The Best of Texas by David Baird, Eric Peterson & Neil E

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1 The Best of Texas by David Baird, Eric Peterson & Neil E. Schlecht

Texans are a unique bunch, unapologetic in their swaggering embrace of the place they call home. “It’s flat and dry,” you say. “Yup, parts are,” they reply. “It’s hot,” you say. “Hotter ’n hell,” they confirm. “Texans talk funny,” you say. “Y’all do too,” they retort. Self-confident and independent almost to a fault, Texas seems to embody all that’s good, bad, and especially big about the United States. The former independent Republic of Texas—which shook off the landlord claims of Spain, Mexico, France, and even the United States—has diehards who still wish Texas would suck it up and secede. Texans don’t seem to mind too much if outsiders get caught up in the myths and clichés about Texas (that way they get to keep the truth to themselves). A 10-gallon hat doesn’t hold 10 gallons of anything, nor is Texas flat, dry, and featureless, filled with cowboys on the range, oilmen watching their backyard gushers spit up black gold, and helmet-haired beauty queens. But it’s hard to compete with the state’s image, the canvas for 100 Western flicks. The big-sky frontier of Texas and the West is the quintessential American landscape, the mythic cowboy leading his longhorn cattle on long drives a heroic figure. The outlaws who thumbed their noses at authority (behind the barrel of a gun) and the boomtown gamblers who struck it rich are also part of the romantic tale of Texas. The cowboy still exists, but Texas is now decidedly more urban than rural. Three of the nation’s 10 largest cities are here: Houston, Dallas, and San Antonio. Texas today is as much a leader of high-tech industries as it is an agricultural and ranching state. There are world-class art museums and collections in Houston, Fort Worth, and Dal- las, where local philanthropists have used their money and influence to import the world’s most celebrated architects to build some of the nation’s most talked-about museums. Although Texas is by and large a conservative place, Austin has for decades supported thriving hippie and renegade musician communities, and Dallas is nipping at its heels with a thriving music scene. The state is a melting pot dotted by pockets of Czech, German, and Irish communities; bilingual populations in the lower Rio Grande ValleyCOPYRIGHTED and border towns; and more than MATERIAL four million people of Hispanic descent statewide. This enormous state also has immense geographical diversity. Cross Texas and you’ll see desert plains in the Texas Panhandle, the Piney Woods in East Texas, beaches in the Gulf Coast, North Texas prairies, scenic wildflowers and lakes in Central Texas Hill Country, desert canyons in Big Bend National Park, and the rugged Guadalupe Mountains. Still, some of the clichés are true. Texas, the second-largest state in the United States in both land mass and population, is larger than any country in Europe. You can set 05_082980 ch01.qxp 5/9/07 11:57 PM Page 8

8 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF TEXAS out from Amarillo in your car and drive south for 15 hours and still not reach the Mexico border. And everything is bigger in Texas, of course: The ranches are bigger, the steaks are bigger, and the bigger and badder cars—Cadillacs with longhorns on the grille and monster pickup trucks with gun racks in back—really do exist. In Texas you can carry a concealed handgun—even in church—and the state is known as the capital punishment capital of the world. “Don’t Mess with Texas” is more than an effective antilitter campaign. Texans, though, are startlingly friendly and hospitable folks. Deals are still com- pleted with handshakes, and adults say “yes, ma’am” and “nossir” to each other. Also, Texans love their sports, especially football. This is a place where entire towns pack the bleachers for Friday night high school games and preachers mention the game in their sermons, praying for victory in a kind of gridiron holy war. Former Texas governor and owner of the Texas Rangers baseball team George W. Bush, who delights in using the down-home moniker “Dubya,” lost the popular vote but was elected the 43rd president of the U.S. in 2000 and reelected in 2004. Bush regularly draws the national media corps to his sprawling ranch in Crawford, Texas, outside of Waco, when he takes long breaks from Washington “to get back in touch with real people.” (Cindy Sheehan, the antiwar activist who lost a son in the Iraq war and camped outside the ranch, may not have been what he had in mind.) Bush usually makes the best of a photo op by strapping on his cowboy boots and homespun airs and hopping in the pickup, showing that he knows how to make the most of his transplanted Texan status. It’s hard for most people to be indifferent about Texas. It’s a place to romanticize and ridicule, to dream about and dismiss. Texans can leave the state, but sooner or later they’ll admit their weaknesses for Texas dance halls and Old West saloons, Tex- Mex and barbecue, cowboy boots, and country music. From the big sky and flat plains and the Hill Country highways lined by Texas bluebonnets to the larger-than-life per- sonalities like LBJ, Anne Richards, and Willie Nelson: Texas stays with you. —Neil E. Schlecht

1 The Best Luxury & Historic Hotels • The Adolphus Hotel (Dallas; States, the Mansion draws movie & 800/221-9083 or 214/742- stars, princes, presidents, and luxury 8200): This landmark Beaux Arts mavens. Formerly the grand estate of hotel, built by beer baron Adolphus a cotton magnate in the 1920s and Busch, looks and feels like a Euro- 1930s, the Mansion is refined and pean château. Luxuriate among dark- supremely elegant throughout, with wood parlors, baroque art and service to match. The innovative antiques, and an opulent dining Southwestern restaurant has slipped a room, one of Big D’s best restaurants. notch, but is still among the most Rooms are English country style, and prized in town. See p. 85. a three-course English tea is served in • Hotel Zaza (Dallas; & 866/ the lobby living room every after- 769-2894 or 214/468-8399): This noon. See p. 82. super-fashionable Uptown boutique • The Mansion on Turtle Creek hotel has a catchy name and a cachet (Dallas; & 800/422-3408 or 214/ few can match. It is luxurious but 599-2100): Repeatedly named one of überhip, with eclectic style to burn. the top five hotels in the United The numerous “concept” suites with 05_082980 ch01.qxp 5/9/07 11:57 PM Page 9

