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VIETNAM august 2014 The Vegetarian Issue

Hope Floats Addressing 's Drowning Epidemic PAGE 20

The Religion of Delicious Finger Licking Ribs and Chicken PAGE 46

1 Why we love a mess A great BIS teacher is: Because at ISHCMC we 50% Innovator understand that sometimes you 50% Entertainer have to get your hands a little 50% Motivator messy to be truly innovative. And is apparently able to defy the laws of mathematics. Today’s students need to do more than memorise information in traditional classrooms. They need a more evolved approach to education that allows them the freedom to pursue their passions fearlessly. In addition to a strong academic foundation, they need opportunities to be creative, innovative and analytical, all of which lie at the heart of the ISHCMC philosophy. Dedicated, skilled and well-qualified teachers, with relevant British curriculum experience, ensure that the education on offer is amongst the very best available anywhere in the world. BIS teachers inspire students to make the best of their abilities – including solving Come and see impossible maths equations like the one above. the difference we can make in your child’s life. Where is your child going?

The only school in HCMC fully accredited to offer all 3 International Baccalaureate programmes for students aged 2 - 18 years. Hanoi: www.bishanoi.com 28 Vo Truong Toan, District 2 : www.bisvietnam.com Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam Tel: +84 (8) 3898-9100 Email: [email protected] www.ishcmc.com

2 Carla, Grade 4 & Ella, Grade 1 ISHCMC Students A great BIS teacher is: 50% Innovator 50% Entertainer 50% Motivator And is apparently able to defy the laws of mathematics.

Dedicated, skilled and well-qualified teachers, with relevant British curriculum experience, ensure that the education on offer is amongst the very best available anywhere in the world. BIS teachers inspire students to make the best of their abilities – including solving impossible maths equations like the one above.

Where is your child going?

Hanoi: www.bishanoi.com Ho Chi Minh City: www.bisvietnam.com

3 Everywhere you go

Director Xuan Tran

Business Consultant robert stockdill [email protected]

Sales Director Jimmy van der Kloet [email protected]

Managing Editor Christine Van This Month’s Cover [email protected] Image: Adam Robert Young Hair & Make up: Long But Chi Deputy Editor James Pham Model: MC Thanh Huyen [email protected] Clothes & Accessories: Biemxi & B2 Store () Researcher George Bond Venue: An Lam Villas Ninh Van Bay [email protected]

Associate Publisher khanh nguyen [email protected]

Creative Director PAOLO MALING [email protected]

Graphic Artists Kevin NGUYEN [email protected] NGUYEN Pham [email protected]

Staff Photographers ngoc tran Adam Robert young

For advertising please contact: Kate Tu [email protected] 091 800 7160

NGAN NGUYEN ƠI VIỆT NAM [email protected] 090 279 7951 NHÀ XUẤT BẢN THANH NIÊN Chịu trách nhiệm xuất bản: Đoàn Minh Tuấn chau nguyen Biên tập: Nguyễn Giang - Quang Hùng [email protected] 091 440 0302 Thực hiện liên kết xuất bản: Metro Advertising Co.,Ltd hanh (jessie) le 48 Hoàng Diệu, Phường 12, Quận 4 [email protected] 098 747 4183 In lần thứ mười bảy, số lượng 6000 cuốn, khổ 21cm x 29,7cm Đăng ký KHXB: 238 -2014/CXB/119 - 01/TN QĐXB số: 472/CXBIPH-QLXB

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4 5 Contents

COVER STORY The Vegetarian Issue Exploring the vegetarian lifestyle with recipes from local chefs and understanding the local custom of eating “chay” twice a month

30

FEATURES P10 datebook P20 Hope Floats P64 Ship to shore With these events, you'll never have to be An NGO’s mission to stamp out the silent Discovering the world as a cruise ship crew bored again epidemic of children drowning in the country P14 troi oi P22 Pushing daisies P79 ROMANTIC NOTIONS See why beer looting, twins and Bitcoin made A glimpse into the everyday lives of those Inspired Parisian chic for evenings out with our noteworthy numbers this month who make a living selling flowers your significant other P16 the bulletin P24 turning a new leaf P82 Unplanned Parenthood Checking out the latest promotions and The Central Highlands of Vietnam provide Misinformation and local myths are causing openings the perfect climate for growing , see the a rise in the country’s abortion rate process in pictures

6 7 WINE & DINE RESTAURANT REVIEWS From Andalusia tapas, American barbecue to Vietnamese couture vegetarian cuisine, this month’s reviews expand the globe

44 P92 Let’s Make a Deal P72 LIFE'S A TRIP P84 Home Interior A new bilingual daily deal website hoping to Stop, fold and bundle. Learn how to color match your walls with your revolutionize the way customers shop online Three easy steps to packing furniture in our new DIY design column

COLUMNS P28 SAIGON MYTHBUSTERS P74 Postcards from Vietnam P94 LEGAL EASE Are mornings the best time to haggle for that Bridget finds herself immersed in a sea Our reader finds out the hard way that unless the great bargain? And can you really put a price of mushrooms, ginger and lychee in entire contract he’s going to have a difficult time on a human life? Find out unforgettable Sa Pa getting his deposit back

8 Editor’s ISSUE NO. 17 Note august 2014

Vegging Out

When my family emigrated to My This month's Mythbuster focuses on restaurant that's not Korean in Phu My (literally “Beautiful,” the Vietnamese word the Vietnamese superstition around the Hung has been a bit of a challenge, so for America), we fell in love with all importance of the first sale of the day. It when I recently stumbled on VIVA!, a new over again. Gone was the chewy beef that finally made me understand why my dad tapas place around the corner from me, it left your jaw sore for days. I guess that’s would always accept the first offer back was a welcome addition to our dining out partly what made me into the meat lover I when we had a stall at the flea market in rotation. This month, we also review TnT am today. Give me a Flintstones-style 12oz the 90s, even when it was below what he BBQ in The Religion of Barbecuewhich I T-bone medium rare with a side of mash paid for the item. Even though we had have also added to my speed dial for some any time of day and I'll be a happy, satiated immigrated to the US for 15 years by then, good ole finger-licking ribs and wings girl. I think I’d be the world’s worst he still practiced certain Vietnamese beliefs (again, feeding the carnivorous side of me). vegetarian. Most weekends back in New about luck. Had I had known then what it Another great article this month is York, my friends and I would drive out to meant, maybe my sisters and I wouldn't Capital Consumption, a guide to a foodie some steakhouse in or New have argued with him so much about weekend in Hanoi’s Old Quarter. While Jersey to tackle the house steak challenge underselling every Sunday morning! I’ve lived here almost 10 years now, I’ve ― finish a 40oz steak and it's free or In Unplanned Parenthood, Annie Hoang sadly only had brief brushes with the compete against another person to see who shares a fascinating insider’s look into the nation’s capital. The weather was so humid can finish the steak the fastest. I was more world of birth control (or lack thereof) on my first trip that my cell phone was of a spectator than a participant but those in one of the city’s reproductive health actually from the inside. I had to weekends were fun, drool-worthy events. centers. Reading the story brought me take it apart and dry it out in front of a fan For me, vegetables have always been back to the days when I volunteered as a to get it working again. I only ventured out relegated to the realm of side dishes, never translator for my friend's NGO. I would a few times and the most memorable dish the star of a meal. My early experiences hear stories from rural women about how I had was streetside bun rieu cua. Jimmy with vegetarian meals in Vietnam didn’t they were afraid to sleep next to a man Dau reveals some of the best local places help much, with mock and bad because it might get them pregnant, or to eat and I’ll definitely bring this foodie versions of “regular” meals. As our issue that if they washed with bleach after sex guide with me the next time I make my shows, though, the country has come a they couldn’t get pregnant. It was shocking way north. long way in making a vegetarian lifestyle to hear this but what shocked me more So whether you’re a herbivore or a one that is truly palatable. James Pham was that, even though we were trying to carnivore, there’s bound to be something interviews Bob Allen, the man practically educate them on healthcare and the fallacy for you in this issue. Happy eating! single-handedly responsible for bringing of these myths, we knew that few would some innovative products to Vietnam and actual take it in, instead passing on these in Vegetable Indispensable, highlights some misconceptions to their future daughters, of the unique and delicious ingredients perpetuating the cycle of ignorance. available in country along with a twist on Having recently moved to District 7, how to prepare them. We also hear from I am constantly amazed at the number two expats who share their insights from of restaurants within walking distance Christine Van going green. of my apartment. However, finding a Managing Editor

9 Datebook Fill up your calendar with these exciting events

AUGUST 6 AUGUST 5 What: Marketing and Media Network What: Demystifying rural Vietnam Where: Cargo Bar, 7 Nguyen Tat Thanh, D4; 6pm-9pm Where: Movenpick Saigon, 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan About: An event for people interested in advertising, digital, About: Vaughan Ryan, managing director of Nielsen Vietnam, will marketing, media and technology. Speakers include Andrew Duck, tackle the makeup of Vietnam’s rural consumer, their shopping entrepreneur focused on the media and publishing industries; Phi habits and purchase drivers, the strategies for success in rural Nguyen, an MBA holder from Queensland University, , Vietnam and how you can effectively communicate with rural majoring in marketing communication and Aske Ostergard, managing consumers. Registration fee for co-hosting and AusCham members is director, Epinion Asia. Registration fee before August 3rd costs VND500,000 and VND700,000 for non-members. VND250,000, VND350,000 at the door and VND150,000 for students. Contact: Email Nhien at [email protected] for more info Contact: For more details, visit www.m2.vietnambusiness.tv

TRUST TRANSLATIONS FAST, ACCURATE ENGLISH TO VIETNAMESE TRANSLATION • Official documents & certificates • Visas & applications • Personal & business correspondence • Full website text • Literature & full-length books/manuscripts • Novel publishing/republishing in Vietnamese • Fluid, pleasant Vietnamese renderings • Reasonable rates – contact for a quote Quick turnaround, attention to detail guaranteed. Contact: Quynh ([email protected]) | YM: quynhnhd | SMS: 090 978 3108

10 AUGUST 8 - OCTOBER 31 AUGUST 9

What: Conjuring Capital Group Exhibition What: Retro Party Where: San Art, 3 Me Linh, Binh Thanh Where: The Grand Ho Tram Strip About: Features works of contemporary artists who reflect diverse About: The Grand will organize party zones all around the localities of historical and cultural difference and innovation, resort, making every corridor a time capsule with roving dancers, mediated via video, sculpture, installation, painting and drawing. impersonators of 80s stars, artistic performers and a vintage photo Participating artists include: Adriana Bustos (); Than Sok station where guests can put their best face forward. The event will (Cambodia); Sudarshan Shetty (India); Nguyen Hong Ngoc (Vietnam); kick off with a fusion dinner, including free flow beer and wine, Hank Willis and Christopher Myers (US). This exhibition is before The Grand turns it up with and DJs spinning curated by Zoe Butt and forms part of Conscious Realities, a three- into the night. Guest packages start from VND5,880,000++ that year project sponsored by a network partnership between the Prince includes a one-night stay, two tickets to The Grand Retro night, Claus Fund and San Art. round trip transfers to The Grand from Ho Chi Minh City and more. Contact: Visit www.san-art.org for further info Contact: Visit www.thegrandhotramstrip.com for further info

11 AUGUST 13

What: The Aristocrats live in Vietnam Where: Light Music Center, 57 Cao Thang, D3; 8-10pm About: Rock/fusion power trio The Aristocrats, featuring on guitar, on bass, and Marco Minnemann on drums, bring their tour to Vietnam. Depending on the location in the auditorium, ticket prices vary from VND500,000 to VND1 million. Contact: Visit www.ticketbox.vn for further info

JAPANESE HAMBURG STEAK RESTAURANT GYUMARU ハンバーグ専門店「ぎゅう丸」 8/3 Le Thanh Ton, D.1, HCMC Tue - Fri: 11:30am - 3:00pm 08 3827 1618 5:30pm - 10:00pm [email protected] Sat - Sun: 11:00am - 10:00pm

000 500 VND

STYLISH VIETNAMESE CUISINE TENDERLOIN STEAK FRESH LOCAL ROAST EXCELLENT RANGE OF PURE °Sparkling wine (glass) °Tenderloin Steak GREAT VALUE SET LUNCH °Salad & Bread Please order early because there is a limited number of it 44 NGUYEN HUE, DISTRICT 1 | 08 3824 1534 This is only dinner time WWW.HATVALA.COM

12 AUGUST 16 - 17

What: 3A Station Bazaar Where: Nha Ga, 3A Ton Duc Thang, D1; 9am-8pm About: The bazaar's focus is on showcasing locally sourced & handmade products with an emphasis on quality and value for money. The first event will feature more than 40 booths with a wide variety of products. The 3A Station Bazaar will offer two 30 minute Happy Time Sales, one in the morning and one in the afternoon where all products will be discounted 10 percent. The event is fun for the whole family with food on offer as well as entertainment and street performances. Mai's Gallery, famous for their paintings and caricatures will also be open for viewing. The event will also support local charities, enabling them to display their products and raise funds. Saigon Children's Charity will be participating in the event. The event will take place rain or shine. The bazaar is a two-day event that is slated to be held on the first and third weekend of each month Contact: Facebook: “3A Station Bazaar”

AUGUST 21

What: CBC Networking Night Where: Boudoir Lounge, Sofitel Saigon Plaza, 17 Le Duan, D1; 6pm About: Mix and mingle and share some stories while expanding your network and enjoying some canapés and drink specials. Come out and meet some new contacts from all different types of industry sectors and other business chambers. Free for CanCham members and co-hosting members. VND50,000 for non-members. Contact: Email [email protected] for more info

AUGUST 21

What: Canvas & Wine: Edvard Munch and Expressionism Where: VinSpace Garage, 95 Pasteur, D1; 6:30pm-9pm About: Join this session and give yourself a chance to emphasize your individual perspectives and express them on canvas, like those of expressionist Edvard Munch. Contact: Visit www.vin-space.com for info

SEPTEMBER 20 - 21

What: The Vietnam Mountain Marathon Where: Sa Pa About: Trail runs of 21km, 42km and 70km in the stunning rice terrace-clad mountains surrounding Sapa. With an expected field of 400 runners, this will be the largest mountain marathon ever seen in Vietnam. Competitors from Vietnam, Singapore, Malaysia, , , Hong Kong, Brunei, , and have already signed up. The event also features a 10km fun run on September 21. This will be a great opportunity for more people to get a taste of off- road running. Registration fee ranges from USD20 to USD510 and is open until August 20. Every entry fee for the event includes a USD20 donation to Sapa O’Chau, which runs a variety of local projects, including its own school with over 70 students. Contact: Visit www.vietnammountainmarathon.com for more info

13 Troi Oi The country by numbers

is the number of days apart a pair of boy-girl twins 30 was delivered to a young ethnic minority woman in northern Vietnam’s Ha Android phones Giang Province. Lu Thi Bien, are tapped in 27, who lives in an ethnic Over 14,000 Vietnam. Police minority village in Hoang in Vietnam have Su Phi district, gave birth to discovered a Hanoi-based company selling an illegal phone her first male child Then Van tracking app, which has been installed on more than 14,000 Chuyen on May 4 and baby Android phones, and manipulating the data its customers girl Then Thi May on June 5. secretly collected from their victims. Viet Hong Company, a “This is the first time I have tech firm based in Thanh Xuan District, advertises its ptracker seen such a case. It sounds app as being able to help users track other people’s Android unbelievable but true,” said phones, read their SMS messages and contact books, record Lu Thi Kim, who helped Bien deliver the twins at home. Doctor their phone calls, and even turn on features like camera, 3G or Ma Trung Nghia, Deputy Director of a general hospital in Hoang GPRS connections from the target devices. But its customers Su Phi district, confirmed this rare delivery and that the twins’ may not know that all of the data they covertly monitor from birthdays are separated by 30 days. Tran Duc Quy, director the handsets have been transferred to the server computer of of the Ha Giang Health Department, said local authorities will Viet Hong Co. at the disposal of the company’s employees, provide care and pay special attention to the twins. according to an investigation report.

general dental check-up - pediatric dentistry - teeth bleaching crowns and bridges - implant - braces - invisalign.

International dental clinic equipped with latest technology. English and French speaking doctors. Direct billing insurance service (Liberty, AIG, PVI). Implant experts with diplomate in France.

14 5 20 1 18 12 4 9 Tuesday Night 13 14 is Darts Night

in Saigon 6

1 1

8

10 13 15 men have been jailed for looting a beer truck in 7 southern Vietnam. A court sentenced them to 2 six months in prison for “publicly appropriating property” after they stole hundreds of beer 19 cans dropped from a overturned truck late last 3 17 year. According to the indictment, Tran Kim Hau drove a truck with 1,450 cans and bottles of beer 2 on board along National Highway 1A en route from Ho Chi Minh City to Binh Thuan Province. The driver lost control of the brakes causing hundreds of cans to ProudlyProudly SponsoredSponsored ByBy pour out of the truck into the street. After that, a crowd of people rushed to steal the fallen beers, ignoring the driver’s plea for help. Some even threatened to beat him when he tried to prevent them from stealing the beer. Cuong and Vinh took away 240 cans and 12 bottles valued at VND3 million on a delivery tricycle. The duo shared some of the stolen beer with their families and sold the rest for VND360,000. The court said there were 12 people involved in the looting. However, only Vinh and Cuong were indicted while the 10 others received cash fines or warnings because the items they stole were valued at less than VND2 million, which is the threshold for criminal charges under Saigon’s International Darts League Vietnamese law. is a competitive organization, consisting of 24 teams in 3 Divisions, competing at 17 Venues around town...

REDRED BarBar SaigonSaigon RetroRetro BarBar 70/7270/72 NgoNgo DucDuc KeKe 113113 HoHo TungTung Mau,Mau, d1d1

SpottedSpotted CowCow ChilliChilli BarBar 111,111, BuiBui Vien,Vien, d1d1 104,104, HoHo TungTung Mau,Mau, d1d1 VoodooVoodoo BarBar TavernTavern 92,92, HoHo TungTung Mau,Mau, d1d1 r2-24r2-24 HungHung GiaGia 3,3, BuiBui BangBang DoanDoan St,St, PhuPhu MyMy HungHung BuddhaBuddha BarBar Bitcoin trading floor in Vietnam 7,7, ThaoThao DienDien StreetStreet GameGame OnOn BarBar opens. A private company launched AnhAnh PhuPhu d2d2 115115 HoHo TungTung Mau,Mau, d1d1 Vietnam’s first Bitcoin exchange Ice Blue Vinyl Bar despite pledges from central Ice Blue Vinyl Bar 5454 DongDong Khoi,Khoi, d1d1 7474 PasteurPasteur government officials to shut it down and jail its operators. Ho Chi Minh Phatty'sPhatty's BarBar GartenstadtGartenstadt 1st City-based VBTC Vietnam cooperated 40,40, TonTon ThatThat ThiepThiep d1d1 3434 DongDong Khoi,Khoi, d1d1 with Israeli company Bit2C to launch StellaStella BarBar M52M52 the exchange in July at www.vbtc.vn, following a pilot run in late 119,119, BuiBui Vien,Vien, d1d1 5252 TonTon TapTap ThiepThiep d1d1 June, Thoi Bao Kinh Te Saigon reported. In February, the State HarryHarry CasualCasual TequilaTequila Bank of Vietnam said it does not recognize Bitcoin as a valid ssốố 22 ÐÐườườngng HHưưngng GiaGia III,III, 106106 Pasteur,Pasteur, BenBen NgheNghe Ward,Ward, currency, citing similar rulings in nearby countries like Thailand, PhPhườườngng TânTân Phong,Phong, d7d7 BinhBinh ThanhThanh , Malaysia and Indonesia and European nations including BaanBaan ThaiThai Russia, France and . 55/5755/57 ThaoThao DienDien Street,Street, Bitcoins were introduced as an open source software in 2009 AnhAnh PhuPhu d2d2 by Satoshi Nakamoto, possibly a pseudonym for one or more programmers. Transactions using Bitcoins have been conducted Looking for something to do on a Tuesday night? in a dozen countries in Europe and America; the currency itself is considered an asset. Analysts said Bitcoins provide little Pop into a venue near you and watch guarantee of payment as there is no central authority or bank to a match! Then try it yourself afterward. take responsibility for their authenticity or provide protection in case of fraud. You can keep up with all the news on www.thesidl.com 15 For more info: [email protected] The Bulletin Promotions and News in HCMC and beyond...

Mid-Autumn Festival Saigon Bakery, at New World Saigon Hotel, celebrates the mid- autumn festival until September 8 with moon cakes on special Moon Cakes and Food Promotions promotion. The moon cakes (available in flavors including green Kabin Restaurant (Renaissance Riverside, 8-15 Ton Duc bean, white lotus, pandan lotus, black sesame, coconut and Thang, D1) offers “All you can eat” lunch and dinner from mixed filling baked skin) are priced at VND850,000 for boxes August 2-24 for VND450,000++ per person (food only). of four or eight (cakes come in different sizes) or VND185,000 Dining vouchers are accepted with surcharge and applies for an individual cake. Purchase 10 to 20 boxes to receive a five to Standard Club Marriott dining benefits. percent discount, 21 to 149 boxes to receive a 10 percent discount Kabin also offers a collection of moon cakes to and 150 boxes or more to receive a 15 percent discount. Saigon celebrate the Mid-Autumn Festival. Place your orders until Bakery offers free delivery to District 1 or District 3 on orders of August 31 and enjoy 10 percent off for any order of 10-49 50 or more boxes. Those who place their orders before August 14 boxes, 15 percent off for any order of 50-99 boxes and 20 will receive a five percent discount. Club Epicure members will percent off for any order from 100 boxes. A 20 percent receive an additional five percent off your order total. To order, Club Marriott discount is also applicable. To order, call call 3829 4000 or email [email protected]. 3822 0033. The Riverside Café, in celebration of the National Day of Vietnam, offers authentic cuisines from Vietnam's main regions. Enjoy Vietnamese three regions dinner buffet on September 2-9 from 6pm-10pm for VND850,000++ per person (food only) and VND950,000++ per person (free flow of local beer/wines/sodas). Dining vouchers are also accepted with surcharge and applies to Standard Club Marriott dining benefits.

Ostrich Specials From August 9-15, Reflections (Caravelle Hotel, 19-23 Lam Son Square, D1) offers ostrich dishes such as goulash and kofta. Diners who wish to expand their ostrich tasting can order three courses from the menu for VND810,000++, or four courses at VND938,000++. For more info, visit caravellehotel.com.

16 ENGLISH CURRICULUM

QUALIFIED & CARING STAFF

New Steakhouse Recently opened Nossa Steakhouse (36 Pham Hong Thai, D1) features Western steaks and Italian cuisine. It offers a wide selection of imported meats along with Summer Getaway local fresh seafood. The restaurant has an Pandanus Resort (www.pandanusresort. outdoor terrace, a bar and a private dining com) offers a Summer Getaway Package area. To celebrate its opening, Nossa is priced at VND4,800,000++ for two people offering free dessert for every guest dining including two nights' stay in a superior in August. Visit www.nossa.vn or call 3825 room, two set lunches and dinners at the 1536 for info. Café Blue Lagoon Restaurant, round trip SMALL CLASS SIZES transfers to and from Ho Chi Minh City by bus, 40 minute massage at Peony Spa, tai chi class every morning and yoga class every afternoon and a walking tour of Mui Ne. Guests who stay on Saturday night, add VND300,000++ per person and substitute a poolside barbeque buffet for one set dinner. Entertainment is provided during the barbecue buffet by the Stardust Band from the Philippines. The package is available for bookings made before October 31. Craving for Crab InterContinental Asiana Saigon’s Yu Chu restaurant (corner of Hai Ba Trung and COMPETITIVE FEES Le Duan, D1) will satisfy your craving for crab. They will prepare it any style you want: wok fried with garlic and chili, wok fried with chili sauce, fried with glass noodles and XO sauce or Residential Area No.5, steamed with Chinese wine. The offer Brazilian Lunch Menu is priced at VND350,000++ per whole Thanh My Loi Ward, D2 In August, Au Lac do (238 Pasteur, crab including one Tiger draught beer (08) 3742 STAR / (08) 3742 7827 D3) is offering a set lunch menu that or soft drink, available until August 31. includes “elephant ear” – thin cuts of In the same period, Basilico will offer a www.saigonstarschool.edu.vn D-rump served with special fried potatoes lobster set dinner from 6pm-10pm for and “picanha” - Brazilian special cut with VND1,900,000++ for two including free french fries. Call 3820 7157 or visit www. flow of soft drinks and complimentary two aulacdobrazil.com for more info. glasses of wine.

17 Travel Search Engine Launched Spaniards Alberto Moreno and Miguel Garcia have developed Baolau.vn, a travel search engine that collects all information from public transport in Vietnam and makes it available online. According to Moreno, Baolau offers up-to-date travel information and a safe way to book tickets online. It currently provides price comparison and instant booking with three domestic : Vietnam Airlines, Jetstar and VietJet Air. It has also collaborated with Vietnam Railways to put train schedules and prices online. Recently, they signed an agreement with Click1BUS to sell tickets for Mai Linh and they expect to announce new partnerships with more transportation companies within the next few weeks.

Modeling Contest Elite Vietnam, together with DTN Communication and Yamaha, bring Elite Model Look to Vietnam for the first time, open to Vietnamese women aged 18-24. Twenty national finalists from Hanoi, Ho Chi Minh City, and Can Tho will go through a 10-day model boot camp, with the top three being named in the finals in early September. The winner will take home prizes valued at VND600 million. Elite Model Look, launched in 1983, is the world's largest international modeling contest, discovering top models from over 60 countries along the way, including Cindy Crawford and Gisele Bundchen. Dance Workshop DanCenter is running a summer workshop program for kids Boutique Hoi An Resort Promotion from four-years-old and older until August 22. Each workshop The Boutique Hoi An Resort (Group 6, Block Tan Thinh, Ward is Monday through to Friday with an independent theme, and a Cam An, Hoi An, Quang Nam) is offering a ‘Stay 4 nights and little every Friday for families and friends. Children pay for 3’ promotion for those booking online from August 21 to will learn to dance and have fun with arts and crafts activities, September 30. Rate includes daily buffet for two at Le featuring Cartoon Heroes themes (4+), Pop Star themes (7+), Café restaurant, free wireless internet in room and throughout and International Hip Hop Battle themes (10+). In A Summer on the resort, complimentary shuttle bus to Hoi An’s Old Town and Broadway musical workshops (7+), children will build free bicycle usage. For more info call 0510 3939 111 or visit www. performance skills in singing and acting by learning songs and boutiquehoianresort.com. scenes from some of the world’s most famous musicals such as Mama Mia, Hairspray and Les Miserables. For more info, visit dancentervn.com, or call 5319 4490. Dental Promotion Dr. Hung & Associates Dental Center has opened a second location on 244 Cong Quynh in District 1. Visit their new dental center and enjoy a full range of services with the latest equipment and technology including 20 Sirona Sinius and C4+ dental chairs, CT Cone Beam Icat Vision and Orthophos XG. To celebrate the opening, the dental center is offering a special promotion valid until August 30. The promotion includes free screening, 50 percent discount on X-ray film and teeth cleaning, 20 percent discount on composite filling and teeth whitening, 15 percent off on orthodontics and 10 percent discounts on veneers, porcelain crowns and dental implants. Call 3925 7526, or visit www.nhakhoadrhung.com for more info. Loudest Bicycle Horn Hornit, the world’s loudest bicycle horn, is now available at The Bike Shop (250 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2). Hornit emits Special Gifts a piercing 140 decibel sound which is enough to alert trucks, This month L’Apothiquaire www.lapothiquaire.com( ) will open a vans, buses, cars and even 'in a world of their own' pedestrians. new branch in Diamond Plaza. To celebrate the event, they will Compatible with all styles of bikes, including road bikes, it gives be offering special gifts to the first 50 customers. L'Apothiquaire cyclists a way of letting all other road users know where they are Artisan Beaute opened in 2005 and sells a comprehensive range and makes cycling much safer. The Bike Shop offers a 20 percent of organic body and face oils, scrubs, bath salts, organic soaps introductory offer forOi Vietnam’s readers. For more info, call and organic herbal blends from France. 3744 6405, or visit www.thebikeshopvn.com.

18 Fresh seafood, a unique blend of spices, excellent service, and a friendly atmosphere.

At The Crab Shack, we pride ourselves on being deliciously different. “Come and try us out for yourself.”

11B Le Quy Don St., Ward 6, D3, HCMC (08) 3930 9542 FREE [email protected] 19 facebook.com/thecrabshackvn delivery CHARITY FEATURE

Hope Floats Tackling drowning, a silent epidemic in Vietnam Text by James Pham Images by Dan Norman and Ben Collins

On a recent weekend in June, one of in some parts of Asia, reportedly kills more leading the Ministry of Labour, Invalids Asia’s silent but deadly killers struck again, children aged 1-4 than those who die from and Social Affairs' Child Care and this time claiming the lives of six Vietnamese measles, polio, whooping cough, tetanus, Protection Department to put forth an children. Four schoolgirls aged 13-15 in Ha diphtheria and tuberculosis combined. The effort to make swimming a compulsory Tinh, Central Vietnam, presumably slipped Alliance for Safe Children reports that in 2008 subject at schools by 2015. Sadly, a lack of into a river while hunting for oysters, there were 50 child drowning deaths in all funds led to the failure of this initiative, leaving slippers and bicycles behind as the of Australia compared to 50 child drowning causing Nguyen Trong An, the ministry’s only witnesses to the . Two hundred deaths per day in Bangladesh in that same deputy director to suggest that “provinces kilometres north, in Nghe An, two brothers, year. and cities would be better off raising funds aged 6 and 9, drowned in a nearby pond With more than 3,000 km of coastline themselves instead of waiting for funds while in the fields with their grandmother. and an untold number of rivers, lakes and from the State or ministries.” These incidents gave human faces to ponds, it’s not surprising Vietnam is battling NGOs and charities, like Water Safety statistics shared earlier that same week at a drowning epidemic. Ask any rural family Vietnam (WSV), are stepping in to fill the a conference organized by the Ministry of and chances are they will have a first-hand gap. The Melbourne-based not-for-profit has Labour, Invalids and Social Affairs, showing drowning or near-drowning story to tell. been training swim teachers since 2011 and that Vietnam has the highest drowning rate While many developed countries have had running swim programs for at-risk children in Southeast Asia, an average of nine children of education on water safety, and adults. After a near-drowning incident a day. Other estimates put drowning rates as in Vietnam limited awareness, combined of two tourists off the Ho Tram (Vung Tau) high as 35 per day, the vast discrepancy due with inadequate adult supervision (where coast, WSV was brought in to train resort to the fact that drowning deaths are often children are often left in the care of personnel on basic water survival and CPR. underreported to hospitals (the source of data grandparents or left to on their own) The next step was to train local children, for most national health statistics) for reasons and unsafe environments (the majority of but getting support from local officials and including the speed at which it claims children drown within 20 meters of their parents was surprisingly difficult. its victims making medical intervention homes, in shallow ponds, wells or other “In those early meetings with [government unnecessary or because incidents often water hazards) contribute towards these authorities] and parents to encourage them happen in rural communities, far from health extreme drowning rates. to send their children to the swim program facilities. Known as the “silent epidemic,” Another factor is the lack of swimming [first using hotel swimming pools and drowning is the third leading cause of skills. Surveys show only 35 percent of now the free community swimming pool unintentional injury death worldwide, and Vietnam’s children aged 8-15 can swim, managed by a consortium headed by HCMC

20 “We can very quickly teach children to float and swim and we can only hope that one day that skill will help them save their own lives or that of their friend or family member”

and upgrade qualifications for local swim teachers. Ultimately, WSV’s programs stress knowledge as much as skills. “Unfortunately, in Vietnam, we often have multiple deaths associated with a drowning accident. On too many occasions, when one person gets into difficulties, another weak swimmer tries to help and they too, drown. Children in our programs are taught: If you can’t swim, don’t go in. We encourage them to reach with a bamboo pole or throw something in the water instead. There are so many things that float, even for a few minutes: a palm frond or a backpack, for instance. Kids will naturally scramble and hold on to something. If small kids lay flat on their tummy, they businessman Carl Gay], I had to tell them don’t feel well enough equipped to rescue can actually pull quite a heavy person in by that while tourists were drowning in the anybody so they’d rather make sure you lowering their center of gravity. But one of sea, their own children were drowning in don’t get into trouble in the first place,” says the most important things we teach is the the rivers and streams,” says Pam O’Reilly, Pam. “In villages, there are deep wells which knowledge that you can actually intervene Project Manager for WSV. have no barriers because it impedes access to when someone is drowning and not stand the women who are getting water, so kids are by helplessly or jump in if you can’t swim. Center of Gravity riding their bikes around these wells freely. Hopefully, one day this simple rule may save Since the pool opened in August 2013, more And of course, children are attracted to water. a life,” says Pam. than 300 children have learned to swim But for so many, they don’t have a choice. At this , WSV is content to work with and recently 19 primary school teachers They have to live near water, whether it’s authorities at the local level in addressing the participated in a 14 day teacher training a well or fish farms or agricultural ditches. lack of suitable training locations and trained and school holiday swim program. Since And when parents can’t swim, they then swim teachers. “Right now, there is no way its founding, WSV has run swim programs tell their own children to not go near the to know if WSV programs are making a and trained teachers in HCMC, Hanoi, Vung water. But every child’s inquisitive nature difference to the drowning rate in Vietnam. Tau, Phuoc Buu, Hoa Hoi, Bien Hoa, Binh has it that they will, often with a , and What we do know is that not a day goes Tuan and Ben Tre, with particular focus on often unsupervised. However, our trainers by without us being told another story of rural locations where children are the most have noticed that kids, especially village someone drowning in Vietnam. We can very vulnerable to drowning hazards. kids, take to swimming very quickly. And quickly teach children to float and swim and Part of the problem lies in Vietnam’s water perhaps because they’re expected to take on we can only hope that one day that skill will culture, or lack thereof. “A lot of people responsibility at a much younger age, they help them save their own lives or that of their come to [the beach] and get wet but like a turn around and teach other little ones.” friend or family member.” , dunk, dunk, dunk, fully clothed and The charity also brings in Australian then get out. From what we can see, actual volunteers to conduct two-week swim Additional reporting by Pam O’Reilly. For swimming in deep water is not encouraged. programs for children, as well as works with more information on Water Safety Vietnam, Lifesavers will whistle you back when you go similar locally-based charities to exchange or to volunteer, help raise awareness or donate, into deeper water. Maybe it’s because they materials, share staff, help train presenters visit www.watersafetyvietnam.com

21 HUMANS OF HO CHI MINH CITY

“This is going in a newspaper? Lilies are in season this time of the year. If I don’t work fast it’s going to be morning before I can clean my stock."

“I sell flowers to everyone but pretty ladies are my preferred “You don’t seem very busy at the moment.” customers. Speaking of which, would you like some daisies?” “I’m not. I’m playing Candy Crush. The peak hours are over. Now I just need to stay awake until morning.” Pushing Daisies Stop and smell the roses at the city’s largest flower market Text by npd khanh Images by Adam Robert Young

Founded in 1987, Ho Thi Ky in District Phong apartment block. market opens 24/7 but it is from 11pm to 6am 10 is the largest and oldest night flower Even in its most lively hours during peak that the trading peaks. market in Ho Chi Minh City. It is here trading time, there’s only a subdued buzz as Anh explains the market’s etiquette: “Do that flowers from Da Lat and the northern sellers and buyers politely bargain. not ask the price if you do not intend to buy. provinces of Vietnam converge before “The flower market is a different breed If you already bought something then you being shipped off to flower shops and of market altogether,” says Lan Anh, whose can ask all you want. Sales are always in tens retailers all over the city. It boasts flora family has run a store in the heart of the or bundles. We are not small time flower of all kinds, from common daisies to rare market since the ‘80s. “Seeing plenty of shops. We don’t sell less than 10 flowers foreign imports from Thailand, and Vietnamese day markets is not the same at once. If you make the mistake of asking China. The locals say that if you can’t find as seeing Ho Thi Ky. We sell flowers so and the buyer does not reply - or replies by a species in Ho Thi Ky, you probably won’t naturally we are quieter than the folks who saying these aren’t for sale - then walk away. find it anywhere in Vietnam. sell fish and meat. And since it’s a supply Do not bother them. You do not want to point, the people who need to know about cause a scene. No trucks in the market; park Despite its size, Ho Thi Ky goes about its your truck in the designated area. Within the daily business quietly. A small shop with us already know and the people who don’t market, try to walk. Bikes are only allowed if hyacinth branches hanging off its faded probably aren’t in the business anyway your shop is nearby and you do the transport banner some 25 meters deep inside the so there is no need for advertisement or yourself. If you need help with your buys, market is the only indication of what it is. Go attention seeking of any kind.” we have hand-pulled carts and a couple of in further and the first shop will be followed Ho Thi Ky initially started out as an ad boys you can hire by the hour. Flowers that by a bevy of stores selling orchids, wreaths hoc gathering place for farmers to wholesale have stayed in-shop for more than a night and flower supply services for weddings their flowers. The cheap temporary are called ‘hoa muoi.’ Always haggle hard if and celebrations. Then the street branches accommodation provided by the Le Hong you want to buy those. As for tourists and off into Tran Binh Trong and a handful of Phong apartment block provided the passers-by, we really don’t mind the odd one alleyways and from then on flower shops perfect place for trucks to come in and out. as long as they do not intrude on our trade. after countless flower shops are nestled in a Eventually, it expanded and received official And remember: do not ask if you do not checkerboard pattern around the Le Hong recognition by the government in 1987. The intend to buy… in bulk.”

22 “I’ve had a good turnout today. Very busy trading. Some of the flowers that came in the ice trucks got a bit of a bruising since the driver wasn’t properly monitoring the temperature, but luckily only a few of them so it’s not so bad. I’m holding one right now. It’s still cold. I think I can still sell it. Say, do you “It’s not Women’s Day or Valentine’s Day, but roses are always popular.” happen to have an empty vase back home?”

“To arrange the petals of a pre-blooming Lily of the Nile is a “I’ve done this job for the last 20 years. It’s a little repetitive except for when delicate task. Please don’t break my concentration.” tourists or press people like you come around with your flash. I can think of worse ways to spend 20 years than working with daisies though.”

23 THROUGH THE LENS

Turning a New Leaf Vietnamese tea farmers pick leaves in a verdant field in central Vietnam's mountainous highland region. A little background on the journey of your tea leaf - from plant to pot - might just make the significance of your next cup of tea a little more remarkable. Images by Ngoc Tran

24 25 26 27 saigon mythbusters THE MYTH: Is it true that the best time to shop for bargains is right when the shop opens because there’s a Vietnamese belief called “mo hang” – meaning that the first sale of the day will bring them good luck – so the shop owner can’t refuse the first offer because it’ll be bad for business? g e BY N GO C T R AN ima

Yes the belief called “mo hang” exists, fortune of the entire household for that item is not for sale. More aggressive shop although its exact meaning is a bit coming year. owners may also ask the shopper to move different. Mo“ hang” refers to the action of Vietnamese shoppers use mo hang to along if they have no intention to buy. a buyer to open/start the sale of the day get a good bargain on things that they In this way, mo hang technically did not and it is also the name of a Vietnamese want. This does not necessarily mean happen and the shop owner can then wait superstition held by merchants in which that the shop owners cannot reject a sale for the next serious buyer who will bring the first sale of the day acts as a sign of either. A proper “mo hang” is initiated good luck. how the entire day of trading will go. If the when a potential buyer asks the price of an In the case of a bad mo hang in which first sale is smooth and quick, the day will item. The seller accepts by answering the a sale does not happen, less than polite be good. If the first sale is troublesome and question with a clear price. shop owners may also react negatively ends up a no-sale, then the day will be bad. Because a bad mo hang means a bad (verbal insults, burning small pieces of This belief is mirrored in the Vietnamese day of sale, many owners, if they feel the paper to ward off bad luck, or in a rare practice of “xong dat” where the first shoppers are merely curious about the case, physical violence) to the shopper person who opens the door of a household items and not serious in buying, will reject guilty of bringing him/her bad luck for on the morning of Tet will dictate the by not answering or by saying that the the entire day. THE MYTH: Is it true that if you kill a Vietnamese person during a traffic accident, you have to pay USD1,000 to the family of the victim?

This is false. The punishment for family of the deceased person is further commits the crime is from a country killing a Vietnamese person during stipulated in Resolution 3/2006 but with a bilateral agreement with Vietnam, a traffic accident is stipulated in no exact amount is given. Instead, the the case will be judged and processed two separate legal documents: The amount is calculated as a total of the according to the specific agreement; Vietnamese Penal Code and the People’s funeral cost, compensation for emotional and if the expat who commits the crime Supreme Court Resolution 3/2006. The damage to the family of the deceased has diplomatic immunity, the case is prescribed punishment in the penal code and monthly financial support if the documented and supervised by the (clause 202) is six months to 10 years of deceased person was a source of income imprisonment, depending on whether for the family. Ministry of Foreign Affairs. Copies of the death was caused by another traffic The penal code is applicable to these documents are transferred to the violation or an occupational misconduct, everyone and any crime committed on relevant embassy, as well as an administrative fine from Vietnamese territory regardless of status, and depending on the severity of the VND5 million to VND50 million. race, religion or native country except crime, the expat may be forcibly evicted The financial compensation to the in two special cases - if the expat who from Vietnam.

28 June / July Oi Photo Contest Results Food, Glorious, Food

Fan Favorite Winner Oi Favorite Winner Submitted by KYLE L. Submitted by CLEMENT J. Award: One night stay (with breakfast for two) at the Hotel Muse Award: 2 Ooh! level tickets to the A O Show in Bangkok, an M Gallery Accor hotel at the Saigon House

Best Story Winner Submitted by PATRICK D. Award: (1) BBQ Sampler courtesy of TnT BBQ “We were visiting our friend’s family in the deep south, Ca Mau. They were up a storm for over 30 guests that night, all relatives. One item on the menu, delicious cháo gà or chicken congee! Home grown chickens, scallions, homemade broth, it couldn’t get any better. It cooked for hours and it was delectable! Most Engaging (most unique comments The home sits on the river and the and shares), back view is the family’s snake Submitted by JULIANA G. Award: (1) VND 1,000,000 voucher farm, something the family farm, to Scott and Binh’s something the family does on the side . . . An unforgettable feast of food, friends and love.”

HONORABLE MENTIONS

Submitted by HARRY D. Submitted by PHUONG V. Submitted by STAFFAN S. Submitted by ZUZANNA K.

Submitted by SON N.

CONGRATULATIONS TO OUR WINNERS AND THANK YOU TO OUR CONTEST SPONSORS! 29 We all know the arguments that being vegetarian is better for the environment and for the animals — but in a carnivorous culture, it can be hard to make the change. However, as we find out this month it's easy to find great-tasting and good-for-you vegetarian food in Saigon. Whether you’re strolling the aisles of your local wet market or walking down the street at lunchtime, there's an array of tasty vegetarian options to be found. If you need inspiration in the kitchen, look no further than our chefs' recommendations on popular local ingredients.

