B UCKINGHAM SH I RE TH E L I TTL E G U I D E S
C N M B R I D G F AND ITS MONMOUTHSHIR E C OLLEGES NORFOL K O % FO R D AND ITS COLLEGES NORTHAMPTONSHIRE ’ 5T PAUL S CATHEDRAL NORTH UM BERLAND WESTMINSTER A BBEY NOTTINGHAMSHIRE T H E TEMPLE O % FORDSHIRE R P T H E ENGLISH LAKE S SH O SHIRE T H E MALVERN COUNTRY SOMERSET ' ' STA FF R DS I I I R E S H A K E S I EA R B S COUNTRY O SUFFO B HI LK ERKS RE SU RREY BUCKINGHAMSHIRE B SUSSE % CAM RIDGESHIRE ' T H E E A ST RIDING O F THE CHANNEL IS L ANDS YORKSHIRE CHESHIRE THE NORTH RIDING OF CORNWALL YORKSHIRE DERBYSHIRE THE WEST RIDING OF DEVON YORKSHIRE DORSET WARWI CKSHIR E DURHAM WILTSHIRE ESSE % GLOUC ESTERSHIRE NORTH WALES HAMPSHIRE SOUTH WALES HERTFORDSHIRE KERRY THE ISI E OF WIGHT BRITTANY LEICESTERSHIRE AND NORMANDY RUTLAND LONDON ROME M IDDLESE % SICILY
’ F CO L L I G F E B E ON CHAP L , FROM FOOT RIDGE
BUCKINGHAMSHI
By E s R OSCOE
’ I /[wtmfea éy F D BEDFO RD
Th e slopin g l an d re ce d es i nto th e c louds D isplay ing on its var i e d sid e th e gra ce Of e e -row e au es num e r e ss s ua re o e r h dg b ti b l , q t w , Tall s re from c th e soun o f c e e rfu be lls p i , whi h d h l ’ us un u a e s u o n th e list n in ea r J t d l t p g y ,
Grove s e a s and smo n v a e s re mo e . , h th , ki g ill g , t
T a sk k I . C h e T B . OWPER , ,
L O N D O N
M ETH U EN O . L TD 85 C .
nd 3 6 Essex St . Stra
Seco E i io R e v ise nd d t n, d
PR E FAT O R Y N O T E
SI NC E th e first edition o f this Littl e Guide was of published , the fac e Buckinghamshire has
of n ew w been altered by the construction rail ays . These have produced considerable ch anges in
of W t e the south the County, here populou s side ntial districts have been created in sparsely populated localities . The publication of the two R epor ts of tbe
R o al C ommission on Ancient M onuments 1 12 y , in 9
1 1 o f and 9 3 , has placed an immense mass authori tative details at the servi ce of those wh o are interested i n the antiquities of Buckingham l shire . Of these va uabl e volumes adequate use h as been made i n preparing this edition . S R E . . .
M ay 1914
C O NT E NT S PAGE I NTRODUCTION
I S % B . ITUATION E TENT, AND OUN
I I F S Y . GENERA L EATURES , CENER , A ND C LI M ATE
GEOLO G Y FLORA AN D FAUNA
PO PULATION A ND I NDUSTRI ES C O M M UNICATIONS
ANTI Q UITI ES
ARC H ITECTU RE
HISTO RY
H ISTORICA L C H ARACTERS
DESCRI PTION O F PLACES I N B U C KING H A M
H G PH B Y - 2 8 2 S I RE AR RA N E D AL A ETICA L L , 59
PP % — B A n S 2 8 - 2 8 A ENDI R SSES, Roo C REENS 3 4
BI B LIOG RA PH Y 2 8 5- 2 86
INDE % O P PERSONS 2 87 - 2 89
L I ST O F I LL U ST RAT I O N S M APS AN D PLA N S PAGE R AI LW AYS OP BUCK I NGH AMS HI RE ETON COLLEGE CHAPEL A MERSHAM
Fr om Pbo b M essr s . T o a to ra /I H PV. a unt C . ( g p y , Ox r d fo . ) B EACONSFIEL D CHURCH ° r om o s r W a Pb to ra lz b M e s s H . Ta unt 59 Co. ( F g p y . ,
Oxf ord. ) R D N C S T H D RW B A E HAM CH UR H , OU OO AY
Pbot ra b b M ssrs H W Taun m a o e . . t o r o C . ( F g p y , r Oxfo d. )
TH E O L D R N C K N M BULL I G, BU I GHA PLA N OF BURNHAM B EECH ES BURN HAM B EECH ES M T N’ TT NT ST G IL O S CO AGE , CHALFO ILES TH E S UND I D N H U AL , CLAY O O SE CLI FTON R EY s CHURCH ; TH E R EY N ES CHAPEL ‘ ’ Pb o ra lz b M es rs V l ntine ons rom a ot s . a e 59 S ( F g p y j ,
L td Dundee . . , DINTON H ALL AND CHURCH PLAN o r ETON COLLEGE ’ KEA T s L N ET N A E , O H AMPDEN CHURCH TT H A R L EY POR D CO AGES , ’ M r . V r om a Pboto ra lz b ess s H I . Tau Co ( F g p y nt . , Ox ord f . )
H U N D EN CH N T B OF E O F GHE CHUR , A D OM ARL BEACONSFI ELD
Fr om Pbot ra ls b M essrs Va l nt n ons a o . e z e S ( g p y 7 ,
L td Du ee. . nd )
I A L I ST OF I LLU ST R AT I O N S
TH E M PET I N G H U D O SE , JOR ANS
Fr om a Pboto r a /z b M essr s H IV T u t . a n Co. ( g p y . , O rd xfo . ) ’ SH r L L PY s H S G T M A R L O w OU E , REA W R R M A N D C H U R C H O N CO PE OLLER ILL , L EY TH E WI N W A NT N OOD LMSHOUSES , Q UAI O STEW KLEY CH U RCH STOK E POGES CHURCH STO W E H OUSE
om P M l Fr a /xoto ra /z b essrs . Va ent ine Cg Sons ( g p y 7 ,
L td. Dundee , . ) WA DDESDON M ANOR ’ r m a P/zoto r b M r V l F o a b ess s . a entine 59 Sons ( g p y 7 , L Dun e td d e . . , ) H ST W D V R IGH REET , EN O E ’ H W U N D E W D COWPER S OUSE, ESTON R OO WH I T PL EA F CROSS ’ m a Pb ot o ra b b M essr s H W T unt r o . a 69 Co ( F g p y . , Ox ord f . ) U PPER WI NCHEN DON CHURCH WYCOM B E A B B EY ’ Fr anz a Pbot o ra b b M essrs . Valentine 59 Sons ( g p y 7 ,
L td Dundee . . , ) WEST WYCOM B E CHURCH ’ M r W un From a Pb oto ra /z b ess s H . . Ta t 59 Co. ( g p y , Ox ord f . )
M A P O F B U C KI N G H A M SH I R F
— M s t o a n e N ata M e ssrs ETH U E N wi h ck owl e dg th e ir n ne ss to the a e Sir E mun Ve ne M e ss s Va e n ne i d e bte d l t d d r y, r l ti So ns L t d Fre e man s Saun e s Pa ne P o , . , , Hill d r , y , igg tt , d Wa fo So n f o m ose o s T aun C o . an o a t , l rd , r wh ph t gr ph a e e n ma e Th e ans ave e e n a n th e d rawi ng s h ve b d . pl h b dr w B B e r a o f E on f om the an in t h e E n b M r . C . ou o y lt , th t t r pl t n b s on o f the u s e s C ale d ar y pe rmi si p bli h r .
I NT RODU CT I O N
S % A N D B I . ITUATION , E TENT, OUNDA RIES
U CKIN G H AM SH I R E on e Of th e , southern of e w midland counti es England, lying b t een ° ’ ° ' ° ' 1 2 2 10 0 2 8 5 5 and 5 north latitude , and and ° ' 1 12 w on . est longitude, is bounded the N by
Northamptonshire, W . by Oxfordshire, S . by f e . e Berkshir , and E by M iddles x , Hert ordshire f e and Bed ordshire . Its extrem northern and L Wr ardisb ur southern poi nts are avendon and y y . l ts e e gr atest l ength is 53 miles , greatest br adth 2 e 7 mil es its area is acr s , or nearly 7 49 ua e e of e e 1 1 2 we e sq r mil s ; th s , in 9 , r e we z e e 2 80 perman nt grass and arabl , 5 we re mountain and h e ath land and 2 0 51 were wa e I t be a e u k t r . should dd d that B c ingham shire is th e thirty - third in size of the English u i e co nt s , The county derives its name from the town of e differ Buc kingham . Authoriti s as to its ety I molo o gy. I n p pular Opinion i t has been con side re d f e S to have been derived rom Buck n (A . . ’ m en— e a Ca d Buck n S. Bucc B uc ce e n be e c ee s Sir ( ), h tr ; ' — Hen S elrnan Bu ce en e . ucks or e e L sons in g p , g . , b d r ; y , M agma Britan n i a state s th at bo c h re fe rs t o its be ing b o c h — l an d in con tradisti nc ti on to folk l an d ; B rowne Will i s Rue Ce vus e a uck or a an d fo e s Sbea/zan is of r , g . , b h rt r t ; O n on a Buck n am e ve s its n ame f om its A S pi i th t i gh d ri r . . o e o s the B u n ck s or R o ck n s . pr pri t r , i g i g A B U CKI N G H A M S H I RE
Boc c e e n = b e e c h w Bucca, ) trees , an idea hich probably arose from the beech forests which extended southwards from the summit Of the e e a e w Chilt rns , but it is mor prob bl that i t o es to - its name directly an Anglo Saxon thane , one w e e w Buck or Bock , hose heirs and d p ndants ould Boc kin s e in e A S be the g (the syllabl g b ing . . x e o f patronymic sufii ). Henc the name their - o f t h e f o f settl ement Bucki ng ham , home amily o r Bock Buck .
A F A S Y AN D C M AT I I . GENER L E TURES, CENER LI E
If a s e cond Arthur Young we re beginning a o f ck h e w f survey Bu inghamshire , ould start rom the northern apex which incl udes the valley o f w w lo w the Ouse ith its sluggish aters and large , w o n e lying meado s , and has the upp r ground a mixed agricultural district akin to that Of f e e Bed ordshir , chiefly arabl , large fields mark ed fi - f e d by rst rate arming . As he proc ede south wards he would find that o n e branch O f this f river, call ed the Ousel , comes rom the t h e e e east passing along edg Of Bedfordshir , whil e t h e main Ouse flows from th e west - from B uckingham and th e bord e rs o f North am tonshire w e t wo p . Bet een th se streams the mai n portion o f the northern part Of th e e o f county is extend d , a space broken o f low w C country , heights , oods , opses , and w some hat small enclosures , alternately grass and e a f arabl e , Of pl easant villag s and sm ll armsteads -when h e -touches th e rail way from Bl etchl ey GE N E RAL FEAT U R E S
wi — for to Oxford he ll perceive as , instanc e , from th e churchyard of East Claydon extending before of f him a tract ertil e pasture land , broken by eminences such as the distant hill o f Bril l and of e of the heights Ashendon , the c entre and typ which are the i mm e morial grazing grounds Of w w Creslo , and hi ch , commonly called the Val e o f e Ayl esbury, xtends to the uprising range Of the
e wh o n . Chil t rns , ich break the horizon the south e 1 This is a spac e n arly 5 mil es in breadth , in a - e o f a of bee lin gr ssy hill and pasture, picturesque villag e s with heavily thatched and white - wall ed on e o f cottages clustered emin nces , churches Of no e littl architectural interest , and anci ent manor s f house . I n its ertility and spaciousn ess it is mark e dly in contrast to the land between the summits of the Chilterns and the borders Of if Middlesex and the valley Of the Thames , and we eliminate for a moment the farmhouses whi ch are e e r w scatt r d here and the e in the meado s , and the hedges which were planted at the beginning of 18 w the th c entury , hen the enclosure of ma Open fields becam e common , and ny acres we sh all Of arable land became pastures , have a cl ear idea Of the centre Of me dimval Buckingham shire with the village community grouped around th e C w hurch and the manor hous e, n ear hich ’ w desme snes w o t ere the lord s , hil e the cattl e th e village were sent to graze in the marshy and w of w w in undrained lo lands , most hich ere c in a cessibl e except the height Of summer . The most stri king natural feature is form e d by the w ff Chiltern Hills , hich have a ected both the o f scenery and the character the county . Care B U CKI N G HAM S H I R E ful Observers hav e also noted a mark ed differe nc e between th e i nhabitants O f these hills and Of the e Open country, the former b ing smaller , darker ff and more Celtic in appearance . But this di er ence with i mprov e d communications is passing w a ay . North Bucks has been a rich grazing and pas f c toral county rom an early age . South Bu ks has flin t a poor , y and chal ky soil , resul ting in light o f th e crops grain , and in pastures only in vall e ys o r i n the wat e rl e ss bottoms which are e o f charact ristic the Chil tern Hills . t h e v o f e For lo er the picturesqu , the secluded th e - vall eys and bottoms , flint built and thatched cottag e s around the small grey churc h are very attracti ve , but the northern portion Of the w w w undula county, ith its ide vie s , its pl easan t - w e tions , and its churc h cro n d hills , has many e charms . Buckinghamshir can scarcely be said f to possess a river . The Ouse rising in Ox ord e t h e shi re , pass s a mere brook into county n ear a e Bra fie ld e Br ckl y, and l eaves i t at y n ar Olney . With B e rkshire th e county Shar e s in the Tham e s f w o f rom Wraysbury to ithin sight Henl ey, a o f w th e w tributary hich , Thame , has its head aters in the brooks which are seen among the pastures to w e e the est Of Ayl sbury, and l eav s the county t h e f e o at littl e Ox ordshir town f Thame . e The Chess , rising at C hesham , and ntering e S e Herts is only a pr tty trout tr am , as is the Wye Ot e e e e H Wycomb str am . With the xc ption of igh
' Wyc ombe and Slough the re are no to wns of im e e e c c e c u but f portanc , no gr at l siasti al b ilding , rom the meadows of Olne y to t he playing fi e lds of Eton B E E CH WO ODS
o f the county is full charming landscapes , and Of int e r e sting archit e ctural and arch ae ological features . The Chiltern district abounds in w for w of attractive alks , along the hol e line the b f e w w ills , rom Edl sborough to Bledlo , are ide w w e spreading vie s . No h re i n England are more extensiv e beech woods than on th e southern slopes . The gr e e n and stat e ly trunks rising from a carpet Of v o n e w fall en lea es , at season red , at another bro n , e are un e quall e d in th e ir magnific e nc . Some tim e s in wint e r o r spring th e wayfarer will find his path barred by t h e long spare tr e e s laid lo w on th e dry l eaves ; around th e ir heads are th e e n o w cl ean thin branch s , separated by the axe Of th e w e . oodman , but still ncircling the trunk In spring- time on e may look down o n acres Of a w w e peculiarly light delicate green , hich , h n June
e e e O f . has come , tak a shining sob rn ss colour Wi th the last weeks o f S e ptember gorgeous spaces of yellow and red and bronz e begin to th e c e break ontinuity Of colour, and the hu s d e e pen till a ric h brown overspreads the w th e t h e e hollo s and hillsides , until l aves fall f f under the influenc e o the early rost . These b e ech forests affe cted at o n e time t h e of social character the county . They became — the hiding -plac e of bands Of lawl ess men a — rural Alsatia which was a danger to the surround c was w w i ing distri ts . It this la l essness h ch caused the appointment o f a functionary known — as the Steward Of the Chiltern Hundreds O f e — Stok , Desborough , and Burnham that is , Of the w district lying bet een the Chil terns , the Thames of f valley, and the borders Hert ordshire . The S B U CKI N G HA M S H I R E
Office would probably by this ti me be forgotten h ad it no t served by reason Of a Parliamentary fiction to enabl e t h e retirem e nt o f m e mbers Of the House Of Commons . I t is regarded as an f o f w O fic e profit under the Cro n , the acceptance Of which makes a person ineligible any longer e to sit in t h e House without a n e w el ction . far e This curious use , so as r gards the particular ffi e fi 1 0 o ce , se ms to have been rst practised in 74 , and sinc e that date the Stewardshi p O f the Chiltern Hundreds has become part Of th e e e e r cognis d Parliamentary practic . The climate Of the county is affected by the — Chiltern Hills that Of North Bucks is akin to the climate Of the M idlands south Of the range it is w 18 0 18 armer and dryer . From 7 to 99 the average rain fall at Wi nslow (North Bucks) was inch e s ; at Slough (South Bucks)
h e . i nc s B uckinghamshire, both north and south , may be considered a dry county, sinc e it compares not w t u nfavourably i h Cambridgeshire, the driest w nf Of Of English counties , ith an average rai all 2 2 w about 5 inches , and favourably ith a county e by e th e w w such as Suss x , no m ans ettest , ith a f Of 1 rain all 3 inches .
I I G Y I . GEOLO
Th e g e ology o f Buckinghamshire is the main caus e Of the C haract e ristic features both Of the landscap e and t h e agriculture Of the county . 1 f M . B A u e S a an D e c o o H . y br y tr h , ir t r a ur ve G e o l ogi c l S y . 6
BUCK INGHAM SHI RE
e w u f south are high r and n e er . S ch , in act , is the e f case , and in trav lling rom the north to the south o f the county we shall pass over in succ e ssion the outcrops o f various members o f the Oolitic seri es w hich comprise the hills of Brill and Ashendon , i ncluding th e gr e at mass o f the Oxford and Ki mmeridge Clays ; we shall then surmount th e o f n escarpment the chalk , and by descendi g the long dip - slope s to the south of it gain th e are a t h e e w o f occupied by n est strata the county, o f we o f th e namely, some the Lo r Tertiary beds
London area . Th e oldest rock e xposed in the county comes to th e surfac e in the vall e ys o f the Ouse and e e the Tov , and is recognised as the U pp r Lias . This is ove rlain by some sands and clays known w w as the Lo er Estuarin e Series , hich are only a fe w e f f et thick , though their equivalents orm a prominent fe atur e in the Cott e swold Hills . The w e e Great Oolite Series , hich com s n ext , includ s e o f y of an upp r subdivision cla , a middle mass the e e e e w limeston alr ady r f rred to, and a lo er sub o f e e di vision estuarin character . The limeston w e e underlies a id region along the Ous , by Stony Stratford and around Stowe and Biddl e s don and , though much quarried it is inferior to t h e we ll - known stone got from the same bed at Bath . f The Cornbrash , a rubbly and highly ossili f e c o f erous lim stone , though thin hanges least all the Oolitic strata in th e long outcrop across t h e o f England . I t runs along south side the e w Ouse Valley, and extends by N port Pagn ell , e u w Beachampton and n ar B ckingham , ith several O O GEOLOGY pa tch e s severed by denudation from t h e mai n out cro p. f w e The Ox ord Clay, hich comes n xt, is l e 0 0 soft . a estimated to be 4 feet thick , and is a p w e fl blue clay, yielding a soil hich is devoted chi y f o f t o to pasture . I t orms a tract some six ten w of w are mil es in idth , in the middl e hich e w situat d Bletchl ey and Winslo . The Corallian rocks which should follow i t are repr e s e nted i n fe w of Buckinghamshire by a feet clay only, but 10 0 the Ki mmeridge Clay, n ext in order , is abou t V A e sb u fe . th e of l r et thick It crops under ale y y, under parts of which ther e must th e refor e be 0 0 6 0 0 f f between 5 and eet o clay . w w - w The Portland B eds , in hich the ell kno n e we Portland Ston occurs , are quarri ed at Hart ll A w and Aylesbury . clay bet een the ston e and the Kimmeridge Clay was used by the Romans now w w for for pottery, and is orked at Hart ell m . w re aking bri cks Purbec k strata, ith their mar kabl e record of the alternation o f mari ne and e e stuarine conditions , are recognis d at Quainton , w Brill , Cuddington , Ston e , Hart ell and other n places , but both they and the Portla d Beds occur in patches only . We pass no w from the Jurassic system of strata on to what is known as the Cretac e ous Syst e m from the fact of its containing the Chal k (rreta) we e as its pri ncipal member . The lo st m mber, o r e the W alden , is missing i n Buckinghamshire , and the Purbecks are succeeded by the Lo wer w two o r Greensand, hich forms an outcrop three e w e e and mil s i n idth , xt ndi ng from Puttenham To we rse e Aston Clinton to y and Ilm r . It con 9 BUCKI NGHAM SHI RE tains phosphatic nodules which we r e work e d at ’ Brickhill and beds o f full e r s earth which were being dug at Wavendon H e ath so long ago as 1 2 7 3 . of th e w we At the top Lo er Greensand , as ll as at its bottom , there is a gap in the geological Th e w th e record . strata u pon hich Greensand was deposited had been el evated and denuded during the i nterval of time r e presented by the e e and missing W alden B ds, it thus happens that the Gr e e nsand r e sts upon various members o f th e e w e Oolitic seri s , not al ays upon the upp rmost . Betwe en the Gr e ensand and th e Gaul t there is a f a h ow similar uncon ormity, even more m rked e ver, so that not only the Greensand but several o f the Upper Oolitic strata are missi ng below the o f Gaul t i n parts the county . The Gault is a ff u w of 2 0 0 sti bl e clay up ards feet thick . It contains phosphatic nodul es which have been w e ork d in several places , and i n its u pper part e passes into a greenish sand , the Upper Gre nsand f o the southern counties . we f of th e Here reach the oot Chiltern Hills , w o s -w s o f e hich in Co mbe Hill , out h e t Wendov r, form th e highest ground i n Buckinghamshir e 8 2 f ( 5 eet). The chal k , though at first sight e v we homog neous , is readily di isible i nto a lo r of o f division marl , a middl e division massive w fe w H w chalk ith a ints , and ith a hard nodular w t h e bas e kno n as M el bourn Rock , and an upper w w division , in hich flints abound, and hich has a w e band kno n as the Chal k Rock at its bas . Each
division , moreover, is characterised by certain w w fossils , hich experienc e has sho n to be a more t o GEOLOGY
reliabl e guide than the presence o f Hints or even th e character of the rock . The total thickness 80 0 w e is about feet, of hich half is assignabl to th e Th e th e Upper Chal k . dip being to south east th e chal k e scarpment presents a steep fac e - we w to the north st , but descends south ards i n a long slope int e rsected by numerous wi nding e o n e e w valleys , and load d the int rv ning ridges ith r e w superficial g av ls . I n this belt , i th its rich growth o f beech tre e s and t h e softly -flo wing con o f e f e o f tours its dry chal k vall ys , is ound som the e of e best sc nery the Hom Counties . Th e Tertiary Beds occupy th e south e rn angl e o f i n e s the county, bu t occur also num rou patches o n w the chal k slope, here they happen to have c e of es aped denudation . Th y consist generally brightly- tinted sands and clay i n the lower part (R e ading Beds) an d o f a stiff brown clay (London e t w Clay) in the upp r par . They are , ho ever,
much overspread by sup e rfi cial gravels . The superficial deposi ts i n Buckingh amshire a ll belong partly to the Glaci l Epoch . A clay fu of transported boulders covers much of the Oolitic - w outcrops , but the ice sheet to hich i ts formation is attribute d is not known to have crossed the e Chil tern Hills . Along the vall ys there are more r e cent deposits of fl uviatile grav e l in which pal aaolithic implements and remains o f extinct o f mammalia have been discovered . M uch the
chal k is overspread by a nondescript deposit , w th e -w - flints w kno n as clay ith , hich appears to be in the main a relic of Tertiary strata in the sam e region there are many sars e n - stones o r grey w ethers , masses of hardened sand or pebbl es l eft I I BUCKI NGHAM SHI RE lying u pon the chal k after the washing away o f e e the T rtiary beds in which they were form d .