THE BEST LUXURY & HISTORIC HOTELS 9 funky themes (the “Shag-a-delic” Uptown/Galleria area. The Derek Suite, anyone?) now pale in compari- offers a rare combination of practicality son with the new, fantasy-land “Mag- and style, making it a perfect choice for nificent Seven” suites. See p. 86. the business traveler or the vacation • W Dallas-Victory (Dallas; & 877/ shopper. Service is smooth, and the WHOTELS or 214/397-4100): The hotel’s restaurant is winning raves from most buzzed-about hotel in Big D the local food writers. See p. 170. has an unwieldy name, but panache • Lancaster Hotel (Houston; & 800/ to burn. With a striking tower design, 231-0336 or 713/228-9500): Per- views of the Dallas skyline, a 10,000- sonal service, charming rooms, and square-foot Bliss spa, an outpost of great location are the keys to this NYC’s Craft restaurant, and Michael hotel’s success. If there’s one hotel Kors–designed uniforms, it’s got all that makes having a car unnecessary the star power it needs to attract a in Houston, this is it. A block away healthy portion of the fabulous and are the symphony, the opera, three beautiful. See p. 86. theaters, and the ballet. Also within a • Stockyards Hotel (Fort Worth; block or two are a multiplex cinema & 800/423-8471 or 817/625- and several restaurants and clubs— 6427): Over-the-top luxury would be you’ll have the best part of the city at gauche in the old stockyards, so this your feet. See p. 165. extremely comfortable and authentic • Omni Corpus Christi Hotel slice of the Old West qualifies as a (Corpus Christi; & 800/843-6664 or Fort Worth indulgence: cowboy lux- 361/887-1600): The two towers of ury. Outlaws on the run, cowpokes the Omni overlook Corpus Christi and their madames, and the C&W Bay, and the floor-to-ceiling windows elite have all propped up their boots of the 20-story Bayfront Tower offer here. Cowtown’s cattle-ranching and spectacular views of the Gulf, particu- railroad past are effortlessly evoked in larly from its upper floors. Pamper the rooms, each of which is different: yourself with a massage from the in- Tie your horse to the post (okay, park house massage therapist or relax in the the Taurus in the lot) and bunk in the whirlpool. Then have dinner in their Bonnie & Clyde, Geronimo, or Vic- Republic of Texas Bar & Grill. See torian Parlor room. See p. 124. p. 223. • Four Seasons Hotel Houston Cen- • Radisson Resort South Padre ter (Houston; & 800/332-3442 or Island (South Padre Island; & 800/ 713/650-1300): Lots of space to 333-3333 or 956/761-6511): From stretch out in and lots of service so the high-ceilinged lobby to the beau- you don’t have to stretch too far. This tiful landscaping around the swim- hotel surpasses all others in amenities ming pools, this Radisson spells and services. Within a few blocks are luxury. Many rooms have grand the baseball park, the new basketball views of the ocean, and everything is arena, a shopping mall, and the con- at your fingertips. See p. 243. vention center. A bit beyond that is • Omni La Mansión del Río (San the city’s theater district and nightlife Antonio; & 800/830-1400 or 210/ hub. See p. 164. 518-1000): Occupying what was • Hotel Derek (Houston; & 866/ once the local seminary, this hotel has 292-4100 or 713/961-3000): The kept the local feel of the building, most comfortable and most fun place with architectural features such as to stay in Houston’s highly popular beamed ceilings and stone balconies. 05_082980 ch01.qxp 5/9/07 11:57 PM Page 10

10 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF TEXAS La Mansión is not a high rise, and it • Four Seasons Austin (Austin; enjoys a wide frontage along the & 800/332-3442 or 512/478- River Walk. It is, in short, the best 4500): With panoramic views of the hotel for experiencing San Antonio. lake, the wonderful service that this See p. 258. chain is known for, and a spa that • Watermark Hotel & Spa (San Anto- consistently wins high praise, noth- nio; & 866/605-1212 or 210/396- ing is lacking here. Rooms are large 5800): If relaxation and pampering and comfortable and come with all are what you seek, the Watermark the amenities. Right outside the door should be your first choice in San is Austin’s popular hike-and-bike Antonio. From the moment you step trail, which rings the lake, and foot into the lobby, everything is Austin’s comfortable and fun down- taken care of effortlessly. The hotel town. See p. 302. has a great location on the River • Cibolo Creek Ranch (Shafter; Walk, but the rooms are so attractive & 432/229-3737): Tucked under and comfortable, the service so per- the Chinati Mountains in some of sonal, and the spa so easy to enjoy the most wide-open country in all of that you might never leave the prem- Texas, this is a getaway for the most ises. See p. 258. special of occasions, and accordingly • The Driskill (Austin; & 800/252- priced. The idyllic setting plays host 9367 or 512/474-5911): If you want today to a first-class resort, featuring to play cattle baron, you can’t do better picture-perfect guest rooms with red than stay in this opulent 1886 hotel, tile floors, adobe walls, and sumptu- restored to its former glory at the end ous border decor. The recreation is as of the 20th century. See p. 299. impressive as the scenery. See p. 363.

2 The Best Bed & Breakfasts & Boutique Hotels • Hôtel St. Germain (Dallas; & 214/ boutique hotel. With its cool lounge 871-2516): Ever wanted to stay with bar and mid-century modern decor, your spouse at a plush bordello? This it’s a dollop of Palm Springs with views intimate boutique hotel and elegant, of downtown Dallas. See p. 83. prix-fixe restaurant is about as close • The Ashton Hotel (Fort Worth; as you’ll come to that fantasy. A gor- & 866/327-4866 or 817/332-0100): geous mix of early-20th-century Just off Sundance Square, this new France and New Orleans, the seven boutique hotel—Fort Worth’s only suites are so swank, with such pam- small luxury hotel—offers plush pering features as wood-burning fire- rooms and smooth service, as well as places, draped Napoleon sleigh beds, one of the best restaurants in North bidets, and soaking tubs, that you Texas. It’s the new place to be in Cow- may not want to leave. But your town. See p. 126. budget may force you to. See p. 84. • Etta’s Place (Fort Worth; & 866/ • Belmont Hotel (Dallas; & 866/ 355-5760 or 817/255-5760): A cozy 870-8010 or 214/393-2000): Dallas and relaxing small hotel that feels like usually goes gaga over mirrored glass a B&B is just a heartbeat from Fort and brand-spanking-new buildings, so Worth’s charming nightlife, shops, it’s a refreshing change to find this vin- and restaurants of Sundance Square. tage 1940s motor lodge in Oak Cliff It bears the name of Etta Place, the transformed into a stylish, retro-styled handsome girlfriend of the Sundance 05_082980 ch01.qxp 5/9/07 11:57 PM Page 11