Chuc An Ngon! The Vegetarian Issue

Tuan and Tu's Lotus Salad

30 Good Will Eating Text by NPD Khanh Images by Ngoc Tran Understanding the Vietnamese custom of ‘going vegetarian’ based on the cycle of the full moon

Vietnamese believe that the full correct, fails to communicate the spiritual extravagant meals, sweet pastries, wine and moon is an analogy to one's virtues. On undertone of the word. The Vietnamese spirits of any kind. Their meals are reduced the first and 15th day of the lunar month, perception of chay is loose and can either to only two or in some cases one per day locals, whether Buddhists or not, lay mean a long-term commitment or an and the portion is just enough to sustain the down their spicy meat stir-fries in favor intermittent bid to a spiritual and religious body. In other words, to undergo trai tinh of vegetables and meat substitutes. It’s a discipline. is to create as little harm and waste to the cultural belief that “an chay” - abstinence “‘Chay’ is the common dysphemism of world as possible. To seek trai tinh is to seek from meat and various stimulants - during the word ‘trai’ or ‘trai tinh,’ a transcription to sympathize and act with mercy towards this time will help them obtain good health of the Sanskrit word ‘Upavasatha.’ Its all other living creatures. It is the slow path and peace of mind. true meaning is to keep oneself pure and to enlightenment.” “It certainly is true that the Vietnamese clean from worldly taints,” explains Ap According to Vietnamese Buddhist word ‘chay’ means to not eat meat, but Tich. “To keep oneself from taints does scripture, there are two primary ways to that is not all it means,” says monk Ap not merely mean to not eat fish or meat, practice trai tinh. One is called chay truong, Tich of Vinh Nghiem pagoda in District 3, but a true and complete restraint of self which means to completely commit to strict who claims that the Vietnamese to English indulgences concerning food and drinks. for life. The second ischay translation of “chay” as “vegetarian,” while Buddhist undergoing trai tinh abstain from ky (meaning “vegetarianism on a schedule”)

31 waste. In this tumultuous world, how do you know when you will need divine help to get you or your children out of trouble?” Unlike Hai, Xuan, 23, and strictly not a Buddhist, doesn’t really buy in to the spiritual aspect of the practice. Xuan has been on and off herluc trai schedule for two years. “It was difficult at first,” she confesses, “but after a while, I got used to it.” So why does she practice this custom while none of her family are followers of ? “It’s for my health. The Buddhists really mean it when they say to keep one pure and clean from worldly taints. Aside from meat, fish and spices, they also do not eat butter, cheese or greasy food. They refrain from using too much spice, salt and sugar. Their meals are very clean and light. When you examine it, it really is the ideal diet for optimum health. Western people have something similar they call a detox diet. Have you heard of it?” Flexing her muscle for definition, Xuan adds: “I treasure my health above everything. You can’t buy health even if you have a fortune. We Vietnamese have a saying: ‘When we are young we sell our health for riches; when we are old we sell our riches for health.’ I’m not going to do something like that. I’m going to take care of my health when I’m still young. Riches will follow soon after.” Mrs. Hue’s family in Go Vap are twice- a-month vegetarians in the karmic hopes that it will clean up their mistakes in life and to wish for peace. “I know that eating vegetarian food cannot help change my life, cannot turn me from poor to rich, but when I eat vegetarian food, I always feel peaceful. That’s enough!” she says.

Free Meals

During the days of chay ky, particularly on full moon days of each month, many an intermittent vegetarianism on a fixed self-discipline and restraint, to inflict as little pagodas treat their visitors and followers monthly or quarterly schedule. Chay ky is harm and to create as much good as possible to free vegetarian meals: far more prevalent in Vietnamese culture. to the world. The Vietnamese Buddhist There are many types ofchay ky, each of definition of true life-long vegetarianism is - Xa Loi Pagoda, 89 Ba Huyen Thanh which follows a different schedule and far stricter than Western vegetarianism. It Quan, D3 timing. Nhi trai is to practice vegetarianism is no small feat to simply jump directly into two times per month on the first day of the chay truong, and such a life is naturally not - An Quang Pagoda, 243 Su Van Hanh, Lunar month and the day of the full moon. for every Buddhist. For that purpose, chay D10 Tu trai is to practice vegetarianism four ky serves as the primer to see if a Buddhist times a month on the first day, the eighth, can adapt to chay truong and a prolonged, - Giac Lam Monastery (also the oldest the 23rd of the Lunar month and the day of gradual transition that takes years to Buddhist monastery in Saigon), 118 Lac the full moon. Similarly, luc trai is on the complete,” explains Ap Tich. Long Quan, Tan Binh eighth, 14th, 15th, 23rd, 29th, and 30th day of the Lunar month. Karma Waters - Long Hue Pagoda, 131/27 Nguyen Nhat ngoat trai, which operates on a Hai, 42 and father to three teenage children, Thai Son, Go Vap yearly schedule instead of monthly, is to is a practitioner of tam ngoat trai and on the practice vegetarianism for a full month in verge of full transition to chay truong. - Vinh Nghiem Pagoda, 339 Nam Ky important Buddhist months like January, “Buddha says he who seeks to harm none Khoi Nghia, D3 July and October. Tam ngoat trai which lasts is rewarded with merits that will bring for three months instead of one is on the good fortune not only for himself but for These free vegetarian meals are same schedule. his children and grandchildren as well,” communal and at fixed times, usually “The final purpose ofchay ky is to prepare he shares. “I have many children. A lot of only after the main morning or afternoon Buddhists to eventual chay truong, a life of merits from Buddha are not going to go to prayer services.

32 The King of Green Text by JAMES PHAM Images by Ngoc Tran

Greengrocer Bob Allen speaks about his experiences as a farmer in Vietnam

If there’s one name synonymous with fruits and vegetables in Vietnam, it has to be Bob Allen, owner of Veggy’s, a specialty produce store with locations in Ho Chi Minh City, Hanoi and Phnom Penh and a godsend for vegetarians who want the freshest produce around. With a background in farming, trading in produce and the air freight of perishable items, Bob describes his decades-long obsession with fresh fruits and vegetables as “an innocuous pursuit. I’ve always liked being around green stuff”. Residing in Vietnam since the mid-90s, Bob initially started with strawberries. That venture has now grown into Golden Garden Produce (golden-gardenvn.com), a four hectare farm in Dalat and Bob’s personal agricultural laboratory. “From the beginning, I said we were going to produce in a clean, green manner, with no residue in our products. In those early days, there were lots of problems [in the news] with poisoning, mostly coming from vegetables. While our objective isn’t to be organic, it is to keep everything residue free, to go for quality, to add nutrients to give our products good leaf structure and a better shelf life,” says Bob. In the book Communion: A Culinary Journey Through Vietnam, Bob talks about the early days of experimenting with new crops, including one time when he was shipping broccoli out of Vietnam, only to be asked by the customs inspectors why he had painted his cauliflower green. Fast forward 20 years and Bob’s still tinkering with what Vietnamese soil can produce. “We’re always

33 trying to come up with something new and produce coming out of Dalat ― mostly exciting. Right now, we’re growing rhubarb - cabbage, onions and carrots. In those early although it’s not working out very well - and days, there were only two kinds of lettuce in Jerusalem artichokes. We’re also looking at the whole country, butterhead and escarole. colored Swiss chard and micro vegetables ― But things have changed over the years. tiny little carrots and radishes. We’re trialing People here now eat a lot of zucchini, more “People here a new mix of heirloom cherry tomatoes salads, broccoli… I think we’ve changed which are really magical.” eating habits quite a lot.” While Bob describes his operation as small There is a limit to what can be grown in now eat a lot of but intensive,” sowing, planting, harvesting Vietnam, however. “Here, everyone and and shipping six days a week, 52 weeks a their brother claims to grow organic [fruits zucchini, more year with a relatively large range of products, and vegetables], but that’s nonsense. In there’s a continual focus on innovation. Dalat, there’s acid rain and lots of nitrates “We’re getting more serious about using a in the soil and water. At our main farm, we salads, broccoli… soilless culture system and we’re installing use a borehole and can drink water from the hydroponics for all our salads [which include ground, but most people are dealing with I think we’ve exotic varieties like Salanova and mizuna]. less than perfect water. [Organic] is not We also use things like coconut coir and really feasible.” changed eating burned rice husk. At the moment, we have 16 And has being surrounded by some of the different varieties of tomatoes in the ground country’s finest fruits and vegetables made and 12 varieties of romaine lettuce in the him a vegetarian? “My wife and mother-in- habits quite a lot” testing stage.” law get on the vegetarian Buddhist thing at Bob’s efforts have borne fruit, not only times and I see lots of vegetarian restaurants with the expat community who crave a opening up. People want to eat healthier, taste of home, but with the Vietnamese they have more money, and they travel community at large. “Back [when I started], more. But I just eat whatever. I haven’t been there was a very limited amount of fresh suckered into it yet.”

34 Vegetable Indispensable Text by JAMES PHAM Images by Ngoc Tran adam robert young quinn ryan mattingly Exploring Vietnam’s best vegetarian ingredients

Chef Nguyen's Lotus Stem Salad

For many, Vietnam is a paradise for love that when I lived in Vietnam, you knew might have is with fish sauce, which is vegetarians of all kinds. Restaurants roll out the season by the fruit in the market. As for essential to the cuisine. But many Buddhist a vegetarian menu for the first and 15th of veggies, I think about the herbs that are used dishes use soy sauce rather than fish sauce, every month for those looking for a bit of to garnish everything from salads to soups so you're sure to find something you can eat. soul purification. Home cooks revel in a huge to spring rolls. Even if a dish is deep-fried, And when you're in a pinch, head for a banh assortment of fruits and vegetables, changing it will usually come with some fresh greens mi stand and buy a baguette ― you can never with the season. And foodies rejoice with to lighten it. I find now that a meal is not go wrong with that. Bottom line: Vietnamese all the new vegetarian-as-health-food places complete for me if it isn't accompanied by food is very flexible!” that are springing up around the city like some type of fresh greens.” For our cover story, Oi met some of the mushrooms. While the majority of Vietnam’s city’s top chefs to ask them about their Kim Fay, author of Communion: A Culinary vegetarians do it for religious reasons, it’s favorite vegetarian ingredients and how to Journey Through Vietnam, recalls what she becoming a more vegetarian-friendly culture prepare them. saw of the country’s love affair with fruits for expats and travelers. “In my experience, and vegetables. “Vietnam is a country for people are not offended if you tell them, ‘I Lotus (Stems, seeds, roots and leaves) vegetarians. Not only are salads plentiful, can’t eat this’ or ‘I can’t eat that’,” says Kim. there is a strong tradition of vegetarian “My sister does not eat beef or pork and the Vietnamese: Sen (ngo, hạt, cu, la) cuisine in the Buddhist communities. I love people we met along the way ― in private that meals in Vietnam are often followed by homes and in restaurants ― were happy to Nutritional value: According to Auburn cold fresh fruit, rather than dessert. I also accommodate that. The one issue vegans University (USA), lotus seeds can be ground

35 CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: Ben Dell's Sweet Potato, Prem Bistro & Cafe's Eggplant dish, Robin Deepu's Palak Paneer, Chef Ninh Cong Dan's Bitter Melon and used as flour, the roots cooked like sweet grapes, provide phytochemicals found in vitamin C you need, almost 15 percent of potatoes and the leaves used as spinach. The the skin of the eggplant, and have been your daily dietary fiber intake and 10 percent stems have antioxidant properties and are a linked to protecting fats found in brain cell of the necessary potassium. Sweet potatoes rich source of calcium, iron and fiber. membranes. They are also low in calories also contain antioxidants and have anti- and contain other compounds that promote inflammatory properties. Cost: Stems are approximately VND26,000 good health, possibly even helping to prevent per kilo cancer and lowering cholesterol. Cost: Approximately VND30,000 per kilo

Uses: Almost every part of the lotus can be Cost: Approximately VND22,000 per kilo Uses: The Vietnamese use both the leaves used in cooking. In Vietnam, the seeds can be and tubers in cooking. Leaves can be stir- eaten as a snack, straight from the flower or Uses: “Eggplants are extremely versatile fried and the tuber is often seen deep-fried steeped in a sugar syrup and then dried, or as they can be used in Asian and Western as a snack sold in small glass cases on the are cooked into desserts or glutinous rice. The dishes and they’re easy to find cheaply here side of the road or stewed in curries and even stems can be found raw in salads or stir-fried in Vietnam,” says Thanh Yen, co-owner of in desserts. Bodybuilder and restaurateur or pickled. The leaves can be used to infuse Prem Bistro & Café, a vegetarian restaurant. Ben Dell, who owns Ben Style, says flavor into fried rice. Even lotus root can be Spongy, with a pleasantly bitter taste, purple sweet potatoes are an excellent source of used for stocks and salads. eggplants find their way into Vietnamese carbohydrates and are slow burning so they , soups and stir-fries, or are simply don’t raise your blood sugar, important when Tuan, owner of Tuan and Tu’s restaurant, grilled and topped with scallion oil. Prem’s you’re looking to lose fat. He also makes recommends using lotus seeds in stews, as uses eggplant slices (lengthwise), salted and a healthy version of sweet potato chips. they need time to soften. And Chef Nguyen pan-fried with olive oil to wrap around a “They’re a little bit tougher [than regular of New World Saigon Hotel’s Parkview filling of onion, spinach and ground cashew white potatoes], but are great for people who Restaurant says preparing the stems for the nuts, topped with a lightly seasoned tomato want to stay healthy. Because they’re tough restaurant’s Lotus Stem Salad is simple (with puree. “For Vietnamese, the word ‘vegetarian’ and hard, soak them in water for 24 hours crispy tofu replacing the more traditional has a negative connotation. Vegetarian dishes to soften them up. That also keeps them boiled shrimp and pork). “Just cut off both typically include a lot of chemicals, or are from drying out when cooking. Cut them ends of the stalks and rinse. Use your fingers made from flour and molded into fake meat. into wedges and brush them with olive oil or a knife to peel off the outer skin before Because Vietnamese are vegetarian mostly or a non-fat spray before putting them in a soaking in a diluted salt water bath for 15-20 for religious reasons, they don't really care convection oven. Just add a bit of allspice for minutes. Most people throw away the part whether what they're eating is good for flavor. No need to go to McDonald’s!” closer to the root and just use the stem, but them or not. But we’re seeing many younger you can keep it for a stir-fry because that Vietnamese take on vegetarianism as a Yogurt and Cheese (yaourt or sua part is actually a bit sweeter. For lotus roots, lifestyle, to be more healthy,” says co-owner chua and pho-mai) instead of salt water, soak them in ice water Ha Le. with a few drops of lemon juice to keep them Nutritional value: Not a carbohydrate, fresh, crunchy and tasty.” Sweet Potato (Khoai lang đuong) protein or fat, natural yogurt is nonetheless plentiful in lactose, protein-rich and abundant Purple Eggplant (Ca tim) Nutritional value: Known as one of the in healthy fatty acids. Vitamins and minerals healthiest vegetables around, a medium sized naturally found in milk are better assimilated Nutritional value: Eggplants and other sweet potato contains more than your daily in the form of yogurt, and the healthy purple plant foods, such as blueberries and requirement of vitamin A, nearly a third the bacteria aid in the production of vitamins

36 Chef Vinh Ton That's Eryngii Mushroom and help the bloodstream better absorb simmered in a puree of spinach, tomatoes, antioxidants. Vegetarian ingredients are sold calcium. Cheese is a source of many essential garlic and onions and flavored with ginger, everywhere in Vietnam and most of them nutrients, including high-quality protein, and garam masala, turmeric, chili and coriander are very easy to work with,” says Chef Dan. can be part of a healthy diet, especially when power and fenugreek. paired with lower-calorie foods. Eryngii Mushrooms (Also known as Bitter Melon ( qua) king oyster mushrooms or nam dui ga) Cost: VND30,000 for 1 liter of homemade Vietnamese yogurt Nutritional value: Bitter melon is a good Nutritional value: In addition to being an source of iron, magnesium, phosphorus, antioxidant, king oyster mushrooms (called Uses: The Vietnamese tend to eat sweetened potassium, pantothenic acid and vitamin B-6. “chicken leg mushrooms” in Vietnamese yogurt more as a snack than in cooking. It also contains lutein, a crucial component for their thick, meaty stem) have significant Yogurt frozen in small containers or little for healthy skin, eyes, nerves and hair as well antibacterial activity. They are also high in bags are a popular after-school treat. It can as polypeptide-P, a plant insulin known to nutrients while being low-calorie. also be made at home easily and cheaply, lower blood sugar levels. using one can of sweetened condensed milk, Cost: Approximately VND85,000 per kilo mixed with two cans of hot water and one Cost: Approximately VND15,000 per kilo can of lukewarm water. A starter culture Uses: Because they’re so meaty, king oyster (for instance, a small container of store- Uses: The bitter melon may have originated mushrooms are often the main ingredient in bought yogurt) is added, stirred and then in Southeast Asia and grows readily even vegetarian dishes. The Vietnamese stir-fry refrigerated. For thicker yogurt, use fresh in small spaces which may explain why them, caramelize them with ginger slices milk instead of water. some Vietnamese do not find it bitter at and use them in mushroom hotpots. Vinh all. However, for those who do, soaking Ton That, Executive Head Chef of Shri says: Robin Deepu, owner of Baba’s Kitchen, it in cold or ice water may make it more “There are so many varieties of mushrooms says in his native India, yogurt isn’t a palatable. The bitter melon is most grown here in Vietnam. They’re cheap breakfast food but is mainly used in cooking, commonly found stuffed with minced pork and provide good textures to food.” Chef as a base for spices used in marinades, or and made into a soup or simply fried with Vinh presents a mix of mushrooms with used in lassi, a refreshing yogurt drink. The scrambled eggs. Because the melon doesn’t risotto. “The Eryngii mushroom is very key to good yogurt is the milk over transfer its bitterness to other ingredients, common here but a lot don’t know what a longer period of time, as high heat will it’s also delicious in stir-fries, as it balances to do with it because it’s actually quite shorten the process and make the yogurt the flavors out, especially in “one dish” bland. But when you braise it in butter and watery. His restaurant also makes paneer, meals. Executive Chef Ninh Cong Dan of the a seasoned stock, it soaks up all that butter a chewy, milky, fresh cheese (no aging Renaissance Riverside Hotel recommends and flavor and almost becomes a different required) and one of the easiest cheeses to stuffing bitter melon with a mince of tofu type of mushroom, tasting like abalone in make at home. “You just take fresh milk and mushroom and seasoned with salt and a way.” By way of preparation, Chef Vinh and boil it, then add a little vinegar. Once pepper before for 15-20 minutes recommends that because of their spongy it thickens, tie it up with a cloth [to strain] or until the bitter melon softens. Top it off texture, mushrooms should never be soaked and then press it with a weight on top,” with a sauce made from pan-fried garlic in water as that will ruin their flavor. says Robin. Because paneer doesn’t melt the and shallots, black bean sauce and minced Instead, use a damp cloth to wipe off any way cheddar or mozzarella does, it keeps tomato. “Bitter melon is very low in calories, dirt. Then either pan-fry them quickly to a tofu-like consistency in soups or curry, however, its pods are rich in phytonutrients achieve a crispy outside, or braise them for like Robin’s Palak Paneer, cubes of paneer like dietary fiber, minerals, vitamins and longer until they soak the juice back up.

37 A Dead Vegetarian Text by MICHAEL ARNOLD Image by Ngoc Tran

One man’s losing battle as an herbivore in Vietnam’s carnivorous My vegetarianism died in Vietnam. here. Overseas, while I’d occasionally been society No, it wasn’t a craving for a steaming bowl goaded for turning up my nose at a perfectly of beef pho that did it, nor the spring rolls good steak, there was at least an implicit – it wasn’t anything like that. It was more recognition of what being a vegetarian was a sense of resignation: that in a country all about. You have an ethical viewpoint, where vegetarianism is embedded so deeply you draw the line somewhere and you stand in the culture, where three quarters of the by what you believe. In my case, I’d been population profess to at least sometimes swayed by both reason and experience; the follow a vegetarian diet and where a Hare Krishnas, for example, used to serve commitment to eating vegetarian meals cheap vegetarian dishes at my university is a major tenet of the dominant religion, and their enthusiasm for preparing clean, avoiding meat was just much too hard. wholesome meals without killing anything It’s hard because there’s a subtle difference was kind of infectious. It was the joy of between what it means to be a vegetarian simply feeling that you were doing the right in the West and what the same thing is thing by not allowing a sentient creature to

38 “People do it to win spiritual favor too – if you want something bad enough, you’ll eat vegetarian”

die just for the sake of your lunch that made Honda, but because, being a vegetarian, they Then again, I didn’t lead a particularly an impression on me. presumed he was probably so malnourished athletic lifestyle at the time and for those I watched all those “I’d rather be naked” he was in danger of keeling over at any who want to be both vegetarians and PETA clips condemning cruelty to animals. moment while driving. She confronted a physically fit, it’s a little different. “It really I read all the literature on how the human similar logic when visiting a friend’s family needs to be managed,” says Nicole. “I’ve physiology is largely herbivorous by nature – home, where, forewarned that she didn’t eat been 70-80 percent vegetarian for the ever tried using your so-called ‘canine’ teeth meat, the hosts thoughtfully prepared an past two years and I feel the difference. and fingernails to kill an animal? I could see omelet for her – but then added pork to it Energy wise, you need to snack more – the the logic in the broader reasoning for leaving because they didn’t want her to go hungry. metabolism is faster, so the energy in your meat behind – 18 percent of the world’s My own vegetarian anecdote is a little more food gets used up faster than it does with greenhouse gases comes from livestock dramatic: when my fiancée asked her father animal proteins. Every three hours, I gotta farming, and although a field of cattle will for his blessing, it wasn’t the fact that I was eat. But you don’t get peaks like you would deliver more nutrient-rich food than a field a foreigner that was a problem, nor anything with a big plate of chicken.” of corn, you still need to devote several other to do with my family background, but “Most vegetarians do actually lack B12”, fields to grow their feed, which is a massive rather, “He seems nice, but how long is this she says. “That would lower your energy drain on resources. One study undertaken vegetarian thing going to drag on for?” and make you less active. If you’re not very in 1997 by Cornell University concluded active anyway, it won’t really affect your the amount of grain used to feed livestock The V-Plan way of life. But being mostly vegetarian for in the US alone would be enough to feed The widespread presumption a vegetarian me definitely does have benefits. Animal 800 million people - about three times the diet is related to undernourishment in products tend to inflame the body, especially country’s entire population. Vietnam seems to trump any concerns about now they’re being fed all those hormones.” All these reasons made sense to me animal welfare here – admittedly, not an Being active without meat does take some – but on a personal level, it was simply issue that gets paid much attention to in a effort and a bit of knowledge of the subject. the feeling that I could make one simple country where human welfare is the larger “From a lifestyle perspective,” adds Nicole, decision to control such an intimate part problem. What that also means, however, is “if I go for a month without eating animal of my life that was the clincher – it was a lot of people here will deliberately turn to proteins, I feel more fatigued. You need to an empowering move. I was proud to be a a more-or-less meat-free diet if they happen know how to supplement your nutrients vegetarian, I enjoyed it, and it became part to want to lose weight. Nicole Hankins of – calcium from your milk, omega 3 from of my mild-mannered character. People in Nutrifort Fitness, who works both as a trainer cauliflower, iron from dark green vegetables my own country who actually knew me got and a nutritionist, has spoken to a surprising like spinach. Soy and quinoa have the most that and they made no attempt to dissuade number of locals who practice vegetarianism complete set of amino acids to substitute for a me from something that was obviously simply in the hope of shedding a few pounds. lack of proteins.” working for me. “It’s not true that are That said, Nicole doesn’t have much But I quickly discovered those kinds of strangers to a vegetarian diet,” says Nicole, time for the Vietnamese preconceptions sentiments hold very little weight here in who has lived and worked in Vietnam about meatless diets. “I don’t think Vietnam. It’s probably precisely for this very for a decade. “There’s actually a big push philosophically it’s something most people reason vegetarianism has such a well-defined towards vegetarianism here from religion. here have really thought about and they role in the local culture that my own brand Most people are vegetarians for a day twice don’t usually know anything about the seemed awfully peculiar to the Vietnamese a month in phase with the moon, when it’s nutritional side of things. The problem is people I met. Local friends presumed I was more or less like giving something up for that here it’s associated with the elderly hungry all the time; if we went out to lunch, Lent. People do it to win spiritual favor too – – thinness and teeth falling out, that sort they’d rather thoughtfully take me to places if you want something bad enough, you’ll eat of thing. There were famines here in the where I could find food without meat, but vegetarian. But most vegetarians I talk to just 70s, and it was difficult to even afford then order meat dishes anyway because they want to lose weight. For a lot of the men and meat then. Now, not eating it just reminds were “delicious,” only to get frustrated when women here, if you want to slim down, that’s people of poverty. Seventy percent of I maintained my stance. I was constantly the direction you go.” Vietnamese people these days are under 30 reminded what a “pity” it was I couldn’t I have to admit I never experienced any and they’re more attracted to Western and enjoy beef and pork. Some people would be weight loss or feeling of malnourishment fast food restaurants – that’s what they’re cool with me telling them I was a vegetarian during the years when I followed a fairly aware of and fascinated by. There’s nothing until I mentioned I wouldn’t eat seafood strict vegetarian way of life. Vegetarian trendy about being a vegetarian.” either – and then they’d give me those propaganda tends to dismiss attempts to For me, I don’t regret giving up the incredulous stares one gets when you’ve claim that by avoiding meat you’re going vegetarian diet too much. I saw my said something that doesn’t compute on any to end up physically deficient in some way. mother-in-law going the extra mile to level. Clearly, if someone can’t grasp why a Any vegetarian who’s done their research prepare separate dinners for me and I saw vegetarian wouldn’t eat a fish, then we’re not will tell you all the nutrients you can expect how uncomfortable it got at the big get- even talking about the same thing. to gain from a hunk of beef can be derived togethers we’d have where we’d all get to I’m not the only one who’s had these from vegetables as well – anything you need a restaurant and they’d discover the only kinds of experiences here. Blogger Tabitha for your food can be synthesized within thing on the menu I could eat was a plain Carvan of The City that Never Sleeps In writes your own body from the building blocks that banh mi. Everyone has to keep their ethics of a particularly towering, brawny British occur naturally in plants. There’s only one in balance and for me, family turned out to expat who was warned by locals not to ride a exception – Vitamin B12 – and you can get be more important than refusing the meat. bike here – not because he was too big for a that from eggs or dietary supplements. Sorry, animals – bad luck.

39 Confessions... of a part-time vegetarian

Text by Tomo Huynh Image by Ngoc Tran

I love food. And while I wouldn't go about myself - but at the same time not figured out creative ways of featuring so far as to call myself a foodie, the idea taste less. plants as the focus of the dish. of depriving myself of meat means to I was exploring an exciting style of During my period as a vegetarian, I miss out on many of the world's awesome traditional Vietnamese cuisine. The city found myself feeling a bit more compassion flavors. But does my taste for meat come is full of vegan or vegetarian restaurants, for animals. Not that I'm making huge at some cost? I knew there were people possible over 100 of them. Most of them sacrifices out of fondness of chickens living alternative lifestyles, ones free from fall into what are called a quan com chay because my neighbor's roosters crowing meat. What if it wasn't that vegetarians and are easy to find in any district of the when I'm trying to sleep annoy me to weren't just missing out on meat, but that city. Just make sure it says “cơm chay” and hell. But I don't ever consider eating my I was the one missing out on something? I not “cơm cháy” (note the tonal mark in neighbor's whining dogs either. think the fact I might be missing out was this spelling) because the latter is a kind I'm not strictly vegetarian, although more important than what I was missing of crispy rice cracker often served with I continue to do week-long stints from out on so I decided to become a vegetarian non-vegetarian meat floss. Aquan com time to time. For those who don't eat meat for a week. chay is a vegetarian eatery with a cart by because meat is , I'm still guilty. As I don't think you can effectively be told the entrance with vegetarian dishes such much as my diet may offend them, I know by others to give up meat. I'd heard the as tofu, mock meats, sautéed vegetables, the animals who die to become part of it arguments before and it wasn’t until now greens, among others, to be eaten with rice. find it even more offensive. But now I am that I felt the need to make the change more deliberate when I choose what I eat. and experiment on myself. Plus, I'd heard Mock Meat I make an effort to eat more vegetables, enough horror stories about meat in While Asians have really pioneered mock more eggs instead of animals that had to Vietnam, about the tons of putrid, rotten meat for some time, I've found some be killed, and fish instead of mammals. I meat still making its way to local markets, meatless-meat dishes to be great and others haven't eliminated suffering from my diet, only occasionally caught by inspectors. tastefully less so. I've had convincing ‘com but I can at least take steps in reducing it. And I've had severe food poisoning on tam,’ a staple morning breakfast in Saigon Ultimately I do this for myself, and there more than one occasion after eating which is a rice dish with grilled pork (all are numerous health benefits to eating all mystery meat wrapped in leaves (bo la lot) faux pork in this case) with shredded pork kinds of plant-based foods. and then blackened to the point anything skin and a slab of pork meatloaf. Other I came to Vietnam partly to experience inside was concealed. It's much easier favorites that convert well to vegetarian new things. There were a few dishes I had to fail to cook meat properly here. Too are cha gio (egg rolls) and canh kho qua been eyeing on the menu at one of my many times I've been served still-raw (bittermelon soup stuffed with meat). favorite vegetarian restaurants last time I chicken, while I willingly and consciously Besides soy-based ‘meat,’ Vietnamese use went. I think I'll go try them now. eat raw beef in my pho. I just try not to wheat gluten (mi can) to make mock meats. think about it too much, which is pretty But I've also had very satisfying meat-like Bio: Tomo Huynh is a technologist and useful (but unhealthy) general advice for mushrooms. There's more to Vietnamese entrepreneur who has spent most of the past living in Vietnam. My motivation wasn't vegetarian cooking than just trying to six years in Vietnam building up e-commerce based on religion or wanting to feel self- approximate meat dishes though. The more businesses such as Taembe.vn. He writes righteous although I can certainly see proper, upscale vegetarian restaurants about the tech and startup scene along with the appeal of looking down on others. will have dozens of choices for appetizers, expat tips at www.saigonist.com and can I wanted to feel better - and feel better soups, salads and main courses. They've be found tweeting as @tomosaigon.

40 Monastic Living Text by james pham Image by Ngoc Tran

The musings of a novice Buddhist monk

Tucked away on a side street off of Highway 13 in Binh Duong, the Hoi Khanh temple is a place for serene meditation. An eight story pagoda overlooks the carefully manicured gardens, a place for supplicants to offer up incense and prayers for the dead. However, it's opposite the street where the Buddhist school is located that devotion finds human form. Under the shadow of the largest reclining Buddha in Vietnam at 52m (eclipsing the 49m reclining Buddha in Mui Ne), lies the Buddhism Center of Binh Duong, home to over 200 novice monks enrolled in the four year program. In the back of the school, a block of concrete rooms faces a bursting lotus pond, a powerful icon in Buddhism, embodying the concept of something perfectly beautiful rising from the quagmire. After Graduation My name is Duc Hanh (meaning “Righteous” or “Virtue”), but that’s not the name I was born with. It’s my new name, given to me when I first came to the pagoda at the age of 15. It’s not like I was a bad kid. I didn't get into fights or anything, but I did like to play and often got into minor trouble. But am when I was 15, I guess you could say I ran away to the monastery. I didn’t mean to, really. I only intended to go for a visit, to help clean the pagoda in Tien Giang g e by j ames ph

ima Province. It was like something drew me

41 there. Soon, one week became two and one an elephant. Everything wants to live. want to get away from the world, run of the monks asked me if I wanted to join All animals fear death. All of us have a away from life, but once you’re here and the program. right to life, a right to share the natural understand the Buddha’s teachings, it’s all I’m 21 now and in my fourth and last environment. Taking a life to sustain a life is different. year at the Buddhist school in Binh Duong, a sin. We’re taught to respect life, whether Most people, once they open their eyes with graduation only two weeks away. It's actively by helping people, even sacrificing in the morning, they think about money summer which is why it’s pretty deserted our own lives if needed, or passively by not ― how to get enough money to live for here. The instructors have a few weeks harming other living creatures. that day, especially for those with families. off. After all our studying, we’re free to The Buddha teaches us balance. For Here in the temple, we don’t think about perform our prayers and relax on the instance, your eye, your nose, your body money. We think about how to contribute grounds. [On this hot afternoon, some belongs to the outside world. If you see a to society, how to better ourselves. In the monks are fiddling with their phones as pretty girl, she becomes a temptation and outside world, you only look after yourself, others go about their chores of sweeping you stop thinking about consequences. A but here, you look after many other people. and laundry.] girl wearing perfume spawns illicit desire. It’s not all easy, though. Even here, On an average day, though, we get up at The smell of food can make one greedy. your mind is never fully at peace. We 3:30 in the morning and pray for an hour. But the Buddha teaches us to gain mastery can't go out, mingle with society. Life is You have to get used to waking up early over our senses to the point where even a rigid. Sometimes, you may want to eat here. And the bells. There are bells ringing beautiful woman looks average. We learn something, but you can’t. Even sitting still constantly. to put things aside, not hold grudges. It’s for an hour during prayers can be hard. Come 5:30, it’s time for breakfast. We actually a very practical way to live. But those things don’t matter. Life is gather in the pagoda on the other side of the But you were asking me about my day. temporary. Our bodies are temporary. street and prayers begin and end the meal. From 7:00, we learn our lessons. Twelve We’re born, we grow old, we get sick, we Breakfast is sometimes hu tiu, bun rieu, subjects in a year: English, Chinese, die. We’re continually in a state of flux. At banh canh [variations of Vietnamese noodle culture, law… but nothing ‘outside’ like least here, lots of people love you. You have soups] or xoi [glutinous rice] ― whatever Geography or Math. The rest are religious no quibbles with anyone. the faithful bring in that day. Of course, it’s classes. We also have computer classes, but After graduation, some of my friends will vegetarian only ― vegetables and tofu. At not everyone has a computer, so we can't leave to become monks in pagodas around the beginning, it was hard to get used to. I always practice. Out of my class of 20, only the country while others will simply return remember getting hungry much faster. But seven or eight have a computer. to their previous lives. But all of us will afterwards, your stomach gets used to it. I At 10:30am, we prepare to have lunch. leave changed somehow. Personally, I feel don’t want to go back to eating meat. Just Then a nap at noon, and we review our more at peace with myself. These past few the smell now makes me sick. lessons in the afternoons. years, I've done a lot of growing up. I know the Buddha wasn’t a vegetarian At 4:30pm, we use donations to start After graduation, I think I'm going to himself. He ate whatever alms he collected preparing dinner. Then it’s prayers for an continue with the program for another because food was just a means to an end. hour until 7:30pm. The temple gates close at three years at a school in District 9. After But that was a different place, a different 8pm, so no one can leave after that. There's that, who knows? Life is a journey. You time. Buddhism is all about mercy and not much to do around here, anyway. can always set your destination, but you a respect for life, whether it’s a worm It’s a good life, living at the pagoda. At never really know if you're going to make in the soil or a grasshopper or a cow or first, some people may join because they it there.

42 Wine & Dine IMAGE BY ADAM ROBERT YOUNG

Embutidos Viva! Tapas Bar & Grill

43 restaurant review Eat Your Vegetables Vegetarian diners don't have to subsist on salad alone Text by Julian Ajello Images by Adam Robert Young

Did you hear the one about the bustling streets of Saigon to simple, placid deep fried spring rolls (VND75,000) filled rutabaga? No, probably not. Vegetables surroundings perfect for a relaxing meal. with three kinds of mushrooms (chicken don’t tend to inspire great jokes. On the Starting off with cocktails is always leg mushrooms, button, and black contrary, they conjure their very own the right move, and …hum offers some mushrooms) along with carrots, glass brand of humorlessness, the tight-lipped interesting twists on old favorites. The noodles, and black pepper and served officiousness of grim nutritionists that is kumquat mojito and cucumber and ginger with a vegetarian version of fish sauce for captured in the phrase “eat your vegetables.” martini both proved refreshing, not an oft- dipping. The first thing you’ll notice is the As it happens, not only can vegetarian food used adjective for alcoholic beverages. The black pepper popping in your mouth. The be far better than the dispiriting notion of martini in particular was a striking blend mushrooms are cooked to perfection, and a pile of raw vegetation, it can be exquisite of sweet kumquat and spicy ginger that when balanced with the glass noodles and when done well. makes you forget that it’s a cocktail. For carrots they stood out. The texture, the Enter …hum (32 Vo Van Tan, D3), an those wishing to eschew the booze, order taste, and the fact that they were deep- eatery devoted to serving vegetarian food the kumquat and mint beverage, it’s crisp, fried made them moorish. Having two to please the senses. …Hum derives its fresh, and delicious. orders is advisable. name from the Buddhist mantra “om mani Not knowing our way around As we basked in the after-glow of padme hum,” which can be interpreted in a a vegetarian menu, we asked for the spring rolls, the salad a la …hum variety of ways, but the literal translation recommendations. The manager selected (VND70,000) made their way to the table. is “behold the jewel in the lotus”. Crossing some of their signature dishes for us to Their signature salad consisted of sliced the threshold whisks you from the enjoy. We started off with the square, papaya, carrots, baby tomatoes, peanuts,

Deep fried vegetables Pad Thai

44 and green beans. Everything about this to see what a vegetarian place was capable dish is fresh and it definitely has a kick of producing. While I have a strong anti- provided by the spicy, chili vinaigrette tofu bias, it mixed well with the eggs, dressing. The papaya counters it with crushed peanuts and sprouts. To our tanginess that will make you pucker, but delight, the noodles came out wonderfully. only a little. It felt like good Pad Thai in just about The seasonal fried vegetables every way that’s important. While the The first thing you’ll (VND85,000) included sake, tarot, green texture of the noodles is most often the notice is the black beans, and sweet potatoes. Their batter is Achilles’ heel of Pad Thai around the city, akin to tempura, so they’re light. If you …hum’s chef has figured a way to get it pepper popping enjoy tempura these are right in your right, albeit without chicken. wheelhouse and should be consumed Keeping us on the Thai side of their in your mouth. with gusto. They’re served with a plum menu, we rounded out the meal with sauce for dipping. It’s a tad viscous, steamed mushrooms served in a coconut The mushrooms which is a bit of a surprise, but so sweet (VND85,000). Easily the most interesting you’ll find yourself dredging the bottom item we tried, it combined lingzhi are cooked to of the ramekin hoping to get that last mushrooms, eggs, and chili in a sweet perfection, and dollop onto your final sweet potato. If coconut milk curry served in a coconut that wasn’t enough to make eating your husk. The curry is a great rendition of the when balanced with vegetables fun, they arrive in an edible familiar Thai staple and has just enough oil tarot basket that’ll make you wish you had to be naughty without making you feel bad. the glass noodles saved some of that plum sauce. The coconut meat inside lends a sweetness to balance out the chili’s spiciness. One and carrots they All Thai’d Up order was enough for us as we were losing Pad Thai (VND80,000) was something we steam by this point in the meal. stood out hadn’t expected. The manager explained Of course the health benefits of that the head chef, who is Vietnamese, vegetarian cuisine are obvious and lived in Thailand for seven years and something to consider. But it’s because absorbed a great deal of knowledge about …hum places good taste and enjoyment the cuisine there. Having not yet had a ahead of religion and morality that their satisfying Pad Thai in Saigon, I was curious food sparkles.

Signature salad Steamed mushrooms in coconut

45 restaurant review

taste,” says Logan. “Hickory produces a bite, not quite as strong as mesquite, which is great for beef and pork, but with poultry, you need fruitwoods which impart a slightly The Religion sweet flavor to chicken and ,” adds Mark. “And forget liquid smoke. That’s just sacrilegious,” they agree. Hailing from Clinton, Oklahoma, a blink-and-you’ll-miss-it town of less of Barbecue than 10,000, but squarely in the southern Barbeque Belt and anchored by renowned Jiggs Smokehouse (“So good, they open and TnT BBQ is making new converts close whenever they want,” recalls Logan), he knows a thing or two about barbeque. Text by James Pham Images by Ngoc Tran Mark is from California, via Chicago, and takes his inspiration from BBQ festivals like the nearby Great Eldorado BBQ, Brews and People say that if you want to start a sauces they use packing the heat of chili Blues Festival in Reno (Nevada). fight in the US South, just bring up football, powder and cayenne pepper). Their collective but varied experience religion or barbeque. It’s been described Part science, part art, the science comes means the duo don’t subscribe to any one as a metaphor for American culture, this through in the delicate balance of particular style of barbecue. Instead their worship at the altar of “Low and Slow,” with the meat just right, a balanced equation of “goal is to make things taste as good as they parishioners fervently divided between hardwoods imported from the US and the possibly can. If that takes more butter, then the four denominations of barbeque styles: “low and slow” philosophy ― controlled it takes more butter,” say the pair, proudly Texas, with its “naked” barbeque (sauce temperatures over 16-17 hours for brisket, unapologetic. After all, one does not live on served on the side) and preference for beef; smoking the meat just so, tinkering with vegetables alone. Sometimes, it’s simply soul Memphis, known for its wet marinated moisture and heat so the wood smokes but fulfilling to chomp into something that once pork ribs; Kansas City, with its thick, spicy, doesn’t ignite. The friends import apple had a face and a family, smoked to the point tomato-and-molasses-based sauce; and wood and hickory, eschewing local products of being impossibly tender, then slathered in Carolina, featuring every part of the pig like cashew and sugar cane. “We want to sauce. “People talk about ribs that fall off the mixed with a tangy vinegary sauce. stay true to what we do and that’s doing bone, but really, it should break off easily, Thirty-somethings Logan Tisdal and Mark barbeque exactly how it tastes in America. but not fall off. Nothing will make you lose Ton are aiming to make converts to the best We want someone to bite into what they're a competition faster than that,” says Logan. of America’s barbeque with TnT BBQ (a used to, and not just say that it tastes The pair should know. A trophy sits in their combination of the first letters of their last something like back home. Without using kitchen, a testament to a second place finish names, and a reference to the dynamite real hardwoods, you simply can't get that earlier this year in a rib-off, beating out the

46 worthy likes of Hog’s Breath, Al Fresco’s and Quan Ut Ut. “If we’re going to take the time to cook The Holy Trinity TnT BBQ is applying the “low and slow” something that long, we don’t want people to philosophy to its business model as well. Since opening 10 months ago, the pair feel cheated. Why charge people for a quarter decided to start off as delivery only (order via phone at 0166 666 7858 or Facebook kilo of chicken and have half of it be bone?” at tntbbqvietnam). There are only seven mains on the menu, including a quartet of sandwiches: the hickory smoked pulled pork (VND95,000), true to its North Carolina imported chicken because “if we’re going to garlic mashed potatoes and cornbread roots, including molasses made on site; take the time to cook something that long, (popular with a customer in Binh Duong the smoked beef brisket (VND130,000) we don’t want people to feel cheated. Why who always orders one or two pans' worth) smothered in TnT original sauce and charge people for a quarter kilo of chicken and some with a twist like the spicy potato served on a bun, truly a labor of love after and have half of it be bone? It’s also safer salad with cayenne and paprika and corn 15-17 hours in the smoker; the apple wood because it goes through the USDA process. on the cob grilled with herb butter, all to be smoked chicken breast (VND110,000), We’re feeding people we know ― people washed down with American favorites of topped with a tangy southwest ranch sauce we play sports with. We want to have food Kool-Aid or Dr. Pepper. and crunchy bacon bits; and the apple that’s safe and good for everyone,” they say The pair also have plans to add wood smoked turkey breast (VND110,000), of the added expense. homemade sausage soon, “to complete the a generously portioned sandwich that’s at Outside the shop, the smokers are going holy trinity of barbecue,” says Mark (ribs, once firm but juicy, hard to do considering at full capacity, the largest one able to brisket and sausage), and are finalizing a how easy it is to dry poultry breasts out accommodate 80 kgs of ribs. And if there’s dine-in location for later this year. because they have no bone or fat. Topped one menu item that’s truly a standout, it’s As a food, everything about barbeque, with cranberry sauce and the shop’s original the hickory smoked pork ribs where the art from its rich flavors to choice cuts of meat sauce, it’s basically Thanksgiving in your of barbecue really shines through. First, the to it being the ultimate sharing food, makes mouth, guaranteed to elicit some Hallelujahs shop’s original sauce adds the sour notes it a religion worth joining. “Barbecue alone or at the very least, expressions of rapture. courtesy of sweet apple cider vinegar and encompasses the high- and lowbrows, the TnT BBQ’s apple wood smoked chicken ketchup. A rub gives it some saltiness and sacred and the profane, the urban and the (either Original or Dynamite, marinated in a a secret final layer imparts the tanginess, rural, the learned and the unlettered, the teriyaki sauce amped up with roasted garlic, culminating in a slap-you-into-next- blacks, the browns, the yellows, the reds, chili powder and cayenne, both VND50,000 Tuesday goodness. and the whites,” writes Lolis Eric Elie in per drumstick or thigh) is nothing short of Sides complete the menu (VND35,000 Smokestack Lightning. Amen and pass the heavenly. The duo has chosen to use only US each) with well made classics like coleslaw, corn bread.

