a i is si ak term hec m te, wh ch mply Sh or

“ i i f “ h is She k (Ch e ) M at (de ad). T e game

a i s a a ia s as in E a and pl yed w th the me m ter l ngl nd, the only difie re nc e in the method adopted by the Moorish pl ayers I h a ve met is that the Queens

i s a of i a f n te d be ng e ch on her own colour, ace the

’ ’ i T he ia i opponent s K ng. pecul r Kn ghts move

a a i in k I a a of b ut llowed to K ng chec h ve he rd , i not exper enced . Besides thes e amusements there are night pro cessions with p aper lantern s and ma rching musician s and dancers got up in all k inds of

fa i i s T s ssi is s f all ntas t c r g . he e proce on t per orm s orts of extravagances of the nature k nown a mong

E i “ m fliki I n s as s the ngl s h as a ng . ome c e there

is an a a t k i a se t of a a s ttempt eep ng up ch r cter , and it is from this k ind of M oorish dance th at the old E nglis h M orris danc mg is s upposed to have i or ginated .

s and i r k E a Ball C nderellas a e un nown , the stern gets his dancing done for him and the Johnnies of Morocco will sometimes club together to ge t in a s ma ll troupe of celebrated dancers and singing girl s who perform in a garden belonging to one of

a w a is f “ k the p rty , here the B ll o ten ept il “ ’ rolling t l the wee sma hours . Se c tion III .

The

Peop le a nd

ir Wa the ys .

H I S section is an endeavour to give an idea of the manners and customs of the

s i i s a Moors , not by lengthy de cr pt on but by

s i er es of sk etches . T he two s hort a rticles on Government and Foreign Rights may s erve to indicate the political

i e s A i C af s and s d , tho e on rch tecture, r t , the ” i i i a and i s ia si H uman t es , the ntellectu l ndu tr l de , the other cha pters will indicate something of the

ia if Soc l L e . I am fully aware that much that is interesting find s no place here ; but if there is enough to give a good general idea of the Moor

lui has a ai . she: , my object been tt ned

3 2 T he chapters in this se ction a re

C H APT ER PAGE

I - Thc r anization o Government . O g f

I I —Forei n Ri hts and “ Protection . g g — I II A Dinner Party in M orocco

- I V. Architecture

V — ra ts . C j

— VI I Appa rcl

VI I I M oroccan H umanities

IX -M oorishH ospitality and Dishes — X A Garden R esidence in City Walls — XL A h Afternoon in the S la ve M a rket

A C H P T E R I .

The Or a v m t g niza tion of Go e rn e n .

T he a of is s i i a i f s Sult n Morocco p r tu l ch e fir t , political afterwards an eloquent indica tion of this is the fact that the members of the first dyn asty (that of the I dre e si S he rifls) bore simply the ” i i s i of I ma un L eader s e e rel g ou t tle ( ), page ” T i a i w as E i - e l - M ou slimin he r l ter t tle m r , then

E i - - i m r e l M ou me nin . T hey were origin ally n f a s i C a and it w as eud l ubject on to ordov , only

f fa f a ki i D . a a ter the ll o th t ngdom n 1 03 1 A. th t the Friday petition (E l K hotha) was put up i f h f for the s overe gn o Morocco . T e Sultan o Morocco own s no allegiance to the T urk ish

i of ai f as he a s his ai Pr nce the F th ul , b se cl m to s piritual overlordship on a direct descent from

Ali s on - in - law of s e e a , the the Prophet ( p ge The s uccession does not go by primogeniture

ik a a in A - a but , l e the old rr ngement nglo S xon

i i of a s on a i t mes , by the cho ce or other rel t ve

a i i ai s him for m de by the rul ng Sovere gn , who tr n

T h s i f a a the throne . e hou ehold dut es o the P l ce

are in a s of ss s a the h nd negre e , who w sh the floor , h r f in ki . T e &c . ; men a e ound only the tchen personal s ervice of the Sultan is in the hands of concubines ; the M oualin E ttas (women of the ewer)

and M oulet E ssaboim of s a &c . the (women the o p), ,

T h M oulet cl akla s erve him at to ilet . e M (women

of is s &c . s him at a M oulet the d he ), , erve t ble, the T h E ttai pour out his te a . e whole a rrangement is a dmirably in accordance with the details given in the dream of greatness depicted in “ The

’ T housand and One N ights (The Barber s S tory

t t r of his FifhBro he ). l u is m Ab s o t T he s ys tem of Government is tha t of a n a bsolute mon archy tempered by the necessity of ruling in accordance with the laws of the Mohammedan

h a ia s of s a s a re religion . T e gu rd n the e l w the

I t his fai Onlema (Doctors of Religion). w as lure to comply with this necessity that ga ve the enemies

f Ab d—l -A i a a i of o e z z , the l te Sult n , the opportun ty

i T he si a of dethron ng him. compo te n ture the

“ E i i i i a its C a i a mp re s nd c ted by double p t l , Fez in and a ak s in the Northern , M rr e h the Southern

i and i a it is of K ngdom , theoret c lly the duty the

a i i his a in a f and s Sult n to d v de ye r h l , pend one

i in a i a a i a . a s s a port on e ch Pr ct c lly wh t h ppen , th t the Sultan moves about from one p a rt of his

i i s i of f i dom n on to the other , w th the object en orc ng and extending his authority by the strong h and .

I n s is ik an of his other word the Ruler , l e m y

s s nomadic . ubject ,

of s s of is i H i a One the re ult th double t tle, ered t ry

ai and i is a i s a S nt Pr nce, th t wh l t the tempor l power is only obeyed where there are mean s at

a f i H i a ai h nd to en orce obed ence, the ered t ry S nt

i i i I n s s h p s recogn sed everywhere . other word there are two divisions in Morocco (with s hifting boundaries according to the individual power of

i I n — Blad the Pr nce, the one division the l — c M aghkscn the Sultan rules in both capacities . — — I n the other the Blad cs S iba he is recognis ed

as s i i a i f. A a i i a i only p r tu l ch e pl n , roughly nd c t ng

a i s e i the present bound r e betwe n the two, w ll be

f i s ound n et on the map at the end of the book .

T he M aghk se n comprehends the clan of the

a and h a i him Sult n t e ll ed families who s upport ,

si s a a of f ia s i i a and i i . be de whole rmy o fic l , m l t ry c v l

T he Palace of the Sultan contains a great

a E l M e c hou r c irc le d oflic e s Be nikas courty rd ( ), by ( ) Pl a c e , of the ministers (W aze e rs) and administrators

h i r i f ffi ia s (Oumana). T e follow ng a e the ch e o c l of the M aghk s e n

1 a Vizi E l Wazeer E l Aadha nz ( ) Gr nd er ( ),

H a i s i a ome Secret ry w th two ubord n tes ,

for for . one North , one South

i i is Wazcer E l Bahr (2 ) Fore gn M n ter ( ).

(3) Chancellor of the E xchequer (Wazcer E l

M alia s a i i are ), under who e gener l d rect on (5) and (6)

f Amin E l Dahhil (4) Collector o Revenue ( ).

(5) Adminis tra tor of E xpenditure (Amin E sh

- S hehara or E s S a cer).

(6) Administra tor of Accounts (Amin E l

H as ab ). (7 ) W a r Minister (Wazecr E l A llaf or Wazee r

a E l H rb). (8) Chancellor of St ate Prope rty (Amin ala

aa en Rib tE l M aghks ).

(9 ) Minister of Compla int s (Wazeer E sh i S hkaiyat).

i l ra (1 0) Chief L ord in W a ting (K aid E M eshon ). (H e introduce s to the S ultan and is Military C ommande r of the Palac e . )

E ach B an ik a contain s a number of Scribes

Kouttab and a n s M eshozm si s a ( ), U her ( ) , be de

number of M akhazni (s oldier servants). T he H adj ib (Grand Chamberlain) forms the intermediary be tween the Adminis trative P a la ce

’ and the Sultan s private qu arters . E ach of thes e Chiefs is in turn served by a number of * s i a 0flic ials i k f all ubord n te , men p c ed rom

ar for i k i i qu ters the r nowledge , the r dexter ty ” or i the r sycophancy .

T he s e s ubo rdina te individu als be c ome e nrolled in one of the l h re a hk o i tr u Maghk se n C ans . T e are fou r M g se n ( r Gu sh) ibe s (s bdivided into c l ans all Ara or Ara i ze d —T he S he ra a the Boua k har the ) b b z , , Oudaia a nd the S he rarda all of the m se ttl e d in tge orthe rn in dom , , N K g , w ith the e xc e tion of a c la n of the Oudaia s e ttled in the H aouz (South M oroc c o Tpe arris on of M arra e s h is e ntru ste d to the hamna g k R .

Ahmar b da M e na a and H ar il . T he se are not true G uis htri , , bb . b b e s . b ut a the na ib a l i e othe r s u mis si e tri T he dis tin c tion e t p y k b v be s . b w ee n a mba and Gu is htribe s c ons ists in the p aymentof tribute by the forme r nd he lia ilit o th lat o li a t b y f e te r t mi tary se rvic e alone . Besides the M aghk se n by birth there are others

a i i i i who tempor r ly belong to t by pos t on . Such are ai and ik s of i s the K ds She other tr be , the Ouma n a who are entrus ted with fin a ncial

i s and M a hk se n a i s s for dut e the g Secret r e , cho en an i penm sh p . The milita ry service (on which a fter all the a sis of s s vis nltima ratio b government mu t re t , ), has i a s i s , dur ng recent ye r , qu te gone to the dog , ” ir S . I n a s i a nd a ik old d y , under energet c w rl e

a s a w as f ssi a a f Sult n , the rmy pro e on l , power ul a n i i i f f i d s o a s se e a 1 . d c pl ned orce mercen r e , p ge 39 But in the middle of the last century this w as given up under the influence of a mistak en notion

H s and f s i a r of a n ation al levy . or e oot old ers e

i s of a ll in G is i s recru ted fir t the u h tr be , who are in a for i i bound , exch nge rem tted tr bute , to

i si is i s a i prov de recruits . Be de s th the tr be p y ng tribute (N aiba) are ca lled upon to s end the Sulta n

i H arka s a s of s Ashar the r ( ) qu dron hor e , or ( ) infantry companies to re - inforce the nucleus of

“ ” the Guish . T hen there is a s mall body of

Bokhari s a s of a s i , de cend nt Soud n negroe mported as a and a M eshonara s ia bodygu rd , fin lly the , pec l

All s s ma gu ards of the Pala ce . the e trooper y be despa tched on any erra nd as M akhazni (soldier Th i i i is and s ervants). e recru t ng s prom cuous old men and young boys a re often found marching i i i i i f i s de by s de . From a m l ta ry po nt o v ew

s is s i a a a ia the re ult de p c ble, they h ve no m rt l

ai i i a s are a i a and i tr n ng, the r we pon nt qu ted , the r hors es worn out .

T he loc a l government con sists of a series of K aids (governors) at the hea d of the various tribes ; each in his own s phere a little Sultan with all i a s a dmin stration in his h ands . But no mean s of enforcing his edicts is put into his h ands with

ffi it is s sa for a s a o ce, nece ry the Sult n to choo e man f n a i T he ai i o power a d uthor ty . K d s continua lly “ between the Devil and the Deep ” I i M hk S e a . f he s tud es the ag se n he oppres ses

s s zi a i the people he govern , quee ng the m x mum amount of tribute out of them by fa ir mean s or foul . I f he s tudies the interests of his people he s e t for T a doe not g enough money the re sury , for a a a i i s for i s f ari the P l ce uthor t e , or h m el , d s i i hi ome other s put n s pla ce . C H A E I PT R I .

ore i n R hts a nd r t n F g ig P o e c tio .

T re a ti s . A s i s of a i s s i s s v e long er e tre t e , omet me ob er ed

s i s k a at s in omet me bro en , h ve length re ulted pla cing the foreigner in Morocco in a s ecure

s i i . T s a i s i s a i po t on he e tre t e , wh ch t rted w th one

in fi in 1 i 1 A . D . 8 i a 3 39 , con rmed 35 , were or g n lly a pplica ble to all foreigners irres pective of

a i a i a i i i has n t on l ty , pr nc ple wh ch been returned to (to a la rge extent) in one of the latest

a s s of C f at greement , the re ult the on erence Alge c e ira s (s e e p age T he su m tota l ga ined has been reciproca l

f of a a nd f of a i reedom tr de , reedom tr vel w th * ce rtain olice recautions i s add p p , to wh ch we mu t the appointment of C on suls with the right of judging

as s aff i f i s s s c e , ect ng not only ore gn ubject , but tho e i f i i enjoy ng ore gn protect on . T his foreign protection mea ns the gra nting by an E uropea n G overnment of a certificate th at the pers on protected is connected by w ay of trade

ii T he se p re c au tions p rac tic ally me a n the hiring of one or more M ak hazni Go e rnme nt s oldie r s e r ants w ho are s u os e d to aflo rd ( v v ), p p fac il itie s for lodging and food e n rou te and to k ee p trave lle rs ou t of

da n e r whic h doe s not e is t . I n othe r w ords the are a nuisa nc e to g x ) , y l o l o is it yourse ( and the p e p e y u v . or other interest s with a member of their own

* T s i a s a a f o icial n ation . he e cert fic te p rt rom fi protection the protection afl orde d to L ega

i s and s i s a a are of t on the u te tt ched to them), two ” ” ki s 1 S u m sa and 2 M ohallat. nd ( ) the p , ( ) the

T e a i s i it f i and ak h first c rr e w th ull protect on , m es the n ative (or je w) enjoying it in cfiect a s ubje ct of

he a s the protecting Government . T l tter convey

ia i and part l protect on , only ensures the holder again st being arres ted or mulct of property with out the laying of information with the C on s ul of

i i a i a as the n at on wh ch gr nted the cert fic te , to n T h i i a is i a d . e of is wh t be ng done , why pr v lege th “ protection is absolutely neces sary for trade but i a d is t f in fa s s an oo a s . open to bu e , ( o ten ct) bu ed

C H A T E I I I P R .

A D nne r art in M oroc c i P y o .

The following sketchis a literal description of a dinner

art iven on m account writtcn u rom notes take n p y g y , p f at the time I have endeavoured to kee . p up the L ocal Colour by narrating itas a M oor would when giving an

if T his s ste m ori inate d unde r a tre at c onc lude d a th M a 1 6 y g y s y. 7 7 , e e n ui X and u ltan Moha ib ll be tw Lo s V. S mmed n Abda ah I t w as te nd in r86 on me d in 80 e ed and c r 1 8 . x 3 , fi

4 : accountto a riend The son introduced is not he f . g t song ac tuall sun atthe time but a translation o one used y g , f elsewhere on a similar occasion The descri tion o the . p f house is absolutel accurate thato the danc in irl is a y , f g g

“ little dressed u as a M oor would do it in ord r to p , , e ive a d o ast n ide l o b aut Th g n i ea f the E er a f e y . e language is modelled on that resulting from literal translation of

A rabi narrativ b an Burton nd t r c es L e a o he . y , s

it a A a * C as si a Now ple sed ll h , the omp on te, the

if i i ia of s i k ss Merc ul , to nfl ct up on me the tr l c ne , and during two days a nd two night s I lay sick And i o . da up n my bed the th rd y the Prophet ,

H a s si k s s a and the oly One, c u ed the c ne to ce se An i i to pass from me . d as I was recl n ng upon

’ M turb ah in a 10 k k at my T the g rden , , one noc ed

And a s and and f a the door . I ro e opened ound

ss f a nd s ai Ab d—e l me enger rom my lord ho t , Mul

“ “ k a . a . And der Pe ce be unto thee, quoth he ” T i hi s a on thee peace . hen del vered he s mes ge

L i s and a s My ord , the v rtuou the noble , h th ent me to a sk permiss ion for him to m ak e an enter

-nin t of d T he tw o fi rs t of the nine ty e at rib ute s Go . 7 Kind of mattre s s or divan .

T all of i i unto me . hey were men the grea tes t nob l ty and and a s and s a d and honour , they ro e lute me,

I them . At wa s a a a the upper end there l rge ch mber ,

i i a s a f it a open ng nto the h ll, ep rated rom by vast a nd fretted arch ; a nd the decoration of the chamber w as even more ornamenta l th an the i adornment of the hall . H ther we ascended * s i f durk a ah a and tepp ng rom the to the leew n , d flin s i s k s a s o g our l pper , too our e t upon the

e a and a s a of de w n , they g ve me the e t honour to the right of the centre of the sadn t And the c arpets upon the platform were of wonderful

and i ia s ik of texture br ll nt colour , l e unto those

i s and a a w as f i i K ng , the p rtment urn shed w th

i i and s i s cush ons covered w th brocade, mall p llow and long mattresses with silk - embroidered covers

i i s of s a s s uch as aston s h the m nd pect tor .

A a of se a his a s non , the m ster the hou cl pped h nd , and 10 ! there entered unto u s two black negres s

s of a and a s ak a in s slave , l rge h nd ome m e , cl d robe

si k i a s i a of flowered l , g rt below the bre st w th bro d

f i s i k and i si k sas a s s ashes o br ght l , br ght l hes l o

durk aah is the e ne ral le e l of the oor the le e w an is the T he g v fl , i h i As the latte r i usuall raise d p ortion ( ab ou t 6 nc e s hgh). s y c arp e te d e forme r is not sli e rs are dotted and le ft at the a se of the whilstth , p p b s tep or ledge . o e wa t T he up p e r p art f the l e n. A M OOR I S H D AN C E R

the Fou ntain in the H all By . (see p age 67 )

hi An in i a s encircled them below the p . d the r e r they bore large heavy gold earrings and gold a k s i s and i ai was a n let upon the r leg , the r h r dorned i w th circlets of pure gold .

of a for s a i One them brought the w ter lu tr t on , nd i * Af as i a the other ca rr ed the towel . ter w h ng a nd s a r a i s te a w as a the cu tom ry exho t t on , m de by the uncle of the Sheriff in his customary s k ilfu l

a ’ and s s s in m nner ,1 then other negre e brought the table and se t upon it a s uccession of dishes of every description .

! V a i s a fla s hen our ppet te beg n to g, our ho t ” a “ 0 a i a i i H arisa h c lled out , F t m , br ng h ther the , l and an is w as a f u s behold excellent d h pl ced be ore , whereof the flav ou ring had been adjusted in the n mos t delicious man er .

T sa i iff H as hen d the noble Sher to me , t thou tasted anything more delicious th a n the s pices in

is is and a s “ a of th d h , I n wered , By the be rd the

a and s ai “ E at Prophet , I h ve not , he d to me , " and as a and ate a nd more then , be not h med , I champed with my teeth to s how him my ap p re

4“ For illu stration of u and as in se e a e 2 for de s c ri tion f j g b , p g 59 ; p o hi a me ls s e a e s 8 and a n a e . w s g t , p g 7 7 9 ma in in M or c o s e e a e 80 uite n a hi s T e a oc is a rt. T k g , p g , q re ative of our hos t (an inmate of his hou se ) was ac knowle dge d fac ile " p rinc e p s. H aris ah a me a t uddin c ons is tin of whe a t oile d and re duc e d to t , p g g , b a a ste ithshredde d me at s ic e s and c ondime nts p W , p , . < ’ c iationfi A a for Zirb a ah f r non he c lled j , r and o K u drahi and every k ind of delicacy from which he could s elect the tit- bits and pl ace them before

i at i i a a had me , “ unt l length we nt m ted th t we had of s enough the meat . T hen caus ed he to be brought K unafe h§ and

a i s is of s s k a s a nd v r ou d hes weet , open wor ed t rt , f i s s i k n r tter cented w th mus . A d he made very

ss u s e at s a i “ T ak of merry and pre ed to , y ng , e

is is for it is and of s th d h excellent , the e for the u su al custom in my hou s e is to flavour i k n i T them profusely w th mus a d a mbergr s . hen

k in his s and i i it in he too one up finger , d pp ng

a T ak is sai “ f the tre cle , e th one , d he , be ore the f i syrup run s rom t.

nd a i i And we jes ted a te t ll we were s a t ated . T hen when the s la ve girls had brought round the

asi and i s a and f u s b n ewer w th o p , le t , he produced

“4 T his is s tric tly in ac c ord w ithtable eti ue tte in the E ast; an audible m nc hi n of food or a lou d indrawm of i uor is a oli te c om lim u . g q p p e nt ' to one s os t T his e r al e hortation of the hostto e at more whe . v b x — n the ap p e tite s e e ms to fl ag is truly M oorish e nj oyme nt of food the re imp lie s c omp le te re p le tion . A marina te d ra ou t a oured withc ummin s e e d T g fl v . owls c ut u and s te wed i th ar ous ic e s and swimmin in t F p W v i Sp , g thic ra w ith c ho e d mar oram slice d onions and k oosk oos se k g vy p p j , ( e illu s tration on p age n I t is u s u al to ta e a tit-b it and p ut i t be fore a gue s t whom one W i s he s to honou r . i rmic lli and sw e e t it 5 W he atfl our bake d l ke ve e e ned w hhone y . W S we e t astrie s made of our ho e and s esame oil e ate n with p fl , ny , , tre ac l s ru e y p . And from the b ack of the lee wan a jar of wine .

sa i “ D i k and he d to me , r n , let thy heart be merry , nd s a for a s ai a thy bo om bro den , wh t th the poet

I will drink the wine and e nj oy he al th i ase For ve rily this be ve rage is a re me dy for d se .

And b e filled the fir s t cup a nd dra nk itT and a s and a h a nd so h nded me the econd , then not er , round to all the guest s who pa rtook of win e ;

And se u s i k i u s a he pres d to dr n , tell ng th t the

i w as a f his own a s and w ne m de rom gr pe , by ‘ hi s Moslems upon s own e state .

had k a his a s and When we drun , he cl pped h nd bade them a dmit the s inging a nd da ncing girl s . C a llio p e . A nd there entered a troupe of eight girl s b earing i i and a u i s and all an of si a g mbr t mbo r ne , m ner mu c l i s s u a s i of a a k n trument , ” nder the le der h p bl c

s i a k man li b a ndma ter w th a ja . § And they played for u s a nd ravis hed u s with

i and 10 ! of a s a nd a del ght , one them ro e c me

I n re fe re nc e to m re c e nt s ic ne s s y k . t I t is the c u s tom i n the E ast for the hos t to drink the firs t c u p to s how the re is no ois on in the li uor q . I tis a ains t tpe ir re li ion to do s o and it is e r rare in M oroc c o t g g v y . x h h e cep t ani on st t e ighest c lass, whose s up e rior e duc a ti on ra ise s the m i above p re ju c e . T he fac t s ta te d that this wine w as made b M oors on his e s e i u ni ha h own tat s que . I v e ne ve r know n or e ar of a ny othe r c as e whe re the forbidde n li nor is handle d by any b utje ws o r h ti C ris ans . As I was de a lin w it one of the g rea test sai nts in the countr his s anc tit c o e re d e irre - rit M oors rll sa f h l y y v t gu a y. w y o o y me n thatw me b e c ome s w ate r as the drin i y k t. It T he im ri is a uita r withtw o strin s s e e a e 26 . g g , p g 4 An a(ga a i n of the 5 p tb t o Europ e an violin. f and s he w as of as si a and orward , surp ng be uty

i s s and a a nd s a a . lovel ne , eleg nce con umm te gr ce

I n a was a and s he a it in her h nd lute, pl ced her lap and le aning over it a s the mother le a neth over

i s he san it s her ch ld , g to thu

Our e s tran e me nt and hatre d oh whe n W ill the c e as e g , y , And p astp le as ure s re tu rn unto me ! ' Ne ath one roof ye s te re e n did w e joy in j oint p e ac e W ho so he e dle ss of e nvie r s as w e

But ortu ne e w ra e d u s and dis - union rou ht F b y b g , ' And ou r home s li e the de se rt so dre ar k , S a y e st thou to re linquishmy c har me r I ought ’ Ah m he arts b u t a re e l I fe ar y b , C e ase the n to u raid in m a ssion me le a e p b , y p v , ' Love of the e s e ve r fixe d in my he art 0 thou who art one thou h m aiththou de c e iv e g , g y f . M de o ion ne e r e ar t y v t c an v d p .

As she sang her companion s took up the refrain and it and a i i s s echoed , pl yed upon the r n trument

i ri i in m any d fferent va at on s . And the in strument a tion and singing of the dam s els w as lik e unto the notes of the bird s in

a a is s o a it a is ou r a s . P r d e , th t r v hed e r And the lord of the hou s e s e nt down to the s i i i s and m s i ia s fr i and i and ng ng g rl u c n u t w ne ,

ate a k and . they , dr n , were merry

A a his a s and 10 ! a non he cl pped h nd , nother a s a and s f u s and she was d m el c me tood be ore ,

ourse lves and saluted our entertainer and A Kora n i “ ret red . Bles s ed be H is N ame who re u nite th

T e x t. ” an d s epa rateth not again .

C H T E I AP R V .

rc ht tu r A i e c e .

l (a ) S ty e .

When the Arabs (the civilizing race) came into Morocco and converted the inhabitants to Moham

me danism did i an a i i , they br ng y rch tecture w th

! T is s i is a s asi for them h que t on not n wered e ly , they had but few opportunities of exercis ing the

art in the rude l ands in which they origin ated . T he earliest example of a Mosque is s uppos ed to

a at a f 0 A . D . is w as be th t Mecc , ounded 7 5 But th

i in i th . E s rebu lt the s century xpert , however . claim that the effects of des ert life are plainly “ h visible even in the mos t ornate arabes ques . T e ~ “ s a i a s and i of a pre d ng rche the dom ng the p lm ,

“ i s s of k s the l ght upport the tent , the notted rope

“ f i a a s o h de th t bound them together , the p ttern “ wrought by the wind upon the sand and the “ a s ma a in a a ai sc lloped hell , y be tr ced m ny d nty

“ se e i of a i and arabes que . We ev dence Byz nt ne

“ sia i f s a a s Per n n luence , but the bre th th t blow “ through them to - day is still the breath of the

" “ f s is i and . I n the de sert , re h , d t nct , proud ( ” Track o the Moors S bil Fitz erald . f , by y g )

is a i is s a s i in a i Moor h rch tecture u u lly tud ed Sp n , but I have s een enough in Morocco to indicate that there is there an unexplored mine rich with

i ha promise . I n a country where fight ng s been s o f and for i i s is requent , reverence old bu ld ng chiefly s hown by a rea dine ss to u se their parts for

i s it is i a s is a is new erect on , ndeed urpr e th t there so f of s o i a and i al a a much le t del c te poet c n ture ,

i its a ss a and ow ng, moreover , gre tne not to m rble

i s s s i k a s and a prec ou tone , but to br c , pl ter , rude ” h i f “ i a cement . T e s s ter towers o the G r lda in ” ai “ H as sa T in a a and Sp n , the n ower R b t , the

i K u tu b u ia in a ak s a re s k y M rr e h , the be t nown , a s of old is a i and ex mple Moor h rch tecture , the fines t ex amples of the decoration of this s tyle m * ay be s een on the towers in Morocco .

I t must not be forgotten that the chief efforts a t

‘ The p e riod whe n the se tow e rs w e re b ui l t se e ms to hav e b e e n almostu ni u s in the u e of a r d a ne l s tone w or i ila s c ve p k . S m r w o rk i s is i le o n t e towe rs and some ate s in a a t and in the ne i h ourin v b g R b , g b g rui ns of S he lla h. i i decora tion are m a de inside the buildings . T h s s

i a a for is i is i f a exceed ngly n tur l , the d t ngu h ng e ture of Moo ris h a rchitecture is orna ment a tion . Now the Moh ammed a n is forbidden by his religion to f T copy the figures even o n atura l obj e cts . here fore all the orn amentation is founded on a

i a as is and f a if are geometr c l b , wonder ully be ut ul

T a i in s f the designs . hey re ca rr ed out mosaic o

s s s i i and a in the mo t co tly de cr pt on , I h ve been priva te hous es of rich Moors which are covered f i i i i ai sai k rom floor to ce l n g w th nl d mo c wor , whilst the roof con sis ts of wooden carvings in

i i f i i a n extremely h gh rel e , enr ched w th colour d i h f n s et stones . T e towers o the mosques form the mos t striking external features : the minaret s from which the M u e ddhin c all s to prayer are often most

a if a nd a s of th s s be ut ul , the doorw y both e mo que a nd important private dwellings a re very fine Twith their horseshoe arches (borrowed origin ally from

assa ia s and i i i a i a the S n n ), the r ntr c te geometr c l i f design s . Lustred t le work }: is a a vourite orna

- and can be as well carried outto da as ever. ment , y I n the blending of colours the Moors s how

T he op p os ite p a e s how s two mosque tow e rs withp ra ye r flags flying and the M ue ddhin c ga ntin his a ll g c . l f S e e il us tration p age 44 . ll l a e uin z I S e e the i u s tration of the gate of Mansur ai A j (1 7 3 2) t M q e ,

p age 1 7 2. T H E M U E DDH I N C AL L S r o P AY E R R . ote the la l in N F g F y g .

a k a as a iki a i C ontra s t rem r ble t te , str ng contr st to the r

is i s i and b e tw e e n Jew h ne ghbour , who overdo the crud ty Je w s a nd a is i i g r hne ss of the r t nt s .

M oo rs .

(b ) Forms of Bu ilding.

' — The Mosque (M asjed j ama or Place of Common Prayer) con sists in its simplest form of an open c ourt (S alter) s urrounded by covered

C i s L iwan i a is M idaa f n ai lo ster ( ), w th c tern ( ) or ou t n

si a s (usually in the centre). On the de tow rd

a is a f i i M ak s u ra in Mecc roo ed bu ld ng ( ), the centre of wh ich is a niche (M ihrab) showing the direction

of a and i a f i M anbar . Mecc , by the n che lo ty pulp t ( )

I n a of a is a ais a f D akka p rt the l tter r ed pl t orm ( ), from which exhortations are chanted . T he ordinary private dwelling consists of an i a a i a a si of i rregul r qu dr l ter l , on three des wh ch run t 1 long rooms not more than o or 2 fee t wide . T h f i i i i T h e ourth s de s g ven over to the k tchen . e central court thus formed is usually open to the sk s u a a i y, but urro nded by covered colonn de wh ch s s The u is a upports a econd story . co rt p ved with

4 I n M oroc c o u sual ly c ove re d by a v aul te d roof s u p orted b horse shoe arc h u l tood e s o s q u are p i lars . I s one night in fi trak at the e ntranc e to a la rge mo na du rin s e rvic e a nd rea lise d the ma mfic e nt te ntial itie s for v is ta p o e e c ts of t is arc h. S ee n by artifi c ia l l gbt the i p c ture w as mostimp osing. d i tiles an somet mes the dado also . A fountain f s in “ of s o ten gurgle the centre . One the mo t notable peculiaritie s of Moorish Domestic Archi

“ sa s . Bu d e tt aki is tecture , y Mr g Me n , the absolute irregularity of the whole : it is not too much to s ay that save by accident no two lines are i i f ever par allel or hor zontal . For a descript on o an i i in a ak s se e a a nd for a n nter or M rr e h p ge 43 , account of the ordinary Fez hous e s e e pages 1 66 and 1 67 .

"< T he Kubba s (or Shrines) which are dotted a ll over the country are jus t plain s quare walls with a

i of s a dome perched on top , the dome be ng m ller a a a t a s a a s a of a re the b e th n the w ll , to llow

i — s a cop ng u u lly the only attempt at orna ment . T hey a re k ept well whitewashed and often fit mos t

' i s i a s a see rontis iece p cture quely nto the l nd c pe ( f p ).

T he i s i ai s i a i s a f n de cont n noth ng but h ng ng , e w i nd i i s s a a s ff i . h deou p cture , v r ou trumpery o er ngs

9 T he re are c e rtai n e dific e s b uiltbe s ide the tombs of s aints inhabite d M ara outs Morab e t whic h are c alle d Zaouia and w hic h ofte n by b ( ), , c ontain a fe w oo s a nd are tre u e nte d s tude nts T ol a of the b k , q by b ) e w orthie ori inate d a t a tim whe n t e u s l M arabout. T he s s g e M s e man b o i at h - a frontie rs we re gu arde d f rts (R b ). T e M o r b at ( M ar a bout) wa the u ard of the R1 yat and ac uired sanc tit w a in hol s g , q y by g g y l w ar in border forts against infide s .

isi i i T he a exqu tely nla d . s cabb rds of swords and

a s are a s a a a of d gger l o el bor tely dorned , the whole

e i a in a s them b ng m de the country except the bl de ,

i are i f i i a wh ch now mported rom B rm ngh m , as

in i A s fr D a a they were the M ddle ge om m scus .