I L R A AN D A U N A IV . F O F — (a ) Fion a Buckinghamshire may be divided — — into two parts the North and South whi c h ff w For di er idely in their botany . botanical pur poses i t is the more general custom to use the various systems o f riv e r drainage as botanical — areas . The county has two such the portions drained respectiv e ly by the Ous e and t h e we Thames . Treating them broadly, find that the botany o f o ne differs considerably from that f 1 e th e o the other . ( ) The district drain d by w e Ouse , hen occasionally it is mark d by gravelly material , as at Westbury Common , gives a heath w Cal/mmEr ica H ericum Flora ith such plants as , yp it/56mm Ga/ium berc nicum A r ortir canina p , y , and g , which di ffers greatly from the flora of the immediate n eighbourhood . In other places , as e w Yri o/ium striatum n ar Winslo , the Clover ( f ) . b e f o f i s may ound . A great extent the country ff on i e sti clay, and this mp rvious soil the Great T a D M A . F. L . S au o o f da B G . C e uce . y l ridg r , , th r lora o Ox rdsfiire Berks/ um and N ortfia m ton F f fl , of qf p r A t the e sen me the o an o f th e c ou n is n ot Mi e. pr t ti b t y ty u nv s a e n or h as an e ne a o a e en th oro ghly i e tig t d , y g r l Fl r b he a fe w e . Th e e h as o e ve for t s e a s publi sh d writ r , h w r , l t y r e e n e n a e in c om n suc a o k an d h as e e n a e b g g d pili g h w r , b bl th e kn o f the o an of th e c oun so far to bri ng owl e dge b t y ty, s its sa e n fe a u e s are conc e ne to some e e e o f com a li t t r r d , d gr e ne H e ou be a to e ce ve an nfo ma on ple t ss. w ld gl d r i y i r ti n the su e c f o an oca o ke a e sse to h im upo bj t r m y l l w r r, ddr d
t 1 18 S ee O xfo . a H igh tr t, rd 12 FLO RA
ff Horsetail grows . T he hedges o er a shelter for e C oniumma m/al um the H mlock ( ), and their borders Di sacus r /w rtrir for the stately Teasel ( p y ), the ’ Groundsel (Sema o the Fleaban e Pu/{caria d senterica Siren ( y ), the Ston e Parsley ( Amomum - ), and , in the badly drained pastures , the ’ nomr r inora Rest Harrow ( O p ) is very common . The hedgerows on the clay have as a frequent c on stit ue nt w C r ata ur ox acantboidcr the Ha thorn ( g y ), a species with larger fruit and with di fferent venation o f the l e aves from the common e r plant 0 O acant/Ja or ny : r n u ne x . C a i a ( . y ) The Cornel ( g ) w e e e is common , and h n calcareous matt r is pr sent in t h e soil we have the Buc kthorn ( R bamnur cutbarticur e Euon mur cura a ur ), the Spindle tre ( y p ) ; ’ whil e o n limeston e soils the Travell er s joy Clematis Vzta/ba 1s w ( ) abundant . The oodlands , spinneys and coppices of Great Bric khill , Great w Hor ood , Moulsoe and Whaddon Chase are also often on clay and then the grass ( Ca/amag ' epigezor) is common . At Gr e at Brickhill th e ’ Par is uadn / a Herb Paris ( q fi z ) occurs . The Throat -wort ( Campanula occurs n e ar
. e Viola r /w rtr ir Lillingston e The Violets incl ud y . Th e Creeping T orme nti l ( Potenti/la pr ocumbmr ) is found near Lillingston e , etc . The Great Burnet Saxifrage ( Pimpine/la major ) is rather w e d idely distribut , as at Shal bourn , Akel ey, West
bury, Brickhill , and M oulsoe , and sometimes as dirrecta M e am the variety . The Cowwheat ( l pyr um rateara m p ) is local , and li kes a ore porous soil . O n a rough , clayey common n ear Westbury the Gr e at Woolly - headed Thistl e ( C a rduur er iopbomr ) w i n 1n gro s great quantity , and , very sparingly, I S BUCKINGHA M SHIRE
’ th e same neighbourhood grows the Dy e r s Weed nirta tincto ia Ge r . ( ) Both Bur Marigolds are found , r i r a mu B idenr t a tit b ut B . re a p being common , is very local , although common at Black Pond , n ear R anunculus Stowe . The Water Buttercups include
m R . nici/ atur R divaricatur uita c l . fl , p , , and in
R beter o b /[ur R . Dr ouctii ponds . p y , , and various
R . eltatus Zannicbe/lia alurt ir forms o f p occur . p r not e e is uncommon , sp cially near Wavendon ; Ma ra b r ida C w e C h arads ( i . hil the , p (Brickhill ), ’ v ul r t a r a o /[a ra ilis C . ar i C . con r z T e f g , g , , and Zyp lom r ata f g e ( Brickhill ) also are ou nd . The Bur reeds Sparganium t ri t i um and neglectum are not f e C arex rare , and sometimes the beauti ul s dge Pse udo-cyper us may be se e n as at Moulso e and Brick hill . The Brambl es are but poorly represented . f f R uour afridar o . A orm occurs at Shalbourn , u m R . besce e perfectly typical p at W stbury Wild , ’ ' au/a h e ecb natoider R . R a f t z is common o ten as var . , R dorna ur R . ccbinatur e . a t is not unfrequ nt , and
w w R . r osaceas occurs n ear Great Hor ood , hil e ’ ' B fll e r s in cunaur grows near u Holt as the var . fi . mb o R . r bo i liur R . j is found n ear Linslade . u darypby/l r is widely distributed . Th e roses e R osa tommtora w R mollirrima includ , Sm . ( hich is . , d e h Will ), and this pref rs a lig ter soil and hilly
’ - Th e e A/cbemilla vul ar is ground . Lady s Mantl ( g ) may occasionally be se e n in pastures and wood a ridings . True m rshes and boggy ground are e w rar , but there are patc hes near Winslo and Souls we th e bury, and then may notice Marsh Helle e E i actir alurtrir th e Scba nur borin ( pp p ), Bog Rush ( m e C arcic a sva e n rica . too ig ), the S dges ( fl ), etc H re , , w w Pin uicula vul aris gro the Butter ort ( g g ), the 14
BUCKI NGHAM SHI R E
So/ida o Vir aur ea t h e w w H ier acium ( g g ), Ha k eeds aort a ]: H . umbellatum Buc ksh orn and , the Planta o C or ono us e Plantai n ( g p ), the H mlock Erodium cicutarium th e l eaves Cran esbill ( ), Speed w Ver onica t inalir f w w ell ofi (o ten ith pink flo ers), the Tri olium rtriatum T a w are Do Clovers f and . , the g Viola canina w A r ena r ia r uor a Viol et , the Sand ort , the Chic kweeds C erartium remidecandr um and — C . a r r/ care Teardalia nudica u/ir f , the Cress ( ) o ten — ’ in th e great e st ab undance the v i ne s Succory ' Arnorcrzr uri/la C al/una Er ica ( p ), the Heaths and Er ica ciner ea th e e C a noide: , Cr eping Fumitory p ' cla vica/ata th e Tanacetum o zcina/e orotir , Tansy fi , M ’ col/ina e Dz ita/ir ur urea , the Foxglov g p p , the Crom ' o mum cina/e Anlbr ircu: v u r w L ztb r cr ari . ell p ofi , lg ’ The Cel e ry Apzum gr a w olenr occurs near th e w E ilobium r oreum Simpson , Rose Willo herb p B r aco odium innatum n ear Salford , and the Grass yp p w to near Olney , here the limeston e come the sur e L otur tennis f e Swanbourn fac . has been ound n ar , C ar damine a mar a the Bitter Cress , the Club Rush '
Eleoc/Jarir acicu/a r ir th e C . a cuta , Sedges and l / m h r omur r ao morur C . artia a t e B e p , Grasses and olium ertucacf um L f near Wol verton . e The Thames district res mbles , to a consider e abl e xtent , the Ouse district , exc ept that a o f e portion the c halk scarpment is incl uded in it , o n which are found such plants as the Wood Vicia r lvatica w Sal 'via Vetch ( y ), the M eado Sage ( r atenrir w Galium l fuertr c p ), the Bedstra ( ry ) , the I ber ir a mar a t h e Or cbir Bittercress , Orchids m / r ab n ria cono rea a r a ida i H e a . py , p , etc The De dly e Atr o a B elladonna e e Nightshad ( p ), the H nban H or anm ni er ( y qy g ), several Fumarias and Milk 16 FLO RA
’ w Pol ala ox ter a orts yg yp , etc . , the Lady s Antb /[is Vu/ner aria e Fingers ( y ), the Cant rbury C am anula lomerata w Senecio Bell ( p g ), the Rag ort ( cam estr is As er ula c nancéica p ), the Squinancy Wort p y , ' - - H z b oa e is comosa th the Horse shoe Vetch ( A p ), e H eliantbemum C/Jamaecistus th e Rock Ros ( ), Roses R micrantba R ruoi inosa . , . g , etc . The hilly district o f Brill affords the Henban e ’ H osc amus ni er C no lossum y y g , the Hound s tongue y g
cinale R osa lauca R . s st la ofi , the Roses g and y y th e cultivated ground affords Crepis tar axacifoli a C biennis w Caucalis nodosa and . the aysides and a um etum arex vesicaria C r seg . C occurs near ' ' Wotton Underwood ; Sea um aasypbyl/uza ( Marsh Snake sh e ad Fritillaria M elea ris Gibbon ), the ( g ) e - n ar Aylesbury , the Fiddle dock near Long e C arex axillaris i Cr ndon , near Princes R sborough , ' C br sos lenz um o osit olium w R anun y p pp if at Bl edlo , cu/us ar wi or us Orr/sis la t olia p fl n ear Risborough , if C arex H ornscbucbiana e and n ar Wendover, ’ Alo ecur us ul fvus T /ya an ust o/ia C crastium p f , yp g b , uat m a i m /Ji n a icu S / x S it a a . q , , etc . , near Halton South Buckinghamshire is entirely in the Thames one drainage , portion being drained by the Coln e , w another by the Chess , hil e a third is drained by the W e—o r y , as i t is usually called, the Wycombe — brook and another by the main stream o f th e o f Thames . In South Bucks is the large area w e w the chal k formation , as el l as that cover d ith — more recent deposits bri ck earth , tertiary gravels , low- v etc . , the London clay and l evel gra els . The flora of the Chal k has already been alluded we e to, but may add to those plants alr ady mentioned as occurring in North B ucks , B 17 B UCKI NGHA M SHIR E
A ni/( irl vul ar is E ilobiuman usti olium Cardamine g g g p g f , bulbi er a Hieracium muroram H ellebor us ‘viridis I r is f , , fa tidissima H ericum montanum H Andr osa mum , yp , , H ellebor us a tidus D a bne M ez ereum C alamin f , p , and flsa ar fv olia p if , the latter being abundan t i n many f parts above Wycombe , Chal ont and Bulstrode . The extensive commons have in addition to many plants enumerated fo r North Bucks U lex naazcs C ascuta E itls mum Car ex oincr v‘ is Erica , p y , , Tetralix Salix re orts Actinocar as Ecbinodor as , p , p , r a nunculoides Pe /is Portula A ium inundatum , p , p , C crastium uatcrncllum Genista an lica M ille rana g , g , g R adiola Ccntunculus Salix r e airs Viola canina , , p , , Ornitlso us er asillus R anaac ulus ar ai orus p p p , p fl , e um tridentat m H scia bilum Scul cllar ia Hi raci u . , p , minor L ittorella M rio ls llum alter n or um , , y p y ifl , r ola minor E i actis alustris Py , pp p . Burnham B eeches affords a large number of species as C arduus r atensis N artoecium oss ra um suc h p , if g , ' Pedicularis s lvatica P. alustris Scir us ca s itosus y , p , p p , mul caulis R nclsos ora a D r osera i S. ti alb ratand , y p , ' n ia Vi la lus r s o o D . lo ol o a t f li z . , gif , p , etc Other
commons , such as Stok e Poges , Farnham , Drop more and Iver also have an inter e sting v e geta l um s bt ncum we Tr o i u erra T. tion , and find if , ' ar w nse T. str iatum Sa ina subulata L co odium , , g , y p ' inundaram M amba Pule ium Antbcmis nobili s M rio , g , , y ls llumalter ni olium C lsar a r a ilis N ita/la o aca N p y f , f g p , . exilis R anunculus L in ua Carex vesicar ia Sa lix fl , g , , mbi u r e airs S a a . w p , and . g The oods at Blac k Park , w Penn , Chesham , Wycombe , Marlo and o f Dropmore have a rich variety plants . Here R oamnus Fr an ula C arex have been found g ,
la vi ta . stri osa C e t canescens C . a C . la a , g , g , , 18 FL ORA
' Po onatum mult lor um Paris uadr olia L at/Jra a lyg if , g gf , S uamaria J uncoides For steri E mus euro a us g , , ly p th e Potentilla r ocumbens osotis r e (on chal k), p , M ’ ‘ ens Serr atula tinctor ia Paris uaar olia Atr o a p , , o b , p ' amz ne onlo era B elladonna an d C ard if . The meadows through which the Chess passes from Chesham to Chenies contain Polygonum minus B idens cernua Sa ina nodosa M imulu , , g , L an sdo i w Pedicular is g rfi , in great plenty, as ell as palustr is i n the low grounds near the Chal fonts E ilooium r oseum Scir us carieis Or clris lati olia are p , p , f , R osa systyla and by the Coln e I mpatiens biflor a is a e w most abundant plant . The m ado s n ear that '
C arex anzculata C . ar ado a stream have p , p x (very W M r io b llum alter ni or um rarely), hil e y p y fl is i n the f aZnantlse cr ocata f water itsel . is requent . Near
Po onum dumetor um P . mite Fumaria B ora i Iver lyg , , , Arabis er oliata C ar ea elata w p f and gro , and i er ita M entna r ubra and M . pp occur on th e higher w Diantlsus Ar mer ia ground near I ver H eath , here , Ger anium lucidum Or ooanclye R a um- enista , p g and ’ ai m mitbii L epi u S also may be seen . On the gravel pits about Taplow L actuca oirosa Jasione th e is frequent , and here occurs and beautiful grass Aperu Spisva- fuca ti Dipsacus pilosus w H ericumelodes L ittor ella gro s near Cliveden yp , ,
Scare/[ar ia minor . , etc at Dropmore Stacby s annua has been found in c orn fields n ear B omus ar ensis r e/ . Wycombe , at Littl e M issenden B secalinus e . is sometim s very abundant , as near Wycombe ; C l enopodium bybridum has been found B e ac onsfi e ld Peucedanum alustre at , and p occurs w L simacbia tb rs or a ith y y jfl at B ulstrode , the relics ’ probably o f the Duchess o f Portland s fondn ess I 9 B UCKINGHAM SH I RE
for Salvia Verbenaca Cam anula the science . , p R a unculus p occur n ear M edmenham , as does Astr a a us c b l os e e g l gly yp y l . The h aths and grav lly commons and woods give a rich variety o f e brambl s , etc . The woods of the county in the north consist usually of Oak ( Q uer cus pedunculata) with an w o f Pr anus s inosa e undergro th Sloe ( p ), the Wat r Viour num O ulus w Salix Elder ( p ), the Willo s ca rea S cinema S a urita p , . and . in damp places , or of Acer cam estr e occasional ly Mapl e ( p ), and Hazel C or lus A wllana w ( y ), here calcareous soil pre P r us M alus un dominates . The Crab ( y ) is not e w on . frequ nt , especially ood borders At Brickhill there are plantations of Pin e ( Pinus ' sylvestri s) and Larch (L arix europa a) and a fe w B etula older Pa a/us tremula Birch ( ) and Aspen ( p ). In the lower parts of the county the Black Poplar
Po ulus ni ra P. alaa ( p g ) is common , and and a es ns of c n ce are to be seen . Nobl e examples the U lmus cam estris fe w Wych Elm ( p ) occur, and in places are finer specimens of the Common Elm ( U lmus saris/a) to be seen than in the Thames e Acer cam estre w Vall y . The Mapl e ( p ) often gro s i nto fair -sized trees as about Moulsoe whil e the ’ ’ Tzlza euro a a Lime ( p ) is only a planted tree , as is ' ' Tzlza ar vi olia w its relation , p f , of hich a fine w Y e tree gro s at Westbury . On the chal k the w w is native and not uncommon , and here , too, ill be found good exampl es of the Holly ( I lex Agui ' olzum o f f ). A specially interesting feature the northern chal k escarpment is the Box ( B uxus semper r/irens) which above Eddle sborough and V w n ear Ellesborough , at el vet La n , is quite 20 FL O RA
s h no t naturali ed , if indeed, as some t ink , i t is f old native . H ere it seeds reely and som e fine t w specimens are o be seen . It is common kno ledge that Buckinghamshir e is famous for the w o f Beech , hich overspreads the southern slopes the Chilterns . Another characteristic tree o f the chal k is th e C ar inus B etalus w e Hornbeam ( p ), hich is v ry o f th e common , especially on the eastern border - e e county, and there are som e fair siz d tre s near
Be ac o nsfi e ld. Th e Juniper (Juniperus communis) is common on the escarpment as at Prin ces Risborough , Halton , on N a hill etc . , and it is also fou nd p Common and w w in Burnham Beeches , here, ho ever , the chal k is only covered with a thin deposit . There are good specimens o f Pyrus Aria in many situa n f tio s , and it is a common eature in hedges and - wood borders on the chal k . I n the north of the county the Cherry ( Pr unas ’ awum f f ) is the prevailing orm , bu t is o ten only naturalised ; but in the south the prevailing P C crasas w f species is . , hich is very requent , and in a native tree . There is a good specimen
Bulstrode Park . Isolated exampl es of the Servic e tree Pyr as ’ ' mznalzs tor . occur, as at Fulmer, etc At Black of Park there are extensive plantations Larch , w n C astanea sari s/a Pin e, and S eet Chest ut ( ), but the latter does not appear to be native . I n the w peaty meado s , as n ear Eton , Burnham B eeches , Alnus lutinosa w etc . , the Alder ( g ) occurs , hil e the Thames Vall ey shows splendid specimens o f the w S s alix aloa S . ra ili Po ulus ni ra P. Willo s , f g , p g , 2 1 BU CKl N G H AM SHI RE
o P canesc s al a . en w and , ith the planted Lombardy e of M ise lto e Vis Poplar . On som these the ( cum aloam f w ) is rather requent , as ell as occasion o n ally the Lime . The Ash (Fraxinus elatior ) is widely distributed but is better grown o n calcareous soil . 5 Fauna —O f of ( ) . the Fauna the county i t is unnecessary to speak in detail it is similar to that - of all the southern midland counties . In all the copses the nightingal e is found in great numbers odd w but often in irregularity, hil e the valleys o f the Ouse and the Thame are the haunts o f w f w many but not uncommon ater o l .
PU L A N AN D N D U S ES V . PO TI O I TRI
From the description given of the county of Buckingham it will be s e e n that its population is e c u u e w w the chiefly engag d in agri lt r . Its to ns , ith e e m are x c ption of High Wyco be and Slough , e th e d small , and , d pending as they do on tra e of th e are n c e ar surrounding rural districts , e ss ily affe e e f u ct d by th ir prosperity or ill ort ne . At the Census of 191 1 the population of th e county of Buckingham was of B uc k 2 82 of e of ingham 3 , Ayl sbury High Wycombe Th e population o f th e c 1 0 1 was 1 1 ounty in 9 in 83 , th e u f Agriculture , then , is main occ pation o the inhabitants from th e me adows of Olne y to e e e e of a e o f e the xt nsiv pastur s the V l Ayl sbury, and from the summits of the Chilt e rns to the 2 2
B UCKI NGHAM SHI RE
o wn their land . It was probably this knowl edge which caused French emigrants to come to Buck in h amshire f 1 g and Bed ordshire in 7 94. For the other cause we are referred to the residenc e o f Katherine of A ragon at Ampthill in and on the borders of Bedfordshire from 153 1 to 153 3 p e nd was ing her appeal to the Pope . She proficient o f w d in the art n eedle ork , and there is goo reason to suppose that she solaced herself nc c only by practising the art, but by spreading i t among the surrounding peasantry and until the ” 1 Cat tarns latter hal f of the 9th century Day, 2 th was November 5 , kept as the annual holiday of - e Histor o En lisb the lace mak rs . (Palliser, y f g
L ace th c d. 0 2 w on 1 . , 4 , 9 , p As time ent a knowledge of the art of lace - making extended of throughout the county Buckinghamshire , and Fo e wh o D e , used to travel over every part “ of A : o f England, says of yl esbury Many the poor here are employed in making lac e for edgings not much inferior to those of Flanders but it is some pleasure to us to observe that the English are not the onl y nation in the world which admires foreign manu factures above its own wh o , since the French , gave fashions to most ’ d An l e te rre nations , buy g or English laces and of N e wport Pagnell he says The town carries on a great trade in bone lace , and the same manufacture employs all neighbouring villages w 1 0 of hil e Don Manuel Gonzales , in 7 3 , speaks f its lace as littl e inferior to that o Flanders . It was practised ali ke by men and women , and in 180 1 out of the 12 7 5 i nhabitants of Hanslope 0 - of 80 were lace makers . I n the middle last 24 POPULAT I O N AND I NDUSTRI E S c e ntury the numbe r h ad declined to 500 ; to -day not mo re than 50 can be found wh o understand h ow e e wh o e the to mak lac , and practis art at e of e all . In s veral the larg r villages schools n 16 2 6 existed for its teaching . S o lo g ago as Sir Henry Borlas e founded and erected th e free school of Great Marlow for twe nty f r - four boys and o twenty four girls to knit , e e and u spin , and mak bon lace, tho gh as e to an industry it has d creased , this day it is a spe ci al if a minor industry of the county . a e h as e w Buckingh mshir lace is , and b en al ays , w two ffe n pillo lace , but there are kinds di ri g in patte rn though not in their manner of — e w manufacture bon or bobbin and pillo point . use w But this of the ord point is inaccurate , c e a e sin point l ce is , strictly speaking , lace mad with a ne e dle on a parchment pattern ; e ach w f u of kind is , ho ever , by no means di fic lt th e e n fl uc tua imitation , and d ma d for it is so ting as to preve nt it at the present time from being a large or continuously flourishing busi
. now two e u e ness But , as or thre cent ri s ago , w e the manner of orking is the sam , and in many parts of Buckinghamshire one may se e a woman with the large round pillow on h e r w the w th e e lap, to hich paper hereon patt rn of the work is drawn is mark e d out and e of w fastened by a numb r pins , round hich the thread is worked by q ui c kly moving bone o w b bbins . I t is an industry hich appeals little the e n to the youth of pr se t day . It has never been be tter describe d than by Cowper 2 5 BUCKINGHAM SH I RE with his singular power o f depicting the local life around him
Y on co a e wh o e a ve s at h e r own oo tt g r, w d r Pill ow and b obbi ns all h e r littl e store ; C on e n t ou me an an d c e e fu if n ot a t t h gh , h r l g y, Sh ufli in her t e a s a ou the ve on da g hr d b t li l g y, Just e arns a sc anty pittance and at n ight L e s o n se cu e h e r e a an d ock e i d w r , h rt p t light Sh e for h e r um e s e e b n a u e , h bl ph r y t r fit , H as e un e s an n and n o littl d r t di g, wit .
North o f the Chilterns there are still to be found quarries which have been used from very of w - w ancient times , such as that the ell kno n w w w e Portland stone at Hart ell , here a clay bet e n the stone and the Ke me ridge clay was obtained e now by the Romans for pott ry, and is used for bricks . But these are mere sporadic occupations w and give no character to the county, hich , in spite o f its l ength and differences of soil and scen ery, is thus singularly homogeneous . The — rearing o f large white ducks known as Ayl es — bury ducks is much practised in the farms and villages in the low- lying district to the north o f w o f the Chilterns , hil e in the vall eys to the south them , especially abou t Chesham and Wycombe , the cultivation o f watercress employs many persons .
M M U N C A N S VI . CO I TIO
a R oads — O f th e ( ) . roads most noticeabl e is the
wh e o n . main road ich nters the county its S E . d - w bor er near Littl e Brickhill , and runs north est 2 6 ROADS w f ard to Stony Strat ord, covering throughout its e distance the ancient Watling Street . From ast to west are also two modern roads which are ide nti cal with portions of the Upper and Lower Ick w w w w nield ays , hich ere ancient British high ays , of along the northern base the Chilterns , the former entering the county near Eddl e sborough w and leavi ng it at Bledlo . There is yet w another road , hich entering the county at Aston -w Clinton runs north est through Ayl esbury , and old e is the same as the Ak man Street . These highways have in former days been e w sometimes call d Roman ork , sometimes British , but there can be no doubt that they were abori gimal tracts which were i mproved and utilised by each succeeding generation wh e ther Roman o r w I c knield Saxon . This is obvious hen the Upper wa w for on e y is follo ed throughout its l ength , there sees h ow there must always have be e n a necessary road— raised above the marshes and mud o f the meadows of the val e and below th e steep slopes which mark the higher parts of th e of th e northern face Chilterns . No road is more e f d light ul , presenting at every turn extensive and w —ou on e th e agreeabl e vie s the hand, distant w on fields dotted ith villages and hedges , and the of other, the varying forms the uprising hills . A large number of the roads o f B uckinghamshire no w so - are call ed main roads , and under the con of f trol the Coun ty Council , though , in act , the distinction between main and district roads is by o f no means easy to define . The chief these roads is the main highway from London , which enters to h the county at Denham , and thence runs Hig 2 7 B UCK INGHAM SHIRE
Wycombe and through the ranges o f the Chilterns f o f R e d to Ox ord . At the top Hill , Denham , this road bifurcates , and another main road continues M isbo rn up the u e vall ey to Ayl esbury . From this w to n , in addition to the Bicester road and the or on e Leighton Buzzard Bedfordshire road, trun k - w road runs north east to Winslo , Buckingham and e w w Brackl ey, and anoth r est ards to Thame in
Oxfordshir e . The eastern and western portions of central Bucks are connected by a fine main road from Ayl esbu ry to Linslade (Leighton
Buzzard). Yet another important road runs nearly due east from Wolverton through Newport Pagnell and Emberton to Ol ney and thenc e to the Bedfordshire border near Lavendon o n e of the best roads in the county . The char acter of both the main and the district roads is fl o f largely in uenced by the range the Chilterns , north of it the highways are usually broad and w generally repaired ith granite, and especially in the extrem e north are as good as any roads in w o f England, immediately south ard the range they w flint w e are narro and y high ays , except in the cas two m of the ain roads already mentioned , and no systematic effort has yet been made to meet in creasing traffi c by i mprovements either in width or contour . Those wh o wish to cross th e Chilt e rns from b e e fu a a wh N . to S . should car l to t ke a ro d ich “ ” l e ads through one of the four gaps in th e se W e are . . hills . Th se , taking them from E to , “ ” h e e the t H rts gap , that is , opening through whi c h th e L ondon and North -We ste rn Railway “ n th e e w passes near Tri g ; W ndover gap, hich 2 8 RAI LWAYS AND CANALS has been used by th e Metropolitan Railway ; “ ” ’ th e w r gap in hich Chequer s Cou t stands , ’ and which is reached from Butler s Cross ; and “ the w the Risborough gap, through hich Great e Western Rail way passes from High Wycomb . h e th e T m . ascent fro N to S . by any of roads “ ” through the se gaps is easy ; the other roads t e across he hill s are st ep and fatiguing . The ’ u e e e road from B tl r s Cross to Gr at Missend n , w e w though by far the orst of th se high ays , is unquestionably the most picturesque . b R ailw a s and Canalr — Th e e t ( ) y . M tropoli an lw u Rai ay runs through the centre of the co nty, f e n rom its bord r near Chenies to Verney Junctio ,
v s . e ha ing a mall branch W to Brill . On the ast - w w is the London and North Western Rail ay , ith
e e e . the u e fl s v ral branc h s The W . of co nty is chi y se rved by th e Great We ste rn Railway and its e P d branche s . Another lin with connections to a dingtou and Marylebone is from D e nham to Prin ce s Risborough junction th e joint line of the Gre at
Western and Gre at Central Rail ways . It divides c e e th e at Prin s Risborough , one lin is then part of e e e e Gre at W st rn syst m to O xford , the oth r is part of the Gre at Ce ntral syste m and forms a direct c n w th e ommu ication ith Rugby and north . F rom ‘ Princes Risborough also a Gre at N e stern Bran c h e u of th e t runs to Ayl sb ry . A portion S ou h e e th e c u th W stern syst m is also in o nty , and in e — north is a bit of the Midland line for d e tail s of Th e n above se e map. Grand Ju ction Canal tra e e e we v rs s the ast and st of the county .
29 BUCKINGHAM SH I RE
N U T ES VI I . A TIQ I I
The County of Buckingham has no im e th e portant pr historic remains . To age of the Britons may perhaps be ascribe d some of the so - e e e call d camps , m r grassy mounds near s e e which are indication of rude ditch s . Of thes the be st known is th e striking e arth -work which ’ is popularly call e d Cymbeline s Mount or Kimbl e a e e C stl , clos to E llesborough , tradition having rashly connected it with the rule of King Cuno be linos u . I t is possible eno gh that this chief, whose headquarte rs were at Camulodunum ( Col che st e r ) but wh o also poss e sse d Ve rulamium (St A lbans) should have had a fortifie d post on the spurs of the Chilte rns which proj e ct northwards into the Vale of Aylesbury and dominate the e e e fe rtil fields at th ir fe e t . But to id ntify this so- calle d fort with a particular Chi eftain is to ve nture from s urmise to unfounde d ass e rtion of a fact . Of the Romano - British period which c on clud e d in the fifth ce ntury there are no im a e portant remains . Vill s at High Wycomb , L atime rs e and Hambl don , coins and vases dis at e e e covered th s places , at F nny S tratford and at r e e the a Weston Tu vill , indicat existence of Rom n c th e c u ivilisation in parts of o nty , though it was o ne of the thinner space s of Roman a Brit in . To the Romano - British age has also been ascribed the so- call e d pile dwe lling discovered at e th e 18 H dsor near bank s of the Thames in 95, 3 0
B U CKI NGHAM SHI RE
u e its church . It exhibits continuo s and reason d e e e d v lopment , and chang s both practical and artistic . If we endeavour to classify the Buckinghamshire e c hurches topographically, they may be introduc d w with the Olney group , hich , having in its centre e the E arly D e corate d church by the Ous , is formed w lie w fe w e by seve ral churches , hich ithin a mil s of e ach other in the north of the county, and Th e are ge ne rally dignified and important . most r n notable a e E mberton , Sherrington , Clifto w Reynes , and Lavendon . Some hat more to the south we come upon another grou p lying not far f w rom the Northamptonshire border, hich includes the fine Decorated churches of Han — slope and Milton Keynes the former on e of th e fe w w hich has a s pire , and thereby indicates fl of the in uenc e the Midland district . Another group is that whic h contains the churches i n the area between Buckingham on the north -west and o n - Bletchl ey the south east , and from the Ouse in the north to North Marston in the south . I t con sists o f small churches in which whatever was the w w o f original styl e , Perpendicular indo s marked and conspicuous character, have been largely and generally inserted . These details stamp this district with an arch itectural individuality which is emphasised by the fact that al most i n its centre we find the Perpendicular tower of Great ’ w e Hor ood, that in Maids Moreton clos to we th e B uckingham , have fin est Perpendicular t e n church in the county, and at Hillesden , not - w miles to the south est, another church in the same styl e not in ferior except for its tower to 3 2 ARCH ITECT URE
Maids Moreton . We may perhaps surmise that the influence of a single architect is visible i n all of these churches . The Val e Ayl esbury, that is sa f w e o n to y , the country rom Ste kl y to Wing the w e E . and to Marsh Gibbon and Chet od e and Hadd nham on the W . is mark ed by many admirabl e churches varied in character . Exc ept M aids Moreton and Hill esden they show in most cases archi tectural changes extending i o f e 1 1th over a long per od tim , from the to th e e nd of 1 r the 5th c entu y . Along the of on northern edge the Chilterns , the last spurs of we fi f l the hills , nd yet another group rom Ed es w on borough on the E . to Bledlo the W a lin e o f buildings interm ediate between the larger of o f churches the val e and centre the county , and the poorer buildings of southern B ucking e hamshire, but ev ry on e suggestive and interest of ing . To the W . the Wycombe Vall ey there are also a fe w churches on the heights of the of Chilterns , all them small and generally largely of f w constructed lint , bu t not anting in many e of e w d tails inter st , and hich , by their situation , deserve a separate division , and may conveni ently be cal led the West Chiltern group . Of the char ac te ristic s of o f the churches S . the high lin e o f th e we e e Chilterns have alr ady spok n . Of compl e te e xample s of any one of th e we ll re c ognised styl e s of me dimval English ar c hite cture e few —o f ther are . The chief are Norman , w o f th e Ste kl ey ; Early English , chancel at e w o f f if Ch t ode ; Decorated, the per ect , cold and e c o f w acad mic , hurch Olney, and a building hich gives a better idea o f th e fertility o f i magin ation C 3 3 BUCKI NGHAM SH IRE and weal th o f design which characterises Decor w o f ated ork , the church of Milton Keyn es ; e Perpendicular, Maids Moreton , Hill sden and
North Marston are the best exampl es . At the end of this summary of the arc hitec ture o f the county on e may note that the haml et o f w f S W o f Ga cott , a mil e and a hal to the . . Buck was a e o f ingham , the birthpl c Sir Gilbe rt S cott ( 18 1 1 of which at the time his fathe r h e ld th e e ua c e h perp t l uracy . S cott r garded imself as — scar c e l y a Buckinghamshire man clergym e n lik e — his father b e ing so much birds of passage but it woul d not be easy to find on e wh o was more e w c closely connected by parentag ith the ounty , fo r f was w of his ather born at Weston Under ood , w f was e 1 80 hich his grand ather curat in 7 . Th e f w e w h e ollo ing y ar he removed to Olney, here became the fri end of Cowper as he had been o f e w was John N ton . Gilbert Scott a singularly e l old impr ssionab e boy, and unquestionably the churches which were to be found i n th e villages about his home had a permanent in fl uence 0 11 his f e h e li e and car er . In early boyhood e wand red f w rom village to village ith his pencil , and in his R ecollections he has l eft a vivid d e scri ption o f his th e u f E E h an e l . c c w first visit to bea ti ul . at Chet ode . Th e in fl u e nce o f the architecture o f th e county was e w e f e 18 2 6 still pr sent h n he l e t his hom in , fo r w e w th e he ent to liv and study ith his uncl e , e L atime rs f Rev . Samu l King, at . Again , a ter the o f 18 1 e two conclusion his pupilage in 3 , he sp nt weeks at Gawcott studying and sk e tching the w c churches hich he ould reach . From that date was e e w f Scott r mov d by his ork rom the county, 34 ROOD SCRE EN S
was h e but it to the last in his thoughts , and found no gre ater pleasure than in he lping to re h e store the ch urches which e kn w so we ll . — 1 R oad Screens andC ar vin . Of wood ( ) g carving , — more e spe c ially of rood scre ens and e ve ry me di aeval church had some thing in the natu re o f a barrie r o r — screen betwe e n the chancel and th e nave there are e f e m the c e a fe w examples l t . Of th most noti ble e N w e H e are at Edl sborough , orth Cra l y and at ill s de n e u e w . The Edl sboro gh scr en , ith the stalls ac e e e e which are att h d to it , giv s us a perf ct impr s f th e e ae e e use sion o m di val chanc l . The univ rsal of the rood scre en s e e ms also to e xplain the purpose — of the hagioscope or th e squint -hol e as it is more e — w f e popularly call d hich is ound in some church s , e w e e giving a sid vie into the chanc l , enabling a p rson , whether an atte ndant or a membe r of the congr e ation se e e w was e g , to into the chanc l , hich hidd n e e by the rood scr n from the nave . Of other forms of d e signs in wood the re is one r e markable exampl e — - e s the pulpit and sounding board at E dl borough , which in abundanc e of de tail and delicacy of e x e cution may be ranked with the m ast e rpiece s w d v Th e of w w of oo car ing . oldest piece ood ork
E E . in the county is probably the carved . arch , w - a the c n ith dog tooth orn ment , in hurch at Upto . 2 M ur al Paintin s —I n h u e re ( ) g . several c rch s — mains of mural painti ngs exist some of which have e e e e — e b n rec ntly discover d as at Littl Kimble, a e e e de M ids Mor ton , Littl Horwood , L ittl Hamp n , e n e w G r at Hampde , Whitchurch , Bl dlo and Chal f e e th e e ont St Giles . Of th s most int resting are at e d e e e L ittl Hamp en . Th y are remarkabl as arly work s of art and as indicating the ge neral use of e a mural pictur s in the me diaeval church e s o f Engl nd . 3 5 BUCKI NGHAM SH IRE
onts — the of (3) F . The fonts in churches Buckinghamshire are of much arc ha ological and ar tistic of a e the importance . As indications the g of churches in which they are found th e y often are e e e of no little value , and in th ms lv s they are t r e xe cu in eresting from thei form , design , and w e e tion . The point hich is p rhaps most notic e th e e x e abl is istenc of many Norman fonts , e r a those at Ayl sbury , Monks Risborough , and G e t e e e u the a Kimbl , for instanc , hav s rvived ch nges th e v e e of religion , iol nc of iconoclasts and the e t c e f alt ra ions of ar hit ctural ashion . Though oftentime s some what rud e in execution the se Norman fonts show a powe r and a we alth of design whi c h appe al e d to men of more r e c e nt c au e e b e h e times , and s d th m to preserved w n the e r w was e e plain r No man ork entir ly d stroyed . o f a e th e t r c In fonts l t r date coun y is not so i h , but that at Le c khampste ad is o f gre at value and beauty . B r asses — e are (4) . A s r markable as the fonts the monume ntal brass e s which are to be found all e u n e the d e ov r B cki ghamshir , extending from mid l of 1 the of 16 e w e the 3th to end th c ntury, h n this e f o f e e w durabl orm m morial prevail d , a period hich comme nced and e nd e d with a singular abruptne ss the e a in Buckinghamshire as in r st of E ngl nd . We may be surprised to fi nd an art o f a some what e laborate kind so abundant in a poor seclud e d dis triet such as was the space of woodlands and valleys e th e whi c h e xte nd e d from th Chilterns to Colne . But we m ust reme mbe r that it was at no gre at e r h e ad ua1te rs distanc f om L ondon , the q of a e of w e w r be numb r artists in brass , hos o k is to 36 BRASS ES found in the country from the M etropolis to th e V e o f al Aylesbury . e The Bucks brass s are usually small , and com o f e c e memorate men no gr at social importan , but wh o seized the opportunity to l eave to post e rity e o wn or e e e o f e e th ir the lik n ss s their r lativ s , w wh o own unkno n Englishmen in their day, in a e e o f sequest r d val e life , passed the noisel ess tenor o f wa wh o to their y, but , thanks this art , have , e w o f f e by a som hat singular irony at , l eft to distant generations their e ffigies when those o f men wh o play e d a much more striking part have long dis appeared . But though the monumental brasses recal l th e names of men and women wh o would otherwis e hav e long ceased to be remembered e xc e pt i n old - musty parish registers and titl e deeds , they also remind us that oftentimes in the past o n e g e n eration cared very littl e for the memory o f that w hich had gon e before . The palimpsest brass is at onc e a memorial to the p e rson wh o is chronologically most lately portrayed u pon it , on of and is , the other hand evidence the small degree o f piety fo r the past i n the persons by w w s For w e hom it a ordered . h ther a palimpsest brass b e one which has had a figure drawn o n the r e vers e or blank side (li ke that at Denham church) so that wh e n placed on the tomb the original e fli for o r w e gy is hidden perhaps ever , h ther it be o n e which h as had the original design compl etely or partially destroyed , as in the d R 1 Brass to Sir Hanson , Vicar, 545, at ’ f of Chal ont St Peter s , by that the more recent e artist , it is in either case a curious instanc of some 3 7 BUCKI NGHA M SHI RE thing approaching to impi ety and want of filial ’ fe . e o f th e eli ng I t is , no doubt , an exampl artist s of c th e ingenuity , and probably also the scar ity of e e n c ssary metal , but it is perhaps most i nteresting as sh owingth e abse nc e ofre ve re nc e fo r th e monuments o f 16 th 1 th the past in the and 7 centuri es . An observation of the Buckinghamshire brasses shows the caus e of the decline of the art of the brass w w ork er in England as in other countries . To ards t h e middl e o f th e 16 th c e ntury ther e gr e w a desir e fo r a mor e realistic treatment of monu We se e i t 1n th e ments . colouring on the fine tom b ne un w c the of An , Co tess of War i k (d . in c e e e e c e hap l at Ch ni s , and in the r umb nt figure o f the girl reclining on her elbow as in repose in the e Brude n ell monumen t at Stoke M andevill . This tend e ncy gradually produc e d th e often hid e ous o f e exagge ration jacobean monu mental sculptur . N o w b e and then i t is to found in a brass , as i n Br e adsch awe . that at W ndover, to William , Gent 1 w 53 7 , and that at Tinge ick to Erasmus Williams , which are attempts at portraiture . A still more striking e xampl e of the pictori al treatm e nt o f brasses is to be noted i n the monu m e nt ( 1595) in Datch e t church to Richard of Hanbury, citizen , and goldsmith London , and w Al es , his ife . The plate is oblong, the man in a w e e w fe go n kn els at a desk , opposit to him his i l e w in a large ruff ; books i open bet een them . o n t h e This is a picture brass , and emphasises ’ o f w e w limitation the metal ork rs range, hose art was su ffi ci ent when men wer e satisfied with m e re e w or outlin d figures , ithout distinctive personal facial characteristics . 3 8
BUCK I NGHAM SHI RE
e s e all architectural interests , ind ed it is impos ibl to trave rse m any mile s of the country without n u e e findi g , often n xpectedly , som domestic buildi ng which shows us h o w our fore fathers i th e e a l ved . Nor should innumerabl cott ges built in th e 16th and 17th centuries be ove r at n t e w looked , o ce picturesque and comfor abl , arm i n w e e w h int r and cool in summ r , ith t eir heavily thatche d roofs and with thick walls crossed by w w w w e t u ood ork , hich ill y o tlast the productions
of th e d e r u . mo ern j r y b ilders A gain , the alms s e n hou es at Am rsham , Quainton, Wi g , Shenley and — — Sherrington we enu merate only a fe w are exampl es o f buildings a little more ambitious ’ not than the peasant s cottage , l ess in size but l ess i nteresting than the manor houses , as illustrations no t only of a form o f domestic architecture bu t a o f of social habits and customs , and of form reli ef in old age which at anyrate preserves n somethi g of the feeling of a home .