47 restaurant review

Some nights are unforgettable; they have a permanence about them that can rise to the surface even decades beyond the Memories morning after. For new restaurateur Jeff Noble, that memorable night occurred during his student days while travelling through Andalusia with friends – and it was then that he first fell in love with . “We’d managed to get lost somewhere of Granada around Granada late at night,” he remembers. “We stopped in a village that still had some A new tapas restaurant offering the flare lights on. It turned out that the son of a local bar owner was getting married a couple of and flavors of Spain in Phu My Hung days later, and it was effectively his stag night. As soon as they saw our beat-up old Text by Michael Arnold Images by Adam Robert Young car with British registration, they invited us in. We didn’t pay for a thing the whole evening – they were bringing out little tapas, local specialities, garlic roasted almonds and some of the best sangria I ever remember having, and we probably stayed there until about two o’clock in the morning. By that time we were in no fit state to drive, and so they put us up for the night. I thought really, this informal kind of ‘everybody’s welcome’ culture, and all those little snacky things that are each quite tasty in their own right – I think that’s what I really enjoy about Spain, and in some sense, that’s what we’re trying to create here.” That anecdote is essentially all you need to know about Viva! Tapas Bar & Grill (R4-28 Hung Gia 4, Tan Phong, D7), Phu My Hung’s newest open-late venue. Best described as something in between a bar and a restaurant, you can treat it as either – sit yourself down at one of the tables for a feast of various tapas specialties, or stand at one of the leaning benches with a few good mates and enjoy some of the cheekier numbers from the wine list (tip - go for the hand-selected good stuff) or classics from the top shelf. The venue was kick-started months ago as Chau’s Seafood and Grill after Jeff’s confidence in his original tapas concept wavered at seeing the number of superb existing tapas bars already operating in the city. It was only later on that he started to see he still had a niche to fill. “When you travel around Spain,” he says, “what you find with tapas is that there are similar dishes, but there are also regional variations. Whenever I’ve visited the tapas bars here, I’ve tried all the standards – you know, the garlic prawns, and all the meatballs – but I’ve seen very little of the regional stuff. In Andalusia, for example, you can see there’s a distinct Moorish influence. So with our menu we decided to include things like Moroccan lamb, Andalusian beef , orange and bean salads – food like that. I’ve never seen them on any of the menus anywhere else here in the Spanish-style restaurants. So I thought, let’s give people something with a different taste. I want to give tapas fans here something they’ve never tried before.” The resulting menu is unusually extensive and features the best of the regional cuisine. Explore at will – you could dine here for a month and have a different ensemble of Black pepper beef pinchos flavors each night – but do keep an eye out

48 FROM TOP: Prawns in chili, Duck Rillete on toast, Mini-pizza de Berenjena con toncino for the Andalusian highlights. The bean & orange salad (VND65,000) is an obvious refreshment item in this hot weather, while the duck rillette on toast (VND65,000) is a salute to the traditional French shredded preserved meat on crostini. The embutidos cold cut platter (VND105,000) is a fine salami and sausage selection of classic meats, while the black pepper beef pinchos (VND95,000) are a fiery shish kebab common to the north of Spain – try the lamb for a more Andalusian touch. Another must-try regional dish is the Andalusia beef stew (VND85,000), steeped in genuine moorish spices sourced from a local importer. Probably the best-loved item on the menu is one of Jeff’s own creations – the mini-pizza de Berenjena con toncino (VND65,000). A ratatouille sauce on roasted aubergines, this is a hybrid of a couple of regional tapas items that should be a classic of the genre – and with the soft textures of the eggplant, it’s possibly more addictive than pizza itself. Of course, if you want to stick with the classics, the prawns in chilli (VND85,000) and deep- fried squid (VND85,000) will stand out for their freshness, particularly the former with its Spanish twist on a dish otherwise familiar to the Vietnamese palate. Spanish Blood The indisputable accompaniment to a tapas feast is sangria, but don’t feel like a heathen if you’re just enjoying the beer (and if you do, make sure you snack on the deep-fried olives (olivos fritas, VND45,000), a rare treat far classier and tastier than a plate of fries). People often overestimate the prevalence of sangria on the Iberian peninsula – Spaniards, like anyone else, generally take beer in their bars too. There’s no denying, however, that sangria is the sunshine in the Spanish soul; and yet, as a cocktail of fruit and wine, it may as well have been created for Vietnam – laced with a selection of local tropical fruit, Viva!’s house sangria will see you stumbling home with stars in your eyes. There are two selections, both of which come in half-liter (VND130,000) and full-liter (VND240,000) carafes; the bloodied variety uses red wine, cognac, and orange juice along with the soda water and fruit salad, while the sangria blanca swaps in white wine & apple juice. Both beverages sing of happy nights spent at the tavernas, many miles away from this place and yet somehow nearer for the emergence of this unusual venue. Dim-lit and washed in cobalt blue, just as a moody Mediterranean restaurant should be, there’s actually a lot of Hispanic sunshine in this place – do keep an eye on it in the months to come, as Jeff’s next plans for the venue include a street-side café for daylight hours where you’ll be able to enjoy café solo by the bodega on lazy afternoons, just as the Spanish do.

49 The List

Atexpats is Ho Chi Minh City's first truly Wine & Dine comprehensive insider's guide for foreign residents Harvest Savouré Bakery 31 Ly Tu Trong, D1 bakeries Shops have a wide selection of cookies, 3824 3483 Harvest Baking offers a delivery-based sweet and savory breads and cakes [email protected] ABC Bakery & Cafe bakery service with a charitable focus, including cashew chocolate, taro and www.bluegeckosaigon.com The bakery serves more than 30 teaching young Vietnamese hopefuls orange. Custom cakes can be ordered for different baked products ranging from how to bake delicious breads and cakes weddings and holidays. Bootleg DJ Café baguettes to pizza slices, along with a through their food training program. Unit E3, 1st Floor, Saigon Tax Trade Centre, wide selection of drinks such as coffee 30 Lam Son, Tan Binh 135 Nguyen Hue, D1 Modern, moody, and minimalist cafe bar and fruit juices. 3547 0577 3914 3773 with reasonable prices by day, chic lounge 223-225 Pham Ngu Lao, D1 harvestbaking.net www.savourebakery.com with DJs playing by night. Has a limited 7am - 5pm Monday-Saturday menu of sandwiches and other health- Bread Talk Tous Les Jours conscious Italian fare. With a mission to revitalize the once-stale Kinh Do Bakery 9 Le Thanh Ton, D1 business of bread, Singaporean BreadTalk A Korean owned French-style bakery 090 760 9202 now has outlets throughout Asia and Kinh Do Bakery makes reasonably priced franchise serving fresh baked bread and [email protected] has established itself in several HCMC baked goods to-go, such as cakes and popular pastries, all baked on-site. locations. A brand partnership with Gloria cupcakes, tarts, sandwiches, Vietnamese 180 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Boston Sports Bar Jeans has seen a wide range of bakery “banh bao”, Western-style hamburgers 3823 8302 goods available in the cafés, with both and mini-pizzas and gelatin-based Located in the heart of the backpacker brands sharing the premises at this desserts. area, Boston Sports Bar is open 24 hours location. bars 128A Hai Ba Trung, D1 and provides guests with a modern 106 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 3829 6552 bar-going experience. The bar boasts a 3930 3181 kinhdobakery.vn Ahoy Beer Club pool table, live sports on LCD TVs, and Recently opened, this nautical themed western food. Brodard Bakery La Doree bar serves local and imported beer 28/4 Bui Vien, D1 Providing patrons with over 50 varieties of along with food served by wait staff in 6656 6338 Brodard Bakery has been operating in cakes, along with a rich sandwich menu sailor outfits. Saigon for over 30 years. It provides finely from luxurious French-designed premises. 79 Nguyen Cong Tru, D1 Broma Saigon Bar crafted cakes for all occasions in addition La Doree is the best place in town for to ice cream, pastries, chocolate and tarts. macaroons. Allez Boo 95 Nguyen Hue, D1 Famously known for 'not being a bar' 216 Ly Tu Trong, D1 3821 2416 Broma is one of Ho Chi Minh City's most 3822 1718 A popular bar in Saigon featuring tropical 6am - 10pm popular hangouts with prices ranging www.ladoree.com bamboo decor, multiple levels and a DJ spinning funky beats. This unique bar from VND30,000 - VND500,000. Broma Cheesecake Ngon Oi’s Pick L’amour Bakery & Cafe offers a wide range of beers, shakes, is a more upscale option for those wishing Cheesecake Ngon is a small boutique- More than just another bakery, L’amour spirits cocktails and food throughout to escape the cheap drinks in The Pham. style cheesecake shop. They use only is the perfect place for those whom are the day. 41 Nguyen Hue, D.1 top quality local and imported ingredients looking for respite from busy HCMC. 187 Pham Ngu Lao, D1 3823 6838 that give their cakes their signature This patisserie offers a large selection of 6291 5424 [email protected] smooth, creamy taste. They can provide European cake and pastry, fresh juice and cheesecakes for all occasions: birthdays, coffee. You will also find pastas, salads, Alpha Cargo Bar functions, cafe/restaurant supply or and sandwiches, ideal for lunch time. Alpha is a sports bar recently opened on Cargo Bar is a dedicated music and even just a single slice. With a range of Open from 6am – 10:30pm the first level of The Manor. Offers weekly arts venue designed and committed to flavors including passionfruit, raspberry, promotions such as Manor Mondays delivering diverse entertainment, along strawberry, lemon, coconut and of 24 Hai Ba Trung D1 (happy hour all day for Manor residents), with a good drink menu. course original and a price starting at Nhu Lan Bakery Teacher Tuesdays (happy hour all day 7 Nguyen Tat Thanh, D4 VND40,000 per slice. for teachers), Thirsty Thursdays (two for 44 Truong Quyen, D3 One of the most famous and prestigious one on all cocktails), Sport Saturdays Carmen Bar www.cheesecakesnow.com local brands of bakeries in the city, Nhu 3610 0211 Lan Bakery supplies bakery products, (screening sports from around the world) Carmen Bar features a small cavern-like cakes, bread, ham, sausage, poultry, and on Sundays movie nights by the entrance with rough rock walls decorated Fly Cupcake roasted pork, and dried foods. pool and a roast dinner. with ambient lighting. With an exclusive The shop specializes in various flavors 50 Ham Nghi, D1 The Manor, Level 1, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, range of drinks and cocktails, guests of cupcakes. 3829 2970 Binh Thanh can relax while enjoying tunes from an 74E Hai Ba Trung, D1 www.nhulan.vn excellent Flamenco band. 06 Pham Ngoc Thach, D1 Bernie’s Bar & Grill 8 Ly Tu Trong, D1 www.flycupcake.vn Pacey Cupcakes This cozy little bakery features elegant An Irish bar and restaurant serving Givral décor and offers 12 kinds of cupcakes international cuisine like pizza, burgers, The cakes and tradition of this unique daily, located near the cathedral in a hip, pasta and more. Celebrates happy hour cake shop have captivated generations modern setting. from 5 to 7pm, and frequently provides of Vietnamese customers. With many 53G Nguyen Du, D1 live music. outlets throughout the city, this particular 3823 3223 19 Thai Van Lung, D1 store was reopened in 2010 on its original [email protected] 3822 1720 site at Vincom A, built on the old Eden www.paceycupcakes.com complex. Blanchy’s Tash 171 Dong Khoi, D1 Paris Baguette This cocktail lounge is a perfect place to 3822 8659 Korean chain Paris Baguette offers fresh relax with friends, meet with colleagues or Cavern Pub www.saigongivral.com baked products such as cakes, pastries, just enjoy a cocktail or two. With plenty of Live band entertains a crowd of locals, 6am - 10pm bread, as well as assorted coffee and seating around the central bar as well as expats, foreigners every night. The bar tea drinks. They also serve sandwiches tables for couples or larger groups, plus a also shows sport channels on a large Gourmand Shop and salads. more intimate VIP area with comfortable TV screen. Nguyen Thi Minh Khai corner Cao Thang, D1 sofas, you will find the right space for any Live music every night from 9:30pm-1am A traditional delicatessen shop featuring Vincom Center A, 171 Dong Khoi, D1 occasion.

19 Dong Du, D1 ats 2 Cao Thang, D3 95 Hai Ba Trung, D1 freshly baked baguettes, croissants, 090 826 5691 chocolate breads, charcuteries, pastries, www.parisvn.com www.blanchystash.com te xp A finest macaroons and other French 090 902 8293 delicacies prepared daily. Special products Pat’a Chou imported from France are also available French-style bakery with charming décor. Blue Gecko Chill Skybar such as French oysters, Damman Freres Specializing in baguettes, fresh croissants Offers the most stunning panoramic luxury tea, and a range of authentic of various varieties, small quiches, and Blue Gecko provides a classic bar views of Saigon and a wide range of products. cakes for every occasion. experience complete with a pool table, wines and cocktails personally prepared Ground floor, Sofitel Saigon Plaza 74B Hai Ba Trung, D1 darts board, cold beer and friendly staff. by Vietnam mixologist Le Thanh Tung. 17 Le Duan, D1 3824 8179 Guests can watch live sports and relax in Rooftop, AB Tower, 76A Le Lai, D1

3824 1555 5am - 10pm the comfortable ambience of the bar. www.chillsaigon.com ©2014 Co pyri g ht L istin g s

LEGEND: Wi-Fi Delivery Credit Card Dendau Privileges Apply 50 Boudoir Lounge oval bar or on luxurious padded benches. Ginger 60 Ice Blue It has a full cocktail menu as well as a Designed to look like a lived-in yet short menu of snacks and sandwiches. A low-key expat bar with an extensive A small, atmospheric, emphatically immaculately styled Parisien home with 158 Dong Khoi, D1 drink menu and live music in a friendly English-style pub, Ice Blue is a popular plush leather sofas, silk cushions and atmosphere. meeting place for Ho Chi Minh City’s Cloud 9 Rooftop Lounge 60 Ton That Thiep, D1 velvet armchairs, Boudoir Lounge serves expats with reasonably priced drinks, 093 772 1011 up everything from afternoon tea to friendly staff and a cozy atmosphere. Located near Turtle Lake, this stunning bar evening cocktails along with signature Great place to play darts. offers panoramic views of Saigon. Guests Go2 dishes for any occasion from informal can peruse an extensive international 54 Dong Khoi, D1 meals and business lunches to gourmet wine list or choose from an array of Go2 is a popular nightspot in the canapés accompanying evening drinks. backpackers area. This two level bar offers creative cocktails and international beers. Kim’s Tavern Ground floor, Saigon Sofitel Plaza dancing, shisha, and a streetside view Level 6&7, Hai Nam Building, 2 Bis Cong 17 Le Duan, D1 with comfortable seating. The bar also An expat bar on the edge of the Truong Quoc, D3 has a pool table and extensive western 3824 1555 downtown shopping district renowned for 090 944 5544 food menu. friendly, attractive staff, cold beer, and a Brotzeit German Bier Bar & 187 De Tham, D1 Restaurant Cold Beer Club relaxed ‘local pub’ environment. The bar features Beer of the Day Hair of the Dog 20 Huynh Thuc Khang, D1 Promotion all day, and also offers a 2 for A large space creating an interesting 090 777 5141 The HCMC venue is in the flashy Kumho 1 deal on the beer of the day. Prices start bar with an alfresco sidewalk area complex on the edge of the central at VND30,000. The upstairs room can downstairs, and an upper lounge area Last Call Oi’s Pick district, and features a wide 24-meter accommodate big groups. overlooking the lower bar that allows restaurant frontage on the mezzanine 64 Ton That Thiep, D1 for a view of the DJ station. If it follows A fine hole-in-the-wall cocktail bar in the level and a contemporary and chic setting its Hanoi theme, it will be a DJ music- 3914 3999 centre of town opposite the Sheraton with German-inspired wooden benches focused nightclub. Hotel, Last Call is a 70's themed lounge and a long wooden bar counter. Serving 194 Bui Vien, D1 Eon51 with a permanent neon glow. Now one authentic Bavarian cuisines and premium Eon51 includes a fine dining restaurant, a of the most popular expat/hip local late beers. Hard Rock Café champagne lounge, a cigar bar and a heli evening bars, with a small deck from 39 Le Duan, D1 pad cocktail bar. Spread on three levels, Memorabilia from Hard Rock’s iconic which to overlook the nightlife set on 9822 4206 Eon51 is a destination for bespoke private collection adorns the walls of Hard Rock Dung Du. brotzeit.co/kumholink and corporate events in Saigon. Café Ho Chi Minh City and there is live 59 Dong Du, D1 Levels 51-52, Bitexco Financial Tower, 2 Hai music most nights. Located in the Kumho 3823 3122 Chilli Pub Saigon Oi’s Pick Trieu, D1 Plaza complex. 6291 8751 39 Le Duan, D1 A fun place to unwind, with cold drinks, 6291 7595 Le Pub good music (customers can choose the Game On Oi’s Pick www.hardrockcafe.vn In a brawny Australian snub to the effete music) friendly staff, light pub food, weekly Opened in July, Game On is Saigon’s 11.30am - 2am ats quiz night (Mondays), darts and televised newest and biggest sports bar that serves vestiges of French Colonialism that Heaven Bar Saigon pervade in Saigon, Le Pub is a hearty te xp sport. Try a challenge shot from the big breakfast, lunch and dinner. The bar also A Chilli on the bartop. has an extensive drink menu that includes Oz-styled pub proudly located in a small Standing out from other nightclubs, 104 Ho Tung Mau, D1 , juices, beers, wines, vodkas and alleyway between Pham Ngu Lao and Bui Heaven Bar impresses their guests with Vien st, Opposite the Chua Au lac arch, 09 8376 3372 more. Besides being a good place to nice decor in tone of red and blue, a broad where it is a magnet for backpackers and [email protected] watch games, Game On also boasts a range of sparkling drinks, Ladies’ night, function room for corporate meetings or awesome DJ at weekend, and many blokey expats. The manager and staff are Chu Bar private parties. exciting events for expats. friendly enough too, I suppose. 115 Ho Tung Mau, D1 8 Le Quy Don, D3 175/22 Pham Ngu Lao, D1 At this beautiful, laid back venue, tourists 6251 9898 090 534 3316 3837 7679

©2014 Co pyri g ht L istin g s and locals alike can sit around Chu’s large [email protected] www.barsaigonheaven.com www.lepub.org

51 Lion Brewery and Restaurant Saigon Saigon Bar Vasco’s Boulevard Cafe The brewery offers its signature Lion beer, brewed by its German master In wartime Saigon, the rooftop of Stylish bar, restaurant and cocktail lounge This Parisian-style cafe has a fine, white brewer, who trained in , along the Caravelle hotel was one of the in a converted colonial style house. tone and a warm ambiance that attempts with other kinds of beer. The Lion most popular drinking holes in the European and Asian fare downstairs a look of luxury with its plush sofas and restaurant has two banquet halls that city for foreign journalists and expat with extensive wine list and cocktails. DJs chandeliers. can accommodate 530 persons. embassy staff – and it remains one perform upstairs at night. 98 Phan Xich Long, Phu Nhuan 11-13 Cong Truong Lam Son, D1 of the most sought-out casual tourist 74/7D Hai Ba Trung, D1 Long Phi attractions in the city today. Panoramic 3824 2888 Bukafe - Cafe One of the staples in the backpacker views of Saigon can still be obtained www.vascosgroup.com district, Long Phi is a no-frills bar that on the garden terrace despite all the This quaint cafe offers a Japanese style doubles as a cheap diner serving some construction, and efforts have been Wine Embassy setting with chairs that have you seated fairly decent French and European made to preserve the original character For those looking to relax and enjoy a on the ground. While offering elegant cuisine. of the venue with its multiple ceiling glass of wine after work, Wine Embassy is drinks and tasty simple dishes, make 207 Bui Vien, D1 fans, subdued decor, and quietly the perfect place with wine specialists and sure to catch the live bands. It won't set 3837 2704 romantic atmosphere with oil candles an interactive menu to help you pair your you back much either with inexpensive on the table tops. wine with crafted food. drinks. Lush 19 Lam Son Square, D1 13 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 43 Nguyen Huu Cau, D1 Lush has a highly distinctive, modern 3823 4999 3824 7827 090 265 2635 look, with different areas catering to www.wineembassy.com.vn [email protected] different needs, including a VIP space Saigon Retro Oi’s Pick 4pm till late with plush couches for chatting with hot 11am - late new friends. Café Ban Sonate One of the newest expat bars on the 2 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Cafe Ban Sonate is a peaceful haven, block, offering friendly bar service. Live Xu Bar tucked away from the boisterous noise Number Five Bar sport on screen, including English Premier A cocktail hot spot with Coconut Martinis, of the city. This cafe offers elegant decor Number Five Bar has become notorious League. Cranelo Sparkles and Passion Fruit along with indoor and outdoor seating for its “all you can drink” draught tiger 113 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Caprioska on offer along with a variety options. beer offer. Attractive waitresses are 6278 2349 of tapas with DJs and drink specials 53 Dang Dung, D1 always enthusiastic contestants on the throughout the week. 3290 6004 billiards table. Shots Bar 71-75 Hai Ba Trung, D1 44 Pasteur, D1 A corner bar on Bui Vien that, along with www.xusaigon.com Caffe Fresco drinks, serves a variety of food such as O’Brien’s Oi’s Pick seafood, pork and chicken dishes. A new player on the scene currently Two-storey Irish-themed bar & 207 Bui Vien, D1 cafés restaurant furnished to high standard. battling for supremacy in the coffee chain O’Brien’s promotes a relaxed, Slate ABC Bakery & Cafe market, Fresco offers a wide range of comfortable atmosphere. Known for its espresso and local coffees, juices and ABC Bakery & Cafe has over 30 excellent food menu, this is a fun place smoothies. Slate takes its name from the dark grey different kinds of baked goods such to socialize while shooting pool, playing 121 Le Loi, D1 slate tiling that covers the floor of the as baguettes, danishes, whole cakes, darts, or chatting with the friendly staff. 3821 1009 entire establishment. A modern, relaxing sliced cakes and even pizza. Together 74/A3 Hai Ba Trung, D1 www.fresco.com.vn spot for an after-dinner drink with an with its range of baked items, it is also onTop Bar extensive martini list and delicious BBQ has Western and Vietnamese coffee Cafe Runam menu. A tad difficult to find above a BMW and juices. Located on the 20th floor of Novotel Cafe Runam (the name loosely comes dealership, but accessible from the hotel it 223 - 225 Pham Ngu Lao, D1 Saigon Centre, onTop Bar provides from a traditional Vietnamese lullaby views over Saigon on the outdoor is worth the effort. www.abcbnc.com song for young children) is a three storey terrace. Offers a menu with over 3rd Floor, Moevenpick Hotel, 253 Nguyen building with the first two floors designed 20 cheeses and Vietnamese and Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Achaya Cafe Oi’s Pick and decorated in detail to offer different international inspired tapas. 3844 9222 atmospheres for customers. The second 167 Hai Ba Trung, D3 5pm - 11pm Achaya Cafe have two floors providing a floor is an intimate coffee lounge with big nice atmosphere for meeting, relaxation Phatty’s sofas and armchairs. Next to the lounge Spotted Cow or party. The menu is extensive A sports bar offering a selection of ice- is a terrace where white wood tables with drinks and Western, Japanese, cold local and imported beers as well and armchairs are surrounded by plants. Hearty , great pub grub, cheap Vietnamese food from sandwiches, as a complete range of tasty pub food. Offers wide range of coffee, cakes as well drinks and the latest sport on TV make spaghetties, pizzas, steak and special Central features are the TVs, connected as set menus. this an appealing destination for tourists Japanese sweet desserts. to an extensive sports channel network. 96 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 of all budgets. Located in the heart of the 90 Le Loi, D1 46-48 Ton That Thiep, D1 08 3825 8883 backpacker district. 093 897 2050 www.caferunam.com Purple Jade 111 Bui Vien, D1 Purple Jade is a stylish and chic venue 3920 7670 Aisha Lounge with exceptional world class cocktails by [email protected] Café Terrace the city’s award-winning bartender along Aisha offers a menu studded with various with snacks to melt away the bustle of Storm P Vietnamese drinks and food – although Cafe Terrace is a popular modern cafe/ the city. Storm P restaurant and bar is named after the belly dance show does evoke the restaurant in the chic Saigon Center. This First floor- InterContinental Asiana Saigon the famous Danish cartoonist Robert spirit of the interior design. cozy, dimly lit cafe offers customers a long Corner of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan Storm Petersen, and it’s the only Danish 63/1 Pasteur, D1 outdoor terrace with views of the bustling 3520 9099 restaurant in Vietnam. 6660 9040 pedestrian and traffic scene. A second www.intercontinental.com/saigon 5B Nguyen Sieu, D1 www.aishalounge.com cafe is located on the first floor amongst 3827 4738 fashion stores. www.stormp.vn AQ Coffee Ground Floor & First Floor, Saigon Centre, Beautiful café situated in one of the city’s 65 Le Loi, D1 The Cube Bar oldest French mansions, serving coffee Besides being a place for drinking and made with traditionally-roasted coffee Cafe Vuon Kieng unwinding, The Cube Bar is also a place beans. where unique, educational and exciting 32 Pham Ngoc Thach, D3 Cafe Vuon Kieng is a quiet, casual cafe events like bartending, modern cuisine, 3829 8344 near the banks of the Saigon River, art crafts, theme parties and live music boasting relaxing views and refreshing take place in a daily basis. Angel-in-us Coffee breezes. This riverside cafe offers jasmine 31B Ly Tu Trong, D1 A sophisticated and classy coffee tea, coffee, ice cream, beer, even cocktails. 09 0336 9798/01 2088 1964 franchise with exemplary attention to 10B Ton Duc Thang, D1 [email protected] detail, Angel-in-us has a pretty angel wing 3823 3279 motif and a quality coffee menu. The Orient Bar 145 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Cake Durian Duiro Its game room features pool table, 3827 8588 RED Bar foosball and darts. Offers free flow of facebook.com/angelinuscoffeevn A chain of cafes selling durian inspired ats RED offers one of the longest Happy

draught Tiger and Sapporo during Happy crepes and buns with prices under te xp

Hours in Saigon, from 9am - 9pm, A VND100,000. with live music available from Monday Hours (5:30-8pm). Serves imported steak Bobby Brewer’s - Saturday. This multi-level bar has and pizza. Kiosk in Le Thi Rieng Park, 875 Cach Mang a non-smoking floor and a function 24 Ngo Van Nam, D1 A contemporary cafe in the backpacker Thang 8, D10 room along with a top quality pool area set over three floors, the cafe 093 333 9365 table and soft-tip dart machines. A Universal Bar Saigon features a large free cinema, a great www.banhsaurieng.com menu of Eastern and Western dishes Offers food, drink specials and cold place for couples. also includes wood-fire pizzas. beers. Play pool upstairs or down by the 45 Bui Vien, D1 Centrofarms Coffee Oi’s Pick 70-72 Ng Duc Ke, District 1 main bar. 3920 4090 This recently opened cafe, located near 2229 7017 90 Bui Vien, D1 www.bobbybrewers.com the airport, sells its own eponymous ©2014 Co pyri g ht L istin g s

LEGEND: Wi-Fi Delivery Credit Card Dendau Privileges Apply 52 brand of Centrofarm organic roasted scrumptious coffee, along with Kebab Cafe Minhu Coffee beans direct from Dalat with indoor and Vietnamese food and dessert. It offers outdoor seating that’s perfect for people breakfast, lunch, dinner and offers delivery The healthiest kebab! Featuring an This specialty cafe offers a wood watching and getting your daily dose as well. The interior is a mix of alternative excellent homemade white sauce, fresh furniture interior setting, which of . and fancy, with wooden furniture, soft veggies and chicken or pork marinated resembles the cabins you would expect 19 Ut Tich, Tan Binh backrest pillows and decorative paintings. without oil. The French owner also serves to see in the western North American 26 Ly Tu Trong, D1 savory and sweet crepes and a home- frontier. Live bands are a regular Chi’s Cafe 090 878 3788 made puree. feature at the cozy cafe and prices are www.facebook.com/fecafe.vn 538/2/8 Doan Van Bo, D4 inexpensive. Chi’s Café is a restaurant serving 7:30am - 11pm 01648 805 915 149/35 Le Thi Rieng, D1 both Western and Vietnamese food [email protected] 3601 9319 in the backpacker area. The menu Gemmi Coffee www.kebab-cafe.com is extensive, with everything from This cafe serves a variety of food like 10am - 10pm Mojo Cafe sandwiches and pizzas to their salads, chicken dish alongside coffees This modern, chic café, restaurant and popular baked potatoes with filling. and other beverages. Provides live solo Kem My bar offers freshly baked homemade 40/31 Bui Vien, D1 piano music every night from 8pm. cakes, pastries, wood fired pizzas, light 3836 7622 193 D3 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 This quiet ice cream shop is the perfect fare and superb coffee and smoothies place for families and couples to indulge Hatvala for dine in or take away. Ciao Cafe Oi’s Pick their sweet tooth. It offers a fresh release 88 Dong Khoi, D1 from the heat of Ho Chi Minh City. 08 3827 2828 This tea house, coffee shop and 11 Duong 41, D4 An icon in downtown HCMC, Ciao cafe ww.mojosaigon.com features two floors serving simple food, restaurant offers selected, quality 093730 3030 coffee, smoothies and ice cream – and Vietnamese tea and coffee to drink or to www.kemmy.vn MTV Cafe buy as leaves and beans. They also have 3.30pm - 11pm an opulent lounge bar on the top floor. a delightful all day casual dining area in Antique tiles mix with velvet curtains Providing a relaxing atmosphere after their stylish bistro. Kesera and stylish paintings to make this a a hard day’s work with some of the top 44 Nguyen Hue, D1 memorable chill out environment. hits out today, MTV cafe is the perfect 3824 1534 A cozy and friendly café/bar serving 74-76 Nguyen Hue, D1 place to unwind with that special 8am - 11pm coffee, beer, wines, freshly- baked 40 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 someone or just a cup of coffee. [email protected] homemade cakes and delicious 65 Vo Van Tan, D3 www.hatvala.com Western food. Cosmo Lounge 3930 2597 www.facebook.com/hatvala 26/1 Le Thanh Ton, D1 keserakesera.com mtvcafe.com.vn Cosmo Lounge is a popular location Hi-End Coffee for stylish and trendy locals and expats Kopi Beans MZ Coffee alike. Chill out in a bold blue and white A cafe in a colonial villa that was built Located near the leafy Tao Dan Park, Hi- environment with local and European in the early 20th century. It boasts a End Coffee is one of a few venues serving Kopi Beans Cafe is a favorite among cafe food and a broad selection of coffees broad selection of coffee, from fine up just as much music as caffeine. high school kids. It’s a small takeaway and drinks. Vietnamese condensed milk coffee to 126 Suong Nguyet Anh, D1 coffee shop with cheap espresso and 86 Bis Le Thanh Ton, D1 Italian Lavazza expresso, cappucinos 3824 1004 iced coffees. 3823 5848 and lattes as well as wines and beers. Open to 10pm 206 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 Cooku’s Nest 56-56A Bui Thi Xuan, D1 Gloria Jean's L’amour 39255258 Australia’s most popular coffee franchise www.m-zing.com Cooku’s nest has a clean, artsy vibe now has a solid presence in Ho Chi A stylish bakery and cafe new to Hai offering drinks and snacks. NYDC Minh City with multiple locations in the Ba Trung, in the city centre, L'amour 13 Tu Xuong, D3 inner city. While the favourite Dong Khoi specialises in cakes and desserts and 2241 2043 address has now been given over to a serves Illy Coffee. Eat in or take away. A fun, dynamic and cosmopolitan place Crèperie & Café Sony store, new venues in Vincom A and 24 Hai Ba Trung, D1 for food, desserts, beverages and not at CMT8 prove this favourite brand with 3520 8180 forgetting the company of good friends. locals and expats alike is steadily growing www.lamourbakery.com Prices range between VND100,000 - Inexpensive Western fare targeted mainly in Vietnam. VND300,000. at locals, delivering some fairly decent LightBox Cafe 2 bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, D3 Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 low-cost sandwiches. www.gloriajeanscoffees.com/vn 3822 9992 5 Han Thuyen, D1 This stunningly designed cafe also www.nydc.com.vn Highlands Coffee doubles as an event and photography Cryptic Acoustic Cafe studio, so make sure you dress to Paris Deli Cryptic Acoustic Cafe features an impress at this location because you With over 50 cafes in Vietnam, Highlands architecture that blends classic and never know who might snap your picture. Coffee serves up international and A French style cafe serving some of the They also serve vegetarian cuisine with modern elements. Featured drinks traditional Vietnamese blends. Coffee best pastries in Saigon, this cheerful prices ranging between VND300,000 - include Cryptic frappe (the combination lovers can also find Highlands premium spot is a real slice of Parisian life. Many VND500,000 of coffee and Orion cake, banana quality blends in selected and European drinks and dishes. 179 Hoa Lan, Phu Nhuan and fresh cream), Cryptic soda (soda, . Ground Floor, Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 3517 6668 flavored orange peel, lemon and Saigon Center, 65 Le Loi, D1 3821 6127 fresh cream) and Cryptic yogurt (with www.lightbox.vn yogurt, mango, strawberry, peach). i-Box Cafe Passio Coffee to Go This place also holds acoustic and art L’Usine performances. L’Usine is a , café and gallery Passio Coffee offers its guests fine iBox cafe is a unique, cafe with aristocratic space occupying two locations in the 343/6 To Hien Thanh, D10 Italian style coffee made from the finest decor. This decorative cafe specializes center of D1. Its retail space is dedicated ingredients. Since Passio’s inception in in red wine, Asian dishes and spaghetti. to Vietnamese designers and more DeJa Vu Cafe 2006, this enthusiastic team of coffee They also offer an extensive selection of established brands from abroad as well brewers has become recognized by ice cream creations. as stocking a wide range of stationary It is easy to mistake this cafe for international coffee drinkers. 135 Hai Ba Trung, D1 and home ware items. The café in both someone’s home as the tranquil 112 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 3825 6718 locations serves international fare and atmosphere will have you tension free a range of pastries and the ever popular in no time. The peaceful setting is ideal Phuong Cac Cafe ID Café Sweet & Sour Cupcakes. for dates or low-key social events. Make 151/1 Dong Khoi, D1 sure to catch the live bands that frequent Separated from the bustle of nearby Ben 70B Le Loi, D1 With indoor and outdoor lounge areas this the cafe. Thanh Market by a tiny alleyway, ID is a www.lusinespace.tumblr.com cafe is a relaxing respite from the grind 314/2 Dien Bien Phu, D10 retro café opening a door to an earlier 9am – 9pm of Ho Chi Minh City. With live bands and 6276 6966 Saigon. drinks under VND100,000 it makes for [email protected] 34D Thu Khoa Huan, D1 Le Tokyo Baum the perfect getaway. Bis 213 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 Elle Cafe Imagine Coffee shop Popular Japanese cake cafe with quiet 3932 7484 ats seating area, specializing in orange cakes. te xp Keeping in line with the sense of style One of the walls of this rustic cafe is 46 Nguyen Van Trang, D1 Phúc Minh Coffee A that comes along with the Elle fashion literally covered with books. An easy 3926 0388 label brand, the menu and décor of Elle place to get lost for an evening with prices Phuc Minh coffee is an airy, clean Cafe sets it apart from the competition. below VND100, 000. May Coffee environment providing a varied menu Ground Floor, Bitexco Financial Tower, 45 58 Ho Bieu Chanh, Phu Nhuan A superb, friendly, and inexpensive little and delicious coffee. The staff is Ngo Duc Ke, D1 090 956 0105 café most notable for its perfect view attentive and quick with a friendly 6291 8766 www.facebook.com/ImagineCafeShop of the Cathedral tower bells and close approach. Prices start around VN 09 0956 0105 proximity to the post office. 25,000 for this simple cafe. Fe Cafe [email protected] 1 Cong Xa Paris, D1 51 Hung Phuoc 4, D7

©2014 Co pyri g ht L istin g s Fe Cafe brings you all kinds of 8am - 10pm www.maycoffee.com 9am-10pm

LEGEND: Wi-Fi Delivery Credit Card Dendau Privileges Apply 53 Princess and the Pea The Myth Cafe style. VIP guests can dine in one of four specializing in dim sum, with modern semi-private or thee totally private rooms. Chinese décor and over 68 dim sum dishes. A fairytale-themed venue for the Escape the daily grind of Ho Chi Minh New World Hotel 139A Nguyen Trai, D1 dreamers of Ho Chi Minh City, hidden City with a trip into the mystical setting 76 Le Lai, D1 3925 1111 away in a tiny alleyway off Pasteur. of Myth Cafe. With live bands and prices 3822 8888 www.dimsumhouse.vn Discover it if you can. under VND100,000 it's no wonder The www.saigon.newworldhotels.com 63/18 Pasteur, D1 Myth cafe is one of the best around. Yu Chu 176 Dien Bien Phu, D3 Hung Ky Mi Gia Yu chu is renowned for the quality and Retrobite Diner Cafe 3820 9735 presentation of its authentic Inspired by the concept of 1960s [email protected] Hung Ky Mi Gia is a famous and long- and Peking cuisines along with its Americana, bi-level Retrobite Diner standing restaurant with more than 13 elegant décor. Watching the chefs Cafe features an interior that includes Trung Nguyen Cafe years of operation. It serves traditional prepare signature dishes such as hand- booths, retro egg chairs, jukebox and Chinese cuisine with authentic dishes pulled noodle, dim sum and Peking classic radio players. The menu is One of the most ubiquitous coffee such as roasted chicken, duck, and pork. duck right in the kitchen is a prominent mostly American food with sandwiches, brands in Vietnam. With a burgeoning 20 Le Anh Xuan, D1 dining feature here. hamburgers, pastas, steaks, milkshakes, presence throughout the city, it’s hard 3822 2673 First floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon waffles and more. to go anywhere without tripping over a Corner of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan 6 Cong Truong Quoc Te, D3 Trung Nguyen café – serving gourmet Kabin 3520 9099 3521 0673 Vietnamese street coffee. www.intercontinental.com/saigon [email protected] 26B-C Le Loi, D1 Kabin is a Cantonese restaurant 7:30am - 11pm specializing in exotic dishes such as baked french Soho Coffee The Serenata Cafe duck tongue, grouper cutlet, and lobster soup. Located in the five star Renaissance

The Serenata Cafe is a peaceful, relaxing Riverside Hotel, this restaurant offers a Annamite Two level local cafe chain serving light oasis in a French Colonial house. This cafe wide variety of dim sum. Annamite specializes in French cuisine meals, coffee and local chilled drinks. embraces nature with plants, fishponds, Renaissance Riverside Hotel, within a modern setting. 185 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 and small fountains, and offers music in 21 Tu Xuong, D3 3839 5038 8-15 Ton Duc Thang, D1 the evenings. 6277 8332 7am - 11pm 3822 0033 6D Ngo Thoi Nhiem, D3 www.annamite-restaurant.com Starbucks Coffee 3930 7436 Li Bai Chinese Restaurant Located in the Sheraton Hotel, Li Bai Au Manoir de Khai