Po te T he is f s e s i . T he t ry . pottery o ten unju tly d p sed f s a re a nd s i is s i orm excellent , the l ght blem he wh ch

s eem to be insepara ble from purely hand- worked

T he k i a rticles a re of s mall importance . wor s mostly blue on a W hite ground ; but some fine examples of green a nd white or other colours c an

l u r S ee . 1 2 i l t ation . of} be found . ( p 9 cf s pp 2 63

The s a re ski fu in i s i k and C a rp e ts . Moor l l dye ng l

and s of i si k i is wool , ome the r l embro dery very

ee illustra tion a e T i effective . (S p g h s skill is excellently exemplified in the weaving

a nd i of a s for i a a is s dye ng c rpet , wh ch R b t ju tly

T he i a of a e i s in famous . mport nce the c rp t ndu try tha t town is indica ted by the fa ct that to are turned out every year at an average

i . A 2 00 va lue of {2 1 05 . to 3 per p ece bout

a re in a fa i is hou ses employed the m nu cture , wh ch

T he a s are carried out entirely by women . c rpet

as D aa 1 f and in me ured by the r ( g eet), the colouring only vegetable dyes are allowed by the

ee a e M ohtas se b (T own Authority). (S p g Tiles are for the most part manufactured at Fez T il e s .

T s of f i are and T etuan . ho e the ormer c ty the

nd re in s a s best , a a turned out qu re , cut down to the required s hape by the man l aying them : the

are of s a i and are latter made the h pe requ red , * i S ee a es 1 6 and inferior in qu al ty . ( p g 7

A C H PT E R V I .

Sho n p p i g .

One of the Moors who had come to L ondon on a diplom atic mission w as walking through the

“ ” s E nd and ki in s i s . We t , loo ng the hop w ndow Seeing some ta blet s of soa p expos ed for s ale in one of a s a is s for a a i the celebr ted e t bl hment th t rt cle , i he went in s de and ask ed the price . When the as s is a him i ia ff a f and t nt told , he mmed tely o ered h l , expressed his s urpris e at having s eemed to give f H i i f f . s s s w as a a or a o ence urpr e n tur l , th t pro cedute is the recognis ed method in his own

aff i is e country , where ch er ng exp cted over the si s a i “ All s a k in ai mple t rt cle . good m r ed pl n

s i k in E l figure s a motto un nown M ogre b . I n a - i as s a th t easy go ng country , you troll long the s treet you will find a gre a t fas cin ation in the i s T he f i s i i f l ttle booth . ollow ng de cr pt on rom

i s of a saw a 2 00 W ndu , who wrote wh t he ne rly

e a a o is fe a i a - da and I i y r g , per ctly ppl c ble to y, g ve

a a a s i i in the extr ct r ther th n my own de cr pt on , order to s how the con servatis m of the E as t

“ T he s hop s are very smal l a nd ha ve no doors “ to them : but the mas ter h aving opene d the

“ s s in and si s ss - e a shutter , jump t cro l gged upon place raise d about the height of a counter ; the

“ s are is s in a s a him good d po ed dr wer round bout ,

“ i c an a for s a i wh ch he re ch , the mo t p rt , w thout

“ i of his a his s s s a i mov ng out pl ce , cu tomer t nd ng ” “ in i the s tree t wh le they are served . When you walk up to the shopk eeper and a sk a a i a ak s fa bout the rt cle th t t e your ncy, you would

ak ia a k s do well to m e deprec tory rem r , never s ak sias i a in E is for pe enthu t c lly even ngl h , your tone i a m s a . w ll betr y you , though your word y not T he dignified gentleman who displays the goods

i is s s a i a nd if ask w ll d cu the m tter w th you , ed the i ff m i am it. a f and a pr ce w ll n e You o er h l , he y s ak his a and st ma h e he d prote , or y even gently ak a i f a and e it t e the rt cle rom your h nd replac .

T he s a s i i in and ak a k s by t nder w ll jo n m e rem r , and be fore the barga in is concluded there is often quite a little public ass embly discussing the pros

ons I f are i s i s f a nd c . you buy ng everal th ng rom the sa me shop ge t the dealer to give you his price sepa r ately and m ake a b id for the lot . Further up the street you are perh aps moved yourself to m ak e one of a pa rty of critics and

i i f e t enjoy the barga n ng o others . Should you g tired of this you may find a conjurer or s n ak e

a a s and if A a i ch rmer or tory teller , even your r b c be not good enough to follow all the points in his

a a i i i h it is ac i t le , the p ntom me w th wh c compan ed and the express ion on the faces of the audience will interes t any observer with a taste for human n ature . One word to the fair s e x and I h ave done with I f will i this s ubject . you wear that wh te linen

s in i k s o a i a a co tume wh ch you loo ch rm ng, m d m , do not expect to come back s potless from a

i i i E if r i i s hopp ng exped t on . ven you a e r d ng (and I advis e the humble ass ) the fittings of the a nimal ma a a ark and i y le ve m or two , the contacts wh ch i k are a i a . And you obl ged to m e w ll le ve more , do

s k if a a not be hoc ed , you find th t Mohammed n fleas a re not under a vow of abstinence from the blood of C is i s hr t an . T E I C H AP R VI .

a r Ap p e l .

C s a i s in a i o tume v r e very much Morocco , ccord ng

a i a i i and si i as as to n t on l ty , tr be , po t on , well

s I t i i per onal tas te . must not be m ag ned that the

sa ia a a a is a a of i iff rtor l ppe r nce m tter nd erence , express direction s are laid down on the s ubject i i n a . i the Kor n No Moor , however r ch , w ll

a a si k ss it is f i s i k we r l dre , orb dden , though l tassels and some very limited silk embroidery are

a a . G si a s s llow ble old and lver dornment , jewel ,

&c . f i so a a are , are orb dden ; th t , though w tches

a s i ‘ not uncommon mong t the r ch , they wea r no

si ai s si k s . gold or lver ch n , only l en cord

I i s s i s s a a tw ll be be t to de cr be fir t the mo t el bor te , and a detailed description of a costume of the

i s as s s a i iff h ghe t cl , pre ented by r ch Sher to the pres ent writer will serve as a text (se e page

” i s is S e rwal s a s S e rw a l . F r t , there the , loo e dr wer worn

ki T a r and un next to the s n . hey e very baggy

s a and a re a at ais a h ped , dr wn together the w t by running cord (“ T u k k ah T hey are fairly tight

jus t below the k nee and may be of any colour . T hey must not be longer than is neces sary to M U O NT AI N B E R BE R S I n the ir T ribal re ss D . see page 65)

leather ba se e i s . 6 and i s s all ( g), F g 7 , wh ch erve the f E uses o the uropean s ys tem of pock ets . I t is s us pended over the left shoulder by a bundle of silk cords woven together in places but

left loo se at the s houlders .

“ ’ Fa rr a is s i a Farra e e ah M arwan Next l pped on j y j ,

“ M ans u re e ah Fi . 8 of a s a or y ( g ) tr n p rent cotton , s ufficiently fine to let the colour of the K aftan

i a i f s how through . T h s gain s open rom the neck to the wa is t and fas tened by loop s and knots ; it

has a s i at s i and is a s i d i a l t the de , l o prov de w th hood at the back which may be worn loose (and

a s k perh ps u e d as a poc et) or drawn over the head . Over this hangs the K oomee yah (dagger) sus pended from the shoulder by an arrangement of

silk cords . Finally we have the S oulham a hooded cloak

in i s i e for s a woven one p ece, t tched togeth r the p ce of one inch merely in order to k e ep the hood in

osi i . T is is f ia C s p t on h the only o fic l ourt co tume , the hood is usually drawn loos ely over the hea d

a is a k in k of . or turb n , but thrown b c to en respect When entering the pres ence of H is S he re e fian M ajes ty the left end must be thrown back to

s s i as hi how that no arm are be ng worn , t s h is (for obvious reasons) strictly forbidden . T e “ Algerian S oulham is k nown as the Burnoos .

T he a se e i . 6 and is s a turb n ( F gs , 7 , not u u lly

i and its s i s worn by unmarr ed men , ze depend to some extent upon the status of the wearer ; a very ” i a ff f “ s e mport nt person must su er rom well d head ,

nd hi I t si s of a a s turban corres ponds . con st long piece of cloth (that illustrated is 1 2 feet long by 3 f i and is is i a e s a e and eet w de), tw ted nto pprov d h p f f the loose end tuck ed into one o the olds . T he

is i i s in a colour wh te un ver ally Morocco , lthough ” the “ S horfa (des cendants of the Prophet) h ave ht the rig to wea r green .

As s a s are “ a a the e g rment not m de to me sure, Be l t.

’ the length is regulated by a M dammah (belt) h worn over the M ansu re e yah. T e good ones are a of a i a f - m de le ther covered w th elt cloth , and often gaily adorned with s ilk threads and * a s p ngles . T he slippers (S rilzsi) of the men are plain in and s are are colour , the be t yellow, they worn

’ with or without sock s The ladies s lippe rs for indoor wea r are very elaborately a e i s a e a and i k dorn d w th t mp d le ther , gold s l

i ass s &c . embro dery, t el ,

W he n S ir ic hard Burton w as e ui in himse lf for his il rima e R q p p g p g g , he b oughta b eltof Mooris hmanufac ture ) K s a h. si s a a s is - of Be de the bove g rment , there the out door cloak of (us ually cream coloured) woollen

a ia a six and a a f a s m ter l , bout h l y rd long by one

and a a f tw o a s i i a f i at h l to y rd w de, w th r nge

. i i Bu d both ends T h s s what the late Mr . ge tt

’ ” k i a s “ sa and is us for Mea n c ll the Lordly K h , ed I i out of door wear in the cooler weather . t s

f a s s s s and olded round the body , cro the houlder ,

e a s i s of t is s as iffi over the h ad, by er e w t d cult to des cribe and as easy to perform as those of the

turban . A less el aborate costume is illustrated on page

2 6 Fi . and sis s of a ai of a a s 5 , g 5, con t p r b ggy dr wer ,

i ais a Badai ah and s a ke t ght w tco t ( y ), hort j c t

abadar i i s s i is (j ) w th t ght leeve , over wh ch h sometimes drawn a S oul am (as illustrate d). But apparel like this is only possible to thos e

ff i s are f a whose worldly a a r com ort ble ; the poor,

r those who wish to a ear oor a o pp p , we r but two or

a s a a i of a a D a a and D three rment , p r dr wers , jell b h , j e ll a b a h. g T he “ D a is a perhaps a shirt . jell bah prob bly the in mos t us eful combination garment the world . I t con sis ts of a rectangular piece of woven woollen

s f i a k - cloth , clo ed down the ront w th nec hole cut

f and i f a out o the centre jo ned to orm hood, the

r s a sid i sleeves a e very hort , but mple , con er ng that the width of the garment exceeds

i se Fi 1 0 on a e ts length ( e g . p g

A ia a i of Ak n pecul r v r ety the e e l . ” D a a is “ Ak ne e f a a k jell b h the , d r

’ ak of a s i i a clo go t ha r , w th l rge patches of a lighter colour on

T he i i in the back . var at on the patches denote the clan of the

T is is ss of wearer . h the dre r L ady in S tree tAtti e . the Berbe r tribes of the Middle Atlas (see illustration on page So far we have only been concerned with the

i f T a of s s a i cloth ng o men . h t women pre ent l ttle

iffi e a of more d culty , b c use the women the upper class are carefully secluded in the privacy of the

T he are i o H a rem . poorer women obl ged to g

d si of s i & c . an s hopp ng, , we con equently catch ght i f H k them swathed n the clos e folds o the ai .

’ T his H aik is a variation of the Ksah the final fold of which is brought acros s the forehea d ju st a s and f a k bove the eye , then olded down e ch chee ik f are s l e the hood o a nun . When men pre ent the right fold is held up horizontally leaving jus t " s llustratio above a peep hole ( ee i n ).

“ " I n the T ale of the Porte re s s the e rrin ife oe s s ho in , g W g p p g w ra e d in he r H ai and ac c om ani ed b an o om A mo ou ld w an . n a r s p p k , p shop ke e p e r Will only p artwith a muc h ye s ire d p ie c e of c loth for the i h m L t a . T he Fez women rely for their protection on a

“ i s i i L i a i a wh te mu l n ve l th m , wh ch p sses over

i of s H aik i the br dge the no e , the only be ng used

for a and fa i dr pery not ce cover ng .

S l ip p e rs . T he of s i s are of a s a out door l pper co r e red le ther , ” and o a of “ T ak as hir s g by the n me , tho e worn i s a a se e a 2 60 . is ndoor el bor te , p ge jewellery Je w e ll e ry . an a s and a k s worn to y extent ; br celet n let , finger i i k s a s a s i s for ai &c . r ng , e rr ng , nec l ce , c rclet the h r , T he love of gay a pparel and personal adornment s eem s to be as prominent with them a s with their

f a is i s I t s f en r nch ed s ster . mu t not b e orgotten that an import ant rite in the marriage ceremony ” is the “ dis play of the bride to her hu sband in

a i s k i f o tn rr w v r ou nds o be dizenment ( f e bo o ed). A vivid description of an official vis it to the She re e fian Court at Fez is given by Monsieur

i he “ i V aud Pierre L oti in ArtM aroe . T th ng forbidden is always s pecia lly sweet to a literary

a and i his a a is i audace tr veller , w th ch r cter t c , our author violates propriety by visiting the roof at

s s s of air i the un et hour , the ole hour open l berty

he l d old ou the fold of h H ai in s uc h a wa p ric e of a kiss . T a y h s t t e k y i T he ide a tha the c an p u t his he ad u nde r i ts c ove r a nd ta ke his p r c e . of c onc e al in the mouth is to ta e a w a the oss i ilit of a is s w hic h g k y p b y k , “ e ro v e r oe s tha t a is c onside re d a de se c ra tion of he r ho nou r . T h p b g w oman who a llows a is s re fu se s nothin and the M os le ms are ri ht k g , g “ from the omt of V ie w of the e xc lus i v e p osse s sion the ory of s e x ua l l i re at ons ip . h H e s i se enjoyed by t e women . de cr bes the clo ly pac k ed roof- tops common to most Oriental towns

se e a s 2 1 2 and a i s i ( p ge 5 , 3 , the l d e unve led (confiding in the abse nce of men) who visit one a i s rai a ki f f nother w thout re t nt , w l ng rom roo to

f a of a k s a s a e for roo by me n s pl n or l dder , pl c d

i i ss s a s “ s the r conven ence by the negre l ve , who e

i s are ik s i a s and a s ik vo ce l e hr ll r ttle , m nner l e " s f k T i a a sis s of tho e o mon eys . he r pp rel con t loos e tunics of silk stitche d and embroidered with

of s i a i gold , or figured mu l n worn over br ght * - T i re coloure d under garment . he r s leeves a long and i i a s a and i i a w de , the r rm b re c rcled w th br ce

T he s i s f lets . two mo t consp cuou s part o the costume are (1 ) the deep belt (H azzam) of richly

i si k f i s i s embro dered l , o ten ncru ted w th jewel (real ” or fals e) ; and (2) the “ H amtuz a light silk k i f i - s a a T he erch e , cover ng a cone h ped p per c ap .

is s iff in f and ff f i o cap t ront , the stu all ng lo se

i i - i a k ff is . beh nd , m tre l e e ect produced

When telling his favourite Yarn 1' about an old woman disguising a man as a fem ale to gain

' Calle d D Fe e n se e u re of Danc in G irl a e , fig g , p g 44 . “ “ ” 1 I u se the w ord Yarn advise dly ; the s e s torie s of intrigue are l f ir ic h rd u sua ly als e . S R a Bur ton sa ys : During the C ri me an W ar hundre ds of offic e rs n lis h re nc h and I talia ns e c ame fa miliar with . E g , F , b C onstantinop le and c laime d c onq ué te s I do not be lie ve that a Single ” de M le rn ase o bona fi os c c c urre d. a i a his is s l dm tt nce to love , the Moor h tory tel er ,

i if ai a a s “ noth ng not det led , n rr te : She dyed the

i s of his s i a k his is s t p finger w th henn , dec ed wr t

i a e s a his ai i na w th br cel t , decor ted h r w th the or * me nte d strings of s ilk a nd cla d him in feminine ‘ i f apparel . I ncl ne thy le t s hou lder back and right

’ ” f a a nd a k i a i i h a s e . orw rd , w l w th roll ng g t , quoth

Of cours e all this elegance only exist s amongs t

a a nd en rande tenue modifi we lthy women g . But

i s f i ar a ll h cat on o t e dopted by a . T e garment

a a a “ i is i s a bove c lled tun c , llu tr ted on the T uM C . i T he i in oppos te page . country g rl the centre is dressed in plain material ; but it is worn and

n a s a f i suspended i the s me manner a th t o the r ch . T he pair of pin s is mos t ingen ious in con struction (for a full sized photo of one with a note on its

u se s e e a , p ge

T he divis ion of labour us ual between the s exe s in E urope is reversed ; in Morocco women weave

s and ai i and ss the cloth , men do the t lor ng dre

making .

it Ov e r the fore he ad the hair is c ut short; b ut two full loc ks b an ac m tim rl d down on e ac h s ide of the f e , s o e es c u e some time s p lai te T he re st of the hair is arran e d in fromtw e l e to fte e n l aits or raids g v fi p b , t T he se raids are te rmina te d ha in attac he d to e ac h w orn p e ndan . b by v g of the m thre e lac s il s trin s e arin atthe ir e nd fl at old orname nts b k k g , b g g ” ’ T his is c alle d the S afa the sil s trin s are c alle d D fe e rah. , k g

I I I C H APT ER V .

Some Cu rsory Re mark s on the M oroc c a n

u m n s H a itie .

(a ) L a n gu a ge a nd L ite ra tu re .

Although Morocco is mainly Berber and not

a i in s i a s k is Ar b c blood , t ll the l nguage po en

A i I a t are is i s rab c . do not mean th t here no d tr ct in which this is not the case ; but roughly speak ing itis a s correct as the statement that the langua ge of the United Kingdom is E nglish . T he reason for the predominance of Arabic lies in the fact tha t the Kora n is written in that

and as in i s tongue, here all countr e where the

i i is as a k all rel g on b ed upon boo open to , the l a nguage employed in that book has fixed the ir i a st anda rd of style and grammar . S R ch rd Bu rton has remark ed upon the variou s opinion s ' expres sed by philologist s upon the s ubject of

A a i nd its ia s T he i of i i r b c a d lect . we ght op n on s eems now to be th a t the dialectic variation s in * r are com arativel i Mo occo p y un mportant .

W he n tra e llin in c om an of a Britishoffi c ial whose os ition in v g p y , p E gyp t and tas te for lingu istic studie s ha d give n him an inti ma te nowled e of Ara ic a s s o e n in t I as e d him for his o inion of k g b p k E gyp , k p M oorishAra ic as c om a re d the re w ith H e re lie d that he was struc b . p k li ff to fi nd how s ght the i e re nc e w as . I n st ating that the Arabic of the Koran form s a a a I is a i ll f st nd rd , w h to vo d a a ppear ance o

i a it is A contend ng th t a model . s Burton

a k s a is a a rem r , th t no more true th n the st tement th at modern E nglish is modelled on the E nglish

“ i a a is L s . ss B ble or P r d e o t Neverthele , the influence of thes e “ well s of pure E nglis h is i s and i mmen e la st ng.

e s is f a of Po m ex ted be ore the d ys Mohammed , i I but they were not wr tten down . ndeed , they would probably not have been read if they had i been . T o th s day recitation has its true home in E as A man sk i in a i ‘ E l the t . lful re d ng

’ ’ M u tane b b i and the Sus pended Poe ms would be received by the Ar abs of the plain with the honours paid by civilisation to the and the enthusiastic a udience who hang breathles s on the lips of the Moorish reciter show the f a i i o an pro oundest pprec at on . G to y town or

k ma k and at s of da Sou ( r et), the clo e the y you

i s w ll find the reciter and his a udience . Ge ture and all the artific e s of the trained elocutionis t are

S ir . Burton who roc e e ds to State thatthe are c ritical audie nc e s R , p y he withre gard to acc e ntuation and e loc ution. H e ins tanc e s that w n Bu rc hardt who s o e adl e an to re ad e rse to the m the k , p k b y . b g v y " d i n n l fr m i han ds T he wax e imp at e t a d w ou d snatc h the book o h s . s u sc e p tib ilit of the M oo rs to the ap p e al of p oe try may b e abu ndantly c e d e l e l M nmin a dl instan . he n in the tw fth c e ntur A . O . Ab d y , , b y ne e ded re c ru i ts for S ain he se ntre c ite rs rou nd the c ountr and me t p , y ,

i h e n husia ti re s o s id l b n Khaldun I . w t an t s c p n e . V e , 49 familia r to these adept s (although they naturally a n i a s s of v ry very much i sk ll). When our m ter elocution introduce music as a n accompaniment

i f a are f i to the r per orm nce , they but ollow ng the

i A of s Moor sh custom . story teller note goe a i a as sis a s s his bout w th regul r t nt , who ummon

i T he a ac t s and make the collection. ud ence, choru , a i i i K arriafl ah a i and s i n t ve v ol n ( j ) t mbour ne , ngle

r T he drum a e the usual in s trument s employed . mu sician s not merely as semble the audience but

a f a and at i s punctu te the per orm nce , even t me s n a i is i k of upply a accomp n ment . Nor the tr c leading up to an exciting s itua tion which is “ to i ” k be cont nued in our next altogether un nown . But this determination to break off c an usually be i " unbent by a sat s factory T e mp itation.

(b ) M u s ic a nd S in gin g.

T he si a i s s se e i s a i s a mu c l n trument , llu tr t on p ge

2 6 in u se in o are : T he Gimbri 4 , mostly Mor cco ,

(Fig . 5) a kind of guita r with two or three s trings

—s i s of s s r i d omet me the rude t con t uct on ; the fi dle V io l . (K amanjah) which res embles in con s tr u ction a E Fi i uropean violin ; the lute ( g. 4) w th * i ai has f i ia is u s Ghaitah wh ch Sp n am l r ed ; the ,

Fi 2 a k i of fla e ole t a fife S hibbabah ( g. ) nd g ; reed ( ) the ordin ary in s trument of the s n ak e ch a rmer ;

i D arbukhah i the double t a mbour ne ; the , wh ch

sis s of a a i ai k i con t cl y cyl nder , g ly dec ed w th

i a ss a C a s a ne ts s and a i sk i s s t . r bbon h v ng n tretched cro e ch orifice ; tin cast anet s (K arakub) and v ariou s Dmm ' form s of drums

si s s s a b e i s Be de the e , the Scot m n would ntere ted

Ba i e . gp p in Z ummarah a ki of a i s the , nd b gp pe u ed by the

i i i I t sis s H ghl anders of the R ff mount a n s . con t

of a ai of i s p r curv ng horn , fitted to reed or

i s i ai s s and wooden p pe , wh ch cont n the top , a tta ched to skin s inflated by a mouthpiece (se e

i i I t s e s i s ai llus trat on). e m cur ou that mount n

a s a far a a a a s r ce , no m tter how p rt , h ve lmo t i “ k i f i invar ably evolved a nd o bagp pe .

I n con sidering their rude con struction the “ s uperior person s hould not forget tha t the se

a re a s of s of i s the p rent mo t the modern n trument s . T he s tra ngene ss and l ack of h a rmony which they produce to e ars trai ned to a ppreciate the musical

T he re are fou r s trin s tune d to G A D of the tre le c le f g E , , , b T he ins tru me nt I S la e d li e a inandol ine itha one i or or horn p y k , W b , v y , l p e c trum. * - nd a s refinements of piano organ s a gr mophone , are largely due to the music of the Moors being b ased on the pentatonic and not on the regul ar

E uropean oc tatonic sc ale . Wh at is the effect produced by these strange i i i i so a ! C n struments, so pr m t ve yet popul r ome into yonder coffee house with crumbling wall s I n a and low doorwa y. T the v ulted room

s a lie s ki and i k i ff Moors qu t or , mo ng dr n ng co ee , a and we drink a nd s moke with them . Soon group of musicians in one corner begin to pla y

— e a s a and in si and chant w ce e to ch tter , lence " “ a lend our e rs .

h si is i i i and sa a T e mu c sweet , pr m t ve v ge ,

At s making a thrilling appe al to the sen ses . fir t

a a the stra ngen e ss grates upon us . But gr du lly,

f darb ukk ah a s the low measure d echo o the , the

’ ’ imb ri s as and i ai i ai g r p , the v ol s pl nt ve w l grow

fa i ia in a i k more m l r, the melody ever m nor ey, i its s a a moti its s w th con t ntly repe ted f, low rhythm , its plaint in drea my monotones win s its w ay into

A ro s of ramo hone s I ma re mar thatamon st“ ro re s s i e p g p , y k g g v Moors o the u e r l h p p c ass t e are aining muc h p op upari ty. T he re cords most a re c iate d are tyose oginstrume ntal mus ic e s e iall p p , p c y that rforme d full orc h t an r d by e s ras d military b as s ban s . he se afes are s me v C o of good, some of e xl re p u te ; some are in aulte d rooms li e the one ta e n as a n e am le he re othe rs o e n ou t v k k x , p of a roofle s—s c ourtyard attac hed to a Fond But all are c e ntre s of g s si ; and the Pre s s be ing one of the c urs e s of c ivilisation unknown to tlpe bp or—the see e r afte r truthW lll s ome tim find i he re k es t . ai and so s it i a i the br n othe nto dre ms . Rea l ty fa de s and we s urrender to a feeling of the

s of i s as i g pre ence th ng long p t , old memor es , va ue

’ as i a i s f a a i T i p r t on rom v n s hed youth . s like the ho arse murmur of the se a on a pebble beach ; ff a i a s s i . the s me yet d erent , th t oothe yet thr ll s

(c ) A Na tiv e Poe t.

I t would be futile here to attempt any rem a rk s i A a i a . L ite ra ture on r b c l ter ture For an interesting a ccount

f f a thereo I would re er re ders to Reynold A .

’ “ ” N icholson s L iter ary H istory of the Ara bs

is i . I t ma of i (F her Unw n) y, however, be ntere st to add a fe w w ords des criptive of a distinctively

a i a is i i H a s s s n t on l Moor h poet , S d mmo , who e ver e h ave been admirably rendered from the Shluh f * ia . . L . . s o a d lect by Mr R N John on , Mog dor . I n Fa dma the poet pa ints an a utobiogr a phica l i p cture concealed by mystic s ymbolis m . Yet he is fully unders tood and a ppreciated by his rustic

a i n s H e s a ai Fa a ud e ce love m d, dm by

Fa tima . a a i s a i i in a n me, he g n her love by ch mp on ng her

H is olume e ntitle d atima w as u lis hed b the M e b -a l F , b y v p . " " A sa the rinc i al M ooris ournal n nte d in n lis h at an l e r k , p p s E g g

T he introduc tion and admtrab e .

i a H a i ik Bac knish wh ch we c rry to m d Ould She ,

L of G e daadra . T w o s a s a in ord t tely Moor , cl d ' " white flowing S ou lhams a with the hood thrown

a k so a s s a a a as b c to how the turb n , dv nce we

is and i i a s ss i d mount , , hold ng out the r h nd , pre the r

fi i s s . T is k is s ngert p to our h done they them ,

a nd a i f as a i pl ce them on the r le t bre t , greet ng i wh ch we imitate . T hes e are the mas ter of the

s and his a nd f hou e brother , we con ound ourselves

in a i mutu l compl ment s . After entering the door in the wa ll I find

s f in a s a a s i s of i my el qu re courty rd, two de wh ch are formed by the house a nd two (s e t at a right

a ngle) by the outer wa ll . T hen through an archwa y and up s tone s teps to a s quare and

i s s a - s w ndowle nte room on the fir t floor , whence

- h i i we issue into the guest c amb e r. T T h s s a room

a in i its i a i n rrow proport on to length , w th w ndow a t one end and a doorwa y at the other the room is f a 0 f and i a lo ty ( bout 3 eet) w th wooden , be m

ss i i . The a s a re of ai a s cro ed ce l ng w ll p nted pl ter , s urmounted by a carved a nd painted wooden

T he s r of a i friez e . floor a e cement l d upon

af s and i s a a s wooden r ter covered w th tr w m t , on top of which are thrown gaily coloured hand

” ll See p age 62. 1 S ee i ustration, p age 254. M o omsrr BAR BS

s ( ee p ages 75 (S , 24)

s ia i sis s of s i oc l c rcle con t the two brother , the r

fa a i iff a i and s f. T w o rm b l , my comp n on my el

s a s i in a a i te a i s negro boy l ve br ng tr y w th th ng ,

and s a te a i f s the u u l green , wh ch now orm the

a i a i k is a . T s asse s n t on l dr n , m de hree cup or gl Gre e n T e a . a re de rigeur if you would observe the laws of

s i al i so f s i it af ho p t ty , but re re h ng do I find ter my

’ long day s journey that I imbibe seven before I i finis h . Bread bak ed n s mall loaves resembling

a s s is in k l rge round cone brought , bro en by the i i host into quarters and distributed . T h s s the

- k ia of s i a i k as well nown ceremon l ho p t l ty, nown

“ aki T - e t bre ng bread. hen the slave boys s two i T d shes in the midst of the circle . hes e are two la rge earthenware p latte ns se t upon woode n trays a nd s urmounted by conical coverings of pla ited * s a . T ai a as i tr w hey cont n whe t p try w th honey,

s a and a i s i s ug r butter, fl voured w th p ce , the whole

i e s s an s i k Af is is h nt n ely weet d t c y . ter th d h as

W hin . a s g been removed the boys bring round a brazen jug ’ and ewer ; r one pours water over our right hands

i s i i wh l t the other dr es them w th a towel . We

i a for a i it is employ only the r ght h nd e t ng,

k u se f unluc y to the le t . Nex t comes our sheep

a of in s a i s s d and (or p rt her) cut up m ll p ece , tewe ,

S e e illustration a e 2 8 . Se e illus tration a e 2 . , p g 5 t , p g 59 * Af r is Koo s k oo s . placed in a mound of K oosk oos . te th

— - a nother wa shing then a course of water melon

i i a is of K oosk oos cut up nto sl ces ; then nother d h ,

is i ai i a f a s s o th t me cont n ng ro sted owl , l o cut up A i as to be more eas ily manipula ted . ga n we

a ai a - is in w s h and ag n a w ter melon brought , then appears a third K oosk oos containing liver and

i Af a ai a i var ous sala d vegetables . ter g n w sh ng and eating water - melon the final was h w a s

i S mok in . concluded with a rinsing of the mouth . I l ght a g

i a a i a s his i a s c g r , my comp n on p s es round c g rette (French abominations) but only one of the Moors — will s mok e the s eductions of my L ady N icotine s eem not to appeal to the great bulk of the Moors with whom I have come in contact . +

[I leave specially insisted on detailing the amountof washing thatgoe s on in order to remove any imputation

it T his Koosk oos se e age 258) c onsis ts of whe a tnodule s (from whc h p " is made in E n la n variou s muc h adve rtise d “ p a te nt bre a ds ) ca lied ” the M oors me ad I tis c are full w ashe d a nd s te ame d so tha t it by . y re s e m le s when he a ed to e the r an e rec tion of e llow - white s mall shot b p g y , w i th of o mo h o l o h c urs e far re c o e si n and a softne s s a l its w n. T e ste we d me at is p u t into a hollow made in the top of the Koos koos ; oli e s tu rni s and othe r e e ta le s c row nin the ile T he s tart is v , p v g b g . ma de b bre aking 011 p ie c es of bre ad and s oa king t e m in gra vy ; the s o is t e n c on e ed t h m u h p v y o t e o t . On the c oas t the ic e of c i are tte s mokin has made ro re ss t v g p g , e s e c ia ll amon s t the ou n e r Moors b u t if the c or s mo es an thin p y g g , k y g it is u sually a w hiff of as his h(I ndia n he mp ) w hic his for the mos t p art mi e d withto a o T he i e s cons is t of w ood t m ne x b cc . p e n s e s w ith bo or horn mou th ie c e s and cla wis whic h lite rall hold b ut a inc h of , y y p " mo in ix t l S ure . Se e i lus trati n on a e k g o p g 253 . < of uncleanliness in eatingfi N ot only is this far from

bein the case but “ table manners in M orocco ar g , e

ex cellent and conducted with reat re ard to eti ue tte g g q . My hosts were to the fall as desirous of observing my method of ea ting as I was to see theirs buttable courtesy demands the turning a way of the head as the hand goes

to the month and whe n had s oons and orks brou ht , I p f g

in to show the E uro ean st le o handlin ood had to C ou rte s y . p y f g f , I specially request them to watchme as I used them before

the would do o y s . ] Before we retire to res t the Sheik s Bak nish ins is t on my brea kfas ting with them the following

i a i i a s in morn ng, proceed ng wh ch n turally re ults i our making a later s tart th a n we ntended .

“ ” We break fas t at 6 a m . the meal consists Bre a k fa s t.

of a s a hassoua s i oup c lled , much re embl ng that

- - k as k a ki . T is is a us all nown coc lec e h e ten by ,

s i i in a i as at s a and a tt ng c rcle our upper p rty , e ch

dipping a wooden s poon into the bowl . Next follows mutton stewed in oil and butter with olives (delicious Finally comes green tea drunk

i k ss in is fas i i m l le the Moor h h on , brewed w th

abundance of s ugar and flavoured with mint .