THE BEST HOTEL BARGAINS 11 Kid, who no doubt would approve of • Ogé House Inn on the River Walk the spacious, modern rooms with lots (San Antonio; & 800/242-2770 or of light and Texas touches. Kick back 210/223-2353): The King William in the clubby library and music area abounds with B&Bs, but the rooms. See p. 128. Ogé House stands out as much for its • La Colombe d’Or (Houston; professionalism as for its gorgeous & 713/524-7999): Have a four- mansion and lovely rooms. You don’t course French dinner served in your have to sacrifice service for warmth suite’s separate dining room. With here. See p. 261. such personal service and with only • Mansion at Judges Hill (Austin; five suites, there’s no way you’ll get & 800/311-1619 or 512/495-1800): lost in the shuffle. Occupying a man- A room in the original mansion evokes sion built for an oil tycoon in the the feel of a more relaxed and gracious 1920s, the hotel has uncommon era, especially the second-floor rooms architectural features, and is fur- which have a large and inviting porch, nished with antiques. Its location in tempting one to linger and enjoy the Houston’s Montrose District puts it view. The service, which is friendly squarely in the middle of the hippest and helpful, does everything to rein- part of town. See p. 168. force such a feeling. See p. 306. • George Blucher House Bed & • Villa del Rio Bed & Breakfast (Del Breakfast Inn (Corpus Christi; Rio; & 800/995-1887 or 830/768- & 866/884-4884 or 361/884-4884): 1100): A luxurious Mediterranean- This wonderful B&B combines the style villa—actually a mix of Italian ambience of an elegant historic and Mexican styles—built in 1887, home—it was built in 1904—with the Villa del Rio gets our vote for the modern amenities. Breakfasts are best place to stay in this area for any- served by candlelight; and you’re just one who appreciates old-world ambi- across the street from a prime bird- ence and pampering and an exciting watching area. See p. 223. breakfast. See p. 379.

3 The Best Hotel Bargains • The Bradford at Lincoln Park (Dal- and restaurants are thriving. But you las; & 888/486-7829 or 214/696- won’t have to pay through the nose to 1555): A new residential-style hotel stay near the famed grassy knoll and that primarily targets businesspeople, the original Neiman Marcus. This it’s also superb for other travelers and historic hotel has nice rooms and families. The nicely styled and spa- good services—in addition to its cov- cious suites have fully equipped eted location—for the cost of a road- kitchens, and there are a pool and side motel. See p. 84. small spa, exercise room, and business • Lovett Inn (Houston; & 800/ center, as well as free continental 779-5224 or 713/522-5224): This breakfast and local calls. See p. 89. B&B offers attractive, comfortable • The Hotel Lawrence (Dallas; rooms with private balconies for a low & 877/396-0334 or 214/761-9090): price. Add a pool and a central location Downtown used to be a wasteland that is handy but quiet, and you have a after dark, but now it’s become a cool winning combination. See p. 169. spot where a number of upscale hotels 05_082980 ch01.qxp 5/9/07 11:57 PM Page 12

12 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF TEXAS • Best Western Sunset Suites—River- funky styles, but the place retains walk (San Antonio; & 866/560- its 1950s character and its lower- 6000 or 210/223-4400): Low room than-1990s prices. See p. 305. rates, lots of free perks, and a conven- • Travelodge Hotel–La Hacienda Air- ient location near downtown—not to port (El Paso; & 800/772-4231 or mention superattractive rooms in a 915/772-4231): Some roadside motels historic structure—make staying here surprise you with their attention to a super deal. See p. 200. detail—this is definitely one of them. • Austin Motel (Austin; & 512/ We like the eight Jacuzzi rooms, featur- 441-1157): Look for the Austin’s ing picture windows that separate the classic neon sign in Austin’s hip SoCo tubs from the bedrooms, and the fam- area. The rooms have been individu- ily suites, amusingly decorated with ally furnished, many in fun and plenty of room. See p. 351.

4 The Best Restaurants • The French Room (Dallas; & 214/ • Café Ashton (Fort Worth; & 817/ 742-8200): This formal but thankfully 332-0100): The creative New Ameri- not intimidating restaurant in the his- can bistro fare at this swank restau- toric Adolphus Hotel is dreamy, like rant, in a boutique hotel of the same dining at Versailles. Indulge in superb description, quickly shot to the top of classic French cuisine and museum- everyone’s best-of lists in Fort Worth. quality wines surrounded by a rococo- Hotel dining is rarely this good or painted ceiling, flowing drapes, and this intimate. See what all the fuss is crystal chandeliers. See p. 90. about. See p. 132. • Stephan Pyles (Dallas; & 214/580- • Lanny’s Alta Cocina Mexicana (Fort 7000): The legendary West Texas Worth; & 817/850-9996): The chef, back after a long hiatus, has young great-grandson of the man upped the ante in dramatic fashion in behind Fort Worth’s longtime stan- his new, chic but still very Texan, dard for Tex-Mex, Joe T. Garcia’s, has eponymous restaurant in the Arts struck out on his own with this sen- District. Pyles, Esquire magazine’s sational fine-dining take on Mediter- Chef of the Year in 2006, says what ranean cooking with Mexican emanates from his massive kitchen is sensibilities. Sophisticated but “new millennium Southwestern cui- unfussy, it’s the place to dine in sine.” The man behind Star Canyon downtown Fort Worth. See p. 134. has taken Big D by storm once again. • Mark’s (Houston; & 713/523-3800): See p. 91. No fussy French nouvelle here, and no • Javier’s Gourmet Mexicano (Dallas; boring steak and potatoes either. & 214/521-4211): The owners and Mark’s manages to serve up dishes that devotees of this gourmet Mexico City can satisfy at some deep subconscious restaurant will gently inform you that, level while they fulfill our eternal quest no, this isn’t Tex-Mex. Javier’s serves for something new. This is New Ameri- deliciously prepared grilled fish and can cooking as it should be performed. meat dishes and mesquite-smoked See p. 178. chicken in a Spanish colonial setting. • Cafe Annie (Houston; & 713/840- Come for a top-shelf margarita at the 1111): No other restaurant in Hous- clubby bar, but I guarantee you’ll stay ton garners quite the attention that for dinner. See p. 94. this place does from both food critics 05_082980 ch01.qxp 5/9/07 11:57 PM Page 13