Has a large, open ground floor space with Vecchio Cafe offers a selection of over 50 dim sum Au Manoir de Khai is an authentic, first ample seating in booths and tables, and a The interior features Italian ornate décor, dishes as well as traditional Chinese and class French restaurant. Guests can enjoy smaller space upstairs with views out on dim lighting and antique furniture, Cantonese specialties. Diners will enjoy traditional French cuisine in this classic the busy Nga 6 Phu Dong roundabout. enhanced by Italian music. Offerings the relaxed, upscale ambiance provided 100 year old villa. Their menu is extensive Also has outdoor seating. Expect to pay include pasta, soup, chicken dishes, by the wood paneling and oriental art. and features dishes like Kobe beef, foie Western prices. salad, beef dishes, gelato and beverages Level 2, 88 Dong Khoi, D1 76 Le Lai, D1 such as smoothies, fresh fruit juices 3827 2828 gras, red grouper, and truffle mushrooms. 251 Dien Bien Phu, D3 and tea. www.libaisaigon.com The Blue Cafe 39/3 Pham Ngoc Thach, D3 3930 3394 Ming Court Augustin A spacious cafe divided into two different Windows Augustin is a romantic and charming areas with a lush, outdoor garden seating Since the Nikko Hotel graced the Saigon French restaurant located just steps away lounge and an air conditioned in-door A highly fashionable cafe near the skyline, the venue has managed to set the from the Rex Hotel. Serves lunches and lounge. The Blue Cafe has live music with cathedral. For many years, this eye- standard for classy, five-star dining with its dinners and offers 10 percent discount on drinks under VND100,000. catching venue has remained a place to bold grey modern decor and Japanese-style a la carte menu items. 701-703 Phan Van Tri, Go Vap see and be seen, often frequented by efficiency. Ming Court, on the hotel's third 10D Nguyen Thiep, D1 3588 6824 the famous, the well-to-do, and the ne’er floor, is a large Chinese restaurant with all www.augustinrestaurant.com do well. the expected graces of the Orient belonging The Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf 12 Alexandre De Rhodes, D1 to the exotic fantasy of the dynastic era. Bon Appetit 38238408 3rd floor, Nikko Saigon Hotel Offering over 22 varieties of coffee and 235 Nguyen Van Cu, D1 20 kinds of tea, The Coffee Bean & Tea Yogen Fruz A small French-Vietnamese fusion bistro 3925 7777 Leaf has been serving the best coffees Serves frozen yogurt with 20 different on Pham Ngoc Thach with a simplistic and teas from around the world for more kinds of fruits for you to choose from. Ocean Palace charm enhanced by a fine selection of than 40 years in its cozy, handcrafted oak This place also provides an environment old-style French music. A place for those who love Chinese paneled stores. where customers can relax and be social. 78 Pham Ngoc Thach, D3 food. The large dining room on the www.coffeebean.com.vn B3-15B Basement Vincom Center B, 72 Le 090 789 8345 ground floor can accommodate up to 7am - 11pm Thanh Ton, D1 280 diners. Up on the first floor are six 39 Le Duan, D1 www.yogenfruz.com.vn Bonjour Restaurant Ground Floor, Crescent Mall private rooms and a big ballroom that can host 350 guests. Ton Dat Tien, D7 Zoom Cafe Oi’s Pick Bonjour serves up international dishes with a 157-159 Nguyen Thai Hoc, D1 2 Le Duan Street, D1 French flair. The large menu of main courses 3911 8822 39 Le Duan, D1 This distinctive Vespa-themed Café has feature roast duck, salmon, lamb and steak 12-14 Thai Van Lung, D1 been a popular fixture in D1 for ten years. Seven Wonders (Bay Ky Quan) with specialties being ostrich and venison. 94 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Today, the café serves as the place for 150/26 Nguyen Trai, D1 235 Nguyen Van Cu, D1 Vespa enthusiasts and tour veterans It’s worth traipsing out to D6 for this one. Not 3926 0699 235 Dong Khoi, D1 to swap stories over ice-cold beers and only are the Dim Sum, Peking Duck, and 1-5 Le Duan, D1 what many claim is the best selection pan-China home-style cuisine exemplary, Cocorico - Ga Nuong Phap 60-62 Cach Mang Thang 8, D3 of mouth-watering burgers, paninis, and but the venue design, with its architectural Serves an eclectic menu of roasted 1-3 Phan Chu Trinh, D1 baguette sandwiches in town. flourishes from the seven wonders of the chicken (French style), pastas and Asian The Library 169A Bui Vien, D1 world (including the Great Wall, the Taj dishes. 3920 3897 Mahal, and the pyramids) makes for a highly 127 Dien Bien Phu, D1 The Library provides a welcoming distinctive dining experience. 6292 0606 atmosphere for those in search of 12 Duong 26, D6 www.cocorico.com.vn tranquility, comfort and great drinks in the chinese 3755 1577 heart of Saigon www.7kyquan.com Cordon Blue Ground floor – InterContinental Asiana Dragon Court Saigon Shang Palace Restaurant A unique French venue decorated with Corner of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan Dragon Court is a large restaurant blue and green shades serving high- 3520 9099 The slightly off-centre, high-class Norfolk www.intercontinental.com/saigon opposite the Opera House in Saigon’s quality French cuisine on the outskirts of bustling District 1. Enjoy Chinese dishes Mansion Hotel on Ly Tu Trong is home the inner city. to one of Saigon's most well-respected Tram Coffee Oi’s Pick from many regions with dishes like 38 Mac Dinh Chi, D1 glass noodles, hot pot, and a large dim Chinese restaurants outside of Chinatown. 3822 5216 A unique romantic cafe experience sum collection. Located on the 1st floor, Shang's dark www.cordonblue.vn 11-13 Lam Son Square, D1 intricate wooden tables and chairs with hidden well off the beaten track, but ats close to District 1 in neighbouring Phu 3827 2566 white linen and deep red carpeting make La Cuisine for an atmosphere of moody opulence; te xp Nhuan District. Sip a coffee, juice or A beer or indulge in good cafe food Dynasty there is seating for over 300 guests, and This ultra-fine little bistro is an over candlelight in a dark, intimate private rooms are available. exercise in minimalism with its twenty environment hidden amongst trees New World hotel's in-house Chinese 1st Floor, Norfolk Mansion seats and bare, chic-rustic interior of and trickling streams. Relax in an air restaurant is certainly a venue of fine 17-19-21, Ly Tu Trong, D1 wooden furnishings and black & white conditioned room or dine alfresco contemporary Chinese dining. The chef 3823 2221 photographs on whitewashed walls. Its amongst the greenery. The perfect spot to offers a variety of authentic Cantonese warm lighting and clean atmosphere impress a date with your local knowledge. dishes along with classic dim sum under a Shi-Fu Dim sum belies a certain sophistication, however, 100 Tran Huy Lieu St, Phu Nhuan high lantern/chandelier-lit ceiling, in a broad and the price of the fare is significantly

2240 5306 dining room decorated in classic Chinese Shifu Dim Sum House is a restaurant damaging enough to make this a rare ©2014 Co pyri g ht L istin g s

LEGEND: Wi-Fi Delivery Credit Card Dendau Privileges Apply 54 treat for those not in the restaurant's Le Steak de Saigon Indian restaurant on Bui Vien, is familiar Casa Italia fabulously wealthy target market. Drawing inspiration from French among expats and locals alike, rating 48 Le Thanh Ton, D1 steakhouses, Le Steak de Saigon serves 4.5 out of five stars on Trip Advisor. Their Italian owned & run, Casa Italia’s menu 2229 8882 imported and local meats, with beef vindaloo is a must try. ranges from home-style cooking that www.lacuisine.com.vn fondue and table-side beef tartare as 164 Bui Vien, D1 includes steaks, seafood, a large variety the most recommended. Aside from 3838 6661 of homemade pastas, jumbo salads, La Creperie table service, the restaurant offers take- www.babaskitchen.in appetizers and the best pizzas. 86 Le Loi, D1 La Creperie is the first authentic Brittany out and delivery as well. 11am - 11pm 3824 4286 French restaurant that serves savory 15 Dong Du, D1 www.casaitalia.com.vn galettes, sweet crepes with tasty seafood 3822 4593 Bombay Indian Restaurant and the best apple cider in Saigon. www.lesteakdesaigon.com Located in D1 near the Ben Thanh Market 17/7 Le Thanh Ton, D1 area, serving Indian & Halal cuisine. The 3824 7070 L’Olivier ambiance is relaxed thanks to Bombay’s [email protected] easy-going, family kitchen vibe. Mon-Sun 11am-11pm L’Olivier is a restaurant serving authentic 57-59 Ham Nghi, D1 Mediterranean cuisines, located on the 9am - 10.30pm La Fourchette 2nd floor of the Hotel Sofitel. Ganesh Sofitel Saigon Plaza, 17 Le Duan, D1

Small and cozy, La Fourchette is a favorite 3824 1555 Ganesh serves authentic northern Indian amongst the French expat community. www.sofitel.com tandooris & rotis along with the hottest The vintage posters and wood paneling curries, dovas, and vada from the southern Ciao Bella Oi’s Pick add to the charm of this French eatery Le Rendez-Vous de Saigon Oi’s Pick region. located downtown, a stone’s throw from A new wine bistro that offers a warm and 15B4 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Hearty home- the Saigon River. friendly atmosphere. Unwind either in their 8223 0173 style Italian food 9 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 stylish downstairs bar, or lounge on cozy served with flair and excellent service. www.ganeshindianrestaurant.com 3829 8143 leather seating in the upstairs section with An extensive menu is complemented www.lafourchette.com.vn a balcony overlooking a courtyard in an Indus Indian with daily specials. Arriving guests are alley. The venue offers a tasty selection of greeted with a free glass of Prosecco.

wines from France to South Africa, and a Diners sit in a cozy setting upstairs La Nicoise Indus Indian is a relatively new Indian delectable menu of French cuisine. or on the ground floor for people restaurant in Saigon providing all the watching. Big groups should book in A small, friendly French bistro with about a 9A Ngo Van Nam, D1 classic Indian favorites. Operated by advance. www.lerendezvousdesaigon.com dozen tables, La Nicoise serves up typical a dedicated husband/wife duo, this 11 Dong Du, D1 6291 0396 French dishes under the watchful eye of restaurant specializes in Halal food. 3822 3329 its French-Vietnamese owners. 2G Thi Sach, D1 15 Dong Du, D1 The Refinery Oi’s Pick 56 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 3521 0324 3823 3597 3821 3056 [email protected] This Parisian bistro hidden away in its Mumtaz www. saigonrestaurant L'essentiel enclave on Hai Ba Trung is an exceptional group.com/ciao venue, making for an elegant reparation With bona-fide Indian owners and chefs, L'essentiel offers a quiet intimate dining of the sins of the past. It was here in authenticity at Mumtaz is guaranteed. experience downstairs with space for French Colonial days that opium was While the service and setting is relatively Chef Mamma’s private functions and alfresco dining manufactured, bringing ruin to the people basic, the food is amongst the best of its Chef Mamma’s is located at Saigon’s on an upper floor. The menu changes of Asia; it is here that a far softer side type in the city in terms of taste alone. The Superbowl Center offering a variety of weekly, the food is fresh and the wine list of the French culture now exercises brand has a second branch in Da Nang Italian and Asian food. The restaurant carefully collated. its influence over present-day Saigon, city if you're ever on holiday and missing opens from early in the morning until late at night serving breakfast, lunch 98 Ho Tung Mau, D1 serving modern European cuisine in its your curries. and dinner. 0948 415 646 tastefully decorated dining area and airy 226 Bui Vien, D1 A43 Truong Son, Tan Binh outdoor patio. 3837 1767 Le Bordeaux 74 Hai Ba Trung, D1 3825 7667 Da Vinci’s The Punjabi Da Vinci’s is an Italian-American style www.therefinerysaigon.com Set in a French colonial-style mansion, Le pizzeria delivery offering pizzas, lasagna, Bordeaux serves southwestern French Ty Coz Authentic North Indian cuisine prepared spaghetti, calzones, salads and desserts. cuisine in a beautiful setting. Known for Oi’s Pick in a home-made tandoori oven makes Their full menu is online at www. its foie gras and large selection of wines, Punjabi a popular spot for budget davincisvietnam.com. Free delivery to An unpretentious venue focused only on Le Bordeaux is worth the trip to Binh conscious eaters who crave Indian Districts 1, 3, 4, 5, 7 and Phu My Hung. serving great cuisine. Ty Coz provides a Thanh district. standbys like spinach naan and chicken Open 11am - 10pm. fine balcony view of the cathedral, intimate 72 D2 Street, Binh Thanh tandoori. Call 083 943 4982 or atmosphere, and affordable prices. SMS your order to 093 328 4624 3899 9831 40/3 Bui Vien, D1 178/4 Pasteur, D1 restaurant-lebordeaux.com.vn 3508 3777 3822 2457 Good Morning Vietnam 11.30am - 1.30pm; 6.30am - 9.30pm www.tycozsaigon.com italian Italian restaurant with a unique menu Le Bouchon De Saigon Vatel Saigon Restaurant including traditional Italian dishes. The 1960 Presidential Club restaurant is conveniently located in a Red and white checked tablecloths and This is a fine, well-managed, and even beautiful old house in the heart of Saigon, 1960 Presidential Club is a member- well integrated in the local architecture. closely set tables make Le bouchon luxurious dining venue serving authentic only restaurant with an interior design 197 De Tham, D1 de Saigon the place to go for a casual, French cuisine in a Franco-Viet design classic French bistro experience under inspired by Saigon in the 60s. You will 3837 1894 space. There's red carpet along the experience more traditional style of the eye of iron chef Vietnam winner www.thegoodmorningvietnam.com entrance way, gallery-standard art on Italian cuisine with an extensive menu David Thai. the walls, and an overall atmosphere of led by chef Franco Buressi. 40 Thai Van Lung, D1 refinement and good service. Floor 22 Sailing Tower, 111A Pasteur, D1 www.lebouchondesaigon.com 120 bis Suong Nguyet Anh, D1 www.club1960.vn 08 5404 2220 Le Chateau de Saigon vatelsaigon.com Basilico Restaurant Situated in a small but romantic French

villa, Le Chateau De Saigon Restaurant Trattoria-style Italian eatery Basilico is designed to accommodate any kind indian specializes in homespun recipes. of event. Whether it is dinner with family Contemporary décor, casual ambience, and friends, or a passionate evening Ashoka and casual yet attentive Bistro-style with your loved one, Le Chateau De Ashoka is one of the city’s most popular service makes it a relaxing dinner venue. Saigon will provide a sophisticated and and enduring Indian restaurants with Ground floor, on the Corner of Nguyen Du & La Bettola memorable dining experience. a reputation for good food with a wide Le Van Huu, D1 Chef/owner Giuseppe 45A Le Quy Don, D3 range of North Indian culinary dishes 3520 9099 Amorello's www.lechateaudesaigon.com at a reasonable price. Large space 6.30am - 10.30pm for private parties,outdoor catering combines sleek decor with traditional homecooking in Le Jardin Oi’s Pick and free home delivery also available. Capricciosa ats this two-story centrally located Italian Le Jardin is a gorgeous enclosed garden Special set lunch veg/non-veg from eatery. Expect creative dishes such as te xp space that allows eaters to follow the VND90,000 upwards.Promotion (free A You'll find the standards here – pizza, rucola e Gamberi, and La Bettola that example of the French colonists a trip to Cambodia) and discount available pasta, soups, salads, with a few special includes shaved porchetta, focaccia century ago and pretend they're actually for people booking in groups. dishes such as calamari and onion in and homemade mozzarella. There's in Paris. Whether dining outside under 17/10 Le Thanh Ton, D1 squid ink sauce. They're all prepared a wood-burning oven on the premise the shaded terrace or within the old, 3823 1372 according to strict Japanese standards, and they try to handmake all their warmly-lit villa, the cuisine, decor, and www.ashokavietnam.com and the result is actually really good. ingredients. They also deliver. general mood of the place is like a Booth B3-03A, Level B3 84 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Stargate direct to France. Baba’s Kitchen Oi’s Pick Vincom Tower, 70 Le Thanh Ton, D1 3914 4402 31D Thai Van Lung, D1 3993 9786 www.labettolasaigon.com ©2014 Co pyri g ht L istin g s 3825 8465 Baba’s Kitchen, also known as the best www.capricciosa.com.vn

LEGEND: Wi-Fi Delivery Credit Card Dendau Privileges Apply 55 La Hostaria japanese Dragon Hotpot upstairs area; it’s far more private than the downstairs bar. Designed with an intimate atmosphere Dragon Hotpot blends fine taste with the 4 Chu Manh Trinh, D1 3829 0326 invoking something like an Italian town, healthy ingredients of . this venue focuses on traditional ethnic Drinks include Japanese favorites along Italian cuisine (rather than the ubiquitous K Cafe with fine international wines. pizza and pasta), creations of the skillful executive chef – straight out of Venice. 122-124 Ho Tung Mau, D1 K Cafe Sushi is a large Japanese The place lights up on romantic Thursday 3825 8842 restaurant; an ideal place to gather for a evenings with candlelight and light music. business lunch or for a social dinner. 17B Le Thanh Ton, D1 Dragon Noodle 74A4 Hai Ba Trung, D1 3823 1080 38245355 www.lahostaria.com Achaya Cafe A rather small but pretty restaurant www.yakatabune-saigon.com Lucca with warm tones and a nice series of Achaya murals depicting old Saigon, Dragon Kissho Cafe have two floors providing a nice A Brooklyn-style Italian eatery upstairs Noodle focuses on the Japanese staple Experienced chefs prepare teppanyaki, atmosphere for meeting, relaxation with an adjoining bar. Downstairs is a – ramen noodle soups – although sushi, and yakiniku dishes before your or party. The menu is extensive relaxing cafe offering generous breakfasts, their version is a little less spicy than is eyes. In addition, an extensive wine list is with drinks and Western, Japanese, simple cafe fare for lunch and some of the traditionally served, increasing perhaps available as well as an array of fine sake Vietnamese food from sandwiches, best espresso coffee you’ll find in the city. the international appeal of the dish. to complement the exquisite flavors of 88 Ho Tung Mau, D1 spaghetties, pizzas, steak and special premium imported meat and seafood. Japanese sweet desserts. There are a total of four soup bases to 3915 3692 14 Nguyen Hue, D1 90 Le Loi, D1 accompany the noodles. 8am - 11pm www.kissho.wmcvietnam.com 093 897 2050 29 Dong Du, D1 Margherita 11am - 10:30pm 3521 0008 Kuru Kuru Shusi www.ramen.vn A Japanese restaurant that features a Well-reviewed overseas, Margherita is rotating conveyor belt for the buffet, a familiar place to tourists trawling the Dragon Steak Aka Taiyo offering 50 different selections. It also nooks of Ho Chi Minh City. This is partly offers an a la carte menu. a result of its agreeable price, sumptuous Aka Taiyo serves traditional and exotic A striking Japanese restaurant tucked 129 Nguyen Du, D1 Western-style pizzas, English-speaking Japanese cuisine with an extensive menu away off Saigon's central street, Dragon staff, and more than average customer featuring more than 200 dishes. Also www.kurukuru.com.vn steak specialises in thick wagayu cuts service. stocks a surprisingly comprehensive 175/1 Pham Ngu Lao, D1 range of Japanese alcoholic beverages. and tenderloin that could well have Kokekokko Pandora 3837 0760 74B Hai Ba Trung, D1 been cut off a beast the size of a dragon. 3824 4295 They're so enormous that the restaurant Kokekokko is a combination of modern Opera www.akataiyo.com once ran a cheeky competition – guests style fast food with the essence of ancient who finished one within half an hour Japanese cuisine. The restaurant space is Located at Park Hyatt Hotel, Opera is Ajisen Ramen dined free. designed with high quality materials and a contemporary, casual trattoria-style 138 Ton That Dam, D1 features youthful and modern dynamic restaurant that specializes in authentic One of the more authentic Japanese 3821 0288 subtleties. With prices under VND100,00 pizza made fresh from a wood-fired oven, venues in the area with ingredients Kokekoko is a must see. imported from Japan, this restaurant is www.steak.vn pasta and homemade Italian dishes 4th Floor Pandora, 1/1 Truong Chinh, Tan Phu prepared from one large open kitchen. best-known for its tasty “white” soups. The 3849 6840 Park Hyatt Hotel, 2 Lam Son Square, D1 restaurant serves at least 250 traditional Ebisu www.kokekokko.com.vn 3520 2357 dishes. 120 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 Ebisu serves neither sushi nor sashimi La Fenetre Soleil Pendolasco 3822 0522 – instead, the menu focuses on a range

There leafy garden is perfect for all those of wholesome charcoal-grilled meals people looking for some fresh air away Aki Japanese Restaurant Glass tables with mosaic tiles and and on thick, white Japanese udon from the hustle and bustle of the city. It wooden floors set off large comfy sofas also has a fully air-conditioned dining A small Japanese restaurant with a cozy noodles – made from imported udon and high ceilings, and diners can look room. Offers large selection of Italian and comfortable atmosphere, Aki serves powder from Australia – and presenting out over the busy Ly Tu Trong though wines and Italian dishes such as wood fire over 100 authentic Japanese dishes. an overall rustic cuisine with a variety of 11 large French windows. Its sense of oven pizzas, pastas, grilled food, among 15/9 Le Thanh Ton, D1 good sakes. personality attracts artistically-inclined others. 3827 9083 35bis Mac Dinh Chi, D1 expats to return often, and many of 87 Nguyen Hue, D1 Baby Spoon 3822 6971 these profess it as their favourite www.pendolasco.vn [email protected] hangout in Saigon. Cuisine is Japanese- ebisu-vn.asia Vietnamese fusion. Pizza 4P’s Oi’s Pick Famous for its extensive 44 Ly Tu Trong, D1 A little treasure hidden away at the top menu (fried rice wrapped inside an 3824 5994 of an out-of-the-way alley off Le Thanh egg omelette), Baby Spoon offers Fuji Restaurant Ton, this Japanese pizzeria is a major hit contemporary Japanese-Western fusion with those in the know. Highly attractive cuisine. Baby Spoon omurice (green bell The cuisine is exceptional – fresh seafood Mus Mus premises and some extraordinary peppers, bacon, tomato sauce omurice) and vegetables flown in direct from Japan is the house specialty. toppings catering to all tastes make this and Dalat. A preferred venue for those Customers choose a total of twelve 47 Phan Chu Trinh, D1 an unmissable pizza experience. staying at the hotel, and worth trying if ingredients from the selection on offer, which are then added to a bowl of boiling 8/15 Le Thanh Ton, D1 you're living local. 012 0789 4444 broth on the tabletop. Flavours are Ground Floor, Nikko Hotel Saigon www.pizza4ps.com essentially Japanese seafood. 235 Nguyen Van Cu, D1 117 Vo Van Tan, D3 Pomodoro 3830 8123 3930 9185 www.musmus.net In this family-style, simply-decorated Hanayuki trattoria restaurant with an arched ceiling Osaka Ramen and an all-brick interior, a fine Italian A Japanese-style restaurant on Ton menu pleases diners with 12 different Duc Thang with a sushi bar on the Traditional Japanese noodle restaurant pizzas along with pasta dishes, parma ground floor and a fine mezzanine ham with a spicy tomato chutney, and offering traditional Ramen dishes as well a highly-recommended French onion level, Hanayuki serves more than 200 as Japanese/Vietnamese fusion cuisine. Blanchy Street Oi’s Pick soup. Ideal option for a simple, reliable, exquisite Japanese dishes with more 67 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D1 and thoroughly pleasant night out with no than 30 kinds of sushi and sashimi. 10am - 10pm complications. Once hidden upstairs Private, traditional Japanese VIP rooms 79 Hai Ba Trung, D1 at the Blanchy’s Tash are available on the top level. Robata Dining An 3823 8998 bar, Blanchy Street now 21C Ton Duc Thang, D1 The restaurant has a downstairs bar www.pomodoro-vietnam.com has its own location in the courtyard 3824 2754 and a second floor with private rooms Sarpino’s Pizzeria of eateries on Hai Ba Trung, offering that have sunken tables, sliding fusuma authentic Japanese food mixed with Ichiban Sushi Oi’s Pick doors and tabletop . Popular fusion cuisine and the occasional with the Japanese expats, the menu Sarpino’s Pizzeria provides authentic Ichiban Sushi Vietnam serves fine sushi ats additional Southeast Asian dish. Run serves up healthy appetizers, rolls, Italian pizzas made from gourmet and signature drinks/cocktails in a lounge sashimi and An specialty dishes like te xp ingredients. by an ex Nobu (London) chef with setting. A deep fried chicken with garlic salt sauce 125 Ho Tung Mau, D1 his own signature dishes, it has wide 204 Le Lai, D1 An style (VND100,000). www.sarpinos.vn appeal. Food is designed to be shared www.ichibansushi.vn and is backed by an extensive list of 15C Le Thanh Ton, D1 Scoozi sakes and wines. Inaho Restaurant www.robata-an.com An Italian restaurant that offers pizza, 74/3 Hai Ba Trung, D1 pasta, salad, special desserts and a wide Sakura Vietnamese-Japanese 3823 8793 This unique venue specializes in Restaurant variety of drinks. Provide dine-in , take www.blanchystreet.com traditional sushi & sashimi as well as hot away and home delivery services. 11am - 10:30pm 6 Thai Van Lung, D1 pot dishes. Couples can retreat to the Cozy, friendly and modern Japanese ©2014 Co pyri g ht L istin g s

LEGEND: Wi-Fi Delivery Credit Card Dendau Privileges Apply 56 restaurant near all of the attractions in the and other special occasions. The 3914 1565 city center. recommended dishes include Kobe www.mihanquocvn.com 99 Suong Nguyet Anh, D1 beef imported from Japan, Tepan Steak, 8am - 11pm 6291 1036 Sashimi and Sushi. Average price per sakurasaku.vn person is between VND100,000 to Mr. BBQ – Korean Chicken & Hof VND300,000. Sumo BBQ 7bis Korea Sailing, Ben Nghe Ward, D1 This unusual Korean import famous for 0838220187 extraordinarily spicy chicken is an odd Sumo BBQ is a rising star amongst phenomenon on the HCMC culinary Japanese venues in Saigon, offering Vui Vui landscape, serving up a version of KFC smokeless table BBQ and a unique Vui Vui is a Japanese restaurant that's actually painful. Lovers of spicy buffet/a la carte concept: get whatever specializing in barbecue and Japanese- food rejoice. The restaurant itself is you want from the menu, as much as style hot pot. Offers a variety of set clean and modern in design, and there Indaba Restaurant you like. Free birthday beer specials on lunches including Yakiudon, Kimuchi are another 50 Korean dishes on offer Indaba Steakhouse arrangement. Pokka, Sukiyaki and Purukogi. The beyond the signature dish, including combines German style indaba Steakhouse 300 Le Van Sy, Tan Binh restaurant has two floors with each some tasty bibimbap mixed rice dishes. steak and Italian coffee 3991 4757 floor accommodating approximately 20 Ho Huan Nghiep, D1 under one roof. Expect sumobbq.com.vn 100 guests. 3823 9000 a fusion dishes like 10.30am - 10.30pm 125A Tran Quoc Thao, D3 Indaba Spring Rolls, Mexican BBQ www.vuivui.net.vn Seoul House Spare Ribs, and Grilled Duck Breast Sushi Bar served with sesame sauce, steamed Wainosuke Seoul House is a well-known two-story rice and salad. The quaint and cozy There are plenty of dining spaces Wainosuke is a Japanese and Italian Korean restaurant with a simple, cozy restaurant is decorated in soft hues of – large and small rooms, floor-level style restaurant. It serves food such as atmosphere. Its menu contains Korean red and black, complemented with soft Japanese dining on tatami mats, private pastas, salads and steaks to name a favorites like Banchan, hotpots, grilled jazz music. A German Viet Kieu with areas, and the eponymous large sushi few and wine from traditional Japanese meat, clay pot mixed rice, and kim chi experience in restaurants in Germany bar on the ground level. to premium Italian wine. tofu soup. helms the kitchen. 2 Le Thanh Ton, D1 37 Ho Tung Mau, D1 33 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 35 Ly Tu Trong, D1 3823 8042 3821 4016 3829 4297 www.facebook.com/indabacafe www.sushibar-vn.com www.wainosuke-vn.asia Contact them at 3824 8280 or visit www.facebook.com/indabasteakhouse Sushi Dining Aoi Yoshino steakhouses

Sushi Dining Aoi is one such restaurant, The decor is straight out of the set of Au Lac do Brazil New York Steakhouse where the whole atmosphere of the Shogun, with black wood, tatami mats, place evokes the best of the culture. stencilled cherry blossoms and all the Serving Saigon for more than 10 While situated in a fairly laid-back area, With its typical Japanese-style decor trappings of Japanese exoticism – years, Au Lac do Brazil is the very New York Steakhouse is definitely in the – the smooth earthen tones of the tastefully done. While Ho Chi Minh City first authentic Brazilian Churrascaria upmarket category and serves exclusive wooden furniture and surrounds, the is certainly not short of fine Japanese in Vietnam, bringing a new dining American imported beef dishes, with a warmth and privacy of the VIP rooms – eateries, this one is particularly concept - an “All you can eat” Brazilian whole range of steaks from rib eye, New it's possible to believe you're in a more impressive. style BBQ where meat is brought to York strip steak, and tenderloin being elegant realm. 2A-4A Ton Duc Thang, D1 your table on skewers by a passador popular options. 53-55 Ba Huyen Thanh Quan, D3 3823 3333 and served to your heart’s content. 25-27 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 3930 0039 They have an extensive selection of 3823 7373 www.sushidiningaoi.com Yuki fine wines as well. www.steakhouse.com.vn Ho Chi Minh City Sushi World Yukie is a popular Japanese restaurant Au Lac do Brazil I Pho 99 Oi’s Pick located in the backpacker area of 238 Pasteur, D3 A four-storey restaurant in a Japanese- District 1. Offering authentic Japanese (08) 3820 7157 Not a traditional steakhouse per se, but style, the first and second floors feature cuisine at affordable prices. Ha Noi Pho 99 is known for its excellent filet an open sushi bar, while the upper 99 Nguyen Thai Hoc, D1 Au Lac do Brazil II mignon steaks made out of Cu Chi beef. levels contain 15 VIP rooms decorated 3824 2754 6A Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh Also serves great pho. in a traditional Japanese style with (04) 3845 5224 139 Nguyen Trai, D1 tatami matting. For Banquet & Catering 3925 2791 28 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 korean Call or email 3911 0147 [email protected] Samba Brazilian Steakhouse www.sushiworld.com.vn Dae Jang Gum 090 947 8698 All the theatrics of a traditional Korean www.aulacdobrazil.com This is certainly Saigon's most visible and Tokyo Deli experience are part of the service at www.facebook.com/aulacdobrazil colourful restaurant serving the popular Dae Jang Gum, named after an historic Brazilian buffet style, where enormous Tokyo Deli’s menu consists of a wide figure, but more pertinently after a wildly Corso Steakhouse and Bar skewers of meat are circulated around range of distinctive and delicious meals, popular Korean focusing on her the tables for diners to enjoy as much of prepared by specialists to create pure life – photos from the series appear Corso Steakhouse and Bar operates as they can. Japanese flavor. The menu is always throughout the venue. From waitresses under an open kitchen concept, 10C Thai Van Lung, D1 being changed and improved. in hanboks to vast plates of kimchi, this bringing together an exciting menu 3822 0079 www.samba.vnnhahang.com 240 Le Thanh Ton, D1 is the most authentic introduction to the of Asian and European dishes with a 5404 2244 cuisine available outside of District 7. focus on . Guests can choose Wild Horse Salon tokyodeli.com.vn 1st Floor, Kumho Asiana Plaza from a wide variety of wines and spirits.

39 Le Duan, D1 117 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Cowboy-themed western steakhouse Uraetei BBQ Restaurant 3825 7974 3829 5368 with an impressive exterior on trendy www.daejanggum.vn www.norfolkhotel.com.vn Thai Van Lung, Wild Horse serves high- Uraetai serves yakiniku grill, a variant quality Tex Mex/American cuisine with of the popular Korean dish bulgogi. Hana Restaurant Dragon Steak enormous servings. The restaurant itself is attractively 8A/1D1 Thai Van Lung, D1 Specializing in generous portions of done, with a nod to feng shui in its Japanese-Korean fusion in the heart of 3825 1901 selective placement of ponds and rocky D1. Hana has contemporary decor with Wagyu cuts; they’re so enormous pathways outside. a private, open feel. Its broad menu that the restaurant runs a cheeky 6673 9373 includes both cooked and raw fish in competition - finish one within half an thai addition to traditional hot pot with fish hour, and it’s free. Vicki’s Teppanyaki & BBQ eggs, rice and vegetables. 138 Ton That Dam, D1 Golden Elephant 8 Cao Ba Quat, D1 3821 0288 It provides a fusion of Asian cuisines 3829 5588 www.steak.vn A cozy and relaxing Thai style ats with dishes from Japan, Singapore, and 9am - 10pm 11am - late restaurant, serving an extensive

te xp Vietnam. Their menu is interesting and collection of Thai specialties including A diverse, with many delectable seafood Mi Han Quoc El Gaucho noodles, curries, rice, stir-fries, soups, options. Serves great Argentinean steaks, and a good range of seafood. 42 Le Anh Xuan, D1 This franchise has gained popularity hamburgers and more. A great place 34 Hai Ba Trung, D1 3823 3232 in Ho Chi Minh City for having to entertain clients or friends from 3822 8554 vickis.com.vn successfully adapted the spiciness of overseas. With outlets in Hanoi and Korean cuisine to the local Vietnamese Bangkok too. Jasmine Thai Vietnam Monde palate, serving perfectly balanced 5D Nguyen Sieu, D1 Good for receptions, team meetings, noodle dishes. 38251879 A quiet, candle-lit affair complete with

©2014 Co pyri g ht L istin g s relaxation, family dining, banquet 92 Ham Nghi, D1 www.elgaucho.asia the ethereal tones of traditional music,

LEGEND: Wi-Fi Delivery Credit Card Dendau Privileges Apply 57 guests can enjoy variations on dishes from the North, Central, and South of Bun Sai Gon and fruits. Food are complemented with prepared in the Thai culinary tradition. Vietnam, served by well-trained waiters special drinks mixed from fresh fruits 85 Quoc Huong, D2 and waitresses dressed in traditional This franchise positions itself firmly in and vegetables. 35190038 Southern clothing. the local market with the slogan 'the bun 2 Thi Sach, D1 5pm - 9.30pm Tue-Sun 71/5-6 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 noodles of the Vietnamese people' – 3823 8920 indicating a concerted dedication to the www.hum-vegetarian.vn Koh Thai Banh Xeo 46A authenticity of its noodle soup staples. 73 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Khoai Restaurant Stunning Thai-chic decor and unique Although known for a wide range 6276 2609 Specializes in dishes from Nha Trang. Siam cuisine make Koh Thai one of of Vietnamese specialties, the local www.bunsaigon.com.vn 3A Le Quy Don, D3 Saigon’s most authentic and memorable pancake stuffed with herbs and prawns www.khoairestaurant.com Thai restaurants. Located in the is its tastiest dish. Cha Ca La Vong Intercontinental complex, Koh Thai serves 46A Dinh Cong Trang, D1 This venue only serves Cha Ca, a Lang Viet Oi’s Pick Asian inspired cocktails in a trendy lounge traditional Hanoian dish. Cha Ca is a salad Lang Viet combines water puppet environment with chill music. Banh Xeo An La Ghien made out of pieces of fish and spring theater with Vietnamese northern 1st floor, 39 Le Duan, D1 onion stir-fried in a hotpot. cuisine. There are two performances 3823 4423 in the evening (5pm and 6:16pm) and The fare on offer is traditional 36 Ton That Thiep, D1 091 233 9138 Vietnamese, specialising in the Banh last for 45 minutes, with an option www.kohthai.com.vn Xeo filled egg pancake, a favourite with Cuc Gach Quan of a la carte dining, set menu or 11am - 10pm Daily buffet afterwards. During the day, the foreigners with its light crispy shell and This Vietnamese venue serves traditional, restaurant serves breakfast and lunch, fragrant herbs and meats inside the country-style foods, a mixture of street Lac Thai starting at 10am to 2pm. Their sister pancake pocket. food dishes made with fine ingredients restaurant, Pho Xua, was once visited by 74 Suong Nguyet Anh, D1 together with a selection of more Lac Thai is a large, three-floor Former President Bill Clinton in 2000. www.banhxeoanlaghien.com.vn/en contemporary options. restaurant offering a wide range of Thai 36 Pham Ngoc Thach, D3 10 Dang Tat, D1 cuisine with signature dishes like Pad 3829 9266 Barbecue Garden 3848 0144 Thai, Tom Yum Koong, Chicken Satay www.langvietxua.com and many others. The venue features all open-air dining Five Oysters 71/2 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Lemongrass and the atmosphere is distinctly festival- Serves local cuisine with an emphasis 3823 7506 like, relaxing, and casual, becoming on seafood and beers starting at The vibe aims at a harmony between congenially boisterous in the evenings. VND10,000. Open daily from 9am until Mai Thai modern styling and the Vietnamese The restaurant specializes in Western- late. Vietnamese fusion dishes such as beef traditional arts, and the dining room with Mai Thai is a Thai restaurant offering 090 30 12123 its tile floors and wooded wainscoting with cheese, 5-spices beef, squid with www.facebook.com/FiveOysters an extensive menu with many Thai satay sauce, and shrimp kebabs. effects a comforting natural environment. favorites. This two-storey restaurant 134-136 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D1 Ganh 4 Nguyen Thiep, D1 features traditional decorations and 3823 3763 Luong Son friendly service. 135A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D1 13 Ton That Thiep, D1 With green suspended lanterns, simple 3823 3340 and elegant furnishings, all touched off Exotic beer garden style eatery famous for www.barbecuegarden.com Malee Thai with bamboo baskets of fruit, flowers, its barbecue beef. Luong Son also serves Beefsteak Nam Son and reed grass, the atmosphere is just fear factor items such as scorpions, grubs, A cute, central Thai venue decked as smooth and well-defined as a more ostrich meat and crickets. This local steak restaurant specialises out in royal purple decor, Malee is an modern-styled venue. 31 Ly Tu Trong, D1 in Vietnamese-style iron-plate meat intimate restaurant serving a wide range 58/4 Pham Ngoc Thach, D3 3825 1330 dishes rather than the American of consistently tasty dishes, although 3829 5243 www.facebook.com/LuongSonQuan steaks often popular with expats – but without the full effect of Thai cuisine’s www.nemnuongganh.com while these two varieties have their signature burn. Gold Fish Nam Phan differences, the local version of the dish 37 Dong Du, D1 Nam Phan is a 200 seat restaurant that has a fresh, light character and is served Gold Fish offers a slice of authentic is accents Vietnamese cuisine with live with some good, delicate Vietnamese Spice Vietnam with a genuinely rural cuisine. classical music. sauces. 73 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 34 Vo Van Tan, D3 188 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 Spice Thai restaurant has been a favorite www.goldfish.vn among the locals in Saigon since 2003. 3930 3917 Nam Phat Restaurant This multicultural eatery offers Thai food www.namsonsteak.com Grillbar - Eatery & Cafe & seafood in a décor fusing Oriental & Binh An Village A new trendy kitchen and cozy A Vietnamese restaurant that specializes Mediterranean artifacts. restaurant with the concept of taking in hosting social events such as weddings Open every day for dining and other 27C Le Quy Don, D3 traditional Vietnamese charcoal grilled and business conferences. Traditional www.spicevn.com banqueting services, Binh An Village street food and serving it in a New York Vietnamese cuisine is the specialty serves traditional country cuisine such stylie cafe. with prices ranging from VND100,000 Thai Express as in house fried spring rolls, fresh lotus 122 Le Thanh Ton, D1 - VND300,000. The setting is of an shrimp salad, selective grilled seafood www.grillbar.com.vn elegant banquet hall. Thai Express is the world’s largest Thai and meats served with sticky pineapple 21 Nguyen Trung Ngan, D1 restaurant chain. Enjoy fantastically rice. A jazz band is available for booking Highway 4 3910 6488 authentic Thai cuisine at reasonable prices for private functions. It also offers [email protected] in a relaxed, contemporary atmosphere. special arrangements such as a Saigon The menu reflects the ambiance of the 8A Le Thanh Ton, D1 boat cruise, DJ, traditional Vietnamese north and wider Vietnam, although dishes Marina Saigon 6299 1338 folklore music and more. are carefully selected to meet a more www.thaiexpress.com.vn 1163 Binh Quoi, Binh Thanh universal palate. Marina Saigon is one of the leading 101 Vo Van Tan, D3 seafood restaurants in Ho Chi Minh Bonbon www.highway4.com City. This restaurant provides a vietnamese Offers authentic Vietnamese cuisines as luxurious environment with French/ well as a modern global menu. It boasts Hoa Tuc Vietnamese fusion cuisine. 3T Quan Nuong hand-selected steaks and a world-class 172 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 wine list. The restaurant is designed Set in what used to be Saigon’s 3930 2379 With hanging oil lamps and wooden to be multi-functional, with the ability opium refinery, Hoa Tuc serves up statues lining the stairs, this venue to continually change the layout and contemporary Vietnamese cuisine in a Maxim’s Nam An above the Temple Bar has a touch more atmosphere for high-end group events, Parisian, art-deco atmosphere. atmosphere than most of its kind, but intimate romance or casual dinners. 74 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Large and lavishly decorated, Maxim’s the otherwise simple décor with bamboo Kumho Building, 39 Le Duan, D1 3825 1676 Nam An restaurant serves Vietnamese tables and chairs are fitting enough. www.hoatuc.com cuisine in style. The carved wooden The broad barbecue grill menu features Bo Ne Le Hong booths, completed with silk curtains, classics of its kind. Hoang Yen are a romantic hideaway for couples or Top Floor, 29 Ton That Hiep, D1 Bo Ne Le Hong is a popular Vietnamese Try some of the country’s delicacies in small groups. 3821 1631 restaurant specializing in beefsteak. It a modern yet inviting atmosphere. The 13-15-17 Dong Khoi, D1 has a rich, diverse menu, and also offer eatery’s various clay pots are flavorful; An Khue Quan fresh fruit juices. some feature mam, a delicious fermented Mitau

489/27/39 Huynh Van Banh, Phu Nhuan fish paste. Mitau creates a gathering place for ats Serving a well-selected series of dishes 7-9 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 those who love Hue cuisine. The interior te xp

from both northern and southern Bo Nong 148 Hai Ba Trung, D1 includes memorabilia, statues, bric and A regions of Vietnam in an area where This performance venue features Parkson Hung Vuong, Third Floor, Hung brac and golf trophies. international diners are likely to be in a traditional cultural show with Vuong Plaza, An Duong Vuong, D5 52 Hai Ba Trung, D1 abundance – and therefore well attuned Vietnamese cuisine. Established by CR1- 12, 103 Ton Dat Tien, D7 3823 0767 to the foreign palate. Frenchmen Thibault Detraz and Jeremy www.hoangyencuisine.com www.mitauhue.com 92B Le Lai, D1 Gremillet, who aim to bring the French passion for fusing live entertainment Hum Nghi Xuan An Vietnamese Bistro with dining. Hum is a vegetarian restaurant where 143 Nguyen Trai, D1 food are prepared on site from various Decorated as a high-class traditional

An Restaurant offers exquisite dishes www.bo-nong.com fresh beans, nuts, vegetables, flowers, Vietnamese mansion, Nghi Xuan is ©2014 Co pyri g ht L istin g s