S IX . HI TORY
B uckinghamshire in th e British and the Romano “ British age was only a poo r pas toral and woodl and f ue f tract o land . Subseq ntly it ormed part of th e m e b ut the h Saxon Kingdo of M rcia , occupation of t e Te utonic rac e is e videnc e d only by the nome nclature o f w and v e e of many to ns illag s , t lling the ex ist e e e un nc of num rous comm ities . In Buckingham , A f e e e a ylesbury , Chal ont , D nham , taking th s pl c e s
. h as examples in a line from the N to the S . of t e 40 HI STO RY
e e ne - county , v ryo Anglo Saxon in its origin , we n a a e e have i dic tions of the g in q u stion . T h e devotion of th e Normans and the 1r imm e diat e successors to the Church is visibl e throughout the richest portions o f Buckingham s f of to hire , rom the valley the Ouse the valley o f o f e the Thames , the fragments Notl y and of e w Burnham Abbeys , the churches St kl ey and
Wing, are striking indications both of the religious z eal and of the flourishing state of the Norman w 12 h lando n ers during the t and 13th centuri es . But of the numerous religious houses before th e dissolution of the monasteri e s with which the was — Biddle sde n county studded , Lavendon , R e e e w — h avenston , Miss nd n , and Brad ell ardly a trac e remains . Buckinghamshire affords many illustrations of the amazing alte ration which was caus e d in the social and pr0prie tarial condition of E ngland by e n the Conquest . An xtraordi ary change of t h e w e w o n rship of its land follo ed this event . When William distribute d the estates of th e Saxon thanes among some of 1118 most notabl e w w follo ers , partly as private o ners and partly as of n ew guardians the order, the largest por o f to ff tions the county fell Walter Gi ard , to ’ - e William s half brother Odo, Bishop of Bay u x, I f C nstan e ff o o c . and to Geo rey, Bishop But remarkable as was the change both in the w e superior lando ners and in the syst m , i t had little effect on the lower grades of rural in
1 Wa e G ffa 8 mano s B s o o f Ba e ux 2 6 lt r i rd , 4 r ; i h p y , ; the B s o o f Cons ance 18 W am z -A nsculf 16 i h p t , ; illi Fit , ; M n Ea o o 1 M o C s n 12 e tc . rl rt , 3 il ri pi , , 4 1 BUCK I N GHAM SH I RE h Th abitants . e Sax on th ane was r e plac e d by th e r or e e Norman ba on knight , not n c ssarily by o ne h of t e fe w chief landowne rs but mo re often by me n who h h held from them , and w o be came t e fore e e e h e be fath rs of the h reditary g ntry , w o w re to s e e n th roughout th e county up to the be ginning o f th e
r . v e th e the last centu y But the ill in , bordar and f e t h e w i h ow ser remain d i n same position , ork ng, for of e ever, a Norman in place a Saxon mast r . 1 o f T hat in the 5th century the , people Buckinghamshire should b e deeply influenced by the teaching o f Wy c li ffe and o f his assistants is no t was surprising . This county at no great distance from the two centres from whi c h Wycliffe and his pre ach e rs started on their — w own journ eys Lutter orth , his living, and
own . Oxford , his University Ludgershall in we e Buckinghamshire , bet en Oxford and Ayl sbury, was a living which he obtain ed and exchanged for 1 6 8 Fillingham in 3 , but during the ti me that he held this preferment he seems to have been a no n- e of residential r ctor, Oxford being his place o f e abode . Still the mere tenure Ludg rshall would be su ffi ci ent to give Wycli ffe a peculiar e e int rest in Buckinghamshir , and to strengthen his influence among its landowne rs and its e he e e d wn e c e e r re peasantry aft r had s ttl d o in L i st shi , and among the dism al storie s which attach to th e town of A me rslram are thos e of the e x e cutions o f a e th e h e numerous L ollards . In the g of Stuarts t e sam — te nd e n c y to individual fre edom whe the r re ligious — or s e c ular is s e e n in th e adherence of th e majority the me n h e w of of Buckinghams ir , among hom e e a c ir Hampd n is immortal , and of thos in soci l 42 CO UNTY TITLE S c umstanc e s o f th e beneath them , to the cause e e e was b e f Parliam nt . H re and ther to ound a e chivalrous adherent of Charl s , as Sir Edmund Ve w e e e rney, hose charming charact r has b n por tra e d M emor ials o tbe Ver n Fa mi y in the f ey ly, x e wh o and in Sir Al e and r Denton , lost son and home by his preferenc e for th e Royalist cause . Ayl e sbury during the Civil War was more than ’ th e of once headquarters Essex s army, opposed e e f e f alik in position and r ligious e lings to Ox ord , ’ w e e w s e w h r the King s army a lying . N port e was Pagn ll , too, strongly garrison ed by the Parlia me ntarians was of e , and great strategic im portanc . H al f a c e ntury later Buckinghamshire produced e nthusiastic adherents to the cause of Georg e f s f was Fox , and rom Ayle bury to Chal ont there not a villag e in which we r e not to be found ste adfast supporte rs of Q uakerism willing to e e u suffe r s e vere pains and p nalti s for th e ir ca se . e of and e t e r of Of a lat r age , the politics l t s the 18th e are e century, memori s recall d not c e e of we only by the melancholy magnifi nc Sto , Be aconsfie ld e but by , Bulstrod , Dropmore and But th e s Stok e Poges . a sociations which be long to the se and other pl ac e s in mod e rn w are e e a times , and hich larg ly lit r ry , do not alte r th e main historica l charact e ri sti c s of uc n B ki ghamshire . Titles derived rom clsc C aunt —O f wh o f y . those have bor ne a titl e tak e n from th e county itself the e Th e first in point of tim are th e Giffards . a e e ff e and th e u e g d Walt r Gi ard , the fri nd co ns llor a the u - e of Willi m Conq eror , the standard b arer at was as e e n the Senlac , not, has b n ge erally assumed , 43 BUCKI NG HAM SH I RE
o f no first Earl Buckingham . The point is by w e was means clear, bu t it ould s em that this titl e e H e was a . giv n to his son , nother Wal ter f w wh o e ollo ed by his son , also Walter, di d in 1 16 was 4, and buried according to some accounts at Longuevill e i n France , according to others in h u the abbey which e had fo nded at Notl ey . 1 son o f In 3 7 7 Thomas Plantagen et , youngest w was o f Ed ard I I I . , created Earl Buckingham , was e and succ eded by H umphrey, his son . o f ff w of re Humphrey , Earl Sta ord , nephe the p e was of c ding, also called Earl Buckingham , and two others o f this line bore the titl e of Duk e o f
Buckingham . Perhaps the two best known w th e two holders of the titl e ere Villiers , the evil of c advisers the Stuart monar hs . George Villiers was 16 1 created Earl of Buckingham in 7 , mar 16 18 16 2 was quis in , and in 3 he created a duke . e on The titl e becam extinct the death of his son ,
f of . the equally famous avourite Charl es I I , in 16 8? It 1 1 e ffi e 7 3 John Sh ld , third E arl of Mul the a t e was grave , st tesman and man of le t rs , e e u n and cr at d D ke of Bucki gham Normanby, but the title in this family became e xti nct th on e d e ath of the s e cond duk e in 17 3 5. 18 c e t he e e e e t In the th ntury T mpl s , ss n ially e e e e e a Buckinghamshir family , b cam mor clos ly w th e u e e e associated ith co nty by titl . G org e e w - L ie uten Gr nville , Earl Templ , t ice L ord f e was r e 1 8 ant o I r land , c eat d in 7 4 Marquis u of Buckingham . His son became a d k e 1 2 2 was who im ru in 8 . It his son by his p was dence brought ruin on the family, and it 44 A RM S O F TH E COUNTY
18 8 w during his lifetime, in 4 , that the famous Sto e sal e of books and works of art took plac e . At h o f the deat his successor, the third duk e, a l ead 188 ing Conservative politician in his day, in 9, we the titl e became extinct , and the palace at Sto became a monument of magnificenc e that seems to have departed fo r ever . — The titl e o f Earl o f Buckinghamshire only a slight change i n the nomenclature— has been e n e 1 6 the born si c 7 4 by Hobarts , a Norfol k w e was e e family , h n John Bacon Hobart cr at d e th e de th e Earl of B uckinghamshir . On ath of third 18 2 th e and last Viscount Hampden in 4 , fifth Earl o f Buckinghamshire succeeded to the historic
Hampden estates . This seems to be the first con n e c tion o f the Hobarts with Buckinghamshire . The A rms o tlse C ount — w f y T he s an , the arms o f was o f Buckinghamshire , the family badge wi El eanor de Bohun . On her marriage th Thomas of Woo dstoc k of o f , Duk e Gloucester, youngest son w f h o . o w Ed ard I I I , it became that her husband , was f 1 created Earl o Buckingham in 3 7 7 . Their ff f daughter Ann e marri ed into the Sta ord amily , e ff was and her son , Humphr y Sta ord , created Duk e of 1 B uckingham in 444 . Through these dukes o f the Stafford family the swan became so associated with the shi re as to be adopted fo r f the county arms . The date o the actual appro riation p is uncertain , but i t must have been o f ff f during the ascendency the Sta ord amily, wh en they held the M anor o f Buckingham and e w 1 16 oth r estates , bet een the 4th and th centuries .
4 5 BUCKINGHA M SH I RE
' H rs ro arc a r. HA AC E S X . C R T R
a Statesmen — Of me n who w ( ) . , by ork for e e the State , have achi ved a plac in history , and wh o have also pass e d so much of thei r li fe in the county as to give them a right to be e nume rated among thos e wh o may properl y be w u e associated in history ith B ckinghamshir , t h e first is unque stio nably th e old warrior of e e a th e e the A rqu s and S nl c , comrad and th e a ff r adviser of Conqueror , W lter Gi a d , to whom fell no l e ss than forty - eight of o f th e the manors county , a numbe r o f w c we b e hi h , ho ver , distributed among his e e s r tain r . In the age of El1z ab eth we meet w1th two f eminent men , Arthur Grey , ourteenth Lord Grey 1 1 de Wilton , and Sir John Fortescu e ( 53 whose country homes were not far apart at Wh ad O fSir oh n — don and at Salden . J Fortescue the suc c e ssful , learned and abl e civil servant , the valu ed i w and trusty adv ser of Elizabeth , hose elaborate monument we may still see i n Mursley church w something is said here this place is described . was ff of who 1 8 2 Grey a di erent type man , , in 5 , was taken from a useful if obscure life at Whaddon to fill th e difficul t post of Lord Deputy was to of Ireland . He unable quel l the Desmond th e of two e e rebellion , and at end y ars Ir land was in a more unhappy state than when Gr e y was first set foot in it . Thus he as ready to quit the melancholy scen e as Elizabeth and h e r w f advisers ere anxious to supersede him , and rom the day when he return ed without reluctanc e 46
BUCKINGHAM SHI R E
was home among the Chilterns . He educated
first at Thame Grammar School , j ust outside the of was borders the county, and then he a student
o f . Magdal en College , Oxford Bu t every journey that he took to and from Thame and Oxford he passed through the meadows o f the Val e o r w w was w Ayl esbury, ith hich he as ell acquainted w of as with the oodlands the Chilterns . After he 16 1 w married , i n 9, Hampden settl ed do n at Great e Hampden , r presenting the n eighbouring littl e town o f Wendover i n the first three Parliaments o f Charles I in the Short Parliament (April and in the Long Parliament he was o ne
f . o the members for the county At Great Kimble , o n 16 a January morning in 3 5, he made his pro o f test against shi p money, and in respect the 2 0 3 e . tax on his state i n the parish of Stoke f M andevill e, there ensued the amous litigation which raised the question o f th e validity o f shi p out money . When the Civil War brok e Hamp den raised and took command of a regiment o f Buckinghamshire militia and though h e was wounded at Chalgrove Field i n Oxfordshir e and e was th e c at di d at Thame , he buried in chur h e c omme mo Great Hampd n . A small monument e e one ma e rat s John Hampd n , and y still r ad in dim characte rs th e ins c ription on th e pl ain tablet which h e wrote in memory of his wife ; whil e in th e s e clusion of the upland fields and of the be ech woods which surro und his h ome we are still e th u e e constantly r e mind d of e patriot sq ir . A ft r his de ath at th e ir home among th e Chilte rn Hills e e e a his desc ndants liv d for many gen r tions . To the age of th e R e be llion and th e Common 48 H I STO RICAL CHARACTE RS
u W wealth belongs the judicious B lstrode hitelock , a Buckinghamshire man not only by reason of his posses sion of th e Manor of F awley and his r e presentation of be Great Marlow in Parliament , but cause on his ’ mother s side h e was conne cte d with the old county l th e Bulstrode s of H u e fami y of edgerley B lstrod . we e w e Coming to a later time me t ith William P nn, wh o rathe r by his d e ath than his life is identifi e d with t h e was was county , for it not until he a young man that his connection with the S ocie ty of F rie nds brought him to th e . e e he e G ulie lma S rin e tt th e Chalfonts H r court d p g , u e H e was w e stepda ght r of I saac Pennington . , ho ev r , e 16 2 w e e marri d ( 7 ) at Chorley ood on the bord rs of H rts , w e and lived for a time at R ickmans orth (H rts), but he is buri e d with his wife in the burial gro und of th e F riends e e e w at Jordans , thr miles from the villag hich bears e di e e w his nam . No rect evidenc conn cts him ith the e of as e e P nns Penn , but he believed that he w desc nd d for in w c w e from them , the scription hi h he rot on his ’ father s monument in the church of S t Mary R e d ffe e was cli at Bristol stat s that he one of them . In no long time after Pe nn then appe ars the Dutch W e th e man , illiam B ntinck , E arl of Portland , friend W wh o and minister of illiam I I I . , made for himself an E nglish home at Bulstrode . A mong the statesme n wh o in the 18th century are clos e ly assoc iated with the county the most famous is Burke ( 17 3 0 H e had no ancestral connec tion with B uckinghamshire and be came poss e ss e d of the of Be aconsfie ld e estate Gregories , close to , aft r his n e n for v 1 6 8 seco d lectio Wendo er in 7 . But through his e now e e w hom he is ins parably associat d ith the county . F or more than a quarter of a c e ntury ( 176 8- 1797 ) he f th e u obtained rom rural quiet , the country occ pa n w e n e n tio s , into hich he ter d with si gular zest , D 49 BUCKI NGHAM SHIRE u nbounded satisfaction and enjoyment , by the side o f which i t would seem any pecuniary em barrassme n ts arising from his landed property appeared trivial . From the pecu niary poin t o f view there can be no doubt that the purchase o f was v Gregories by B urk e a mistake . It invol ed him not only i n financial difli c ultie s at th e o f w was commencemen t his o n ership , i t also a o f constant burden . The history the transaction n ow was is clear, and there is in it nothing that of th e discreditabl e to Burke . The cost estate was and o f this su m was l eft o n was off mortgage and not paid at his death . was 2 0 0 0 The remainder paid in cash , £ being ’ Burke s o wn mon e y and £6 0 0 0 an ad va nc e from o f w the M arquis Rockingham , a loan hich he
- e o n e . canc lled his d ath bed It is evident , too, that ’ the cost of k eeping u p Burke s B uckinghamshir e prop e rty was largely defrayed by loans from the fo r w same nobleman , hen Lord Roc kingham died there was no l ess a sum du e to him from his friend than the notes of hand fo r ’ w we Roc kin h am s hich re, by Lord g directions , ’ W e f o f d estroyed . ithou t the aid , th re ore , the statesman wh o was the l eader of the group which was w n o w kno n as the Rockingham Whigs , it seems certain that Burke would n ever have b e en abl e to purchase o r to live at the place with But which his name is so inseparably connected . if of was f the purchase Gregories , rom the point of w w vie of monetary prudenc e , rong, it had ’ u e e e e n was nusual recompe nses . Burk s t mp ram t o ne which e n abled him to forge t troubl e and disre gard details which would have hara ss e d a 50 H I STO R I CAL CHA RACTE RS
H e e te th e e e careful mind . d ligh d in pl asur s of th e e u e his country life . F rom tim of its p rchas ’ t u e t e e was t h e e r e ill B rke s d a h , G r gori s m mo abl re o f t e e n and me n of sort s at sm , politicians , te r e e n e let s . A t Gr gori s , Johnso and the Thral s the e nd f e e e 1 wh e staye d at o S pt mb r 7 7 4 , n
e f e e s v w r turning rom th ir W l h tour , a isit hich “ was c e d w e only onclud , says Mrs Piozzi , h n th e ge ne ral e l e c tion brok e up th e d e lightful soci e t y in which we had spe nt some time at ” Be aconsfie ld. We m ust not e also a group o f mod e rn stat e s me n wh o are quit e inse parab l e from th e county —th e r u e d e thi d D k of P ortlan , his n ighbour G re nvrlle and r Be ac onsfie ld Th e e L ord Lo d . Duk of Portland was not a man eithe r by talent o r a e S e e e e t u ch ract r p cially int r sting to post ri y, tho gh h e had more ability than some of his c ontem orarie s e was e e e p admitt d . It rath r to good t mp r and u e e e a j dicious common s ns , add d to high r nk , that h e owed his position as h e ad of th e Co alition i n r 1 8 h u h is e e e M ist y of 7 3 , and t o gh in lif th r was a c onstant conne ction be tween Bulstrod e and e ste th e u e e W stmin r , D k passing much of his tim his u e we c e th e on B ckinghamshire state , asso iat place rather with the last ye ars of his more fa e e e th e w mous pr d c ssor , first Earl , than ith his th e e long political life . On oth r hand , L ord e e wh o u e 2 Gr nvill , p rchased Dropmor in 1 7 9 , is not only a considerabl e historical fig ure but e e o n th e a e e impr ss d his individuality pl c . Gr n e who e e e m vill , had b n a me mb r for Buc k s fro 1 8 was e e e e 1 0 f 7 4 till he cr at d a p r in 79 , and rom the following ye ar throughout a life o f much 51 BUCKI NGHA M SHIRE political activity he never fo r a moment t e lin uish e d q his Dropmore sympathies . When he purchased the property it was a piece o f waste to - o n e o f land , it is day the places in England best clothed with coni ferous trees and flowering shrubs . His restl ess and ambitious brother, the o f w ff Marquis Buckingham , ould break o in the middl e of a political l e tter to te ll him h ow he was forwarding him many th ousands of young trees ; and towards the end of his li fe Grenvill e wrote interesting l etters to Lord Grey o n c of his plantations . Pitt and most politi ians ’ importanc e in G re nville s time were visitors at w Dropmore , hich must continue to recall the memory of a statesman whose propinquity to his great cousin has somewhat dwarfed him in history . was old w The elder Disraeli an man hen , in 18 2 f f of in 9, a ter a li e literary labour and social w t e rc ourse at Bloomsbury , he ent to live in the charming seclusion of the Manor House at w was e Bradenham , hich his hom till his death in 18 8 o f 4 , and it is as the beginning Benjamin ’ Dis raeli s connection that Bradenham with its e ue u pictur sq s rroundings is most interesting . Lord Beac onsfie ld was throughout his life in timate l w was y associated ith the county . I t the of his u e 8 2 place earliest str ggl s in his career . In 1 3 h e stood twice unsucc e ssfully for th e borough of 18 h e e e e e High Wycombe . In 3 7 succ ded in nt r of th e r for ing Parliament as one membe s Maidstone . But whe n his parliamentary position was assured h e e again turned his eyes to his hom county , and , 18 two h e o in 47 , years before succeeded L rd 52 H I STO R I CA L CHARA CTE RS
G e orge B e ntinck as the l e ad e r of the c ountry was e one of the e e for party , elect d m mb rs u n m e Th e ue e e B cki gha shir . constit ncy , ss ntially u o ld- e e — th e agric ltural and fashion d , Disra li last man in the world o ne would have s uppos e d to be — acce ptable to this e l e ctorate r e pre sente d for eight and twe nty ye ars till his accession to th e peer a e in 18 e o f g 7 5, and during that tim many his most s triking spee ches were addressed to Buc kinghamshire audie nces at Aylesbury and
Slough . I t was in th e quiet churchyard of Hugh e nd e n that by his o wn de sire Disraeli was burie d and i n e e w we e not W stminster A bb y , here , ho v r muc h opinions may di ffe r of a Statesman whose t e a c hing certainly appe ars at present to be a stronge r influe n c e on his countryme n than that h e was e of any of his contemporaries , entitl d to w a monument and a tomb . Disraeli had kno n H ughe nden since his youth ; ne gotiations for its e e e 18 8 purchas last d for a long tim , but in 4 , after the of f e e th e w e death his ather , he b cam o n r of this now e e e o f w are famous estat . Disra li had non hat ’ e he call d the country gentleman s tastes , but had that fine sense which finds an enjoyme nt partly s ensuous and partly inte lle ctual in th e aspect o f the country , in its colour and its stillness , in its e old vari ty, and its spaciousness , in its buildings e e and its historic associations . A ll thes charact r istic s we re to be fo und within a fe w mile s of ’ e 3 Disra li home . F rom Burke to Hampden , from H ampde n to Wycliffe and from Wycliffe to th e r ount e th e Norman Barons , the y evidenc d for the sh e w e th e mation of Engli peopl , hil in 53 BUCKINGHAM SHI RE secl ud e d vall eys and among the im m e nse beech woods and on th e steep e scarpments o f the Chil terns one met with a d e lightful seri e s o f f 18 landscapes . Thus , rom 39 until his death , Buckinghamshire Occ upi e d the same kind o f place ’ o f i n Disraeli s life as i t did in that Burk e , and H ughenden was to hi m t h e same r e stful country home that Gregories was to the statesman to whom he is so remarkabl e a contrast . e M n o L tters — we e ( ) e f e . When turn to thos whose association with the county entitles them to be r e garded as bel onging to i t in the eyes o f r wh o e poste ity, and have achi ved a permanent o f e plac e i n the history English literatur , we o f w w e ln think at once El ood , hos — ge n uo us memorials Toe History of Tbomas — Elwood is one o f the most delightful personal e stories in the language . His mor formal and pol emical compositions have l ong ceased to be o f val ue , but his autobiography remains a charming of and simple delineation a fin e character, and a o f of t e descri ption phases political , social and li ious f 1 g li e in the 7th century, no l ess valuabl e than th e diaries o f P e pys and Evelyn and the letters o f Horace Wal pole . Looking back to an earlier age we may please ourselves with the thought that Hooker ( 1553 as he tended his sh e e pin th e bleak pastur e s between Drayton Beauchamp and the Chilt e rn was f w Hills , already contemplating his amous ork on . wh o for Ecclesiastical Polity Burke , so long founda h ome ma i n Buckinghamshire, y be ranked a e me n of mong statesm n and letters , and of him we e have alr ady spoken . But the main import 54
BUCK INGHA M SH I RE
o f we e e w poplars Olney, presently m t ith Cowper ( 17 3 1 whose genius was so w suited to his surroundings , and , lastly, at Marlo , d th e o f ami st charming scenery the Thames , ’ we gain a glimpse o f a quiet space i n Shell ey s th e o f tumultuous career, days his summer o f 18 task 17 . Of these poets Gray and w th e no t Co per are undoubtedly most local , in w o r e e a narro popular s ns , but because their delicat e and sensitiv e natures were inevitably influenced by their surroundings , by the charac ter o f the locality and by the p e opl e w e among whom they lived . Gray ould n ver have written his Elegy if he had not fe l t the o f we associations Stoke church , of its grey to r, w e i ts ancient elms , and its pensive beauty, hil the reflections of many musing walks along the hill sides which overlook the vall ey o f the Thames and on the commons o f Stok e and Farnham are coll ected i n the Ode on tlse D i stant Pr ospect o Eton C olle e for f g , ever uniting Eton and the woodland lanes of Buckinghamshire with
Gray . e was no t f Ther a natural eature around Olney , w f wh o not a person hom he met day a ter day, did not insensibly influence the mind o f Cowper . H e was inspired by, and i n his poetry pictures , w fe ith astonishing fidelity, the scenery and the li o f of w th e Olney and Weston Under ood , yet of considerabl e volume his verse, the applicability of his descriptions to many parts of England for the scenery of the valley of the Ouse is some — what that o f all meadow valleys has made him appear l ess local than Gray . 56 M EN OF L ETTE RS
w e w e Milton , ith his broad g nius , ould hav written L ycidas wh e th e r he were in a country r w hamlet o a busy to n . Wall e r liv e d a great d e al at Beac o nsfie ld during w many years , but the charming poem hich begins
G o o ve R ose , l ly , Te h e r a as e s h e r me an d me ll th t w t ti , T a n ow sh e kn o s h t w , %V e n I e se m e h e r to e e h r bl th , w a d fan h m t e H o sw ee t n s e see s o h .
might j ust as we ll have be e n thought o f at St
Germains as among the Buckinghamshire uplands . ’ N o t a single lin e of Wall er s poetry shows t h e slightest sign o f resul ting from lifelong surround ’ n I n R evolt o Islam e e i gs . Shelley s f ther is littl to — remind us of the plac e s where it was writte n the tranquil re ach e s of th e Thame s and th e pleasant — shades of th e Q uarry woods ex cept from time to e e of th e e tim some sugg stion summer life on riv r , as when th e sunbe ams chase the shadows over the me adows and the poplars flutter in the seclude d ac w e and w be b k at rs . Gray Co per alone must c u e e his e the two ac o nt d , ach in s parate manner , e o f c w e ma po ts Bu kinghamshire , and ith th m it y we n ll be co tent . In the Victorian Age Buckinghamshire is closely associated with th e life and work o f — Grote ( 1794 He began to live for o f — at in 18 8 part the year East Burnham 3 , and it was her e that his History of Greece was w u was largely ritten . His ho se near Farnham 57 BUCKI NGHAM SH I RE
he r r e c a H R oyal , and app op iat ly lled it istory Hut . 18 1 u o ut o f th e e e But in 5 he b ilt , proc ds of his
a u e . H e re h e e l 18 history, a sm ll ho s liv d ti l 57 , whe n it was sold and enlarge d ; it is no w c all e d u E ast B rnham Park . DESCRIPTI ON OF PLACES I N BUCKING HAMSH I RE ARRANGED A L PHA CA L L Y BET I .