THE BEST TEXAN DINING 13

and the public alike. With its innova- • Café Central (El Paso; & 915/ tive Southwestern cooking, the best 545-2233): Well worth the splurge, wine list in the city, and a master Café Central is a sleek urban bistro sommelier (the only “master” in serving sophisticated international Texas), the restaurant has its creden- cuisine. The menu changes daily, but tials. Chef/owner Robert Del Grande always offers a wide range of standout offers up wonderful dishes that show fare—most notably creative South- just how fertile the crossbreeding of western interpretations of traditional Mexican and American cooking can Continental dishes. The wine list is be. See p. 183. one of the city’s best, with nearly 300 • Le Rêve (San Antonio; & 210/212- bottles, and desserts include the best 2221): Regularly designated the best leches (Mexican milk cakes) in all of restaurant in Texas, Le Rêve never Texas. See p. 352. disappoints. Owner/chef Andrew • Ocotillo (Lajitas; & 432/424- Weissman is exacting in the practice 5000): For our money, this is the best of his craft and produces a dining restaurant on the entire Texas-Mexico experience that is close to being border. Ocotillo specializes in wild other-worldly. See p. 266. game with Mexican-inspired sauces; • Uchi (Austin; & 512/916-4808): the interplay between the two is a Don’t think of this restaurant as just a revelation. Executive Chef Blas Gon- good place for sushi and Japanese cui- zales brought 20 years of experience sine. It’s a great restaurant, period, from Austin. Everything is fresh: with creative cooking that transcends Seafood is flown in daily from both its humble roots. The setting, in a coasts, and many ingredients are beautifully revamped 1930s house, is grown in a terrace garden on-site. See transcendent, too. See p. 311. p. 397.

5 The Best Texan Dining • Sonny Bryan’s Smokehouse (Dallas; wet-aged prime beef and sirloin & 214/357-7120): Sonny Bryan’s filets, this is a place for the J. R. has been turning out sweet barbecue crowd. Even the accompaniments— since 1910, and the little smoke “smashed” potatoes and honey-glazed shack out on Inwood has acquired whole carrots—are terrific. And the legendary status. Salesmen perch on meat-shy need not fear: The chop- their car hoods with their sleeves house salad is a meal in itself. Cigar rolled up and wolf down hickory- aficionados should keep their noses smoked brisket, sliced-beef sand- trained for Bob’s cigar dinners: Every wiches, and succulent onion rings. course is served with a different cigar. Thinner sorts squeeze into tiny one- See p. 93. armed school desks and get ready to • Lonesome Dove Western Bistro douse their brisket with superb, tangy (Fort Worth; & 817/740-8810): sauce. A classic. See p. 98. The work of a daring young couple, • Bob’s Steak & Chop House (Dallas; this friendly and eclectic restaurant & 214/528-9446): Bob’s will satisfy challenges Cowtown to broaden its the steak connoisseur—the real horizons. The Southwestern menu at Texan—in you. With a clubby but this Stockyards eatery successfully relaxed mahogany look and behemoth stretches the popular theme in new 05_082980 ch01.qxp 5/9/07 11:57 PM Page 14

14 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF TEXAS ways, adding unique Texas touches dish or two. In this case, it’s deep- that are both avant-garde and com- fried avocadoes. No place but Texas, forting. Pop in for the cheap Stock- baby! See p. 224. yards lunch special or dive into a • La Playa (Port Aransas; & 361/ blowout dinner. See p. 131. 749-0022): This place is in no way • Angelo’s (Fort Worth; & 817/ connected to La Playa of Corpus 332-0357): Fort Worth’s classic Texas Christi. But the cooking is just as barbecue joint is as unpretentious as local and does a great job with Tex- they come: Its wood paneling, Mex style seafood dishes such as mounted deer and buffalo heads, campechana cocktails and fish tacos. metal ceiling fans, and Formica tables The margaritas transcend cultures, might have come from a Jaycees but La Playa’s got that hominess and lodge. That’s kitschy cool to some, welcoming feel that is as much Texas meaningless to everyone else. What is as anything else. See p. 233. important is the fantastic hickory- • Mi Tierra (San Antonio; & 210/ smoked barbecue. See p. 135. 225-1262): Some people dismiss this • Loma Linda (Houston; & 713/ cafe as touristy. Not so. It is the practi- 924-6074): Bursting the bubble of a tioner of old San Antonio cooking tra- perfectly puffed tortilla smothered in ditions. Order any of the Tex-Mex chile con queso is the moment where specialties and sit back and enjoy the anticipation meets realization in the ambience—both the food and the Tex-Mex experience. The aroma, the decor are expressions of local tastes texture, the taste . . . words fail me. when celebrating is called for. And trav- You can scour the borderlands a long elers need no excuse to celebrate once time before coming up with an old- they’ve hit upon this gem. See p. 268. fashioned Tex-Mex joint like this one. • Shady Grove (Austin; & 512/ The restaurant even has its own spe- 474-9991): This is the most quintes- cial tortilla maker for producing these sentially Austin restaurant in town. It puffed-up beauties. Also of note are offers a laid-back Texan menu, a huge the perfectly seasoned classic Tex- outdoor patio, and an “unplugged” Mex enchiladas with chili gravy. See music series. See p. 313. p. 176. • L&J Café (El Paso; & 915/566- • Gaidos (Galveston; & 409/762- 8418): An El Paso landmark since it 9625): Offering traditional cooking opened its doors in 1927, the L&J is as it is practiced on the Texas Gulf both inexpensive and offers some of Coast, Gaidos is the keeper of the the best Tex-Mex food you’ll find flame for lovers of seafood that steers anywhere. The chicken enchiladas, clear of fads and trends. The family overflowing with fluffy meat and has been serving up stuffed snapper, buried under chunky green chile and gumbo, and fried oysters for four Jack cheese, approach perfection. It generations. See p. 212. doesn’t hurt that the salsa is spicy, the • La Playa (Corpus Christi; & 361/ beer is cold, and the service is quick 980-3909): For a Tex-Mex restaurant and friendly, even when the place is to be considered truly great, it must, filled to capacity—as it is most of the of course, do a good job with the tra- time. See p. 353. ditional enchiladas in chili gravy, • Starlight Theatre (Terlingua; & 432/ have excellent fajitas, and pay atten- 371-2326): A 1930s movie palace tion to the details in cooking the rice abandoned when the mines in Terlin- and beans. It helps if it has a signature gua went bust in the following decade, 05_082980 ch01.qxp 5/9/07 11:57 PM Page 15

THE BEST MUSEUMS 15 the Starlight Theatre was reborn as filet mignon, and sautéed chicken), an eatery and watering hole in 1991. drink (namely Texas beers and The stage is still here, but the silver prickly pear margaritas), and desserts screen takes a backseat to the food (the cobbler for two is legendary). (especially the trademark enchiladas, See p. 396.