I n disc u ss in the u e stion a s to the re la ti e ad anta e s from the g q v v g , ointof V ie w of c le anl ine s s of hands a nd s oon and for the ointe d p , p k , y p outthatyou c an e ns ure the c le anline ss of your hands for you w as hthe m yours e lf ; for the c le anli ne ss of you r ute nsils you have to re ly up o n

s e r ants and the ma was hthe m ro e rl and the ma not. v , y y p p y y y

H s T is is ere I am u hered . h to be my home i s a in k 1< f dur ng my t y M arra esh . I enter rom the

u si and i i f i So th de , turn ng to the r ght a ter pas s ng

s a s f in a the t ble door , find my el the g rden . T he n ature of my lodging is best s een from the

a an i a Th s i ccomp y ng rough pl n . e wall surround ng

a are i and as si i of T a ie the g rden h gh m ve, bu lt bb , a material which indeed is employed for the whole

T re e s and shru s i A. b n soil s un fe e t e low , k 5 b

the le e l of C . ’ v hou s e of a onal fo tains in B. H e x g un

middle of C .

. aise d s t ne te rrace C R o , 5 fe e t a bove soil le ve l

of A.

0 S ta le . . b E S tone s te p s le ading to a rst fl oor in le fi , S g storie d dou le room b , , w ith W ide ve randah on whic h le e I s p .

A lar e wide arc hwa F. g y op e ning into H .

t a n G . S one stairw y le adi g to up p e r ve randahroom ove r H . A e randah roo H . v m on o fl o gr und or. T his and the u p s tairs roomw e re oc c u p ie d by my s e r an v ts .

T his is lite ra ll the c a e M in ar a l s e nt and as e d y s . y hos t v i b y k c ould re c e i e him b e fore he is ite d Da il he s e nt in c oo e d me ats v v me . y k " fr m his o n “ o w itc he ns . I aid no re nt b u t of c ours e ti e d the k p , p p s e r ant ha ds me l and t e r s n o e nt a re s e nt o m e n e rtain . v y , p t y “ h i of . T e f s the house ounta n , not constructed

s are si a s for i i to pout , mply recept cle conta n ng

“ a i is a w ter, wh ch led to them by concealed

i n f T he s a e in condu t a d never ails . tree pl nt d the

“ a s are f and and i rect ngle lo ty well grown , the r “ branches afford a perch for innumerable birds “ who increas e and multiply without let or

“ i a . T are i i a s a s and h ndr nce hey pr nc p lly p rrow Birds .

“ i s and i i i at p geon , the r vo ces greet me da ly the

i f i is for s o a . ar com ng d yl ght We r e e ly , the hour

f 6 m. re s o . Af rom to 9 a . a the be t f the day ter 9

i i m I t s e t and f to a . . beg n to g warm , rom to or “ m. i i 2 . t s is i of a too p , at th t me the ye r (july), t i a i z hot to do any h ng but to re d or wr te , or do e “ in I f in the shade . any one come s to call the

r i s s and s mo n ng he u ually stay to lunch , chat or snoozes at will till the abatement of the noontide

“ hi a heat enables m to brave the streets gain . T he morn ings I usually spend going round the ' “ i i s a k f o i i c ty e ther on hor eb c or on o t , v ew ng the “ s s and f ai s s s a s treet the ount n , the hou e , the g te “ and s s T he af s are s in the Mo que . ternoon pent

isi i a i s s i i v t ng, or w nder ng round the hop or r d ng “ i i out nto the env rons . H ere I remark the entire absence of unfriendly

“ ’ f i of ‘ M in I s eel ng the an the Stree t . ob erve a i a k s and a k s reetin s but m c ble loo , more th n loo , g g “ in s i I f a i al the treet where n o ten w nder qu te one . On one occas ion a negro who evidently ha d had

s a in s i E is i i al l ome de l g w th the ngl h , gr nn ng over “ his fa his a s k s a i a ce, put out h nd to ha e , y ng wh t “ ’ ’ T hi he meant to be G ood D ay. was s sole i i i i pretent on to l nguist c attainment . But f a “ human counten ance c an s peak in cordial accents

“ his did i s s k s and ass s - b , wh l t the hop eeper p er y

“ k i s i s il loo ed on w th ympathet c m es .

H A T E I C P R X .

n in the S a v e M k An Afte rnoo l ar e t.

“ i m. a I will call for you at 3 p . s d Mulai Abul

’ ” H asa and i a s “ b s lamah f n , w th courteou he le t

- - m. ok s l u z f . S G e e l me . Be ore 4 p we enter the k i T is is an where the slave mar et s held . h oblong open space ca rp eted with s and and s urrounded by

i I is ok fabbia walls in wh ch are recesses . t overlo ed

a ondak and ok s ma f s by F , overlo er y o ten be een o perche d upon the lofty wal ls . We cho se our

s s and i a of S ok is rece , not ce th t the centre the occupied by an arcade containing s mall cells here

T he sa i s i k the sla ves await their turn s . nd s pr n led

wi wa and Dilals a i s a th ter , the ( uct oneer ) r nge them s s in i i s i a elve l ne to open the proceed ng w th pr yer , * i T h invoking Sidi Abbas as the r patron saint . ey are in i a s and a a twelve number , the r turb n pp rel

are i i a s i and di i . wh te , the r m nner qu et gn fied

Af a a s his and i s ter pr yer, e ch goe to own cell br ng

T for out the first batch of goods . hes e are the

f a s a s and i i for most part em le l ve ch ldren , ntended

s i s s “ a is dome t c purpo e , the serv nt problem kn in ' un own the E as t . 1

T aki a i b o a ng the wom n , g rl , or y by the h nd ,

Dilal s i and a b id the lead round the c rcle, soon is made ; this b id is c a lled out until a higher

ff k i f isi i o er ta es ts place . Be ore ra ng the pr ce the prospective customer has the “ article led up to him and a i s in i of as i , ex m ne v ew purch e , w th more

in sa w a as a decorum , but the me y he would tre t

a do s a s k i s i s in a . g or hor e, ng que t on low tone T he appea rance of the “ s tock is bes t judged f a a i i s a i s i f rom the ccomp ny ng llu tr t on ,1 the ch e source of s upply us ed to be T imbuctoo but s ince

a i is has s the French occup t on th been topped .

T he c hie f of the S e ve n W is e M e n who are the tute lary guardians of M arra e s h k . “ " 1 L e t those who c onde mn too hotly re me mbe r the hiring whic h used to b e a fe ature of n lishannu al c ou ntr f ir E g y a s . t Pages 84 and 9 2. Di i da i G of a ak s n ng one y w th the overnor M rr e h , after s pending the previous afternoon in the

a k I s k of a i of s a s . m r et , po e the poor qu l ty the l ve

H e a k “ s f i a c nowledged the o t mpe chment , but said that they were the following week expecting

a f s si f S u s and if I is re h con gnment rom the , w hed

s his man e a I k he would end to se th t got firs t pic .

’ But the s un s rays are s lanting more and more ;

a ss is in a i nd negre led by r chly flowered gown , a my Moorish friend is sufficiently interested to call m Af i i i k hi . a s as s her to ter some prel m n r e , he

" “ ” A i as b id : i - fiv e a s and k s an B d. l t S xty doll r , he ma e

i has advance of five . But the pr ce gone up ten

f she s a i and s dollars be ore come round ga n , he drop i out of the bidding. Ult mately the woman is s old

for a s a 1 a i 9 5 doll r ( bout 3 very good pr ce,

a I s is considering her a ppear nce . eem to recogn e and a I am i the flowered gown , find th t r ght ;

“ ” cos tumes likely to se t off good points are pro

il l f r si T k v ide d by the D a s o the occa on . hey eep

k of is a a i is s i a s toc th pp rel , wh ch not old w th the

s la ve . ’ mi i 2 T he Dilal s c om sswn s } per cent . on s elling

is a G tax of i and . pr ce , there overnment 5 per cent Sl aves are sold under a warranty given when the bargain is concluded before the official M a rk et

Se c tion IV.

The Fa ith

a nd the

Fa ithfu l.

H E N an E uropean first look s upon a Moorish city the prominent features which s trik e his eye are the mosques and i s T is si i a in is m naret . here a true gn fic nce th ; religion (or its Observances) enters into every detail of s if Mo lem l e . I h ave been obliged to be a little didactic in my initial des cription under the title Religion but

I - - T h i s G i s as s . e a hope not dry du t rt cle on u ld , and the Almanack (which includes Fasts and

s i s i f i T he a Fe t va ls) pr ng n a tural ly rom t. ch pter deal ing with H eredita ry Saints hip may be found

i s i and is ai s i a not un ntere t ng, cert nly mo t mport nt , for this idea is the warp on which is woven the f f i i i i if we t o Moor s h p ol t cal and soc al l e . T here is a legend told amongst the Moslems that the E nglish sent a mission to Mohammed

88 enquiring into his doctrine and asking for a

issi a . T he s a i m on ry envoy , however , rr ved too

a w as a . a s s in l te, the prophet de d M ny Mu ulmen B arbary still hold the view that the E nglis h are the bes t dis pos ed towards them of the Western

a i s and G a i ai is ai “ s n t on , re t Br t n cert nly the mo t

T is ma favou red n ation amongs t the Moors . h y

a a is f a s of in I ia re lly r e rom the ccount our rule nd , with which Moorish pilgrims are m a de familiar (from an E as tern s tandpoint) when on pilgrimage to Mecca . T here they encounter m any c o

i i is s are i is s s and a rel g on t who Br t h ubject , le rn i much a bout the Brit sh R aj.

T he contents of this Se ction are

C H APT E R P AGE P AGE — I R eligion 9 0 to 9 5

I I —The Almanac k to 9 5 , 9 9

— I I I Guilds and Confrate rnities 1 00 to 1 02 — I V A Pic turesque System of H ereditary

S aints 1 02 to 1 0 6 H A T E C P R I .

Re on ligi .

T he i i of r i i rel g on Mo occo s Mohammedan sm .

T is God G od and a is his here no but , Moh mmed ” a is i in its si i i prophet ; th t the r creed mpl c ty , and that (L a hAllahitAllahM ohammed resoul Allah) is the s entence which is five times a day chanted

f roofo to f I t i sis s rom the p o every mos que . n t on

i and i i is i i i of G d f the un ty nd v b l ty o , ounded on the teaching of Mohammed as crystallized in the

a and is s i i i nd Kor n , e sent ally monothe st c a i democrat c .

T i in f if for all i hey bel eve a uture l e creat on , the

in a adis T he i a Pa ra dis e . good P r e . dea that women re

i a i a is a i I s a a den ed dm tt nce l bel on l m , and lthough theological doctors disagree as to whether they are

s a f man i a ai epar ted rom or not , they adm ttedly tt n T h eternal youth . e Mohammedan is in the ha ppy position of having no priesthood to intervene him and his G od. T he I between maum , who reads the Koran a nd prea ches the Friday s ermon

in s ai i s i f the mo que, m nta n h msel by other occupations in exactly the s a me w ay as did the C i ia i in a a s hr st n pr esthood e rly d ys, when Jame

w as s a and - k a fi herm n Paul a tent ma er .

H ou rs o f (1 ) Fe hdje r (dawn) ; (2) Dhohr (after the

i ia a o As a af o mer d n , b ut (3) r ( terno n , between 3 a nd 4 (4) M oghre b (fou r minutes

a f s u s and As a af sk s ter n et) ; (5) h , ter du ( upper

a s . Ab lu iloiis are s and s W a s hing. pr yer ) compul ory mu t be and as an s i thorough ; to the method , ob erver w ll note that Oriental s do not was h in water but with I f it ; the liquid is too precious to waste . water

a ai a s a is s a a be not v l ble , nd u ed or even cle n

T h a i a are s tone . e postures dopted dur ng pr yer i llustrate d on pa ge 2 55. T he Moor goes to his mos que on Friday as

E is a s a he' le av e s the ngl hm n doe on Sund y , but " (usually) his women at home ; “ Church Parade

i T he i a is of s unknown to I s lam . r tu l the s imp le stfi<

I t is rare for the Moorish mosques to be clos ed

T he Khotbah or addr e ss is de live re d by the Fa ir (or Sc rib e ) who ac ts a s I maum e fore ra er whic h is re c e de d the readin of , b p y , p by g p u blic n otic e s and of le tte rs fr om the S u lta n or K aids T he only othe r mos no e m loye e s are the H a zzab a (re a de rs or rec ite rs of the K oran)

a nd one ims w ho e e the ate s do the c le anin and c all to ra e r . k p g , g p y T he p ublic re c ital c onsis ts of c ongre gational c hanting of the p ra ye rs and e ac ul ati on fr om the or f ll n h ir mau m le a de r w ho j K an o ow i g t e I ( ) ,

tu rnin hi s ac on the m fac e s li e the mse l e s tow ards M e c c a . As the g b k , k v “ C rie r on the W a tc h T ow e r i e s the c a ll for midda ra e r g v y p y , " thou sands of oic e s ithin re e a t the c all in unison and c r G od i s v W p , y " ” mos t re a t T he n the F htiha e a w ith o e n ou ts tre tc he d g . a h re p ts p , “ ha nds Prais e b e to G od the ord of the W orlds the Pit in the , , L , y g,

Pitifu l in of the Da of u d me nt. T he e w e do se r e a nd s e e he l K g y J g v , k p fromT he e : l e a d u i th e f n w homis T h s n e p rfec tw ay, the w a o those o m y gra c e , not of those on w hom is wrath nor o the w andere rs . A e n. ” “ e tfo o v the e ac ulations O ord to T he e b e raise and God N x l j , L . p , ' is ma n )uy T H E S L A V E M A E RK T . C us tome rs ue s ti onin a S la e q g v .

and a s in i a s of merch nt who, the nterv l trade , i i i i i i f mplant the r c v l sat on and their aith . T he drinking of wine is prohibited in this world

i i i a i is but w ll be a llowed n Parad s e . G mbl ng f i s o a s is s i fa i i and orb dden , l o u ury , n nt c de , the

s r a s Oppression of orphans . Unlawful al o a e me t

’ ff i s a nd a i of and s i s o ered to dol , the e t ng blood w ne h a s fles h . T e rosa ry employed by the Mohammed n

a T asb e e h is s of eads of (c lled ) compo ed 9 9 b wood ,

i &c . T is a s of a in bone, vory , here ort h ndle

i is in and a i i a k s wh ch the cord jo ed, two dd t on l nob

- T he after the thirty third bead from either end . siz of is i a ia i e the beads mm ter l , and the r number f repres ents the 9 9 attribute s o Allah .

T he sai s i and a i s f s i a s nt wor h p , v r ou e t v l now

a i a is a incorpor ted nto Moh mmedan m, are prob bly

i s of - a a i i s s rel c pre Moh mmed n rel g on , ju t as the

is as i a i is s &c . Chr tm t de celebr t on (m tletoe, yule log , )

i - is i s pre Chr t an .

’ Apart from the mosques there are s aints houses and shrines (Z ouweeyah) dotted all over the country ; whilst religious maniacs (either real or s ham) are venerated as be ing under the direct influence of i the H oly Sp rit . I t is difficult to draw a s harp dividing line

i i s s i i of between rel g on and uper t t on , but what undoubtedly belongs to the latter there is much in

i s s issi s Morocco . Fall ng tar are m le thrown by T h G od at devils trying to pry into heaven . e

E i E e din el K abech is i in and v l y ( ) firmly bel eved , ’ mus t be avoided by the outstretched palm .

C H APT E R I I .

k The Almana c .

T h a si s of a s e Mohammedan ye r con st 354 d y , M ooris h with 1 1 1 years in every 30 (called intercalary years ) of 355 their months are lunar and twelve C i f i s i in numb er . onsequently the r est val , be ng da of are i fixed by the y the month , cont nually f i e i i k i all ng b h nd the r date by our rec on ng, and may occur in any month of the European (truly

sol ar) yea r .

C ussin i M . a de Perc val corrected the popular

i e a 1 6 error that the r epoch b g n on the th July,

D . T he a a a s a s 6 2 2 A . Moh mmed n ye r t rt with the

is the luc the unluc num e r c harms and amul e ts (5 k , 7 ky b ), “ are c arrie d for luc lots are c as t the future is r ed into ma ic , , p y by g o mirr rs , &c . T he se e le e n inte rcal ar e ars are the and th th roth 1 th 1 v y y , , 7 . , 3 . 1 6 h 1 8th first th 26th and 2 th in e ac hc c l 20 t s e o e ars . , , , 4 , , 9 , y 3 y a a H ol and month of mourning Moh rr m ( y), the epoch begin s with the first day of that month before the H e ge ira (flight from Mecc a to Medina) h i A D i 1 t A 6 2 2 . . which corresponded w th the 9 pr l ,

T he n ames and number of d ays conta ined in the month s are as follows

im dha I . a a 0 . 0 . u a Moh arram , 3 j R madh n , 3 l h 0 (e l oo a ) 3 ° S c hoowal , 2 . a 2 , 9 S ph ar , 9 uimadha 1 1 ’ D a a 0 . j hu l K d h , 3 Rabia I . e t tam 2 ‘ ( ) 9 ’ D H ad ah (e l oolah) 30 . hu l j , '

R e d e b 0 2 0 . J , 3 . g or

i I I ' Rab a Ac cording to whe §he r r mm ar i e ye‘ m y e an 2 . h b an 2 t S c a . ( t ) 9 , 9 Lfinotf The result of this is that the calculation of the a a a in E k i nd Moh mmed n ye r urope an rec on ng a , vice verse is s a a a s f , omewh t el borate ; very u e ul

’ table is printed in Stanley Lane Poole s " “ a u of I ia C i s C at log e nd n o n . T he days of the week are

S unda y Yom e l had T hursda y Yorn e l K hame e s M onda y Yorn e l tne e n Frida y : Y om e l jumah T ue sda y Yom e ttlata (Day of the C ongre gation) a Y ome l Ar ah W e dne sd y : b S aturda y Yom e s S ib t.

h da i s in i at s s T e y beg n the even ng un et , not

i s s s o a a is u s a as w th our elve , th t wh t to Sund y

r a i night is to the Moo Mond y n ght .

’ T is is a of a s i h the d te Moh mmed b rthday, kept by the Aissou w a confraternity (se e page as a da of i y org es . Ra mada n is the festival bes t k nown in the

s . I t is a a a fa We t the gre t Moh mmed n st when , R a mada n . f s is s s for a f rom unr e to un et whole month , no ood

is a of i i i in e ten . One the bes t descr pt on s s found ’ ” t s i i a and ma it Bur on P lgr m ge, well y be good ,

for it is a i T he record of pers on al exper ence .

i un- fire him a s i it w as morn ng g brought b t nence, his friends and companions whose irritability under

of is s i e i in the torture hunger de cr b d , he jo ned

a i a i f as and in the nx ous expect t on o the l t hour , the thrill produced by the signal gun which

' a Al nnounced th at the day s fas t w as ended .

“ fitar Al fitar as t- break s and , (f ) hout the people , a hum of joy ris es from the silent city You

a s f of a ma its si . exh u t a pot ull w ter , no tter ze

Yo i s for a i u clap hurr ed hand p pe , you order

ff and i i s f s s it co ee, , prov ded w th the e com ort , you down andcalmlycontemplate the coming pleas ures

“ of the evening.

’ a i I s a of a a f Ramad n s l m s month pe ce , w r are I n a s of f a nd quarrels must cea s e . the b ence ood

“ f r so it men have no s tomach o the fight , true

“ is that an army crawls upon its belly . “ T he Break - fas t Feast is just the n atura l

e a i f a a a and sis s of a r ct on rom R m d n , con t gener l

i i n i i i A its s hol da y mak ng a d v s t ng. t clo e the i Su ltan and the local K a d s receive the taxes .

' T he Sheep Feast occurs on the toth of Dhu l

H ad ah as and a s j , the l t month , commemor te the

T he f i sacrifice of the ram by Abrah a m . o fic al part of the programme is carried out thus

’ “ After public prayer (M sallah) a fine ram is

’ “ i ud e i ‘ B ism led to the Kad (j g ), who, w th the words ’ * f I s its . A a s r a llah cut throa t runner d she o w rd ,

n i i his a as a a d hold ng w th h nd the poor g hed thro t , “ i a it f s pee ds to the Kasbah . W ll he re ch be ore the “ animal has breathed his la st T he grea t crowd

“ i a H a ! a i i wa ts expect nt . urr h the unh ppy v ct m

“ a i a and all a s w s not qu te de d , round me re ound

“ a ati s of Allahu mma lak e l a O God ej cul on h md ( ,

to Thee be raise and s i i a i s a a i s . p ), m l r p ou ej cul t on T his omen mean s a year of abunda nt harvest to f the fa ith ul Moor .

T his ac t is annou nce d by the w aving of a c loa k from n I is u u al fo h r tow e rs a nd a salu te of 2: gu s . t s r t e p ivate ’ to c ut a she e s throat at the same time and the she e is e a te n the p , p s ame or followmg day. C HAFT E R I I I .

Gu s a nd onfr ild C a te rnitie s .

With regard to confraternities (T aifahs) Morocco is in a les s advanced po sition than the othe r I Moslem communities . n the latter they are fe w and f a s a is and power ul , bec u e well org n ed

i i i I n f a a d sc pl ned . the ormer they ppe r to be concerned mainly with religious observances ; but the Mohammedan religion is so essentially social and political that it is difficult to m ak e hard

n i f f a i i a d fast divis ons . Some o the con r tern t es corres pond more to the Western trade guilds ; work men of the sa me trade are grouped together with an E lder at the head called the Amim of the

a i c an s a a and i . corpor t on , who u u lly re d wr te H is progress in a uthority is marked by his ” " a ppellations : beginning as “ Ba or “ Abba

athe r s a a a s in H (f , the me word ppe r ebrew) he

’ ” next becomes “ F K e e h (S avant) and finally ” H i in is s aik . e a s as a s a i Sh ct rb ter d pute , dv er,

H i i &c . is s a a in a and gh Pr est , , u u lly adv nced ye rs , i his nfluence dies with him. T he principal obs tacles to the power of the

“ confraternities are (1 ) the Shorfa (descenda nts

2 M a hks e n overnment ofthe Prophet) ; and ( ) the g (G ).

T he former are us ually too much concerned about “ loa ves and fis hes to merge their individualities in a a and a are i i i corpor te body , the l tter mpl c t

i s in a Divide etim era . bel ever the Rom n proverb , p ‘ i f Aiss ouwa When the grea t confra tern ty o the , which includes most of the sn ak e charmers and

s of s s ia s other the lower order , e pec lly negroe to

its i s a s & c . ia whom gros s r te , d nce , , pecul rly a a s i f ppe l , eemed to be gett ng too power ul , the M aghk se n a dvanced to favour the rival con

’ fra tern ity of H amadsha r whos e rites are fully as T f f a i i s s gros s . hes e two power ul con r tern t e thu

a in i i are so far i s and i a pl ced compet t on , enem e r v ls tha t their vota ries not infrequently come to blows . T he idea of joining a confra ternity seems not

a a ma s s only th t mutu l help y be thu ecured , but als o th at the good offices of the Patron S aint

“ T he Aissou w a are followe rs of M ohamme d b in Ats a of M e q u in e z se e nte e nthc e ntu r and the i a nnual or i ta e lac e on his irthda ( v y) r g es k p b y , ke p t u nder a c omp ac twith M ul ai I s mail (rule d 1 67 2- 1 7 27 ) from the 1 2th t a nimals ra w to the r hS har . T he de ote e s de ou r s he e a nd othe r a g p v v p , te ar in the m li m from l im w hil t e t li e T he c u t the ir odi e s g b b s y a v . y b w i h i s an dan the m e l e s into e c s ta s ie or ru te a ss ion c he w t n e . d c e s s k v v b p , l orn mos t e oltin ass th & c . foa m atthe mou th and o throu hthe r g , , , g g v g r nial i f n c e e mo s . T he y are sup p ose d to b e immu ne to the b te o s ak e s or no ou s ima A i id de s c i tion f on of the ir f ti al s othe r ve m an ls . v v r p o e es v ’ ” s to b ou nd in h R v e r s Pio e rin in oc o . i e f t e e . R . K n e M or c " 1 T he H amads ha c onfra te rnity are the fo low e rs of S idi Ali b e l H amadsha w hos e u a le ams w hi te on the hill of Zarhon ne ar , K bb g

M e u ine z . T he s tarte d a s the G u ild of Ac ro a ts b ut ha e e nlar ed q y b , v g the ir s he re the ir fe ast is a fe w da s late r than that of Aiss ouw a and p ; y , he l it l e e hi n h la t are t b d t e tte r in the ir e xtravaganc e s . T o the soun d ' of e im ri tari ab a itah and t b il the c u t the ir he a ds o n with g b , j , g , , y p e a e s sma s hw ate r u s on the ir he ads the n oise c annon alls on the ir x , j , p b le e din c raniu ms an e rform u lin fe ats b g p j gg g . may b e afforded members for facilitating their a i a a a is s of i dm tt nce to P r d e , on the thre hold wh ch

' i a he w ll meet them . For be tter security m ny

s i several f a i i s and is a ai Moor jo n con r tern t e , th g n militates again st the solidarity and discipline of

a s a T h of e ch ep rate community . e career the ” ” H a a a E l i a wretch Bou m r , Rogh , or wh tever

ma a him is at Fe z we y c ll , who recently per hed under the s tern edict of Mulai H afid (his real n a me was Dj ilali ben Dris E lyou sfi E zze rhou ni of the tribe of Ouled You sef) is an example of the f f i A a s in power o the con raternit e s . fter ojourn

A ia ot i s f a k of lger , he g h m el n med Mo addem the

of S hadhou l a f a S he riffian order the y , orged

i and a i a s u a i ped gree, c rr ed on tr ggle th t emb ttered

a s a s of i of Ab d- e l - A i and the l t ye r the re gn z z , gave even the far s tronger Mul ai H afid a world of

u tro ble .

C H A T E I V P R .

A Pic tu re sq u e Sys te m of Sa ints

Sa nts h i ip .

Riding from M arrak esh in company with

iffs of T amshlohat s the sher , the pre ent

E lisha so did the s piritual authority * of the holy

A a is i 1 8 A . D . as hazw ane e boo F r (d ed 4 5 ) p s on to G , and f him T h rom to the ams lohat sheriffs .

One day the holy man and his dis ciples are pas sing the grave of Sheik I brahim in the village

’ of T ams hlohat a f a a s f , h l d y journey rom Marrak esh ; they find it deserted in con sequence

of a . ss Ghaz wane e s drought Neverthele , turn to ’ A a a ib n H sai H asane e a i a bd ll h u n the , r l ne l

s a of a and “ T is is de cend nt Moh mmed , h the ” a for A a a . Af pl ce thee, O bd ll h , quoth he ter

i i a fa ssin A a a his if rece v ng rewell ble g, bd ll h , w e i i At i and hs son rema n at T a mshlohat. the t me their s ole poss ession (despite his des cent from the

n e f i f a O C ow . ounder of I s lam) s one cow and a bundle o p lm h i i a a leaves . G azw ane e dies and s bur ed at M rr k esh ; but s till the family of three with their cow

i t T amshl hat l ve on a o .

T h t x f e a gatherer o the Sultan tak es the cow , and the dis tra cted owner goes to M a rrak es h to

i And Bara ah blessin v tde a e k ( g), p g f ltan f Ab dallahw as a sc ion o the H as ane e S herifis , w ho rule d as S u s o f Moroc c o from 1 2 to 1 660 whe n the w e re su c c ee de d the ila le e 5 5 , y b F S he riffs to w hic h famil M ula i H afid the re se nt rul er lon s s e e , y p g , p age s 1 1 8 and x39 . i I a f ki a recla m it. nste d o see ng the Sult n he vis its the s hrine of Ghazwane e and communes

hi a ssi with s dea d lea der . P ng through the “ New Gate on his w ay home he finds there

t x a i his T is ma n had the a g therer w th cow . h been visited in his s leep by a tall man having in his hand a drawn sword a him ak , who comm nded to t e k A a a the beas t bac to Abda ll ah . Soon bd ll h

i k i a s for i s f and a ia beg ns to wor m r cle h m el , m ter l wealth pours in upon him until he is a ble to dis pense hos pit a lity to thousands of gues ts for whos e ne eds he daily sacrifices large numbers of m s l’e r‘ ty sheep and cattle .

T he a bove story of the settlement at T amshlohat of this important She riffian Fa mily wa s told by

ik A son of A a a I b n Ask a She hmed , bd ll h , to r , one of is i s s e t it in his the Moor h chron cler , who out

k is in 1 8 it is a boo publ hed 57 , whence extr cted here .

T he Ku bba of M ulaiAbdallahre mains at T amshlohatand s anc tifie s the town and the u as of the c rt rou nd the ne i h ourhood a re the , K bb y g b e tombs of his de sc e ndants . T he sp he re of infl ue nc of the S he rifl ot T amshloha tis a large one ; it e xte nds ov e r all the p rovince s of the s ou th from the Atlas to the Ou m~e r- e ia he is the sole ro rie tor of the tow n R bb , p p a d ne i hb o rin land n g u s , and the sole b e ne fic rar y oi the alms of the Kubbas his e ar mc ome is rec one d to b e wortho e r a uarte r of a . y y k v q million s te rling . Such is the authority on the basis of which res ts

i ai s iffs of T amshlohat the venerat on p d to the her ,

s e T is ins i and ex nno di ce omn s. h tance s typical of the s ys tem of heredita ry s aints prevalent

r throughout Morocco . T hey a e descend ants of the Prophet and their hereditary sheriffdom entitles

i i a them to both rel g ou s nd secula r s ervice .

o a his a i and his nai po r to p y bo t h re at Sallee , j

a a i f are s i i al of i issi n rr t ng thereo , t ll typ c the v c tude s characteristic of Moorish life and the w ay they are

met . T he s ources of information are for the most ” a A a is i s k as E isi I b n p rt r b h tor e nown dr , ” " ” a I b n K hallik an E l akk i “ Ab d Kh ldun , , M ar , ” ” ” e l a i E n asi i R aod- ol - a E l W h d , N r , Kart s , ” ” U frani a nd Ab ou l as e m A E z Ziani , g ben hmed .

’ I Bu d e t M e k in s have m a de full u se of Mr . g t a

k as as a of C a a s De sc ri boo , well th t stell no p

i H is é i s i s s I a in c on t r ca be de other , but h ve ” each c ase verified the references of modern

authorities .

Historic a l Sketc h .

C H APT E R I .

r D s Ea ly ay .

L e e nds . i s of A a s i g Anc ent legend tell nt eu , the m ghty

ia son of A as i of au a ia . T he g nt tl , K ng M ret n ki d all a add monster lle whom he could c tch , to their sk ulls to a mound which he was raising in A N AT L A S T AC R K .

N o oad for M R otors . ( see p age 209 }

las ted or ro u hl 00 ears about the same eriod as f g y 5 y , p

their rule endured in Britain and to this da the common , y

name u u r o p co nty for E ur peans is R oumi (R oman).

I n f a 2 A . D . i a i s 4 4 we find Bon c u , the Rom n

C C s of Af i a i i i G s i ount ( ome ) r c , nv t ng en er c the

k i s of G oth to Morocco . T hese n men our own

Anglo - S axon s accepted the invitation to s uch purpo se as to form a Vandal E mpire which l a s ted

for a a is s ai s i bout 80 ye rs . Some ethnolog t cl m t ll to

recognis e traces of the blood ofthe fair - haired blue

eyed G oth s a mongs t the mixed races of Morocco .

Ju s tinia n. s i ia a i E in A . D . Ju t n n , the Byz nt ne mperor 534 , re organ ized his Afric a n dominion s and ended the

hi i i T he E as a of Got c dom n on . tern p rt the M a uretanian Quadrilateral from that time re ma ined loo s ely connected with the E ast Roman (Byzantine) E mpire till the irruption of the Moh ammedan invader s in the middle of the s eventh century ; whilst the We s tern part s eem s

to h a ve fallen under the rule of Romano - Gothic

i f —l - K ngs o Spain . Ab d e Rahman ben Mohammed

ib n a an A a is ia of f Kh ldun , r b h tor n the ourteenth “ i e A . D . sa s D of c ntury , y ur ng the rule the

a s Berbers f s s C is ia i and Rom n the pro e ed hr t n ty ,

ai i a s a r a i a p d the r t xe regul ly , dd n g, however , th t

s of ews ome them were j . C H APT ER I I .

The M oh mm on u e s a e dan C q st .

When the disciples of Moh ammed broke in upon Algeria with the s word in one h and and the

a in f a a Kor n the other , they ound governor n med Djore djir (Gregory) ruling in the n ame of the ‘ i T s Byzant ne E mperor H eracliu s . hey oon

a s E s i s and ai a a m tered the a tern reg on , K rou n ,

’ a s of T is w as town three d y journey south un ,

’ f in 6 A. D a s a oint d a ui for f ounded 39 . p pp urther advances .