The follo wmg abbre viati on s are use d in sp e ak ing o f archi ' te c tural s e s 1n e ar to c th e divrsrons in Pa ke r s tyl , r g d whi h r I ntr oduct ion to Gotlrzc A r clz itecture h ave b ee n foll o we d = — O N N orman i n c l udi ng th e e arl y an d l ate peri o d s A . - = w r 10 0 1 1 E E. Ea En i s th e s 2 e a s o f h c h 5 7 5. . rly gl h , fir t 5 y r - man A . D 1 1 12 2 n c u e th e c an e o f s e f om th e N or . . i l d h g tyl r , 7 5 7 = - = D De c orate d A 1) 12 2 1 P Pe r e n dicular A . O . , 7 3 7 7 . p , 1 - 1 Th e s n 0 af e a c u c s o s a in 3 7 7 547 . ig ( ) t r h r h h w th t 1 - w s a e The s ance s f om the 90 2 3 it a h abitu lly k pt ope n . di t r ’ a th e ne w G e a Vv ste rn ne to O xfo n ow st ti on s on r t e li rd ,
1 0 e n u are ve n . ( 9 3) b i g b ilt , gi
Addin ton e Edinton e - w g (Dom sday, ) Winslo V and m. f erney Junction , 3 3 ; footpath rom
e e . V rn y Junction , m Practically consists of t h e fe w church , the Manor House and a w o n e cottages . The chief manor, hich at time passed through such we ll - known Buckingham f R ome n e ls th e M ol ns shire amilies as the and y , 16 e o f th e in 3 5 cam into the possession Busbys , w f 18 12 in hose amily it remained till . Addington now o f Manor is the property Lord Addington . The first baron of that ti tle was so created in 8 old 1 87 . The Manor House long ago dis e was app ared , and the present house built in 18 f w - w 57 rom a design by the ell kno n architect , w c Hard i k . 59 BUCKINGHAM SHI RE
— The c hur c h partly re b rrilt 1858 has c e 2 e and we e hanc l , nave , aisl s , S . porch , a st rn we but e e of th e r to r , ther is littl o iginal building now e Th e a u d l ft situation , lmost in the gro n s
a u . the of A ddington M nor , is delightf l Note old stock s inside th e privat e grounds of the Manor c los e to th e urc o f th e e 1 1 ch h . A copy Prim r of 54 found in th e c h urc h is no w k e pt at th e rectory e adjoining th church . Adstocé 2 — (Padbury Station , This is a an c e th e r ther attra tiv village to the N . of road w e e are e from Winslo to Padbury . Th r som picturesq ue thatche d cottage s not far from th e c w a e u hurch , hich is a ch rming littl b ilding , Th e w we e . . ith W . to r , nave and chanc l S w 12 th - e w of door ay has good c ntury ork , and is e e of e simpl e but e ffe ctive d sign . Not work sam on w a the 1 - we period N . door ay , lso 5th century to r e e a w th e arch . The mod rn corb l he ds , on hich e th e t e sts are we inn r portion of chancel arch , ll e e e th e . oak e e th e x cut d , S have l av s and acorns , e e e Th e w w of N . vin leav s and grap s . P . indo s th e e . nave are striking , but the tracery rath r clumsy e 1 the w w Not also ( ) P . font , hich is octagonal ith — a rose on e ach pa ne l the bas e is heavy ; ( 2 ) the e of th e u w c h e e e op n panels p lpit , into hi h av b n i nse rted the re mains o f the an c i e nt rood scre e n ; ( 3) the date 1597 cut into cross beam above the w w . E . indo the w t he da On S . porch is a sundial , ith te 1 8 1 5 . l ele u m — a A 2 . y ( B ckingham , 3 ) ( Domesd y, — A ch e lai) is a fair - size d vill age ple asantly situate d of a w w N E almost on the top hill , ith good vie s to . 6 0 ADSTOCK—AM E RSHA M
u e e with the ch rch in the c ntre . This is quit a
e w e w and . larg building , ith chanc l , nave , to er S
was 18 . porch . It rebuilt in 54 m r am t C C A monde A e sb Me . w ( and . . Rail ay), g — sham as it was called L e yland ( 153 3) wrote of it as H agmonde sham alias H ome rsh am r w is a typical small rural bo ough , of hich th e re are several on the southe rn slopes of the e 16 2 Chilt rn Hills . F rom 4 to the Reform A ct of 183 2 this little town re g ularly re turne d t wo e e e m mb rs to Parliam nt , among whom may e e 16 2 - 0 - 1 be not d E dmund Wall r , 7 4 4 , and e e 16 6 was f m th e e Alg rnon Sidn y, 5 . I t ro b gin ning of the 181h century wholly in th e pock e ts th e e a 1 0 we e of Drak f mily, and in 7 5 there r e 1 0 e not e only som 3 vot rs . Time has chang d e e e Am rsham . There is still one long str t w w e e through hich a broad high ay passes , bord r d by sobe r re d brick house s of the 1 7 th and 18th - u of centuries , and quaint gabled b ildings e e a e th e n an arli r g . At S . or L o don end th e e u e is Mark t Hall , b ilt by Sir William Drak 16 8 2 w in , on hich are his arms . The Grammar w 16 2 e S chool endo ed in 4 by D r Chalm rs , f s e a o wa . Canon Windsor , on E sid of m in stree t : a ne w building has lately be e n ere ct e d the w Th e e 16 outside to n . almshous s built in 57 e th e e of are inter sting . On W . sid the main e th e e nd ou e u stre t , at Aylesbury , y ent r thro gh a low archway opposite some pollard e d tre e s into a small quadrangle round which the lo w e the r th e six buildings are group d , si x doo s for w — e u e e poor idows a little harbour of r f g , v ry sug 6 1 BUCKI NGHAM SH I RE
e stive e g both socially and archit cturally . Amer sham was in fact at once a rural and urban sommunity among the pleasant meadows i n the M isbo urn e valley with beech woods extending all over the adjoining hills . o f The churc h St Mary, a large flint building, w ith nave , aisles, small transepts , chancels , and large monumental room of t h e Drak e family
e . w enter d through N door i n chancel , is ith o ut architectural i nterest . There are a number
f . o f e c e e A . monum nts , in luding three r li s by R e e e e Bacon , mark d by grace and f ling , to W . Drak e 1 6 e e 18 10 th e di d 7 9 , to T . T . Drak di d , and to 6 18 1 . Rev . C . T . Drak e died They are i n vivid contrast to the Jacob e an and Georgian e w w are monum nts , hich are ithout any beauty but vigorous and realistic . Note i n chancel the
Curwe n 16 6 on . w monument 3 , N all , and the e fli ie s of Brude n e ll Aliano ra brass g Henry and , his w f 1 0 th e w i e , 43 ; on S . all the Bent monument , 1 6 to 7 3 , and the stri king littl e brass John Drak e, 16 2 cfli 3 . Ben eath this gy and inscription are these q uaint lin es
’ H ad h e e Iiv d to be a man
T s n c h ad o n but t o a s an hi i h gr w p , N o w is h e e past all fe are o f p ain e ’ T e nn t h e in w re si o wi sh im h e re aga e . h Ve we but th e way by wC we e c ome ’ ’ ’ T o sa ee s e s a s s at ome h w l y h b t th t fir t h .
r e are e On the no th wall of N . aisl monum ntal e de e 1 E e brass s to John la Penn , 537 , and lizab th , w e 1 2 e his if , 5 1, also to Thomas Carbon l and e w e 1 8 1 o n th e E lizab th , his if , 4 3 and 4 39, and 6 2
ASCOTT—ASTON AB BOT S
w of e e e f o f W . all sam aisl the brass figy a c e 1 0 . ivilian (h ad lost), 4 5 Th e wh o are e a e Drakes , so often comm mor t d in the c u o wn th e ro ert and u ofShardo h rch, still p p y ho se l e w e th e e e o s , hich is strikingly plac d on hillsid , a littl N W f r h am J n th e d u e the o A me s . oa e to . . , eld st a ght r e e f To tlrill o f Shardoloe s e e and h ir ss o W . ( ld st by th e wa o f - e e e y thirty thr children), marri d , about 16 0 c e of Esh e r was t h e e 5, F ran s Drake . This b gin n f f e ing o the B uckinghamshi re family o th e Drak s . A scott see ( Wing) . bendo IV I As n a ( L . ( W tton . and } m ) is o n o ne of th e high e st points whi c h ris e out of th e e Val of Aylesbury . The church is at the th e f th e e c e are summit , roo s of thatch d ottag s u e e u S e e cl st r d ro nd and be low it to th e . ; on v ry side is a wid e prospe ct of rich and pl e asant country h e t land . T ch urch has be e n untouch e d by h e e re o ld e w e a w w e u r sto r , p s r m in hich , ho ev r gly, e n us th e 18 e n u a e r mi d of th c t ry . It has a ch nc l , e l e . ow we . e e nav , S aisl and W . to r Not a block d
2 th - ce u e E E 1 wa . . nt ry door y , and a singl light w w e D e w and w c w . indo , also som . indo s , on N all ’ o f th e th e ff l urbe c k chancel , e igy , in marble , of a u u e knight in chain armo r nd r a Dec . canopy . A sble Gr een an e c a a u y is c lesi stical p rish , abo t 3 m . N E f e a . . o w e . as Ch sh m , ith a mod rn church It w e 186 e Farnr e t he form d in 9. Grov , about a mil to
. c w was a S . E of this hurch , has a barn hich origin lly a me diaer al domestic building d e fe nd e d by a wall e and doubl moat . A ston Abbots A e m — e a ( yl sbury, 5 . ) D om sd y, Estone s the e e e n e f , s cond nam b i g add d rom its h aving be e n th e propert y of the A bbe y of S t 03 BUCKI NGHAM SHI RE
a e s Albans for sever l hundr d years , is a mall e th e e villag half a mile to W . of the Ayl sbury e Th e 0 was and L ighton Road . church ( ) e 186 -6 6 w e 1 r stored in 5 . The to er , lat 5th e v c ntury, is noticeable , ha ing a large square e turret at S . E . angl . Aston Clinton u m We n ve ( Aylesb ry , 33 . , do r , W e S . 3% m . ) is an important villag . . of one it is A ston Clinton House , of the nume rous posse ssions of the Rothschild family t e the in his district , on the sit of old u Manor Ho se . The church is a large building u w in a spacio s churchyard , hich is attractive its e e from sh lt ring fringe of fine elms . The D e c a e lofty . ch ncel is the b st feature in the w t o e church , hich has also w aisl s and
w . se are W . to er . The Dec dilia remark th e w ably ornate , as is piscina in N . all , with two fi gure s at each of the upper corners . Th e pillars betwe en nave and aisles are e alternately round d and octagonal , but this part of the building is spoilt by the numbe r and want of harmony in the windows of the
S . aisle . ' Aston Sana ord G C f (Haddenham . . and 1 is -of- -wa v the m . ) a small out the y illage in s e e meadow of the Tham vall y to the S . of w Haddenham . I t has only a small church ( ith w se a chancel , nave and bell turret) hich ems to have been re built in the 13th c e ntury . The place obtained its second name from he f f wh o t amily of Sand ord , possessed the Manor at the e nd of the 12 th century .
Astwood w . (Ne port Pagnell , 53 m ) is the 6 4 A STON CLI NTON— AYLE SBU RY
in most easterly village of the county . I t lies a e w e mix d agricultural district , and is ithout int rest . 0 n e The restored church ( ) has chancel , ave, S . aisl and
we . e 1n e W . to r The details are mix d charact r , of e rs various periods and not not worthy . The font E . w w . E . ith a plain bo l supported on four circular shafts 111 Chivnale Note brasses S . aisle , E . end , Thomas w 1 and his first and second ife , 53
A lesbur . E l e sb ur . . y y (A . S g g), (G W Rail w wa . . . y, L . N W and M et Rail ay), is an w was o n e of ancient to n , and the strongest British fortresses which fel l to the Saxons in 1 57 . At a later date it becam e famous through w w its connection ith three holy omen , St Editha Edbur and St g, daughters of a M ercian princ e , O sith of and their niece St . At the tim e the Domesday survey the manor of Ale sb e rie w 12 0 belonged to the Cro n , but , i n 4, Ki ng John of — granted it to Fitz Piers , Earl Essex later i t we B otel ers f nt to the , and by emal e descent came of wh o to Thomas Bullen , father Ann e Bol eyn , K - - Sir oh n w n t . w in law sold it to J Bald in , , hose son , 1 Robert Pac kington , came into possession in 545, and his descendants continu ed to hold it till 180 2 Pac kin tons . The g sold the manor to the of wh o 18 8 Marquis Buckingham , held it till 4 . Duri ng the ci vil wars the town became a parlia was for mentary stronghold, and a time the o f x headquarters Esse , and more than one vain was attempt made by the Royalists to seize it . The town stands on a slight eminenc e in the w rich val e hich bears the same name, and spreads f o ut f old itsel rom an market square, the S . side of which 1s formed by th e County Hall and N ew E 6 5 BUCKI NGHAM SH I RE
O ne t wo old u Corn E x change . or ho ses may be e e e s en her or there , such as thos facing the church to the S . The church of S t Mary (0) is built partly on the of an e fine site anci nt , probably Saxon , church . It is a u e of th e 1 u was cr ciform structur 5th cent ry, and e 18 0 e complet ly restored in 5 by Sir Gilb rt S cott . th e u e E E On whole it m st be regarded chi fly as . . in E E r e th e e e fine we . cha acter . Not on xt rior the st . w E E e door ay , in the S . porch the . . arcad s , and
w . e e the P . door ay to S trans pt . The int rior, which has all the spacious but rathe r cold characte r E E e of e of . . architectur , is full archit ctural interest, and pre s e nts a di ffere nt appe aranc e to what it must e e e for d n the have born b fore its r storation , uri g Commonwealth arche s we re block e d up and othe r u e e acts of disfig re ment p rpetrated . The chanc l w e E E w fe w e w w . ( ith mod rn tripl t indo ) is . ith a as are e w w e later additions , also the arch s , ith at r rims e - e to bas s and dog tooth ornament on E . sid of S . e u f of e we trans pt , the beautif l tri orium c ntral to r , the w . arch , niche and piscina on E . all of N e e e th e n trans pt (at pr sent used as a v stry), arcadi g he e e w w . t in nav and one indo in S aisle . In chap l s e t o 1 h - e ff of N . ai l are w 3 t c ntury stone co ins D e e c . in a doubl . niche and a piscina on E e u f N the wall . A b a ti ul font ( . ) stands in south The 1 th e e e e aisle . north vestry ( 5 c ntury) is nt r d e o n one o f the from the N . trans pt , and original doors is still to be se e n a remarkabl e . lock turned by a winch key ; above this is a u e small room with a curio s old fir place . e L e e w Th e monum nt to L ady , ife of Sir h e e e L e e 1 8 t . H nry , 5 4 , in N trans pt is a fine 66 AY LESBU RY— BARTON HA RTSHO RN
L e e de exampl e of E lizabe than sculpture . Lady is i t d e e h e r p c e kn ling , behind is a girl in the same e t wo w h the attitud , infants in s addling clot es lie near , inscription d e scribing her virtues and life shows h o w ge ne ral had be come th e heroic and archaic verse e e e w Faerie ueen which w gen rally associat ith the Q . This monument was brought from th e drsused uare ndo n e church at Q ; n ar it , in a recess , is an ff re al abaster e igy of a knight in a coat of mail , ’ e f th e n move d from the sit o Grey Friars Mo astery . e e e a th e The Pr b ndal Hous st nds to the W . of c was for e t the chur hyard . It som ime property of John Wil k e s ( 17 2 7 - 17 97) through his w e w e marriage ith Mary M ad , hose fath r , a we of was w e althy tradesman L ondon, its o n r . Th e marriage was an unhappy o ne for Mrs was e me m Wilkes , but through it Wilkes lected be r 1 for the borough in 757 . L ord Westbury,
e s M . P wa . then Mr Beth ll , at one time for u 1 6 0 1 was 1 . Aylesb ry , as John L yly in 593 and ’ Th e King s Head Hote l contains a fine 1 5th e u c nt ry room . The County Museum in Church e Str et is worth a visit . The haml e t of Walton is now a suburb of w - e the to n S . of the market plac , and has a small e u mod rn ch rch . e A the e e e N ar ylesbury, first Point to Point St pl e ia was 18 Wadde s chas England run in 3 5, from don Windmill to a fi e ld j ust below Ayl e sbury ’ se e w e B cbaes o church . F or a description F o l r s f Old C ountr i e y L f .
a /1 i e » B r ton H a rts 0m nm re n 1 . ( F Statio , 3 m ) is a me re haml e t on the borde rs of the county e x e lo - n a clos to O fordshir among w lyi g p sture s . 6 7 BUCKI NGHAM SHI RE
The church is small and unimpo rtant ; most s e part are mod rn . B eacba m ton r p (Wolve ton , L ondon and North — e e w m. e W st rn Rail ay , 4 ) Domesday , Bech n — th e N W stone lies close to the Ouse on . . border the n a e a as the of cou ty . The vill g is sm ll , is
e e . church , a good deal r stor d — Th e monume nt to Sir Simon B e ne tt the bust — of a man in a wig and lace cravat wh o di e d in 16 1 was e 12 8 3 , oddly nough not erected until
e e d . Th e w w y ars aft r his eath glass in the E . indo e e e is a m morial of S amu l Wilberforc , Bishop of f O x ord (d . A r e e a b ass in N . aisle comm morat s e li m Bawd n 16 0 0 ne e o . y (blacksmith), , and in S aisl , e w 16 1 1 A l s Bald yn , . e now B achampton Hall , the Hall Farm , stands the e u was ulle d w close to Ous , but m ch of it p do n the t e e e a in 18 h c ntury . A mong oth r d t ils an oak e e n u a w e pan ll d ba q eting h ll , hich is r ached by a fi ne e e the carv d oak staircase , still r mains , and in w w e o ld a e indo s is som st in d glass . B e s eld W and O R I acon G G . . fi ( . . . Station , m — This large village is striking from th e spacious of e e e th e ness its stre ts , sp cially main street , which is formed by the L ondon and O xford h igh u e road . Its sit ation on the top of a high tabl land a e e r Beac o nsfie ld re re dds to its bre zy charact . p
- 18 e . t h e . e c e sents an th century villag At S ntran , V the are e V rlton on L ondon road , the gat s of w e e the of Park , hich xt nds for gm . along side the road . Th e th e e of a church in centr the vill ge , is a - e e e e w h large , flint cov r d , unint r sting building, hic 68
BEACHAM PTO N— BEACO NSFI ELD was completely restore d in 1869. Inte rnally it has e u no details worthy of notic , tho gh the chancel w e E E . . arch indicat s an . . origin On the S all is a a e e in e of simple oval m rbl tabl t m mory Burke , his
- wife and his much love d son Richard . The simplicity and historic value of this h omely monument has be e n e w we - n e u e som hat disturbed by a ll inte tion d , but q it u e 18 8 th e incongruo s , memorial erect d in 9 . In c e ntral aisl e of the nave is a fine brass containing th e e of of White s his w and figur s John Warren Farm , ife childre n an interesting exampl e of 17th c u w e e w ent ry brass ork . A fine incis d ston , ith the u e of w e to fig r s a man and a oman , a monum nt Thomas Wall e r and his wife D orothy has e th e be e n almost entirely cov re d by organ .
th e w a 1 - e c e th e A gainst N . all st nds a 7th c ntury h st , of w the w panels hich contain paintings , and in N . all of e e e — 1 h the chanc l is a rec ss d altar tomb 5t century . th e w a e e o f On N . all is a t bl t in m mory e L e e 1 2 w u Rob rt , Gentleman , 57 , ith some q aint e w and pl asing lines , of hich the beginning runs
L e t n o n cause th e a e t o u a e thi g h rt q ll , L au nch e out the Boo e au e u th e sa e t , h l pp ill Put from th e e art hly sh oore An d at th e l e ngth th ou sh alt obt aine U n o th e Po a s a t e ma ne ffor e ve mo e t rt th t h ll i r r . — The tomb of Edmund Waller ( 16 0 5- 16 87) see — th e c u Introduction , p . 55 is conspicuous in h rch e w e n ul yard und r a alnut tre . I t is si g arly ugly, and the exagge rat e d e ulogies which are e ngrave d on it are in mark e d contrast to the unadorne d marbl e ’ w was uffi e u e e e hich s ci nt for B rk . Wall r s hous , W f but S . o e Hall Barn, stands to the . the villag , is scar c e ly visibl e from the road ; the pre s e nt hous e 1 1 2 ( 7 ) stands on the site of that built by the poet . 69 BUCKI NGHAM SHI RE
e the e On the S . W . sid of church is the R ctory w was House (not the Rectory), hich restored
1 0 1. was u or 1 0 0 in 9 I t beg n in about 5 , and was 1 e e for completed in 54 3 . The hous serv d a - A u time as a sub priory to the gustinian A bbey , e 12 6 establish d in 6 at Burnham . I t is an ex ce lle nt e th e e e e exampl of archit ctur of its tim , e Th e and has three sides forming a quadrangl . e basement storey is construct d entirely of brick , w e e glazed ith chequered patt rns ; the upper stor y, w e of hich lofty gables and dorm rs break the roofs , is built of large timbers closely spaced and
e e w e the . plast r d bet e n . To N side is attached e w - the principal staircas , ithin a semi cylindrical — turre t of timbe r a curious and picture sque fe ature of e e the d sign . The amount of timber us d in the building is surprisi ng ; the floors we re f e s ormed of normous plank , and the step to the floors and of the stair of massive block s e e roughly shaped with the axe . Dark n d passages r e w - r w w are f am d ith solid tree t unks , hich ere e w also us d for partitions , here the builder of our day would consider thin boarding to be sufficient . ’ Th e e sit of Butler s Court or Gregories , once ’ e no Burke s hom , can longer be visited , for it now e e has been built ov r . Gregori s stood about a quarter of a mile from the road be tween Beacons w t th e e fie ld and the rail ay s ation, on l ft going from fie ld was w 18 1 a ons . Be c The house burnt do n in 3 . and Beaconsfie ld see A s to Burke , Introduction, P 49 B iddlesden » m (Brackley , O x fordshire , 33 . ; 6 th e Buckingham , m . ) is on Northamptonshire 70 BIDDL ESDEN — B I ERTON W N . was one border in the . of the county . I t at e f for was time a plac o importance , here a Ciste rcian Priory found e d in 1 14 7 by E rnald de 1 12 Basco . Remains of the Priory existed in 7 , was e a a but it d molished about fifteen ye rs l ter , and th e house of Biddle sde n Park stands on its s The now a ite . Gothic church , too , has lso dis and u Biddle sde n — u appeared , a b ilding in P ark b ilt in the 18th c e ntury and once used as a private — r chape l now s e v e s as a parish church . Bier on e u n t . ( Ayl sb ry , 13 m ) is a straggli g village ne arly half a mile long on eith er side of th e main road from A yl e sbury to L e ighton u e n ta e are B zzard . Among mod r bric k cot g s still to be found some picturesque old build
s. e th e ing Not especially a cottage near church , t c th e w e s anding ba k from road , ith a gard n Th e t th c in front . house nex t o e hurch h as s e s de ome pictur sque old gables on the S . i . The church of 14th century is cruciform e se e we having nav , chancel , tran pts and c ntral to r . Th e w w P e indo s are mostly poor . , but ther e two - D e c w w are som fair light . indo s in e a w e s and ither aisle . Intern lly , ho ev r, the ize of height the building is striking , the central tower be ing supported by four l ofty col umns f e - il e ac d by three half rounded p lars . The d tails be e are two rw most to not d the Dec . doo ays
the . e w e e in S trans pt , ith laborat cusps and finials , and the font , an excellent example of w l t wo w plain N . ork . There are a so ell e n h e e of pr served ic s on S . sid church , one n w havi g small columns . On the S . all of chance l is a small but e ffe ctive Jacobean monu 7 1 BUCKI NGHAM SHI RE me nt to Samuel Boss e d e picting t wo w e e e figures , a man and his if kne ling at a d sk , and below them six child ren in cots ; seven others e e are b hind th m . B ledlow e 1 e e w th e (villag , mil Bl dlo Station) is most western of th e village s which stand on th e th e e one o f th e northern spurs of Chilt rns , and most attractive . I t is charmingly place d just above the low- lying meadows which stre tch the e e across Tham Vall y to Haddenham . A e e e e larg , straggling villag shaded by lms ; b hind o f d it rises Wain Hill , the end it all woodlan , the rest bare down . A t the Domesday surve y Ble de lau (name u be n - e tho ght to A glo Saxon , m aning Bloody was e e e F ield or Hill ) Manor poss ss d by Rob rt , n th e e E arl of Morto , and in reign of H nry
was e e . Th e V I . grant d to Eton Colleg w e e t o e church ith nav , chanc l , w aisl s ,
we . and W . to r, is a most interesting building
E . w w E E . e re are The indo is . , and th e s oth r indication , such as the piscina , that show that th e chanc e l was built d uring the e e e tim that this style pr vail d . In the body of t D h e e c . w w one church are indo s , of four e e e Th e lights in S . wall is sp cially notic able . the e e n — w pillars of nav are inter sti g round , ith Th e good but rather roughly carved foliage . towe r s e e ms to be of same age as chanc e l . 3 w th e e e e Note N . font , ith cabl ornam nt ; abov w e e are this the bo l is larg , flut d , and at the head e re bold orname nts of l e ave s in mouldings . Th
t o e . Th e are w la rge niches in S . aisl screen is
e . fine mod rn . On the N side of chancel is a 7 2 BLEDLOW— BOARSTALL
B A e 1 2 H e i . . brass to W lliam Hern , . , r ctor , 5 5 e e are is in full Eucharistic ve stments . Th r te e a f of in re sting r m ins o mural paintings , that St
e a e th e . Christoph r in N . isl is best B ledlow Rid e h e w u o n g is a aml t , ith a ch rch th e f th e d e summit o ri g . B letchle v e e n w y is a country illag , but is b st k o n as an important jun c tion o n the L ondon and
- 3 e w v . North W stern Rail ay, the illage being 4 m h e t and t . o f from the sta ion , church 3 m . to E - e we e t h e u nd e village . B t n ch rch a station li s Th e Bletchl e y Park . church stands on high u e e w two e s gro nd , and is of som siz , ith nave , aisl e e the N . aisl e xt nding whole length of the church — e w r P w a e chanc l and W . to e , . , ith pinn cl s and e Th e w . w turr t S . door ay has good Norman ork , e e are e e e t th e D e t and th r s v ral D ec . d ails . In Wil on N — e E. e e a c Chap l , . , is an alabast r monum nt re um — be nt e ffigy to Richard L ord Gre y de Wilton e o n w e e (di d and the N . all of chanc l notic th e e e e e w r markabl engrav d portrait on copp r , ith — c urious surroundings a sk e l e ton shove lli ng earth to e t — f e D 16 16 c o D. a grave , . Thos . Spark , . , . Bl e tchley Manor was owne d by Walter Giffard th e e of th e D e e in r ign William I I . and by Gr ys of e e of R oe sia e o f e Wilton , d sc ndants , sist r Walt r ff e of e th e Gi ard , s cond E arl Buckinghamshir , till e y ar 16 0 3 . B oar sta ll e m 1 2 (Tham , 7 . ; O xford , m . ) lies in th e hilly and wood e d district on the bord e r of f e e u O x ordshir . Boarstall is a pleasant x c rsion f 1 e rom Brill ( 3 m . E ) . The picturesqu and e w w e e now massiv gate ay ith mbattl d turrets , is th e e of only r mains Boarstall H ouse . B oarstall 73 BUCKINGHAM SHI RE or Borrestalle in ancient times lay within the of Be rnwood w important Forest , hich began near
Brill and extended into Oxfordshire . According to a l egend, picturesque enough in itself bu t w quite ithout foundation , the name is derived f f of one wh o w rom a eat forestry by Nigel , sle a famous boar and presented the h e ad to Edward w the Confessor . The name , ho ever, cl early comes from some local circu mstance ; possibly the w was B ur h stalle o f original ord g . The mansion 1 12 w Boarstall seems to have been built in 3 , hen Sir John de H andlo received the royal permission to fortify and embattl e his house— “ M uro de e t fir r t m ll old petra calce ma e e ke e are . An print depicts the place m 1695 surrounded on — three sides by a moat the ex i sting gateway i n f — w ront behind i t the house , i th formal gardens o n of and alleys either side , and in the rear all w w Th e the meado s , ith horses and cattle . present paved approach across the moat was made 1 w in 7 3 5, but the great gate ay enabl es us to picture for ourselves Boarstall i n days gone by . w Boarstall , being intermediate bet een Oxford and was o f Aylesbu ry, some importance during the
Civil War . Garrisoned by the Royalist forces was in the first instance , i t evacuated by them in 16 was 44. I t subsequently retaken by the n f Royalists u der Colonel Gage , and rom that time f l o th o f until it surrendered to Fair ax , on the Th e 16 6 was . Jun e 4 , it constantly besieged
of . remains B oarstal l House , at the E end of the village , still testify to its strength , and are the most suggestive relics of the great Civil War w . hich are l eft in Buckinghamshire The church, 74
— ' B RA D EN H A M C H U R C H S U L I H BOAR STALL—BRADE NHAM
18 18 A e e ntir e ly rebuilt in by Sir John ubr y, is u e witho t int rest . ou e End see B rn ( Wooburn) . B oo eney is a hamlet in the parish of B urn 1 2 th - ham , and has a small church of century e n origin with details of later dat , standi g among the h a n e lms near T ames . It has chancel and ave e e e e e and a b ll turr t . Not the colour d fragm nts of s e e s e u e alaba t r figur preserv d nd r glass .
B ra den/Jam 1 » is West Wycombe , 3 m . ) a VI ln unique littl e lage , secluded , charming and
. E in on N . t e rest g by associations . It is the of side the vall ey, a short distance from the main road which runs from High Wycombe to Prince ’s w Risborough , from hich a lan e l eads to an oval green . On the N . side old and picturesque t o cottages gi ve it a pleasant homely ai r . At the p, w separated only by the garden all , are the church and the M anor House ; behind are the beeches w and firs on the hillside , beyond hich extend the f h N a hill tur and heat er and fir trees of p Common . The short tower of the church is shaded by large
fir trees . At the edge of the green are stately stone w w pillars and old iron ork , hence a straight w al k leads up to the M anor House . The church w is quite a small building, ith nave , chancel , W .
