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Etappe 22: Ring of Beara Bantry – Glengarriff – Adrigole – Castletown Berehaven – Allihies – Ardgroom – Lauragh – Kenmare (128 Km)

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Etappe 22: Ring of Beara Bantry – Glengarriff – Adrigole – Castletown Berehaven – Allihies – Ardgroom – Lauragh – Kenmare (128 Km) Etappe 22: Ring of Beara Bantry – Glengarriff – Adrigole – Castletown Berehaven – Allihies – Ardgroom – Lauragh – Kenmare (128 km) Eine Rundtour um die Beara-Halbinsel, mit der im zweiten Teil der Wechsel vom County Cork zur Grafschaft Kerry erfolgt. Kartenskizze Etappe 22 Aus Bantry heraus führt die Strecke über die N71 (T65) an der Küste entlang bis Glengarriff; die Szenerie ist bei Glengarriff und später bis Adrigole sehr rauh, und insgesamt ist der Ring of Beara imposanter, unbekannter und anstrengender als der berühmte Ring of Kerry. Glengarriff, gäl. Gleann Garbh, 300 Einw., Co. Cork, ist ein Dorf, in dem im Sommer mehr Touristen als Einheimische anzutreffen sind. Es liegt an einer geschützten Seitenbucht der Bantry Bay und ist klimatisch dermaßen begün- stigt, daß es als mildester Ort Irlands im Winter gilt. Die deshalb üppig wach- sende Vegetation bietet einen Vorgeschmack auf die erstaunlichen Rhodo- dendron- und Fuchsienhaine, die die Grafschaft Kerry auszeichnen. Ein weite- rer Vorgeschmack auf die Tourismuszentren Kerrys erfolgt durch die Bootsleu- te, die arglose Besucher zu einem Trip nach Garinish Island überreden wollen. 1 Diese kleine Insel vor Glengarriff beherbergt einen der schönsten künstlich an- gelegten Gärten Irlands. Aber Achtung: der auszuhandelnde Bootspreis enthält noch nicht die Eintrittsgebühr! März-Oktober fahren auch zwei offizielle Fähren alle 20 Minuten hinüber. Information: Tourist Office, (027) 63084, Juli/Aug. Verkehrsverbindungen: Busse nach Cork und Killarney. Herberge: Murphy’s Village Hostel (IHH), / (027) 63555, 33 B., ganzj.; Glengarriff Hostel (IHI), Kenmare Road, (027) 63211, 20 B., ganzj., beim Hafen rechts halten; Hummingbird Rest (IHI), Kenmare Road, (027) 63195, 13 B., ganzj.; Pat Somer’s Cottage Bar (IHI), (027) 63331, 63532, 12 B., ganzj. Camping: O’Shea’s **, (027) 63140, 25 Zstpl., Mitte März-Mitte Okt; Dowling’s ***, (027) 63154, 45 Zstpl., Ostern März-Okt; beide ca. 2 km westlich von Glengarriff an der R572 (L67). Fahrradvermietung: Michael Burniston, Jem Creations Craft Workshop, Ladybird House, (027) 63113, 63547. In Glengarriff beginnt die Rundstrecke um die Beara-Halbinsel. Sie führt auf der R572 (L61) nach Adrigole (Hostel mit Camping s..u.), wo der lange und win- dungsreiche Aufstieg zum Healy-Paß (10 % Steigung) möglich ist. Sparen Sie sich die Schweißtropfen für später auf und radeln Sie weiter westwärts nach Castletownbere. Castletownbere, auch Castletown Berehaven genannt, 900 Einw., Co. Cork, bis 1936 der Standort der englischen Atlantikflotte, ist heute einer der bedeu- tendsten irischen Fischereihäfen. Mit einer ganzjährig bis zu viermal täglich verkehrenden Fähre kann man auf die vorgelagerte Bere Island übersetzen, Auskunft unter (027) 75004. Etwa 3 km weiter westlich liegt abseits der Straße auf einer Insel die Ruine von Dunboy Castle (16. Jh.), der letzten Burg, die vor den elisabethanischen Trup- pen kapitulierte. Eine zweite – gleichnamige – viktorianische Ruine neueren Datums direkt an der Straße zieht eher Besucher an. Herberge: Beara Hostel (IHI), Heathmount, (027) 70184, 16 B., Camping., ganzj., ca. 2 km westlich des Ortes, beschildert; Adrigole Hostel (IHI); / (027) 60228, 10 B., Camping, ganzj. Camping: Berehaven Camping & Amenity Park **, (027) 70700, 12 Zstpl., ganzj. Fahrräder: Dermot Murphy (auch Verm.), Super Valu Lebensmittelmarkt, (027) 70020, nach 19 h 70248, 70520. Die R572 (L61) führt weiter nach Cahermore und biegt dann nach Norden ab. Ein Abstecher zur Spitze der Halbinsel und – mit der einzigen Kabelbahn Irlands – auf die vorgelagerte Insel Dursey Island (keine Übernachtungsmöglichkeit!) ist hier möglich. Ansonsten verläuft die Strecke über die R575 (L61A) nach Allihies. In jedem Fall ist westlich von Castletownbere die Straße sehr felsig und stei- gungsreich; eine Abkürzung nach Eyeries ist möglich. Allihies, Co. Cork, ist ein winziges Anglerdorf mit bunten Häusern. Im 19. Jh. war hier das Zentrum der Kupferförderung; die letzten Schürftätigkeiten wurden 2 1962 eingestellt. Besichtigung der Gruben ist auf eigene Gefahr möglich. Verkehrsverbindungen: Privater Busdienst O’Donoghue’s, (027) 70007. Herberge: Cahermeelabo (An Oige), (027) 73014, 34 B., Juni-Sept, 1 km oberhalb des Dorfes gelegen, ggf. direkt von der R572 aus ansteuern (Allihies ist beschildert, kür- zere, aber steilere Strecke); Bonnie Braes (IHH), Allihies, (027) 73107, 20 B., Mitte März-Okt. Die R575 (L61A) führt entlang der Küste nord- und dann ostwärts und trifft bei Eyeries auf die R571 (L62). Östlich dieses kleinen Ortes steht der größte be- kannte Stein (5,18 m hoch) mit Ogham-Inschriften (nur durch Fragen zu finden, da nicht beschildert). Herberge: Urhan Hostel (IHI), (027) 74005, 20 B., ganzj. Über Ardgroom fahren Sie weiter nach Lauragh und sind mittlerweile im County Kerry angekommen. Kurz vor dem winzigen Dorf liegt der Derreen Woodland Garden, der im 19. Jh. angelegt worden ist; April-Sept tägl. 11-18 h. Herberge: Glanmore Lake (An Oige), (064) 83181, 36 B. in 4 Zi., Ostern-Sept, 5 km südlich im Tal des Glanmore River gelegen. Camping: Creveen Lodge **, (064) 83131, 16 Zstpl., Ostern-Okt, 2 km vom Dorf ent- fernt an der R574 Richtung Healy Pass. In Lauragh knickt die Strecke links auf die R573 (Küstenstraße) ab und trifft bei Tousist wieder auf die R571 (L62). Bei schönem Blick auf die Mündung des Ken- mare River hat man dabei den Vorteil, sich einen Hügel zu ersparen. Die Straße folgt der Küste und mündet kurz vor Kenmare in die N71 (T65). Kenmare, gäl. Neidín, 1100 Einw., Co. Kerry, ist der Anfangspunkt für die zu Recht berühmte Rundtour Ring of Kerry. Gegründet wurde der Ort im 17. Jh. als Zentrum der mittlerweile längst eingestellten Eisenindustrie; heute sind die Erwerbsquellen außer im Tourismus vor allem in Fischerei, Landwirtschaft und Leichtindustrie angesiedelt. Der industrielle Vorzeigebetrieb ist Convent of the Poor Clares, wo handgeklöppelte Spitze hergestellt wird. 3 km südlich von Kenmare ist nahe der N71 (T65) der Wasserfall des Sheen River zu bewun- dern. In gleicher Entfernung, aber westlich der Stadt an der N70 (T66), erhebt sich auf einem Felsen Dunkerrott Castle, erbaut 1596. Nur etwa 1 km südwestlich der Stadt (über Market Street zu erreichen), befin- det sich am Ostufer des River Finnihy ein Druidenkreis aus 15 Steinen, die einen großen Dolmen umgeben. Information: Tourist Office, Heritage Centre, (064) 41233, April-Okt. Verkehrsverbindungen: Busse nach Cork und Killarney. Herberge: Fáilte Hostel (IHH), Shelbourne Street, Kenmare, (064) 42333, 39 B., März-Okt. Camping: Ring of Kerry, (064) 41648, 41631, 30 Zstpl., März-Sept., 4 km westlich der Stadt an der N70 (T66); Shady Rest, 2 km vor Kenmare an Etappe 27. Fahrradvermietung: Finnegan’s Souvenir Shop, 37 Henry Street, (064) 41083. 3.
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