A f a s a k a a a bout orty ye r l ter O b , celebr ted

s i 6 8 A. D . a i f ai a Mu l m hero , led ( 7 ) ra d rom K rou n and drove before him wha t remained of the

i is H f T i i a a s . e at a Byz nt ne g rr on ound ng er, rul ng in a of a a - G i i of ai the n me Rom no oth c K ng Sp n , a ai C ia s him cert n ount Jul n , who ped on his s a T a a outhw rd journey to rud nt , no doubt

i i as s e e k f him T i m ght ly ple ed to the bac o . h rty two years l ater Musa - ib n - N azair undertook a f s i i a nd s T a ik - ib n - Zia his re h exped t on , ent r d ,

“ Vida Ab d- e r- ahman ib n A de l - H a e m two c o ie s of whose R b k , p w or c om ose d in the ninth c e ntur s in i lioth ue k y mo . {re t the B b eq N ationals , arts . i e a i 1 0 A. O . Berb r l euten nt , across to Spa n (7 ) ‘ i i so ia C of Al ir nc ted to do by Jul n , ount ge c e as and C a a - in - i eut , now h nd glove w th the Moors

s i i of a ai s i at through the p r t revenge g n t Roder c ,

his i nd s of his once K ng a the educer daughter .

T he s poils of the Romano - Goths of Spa in were much more rich and tempting th a n thos e of the

’

s . A a i s T a for Berber cert n Solomon ble, i s a ak at T e a a n t nce , t en oledo , we h r to h ve been

s of a s i s s and compo ed emer ld , rub e , pearl , other

i s s s and a had 60 s T he prec ou tone , to h ve 3 leg . s of issi a le and a a tory the m ng t ble g, wh t c me out of it f an i a i i in i , orms mport nt nc dent the romant c

of and T a ik i s i tale Musa r , the r deed , the r

i r i a n i isf s . ng at tude , d the r m ortune T he ladies of Spain were as captivating then as

’ h A is ia s u s now . T e rab h tor n tell that Musa s ” s on “ a man of a a and a i i a i , ch r cter b l ty , m rr ed

’ i i s i and w as so a K ng Roder c w dow, enthr lled

a as i i a is th t , to ple e her, he tr ed to ntroduce Sp n h

d i s a s his f s manners an ceremon al mong t ollower .

For the romantic story of C ou ntJulian se e the v ariou s his torians of i oz nd o he T he tale of the e tra ai of his dau hter S p a n ; D y a t rs . b g by ’ ’ ode ric and u lian s re e n e are w e ll tol in S ou the s oe m R , v g , y p , " ode ric the (as t of the G oths . M r . Gu a an os in his n lis h R y g , E g ' ” transla tion of E l M ak k ari s M u ssu lman D nas tie s of S ain s how s y p , that Jul ian de finite ly joined the M oors and w as he ld in high e s te e m by H e founded a famil w hic h in the third e ne ration e c ame the m. y g b M ohamme dan and c an b e trac e d wi th distinc ti on for o e r tw o hundred , v y e ars .

K h r d i "< a e te D . i j creed rebelled in 7 40 A. aga nst the Ara b Governor of T angier and bea t him in the

field . Again and again they vanquished the flower of

A a i a and a s the r b ch v lry , were only fin lly wor ted

H nda l in 2 . I s i i by a a 7 4 A D . t w a the v gour n Morocco ofthis Khare djite he c tarianismth at paved wa for a i s e ss s of I is a the y the r p d ucc e dr ,

s a of Al i and foe of a de cend nt , mortal the Omayy d h K ale e fa s .

C H APT E R I I I . D R é d Su mmar of nast c u e . Résu m , an y y i l

We now a pproa ch the date when Morocco

i i a a a ki and beg n s to cohere nto sep r te ngdom , must jus t tak e a gl ance at the general condition of the Mohammedan world in order to “ ge t our i ” bear ngs .

This w as a se c tw ho s c andalise d the dis u te s e twe e n Ali and , by p b ’ M o awi a the rs tOma ad Kale e fah ma intaine d thatthe Kale e fahof y ( fi yy ), I s la m ou ht to b e e le c ted the su fira e of all the faithfu l and ne ed g by g , i i o e t not b e long to the Kore s h tribe (tha t of Mohammed). T h s p r t s agains tthe acc e ssion of the Oma yyad Kale e fahs p rofou ndly affe c te d the his tor of M oroc c o . Althou h orthodo M ohamme dans in c re e d y g x , doc trine and rac tic e the M oors are and ha e alw a 5 e e n Prote s tants p , v b a ains t the s p iritual domination of the Po es of 1 3 am(the Kalee fahs

gBa hdad and in late r da s the S ultans 0 T ur e . o g , y k y) a f a i i Moh mmed ounded not merely rel g on , but a a s a i i s a sis a i its s dyn ty on rel g ou b , d t ng event by the yea r of the H e ge ira (flight of the Prophet

f a i a 6 2 2 A . D . H e w as s u c rom Mecc to Med n , ) c e e de d his fa - in- law Ab u - k in by ther , Be r , the 1 1 th yea r of the He ge ira (63 2 next by Oma r and a his a ki s and Othm n , ne r n men , then by

Ali his s si a nd s of his au , fir t cou n hu band d ghter

“ Fatima . T he s e are the Four Orthodox

l i in A . H . 66 1 K a e e fahs . Al w as murdered 40 (

’ a nd M o awi a i a s a a y , belong ng to ep r te

a of K oraish a a of a br nch the cl n (th t Moh mmed), assumed the throne and s tarted the Omayy ad

T h i a i as . e s E w as dyn ty ru h to mp re very r p d ,

nd i i A D . a by the be ginn ng of the e ghth century . the dominion of the K ale e fahs extended from the

A a i I s a nd f C as ia S e a tl nt c to the ndu , rom the p n to the ca ta racts of the N ile .

T s a disi a i . I is s hen t rted ntegr t on dr , the fir t

k in of is a i a i w as a wor er the field Moor h n t on l ty ,

s a of Ali and a i a and k de cend nt F t m , loo ed upon the Om ayyad a nd Ab as sid occupants of the throne

as s s . A a a s ss f a nd S a in . u urper bdul R hm n , who ucce ully p s a a i f a i a w a s a n ep r ted Spa n rom the K l ph te , Omayya d and denied their right s and thos e of

i s s Ab i . the r uccessor , the ass ds Other part s of the world also threw off the secul ar suzerainty of

a i a a for s a k the K l ph te , lthough the mo t part c now i i i i h ledg ng a sp r tual overlordsh p . T e las t re p re s e ntativ e s of the old K ale e fahs took refuge in

C s a i and a i i i u i on t nt nople , h nded on the r sp r t al t tle to the Sultan of T urk ey ; this title has never been r o n n ec g ised i M orocco.

I will now a sk my readers to turn to the

ia a i I i is H is d gr m wh ch ent tle , Key to M oor h tory, which graphically illustrates the historical sequence of the Dynasties

T he broad strip at the top numb e red (1 ) indic ate s that

M ohammedanism whe n it first force d itse f on M oroc c o , l . inv olve d a bsorp tioninto the M ohamme da n Emp ire rule d the ma l fahs fr m a masc i ure 2 by O yy ad Ka e e o D us . F g ( ) show s tha tSp ain was fre e from I slam till the tide of c on

ue s tc rosse d he str t in 1 x a n I n i re c orde d th q t ai s 7 . (3) s e fac t that the Abbasid Kale e fahs ous te d the Oma yy ads ov e r the wh l ohamme w s lman o e M dan orld e x c e p t M us u S p ain . The ne xt se c e ssion from the M ohamme dan Emp ire is de note d by (4) showing M oroc c o unde r the I dre e si nas t whose ru le radua l ta e rs off to nothin ne ss Dy y , g l y p g be fore the e nc roac hme nt of the Be rbe r T ribe s (Figure w hic hin ol ed a r u rn to c h v v e t aos . Figure (6) marks ye t anothe r se c e ssion fromthe domains of the Kal ee fahs the f r i n f f fr i , o mato o a Kingdom o A ik ya

i r —Tunis—T ri oli unde r the A hla b ids w ho handed (Alg e s p ) g , — i ure to the atimids and 8 to the Za rids . it ou F g (7 ) F , ( ) y W e se e from Figure (9 ) that the H ammudids forme d a kingdom c arved p artl y from the c haos of M oroc c o and

artl of Al e ria te ndin la te r into T unis b u t los in all p y g , ex g , g

r n te rritor to the A mora ide s T he se latte r the ir M o oc ca y l v . (Figu re 1 0) re stored orde r in M oroc c o and e x te nded the ir rule to S ain whe re a su c ce s sion of minor d nas tie s p , y . (Figure 1 1 ) had tak e n the p lac e of the Oma yy ads of

C ordov a, . Figure (1 2) de note s the high wate r mark of the M oorish

m ire the ru e of the A mohade s who lost inde e din S ain E p . l l , p to the Christians (Figure b utj oine d Alge ria and T u nis

to M oroc c o.

Spe c ial inte rest attac he s to Figu re s (1 4) and whic h s e ak of the C usade s . o e rt the orman C ount of p r R b . N . S ic il h d T u is and T ri o i a itte s ic e from I s am y , el n p l . l l l l re - a bsorbe d by the dy nas ty of S aladin (Figure 1 5) the adv e rsary of our Ric hard C oeur de Lion . W e are re minde d by Figure s (1 6) and (1 7 ) that in the break up of the Almohade Emp ire two inde p e nde nt king doms- those of the H udids and the Nazrids—w e re formed i h as h n S ain . oa dil t e of t e Nazrids saw S ain p B b , l t , p

c le are d of M ohammedanism.

T he Be ni M arin tribe s (Figure 1 8) wre s te d M oroc c o fr om

the Almohades the anids i u re 1 took Al e ria and ; Zy (F g 9 ) g . the H afe ids T unis and T rip oli (Figure Al ge ria w as

r on ue r d the e ni M arin in s in 1 ec e 2 A . D . and q by B k g 3 5 , the M oorishEmp ire thus c onstitute d was handed on to the

W atasids i ure 2 1 who os Al e ria and the m ire (F g ) l t g , E p

1 1 7 of M oroc c o in its p re se ntdime nsions was transfe rred to the S he riff dy nastie s of the H asane e (22) and the Filale e

T o the atte r fami e lon s M u l i h a H afid t e ru lin rin . l ly b g , g p ce T he C ors air Kingdoms of Algie rs T u nis and

T ri oli c ontinue d to hold sw a till mode rn times whe n p y , a ne w fac tor was introduc e d : that of ranc e w h —in the F , o inte re sts of hu manit — too firs t Al e ria and ne T unis y k g , xt . and rha s the e nd is not t p e p ye .

I V C H APT E R .

h m f th I r si a m T e Co ing o e d e e F ily.

At A a ia a i a of E in lex ndr , the c p t l gypt , the

’

of D hI a 1 A. H . 86 month ou l J , 69 (June , 7 two men s ta nd gazing atthe fagade of a private hous e .

of s s nd a a s ak One them , who e dre s a ppear nce be pe his i is and a s s gentle b rth , young be rdle , the other T h f in the flower of m anhood . e mas ter o the hous e coming out at that moment s alutes them

H e a nd ask s why they are look ing s o intently . is told that they a re a dmiring the architecture . ” “ a re s a s ! M a i You tr nger , then y our com ng

fa in si are s a s . find vour your ght , we tr nger Further convers e s hows th at the new comers are

I is and a e a man f i i s dr R she d , m ster and , ug t ve

a i made all ccept the tea ch ng of I slam . H is coins be a r the n ames of the towns of T u dgha and

i i olu i Wal l ( V bil s).

T he a i s f i r p d uccesses o I dr s I . were due to 1 ) the fact tha t m any of the Berber Muslims were

K hare d ite se e a and 2 a as j ( p ge ( ) th t, the

A a is ia s s a “ a of r b h tor n t te , the gre ter number the inhabitants were C hristian s and Jews whom f “ I dris orce d to join his fa ith .

Af u i for h f a s I is ter r l ng t ree or our ye r , dr

is a a i a a l of H a - al per hed , ss ss n ted by too roun

i K ale e fah f a a and r of Rash d, o B gd d , he o the

a ia i H i i I is s Ar b n N ghts . s enm ty to dr aro e from the superior heredit ary claim of the l atter

i f i i I T he i fan s on of to the ch e ta nsh p of slam . n t I i i s I . w as ai as a dr tr ned by R h d , the old serv nt nd f f a comrade o the ather . The closing years of the six th and those starting the seventhcenturies wer bi with ate Charlema ne ruled e g f . g the centre o civilization atone end o which A l red the f , f f

’ Great E n land s darlin tru led a ainst the D anes ( g g) s gg g , whilstatthe other end H aro un ai R ashid reigned over

the M ohammedan E m ire then atits bri htestera . p , g On a fair hillside clothe d in verdure and forest a young M oorish noble is busying himse lf and a

Roudhe l d I ldoun. Kertas , an b n Ka fe w f s . I t is a in a of ollower Febru ry , the ye r

808 and s s our Lord , the country how the tender i f i An green due to the nfluence o s pr ng . old

i s i k s his and herm t who e cruc fix beto en creed ,

s s i has is s who e ol tude been d turbed by the bu tle , k i i i ” as s him what lie is doing . Bu ld ng a C ty is T he s s s the curious reply . an wer eem to awaken the old man from the leth argy of age and “ I f is so 0 E i I a i i s , th be , m r , h ve good t d ng

his for . H e a a s thee , quoth he then n rr te how predeces sor at the hermitage told him tha t a ” city n amed “ S e f had be en loc ated there ” T he k f of is years ago. Boo o Knowledge th predecessor had als o s tated that “ one day a s on of

s s e and i his a the Prophet hould com rebu ld , n me

“ s a I is and his a i s a : h ll be dr , ch evement gre t he

“ s a a I s a and it s a for h ll pl nt l m here , h ll endure

“ ” . ais G od s ai is a nd s a s ever Pr ed be , d I dr , t rt

i i z d gg ng the foundation s of Fe .

T his I dris w as the s on of the founder of the

i s ai fa s ss of Northern K ngdom , who e mount n tne

’ a i i a of his fa s had W l l , the cr dle ther power , i h become too s tra tened for is extended rule . The i of i of was i i cho ce the s te Fez truly nsp red ,

i i k I w s a and the c ty grew qu c ly . t a dded to i m s a a I . a exten vely by Y hy , who c e to the throne in 8 8 - and a si for fa s 4 9 , who g ve the te the mou

s “ E l K ir u Th i i i Mo que a o e e n . e or g n al ed fice w as built by a rich and piou s T unis ian la dy n a med

Fa tim a Oum - e l - Benin (mother of two sons) in

A h i a i in 6 and 8 . D . T e as s 59 m n ret w fin hed 9 5 ,

s s of I is I I . i w as urmounted by the word dr , wh ch

au i if h * c s ng str e amongst is des cendants .

>l< =l<

One of the famous mots of the great French

i L e c o is he rchez la Femme and detect ve q C , certainly the mat s eems applic able to the fall of

i a f in i dyn as t es . Y hya the second (fi th the l ne

f I i “ w as a man of a s and rom dr s) depr ved moral , ” violated a pretty Jewess n ame d H anyna (R oudh

T is a hi if nd hi E l K ar tas ). h r pe cos t Yahya s l e a s fa mily their throne by starting a s eries of ins u r i rections wh ch finally ended the dynasty . Soon

s a “ T he a a s s a is one , urn med Str nger , ro e , e t bl hed

i s f in ai s and a a of h m el the mount n , c ptured p rt

’ Fez . 1

S e e a e 1 68 . “ I t wi l e se e n from the de sc ri tion of Fe z a e 1 6 that this C it 1 p , p g 4 , y w as di ide d into c antonme nts whic hw e re ofte n hos tile to one anothe r v , , d diffe r for e throne and e ve n sup p orte entc andidate s th .

i i i of A hmat in E is i of Pr nc pal ty g the S . d tr ct

Morocco . She and her hus band L ac ou t flying from the Almoravides took refuge at T edl a in the

A as b u t i i f e s a a i tl , th ther the r o m de a s udden r d

- and k i L ac ou t. Ab u k s on of a lled Be r , Om r , led

s A av i s a s a of “ i s the e lmor de , w rm ve led hor emen “ s s i s of ffal i and a i who e h eld were bu o h de , he m rr ed i i the charm ng w dow .

Whils t in E urope the Norman Duk e was pre

’ paring with his legions to ca rry the Pope s bles sing

f of a s A - a s Ab u - k by orce rm to the nglo S xon , Be r and his L amtu na i i i i s z a fiery , burn ng w th rel g ou e l ,

s in o a ks i i i e s f bur t up n the b c l d ng tr b o Morocco . — Zeinab accompa nied him ; and when he was r e called by dis sen sion s to cross the Atlas back to — the cra dle of the race he temporarily divorced her and left her with his legion s in charge of

his si s f son of T ashe f n . The la cou n Yu u , y tter

’ continued his k insman s conques ts and not only

a of Z i a . captured Morocco , but the he rt e n b

ti From the ir w e a ring the Litha m ( e il) the se wild Be rbe r horse v ' l a min nd from he ir b fi i me n w e re c a lle d M u athth m , a t u alo hde shie lds " na T he inha i te d the c ountr e twe e n the Atl a s a nd the L amtu . y b y b S u dan and (afte r the ir ow n c onv e rs ir n) w age d H oly W ar a e inst the he lmora ide s w e re us t i n the ll h blac ks of the S uda n . T A v j fu u s of a “ " ire d fa i th T he name Al - M ora v rde is a c orr u tion of ne w ly ac q u . p ora b e th n or M ara outs s e e a e 1 1 and mar s the m as a horde M y ( b ) p g 7 , k e e of d vote s .

( 1 069 H e crossed to Spain at the request

of ha a A f VI . the Mo mmed ns, there to fight l onso f of L . H e eon , whom he conquered then orced k i a the Spanis h Moslems to ac nowledge h s sw y . H is son Ali who succeeded was born him by a if i i i beaut ul Chr st an capt ve .

>1<

After 9 0 year s of Almoravide rule the kingdom

Al moha de s f i a s of A a s a of ell nto the h nd the lmoh de , who m de s uc c e e d Morocco a genuine E mpire . the Almor

a v ide s .

VI C H APT E R .

The Glorie s of E mp ire .

Again the change of dynasty had its origin in

i i A s i a rel giou s Rev val . de ert Berber tr be

i a i f i s nfl med w th re orm ng zeal , ru hed upon the h s e k i and it. a ettl d ngdom subjuga ted Mo mmed ,

s on of T u mart the o i i of e , r g nator the movem nt,

m f k H a i i a a w as a an o ma r . e w s or g n lly poor s tudent who visited the E ast and acquired a i * As a s i reputation for sanct ty . my t c reverenced under the title of Mehdi (the directed of God) he found refuge in the Atlas Mountains not fa r f a ak s and a s his issi rom M rr e h , p s ed on m on to

A d- e l - i k a i a b Mum n , who too the Southern c p t l by ’ — - D Ab d e l - i is force of arms in 1 1 47 8 A . . Mum n the H e as a favourite hero of Mooris h history . w

a s a his sk i w as i and k s gre t hor em n , n wh te chee

his s a k and his a i k . H e ruddy , eye d r be rd th c w as learned in “ the L aw and the Prophets and

a of . a all devoted lover p oetry But , bove , he w as a a a i is a a nd a ss an gre t dm n tr tor , p ed on ‘ organized E mpire to his de sc e ndants q I t was in his time thatS ic ily was ruled by N orman

ounts and the two R o ers ather and son were men C , g , f ,

r t t he took Al eria unis and Tri ol o ea abili . T T f g y y g , p i, and would have carried their - conquests further } (says the Arab historian) b utfor a quarrel which resulted in war with the B zantine E m eror whom the de eated y p , y f and b r t ea ded in Cons antinople .

as ot r a mea ns W he n h H e w n a tic ular s to the . e w as e at n h p b e , e ot some frie nds to allow the mse lve s to b e buried alive withb re athin gole s arrange d. At night he took his followe rs to the battl e fie ld an addre s se d u e stions t h H as s w q o t e faithfu l de ad. e w an e red by his o e rate who l c nfe d s to d of the glorie s of Paradis e . W he n the dup e s had “ " one he uried his frie nds in re a l e a rne s t d me n t ll no . De a e tale s g , b . 1 One of the tow ns te -e s rab lis he d by Ab d e l M umin was Me nine a 1 1 o and the w ate r s u l of all e e laid on ( p p y S was by him. e al so b u r t the c as tle atG i bral tar tri st Afte r the de ath of the s ec ond e r his s on G re o los tAl ia t , g ge r and T unis to Ab d c l M umin whco us e te nded his m ira till it , x p inc luded S in and th hol f o p a e w e o N rthAfric a . ’ Ab d- e l - M umin s son A ak f , bou Y oub Yusse , who

him 1 1 6 was s * succeeded ( 3) a great tudent , and a i is a dm n tr tor , who would be better k nown to is for his i h tory, but ecl p s e by his more famous

E l a s brother M n ur .

T he greatest of this family was Abou Yussef a is k Y coub , who usually nown emph atica lly as ” E l M ansur the Victorious (s ometimes written

A a s H e a lm n or). be t three C hristian Kings

i i s of C as i L and A a comb ned (K ng t lle, eon , r gon) on the field of Alarc os (1 1 9 5 Of a n e a rly a of his f i a is ' dventure , the ollow ng t le told

On his return from one of many victorious c amp aigns in Spain he i hi T i s ojourned w th s army at Sallee . he r number w as a a a in w too gre t to be ccommod ted the to n , so an encampment w as se t up for them on the other s ide of the River Bou R agre g. When the E mperor visited this camp an d sa w its mighty

s w as a i him number he overcome, and prostr t ng s f i i a s as of f i el w th true Or ent l ec t y eel ng, he

’ hi i i i T is s a is a roused s court ers cur os ty . h he t fied

A e rroe s one of the mostfamou s M us lim hiloso he rs his ro e r v , p p ( p ‘ name is Ab u - l- W alid- ib n-R oshd w a s at one time im ris one d him ), p y “ " — b ec au se he wrote Ve nu s then is one of the Divinitie s a glos s on a l o H e w as l i e rate d afte rw ards on e in e tte r unde r c lassic a auth r. b b g b c e i an r a s tood and acc om s hie d the s uc e d ng monarc h, E l M su , as he h died c lose frie nd into oroc co , w re e .

’ The reign of E l M ansur s son is remarkable only for an emba ssy sent by King john of E ngland to s olicit help against his rebelliou s h i a s . T e s s a a is B ron tory told by M tthew P r , one of s s i af the Ambas sador ent be ng Robert , terwards

A f A a s . bbot o St . lb n

The rei n o the Almohades endured 1 8 ears g f 4 y , and gave way before a third torrent of dese rt trib es inrushin rom the desert red with reli ious zeal g f , fi g , and ambitious to “ clean out the Courtyards of the Almi ht ’ ’ g y . T

C H APT E R VI I .

The E m re ru mb e s p i C l .

Lik e all other families who obtained the throne and whose leaders cl aimed to rule as “ Prince of ” ai f i a i i fs is the F th ul , the Ben M r n ch e w hed to establish a descent from the prophet . But that

r m the Proc l ama ion of I b n m 1 1 d at of b D b b u F o t T u art1 2 , to e h A u e s m 1 269 . I b n al dun te ll s us thatE l M amum one of the l ate r Almora ide s f K , v . be c ame s uffic ie ntly p hilos op hical to re b u e those who b e l ie ve d in the " k M e hdi M ohamme d I b n T umart. One of his disc ours e s from the “ ‘ mos que p ulp it c ontaine d the follow ing : C all not I b n T umart the ’ u m c al hi athe r t e s inle ss I ma , l m r h w re tc he d s inn e r and imp os te r. " s f t r l m T he re is no M e hdi b ut J e su o N azare h. S t an e y ust this have s ou nded to the simp le and c re dulous ze alots of the s se rt. a A rab Berber s and it was me nt not de cent , notorious that the Beni M arin were Berbers i and spoke that l anguage . C onsequently the r chronicler composed a pretty s tory of how a fa ir Arab damozel courted by four admire rs gave

s f and had e e k f e f her el to one , to s re ug rom the others with her hus band (also an Arab) in the

’ s of s fa i s tent her mother m ly (Berber ), where the

a family forgot Arabic and le rned Berber . From this Arab s tock (so the legend run s) s prang the i tr b e of the Beni M arin . T he fact s eems to be that the Beni M arin were

a i i e ik A a i s Berber nom d c tr b s , who l e the lmor v de (L e mtu na) were in the habit of crossing the

s i i s in border nto Morocco dur ng the ummer , i order to pasture and water the r flock s and herds . T he Spanish wa rs of the Almoh ades had been a s i s ai u a i in the er ou dr n on the pop l t on , much sa w a as a i a s of a i me y the N poleon c w r Fr nce , w th the a ddition al intens ity th at when the Mooris h wa rriors went to Spain they took their families

i and a T h fa w th them st yed there . e ct th at the Almoh a des employed not only a “ Black Gu ard of mercen a ry negroes but s ome thous a nds of

Christian troo s i s i i p , po nt emphat cally to th s

i of a i he deplet on n t ve Mohammedan warriors . T — Beni M a rin his torian Abou Mohamme d Sala h

i i ih 1 2 6 A . D . a of i (wr t ng 3 , the heyd y the r

s ri s a i f 1 2 a a n s o 1 . m. pro pe ty) t tes th t the ummer 6 ,

s a i is i the e nom d Berbers , on the r summer v t to

f r a o a e Morocco , ound the count y l rgely dep pul t d , and instea d of returning "to the dese rt settled there . T he fan atical in stincts a nd custom ary restless ness of the new settlers were s uccessfully pl ayed

i s and u se A a i upon by the r leader , to the r b c ’ — his torian s expression they devoured the king " i a i E i dom p ecemeal . But a well org n zed mp re lik e that of the Almoh ade s did not fall without a s a nd as a as evere and prolonged struggle , l te 1 244 the Almohades won a gre at battle and i killed the rul ng E mir of the Beni M arin . South Morocco w as not finally s ubdued till the ca pture T i of k in 1 2 2 A . D a i M arra es h 7 . ; ng er held out t ll

1 2 7 3 . The continuous fighting and struggles tha t

a nd a i of went on , the fin l v ctory the more

a s a s a i a s i barb rou p rty , cau ed w despre d de truct on and dis union from which Morocco never re f i i a s covered . None o the Ben M ar n Sult n dis played the organizing power of the Almoravides and A a s and a k of li lmoh de , the l c centra zed

government from which the country is s till suffering is largely due to the anarchic struggles

f i The A a a s o this per od. lmoh de b ttle were

a s f an E i a ai s a f s s b ttle o mp re g n t extern l oe , tho e of the Beni Marin the outcome of intern al inter T ne c ine strife resulting in destruction . hey f i in ai as a i s as ought ndeed Sp n , but ll e not ’“ i masters of the Span s h Moors .

T heir chief con structive work w as the building

f F z l i n 6 A . D I o New e (Fez e Jed d) i 1 2 7 . ndeed Fez w as as essentia lly the metropolis of the Beni

a i a s a ak s w as of i M r n , M rr e h the two preced ng I f i dyn asties . t was adorned by the ormer w th the Libr a ry Mo s que and m any other fine i i bu ld ngs .

I n 1 3 7 4 the const a nt bick erings which cha ra c te rise d the M arinid dynasty came to s uch a pitch that the kingdom s of Fez a nd Morocco were split at A i i of a a i i i e z mur , the l ne dem rc t on be ng the r v r

Bou Oum s r- rebbia ; it w as re - united later ; but a s a s ign of deca dence the fa ct is signific a nt . C hristian Sp ain w as ra pidly ous ting the Moorish

s T is and T i o i had for ruler , un r p l gone ever .

' ’ z 3 S e e the re p ly to Alp honso s le ate e s by Ab u Yu s se f Yak u b in 1 27 6 Addre s s ourse l es to Be n e l- A mar Moorish in of G re nde I am y v ( K g l . " b uta gues tfrom ab road. Finally in 1 47 1 the last direct des cendant of the

Beni Marin dyn as ty was ass a ssin a ted .

E l a as of A i a i a a a W tt rz l , belong ng to coll ter l

a s and his br nch , ucceeded to the throne , , the

W attasid as for a 1 00 a s . dyn ty , endured ne rly ye r I t is difficult to ascertain the extent of their dominions ; but cert ainly the Portugues e held m any of the principal towns on the Atlantic s a and i f i s in e boa rd , drew tr bute rom the tr be the i i i mmed ate ne ghbourhood .

i W attasid a By the t me the dyn sty ended, the

Corsair Khayr - al - din (B a rbarossa) had conquered

A ia T is and T i i in a of lger , un , r pol the n me the

a T k s s i a ai Ottom n ur , under who e nom n l suzer nty they remained till the French took posses sion to i l the grea t rel ef of al concerned .

I C H APT E R V I I .

ff The Rise of the She ri s .

I n the ea rly pa rt of the s ixteenth century the chiefs of South Morocco took coun sel together on

sad i of i and a the pl ght the r country , greed to

A E rrou a in and sai “ i of bou , d , W ll you buy Fez ’ for 00 i a s i f s s a me 5 d n r Be ng re u ed , You h nt

e t it this ear s a i m . g y then , d the holy an

E a ai ot his i a s a nd i ventu lly the S nt g d n r , w th the ” s “ Fe z is s at of a word your the end the ye r ,

is The iff d tributed the money to the poor . Sher

in 1 in a a i the entered Fez 549 , ccord nce w th ” promis e bought from the H oly Prophet .

One of the Sheriffs (Ab u - M arwan Ab d e l M alik) obt ained the throne by force of arms from his s and nephew , who fled to the Portugue e induced Don Sebastia n to invade Morocco with

H f a A an enormous army . e w as de eated t lcazar

and k i as a s w as his é é . The lled , l o prot g victorious King died of s ick ness on the day of

i i as it i s of v ctory , wh ch , cost the l ve three Royal

s a s is f k as “ a of per on ge , o ten nown the B ttle the

T hree Kings . I n 1 59 1 a memora ble expedition w as made to

Ti s a for a mbuctoo , where the negroe ple ded qu rter

“ ” i s a re i s . w th the word , We brother Musl m T his raid re s ulted in the tr an s port to Morocco of

as and i a k and i much tre ure , vory , both bl c wh te . My L ady N icotine is s a id to have firs t come to Morocco in 1 59 2 riding on an elephant from

a and i i a of ha the Sud n , the leg t m cy her cult s since formed a s eriou s subject of theological

controversy . One of the unh appy incident s of the first (or

’ H asani) line of Sheriffs w as the five yea rs an archy which s ubvened on the death of Abul

Abba s - Ahma d (1 603 T he successful c andi

a w a s i a a son of A - A as d te Z d n ( bul bb ), who was as sisted by 2 00 E nglis h adventurers under

C a ai Giffa pt n john rd .

T s s a i and f is he e trouble bec me chron c , rom th time onwa rd the history of the k ingdom under the H as ani Sheriffs forms one s ad s eries of s ordid s a s i i w as qu bble , dur ng wh ch the country torn to i p eces .

H A T I X C P E R .

The ilnl She r ffs F e e i .

* T he Sheriffs of S igilmas sa c an undoubtedly trace their genealogy b ack to the Prophet

a e Ali at his si Moh mm d through , once cou n a nd

o - in- a T re f s n l w . hey a there ore by birth the

i f s s i of I d i r ght ul uccessor to the K ngdom r s . Moh ammed is s aid to h ave given the protagonist

T he old c ap ital of the c as e s of T a-f(h)ilalt (the p lac e of the H ilali " Ara s he nc e the name Filali riffs b ) S he . of is fa i a e f in H a E as n i isi th m ly fi edj z , the ter d v on

f A i The s of fa i s in o rab a . fir t the m ly to ettle

w a s ai E l H as a son of as i at Morocco Moul n , K m ,

of i i i a i the end the th rteenth century , on the nv t t on of i a i a s in a i a s the nh b t nt , order th t the r d te crop “ might be blessed by the presence of direct ” descendants from the Prophet .

ai E shshe rif of a s of s Mul , one the he d the hou e , ” and a fa vourite leader again s t the “ I nfide ls a i of s bout the m ddle the eventeenth century ,

’ a i of T a m qu rrelled w th the people bou asa t.

H is s on ai a a i i , Mul Moh mmed , c ptured the r c tadel , and in revenge the father w as impris oned by the D i hi i K aid of S igilmas sa . ur ng s ca pt vity he w as a a a i a ttended by mul tto concub ne , who bec me the mother of the famous Sultan I smail and his

ai ah i a i hi brother Mul M d . Me nwh le, s son

a s i of S i ilmas Moh mmed t rred up the people g sa, ousted the Kaid and formed a little kingdom in

u the S s . T hus began the advance to the throne of the

Fil iff T he s ale e Sher s . fir t to rule the whole realm was Ras hid (ca lled the Great T afilatta of i T h brother the Mohammed jus t ment oned . e

Vi de the Kitab E listik sa of Ahme d ib n KhalidE s s laoui E u -nasiri the date - alms of the c ase s of T afilaltare s till and tl famous p ( jus y) .