6 The Best Lone Star Experiences • Hopping Aboard the Grapevine a stretch of the Guadalupe River that Vintage Railroad: The Old West Texans love to float down “leisurely comes alive aboard the Tarantula like” in tubes (one tube per person and Railroad. A nostalgic train (when one for the ice chest). During the late running, a restored 1896 steam loco- spring and early summer the air is hot, motive called Puffy) rumbles along the water is cold, and the “tuber” the track from Stockyards Station in (tube-potato?) finds life most agree- Fort Worth, tracing the route of the able. There is no shortage of outfitters Chisholm Trail, to the Cotton Belt who can set you up with a tube and Depot in historic Grapevine, Texas, a put you in the water. See p. 336. town with 75 restored turn-of-the- • Explore Tejas/Cross the Border: 20th-century buildings. See p. 140. There are nearly 800 miles of Texas- • Lassoing the Fort Worth Stock Mexico border, and the Rio Grande Show and Rodeo: Fort Worth ain’t from the Gulf of Mexico to El Paso is called Cowtown for nothing. In late a fascinating region. We are big fans January and early February, the of Ciudad Acuña, across the river Southwestern Exposition and Live- from Del Rio, and the amazing stock Show, as it’s officially called, canyons in Big Bend National Park, recalls the glory cowboy days with but the entire “borderlands” region is horse shows, auctions, and all sorts of more attractive and diverse than most livestock, from beef cattle to llamas visitors realize. See chapters 9 and 10. and swine. The nightly rodeos are big • Exploring Big Bend National Park: draws. See “Fort Worth” in chapter 4. Vast and wild, this rugged terrain • Attending a Mariachi Mass at Mis- harbors thousands of species of plants sion San José: The Alamo may be and animals—some seen practically more famous, but hearing a congre- nowhere else on earth. A visit can gation of San Antonians raise their include a hike into the sun-baked voices in spirited prayer reminds you desert, a float down a majestic river that the city’s Spanish missions aren’t through the canyons, or a trek among just, well, history. See p. 276. high mountains where bears and • Tubing on the River: In central Texas, mountain lions rule. See “Big Bend upstream from the town of Gruene, is National Park” in chapter 10.

7 The Best Museums • The Nasher Sculpture Center (Dal- called the finest private collection in las): This world-class collection of the world (it includes superlative modern sculpture recently debuted in works by Miró, David Smith, Bran- the downtown Dallas Arts District. cusi, Moore, Giacometti, Picasso, Ray Nasher and his wife Patsy spent 4 Matisse, Calder, and many more). decades assembling what has been Designed by Renzo Piano, it has a 05_082980 ch01.qxp 5/9/07 11:57 PM Page 16

16 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF TEXAS gorgeous open-air sculpture garden of works by Frederic Remington and with landscape design by Peter Charles M. Russell, two behemoths Walker. See p. 102. of Western art. It also possesses a • Meadows Museum of Art (Dallas): great photography collection and Now in a new building with more important paintings by Georgia room to show off the greatest collec- O’Keeffe and others. See p. 140. tion of Spanish masters outside Spain, • Menil Collection (Houston): One the Meadows was built by a Dallas of the great private collections of the oilman fascinated by Spanish art. The world, it could very well have ended museum proudly displays a wealth of up in Paris or New York, but was works by Velázquez, Goya, Ribera, graciously bestowed by the collectors Murillo, Zurbarán—just about all the on their adopted city. To experience biggies from Spain’s golden era as well the Menil is pure delight; very little as the 20th-century masters Picasso, comes between the viewer and the Dalí, and Miró. See p. 106. art, which includes works by many • Kimbell Art Museum (Fort Worth): of the 20th-century masters, classi- Probably the country’s finest small cal works from the ancients, and museum, this masterwork by Louis tribal art from around the world. See Kahn is a joyous celebration of archi- p. 190. tecture and a splendid collection of • Museum of Fine Arts, Houston art to boot. Kahn’s graceful building, (Houston): With the addition of the a wonder of technology and natural Audrey Jones Beck Building, the Fine light, is now a chapter in architectural Arts museum has doubled its exhibi- studies worldwide. The small perma- tion space and has especially put its nent collection ranges from prehis- collection of Impressionist and toric Asian and pre-Columbian baroque art in the best possible light. pieces to European old masters, The museum also has several satellite Impressionists, and modern geniuses. facilities and attracts major touring The Kimbell also gets some of the exhibitions. See p. 188. world’s most important traveling • The Center for the Arts & Sciences shows. See p. 142. (Brazosport): One of those rare enti- • Modern Art Museum of Fort Worth ties that does a lot of things excep- (Fort Worth): In a spanking new mod- tionally well, The Center includes a ernist building designed by the Japan- terrific natural history museum, a ese architect Tadao Ando, the new delightful small planetarium, an Modern—actually the oldest art attractive art gallery, two theaters for museum in Texas—is now the nation’s a variety of performing arts events, second largest dedicated to contempo- and a nature trail. See p. 214. rary and modern art. The permanent • San Antonio Museum of Art (San collection includes works by Picasso, Antonio): Almost as impressive for its Rothko, Warhol, Rauschenberg, and architecture as for its holdings, this Pollock. See p. 142. museum combines several castlelike • Amon Carter Museum of Western buildings of the 1904 Lone Star Art (Fort Worth): The newly Brewery. The $11-million Nelson A. expanded Amon Carter Museum is Rockefeller Center for Latin Ameri- one of the finest collections of West- can Art is the most comprehensive ern and American art in the country, collection of its kind in the United including the most complete group States. See p. 275. 05_082980 ch01.qxp 5/9/07 11:57 PM Page 17

THE BEST SHOPPING 17 • Marion Koogler McNay Art Mu- objects and constellations through seum (San Antonio): A beautiful collec- the observatory’s high-powered tele- tion beautifully located and beautifully scopes. See p. 359. displayed. This small museum is a • Panhandle-Plains Historical delight to visit for everyone, but espe- Museum (Canyon): The largest his- cially for fans of modern art, who will tory museum in Texas, this excellent devour its collection of works by the museum is anything but a dusty modern masters. See p. 275. collection of spurs and bits. Well • McDonald Observatory (northwest thought out, engaging, and informa- of Fort Davis): McDonald Observa- tive, it is largely hands-on—you can tory is considered one the world’s sit in a Ford Mustang and listen to best astronomical research facilities, Buddy Holly tunes or try out a and twice a day visitors can glimpse sidesaddle. There are also compre- sunspots, flares, and other solar hensive exhibits on the region’s his- activity. Additionally, nighttime “Star tory in terms of petroleum, art, Parties” are held 3 evenings a week, transportation, Western heritage, and when visitors can view celestial paleontology/geology. See p. 425.