. . w fin tower and S porch The S . door ay is a e
of l . w specimen ear y N ork . The outer arch rests on hal f round engaged shafts with rudely scul ptured capitals . There is a massive lintel rest o n one w ing a smaller , carved ith the cabl e orna two di ments , supported by small brackets rece ng two w to the jambs . There are note orthy mon u s one H on 16 8 ment , to the . Charles West 4) and 7 5 BUCKI NGHAM SH I RE
e see the other to Isaac Disra li ( Introduction , p . R e de b e rd Note also the brass to Richard , rector, 1 2 1 Brade n dam 5 . is so i ntimately associated with — the Disraelis with the last years of Isaac Disra e li f and the youth o Benjamin Disra e li . The Manor House was tenanted by Isaac Disraeli from 182 9 18 8 was until his death in 4 , and it on the pl easant common s and among the beechwoods o f the adjoining hills that in Benjamin Disraeli grew up the love of the coun ty of Buckinghamshire and o f w u the Chiltern Hills , hic h he retained thro gh who d o out his life . Those have En ymi n on their shel ves can perceive h ow deeply Bradenham ’ was Be aconsfie ld s for fixed in Lord memory , under the name o f H urstl e y he describes in the beginning of the el eventh chapter the home o f w his boyhood , hil e here and there in succeed ing pages one can note a sketch of some feature of o f the surrounding landscap e . The manor Brad e nham appears to have been the only manor i n Bucks which after the Conquest remained o f w e in the possession i ts Saxon o n r, and w was e S artl ey, as his name , must hav built the w o f original N . church , the remarkabl e door ay which has just been desc ribed . W B radwell S. of e is a parish olv rton , divided by the Ouse . The church (Wol verton E E e 2 was . S tation , m . ) originally . , having be n e e the 1 e h as found e d som tim in 3th c ntury . I t D e Th e u e o f c . w w fairly good indo s . pp r part we h as e w e - e a to r b en taken do n . Not nail h d w w ornament on E . indo . N B ra w ll w e u ne w ew d e , ith a mod rn ch rch , is a N E of we ecclesiastical district . . Brad ll , and 76
BUCKINGHAM SHI RE
e the 1 th e e chanc l of 3 c ntury. The arch s ofthe nave h e are e . ur t 16 all point d D ing Civil War, in 4 3 , e e we e e e e E ss x and the Parliam ntaryarmy r station d h r . L ittle B r icfbill e ( F nny Stratford , L ondon and N W w 2 e e Bo w . . Rail ay, m . ) com s n xt to Bric k
. I t e e hill is attractiv l y situat d , but has no particular e o f u of obj ct interest . The ch rch is various dates
1 - f and contains a small circular 3th century ont . The re are R oman re mains along the Watling Stree t road towards F enny Stratford . B r ll 2 m n a Me t i . o . , also station Br nch w 1 m —a e Rail ay, . ) village in a r markable position , c e th e 6 e ov ring flat summit of a high hill ( 94 f et). the u f Around , counties of B ckingham and Ox ord are e e are outstr tched , and to the S . the Chilt rn H ills w a outlined to the vie . This natural form tion e a a w xpl ins the import nce of Brill in the past , hile e - e e e it has mad it to day a mod st h alth r sort . No traces o f th e Royal Palace which onc e stood here can no w be se e n : it was the occa sioual re sid e nc e of E dward th e Confe ssor and th e u was Bernwood Norman kings . Sit ated as it in F orest it appears to have be en one of the i r u e u th e favo rit h nting boxes . At D omesday u Brunhe lle s rvey Brill ( ), including Boarstall , ’ Kings e y and R adnage is described as the King s a 1 1 was M nor . F rom 3 3 7 to 553 the Manor in the posse ssion of Sir John de Molyns and his e a the r d scend nts , Hungerfo ds and Hastings . At the n e e comme cem nt of the Civil War Charl s I . placed troops at Brill to prote ct O xford from the Parliamentary force s of Buckinghamshi re ; it was e u e f o f e vac at d a ter the fall R ading . It has e e e e ntir ly lost all its glory, and is a larg , dull villag 7 8 LITTL E BRICKHI LL—BUCKI NGHA M
The with scarcely any feature of special interest . 1 0 1 w u w church , restored in 9 , is a ide b ilding ith e ] u 1 12 0 two e chanc and nave built abo t , large aisl s l Th e u and o . w W tower . best feat res are the w th e 1 th Norman work in the N . door ay , and 7 e u of th e e c nt ry roof chanc l . h e S W e T e . Manor H ous at the . end of the villag , b e e e n y the road to Tham , is a pictur squ and otice a e in 16 e ble old house , remod lled late the th c ntury . li ton e 2 B r ou w . g (N port Pagnell , 3 m ) is a small village on the main road from Woburn Sands to e e Th e w on N wport Pagn ll . church , hich stands h w e e w th e W igh ground , ith an ext nsive vi to . , is u are l a small b ilding . The detail s not particu arly
e e . t o e notic abl Within the church are w old d sk s , ’ to which are faste ned by chains Jewe l s A D efe nc e of of n n the Apologie the Church of E gland , A no , ’ ” e h e w and E rasmus s Comm ntary . T se ere c e 16 2 th e in pla d in the church in 3 . Note also t r s in f e e t . . w o e g paintings on N and S alls nav , the w Virgin ith Infant Christ , a Doom , St Helena e the and St G orge and Dragon . B rie fing/1am ( L ondon and North - W e stern R ail wa n th e u as th e y) gives its ame to co nty , and w made capital whe n th e kingdom was divide d into shire s by e 886 rt -two e e r King Alfr d in . Thi y years lat r w hea of E dmund the E lder lying with his army at Buck i ng u e ham d ring his advances against the Danes . A ft r the ff e of Conquest Walter Gi ard , creat d Earl Buck n 10 0 e i gham in 7 , poss ssed the manor, and members of this family continue d th e paramount lordship till e a e e of w H nry VI I I . seize d it fter the x cution Ed ard ff e mof Sta ord , the last Duk of Buckingha this family . In this same r e ign th e assize s were remove d to r w e Aylesbu y , and the to n sank into unimportanc . 79 BUCK INGHA M SH I RE
D uring the Civil Wars th e Corporation took th e e w was e R oyalist sid , but the to n n ver garrisoned , and sh e ltered Royalists and Parliame ntarians alter nate l . 1 2 fire e w y In 7 5 a d stroyed much of the to n . A t the pres ent time Buckingham is chi e fly in te re sting as a good exampl e of the county town of th e e and e of a e u for thirti s fifti s l st c nt ry , it do e s e e and e a not incr as in size , it r mains in appear nce th e a e e e a e e s m from decad to d c d , and to some xte nt its prospe rity rises or falls with the proprietorship e e are old of Stowe . Th r various houses such as e e e th e e u Castle Hous in W st Str et , but Mark t Sq are ” n “ and the old Bull Ri g are the best bits . Th e on church , finely placed a height at the W . end w of the to n , is a tiresome, heavy modern Gothic 1 - 8 1 if building of the year 7 7 7 , and it be con traste d with some of the fin e Gothic churches i n the villages it is curious to observe the differ ence in the resul t o f tr e atment in the me diaaval ffi and the modern church , di cul t to describe but very perceptibl e . ’ The St John s Royal Latin School , founded by
w . Ed ard VI , is still in existence under modern conditions , though the building has been altered . w w was Note a good N . door ay, hich once part o f 12 a chantry founded in the th century, and subsequently absorbed in the school . d B uck/an m. (Ayl esbury, 3% ; Wendover, 3% lo w- m . ) is a prosperous village in the lying o f fields close to the northern limit the Chilterns , w and forms , ith Drayton Beauchamp and Aston o f Clinton , a closely connected group villages . w o f The church , hich is i n the centre the village , has been much restored . The nave is separated by 80
BUCKLAND— BU LSTR ODE PARK
e with n o n N . circular pi rs , octago al capitals , from Th Th e w 1s . e c s e . an ai l . to er arch E E best ar hi u al e the w e e w te ct r d tail is S . door ay (r stor d), hich we n e e e n has a flo r or am nt , and a dripston t rmi ating me drae al e n w t o v . in w h ads The font is Norma , ith e n th e fine w flut e d ornam nt o bowl , and is a ork . ’ B ulstr ode Par k has one gate on G e rrard s Cross see e o n f Common ( ), anoth r the Ox ord road , e e Th e and a third on the Hedg rl y road . park o f about 800 acres slopes in a semi - circl e f w o n o f rom the house , hich stands the site a e was much old r building, and built by the Duke 186 2 e o f Somerset in . This property b longed Bulstrode s was w to the , then it o n ed by Judge 6 86 ff wh o 1 . Je reys , rebuilt the house in ’ was to I II s It subsequ ently sold William . f o f avourite minister, William Bentinck , first Earl
- wh o Portland , constantly lived here from the ti me of his retirement from active political life to his h 1 0 o f deat in 7 9. In the days the second duke , o f Bulstrode became, u nder the rul e the Duchess e (Lady Margaret Cavendish Harl ey), a social c ntre we o f b e autiful as ll as a store house things . Here was the rare Portland o r Barberini vase whi c h is “ ” now th e i n British M useum . Bulstrode, w 1 1 rote M rs Montagu in 7 4 , is the most c saw o f charming pla e I ever . In the time th e third Du ke o f Portland ( 17 3 8- 180 9) it h e came an important political mansion . Statesmen d e an . politicians gath red here First , the Rock of wh t h e d e ingham Whigs , ich party thir duk was an important memb e r ; and then the fri ends o f th e c uri ous Coalition Ministry ( 17 83) o f Fox o f w t h e e was and North , hich Duk the nominal F 8 1 BUCKINGHAM SH I RE
w e e R e vo lu head and , nex t, Tories , h n the Fr nch t e the h e e e the ion brok W ig party, mor specially aft r ’ e e of 1 Duke b cam one Pitt s administration m 7 94 , m the o f e 180 - 180 and last years his lif , from 7 9, w e n e th e o f u L e h , aft r fall his neighbo r ord Gr n ’ e m h e e e e e vill s govern ent , again b cam Prim Minist r , commencing that s e ri e s of Tory administrations which was not brok e n till L ord Gr e y came into e e th e e f of 18 2 offic and carri d R orm Bill 3 . Th e property passe d by purchase in 18 14 to th e e o f e se se e Duk Som r t , and sub qu ntly on his e 188 e d ath , in 5, to Sir John Ramsd n . A n e e important plat au camp, oval in shap and e 2 2 c be e e o f th e r cov ring a res , is to s n in S . E . pa k . B ur n/J m m u a e e e 1 w . a 1 . (Taplo , 3 ; B rnh m B ch s , m ) is a large village on the e dge o f th e Thames valle y ; e e r e e e a or the gr at part of it , mor sp ci lly the upper In the we th e N E. . . part, is modern lo r part of main stre et are some old buildings of probably th e 16 th u e w th e cent ry , and in the stre t hich runs from it to E e nd are e e for e . ofthe church s veral oth rs , the anci nt the a e was e u part of vill g group d abo t the church . Thi s (0) is o ne of the large st flint c hurch e s in the nt and a e two c a e cou y, has a n v , aisles , h nc l and north E e n of e Th w we d . e transept , ith a to r at . S . aisl a e u e th e e w w most import nt f at r s are larg D . indo s — w w five th e w d the . w E indo having lights , W . in o w e o f ce e e has flo ing trac r y rather noti abl d sign , w n w th e e ia while the i do in N . trans pt is an f e D n he e e e e o . u o t r structiv sp cim n lat , j st v ge P t he u o f transition to . , straight m llions running right to the he ad of the window give it th e stiff he e of th e ness o f t later style . The N . arch s
re e h . e nave a Norman , a rud arc at E end of S . aisl 82
BUCKI NGHAM SHI RE
‘ e e b e th e S . of the e s sit of th a y is 31m . to villag acros the o n the - th e Bath Road , right hand side of road to h e Dorne y . T e re mains ar now built up with farm — but ve E E e w buildings se ral . . d tails , door ays and w w be e e th e - e indo s , can s en . Not Chapter Hous doorway and th e re markabl e wall with tile d coping whi c h surrounds the fi e ld which adjoins th e house . Burnham is a convenie nt point from which to
. w th e explore the B eeches Follo right or E . road at the to p o f the main street avoiding the first se c o nd whic h turn to the l eft , but taking the , l eads ’
. e nd o f e to the S the Lord M ayor s Driv . East B ur n/6a m is a straggling collection o f
. o f houses on the E side Burnham Beeches .
see . Grote , the historian ( Introduction , p 57) e t e onc lived a East Burnham H ous . Mrs Grote gives a description o f East Burnham in h e r C ollected Pa er s p (London M urray, B ur nbam B eecbes (to th e cottage and farm ’ o f m . w . at S end Lord M ayor s Drive , Taplo , 4 , 1 i 2 . Slo u l and Burnham B eeches Station 2 m g 3 mil e s - stric tl s eak 4 ,f ) Burnham Beeches form , y p o f w rn w ing, a piec e oodland hich are comprised the uni que old trees which are the historic beeches . Popularly it consists not only o f the beec hes and o f w o f oodland but the adjoining commons , and may be said to be the area of ground purchased by the Corporation o f the City of London in
1880 now . , and dedicated to the public use w The beeches gro on undulating ground, having
u . o n the E . East B rnham Common They can b e reached from any o f th e be fore -mentioned I f f w for stations . coming rom Taplo make see if a e e a n Burnham ( ), from Burnh m B ches St tio 84
BUCKI NGHAM SHI RE
of w o f r un none hich are any credibility . Fo qu e stionably these trees were pollarded to supply o f f e Th e o f f crops u l . history the English orests shows the val ue which was attached to the fu el from the forests both by lords and adjoining in Th e as habitants . beech w seldom pollarded ; it was w w to f e e allo ed to gro a lo ty and shap ly tre , w w - w of and then cut holly do n , the beech oods e Buc ks being cropped at r gular intervals . It is e f s certain , ther ore , that some time in their exi t ence the tr e es must have been pollarded by an w e w e individual o n r, hos successors must have w to allo ed them remain in the same state, lopping - O f th e ir n e w grown limbs from time to time . w e their age nothing can b e said ith c rtainty . For years they have been in a state o f ve ry slow o f w decay . In the ordinary course natural gro th the tre e s could hardly have reached their full size of under a couple centuries , but it is long since so im ro they attain ed their prime , that it is not p babl e that th ey were saplings not many years f a ter the Conquest . Wh e n Gray used to wander among th e m th e y ff f to - probably di ered little rom their state day, fo r writing to Horac e Walpol e in 17 37 he t e lls h ow val e and hill are cov e r e d with most vener — e e e abl e beeches that , lik most other anci nt peopl are always dreaming out their old stori es to th e ” winds . The N ; part o f th e Beeches beyond Victoria e w w and Halse Drives is chi fly young oodland, ith old a an occasional pollarded beech , and forms secluded and delightful rambling ground .
C alverton . (Wolverton Station , 3 m ) is on 86 B U RN H A M B EEC H ES
BUCK I NGHA M SHI R E
’ me for e c a e Milton s ho som months . Milton m to to e th e ue in Chalfont scape plag L ondon , and “ ” oc c upie d a pre tty box whi c h El wood obtaine d fo r him from the J uly 16 6 5 till the followi ng spring . Milton must have known th e Chal font s n e e e o f the a ue H e e lo g b for the y ar pl g . liv d in e a rly manhood for s e ve ral ye ars at Horto n ’ se w e L Alle r o h e a e th e ( e), and h n in g t k s re ad e r “ ” on a u e a th e u a s nshin holid y to pland vill ges , h e could only have h ad in h is mi nd th ose w c e t he a we e w e hi h , lik Ch lfonts , r ithin a rid o f r Th e c a e the e de H o ton . ott g is on l ft si of the a e e n u the m in str et l adi g p hill . Within are e e e e b ut we som int r sting Miltonian r lics , e fe t o f th e and e pr r to hink past, to pictur Milton h l - f u sitting in t e ow roo ed parlo r . It may have be e n in this room that Milton ask e d E l wood e a the u o f Pa r a dise L ost to r d man script . A t
' C h al o nt he c e rtainly first thought out the pl an o f Par adise R e ained. The c w . g hurch ith a n and t o e t e e nant ave w aisl s , con ains som r m s of w — e e o n 8 s e good ork Norman bas s to pi rs . id , fine u E a w w E . 8 indo and do ble piscina , . , on . de the e e windo si of chanc l , a singl light vr,
D e c . e of c ce f on N sid han l , and a Norman ont , e e d e re are e u e the e c e r stor . Th brass s nd r r ss in
. wa o f . e of a two e n S ll S aisl man and wom , on a at e n f t fli ie and alt r tomb E . d o aisl e h e e g s o f IVilliam G ard ne r n e w fe y , Esq . , and A n , his i , w . e d e 1 8 and on w o f ith nin chil r n , 55 , N . all e th e N . aisle , a palimps st inscription . On N . wall of chance l within the communion rails are the e fli ie s a e e w t wo g of Sir Thom s Fl t ood , his w ee ives and eight n children , and on the same 88
BUCKINGHAM SH I R E
was e e a e e - for sev ral y rs a m ting place for Quakers , the two Chalfonts be ing the ce ntre of a notable amount of Quak e rism in th e e arly part of that e e e n was an r ligious movem nt . I saac P nni gton e special martyr to th e religious e nth usiasm of the u e F riends , being imprisone d fo r times in Ayl sbury
as e d L 0 e e th e n e gaol , and his family w oblig l av Gra g 6 6 n e nd of 1 w e f . in 5. A path ay (l t) at S ( L ondo ) the village leads through th e me adows and Chalfont a b - e Th e e P rk to a y road to D nham , 43 m . hous e t he e e th e b longing to park is s n by lake . It has s e e e s e e ome lit rary int r t , for it b long d to Charles Churc hill ne h e w f e u e of , p o th great D k Marlborough , who 1 6 e e the , in 74 , marri d L ady Maria Walpol , s e e e wh o 1 6 0 fre ist r of Horac Walpol , , from 7 , ue da two e e e o f q ntly spent a y or her , and l ft som his Strawberry Hill influe nce on the archite cture the e Th e e of plac . property pass d out of the s th e 1 po s ession of Chu rchills in 792 . N E the t he . In uplands , about 3 m . to . , is the colony o f the National Socie ty for the Employ e n o f e e m t Epil ptics , an institution modell d on a o f e e e e — the th t Bi l f ld , and establish d first of its — ia 18 kind in England 93 . It can be visited at trme any . The 0 e c five church ( ) is mod rn , but ontains e w o f e e the alim brass s on N . all chanc l . Not p p u sest brass of a prie st . Th e first fig re has been alte re d by the rounding of th e toe s and the n the e addition of shading , so as to bri g figur ( 1540 ) into harmony with the dress of a century the later than that of original brass . Th e other brasse s comme morate William Wh a e lode 1 8 w fe was pp ( 39 ) and i , Eliz I t 00 C H AR T ER IDG E— C HEDDINGT ON n t e e we e 1 6 w o ngrav d , ho v r , till 44 , hich is also the d ate of a brass to son of ab o ve . In th e ve stry is preserved a c ommunion s e rvice of pe wte r ( 16 6 1 Cba rteridge is a ne w parish with a mode rn
n he E . e a . chur c h on th e high grou d to t N . of Ch sh m m e n Cbearsle e . y (Tham , 4 , Hadd ham ,
C . C . a e on u . , 3 3 m ) is a small vill g high gro nd on V e e lie the sid e of the Thame all y . The cottag s h e e 1d ve e Th e along t brok n grou ry pr ttily . u h e f e e w e e ch rch is to t S . o th villag do n a ste p lan . ' I t W we in th e of 1 has a . to r built first half 5th d a e w e n ve an . c ntury ith turr t , a , ch ncel The marks of the high - pitche d roof can still be s e e n in the
we . c now e e to r This chur h is mark d chi fly by P . - e . Th e fine w e 1 featur s font , ith arly 3th century circular bowl fluted be low with c able and flowe r e n be e th e ornam ts above , is to not d . In floor of the c e e e e hanc l , almost imm diat ly b neath the read in w - e g desk , is a ell preserv d brass to John F ank l r e e n h is w fe e 1 6 2 . y and i Margar t , 4 C lseddzngton ( L ondon and N orth - We stern Rail wa w u e u e of is th e y) is itho t any f at r interest , nor u n e w ch rch of any importa c , though it is ell situate d o n a hilloc k with a pleasant be lt of tre e s a low we n around . It has W . to r , ave , aisle and chance l ; the 17th - century pulpit and communion e tabl are noticeable . e d we e e Ch dington , ho v r , poss sses in its ” e e lynchets an obj ct of considerable importanc . e W f he w be the S . o t Th y ill found to . village and are e a conspicuous object on the landscap . The y consist of three broad terrace s on th e hill d f n u si e aci g E . Of co rse various absurd traditions 9 1 BUCKINGHAM SH I RE are e preserved about th m in local histories , but e e now their tru natur has been clearly e stablish e d . They are survivals o f the common field system which was an important e l ement in the Saxon “ e a and m di eval village community . When a hill ” M r e n o w w side , says S ebohm in his classical ork “ o n Tlse En lisla Villa e C ommunit f e g g y , orm d part o f the open field the strips almost al ways w to not w ere made run , up and do n the hill , but horizontally along it ; and in ploughing, the custom for ages was always to turn the sod o f the w w w furro do nhill , the plough consequently al ays w th e w returning one ay idl e . If hol e hillside w on e w ere ploughed in field , this ould result in a gradual travelling of the soil from th e top to th e o f not bottom the field , and it might be noticed . But as in the open -fie ld system the hillside was ploughed in strips with unploughed walks b e w no t een them , sod could pass in the ploughing from on e strip to the next ; but the proc e ss o f moving the sod downwards would go o n age aft e r a e th e w g j ust same ithin each individual strip . ’ w e In other ords , every y ar s ploughing took a sod from the higher edge of the strip and put it o n the lowe r edge ; and the result was that strips became i n time long level terraces o ne above th e w w w other, and the al ks bet een them gre into steep rough banks o f long gras s covered oft e n with - w natural self so n brambl e and bushes . Th e lynchets of Cheddington are the best ex ampl es in the county of an agricultural and social feature o f much historical interest . Cnenies Ise nh am ste ad- , once p Cheyne (Chorley w 1 1 — ood , 3 m . Chal font Road , 3 This 92
B UCKI NGHA M SHI RE will be found in Cbenies C /rurcl) and Monuments o f f 1 0 1 by Adeline , Duchess Bed ord , London , 9
(privately printed), and no one should omit to read ’ n e Fro d s description . The most important is ' o f f K G that to John , first Earl Bed ord , . . (died th e o f first statesman a remarkabl e family, Th e and Anne Sapcote , his countess . magni ficent — and b e autiful memorial t wo recumbent e fligies — in alabaster o n a rich altar tomb is i n the c e ntre
w . of the chapel under the E . indow. S is the somewhat similar but in ferior monument o f w Francis , second E arl , and his ife . N . is another w e ff al tar tomb ith alabaster igy, and richly — o f w coloured Ann e , Countess War ick , daughter o f of the second Earl . I n the centre the Chapel is a plain marbl e slab on Tuscan columns that m B o urchie r comme orates Lady Frances , grand of o f daughter the second Earl . I n the centre w N . all is the memorial to Frances , Lady Chandos — e . O a reclining figur n the S . side is a memorial si milar in character to the two fi rst
w - mentioned monuments , but ith a doubl e arched t o niche surmoun ted by a pediment . This is two Francis , fourth Earl , and his Countess and was e daughters . This monument rected by the Earl himsel f before his d e ath (di e d and it was wh o he erected the monument to Francis , of w second Earl , and to the Countess War ic k . t h e w e 1 th - e Against W . all is a larg 7 c ntury e o f e monu ment to William , first Duk B dford — (died 17 1 1) the Duke and Duchess being s e ated — side by side and a m e dallion o f Lord William Russell (b e headed 16 83) is in the centre of the 18th - w upp e r portion . A characteristic century ork 94 C HEN IES e 1 6 e Wroth e sl e e ( rected 7 9) comm morates y, s cond Duk e (died It is allegorical in character R A f e . . . rom d signs by Sir W Chambers , This T h e stands against the S . wall . memorial of Earl th e Russell (Lord John Russell), Whig statesman , ( 17 92 - 187 8) is similar to that of Lady Franc es w e . . Bouchi r, and is n ear S all , W of door l eading 1 2 th e to the church . Lord Ampthill ( 8 9 o n di plomatist , is commemorated by a tablet S . wall over the memorial to Earl Russell . The monument in the form of a bronze candelabrum is that to Lord Arthur Russell ( 1857 Other monuments o f less importanc e cannot b e e e w here num rated . The indows were placed ( 1895- 97) to commemorat e those o f the House o f o f w Russell , hom no other memorial exists . They ‘ e are from designs by C . E . Kemp , M . A . In addition to the brasses alre ady mentioned are e e of e a e e e s e 1 sev ral oth rs consid r bl int r t , nam ly , ( ) the we - e e o f Ph e li ll pres rv d brass Anna p (c . wh o e d D e c n 2 holds a h art , and stan s in a . iche ; ( )
e s n 0 . 1 1 1 Agn s John on, in a lo g robe and hood ( 5 ) e e r u ( 3 ) E lizab th , daught of John Bro ghton with long flowing hair ; (4) in th e inne r
c are h n . 1 6 por h Jo n Wallisto , Smythe (c 4 9) and two w e f of 2 e e his iv s ; and ( 5) le t ( ) a v st d prior . A fe w yards down t he hill (on the main road e a e u to Ch sh m ) right hand , is a bridl road thro gh an a venue of old e lms whence there is a charming e w u th e of t h e e a e u vi p valley Chess , sp ci lly b a ti ful Th e e c the in eve ning light . road l ads a ross e to e w th e vall y Sarratt (H rts). The path ay at ’ we st e nd of t h e church l e ads to th e M onk s a w f — W l k , ith some traditions o a ghost a shady 95 BU CKINGHAM SHI RE
w w o f path ay along the bro the hill . The Manor House adjoining th e Church is an exc el lent exampl e o f 16 th century domestic archi e w h was t cture . The house hic once stood there e o f 16 th r buil t about the middl e the century . Clse ers Cour t n t ou ( o open to public . Kimbl e 2 on e o f th e o f Station , m . ) is historic houses o n Bucks . Built a grassy gap in the Chilterns e e w and surround d by tre s and beech oods , it is the f centre o a charming landscape . Architecturally it is o f consid e rabl e interest as an example of a d o f 16 for omestic building the th century, it s 1 6 6 th e e was wa built in 5 . In G orgian period it considerably defaced by additions of incongruous
w now e . details , hich have been remov d Inter
w . f nally the library, hich extends along the S ront , is - o n e f e a noticeabl e room , eighty e t long . Chequers has attained a c el ebrity outside Buckinghamshire from the coll ection o f portraits o f Cromwell and his family which it contains . The most import ’ ant are those o f the Protector s two sons and four e of w f daughters . There are thre Crom ell himsel , o n e an rat e o f w d but at y , that Crom ell as a chil , is not regarded as genuine by good authorities . Th e y found a home at Chequ e rs by r e ason o f ’ e o f w e the marriag Crom ell s young st daughter, o f Frances , to Sir John Russell , Chi ppenham , Col w . Cambridgeshire, hose grandson , Charl es e u R e ve tt e e o f Russell , marri d Joanna C tts , h ir ss h e r Th urb arn e wh o was mother, Joanna , heiress w of o f C ro ke s wh o by ill M ary, the last the , had inherited Ch e quers from the H awtreys early in 1 the 7th century . The ownership o f Chequers can be trac e d 96
B U CKINGHAM SHIRE
P. w w w o f the chancel of , the est indo nave , w w w o f also indo s in N . and S . alls the tran w w w . septs , as ell as cl erestory indo s on w Note the N . all of chancel a curious 16 2 monument to Richard Woodcote , 3 , and old b utte sses of . e several sundials on the S aisl , and v in the par ise over the porch , entered by turret
. f o f . w stair from S aisl e , ragments N ork . c 1 Near the chur h is the Bury, a good 7 th century house .
besbam ois 1 . C B . . ( m S . S . E Chesham ; 3 m N . of Am e rsham) consists o f a fe w scattered cottag e s ne w e on of e and many hous s the S . Ch sham Bois th e r e w e Common, on la ge ridg hich divid s the e o f e f Misbourne e vall y the Ch ss rom the Vall y . The church is finely situate d in a pl e asant w of e meado overlooking the valley the Ch ss , and e t u w th e is approach d hro gh a drive , hich is e 88 1 the entrance to a private hous . In 1 tower W was u S . . reb ilt and placed at angle , and the n n e buildi g ge erally has been much restor d . l e e e 1 th - Th r is a carv d pu pit ( 7 century), and in th e floor of the chanc e l a small brass to Bene dict L e e ( 1520 ) of a c h rysom child (the ch rysom was th e white cloth in which an infant was w rappe d immediately after baptism , and which serve d as a shroud if the c hild die d within two a month of its birth) . Adjoining are fine 16 - r e e i o f e th century b ass s , m mor als E lizab th , 6 w e e . 1 1 ife of Rob rt Cheyn , Gent , 5 , and of 1 2 w n . Robert Chey e , E sq , 55 , sho ing much e labo ration of tre atme nt both in th e fe ature s e and dr ss . b wod 2 m C et e . . ( F inmere Station , O x on , 3 ; 98 CH ES HAM BOI S—CH I CHE LE Y
s Buckingham , 3§ m . ) is another of those place th e w h ad no e in county hich in reality villag , e the e e the the church b ing c ntr of parish . It 12 adjoined the Augustinian Priory, founded in 44 R al h e de w w was the by Sir p Nor ich , of hich it is w conventual church . I t a building hich has — W N . no w w r . out ard attraction , the to e at angle E E r —its e . a appears to be . but is poo , import nc w E E w lies in the chancel , hich is fine . . , ith a - w fi w . ve . light E . indo , and a N and S trip let with flowe rs and animals on the capitals o f th e f . w w a sha ts . The S indo has old gl ss — of the 13th and 14th c e nturie s depicting five e S figur s . On . side is a beautiful arcade w f ith sha ts and foliated capitals , and the h n w One toot ed or ament in hollo mouldings . compartment form s the doorway into th e gardens of th e priory (where there is a ke y of c s ] the chur h). On a lab in the chance is an e e 1 inscription to the memory of Risl y Risl y, 7 55, w n v th e hich mentio s , among his other irtues , “ pleasant trait that he was a gentleman of great ” hospitality . ' Cbzcbele e w e 2 y (N port Pagn ll , m . ) is a ue e picturesq plac , consisting of some thatched cottages under large trees by the roadside , and w - and on S . of road the hite gabled rectory the w - e w r church , ith grey, ivy cover d to e , a fair sized building pleasantly placed , but of no e s n e int re t , havi g much mod rn and some poor l e mediaeva work . Note a curious monum nt on w e e e e all of N . aisle , to A nthony Cav , r ct d by w w 6 s u a his ido in 1 57 . On the arcophag s lies s e u n u th e keleton und r a canopy . Sing larly e o gh 99 B UCKINGHAM SH I RE
a e u e c e o n s m s bj t is d picted a brass , a monument to one of the Cave s (c . There are t wo we ll pre se rv e d brasse s on the o f A t floor , in same part the church , to n hony Cave and his wife though a figure in armour suitable to a much e arlie r time has be e n e for e us d this m morial . 'l m C b t e C . C z ofl . . ( Tham , 4 ; Watton , C i ltonc 3% m . ) Domesday , is e we w w a villag ll orth a visit . No here is th e aspect o f a 1 7th -century villag e more W t . th e S o f horoughly preserved It lies at . . a 0 ridge (45 and at the N . side is shel tered by e of w the slop s a small hollo . In the past i t was e w C ro ke s wh o chiefly identifi d ith the , were lords o f the manor from about 1 52 9 to 16 82 was o f . Sir George Crok e a Judge the ’ w King s Bench , during the trying times hich n preceded the Rebellio , and he had the strength o f character to give j udgment against the claim o f w the Cro n for ship money . w o f The church , hich stands at the N . side — the village note the picturesque hal f- timbered cottages near the S . entrance to the churchyard e e is a r markabl building . Approached from the w for low E E S . no to er is to be seen , i t is a . . o n e o f structu re , the N . sid the church , giving the o f interior the appearance having a N . transept . E E w An . . S . transept and a P . porch , ith a f w room above , are the eatures hich at once attrac t
E E. w e e notice . The chancel is . , hil the broad nav , f w o f w . . ith an oak roo , is P On the E all (outside) the nave a stone effigy o f a knight in chain armour has been plac ed in an u pright position , 100
BUCKI N GHAMSH I R E the bl ue line of the Chilt e rns bre aks the horizon . t bolcrl ur e e m e a . C . y ( W ndov r , 4 ; Ch sh m , gi m ) e nd f is a scatte red village on the N . o a high 6 20 ft on the u n we e common ( . ) pla ds bet n the e summi t of th e Chilt rns and Chesham . The c u 18 2 - o f a e hurch reb ilt 7 7 3 the old m t rials , is e w be llc ot an interesting littl building ith , bu e . a . t nave, and chanc l It is m inly Dec , the
fe e the E E . chief ature of inter st is . south we porch . To the N . of the church is a ll pre served plateau camp grown ove r but not e t e now c e e hidd n by r es . It omm nces clos to e r e the vicarag , and returns in a semici cl to a
n . o f th e u w poi t S . E ch rch , the site of hich it e e onc nclosed . I t consists of a ditch and ram e the part ; and , having r gard to confor one e mation of the ground , it must at time hav f t if e fi . e ormed a s rong , rud , forti cation It cov rs e 15 acr s . C i mlwm pp to the S . of, and in the parish of B urnham is now an insignificant littl e hamlet with no trac e s of th e Royal Palace oc c upie d by th e Mercian kings and e r o f the e the a ly Norman monarchs , or chap l I grante d by H enry I I . to the Abbess of
Burnham . C la dom Tbc e e y , . It is conv ni nt to e ma e of e e r gard the s ll parish s Ste pl , Middle and East Claydon and th e haml e t o f Botolph Claydon as a singl e com are c e munity , for they lose tog ther and are ar fe r ch acterised by the same natural atu es . 10 2 CHOL ESBUR Y— TH E C L AYDO N S
e w f o f Each , too, is associat d ith the amily the w Verneys . Claydon House itsel f stands ithin a ’ e ston s throw o f Middl e Claydon church .