By 1 1 04 the Sultan had left to no tribe in E l

M o re i a s All i g b e ther rm or horses . were n the

a s of Ab ids his a aia h nd the ( gu rd) the Oud , the

Ait and iffs a i Zemmour the R , who were w g ng

H a r t oly W a C eut a .

’ T hrough I smail s energy and a rmy organiza

i as t s a of E t on the co t own were cle red uropeans , T angier w as taken from the E nglish Larache and Arzil a from the Sp ania rd s

s s was a s a ai and By the Mo lem he revered S nt ,

a i i “ a k of I s a h m ghty pr nce , the Bulw r l m . By C a r a c te r . the C hristian s he w as repres ented as B a rba rity

h a s i . T e as s li s per on fied truth , u u l , e between

H is s i thes e two extremes . per onal ty w as com f a i ik a o H V I I I . m nd ng, l e th t our own enry H e w as cruel when thwarted ; but on the whole

hi i n hi is s uited s t mes a d s subjects . H amorou s as pirations after the hand of the daughter of

L a Val ie and L is XI V . i i a an l re ou , only nd c te

f s ia i i s of ignorance o the oc l cond t on France .

One of the Re de mp tionis t Fa the rs (Pe re Bu smor) give s this p ortrait of I smail at80 H e is of middle ta ture his fac e s ome whatlon and S , l e an his eard for e d and u ite w hite his c om le ion almost l ac , b k q , p x k w h a w hite s ot ne ar his nos e his e e s are s arklin and his oic e it p , y p g v H e aul ts u on an thin he c an la his hand on and itis one s trong. v p y g y , of his common di e rsions at one motion to mount his horse draw his v , c imiter and c utoff the he ad of the s l ave who holds hi s s tirrup H e c hange s his c lothe s three time s a day H e has a re a dy and wit antic i ate s the thou hts of suc h as a l to him and his answ e rs , p g pp y , i h ” are shortand p t y . A M O O R I S H FRON T D oo s

( see page

to administer during the late interregnum (E n

" ash's i a a is M e k s N ) . Sule m n bol hed the (town relying solely on the “ Ac hours (port

s f C i ia and s and “ Ze k ats due ) rom hr st ns jew , H did (duties levied from Arab merch ants). e

for s a i of i i s at much the re tor t on the bu ld ng Fez , and ended a successful reign of 2 7 years by s i a s i s of a son elect ng nephew to ucceed n tead , i the former be ng the more worthy .

H A T E X C P R .

M o e rn T me s d i .

’ I t w as i i of i a s dur ng the re gn Sule m n nephew ,

Ab d- e r - a a a k A i R hm n , th t the French too lger a, when all the a uthority of the Mooris h Sultan w a s s tra ined to k eep his s ubjects from joining — in H oly W ar to s h a re in the fa te of the

ia s . As it w as s i i Alger n , the ubsequent fight ng n

i s in a w a r i a i Alger a re ulted w th Fr nce , dec ded by the b attle of I sly I n the s ubs equent ” “ rectific ation of the frontier between Algeria

nd is a a Morocco, the French recogn ed th t the

a is of T a w as importa nt o s u t Moorish .

e a e ar to ha e e e n su se u e ntl res-im ose d T h y p p v b b q y p . Ab d- s r- R ahman l aid out the Agudal Pa rk at

T is sis of a s i s of a s M arrak esh . h con ts er e g rden

i its a and a a i e ach w th n me g rdener , pl nted w th

k i of f i i s s one or more nd ru t tree (ol ve , plum ,

a s a s and ai i a i s pe r , or nge , cont n ng v r ou flowers and herbs imported from a broad a s well f k as n ative ; the whole orms a really noble par .

=l< >l<

a had is si 1 688 and it w as C eut been Span h nce , the custom for the Christia n s to build wooden blockhous es for collection of dues on the

a i s i s i s i bound ry , wh l t on the r de the Moor bu lt

I n 1 8 a i simil a r construction s . 58 the Sp n ards erected a building in s tone and flint and put their

“ fl a it a i it L a C a . T he g upon , c ll ng oron neighbouring Moors a sk ed them to pull it down and s D s f s revert to the old cu tom ; the on re u ed , i and a Moorish mob demolished it. T h s resulted in w ar and i i s a ia s a a n , the v ctor ou Sp n rd ex cted i i of s i i a s ndemn ty f terl ng, wh ch w i i a a a C s s l qu d ted by ch rge on the u tom , these ” i a in a s of E a ffi i be ng pl ced the h nd urope n o c al s . I n 1 868 w as held the C ry s tal P ala ce M arket

Be side s this unde r the re su ltanttre a t of 1 860 the S ania ds , y , p r we re to ha e the ri ht of c has tis in the Be r e r trib e s in the ne i h ourhood v g b g b , Wi thou t de c laring war on t e S ultan . I t is in e x erc ise of this p art of the tre aty thatwar we nton during 1 909 . ’ in I I E i i i other word s N apoleon I s . Great xh b t on

T he a f M i at Paris . Sult n o orocco sent a spec al envoy with an exhibit of the various product s of hi s country .

h a T e a i e l H asa I I I . s Sult n Mul n , who ucceeded

in 1 8 for 2 1 a s and . H e 7 3 , ruled ye r ruled well

k his s s in s an ept turbulent ubject order , by con t tly Ab d-e l touring round with his army and established his

hi a authority in S u s . On s de ath the throne p s sed

Ab d - e l - A i s a f in to z z, who ucceeded pe ce ully

1 8 . At s wa s his 9 4 fir t he governed by Regent ,

S i A a s a i is a i w as hm d , who e dm n tr t on good , but after the attainment of his majority in 1 9 00 he took over the reins of Government and proved i i i hi h ms elf ncompetent to dr ve s restive te am .

” T he s tormy “ Conference of Alge c e ira s w as

in 1 06 a s of i k ri s held 9 , as re ult b c e ng between

France and Germany .

“ ” T he rinc i al r e u l ations e ac te d the Al ec eiras Confe re nc e p p g x by g , e w on ul th f llo in whic hstarted its s ss n J 3o , 1 907 we re the o w g Polic e to b e lac e d nu e r the au thorit of the S ul tan and to (1 ) p y , b e re c ruite d by the M aghze n ( M oorish Gove rnme nt) from

M ohamme dans . 2 T his olice to b e office re d re nc h and S anishinstructors ( ) p by F p , s elec te d ranc e and S ain and a ro ed the S ultan b F p p p v by . T he ir tot e fie c tiv e to b e to and n tor G e n o b e i T he ir I s p e c e ral t S w ss . t an w ith owe r of is su in note o sta lishe d A S ta e B k p g s t b e e b . i ners o ha e the ri htof ac u irin l and an of uildin Fore g t v g q g d b g. On the frontie rs of Alge ria the e nforc e me ntof regulations to b e the e c lus i e ri ht of ranc e and on the S anish frontiers x v g F , p thatof S p ain.

Se c tion VI .

T op ogra p hy.

T he M oorish T ow ns .

H AVE assi is s and cl fied the Moor h town ,

given a fe w words to each class . Details to be found in the description of

a i a k and a re the two c p tals , M rra esh Fez, not

a e and i a sk s of ou rnie s repe t d , typ c l etche j to these two cities from the coas t are inserted to

“ ” indicate how we ge t there .

T he contents of this section are

A A C H APT ER . P GE P GE

I - General R emarks

II - R oute toM awakesk (fromM azagan)

I - Route to Fez rom L ao/ache V. (f )

- V. Fez

1 46 C HAP T ER PAGE PAGE

— “ VI I The CoastTowns (a) Open

(b) Closed

VI I I —The S acred Cities

- M ountain I X . Border Towns and

Fortresses

X —S ome S ou thA tlas Towns

C H I APT E R .

h M hT s T e ooris ow n .

G e ne ral Re mark s .

Morocco is ess entially an agricultural and

as a so a a s i p tor l country , th t the gre t town to wh ch we are accus tomed under modern E urope an i i i A indu s tr al cond t on s do not exist . t the same time the country has a lways been practically self s i so a s a i s as are upport ng, th t uch rt cle needed by

are for s a in the people the mo t p rt made the country . Owing to the absence of railways and roa ds the

ans is i a s of a tr port ent rely conducted by me n c mels , s a nd a u i ai i an mule , horses , nd n order to m nta n — adequate supply of these beasts their export is f i orb dden .

T he s is a i i of net re ult , th t w th the except on the

s c a “ I ia open port on the o st , the three mper l Cities seats of Government) and a fe w

“ H Ci i are a i s of oly t es , there no gre t collect on h i f f a i if . T e t s o centr l zed l e coun ry , however, ull

a i a s and s s a a w lled v ll ge mall town , the l tter but

fo T s a i a grade above the rmer . he e have r sen p rtly f a a a i s s of man t rom the n tur l greg r ou ne s , par ly f a si for a i and a rom de re mutu l protect on , p rtly from the necessity for a centre for the exchange of commodities . I t would be useless to go through a list ofnames and descriptive details which would weary by

i I a f e a i monotonous repet tion . sh ll there ore d l w th the towns generally under classified headings . T he ma in architectural details and pl anning will be found in the descriptions of Marrak es h and

Fez .

C H APT ER I I .

Rou te to M a rra k e shfrom M aza ga n .

We ride through the new part of the town parallel

i as a i “ s w th the seashore , p t the tr d ng Store a nd a of f i u s soon , the bodes men le t beh nd , A we emerge into the open country . s the ground

is s s i k Ba of a a an r e l ghtly , we overloo the y M z g on

f i s a i a s a i the le t , wh l t on the other h nd r ses m ll h ll i on which ne stle s ome Moor s h country dwellings . Before we wheel to the right round a spur of the

i “ M k hazni Government soldier i s us h ll , our a ( ) b d Af f i ’ take a last look at the city . ter a e w m nutes

of is a i i enjoyment th truly ch rm ng v ew , we turn resolutely inland . ’ ' We mak e a short first day s ride a nd enca mp I t i in a walled garden planted with fig tre es . s

i and a a s and s are i even ng, c ttle, go t , heep be ng drive n to the water close at hand . H erd boys

i s i tootle on reed p pe ; women come , p tcher on

e a a a a s did of . h d , to dr w w ter, Rebecca old I n hopes of peaceful s lumber we go to res t ; but alas for human hopes ! I n the night a thunder

This is alwa s ad isa le as an artic le s left e hind or otte n y v b , y b b e se nt for and the rec aution is usua ll ado ted e s l the ; p y p , y by ll r e xp e rienc ed trave e . s s a and—o i k storm bur t overhe d , w ng to the slac " s of e s— a a s sa s and ne s our tent rop the c nv g , we

ge t wet .

T he i ak s and a isk morn ng bre fine, we enjoy br ride of two or three hours to a S ok (M arket Pl ace)

i a f where t h appens to be mark et day. We buy h l * a s a as and a i a a i it heep , re dy ro ted , c p t l e t ng

k s s f s ak a and ma e , upplemented by re h b ed bre d

. The a e at in i i i fas i a honey l tter we pr m t ve h on ,

k of a in a and a of chun bre d one h nd , lump honey

in and all a a “ comb the other, we gree th t never

w as there s uch bread and s uch honey .

’ Another four or five hours riding bring u s to

r a s of a s a C ov e . our h lt , the hou e Moor who hold ” M ohallat C i a of i a 1 ( ert fic te Protect on , see p ge 4 )

f r of from one o our party . We a e glad the ” “ of his s for in i it “ ai s cover hou e , the n ght r n d cats an dogs . Before we retire to res t we discuss the qualities

d ia “ i a s of a an pecul r l ttle w y the c mel , moved thereto by an object lesson on the lea thery quality

f ski i si his i had o the n n de mouth , wh ch been i afforded u s in the course of the afternoon r de .

k i k a and a s a You now the Pr c ly Pe r , perh p h ve

I t is the c ustom to roast a s he e p whole and disp ose of it re ady d cooke .

d ates growing in golden clusters on the magnifi cent palms that form so well k nown a feature of E the Southern C apital . aten fresh lik e this they are juicy and delicious ; but are never exported ik in fi A l e thos e grown T a lal t. ll the palm trees i i if ” swarm w th b rd l e . Blue Rollers and pigeons dart irides cent all al ong the banks of the and everywhere the egret is Ha unting hi s white plumage .

C A I H PT ER I I .

' L Ma rratk e shfl

T he i is of s a a i i i c ty re pect ble nt qu ty , be ng nine hundred yea rs of age (s e e page As the capital of the South it took the pla ce of

A hmat Ghoma t si f i i s a f g (or ), the te o wh ch l e e w

s f I - f hour journey urther s outh . ts bye name o E l H amra (the R e d) is a mply justified : the city

a s 2 0 f i re a as s of w ll , 5 to 3 eet h gh , a m de ( u ual) tab b ia i a i a s a g: to wh ch the e rth mp rt ruddy hue . A R e d C ity . 9“ For sc e ne on the T e ns if i l e t R ve r se e i lu stration on p ag 1 2 .

For lan C it se e a e 266 . t p y , p C onc rete s tone s e art and lime mi e d moulded in w oode n t , , x , frame w or s. e a te n firm w n e T he frame wor s e k b by oode ramm rs . k ar mo e d hi he r as the w or o T b b ia ldin 6 ur s g p r re sse s . a bui g e e r v k g . v y lar e l in the ac c ounts of Chris tia n sla es whommostoft 9 e istin g y v , by x g w or was done S ee a e k . p g I t s t ands in a well ~ w ate re d plain amid st m agni

fic e nt s of a s a nd a k grove p lm tree , b c ed by the

a i f A I n a a i gre t cha n o the tlas . ccord nce w th the

a s of s i are a s usu l cu tom the Moor , exter ors lmo t

i a s s of a . T he a tot lly neglected gre t c ty g te , tho e a fe w i a a s s s and pr v te entr nce , the mo que tower , s i f i s f i si ome publ c ounta n , orm the only mpo ng architectural features ; but the interiors of some of the hou s es are magnificent in the extreme (se e page and many of the wa lled - ih garden s are

k h s a nd a aa s bea utifully ept . T e thorough fa re b z r are i i E a if and in the humm ng w th truly stern l e , mid st of a population of between and

i E a Of you w ll not find twenty urope ns . pictures que effects and uniquely E astern human interest the streets a nd the m ark et places are full whils t if you s eek unadulterated bea uty which

il i a is i s s i i o and w l thr ll every rt t c en e w th n you , g s as I a o s i of a tand h ve done , up n the umm t tower and look across the city toward s the su n as

s s f s and s f i i he et over the roo top , edge the r ng ng palm groves and the mountain peak s with brilliant hues . I do not know whether it is on account of the dryness of the air (se e page but cert ain it is tha t s ome p eculia r atmos pheric condition s produce i i all colour ng, wh ch travellers pronounce to be

i . T he i s are i s ie un que t nt mmen ely var d , but

is a a k i a I a a there m r ed predom n nce of red . h z rded a conjecture on one occasion when watching the glories of Ghu roob (sunset) in the company of

’ s iffs a a s i s ome cultured Sher , th t perh p the c ty

- a of s k bye n me red wa due to s y as well as earth . T hey a ls o ha d noticed the predomin ance of the

n a i colour a d dm tted the inference .

a ak s is a i a is i i its M rr e h typ c l Moor h c ty , w th i i i f i * s s o as a a and a . three d v on K b h , Med n Mell h T he former occupies a quarter separ a ted from the city proper by fortification s pierced at the two

i i s a s a s a extrem t e by g te ; th t on the We t , h rd by ’ Bab Robb is the Ba b (G ate) H agn aou fi tha t on

’ E as s a s a r is the t clo e by the Mell h (Jew qu rte ), l D i the Bab s jed d .

’ T he a s a is i i Mell h (jew qu rter) exceed ngly d rty , and the s tre e t s are full of rubbis h which s eems

b e a in i a never to removed , lthough the Med n h the work of clearing the s treets is regularly performed by donkey men who s hoot their loads outside l a s . Al sa I a s s the w ll the me , h ve een hou e interiors in the Mell ah s potles sly clean and in

T h r f k good repair . e Jews a e orced to wear bl ac

l e Se e p an, p ag 266 .

T he street s of the K aise riyah (covered M a rk et Pl ace) are protected by a b ar or chain drawn

a ss s o a a i cro them , th t you c nnot r de through , but

s k All K aise ri ah s s an mu t wal . the y treet ( d some others) h a ve bamboo s or reeds thrown a cross

i are a i i s them , over wh ch tr led v ne or other * s T he i i a a s of i so creeper . pr nc p l qu rter the c ty

’ a are L M oissi Bab Ai a a i tre ted , l n , Rhe d , Ze toun ,

’ a a Bab D ka a E l a ia K aS a h M z l , ou l , Koun d , p ,

i i A as &c T he a is f S d bel bb , . roadw y o ten s prinkle d with wa ter to lay the dust and k eep the air A f is i of cool . urther character t c Morocco — trades is here well exemplified z e ach trade has

its s s . H are s i a s own treet ere the p ce merch nt ,

a s s and so there we find the le ther eller , on . So important is the latter industry th at it is f sub - i i and a s s i e urther d v ded , we h ve treet l n d

i s s s and s i sa &c . I w th hoe hop , other w th ddlery , suppo se it is difficult to find anywhere finer leather a nd a k a ’ s i better le ther wor th n here ,1 very uper or

i s in to anyth ng on ale the coas t towns .

a is a i a s and has W ter l d on to e ch hou e ,

so f a i s time s f is been rom the e rl e t ,I long be ore th i i i i convenience w as obta nable in E ngl sh c t es .

it l i n s e e o For il u s trat o p p osite p age . e n r i ll tra te d n a TS emm s a e us o p ge 26 1 . p " 8 t ‘ zde Kaoud e l Kaita s , p . 3 6. A C O V E R E D S T R E E T I n the S ou the rn C ap ital

a and i s see illustration a e w tered , p cture que ( , p g T hey extend b eyond the Kasbah and are

e for an in s reserv d the Sult , whose ab ence the

produce is sold . Pa tron T he city is under the saintly protection of * Seven H oly Men whose graves are here situated .

M os u e s . q The principal mosques other than the K utub uiya

are - T a of i i Ab b as i W s h t S d Bel ,Tly ng to the e t

of D k a a Ga and a i f 1 60 the ou l te , d t ng rom 3 ; B b D k l i a and the a ou a a mosque fac ng the g tes,

a i f f in T ashifin d t ng rom 1 558 ; that of Yusu b fl,

of i i M aimoun s Ga and that S d , clo e by the te

Robb .

C H APTE R I V .

Ri e to F f m L c A d e z ro ara he .

The a i prep rat ons, the outfit , and the general

i of a are sa as s l rout ne tr vel , the me tho e a ready

i a 1 and i . descr bed on p ge 5, do not want repeat ng

T ma i e a here y, however, be some nter st ttached to

’ S idi Be l A as Mu] e l su r S idi ule iman S idi Ab d-ui- iz bb , K , S , Az , - S idi adi Ai ad S idi Yus e f b in Ali and S idi I maumS wahili . K y , , “ H is hos ital ad oins the m s ue 1 p j o q . Built Ab d e l Mumin in the i sth c e ntur vide Le o Africanus t by y, , P! 363 a description of an actual ride to the Northern

C a i a i i i a s ki of p t l , wh ch nd c te the nd country traver sed and the s ights to be se e n on route .

>l< >i< >l< 3 i At la st all is ready and we are 0 . Sunr se

u in s a i i sees s the addle, p ss ng through the c ty b id fa gate with faces set e as tward . We rewell to

i i s and a s si a a and the v ner e g rden out de L r che , skirt the River L ou kk os (E l K u s) over a plain devoted entirely to pasturage and broken only by a fe w meagre tree clumps with a line of forest - clad

- i hills fringing the south western hor zon . Our * i ia s i a i is Ci of A a a mmed te de t n t on the ty lc z r ,

i a a i n which we find in ts usu l st te of d rt a d neglect . After Quitting the city we push through a succes sion of thickets and te - cross the River k i L ou k os . T Now we find ourselves n a fine well - watered plain ending in a cluster of orange

e f iffs f . groves , the prop rty o the Sher o Wazzan a i of il Soon we mount ser es stony h ls , our horse s and mules literally scratching their w ay over dry

a k i tr c s, strewn w th pebbles ; then once more we emerge upon a pleasant track a cross undulating

a a f slopes , c p ble o bearing bounteous crops .

Se e p age 21 1 . ” M ore c orrec tl w ritten “ E l Kus b ut I follow the con entional t y , v E ump e an translite rati on. T at a i and rees occur but r re ntervals , then only " singly or in small and scattered c lump s fi We are constantly passing herds of cattle in the mids t ' of i of i I b is wh ch swarm crowds wh te , r long legged birds which are on intimate terms with the

a ima s and i k s i a n l perch upon the r bac , the r he ds ,

and even their horns . The size and condition of the oxen s peak eloquently of good s train and fat pasturage ; they form a striking contrast to the

- fe d - ass s under and over laden e , mules and camels f o the travellers we meet . Now on the right we are passing the ruins of “ Bosrah a E l H a ra f ,l surn med the red ( m ) rom the colour of the hill of Sidi Amor e l H adi on which i i f it stands . We not ce that the bast ons o the

f i a i i i f ort fic t ons are round , a dev at on rom the usual

s uare is i i s i q style proper to Moor h bu ld ng , wh ch s uggests that they are the work of E uropean T e des igners . he sacred City of Wazzan (s e

200 is s is a and i ri page ) but five hour d t nt , the d st ct

M oroc co was onc e a c ountr full of fore st land w he nce the omans y , R ob tained ab undanc e of lions and othe r w ild animals for the are nas of d w e t ie s o de struc tion ha e the ir gladiatorial an ild be as t fights . C n ur f v done the ir w ork aide d b he re dita ry dislike of nomadv de s c ended tribe s h de s tru c tion of tree s for woods whic ofie re c ove r to a foe . T his has re sulte d in the s hrin a e of ri e rs e e r ri e r in Moroc c o show s k g v , v y v unmistake able signs of having p osse ss e d a muc hlarge r flow of w ate r in ” i d the good old day s . V a p age s 1 2 and t C alled for its fondne ss for the soc ie ty of the se be as ts C attle “ Birds ( T air e l u os ed to b e the sit of h om l as th ital 1 S p e t e R an T remu ae . itw e cap ‘ tri e fore Alc aza il of the s c tb r was b u t.

con spicuous landmark at the base of which nestles

a i a hr ne wh tew shed Kubba (S i ). H ere the

i is i ss it e t r ver w de , and we have to cro to g to the ' a a She rarda . si ia a Nz l Our tran t negot ted , we p ss Ze rhoun by a series of “ up and downs to the foothills

of ai s i i h i the Zerhoun mount n , beh nd wh c l es * M in z T s i r i i e q u e . he e mount a ns a e nhab ted by savage and inhospitable Berber tribes who allow

“ s i i i a s and k no tranger w th n the r g te , ma e short k f ’ wor o the Sultan s tax collectors . A trying p assage through a n a rrow defile under a blazing sun brings our cavalcade out upon a pretty green valley whose freshness is most

H i ram welcome . ere we find a stone br dge (

avls in ss i a i Morocco) acro wh ch we tr vel , w th

i s i kk and energ e renewed, over the R ver Me as

ai i a ai thence to Oud a, a halt ng pl ce where we obt n a fine view of the rugged s lopes of the Zerhoun f and K annou a R anges . Now a swerve direct to the E ast leads over a vas t plateau with our goal at the end of it hidden d i by a ridge . We coast the river an top the r dge

and ! i - e l - a i lo yonder l es Fez B l , the government i and official quarter of the Northern Cap tal .

T he o a l C it ne t in im ortance to Fe z and M arra e sh s ee R y y , x p k , p age 1 7 1 . C H APT ER V .

F z e .

° ' " ° ' (3 4 6 s N . and 4 3 3 1 5 w . )

0 ma A a a Fez , y ll h preserve thy l nd and thy “ garden s and refresh them with the water of his

“ s ! T s ia a is s as cloud erre tr l Par d e , who e pect “ n i charms a d entrances the senses . H ouse p led

“ H s a s of on ou e , one and all l ved by the sweete t “ streams ! to Speak of thee is my “ s a i i ! con ol t on , to remember thee my del ght Such is the rhapsody of Abou Mohammed

a a of G a i of e l S l h , renad , the wr ter Round Kartas on the Metropolis of the Northern King

i C i C i i of dom , and certa nly the two ap tal t es the Moroccan “ E mpire form a wonderful pair both

is and un- a so thoroughly Moor h Europe n , yet

k s i i unlik e each other . M arra e h s essentially a C ty

of i is a Ci of H i . the Pla n , Fez ty the lls

T he a a k as “ ai of pl te u nown the Pl n Fez ,

as of i is i a upon the e tern edge wh ch the town s tu ted ,

i s a f o se a and s l e bout eet ab ve level , run

s T i i s nd— i E as t and We t . h rty m le long a at ts

i s i —fifte e n i ss it a s w de t po nt m les acro , t per to one i E i i i . a and s m le Fez l es on the stern extrem ty , bounded to the South by the hills of the Beni ’ i i t the Z l h M t r, wh lst to the Nor h stretch a ag and Zarhoon s i i i it f i f range , d v d ng rom the pla n o

H s the Beni as an . T here are two elevated points on the outsk irts from which a good view of the city may be ’ obtained they are (1 ) the M salla of the Governor and 2 i of Me rmid on the South , ( ) the h ll the Tombs on the T he geological formation is limestone ; but sandstone quarrie s and caverns lie to the North of

i i E as s of the c ty , wh lst to the South and t bed porcelain clay afford facilities for one of the staple

i i s i ak i . I t is an Potte rie s . ndustr e , pottery and t le m ng i iffi i i i exceed ngly d cult c ty to descr be , e ther by

- i flat a of word p cture or plan , on ccount the i i in i f i var at on alt tude o ts component parts . i I 1 2 1 i I dr s I . (see page ) started the old c ty by building the quarter now known as the Aduat ” Bank “ E l K airou in a k Adu at e l ( ), , the other b n l " i i Andu was a n A . D as ) dded the n nth century . A a i f s f i s a i i t th t t me re ugee rom the Pen n ul , v ct ms

of i i s if r nternec ne tr e, were allotted the qua ter n amed Andalusian in reference to their Spanish

i i T a s i s for or g n . hese two qu rter were r val " i m e n i s . A i isi L a te i centur e th rd d v on , El y , has

S e e p lan on p age 267 .

i T he i ed er s nce grown up . town was g rdl und

i i ki in 1 2 0 i its se the Ben n Mar n ngs 4, w th pre nt a s a i f i battlemented ramp rt , bout th rty eet h gh ,

s f ie con tructed o t abb . The whole of the old city (Fez Bali) lies in a

and i a s as hollow , proceed ng eastw rd we cend a steep slope (tak en up by the gardens of E l Oyoun and the houses of the T alaa) to the state property of f the Bou Jeloud ( ather of skins). ” T he “ New City (Fez e l Jedid) was added in

1 2 is i i E a 7 4 , and s tuated on h gher ground to the st of i I t ai s a G the old c ty . cont n the K sbah ( overn ment quarter) and the palace on the North with

a the Mell h (jewry) on the South . " Fez Bali (the Old T own ) occupying about

s a i is i i one qu re m le , connected w th Fez jed d (the New occupying from four to five hundred s a a s two a s qu re cre , by or three long n rrow treets of s a k e s a i f clo ely p c ed hous , le d ng rom the centre of a s of s the town to the Mell h , the re t the pace between the two cities be ing filled by garden s

i a i of belong ng to the Sult n , wh lst eastwards these lie i a pr vate g rdens . S ave for the gardens and o k s E p ttery wor (to S . . ) the whole are a of Fez B ali is s i a s i den e w th n rrow treets , wh ch owing to the

k f c i i and n i is i bro en sur a e w nd uph ll dow h ll , tw t ng i i i T h i i and turning n every d rect on . e pr nc pal street “ D arb e l T u e e l (L ong S treet) runs from

K airouin Dar a and a A the to the M ghzen Mell h . f f e w of s s s are a : e . . a o the e treet n med g , th t the

Bab i si a C i Ga an a i f S l l h ( ha n te), a l e le d ng rom ” the K aisse riyah (B azaar) to the Mosque of

i I is it is i i k a Mula dr , paved w th red br c s and b rred by a ch ain so that only true believers may pass " A is a “ Akb aht e l Fe e ran along. nother c lled

ascento the mouse i ( f ), a long narrow artery runn ng f rom the lower town to the gardens on the South . As a rule the locale of a house is denoted by the n ame of the owner and the district

in i i is si T are i dis wh ch t tuated . here e ghteen

tric ts six in a of s i 1 E l , e ch the three ect ons ( ) i m e in E a K a rou in 2 E l A s E l L a t e . , ( ) ndalu , (3) y ch

is i is a a f a a a i d tr ct n med ter mosque or tr de gu ld , thus the H aomah e l j ama Muley I dris (District ” o M ule I dris M os ue “ H a omah e l ooti ah f y q ), J y

Old Clothes District i a a of ( , the Pett co t L ne Fez), the district of Bahk ok (Plum Mark et) and so

on .

T he s are i a i a all Pa tte rn of house bu lt pr ct c lly on one pattern : flat roofed with terraces and three s tories H ous e . ” — “ S ifi1 Ground Floor haklab e e ah M iddle ( ), S y ( ” Floor and “ k i U er Floor s i a ), Fo ( pp ), urround ng

inches b y 1 0 inche s made in a stone slab set in the floor of an adjoining closet Beit c l Ma T he wate r supply of Fez is abundant and is of two va rieties : (1 ) s pring water for drink ing a nd

2 i a s for s i s T s ( ) r ver w ter u ed dome t c purpo es . hi hafni um latter flows in innumerable channels under the

of a i house s and turn a whole host w ter m ll s . T he

i i is s a dra n ng system con equently excellent , lthough

h s s trapping is unk nown . T e treet are cleanse d

i a s a for by flush ng from tr p door m de the purpose . As befits a “ H oly City the mosques of Fez M os q ue s . a i are i B l very numerous , the most sacred be ng that of the founder Mulai I dris mentione d before (page T he actual tomb (contained therein)

r in I and its surroundings a e the finest Morocco . t se rve s as a repository for St ate document s of the

s i an and is s i i a fir t mport ce, suppo ed to be per od c lly

i i e A ha Ga i i of v s t d by the rc ngel br el , the touch ng

a s s a issi a a is whose g rment ensure dm on to P r d e . Only next in import ance is the K airouin (founded

i is a a 859 A. th s the St te church ttended by the

h a a is sai i Court . T e l rge l mp d to we gh

e 0 i and it is ask of lbs . and to hav 5 9 l ghts , the t ten mue ddhins (sacristans) to ca ll the faithful to f I ai s all is f prayer rom its tower . tcont n that le t of a once magnificent library famous throughout the a a s h a i if E st . Pe rh p t e most rt stically be aut ul mosques are those of the Andalus on the South

a ea i s and of i ac oob at E st n r the potter e , Mula J

a i T he a is the upper part ne r Fez Jed d . l tter s ia a and i i pec lly vener ble p cturesq ue , w th pent

f a nd a i i a i r roo square pyr m d c lly topped m na et , A much resembling tha t of a Christian church . curious sundial formed of thirteen bowls placed on a line of brack et s on the frontage i of a hous e opposite forms an interest ng object .

’ T he mosque s of Fez Jedid are (1 ) E 1 K bir (great) ' the Sult a n s ch apel ; (2) th at of Mulai Abdallah ; and (3) El H amra (the red) with a pretty tiled f roo . T here are public baths H amm am near several of the mos ques . T hey are simply bare

s i i e f i a and room w th t l d loor ng the w ter, hot cold ,

’ is i in k s a nd a r i are suppl ed buc et , the b the s bod es

i s a i rubbed w th cr pers of Berl n wool . T he gates of Old Fez are se ven in number : Ga te s . Bab e l M aharook * i (the Burned) the h ghest , on

s Bab S a ma Bab él H i I . We t ; then g , ad d ( ron

G a Bab e l i a Bab a a te), Jed d (New G te), Fut h , B b S i i a a nd Bab i bu j d , G sa .

{ S o c lle d ec ause on it are stuc he heads of c riminals whilst a b k t , the ir odie s are b urned b e low b . New Fez (the White City) has two gates : “ Ba b ” K u b ib at e s i Gate o the Pe to Butter and Sm n ( f f ),

Bab Sidi bu N afa . The old town contain s some good Fondak s

carav anse rie s s i a of i are ( ), the mo t mport nt wh ch of a a i C s Kittanin those N jj r n ( arpenter ), (Cotton

i s S harratin o ak s A a i Sp nner ), (R pe M er ), tt r n

s and a a s a a s i (Grocer ), the S r ( h dy), the n me be ng

f i i r i thos e o the streets n wh ch they a e s tuated . Adjoining the Fondak of the Att arin is the

r i of i i Mo stan (hos p tal or madhouse) S d Fa rj .