8 The Best Shopping • Neiman Marcus (Dallas): Estab- yokes that would have made you a lished in 1907, Neiman Marcus is star in the Old West, plus cowboy intimately identified with Big D and boots and other Western parapherna- its shopaholics. The luxury purveyor’s lia—just steps away from the old annual holiday catalog, with his-and- Stockyards livestock pens. Right on her fantasies for the rich, has become the main drag is Maverick, which has an institution. The downtown store is upscale Western wear and a bar serv- classy and retro-cool, the best place in ing up Lone Star longnecks. M. L. North Texas to drape yourself in Leddy’s is a longtime family-owned Prada and Chanel. See p. 112. shop with a big boot sign out front • NorthPark Center (Dallas): Dallas and top-quality hats, hand-tooled loves to shop, and while there are belts, and custom-made boots. And more malls than most people (except just down the street, plunk down the Dallasites) know what to do with, cash for exquisite custom cowboy NorthPark is the most traditional and boots at Ponder Boot Company. See elegant (even with its recent expansion “Fort Worth” in chapter 4. that doubled its size); it also has a • Uptown (Houston): In this one, rela- graceful layout that outclasses its more tively small district of the city you garish competitors. Besides top anchor can find Houston’s Galleria (with stores (Neiman Marcus, Tiffany’s), it over 300 retailers including Saks, enjoys rotating pieces from owner Neiman Marcus, Tiffany’s, and Ver- Ray Nasher’s spectacular collection of sace) and four other malls fronting modern sculpture, on display through- Post Oak (including such retailers as out the mall. See “p. 113. Cartier and FAO Schwarz). See • Stockyards National Historic Dis- “Shopping” in chapter 5. trict (Fort Worth): In Cowtown, • Paris Hatters (San Antonio): Pope looking the part is important. Pick John Paul II, Prince Charles, Jimmy up Western duds—suits and shirts Smits, and Dwight Yoakam have all with elegant piping and embroidered had Western headgear made for them 05_082980 ch01.qxp 5/9/07 11:57 PM Page 18

18 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF TEXAS by Paris Hatters, in business since • Fredericksburg (Texas Hill Coun- 1917 and still owned by the same try): It’s hard to say how a town family. About half of the sales are spe- founded by German idealists ended cial order, but the shelves are stocked up being a magnet for Texas material- with high-quality ready-to-wear hats, ists, but Fredericksburg’s main street too. See p. 283. is chock-a-block with boutiques. This • Capitol Saddlery (Austin): The cus- is the place to come for everything tom-made boots of this classic three- from natural chocolate mint–scented level Western store near the capitol, room deodorizer to handmade dul- run by the same family for 7 cimers. See p. 332. decades, were immortalized in a • El Paso Chile Company (El Paso): song by Jerry Jeff Walker. Come here We love this shop for its tongue-sear- for hand-tooled saddles, belts, tack, ing delicacies, with fiery names such and altogether unyuppified cowboy as “Hellfire & Damnation,” and all gear. See p. 328. things spicy. See p. 350.

9 The Best Places for Boot-Scootin’ • Adair’s Saloon (Dallas): Deep you go for the music and the dancing Ellum’s down-’n’-dirty honky-tonk is and not for dressing up in Western unfazed by the new wave discos, rock duds. It’s strictly come as you are, and clubs, and preppy SMU students in this place attracts ’em from all walks of its midst. It sticks to its down-to- life, from bankers to oil field workers. earth antistyle, knee-slapping country It’s a small venue, but gets some of and redneck rock bands, cheap beer, the best of Texas’s country music and tables and walls blanketed in bands. See p. 199. graffiti. See p. 116. • Floore’s Country Store (San Anto- • Gilley’s Dallas (Dallas): Gilley’s is nio): Not much has changed since where John Travolta rode a bucking the 1940s when this honky-tonk, bronco in Urban Cowboy, and now boasting the largest dance floor in Big D has a branch of the famous South Texas (half an acre), opened Houston honky-tonk. If bigger is up. Boots, hats, and antique farm better, this one’s right up there with equipment hang from the ceiling of the best of them: It’s got 90,000 this typical Texas roadhouse. There’s square feet of dance floor, bars, and always live music on weekends; stages. See p. 116. Willie Nelson, Dwight Yoakam, • Billy Bob’s Texas (Fort Worth): Kind Robert Earl Keen, and Lyle Lovett of like a big-tent country theme park, have all played here. See p. 285. Billy Bob’s has it all: 40 bars, a huge • Texas Hill Country (San Antonio dance floor for two-stepping, pro bull and Austin): The Texas Hill Country riding, and live performances by has some of the best honky-tonks in some of the biggest names in country the state. In Gruene, just outside of music. And of course dance lessons: New Braunfels, Gruene Hall is the Shuffle and two-step like a Texan oldest country-and-western dance after a few hours with instructor hall in Texas and still one of the mel- Wendell Nelson. See p. 149. lowest places to listen to music. Don’t • Blanco’s (Houston): This is one of miss Arkey Blue & The Silver Dol- those genuine honky-tonks where lar Bar, a genuine spit-and-sawdust 05_082980 ch01.qxp 5/9/07 11:57 PM Page 19

THE BEST OF NATURAL TEXAS 19

cowboy honky-tonk on the Main • Broken Spoke (Austin): This is the Street of Bandera. When there’s no gen-u-ine item, a Western honky-tonk live music, plug a quarter in the old with a wood-plank floor and a cow- jukebox and play a country ballad by boy-hatted, two-steppin’ crowd. Still, owner Arkey. And look for the table it’s in Austin, so don’t be surprised if where Hank Williams, Sr., carved his the band wears Hawaiian shirts, or if name. See “Hill Country Side Trips” tongues are planted firmly in cheeks in chapters 7 and 8. for some of the songs. See p. 330.