Ste ul . pp or Steepl e Claydon (Claydon , L and W 2 N . . , m . Verney Junction , } m . ) is the north
e rn most of r . the three pa ishes The village, the o f e e on w largest the thr , stands an el evation , hence wide and pleasant views are obtained of Brill to Hill and Ashendon to the W . the Chilterns w - N . w . the , over ell ooded pastures The church
is on e o f the fe w in the county with a steepl e . e e e e are It has b n much r stor d , and parts mod e rn ; it pres e nts no fe ature of inte rest The n D e c e u i of . w E wi do is . The b autiful sit at on t of th e his building is its attraction . To the N . c h urch is an old stone barn with an inscription e t lling that the Parliamentary army, under the of wel was e command Crom l , encamp d here i n 6 h e f March 1 44 . In t village itsel is a simple e o f th e buildi ng which is a fr e library . Each Claydons possesses this valuabl e addition to village e of few e E lif , and are some the villag s in ngland which have had the good sense to adopt the Free
Libraries Act . B otol h C la don e p y , as already stat d , is only a e o n e haml t , though a large , and lies to the S W o f o n to . . East Claydon the road Claydon e e nd Hous and Middl e Claydon . At the E . is old - - Botolph House , an brick and ston e Manor old House , shaded by an c edar .
East Cla don w 1 . y (Winslo Road, m ) is a de lightful villag e on high ground overlooking th e th e S county to E . and . , characterised by the - -wh same black and it e cottages , many havi ng a 10 3 BUCK INGHAM SHIR E
1 th - e m its 7 century date , und r shady el s , as e o f n ighbour Botolph Claydon . At the E . side th e e e e th e villag , almost imm diately opposit e m c the church , is the Manor Hous far , alled h e w w e w W it House, ith its long hit alls and c e one u s por h hidden in cr e pe rs . No sho ld pas w we h o w old it by unnoticed , but hen remark it e 16 8 is , it becomes doubly inter sting . Here in 5 ff of lived M r Abel , the sheri the county, and here V o f Edmund ern ey, the eldest son Sir Ralph w of and his ife Mary, the daughter M r Abel , lived f e 16 6 2 rom their marriag in , and it has hardly Th e e e . been touch d sinc that time church , which is rea c hed bv a short lan e near the sign w omts to W ns w f e a e post hich p i lo , is su fici ntly isol t d — to give o ne a s e ns e o f tranquillity with the outstretching co u ntry to the S which is only — broken by the l ow line of the Chilterns but it has not much e xcept its delightful position to recommend i t to the stranger . But this is sufficient . Architecturally it is without special v and e indi iduality, has be n a good deal rebuilt f e since its oundation . The d tails are Dec . and P are 1 but poor, and some are probably really 7th 18 - and th century work . M iddle C la don w ta 2 y (Winslo R oad S tion , % w w e m . ) lies mid ay bet e n S teepl e and East n e Claydo , being rather a parish than a villag , and having its c entre in the church and in w — th e Claydon House , hich stand side by side o f w was church a littl e to the S . the house, hich o f fo r the M anor House Claydon , and dates back w many c enturies . An old dra ing depicts the N . front o f Claydon House in the 17th c e ntury 10 4
BUCKIN GHAM SHI RE
we e wh o several generations com to Sir Francis , e e became an Algerin pirat , and died in Sicily ; and wh o v o f to Sir Edmund , took o er the remainder 16 2 0 the Claydon l ease , and returned there in . f He married Margaret Denton o Hillesden . A faithful if a reluctant adherent of Charl es I he 16 2 lost his life for him at Edgehill in 4 . Then came Sir Ralph , the j udicious Parliamentarian , wh o 16 6 . was died in 9 His son , Sir John , created
e rmana h . e Baron Vern ey, Viscount F g The s cond wh o e 1 1 was Earl Verney, di d in 79 , succeeded by wh o was ermana h his niec e, created Baroness F g , and through her half-sister Claydon descended w wh o by ill to Sir Harry Calvert , subsequently of assumed the name Vern ey . M iddl e Claydon church (the key can be obtained at Claydon House) stands on the S . s of ide the house . It can be reached by either o f of —o n the entrances the park N . side from the S o r o n road to Claydon tation Verney Junction , w S . a road from East Claydon and Winslo Road
. w Station It is a small church , ith nave and ] e 1 0 chance the latter in the P . styl e , b gun in 5 9 i 1 1 w and fin shed in 5 9, and the hol e has been practically rebuilt . The monuments and brasses which i t contai ns give it much interest . The oldest monument is a simpl e altar tomb in the chanc el with an effigy of ff w i n alabaster a lady richly habited , a Gi ard, ith
1 . w o f the date 539 On the N . all chancel is a characteristic Jacobean monument , to Urian and Lettice Vern ey o f the kind so familiar to wh o a o f those h ve studied the churches E ngland , f a man and wife kneeling at either side o a desk . 10 6 T H E C L A YD ON H O U S E
BUCKINGHA M SH IRE
ne wa E e t from Ol y by y of mb rton , or by a foo path the e w e e ur across m ado s starting from n ar Oln y Ch ch , d small c hurc h or by a ford at Laven on Mill . The w e e e . d n ho ev r , is v ry int resting I t is a short buil i g , w n e a e a e c e ith av , isl s , and ch nc l , a small N . hap l , we 12 1h c e nt e to r ( ury) and S . porch . The nav is u w a t e e e curio sly high , ith Dec . b t l m nts . I t has lanc t a e c of th e n i f D e c rch s , indi ative tra sit on rom E . E . to . , th e w w D e c Th e but indo s are both . and P . font , of e 1 - e w w w e lat 4th c ntury ork , is note orthy, ith figur s , u w n u u a m ch or , in panels ro nd the pper p rt . This c e u The hurch contains some remarkabl mon me nts . e e o f w n e e e arli st these is ithin a ca opi d r c ss in the N . “ wa . and of two e ll of the N aisle , consists recumb nt e ffi ie s f e a g , male and emal , c rved in oak , and resting u e Th e on a modern slab s pported by brack ts . knight o r warrior is re presented in the usual armour of l th e b ut th e le u w was the g c ntury, g armo r , hich w e d Th e probably sho n in colours , has disappear . h s e t e e . purs also are gon , but straps r main The right le g is cross e d ov e r the left ; with the right hand h e s and w th e e h e is heathing his s word , ith l ft holds a e 1e two u h n the scabb rd . His h ad sts on c s io s , fe e d e u e d The o . and his t on a g, very rud ly fig r ’ u e o f u o f e e lady s cost m is , co rse , the sam p riod . we a h e r w on She rs over head a veil , hich falls de h e e ac h sid e of th e face to the shoul rs . T neck and e e d w w e n chin are cov r ith a imple , r achi g a the u e r e low lmost to nd lip . The dr ss is in r n and w f ont about the eck , falls in folds do n to f e w e e w s the e t . The go n is sleev l ss , ith long lits for the arms . The hands are raised in prayer . u e n Th e mon m nt has neither date nor inscriptio , but has been supposed to repr e s e nt Simon de 10 8
B UCKIN GHAM SHI RE
to of quently belonged the first Earl Orkney, and of f o f later to Frederick , Princ e Wal es , ather e r w George I I I . Aft ards it became the property o f the Duk e of S utherland, and by the marriage o f the first Duke o f Westmoreland with Lady Constanc e L e ve son Gower it passed into the o f f was possession the Grosvenor amily . I t burnt w 1 18 0 d w do n i n 7 95, rebuilt i n 3 , again burnt o n and rebuilt by the Duk e of Buckingham in 1849 of o n e from the designs Sir Charl es Barry, and is o f o f the masterpieces that great architect . C old B ra e/d w yfi (Olney, M idland Rail ay, 3 w 2 m Turvey, Beds . , M idland Rail ay, m . ) is a small parish without a village . Th e church and f Bra fi eld an adjoining arm stand to the N . of y o f w l es w House , the park hich p do n to the
Ouse . It is a small and poor but early church w w ith chancel , nave , and W . to er . The N . E E f o f porch is . . , and is the best eature the
building .
C oley/7 171 2 . was (Amersham Station , 3; m ) f of f ormerly an isolated bit Hert ordshire, s everal o f n ow mil es from the rest the county . It is w rather a bl eak village, ith a common and a small w s . a modern church Here, at the M anor House , — bo rn E dmund Wall e r th e poet 16 0 5) ree Intro n e fi e 16 th ductio , p . 55, and B acons ld . This e no w the century hous , called Stock s Place , is in th e th e centre of village opposite schools . Near it ’ e w is Wall r s oak . Tradition has it that in a hollo of this old tree the poet used to sit and write e s s w v r es , but thi fiction probably gre from this ’ fine tre e be ing call e d Waller s oak through its e proximity to his birthplac . 110 COLD BRAY FI EL D—C UDDINGTON
olnbr ool t n e C (Sta io , onc a municipal borough , is lar e un nte re stin a e e s e nowa g , i gvill g on ither id ofthe main 8 fe w e the road . On . side are a old hous s , Ostrich Inn The is e specially should be noted . church modern . m — C re se lai Cr eslow A 6 . ( ylesbury , g ) D omesday, n of a consists of an ancient Ma or H ouse S . the ro d from A lesbury to Wh itchurch be low it immense pastures y — slope to Creslow Brook ofte n too well known to hunt — h e 0 the e t e 0 . ing men larg st , Gr at F ield , is 3 acres F or centurie s the y were th e fe eding gro und of cattle for the ’ 1 6 u e royal kitchen, as is recited in 59 by Q een Elizab th s l e tte r s pat e nt granting to one Mayne th e post of kee per and e for w 16 e w v e h rd t enty years . In 7 3 th y ere con ey d ff 180 0 absolutely to Thomas , L ord Cli ord . About they were h eldas te nant b afarme rnamedWe stcar A uaint y . q agricultural monument can be seen to him in the church h e 1 e e gained many p iz s for his cattle . Thes great fields e e be hav sinc continued to important feeding pastures. w was one i s h i s Creslo at time a parish , but t istory o A t the trme o f e i obscure . the Dissolution ofthe monast r e s e s Th e the manor b longed to the Knights H ospitaller . n 1 0 now is Ma or House , built c . 3 3 , a farmhouse , an inte re s ting e xample of medie val domestic archite cture — n e a we e ot an oct gonal to r at S . end , some mullion d w e w w no w . indo s and a crypt ith a groin d roof, a cellar of Adjoining are some relics the chapel . C ublin ton e d 8c R g ( L ighton Buzzar , L . N . W . y. , 5 m —a h e . e v s t ) secluded littl illage , tanding high among s w pasture of the Vale of Aylesbury, ith a small early - 1 th . Th e e w e 5 century church nav is holly of this dat , th e s e e d a other part hav b en slightly restore . Note a pl in e s e str l t 12 1 h - v a e th t u w . oak ch t in y, or early 3 cent ry ork
Cuddin ton 8c . 2 g (Haddenham, G . W . G . C R . m . A e 1 1s yl sbury, 5 m . ) on the main road between Aylesbury
. o f u s d of and the W the county . The ch rch , at N . i e 111 BU CK INGH AM SHI R E th e c e ] e w e A S village , has a hanc , nav , ith aisl s , . . e we u w . . e chap l , and to r ith stair t rret at N E corn r . th e e are t wo w n w w In S . chap l i do s ith P . trace ry w e Th e and a dripstone ith fin ly carved heads . E . w o f the are w . De c . indo s nave and S chapel early ,
th e of th e s E . E . th e e capitals pier , font is lat N . 6 w . 12 0 . e o f Note the S . door ay , c On the N . sid th e ch urch is an inte re sting old house with th e date 6 u e w 1 0 now e . on a door ay , 9, s d for a villag club ’ C mée/irze r M ount m e are th e y , or Ki ble Castl , popular nam e s fo r th e ext re me point ( 530 fe e t) ofth e h romontor in th e o f e igh grassy p y parish E ll sborough , Wt h e h o f t h e e - t e a spur Chilt rns , ext nds into h e w e w t . lo land , b t een Ell esborough and Kimbl es fo r I t is a conspicuous object a long distanc e, and its formation is similar to that o f many places the extremity of which has become a fortified post . When approached the end is found to be a S w e w e e . conical hill ith smooth sid s xc e pt on , her it is c onn e cte d by a ne c k with th e main range of Th e the Chilte rns . banks and ditche s of a rude r are e and e fo tification still visibl , appar ntly it was u c astle P0 3 3 1bl a mo nt and bailey . y it was a fortified position during both the Roman and Saxon dominion , dominating as it did Ic knie ld the i mportant Way, and commanding a e o f f large xtent ertil e country . But there is absolutely no historical evid e nce of any connec ’ tion between Cymbelin e s M ount and an abode o f the British king whos e resid e nce was at Cam w ulodun um (Col chester). But as his coinage sho s that Cymbeline also r e igned at Verulamium (St w was f Albans), hich not distant rom the Chiltern n -f ra ge , it is not too far etched a supposition that [ 12
BUCKINGHAM SH I RE e e a w e e e a sp ci lly in H olland , Win ood b cam Secr t ry M o f . P 16 1 S tate and . for Buck s in 4 , and in 16 1 - 1 e e of 5 7 Jam s I . appointed him K eper the M e e e l essuag and Park of Ditton . H r he bui t a on o f e d a d w mansion the site a m i eval buil ing , hich became his country house for th e remainde r of his fe e are c e li , so D itton and D atch t los ly bound up w his e s 16 2 - 0 a ith later y ar . I n F ebruary 9 3 , L dy ’ Win ood s Winwood purchased Ditton Park . w was d e 18 12 th e house estroy d by fire in , and in w n th e e n follo i g year pres nt house , a large , rambli g , - e was e semi castellat d building , erected by E lizab th, s e h w te Duches of Buccl uc , to hom the esta had e n e e e desc d d through Ann , only daught r of Sir R . w d who e a w Win oo , marri d L ord Mont gu , and hose son be came owner of D itto n on th e death of his N E e n . . . th w u cle of house is a chapel , ith a nave , and on w d e chancel S . porch ; the E . all is the at 6 th e w 8 1 1 1 1 . 7 , and on W . all that of 7 en/mm W D n G . 8C l . (Statio , . m ) is e o f remarkable for its many examples , in and n ar , me ae e e f di val dom stic architecture . I t is a d light ul old -world village with a singl e street of pic turesque h a e lm e a w e ouses l rge trees , pl asant me do s and littl s w —c c th e treams , among hich it lies haracteristi of — vall e y of the Colne add to the charm of the
- e . 1 th a e e plac The 4 century church , of flint , is gr a n e th e ably pl ced amo g ov rhangi ng trees at S . E . de e end of the village . Internally it has consi rabl r e w merit in its propo tions, and has a nav ith t o e be 16 th - w aisl s . There should noted a century n and w e monume t to Sir E . Peckham his if , — th e e e on the N . side of the altar r cumb nt lie e t h e e e~ figure s sid by side , feet hav been car 114 DEN HA M ful e e e e ly r stor d with old fragm nts . The tr at m o f e and e u e wa ent the h ads f at r s , though nting e e e w in r finem nt , is evid ntly the ork of a sculptor w of the e imbued ith the spirit Renaissanc . A t th e e c e of e in ntran the chanc l N . is an te re stin a e n g br ss , 3 feet , to Dam A gnes Jorda , last A bbess of S ion o ne of th e only two he e xtant brasses in England to an abbe ss . T fe u e e at r s are broadly but accurat ly portrayed . On the opposite sid e is a well - pre s e rv e d brass an e Th e o f e of eccl siastic . inscription later dat e be e e is suppos d to to L onard Hurst , pri st Th e re are also b1ass e s to Walter Dure de nt and his t wo wives A palimp se st brass now affix e d to a movabl e frame was originally a monument to a friar , but on this design h as been e ngraved the e ffi gy of A mphillis Pe ckham I t shows th e inge nuity wi t h which the later artist has adapte d the outlines of th e first to those o f th e e u e t ne w h s cond fig re . An incis d s o slab, it fi u e of wn e a g r a man in a go , Philip Edel n w of c e ] in the S . all the hanc , is an e w exampl of a rare kind of ork , probably an a ttempt of a brass work e r to adapt his d ff a th e art to a i erent material . A p inting on w l of n e u be e nor S . a l av sho ld not overlook d , an octagon font ( R E ) The fine ave nue of limes close to the church l e ads to D e nham r e Cou t . M mories of D ryden still linger about u f h e e v e w e e or . this ho s , oft n isit d Sir W Bo y r, who was th e w e and h e e the then o n r , call d “ g ard e n one of the most delicious in Eng ” e d f h l and. The high walls at the W . n o t e 115 BUCKINGHA M SH IRE village e nclose th e gard e ns of De nh amPlace but c an we e f c w it be ll s en rom the road to Ri kmans orth . It was e e e x onc the home ofthe P ckhams , and is a striking e of e e u e ampl the dom stic archit ct r of its age . It contains fine N E he u . I . . . t e some tapestry i m is Savoy, a ho s ( 14th to 16 th c e ntury) with re mains of 1 6 th - c e nt ury a w n e e mur l paintings , and hich is importa t as a sp cim n e the a e a of dom stic a rchitecture . H ill House in vill g is b ut e e e th - e e small good xampl of a lat 1 7 c ntury r sidence . Den/3 a m e of u o f , haml t Q ainton . The mansion the ancie nt lords of Q uainton and the Winwoods stood e e a h r fr gments only remain . 1 Dinton G W 8c - m e (Haddenham , . . 3 7 . ; Ayl s but e to e from e u y , 4% m . ) li s S . of th main road Ayl sb ry to Thame ; it is re ach e d th rough a picture sque avenue o f e e e ch stnuts . I t is a charming villag shad d by elms , through which the distant Ch i lte rns c an be se en to th e w Th e c ke e S . across the meado s . hurch ( y at Vicarag ), e 16 th e w e the gabl d Manor H ouse ( c ntury), hich touch s W th e e the . be e grav yard on , the half tim red hous , through an ar c hway of which th e passer -by re ache s the v e Th e we e e . lo r part of the illag , mak a unique pictur d w of e c church , as a buil ing , sho s important signs a h he i l u Th e of t pe riods of English me d z va architect re . f n w rs e e e o . w 1 S . door ay the most remarkabl pi c N ork th e ce i c 1n e xe county , is imaginative in con pt on, and ri h c ution w e i t e of e e i n , hil has som thing barbaric rud n ss its e Th e e f are e of tr atment . chi points to note thr e courses e th e h oodmould th e the e bill t on , outer jambs , bold rais d e e e o r e e e e and r c ss d zigzag on the nex t inn r ord r , a b ard d monste r with beaded scroll o n th e abacus : next the guil loche pattern ro und the tympanum forme d by three inter e e e e the lacing b ad d scrolls , and in the c ntr of tympanum , r and on e e w w e d a t ee , eith r sid an animal ith pa s , h a 116
DINTON
of w and a shaggy mane a lion , and body ithout off hind legs , gradually tapering to the tail . E ach animal is in the act of biting the fr uit off from
e . e w the in the tre B lo , on main face , is an e c e e w scription in larg apital lett rs , and b lo , on e e e e f th e e in upp r chamf r d edg o lintel , anoth r scr1 tron p . O n the lint e l is the combat betwe e n St e w Michael and Satan . An immens dragon ith te rribl e jaws and large e xtende d tongue is advanc f th e w w e e ing rom W . to ards a small ing d figur
th e . e wh o s w in E corn r , hold a cross , hich he t is about to thrust down he throat of the s e rpe nt . Th e E H th e w w w chancel is . . , E . indo , ith its w e e three lights id ly s parated , or, more strictly e the e w w sp aking , thr e E . indo s , being the most Th e e re markable . nav arches and piers are not
e w d w D e e . specially notic able , but in o s , both and
P e us th e e nd th e e e v . . , tak to of m di al period D e c - u The font ( . ) is cup shaped , fl ted , round e Th e w the top is geom trical orname nt . to er a u at th e S E and has t rret . . angle a very good
E . E we w . st door ay . W the S . . On the floor of the S . aisle in corne r are brasses to John Compton and w e u w e e th e his ife , b autif lly ork d . Mor to N . is th e f L e e w e e a e figy of William and his if , h d of e L e e less E . th se are F ranci s w e w fe in a go n very finely engrav d , and his i , and their seve n sons and four daughters lie at fe et of John Compton .
e w . To the N . and lev l ith W L ee are 16 1 w w Simon Mayne ( 7) and his ife , belo are tw l o c n . w their hildre . Close to S al . are 117 B UCKINGHA MSH I RE
. w and w f Thos Green ay in armour his i e , e e w and h adless , and E . of them , Richard Gre n ay his w e if , Joan
N . E of on th e e d To . the village , Ayl sbury roa , is a ruin called The Castl e it co nsisted of a towe r t o w 1 6 was and w side to ers built in 7 9, and e of w e vidently a mere fancy the o n r . In the 17 th century D i nton be longed to the Mayne w Simon was one e c e family, one of hom , , ofthe r gi id s h e e w di d in the To er , but his body is buried in Dinton the church . Members of this family held manor and e 2 w e was r sided at the Hall , till 1 7 7 , h n it sold to John V t m I t n be l s h e irs th e anhat e ow on . . g to his , Goodalls Ditton Par e , see Datchet . Dodderrball e ori inall D ode rshulle is a haml t ( g y ), but fine u is remarkable for its old Manor House (Q ainton, 1 portions ofwhich probably date from the 14th was 16 . 8 century, but the S front built in 9 and altera w e 1 0 th e tions ere mad about 79 . The hall , library , ” and the brown hall contain much old oak carv 1 16th 1 h Th e ing of the 5th , , and 7t centuries . estate came into the possession of Mr Serge ant 1 0 e Pigott in 5 3 and still r mains in his family . D or ne w 2 2 y (Taplo , m . E ton , m . ) is a village quite in the Thames Valley . The church has a c we P e e e 1 0 w bri k to r , . , r ct d c . 53 , but is other ise t f n e . w e . u int res ing It contains , ho ev r , a N ont and e e 1 a fine Jacob an monum nt to Sir W . Gerrard ( the central part of which consists of two ne arly li fe e ffi ie s of sized g . D orney Court , E . church , is a x e 16 - e n fine e ample of arly th c tury architecture . r w e e e The g eat hall , ith scr ns and dais , is r markable . o t W C 8c D r on n G . G . (Wotto , . . R . Brill Branch Me t R I r s . . , i m . ) is ve y uggestive of the past . The e w s n as an Manor House , a larg hite house , intere ti g 118
BUCKI NGHA M SHI RE sc ulpture ; (3) two large and important brasse s w to a e ithin the communion rails ( ) Thos . Cheyn ,
- . s e e w E sq , hi ld b arer to Ed ard I I I . (b) William Cheyne both in armour ; (c) in c h the hanc e l floor t e e ffigy of a headless priest , H e n . F azak e rl e y Drayton Beauchamp has a furthe r intere st from the fact that in 1 584-85 Hook e r ( 1 553-16 00 ) was e as s rector here . His r side n ce w so hort that he can scarcely be associated mark edly with a but e s the pl ce, hi s stay has been mpha ised ’ by the description given in Walton s L fi e of a r n visit paid to him by his pupils , Geo ge Cra w S mer and E d in andys , son of the Archbishop wh o th e u Ecclesi of York , found future a thor of ’ nrtzeal Polity ( 1584) herding she e p in the field s n r all l or ea the rectory, not after so unusua disagreeable an occupation for a country clergy in th e 16 e ff e to man th c ntury, and not di er nt the horticultural occ upations of the parsons of our o wn Th e e was time . r sult of this visit th e transfer of Hooker to the Mastership of the
Temple . was o the e s who It fr m B auchamp , held part of of th e e the manor Drayton in 1 3th c ntury, that we e t th e g double name Drayton Beauchamp, although that family was only in pos session for e five g nerations . Dr a ton Parr/ow w ne w y ( S anbour , 3 hich t its n Passe law akes seco d name from the family of , wh o we re lords of the manor for several ge nerations f e I . e rom the time of H nry , is a modern villag of red- h u s be n brick cottages , ardly any old b ilding i g 120 DRAYTON PA RSLOW— D ROPMORE
w h as w the left , hich gro n up round church E e w w c E . e The S . por h is . , and th r is a P . East indo , of th e w w w the rest church , W . to er and indo s , is
te of old w w . Dec . No fragments glass in the indo s
D . u e w e The font , tho gh the h raldic ork is rath r de no w w e e s o f ru and orn , i s int r sting , a succe sion e e e w e fi nials e a th e r c ss s ith crock t and . N r font is a slab in which have o nce been the e ffigie s in brass of a man and woman - the re still remain be low — the se vacant spa ce s t wo groups thre e sons and e d u e w we e th e e elev n a ght rs , much orn , ho v r , and dat 1 Bla ke noll th e e c . 53 5, and nam of the family D r o more w a p ( 3% m . from Taplo S t tion) may be approache d e ithe r by the Taplow entranc e or by the pretty lodg e close to L ittl e mo re th e e Common . One can pass through main driv e w e e two t th e b t e n th se points at any ime , but gardens and p r ivat e grounds can be visite d on d e e and f 1 1 Mon ays , W dn sdays Saturdays rom ’ e th e to 5 o clock . E v n from main drive many e e e be e e e e conif rous tr s may s n , and thes specim ns f are th e of e e of coni ers glory D ropmor . Th y w e e h er plant d by William Wynd am, L ord Gre nvill e ( 17 59 afte r h e purchas e d th e e 1 2 w was e prop rty in 7 9 , hich then littl no e be tter than waste land . I t w contains som th e ne f e e of fi st coni erous tr s in England , and in early summe r is gorgeous with th e brilliant flowers of rhodod e ndr ons and azaleas . Among th e most remarkable trees is th e c e dar of e e L banon on the lawn plant d in 1 794 . Th e as th e planting w done by F rost , head e wh o w gard ner, , years after , ould point out to e w as e visitors spl ndid trees hich , he grav ly said , 12 1 BU CKI NGH A MSH I RE h e had e his w and carri d in aistcoat pock et , w of t s b e e ould tell visi y G org I I I . Drop more can never be dissociated from its first ’ _ wn e e who was F e o er , L ord Gr nvill , P itt s or ign e 1 1- 180 1 S cretary from 7 9 , and the head of “ th e short - live d Ministry known as A ll th e ” n it Talents , containi g as did both F ox A w h e the and ddington , hich formed on e was death of P itt in 180 6 . D ropmor L ord ’ for rs d e G re nville s home many yea , and he i d e 18 her in 3 4 .
Danton w . (Winslo , 4% m ) has no village the a e e church , parson g , an old Manor H ous , and a farm and one or two cottage s o n a side road among extensive pastur e s form t of he centre the parish . The church is v s and of ery mall , gives a good idea the t e s ate of the Buc ks churches a c ntury ago , with h igh pe ws and white -washed c e ilings n A and oak be ams disappeari g above it . n w c pisci a , ith a single round moulding , is noti e
in w . A w w able the N . all door ay ith zigzag now e th e ornament , block d up , tells of antiquity of the church . On the floor of nave near t h e two e ffi ie s chancel are g in brass , much w the w w orn , figures of a man and oman ith scroll s from th e ir mouth s and under c the ffi of the chancel ar h is e gy Collys , e wife of Richard with on child . Part of the inscription is lost .