“ ” Fez is still the University City of Morocco . St udents a re atta ched to one of five M adrasah

chool or olle e T a (S C g ) where they lodge . hey p y no k f At rent but buy the e y rom the last occupant . the K airouin Mos que they are ta ught by Oula

m h i r e f for a (w se men), supported by prope ty l t f “ ” i i the endowment o Kirasi (chairs). Rel g on and law are rmc r al of the p p subjects , the study i s is ss T the sc ence hopele ly ob solete . hese students n f i S u b j e c ts of ha ve a annual estival n which they e lect a k a i a of is l for Moc Sult n , a ver t ble Lord M ru e

a week .

T he a k of is i i f i I ndus trie s . le ther wor Fez dec dedly n er or to that of Marrak e sh ; but it is celebrated for certain articles of clothing and for excellent tiles : whilst granaries and some the stables of Mul ai I smail (se e page H ere laboured the C hristian a his i a i s ki sl ves ca ptured by p r t cal Rover , wor ng in f a f and a i i a s e r o torture de th , eat ng the r he rt out for the deliverance th at to so m any would never m H k T a and co e . ere wor ed hom s Phelps many a stout Englishman with him (se e page H ard by are two h andsome Kubbas (shrines)

i i f - i and e i w th po nted roo s, green t led topp d w th

i a T all a w a a g lded b lls . hey entomb th t s e rthly of two Sultans : Mulai Ab d-u - Rahm an and Mulai I smail (1 67 2 Pic turesque though M e q uine z be from a dis

a s i i i a k - i t nce , tand ng on h gh ground w th p r l ke ” pla ntations of olives at its foot and the bridge

a i i i a r i for sp nned r ver w nd ng ne r , the a ch tecture ,

a a s a of the most p rt brown sh pele s m sses concrete, f is ugly and devoid o orn ament . Even the chief s treet of the B azaar with its reed - prote cted roof seem s to witness but a languid

r T he i i a a i s f r s a t a de . pr nc p l rt cle exposed o le

r F rra ah C af s oulhams and a e a je e y , tan , S , other a rticles of appa rel (se e page to which silk

T o whic h is due the name Miknase t e z-Zaitunah (Me ul uc z of the Olives ) an ap p e lla tion give n to distingu is h it from iknas e t ” T an a the home of the othe r ranc h of the M i nasi Be rb e rs who , b k , ui a r fo e d overthre w the Dynas t of the l dre e sis . Me q ne z w s fi st und b y the m in the and e of the te nthcentury T H E G E AT G AT E on M A A E H R RR K S . ( see page 7 54)

C ity W all s . The city walls are of the usual tab b ia with

quadrilateral turrets a nd nine ga tes . T he P alace and most of the other buil dings of any preten sion are due to Mul ai I smail (1 67 2 - 1 7 2 7 ) who built

d - an alf i a a al . H is much , h bu lt gre t de more

of I s m il . a most signific a nt memorial is to be found in the block s of s tone th at s trew the route from Volubilis i i to M e q u ine z . T he slaves who were br ng ng — ’ them as s oon as they h e a rd of the tyrant s

a — and lie de th threw them down , there they to i th s day .

T he s i a i street be ng level h ve no dra nage , and consequently the centre of the roadway is a

of i i a k in ai puddle l qu d filth , n le deep the r ny

a a a s ea son . The result is th t n unusu lly large number of K abakah(wooden p attens) are used in and it is s a i si the town , a mo t mus ng ght to see a

i - as o in s i a i h gh cl s Mo r spotles wh te g rments, w th

ai ski s a i i of r sed rt , w d ng through the r ver mud , perched on pa ttens en ro ute to some shop or the

f a f i hou se o r end . T he Pa tron Saint of M e q u ine z is Sidi

a b in Ai a a e Moh mmed ss , whose School degr d d his doctrines until they now tak e concrete form in the disgusting antics ofthe Aissouwa Confraternity (see page As the city owns allegiance to i a ai Me u ine z is a a the r P tron S nt , q the he dqu rters i of the Confratern ty .

The i i s s is r ver wh ch run clo e by the town now Riv e r. called the Bou Fe k ra r ; but w as formerly known

“ T he a s the or the Bou Am a ir . fertility of the soil of the pl a te a u of M e q uine z is highly praised by Leo Africanus and other

Moorish writers .

H T E VI I C AP R .

C oa s t Tow ns fr

in i r a - as s Next mpo t nce come the co t town , which fall naturally into two division s (a) Open

Port s ; (b) C losed Port s .

Op e n Ports .

T he former are the only pl acesto which E uropean

r i for a i s T ves sel s a e adm tted tr d ng purpose . he

T he authority for this is M ohamme d b e n Ahme d b e n M oha mme d b e n Ali b e n Ghazi, oi the fifte e nth c e ntur A . D . , w ho w rote an ac c ou nt of his na tive tow n u nde r the ti tle of rroudh e l hatun Pi Akhbar " - M iknase t e x Zaitunah annotate d M . R oudas unde r the name of , by , " M ono ra hie de M e u ine z ournal Asiati ue Vol . g p q (J q , 5, 1' I t is not inte nded in the p res e nt sc heme no inc lude the Sp anis h b l it l m te a o se ss ions . T he re is u t t e s ou t he ns p s y b t he m. T y c o ist of Alhuc e mas C e u ta Me lilla Pe non rye Vel e z a . ' , , S ant C ruz de M ar

Pe ue na and the Zaflarine I slands . q , — T rade . i i imo z W ax i a i tea pr nc pal p rts are l ghts , c l co , ,

ff e a s i es i i isi s co e , sug r, p c , ron goods, t nned prov on ,

i i s &c . a a in s b scu t , , tob cco , met l sheet , pottery, E x p orts ai k p nts , cement , drugs, matches, cloc s and me

h ni al i T h i i re c a c art cles . e pr nc pal exports a I mp orts . G a ski c x - i and ski s o t ns , h des sheep n , almonds , gum ,

ai i i ai a i gr n ( nclud ng m ze , b rley , l nseed , eggs ,

i ar s k a s fi s . o ls , c pets , bra swor , wool, d tes , orange , g i S ta tis t c s . T he annual statistics in round figures of Europe an trade are as follows

P T XP . iM OR S . E ORT S France Great Britain Germany

T he s are — a a a Dar cl Baida port C sabl nc ( ),

a a E l Amish a a E l edid L r che ( ), M z gan ( Dj ), E s S ueimk a Ribatd Fatih S afii Mogador ( ), R bat ( ),

As e 52a Ta i Tan ah T a ( fi), Salle ( ), ng er ( j ), and etu n tw (Tctc cm). I twill be convenient to t ak e cogniza nce of them by s uppos ing that we h ave embark ed in London on one of the well - appointed s teamers of T he

a a i a a k C a Roy l M l Ste m P c et omp ny , the only E nglis h Company that runs a regular p as senger

e i i f ai s rv ce to th s country , and ollow the M l

S te ame rs . itine rary .

to look at the up p e r storie s be fore we discove r anything

m r indi at - l o e c i of lif han h . ain M is ve e t a p e e p o e C ap t .

w ith us and as w e o in sin le fil e am sudde n aware of White , g g I ly " s r n lan a n m n li h t o g gu ge be hi d me in un istak e able E g s . S ome w orkme n white washing above hav e sp lashe d him libe rall y and sp oile d the e ffe c t of his gold lace d uniform l L anguage . Soon we reach a flat c ommon on which a lot of the ’ Su tan s so die rs are e nc am ed and ic u es ue rufi ans l l p , p t r q the y are too ! The onl y trac e s of uniform are the ir oint Fe s has ust dde n on and c omes ac k p ed z cap . I . j ri b

with the ne ws that the are e in aid the firs time y b g p ; t ,

' ' he said tha he s known that ha e n to his M a e st s , t p p j y orc es F .

W e o in o the rison e ntranc e whic h is c lose the g t p , by

T re asur No mone the re re nch tak e n all sa s m y y , F , y y

donk e b o and e ta lim se of what the ife is i e and y y). g g p l l k , visit some shop s in the main stree t; b u t do not b uy any

thin for ric e s are a wa s hi he r whe n the n lishste ame r g, p l y g E g

is in and w e sha l ha e le nt of c hanc e s late r on. , l v p y later has ustr turne d from C uta and Te tuan ( ) 1 . j e e ,

in h ne s e r W e two adies fee l and we are await g t e xt te am . l " now uite anc ient inha i ants and the e o e he re ha e q b t . p p l v

n e li h f l kin W e made u a art to ride to b e e d g t ul y d. p p y

S rte l the othe r da and had a lorious time . C ap e p a y, g I

u f f i re horse hav e gotq ite ond o my l ttle g y .

0 O O

Last Thursda y we we ntto inspe c t the M arke t Sok whic h is a ne v e r failin sourc e of inte re st alwa s full of g , y " " C omin inc ide nt and p ic tures que obje c ts for a snap . g h m li hi to our ri h C ar e r home we saw a snake c harme r u a tte , , p l ll g t and u rging our horse s up the c obb led slope w e c au ght him

h off is tri ks H e la ed atthe top and got him to s ow h c . p y th n s out of his aske t with re e d i e and all e s ak e b a p p , throughhis p erformance he had two assistants s trumming a p altry two-stringed guitar and tapp ing a h hin h i b ut kn w drum. c anno de sc ri e all t e s e d d I t b t g . I o " that he gave me the cree p s by showing me his nasty mou h and e l ow ee h and e in one of the re tile s ite t y l t t , l tt g p b his on ue The steame r is in now and t g ! , we o on oar - i h I fee uite sorr to leave the g b d to n g t . l q y " p le asant hote l and the town whichhas so grown on me . This a te rnoon af e unch ook an affe c iona e fare we l f . t r l , I t t t l of the funny old man who has ofte n come into the i H e is a Cec l garde n to p la y and sing and danc e to us . ue e r old fe l ow whose dre ss is a a c hw ork u il made q l , p t q t himse lf and his s rummin and os urin and shufflin by , t g p t g g

and sin in ar m s usin hear tha he rofesse s in g g e o t am g. I t p " youthto hav e be e n a re gular Lothario : he is hide ous e nou hfor an hin ha e ou h o s of re hin s g yt g. I v b g t l t p tty t g , and e r c he a to v y p o. The c e ntre of Tangie r”is the Gre at M arke t Plac e or S k Al h m e re oth hose eadin to o . l t e s re e s e e h t t t , b t l g , the sea c oast and those to the su ur s inland the on b b , ly e x c ep tion be ing the route to Te tuan which starts al ong the e ac h b .

“ T his S ok is sim and i e ral a human ka e idosc o e p ly l t ly l p .

't l For a istand desc rip tion of music al instruments se e p age 7 1 . e illustrati n a e 1 8 t Se o g 0 . All the Moors 0 the re se m l the re nc h in the ir accounts of t , y b e F the ir irre sis ti ilit and c n u b y o q éte s . A p l an of T an ie r is give n in the free bookle t of the Royal M ail C om an and the gzuro e an ma lu n e b oldl into an of the s tre e ts . p y , p y p y y H e c an e asil find his wa ac to he ach e e n iffor a shor twhil e he y y b k t , v l h n " ose is be ari gs . abounding in the“ study of human inte re st and neve r the

same . H e re are the c itize ns sta e me n c lad in white A W ord , t ly ro es c h k b owl with i ure s ue an i ee c d d r e ars . b , y j p t q ( ty) b gg Peasants of Andje ra and Riff mountainee rs stalk by w ith dark d e a ahs and uns T ra e l s ained wa fare rs j ll b g . v t y from the raa and me n from S us os e ros e rous D . j tl p p

me rc han s from Fe z and M arrake sh whils hro h the t , t t ug mids t of them all c irc ulate the ne gro wate r-c arrie rs with the ir dou ful drink s ata far hin a c u rin in he ir e lls bt t g p , g g t b and shou in for usto And his stran e med e of foo t g c m. t g l y t p asse nge rs is still more varied by mounted way fare rs on all sorts of beasts from the we ll - groomed horse to the frowsy n do ke y . T hese extracts will furnish some idea of how the unassuming traveller may enjoy a stay in i And it is a Tang er . a m rvel to many that

i af is the town s comparatively neglected . S ety

a are e l o and bsolute , there r a ly excellent h tels, the climate is s ubject to none of thos e fluctuations which are sometimes so trying on the M e dite r

rane an as . T i of and co t here s plenty novelty,

i e I t is are pr ces ar moderate . true there no

a ia i s i c rr ge dr ves ; but hor es can be h red , and r i there a e many possibilities of pleasant excurs on s .

Gi a is f i and br ltar but three to our hours d stant , Alge c e iras (where by the way is a large hotel with cha rming ga rdens) is a lwa ys available for those is i who w h to go on to Spa n .

1 80

I know th at it is the fashion amongst the more " T is adventurous spirits to belittle the our t , and to mak e invidious reference to wh at c an be s een of Morocco by a voy age down the coast or a st ay “ i T i i n ang er or Moga dor . But such bel ttlement

s i s hould only apply to the gnoramu who , on the

f s s as i e o strength thereo , po e hav ng b c me an it h a i f and author y on t e subject . I h ve sa d be ore , " e a it i e i if I rep t now , that a Round tr p , esp c ally supplemented by a stay at one or both of the a i i a i pl ces named , w ll g ve a ch nce to the sens ble tourist of acquiring some re ally first hand acquaint

i E if I f a of ance w th astern l e . taste the coast gives a desire to do a little inland travel (the real thing after all) T angier or M ogador are the prope r

s s f place to tart rom .

LARAC H E .

a f T i a s ea May be re ched rom ang er by l nd or . T he land route runs from the S ok gate in

i i of C a S ar e l a s the i of T angie r the d rect on pe p t , p t ru ns T ahadart and s Ri s H if and acro s the ver . ash E l - Ak ouas to the closed port of Arzila (2 7 miles

Mo ad “ " g or is rap idly b ec oming the hub of the South M oroc can tas T an or i s of the orthe rn T he ne w H ote l —the o al -is N . R y ood an ood hotels are notcommo h coa of ar g , g n on t e st Barb y . f T n i se e T rom a g er , page hence by a fairly

v a of 2 i a an le el ro d 5 m les to Lar che, oleander grove ab out h alf w ay affording an agreea ble i a i i i i i halt ng pl ce am dst deal p cn c surround ngs . T he more usual course is to tak e the Roy al

i a isk a f i Ma l ste mer, and r the ch nce o hav ng to wait for the swell on the Bar to go down

S te ame r. sufficiently to allow of communication between h n h Th t e land a d t e vessel . e coast the whole way down con sists of low bare cliffs intersected

i a f i i s a w th s nd dunes , and r nged w th h llow waters on which the Atlantic rollers produce a dangerous

f T he ff is of a i n sur . e ect one desol t on , a d the tracts of l and visible from the sea are in point of

fa a f i is i of ct the le st ert le d tr cts the country .

T his dreary coast - line is doubtless a fertile c au se " of i a i i o s the convent on l mpress on f de ert , e specially when the eye s that gaze upon it a re accustomed to the white cliffs and green down s of

Albion .

’ After five or six hours steaming from T angier the steamer halts at the opening of a b ay with a sandy coast to the North and a rocky bluff to the

i L oukkos s an South . H ere the R ver find outlet

e a and is a a “ E l to the s , here perched L r che (

i i s sa of fa Ara ch the s te , ome y, the bled

but the olive plant ations mentioned by the older w i k e f a r ters have shrun wo ully, lthough the rich

ia ai is s i ai i its alluv l pl n t ll there aw t ng proper use . T here is a pretty legend a bout the s aving of the city from an inundation of the se a by L alla

M annanah s s i is a i i , who e hr ne loc ted n a v llage a i wa of i l ttle y out the town. T h s l ady is the

ai of Ci of a and is Patron S nt the ty L rache , much e in a i i rever d the Gh rb , the Prov nce wh ch contains

T i a ang er and Lar che . Larache is a good starting point for a ride to

1 . Fez, see page 58

RABAT , S AL L E E , AND S H E L LAH .

T he two towns of Rabat and Sallee as viewe d from the se a pres ent the appearance of one ; but

in a i a s i i they are re l ty b olutely separate c t es , * i i in i i in i and in s i . d st nct bu ld ng, h story , ent ment ° ' " ° " 1a e 2 . 6 6 . 5 a Salle (34 7 N 4 W ) ( , the Sal i of s is i Colon a the Roman ), cons derably the older , Rabat owing its origin (se e page 1 29 ) to Yakoob

A fac t instance d in history by the bombardme nt of Sallee b the re nc h in te t whe n the inha itants of a at not onl o e the F s , b R b y b y ’ admiral s orde rs to re frain from takin p art in the fightm b ute ve n took c are thatall c itize ns of S allee shou d b e s e ntacross the nu Ragre g “ " l i A a 2 . to the ir own grue l ng. lso se e p ge 2 4 e l a at f f M nsur the end o the twel th century, about ” the time when King John of “ Magna C harta f i i hi i in E ame was beg nn ng s re gn ngland . The thoroughfares of Sallee compare very nu f a i of a and in avour bly w th those R bat , are bad

o i i . Of six are c nd t on gates there are , and there two Kasbah (Government quarter) the old and The f i f e the new . ormer (dat ng rom the s venteenth century) faces the Bar ; the latter (on the south west) was built in the eighte enth century under Pi i f A e 1 0 the lal e . fine stone aqu duct ( ‘ Shere s miles long) supplies the city with water from I I i h a i f smir . ns de t e town the queduct s le t ope n so as to en able the water (running in an open stone gutter about one foot wide and two deep) to

for i s &c . The is be used wash ng clothe , old port

a nd k for th i a now dry, the doc s e old p r te vessels are i of i a a s i gone , but the memor es p r te d ys t ll i and i i l nger , the l ghters wh ch convey the cargo

’ from the ships are manned by the Rovers descendants who claim the hereditary title of “ i ” sa lor .

T he i a i a s a of i i s nh b t nt bo st ar stocrat c de cent, the claim being s pe cially emphasized by those

n f f 1 i e in . m spru g rom Moors ex l d rom Spain 6 1 0 a . When we cross by the ferry to the South side B T RA A . of the Bou Re greg we find ourselves in the Royal i f t l h C o a a Rib al c Falti C a of Vi r . ty R b t ( , mp cto y) H ere there is a double enccinto the inner of which

has s a and T wo even g tes , the outer three . p alaces are loc ated in the s pace be tween the T h i f walls . e ch e mos que is situated in the

i a k and is a Sl pper M r et , there very good specimen of later Moorish work in the Kasbah Mosque (built 1 7 30 T he only other

' mosques worth mentioning are those of Mulai lexmrr znd.

' i n in ooak ah and Sule ma the S , one on the road to

She llah s a a T he a clo e to the P l ce gate . P tron

ai of i i i L iab u ri has i S nt the c ty , S d , spec al charge of H a and i is the rbour Bar , when t troublesome

i i A i a s an he s much petit oned . s th s h ppen on

da in a it average one y three throughout the ye r , will be seen th at this cult is in no d anger of going

f f s i out o a h on . T he troubles in connection with the Bar are

' e and s i i s a a i for very r al , po l the c ty ttr ct ons the

is . T is is a i for it is a a tour t h p ty , h ndsome town , and the surroundings both of Rabat a nd Sallee

s i T he i a i is a and mo t ch arm ng. s tu t on he lthy,

the touto msemble would render it a most desirable

in i i for “ i i spot wh ch to w nter , but the D sturb ng

E lement of the Ba r.

the Beni Marin Sultans (fourteenth and fifteenth

e i D . i i c ntur e s A. ) who rebu lt t and made it their

ia a a s of i i bur l pl ce , so th t mo t the bu ld ngs now isi i v ble are due to that per od ; all are deserted .

C AS ABLANC A.

T he Spanish name of the town means “ White

H it i i a a itis s ouse , and s by th s n me th t u ually

k w in The o is a is Dar e l no n Europe . M or h n me

i a nd i . I t s a Ba d , a means the same th ng t nds upon

i fAni i of i s the s te o a, a c ty whose glor es and de truo i 1 Af i n t on by the Portuguese, 468, Leo r ca us

i i i I s in i s wr tes w th sympathet c pen . t wa ru n it i i a the when he saw , and so cont nued t ll bout of i i close the e ghteenth century, when Mula

- i Mohammed began to te erect its bu ldings .

’ T ow n Mulai Ab d- e r- Rahman continued his grandfather s

k i C as it i s . wor , unt l asablanca, now ex st , arose

I t is i f a s i the bus est o the co st town , be ng the chief outlet for a great maize and wool growing

hinterland .

W e anc hor off the or in the e arl mornin the p t y g, s te ame r ly ing some what far ou t and within hailing distanc e of a Fre nch man-oi-war ; off c ome the

hea M rish i he rs an in on of he mwe o ashore . vy oo l g t , d e t g A T AN G I E R S C E N E .

( see p age 7 7 7 )

M AZAGAN .

H ere again the usual name is the E form ; and the appropriateness of the appellation is brought home to everyone

' in it se a for n s fr nearl am s g by , he la d under the y y

is k s i unm ta eably Portuguese battlement , dat ng

f i The rom the early s xteenth century . Moors i l i st ll ca l t Djedida (The N ew). T is i k a in fa here noth ng remar ble here, ct the

is f r i The town below the average o nterest . Jews of M azagan seem to be prosperous and live in more s tyle and with a better attempt at refinement in f f s . I n a o than other coast town ct , one the most elaborately decorated jewish houses I have i he seen n Morocco I w as shown over here . T

as of s i s t te, cour e, was flor d ; but, though the hou e

w as is and a f i E a Moor h , m ny o the fitt ngs urope n , the whole effect was as unmistak eably Jewish as

s as i e of a were the hand ome, fl h ng ey d women mple i i proport ons who dwelt there n .

S AFFI .

i Asfi it is e i e T he Moorish n ame s , and b l ev d i i i s C ontra e that the area enclosed within ts or g nal wall e s in te d Are a . w as much contracted by the Portugu e the f I ts sixteenth century for the purpose s of de ence .

i f and s a ia i present wall s lo ty sub t nt l , w th three I t e i gates . enjoy d much prosper ty under the Portuguese (who evacuated it in 1 54 1 ) and for

T is s nearly a century later . h port u ed to be the

a i for ak s is i l nd ng place Marr e h , and , ndeed , the natural place for that purpose the road is shorter and more level than the routes from Mogador and

Mazagan . — — T he town affords viewed from the se a the

s i s n and mo t p cture que appeara ce , to watch the s u n rise over the town is to witness a scene of

a of s are the rarest beauty . M ny the house fine s i s of a s a si s pec men he vy cool Portugue e m n on , although most shamefully unk empt . I n the neighbourhood lie many Kubbas (shrines) and i a of i i a ] s i a the v ll ge S d W ste , ne tl ng mong the

i s i a s in se e h ll to the South , spec ally bound them ( i Frontisp ece).

T he of a b in Ab d- A a old Palace Muh mmed ll h ,

a o s perched b ve the town , has ome fine courts and i f arch tectural eatures .

Portuguese heraldic devices are still said to be * i i its i f a a and i i d scern ble over ch e g tew y , the bu ld ng

‘ " Acc ordin to Dr. eared Moroc c o and the Moors u li ed g L . , p b sh 1 B7 G i if in T he i f a i s beaut ul dec ay . ru ns o pr ncely

a si i ai i i s f s s i m n on w th p nted ce l ng , re coe , r chly

a f a s and a s ma s il c rved door r me , m rble column y t l b e se e n in the Rabat (a s uburb just outside the T i ai a . s s i a i i a m n g te) h traggl ng qu rter , or g n lly

i a a a of s and s is bu lt to h rbour b nd rebel robber , Ra b a t. a s a s a s now used by merch nt tore hous e . A heavy s urf renders a ccess difficult ; but a

a of i s is s i good de l bus ne s t ll done , though the anchorage is da nge rou s in a fresh south - we st

A a is i wind . French comp ny try ng the ex

riment of a sk a i a s i p e eleton qu y , w th re ult wh ch k is yet to s ee . of s i r s i i s of S afii Potte ry. One the mo t nte e t ng product on

i i h is a fa mm the s the pottery , wh c m nu ctured

B - See a e northern gate ( ab E s Shaba). ( p g

M OGADOR .

C alled by the Moors E s S oue ira (the L ittle i I s a i a P cture), could never under t nd why , unt l on

i in m I had certa n day June so e years ago. been

’ staying at a Moor s house a little w ay up country i i I and w a s return ng to the c ty . reached the heights which overlook the s and dunes soon after

“ ” s is and I saw i . T he sk unr e, then the P cture y

The is a and c i town cle n healthy , ex ellent fish ng

S p ort. ma had and a of f - s i y be , abund nce owl hoot ng. T here are plenty of little excurs ion s to be made

in i and it is a the ne ghbourhood , an e sy m atter to

a i a s in A a f s i s org n ze bo r hunt the rg n ore t , wh l t the f i 1 h a rd sa nds are idea l or a morn ng ga 10p . T here " is a “ T he a i is H ote l . now good hotel , Roy l , to wh ch attached a curio store in which purchas ers c an

u n i A be s ure of buying gen i e art cles . ltogether Mogador should a ppeal to the E nglis h tourist who wants s omething a little less h ackneyed than a re

mos t E uropea n watering places . From Mogador or M azagan the traveller up

s ta and f i of ie of country mu t s rt , , rom the po nt v w

’ convenience in getting together one s require

s f is be f . ment , the ormer to pre erred

P E V I I comm a C H A T R . ( )

s Close d Port .

f s is i s i s i a O the e there l ttle to be a d , ee ng th t i h most of them are inaccess ble to E uropean s . T e only two exceptions of any importance are T etuan and A i a of i a fe w a i a are rz l , wh ch p rt cul rs here

AZ I M U R , i . T he i of A i a s n serted l ttle town z mur, hort

i a f an i of is i r de aw y rom Mazag , has too l ttle d t no tion about it to render it worth a sep arate

i i a i i f i descr pt on , lthough the r de th ther orms qu te i a pleasant little excurs on .

T E T UAN .

T etuan is e asily reached from T angier by a

u i s i a s s ro te wh ch , tart ng along the sea be ch , cro se the mountains by a pass over the Ait s l Koda H i and T a ai ll , then debouches on to the etu n Pl n

a an i of si a of p st ol ve grove , the scene the gn ture

a of 1 0 i ai is ffi the tre ty 86 w th Sp n . One day su cient for a well mounted horseman ; but for those who do not c a re to s pend eight hours in . the

a a can f r i in s s ddle , halt be made o the n ght tent

i si - p tched out de a Fondak half w ay.

The a s i s Place o Waters n me pec fie f , and the strea ms which descend from the mountains at the

a k of if i and ff b c the town just y the t tle , a ord ample i i i f r a d rr gat on o the g rdens an orange groves . M - artil . The se a p ort (c alled Martil) lies abou t seven

il off a nd sis s of a a s m es , con t ro d tead open to the

‘ L e v ante rs and f i s k f there ore nsecure . Nel on too

s s f on tore here be ore the battle of Aboukir .

T a is a i k and etu n pretty l ttle town , well ept ,

a i i T is one m gn ficently s tuated . here fine and ne a r it are congregated the hou ses built by the And alus ian Moors expelled from Spain in the

a s T re i n e rly eventeenth century . hey a bu lt rou d

s i fine court s urrounded w th arcades .

T he houses in the Kitan (the bes t residential quarter) are well built if T he Lions a re (1 ) the graveyard of the Refugees

f ai i H is a - T s and rom Sp n w th p no Moresque omb ,

2 its i T he s i s ( ) sl pper m art . l pper made here are

a of i k and a s ake excellent , lthough th c er co r er m

a f k T h i i i th n those o M a rra esh . e t le ndustry s important ; but the tiles are inferior to those of

The i i i T e tuan D a a is a Fez . d st nct ve jell b h m de

f h oota s o s tuff striped black and w hite . T e f h (a k ind of towel) made here are in much request with

i s u se as ki and country g rl , who one s rt another i as bod ce .

i Winds thatb low b e twee n De ce mb e r and Ap r l.

ARZ I LA.

A k a of A a i mar et town on the co st the tl nt c ,

- f T i I tw as s twenty seven miles rom ang er . fir t a Phoenician s ettlement (Zilis) and then a town of

a f a i its L a i a i i ia . Rom n ound t on , t n n me be ng Z l I n later days itwas fortified by the Portuguese

s s a s a a l s s i ai i who e m ll qu re w l t ll cont n the c ty , and whose armorial bearings may (though half

i a i a a a . T he obl ter ted), st ll be tr ced on the l ndg te

is in e i its a is town now wretch d repa r , h rbour i T h i a i a s lted up and its trade gone . e nh b t nts number about mostly Jews .

T he s i is flat i urround ng country generally , w th i i f i i ed sl ght undulat on s ; the soil is ert le and cult vat .

A a i i i s a s i in a r meg l th c c rcle t nd eleven m les l nd , nea

’ " a i la a M z T he a i l se v l ge c lled ora . n t ves ca l the ” s tones by the n ame of “ T he Pe g (E l Utad) from the shape of the largest stone (ab out 1 5 feet high an a ik d sh ped l e a tent p e g).

A T E CH P R VI I I .

s Sa c re d Citie .

S ite s T here are certain localitie s in which have retained through ce nturies veneration . Several of the m are connected * wi I is f of E th dr the ounder the mpire .

W AL I I L (or Z a rhoun. )

l One of these is W alilin where I dris first found Z arho un . a n abiding refuge from the Abbas side K ale e p hahs (se e page The town is now more commonly known as Za rhoun and nestles charmingly on

’ a i si s i in I is s da b re h ll de , wh ch , dr y, were covered i f w th ores ts . So sa cred is the city th at it has e s cape d

s a i in i i t c i if and de ecr t on the cont nual n erne ne str e, is still untrodden by any C hris tiani or Jew ! E ven or J e w . a is r a i converts to Mohammed n m a e not dm tted, so (justly) s uspicious are the Muslims of these

The a i a re f pros elytes . p rt cula rs given there ore but details gathere d from the Mooris h friends of i Europea n enqu rers .

T are a s of i —Bab e l H a a here five g te , one wh ch j r — gives access to a street ending in a colonn a de

i si enc rcled S ok (mark et place). On the south de

I t is s aid thatsome hundre ds of Zaouiya (shrine s) in M oroc c o he ar his name for le e nds te ll that I dri I w as fond of uildin mos ue s ; g s . b g q where ve r he w e nt. ' os e d o b e a tion of th oman Volu ilis 1 S up p t c orrup e R b . t T he c l aim of Jac kson to have visited the c ity in 1 801 ap p e ars to b e d t e s au oritie oub ed b y the b t th s .

The “ ff i of i are a i o er ngs the p ous m ny and r ch , and a re divided weekly a mong the chief de sc e n T h i i i dants of the Saint . e d str bution s ma de by

k a of Zoui a i a iff the Mo ddem the y , who s not Sher

s fa i of E r~ R ami in i but belong to the m ly , wh ch the office is hereditary . T he inhabitants of the city are immune from tax - a i and i i a s i i s an ff p y ng m l t ry erv ce, wh l t y o ender

’ who can mak e his w ay into it is s afe from his

if it a i f. enemy , even be the Sult n h msel

W AZZAN .

T he C i of a a The H ouse o R e u e ty W zz n ( f f g ,

’ —“ Dar D manah i s in a a i if it s l e l nd wh ch , doe " i i k and at as not flow w th m l honey , le t abounds

nd i s I t is i in s prings a ol ve wood . bu lt upon a

i si a of H and sis s h ll de (th t the Bou alal), con t m a inly of a mos t pictures que pile of tiled and * a a s a i s i a s th tched g ble , m d t wh ch the ( lmo t univers al els ewhere) fiat- roofed buildings with

i e i s nd dazzling wh tewas h ar rare . Shr ne dome a

are i a f a as is i mosque towers ord n ry e tures , befitt ng

Bud e tt M e a in s tates tha t old rints show his form of Mr . g k p t e e n ls o harac te ristic of Old T an i building to have b a c g er . in isi of so sacred a spot , and the exqu te structure

' s ome of them is the city s only claim to archi i i te c tural d stinct on .

f a 1 6 i of Old S ite . Be ore the ye r 7 5, the s te the present i mud the city was only occup e d by huts, and ” Sheriffs (the heads of the sect of Mulai T a yyib) inhabited E zagge n (or “ Azige n now a hea p of

i L e o Af i a s i s ruin s oppos te Wa zz an . r c nu ment on the latter town observing they h ave a privilege

a e a i k i of Fez i k i gr nt d by the nc ent ngs to dr n w ne , which is otherwise forbidden by the law of

Mohammed . Al though much more modern than the s hrine of A I is I I . at s of a os dr Fez , the Mo que bd llah Shareef (the N oble S lave of God) contains some i i T i iff was adm rable arch tecture . h s Sher the f of i s of a in 1 2 and ounder the glor e Wazz n 7 7 , his tomb is one of the most venerated s hrines in i i i in . H s s s a a the country hr ne , a l rge squ re hall, i i f T h the m ddle of wh ch stands the tomb itsel . e floor is of coloure d m a rbles and the roof con sists of a a s a i in i i f i k r be que wood c rv ng h gh rel e , p c ed

The he riffs of S W azzan are some of the mos timp ortantin Moroc c o, c e rtainl in orthMoroc c o For an acc ou ntof the se familie s of S aints y N . and the ir he reditar owe rs of Bara ah le ss in s e e a e 1 02 . T he y k (b g), p g y " ha e e e n ranted re nc h Prote c tion a re s ult artl of the ir ro v b g , p y p ie inter s i l h t l l e ts n A ge ria . T e y ha ve azib s (home s ea ds ) a over ErOflflh otoc c o and inde ed are the most imp ortant landed p rop rie tors in thatsec tion of the countr y . i s and i i T he out w th colour g ld ng. walls are

i a ai i a o i t led to cert n he ght , b ve wh ch there are inscribed verses from the Koran on a whitewashed

ground .