10 The Best of Natural Texas • Dallas Arboretum & Botanical home to a variety of frogs and other Garden: Who knew Dallas had more amphibians, plus snakes, turtles, than dust, concrete, steel, and glass? lizards, and numerous mammals. But This surprising oasis on the edge of Aransas has become famous for being White Rock Lake is a great spot to the main winter home of the near- duck the Texas sun. Relax on 70 acres extinct whooping crane, the tallest of groomed gardens and natural bird in America—5 feet high with an woodlands, interspersed with a hand- 8-foot wingspan. See “Rockport” in ful of historic homes. The gardens are chapter 6. especially colorful in spring and fall. • Mustang Island State Park: This See p. 104. barrier island has more than 5 miles • Fort Worth Botanic & Japanese of wide, sandy beach, with fine sand, Gardens: A rambling, spacious show- few rocks, and broken shells, and case of 2,500 native and exotic almost enough waves for surfing. The species of plants on 100-plus acres, park is one of the most popular of this is the oldest botanical garden in Texas state parks, and is especially Texas, created back in the late 1920s. busy on summer weekends. See “Port The Texas Rose Garden, 3,500 roses Aransas” in chapter 6. that bloom in late April and October, • Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Cen- and beautiful Japanese Garden are ter: Few people remember that it was terrific places to hide out from the Lady Bird Johnson who started a pro- world. Bring a picnic, a book, and a gram to beautify America’s high- flying disk. See p. 141. ways—and that she began practicing it • Big Thicket National Preserve: It in her home state. This flower-pow- has been called “the American Ark” ered research center is a natural out- for its incredibly rich variety of plants growth of this first lady’s lifelong and wildlife, all packed into 100,000 efforts to beautify the state. See p. 320. acres of watery bottomland in deep- • McKittrick Canyon: The canyon is est East Texas. You can explore the forested with conifers and deciduous area on foot or in canoe, and see first- trees. In autumn, the maples, oaks, hand how the woods grow so thickly and other hardwoods burst into here that they all but blot out the color, painting the world in bright sun, and make trailblazing almost colors set off by the rich variety of the impossible. See “Side Trips to East evergreens. See “Guadalupe Moun- Texas” in chapter 5. tains National Park” in chapter 10. • Aransas National Wildlife Refuge: • Palo Duro Canyon State Park: This A mecca for birders, with some 300 60-mile canyon, sculpted by the species sighted here, the refuge is also Prairie Dog Town Fork of the Red 05_082980 ch01.qxp 5/9/07 11:57 PM Page 20

20 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF TEXAS River over the last 90 million years, is adorned by groves of juniper and cot- a grand contrast to the ubiquitous, tonwood trees, present an astound- treeless plains of the Texas Panhandle. ingly stark beauty. See “Canyon & Its 800-foot cliffs, striped with Palo Duro Canyon State Park” in orange, red, and white rock and chapter 11.

11 The Best Historical Attractions • The Sixth Floor Museum at Dealey • San Jacinto Monument (Houston): Plaza (Dallas): The events of Novem- Here on the battlefield of San Jacinto, ber 22, 1963, shook the world. John a small army of Texans led by General F. Kennedy’s assassination in Dallas is Sam Houston charged the much remembered by everyone old enough larger, better equipped Mexican army to remember, and argued over still. and dealt them a crushing blow. The Visitors can tour the sixth floor of the victory gave Texas its independence. A Texas School Book Depository, from monument and museum occupy the where the Warren Commission con- battlefield to honor and explain the cluded that a single sniper, Lee Har- history of the battle and its signifi- vey Oswald, felled the president. The cance. See p. 185. museum also examines the life, times, • USS Lexington Museum on the Bay and legacy of the Kennedy presi- (Corpus Christi): Exploring this huge dency, making it a place to revisit not World War II–era aircraft carrier offers only the tragic episode but also an non-naval persons the opportunity to era. See p. 100. get an idea of what it was like to live for • The Stockyards National Historic sometimes months in the claustropho- District (Fort Worth): Still very bic conditions of such a limited area. In much looking the part, this area addition to sleeping, dining, and cook- north of downtown was once the ing areas, the ship provided a hospital, biggest and busiest cattle, horse, rec room, and, of course, numerous mule, hog, and sheep marketing cen- necessary working areas. See p. 221. ter in the Southwest. Put on your • The Alamo (San Antonio): It’s boots and best Western shirt and tour smaller than you might expect, and it the Livestock Exchange Building; sits smack in the heart of downtown Cowtown Coliseum (the world’s first San Antonio, but the graceful mis- indoor rodeo arena); former hog and sion church that’s come to symbolize sheep pens now filled with Western the state is a must-see, if only to learn shops and restaurants; and Billy Bob’s what the fuss is all about. See p. 273. Texas, the “world’s largest honky- • San Antonio Missions National tonk.” Then grab a longneck at the Historical Park: It’s impossible not White Elephant saloon—the oldest to remember the Alamo when you’re bar in Fort Worth and the site of the in San Antonio; more difficult to city’s most famous gunfight in recall is that the Alamo was originally 1897—and check in at the historic just the first of five missions estab- Stockyards Hotel. To enhance the lished by the Franciscans along the experience, check out the “longhorn San Antonio River. Exploring these cattle drive” that rumbles down four missions, built uncharacteristi- Exchange Avenue daily—or take the cally close to each other, will give you Vintage Train into Grapevine. See a glimpse of the city’s early Spanish “Fort Worth” in chapter 4. and Indian history. See p. 276. 05_082980 ch01.qxp 5/9/07 11:57 PM Page 21

THE BEST FAMILY ADVENTURES 21 • State Capitol (Austin): The country’s Country Side Trips from Austin” in largest state capitol, second only in chapter 8. size to the U.S. Capitol—but 7 feet • El Paso Mission Trail: Established in taller—underwent a massive renova- the 17th and 18th centuries, these tion and expansion in the 1990s, three historic Spanish missions pro- which left it more impressive than vide a link to El Paso’s colonial past. ever. See p. 319. They are among the oldest continu- • New Braunfels: Trying to decide ally active missions in the country, which of the Hill Country towns is and warrant a visit for their architec- the most representative of the area’s tural and historic merit. Especially rich German heritage is tough, but impressive is the large Presidio the gemütlich inns, history-oriented Chapel San Elceario, near the site of museums, and sausage-rich restau- “The First Thanksgiving,” said to rants—not to mention the major cel- have taken place in 1598, 23 years ebration of Oktoberfest—make New before the Plymouth Thanksgiving. Braunfels a standout. See “Hill See p. 344.