LEGEND: Wi-Fi Delivery Credit Card Dendau Privileges Apply 58 perfectly fitting for a venue serving the stunning views of the city while you spin 9 Tran Hung Dao, D1 Au Parc finest of Vietnam's classical cuisine – around in the sky. The restaurant offers 3821 2538 the imperial dishes of Hue. Service is more than 50 Hong Kong inspired It's only fitting that this Mediterranean- courteous, fast, and quintessentially dishes and a bar that serves coffee and Vietnam House styled restored villa with its original tiles, elegant. cocktails. old window frames, plush cushions, and 5/9 Nguyen Sieu, D1 9th Floor, 12D Cach Mang Thang Tam, D1 Vietnam House is a high quality opium-themed art collection sits in one 3823 0699 3823 2232 restaurant specializing in both local of the most gorgeous streets of central nghixuanrestaurant.com Vietnamese and international cuisine. Saigon Vegan Saigon. Au Parc is an unforgettable This restaurant is set in a restored venue with a décor that manages to Nha Hang Ngon French colonial house offering stunning simultaneously capture the grace of the Saigon Vegan is located in a casual and views of the street. old Colonial architecture and the mood Famous restaurant serving easy inviting space with high ceilings, dark 93-95 Dong Khoi, D1 of west-Asian exoticism that transfixed Vietnamese cuisine to foreigners wood tables, and lots of natural light. 3829 1623 Europe in the Romantic period. and tourists with more than 400 Guests can choose from over 100 vegan www.vietnamhousesaigon.com 23 Han Thuyen, D1 traditional dishes. dishes, all of which are either soy or 3829 2772 160 Pasteur, D1 vegetable based. 3827 7131 (other) asian 378/3 Vo Van Tan, D3 Bahdja www.quananngon.com.vn 3834 4473 8am - 10pm Crawfish King Algerian restaurant serving north African Papaya Restaurant SH Garden restaurant Crawfish King serves special menus Oi’s Pick delights such as couscous, tajines and with crawfish, lobster, mantis shrimp, Established in the 1930s, the Terrace desserts. Unique Mechoui set dinner is A petite, clean, and brightly-coloured American-style chicken wings, oysters, restaurant is located at the corner of a popular choice and perfect for groups Vietnamese restaurant with simple décor fruit beer, sea urchin and more. Offers two of the oldest boulevards of Saigon, (available with prior notice). serving a light, healthy, northern-style free delivery for customers in D1 and D3. Nguyen Hue and Le Loi, where romantic 87-89-91 Ho Tung Mau, D1 cuisine. There's no fuss in the layout 63 Truong Dinh, D1 memories of Saigon float around. This 093 787 2010 (French, Arabic, English, here – green walls with black & white 6272 7888 restaurant offers a variety of delicious Finnish) artworks, brown wooden furnishings, and www.facebook.com/crawfishking63 lanterns above every table make for a very traditional Vietnamese dishes. 7am - 12am 4th floor, 98 Nguyen Hue, D1 pleasant atmosphere – and it's casual Ben Style Oi’s Pick without being messy, and refined without 6680 0188 Lion City Every sandwich comes wrapped any trace of pretentiousness. shgarden.com.vn with a label that displays its calories, 68 Pham Viet Chanh, Binh Thanh This is a Singaporean franchise to protein, fat and carbohydrates content. 6258 1508 Song Ngu watch with interest – since its humble A 544-calorie Cheesy tofu meatballs [email protected] beginnings in 2006 with the rather sandwich costs VND80,000 while www.chi-nghia.com There are eight different rooms capable more unpleasant name Singapore of seating a total of 350-400 guests, Frog Porridge, it has risen in strength a 281-calorie Chicken salad sets you Pho 2000 each warmly-lit with dark wooden to become the most prominent back VND50,000.The chicken jumbo Pho 2000’s Ben Thanh Market branch furnishings. On a small stage, a representative of the cuisine in the city, sandwich comes with a massive 638 was famously visited by former US traditional chamber with ladies and its growth has continued to be calories, 59 grams of protein and 62 President Bill Clinton in 2000. The chain wearing classical Ao dai remarkable. grams of carbohydrates, but only 16 serves up variations on pho as well as perform Vietnamese music on genuine 45 Le Anh Xuan, D1 grams of fat. Ben also offers meal plans noodle and rice dishes. old instruments. 3823 8371 for those who want to get fit and bulk up. 70 Suong Nguyet Anh, D1 4 Phan Chu Trinh, D1 www.lioncityrestaurant.com 302 Co Bac, D1 3822 2788 3832 5017 090 691 2730 6am - 10pm Temple Club Little Manila An eatery with indoor and outdoor Beirut Pho 24 seating serving your craving for Offers Lebanese and Mediterranean Usually regarded as one of central Filipino cuisine such as the famous food with belly dancers every night from PHO24 is a popular Vietnamese Saigon's most authentically Vietnamese adobo, pansit (dried noodles), 8:30pm to 10pm and Latino dancers noodle restaurant chain with venues, this historic and good-looking breakfast combinations like Longsilog from 10pm to midnight. 70 outlets across Vietnam and features classic Indochinese decor, (combination of longanisa (Filipino 74/13D Hai Ba Trung, D1 throughout Southeast Asia. broadly interpreted as a blend of the old sausage), egg and fried rice), Tosilog www.beirut.com.vn 71-73 Dong Khoi, D1 French colonial style with pan-Asian (tocino, egg and fried rice) and more. 3825 7505 graces that appeal more to Asian Ground Floor, Citiplaza, 230 Nguyen Trai, Black Cat Restaurant exoticism than reflect actual Vietnamese Propaganda Bistro D1 styles. With antique furnishings and Originally envisioned as a fast food Offers Vietnamese cuisine such as S2-1 Hung Vuong 2, Phu My Hung, D7 ceiling fans, the atmosphere is certainly Vietnamese sandwich place, Black Cat spring rolls and Vietnamese street food 5410 0812 pretty. Saigon now serves international food with a Western twist. Serves breakfast, 29-31 Ton That Thiep, D1 with a focus on burgers, most famously lunch and dinner. The restaurant Long Monaco 3829 9244 its “Big Cheese” featuring 500g of beef. features hand-painted wall murals. templeclub.com.vn 21 Han Thuyen, D1 Long Monaco operates throughout the 13 Phan Van Dat, D1 3822 9048 Thanh Nien Restaurant city under various brand names – this 3829 2955 www.blackcatsaigon.com www.facebook.com/Propaganda-Saigon outlet is a standalone restaurant in the With its attractive home-style layout, busy Etown office complex in Tan Binh Chuck’s Quan Bui Authentic Vietnamese pretty garden for outdoor dining, and district. You'll probably only visit if you're Chuck’s offers American comfort food Cuisine warm, yellow-toned interior for the working nearby or visiting on official like pancakes, omelets, burritos, fries, Leafy green roof garden, upmarket buffet, it's a charming venue for tourists business, but you'll find the restaurant restaurant with reasonable prices and a tacos, burgers and hotdogs. and a familiar favourite for long-timers. serves some great Asian business wide menu of choices. Open style kitchen 27 Tran Nhat Duat, D1 It's intentionally decorated like a private lunches. advertises its cleanliness. Designer interior home, walls decorated with floral Ground Floor, Etown 1 with spot lighted pictures and beautiful Crab Pot artworks, and the garden surrounded 364 Cong Hoa, Tan Binh cushions give an oriental luxurious Crab Pot is a beer and seafood by bamboo. www.longmonaco.com.vn feeling – augmented by dishes served on restaurant serving breakfasts, lunches earthenware crockery. 11 Nguyen Van Chiem, D1 3822 5909 and dinners of American, French, 17a Ngo Van Nam, D1 www.vnnavi.com/restaurants/thanhnien western/international Seafood and Vietnamese cuisines, with 3829 1515 delivery and catering services also. (deliveries: 3602 2241 or 091 400 8835) Thang Bom Quan 27 Grill 65 Pham Ngoc Thach 6, D3 Quan An Ngon Serves hot pot and special style BBQ. 27 Grill is an open kitchen run by Danish chefs Casper Gustafsen and Camilla Gartenstadt Quan An Ngon appeals easily to tourists 49 Pho Duc Chinh, D1 Bailey and is known for its steaks. It Gartenstadt serves German cuisine and local people alike in its unique also offers a spectacular view of the city. including sausage, sauerbraten, and concept: presenting the diversity of Tib Restaurant Opens from 5:30pm - 11pm. pork knuckle. Known amongst locals Vietnamese cuisine from different regions This fine Vietnamese Hue-style and expats for its long teakwood in a village market style. The restaurant is restaurant looks almost like a temple, Rooftop, AB Tower, 76A Le Lai, D1 bar, Gartenstadt is home to imported set in a large new building, which from its and it's considered one of the city's www.chillsaigon.com premier settings serving imperial cuisine. Schneider Weisse and Krombacher beer, ats external yellow appearance is reminiscent of an old European villa; but inside its 187 Hai Ba Trung, D3 Al Fresco’s as well as a large collection of choice te xp 3829 7242 schnapps. Private dining options are A space is designed as an ancient Hue ruong house. www.tibrestaurant.com.vn Offering a mix of Tex-Mex, Italian, and available on the second floor, including 138 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D1 Australian food along with cold local & balcony seating overlooking scenic 3827 9666 Tin Nghia imported beers and a wine list featuring Dong Khoi Street. www.quanngon138.com A charming little venue serving Australia’s finest whites along with 34 Dong Khoi, D1 vegetarian cuisine. Its quaint affordable South American reds. 3822 3623 Royal Revolving Restaurant appearance hides the fact that it was the 16 Nguyen Thi Nghia, D1 first international vegetarian restaurant 3926 0036 Hog’s Breath Café The Royal Revolving Restaurant is a in Ho Chi Minh City and an important www.alfrescosgroup.com

©2014 Co pyri g ht L istin g s unique restaurant experience. Experience center of the city’s vegetarian culture. 8.30am - 11pm An Australian family diner and bar

LEGEND: Wi-Fi Delivery Credit Card Dendau Privileges Apply 59 concept. Renowned for quality steaks, lunch and dinner complimentary Prosecco, fresh baked Zest Bistro & Cafe seafood and other western fare served in an Ground floor, InterContinental Asiana bread served with garlic, olive tapenade A casual restaurant featuring an informal environment. Smoke-free indoors. Saigon and hummus. American, French and fusion menu. Ground Floor, Bitexco Financial Tower, Corner of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan 51 Hai Ba TruNg, D1 Located across from the waterfront, just 2 Hai Trieu, D1 3520 9099 382 48358 minutes away from the Bach Dang pier, www.hogsbreathcafe.com.vn www.intercontinental.com/saigon Zest offers diners one of the nicest views Shri in the city. Jaspas Wine & Grill Oi’s Pick Mogambo Bar & Grill Shri offers unparalleled panoramic views 5 Ton Duc Thang, D1 of the city. Menu offers a broad range of 3911 5599 Jaspas Wine and Grill provides an Mogambo is a dark, African-styled dishes to suit most tastes with modern extensive wine list along with many restaurant with some the finest US & European styled starters, mains and Zoom Cafe Oi’s Pick “reinvented” Jaspas dishes, new Tex-Mex and exceptional burgers. desserts as well as a wide selection of creations, and mouthwatering steaks. 50 Pasteur, D1 grills and salads. Wine list is consists Zoom cafe serves Tex-Mex and Japas also offers a wide array of 3825 1311 currently of over 270 bins with selections Vietnamese cuisine as well as running a delectable dessert options. from both the Old and New World, with Vespa tour service from within the café. 74/7 Hai Ba Trung, D1 MZ Wine & Restaurant France, , Spain, Germany and 169A Bui Vien, D1 MZ has a wine cellar featuring wines as well as Australia, , South 3920 3897 from the Old World to the New World. Africa, USA, Argentina and Chile all 7am - 2am daily The restaurant serves Asian and represented. Western cuisine with beefsteak and Level 23, Centec Tower, 72-74 Nguyen Thi lamb dishes as the most suggested Minh Khai, D3 The List ones. Piano and violin artists perform www.shri.vn daily from 7:30pm-9:30pm. Special arrangements like a live band and Skewers decorations are available upon requests. District 2 56A Bui Thi Xuan,D1 An open-air kitchen at the front of the 3925 5258 restaurant and a small cigar lounge www.m-zing.com upstairs set off the atmosphere and mark Bakeries this venue as one with a unique presence Pacharan - Tapas & Bodega in Saigon. The purely Mediterranean Sweet and Sour Offers custom made cakes, pies, tarts, cuisine is appropriately authentic. brownies and cupcakes. It welcomes The city’s best-known Spanish 9A Thai Van Lung, D1 visitors to an open kitchen where they restaurant with a sports bar on the www.skewers-restaurant.com can watch and be a part of what makes ground floor, two floors of dining space, Khoi Thom its sweets special. Provides catering for and an open rooftop deck for cocktails Subway special occasions. and live music. Serving tapas, paella, and Khoi Thom - "fragrant smoke" in AVA Residences, 40/4 Nguyen Van, D2 an extensive Iberian wine list. Subway is now in Vietnam, offering English - is a unique venue, set in 3519 3167 a bright, colourful al fresco decor 97 Hai Ba Trung, D1 its internationally-renowned range of inspired by renowned architect subs sandwiches and cookies. World Voelker Ricardo Legoretta. A long way from Parkview travelers can expect the same high French bakery selling fresh breads, Mexico, Chef Alejandro Torres's Located within New World Saigon quality of ingredients regardless of pastries and chocolate menu blends "Cocina Hotel, Parkview is a sophisticated what nation they are visiting. 39 Thao Dien, D2 Potosina" and timeless restaurant with a view of the adjacent 121 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Mexican classics. 6296 0066 23 September Park. Their buffets feature 3914 4118 29 Ngo Thoi Nhiem, D3 voelker-vietnam.com both Asian and international favorites www.khoithom.com along with local and imported fish, The Elbow Room BARS oysters, prawns, shrimps and snails. La Fenetre Soleil Every Sunday, the brunch buffet offers The Elbow Room on Pasteur is an McSorley’s a fine fare including and steak American-style bistro with a long bar, La Fenetre Soleil, literally means ‘window Recently opened Irish pub with a specialties, with an ice bar serving up exposed brickwork, white walls, and to the sun’, showcases a fusion of Old swimming pool and outdoor patio. sushi and sashimi. whirring ceiling fans – making for a Serves pub grub with events and theme World fittings such as exposed bricks, New World Saigon Hotel casual, contemporary space with an nights happening regularly. antique furniture and chandeliers with 76 Le Lai Street, D1 international vibe. More of a diner than a 4 Thao Dien, D2 New World elements such as fur cushions 3822 8888 restaurant, Elbow shoots at a cool, relaxed 3519 4659 and mosaic tiled and glass tables. Serves [email protected] atmosphere, pleasantly decorating its www.mcsorleys.vn a range of cocktails, imported beer, coffee www.saigon.newworldhotels.com warmly-lit walls with evocative black & and smoothies together with a Japanese- white photos and subtle lighting. Papagayo Saigon Vietnamese fusion menu. Pasha 52 Pasteur, D1 A resort-style design and French 4 Ly Tu Trong, D1 www.elbowroom.com.vn Mediterranean food are the make-up of Serving Turkish and Mediterranean this newly opened hangout. La Habana cuisine, the kitchen is headed by Chef The Hungry Pig 18 Tran Ngoc Dien, D2 Ismet with over 30 years of experience A sandwich bar that takes bacon very Offering authentic Spanish cuisine and in similar restaurants. seriously, The Hungry Pig is a place Buddha Bar a wide choice of tapas, as well as Cuban 25 Dong Du, D1 where you can find bacon, wrapped in One of the long standing bars in the cocktails, La Habana is a den of Cuban- www.pasha.com.vn fresh-baked bagels and baguettes. area, it has a pool table, darts, big screen Spanish inspired architecture located on 144 Cong Quynh, D1 tvs along with cheap beers and bar food. inner-city Cao Ba Quat. Quán Ut Ut 7 Thao Dien, D2 6 Cao Ba Quat, D1 Quán Ut Ut is Saigon’s newest The Legends Bar & Grill 3744 2080 www.lahabana-saigon.com restaurant hotspot. Specialties include A drinking and dining destination in cafeS Ly Club American BBQ, cashew-smoked pork Saigon’s backpackers’ area offering ribs and burgers alongside fresh draft Tex-Mex specialities like nachos, fajitas, Agnes Cafe - Dalat Coffee & Flower and imported beer. Open daily from burritos, among others, soup, seafood, Shop Often used as a venue for gatherings, 4pm til midnight. kebabs, salads, burgers and sandwiches, At Agnes Cafe they offer fresh coffee, networking meetings, and events where an 168 Vo Van Kiet, D1 steaks, chicken dishes, and more. Wide smoothies and juices along with a air of wealth and sophistication is useful, Ly www.quanutut.com selection of drinks complement the food. delicious breakfast and lunch menu. Club is a sure bet for making an impression 3914 4500 236 Bui Vien, D1 on a date or business lunch. Built into a This quaint and cozy cafe is a perfect traditional French villa with wide elliptical Reflections Warda place to meet up with friends or just relax to get away from the bustling arches, the atmosphere of naked opulence Reflections Restaurant is a fine dining persists throughout the property. traffic outside. They offer free delivery. restaurant with a menu that draws Warda is a Middle-Eastern style bar and 11A-B Thao Dien, D2 143 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 inspiration from every corner of the restaurant headed by a renowned Syrian www.lyclub.vn globe. It holds events showcasing chef. Guests can enjoy authentic middle- Shalom Coffee Margherita Michelin-star Chefs, wine pairing dinners eastern cuisine indoors and outdoors Shalom Coffee is available for all your and other culinary luminaries. while enjoying an almond cigar or shisha. coffee and chocolate needs, warm Level 3, Caravelle Hotel, 19-23 Lam Son 71/7 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 snacks, cold refreshments, breakfasts and ats For some, Margherita doubles as an Squre, D1 lunches. unofficial expat rendezvous, partly a result Xu Restaurant Lounge 53 Vo Truong Toan, D2 te xp A of its agreeable prices and sumptuous Saffron Oi’s Pick www.coffeeshalom.com Western-style pizzas and foods. The first thing that will strike you when The venue is well-known for its pork 175/1 Pham Ngu Lao, D1 you enter Saffron is the terracotta pots. wantons, bun cha, seared beef crostinis, RESTAURANTS Located 50 meters from Ciao Bella, a bo luc lac diced beef and 'Xu-style' Market 39 popular Italian restaurant on Dung Du, chicken rice. Xu is an elegant venue that FRENCH Market 39 showcases seven interactive this restaurant offers Mediterranean works as a restaurant or a high-class bar live show kitchens, featuring a la carte food, some with a distinct Asian for the upper echelons. Le Bacoulos all-day dining and an extensive buffet influence added for further 71-75 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Le Bacoulos is a French restaurant, bar selection served daily during breakfast, uniqueness. Guests are welcomed with www.xusaigon.com and lounge that serves French cuisine, bar ©2014 Co pyri g ht L istin g s

LEGEND: Wi-Fi Delivery Credit Card Dendau Privileges Apply 60 food like burgers, fish and chips alongside THAI Serves international cafe fare, great the largest ice-cream chain in the world vegetarian options like spinach soup food, icy-cold draught beer and wine by with flavors such as Baseball Nut and and Greek salad. There’s also a garden to Baan Thai the carafe. The space is a large open- Lunar Cheesecake. unwind in with a glass of wine or enjoy a plan room with an attached garden and 105 Ton Dat Tien, D7 game of pool. Baan Thai serves authentic Thai cuisine play area for kids. Holds regular movie www.baskinrobbins.vn 13 Huu Dinh, D2 using a considerable variety of tastes screenings. 3519 4058 and spices prepared by Thai chefs. 32 Tran Ngoc Dien, D2 Bud’s www.bacoulos.com Generally speaking, the cuisine leans 35194532 Bringing the taste of American ice more towards being authentic in taste www.snap.com.vn cream to Vietnam, Bud’s Ice Cream has Gastro’home than serving the more internationalised nine stores in Ho Chi Minh City. Apart New delicatessen shop offering versions of Thai cuisine available The Deck from a variety of delicious ice cream western-fusion French food by French elsewhere. flavors, Bud’s also offers a wide range chef Stephane Courtin. Visit the shop or 55 Thao Dien, D2; 3744 5453 Located on the banks of the Saigon of Western and Vietnamese food. try their catering service. www.baanthai-anphu.com River, this restaurant offers great SD - 04 Panorama Residential Complex, D7 international and Vietnamese fare. www.budsicecream.com.vn 100 Xuan Thuy, D2. 6281 9830 Jasmine Thai 38 Nguyen U Di, D2 Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf La Villa Oi’s Pick www.thedecksaigon.com Expect here variations on dishes you'll The Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf serves

find throughout the Thai culinary Vino some of the best coffee and tea from This Colonial-style villa set in a quietly tradition with features more common They offer professional advice on around the world. It also has a full line gentrified district 2 street is a cache of to those restaurants serving in Western selecting and tasting wines. The of baked goods made from high quality luxury with its beautiful poolside garden nations. outdoor terrace area is the perfect spot ingredients, most of which are from and cosy, scenic white-toned dining room 85 Quoc Huong, D2 to sample a new vintage and brunches their own proprietary recipes. area. Dine outside or in, on an off-the-cuff 3519 0038 on the weekends. Ground Floor, Crescent Mall, Ton Dat Tien, D7 menu prepared by the French chef, based NO.1, Street 2nd, D2 www.coffeebean.com.vn on the best market ingredients available VIETNAMESE www.vinovietnam.com on the day. FB Deli Coffee 14 Ngo Quang Huy, D2 Banian Tree 3898 2082 A fine dining Vietnamese restaurant. The List FB Deli Coffee features a unique black and www.lavilla-restaurant.com.vn Offers a set lunch, set dinner and white design and signature coffee beans *Reviewed in Oi March 2013 international breakfast. imported from Italy. Guests can also enjoy River Garden, 170 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 many varieties of homemade cakes, along Trois Gourmands with Tiramisu, muffins, and sandwiches. All Opened in 2004 and regarded as one Frangipani Hoa Su District 7 cakes 50% off from 7 to 10pm. of the finest French restaurants in town. Frangipani Hoa Su offers authentic SE-1 My Khanh 2 Apartments, D7 Owner Gils, a French native, makes his Vietnamese cuisine with a variety of BAKERIES own cheeses as well. dishes from different parts of Vietnam The Fountain Coffee Ice Cream 18 Tong Huu Dinh, D2 ranging from pho, bun bo Hue to mi Dunkin’ Donuts Known for its Swiss ice cream with all quang. It serves breakfast, lunch and 3744 4585 This American doughnut and coffee the fixings, Fountain Coffee also serves dinner. It also has an open space and franchise offers munchkins, croissants, Western dishes in a spacious lounge area. Indian a VIP air-conditioned room together donut sandwich and toasted SB4-1 My Duc Residential Complex, which can hold a maximum capacity of sandwiches - along with the popular Nguyen Duc Canh, D7 500 people, making it an ideal venue for sugar raised, glazed chocolate mochi, Ashoka different types of events and functions. Ashoka is one of the city’s most popular glazed, chocolate coconut, cinnamon, MOF Japanese Sweets & Coffee 26 Le Van Mien, D2 Boston kreme, Bavarian Kreme, Crescent and enduring Indian restaurants with [email protected] a reputation for good food with a wide strawberry-filled or chocolate frosted Sourcing the majority of their dessert range of North Indian culinary dishes donuts. Western/ INTERNATIONAL ingredients from Hokkaido, Japan, MOF at a reasonable price. Large space 59 Nguyen Duc Canh, D7 serves up premium desserts and a for private parties,outdoor catering Boathouse Oi’s Pick Savouré Bakery Japanese restaurant menu. and free home delivery also available. With a great view of the Saigon River, Offering gourmet cakes and pastries 101 Ton Dat Tien, D7 Special set lunch veg/non-veg from this restobar serves imported steak, with all the fine characteristics of the www.mof.com.vn/en VND90,000 upwards.Promotion (free healthy salads and much more in an European gourmet tradition. Customers alfresco environment. trip to Cambodia) and discount available can choose from a wide array of baked NYDC 40 Lily Road, An Phu Superior for people booking in groups. goods including cakes, desserts, breads, Established in 1995 in Singapore, NYDC, Compound, D2; 3744 6790 33 Tong Huu Dinh (Street 53), D2 cookies, wedding cakes, and moon The New York Dessert Café, aims to www.boathouse.com.vn 3744 4177 cakes during the season. bring a piece of New York to Southeast www.ashokavietnam.com Blu Bar and Grill Grand View, SD 4-1, Nguyen Duc Canh, D7 Asia with their popular mudpies and a 5412 2469 whole range of Western comfort foods. ITALIAN 107 Ton Dat Tien, D7 Blu Bar provides a wide range of Asian www.savourebakery.com Pendolasco – Thao Dien and Mediterranean specialties for S’cottage Restaurant - Café breakfast, lunch, and dinner along with BARS Inspired by the mysterious wooden many unique beverage options. Expect excellent classic Italian cuisine – Peaches house in the Hansel and Gretl story, 53 Vo Truong Toan, D2 wood-fired pizza, spaghetti, and tiramisu – S’cottage serves up home-style meals 3744 4111 A spacious, attractive restobar with cooked with a focus on fresh flavours and in a spacious, fairy-tale inspired space. 7am - 11pm comfortable, lounge-style seating and a featuring the finest imported ingredients bar area, this watering hole mixes three SB-02 My Duc Residential Complex, from Italy. Blue Crab Oi’s Pick beers on tap and a large screen for live Nguyen Duc Canh, D7 36 Tong Huu Dinh, D2 Blue Crab offers delicious seafood sports with a pan-Asian curry menu. 5411 1186 62532888 - prawns, scallops and lobster, crab, S57-1 Sky Garden 2, D7 www.pendolasco.vn oysters, scallops and many more for CHINESE rock-bottom prices. All of the seafood Ruby Soho Sarpino’s Pizzeria is sourced from the same supplier A popular district 7 spot with excellent Huong Vien Hunanese Restaurant as a number of high-end hotels and and cheap range of cocktails, good Serving China’s little-known spiciest Sarpino’s Pizzeria is a famous pizza restaurants in the city, ensuring the food and great music! Listen to the likes cuisine, the dishes of China’s reddest brand from with three food is fresh and high quality. For of Jimi Hendrix, The Ramones or Beck province and the preferred taste branches around Ho Chi Minh City that meat-lovers there’s also a wide range while downing an ice cold one. of Chairman Mao, Huong Vien is specializes in pizza, pasta and rice. of dishes that include pork ribs and S52-1 Sky Garden 2, D7 well-decorated although a bit on the pricey side, with dishes averaging 43 Thao Dien, D2. 3744 2132 chicken wings. They offer weekly specials as well. Sala Beer VND180,000 . JAPANESE 49 Quoc Huong, D2 Enjoy Asian and European dishes at S59-S61, Sky Garden 2 Apartments, D7 Sala Beer and choose and enjoy more 3744 2008 Ming Dynasty Tama River-Japanese Restaurant www.bluecrabsaigon.com than 50 famous beer brands from around the world. Ming Dynasty serves authentic Chinese Bottles of sake fill shelves along the Ground floor White House Hotel food in a setting reminiscent of an old wall behind the sushi bar, and unique Mekong Merchant Set in a colonial house within an R2-25 Bui Bang Doan, Hung Phuoc 1, D7 Chinese palace. Specialties include dim Japanese paintings add a nice visual open-air courtyard surrounding, this sum, shark fin and abalone and dishes touch. Since opening four months ago, from Quang Dong. ats restaurant serves delicious pizza, The Tavern the restaurant has attracted a diverse sandwiches, smoothies with an The Tavern is a Western pub & 23 Nguyen Khac Vien, D7 te xp clientele, from locals to expats.

A extensive wine list. restaurant where patrons can play 14E1 Thao Dien, D2 23 Thao Dien, D2; 3744 4713 darts & pool, watch football or enjoy INDIAN 3744 6782 reasonably priced food and drinks. Snap Cafe R2-24 Hung Gia 3, Bui Bang Doan, D7 Ashoka Chiisana Hashi Ashoka is a small chain of slightly more Serves authentic Japanese cuisine By day, Snap Cafe is a community- CAFES upscale Indian restaurants serving both including sashimi, sushi, tempura, centered, family-friendly cafe and Northern and Southern Indian cuisine sukiyaki and shabu shabu. restaurant. By night, guests can enjoy Baskin Robbins including curries, naan and tandoris. River Garden, 170 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 live music, sports on the big screen, quiz With more than 7000 branches in more S9-1 Block R13, Bui Bang Doan, D7

©2014 Co pyri g ht L istin g s 6683 5308 nights, pool, foosball, and more. than 50 countries, Baskin Robbins is 5410 1989

LEGEND: Wi-Fi Delivery Credit Card Dendau Privileges Apply 61 Bollywood VND to 200,000 VND per dish, its price 137 SB-02 Khu My Phat, Nguyen Duc An Phu Complete North & South Indian can't be beat for the same quality and Canh, D7 Large supermarket stocking a wide Cuisine. Special Chaat & Tandoori deliciousness. 5412 4641, 3pm - midnight range well-known international brands Dishes. Parties, Events & catering 105 Ton Dat Tien, D7 www.facebook.com/elcaminovietnam of dry goods along with fresh groceries, service available, Daily Lunch tiffin and frozen meat and fish, fresh fruit and Set menus. VIETNAMESE El Gaucho vegetables, cheese, wine, toiletries and El Gaucho Argentinian Steakhouse is Free Delivery (All Phu My Hung) Co Ba Vung Tau more 22131481 - 22450096 an international chain of restaurants 43 Thao Dien, D2 Co Ba Vung Tau is a chain of traditional 0938069433 serving authentic Argentinian cuisine Vietnamese restaurants serving up in a space reflecting modern yet rustic Hotline: 0906357442(English) Classic Fine Foods their famous banh khot amongst decor, giving it an inviting ambiance and [email protected] Supplier of international brand foodstuff an extensive menu of affordable genuine atmosphere. facebook: bollywoodvietnamindiancuisine like Illy, Valrhona, Bonne Maman along Vietnamese food. Unit CR1-12, The Crescent, D7 (for complete menu) with fresh vegetables, dairy, and meat. R1-72 Hung Gia 1, Bui Bang Doan, D7 3825 1879 No. 17, Street 12, D2 5410 2027 www.elgaucho.com.vn Spice India www.classicfinefoods.com Spice India offers a wide range of Com Tam Ba Son Harry Casual dishes that cater to any pallette. Enjoy Le Cochon D’or Com Tam Ba Son, Ba Son offers A sports bar, with pool tables, dart your curry with a side of Bollywood. LeCochon D’or shop sells European authentic Vietnamese broken rice boards and satellite sport. There is also S6-1 Bui Bang Doan, Hung Vuong 3, D7 and International meat that include ham, (BBQ) and hu tieu sadec. The 35 year live music and a wide food and drink 093 841 6551 sausages, pate, terrine, and smoked old recipes are handed down for more menu to choose from. www.namaste-india.com.vn specialties. A taste of home, because than 3 generations. It serves breakfast, R1/49, Hung Gia 3, Tan Phong Ward, D7 lunch and dinner. you and your taste buds deserve it! ITALIAN SB10-1 Nguyen Luong Bang, Nam Khang, Le Taj Customizes service available including Phu My Hung, Q7 door-to-door delivery. Le Taj offers French cuisine and features La Cucina 5413 3122 64 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 a luxury atmosphere of black and white 3829 3856 design. Besides a wide variety of menu La Cucina has opened on Crescent ASIAN 8am – 7pm choices, Le Taj brings you to the ultimate Promenade in Phu My Hung, with luxury appetite garnished with 24k gold an open-plan kitchen that can Cham Charm Metro leaf. Le Taj also impresses its guests accommodate 180 diners. Enjoy Wholesale suppliers of foodstuff, office with a large wine cellar featuring 150 top-end dining featuring the best of Charm is more like a museum than a supplies, furniture, clothes and more. types of international wine that adds to Italian cuisine and a wide selection of dining venue, filled with the artefacts and Entry is reserved for business owners the dining and entertainment variety. imported seafood, prepared from the sculpture of the Champa people and only but foreigners can obtain a one- 06 Phan Van Chuong, D7 freshest ingredients, in a relaxed, rustic with gorgeous artworks and colourful day pass by showing their passports. 090 535 0221 atmosphere. hangings on the walls. The upstairs area is Residential An Phu, An Khanh Ward 2 Reviewed in Oi April 2013 a wide-open terrace with plenty of tables Salt & Pepper Block 07-08 CR1-07, 103 Ton Dat Tien, D7 for a more relaxing atmosphere. The Veggy’s cuisine is pan-Asian. Salt & Pepper Restaurant mainly serves 5413 7932 Italian dishes. A specialized grocery store carrying 2 Phan Van Chuong, D7 imported products, Veggy’s offers 103 Ton Dat Tien, D7 Sarpino’s a wide range of international food www.saltpepper.com.vn WESTERN/INTERNATIONAL imported from abroad and fresh Sarpino’s Pizzeria serves authentic produce grown in Vietnam. Berru Oi’s Pick Scott & Binh’s Restaurant Oi’s Pick Italian pizzas as well as other Italian S54-1 Sky Garden 2, Pham Van Nghi, D7 Berru is a family-run Turkish restaurant This unassuming little bistro is making dishes such as oven-baked pasta, offering a variety of Turkish specialties big waves with visitors to the city and baked rice, wraps and salad, all at on the menu including kebabs, koftas, resident expats alike. With a menu replete reasonable prices. wine & liquor mezzes and soups. This is one of the with tasty sandwiches, burgers, pasta, and 3SI 12-1 Grandview, Nguyen Cao Nam, D7 few halal restaurants that imports all of various other international dishes, this is www.sarpinos.vn their halal meat. an ideal guilty hideaway from Vietnamese Bacchus Corner SC 3-1 Nguyen Luong Bang, Nam Khang, cuisine for just one meal at least. Bachhus imports from most of the Salt & Pepper Italian Restaurant Phu My Hung, D7 15-17 Cao Trieu Phat, D7 world’s wine regions and supplies Located in the modern confines of The wholesale and retail customers. It Crescent, this contemporary-styled Boomarang Bistro Saigon VIVA! Tapas Bar & Grill encourages wine tasting in its Pasteur Italian restaurant and pizzeria has an Located in The Crescent by the Specializes in tapas dishes like store using the unique Enomatic open kitchen and an outdoor terrace Crescent lake, the spacious Boomarang Albondigas (meatballs in tomato system, and staff are skilled in advising area. Serving up a range of pan-Italian Bistro Saigon serves Australian sauce) and Gambas pil-pil (spicy chilli on wine matches with food. cuisine, the menu includes a selection and other Western food in the most shrimp), priced individually at less than 158D Pasteur, D1 of salads, pastas, main courses, pizzas pedestrian friendly part of town. VND50,000 per plate. The restaurant is and desserts, all at affordable prices. 107 Ton Dat Tien, D7 furnished in an eclectic style, from the Beer Plaza 103 Ton Dat Tien, D7 3841 3883 modern blue glass and stainless steel Beer Plaza has an extensive range 5412 4848 www.boomarang.com.vn bar, to the traditional wine barrels that of international beers in stock. www.saltpepper.com.vn serve as tables. Connoisseurs will be pleased to find all Cham Charm R4-28 Hung Gia 4, Tan Phong, Phu My of their favorite varieties of beer along JAPANESE Famous for their extensive international Hung, D7 with unique glassware. nightly buffet featuring 8 types of 5410 6721 94-96 Le Lai, D1 Osaka Ramen oysters, American Angus beef and This sleek, open-kitchen contemporary Australian filets, Cham Charm is Boutique Cellar eatery serves up Japanese noodles devoted to Cham arts, culture and supermarkets All about wine, lots and lots of starting from VND78,000. There are cuisine and is tastefully decorated with wine. Priding itself in being the sole also set menus, individual dishes and a Cham artifacts and sculptural works. 100% distributors of premium wineries around 02 Phan Van Chuong, Phu My Hung New range of smaller, appetizing sides. 100% Alimentation.Generale.De.Qualite the world. Urban, D7 SD04, LO H29-2, My Phat Residential is the latest high-end grocery store to 11 Suong Nguyet Anh, D1 Complex, D7 Deutsches Eck / German Corner grace the streets of An phu. With a rustic charm 100% provides customers with Shop Thai Duong The six month old restaurant is fast THAI 100% safe, natural and local products all Beer, wine, & spirits importers. becoming known for its sausage, sourced and manufactured in Vietnam. Previously known as Tan Mai. beer, and their Schweins Haxe or pork Nathalie's Phu My Hung 54 Ham Nghi, D1 knuckles (served with white cabbage The shop only offers products that reach and mashed potatoes). A number of international requirements Nathalie's Phu My Hung is situated in an The Warehouse German beer to select from including and runs food events at the store. All ideal location on a central corner in the A premium wine importer, distributor, Bitburger, Koestritzer Black Beer, products are available to order online at district 7 high-profile metropolitan area. and retailer supplying wines from Benediktiner Weisse, HB-Hofbrau www.100percent.vn.com. Serving delicious Thai cuisine in charming all over the world, the Warehouse Weisse, Schwarzbrau Exquisit, and 26b Thao Dien, D2 and romantic surroundings, the restaurant Schwarzbrau Weisse. also offers spirits, wine accessories, has two floors with a unified, simple decor A001 Nguyen Van Linh St., Phu My Hung, Annam Gourmet glassware and refrigeration to ats and warm colourful tones throughout. D7 An upscale deli and grocery chain complement their customers’

S9 Hung Vuong 3 Apartments, D7 54106695 offering gourmet groceries, cheese, choices. te xp 5410 0822 organic products, gluten -free products, 15/5 Le Thanh Ton, D1 A www.nathaliesrestaurant.com El Camino fruit and vegetables, gourmet deli, wine and other beverages. All locations, in Vinifera Thai Express- Crescent Plaza A small bar & restaurant situated in the District 1, 2 and 7, have a coffee lounge Established in 2002, Vinifera is one Thai Express's interpretation of Thai heart of Phu My Hung. Relaxing outdoor that serves breakfast, lunch, drinks and of the most reliable wine distribution food exhibits the best of the cuisine but saloon featuring inexpensive Spanish early dinner. companies in Vietnam.Offering with the edges softened for a global tapas and small plates from gourmet 41A Thao Dien street. D2. 3744 2630 prestigious wines from around the palate unused to the extremes of Thai ingredients. Affordable selection of SB2-1 My Khanh 4,Nguyen Duc Canh, D7 world at a a great value. style cooking. Averaging from 40,000 Spanish & French wines. 16-18 Hai Ba Trung, D1 15C7 Thi Sach, D1 ©2014 Co pyri g ht L istin g s

LEGEND: Wi-Fi Delivery Credit Card Dendau Privileges Apply 62 Travel & Leisure Image by adam robert young

An Lam Villas Ninh Van Bay GREAT ESCAPES: on a cruise

(the most coveted of all ports) both times I was there. As many do, my cruise line offers free or heavily discounted excursions Ship to Shore for crew, and I was lucky enough to ride an elephant in Bali, snorkel the Great Barrier Reef in Australia, feast on freshly-caught Traveling the world as cruise ship crew crab in Alaska and much more - all for free. With so many restrictions, and so little Text and Images by Caroline Coupe time, I learned to be a smart traveler. I did my research and I hit the ground running to try and get the most I could out of every moment. My greatest triumph was Working on cruise ships is one of full days off while in port to explore or Shanghai. I was working in the morning the most unique jobs there is, and one of go on an excursion. Other days I stared and the crew had to be back on board the best ways to travel the world. And miserably out the window while manning extremely early because of strict customs because it’s such a unique lifestyle, people an empty Youth Centre. I missed out on officials, but I was determined. With only often ask me what it’s really like. It’s a Paris and Machu Picchu, had only one about three hours in a city where English is tough life. I don’t get to choose where I hour to explore my only time there, not widely spoken, I managed to get to Yu go, and sometimes I get stuck working the and because of recurring safety drills, all I Gardens, explore the amazing Town God’s same few ports over and over, for weeks saw of incredible Kauai through an entire Temple, walk along the Bund waterfront, or months at a time. I’m at the mercy season in Hawaii was the hotel beach right and buy silk wall hangings for myself and of my ship’s itinerary, my manager’s next to the ship. I spent six months on a a fan for my mother. It was rushed, it was scheduling and endless safety drills. But ship sailing out of the Los Angeles area stressful, and I was almost late on board, my ship career lasted eight years and took and never got to see the city itself because but it was worth it – I had seen China. As me to over 60 countries - making it all US Customs and Border Patrol were so frustrating as it was to have such a short worthwhile. strict that there just wasn’t time for our time there and in other ports, it was also My position on board was a key factor crew to get there and back before we had incredible because it’s somewhere I never in determining how I would experience to be back on board again. But it works would have ventured on my own. Sampling the places we would go. I worked in the both ways, and sometimes luck was on my slivers of lots of different places helped Youth Activities Department, which is a side. I spent an entire season in the sunny me discover which ones I’d love to explore great position to have if you love the travel Mediterranean, cruised Antarctica, and further – my brief experiences in Bali, side of the job as much as I do. I often had managed to spend the day in Bora Bora Hong Kong and Malta have put them at the

64 top of my travel wish list when they had off the beaten path. Take Livorno for CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Town God's Temple, Shanghai; Giant never previously been places I had thought example – from this humble port you can Buddha, Japan; Penguin Colony, to visit. venture not only to Pisa and Florence, but Falkland Islands; Bora Bora, to incredible Cinque Terre, medieval Lucca, French Polynesia Striking Out on Your Own and more. Anyone who quits after seeing It amazed me to see many passengers the Leaning Tower is truly missing out, as arriving for their cruise with no inkling Cinque Terre is one of the most gorgeous of where they were visiting or what they places I’ve ever seen. Sometimes the less were going to do in each port. With only obvious choice can be as inspiring as the one day to experience what a place has places you’ve heard so much about. When would defeat their purpose of escaping to offer, being prepared is crucial. It pays we docked in Yokohama, Japan, I was the passengers for the day. But they may to know whether the sights are easily pretty devastated when I discovered that respect that you’re not a tourist trap sort accessible or if a guided tour is the best all the excursions to Tokyo were leaving of traveler, and let you in on their secret option, such as in Rome where the ship early in the morning and I couldn’t go as restaurant, where the nicest part of the docks 1.5 hours from the city, time is very I was working until noon. So I signed up beach is, or which café has great coffee limited, and it’s not an easy city to navigate for the only tour I could – an afternoon and free WiFi (ship internet is incredibly quickly if you don’t know where you’re departure to Kamakura to see the Giant expensive, even for crew). Sometimes it’s going. But in so many places, it’s incredibly Buddha. The tour was fantastic, not only as easy as keeping your eyes open and simple and rewarding to strike out on was visiting the 36-foot Buddha statue an walking just that little bit further from your own – Barcelona, Hong Kong and amazing experience, but we also explored a everyone else. Copenhagen. They’re very walkable cities temple and its grounds where a traditional In the somewhat rundown port of with efficient public transportation that’s Japanese wedding happened to be taking Ensenada, Mexico on the main street is a simple to navigate. It’s easy to get to where place in the outdoor pavilion. I had time Papas & Beer franchise where you can eat you want to go, see exactly what you want to wander the side streets of Kamakura, Tex-Mex and do tequila shots upside down to, and explore at your own pace. buy a magnet for my collection, and eat a while listening to extremely loud music. Another thing that shocked me was the delicious steamed pork bun. I still want to It’s always full of cruise ship passengers number of passengers who would tell me visit Tokyo, but I got to experience Japan. and other tourists who have no idea that that they were not going out in a particular As crew, we’re always looking for a place right next door is Mexico Lindo Taqueria port because they had been there before. to get away, somewhere that isn’t overrun and the most delicious, authentic tacos I’ve been here 10 times, I’d tell them, and by tourists. If you’re ever on a cruise and and burritos for a fraction of the price. In I’m going. There’s always something new want to find the best spots, ask the crew. Grand Turk, in the Caribbean, it’s as simple to see and explore, it’s a question of getting Of course, they may not tell you, since that as walking to the end of the beach – past

65 Working on cruise ships is an amazing way to travel and a great way to save money. It’s also exhausting, stressful and frustrating

returning to the ship for lunch, or worse, heading to the nearest McDonald’s! Food for cruise ship crew can be notoriously bad, but once outside you have the chance to taste an endless array of cuisines. I’ve eaten fresh pasta in Italy, crepes in France, Korean barbeque in South Korea, and in New Zealand a Maori hangi feast where the food was slow-cooked underground - there have been so many delicious meals. But of course, I’ve missed out on some things too. As a huge sushi fan, I didn’t get to eat a single bite of it in Japan, and the closest I came to having the dim sum I dreamed of in Hong Kong was a single (though delicious) barbeque pork bun. But I discovered the world’s best burger – at Burger Queen in Ketchikan, Alaska – and my all-time favorite ice cream flavor: Tutu’s Anniversary, a delicious mixture of coconut, raspberry and passion fruit only available in Hawaii. I still think about that burger, and though I’ll never be in Alaska again, I make sure others who are going know where to find that tiny burger shack so they can share in the deliciousness. Working on cruise ships is an amazing way to travel and a great way to save money. It’s also exhausting, stressful and frustrating. You go to work for six months at a time, working seven days a week, living, working and socializing with the same people, sharing a tiny room, eating a lot of bad food and never getting enough sleep. You need to have the right personality and the right mindset and be able to embrace an unorthodox lifestyle. If you do, you will love every minute of it and have some incredible adventures. I’ve settled down now, and am living the land life in Copenhagen, Denmark, but I haven’t the cruise village and the ever-popular value either by word-of-mouth or just by stopped traveling and I will never forget 500-seat Margaritaville restaurant a half- wandering around. You look for smaller my incredible experiences exploring the minute’s walk from the pier – to Jack’s and more authentic places, avoiding chain world with a ship as my home. Shack, a beach front bar and grill with restaurants or those catering to tourists. awesome drinks, renowned jerked chicken Many cruise ship passengers fail to take Bio: Caroline is a passionate traveler, and a famous swimming, hole-digging dog advantage of these potential culinary and photographer and aspiring travel writer. named Topher. It’s a great place to spend cultural experiences, either by being too From Canada, she recently settled in the day on a gorgeous part of the beach, cautious to try new things, or unwilling to Copenhagen, Denmark after spending eight and so many people miss it because they spend money when they can eat ‘for free’ years working on cruise ships and nine plop down at the first spot they see. on board the ship’s buffet. months working at a boutique hotel in In places like and Turkey, where Edinburgh, Scotland. Caroline has launched Global Bites the food is not only fantastic, but can be a travel blog, LoveLiveTravel, based on her Another perk of being in a different very cheap (you can get a delicious gyro or experiences around the world. It can be found place each day is the food. You learn kebab on the street for about two euros), at www.lovelivetravel.co.uk, and is also on where to find great cuisine for good it boggled my mind to see passengers Twitter at@lovelivetravel .