T he e of i - stre ts the c ty are steep and narrow,

are f k a a i A and there ore ept comp r t vely clean . t

o i a k a i is k the b ttom end l es the m r et pl ce , wh ch ept f i s a f i a rly bu y , W zzan orm ng the mart for the

I ndu s try . i i is i s its i is ne ghbour ng d tr ct , although ndustry pretty well confined to the making of Djellabahs (se e page T he mark et days are Wednesday

and T a hursd y .

T he a s is i a a w ter upply good , the cl m te he lthy, and in the neighbourhood cluster quite a number

of i i i s d The p cturesque l ttle v llage an h amlets . population is reckoned at about T he journey to Wazzan from Fez (you leave by

o a a k a 2 0 is a the S gm g te) ta es bout hours , the d t nce ’ i s 60 i Af i a be ng ome m les . ter e ght hours tr vel

a i a of s and through undul t ng country , cle red tree i a i i well cult vated , you re ch the R ver Sebou , wh ch

is crossed at the ford of the S aturday market . T hence two hours more are required to reach the

A i f M azari a i She riffi an z b o y , belong ng to the i f T i a i fam ly o Wazzan . hence to the dest n t on , the track runs through a series of properties i i e of i i f k nhab t d by a race hardy and ndustr ous ol , a a and who terr ce every v lley , on the terraces

v - k s of grow hea y , well ept crop corn and groves of walnut trees . T he C astle itself is a l arge double towere d pile of n a i T h sto e on h ll top . e enceinte cons ists of

i a a s in o i i T h h gh crenell ted w ll , g od cond t on . e i i a a s are f a and k . pr nc pal p rtment lo ty , cle n well ept

T he is a f i i in his Ruler eudal lord , comb n ng G d s G an . per on , eneral , overnor , Judge H e is ’ ’ k The N Glou wi andis a f i nown as , power ul h ghland

i f s s asis f T fil lt ch e who e rule extend to the o o a a ,+

f i a him i s the cradle o the rul ng dyn sty . Upon l e the respon sibility of preventing or smoothing over any friction between his dependents and the

- A i f i French on the South West lger an ront er . T he castle courtyards are always full ; farmers

i i in is i s ss s d f br ng ng prov on , me enger to an rom

E s i i s i i a s and s i k the a tern d str ct , l t g nt , uppl ants eep f the place in a constant state o bustle . T he fortres s is provisioned for a considerable

i a is s 00 and t me, the permanent g rr on number 5 ,

s a a of a ms a i i contain a l rge mount r , mmun t on ,

s s &c . horse , mule ,

i a e 0 . Se e illustraton on op pos ite p ge . 1 See p ag 2 5 W A T G L O U I C S LE . see p age 203

i W ad i Ziz f br dge over the (R ver) , orm the sole i i i f i f * Th rema n ng rel cs o ts ormer greatness . e

a has and it i s are kn very n me departed , s ru n own

as i a A i the R o a t Med n t oul m ra ( y l Ciy). Yet still on the two great Moslem feasts the “ Aid " e l Kebir T(greator the sheep feast) and the “ Aid e s " Saghir (the minor feast) the people meet to pray at ’ lace o ra r the M salla (P fp ye ) near the old mosque .

OUJDA.

° ' ’ " " - ° 3 4 4 0 5 4 N . l 4 7 3 0 W .

T his little frontier town is only of interest on account of its neighbourhood to the Algerian

i T he i- f in f Front er (French). ant French eel g o s is a a i si is i i the Moor n tur lly nten fied by th prox m ty, and the a uthorities have forbidden the entrance of

i A a ia i e any wheeled veh cles . Sp n rd who v olat d this restriction and drove a cart of goods into the

had his s s was town ware confi cated , and only restored his hors e and cart on the conditions of i i and a mmed ate departure , an eng gement not to ff repeat the o enc e . °1 T he c ivil w ars unde r the re ign of the Be ni M arin dynas ty are re s ons i le vide re mar s on a e 1 2. p b , k p g 3 “ " f T he Aid e l K e bir is also know n as Aid e l Azha (or md Orly Zuha the fea st of s ac ri c e and ta e s la c e on the 1 0th da 0 Du] ) fi , k p y H adjah(the 1 2thand las tmonth T h id hi l o );n wn as “ Aid e l Bitor and is the e A e s S ag r is a s o . - t h e 8 Bre a k Fastfe as tatthe e nd of Ramadan (the 9 hmont ) see p ag 9 . T he town had a certain amount of p rosperity be fore the revolt of El Roghi destroye d the se curity of the C a ravan route be tween T az a and

a ffi a e s of Fez , and now that th t ru n (whose d ed rapine and cruelty were indescribable) has be e n

a ki s i ma . c ptured and lled , some pro per ty y return

I t is i e of i s tuat d on the slope a h ll , has an f i abundant water supply and produces much ru t . I ts walls are tottering and it is of no importance i I i i k i strateg cally . ts nhab tants eep up a l ttle s i i ugar smuggl ng across the Algerian Front er, which will doubtless lea d some day to a R e c tifi cation of the Frontier at present ending at i S di Zaher .

C H A T X P ER .

Some South Tow ns Atlas . * ms hloh t Ta a Amzmiz and Goun a fi. , , d

’ T hree to four hours ride from Marrak esh tak e s ' us to the town of T amshlohatf situated on the

a k s of i he r haia and s i in b n the r ver S g , ne tl ng

'i The route ta e n was M arra es h to T amshlohat the nc e to Amzmiz k k , then ac ros s to Age rgour, the nc e to Agadir e l Bour and the nc e to

Goundafi . f Se e p age roz o of i e ee s T he n ct d loa lne lfi gr ves ol v tr . walls are egle e , g for e i sa a it ee of , b ng cros nct , has no n d them ; the house s are constructed of red brick s made in the i f i i Th ne ghbourhood and urn she d w th flatroofs . e country hous e of the Sheriff nestles in gardens

i a - i w th t ll grow ng cypress trees .

Af a fu i of six o n ter rther r de hours , ver cou try

flat at s and at ai i a fe w i we fir t, l er cont n ng h lls ,

Amzmiz * a isi an i of reach , the ro d r ng to alt tude

f e in s i i c e t , the uccess ve gradat ons chara te ristic f f o the Atl as ormation . T he little town con sists of a cluster of inferior

s s i of tab b ia and hou e , on uneven ground , bu lt , i in E i conta ned a rectangular wall . veryth ng s e s r i s e m old and c umbl ng except the mo que ,

i i A - as wh ch s new . t the north e tern corner huddle

f i — i The a heap o ru ns the old house of the Ka d . pres ent ruler has loc ated his house in an u np re

i ns f i a i si i l tent o ort fic t on out de the c ty , and c ose

‘ T he re is e v e ry leasant route to Amzmiz from the C oas tv ia Me s kalin m o or h l a lo e l ride fi v e hours fro ad . Afte r lea in t e latter ac e ( g ) v g p , v y ’ throu gh hilly c ountry brings the trave lle r to the Kai d s house at ' M too i w hic h is on a loft e mine nc e and c ommands s ome c harmin g , y ; mas E n t in c e s The chief a ra route ou a ss s me in e re s t a . p no . y p o g v ' " o i “ f m us for his of the M to g c lan is a p owe r in the land, and is a o li e ral hos italit T he n ste e rin a c ours e aralle l ith the Atlas b p y . , g p W r ange you a rrive in four more day s at I mmintannou t p re ttily situa te d on a ri e r T he nce throu h a fine oli e ro e to E lhaira whe re the v . g v g v , fl ll t di whic h c ou ntr is p e rfe c tl at. Afte r that you ma e a ca a M zou , y y k ' c ontains an oli e rov e w he re is an ide al s ot for c am and an v , p p ” l r e d f g’e e wh six or e ce l e nt e o s ose mu tton is er ood. x b p , v y g ’ s e n hours rid ll rin ou o zmi e v e wi b g y t Am z.

I mposingly situate d in a valley with the river

’ " N s s its a i i i fi ju t under w lls , the bu ld ng s sur i a i and f rounded w th me n dwell ngs , orms by no mean s a luxurious habitation ; the passages are

a k and and s a . bl c deep , the court n rrow T his Kaid is an important chieftain and master of the mountain ' region between Glouwi and ’ M tou i and is i of a s g , he qu te one the person ge of is i i f i South Morocco , although d t nctly n er or

’ ii‘ he i i f to The N Glouw . T pos t on o the latter res embles that of T he Douglas in me die val Scotch history ; for not only has he the powe r of

i a at his k is e of hs own cl n bac , but he the h ad

I is a whole confederation of s maller chiefs . t largely due to his powerful support that Mul ai fi i i i in H a d s now re gn ng Fez .

Se e p age 204 . CH APT E R I X.

’“ ’ ’ Alc azar (El K sar e l K b ir).

60 mil e s from T a ngie r, 20 mil e s from L a ra c he .

a e rea Castle Although the n me m ans the g fi ,

i i a and i f a the town s w thout wall , v ewed rom

i ha s a i s a n i its d stance , p cture que ppeara ce, w th roof tops and its mos que min arets peering over a

T h K i ri Ka is e ri a h s etting of trees and gardens . e a se yah y (the B azaar or mark et quarter) forms its be s t feature : it is held on Sundays and well of i it are attended . Parts the streets compos ng a i aff i an covered with palmetto m tt ng, ord ng Th i a in k a a . e agree ble sh de c ty bounds stor s , S tork s . i f are the sacred b rds o Morocco , who supposed to b e Su ltans in disguise t T he only fine building is i h f ai G li of the Zouw a o Mul Bu ha b, one the i a at i of patron saints . S tu ted the junct on

T i T uan a a the routes to ang er, et , Fez, W zz n ,

M i and a it is isi i e q u nez , L rache , surpr ng that t should not be a place of greater importance and pretensions . TE tow n oc c up ie s the S ite 3 the Roman 01) idu ni N ovum and ” is ac tual] uiltto a lar e e te ntof oman dr s tones su es tin b x R , gg g a p ossib i ity of finding g) te re s tin re lic s of the Latin oc c up ation (says

Dr Browne in his note on ic anus . r a . L eo ) The e is Gree k insc rip tion on a stone s e t into the M ue minare t. " " Se e H and’s M arche n if Stor where is re ttil told the . k , p y taio of ow a S ultan is p unishe d by God for his p ride by be ing changed int0 a shor;‘ Se c tion VII.

The Rov ers

and

the ir Vic tims .

H I S section will S pe ak for itself : it belongs ” a of H i t is to the Rom nce s ory , and immortalize d in the e arly chapters of " Robinson Cru soe .

i a is of e i k i of Moorish P r cy , cours , l n ed w th that

T is and— Algi ers and un , to be completely dealt — with the history of those pirate strongholds

i . s u os should be ncluded Our pre ent p rp e , how

is i i i i . ever , served w thout the r nclus on

T his section comprises

C HA PT ER — ' I M oorzshPirates andChristian S laves — II Redemption of Captives — II I The L iterature ofM oorishPiracy 2 22 to 226

2 1 7 .

CHAPTE R I .

d hris v MoorishPirate s an C tian Sla e s .

’ I twas a ou the o e l c ose of a warmsummer s da b t l v y l y. T here c ame a M oorishPirate - Ship full sail to Plymouth Bay ’ ' H e r cre w had se e n Cas tile s blac k fle e t beyondAurigny s Qu ota tion. I sle At e arlie s twi i h on the wa e s lie he av in man a t l g t v , g y " mile .

Such is the amendment re quired for the start of

' Mac aulay s heroic poe m de aling with the de stru c f he a is A a in in tion o t Sp n h rmad , order to br g it * i i f . i a into l ne w th act Flem ng, who comm nded in e i n f a the ve sse l qu st on , was o ly one o b and of similar patriotic English sailorsTof the Drak e and ki e in i i H aw ns typ , who order to s nge the K ng ’ ” i a i ski of Spa n s be rd, had placed the r ll at the

' f i i a s T disposal o the Moor sh P r te . hese latter had bee n spe cially incen se d against the Spaniards and Portuguese hy the recent expulsion of the i f i and Mor scos rom Spa n , were burning for

“ Whom H ume in his Histor of E and calls a Sc ottish ” do otk now wh . 3 d Pirate . I n y There y a oe is significanc e in the fac t “ ” that this M ooris h Rover w as commanded an lishman an by Eng , d i off thatitw as cru sing the Channe l I sla nds . d he T rue T rav el s o 7 Vi e t of Cap t. J hn Smith 2 u i b e twee n 1 593 and x6 9 p lished n 1 6 0 and uote d Dr . Brown in ! b b ’ " is introduc tion to Pe ilows e ars 3n ca t h 33 y vi y. g not the ' n r his i Q uee n s Pardo fo nformation. reve nge . T e tuan was large ly pe ople d by these

fu ee and e fie c ti e as i re g s , so v w the r vengeance that in r565 the King of Portugal sent a regular

e e i i i s i was as xp d t on aga n t them , wh ch ( usual) ' * ine fie c tiv e .

f e Do not orget , ge ntl reader, whe n you shudder

i of Ca i I i i i at the cruelt es the thol c nqu s t on , to bear in mind also the revolting cruelties of the Moorish a nd M oors . pirate s against Spanish and Portuguese c a ptives hande d ove r to them by Protestant E nglish a ai c pt ns . T he history of the matter seems to b e that until Moorish fan aticism w as outraged by the cru el expulsion of the Morisc os (with horrible b arb ari

i s a of had a t e ), the Sult ns Morocco ende voured to maint ain friendly relations a t se a with E urope an

a ar he c l i . T is sa s as t ou d f r nat ves hat to y, f y , o the ‘ p ort of S allee n the firs t to a ttain prominence in i e r s in ai i this connect on , a ly ucceeded att n ng quasi

f i . T independence o the r rule hen , when the smouldering ashes of Moorish fanaticism had

e e n fan i fla a a a i of de nt. b ned nto me , c me the ev cu t on

o s a i s a ati s the p rt held by the v r ou Europe n n on “

H e trie d to re nde r the H arbour of Martil imp assable r d The e withb loc ks of s tone broughtfrom G ena a. T r dation afre s h ne w outle tand be gan the i dep re s . ‘ t Se e the incide ntrec orded on p age s 1 84 and

h . C i r e e r i e Mrs r sp) na rat s exper enc , and te lls u s that the “ Merchantman in which she was

a wa s a f e i i e k c ptured , ( ter b ng l ghten d) ta en over

b ar of a . T he i ot the S llee l ttle vessel , however , g pretty n e arly knocked to pieces in the process

Vol . I ( I . p . The type of ves sel employed is be st understood f il a i a 2 1 T rom the lustr t ons on p ge 2 . hey are reproduc ed from the work writte n by Ge org

H o is e in a k in 1 an 1 1 st (publ h d Denm r 7 7 9 d 7 8 , in i an s i T Dan sh d German re pe ct vely). he author was Danis h Consul at T angier for many

e his k is ra and i a ki y ars, wor accu te pa nst ng, and

t r his evide nce about pirate ve s sels con empora y.

I n 1 s s ten i 7 66 , he tate that there were but p rate

ss of an si and i a i of t ve els y ze, he g ves l st hem , with the names of their captain s and the numbe r

of i . T f , the r guns and crews hey range rom a f i a of and 0 x e b e ue s r g te , 45 guns 33 men , through q of 1 6 s and 1 2 6 me n a i s of 6 s gun , to g l ote gun , * 0 and 1 00 . H a s a e 3 rowers , men e dd th t thre

es e fri ates w e re re e ll d b c ars as we ll as sail s and we re Th g p e y , ri s The r e u e s were t ical M editerrane an oats ed like b g . e q yp b “ " rigg two or th as carr e s a ils whe n run in and ree m ts , ing s uar n g, . y q ” latee n sail s w he n “ an a ind T he aliote was a urel irate ri w . g p y p g with one mas t for saihn b ut p lac ing its re lianc e on long sweep s, lin th to m l uc h esse l s continued to e nab g e m b oard ge cal ed ve sse s . S v b e b uilt as late as 1 7 50 when the cap tain of an Englis h I nsp ec tor was se t to work on one at T etuan. dime nsions z—a e e l of fe e t a readth of 20 fee t with 0 oars k 90 , b , 4 , c arria e uns 0 swi el uns and a crew of 2 0. 9 g g , 2 v g , 3 20 i i s ye ars later the numbe r rose to , the add t on b i s i “ and is e e ng mo tly gal otes , that r ally the A Fre nc h strongest fle et of any kind they had e ver Pid i hi k i e oe . n s de St Olon , wor publ sh d by the

f i XI V . a is 1 6 a command o Lou s (P r , 9 5) g ve the numbe r as a dozen ve sse ls with 1 8 to 20 guns in

i i of 200 . bad cond t on , and a crew T of e er of here were , cours , large numb s transports in earlier days : the Arab histo rians i k e ment on hundreds on the stoc s . But thes were

s s a k se a e not ve els ad pted to ee p the , they wer b ut transport galleys propelled by oars supple me nte d by a sail or two on a single mast when i f T e e s the w nd was avourable . hey were n c s ary adjuncts to the conquest and retention of Spain . ' T he f ir t is i object o all p a es r to ga n booty , not

h se c e dure . . T e to fight Moors, then , would range clo and invite the capt ain on board to show his a T i i i o p pers . h s necess tated the w thdrawal f the

’ i f and a s and sim ch e a whole bo t crew, much

lifie d i i a s s i r p the r operat ons . P s enger and sa lo s were stripped of their belongings and tak en on

i a i i the p r te vessels , pr ze crews be ng sent on

’ H ost 3 figure s are rac tic all c onfirmed in the Annual Re gis te r y’ of 1 a e 8 of C onic la whe re the tota l i en is 1 re ad for 7 7 5, p g 4 g v 5 y sailin and a oac hi g 9 p p r ng c omp le tion. ' " See Defoe s “ Ad ent f i l t v ures o Cap ta n S ing eton. oa c T he i b rd the apture . capta n was usually

e for the t n s of the i on r served Sul a , the re t pr s e rs, ik “ i men and women al e , were sold by auct on in n ai ed a the ma ner det l on p ge 85. Sometime s a little syndicate would combine to purchase a captive who se emed lik e ly to have friends to e him i i r deem , and quest ons relat ve to ran som were tizin . g the first ask ed . Large numbers professed the faith of I slam and married ; most of the women (except s uch of the less attractive whose friends could afford to p ay) were t ak en into the harems ; Miss Marsh n arrates in her adventu res th at she '

in the a a 1 6 A. D. a met , Sult n s pal ce ( 7 9 ) a d ughter of an Englishman who had become a renegade

a ie a is a and had m rr d Moor h wom n , who was

e i i i f very agr eable , but tr ed to nve gle her ellow ’ i a countrywoman nto the Sultan s h rem , never

the le ss .

The greate r number of the able - bodied men

i M e u ine z a k were sent nland to Fez, q , M rra esh and

n I n f ai I s i other tow s . the days o Mul ma l when

i a was at its i C is ia s a p r cy he ght, hr t n l ves to the number of be twee n one and two thousand work ed

i i n z T a l in hs se rv ce at Me q ui e . hom s Phe ps

D . f f (1 684 A. ) was one o the un ortuna te wretches so i s treated (there were 800 in his day). H e descr be

C H APTE R I I .

T he ransoming of these unfortunates was carried

ai C a i i s e i out m nly by thol c pr e ts , who devot d the r lives to the service of collection of alms for the

r ar i i i ms and pu pose , b ga n ng w th the Mosle ,

ia i i repatr t ng the ex les . mae I n his l a Confirma ionis &c . S anc tissi Bul t , , ” T i i i R ede m tionis C a tiv oru m r n tat s p p , Pope

n VI I I . a of 1 8th D 1 62 Urba , under d te ecember , 3 , confirms the privileges of the regular orders to

is of H T i i f n s th Order the oly r n ty, ou ded expre sly for the Re demption of Captives under the Papal * f I I I I . in 1 1 A D Bull o Pope nnocent 9 8 . . Other orders followed them and the worthy priests are

a k as i i gener lly nown Redempt on st Fathers . One of the M iss ions sent from Lisbon by the orders i m f Do s I . o the K ng Jo eph , betwee n the e rs ru and 1 8th Ma 1 6 e u t Feb ary the y, 7 5, r sc ed 2 2 3 men and 5 women from captivity which had

in s a s 1 a . lasted , ome c se , 5 ye rs

e 1 6 0 1 682 in i i Sr . Mou tte ( 7 to capt v ty) who was rescued by an order named “ Ordre de la Mercy

S e e the Pulc her L ib e llus p rinted atOlys ip p one , 1 63 3 . r H G L OU W I A M OUN T AI N E E R S o T E C L N . ( see p age 204j

C H A T I I I P ER .

Lite ra tu re of M oor ish Pira c y.

T he literature des criptive of thes e three centuries of Mooris h piracy and C hris tian sl a very is a large

and of it i s i one , much requ re to be rece ved ” ” s i i “ “ fak with su p c on . Grub Street could e a

s i of s and did it! good tory w th plenty horror ,

G i a a i s rs a i nd enu ne n rr t ve , where the pe on l ty a

i of a a are ai ai as genu neness the n rr tor pl n , cont n interpol ations fourth and fifth h a nd description s of a s isi and of s s s pl ce never v ted , cu tom never een .

’ e ok is a i i and Mou tte s bo m rred w th padd ng, ’ k i s i i T homas Fellow s boo not w thout su p c on ,

has in his e i i it although Dr . Brown , d t on , purged

f f Windus As i in o the long extract rom . pr nted

A s i s of is i it f s the dventure er e F her Unw n , orm one of the most interesting book s of adventure

a c an ss i i a i and a a i it th t po bly be m g ned , gre t p ty f i is th at it s hould be permitted to run out o pr nt . ” An E is “ L i in old ngl h News etter , pr nted the

a 1 6 2 i s “ s f a of a ye r 4 , g ve the New rom S lly s trange delivery of foure E nglis h c aptives from

a of T k s and a i s a s the Sl very the ur e , ptly llu tr te the fact that the ports held on the coast b y E uropean Powers served (till their abandonment in the 1 7 thcentury) the useful function of a W ay i i f i a I t of E scape to the v ct ms o p r cy . tells

s of f E i s i s f the tory how our ngl sh h p ( rom Rye ,

a s a Da and B rn t ple , rtmouth , were captured on their homeward voyage from L a

T he a s . of a a a Rochelle . m ster e ch merch ntm n

se t as i for a a i were de the Sult n , but m de the r esca pe and fled to the “ Spa nis h T owne (a p p arently L arache) whence the Governor shipped them to C a lais . A a i in in 1 6 p mphlet pr nted London 3 7 , under the title of “ A T rue Jou rnall of the Sally Fleet ” i i s of and is w th the proceed ng the voyage , publ hed

D a i M aster o the Admiral by john unton , M r ner, f ” called the “ L eo ard i s is of 2 p g ve a l t 3 9 men ,

and i f o s a . T is women , ch ldren rescued r m l very h brochure comprises a mos t interes ting account of

n i i s i C a s I . s a exped t on ent by K ng h rle , compo ed “ ” “ A ” “ M . L a of H . S H s eop rd , ntelope , ercule , " ” a i E i i “ a M ry , Prov dence, xped t on , M ry ” s and R owb u c k e a i f 0 Ro e , , v ry ng rom 40 to

00 s and i f 0 o 0 5 ton burden , mount ng rom 3 t 4 guns

T he i i in a . s a a a 1 6 e ch exped t on t rted J nu ry , 3 7 ,

l Ap p ledec omb e . and 2 th “ The by March 9 , Governor of the old

’ town did send our King s letter of pe ace a board to our G enerall and did des ire peace with our

i for are outwiththe new town a K ng, they (R bat). T his w as s oon turned to good purpose

E is a f i is by the ngl h , a tre ty (the text o wh ch printed) was concluded on beh alf of H is Britannic M ajesty with the Governor “ T he L ord Siddie H amnet Laishi (probably Sidi Mohammed Ali e l

Ais and of i in h), the men Sallee jo ned the fight

ai i s a s D ag nst the r brother rogue who , s y unton , “ were very c rop sic k e and called them and

“ ’ us E is Do e s . E al all i a ngl h gg ventu ly , the p r te

s i s ak a and i h p were t en and sm shed , the l ttle expedition returned to E ngland with flying colours

nd i is s a f a i i a a Br t h ubjects sn tched rom l v ng gr ve .

’ john Dunton s qu alifications to ac t as pilot and

s i i a are ai in his i i a l ng m ster det led ntroduct on , wherein he dedicates his little volume to the

V i . C . of H i C H on . a Rt . Lord ne , P the gh ourt

i a of the Adm r lty .

i h H onou ra le in S e te m e r las twas twe l e month R g t b , p b v

e med m se lf risone r from S all e in se nt ou t I rede y p y , b g maste r and p ilot in a S ally man of w arre with twe nty -one M oors and fiv e Flemish Re ne gadoe s unto the coast of

S e e p age

ski i d for a i a i the ll requ re m n pul t ng them , prevent i in i T h private enterpr se this d rection . e only

ssi i i a a is for national i a and it po b l ty now d ys p r cy , is for the prevention of this that G reat Britain lays D down her re adnoughts .

2 26 Se c tion VIII .

Re ma rk s on Books

thM r de a ling w i o oc c o .

n w i h M or c fa l natu rall into H E book s de a—li g t oc o l y two divisions those that ma ke the ir ap p e al to the ge ne ral reade r and those thatca te r for the stude nt. Of the se two divisions the forme r is the one w ith whic h I am he re c onc e rned : stude nts will natu rally se arc h the wn d ir i ne l la fair and i lio ra h of D r . ro an S o P b b g p y B L y , the c a talogu e s to b e found in the v arious gre atlibrarie s . But the re is a lar e od of e ne ral rea de rs who if onc e g b y g , inte res te d in a su e c t like to o a litt e de e e r than a me re bj , g l p f di F r su c h as the se the follow in note s ma b e u se u l . p . o g y T he list is se le c ti e and not e hausti e and the re mar s v x v . k are p u t forward onl y to se rv e as a guide to the c onte nts of the v olu me s . Of mode rn write rs in n lish at all e e nts the one ( E g , v ) l i Bud e tt oc c up y ing the fore mos t p ac e s the la te M r . g M in is rin i l w r s lus i e f n ri u ti ns e ak . H p c p a o k (e x c v o c o t b o to e riodica u lic ations p l p b ), An I ntroduc tion to the Arabic of M oroc c o T he M oorish Emp ire T he La nd of the M oors The M oors Life in M oroc c o and Glimp se s B e y ond (1 905) T he w ork s nu mbe re d and (4) yform uite e nc cl o ae dia of thin s M oorish and e e r r e r who y p g . v y w ishe s to se riou sl y s tudy the su bj e c t is bound to c onsu lt m r hi w oul f ilit t i the ; a p oc e ss w c h d b e ac a e d by fulle r ind c e s . sh ws m t rit of s t N o . (5) o a a u y yle thatis not re ac he d by ’ the othe rs and de e e ns one s re re t that the e n of the , p g p if w rit r is n w i g te d e o dle for e v e r . W t r r h r r . a w ma ti ti w i h M . al e H ris ose d a c c a it t B , p v y R aisuli e x c ite d an inte re st onl y se c ond to that of K aid M ac ean is the e s e u i ed of i in n lish wri e rs for l , b t q p p l v g E g t the task of M oorish c hronic e r. H is firstw ork The and l , L of an Afric an S ultan (1 889 writte n in a lightand amu sing " e in w a s follow e d u afile t an ac c ountof a ourne v , p b . j y ’ in dis i w hi h sh fin la on r n u se c ou d d a c e e e o e s she e s . g , p v y lv I tde al s w ithlittle known (and at the time almost unknown) c untr and is more o e r a we l w rit e n narra i e of ritish y, v l t t v B ppnok f h n Anothe r me mbe r o t e c lan H arris (M r . Le o ard H arris c orre s onde nt of the Dail Gra hic has re c e ntl . p y p p ublishe d a book large ly re tinte d from is p e riodical: “ ” e ntit e d With M ulai H afi at Fe z I t is a stirrin l . g ' " ac c ount of a “ s e c ia c orre s onde nts ad e n u res and p l p v t , n ns man int r tin r he c o ai e e s illust ations . I note t t y g , by ” w a tha t the S la e M ar e t ie w on a e 8 is tha of y, v k v p g 4 t M arrak e sh and is re roduce d from a hot ra h , p p og p b h - . nn l M r A . e o ritis ice c onsu atthe S outhe rn C a ita L x , B v l p Some of the illus trations in the p rese nt volume we re take n “ f r h i l o me by t e sa me K nd y S c ot. " " A w or k p ublis he d unde r the title of M oroc c o by B n n t f h . e su sa A . . orre s orms a and S L . S F T h f ns is some v olu me ou the subj e c t. e te xt o Be usan e c e lle nt and admira fu lfils his o e c t thatof i in an x , bly bj g v g imp re ssionis t w ord p ic ture of wha t is se e n by the Passe r " ' M r orre t ill s rati ns are in his wn t e wh h . . s s u t o o s ic By F yl , m r ifi l h r is o e hap p ily e xe mp l e d e se w e e . I f a ook thatfas c inate s its s t le and “ o b e wanted b by y g , ' " - - f re ad r C unnin ham G rahame s M o re b al Ac k sa . I M . g g sc holarshi and u aint historic al e e nd b e de sire d i will p l g , t } ' " f T h i h f or h H W e ir s a s o M oc c o. T e b e und in M . . S o r . k ac c ount of the T amshlohat She riffs to b e found ou e s 1 0 h to m notic e in the a e s is 2 &c . w as firs t rou 0p , , b g t y p g ook and su le me n e d afte rw ards whe n I w as the ir ues t b , pp t g l atT amsh oha t. n e d an int r stin c ount of M . Euge ne Aubin p ri t e e g ac tra e ls and re searc hin 1 0 u nde r the itle of Le M aroc v 9 4 , t w i h has e n translate d into n lish h c ; b e E g , n li h r t in 1 06 u nde r the title of a d u s e d M e ss s . e n p b by D , 9 . “ ” M r - I t is one of the es t mode rn o oc c o of T o day. b olume s on the su e c t althou h the st le is ne ce ssaril v bj , g y y l stin translation o . Anothe r transla tion of a w ork p ublishe d originall in " " re n h is Amon the Moors b G . M on ard. his F c g , y tb

ge ntle man (a Fre nc hj ournalist) whose line drawings p rofuse ly e m e llish the olume w as ac c om anie d on his il rima e b v , p p g g M r W alt r ris s a and u nle ss m lite rar by . e H ar ( e e p ge y y air has misl m M r H i h ha some thin to do fl ed e , . arr s as d g with the te t x . ’ M r h m A ide throu hM oroc c o . H u S tu tfie ld s o u e g v l R g , is inte re s tin althou h s me of his c ritic i ms se e m founde d g, g o s in i on suffic e ntdata . ’ Although the missionary s p oint of vie w is ap t to b e ias ed e t—makin due al ow anc e for the fa c t—the litt e b , y g l l l m i h D r nde r the title f Pione e r o u e u s e d . e rr u o v p bl by K , D r . K e rr. in in M or o is w e ll r h re in I t is the e rsona oc c wo t ad . g , g p l ' narrati e of te n e ars w ork at a at and the lain v y R b , p sinc e rity with whic h it is writte n inv e sts it with muc h int r s t e e . T w i — n G ro e G . o lad e s M iss I sabe l S a v or y a d Lady A . v ha e c ontri u te d amu sin o ume s the forme r unde r the v b v l , ” title of “ I n the T ai 0 the Pe a c oc a re fe re nc e to a l k , o sh ad G ro e c alls he r ook p p ular M oori p rove rb . L y v b " S e e nt - one a s C am in in M oroc c o and w rite s in v y D y p g , c hatt st e y yl . “ M oorish otu s e a e s C ow an ohnson the L L v , by J ( la tte r of whom also w rote a G uide unde r the title of " ' Tis a M oroc c o ) has be e n allowed to go ou t of p rint. matte r of re re t e ca use we ll - now n ooks w ritte n w ith g , b k b , mm n A ri e e rsonal e e rie nc e are none too c o o . p p xp , re fe re nc e (with e x trac ts) will b e found on p age s 7 4 - 7 5 to " ' m n h r f M . . hn n s r ion . ad a a ot e o r . . o so oduc t s F , R L N J p I t is a gre atp ity thatan ine xp e nsive little book of such ran meritshoul n b tt r wn in n an d ot e be e kno E gl d. ’ D r . Sp e nc e W a tson s Visit to W azzan is ” inte re stin al e i a ittle too muc h c ole ur de rose b u t g , b t l hi isi w s aid n i u s v t a p u de r e xce p t onally fa v o ra ble au sp ic e s . Of oo s a e alin to fol w ho i e a li ttle s tiffe r re adin b k p p g k l k g , ‘ the H istor and e sc ri tion of Afric a L e o Afric anu s y D p by , h he H l i u lis e d t a u t S oc e t osse sse s a rare c harm. p b by k y y , p ’ r w n n D r . B o s i troduc tion and note s are mas te rly p iec e s of ac u te re se a rc hand int r in e e st g st le . W ith re ard h y r g to t e flora , t e M oroc c o and G e a t

it E l H azan e l W azzani e l as i a no le M oor e duca ted at Fe z' F , b

c a ture d in 1 1 and se nt to the Po e . H e e c ame a hr s ian and p 5 7 p b C i t , wrote the b e sttre atise e tanton Mohamm n unt x eda co rie s . H ook e r . A las of Sir . H ooke r is sti the authorita i e work t J ll t v . al e it h B e t M e a in n “ T he and of the b t at M r . udg t k i L ” M oors has adde d man in e re s tin fac ts and de ails y t g t , m ' ho s on . whil h h u lishe d s t M r. T om s on s ac c ou nts of is ourne s p p j y . p b in the transac tions of the o al G e o ra hic al S ocie t and R y g p y , ' ” e x trac te d in S tanford s C omp e ndium of Ge ograp hy by

e a ne . A. H . e a ne r l r n ntri u ti ns to our K K , a e notab e e ce t c o b o

limited knowle dge . Of the itac lite rature the re is a c uriou s de arth c on y , side rin r ar ar g t e mode rn taste for adv e ntu e . B b y C orsairs S tan e ane Poole in the S tor of the , by l y L , y ations se rie s is a so e r narrati e of the historica side of N , b v l the u tio Th Ad n ur s f Thomas Pe llow with q es n. e v e t e o ( ’ Dr . rown s note s a hu man doc u me nt of re a tinte re st B ), g , oughtto ha v e c aughton more than it se e ms to ha v e done . e or H es t. Of the l h t e r H fist g o d standard books the be stis t a of G o g .