12 The Best Family Adventures • Old City Park (Dallas): Dallas is theater, planetarium, and a bunch determinedly modern, with gleaming of great hands-on science displays, skyscrapers and a love for newness, but including life-size Lone Star dinosaurs. its Western heritage lives on museum- The National Cowgirl Museum and like in this facsimile of the Old West, Hall of Fame teaches little cowgirls a 13-acre park of historic buildings. and cowboys about pioneering women Mounted like a late-19th-century vil- of the American West, but in a way lage, it has a redbrick Main Street, Vic- that really brings the culture to life: torian homes, train depot, general Jukeboxes pump out country tunes, store, one-room church, schoolhouse, and kids can ride a simulated bucking and bank, all relocated from the Dal- bronco, see the film of their adventure las area. The “Living Farmstead” re- on the museum’s website, and get their creates a 19th-century prairie with pictures superimposed on Old West actors in period garb. See p. 106. film posters. And don’t forget the • The Stockyards (Fort Worth): Far Fort Worth Zoo, one of the best in from a dry old historic district, the the country. See “Fort Worth” in chap- Stockyards come alive with the flavor ter 4. of the Old West. Kids will adore the • Arlington: Sandwiched between Dal- twice-daily “cattle drive” of the Fort las and Fort Worth is a kids’ suburban Worth Herd, which rumbles down the dream world, where youngins can cobbled main drag, led by cowhands stumble from the roller coasters at Six in 19th-century duds. They’ll also love Flags Over Texas to the water slides at to find their way around the Cow- Hurricane Harbor, followed by a visit town Cattlepen Maze, a human maze to Ripley’s Believe It or Not and The made to look like old cattle pens. See Palace of Wax, topped off by paying “Fort Worth” in chapter 4. their respects to baseball’s greats at • Fort Worth’s Children’s Museums the Legends of the Game Baseball (Fort Worth): The Fort Worth Mu- Museum at The Ballpark in Arling- seum of Science and History is large ton. See “Arlington” in chapter 4. and multifaceted, with a domed IMAX 05_082980 ch01.qxp 5/9/07 11:57 PM Page 22

22 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF TEXAS • Space Center Houston (Houston): • The Austin Bats: The majority of Always the most popular attraction in adults and kids alike tend to finds the city, NASA’s Space Center Houston bats a bit creepy—until they learn is a joint effort powered by NASA tech- more about them, that is. From nology and Disney know-how. It is the March to November, you can watch epitome of interactive display and thousands of bats emerge in smoky simulation that manages to fascinate clouds from under the Congress both kids and parents. During your Avenue Bridge, and find out why visit, you can check out what’s going on Austinites adore the little critters. See at the Johnson Space Center through a “Seeing the Sights” in chapter 8. tram ride and video feeds. See p. 187. • Balmorhea State Park: This is one of • The Gulf Side of South Padre the crown jewels of the Texas state Island: Fine white sand and warm parks and also one of the smallest, at water lapping at your toes—what 45 acres. The main attraction is the 3 more do you want? Although the massive, 1 ⁄4-acre swimming pool— shore is lined with hotels and condos, 3.5 million gallons of water at a fairly the beaches are public and open to constant 74°F (23°C). Not your everyone. See “Padre Island National usual swimming pool, it’s teeming Seashore” in chapter 6. with small fish and laden with rocks. • Six Flags Fiesta Texas (San Anto- But swimming, snorkeling, and scuba nio): Major thrill rides, a huge swim- diving are all popular. There’s also a ming pool shaped like Texas, and reconstructed cienega (desert wet- entertainment/food areas with Texas land) where you might spot native history themes—there’s something wildlife such as a Texas spiny soft- for every family member at this shell turtle, a blotched water snake, theme park, and it’s even slightly edu- or a green heron. See “Small Towns of cational. See p. 277. Central West Texas” in chapter 9.

13 The Best of Texas Online • The Handbook of Texas Online easily printable discount coupons, (www.tsha.utexas.edu/handbook/ primarily for lodging and attractions. online): The Handbook is an encyclo- • Texas Outside (www.texasoutside. pedia offering concise entries that com): This is a great resource for plan- explain who’s who, what’s what, and ning outdoor activities for just about where’s where in Texas. It’s easy to use anywhere in the state. It breaks Texas and has information on just about down into different regions and has everything, from the locations of towns separate pages for Texas’s largest cities. and counties to explanations of some You’ll find maps and information on of the state’s legends, to biographical all sorts of outdoor sports, such as data on the many characters who left hiking, hunting, fishing, biking, and their mark on Texas history. canoeing. • Texas Department of Transporta- • Dallas–Fort Worth Area Official tion (www.traveltex.com): The state’s Visitors’ Website (www.visitdallas- official tourism website is practically fortworth.com): For purely practical the only site you’ll need to type in— matters, this frighteningly bureau- everything else will be a link. We cratic-sounding address gives you the especially like the section that offers lowdown on area events and even 05_082980 ch01.qxp 5/9/07 11:57 PM Page 23

THE BEST OF TEXAS ONLINE 23 allows you to download coupons • Austin 360 (www.austin360.com): good for saving a few bucks at mu- Movie times, traffic reports, restau- seums, theme parks, and other local rant picks, homes, jobs, cars. . . . This attractions. site, sponsored in part by the Austin- • Guidelive.com: The entertainment American Statesman, the city’s main Web page of the Dallas Morning newspaper, is a one-stop clicking cen- News, North Texas’s major news- ter for a variety of essentials. It’s easy paper, contains the most current to navigate, too. events listings, as well as restaurant, • Texas fun: We all know the Internet’s movie, music, and show reviews for best for purely personal and marginal both Dallas and Fort Worth. It even interests, so check out these sites once has a shopping blog that promises you’re done with your trip planning. the inside guide to the best local Visit www.texascooking.com for finds and deals. authentic Texas cooking, including • MySanAntonio.com: The website recipes and discussions of mysteries of the city’s only mainstream news- such as the Texas fruitcake subculture paper, the San Antonio Express-News, conspiracy. Then there’s www.texas not only provides the daily news, cooking.com/notable.htm: Which but also links to local businesses is the best three in a row? Morgan such as dry cleaners and florists (via Fairchild, Farrah Fawcett, and its Power Pages) and to movie, Freddy Fender, or George “Spanky” nightlife, and dining listings and McFarland of “Our Gang,” Larry reviews. McMurtry, and Meat Loaf?