66 GREAT ESCAPES: hanoi Capital Consumption A 48-hour eating and drinking marathon in Hanoi’s Old Quarter Text and images by JIMMY DAU

As an Australian-born Vietnamese who has only visited the southern parts of Vietnam, I had limited understanding of Hanoi and how different it is to Ho Chi Minh City when it comes to cuisine. Southerners would claim that northern food is bland whereas those from the north would argue it’s simpler and elegant thus requiring less use of spices and sugar, allowing the ingredients to speak for themselves. For anyone on a flying visit, deciding on where and what to eat can be daunting at the best of times. Trip Advisor is usually the first port of call, but inconsistent reviews can cast a cloud of doubt over the legitimacy of the medium. Here is a list of my favorite things to eat if you’re up for a short weekend of gastronomic indulgence. Start training and make some room. You will need it by the end of a weekend here. Bun Cha Bun cha is arguably Hanoi’s most famous dish. This was the first dish that I was told by everyone I know to try and is now what I first introduce visitors to. It’s almost impossible not to be distracted by the sweet scent of pork grilling on the sidewalk as you go about your business. At Dac Kim Bun Cha on 67 Duong Thanh, I was guaranteed not to mess up my first- ever order of bun cha considering it’s the only dish they serve here. At street level, the restaurant is deceptively small with few seating options both outside and inside on the ground floor, but climbing up the narrow spiral stairs reveals two additional levels that can accommodate up to 40 more locals and tourists who are seeking refuge from the infamous Hanoi heat. Within seconds of ordering, the porky contents arrive in a bowl of liquid, lightly flavored with sugar and tamarind. The stars of the dish are the plump meat patties made from pork mince, shallots, garlic, sugar and fish sauce, along with the pork belly strips resembling thick cuts of streaky bacon. The soup is delicate, perfectly balanced between sweet and sour with a hint of smokiness courtesy of the grilled pork. Slivers of carrot and kohlrabi add a contrasting texture to the broth where vermicelli noodles are loosened by dunking them into the mixture and then devoured with a mountain of accompanying herbs. I finally had my first encounter with bun cha and it’s been an intense love affair ever since.

67 CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Pho Bo, Bun Rieu Cua, Banh Cuon, Cha Ca La Vong

Pho Bo Bun Rieu Cua on 11 Hang Bac Street has Throughout the country,pho is eaten any been dishing out this colorful meal for over time of the day and is put together in Throughout the 50 years and has become an institution in every kind of way, but in Hanoi it’s made the Old Quarter. Eating here is literally with the philosophy that less is more. country, pho is stepping into somebody’s living room Fewer spices are used in the broth and you because every morning the owners shift won’t find mountains of various leaves, eaten any time of their furniture to the side, fling open the beansprouts or hoisin sauce anywhere on front doors and set up a couple of large the table. I have never been served pho this the day and is put pots of soup out the front to bubble away. way and it required a couple of attempts together in every Space is limited and taller customers may to appreciate how the simplicity and lack find themselves sitting in a side saddle of spices and condiments allows no room kind of way, but position to the table, and once seated a for error. A plate of fried bread called gio no-nonsense protocol is adhered to: Walk chao quay is optional for extra volume but in Hanoi it’s made in, sit, order, devour, pay, then leave. Next! my approach to eating pho is “all thriller, Much like the Soup Nazi, but friendlier. no filler”. A dash of garlic infused vinegar with the philosophy provides enough zing to the dish. Banh Cuon Pho 10 on 10 Ly Quoc Su Street near that less is more. I rarely skip meals but there are moments Hoan Kiem Lake is a place where I find when I’ve eaten too much and require myself coming back to for breakfast after something that will not cause the onset of a my morning run. It’s one of the few places presentation, then ready for some serious food coma. This is when I rely onbanh cuon, that has a broader range of pho bo on the slurping action. a dish of few components that is very light. menu and I often rotate between delicate Freshly steamed sheets of fermented rice pho bo tai (rare beef) and the braised and Bun Rieu Cua batter envelops a trio of minced pork, wood gelatinous textures of pho tai nam (flank The complexbun rieu cua contradicts ear mushrooms and shallots into a roll, and steak). It takes 60 seconds for my order everything a simple Hanoi pho stands served with a side of sweet nuoc cham and a to reach the nearby kitchen station (in for in a dish. It’s a noodle soup defined plate of mint. It’s an incredibly easy dish to full view of hungry patrons), assembled by the sum of its many parts: crab paste eat but if you feel like some extra meat then by one of the three women behind a cakes, juicy ripe tomatoes to add sourness, a side of cha lua (sausage) can be included. perspex wall until it arrives in front of fried tofu cubes to absorb the liquid and a It’s a perfect snack or for when you’re not in me. The bowl is piping hot with flecks of healthy dash of mam ruoc (shrimp paste) the mood for a full meal. transparent blobs on the surface indicating on top to give the dish a boost of umami The vendors and their unmistakable the perfect balance of collagen and fat goodness. Unlike pho, a large handful of giant metal steamers can be found on flavoring the stock. The topping is simple lettuce and cilantro is dropped into the most streets in Hanoi. However, with the with only spring onions for freshness and bowl to add texture to the entire dish. temperatures reaching uncomfortable levels

68 Eating what the locals eat is the best way to know a country, its people and culture

chicken and it’s difficult not to return, time and time again, to the visual spectacle of cooks barbecuing succulent chicken cuts streetside. I became a semi permanent fixture in the scene, often returning for the finger licking, perfectly grilled chicken thighs to satiate my chicken cravings. There is nothing fancy about this street or the restaurants here. A variety of cuts are available, ranging from chicken feet and monster wings to succulent thighs that are lightly marinated in a sweet sauce with a hint of background spice on the palette. All of the cuts are skewered with giant-sized toothpicks and act as the perfect eating utensil although, inevitably, the skewers end up discarded as I wrestle each cut of chicken with my bare hands. Ca Phe Trung Egg Coffee can be described as the cross between coffee and eggnog. As the name states, it is made of coffee and an egg yolk with sweetened condensed milk. The egg yolk is ferociously whipped to lighten the protein load and served either hot or over ice depending on the weather and mood. For anybody who hasn’t tried it before I would recommend trying it chilled on their first try. My favorite spot for ca phe trung is at Giang Cafe on 39 Nguyen Huu Huan Street where they have been perfecting this beverage since 1946. Inside this time warped, moody and windowless café with miniature bamboo stools and tables, an old television entertains customers ordering from a limited coffee menu. Overlooking the room is an old family portrait proudly displaying the original founding grandparents; now their grandson has taken over day-to-day operations. For the more daring caffeine addicts head Chicken Street to a Cong Caphe chain store for a yogurt coffee(ca phe sua chua). The crushed ice, coffee and sour yogurt combination in the summer, I avoid the food sweats by fish is cooked and assembled with robot-like delivers a layering of textures and eating indoors at Thanh Van Banh Cuon on precision at the table by the waiter. Once temperatures that require a few minutes 14B Bao Khan. Every inch of space is used completed, the cuts of fish are served over for the brain to process. They say that to seat customers and you’ll find utensil cold vermicelli noodles and garnished with the eyes never lie and I get a huge kick holders attached to the wall, where polished peanuts, onions, coriander for freshness and from first timers as their eyes, pointed white tiles run from floor to ceiling. texture and finished off withnuoc mam and upwards, search around for the appropriate shrimp paste to round off the flavors. At first adjectives for this beverage. Never has Cha Ca La Vong glance, the nuoc mam seems deceptively there ever been a beverage as polarizing Not trying Cha Ca La Vong while visiting strong to the eye and heavy handed in the as this because it has never failed to ignite Hanoi is sacrilegious. The dish is so famous application but after it’s served, I find myself conversations around the coffee table. they even renamed a street after it. Fried adding more, ensuring each ingredient is Eating what the locals eat is the best way in turmeric oil in a heavy skillet, the given a proper dousing. to know a country, its people and culture. boneless fish fillets are finished off with a liberal dose of dill, an ingredient not seen Chicken Street Bio: Jimmy is an Australian blogger and on many Vietnamese dishes, but one that KFC may dominate the Western world but photographer who has been eating and works perfectly as a supporting ingredient in the capital you can’t beat what is referred photographing his way around the world and not just as a garnish. to as Chicken Street or Ly Van Phuc Street. since April 2013. Follow his adventures at At Cha Ca La Vong on 14 Pho Cha Ca, the Every restaurant pays homage to grilled jimmyeatsworld.com

69 RESORT REVIEW

Back in Time And into the yesteryears of the Central Highlands

The hill station of Dalat emerged out craft shops. It isn’t hard to see what drew bottle of red wine from the restaurant’s of a barren plateau in Vietnam’s Central the colonists to this beautiful, temperate extensive wine list. To finish, we share a Highlands to become Indochina’s premiere region. quintessentially French crème brulée but health and wellness center in the early tinged with fragrant notes from Pandan 20th century, ‘a veritable little paradise, in 7pm ― What better way to honor Dalat’s leaf and topped with mulberry ice cream. a setting of pine trees and gardens full of origins as a spa town, modeled after other We then retire to our gorgeously appointed flowers from Europe.’ ― Physionomie de restful colonial hill stations like Darjeeling room, the shutters having been thoughtfully Dalat en 1937. in British India, than with a visit to the closed, and the bed turned down, ready for Ana Mandara Villas Dalat Resort & Spa resort’s award-winning La Cochinchine a peaceful slumber amidst the rustling pine revives Dalat’s glory days of being part Spa? Set in its own villa, La Cochinchine is trees that beautify the grounds. imperial playground part wellness retreat. renowned for its full menu of treatments including body and beauty care and holistic 8am ― After a gorgeously laid-out buffet 2pm ― Located just on the outskirts of healing as well as more traditional options, breakfast replete with homemade yogurts town, Ana Mandara has 72 rooms and all while incorporating products made with fresh fruit and delectable hot items, suites housed in 17 fully restored French- exclusively from natural ingredients. we explore the extensive seven-hectare era villas, each built between the 1920s and grounds. Only in the daylight can we truly 30s. We check in to our accommodations, 8:30pm ― After a quick freshening up, appreciate the uniqueness of this resort. Villa Suite #304 which has lovely wooden we walk to Le Petit Dalat, Ana Mandara’s The Ana Mandara property features 17 floors, high ceilings and a surprise upstairs signature restaurant. As Dalat is the happy fully restored villas, each wonderfully reading nook. marriage of East Meets West, our dinner unique. We peek into the common reflects fine international cuisine with rooms in each villa ― gorgeous libraries, 2:30pm ― In search of the city’s French an Asian twist. Hot seared sashimi and comfortable sitting rooms and even influences, we hop into the back of the traditional Vietnamese spring rolls start fireplaces for those cool Dalat nights. Our resort’s 1936 Citroën convertible for a ride us off, followed by mains of imported walk takes us past the a chef’s garden, a around town, exactly like the bourgeoisie Australian beef tenderloin and a dish of mini-golf pad and a restful swimming pool of the day, visiting the city’s art deco train grilled chicken marinated in lemongrass, area, where we spend the morning reading station, waterfalls, flower gardens and ginger and oyster sauce, paired with a up on Dalat’s riveting history as the cool-

70 climed Utopia for early colonists suffering the air is cleaner, there are mountains… it’s Dalat Highland Retreat starts at from the heat and discomfort of life in the just more relaxing which makes the food VND2,690,000 net/couple/night in a Villa lowlands and deltas. taste better here than anywhere else.” The Room, Studio or Suite. Includes daily ornamental artichoke flowers and potted breakfast, daily morning yoga class, daily 11am ― Part of Dalat's appeal for turn of cabbage that adorn the space accentuate his healthy & organic lunch or dinner or daily the century colonists was its ability to grow point, a reminder of Dalat’s bounty. Maybe 60-minute refreshing spa treatment, use of fruits and vegetables reminiscent of Europe. it is the fresh mountain air, but our dishes outdoor heated swimming pool, walking A great way to work with the local produce are simply loaded with flavor. trails, gym and other amenities, personal is by taking a cooking class led by Executive butler service, and complimentary WiFi in Chef Huong. While waiting for the skewers 2pm ― All too soon, we’re packing our room and throughout the resort. of minced beef wrapped in wild betel leaves bags. True to its motto, Dat Aliis Laetitiam Valid until September 30, 2014. Minimum to cook, Chef Huong explains that instead of Aliias Temperiem ("Offering joy to some, two-night stay and other conditions having regional specialties, “Dalat’s cuisine and temperate climes to others"), our stay apply. For enquiries, email sales-dalat@ is based mainly on the freshest ingredients in Dalat has been a joyous reprieve from anamanadara-resort.com, visit found in Vietnam. People in the cities say Vietnam’s stifling heat, a wonderful walk anamandara-resort.com or call (84-8) they get vegetables from Dalat, too, but here back into yesteryear. 6291 3030/(84-63) 3555 888.

71 LIFE'S A TRIP

Pack Like a Pro: Part 2 Having visited nearly 60 countries as a travel writer and award-winning photographer, James Pham List, check and bundle blogs about his adventures at FlyIcarusFly.com

In last month’s column, I talked about something different to wear for every you while tucking your casual pair in your the joys of traveling with carry-on only, occasion, including dress-up nights. While carry-on. including what to pack (anything needed that may be okay for trips where you’re When traveling to places with in transit and what you wouldn’t want lost, locked into one destination and don’t plan unpredictable weather or different damaged or stolen) and how to manage on packing and unpacking multiple times, climates, Ali recommends packing your carry-on in transit. more active travelers see the beauty in not clothing you can layer like a jacket with a We’re continuing with that theme and being saddled down. Ali says that “a big removable liner and a water resistant outer I’m joined by Ali Garland, author of the part of limiting the amount of clothing shell. Personally, I love Patagonia down- newly released e-book, Packing Made you pack is being OK with wearing the filled jackets which can compress into a Simple: A Simple Guide to Packing Light same thing two or even three times tiny stuffsack and merino wool t-shirts for (available on Amazon and via her website, without washing it. I'm not talking about cooler weather. www.travel-made-simple.com). underwear, just shirts, shorts, and pants. Even if you’re traveling with checked You’re the only person who will notice.” baggage, you may want to think of packing Choosing Clothing for Carry-on She recommends making sure everything an extra outfit into your carry-on. If your I’ve known people who’ve traveled for coordinates, like jeans and neutral-colored suitcase gets lost, at least you’ll have a more than a year with carry-on only. pants. On most trips, I wear Crocs (yes, I change of clothes while you wait for it to Even if you’re not that hardcore, packing know they’re far from stylish), but they’re arrive or for the 24 hour rule to kick in light does have its advantages. Sure, you great for adventure trips while protecting before you can be reimbursed for essential may not look fabulous all the time, but your feet. I even have ‘dress’ Crocs that are purchases. This is even more important if it’s the price to pay for being mobile. comfortable while being appropriate when you have a special event (like a business I’ve been on one week cruises where I’ve I need to meet with clients. Obviously, if meeting or a wedding) to go to within the seen passengers come on board with two you need bulky shoes, say for hiking or first couple of days at your destination, full suitcases each, ostensibly to have business, wear them on the plane with because no insurance is going to cover

72 TRAVEL Column

Bundle Wrapping

Instructions 1 SHIRT / JACKET (remember that jackets, 2 ANOTHER unlike shirts, face SHIRT OR JACKET Best performed on a flat downward) surface like a bed

3 PANTS 4 ADD THE CORE (if a second pair is 5 added, they extend (this could be a small WRAP PANTS on the opposite pouch containing socks, AROUND CORE direction) underwear etc.)

7 WRAP FINAL SHIRT/JACKET 8 AROUND BUNDLE CONNECT 6 WRAP SHIRT (then place inside INTERNAL AROUND BUNDLE suitcase with straps TIE-DOWNS (wrap the sleeves first, free of bundle) then the body)

bundle wrapping diagram COURTESY OF doug dyment (ONEBAG.COM)

the cost of buying a suit or a gown in the money and half as many clothes as you more than you need. Lately, I’ve been unfortunate event that yours goes AWOL. think you’ll need. using the bundle wrap method, creating a Ali’s advice is: “Remember that the central rectangular core (a packing cube, main focus of your trip is the travel How to Pack for instance) and then wrapping clothes and the vacation itself, not what you're Throughout the years, I’ve experimented around it, from least-to-most likely to wearing. You want to be comfortable and with lots of different ways to pack, and it wrinkle, in alternating directions, like practical, but you don't need to win any all boils down to what kind of trip you’re moving around a compass. Because the best-dressed awards.” taking and what kind of luggage you’re clothes are wrapped and not folded, this using. method avoids wrinkles and creases Packing with Checked Bags If space isn’t a major consideration, while maximizing space. (Watch the great “Traveling with less stuff means less I like using packing cubes. Not quite tutorial on bundle wrapping by NBCNews weight to lug around, which gives you cubes, these are zippered fabric pouches, online.) On a recent trip to Bangkok, an more freedom and flexibility, and this still often with mesh panels, designed to unplanned shopping spree meant I had to holds true even if you’re checking a bag,” keep your things organized. They come take back double the amount of clothes I writes Ali. Just because someone else is in different sizes, and the beauty is you brought. With the bundle method, though, carrying it through the airport and onto can stuff your trousers / shirts in one, I managed to fit an unbelievable amount the plane, you’ll still have to carry it once underwear in another, and toiletries in a into my carry-on. Yes, it was heavy as a you arrive, she says. third. When you get to your hotel, they brick, but it held together. Ali recommends packing a week’s move seamlessly from your suitcase to My last bit of packing advice is to keep worth of clothing at most. Remember, the with minimal unpacking a packing list and use it from one trip hotel laundry services (or even finding required. They’re also great for keeping to the next. Over time, it gets whittled a local laundromat) is always an option. dirty and clean clothes separate, or if down to the true necessities and makes I remember one African trip where we you’re sharing a suitcase with someone, packing a less labor-intensive experience, all washed our own laundry as we went, keeping clothes separate. especially if it’s on your computer where with the overland truck looking like a dry Then there’s the roll vs. fold & stack you can easily add items for special cleaner’s with clothes desperately trying debate. Popular wisdom says rolled occasions or unusual weather. to dry in the humid weather. But for that clothing takes up less space than Ali leaves this parting advice: “If type of trip where you literally couldn’t folding (and also good if you’re using you chronically over-pack, take it slow. carry anything more than what could fit an unstructured bag like a duffel). Then Making a few changes with each trip will in a small locker, packing multiple outfits again, round objects do waste the most help you get used to packing lighter, and wasn’t an option. Choosing a smaller space if you’re talking identical sizes. I’ve you’ll see how much stuff you bring along suitcase will also force you to be more also tried compression bags which seem that you don’t really need. Before you judicious with what you pack. The old like a good idea on paper, but are a pain know it, you’ll be able to pack one small axiom holds true: Take twice as much to prepare and encourage you to pack bag and be on your way!” POSTCARDS FROM VIETNAM

Surprising Sapa Bridget March is a professional artist and author of A Week in Hoi An. Currently she is the artist in residence at Sapa Around every corner is something Rooms Hotel and Art Cafe in Sapa. Bridget is working on a project called Art for Community that will provide a sustainable that you have never seen or maybe income for the school in the poorest district in Sapa. She is also offering art classes and sketching tours in her Sapa studio until never experienced before mid September. For more of Bridget’s work including news of her upcoming book visit bridgetmarch.co.uk. GET YOUR MESSAGE ACROSS

IS YOUR BRAND IDENTITY DRIFTING OUT TO SEA?

Metro Solutions is a team of foreign and Vietnamese specialists assisting foreign

o n BY Br id g et M a r c h illustrati companies in presenting a compelling and professional image to local and/or international consumers. With a proven track record for international-quality professional communications, Metro Solutions delivers complete media packages for businesses and To visit Sapa or the surrounding kinds of treasures. I was lucky enough black skinned chickens. The flesh is blue/ individuals across Asia and beyond. districts is to step into another world. to get a guided tour from chef Quyen black as if they have been dipped in Sometimes, it doesn't even feel like Trinh, a charismatic young man who has indigo but apparently it is a special local you are still in Vietnam. Elevated, risen from shoe shine boy to head chef breed! In the next stall, every part of the ethereal, energizing, exotic, Sapa and got his first job cooking in a small pig is for sale, laid out fresh and pink * Incisive PR copy took me by surprise. hotel right next to the Sapa market. He on scrubbed, black wooded chopping I imagined some kind of French style, knows local produce inside and out. boards. Everywhere are baskets and * Successful online marketing campaigns alpine town nestling on the wooded Our first stop was a traditional bunches of vibrant green herbs and * High-response social media packages slopes of the Hoang Lien Son Mountains herbalist where I discovered medicinal leaves, harvested at dawn and rushed to * Lucid and engaging copywriting work at the eastern extremity of the herbs, local dried mushrooms and fungi the market for sale. On a corner, a tiny * Media-savvy blogs and online articles Himalayas. And, to some extent, that is of every kind, local corn, rice and apple charcuterie of French influence offers METRO exactly what it is. There are now dozens wines, deep red goji berries, medicinal garlic sausage, delicate slices of pork in * Error-free print publishing of small hotels competing for the best dried apples and many other delights. aspic and smoked meats. In the middle, a SOLUTIONS * Promotional eBooks for businesses possible view of the mountains that soar The shopkeeper gave us some local busy kitchen has smoke and steam rising * Personal publishing projects above the valley. Cloud systems move ginseng to sample and we left with a from pots and grills as they prepare for a through the landscape, above and below bag of interesting ingredients to cook busy lunch hour. * Ghostwriting in all styles you, changing the weather from moment for dinner. The whole market is an intoxicating * Gorgeous photographic assignments to moment. It's very dramatic. On our way across to the meat and experience. Quyen is passionate about In the heart of the town is a colorful, fish vendors, we stopped to buy a bunch Sapa foods and is well-known for his traditional market with lots of foods and of lychees from the new harvest. These fresh, colorful cuisine. That evening we goods I had never seen before. Minority fluorescent fruits are the most colorful had stir-fried chicken with goji berries www.metrosolutions.asia people from five different ethnicities crop at this time of year and stalls are and the dried apples served with local come to sell their crops and fascinating loaded with them. rice and steamed cho ko leaves - such antique textiles. It is a visual feast of all In the meat stalls we found some delicious new flavors! Contact: Kate Tu 091 800 7160 l 08 3943 4223

74 GET YOUR MESSAGE ACROSS

IS YOUR BRAND IDENTITY DRIFTING OUT TO SEA?

Metro Solutions is a team of foreign and Vietnamese specialists assisting foreign companies in presenting a compelling and professional image to local and/or international consumers. With a proven track record for international-quality professional communications, Metro Solutions delivers complete media packages for businesses and individuals across Asia and beyond.

* Incisive PR copy * Successful online marketing campaigns * High-response social media packages * Lucid and engaging copywriting work METRO * Media-savvy blogs and online articles * Error-free print publishing SOLUTIONS * Promotional eBooks for businesses * Personal publishing projects * Ghostwriting in all styles * Gorgeous photographic assignments www.metrosolutions.asia

Contact: Kate Tu 091 800 7160 l 08 3943 4223

75 The List

Atexpats is Ho Chi Minh City's first truly Travel & Leisure comprehensive insider's guide for foreign residents

132-134 Dong Khoi, D 1 Lotte Legend Hotel Saigon and Fit and Spa Lounge by Pullman. hotels 3829 9201 148 Tran Hung Dao, D1 www.continentalsaigon.com Classic hotel offering 5 star amenities HO CHI MINH CITY along with a scenic view of the Saigon Renaissance Riverside Hotel Norfolk Hotel River, and providing a unique culinary TWO STAR experience with many options for fine A five-star hotel located in the heart of Chic, warm exterior with boutique dining. Saigon’s business and entertainment Bali Hotel charms within, this property is an ideal 2A-4A Ton Duc Thang, D 1 district. The hotel's 336 rooms and Ideally-located for attendees to escape for business travellers from the 3823 3333 suites offer an incredible view of the any exhibitions held at the Saigon plasticity of chain hotels. www.legendsaigon.com Saigon River as well as over the city. Exhibition and Convention Centre, Bali 117 Le Thanh Ton, D 1 Each guest room is designed and Boutique is flash and modern in style - 3829 3415 Majestic Saigon furnished with discerning business with a little touch of the plush thrown in www.norfolkhotel.com.vn and leisure travelers in mind. Choose for good measure. One of HCMC’s oldest and most a deluxe room or suite with large desk 39 - 41 Hung Phuoc Villas, D 7 Novotel Saigon Centre characteristic hotels, the Majestic on and ample lighting, in-room coffee and 54104747 the Saigon River with its grand French tea service, high speed internet, safe, One of HCMC’s newest hotels, Novotel architecture is just a few steps away well-stocked mini-bar as well as the jack Cat Huy Hotel is located on busy Hai Ba Trung St, just from Saigon’s premiere attractions. bag (connectivity kit). Cat Huy is the best-kept secret of within walking distance of downtown 01 Dong Khoi, D 1 8-15 Ton Duc Thang, D1 the backpacker district, located in a attractions. It’s everything you’d expect 3829 5517 3822 0033 peaceful and very local-looking alley from the international brand with www.majesticsaigon.com.vn www.marriott.com/hotels/travel/sgnbr- close to the downtown area of Ho Chi 24-seven guest services and a broad renaissance-riverside-hotel-saigon Minh City, but culturally part of deep dining offer. Moevenpick Hotel Saigon suburban Saigon. 167 Hai Ba Trung, D 1 Rex Hotel Saigon 353/28, Pham Ngu Lao, D 1 3822 4866 An international hotel chain with Swiss 39208717 www.novotel.com roots, this comfortable hotel caters to Rex Hotel has consistently won awards both businesspeople and families with for being one of the best hotels in THREE STAR Park Royal Saigon Hotel fine dining options, a fitness centre, and Asia. Impeccable dining options, great multiple conference rooms. location, and 5 star amenities make this EMM Hotel Saigon Park Royal Saigon Hotel is an ideally 253 Nguyen Van Troi Apartments, Phu recently refurbished hotel a preferred The 56 air-conditioned guestrooms placed conference hotel which caters Nhuan destination for travellers with generous at EMM Hotel Saigon include laptop- to all MICE needs. The hotel offers a 3844 9222 budgets. compatible safes and minibars. wide array of banquet services and can www.moevenpick-hotels.com 141, Nguyen Hue, Ben Nghe, D 1 Complimentary wireless and wired accommodate 30 to 300 guests. 38292185 high-speed Internet access and in-room 309B-311 Nguyen Van Troi, Tan Binh New World Saigon Hotel www.rexhotelvietnam.com refrigerators are provided. 32-inch LED www.parkroyalhotels.com Oi’s Pick TVs are equipped with premium cable One of the most impressive business Saigon Domaine Luxury Residences channels. All accommodations provide FIVE STAR hotels in Ho Chi Minh City, with Oi’s Pick desks, safes, and direct-dial phones. stunning views and 5 star amenities. High-class getaway hotel located 157 Pasteur, D3 Caravelle Hotel 533 luxury rooms and suites offering out of the city centre on exotic Thanh 01663221322 the perfect ambience for concentrated Da Island, allowing guests to escape Ibis Hotel Saigon South Part of the city’s modern history since work and undisturbed relaxation. from the chaos of the city life while 1959, few properties in Saigon are quite 76 Le Lai, D 1 remaining close to the action. The 3-star Ibis Hotel Saigon South is as iconic. A major center for foreign 3822 8888 More hotel than apartment complex, located in front of Saigon Exhibition and correspondents during the war, it has [email protected] The Domaine’s private residences are Convention Centre and only 15 minutes emerged as a plush and vibrant luxury www.saigon.newworldhotels.com classic and luxurious, making the most from the city centre. It features 140 hotel in the present era. of the natural surroundings. rooms with free Wifi internet access, a Caravelle Hotel is one of the city’s Nikko Saigon 1057 Binh Quoi, Binh Thanh restaurant/bar and 3 meeting rooms. classiest icons and represents a 3556 1145 There is a free Ibis shuttle available to One of the city’s newest true slice of Saigon’s history while www.saigondomaine.com and from the hotel to major corporate remaining one of its most luxurious accommodation jewels, this lavish hotel offices and the city centre. is designed to make the maximum places to stay. Sheraton Saigon Hotel And Towers 73 Hoang Van Thai, D7 impression of austere Japanese-style 19 Lam Son Square, D 1 www.ibis.com class from the lobby upwards. This is 3823 4999 Located in the heart of Ho Chi Minh one of the most luxurious hotels in www.caravellehotel.com City vibrant business and entertainment Sunland Hotels HCMC, with classic, precise and elegant district, Sheraton Saigon Hotel & Towers Located about 35 minutes from Tan decor. Equatorial Ho Chi Minh City is a 5 star haven of convenience, Son Nhat Airport, Sunland is a three star 235 Nguyen Van Cu, D 1 connecting guests with colleagues and hotel with 90 rooms and suites. The 3925 7777 An international hotel located where the friends. hotel also comprise a Sky Bar and Sun www.hotelnikkosaigon.com.vn Coffee Lounge. borders of the city’s four main districts 88 Dong Khoi, D 1 302-304 Vo Van Kiet, D1 meet. The city’s major commercial and Park Hyatt Saigon 3827 2828 9922 3833 entertainment area is only an 8-minute [email protected] www.sunlandhotel.vn drive away. Without a doubt the city’s most 242 Tran Binh Trong, D 5 luxurious hotel, Park Hyatt Saigon Sofitel Saigon Plaza Hotel Tan Hai Long Hotel & Spa 38397777 features French colonial inspired Three-star Tan Hai Long Hotel offers www.equatorial.com/hcm rooms, two award-winning restaurants, The Sofitel Saigon Plaza is located 106 rooms and suites, all boasting a an outdoor pool and a stylish in the city center, in the heart of the view of the city and Ben Thanh Market. InterContinental Asiana Saigon contemporary bar. The exterior is the business district and close to Notre Its conference room can accommodate Oi’s Pick result of meticulous research into the Dame Cathedral and Reunification up to 110 people with modern facilities. Located in the heart of Ho Chi Minh colonial architecture of the region. Palace. 275 elegant rooms and 11 suites, It also houses two dining venues, the City, the InterContinental Asiana 2 Lam Son Square, D 1 a swimming pool, and a fitness center. La Terrasse Restaurant and L’emotion Saigon is dedicated to providing 3824 1234 17 Le Duan, D 1 Lounge Bar & Coffee. local, authentic, and enriching travel www.saigon.park.hyatt.com 3824 1555 14-16 Le Lai, D1 experiences. Decorated in tasteful [email protected] www.tanhailonghotel.com.vn oriental flair, the hotel is dedicated to Pullman www.sofitel.com/gb/hotel-2077-sofitel- representing the charms of Asia and saigon-plaza/index.shtml 3827 2738 ats evokes the mystique of this beautiful The 306-room hotel features a te xp

FOUR STAR continent and its cultures. Right next to contemporary design, a wide range of Windsor Plaza A Saigon’s key landmarks, this hotel is technological facilities, four bars and Hotel Continental Saigon ideally placed for high-class travellers restaurants and five meeting venues. Located in the heritage area of old and groups seeking a high standard of Offers signature services including Cholon, the Windsor offers authentic One of Saigon’s oldest hotels, most accommodation. Full MICE areas and Welcomer, optimal connectivity with the Vietnamese and Chinese hospitality graceful colonial properties, and historic facilities are on-site. Connectivity by Pullman concept (free with a mix of commercial, cultural, and places to stay, it is perhaps most Corner Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, D1 high-speed wifi throughout the hotel, retail experiences - and they put on a famous as the location where much of 3520 9999 Quadriga’s Personal Media Network fine buffet. Graham Greene’s The Quiet American [email protected] mobile application), the Co-Meeting 18 An Duong Vuong, D 5 was written in room 214. www.intercontinental.com/saigon offer for business event and functions www.windsorplazahotel.com ©2014 Co pyri g ht L istin g s

76 CON DAO ISLAND tradition of Vietnamese hospitality. Sheraton Hanoi guest the option of experiencing a 12 Tran Phu, Dalat beach getaway in ultimate privacy. That Six Senses Con Dao 06 3382 5444 Perfectly located by the shores of the has helped Mia Resort Nha Trang to gain [email protected] largest lake in Hanoi and surrounded numerous accolades including Finalist True to the Six Senses philosophy by a beautifully landscaped garden of Best New Boutique Hotel In The of selecting remote (but accessible) DANANG and courtyard, the hotel provides the World; Runner up of Best Budget Hotel- destinations in areas of outstanding perfect balance between tranquillity and The Smith Hotel Awards 2013; and the Furama Resort Danang natural beauty, Con Dao is an convenience. Certificate of Excellence 2012, 2013 and untouched and breathtakingly beautiful K5 Nghi Tam, 11 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Hanoi 2014 from TripAdvisor. The Furama Resort enjoys a stunning area. Con Dao has been built with the Bai Dong, Cam Hai Dong, Cam Lam beachfront location on one of very lightest , with The Sofitel Legend Metropole Hanoi www.mianhatrang.com villas set up along a mile of sandy Vietnam’s finest beaches, fringed by natural pines and coconut palms. Two Oi’s Pick beach, sheltered by the green forested Features include 364 rooms and Six Senses Ninh Van Bay hills behind and with stunning vistas four-storey wings overlook the ocean on one side and a freshwater swimming suites, excellent French cuisine at Le of the deep blue sea and the curve of Beaulieu, Vietnamese specialities at The resort is one of Asia’s most the bay. lagoon and manicured tropical gardens on the others. Spices Garden, and Angelina - Hanoi's exclusive and intimate beach escapes, Dat Doc Beach, Con Dao, Con Son Truong Sa, Ngu Hanh Son, Danang most ""avant garde"" Italian Restaurant sitting on dramatic Ninh Van Bay, & Lounge. Seven function rooms, a with its impressive rock formations DALAT Fusion Maia swimming pool, fitness centre and the overlooking the South China Sea, white Le Spa du Metropole are also available sand beach and towering mountains Ana Mandara Villas Dalat It is the first all-pool villa- style resort in the hotel. behind. in the destination and offers 87 pool 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi Ninh Van, Khanh Hoa Ana Mandara Villas Dalat comprises suites, spa villas, and beach villas [email protected] seventeen restored French-style villas each with modern, open-plan living Sheraton Nha Trang from the 1920's and 1930's, preserving and private courtyard with swimming HOI AN the original design, décor and charm, is Sheraton Nha Trang Hotel & Spa offers pool. Customize-your-stay options and ten categories of accommodation – and set in the cool climate of the rural breakfast available at multiple locations The Nam Hai highlands of Central Vietnam. Striking from spacious, deluxe rooms to 70m2 are a few of the surprising offers in A stunning all-villa resort located on the executive suites and a huge presidential views of the surrounding town and store. pristine China Beach featuring 60 one- suite. With exemplary conference countryside abound from all areas of Truong Sa, Ngu Hanh Son, Danang bedroom retreats as well as 40 privately- the gently sloping hillside property. facilities, this is the number-one MICE owned two-to-five bedroom residences resort in the region. Le Lai, Phuong 5, Dalat Pullman Danang Beach Resort each with a private infinity pool. www.anamandara-resort.com 26-28 Tran Phu, Nha Trang 1 Dien Duong Village, Dien Ban, (0) 63 3555 888 05 8388 0000 Located on the stunning white sands Quang Nam of Bac My An beach, the friendly and Blue Moon Hotel & Spa PHAN THIET modern Pullman Danang Beach Resort Boutique Hoi An Resort Oi’s Pick is an oasis of fun. It has 187 guest Located in the heart of breathtaking Dalat, Anantara Mui Ne Resort & Spa rooms and cottages and offers warm Boutique Hoi An Resort offers 82 the Blue Moon Resort & Spa is designed and genuine Vietnamese service. The rooms and villas, with all rooms facing The new face of the former l’Anmien, to complement the natural beauty of the resort is perfect for a family holiday or a the sea with private balconies. Other this resort offers an exclusive haven of "City of Eternal Spring.” Built opposite romantic beach getaway facilities include spa with 3 treatment luxury and relaxation in a spectacular the popular and tranquil Xuan Huong Vo Nguyen Giap, Khue My, Ngu Hanh Son rooms and 5 massage pavilions, fully- beachfront location right in the heart of Lake, Blue Moon is centrally located and (0) 511 395 8888 equipped gym, restaurant, lobby lounge Mui Ne. The only property in the Mui Ne convenient to Dalat's eating, shopping [email protected] and pool bar and conference facilities district with full conferencing facilities and entertainment spots.Much more accommodating 80 guests for dinner and a range of exclusive villas – and it than just a comfortable night’s sleep, HALONG BAY functions and 130 guests for cocktail has an impressive wine cellar. Blue Moon Resort & Spa invites you to parties. Mui Ne experience true hospitality. Novotel Halong Bay Group 6, Block Tan Thinh, Ward Cam An, 4 Phan Boi Chau, Dalat 67, Vietnam Muine Bay Resort A glimpse into contemporary Vietnam Hoi An City www.bluemoonhotel.com.vn/bluemoon2 Located in the Mui Ne Bay and with echoes of the country’s intricate www.boutiquehoianresort.com Dalat Edensee Lake Resort & Spa past through its elegant interior décor. overlooking the Hon Lao pristine island Sturdy polished stone, glass and HUE of blue sea, Muine Bay Resort includes 103 rooms in 4-stars standard of which 32 Dalat Edensee Lake Resort & Spa marble stand against the delicate bungalows designed and inspired by the is perched on an idyllic location Asian textures of silk, wickerwork and Ana Mandara Hue overlooking Tuyen Lam lake and gently carved wood. With sweeping windows Cham Tower. undulating hills. It has four categories and large mirrors, the hotel captures Located a scenic 15km drive from Khu pho 14, Mui Ne Ward , Phan Thiet of rooms, including VIP villas, all with panoramic views of Halong Bay and its central Hue, this is spacious resort with www.muinebayresort.com stunningly furnished rooms, spacious spectacular seascapes at every turn. the largest villas and rooms in the area. 0622220222 balconies offering sweeping mountain Ha Long Road, Bai Chay Ward, Ha Long City The property includes private pool villas, and/or lake view, and subtle finishing [email protected] beach villas, duplex and deluxe rooms touches. in a wide range of styles and decor Tuyen Lam Lake, Zone VII.2, Dalat TUAN CHAU RESORT designed with complete and modern (063) 383 1515 facilities. www.dalatedensee.com Tuan Chau Resort is constructed in the An Hai Village, Thuan An Town, Hue Phu style of classical French and modern Vang Dalat Green City Hotel Oi’s Pick Vietnamese architecture. This is the Budget hotel in the center of Dalat. Five ideal place to find white sands, blue La Residence Hotel & Spa ocean, and the rejuvenative energy of minutes from most major attractions the Vietnamese tropical sun. in Dalat. Newly refurbished. Beautiful This former French Governor’s Tuan Chau Island, Ha Long City mountain and city views from the rooftop. residence dates to 1930 and is a masterpiece of art deco design. Its Features free WIFI, TV, snack bar in all HANOI rooms. Coffee shop downstairs. Airport incredible location overlooking the Novela Muine pickup by private car. Motorbike rental. Citadel and the Perfume River brings Resort & Spa Hilton Hanoi Opera Tour information. Laundry. Computers in this 122-room hotel a total and serene A 150-meter tranquillity. The hotel features a 40m beach resort that lobby for public use. This landmark of Hanoi was inspired 172 Phan Dinh Phung, Dalat outdoor salt swimming pool at river offers luxurious by the famous Opera House located height giving the illusion of merging accommodations, (063) 3827 999 nearby. A hotel of great beauty and into the Perfume River. Ideal for countless modern facilities and www.dalatgreencityhotel.com luxury, the Hilton stands in the city’s executive retreats and exotic incentives amenities with attentive services. A fashionable and elegant French Dalat Train Villa & Cafe Oi’s Pick programmes. private and unique space in the heart Quarter, and is within close range of of resort, Novela restaurant serves Located near the Dalat Train Station, the 5 Le Loi, Hue the charming Old Quarter and bustling a daily breakfast, lunch, dinner and Dalat Train Villa is for short or long staying Business District. NHA TRANG any other banquet with Asian and guests. The villa is a restored 2-story 1 Le Thanh Tong, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi European cuisine. With two floors, French colonial-era villa. Next to the villa guests can enjoy wining and dining is a French train car, which has been Intercontinental Westlake Evason Ana Mandara and view the beautiful beach and renovated into a bar/cafe/restaurant. The exclusive location affords city- sand hill. Romantic venue. From the lake, take first Superbly situated on the serene waters centre access to Nha Trang’s only 96A Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Ham Tien ats left after Dalat Train Station. of Hanoi’s West Lake and adjacent beachfront resort. It is surrounded Mui Ne, Phan Thiet 1 Quang Trung St, Ward 9, Villa #3 to the famous 800-year-old Golden by private tropical gardens, offering www.novelaresort.vn te xp

A Lotus (Kim Lien) Pagoda. Conveniently simplicity, serenity and refinement (62) 374 3456 Sofitel Dalat Palace located and yet able to offer a retreat together with spectacular views of Nha from the hustle and bustle of downtown Trang Bay. Unforgettable incentive Hotel Sofitel Dalat Palace is one of the Hanoi, the combination of spacious experience. Princess d’Annam most beautiful and amongst the few luxurious accommodations, facilities, Beachside Tran Phu Boulevard, Nha Trang remaining historical hotels in Southeast and attentive Vietnamese hospitality The two Empress Suites are the Asia. Built in 1922 and meticulously make this the perfect place to stay Mia Nha Trang pinnacle of luxury accommodation in restored in 1995 to its original grandeur, for both the corporate and leisure Every one of the 50 rooms has a sea Vietnam – they are mini millionaire’s the Sofitel Dalat Palace offers traveler. view and each has its own private mansions in themselves, fully-equipped,

©2014 Co pyri g ht L istin g s individualized service in the finest 1a Nghi Tam Tay Ho, Hanoi veranda, which offers the discerning bright and spacious, and possessing of