re fe rre d to on a e 2 1 6 u ishe d in Ge rman and anish. p g , p bl D i ’ “ Th 1 2 a . s and W indus s J ou rne y to M e q u ine z ( 7 5 . m) (re fe rre d to on p age 58) are the original sourc e s of many ’ " r . e ar roduc tion D d s M roc c o and the M oors e d s r . L e are o L . . 1 8 r ia l 59 1 ) is a standard book ; b utthe state me nts are not e l b e . t h e f M r Q ui e a re c e nt b ook has ap p e are d from t e p n o . A hm —“ h i h fian E . s e ad Bartle tt T e Pass ng of the S e re e " m ire I t re min of a whic hw as u ishe d in E p . ds me book p bl Pari in 1 8 e n de Gam on —“ U n s 8 6 from the p of L . p " ’ m ir i r M r Ashm rt e tts ra hic e n E p e q u C oule . ead Ba l p p limns with c harac te ristic touc hes those t umb nail ske tc he s ithw hi h n I h l urin b e w c h is name is li k ed. f t e c o o g ' “ " a t ime s itt n aut de sa ual ité . t a. e stro w e ll tis the dé l l g , f q Ou r au thor is e ss imis tic and w ill hardl allow the M oor p , y

an atriotism. e all the trou le is that he has too y p R y , b muc h H is de v otion to his village and his tri be le ads him int r r e s I o de adly fe uds w ith othe r Village s and othe t ib . have be e n struc k by the c l ose re se mblanc e of M oroc c o to m di v a Th f th S ttish no le s and e m al S c otl nd. e e uds of e c o b t n that c lans invite d the atte ntions of Edw ard I . Ye e ve mighty and skilfu l le ade r c an hardly b e said to hav e w on a r p e mane nt suc c e ss . far th most oluminous d al ua le w or has By e v an v b k ,

howe v e r e e n done the re nch all honou r to the m . , b by F ( ) Whate v e r w e may think and w ishabou t Fre nc h te rr itorial as ira ions our i erar inde e dness to rance is incalc ul p t , l t y bt F

au M aroc 1 8 to The first art is c once rne d with , 9 9 p the iff and e ala and inc lude s T an ie r Fe z M e lilla R Dj b , g , , . an W T h n h l h r d a zzan. e se c o d e c a l s t e Be raba (Be rbe ) and de als w ith the distric t e m ra d tw n Alc azar Fe z b c e be e e , , the i e r M l u i a the i T he third art R v o o y and R v e r S e bou . p " tre a ts of the S u s and e m race s M arra es h T ar udant , b k , , Tiznit h t ll r r h A adir M o ador &c . T e ra e e c ossed t e , g , g , v ” Bi u n b o a Pass and p as se d rou nd many tight c orne rs . M l M . ou ie ras is Profe ssor of Arabic la nguag e and li te ra ture a t Oran and inste ad of o a in in e rson , v y g g p , e mp loy e d tru stworthy nativ e s w ho tra v e rse d the c ountry and brought bac k to him information whic h he has ” e m die d in h f ur o is olu me L e M aroc I nc onnu . O c o se b v , mu c h of its v alue de p e nds u p on the re liability of the p e op le e m - M u l . i o p oy e d Bu tthe twe nty tw o y e ars ove r wh c h M . ’ e ras work has e te nde d the nowle d e and e e rie nc e he b x , k g xp has himse lf ac uire d se e m to re nde r it im ossi e for him q , p bl to b e se ri u sl de lu H is olu me s are mostfasc inatin o y ded. v g ; his rinc i al il rim M ohamme d b e n T a e a mos t p p p g , yy b , i ’ l c ture s ue fi ure . As an instanc e of this man s w or e t p q g k , me e x trac tthe follow ing adve ntu re ’ Our p ilgrim is j ourne y ing in the R mara (Ghomara). ' One da in the mountains n the wa to K aa S e ro he is y o y , s t W e s h rom op p e d by fiv e me n . he nc e c om tt ou F “ T e m f th e i i ns are a t his tuan I a o e n S aid. e u , B F v g re n n h b u t I am nota S aidian as ti a mome t. H e c rie s O b , " re all nl h n ne f the I o w e nt the re to s tud . T e o o y , y y f illa rs th w f i W hi sin v ge re a handfu l o du s tin h s e ye s . lst u g his h nds to r ub i u t h has all his c loth s and e lon in s a to , e e b g g filc h n i tre h oe s e d sa e o e ra e d sh rt. T hu s ac c ou d e , v gg g n ’ H e re i to the v illage of K aa S e ro and e nte rs a mosque . he is admitte d to the c lass i e n c lothe s and a lod in , g v g g f i r i s e n nd the or the n ght. I n the morning a C rie s t rou v illage c hanting W ho strip p e d the T alib (student) " e ste rda ! U c ome s a man with I now and i e s y y p k , g v th he are n f d fte r some u e s tionin e list. T se t or an a y , q g ’ c onfe ss The the n e rforc re tu rn the tra e lle r s e lon . y p e v b g ’ in s amidstthe ir fe llow illa e rs e s ts lau hte r and e e rs . g v g j , g . j 9 l A hos ti e tribe . T he se w ande rin s tude nts o to a town e nte r a mos ue and ask for f g g , q , m u s ist ac hin . th l e n l f ll h T he s te g I f e p ac s b e ot a l u t e y are ad itted. y b on c hari t or wha t the an e arn. I t matte rs not what the ir a e is y y c g , w he the r i tb e 1 6 or 60 . Se c tion lX.

D na i y st es .

me n the “ K e on a e 1 1 6 the follo win T o s up p le t y p g , g found use fu table s may b e l .

l I dre e si il /na sty .

A . D.

- h 88 1 I dris I . son of Ab d Alla . 7 ( ) ,

7 9 1 12 (2) M inority of his son. — ri I I f r an f nde r f Fe z . I d s . son o d ou o 7 9 3 (3) ( ), 8 8 M uhamme d—son of 2 (4) — 836 (5) Ali s on of - n 848 (6) Yahy a I . so of —s on f (7 ) Yahy a I I . o Ali I I — randson of (8) . g ah a I I I — randson of (9 ) Y y . g 1 ah I V — re a ra ndson of ( 0) Y y a . g t g 1 I nte rre numof sur e r 9 2 g U p .

H asan the e in- T a e r —desc e ndan of , V p p t ' W ith Fe z finally lost to the Dy nas ty in

2 A . D . it s till stru le s on 9 5 —, gg 9 25 (1 2) K e nnoun de sc e ndant of ’ ’ — 9 49 (1 3) Abou l AishAhmed son of 9 55 (1 4) E l H asa n -son of 86 ie s and e nds d nas 9 D y ty .

T he Emirs of the M iknasa and M aghroua Be r be rs su c c ee de d in o er hrowin the I dree si nastie s and he ld Fe z v t g Dy , alte rna te l ill itwas ak e n usuf ib n T ashfin in 1 06 y t t by Y 9 .

2 33 lmor d D fi av i e yna sty .

ah a—son of I rahim e l D e ali Y y b j d . ah a—son of mar Y y O . A ou Be khr- son f m r b o O a . u su f—s on f shi Y o T a fin. Ali—son of

T a she fin—son of — M ohamme d I shak son of H e is illed M arra e sh n at a d d nast e nds . k k , y y

( lmob a d n fl e Dy asty .

e a th of M e dhi I bn Tumat't D ( ). 1 omin of Ab d e l M umin ( ) C g .

- — (2) Abou Yak ub - Yusu f son of “ — (3) Abou - Yus u f- Yak u b—( The Victorious son of 4 M ohamme d N asir s on of ( ) — (5) Yusu f M os tansir son of — (6) Ab d e l W ahid son of — (7 ) E l Adil son of — (8) Yahy a son of — (9 ) Ab oul U la I dris M e hmoon son of — (1 0) Ab d e l W ahid son of — (1 1 ) Ali e s S aid son of — (1 2) O mar M urtada de sc e nded from ’ — (1 3) Ab d l U la W athik de sc e ndant of on ue red and ille d b the e ni M arin and C q k y B , t e n s dynas y d .

Be ni M a rin il l/ na sty .

- - a Ab d al H kk . m Oth an I .

ha mme d I M u .

- ah b u - e kr Abou Y ya A B .

2 34

’ ‘ H asa ne e he ri s D S f yna sty . — hamme . M u d I . She ik

- Ab d Allah.

mme I I M uha d .

A ou - M arwan-A da - M alik I b b l . A ul A as Ahmad b bb . S he ik

u - Par is R ivals Abo . Z a y dan a dan—a one Z y l . M A -al - k Abou arwan ( bd M ali I I ). W alid .

M hamme d I I I u .

mad I I Ah .

' hri Fila le e S e f s fi yna sty .

hi he Gr atTa latta Ras d (T e fi ). sm il b rother o R ashid I a ( f ). Ahmad The Golden

Ab d- Allah with3 rivals ( — ). - I son of Ab d A l h. M uhamme d . l a i — M uhamm Ya z d son of e d. H isham r al rs ( iv brothe ). S ule iman }

b - i- h A d a Ra man . mm I I M uha e d .

H asan . — Ab d- ul -Aziz son of H asan fi — n H a d so of H asan .

2 3 6 B T T E M A I U R K NG .

T he milk i s u t in a oat sk in sl u n a s ill u strate d and s w u n t p g , g , g o and fro till the u tte r forms b .

PAGE P AGE Ahmed- ib n Abdallah 1 05 Antae us 1 08 “ Ahmed- ib n H anbal 9 1 Aid e l Futoor 9 7 24 ’ ‘ - Aid e l K ir 9 9 , 6 0 6 8 b 9 7 , 9 9 43 , Aissouwa 8 1 01 1 01 ‘ 86 9 , , Ait e mmour 1 0 At as Z 4 l . ' — Ak nee f 60 6 A ood v ide u te . 1 . 5 L Alarc os (Battle of) 1 28 Arabia n N ights Alc azar Arabic (M oorish) Battle ) 1 36 Arbu tus Cit 1 Arc han e G a rie l y) 59 , g l b Allah 2 0 2 Arc hite c ture , 4 , 43 l e A so ride Attribut s . Ge ne ral) Ale andria 1 1 8 ome stic 5 0 x (D ) 43 , , Alfre d (the “ G re at 1 20 Alge c e iras Are a of M oroc co 9 C onfe re nc e ) Argan T ree 2 0 (T own) Argan Fore sts 29 Alge ria Ari H aian 1 1 Are a ) Aristoc ratic D e sce nt 1 85 Ge ne ral 8 1 0 1 1 8 1 1 Armada S anish 2 1 ) , , , 4 ( p ) 3 ’ Ali M ohamme d s son Arts M agical in (aw 1 Arzila 1 1 0 ) 37 34 , 4 , Alif (le tte r) 49 Asar 9 2 Almanac 9 5 - 9 9 A sfi—v i fii k de Sa . Almohade s 1 1 1 26 - 1 3 0 Ash 2 7 , a 9 ° Almond Ashmead—v zde ar l e tt B t . T re e s) As k ar 38 Fru it) Atla s Almora ide s 1 1 v 7 , 24 1 , 1 2 6 Aloe s 1 7 Alp s 1 1 Altitu de s Attrac tions of Amins administrators 1 80 ( ), list of 3 6 1 9 4 Amzmiz 20 208 2 0 ‘ 1 86 7 , , 8 An h b oob 1 67 of Alla 42 , 9 4 Andal usian M oors 1 6 1 6 Au in 2 28 4 , 9 b (E ) Anfa—v ide asa n Auc tione e rs—m Dilal s C Bla c a . et: nu “ An al Regis te r 2 1 7 Auras (M t. )

2 38 PAGE PAGE 1 28‘ Bit 24 , 2 5 I 1 8 1 Bizb ooz 33 . 9 . 9 5 1 67 Blac k G uard 1 3 1 Blad E l M aghkse n) 3 5 (E s S iba) 3 6 Blue Rolle rs 1 52 Ba —v ide G ate oa dil 1 1 b . B b 7 Bac k nish (S he ik s) 7 6 Boa ts 29 Baggage rs Bon C ap e ) 9 Ba i e 2 6 oni(ac e C ou nt 1 1 0 gp 7 . 2 41 B ( ) a s Le athe r 6 1 2 2 1 oon C om anions B g ( ) , 57 1 , 6 1 B p 44 an ue t Cham e r or de r T owns 2 0 20 B q b 44 , B 3 7 Barba rossa 1 34 Bosrah 1 60 ‘ Bargaining 58 Bou ak ar 37 artle tt Ashmea d 2 0 Bou egrrar i er B (E . ) 3 R v ) Bars (Rive r) 1 3 (v arious name s) 1 7 5 asin 6 2 Bou H amara B 45: 4 1 59 1 aths 1 rass W or 268 B 69 B k 55, ea u M oorish 8 rea d 8 1 0 B ty ( ) 4 , 49 B 7 , 5 1 Be ds 1 6 Break fas t 80 Bee hiv e H ut 1 51 B re e zes 1 1 Be it e l Ginaiz 9 3 Bridge 1 62 e lt 6 6 ri is hGo e rnme n 2 2 1 B 3 , 7 B t v t e on Thos 2 2 1 room 1 B lt ( . ) B 7 Be nik as 37 row ne ( 1 4 2 1 0 e ni M arin - 1 1 ud e tt 13eak in 2 2 B 7 , g 7 , 7 Ori in oi 1 0 1 1 uildin s Priv a te 5 3 ( g ) 3 , 3 g ( ) B e ni H assan 1 64 Burnoos 63 ' ir i M ir M ts 1 urton S . 6 e n t . 6 B ) 4 B ( R ) 3 , 7 0 8 Be nsusan é . 228 , L , 9 r d Vic 2 1 utte r M akin 2 6 Be ar ( . ) 3 B g 3 e r e r C ostume 60 6 zantine I nfl ue nc e s 1 B b 1 , 5 By 5 er e rs 1 0 1 6 B b 9 , 2 (C onv e rsion of) 1 1 3 Bib aoun Pass 1 1 irdah— ide P c k B v a . Birds in Paradise Birds C actus B irmingham C afé Chantant isho M rs ird C aftan—vide af n B p ( B ) K ta .

2 39 PAGE C ame l C onfrate rnities vide C am e ds G uilds p B . Gam n de C o ours Taste in p o (L . ) l ( ) 53 C anary I slands C onfe re nc e (Alge c e iras ) 1 44 C ar e ts a at C on ure r 1 I 8o p (R b ) j 59 . 7 9 . t C arthaginians C ons ul 4 1 C asa la nc a C oo e r 6 b k y 45. 4 . 7 9 (Bombardme nt) 1 44 C ordov a 34 (Ge ne ral N ote s ) (Dy nasty of) 1 1 61 C astane ts 7 2 C ornfie lds 2 1 C as te llanos 1 08 C ork Oa s 1 8 1 8 * k 3 , 3 C astilian e aut 1 1 2 C orsair in doms 1 1 8 1 B y K g , C astle s 20 2 0 20 C ost of T ra e 4 , 41 , 9 v l t C st — C a tle 1 0 o ume mde Ap p are l . C attle Birds 1 60 C ottage s N ativ e ) 1 8 C ame l s 1 5 C ountry ouse 7 6 ’ “ C ame l s e c k 2 0 C our te s 80 81 N y , C in ou sin A 1 am 1 6 2 C . 2 p g , 5 ) 3 i i 3 5 - w G 2 C a tal C tie s 1 2 8 C o an . . 2 p , 5 , ( D 9 I 6 - 1 C rafts 5 6 31 7 5 33 , 55, Ce c il H ote T an ie r 1 C ris M rs 2 1 226 l ( g ) 7 p ( ) 5, C e re m ni 9 1 9 re s 1 0 o e s , C p C e uta 1 1 2 1 C rue lt 1 1 , 43 y 4 C haffe r n 8 C rusa de s 1 1 i g 57 , 5 7 C hairs 1 6 C ultiv ate d Land 1 7 C harac te r of M oors 5 C unningham G rahame 228 C harle s I 2 2 C u shions e m roide re d . 3 ( b ) 44 harl 1 C e s I I . 7 7 C harle magne 1 20 C hény (K e rdec ) 2 3 1 C he ss 3 0 C he v rillon (Andre) 2 3 1 D agge rs C hristian S lave s 2 1 7 - 2 2 1 D ail y Routine “ — C hurc h S c hools 2 2 1 D amah v ide D rau ghts . C lose d Ports 1 9 4 Damasc us C limate Da nc ing oa st 1 3 1 4 anc in Girls C , D g I nlan 1 3 D arb ukkah C oas t T ow ns 1 7 5- 1 9 7 Date s l r P (A so s e e se p a ate orts . ) Date C rop s C oe ur- de - ion 2 1 1 le ssin L 3 , 7 (B g)

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242 PAGE P AG E " Gr — i H azza b a 2 e at Atlas w de Atlas . 9 G re gory 1 1 1 H azzam 67 G r e H e a lin Art 1 o ad A . G . 2 2 v , L y 9 g 9 G ru b S tree t 2 2 2 H e bre w Prop he ts 1 03 G uayangos 1 1 2 ‘ H e dj az 1 38 G ue st Cham e r 2 H e rac lius m e ror 1 1 1 b 6 , 54 1 (E p ) Guilds 1 H e rc ule s 1 09 G uishT ri e s 8 1 H e re di ar S aintshi b 3 , 39 t y p 3 5 1 02 1 06 3 3 , , H esp e ride s (G ard s of) 1 83 H ist r K e o H o y ( y t ) i s tor y — H ol Citie s b ide S ac re d . H adjib (Chamberlain) 3 7 y H one 1 H adjra h W akif vide y 50 ri H oo e S ir 2 0 U p ght S tone . k r ( J 3 H orse s 8 H afs ids 1 1 7 1 4 ‘ s it lit H airdre s sing 58 o p a y 7 5 H eist Ge or 2 1 6 2 0 H all M oorish 1 g , 3 ( ) 43 . 441 . 641 ( ) ‘ l H amadsha 1 0 1 1 01 H ote s 5 , “ H ammam— vide aths C e c il T angie r 1 B . ( ) 7 7 " ‘ H ammudids 1 1 2 ‘ R o ai M o ador 1 8 1 7 , 1 3 y ( g )

H ondas M . H amtuz 67 ( 1 7 5 H ounds 28 2 H anda la 1 1 4 , 9 H ouse s Pri ate 5 3 6 H anno ( v ) . 7 , 1 6 6 1 6 7 H anyna , H dids 1 1 H are mLife u 7 H umanitie s 6 9 H are s 3 3 , H ut e ehi e 1 8 20 H arisah (B v ) , 1 H ark a (C a v alry H arris (L e onar H arris (W al te r B (Author and Exp lore r) 2 0 2 2 5, 7 H arou n e l ashid 1 2 0 I is 1 6 0 1 60 “ R b , hif i H as (R ve r) 1 8 1 I b n Askar 1 05 H asa nee S he riffs n 1 I b Khaldu n 1 08 1 1 0 , 20 , 1 1 8, 1 3 7 I b n K hallik an 1 08 H a ssan T owe r 1 1 2 1 8 lis 5 , 9 , 7 I b 1 9 H assoua I dre e si Dy nasty 1 1 6 H au if Au hor i 1 1 9 I dr s I . 1 0 ( t ) 7 , H awkin dri 1 g I s I I . 64 P AGE I fli (Riv e r ) K aise riyah I friki a y Kamanjab I maum - 3 3 9 0 “ , , 2 K annou fa M 9 ( ts . ) I m e rial C itie p s 1 48 K arakab I m o ts p r 1 7 6 Kas bah I n c e nse Burner 26 268 49 , 3 1 , 1 Kas im I ndus trial C e nt re s 1 47 K ataif I nstrume nts—b ide M u i l s c a . e ane A . K ( H . ) I rrigation 1 2 2 2 1 6 1 ’ , , Ke ating s Powde r I sl att e 0 y (B l 1 41 K e rde c —ride Chen — y . I smail b ide 13ulai I . e rr D K ( r . ) 2 29 K hare d ite 1 1 j 4 , 1 20 ‘ Khotbah 9 2 Khouadra 2 2 in dw ar V K g E d I I . 1 8 King John Lac kland 1 30 ' K tan I 96 1 3 91 11 11 Ot (Gus a e 1 0 l t v ) h K me e s —vide T uni c . u “ . 2 3 1 Ksah 63 e llab —vzde e a j b ah. D ll K oomee ah—vide a e r y D gg . e sse s 28 oos - oos 2 3 ’ K K 7 9 . 5 1 s w e le r s work 66 l 55, , 2 65 1 Koran 0 e ws 1 1 7 0, 1 5 4 1 5 5 1 0 , , 9 T e t 0 ( x ) 3 5 0111 11 80 11 R L . . N 7 4 , K ootoob uiya (M osque 2 2 7 5 9 T ow e r 2 ) 3 . 51 ub y (C ap e ) K ootoob e e yah (T ow e r) us 6 2 ; 45. 4 . 59 1 1 57 " ulian C oun 1 1 1 1 1 2 1 1 2 ( t) , , K ora ish (C lan) ustinian 1 1 o Koran (Dre ss Re gulations)

60 , 6 1 Ge ne ral) 9 0 T e xts) 20 u a i o * 1 0 K bb s . 62 . 2 9 . ‘ a ak ah—mde u a s 1 2 1 1 K b Pattens K bb 7 ’ 9 K aftan 6 1 1 2 Ku a Shrine , 7 , 256 1 bb ( ) Kahe na 1 0 (Frontisp iec e ) 54 7 , Kaid K udrah 6 6 4 1 4 : Kaids 8 K unafe h 6 3 , 46, 4 i Ka rouan 1 1 1 K fitfib iya (Mosque Kairouin — (M osq ue ) 1 68 T owe r) vzde K ootoob e e yah

244

PAGE P AGE M aghk se n 1 00 ‘ L a C arona 1 43 (T ribe s of) 37 M i “ L ac out 1 24 ag c 1 9 , 1 9 ’ La dies D re ss 65 M ahab e rb ik um 43 al a M annanah 1 8 M ahka zni 1 6 2 L l 4 , 3 Land C ultivate d 1 7 M ail I tine rar y 1 7 6 ‘ an ua e 6 9 6 M akhazni 1 L g g , 9 49 arac he 1 M ali ib n Anas 1 ‘ L 59 , k 9 (H istory) 1 40 M amora 2 1 9 L am uma—v i l r i e s M aniac s t de A mo av d . 9 4 L a Valliere 1 40 M ans ure e yah d s e a re Dr . 1 1 2 0 M a 26 L ( ) 9 , 3 p 9 eathe r 5 5 2 0 M ar le L , 5 b e a the r W ork 1 6 M ar e t L 55, 5 , k I 26 1 T ue sda 7 3 . 1 y) le 1 hu rs d L e C rc (R . 2 3 T a y) — Le e wan arsh(M iss ) vide C risp Le ge nd (abou t England) artil h 1 e nno A . M arrakes 1 6 81 L x , , 5 , , ‘ L eo Africa nus 1 I 1 1 1 35. 35 . 4 , 43 , 1 1 8 7 1 88 2 2 I 1 I 20 7 5. , , 9 451 5 3 Le v ante rs 1 96 of) 1 25 Lite rature 4 S tre e ts) 1 56 Litham 1 24 1 48- 1 52 v 1 - ide Veil . 6 2 4 Lord of M is rule 1 7 0 Gate s) 1 54 L os C inc o G re mios Ge ne ral N otes) 1 52 - 1 58 1 89 Kaise riyah) 1 56 " Loti (Pie rre ) Patron S aints ) 1 58 ’ Lot us T re e (S drar) 2 3 Unique C olou ring) 1 53 Lotu s (T re e ) 1 7 W ate r S up p ly) 1 56 i Lou s XI V . 1 40 9 7 L oukk os i e r 1 1 82 M a c hloc s (R v ) 59 , t k 55 Lus tration M attre sse s 44 Lute M atthe w Paris 1 30 M aun (Osc ar) 9 3 M aure tanian Quadrila M te ral M a 1 1 9 0 zagan 49 . 1 89 , ’ M ac u a ’ — a T . B . m l y ( M da mah mde Belt . M afiic kin 1 1 g M ecc a 89 , 5

245 PAG E PAGE M eakin (Budge tt) M onastir g Bud e tt M eakin M ont 8 g bard (G . 2 2 M edic ine M onths 9 6 M edina M oorish Charac te r 5 M edinah M orocc an H umanitie s 9 M edmada N s . 6 ( ) 3 3 . M e alithic C irc e M orocc o 8 1 0 g l , M ekkas (Riv e r) 9 limb M oks (T ax ) om of) 1 33 M e llah 1 e ature s 1 1 1 54 , F ) 5 M e lon (Ex p ulsion ' M e rchan s re ss 6 2 6 from S ain 2 1 t D 4 , 5 1 p ) 3 22 M orris D anc e s 30 M e uine z 1 1 1 1 M osa ic ork q 9 , 35. 39 . W 43 1 62 1 7 1 - 1 7 5 M os ue 0 88 , q 5 , (C onstru c tion of) 50 " 1 1 - 1 5 3 1 8 7 7 5 , 53 7 1 7 3 M osque T owe rs 7 2 ‘ 1 7 4 M ou e dhims 9 2 M oue tte S n 2 20 2 2 2 ) , M i dul 62 M oulai E( H as 1 38 iii a z i M i r A 2 1 2 2 M t r Or ani aton oul e e s . y g ( ) 3 , 3 M inare t 88 2 M ountains 8 1 0 , 5 1 , 9 , M issionarie s 9 3 M ountain S ce ner y 203 1 - 1 9 4 ouss a e e l 1 1 7 , (Dj b ) ' ‘ tions) 1 9 4 M toogi (Kaid) 208 2 1 0 ' 1 1 I ‘ M o awi a 1 1 Y) 4 1 9 3 y 5 9 2 M ue ddhin 52 1 1 0 M uhamme d b in Ab d M 4 , 5 M ohamme danism vide Allah 1 9 1 M u lai—see name s w ith Re ligion . M ohammed out the inse rtion of 1 2 his i le (ib n T umari) 6 t t t . * 1 3 0 M ulai Ab d- e r- Rahman 1 88 (E l K aim - 1 35 M ulai Abdallah 1 7 3 M ohammed in Ab dallah 1 4 1 M ula i E l H asa n 1 44 M ohammed b e n Ahmed M ula i E shs he rif 1 38 (H istorian) 1 7 5 M ulai H afid 1 45 M ohtass e b 56 M ulai I dris (M os ue ) - 1 68 ’ 1 02 M ulai I shmail 5 %ta ble s1 7 2 M ole (English) 1 7 7 M ulai M ahdi - 1 38

246

PAGB Patte ns (w oode n) Prie stly Domination Pa ymaste r (of S ultan) Proc e ssions Pe llow (T hos . Prop he t (T he ) Pe op le (e ndT e ir W a y s) Prop he t Pe p ys (S amuel Protec tion Perfume Sp rin Ie r Prov e nde r r e — phrk ovs uzda Hanuo . Provis—ions Phe l s Thos . 1 2 Punic vide artha i ians p ( 7 C g n . Phoe nic ian (0)d City) Pid t l n oe (de S . O o ) Pie rre Loti Q — Q uadrilate ral v ita 2 7 9 . 53 1 M au re tanian . Pirac y 1 4 1 (C lose of) 2 25 Lite rature ) 2 22 - 2 26 M oorish) 2 1 3 - 22 6 Origin of) 2 1 4 e sse ls u se d in a a 1 1 8 4 V ) R b t 5 , , 2 1 1 8 6 1 8 7 1 8 7 , , 9 Pirate s (De sc e ndants of) 1 85 trac ti 1 86 Poe ms 0 2 7 5. 56 , 1 87 Poe try 7 4 oi) 1 29 Pole hood 1 0 T ow e r 1 2 1 8 3 ) 9 , 7

Poole 8 . ane 6 2 0 S aint 1 86 ( L ) 9 , 3 ) Ports C lose d 1 9 4 of S adi) 1 9 2 Portu ue s e 1 1 1 1 ain 1 2 g 35, 9 0 , 9 R Postal Addre sse s 1 66 Rainfall 1 3 Potte r 6 5 6 1 9 2 R a ritish 8 y 5 , , , j (B ) 9 2 68 amadan 9 8 263 1 , 1 R 9 7 , Pow de r Pla 2 7 R aoud- e l - a rtas 1 08 y K , Prae torian G uard 1 4 1 Ras hid (The G re at 2 2 9 1 T afilatta 1 8 5 , 5 1 , ) 3 C e re monial) 9 1 Re c ite r 7 1 " rm 9 1 e c ruitin 0 Fo s 0 , R g 39 , 7 H urs 9 1 2 R e dat iv e r 1 6 1 20 o 0 , 9 (R , 3 Postu re s of 2 2 ede m tion ofC a ti e s ) 9 , 551 R p ) p v ) Pric kl Pear 1 0 220 22 1 y 5 ,

248 PAG E PAG E Re de mp tionist Fathe rs S aints 2 20 2 2 1 Patron 1 8 , ) 5 Re ligion 9 0- 9 5 T ute lar ) 85 R e nt 9 3 aint W ors i 9 4 e e nu e of Zoui a 2 00 S aladin 2 1 1 R v y 3 , 7 2 alle e 1 08 1 8 4 1 8 5 7 S , , Riffs 1 40 S and D une s 1 6 i hts ore i n 4 0 S a or M is I 2 2 s . R g F g ) v y , 9 Riv e rs List 0 1 2 c ale (Pe ntatonic ) 7 2 ’ ' ’ R mar — id h a r r—vz s a v e 2 om a dra de Lotu . oa ds e a n for e l R S so s T rav . ode ric S e ou i e r 1 1 1 6 1 R b (R v ) , Romans Se gonsa c M arquis de ) Rop e s Se r v ant ob le m 85 ' oud- e l - ar as - zde e r al— s R K t v S w v ide D ra we r . R aoude S er ants 1 . v 6 oumi 1 1 6 1 hafi ‘ R 9 , S ac 9 1 Routine (Daily) 83 S hammish 1 83 R ov e rs (of S alle e ) 1 85 S hawia 1 89 “ 2 1 2 1 22 She e 1 0 1 0 1 0 4 , 5, 3 p —, 7 7 . 5 , 5 Roy al H ote l (M ogador) b e e p Fea st vide Aid ’ 1 e l ir 9 4 K b . M i he l Roy al a l S . S l ah 1 8 7

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S et 7 Potter an /7 y , d Fee M etal Work .

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W ar d H J B M ys te r i ou s Mor o c c o

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