Ed eeott 1 . e ta n g ( % m Calv rt S tio , Great Central ), is a small . village with thatched cottages sprinkl e d n w e amo g damp meado s round a littl hill , on the w s c w summit of hich stand the hurch , ith a fine 12 2
BU CKINGHAM SHI RE s n - are and s w e oundi g board small , thu the hol
w e e . ork is strikingly delicat , refined and elaborat Edlesboro ugh is also fortunate in the posse ssion fine mod e e e e w e of a P . scr n , tog th r ith carv d s th e w th e e talls , hole forming best xample in the n ‘ the e e e e c cou ty , of app aranc , in this r sp t , of a
e ae . of . e e m di val church I n the floor N aisl , n ar
. e two n the N trans pt , are brasses in good conditio , ’ John R ufl ord and his thre e wives On the
w of . e e ffi ie s e n Bru is N . all N trans pt the g of H ry g w f and his i e the man in a fur gown . th e E w are e e c e s On . all som remarkabl orb l a dragon , etc . Ellesborou h e e R a g ( Wendov r, M tropolitan il W wa 2 . e e w y, 3 m Kimbl , Great stern Rail ay,
i u e u e . m . ) is a p ct r sq e and delightful plac The church (0) stands conspicuously on one of th e e s s s the north rn purs of the Chiltern , almo t in ’ e s S plain , Cymb line Mount overtops it to the . , and then the ste e p slopes of the Chilte rns close
s e e w. thi admirabl vi The church is of flint, and t e we 18 0 was e s e 18 h . . r tor d in 54, W to r in 7 Th e fine monume nt to Bridge t (die d daughte r and heire ss of William Hawtrey of f ‘ ue w o . e Cheq rs Court , and ife Sir H Crok , on ‘ w s not e e and th e ss S . all , hould be ov rlook d , bra , w s w 1 also on S . all , to Thoma Ha trey ( 54 4) his w e u is a and if , tho gh it not certain th t the figures are those refe rred to in th e in scription. s 1 th e e The cottage ( 7 century) at a littl distanc ,
and the are e . by the path side of the hill , inter sting mberton e 1 m w E . (Oln y Station, 5 ; Ne port is v Pagnell Station, 3§ m . ) a illage of some size 124 E LLE SBORO UGH— ETO N COLLEG E
th e n of o f on risi g ground S . the valley e ne th e the Ouse , almost opposit Ol y , conspi c uous spire o f whose church is s e e n through the tree s on the other side o f th e e e n n e w I n e of th e int rv i g m ado s . the c ntre village is a mode rn square clock tower
The church is o n high ground to S W . of th e e w e a c e villag , ith nav , aisles , ch n l ,
The we . c l e re story and por c hes . to r at W e nd be e a th e e should obs rved , lso d pth the w w w w of of lo er indo s , hich are earlier date than the uppe r ; also the detail o f th e cornice of th e c hancel with its grote sque e The w w e e h ads . chancel indo s of thr w lights contain some of th e be st D e c . or k the c e e th e in ounty , the delicat trac ry in h e ads o f the side windows be ing very agree - a e e e five . bl , mor attractiv than the light E w Th e w n . i do , good as it is rare carving w of e not on N . all chanc l should be over e e e w e for look d . The nav is rath r too id th e e but e w e e l ngth , tak n as a hol Emb rton fine c w is a chur h . I t contains on N . all o f e we — chanc l a ll preserved brass John Mordon , R e ctor Eton C olle e -1 g (Windsor Station , 2 Slough 111 Station, m Approaching from Slough one notes at “ th e e of I nn o n the th e Princ Wales , right of
u u t h e station . a Slo gh road , abo t a mile from , bran c h road whi c h leads to Salt Hill (J th e ” e e of th e sc n e old E ton masque rade of Mont m . The re has be en no c ere mony on the famous 12 5 BUCKI NGHAM SHI RE
18 w mound since 44, after hich year that royal - w and time honoured, but some hat disorderly, s festival wa abolished by Provost Hodgson . or Originally part of a religious initiatory rite, the procession had become a gorgeous fancy-dress “ ” - wh o pageant , and the Salt bearers , held u p travellers o n the surrounding turnpikes an d claimed money used to collect latterly 10 0 0 of of about ,4; for the expenses the Captain the School at Cambridge . The land on the l eft S hand ( . ) has been lately bought by the College , and contrasts unfavourably with the more famous fi w eld nearer Eton , hich is compl etely surrounded by el ms, and forms in consequenc e the most f beauti ul , but to cricketers not the most satis of - factory , English cric ket grounds . A very picturesque vi ew o f the soft reds and greys of the Coll ege buildings is gained from the second of the two littl e bridges over which the road passes ; and , beyond this brook the ” w — ou road runs between the historic all (S. ) the other side of which the annual struggl e b e
' tween the Collegers and Oppidans in the most — primitive o f all football -games takes plac e and “ w s the Field (N . ) ith its background of Five fe w - Courts . A old red brick houses on the l eft, “ ’ ” one labell ed Weston s to c omme mmorate “ ” where Bishop Weston li ved as Usher and “ w f 16 - 1 0 N e w Fello rom 93 7 9, the Schools ( 186 3) on the right and we are in the heart w of Eton . Every building ithin sight is occupied by the Coll ege and a fe w paces to the l eft bring ” s w u through the arch into the Schoolyard, here ,
on the right hand , stands the chapel . 126
ET ON COLLEG E
Only a sketch of the history of this most famous school can be attempted here . Built within touch of his favourite castl e o f Windsor “ by the pious King, Henry VI . , as the first e of o n o f pl dge his devotion to God, the lines ’ Wa nfl e te s its y Coll ege at Win chester, and , li ke model , closely bound to a Coll ege at the Uni “ ’ of a o f versity, The King s College our L dy ” Eton beside Windsor, as it is styled in the Royal o f Charter Foundation has come, i n spite o f f early attempts at su ppression , to hold the ore o m st position among public schools . As origi nally a planned, the royal Coll ege embraced semi nary for h secular pri ests , and, as adjuncts to t is, a school for boys and an al mshouse (lik e that at th e Charterhouse) for paupers ; but the school soon usurped the name and revenu es o f the older tripl e institution . M uch eccl esiastical circu mstan ce was thrown round the twin Colleges at Et on and w Cambridge by three Papal Bulls , hich the King f obtained rom Eugenius IV . , conferri ng special
“ i on priv leges Eton Church . Seventy poor f of of scholars ormed the nucl eus the school , six whom were brought from Winchester by Wayn of wa flete , M aster Winchester and after rds “ ’ ” of Provost Eton . The King s Scholars still number seventy ; but about them there n ow “ ” a cluster some thousand Oppidans , for a sm ll of W i number hom the Founder made prov sion . For many years after the laying of the first ” of ne w 1 1 stone the chapel , early in 44 , the dis mantl ed old parish c hurch of Eton nestled under s the buttresses of its stately succe sor , and the old — c hurchyard in whic h it stood part of th e present 12 7 BUCKINGHAM SHIRE
— Schoolyard was used for burials eve n in the “ 16 . e th century The chapel , in fact , continu d to be the parish church until late in the l gth 1 0 0 c entury . I n 5 the Coll ege buildings consisted “ ” o f old the chapel and hall , the kitchen , and
of . the greater part the N . and E sides of the cloisters the Collegers being probably housed o n e and taught the S . side of the pr sent School ” if w yard . The Oppidans , there ere any, lodged “ w two i n the to n ; and i nstructors , a Master “ h ” and Us er , controll ed the education . Addi s w Th e tion ere soon made to the buildings . ” w present Long Chamber, hich used to run the ” o f w . hol e l ength of the S side the Schoolyard, and at one time provided sl eeping accommodation “ ” for all the Collegers and the Lower School - w 1 0 0 0 . w ben eath it , ere erected in 5 5 T elve “ ” years later the E . side of the Schoolyard, containing a room intended for a library ’ and was c om the present Provost s Lodge , ple te d ; but the tower did not assume its present e e e 1 6 w pictur squ appearanc till 7 5, hen the clock was moved from on e of the chapel buttresses to its present position and the bell turret added . For n early two c enturies building remained at was w a standstill , though the school gro ing in of numbers . The turmoil the Civil Wars had ff on w littl e e ect the C oll ege, o ing to the scrupulous fidelity of the Fellows to whichever w party was in po er . They contributed ship w w money to Charles I . ith the same zeal ith w saw hich they John Rous , the Provost , made e 111 16 Speak r 53 , and finally elected to the Upper 128
BUCKINGHAM SH I RE
— Well esl ey and Wellington a microcosm o f all the brillianc e of the century in which the was o f empire being built . The genius her sons cannot perhaps be ascribed entirely to their w - w school training, although the ell kno n eulogy o f the playing - fie lds which is ascribed to
Wellington is not without authority . Not only were the masters as a body littl e capabl e o f or inspiring enthusiasm for classics character, but their numbers were ridiculously meagre and the sports with which the boys filled their f spare ti me were o ten degrading . The condition “ ” of Long Chamber was scandalous ; and th e w w ffi schoolrooms , hich ere su cient for the 2 0 0 16 80 w too fe w boys of , ere not thought ’ or too confined for the 80 0 of H awtrey s ’ time Yet some of Eton s not l east distinguished sons were educated under the mild w o f rul e of Goodall , and the holesome discipline f of Keate in the first hal last century . Shell ey as w , as might be expected , unhappy at Eton ; but Gladstone n ever lost his love for his “ ” o f glorious school . The memory Keate, that great headmaster without a mention of whom no sketch o f Eton can have any pretence to com le te ne ss p , is still green , though h e retired o f seventy years ago . Anecdotes his grotesqu e figure and ferocious temper are l egion ; but the ’ classical portrait of him occurs in his pupil s
Eotoen. The period of reform began with Dr Hawt rey “ 1 8 N e w in 34 . The Buildings , containing for e e w 18 6 extra rooms the coll g rs , ere built in 4 “ ” h e N ew w un t Schools , ith their Russian g , by 130 ETON COLLEGE
186 3 and large additions have been made in “ w c w the last t enty years , su h as the Lo er ” “ ’ ” ’ Chapel and the Queen s Schools i n K e ate s
Lane , the turning opposite the chapel . Only in flood ti m e does the accommodation now prove ffi 10 0 0 insu ci ent for the boys . M uch of the history o f E ton lies written i n c h a el her buildings , and the p is its best epitom e . The structure covers every c entury from the 1sth ’ th e 2 0th e e to . The founder s scheme proj ct d a ’ e e state ly fan as broad as King s Chap l , Cambridge , e fe e e — e and som thirty t long r as large , p rhaps , th e as many English Cathedrals , and unique in ’ e e e H e simpl grand ur of its d sign . But nry s pious ’ designs were rude ly upset by E dward I v. s suc e th e u e e cess s , and ch rch remain d half compl ted “ e (by a choir without a nav . The ante was e 1 - 1 82 c hape l add d 47 9 4 , as the only s e possible ubstitute for the visionary‘ nav , suffi cient funds not being forthcoming after the f ’ ounder s eclipse . The niches behind Provost ’ Goodall s stat ue are all that remain of the once
e - e f num rous pre R ormation altars . The screen was 188 2 of who built i n , i n memory Etonians e Z f w f ll in the ulu , A ghan and first Boer ars ; the respl endent organ is equally modern . After ’ Wayn fl e t e s design the interior of the nave was w low originally fitted ith , uncanopied stalls , leaving space b e low the string courses of the windows for Fl emish frescoes of saints and n w l egendary heroines . These early painti gs ere whitewashed by the College barber in 1 56 1 and w s at the same time the high altar a destroyed . In 17 0 0 they were pan ell ed over by Provost 13 1 B UCK INGHAM SH IR E
we re - e G odolphin , but re discover d in a damaged 18 t wo e e condition in 47 , and y ars later , in spit ’ of th e r c e n w e P in Co sort s e xertions, they er t e - e e th e re e a Th conc al d by p s nt canopied st lls . e mod e rn d e coration o f th e chape l is on the whole un Th e fine e w e e happy . l ctern , hich dat s at l ast from 1 8 the a m of e e 4 7 , and pl in to b Sir H nry Savill ,
1 6 - 16 2 2 o n th e wa e Provost 59 , S . ll ofth sacrarium are e e th e e th e int r sting , latt r from its contrast to e u of u laborate mon ment his s ccessor , Thomas ’ Moravius r w ( Mur ay) , hich faces it . L upton s c e on of e e hap l , the N . side the chap l , is d corated with th e re bus (th e l e tters L U P on a tun) o f th e Provost ( 1 50 4 in whose honour it was u th e w of c e are th e n e b ilt . On W . all this hap l am s o f wh o e the f E tonians f ll in South A rican War . f n o . Note the painti g Sir Galahad by G . F Watts , and tape stry r e pre se nting th e Adoration o f the — e e u e e . Magi , d sign d by B rn Jon s Of th e many brass e ffigl e s there now remain but those commemorating 1 a e e - 1 8 ( ) Thomas B rk r , Vic Provost , 4 9, N . f e e n o organ scr . 2 e t 1 0 w of ( ) H nry Bos , Provost , 5 3 , E . all u a e L pton Ch p l . de n e w 1 0 of ( 3 ) Richard Ar , F llo , 5 9, N . organ
scree n . r e D e 1 2 1 (4) Richard , L o d Gr y Wilton , 5 , S . c e e of o rgan s r n . W B ontrod of Windsor ( 5) illiam , Minor Canon , f r an c e e 1 2 2 o o . 5 , S . g s r n ith Fe llo w 1 N o f r an c e 6 m 2 . o S . ( ) Walter , , 5 5, g s re n ( 7 ) F emal e e ffigy (probably wife o f H e nry f c e 1 2 8 . o s e Smith), 5 , S organ r n 13 2
BUCKI NGHAM SHI RE
o n e meagre kennels the ground floor, a still mor - W N . we meagre cock loft in the . to r and the “ old w w - Lo er School , ere the only class rooms for provided the school , although the numbers had more than doubled in the preceding 17 0 “ N ow years . Upper School is only us e d on occasions when the greater part o f the school has o n e for to be coll ected in room , or Speeches during th e Christmas and Easter halves and on ’ of I II s the great festival King George . birthday, ” th of ld no . o w the 4 June The Library, used - for as a class room Sixth Form , and , as the block e w for b ars itness, corporal punishments , is also w w th e e ainscoted ith names , and solid staircas w e e l eading do n to the schoolyard carri s on the tal . f- About hal way along the N . side of the school
- yard there is an opening, Fourth Form Passage, ’ ” w l eading to Weston s Yard, and ithin it a door f of on the l e t . This door l eads to the domain the w “ w ” lo er master, Lo er School , built in the first of years Henry VI I I . The incongruous double row o f Jacobean pillars which adorn i t wer e set 16 0 up by Provost Sir Henry Wotton abou t 3 , to f “ ” support the floor o Long Chamber . They ’ we e Wo tto n s r hung, according to Isaak Wal ton , at e xpense with pictures of the most famous orators o f was and historians Greece and Italy . Wotton contemporary as a Fellow with the ever - me mor wh o abl e John Hal es , lies buried in the church yard under a square sarc 0 ph agus sadly worn by o n of time . The staircase the right Fourth ” “ e Form Passage l eads up to Long Chamb r, “ now divided into rooms and cubicl es or stalls . Within the memory o f men now living it was 13 4 ETON COLL EGE
f e nd f open rom end to , and contained fi ty beds , and by the side of each the tall lead -coloured d e sk which held all the worldly goods o f the colleger . ’ of w East the schoolyard , beyond Lupton s To er, lie Th e w the cloisters . three sides , hich contain ’ the Provost s Lodge with its gall e ry of eminent w ’ Etonians , the (Fello s ) L ibrary and the Head ’ th e master s house , are private . On S . side stands the Hall ( 144 8 o n e of the earliest o f the e Colleg buildings , and in the main unal tered e Th e e o f sinc its erection . fir places are part the e e 16 - e original structur , and arly th century pan l un Th e e ae v ling runs ro d the walls . m di al c haract e r of th e building is re fl e cte d in th e L atin grac e whi c h is still ch ant e d be fo re e e e e e e e meals . Som alt rations have b n mad r c ntly, and the high - pitche d roof and P e rpe ndic ul ar W w n w e the e e e . i do , as w ll as scr n b hind th e f are a e e . high table , b r ly fi ty y ars old D ownstairs is th e old kitche n with its e laborate 18th - u e e o f th e u e cent ry spit , wh re a r lic r d r habits of e arli e r days can b e see n in one of th e two - sided platte rs forme rly used in
Hall . Th e buildings whi c h stand apart from the and e not a school yard cloist rs do cl im a long visit , with the e x ception of th e S chool Hall in “ ” was e e e e Cannon Yard . This r ct d in m mory of old boys who fe ll in the war in S o uth A Th e n w fri c a . S chool L ibrary i s o in an adjoining building . Most visitors will have s e en e nough of Eton in th e c u chapel and the buildings whi h s rround it . we ve h e e t Those, ho r , w o d sir to ex end their 13 5 BUCKINGHAM SHI RE
e survey can enter the playing fi lds , and take the w w o r al k through them to ards Datchet , in the reverse direction follow Common L ane to the ’ school drill hall (right hand). K eate s L ane diverges into Eton Wic k Road on the right, in which are the old Fives Courts and to e w o n f w e South M ado Lane the le t , here in ord r o n r - the right are laboratory, conce t room and “ ” o n f w science school , the l e t , L o er Chapel , a w - fo r plain but ell proportioned structure , built the ’ f w Blomfield s our hundred lo er boys , from designs 8 1 1 . o f i n 9 , and music room The houses the ’ e masters are chiefly grouped round Keat s L ane . E tbor e Edro y p (Domesday, p), a haml et in the of n parish Waddesdo , possessed a fine Manor o f House, the home the Dynhams , Dormers wh o w and Stanhopes , successively o ned the
. was w 18 12 manor It pull ed do n i n , by the then of d was a c h a el Earl Chesterfiel . To it attached p , w e was in hich the founder , Rog r Dynham , buried f e f a ter being remov d rom Waddesdon church . was w 1 8 This chapel pul led do n i n 73 , and all ’ traces of Sir Roger Dynham s burying place we r e few w e f lost until a years ago, h n a stone co fin e was on containing his r mains found , and i t a w ffi w now slab ith the e gy in brass , hich is in E th or e Wadd e sdon church (f ee). At y p are the fine hous e and b e auti ful gardens o f Miss
Rothschild .
Farnbam R o al . y (Slough , 3 m ) is a prosperous o n th e l e s o f vi llage upper p the Thames Vall ey . After the Conquest the manor was given to Bertrand de Verdon on the condition of provid ’ ing a glove and putting it o n the king s right 136
EYTH O R PE— FAWL EY
i hand at the coronation , and supporting his r ght w th e was arm , hil e royal sceptre in his hand , and f h rom t is tenure by Grand Sergeantry, Farnham ” obviously received the epith e t of Royal . e n d of The church is at the S . the principal street . I t has been so much restored that there is littl e o r nothing l e ft o f the origi nal building . a on e a c e A sm ll window the N . sid of the ch n l ,
d a a n th e e E E. an o . . e piscin S sid , , app ar to b h e a Th e old w e t e c e . hi f r m ins font , ith t e w e n e w oc agonal st m and bo l , is ornam t d ith a e w are u re f e c f p n ls , in hich q at oils n losing a our e c of e leave d flow r . A brass ins ription som w of e — e e e . int r st is on E all S . aisl both aisl s and — pillars are mod e rn comme morati ng Eustac e M asc o ll c e th e w d a W , l r k of ork s to Car in l olsey u c xf r Piste ll Re a e r (at Christ Ch r h , O o d), and d e in Windsor Castl (d . e o f e The c iling the chanc l is old . a wl m — F e . y (Henley, Oxon , 3 ) Domesday ,
al el ei — - F . This village is in the high country above the Thames Vall ey . The church is quite f unimportant . None o its older portions are l eft w ex cept the to er , but the monument to Sir Jam e s and Lady White lo c ke with r e cum e ffi ie s e o f e bent g , is a notic abl e example Jacob an
e tc . scul pture ; nor should the carvi ng of pulpit , , by Gibbons be overlooked . w e on o f th e Fa l y Court the S . parish close — . e a familiar to the Thames the larg red house , obj ect to those wh o have be e n to H e nl e y — c fo r Regatta is archite turally important , i t was buil t on the site of th e M anor House in ’ 16 8 th e 4 after Wren s designs . During Civil I 3 7 BUCKI NGHAM SHIRE
War the Manor House was the property of Bulstrode White loc ke ( 16 0 5 and in 16 42 ’ was who occupied by Prince Rupert s troops , did so much damage that the house was never again occupied . I t was rebuilt by Bulstrode White ’ 16 88 lock e s son , and sold by hi m i n . ‘ Fenn Stra ord Ble tc hl e 1 —A y tf ( y, smal l and w w uninteresting market to n , ith a long main street in which are a fe w old houses . Around and o f at the N . end this some modern houses have w formed a smal l to n . The church , at N . end in was red brick in debased Gothic styl e , built in 1 0 w e th e was 7 3 , and here Bro n Willis , antiquary, 1 6 0 of w buried i n 7 . At the S . end the to n , f th e Roman remains have been ound , indicating f - existence o a Romano British village .
Fin ert . N E. 6 . g (75 m . Henl ey, and 5 m W N . w w . M arlo ) is a small village lying, ith w of Turvill e half a mil e a ay, at the head the Hambl eden Valley sheltered by the beech -wooded
Chilterns . The church has a large square
N orman tower at W . end with doubl e pack 1 th 6 0 e saddl e roof ( 3 century). It is f et high , and is divided into three stages ; good doubl e w w o n o f indo s each side upper stage , the detail
w E . E i n each varying ; the lo est stage has an . w w o f w W . indo , the details hich are very per w we feet . The narro nave is divided from the to r - In . w by a fin e semi circular arch . the S all are w w o n e o ne two . Dec indo s , original , modern in w w w w the N . all a small indo and arch ay, blocked ,
w E . E w o n . ith an . door ay the exterior The chancel was restored i n 1849 ; the original walls w w e t h e remain . The E . indo is lat Dec . ; in 138
BUCKI NGHAM SHI RE was e 16 1 H e was o f rected in 3 . lord the manor o f e e Ful mer, servant to Qu en Elizab th and
ff . e co erer to King James I and Charl s I . G aw t ott 1 w ( Buckingham , 5m . ) is a haml et ith n a modern church , and is only interesti g as having been the birthplace o f Sir Gilbert Scott ( 18 1 1 t e f was h architect . His ather the first e e e of aw p rp tual curat G cott, and Scott in his R eeolleeti onr gives some sketches o f his native e w villag and its peopl e, hich are interesting as pictures o f rural life in this county at the b e o f See Introduc ginning the last century . also tion , p . 34 . Ga hur N st e w . y ( port Pagnell , 3% m ) is a parish w u u ithout a village . Gayhurst Ho se and ch rch are e e e th e close tog th r , on rising ground S . sid of e f o f f w Ous Valley, l e t hand main road rom Ne port e Pagn ll to Northampton . The church is a w w 18th - retched building, sho ing much century was 1 2 8 rubbish , and buil t in 7 . I t contains a realistic monument by R o ubiliac of Sir Nathan 16 e f Wright ( 54 Lord Keeper, a succ ss ul w w bu t not remarkabl e la yer, hose son , George
e o f 1 0 . Wright , purchas d the estate Gayhurst in 7 4 f e The figures are li e size , the Lord Keep r i n f w c his robes . A more interesting amily hi h is consid e rably connected with Gayhurst was that of the Digbys . Sir Everard Digby, by marriage w M o ulso ith M ary , became its possessor in 1 6 h e 59 . Both and his son are historical
th e one f e th e e e . characters , un ortunat , oth r fortunat F e s e u or e e . . furth r d tails the Introd ction , p 47 Gay hurst H ouse is th e fine st e xampl e of 16th - c e ntury e e dom sti c architecture in North Buck s . The old st 140 GAWCOTT— GRANDBOROUGH
s l u 1 0 0 e portion wa probably bui t abo t 5 . N arly nd of the e at th e e c ntury William Mulso , t h e w th e e u ne w e o ner at tim , b ilt a hous , and aft e r th e fashion of the age it was planne d in th e form of an E in honour of th e th e r we ue e e e n . o Q n , the arli r part formi g S lo r wing and th e ne w porch forming the c e ntre limb . 1 2 e W w In 7 5 G orge right , of hom mention s e e e th e th e h a already be n mad , fill d up space at ba c k of th e E by adding a dining - room and a
- e e u ball room abov , and a grand staircas . Th s th e garde n front illustrate s th e architecture of 18th th e e of th e 16 th the , as main front do s that , the e e ce ntury . In gard n is a sundial engrav d
‘ th e e 16 0 th e of with dat , 7 , and motto the “ ” ue une e th e o f Digbys , Nul q , and n ar front th e e e e w e house a monum ntal p d stal , ith som “ line s To th e M e mory of a B e a utifully Mottl e d ” c w of the 1 Peaco k , follo ing a quaint fashion 7 th and 18 e e th c nturi s . ’ d s r ow G W 8C G C wa Gerr ar C . . ( . . Rail y) is a e e h w pl e asant common and ccl siastical paris , hich forms a us e ful c e ntre for e x cursions into the u n n u u e s rrou di g country thro gh B lstrod Park , to e e — and Chalfont St P t r to F ulmer Stok e . A mode rn district chur c h has be e n built at th e S W w ar . . side of the common , upon hich at v ious points s e ve n roads conve rge . ' Granaoor ou b e 1 m g is a poor villag ( & . from a e a u e Th e st tion) among larg p st r s . church stands on h th e igh ground at S . E . of village , and is mark e d lik e so many chur c h e s in this imme diate r c th e e a w e e dist i t by P . d t ils hich hav been add d 14 1 BUCKI NGHAM SHI RE
w . w at a late date The E . indo is the be st the w of e th e e door ay on the N . side chanc l has dat 1 589
. e e e on it Note the small alabast r pan l in the chanc l , th e 1 - and 5th century chrismatory . G rendon U nder wood e W e e G . 8c (A k man Str t , . 2 was o ld u % m . ) in records Grendon nder Bernwode e w b , a nam hich descri es its position in the low- e w the lying m ado s , not far from high e r th e W w . B ground to , in hich began e rnwood e A it F or st . local couplet says of
G re nden U n de rwode
The e s o n a e ve s o e dirti t t w th t r t d ,
—as hunting men with the Bicester Hounds have — before now found it yet in summer time it is a pl easant straggling village among the green o f w 0 luxuriant elms and hedgero s . Th e church ( ) is of at the W . end the village . It has only a nave, w P w chancel and W . to er, . , ith a turret , and an E E w o n . . door ay S . side . There is a noticeabl e 18th - c entury monument in the chancel to John Pigott of D odde rsh all (died 17 51) by Schee o f fe w off mak er . On right , and a yards , the road to wa w Aylesbury, half y do n the village , is a o f h portion an old house , once the S ip Inn , and ’ nu now called Shakespeare s house . It is ques tionabl of y an interesting bit domestic architecture , of 16 th probably the century, but tradition has it that Shakespeare used to stay here on his way to f w M ueé d do a bout and rom London , and here rote ' ’ N M drummer N i ot r Dr eam otbing and A z g . The o n of story is chiefly based a statement Aubrey, wh o e w w - the antiquarian , liv d ithin t enty six ’ “ years of Shakespeare s death . He says , The ' humours of the constabl e in A M zdrummer 142
BUCK INGHAM SHI RE made some what similar earthworks in the north ’ w , of Hadr_ ian s Wall from the Sol ay to the mouth o f U rbic us w the Tyn e, and that Lollius bet een w of the Forth and Clyde, and the all Antoninus . “ ” w The limes imperii , hich extended from the w on e Rhine to the Danube , and hich in part ran along the summit of the Taunus Range in ’ Germany, is not unlike Grim s Dyke . Some ti m e after the expeditions o f Aulus
A . D was Plautius , in . 4 3 , it possibly considered advisabl e to construct a fortification at some distance from the summit o f the Chiltern range w th e of f w th e belo thickest bel t orest, and here e w f country becam l ess ooded and more ertil e . But it is p e rhaps more likely that in this earth — work we have a relic o f the Saxon age a relic o f the war fare between the several kingdoms— and ff ’ that it may remind us , lik e O a s Dyk e in the w o f e est , the cont st for supremacy among our w Saxon ancestors . For here could the advance of the me n o f M ercia be better resisted than on of the long lin e the Chiltern Hills . On the e other hand, it has been suggest d that this Dyke f is not a ortification at all , sinc e i t does not run along the edge of the hills and in ancient times the n earer to the escarpment of a hill the fortific a w tions ere made , the stronger they became . Therefore it is said i t was no more than a terri to t ial boundary o f the Saxons . In this state o f doubt this interesting arch aeological question must f o f w therefore b e l e t . Nor the ord Gri m has a
f . satis actory explanation been given It may, it “ ” th e w w is said , be no more than Saxon ord itch , thus suggesting that before the Conquest this 144 G RI M ’S DYKE— HADDEN HAM work was considered to be of supernatural origin . It should be born e in mind that th e re are several w th e similar, but l ess important , orks in south ’ o f h of w . England , eac hich is called Gri m s Dyk e '
Or i iner C eltzea . 1 Dr Guest ( g , I I , 49) assu mes a the name to m e n a boundary ditch , but this w has been recently sho n to be quite illusory , R En . H ist . ea . 11. . 6 2 Stevenson ( g , vol xv , p 9) is i nclin ed to regard Grim as a personal name . was th e Grim a common name among Danes , “ if Wo de n w s w e . a h nce Grimsby Again , also kno n was among the Pagan English as Grim , as he e we among the Nors men , might conclude that Grimes -di e was merely the equival e nt of Wodn es ” dic .
G r ove 2 . (Leighton Buzzard , m ) is a parish f 1 with a population o only 9. I t has a small and
w c . unimportant church , hi h contains an old font add nbam G C w H e ( . Rail ay) is a large and we e e a . important villadg n arly %2 mile long The lo r rs h e part calle Churc End , the upp r part is e o f T own e nd e dignified by the nam . Ex c pt its size there is nothing specially notic e abl e in are of Haddenham . The houses n early all buil t W or W o f w hat is call ed mud i chert , a speci es hite w clay, hich dries into hard blocks and mak es good w . alls The c hurch is a striking building, facing E E w e the large green , the . . to er b ing the best of speci men in the county a tower i n this styl e .