77 the same ethereal design quality that are so far unmatched in Vietnam. . Saigon Opera House Somerset Chancellor Court pervades this whole resort. Set in the Ghenh Rang, Bai Dai Beach, Quy Nhon, The Municipal Theater is a thriving Each of these 172 spacious serviced remote Ke Ga Bay, wordlessly beautiful. Binh Dinh performance centre with regular apartments in District 1 is fully- Hon Lan, Binh Thuan musical and cultural shows - furnished with an open kitchen 06 2368 2222 Bai Tram Resort and Spa predominantly of the classical, high- concept, contemporary western style Bai Tram is based on holistic ideals and brow, and top-dollar variety. décor, and a large balcony. The Cliff Resort and Residences the search for environmental balance 7 Lam Son Square, D1 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D 1 Offers 128 rooms equipped with a myriad embodying the trend towards seeing of amenities such as 3D smart TV, safe ourselves, the natural world, and the 38229197 and mini bar as well as private bathroom. man-made environment as one. serviced apartments It boasts an extensive lap pool, a kid’s pool Hoa Loi, Xuan Canh, Song Cau, Phu Yen Somerset Vista Ho Chi Minh City and pool bar as well as submerged on Diamond Island Luxury Residences It has an extensive array of modern deck swimming pool chairs. Its restaurant VUNG TAU Diamond Island Luxury Residences offers facilities and provides convenient serves a selection of local seafood 68 fully-furnished apartments, ranging access to a hypermarket, international specialties and Western cuisine. The Grand-Ho Tram Strip from two- to four-bedroom units with schools, a medical clinic, retail outlets Zone 5, Phu Hai Ward, Phan Thiet The Grand - Ho Tram Strip is Vietnam's private balconies providing panoramic and offices. www.thecliffresort-binhthuan.com first largest integrated resort and views of the stunning surroundings. Each 628C Hanoi Highway, D2 ultimately will include an 1,100-room apartment comes with a fully-equipped 6255 9900 kitchen, en-suite bathrooms, separate The Sailing Beach Resort five-star hotel, a world-class casino, www.somerset.com/vietnam work and living areas. Each lavish Offers a contemporary setting in sensual restaurants, high-tech meeting space, space features plush interiors, modern tropical harmony that befits its bay host. an exclusive VIP area, as well as The Landmark a variety of beach-front recreation amenities, elegant furnishings and All 192 rooms, with spacious private carefully chosen trimmings and fixtures, The Landmark features serviced balconies affording stunning ocean views, activities. The first 541-room tower of apartments, offices, luxury dining, sports this development opened in July 2013 creating a luxurious harmony of comfort are scattered across tropical vegetation, andtranquility that will have you relaxed clubs, swimming pool at the rooftop with its casino including 90 live tables ponds and rests steps from an endless and recharged, and functioning at peak of the building with great views of the and 614 electronic game positions. The beach. performance. Saigon River. It offers one bedroom, two second 559-room tower is on track to 107 Ho Xuan Huong, Phan Thiet No 01 – Street No.104-BTT, Quarter 3, Binh open in 2015. bedroom and three bedroom units for Trung Tay Ward, D2 rent. Amenities offered include wireless WindFlower Beach Boutique Hotel Phuoc Thuan , Xuyen Moc 096 829 3388 / 3742 5678 District broadband Internet access, 100 percent Located in the resort capital of Vietnam www.the-ascott.com power backup, room service, maid – Mui Ne Bay, WindFlower Beach service and laundry, 24-hour reception Boutique Hotel offers an intimate www.thegrandhotramstrip.com InterContinental Asiana Saigon cinemas & theaters and airport shuttle service. setting for guests to enjoy a getaway Residences 5B Ton Duc Thang, D1 on the beach to its fullest. The hotel is It’s a 31-floor tower with 260 rooms; the home to 24 cozy deluxe rooms with Residences offers superb panoramic www.thelandmarkvietnam.com services and sophistication that are views of downtown area and is part of expected from a beach boutique hotel. the Kumho Asiana Plaza - the city’s travel agencies 76 Huynh Thuc Khang, Mui Ne finest integrated complex featuring (Vietnamese) (06) 2374 3969 / (English) commercial, hotel, residential and 090 291 3969 a diverse choice of wining and Asiana Travel Mate dining outlets. They will also benefit www.windflowermuine.com Offering tours to magnificent scenic from the preferred amenities at the areas in Vietnam, Laos, Cambodia, InterContinental Asiana Saigon next Indonesia, and India - the firm has PHU QUOC ISLAND door. strong purchasing power in these Corner of Le Van Huu & Nguyen Du Chen Sea Resort & Spa 3520 8888 regions, allowing it to offer heavily A O Show discounted rates. Located in a quiet bay, this resort A O Show is a unique 92-96 Nguyen Hue, D1 allows guests to enjoy the peace and blend of bamboo cirque, natural beauty of Phu Quoc while also acrobatic acts, and BeenInAsia.com enjoying the exclusive atmosphere that theatrical visual drama. Online travel in Southeast Asia. Offers the location suggests and the resort It depicts the charming beauty of you selection of best hotels and great offers. Southern Vietnamese life in villages tours. Create your own trip or we can Bai Xep, Phu Quoc & cities, where the richness of its tailor make your itinerary. culture remains despite inevitable www.beeninasia.com Saigon Phu Quoc Resort urbanization. Live traditional music Located on a hill of coconut palm trees, which echoes of rural work songs, Buffalo Tours Saigon Phu Quoc is a beautiful, quiet scenic and lighting design makes the A premium travel agency that helps seaside resort with plenty of sunshine. A O Show, which is performed at the 115-year-old historic Saigon Opera travelers customize their itinerary and Just 10 minutes from the airport, the resort House, worth seeing when you visit destination packages. From corporate is an ideal haven for relaxing, fishing, Ho Chi Minh City. Jasmine Court to small tour packages available. trekking, snorkeling, and scuba diving. 7 Cong Truong Lam Son, D1 62 Tran Hung Dao, Phu Quoc Located on a peaceful and beautiful 81 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 [email protected] www.buffalotours.com.vn 07 7384 6999 www.aoshowsaigon.com side street off Nguyen Van Troi Boulevard, only 5 minutes from the La Veranda Tan Son Nhat International Airport Exotissimo Travel Ben Thanh Theatre and 15 minutes to the city centre, Exotissimo Travel offers tours to Vietnam, The most distinguished of Phu Quoc this boutique property with only 12 the region and the whole wide world ! Once the cultural center of District 1 apartments is comprised of one and Island's hotels and guesthouses, La Local and regional tours when it was built in 1995, this is a good two-bedroom suites of various sizes. for family and visitors are quick and easy Veranda sports paddle fans, butter- air-conditioned theater for Vietnamese All apartments are designed in a fresh yellow exteriors, whitewashed louvers, shows & cultural activities that can contemporary style and finished in a to arrange, from standard to higher-end and tropical gardens recalling a colonial accommodate over 1000 people. pleasing neutral colour scheme. With versions. Less common plantation. Freestanding deluxe villas 6 Mac Dinh Chi, D1 personalized service, our warm and requests are tailor-built for you by friendly are notable for their sea-facing porches, attentive staff will make your stay online operators and/or the pleasant spacious bathrooms, and cathedral CT Plaza Megastar with us a pleasant and enjoyable District 2 location office. ceilings. This theater complex offers close experience. A District 1 presence will re-open soon. Tran Hung Dao, Duong Dong Beach proximity to shops for shoppers and 307/29 Nguyen Van Troi, Tan Binh 41 Thao Dien, D2 many other attractions. Large cinema 08 3844 6639 - 092 669 9033 www.exotissimo.com Paris Beach Resort Oi’s Pick complex on the 7th floor with 3D www.jasminecourt.com.vn [email protected] Owned and managed by a friendly and and VIP room. hospitable French-Vietnamese woman Level 10, 60A Truong Son, Tan Binh Inside Asia Travel and her French husband, the resort is Norfolk Mansion A comfortable serviced luxury Inside Asia Travel is a boutique located about a 15-minute taxi ride from Galaxy luxury travel provider of tailor made the airport. It has an outdoor swimming apartment in the city center, the Norfolk Vietnamese cinema showing travel arrangements for English pool, a private beachfront, recreation room, features an outdoor pool, gym & , international and domestic films. speaking expats and travelers bicycles and a restaurant serving local and and high-class Cantonese restaurant. 116 Nguyen Du, D1 through Southeast Asia. Guests enjoy French food. Each room or bungalow has 17-19-21, Ly Tu Trong, D 1 highly personalized, bespoke travel air conditioning, a mini bar, cable TV and Ho Chi Minh Conservatory Of Music Somerset Ho Chi Minh City arrangements suited to individual free Wi-Fi. They also offer tours around One of three conservatories in ats Designed with families in mind, it tastes and budget. the island. Vietnam, offering world class musical provides relocating executives the www.insideasiatravel.com te xp

Cua Lap, Duong To, Phu Quoc education and performances. A space and security to build a warm 3844 1005 (Ext: 221) Concerts at the local Ho Chi Minh City and comfortable home. Friendly staff QUY NHON Music School. are always on hand to help with local Saigon River Tour 112 Nguyen Du, D1 knowledge. You can join in a wide Life Wellness Resort Quy Nhon range of social, cultural and lifestyle Established in 1998, Saigon River Tour A hide-away style spa and beach IDECAF Drama Theatre activities, especially designed to help provides speedboat services and destination set in 13.5 hectares of IDECAF is a theater holding French you integrate into the local culture. speedboat tours (ecotourism, Cu Chi private mountainous land and beach. cultural exchanges as well as offering 8A Nguyen Binh Khiem, D1 Tunnels, Mekong Delta) from Bach The tranquillity, splendid views, Cham- courses in French. 3822 8899 Dang Pier. inspired architecture and surroundings 31 Thai Van Lung, D1 www.somerset.com/vietnam 10b Ton Duc Thang, D1 ©2014 Co pyri g ht L istin g s

78 Living

IMAGE BY MINH TUAN

Romantic Notions

Inspired by the French classical period, Huynh Kim Hien Design House has launched a Royal Collection that harmonizes luxury with romance

79 80 Producer: Nguyen Tra My Director: Hoang Dao Photographer: Minh Tuan Model: Actress Van Thanh Makeup: Duy Lee Hair: Giau Tang Assistant: Vinh Hung & Stylist: Huynh Kim Hien

81 HEALTH feature

My morning shift at the Reproductive Healthcare (RH) Center had ended. I’d recently been transferred to the pre-abortion counseling room from the youth-only Unplanned examination room across the hall, and it was time for lunch. I’d set out for Vietnam from the US under the auspices of a research grant to understand the experiences of young Parenthood people in accessing sexual and reproductive healthcare in Vietnam in its socio-economic, cultural, and legal context. It had made sense A day inside an abortion center to begin my observations in the youth-only examination room in the only RH facility Text by Annie Hoang Images by Ngoc Tran in Saigon catering specifically to women 24 years and under. However, as the weeks passed by, what started out as just a general ethnographic exploration of reproductive health turned into a focused interest in the “abortion epidemic”. I didn’t fully understand what the big deal was until I noticed that nearly half of my female patients came in for an abortion-related issue and for many, this was not their first time. To provide some real numbers from my fieldwork so far, the center received 208 and 218 abortion cases respectively in January and February 2014. During those two months, young people aged 24 years and under accounted for one-third of those cases. Aggregating the data from the first six months in 2014, Hung Vuong Hospital had a monthly average of 1,321 medical abortion cases, where surgical abortions consistently accounted for nearly 25 percent of the total number. It has been previously estimated that in Saigon alone an average of 200 abortions take place every day. After having lunch in the center’s cafeteria, I was walking upstairs when I noticed a young woman in tears, sitting alone on those blue waiting chairs outside the pre-abortion counseling room. I sat down next to her and asked her what was wrong. She replied, “toi dua be trong bung,” expressing her guilt about the baby inside her. I realized from her statement that she was about to have an abortion that afternoon. To protect her identity, I will refer to her as Lan. Lan’s fetus was 11-weeks-old. Because medical abortions (the abortion pill) are not allowed after eight weeks at the center, she was going to have to be sedated and have a vacuum aspiration procedure. It’s exactly what it sounds like – she was going to have a suction machine empty her uterus. In Vietnam, abortions can be performed legally up to the 22nd week, and only the major Ob-Gyn hospitals such as Hung Vuong Hospital and Tu Du Hospital are authorized to perform abortions in cases over 12 weeks. This center accepts abortions only within the first trimester. I was surprised enough to find out that Lan was 17-years-old. But what shocked me more was her doctor’s decision to allow Lan to have an abortion without her parents’ permission. In Vietnam, anyone under 18 must have a parent with them to provide consent. I found out later that, specifically at this center, when the patient is 17 there tends to be a gray zone where the doctor

82 in question may allow the procedure to take place depending on the patient’s “I was surprised enough to find out that circumstances. After learning more about Lan’s background, I understood the doctor’s Lan was 17-years-old. But what shocked decision. She had come all the way from Dong Nai Province alone. She had been living me more was her doctor’s decision to with her sick grandmother while her mother allow Lan to have an abortion without lived with her third husband in Taiwan. The whereabouts of her biological father was her parents’ permission” unclear, and his side of the family did not acknowledge her. The only person she knew who lived in Saigon was her 19-year-old boyfriend. They had been in a long-distance relationship for nearly six months. Most abortion patients are accompanied by their partners, but Lan’s boyfriend couldn’t get out of work that day and instead just gave her some money for the procedure. Misconceptions About Contraceptives Why did Lan wait nearly three months? She explained that her periods were usually irregular, so she didn’t think to take a pregnancy test after her first missed period. This is a common response given by many abortion patients. I learned that the couple had never used condoms. When asked why, she said she’d never really brought it up with her boyfriend and neither had he - another common response. Most of my female patients, whether seeking abortions or not, have expressed their hesitancy in negotiating condom use with their partners and many end up shifting that responsibility to the man. This means if their partner does not bring up the topic, the conversation will never happen. And of those who do raise it, their partners sometimes refuse to use them. As a result, many female patients abuse emergency contraception – sometimes at the behest of their partner, and sometimes without their partner’s knowledge. Not surprisingly, Lan Annie Hoang had used emergency contraception after every time she had sex. Why didn’t Lan use any of the hormonal contraception methods available, such as refused to use condoms. There was another possible side effects of the procedure and the IUD, the implant, the shot, or the pill? case where the partner discovered that experienced a lackadaisical, 30 second Like most patients I’ve encountered, she the condom broke but neglected to tell his contraceptive counseling session that didn’t know what the implant and shot were girlfriend because he didn’t think it was a consisted of the midwife routinely asking and thought the IUD was only for married big deal. her which birth control method she would women with kids. She also believed in the The alarm rang, indicating that my lunch use after the abortion – instead of properly widely-held misconception that hormonal break was over. It was time for Lan to enter taking the time to explain her options. contraception leads to sterility. Many of the pre-abortion counseling room. When Intimidated and uncomfortable, Lan them have heard a combination of horror she walked in, I saw the entire room looking quickly replied she would use condoms, stories and misinformation – mostly from at her with judgmental eyes. The midwives before slipping out of the door and heading the internet and older women – and are were surprised that she had no one at all towards the changing room. understandably apprehensive about certain to accompany her. In fact, they were quite The abortion procedure took less than 15 birth control methods. hostile to her, something that I see happen minutes. I went to visit her afterwards in Moreover, because of this “if it’s not to young female patients every day. They one of the resting rooms and she seemed natural, it’s harmful” belief and general asked, “If something serious happens to clearly tired and weak. I was outside ignorance about birth control, many of my you, who will take care of you?” I thought the room when I saw a midwife and the patients experience reproductive coercion this was an ironic question considering she Director standing by her bed. I saw the or birth control sabotage by their partners was at a medical center staffed with doctors Director place some money in Lan’s hand – a situation where a man attempts to and nurses – precisely the people charged to help her cover her hotel expenses. They adversely manipulate a woman’s use of to “take care” of someone when something recommended she stay at the center until birth control, undermining her efforts to medical goes wrong. The head midwife closing and then walk to the nearest hotel prevent an unwanted pregnancy. I had a almost denied her the abortion for this reason and stay in Saigon overnight instead of case where a young patient had to have an until the doctor who was performing it gave taking a three hour ride back to Dong Nai. It abortion because her partner didn’t tell her the OK. That doctor was also the Director of was a rare and sincere moment of kindness he ejaculated in her. He didn’t want her to the Center. that contrasted with the sour hospitality use emergency contraception for fear that Lan signed the abortion agreement form, provided earlier by the medical staff. And she would be sterile after usage. He also received information about the risks and for once, I couldn't help but smile.

83 HOME INTERIOR

A Colorful Guy As an interior and furniture designer for Austin Home Interiors, McNeill Shiner is always looking for new ways Why you need to know Roy G. Biv when to mix styles and influences to create spaces that are uplifting, comfortable and very personal. choosing a color scheme for your home

Color is a great place to start in How about nature: Is it a periwinkle and energizing, but messy when it goes exploring your personal design tastes, blue sky that makes you feel at ease, the wrong. Friendship should be uplifting, because our reactions to it tend to be deep tones of greenery, or sunny yellow comfortable and relaxed. instinctual and very personal. Start by blossoms on a tree near your home? If it’s drama you’re after, you’ll want letting go of any preconceived ideas Let’s say that green evokes a response to focus on colors that are opposite to about color. Forget what you may have that you’d like to bring into your home. one another on the wheel, known as read about what’s trendy in fashion or Now, how to use it? Here’s where you complementary. For green, that’s red. Are interiors and really pay attention to need to have some idea of the kind of you thinking Christmas yet? Pure red and what you’re naturally drawn to. Does energy and atmosphere you want to green would easily head in that direction, that red wall make you feel energized create in your space. Marc Chagall tells but when we select variations on the or claustrophobic? When browsing in us that “all colors are the friends of hue, the result is more nuanced and a clothing boutique, do you gravitate their neighbors and the lovers of their sophisticated. In living room #1 (pictured), towards saturated, vivid colors or more opposites.” Each has their benefit, of the color scheme follows from the large subtle tones mixed with gray or black? course - passion at its best is exciting abstract hung above the sofa. A vibrant

84 design Column

All colors are the friends of their neighbors and the lovers of their opposites

Living Room #1 Living Room #2 red was an easy choice with the painting, but can you imagine the room with something else in place of the green? There are warm yellows, bold blues and deep reddish-browns. The light, fresh, spring green chosen by the designer relates to subtle yellow-green tones in the painting, but gives the room a completely different feel. Less obvious usually equates to more interesting. Toning it Up & Down Using tones adjacent to one another on the color wheel creates an analogous color palette. It’s calming for your eyes, and tends to be easier to get right. Friendship doesn’t have to mean boredom, however. The bedroom (pictured) is a great example of this. Warm yellow and beige tones mix with icy greens and touches of turquoise. The color is most vibrant on the drapery, skirted table and trim on pillows, but your eyes don’t have to work hard to connect it all. Another part of what works in this example is the way the color varies. For a more interesting palette, you’ll need to think beyond the pure colors (called hues) that we learn as children. A hue mixed with white creates a tint, gray for a tone Bedroom and black for a shade. Imagine a room done completely in pastels. You may love the colors individually, but together they’ll they won’t connect. The phrase “same and more playful in other elements of the look young and overly saccharine. Using all same, but different” comes to mind here. space, such as pattern and texture. shades can result in a dull space. Together, Monochromatic doesn’t have to mean With endless variations on Roy G. Biv however, the contrast between them will safe or simple either. In living room #2 (red, orange, yellow, green, blue, indigo make both more compelling - lights look (pictured), do you notice the way the and violet), this can only be a starting lighter and darks look darker. The most use of color draws your eyes upwards? point. But let’s review. First, know your interesting and layered spaces will use a Beginning with the black and white floor, own personal and emotional response mix of hues, tints, tones and shades. you naturally work up from the emerald to color, and find a match for that in the You might think that the easiest color sofa to the medium-toned screen, the feeling you want to create in your space. palette to develop in your space would be lighter yellow-green on the walls, and Second, generate calm with analogous monochromatic, but that isn’t necessarily finally the white chandelier. There’s a lot color, or drama with complementary. true. Your color variations need to be more happening in this space to make it Finally, build a more sophisticated chosen carefully in order to get the look work, but you can see that color plays palette by layering variations on your you want. Too similar but not identical, a large part. A monochromatic palette initial choices. And with that, you’re and they may clash; too dissimilar, and actually allowed the designer to be bolder ready to begin.

85 The List

Atexpats is Ho Chi Minh City's first truly Education comprehensive insider's guide for foreign residents

Middle and High School (286 Lanh Binh of Education and Training in Vietnam French Ministry of Education. education Thang, D11) and the Department of Education and 234 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 www.apu.edu.vn Training in Ho Chi Minh City to accept 3519 1521 SCHOOLS [children] both Vietnamese nationals and expat www.creche-ecole-francaises- Australian International School (AIS) nationals. The school’s language of internationales-hochiminh.com The Australian International School is instruction is English. an IB World School with three world No 86, Road 23, D7 class campuses in District 2, HCMC, www.cis.edu.vn offering an international education from kindergarten to senior school with the Canada Vietnam Kindergarten IB Primary Years Programme (PYP), According to the average age of each Cambridge Secondary Programme class as well as the physiology and (including IGCSE) and IB Diploma psychology of each age, CVK has Programme (DP). deployed a curriculum that ensures the Xi Campus (Kindergarten) balance between study and playtime, 190 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Vietnamese and English learning. Thao Dien Campus (Kindergarten & Street 23, Tan Phu, D7 Primary School) 5412 3028 APSC Compound www.cvk.edu.vn European 36 Thao Dien, D2 International ABC International Thu Thiem Campus (Kindergarten, Primary, School (ABCIS) CreativeKids School HCMC Middle & Senior School) CreativeKids preschool program is The European International School Ho Inspected and judged East-West Highway, D2 Chi Minh City (EIS) offers a supportive an outstanding school tailored based on Singapore and New 3742 4040 and challenging academic education by British Government Zealand preschool program. Offers from Early Years to Grade 12 (K-12) www.aisvietnam.com Inspectors (October special curriculum including after school an. EIS promotes inter-cultural 2013), the ABCIS is one of the few English and Mandarin class, for kids understanding and respect, not as an alternative to a sense of national schools worldwide awarded this whose English is their second language, identity, but as an essential part of Department for Education rating. and parent’s English conversation life in the 21st century. Its motto is Progress of students puts the ABCIS course, for adults who need to converse “Educating Global Citizens”. among the top 8% of schools in the Thao Dien Campus world. Providing education for 2-18 in English in daily situations. 730 F-G-K Le Van Mien year olds in a supportive and friendly No 216, Lo H7, My Hung, Phu My Hung Street environment, it delivers a culturally New City Center, D7 Thao Dien, D2 adapted version of the British 5412 1306 www.eishcmc.com National Curriculum supported by www.creativekids.edu.my Cambridge & AQA IGCSE and AS/A levels. Students are prepared for Fosco International School Universities in the UK, USA, Australia, Caters to pre-school children from 18 Korea and Canada. Enquiries and Admissions months to 4 years and elementary Tel: 5431 1833/34/35/36 students from 5 to 12 years. It offers Email: [email protected] enrolment opportunities to both local www.theabcis.com and expat children providing childcare services, comprehensive pre-school British and kindergarten programs and an American International School International internationally aligned elementary Founded in 2006, American School (BIS) school curriculum. International School (ΛIS) is a private, Inspected and 40 Ba Huyen Than Quan, D3 approved by the British Government, Deutsche Schule coeducational, university-preparatory 3930 5930 BIS provides a British style curriculum Ho Chi Minh City www.fis.edu.vn school for students from preschool to for an international student body International grade 12. The language of instruction from pre-school to Year 13. The German School Global Indian International School is English. The school offers school is staffed by British qualified Deutsche Schule (IGS) offers a German curriculum Offers Central Board of Secondary standard American curriculum with a and trained teachers with recent UK experience. Fully accredited by the from Early Years to Grade 12 which Education (CBSE), and the Global complement of performing arts, visual is approved and supported by the Council of International Schools and a Montessori Plus Program. The school’s arts, music and sport programs. German government. IGS is staffed member of FOBISIA, BIS is the largest Nine Gems model is a proprietary Elementary School (102C Nguyen Van by native German, Vietnamese and international school in Vietnam. English speakers who have many tool to achieve a balance between Cu, D1) An Phu Primary Campus years of teaching experience. We academics and experience, mental and Middle School (35 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh 225 Nguyen Van Huong Street, D2 offer a link between Vietnamese physical development, fine arts and Thanh) 3744 4551 and German culture, an international [email protected] program with German standards and performing arts, language skills and High School (781/C1-C2 Le Hong Phong, the immersion of German culture into An Phu Secondary Campus creativity, personality development, everyday life. D10) ethics and entrepreneurship. 246 Nguyen Van Huong Street, D2 12, Vo Truong Toan, 3744 2335 An Phu 172 Nguyen Van Thu, D1 APU International School [email protected] 08 37 44 63 44 www.globalindianschool.org Operating since 2004, APU Tu Xuong Primary Campus [email protected] International School is a private 43-45 Tu Xuong Street, D3 www.igs-hcmc.de Horizon International Bilingual School ats 3932 0210 coeducational international school Offers curriculum for kindergarten, [email protected] te xp enrolling students from Kindergarten A www.bisvietnam.com primary, secondary and high school. to Grade 12. Instruction is conducted Ecole Antonia Classes are taught in English and in English, but there is an English A kindergarten and primary school Vietnamese. Offers scholarships for Language Development (ELD) program Canadian International School with pre-school classes designed in children who achieve excellence in available to students who require it. It Now in its fifth year of operation accordance with the guidelines of the school. is currently a member of the College with a student population of 700 French government and primary classes 6 - 6A - 8, Street 44, D2 Board, and is an official SAT testing site. students in grades K-12, CIS- VN has taught following the French model 5402 2482

Elementary (501 Lac Long Quan, D11) received approval from the Ministry based on the official guidelines of the www.hibs.vn ©2014 Co pyri g ht L istin g s

86 Little Angels International Preschool Schools of North America 214 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 www.stamfordgrammar.com Offers nursery and kindergarten classes Offers a dual curriculum - instructing and provides full-time or part-time students in a Vietnamese program Vietnam Australia International childcare and kindergarten services for directed by the Vietnam Ministry of School (VAS) children 4 months through 5 years. Education and Training (MOET) in tandem with an American program Established in 2004 and licensed by 159/12 Hoang Van Thu, Phu Nhuan aligned with the State of California. the Vietnamese government, VAS is 3844 3719 Students graduate after accumulating offering educational services to some www.little-angels.edu.vn 248 credits which is equivalent to high 4,500 students from K through 12 at 6 Montessori International School of school graduates in the US. campuses in Ho Chi Minh City. Street 5A, Trung Son Residential Quarter, www.vas.edu.vn Vietnam Binh Chanh The school seeks to enable all its 402 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Vstar School pupils to achieve their fullest potential www.sna.edu.vn Vstar School provides education from The International by providing them with a nurturing Grades 1-12 in a spacious 30,000m2 School Ho Chi Minh City and stimulating environment, and by Saigon South International School (ISHCMC) environment including a sports field and being sensitive and responsive to Founded in 1997, Saigon South The most established swimming pool. their individual needs. Their curriculum International School seeks to school in Ho Chi Minh accommodate an increasing need Him Lam Residential Complex, Nguyen is designed based on Montessori City is celebrating 20 for American education for both local Huu Tho, D7 methodology and practice, and is years of success in 2013. ISHCMC residents and expatriate families. is the only school in HCMC with enhanced with a variety of programs. SSIS enrolls over 850 students in full accreditation to teach all three 42/1 Ngo Quang Huy, D2 Early Childhood – Grade 12 from over IB programs to students from 2 to 3744 2639 thirty-three countries in a spacious six- 18. ISHCMC is fully accredited by www.montessori.edu.vn hectare, well-equipped campus. both the Council of International 78 Nguyen Duc Canh, D7 Schools (CIS) and the New England Noah's Club www.ssis.edu.vn Association of School and Colleges Providing high quality care & education (NEASC), two of the most prestigious for kids aged 1-6 in District 2 . Various international accreditation creative & fun programs, beautiful organisations. ISHCMC has 975 outdoor space with a warm family students from over 50 different feeling and more. The American nationalities enjoying No3, Duong so 4, Nguyen U Di, D2 School recently upgraded 3744 4709 of Vietnam The American facilities. [email protected] 28 Vo Truong Toan, D2 School of Vietnam (TAS) is a young school www.ishcmc.com that has been granted candidacy by the Western Association of Schools Saigon Star and Colleges (WASC), representing International School Saigon Pearl 20 nationalities. TAS provides an International American-based curriculum with ISSP is an elementary school for School rigorous performance standards children 2 to 11 years of age. Offers Saigon Star is a student focused and a variety of academic offerings an academically rigorous American international primary school including Advanced Placement offering high quality first class curriculum. The school has several courses, university credit courses provision. Specializing in the British through our partnership with smartboards, projectors and an National Curriculum, all of the class Missouri State University, and an independent IT suite that allows teachers hold international teaching Intensive ESL Program for English students the opportunity to interact with qualification. In the early years Language Learners. program, a Montessori specialist works technology to enhance learning. Renaissance 177A, 172-180 Nguyen Van Huong st., closely with the main class teachers Thao Dien ward, D2, HCMC 92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh International to ensure a high rate of progress. The www.theamericanschool.edu.vn 082227788 School Saigon school also provides specialists for 08 3519 2223 , 08 3519 2224 www.issp.edu.vn Renaissance is an International children requiring extra [email protected] British school providing an inclusive support with ESL. Residential Area No.5, Kids Club Saigon curriculum based upon the British Thanh My Loi Ward, D2 Early childhood centers in Phu My curriculum complemented by the 3742 STAR / 3742 7827 SCHOOLS [ADULT] Hung offering creative play-based International Primary Curriculum www.saigonstarschool.edu.vn programs for children ages 2 to 5. and International Baccalaureate. Kent International College Known for unique facilities, experienced The school has made a conscious The first Australian vocational college staff, high-quality learning resources, decision to limit numbers and keep Singapore International School at in Vietnam to receive approval from the and small class sizes class sizes small to ensure each Saigon South Ministry of Education and Training to 79/7 Pham Thai Buong, D7 student is offered an education Commenced operations in August teach Australian Advanced Diplomas 27/3 Ha Huy Tap, D7 tailored to meet his or her individual 2008, The Singapore International in business, marketing and information learning needs. It is a family school 5412 5944 School at Saigon South (SIS @ SS) is technology in Vietnam. providing a stimulating and secure www.kidsclubsaigon.com a purpose-built international school 148-150 Nguyen Dinh Chinh, Phu Nhuan learning environment with first-class campus that has a capacity of 625 219 - 221 Xo Viet Nghe Tinh, Binh Thanh facilities including a 350-seat theatre, Kinderworld International students. It operates classes from www.kent.edu.vn Kindergarten swimming pool, mini-pool, play-areas, kindergarten to senior high school. gymnasium, IT labs, music and drama No 29, Road 3, Trung Son Residential Area, KinderWorld International Kindergarten PSB International College rooms, science labs and Binh Chanh PSB College is an Internationally- has been in operation since November an all-weather pitch. www.saigonsouth.sis.edu.vn Recognized Singaporean Institution 2006 and offers both international and 74 Nguyen Thi Thap, D7 specializing in business programs local kindergarten services for children 3773 3171 ext 120/121/122 Smartkids aged 1.5 to 5.5 years old. www.renaissance.edu.vn Focuses on the holistic development ranging from Business Administration The Manor Building, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, of the child and combines Montessori, & Marketing, Accounting & Finance, to Binh Thanh Steiner and Reggio Emilia philosophies Hospitality & Management. 3514 3036 into its program. Also offers childcare 144-146-148 Le Lai, D1 [email protected] Saigon Mandarin English for young children until 6 years old. www.psbcollege.edu.vn Kindergarten 1172 Thao Dien Compound, D2 L’atelier For children aged 5 months to 6 years 3744 6076 RMIT ats Classes include spelling and grammar old. The learning environment is highly www.smartkidsinfo.com RMIT University Vietnam is an Asian

te xp tuition after school, monitoring for the interactive and play-based, where every campus of Melbourne-based University A Stamford Grammar - SLC French education program, preparing child is encouraged to reach out and Kindergarten RMIT, Australia’s biggest tertiary for official tests (DEFL, DAFL, TFL, IB), relate to people around him or her, education. Offers programs from Provides comprehensive and holistic going through learning stages: playing and Vietnamese lessons, including education for infants from 4 months business and management to design extra-curricular activities during the and exploring, active learning and to kindergarten students of 6 years and micro engineering, and boasts a holidays. creating and thinking critically. old. Each class is conducted by one wide range of extra-curricular activities. 33/19 Quoc Huong, D2 133 Nguyen Trai, D5 qualified native English teacher and two 702 Nguyen Van Linh, D7 3744 6844 38 38 11 23 qualified local teachers. 21 Pham Ngoc Thach, D3

©2014 Co pyri g ht L istin g s www.latelier-anphu.com www.smek.edu.vn 4bis Phung Khac Khoan, D1 www.rmit.edu.vn

87 The List

Atexpats is Ho Chi Minh City's first truly Health & Beauty comprehensive insider's guide for foreign residents

Body By Jovie with the very latest in fitness disease. Cosmetic procedures such as ladieswear Body By Jovie is a boutique personal technology. It has a fully-equipped eyelid surgery and Botox injections are training center and yoga studio, catering sauna and steam room and a large also available. Anupa Eco Boutique Oi’s Pick to individuals demanding diversity, outdoor pool with jacuzzi. 5th floor Crescent Plaza, 105 Ton Dat The boutique has been converted into challenge and results. It specializes in one Ruby Tower, 92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Tien, D7 an eco-boutique which houses the on one session and also offer a full range Thanh 08 5413 6758 www.americaneyecentervn.com complete Anupa leather collections of classes such as yoga, TRX suspension Star Fitness Bitexco and semi precious jewelry as well as class, belly dancing, Zumba and outdoor Animal Rescue & Care up-and-coming eco designers both boot camp. Located in The Manor Tower, this gym locally and internationally such as ready is not only a fitness center it includes Abandoned and wild cats and dogs can Riverside Residence, Nguyen Luong be adopted or fostered from their online to wear mens linen shirts, ladies cotton other specialized classes such as yoga, Bang, D7 database. ARC also organizes several dresses, chicken leg watch straps, belly dancing, kick boxing, zumba, body [email protected] animal welfare education and low-cost bamboo glasses and scarves with toning, and so on. 7am - 9pm (Weekdays) and spaying campaigns. pendants. 7:30am - 7pm (Saturdays) Level 1, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh 3514 0255 31-44 Thao Dien, D2 9 Dong Du, D1 www.arcpets.com www.anupa.net / facebook: anupaluxury California WOW Spa InterContinental & Healthclub The first and largest international An Phu International Clinic Gaya fitness company to open in Vietnam. Guests will have access to a 20-meter outdoor lap pool complete with a An international standard clinic A high-end shop that sells cocktail and Provides world class fitness services with a full range of specialist and sundeck, a 160-square meter spacious party dresses by French-Cambodian and products in a state-of-the art 5-star modern medical equipment with a fitness centre with the latest designer Romyda Keth. Gaya has fitness and entertainment facility. dedicated team of professors, doctors, cardio and resistance equipment, plus a specializes in home interior products. 126 Hong Bang, D5 experienced nurses. personal program of fitness classes. 1 Nguyen Van Trang, D1 28-30-32 Le Lai, D1 251A Luong Dinh Cua, D2 3rd Floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon 5 Nguyen Tat Thanh, D4 6660 6602 Corner of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, D1 Kelly Bui www.dakhoaanphu.com [email protected] Launched in April 2010, the shop sells Christina Eberlin Yoga Teacher 8am – 9:30pm the most recent collections by the Christina graduated from Virajati 300hr Family Medical Practice brand. The collections shown on the yoga teacher training in Thailand. She The Health Club With a nationwide operational advantage, is offering private yoga classes and they provide international standard website are the same as those in-store. The Landmark Health Club is located on group classes. For more information medical services in a safe, professional B1-24, Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh the 15th and 16th floors of The Landmark you can reach her at and welcoming environment. Ton, D1 serviced apartments, and offers a fully [email protected] 95 Thao Dien, D2 equipped gym, rooftop swimming pool, Valenciani Oi’s Pick or 093 849 2461 3744 2000 and a squash court. It also features www.vietnammedicalpractice.com Highly respected Vietnamese designer Cyril And You male and female changing facilities and [email protected] whose collections are featured in ELLE . French physical instructor Cyril 8am-6pm Monday-Friday, 8am-2pm Vietnam and Vogue Vietnam. 5B Ton Duc Thang, D1 specializes in sports conditioning, Saturday 23 Ly Tu Truong, D1 [email protected] 3821 2788 resistance training and senior training Australian Clinic & Pathology 090 785 5788 along with designing a personal fitness The Crescent Wellness Club Diagnostics program to fit your needs. Thao Dien, Overlooking The Crescent complex’s The Australian Clinic, Pathology & D2; 094 777 1326 lagoon, this multi-purpose and Diagnostics (ACPD) is comprised of a menswear www.cyril-and-you.com organically designed fitness and medical outpatient clinic and associated Get Fit Gym wellness centre offers an array of pathology laboratory. The clinic hosts Anna Vo Fashion Boutique modern facilities including a state-of- highly trained and experienced medical A popular designer currently in Saigon, Located on the 3rd floor in the H3 the-art gym, group fitness classes, yoga specialists. Anna Vo produces seasonal collections Building, this international-standard, sessions, a squash court, swimming 273 - 275 Ly Thai To, D10 inspired by her time in Europe and gym offers a steam bath and sauna, pool, steam bath and nutrition bar. yoga, kickboxing, rumba, salsa, Vietnam as well as aiming to be both 3rd Floor, Crescent Plaza, Columbia Asia Saigon Clinic merengue, cumbia and reggaeton beautiful and functional. The boutique 105 Ton Dat Tien, D7 Beautiful international clinic a short classes. also carries pieces from her mother distance from the cathedral, with 384 Hoang Dieu, D4 Thuy Nga’s collections as well as high X-Rock Climbing exemplary standards of healthcare for quality imported accessories. Each K1 Fitness & Fight Factory With two locations in the city, this wall walk-in patients. collection includes both menswear and in An Phu stands at 26 meters. The 8 Alexandre De Rhodes, D1 A well-known brand name founded by womenswear. center offers nine levels from beginners a group of professional kickboxers and Centre Medical International 23 Dong Khoi, D1 to hardcore. now present in France and Southeast 503A Nguyen Duy Trinh, D2 Centre Medical International was created Bonjour Asia, including Montpellier and Phnom www.xrockclimbing.com in 1992 by Pr Alain Carpentier and Dr Penh as well as here in Saigon. Duong Quang Trung, director of the A fashion boutique at the Vo Van Tan/ 14 Duong 38, Nguyen Thi Thap, D7 Yoga Club health service of HCMC. In the heart Cao Thang T-intersection providing an of the city, just near the Notre-Dame Yogo fitness center for both men and exhaustive range of one-off fashion Cathedral, French and Vietnamese Nicky's Zumba® Fitness Studio women pieces and accessories with both a doctors provide high quality medical They offer Zumba®Fitness, Yoga, Cross 18 Street Number 2, D2 modern and vintage feel. Prices are Fit, Pilates Personal Fitness, Nurtition service in 12 specialties: General affordable for both men and women Advice and Hip hop kids, Aerobic kids, and tropical medicine, Cardiology, and come in a range of sizes to suit ZumbAtomic®. clinics Gynecology, Traditional oriental medicine, most customers. Available at: Panorama-Fitness (206 Tran Ophthalmology, Speech and language 446 Vo Van Tan, D3 Van Tra, D7), Fit & Fun Club (Sky Garden 2, therapy, Osteopathic, medicine, Pediatrics, American Chiropractic Clinic Psychiatry, Psychology, Psychomotor D7), Cyril&you (49a Xa Lo Ha Noi, D2), and American Chiropractic Clinic is a Sommerset (8 Nguyen Binh Khiem, D1). Therapy, and Dietetics. All our profits are gyms chiropractic, physiotherapy, and foot dedicated to the Heart Institute which 093 406 0735 or 6680 7226 care clinic in the Heart of Saigon. We helps deprived Vietnamese children to [email protected] Ais Sports Complex are staffed by American and French- pay their cardiac surgery. www.zumba-saigon.com trained Chiropractic Physicians and Open to the public, the center has a 1 Han Thuyen, D1 Vietnamese Physical Therapists. 25m swimming pool, basketball court Nutrifort Fitness 3827 2366 161-161A Hai Ba Trung, D3 www.cmi-vietnam.com and an astroturf play area. Inquire about Aiming to be the voice of health and www.acc.vn ats special packages. fitness in Vietnam, Nutrifort provides David Shepherd Chiropractic Clinic APSC Compound, 36 Thao Dien, D2 clientele with proper tools and teaching te xp American Eye Center DSCC provides Chiropractic care A www.aissportscentre.com methods to keep the mind and body Provides eye care services to adults for patients using state of the art fit and healthy. Clients also learn about and children by an American Board physiotherapy equipment imported Amaryska Kamionko nutrition to nourish and maintain their certified ophthalmologist with 17 years from USA. DSCC is managed and Private fitness trainer, assisting in full health. of experience. The American standard operated by American doctors who use body workouts, toning & strength 2B1 Chu Manh Trinh, D1 facility is equipped with state of the art modern and advanced technologies training for females. Sessions often at equipments for the early detection and techniques to ensure safe, gentle, and clients’ homes or at their designated Saigon River Club treatment of important eye conditions effective treatment. gyms. Located in Ruby Tower at the Saigon such as Lasik, Cataract surgeries to 41 Noi Khu, Hung Gia 3, D7 personalfitnessathome.blogspot.com Pearl, Saigon River Club is equipped Presbyopia, Glaucoma and Diabetic eye www.saigonchiropractic.com ©2014 Co pyri g ht L istin g s

88 Diag Center International dental Naomi Dental Clinic hospital offering a wide range of Situated in Ho Chi Minh City, Diag A full service dental clinic under the medical and surgical services under one Center International is a diagnostic direction of Japanese dentist Dr. roof, equipped to care for patients from testing center, which consists of a team Nakashima Mikio. consultation and diagnosis through to of thirty Vietnamese staff, and operates R4-45 Hung Phuoc 4, D7 the completion of treatment. under French medical biologists and 5410 3937 6 Nguyen Luong Bang, D7 assisted by a group of Vietnamese medical technicians trained in France. Saigon Smile Saigon International Maternity 146 An Binh, D5 With a group of experienced doctors Hospital J.S.C. and professional staff trained to do A private-owned hospital specialising Family Medical Practice teeth cleaning, dental work and other in maternity, this was the first hospital With a nationwide operational advantage, teeth enhancing procedures. to meet the Hotel-Hospital international they provide international standard Dr. Hung & Associates Dental Center 96 Tran Nao, D2 standard in HCMC since the year 2000. medical services in a safe, professional A centrally located 6674 4255 63 Bui Thi Xuan, D1 and welcoming environment. dental center that uses 8am to 8pm the latest modern 95 Thao Dien, D2 Traditional Medicine Hospital equipment with a team www.vietnammedicalpractice.com Saint Paul This hospital is a major medical centre of skilled specialists. practising the essence of that millennia- [email protected] Services include cosmetic, implant, Saint Paul has facilities all over Ho Chi 8am-6pm Monday-Friday, 8am-2pm Minh City, and with the slogan “slight, old exploration into the rhythms of the braces, prosthodontics, pedodontics human body and its connection to the Saturday and more. Expect high quality service exact, and painless,” the doctors at natural world which firmly belongs to at a reasonable price. Saint Paul aim to please even the most Hanh Phuc International Women & Building 244A Cong Quynh, D1 fastidious patients. this region. Children’s Hospital 08 3925 7526 50 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 179 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 Hanh Phuc International Hospital aims 08 3925 7527 3835 6159 to be the leading private healthcare [email protected] Tu Du Hospital provider for women and children in www.drhung01.com Smile Dental Center Tu Du is a large state hospital Vietnam. Designed and managed up to Quality dental care with whitening, specializing in maternity, women, and Singaporean standards, the 260-bed cleaning, and orthodontic services. children’s diseases, family planning, and Hanh Phuc Hospital aims to provide Japanese equipment and techniques. many other areas. Highly experienced a comprehensive range of quality 2000 Dental Clinic Trung Tam Implant 173 Ton Dat Tien, D7 doctors and staff provide affordable healthcare services to women and Established in 1999, 2000 Dental 5413 6635 care. children with a personalized touch and Clinic now has 65 dentists serving 284 Cong Quynh, D1 in a warm and friendly atmosphere. 3 locations offering the full range of Starlight Dental Clinic 2nd floor Saigon Trade Centre, dental care, including surgery, implants Award-winning quality care and Vu Anh International Hospital - 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 and extractions. personal service in clean premises, Obstetrics 125 Le Thi Rieng, D1 offering general dentistry, whitening Luxurious hospital facility offering Institute of Traditional Medicine and cosmetic surgery, implants, modern care in a comfortable setting. Established in 1975, the Institute Dang Luu Dental Centre orthodontics, pediatric, and preventive The hotel also provides 12 VIP rooms of Traditional Medicine is a holistic Dang Luu Dental Centre offers the dentistry. for patients seeking 5 star medical research and teaching hospital. Patients full range of dental services, including 2 Bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, D3 services featuring garden access and are treated using traditional medicines, implants, crown and bridges and teeth 3822 6222 designer furniture. some of which are produced by the whitening. Orthodontic services are also 15-16 Phan Van Tri, Go Vap institute itself. Some doctors speak provided. Some of the dentists have Westcoast International Dental Clinic English and/or French, and acupuncture been foreign-trained. Large, international team of dentists lessons are on offer. 34 Phan Dang Luu, Binh Thanh and support staff from Canada, nails 273-275 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Australia, Japan, France, Italy, Thailand, Digital Dental Clinic and Vietnam. The clinic regularly hosts Classic Nails Located near Ben Thanh Market, Classic International SOS Medical Care Digital Dental Care draws on well- visiting dentists from many other Nails is a professional salon with staff who Located in the city center, the clinic known Korean consistency in service countries. are trained and experienced in designing is open 24 hours a day, 365 days a standards and precision equipment to 27 Nguyen Trung Truc, D1 complicated pattern. The salon only uses year providing routine and emergency offer a truly world-class service in the 3825 7485 healthcare services as well as on-site materials from reputable companies and Phu My Hung area. laboratory and radiology services. always update with the latest colors. They R4-35 Ton Dat Tien, D7 Languages spoken include Japanese, hospitals also have sofas with a massage function Korean and French, among others. Elite Dental Group and adjustable posture for the customer’s 167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 Cao Thang Eye Hospital comfortable and relaxation. 3829 8551 Elite Dental is an international and The CT International Eye Hospital is one 4 Phan Boi Chau, D1 well-equipped clinic that provides of the few dedicated, comprehensive eye 3825 7047 Saigon Acupuncture a wide range of dental services institutes in the country. Internationally 9am - 8pm Practitioner Christopher Booth, M.S., including general dentistry, cosmetic recognized staff diagnose and treat the L.Ac., is now accepting new patients. dentistry, Implant, pediatric dentistry entire spectrum of conditions of the eye, Fame Nails Chris treats the following conditions and orthodontics. Luxury design and including complex problems such as A place for your nail care near Ben with acupuncture: Chronic and their dental experts will bring you an diabetic retinopathy, retinal detachments, Thanh Market. Besides classic manicure Acute Pain, Neurological Disorders, extremely comfortable experience. macular degeneration, glaucoma, and and pedicure, it also offers deluxe spa Gynecological Disorders, Emotional & 57A Tran Quoc Thao, D3 cataracts. manicure and pedicure, nail art and Psychological Disorders, among others. 135B Tran Binh Trong, D5 enhancement, and services including 161 Hai Ba Trung, D3 European Dental Clinic waxing, facial, eyebrow shaping and eye [email protected] Offering state of the art technology, Cho Ray Hospital lashes extension. www.facebook.com/saigonacupuncture competitive pricing, and supreme Cho Ray Hospital is the largest 18 Pham Hong Thai, D1 quality, this dentistry is truly dedicated healthcare service in Vietnam, providing www.famenails.com Stamford Skin Centre to their patients. full priority service for expatriates, with The Stamford Skin Centre has grown 17-17A Le Van Mien, D2 a staff including 696 doctors and 1350 Kelly Pang to include qualified specialists who www.europeandentalclinic-asia.com nurses. Nail salon established in 2004 as a treat general diseases of the skin such 201B Nguyen Chi Thanh, D5 small nail salon in Phu Nhuan, Kelly as acne, eczema and other forms of German International Dentistry Pang has gradually become known as dermatitis, rosacea, psoriasis, and skin German International Dentistry offers Columbia Asia International Hospital a training center and professional nail cancers. excellent consultation services from - Gia Dinh care facility throughout Vietnam. 99 Suong Nguyet Anh, D1 experienced, international dentists so Skilled and experienced doctors 214C Nguyen Trai, D1 08 3925 1990 or 0908 453 338 offer exceptional medical care at that you can make informed decisions OPI Nail Spa Nguyen Hue www.stamfordskin.com about your dental care. affordable prices with the latest in medical technology. Patients benefit Providing a full range of official products 1489 Nguyen Van Linh, D7 Victoria Health Care International from advanced medical diagnostics, and services of the OPI brand. Clinic Grand Dentistry treatment and personal care. 103 Nguyen Hue, D1 Victoria Healthcare offers the highest 1 No Trang Long, Binh Thanh Grand Dentistry is an upscale dental standard of healthcare, based on American and European practices, and office located in the ground floor of DialAsie International Hospital spas offering compassionate and efficient Sunwah tower on Nguyen Hue street. A specialist centre in kidney treatment It is noted for being very tourist/expat

ats service with the greatest respect for the for the expat community, DialAsie is a An Nam Spa patient. friendly. This dentistry features English fairly well-reputed international hospital Housed in a beautiful nine-story te xp speaking staff and expatriate dentists.

A 79 Dien Bien Phu, D1 of nephrology & dialysis, offering building with different areas for Ground Floor Sun Wah Tower, medical consultancy in renal diseases, men and women, guests can enjoy Vietnam Family Medical Practice 115 Nguyen Hue, D1 haemodialysis, and paraclinical a panoramic view of Saigon while International clinic located in the Manor examinations. calming their senses in a relaxing complex, within easy reach of high- Minh Khai Dental Clinic 253 Dien Bien Phu, D3 sanctuary. rollers living around the Saigon Pearl French/American/Swiss managed 26-28 Dong Du, D1 area. The sister clinic is located beneath clinic with well-maintained international- FV Hospital Diamond Plaza. standard equipment. FV Hospital is a Vietnam’s only Dermal Essentials Ground Floor, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh 199 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Nguyen Cu internationally accredited healthcare Dermalogica, a Los Angeles-based

©2014 Co pyri g ht L istin g s Thanh Trinh, D1 facility. A wholly foreign-owned general company, is a revolutionary skin

89 treatment system. Call Dermalogica’s Korean Style Sauna Oasis Salon & Spa therapists for a complimentary Face Sauna and massage that serves mostly The original Oasis spa & beauty salon, home & furnishings Mapping consultation. Japanese and Korean men - some of this venue offers a full range of services 108 Pasteur, D1 the more discerning expat clients. For a at competitive prices. Full hair care, AA Deco Company Eden Spa delicate touch. facial, massage, nail spa, beauty care & AA Interiors provides high-quality 15 Thai Van Lung, D1 waxing services. fabrication and fit-out services for Extremely central, Eden is located hotels, residences, spas, and so on in a quiet niche off Nguyen Hue in 1st & 2nd Floor, 45 Nguyen Hue, D1 the commercial center. Owing to its L’Apothiquaire - Saigon South throughout the city. Also sells many expertise in skincare and first-class This Japanese/French style spa is an Saigon Spa well-known furniture brands. relaxing atmosphere, Eden has the exclusive distributor of organic French Recommended inexpensive spa 219 Nguyen Van Thu, D1 gumption to claim a number-one spot skin care products, and other exclusive treatments with a full spa menu. in the discerning Japanese market. products from around the world. 1st Floor, 47 Dong Khoi, D1 AkzoNobel Decorative Center 19-25 Nguyen Hue, D1 1st floor, 103 Ton Dat Tien, Tan Phu, D7 Dulux Paints specialist with attractive 3821 3815 5413 6638 Sense Spa central-city showroom/store. 097 810 6868 Sense Spa is a massage, skin, and body 91-93 Nguyen Hue, D1 Flamingo Spa La Cochinchine Spa care haven with a plethora of high-end 3915 3491 Flamingo Spa is an authentic Thai spa imported creams, lotions, and serums. where all ingredients used are imported Located in the Rex Hotel, this luxury 54 Dong Du, D1 Authentique from Thailand. Guests arrive in a clean spa and fitness centre combined An interior decorating shop featuring and friendly atmosphere for an optimal with a swimming pool and bar has a Spa InterContinental relaxing experience. Men, women and Vietnamese traditional styles with a particular style that is a combination of Spa InterContinental is a small showroom in the busiest area of couples are welcome, and they offer a contemporary spa that has two Vietnamese, French, Cham, Hindu, and the city, wide range of massages along with a Asian cultures. Luxury spa and gym double and five single treatment 71/1 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 sauna, jacuzzi facilities & VIP rooms. located at the Rex hotel. rooms, each with a private bathroom, 13B Le Thanh Ton, D1 3823 8811 6F, Rex Hotel, 141 Nguyen Hue, D1 a foot reflexology area, and luxurious 3822 1074 3825 1812 changing and shower rooms. 091 243 9601 Canada Home Deco Company Combining the fresh, local traditional [email protected] Established by an expat Canadian Open 10:30 am to close 11:30pm La Maison de L’Apothiquaire herbs and plants, an ambient lighting, This unique spa is situated in an soft scents and soothing sounds with couple in 2003, Canada Home Deco artfully-designed villa and offers the best of international brands, Spa specializes in distributing high-quality Glow blankets, pillows, bedspreads, and A boutique day spa located in the heart guests many therapeutic body and InterContinental offers guests the cushions. of the city. In this relaxing, peaceful skin treatments. The luxurious villa professional spa expertise and a truly atmosphere, guests can enjoy a full also provides a yoga studio, enclosed sensory experience. 158 Hai Ba Trung, D1 range of massage/treatment options. garden, and many exclusive skin care 3rd Floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon Kim Do Hotel, 129A Nguyen Hue, D1 products. Corner Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, D1 Catherine Denoual 64A Truong Dinh, D3 3520 9999 Supplies blankets, pillows, mattresses, Huong Sen Spa 100 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 [email protected] tablecloths, cushions, and other luxury Located in a charming old French villa, 1st floor, 103 Ton Dat Tien, Tan Phu, D7 8am – 9:30pm linens to reputable hotels, spas, resorts, Huong Sen Spa is a natural green oasis and individual consumers. with skin, face, and body treatment The Body Shop 15C Thi Sach, D1 services. A global manufacturer and retailer of 21S Nguyen Van Troi, Ward 12, Phu Nhuan naturally-inspired, ethically-produced Gomo Golden Lotus Foot Massage Club beauty and cosmetics products. The Typical of the large furniture Sauna Body Shop offers many kinds of warehouses in North America and skincare products, makeup accessories, Europe, Gomo sells contemporary items Fully equipped massage establishment hair & body care products, perfume, and with pool, steam room, and hydraulic for your home and office. bath milk. massage located in trendy Thai Van 7/30B, Road 13, Binh Hoa 87 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Lung street. Various salt scrubs, and Thuan An Town, Binh Duong high end beauty products imported (0650) 376 5115 direct from Korea are available. The Prime – Spa For Men www.gomo.com.vn American skin treatments for men 15 Thai Van Lung, D1 Maison Mikio Boutique Salon 3822 1515 from top brands such as Dermalogica Lam Bui Natural Home Goods District 7’s Premium Boutique Salon. and Lab Series. Equipped with Founded in 2004 by a team of Two floors providing full beauty imported machines from Europe. Indochine Spa intrepid entrepreneurs, Lam Bui Nestled in the heart of Saigon, Indochine services nestled in a quiet residential The spa has five therapy services, area in Phu My Hung’s Garden Plaza Natural Home Goods is a large, spa will bring you back to an ancient time including basic skin care, professional 2 Complex. Equipped with a café, well-stocked home goods store with with peaceful melodies and aromatic skin care, intensive therapy, eye nail bar, 2 VIP rooms, and a spacious scents. With our skillful therapists, Natural therapy, body therapy – and a Prime specialty old-style furnishings and massage room - this boutique salon is decor items. products with French formulation and like no other in Ho Chi Minh City. special service package. high class cleanness environment, 192 Le Lai, D1 Unit 16-17, 2nd Floor, Saigon Centre, 65 Garden Plaza 2 Complex Le Loi, D1 Indochine spa provides your senses with 8 Tôn Dât Tiên, Quân 7 natural energy. Indulge yourself for a 5412 4773 Tri Siam 3914 3553 unique and amazing experience. Well-respected salon on the edge of 69 Thu Khoa Huan st., D. 1, HCM town, offering manicures & styling. Mosaique Decoration 3827 7188 MiMi Clinic & Spa 76C Hai Ba Trung, D1 Mosaique Decoration takes all the [email protected] Prestige Spa for celebrities holding unique beauty and craftsmanship of www.indochine-spa.com.vn frequent beauty events – and therefore Xuan Spa Vietnam and adapts it to contemporary Open: 10:00-22:00 one of the best-known local brands in One of the most luxurious spas in Ho home décor. Mosaique offers unique Jasmine Spa medical aesthetics for over 10 years in Chi Minh City, Xuan is located inside lighting design, decorative embroidery, the five-star Park Hyatt hotel. Services Experienced staff utilize exotic HCMC. silk quilts, and other home accessories. skincare products to comfort guests 32 Dong Khoi, D1 include packages such as Urban Retreat Ground Floor, Saigon Centre, in this cozy urban sanctuary, which 090 387 6666 Package, Apricot blossom – Mai, 65 Le Loi, D1 has has a large, loyal following Bamboo, and more. that swears by its friendly and Miu Miu 2 Lam Son Square, D1 Premium Housewares professional service. Spa with an elegant and charming Providing high quality kitchenware and 45 Ton That Thiep, D1 décor, offering facials, body Yuri accessories, Premium Housewares massages, and manicures. Pervaded A full-range Korean beauty salon in the presents its products in more than 70 by exotic oils and aromas, the staff Lotte complex, with a chief focus on countries worldwide. provide counsel on unique skin-care beautiful hair styling. 77 Pasteur, D1 products from Thailand and around 3rd floor, Lotte Mart, 469 Nguyen Huu the world in English, Vietnamese, Tho, D7 Red Door Décor 3775 2990; 093 481 8085 and Japanese. A well-known furniture store in Ho Chi 4 Chu Manh Trinh, D1 Yves Rocher Botanical Beauty Spa Minh City offering products such as 6659 3609 interior/exterior decorations, artwork, A famous international botanical handicrafts, glass ceramics, garments, Moc Huong Spa cosmetic brand with a full range of Moc Huong Spa products, The Botanical Beauty Spa and textile materials. ats Spa & Hair Salon is supported Center combines the expertise of its 31A Le Thanh Ton, D1

by top-ranking te xp

Body massage beauticians with the efficacy of Yves A Foot massage professional Rocher treatments. Vscential Hair cut women and men physiotherapists 16-18 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Vscential sells aromatic French lavender 32 Dong Du, Ben Nghe Ward, D1 who combine Eastern with Western bouquets, fresh flowers, silk flowers, and (Spa & Hair Salon) techniques resulting a full body Zest Massage handmade flowers. With 45 different 8A/4D1 Thai Van Lung, wellness. Reasonably priced with a types of essential oils available, there’s a wide range of services that include Famous for its fish pedicures, Zest, Ben Nghe Ward, D1 (Spa) located in the outer western region scent for everyone. 0902 983 089 manicure, pedicure, facial, both body of District One, serves up some fairly Vscential [email protected] and for your complete well being. 238B Pasteur, D3 www.spakyotohcmc.com.vn 9C Ton Duc Thang, D1 dynamic Thai massage. 3911 7118 60 Bui Thi Xuan, D1 www.vscential.com ©2014 Co pyri g ht L istin g s

90 Business & Tech

IMAGE BY JIMMY DAU

91 feature

WeSave founders Lance and Petr Let’s Make a Deal A new bilingual discount website is reinventing the Groupon business model Text By NPD Khanh images by ngoc tran

In Vietnam’s thriving e-commerce has identified a business model which we sell are exclusive promotions and our market, it seems unfair for the expat sets it apart - and, being run by expats - is model reflects this,” explains Petr Jumar, community, which stands at more than committed to enabling foreigners to enjoy WeSave’s co-founder. “The voucher code is 700,000 in Saigon, to have to sit on the the benefits along with locals. not exchangeable for products or services. It sidelines and watch without participating. “There is never a perfect time to enter an is pure promotion. The buyer then pays the In August that will change as a new industry,” shares Lance F. Huff, co-founder money directly to the service provider when player WeSave (www.wesave.vn), a bilingual of WeSave. “To be competitive in any he or she uses the services.” Vietnamese-English daily deal site, enters business field you have to offer something Vouchers on their website are sold for the field. different and better to the market and let VND10,000 to VND60,000 depending on the In its 2013 annual statement, the Vietnam the customers decide which they prefer.” value of the deal being offered. The deal code E-Commerce and Information Technology WeSave boasts a new and different model is delivered instantaneously via SMS and Agency reported 38 daily deal websites from existing Vietnamese daily deal sites and entitles its owner to an exclusive promotion operating in Vietnam, a total of 6.3 million aims to set itself apart by offering bilingual at the service supplier. voucher transactions worth VND774 billion options, easier methods of payment, digital According to Petr, this model has two in revenue, and yearly double digit growth. delivery voucher codes, and an overall better game-changing benefits. First, it eliminates Without a doubt, Vietnamese-language daily consumer experience. the time, labor and logistical difficulty in deal sites are going strong in Vietnam. “We are very clear on the fact that we delivering physical vouchers. “It doesn’t Despite the size of the industry, WeSave do not sell services or products. What make economical sense to me. It is a costly

92 and inconvenient way that doesn’t belong in this industry. We are not selling tangible products, we are selling promotions.” On “The customers come to me and pay me. I get Vietnamese sites, it takes anywhere from the money the moment I incur cost. They make three to five days and numerous phone calls to deliver a single voucher to the customer. money from selling our promotions. It’s win-win- Sometimes it is difficult for the Vietnamese delivery man to communicate with non- win, for us, for WeSave, and for the buyers.” Vietnamese customers to rendezvous a delivery time. WeSave's digital delivery option means that they can easily bypass this hurdle. Second, since the customers pay the supplier directly, this eliminates the money transferring process between the deal website and the suppliers. “Other sites hold the money for up to three months,” says Petr. “It is terrible for business cash flow. And on top of that, they charge a heavy commission. There are also cases where the suppliers don’t get their money back from the daily deal sites.” Merchant Feedback To date, WeSave has amassed more than 60 merchants for their launch and they all look forward to a long and fruitful partnership. “I am most concerned about branding,” says Valencia Tran, the woman behind Vincom Clair Center, a high-tech beauty clinic, and one of WeSave’s merchants. “What we do here all hinges on top quality, top services, top safety. Our branding must reflect who we are. Vietnamese deal sites, because they must target the largest and least demanding market, do not have much in terms of branding or merchant quality control. I have high hopes to establish the Clair brand as a reputable, prestigious name alongside other similar merchants under Valencia Tran, Vincom Clair Center James Heng, owner of JJ’s Brazillian WeSave.” Restaurant and Bar Like Valencia, James Heng, owner of JJ’s Brazilian Restaurant and Bar on Pham Ngu Lao in District 1, is a businessman with less than perfect past experiences with Vietnamese deal websites. “It is always so difficult to get the money from them. I run a food business. Cost is incurred on the day, but I had to wait for at least a month, sometimes more for the money I made to get to the bank.” James has cycled through various Vietnamese deal sites before. “Hotdeal, Nhommua, Cungmua, I’ve tried them all.” On his partnership with WeSave, a new brand in a notoriously ruthlessly competitive market, James is not at all concerned. “I run no risk,” he says simply. “The customers come to me and pay me. I get the money the moment I incur cost. They make money from selling our promotions. It’s win-win-win, for us, for WeSave, and for the buyers.” “In Europe, the economy is down, so the national trend is for everyone to save as much as possible. Of course in this environment, the Groupon industry and services thrive,” adds Giacomo Erre, the managing director of Villa Aesthetica Cosmedi Spa who has also partnered with WeSave. “I have seen their model. It’s good. So I have high hopes for them.” Giacomo Erre, the managing director of Villa Aesthetica Cosmedi Spa

93 LEGAL EASE legal Column

Dear Hadrien,

In January, I agreed with my landlord to sign a one-month lease agreement (uncertain of my plans at that time) and that I could leave at any time if I gave him a week’s notice. Now that I

actually want to move out of the apartment, A member of the Paris Bar, Hadrien Wolff has been practicing law in Vietnam for more than seven years, the landlord is starting to cause trouble for me. currently as a partner of Audier & Partners based at its HCMC office. Having gained extensive legal experience He doesn’t want to return my deposit unless in the and Cambodia, Marijn Sprokkereef is an associate at the Hanoi office of the same firm.Audier I give him a month’s notice, and is also asking & Partners is an international law firm with presence in Vietnam, Myanmar and Mongolia, providing advice to me to pay taxes for one year of rent! Since foreign investors on a broad range of legal issues. January, I have not signed any other lease agreement with him, but he seems to base his claims on some papers that he helped me fill out for my temporary residence registration. Can he just do that and what are my legal rights?

The key to understanding and the basis of that written agreement, at would be liable to pay any taxes for a hopefully resolving your current situation the end of the term of the contract (i.e. period of one year. Paying income tax has to do with your relationship with after a month as from the moment the as a lessor of a residential apartment is your landlord, as a result of the joint lease agreement became effective, which your landlord’s own responsibility and interpretation of the contractual provisions should be the date when you moved in) without being able to provide evidence under the initial one-month lease your contractual relationship with the of your written agreement to the agreement that you signed in January, landlord for the lease of your apartment contrary, his claim is groundless. the oral agreement on the extension should have terminated automatically Being aware of your rights to use of the term, and the legal provisions of and, as a consequence, you should have them as leverage in your negotiations Vietnamese law governing the extension moved out of the apartment and your is surely one helpful thing, efficiently of lease agreements in respect of landlord should have reimbursed you enforcing those rights before a civil residential houses and apartments. the deposit that you paid. However, court is unfortunately something very Before entering into the details of the I understand that there was an oral different. Starting court proceedings in matter, I would like to warn you and understanding with your landlord that Vietnam for a case like yours is probably our dear readers that as in many legal you would stay longer than a month, not worth your time and money. systems around the world, civil parties without any written amendment to the I would suggest you discuss the in Vietnam enjoy a great amount of lease agreement to reflect this. situation tactfully with your landlord once freedom in determining the conditions The Vietnamese Civil Code states more on the basis of the clarifications of their relationship as provided under that any agreement for the lease of of your legal position as set out above, the contract that will bind them. residential houses and apartments and trying to find a mutually acceptable Consequently, one should always must be made in writing. Failure to solution. Making some concessions, for be prudent when becoming a party to do so makes such an agreement void example, by agreeing to apply a one a contract, even if that contract seems and invalid. One consequence of such month notice before moving out of your to be as trivial as a short-term lease principle is that the term of a lease apartment in order for the landlord to have agreement. This seems obvious but it is agreement may only be automatically sufficient time to find a new lessee, could worth reiterating. extended if there is a provision to that help you reach a compromise. If you do Without being able to actually effect in the written lease agreement. come to an agreement with your landlord, review the contract that you signed, Therefore, your landlord may not make sure to execute a new detailed I unfortunately cannot provide any validly claim that you are bound by a contract that reflects the full extent of the definitive advice on your specific legal verbal agreement on the conditions of agreed terms and conditions of the lease. position, but I can share some thoughts the extension of the term of the contract And in the future, remember to with you in more general terms. and he likewise cannot argue that your always avoid half written, half verbal Based on the description of the initial agreement has been automatically agreements. Everything should be inked! facts that you gave in your question, I extended for one year or longer or that Every month, Hadrien and Marijn understand that you have signed a lease the papers that you filled out for your answer legal questions from Oi readers. agreement for a period of one month temporary residence would serve as a If you have any legal questions you without agreeing in writing on any new lease agreement. want answered, send them to legal@ automatic extension of the term. On The same applies to his claim that you oivietnam.com.

94 SMILE DENTAL Column

Dear Dr Lam Tran,

My mom is now 60-years-old. She lost all her teeth and this has limited her diet. Eating food like fruits and certain vegetables are now difficult and painful for her. She is wearing dentures but they aren’t helping as much as we Tran Hung Lam, Ph.D. graduated from the Ho Chi Minh City Medicine and Pharmacy University. After getting would like. She had her dentures made in the his PhD from the University of the Mediterranean (Marseille, France) in 2007, he has been working as US and now we’re moving to Vietnam. Is there Head of the Prosthodontics Department at Elite Dental Group (www.elitedental.com.vn). Dr. Lam successfully a way to replace her dentures to help improve presented clinical cases of implants at ICOI conference (Hamburg, Germany). He holds a Diplomate of the ICOI her chewing, and can it be done in Vietnam? - the highest rank of ICOI member.

2.5 hours. A temporary bridge will be restored (teeth in a day).

3) The implants will be left undisturbed for several weeks allowing them to be ‘osseointegrated’. Checkup and follow-up after 10 days.

4) The dentist will take an impression to make the replacement bridge. The bridge is fabricated for a perfect fit in the arch area to create a natural look.

5) Test the new bridge for a proper fit.

6) Cementation of the new bridge to the abutment.

Dental implants can be applied on almost any edentulous patient. However, Tooth loss, dental disease and Biocare company - a world leading implant for those 50 and older, in your mom’s gum disease are common issues as people manufacturer in . All-on-4 means case, it is important for the doctor to get older. About 20 percent of adults in placing four implants into the jawbone at know her medical background before the US aged 65 and older have lost all of an angle, minimizing bone grafting or sinus suggesting this as a possible solution. their natural teeth because of tooth decay augmentation. Later, multi-unit abutments Patients with high blood pressure, or gum disease. The reasons behind this will be placed as a bridge, which supports coagulation disorders or diabetes, for problem can stem from poor oral hygiene the prosthetic teeth, including 12 to 14 example, should seek advice from their and habits, poor nutrition, trauma or teeth of each jaw immediately on the day medical doctor first. Dental surgery done injury, the degeneration process due to of surgery. under general anesthesia is also possible. age, hormonal changes, and medication. The procedure can be completed in two The first several weeks after surgery Missing teeth affects the pattern and months in Vietnam and comes with clear are crucial for the healing process. function of the teeth, reducing quality of benefits such as utilizing four implants This stage will show how the implants life, self-esteem and confidence, and can per jaw, no bone grafting, restoring facial integrate with the surrounding bone. cause serious social, psychological and muscle tone, creating a natural look, Follow all advice given by the dentist emotional consequences. saving time and money while lowering – take prescribed medicine, keep your It used to be that dentures were the discomfort. It will usually take six visits mouth clean by brushing, flossing only solution. However, patients often from start to finish: and rinsing with special antiseptic complained of slurred speech, food stuck mouthwash daily, and refrain from under the dentures and pain. And dentures 1) Consultation including clinical and drinking beer. recovered only 50-60 percent of chewing radiographic records. The dentist creates a There is a 90 percent success rate but ability, reducing the enjoyment of savoring treatment and financial plan tailored to meet with any minor surgical procedures your food. your needs. there is always the chance of common Fortunately, there is a new technique problems or complications. Do not that is ideal for your mom called All- 2) The day of surgery where the dental hesitate to ask the dentist about anything on-4 dental implants developed by Nobel implant is placed. The procedure lasts about in particular that worries you.

95 The List

Atexpats is Ho Chi Minh City's first truly Business & Tech comprehensive insider's guide for foreign residents China Consulate Myanmar Consulate and global personal accident. banks 39 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 50 Sam Son, Tan Binh 21st Floor, 115 Nguyen Hue, D1 3829 5009 5449 2425 Asia Commercial Bank www.vn.china-embassy.org/eng/ www.gmas.com.vn AIG Vietnam 442 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Mon-Fri: 8.30am - 11am Mon-Fri: 9am - 12pm; 2pm - 5pm; Sat: 9am AIG’s presence in Vietnam dates 39290999 - 12pm back to the 1920s, although modern China Consulate - Commercial Office operations began back in 2005. They Bank of China 39 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 New Zealand Consulate offer a wide range of personal and 19th Floor, 115 Nguyen Hue, D1 3823 1142 235 Dong Khoi, D1 commercial insurance products. 3821 9949 [email protected] 3822 6907 9th Floor, Saigon Center, 65 Le Loi, D1 www.hochiminh.mofcom.gov.cn Mon - Fri: 8.30am - 11.30am; 1.00pm - Citibank 5.00pm Baoviet Insurance Corporation 15/F Sun Wah Tower, 115 Nguyen Hue, D1 Consulate BaoViet is now the leading financial 3824 2267 45 Phung Khac Khoan, D1 Nordcham insurance group in Vietnam with more 094 801 6318 3829 7350 12A Floor, Bitexco Building, 19-25 Nguyen than 145 branches across 63 provinces. Mon-Fri: 8am - 11.30am; 1.30pm - 4.30pm Hue, D1 23-25 Thai Van Lung, D1 Commonwealth Bank 3821 5423 BHNT Great Eastern 65 Nguyen Du, D1 Denmark Consulate www.nordcham.com 3824 1525 115 Nguyen Hue, D1 Life assurance & financial plans for 012 1861 8695 3821 9373 Norway Consulate customers of various age groups. The Mon-Thu: 8.30am - 4.30pm; Fri: 8.30am 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 company’s focus is on promoting HSBC - 3pm 3822 1696 health and longevity - they have the perfect incentive to do so, really. Metropolitan Bulding, 235 Dong Khoi, D1 [email protected] Consulate Level 8, 25 Bis Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 3724 7247 Mon – Fri: 08.30am - 11.30am; 1.30pm - Room 501, 5/F Sailing Tower, 111A Pasteur, D1 4.30pm Mizuho Corporate Bank 3827 2029 Blue Cross Blue Cross Vietnam is a Medical 18th Floor, 115 Nguyen Hue, D1 Panama Consulate France Consulate Insurance Administrator specializing in 3827 8260 7A Le Thanh Ton, D1 27 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 3825 0334 Health and Travel insurance in Asia.Our Standard Chartered Bank 3520 6819 [email protected] competitive advantage is in our design www.consulfrance-hcm.org and administration of modern travel and Saigon Trade Center 1st Floor, 37 Ton Duc medical insurance plans; plans built for Thang, D1 Hon. Consulate of Germany Consulate people living and working in Vietnam. 3911 0000 66/11 Pham Ngoc Thach 126 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 3820 0623 Level 8, River View Tower, 7A Thai Van Lung, Shinhan Vietnam 3829 2455 D1. 3821 9908 www.ho-chi-minh-stadt.diplo.de Russia Consulate 100 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Mon-Fri: 8am - 11.30am; 1.30pm - 4.30pm IGlobal Assist 3829 1581 40 Ba Huyen Thanh Quan, D3 Consulate Offers insurance programs offered by Vietcombank Consulate-General of The Republic of ACE, Liberty, Seven Corners and other 22 Phung Khac Khoan, D1 Singapore global insurers. Free consultation and 2bis-4-6 Le Thanh Ton, D1 3829 0130 8th floor, Saigon Center, 65 Le Loi, D1 custom quotes for most lines of insurance 3824 4797 3822 5174 including health, travel, home, auto, www.vietcombank.com.vn Consulate www.mfa.gov.sg motorbike, property, liability, and personal 80 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 accident. concierge Mon-Fri: 9am - 5pm Consulate www.iglobalassist.com Consulate General of India 64-68 Hai Ba Trung, D1 IF Consulting Giup.me (help.me) 55 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 South Korea Consulate IF Consulting has for 20 years provided A local concierge service fluent in English, 3823 7050 107 Nguyen Du, D1 advice to individuals and businesses in Vietnamese and Mandarin to assist in www.india-consulate.org.vn 3822 5757 assessing health/accident risk and finding all your personal needs from finding an Mon-Fri: 8.30am - 12.30pm, 1 pm - 5pm Mon-Fri: 9am - 12pm; 1.30pm - 5pm the best suitable solution. The company is apartment, domestic help and schools, Indonesia Consulate independent and Vietnam-based. to setting up a local company, renewing Sweden Consulate IBC Building, 3rd Floor, 1A Me Linh Square, visas, car services and arranging medical/ 18 Phung Khac Khoan, D1 8A/11 Thai Van Lung, D1 D1 3825 1888 legal services. They charge a flat rate www.insuranceinvietnam.com Mon-Fri: 8am - 12pm; 2pm - 5pm 3823 6800 VND175,000 per hour. Mon–Fri: 8am - 12pm; 1.30pm - 4.30pm 7300 4487 (7300 GIUP) Italy Consulate Liberty Mutual Insurance [email protected] Liberty Mutual is a 100% US-owned 81 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Switzerland Consulate www.giup.me general insurer licensed to provide 08 6258 6473 42 Giang Van Minh, D2 insurance services directly to Mon-Fri: 8am - 12pm; 1pm - 4pm 3744 6996 consulates Vietnamese individuals and state- Japanese Consulate Thailand Consulate owned enterprises as well as motor insurance. Australian Consulate-General 261 Dien Bien Phu, D3 77 Tran Quoc Thao, D3 08 3933 3520 15th Floor, Kumho Asiana Plaza, 39 Le 47 Ly Tu Trong, D1 8.30am - 11.30am; 1.15pm - 4.45pm The Consulate Duan, D1. 3812 5125 3521 8100 28 Mac Dinh Chi, D1 Mon-Fri: 8.30am - 12pm; 1pm - 5pm Kuwait Consulate LIG Insurance The UK Consulate The company provides property Consulate 24 Phung Khac Khoan, D1 3827 0555 25 Le Duan, D1 and casualty insurance, along with 105 Duong Van An, D2 [email protected] 3829 8433 customer relations management and 6281 8001 Mon-Fri: 9am - 4pm automobile claims support services and 9am - 11.30am on Mon, Tue, Thu, Fri U.S. Consulate General Ho Chi Minh long-term insurance to individuals and Laos Consulate City corporations. Cambodia Consulate 93 Pasteur, D1 34 Le Duan, D1 Unit 809, 8th Floor, 115 Nguyen Hue, D1 41 Phung Khac Khoan, D1 3829 7667 3520 4610 3821 9968 3829 2751

Mon-Fri: 8am - 11.30am; 1pm - 4.30pm ats Mon-Fri: 7.30am - 11.30am; 2pm - 5pm Ukraine Consulate McLarens Young International

McLarens Young International is a te xp Malaysia Consulate 22-24 Nguyen Van Thu, D1 A Consulate General of Canada 2 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 global claims service provider that helps 10th floor, The Metropolitan, 235 Dong 3829 9023 our clients achieve timely and equitable Khoi, D1 [email protected] insurance claims resolution. 3827 9899 Mon-Fri: 8am - 11.30am 9th Floor, Yoco Building, 41 Nguyen Thi Mon-Thu: 8.30am - 4.30pm ACE Life Insurance Minh Khai, D1. 3821 3316 Mexico Consulate One of the world’s largest multiline Chile Consulate 215 A-B Hoang Van Thu, Phu Nhuan property and casualty insurers, Prudential Vietnam 79/1/1 Phan Ke Binh, D1 3844 5520 insurance products include universal Prudential Vietnam is one of the

3910 2903 Mon-Fri: 8am - 3pm life insurance, term life, whole life, riders, leading life insurers nationwide, also ©2014 Co pyri g ht L istin g s

96 providing a variety of financial solutions, represents a creative edge in meeting the Level 2, Pathfinder Building, 52 Dong Du, AP assumes complete responsibility with over 200 customer service centers, evolving legal landscape in this country. D1. 6291 4707 for all moving services through a single branch offices and general agency and Unit 4A2, 4F Nam Han Office Building, 65 point of contact. business partner offices. Nguyen Du, D1. 3822 2942 House Link District 1. 0122 5141 848 Unit 25F, Saigon Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc House Link offers a wide array of Thang, D1 JP Law Firm apartments and houses for lease all Asian Tigers J&P Law is a full-service law firm over Ho Chi Minh City. Pan-Asian moving firm with a perhaps 3910 1660information technology providing the highest quality legal 23 Phung Khac Khoan, D1 unrivalled level of experience and services to both international and 3824 5271 expertise in packing, storing and domestic clients, and its widely- moving a family’s treasured belongings Asia Pacific Solutions recognized practice areas include Realty World throughout this region and beyond. A software development and IT support Corporate, M&A and Finance. Focuses on real estate business, 9th Floor, Unit 9.3, service company, services include Level 7 - Room 702, 81-85 Ham Nghi, D1 consulting, managing, and marketing. 9 Doan Van Bo, D4. 3826 7799 developing all kinds of engineering Currently they specialize in apartments, systems and implementing software Logos Law Firm office buildings, and villas. Crown Line solutions. Crown Line is a well-known Japanese Suite 1201, 12th Floor, 111A Pasteur, D1 Logos HCMC Office offers 111 Nguyen Huu Canh, Ward 22, Binh comprehensive legal services in a Thanh. 3899 4979 moving firm now operating out of Ho wide range of subject areas for foreign Chi Minh City. NTT Communications Vietnam 60 Nguyen Van Thu, D1 NTT Com Vietnam delivers high- investors in Vietnam through highly Savills quality ICT services to customers in qualified lawyers licensed in Korea, Savills PLC is a global real estate JVK International Movers Vietnam, providing voice and data Vietnam, and the . services provider listed on the London Unit 2002B, 72-74 Nguyen Thi Minh Stock Exchange. Focused primarily on the international communication infrastructure, and and local movement of household Khai, D3 Avalon building, 53 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, supporting SME goods since 1979, JVK has established 3822 7161 D1. 3825 8598 11th Floor, Sailing Tower, 111A Pasteur, D1 itself as a leader in this unique 3827 3646 Phuoc & Partners Company The Nest transportation field. 1st Floor, Saigon Port Building, 3 Nguyen Prism Smart IT Phuoc & Partners is an independent The Nest is a customer-dedicated Tat Thanh, D4. 3826 7655 Prism is a foreign-owned Information law and consulting firm with integrated property company focusing on leasing and Communications Technology legal and tax practices. The firm enables luxurious properties in Saigon. French- company that offers IT Managed Logical Moves clients to reduce their administrative Vietnamese managed with over four They offer your belongings the best Services and Total Business Solutions overhead and focus on core business. years of property experience. to companies throughout Vietnam. protection available with the latest Room 1602, Level 16, Centec Tower, 369/6 Do Xuan Hop, Phuoc Long B, D9 technology, experienced staff and 4th Floor, Yoco Building, 41 Nguyen Thi 72-74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Minh Khai, D1 equipment. With door to door services, relocation Logical Moves is all about quality real estate agencies service, best prices and well-arranged finances time. They have moved offices and AGS Four Winds (Vietnam) household goods for many well-known Colliers International Vietnam Global leader in international removals international companies in Vietnam. ats Total Wealth Management Globally, Colliers International is a A team of experts available to offer & relocations, with 128 offices in 78 3941 5322 te xp leading commercial real estate services countries, they can move you to/or www.logicalmoves.net

A advice and options on how to manage your wealth. company offering comprehensive from any location worldwide. 66/11 Pham Ngoc Thach expertise to investors, owners and 5th Floor, Lafayette De Saigon, 8A Phung Santa Fe Relocation Service 3820 0623 tenants around the world. Khac Khoan, D1 Door to door relocation service which [email protected] Bitexco Office Building, 7th Floor, 19-25 35210071 promises to take the stress out of Nguyen Hue, D1. 3823 3529 [email protected] moving personal possessions from one www.agsfourwinds.com city - or country - to another. Also offers law firms Cushman & Wakefield Vietnam pet relocations, records management, Their primary focus is on consultancy, Allied Pickfords home search and immigration help. Apex Law brokerage, and investment across the One of the largest and most respected www.santaferelo.com ©2014 Co pyri g ht L istin g s The Apex management system retail, office, and hospitality sectors. providers of moving services worldwide, [email protected]

97 Faces & Places

Game of Precision Food Heaven Adorned

The Saigon International Darts The Windsor hotel brought over celebrity SONG held an exclusive cocktail party League (SIDL) held a party at Lion chef Martin Yan to promote their USDA to view a new limited edition jewelry Restaurant to hand out awards and premium choice beef and mooncake collection by PHU HIEP x SONG. to celebrate the mid-year season. specialties for July and August.

Images by NGOC TRAN Images by NGOC TRAN AND JAMES PHAM Images by adam robert young

98 An American Early Childhood and Elementary International School for students 18 months to 11 years

The Right Track to University

Why Parents Choose Saigon Pearl

Highly Qualified American Teachers Over 90% of our teachers have Masters Degrees in their specialist subjects. World-Class Facilities Including a library with over 10,000 English books, state-of-the-art ICT lab, smartboards & iPads . Rigorous American Curriculum with Outstanding Academic Results Last year our students achieved an average growth of over two grade levels. Part of a Global School Network We are owned by the largest international schools group in the world - Cognita, which includes ISHCMC and ISHCMC American Academy. University Preparation From Early Years to Graduation Seamless transition into the prestigious ISHCMC - American Academy which has a 100% acceptance rate for students who apply to overseas universities.

International School Saigon Pearl 92 Nguyen Huu Canh St., Ward 22, Binh Thanh Dist., HCMC Tel: (84-8) 2222 7788/99 | Email: [email protected]

www.issp.edu.vn 99 Dr. HUNG & ASSOCIATES DENTAL CENTER The largest dental center in town

First-class dentistry, specialized in: • DENTAL IMPLANT • COSMETIC DENTISTRY • BRACES with the modern equipment and latest technology. We are ready to provide the best treatment results and State-of-Art for your dental work.

We are proud of our teamwork with experts and specialists.

A: Building 244A Cong Quynh st. Dist 1, HCMC T: (84) 8 3925 7526 - (84) 8 3925 7527 E: [email protected] W: www.drhung01.com