I t has a good arcade round the upper storey, and w on - w w belo , W . face , is a three light indo . The w o f chancel arch , hich is an interesting piec e N Transitional . , seems to be the most ancient part K 145 BUCKINGHAM SH I R E no w re Th e c e E E . . e are maining ar h s and pi rs . , e D P . e are e e . as is the chancel Th r . and w w e e D e c . indo s on ach sid , and a porch . The e e the w w font is lat N . In spit of P . indo s Hadd e nham chur c h r e mains a fi ne r e lic of
. w of e arly Gothic archi t e cture . On the S all the Lady Chapel is th e hal f e fligy o f a pri e st in (c . and incorrectly placed under i t an G lls Wo dbr e scription to y yg and Elizabeth , his w fe e fli ie s w . i , the g belonging to hich are lost On the same wall is another brass commemorating
N assh 1 2 8 . Thomas , priest , 4 H alton is a pictur e sque group o f cottag e s in the o f 2 o f e park Halton House , m . N . W ndover . 18 1 The church built in 3 , is charmingly w w situated , but is very ugly ithin and ithout . th e w o f On N . all chancel , behind hangings , is a ffi of Bradsh awe f of brass e gy Henry , Chie Baron 1 the E xchequer, 553 . Halton House is a conspicuous obj ect betwee n the village and the Chilterns . The fine shrub h are w of eri es and plantations orthy notice . Homaleden m 1 f (Henl ey, 3} . ; and m . rom Thames Hambleden Lock) is a beautiful piec e of e - w landscap , the red roofed cottages , ith w w f - f dormer i ndo s and so t toned roo s , having a o f background rich foliage and rising hill . So w w ooded is the parish that Lipscomb, riting in 18 w 1 2 0 0 47 , says that there ere then about acres o e f beec hwoods . It is plac d qui te in the hollow o f w e the valley, and a charming Vie is gain d on the road from Hambl eden Lock . The Manor of House, Opposite E . end church , is a marked w f feature , ith its high gables rising rom the ivy . 146
BUCKINGHAM SHI RE
’ den s time , and the church still standing in the of w o ne shade the surrounding trees , under hich sees the pl easant prospect of the extending park . Both church and house are inseparably associated w of ith the family Hampden , and more especially w For roe ith the patriot . ( John Hampden , In t roduc tion . , p The Hampden family possessed the estates from w w was the Conquest , hen Bald yn de Hampden 1 w in possession , till 7 54, hen through female descent they passed to a cousin , the Honourabl e wh o o f Robert Trevor, took the name and arms 18 2 Hampden . In 4 the Honourable George of Robert Hobart , sixth Earl Buckinghamshire, H am de ns the n ext heir of the p , succeeded to the on 18 property, and bequeathed it his death , in 49, w to his nephe , George Hampden Cameron . — a e w low But although the house larg , hite, — battl emented building stands o n the elevated site (7 00 feet) of the old mansion of the H ampde ns this was almost entirely pulled down and rebuilt — in 17 54 the existing building cannot therefore w in detail be associated ith John Hampden , nor of does i t contai n anything in the nature pictures , prints or furniture which can be connected with him . Queen Elizabeth stayed here o n one of h er numerous progresses , and there is a tradition that she suggested that a way should be cut through w w the oods , hich is said to have given the ’ of present avenue the name the Queen s Gap . ’ Hampden is the Burnham o f Black s novel of
The church (key at thatched cottage across 148
BUCKI NGHA M SHI R E
the H am de ns of - e e a e e to p a long d part d g . Near st the “ a -railsare e e ffi ie s of H am de n e s u e r ltar th brass g John p , q y ff ” . e w e . (d and E lizab th , hys y This is the oldest th e e Hampden monument in church . On anoth r slab, e th e of th e c h ancel is armour with n ar middle , a knight in , two e e w . his iv s This is Sir John Hampd n (d . H am den L ittle e e e of a p , (G r at Miss nd n , 3 consists ve r small ch urch and fe w e e y , a scatt red farms and cottag s . Th e u 0 f e ch rch ( ) is m . N . o th main road from Missen de n th e . e e to Risborough , on W sid ofa valley v ry char acte ristic of th e e w w Chilt rn H ills , ith its oods and light a e e e fe u of ar bl land . I t has scarc ly any archit ctural at res e e h owe ve r a re e int rest . Not , , markabl piscina and a small e o f on th e w of e figur an ecclesiastic S . all chanc l . The mural paintings bro ught to light in 190 7 are important e e e be th e e e r e e . w th r app ar to four s ri s , the a li st is on E all of th e e o n e e re d u Th e e nav a d p gro nd . figur of St e e e e th e of th e Christoph r is four tim s r peat d , that to W .
. w th e e e e e a N door ay in nav is an arly xampl , and prob bly he e dates from t latter part ofth e re ign of H nry I I I . (On e se e R ecor ds o B ueér this subj ct f , vol . ix . p . Ham/o e e r e 1 m — in e a p (Castl tho p , 35 . ) Dom sd y, H ame sc le — a e e e e u I t is a l rge villag on a br zy plat a . is e to th e rde of orth am tonshire and th e clos bo rs N p , co unt ry around r e pre s e nts the pure ly midland part of E ngland rathe r than th e wide m e adows o f Ce ntral B uc k in h amshire f w of t he e are e . e c g A older cottag s that h d , but re d bricks and bl ue slate s are gradually ousting th e e a th e e e 1 c l ss modern m terial . In middl of th 9th entury a e e - H nslope contain d many lac mak e rs . L ipscomb says 0 0 we e w e h e w e e a e 5 persons r , h n rot , ng g d in this a -da e re are e a occup tion ; to y th not mor th n fifty . A fte r th e Conquest the manor was pre s e nte d e e Wine war to a soldi r from F land rs named , and late r we h e ar of Michae l de Hanslope being 150 LITTLE HAM PDE N— HANSLOPE
e e e its poss ssor , and his daught r carri d it by marriage t o th e Mauduit family Th e name o f t he manor in D ome sday cannot we ll by any e u e e ing n ity be d e ve lop d into Hanslop , and it is probabl e that Hanslope retains th e appe llation of the most important of its me die val lords . Th e u w e e e u ch rch , ith its sl nd r and grac f l e c u f f one spir , is onspic ous rom a ar . It is of the thre e church e s of th e county which e e e th e hav spir s , and it is unqu stionably most e of th e e e e w admirabl thr . The spir , hich is e e e f w e n arly all mod rn , ris s rom a est rn towe r ( 15th c e ntury) supported by four flying e e e e buttr ss s t rminate d by crock ted pinnacles . e e w The chanc l arch is a fine pi ce of N . ork , and is supported by four pillars with e nriche d
s l . w n ca loped capitals The S . all retai s its 12 th - de bl c onsr ra e . century design, y r stored Th e f th e e o . S . door chanc l has good N
th e . w zigzag ornament , and S all has on r e e the outside a co b l table , partly of b aded e o f e e e ornam nt and partly grot squ h ads , w six e we e e hilst high pillars , having b t n th m e e w h h e e e are round d arch s , hic ave b en r stor d , e e un Th e u notic abl and usual . North and S o th c e are e t - Por h s lat 15 h century wor k . Th e pr e se nt chur ch s e ems to have be e n 11 0 Th e founded about 7 . north and south e w e the 1 e aisl s er added in 3 th c ntury , and the oth e r parts mostly in th e 14th and 15th i e centur s . 151 BU CK INGHAM SH I RE
th e s ffi To N . of the font is a mall brass e gy of a — u e of h child Mary , da ght r T omas Birchmore e e S v ral other brasses may be noted , and 1 - e e some 5th c ntury mural paintings in the nav . e - u e of e the a Thre q art rs a mil to S . E . of the vill ge e e w is Hanslop Park , a small , pl asant and ell e e timb r d park . H ardmead is a s e cl ude d place close to the bord e rs o f B e dfordshire in a quie t agric ultural d of e w istrict , to north main road from N port to B Th e e 0 w ne . dford . church ( ) (Ne port Pag ll , 5 m ) is in a ple asant umbrage ous spot ne ar the Manor e two H ouse , and , though small , has a nav , aisles ,
and . w . a w e W to er (c I t cont ins , ho ev r , a e a — a e in N . isle a notic ble monument recumb nt of nc t and on figure Fra is Ca esby a brass , e e d e w . n all of N . aisl , E , of F rancys Cat sby a we - e th e e n ll portray d figure , fur of the rob bei g a n admirably dr w . - - H ardwick A e u . w e ( yl sb ry , 3 3 m ) is a ell group d — village th e houses cl uste re d round th e church on a littl e e minence just off the main road from Aylesbury
he . to Winslow ; on t E is a valley of meadows . Th e c hurch is interesting because the nave is - e e D e c probably ofpre Conqu st dat the windows ( . ) e are e w e in S . aisl not orthy . Not a good monument
L e e e 16 16 . to Sir R . , di d a rle r d M ano 1 H o r w . yf (Marlo , % m ) is a con spic uous object on a d e lightful sid e stre am of th e e e Thame s be tween T mpl e and Hurl y Locks . The sober and time - coloure d re d brick harmonis e s agre e ably with the fine timbe r which forms the a e w e b ckground . The hous , hich is plac d on an was 1 artificial mound , and built in 7 55 from 152
HARD M EAD— HA RTWELL
e e e o f d signs by Sir Rob rt Taylor , an archit ct e e consid rable reputation in his tim , has a curious f s e micircular projection on its river ront . Its plain simplicity i s an agreeabl e contrast to t he nume rous domestic buildings of the pre sent day e w ff on the Tham s , ith their ine ective straining to be e ue pictur sq . H ar twell H e rde we lle D omesday, (Ayles we bury , m . ) consists to all intents of the Hart ll u e w H o s and Park , and the church hich stands in the N W e Th e s the grounds to . . of the hous , L ee , w - w f e already a ell kno n Buck s amily , cam into e th e 16 1 e a poss ssion of property in 7 , and hav ret ined A th e e of it to this day . mong memb rs a capable
c e e . L e e wh o family the most noti abl is Sir W , e u e 1 1 b came L ord Chi e f J stic in 7 3 7 , and in 7 54 the u e e Chancellor of E x cheq er , but di d in the sam Sir th e e e e year . Thomas L ee built pr sent hous arly e in th e 17th century on th e site of on much older. On the staircase are twenty- four curious figures e e e e l e the e r pr s nting H rcu s , F airi s , and Knights w w r carved in oak , hich probably e e placed there w was u Th e ue hen the house b ilt . banq ting hall is now e of f u a mus um ossils and E gyptian c rios , and there are a numbe r of family portraits . Th e e e most noticeabl are by Vandyck , L ly and Rey nolds A e . good view of Hartwell Hous is obtained from the footpath to Stone (see). Hart w a of e e e ell has obt ined a kind fam , b caus L ouis e XV I I I . lived there from 180 9 until his r turn e 18 1 Th e e we to F ranc in March 4 . gard ns re originally laid out in the formal styl e with t e rraces w e and an artificial lake , hich still r mains , though e ta e the garden has been put into a mor natural s t .
I 531 BU CK I NGHAM SHI RE
The of n e e was u church is no i t r st . I t b ilt by Sir
. L e e of th e 8 e u W (fourth Bart . ) at the end 1 th c nt ry o n the e site of an anci nt church . I t is an imitation o f the Chapte r H ous e at York and of th e ceiling ’ of e e K ing s Colleg , Cambridg . H a ven /Jam n 1 a e (Wolverto , % m . ) is a small vill g in a seclude d hollow in a we ll - c ultivat e d and varie d m t nshire N ortha o . district , not far from p Th e 0 of e e church ( ) is the only point int r st . I t e e th e e e is d lightfully situat d above villag , surround d e we but not overshadowed by fine tre s . The to r and of e are N th e th e u part the nav . , rest of b ilding is of e e e e th e u fu 1 th lat r dat . Not specially bea ti l 4 e e w c century monument on N . sid of chanc l , hi h is e w e probably that of E lizabeth , L ady Russ ll , hos
was u e Kut. fourth husband Sir John R ss ll , She had previously married , firstly, R obert L ord e of R o th e rfie ld e Gr y ; s condly, Sir John Clinton , Kut de . ; and , thirdly , Sir John Birmingham, and by h e r will dire cte d her body to be e e c buri e d in Haversham church . B n ath a ri hly e w e e th e Dec . canopy lies , carv d in hit alabast r , — fig ure of an age d woman h e r dre ss has be e n — worked with singular care b e ne ath are high the of the relief figures . In floor chancel e w e e is a brass , consid rably orn , r pr senting a e e e sk l ton , a m morial to John Maunsell on w e m e and the S . all is anoth r co m morating e w e 1 2 a Alic , if of Thomas Payn, 4 7 . In
th e 1 - c s field E . of 7 th entury Manor Hou e , w e w hich is clos to the church , is a dovecot ith th e 1 6 date 6 5. d e H awri ge (church 3 m . from Ch sham) con sists of some scatte r e d house s with th e long 154
BUCKI NG HAM SHI R E
Th e e d e e fragments of a shi l , ngrav d w n now ith a representation of the Resurrectio , are the s kept at the Rectory . On N . side are brasse f of Robert F ulmer and Joanna , his wi e s now w There is a curiou relic , framed , hich , e according to tradition , is a piec of a cloak of w as Charles I L , hich he gave an altar cloth . Th e octagonal font P with the Tudor rose and small r e lie fs of faces probably cut on a 1 2 th
c e u w e . nt ry bo l , is int resting H edsor I (Bourne End Station , i m . ) is a w o f parish hich has no village, but the interest w hich is centred in Hedsor Park and church . The house is built on the site o f the old Manor o n House , in i mitation of a castl e , the su mmit of a ff hill , and is not ine ective in the landscape . w The church is on another hill ithin the park , to o f the S . the house . It has no architectural value , the arches and piers being all that i s left of e the original medi val church . The quaint w f dovecot belfry and the arm roo , the trees about it and the distant views over Cookham and the of th e w valley Wye give it , ho ever, a character o f o wn is e w f its . I t r ached by a path ay rom the drive which enters from the Taplow and e h o are Wooburn Road . F or thos w boating it is pl e asant to land at the stage of the weir w w close to Cookham Lock , and follo the path ay to the road . This wal k can only be taken by wh o for those are actually going to the church, w w other ise strangers are not allo ed to land . o f f Note in passing the luxurianc e the oliage, and especially a spl endid specimen of cupressus L aw soniana w , sho ing the fine nature of this commonly 156 HEDSO R— HILLE SDE N
ffi used but insu ciently appreciated tree . As to - w the Romano British pile d elling, discovered in 18 0 95, near Cookham Lock , s ee Introduction p . 3 . Hillesden m — in (Buckingham , 3§ . ) Domesday, — Th e Ilesde n e . absurd way i n which o ur fore fathers derived the meaning of plac e names is ’ well illustrated by Browne Willis ass e rtion that w w of Hillesden signifies the do ny hill , hereas ,
t e rminatiofi . . for w course, the dene is A S a hollo and the prefix Il e is probably the name of a e b e person . Hillesden may, p rhaps , considered out- of- - wa the most the y plac e in the county . h two The churc , the parsonage and a cottage or form the centre of a parish of abou t 2 0 0 in W w f habitants , hil e the road , hether rom Preston w Bisset or Ga cott , is through grass fields and lines of To o f gates . the E . from the corner the churchyard there is a way over grass through an w avenu e a mil e long, hich disappears i n an aim o f f low- i e w l ess sort ashion into the ly ng m ado s . f f At the end , a ter a turn to the l e t among w w f hedgero s , the ay arer comes u pon a reedy of w tri butary the Ouse, and is greeted ith a notice that the ford which he has reach ed w is dangerous for vehi cl es . Ho ever, there is a safe footbridge and then a good road to
Verney Junction . But i n this remote place is w the finest P . church in the county, ith the ’ o f exc eption only Maids Moreton . The tithe of the church belonged to the monks of Notley was Abbey , and i t by them that the present was s church built . A complain t wa made at the ’ Bishop s visitation in 1493 that the church was of very ruinous , and that the Abbot Notl ey ought I S7 BUCKI NGHAM SHI RE to f amend it , and he there ore rebuil t it , and his work remains whil e scarcely a stone is l e ft o f the abbey by the Thame . w of w The eak part the building is the to er, w of a e e hich is poor, and p riod earli r than the body ’ o f w the church , hich , to use Sir Gilbert Scott s “ w e of e ords , is an exquisite sp cimen the lat st f ” phase o Gothic art . The elementary idea o f this church is a nave with small transepts and e e a chanc l , but a chantry chapel being add d to
. of of e w the N the chancel the same l ngth ith it, of two w and a sacristy storeys , ith a large stair o n e f o f th e turret in corn er, the uni ormity first sch e me is lost . E xternally the two most striking f N E eatures are the porch and the . . stair w on e o f turret , hich is the fin est in E ngland . The i nterior is harmonious and uni form in treat th e w m ent , arches and supporting columns bet een the chan c e l and chantry being especially notice
e . e of abl The rood scre n , same date as the e church , is remarkable It has three arch d bays , e f w e of each subdivid d into our lights , ith trac ry gr e at beauty . I n the chancel is a fine monument ( 1555) to Thomas Denton and his lady (he died in 156 0 ) o f th e o f alabaster, and having all character
Renaissanc e work . I nteresting also is the old stain ed glass in th e w w of 1 E . indo , containing figures sa nts , bishops w e and popes , hich has b en regarded by authorities of 1 as work done at the end the 5th century . Still more noteworthy is the glass in the fo ur uppe r
o f th e w w t e . w lights E . indo of h S transept , hich has e c t e w be n alled h S t Nicholas indo w. In this are 158
BUCKI NGHA MSHI RE dignified churc h and the tiny parish to which it belongs . Hitt bam w 1 m — (Taplo Station , . ) Domesday, — H uc h e h am. The old church is its c hi ef attrae tion (key at schoolhouse close by), and is delight fully situated . The churchyard is enclosed by an old low - w 16 8 1 , , red brick all ( On the - o f right hand side the road running W . there is a
w . pl easant vi e to the N over Hitcham Park , and
- N E. low w to the . , overlooking t he lying all ed f gardens o the old Manor House . There are no of w 160 2 remains the fine mansion here , in , Queen Knt Elizabeth visited Sir William Clark e, . , and which at a later date was own ed by the noted w wh o physician and riter, Dr John Friend , is famous as on e of the remarkabl e grou p of men of letters and statesmen wh o were gath e red round Harl ey and Bolingbrok e in the last years o f the o f reign Queen Anne . More fortunate than most o f f his Tory ri ends , he obtained an appointment of e in the Court G orge I . N was The church , originally . , rebuilt in the w w o f 1 . . 4th century . Note the fin e Dec E indo w t wo e e four lights , ith large quatr foils and a whe l e w above th m , filled ith old stained glass (c . more fragments of which will be se en in the w h h e r other windo s in chancel . T ese ave slend w e e a columns ith ornam nt d capit ls . High up in w u u w w the S . all note the c rio s circular indo , e the w rec e ntly restor d , and in same all a
fine N . the piscina and sedilia . A arch divides n e a e chancel from ave . Not in l tt r four N . - two . S . the c windows , blocked , N and also arved
w the . pul pit ith canopy , and in vestry , N of 16 0 HITCHAM— HOGSTON
old of chancel an chest . In the floor chancel are old w w som e encaustic til es . The Dec . i ndo w w was over W . door ay in to er originally i n the - w o f nave The deeply moulded door ay S . porch has a fine oak door with large loc k and key and handsome designs in iron work . On w o f e N . all chanc l is an alabaster monument to e Sir W . Clarke (di d Under a canopy, each side o f which a knight holds back a marbl e cur f - e f of tain , is the li e sized r cumbent e figy a man w in armour, and belo , in front , are other figures , e f w mal and emal e , kneeling . On the S . all e opposite is a monument to Rog r Alford, (died 1 80 two w 5 ) kneeling figures , man and oman , and h e e w children behind . On t chanc l floor is a ell e 1 1 preserved brass to Nicholas Clark , 55 . The ffi e gy depicts a man in armour, his head resting on f t wo on a shield ; to his l e t , sons, and right a th e of two daughter . In floor nave are brass
e fli ies . w g of Thos Ramsey and his ife Margaret, 1 10 w 5 , and belo their four sons and three daughters . H o erton w m — gg (Winslo Station , 3}4 . ) D omesday, — H oche stone is a small village half a mile from w w the main road , bet een Aylesbury and Winslo , o n high ground . The church has been restored . Note ( 1) the old porch with the now worn 2 w w timber ( ) the N . piers (3) some Dec . i ndo s . P of The effi gy o f the founder ( . ) the church in a w w . niche is in the N . all of chancel He holds hat may perhaps be the model of a church between his clasped hands . This has been supposed to represent William de Birmingham (di ed The De Birminghams possessed the manor from L 16 1 BUCKI NGHAM SH I RE the beginning of the 13th to the be ginning of the 16 th w h century , hen it passed by marriage to t e Bulstrode s e u was e f usri e . Walt r de B lstrode Chi J c ’ th e e 1 8 but one no of King s B nch , 34 , can w only conj e cture whom this figure is intended to repres e nt a we e was o ne prob bly , ho v r , it of the family . The e the w Manor Hous to S . E . of the church , ith its h e no w was igh chimn ys and gables , a farm , built 16 2 0 ; e 18th e u c . , and r stored in the c nt ry . H orn Hill — A e w haml t , ith a small modern 1 o f e e church , 3 m . E . Chalfont S t P t r . H orrenden e u e e (Princ s Risboro gh , Great W st rn
w 1 . of ur Rail ay, m ) consists a ch ch a mansion h e 18 10 e of an u ous built in on the sit old b ilding , and a fe w cottage s grouped in th e low- lying me adows we e w P u Th e bet en Bl dlo and rinces Risboro gh . small ivy - cove re d c hurch c onsists only of a chance l w w w the e was e ith P . indo s ; nav d molished in 6 e w was u the 1 7 5, and the pr sent W . to er b ilt from e e 16 - e e e ston s of the nav . Note the th c ntury scr n and the e e ne mod rn font of Ca n sto .
H or ton u 1 . 1 (Wraysb ry , % m Colnbrook , % e e the m . ) is a scatter d villag among brook s and w w w e o f the w meado s , the illo s and lms lo er e e Tham s Valley . The place is full of inter st as 16 the home o f Milton from 16 3 2 to 3 7 . His e u e e e are fath r had a ho s her , but no trac s of it e f wh o e l t . His mother , Sarah Milton , di d in April 6 u e c 1 . 3 7 , is b ri d in the hurch The inscription , now w h e r e be e much orn , on tombston can still s en h e in the floor of t e chanc l . A s to Milton and Th e r e o . . Horton , e Introducti n , p 55 church
the 8 e nd o f the e e e . at . villag , is of som importanc 1 16 fine The north doorway (c . 5) is a e xample 16 2
BUCKI NGHAM SH I R E
n the e e or Of e Purgi g of S v n Sins , the Morality Prid d au 16 u an e . her Six D ghters , probably th c nt ry W H u henden G . 8c G C g (High Wycombe , . . . Rail w 1 t e e v e ays , 3 m . ) is a sca t r d parish , ha ing for its c ntre e the church and manor in contiguity, and around th se all the e e interest in Hughenden is gath red . That inter st is almost e ntire ly modern and is connected with th e years pass e d at Hugh e nd e n Manor by the late Lord Beacons fie ld 18 w e h e u e , from 48, h n p rchased it , to his d ath in
188 1 . April . It is an attractive and a characteristic spot Th e site of the pre sent house was occupie d by a farm e u 1 8 w th e e e was hous ntil 7 3 , hen stat purchased by a e e wh o e the e Mr Charl s Savag , conv rted old hous into a ’ e e e th e e n was a gentleman s r sid nc , and arabl la d tr ns e e form d into a park . The true and ancient Manor Hous n th e e s w o wa . stood opposit ridge , and kno n as Rockhalls e de a but The modern Hugh n n M nor , roomy not large , s o n th e e tands back of a ridge of the Chilt rns, almost u e w th e w n surro nded by tre s , from hich park , ith ma y fine e e t tr es , falls in a gre n undula ion . In this park , th e o f e e below grounds the hous , but a littl to the u e e th e u e N . , is the church , surro nd d , lik Manor Ho s , by
- e . was e e e 18 th e tre s I t almost ntir ly r built in 74 7 5, S . w N door ay, . , the chancel arch and some other parts of e th e so - ch e th e the chanc l , and called De Montfort ap l , at the c e e e e N . of chan l , b ing all that is left of the m di val D th N W e e e c . e . work , ex c pt a noticeable . font A t . corn r ] the e e ue e nVic toria ofthe chance is monum nt rected by Q , e e w e and a simpl marble tabl t , on hich is inscrib d
To THE D EAR AN D H o nouxs n M EM ORY or BEN D rsna su A L or Bs Ac o usr rnt n 11 mm , E R , this memorial is place d by his grate ful and affe ctionate S ove re ign and friend , Victoria, R . I . Kings love him that speaketh ’ 1 2 th right , Proverbs xvi . 3 . F eb . 7 , 164
BUCK INGHA M SHI RE which l eads to the l evel o f the M anor House and w w thence to the church , a al k hich leads from ’ near th e house of Disraeli s youth to that o f his manhood and old age among picturesque bits of landscape with which he was very familiar . Hulcott (Ayl esbury , 3 m . ) lies secluded about
m . from the main road . Passing along a lane , w through ide grass fields , you come upon a large
w . green lined ith trees On the S . side is the w e small church ith a lych gate , modern b yond , w beneath the drooping limes hich edge the E . o f w o f end the churchyard , glistens the ater an old o f moat . On the opposite side the green we are pretty cottages , old habitations , ll and comfortably restored . The church is a small
w . building ith a nave, chancel , S aisle and a N W smal l bell turret at the . . corner, and a Dec . w w. E . indo b n 6 66 ft 111 l rto e . , (9 . High Wycombe , 95 E n N . . ow w Henl ey), parish holly in this county, o n of and the borders Oxfordshire, commands — W v w N . o f fine ie s . over the val e O xford , e S . E . over the Hambl den vall ey in Bucks . There e the is is no villag proper , parish scattered and e c e e small , and c lesiastically join d to F ing st . The e e church , standing in a s cluded , isolat d spot , has u e u e w e m ch archit ct ral int rest . I t is small , ith chanc l , e w w be llcot . nave and ood n The S . door ay, v w w w . na e , ith a small indo at W . end , N door wa no w y ( blocked) and font , are all noticeable Th w e w e . w xamples of Norman ork . E indo is E E Th e w w of e a plain . . triplet . S . indo nav and e e chanc l is late Dec . ; the old carv d pulpit is chiefly e - w o n w arly 1 5th century ork , hich note the curious 166 H ULCOTT— I L M E R
- ancient fastening for th e ho ur glass . In th e c N W of r u chur hyard , to . . chu ch , an nusual e e w e e of e b position , is an anci nt y tr r marka ly
e th e e e ffi . large girth , and n ar gat a large ston co n of e or H ibe rtane The Manor I bston , , belonged ’ e e th e a e e of th e to H rv y , Pope s Leg t at the tim N u orman S rvey . [ ef or d e w and f ( Tham , 4 ith Worminghall v e th e Shabbington , forms a group of illag s in e w o f the e e e e e m ado s Tham Vall y , rath r r mot and e Th e 0 th e S W e nd lon ly . church ( ) is at . . of th e e e th e c e in villag , clos to vi arag , It is an te re stin u th e g church , b ilt almost entirely in 1 e n th e e 3th c ntury , and early all d tails are w e w e orthy of study It has nav , ith aisl s ,
- e . we w chanc l and W to r ith a saddle back roof, E E 1 - e good . . The nave has early 3th c ntury u w and e w e col mns ith capitals , bas s ith squar I n e s be plinths . the N . aisl hould noted a 1 6 0 f e e ue e window ( c . 3 ) o thr cinq foil d e e e Th e lights , und r a squar h ad . tomb of Thomas Tipping ( 1 595) should not be ove r
e e i w low e . look d , it has som cur ous ork in reli f Th e 16 th e u th e Manor F arm ( c nt ry) , and e are bridg on the road to Tiddington , w t e orth no ic . Ilmer Ilmire — — e (or ) Domesday , Imere ( Bl d low 2 e e th e low- , m . ) is a v ry small villag in lying the e e th e country of Tham Vall y , and forms most distant and the ne are st to th e O x fordshire borde r of th e group of small communities lying be ne ath e w e e e e Bl dlo Ridg , S aund rton , Hors nd n and e w Th e e w e Bl dlo . church is quit small , ith nav , 16 7 BUCKINGHAM SHI RE
e w e e f e chanc l , N . porch and ood n b l ry . Not and th e mod e e 1 th the octagonal font scr n , late 5 16 or early th century . Th e e was th e e nd th e Manor of Ilm r , at of 1 1th e n u e u th e c t ry , h ld by a subfe datory of powe rful Bishop of Baye ux by the s e rvice of ’ e e the w e e w c k ping King s Ha k s , a s rvic hi h con inue d c e u e t for several nt ri s .
[ p er 1 . . . e ( 5 m . W N W W st D rayton Station ) e u one has still , among rath r suburban surro ndings , or t f u Th e e w of th e wo bits o pict re squeness . vi bridge th e e th e th e across Coln , old house by it , and shining wa e e th e c u a t rs of the str am from h rchy rd , is pleasing e e the w c u in the extr m , so is S an Inn . The h rch e e two e e th e (r stor d) has aisl s , and is inter sting from indication it still gives of the infl ue nc e of th e suc ce ssive e e e a e u e styl s of English ccl siastical rchit ct r . Note in this connection the Norman pi e rs and arch e s with th e r e mains of a very early arch in th e E w e e e . E all , S . arch s , doubl piscina and s dilia , . , - tw w e . e o w . and light indo , Dec . , in chanc l , N sid T he . w 1 th e W door ay, late 5 century, and oth r e e e w d tails indicat lat r ork . Within the altar rails is a q uaint Jacobe an e e e e w f monum nt , r pr s nting a oman rising rom her e r a l e 16 1 tomb, a m mo i l to Lady Mary Sa t r , 3 , w e u e two hos husband , F ll forty y ars a carver to e e e e e th e w kings , is r m mb r d by a tabl t in N . all f c e w e o hanc l . Belo thi s florid m morial is a brass u w e 1 0 8 a to Sir R Blo nt and his if , 5 , an admir ble e e o f w the e e xampl ork of b st p riod , though the e l aboration o f th e dre ss o f the figure s is not e e the e u Two -re quall d by that on f at res . bas e f on w e u be e e li s all of S . aisl sho ld not ov rlook d . 168
BUCK I NGHA M SH I R E
we u r to r, s pported in the interior by fou sets e u e w of cluster d col mns , giv s the church ithin e w Th e r a grand ur hich is striking . chu ch ,
. 12 0 no w though built c 3 , is mostly Dec . , with some good windows of that period on th e w . . w the N and S side of nave , but E . indo i the fine w e 1 th s P . Note ood n roofs ( 5 century ) orname nte d with carve d figures of e e tc the fine angels , monk s , panels , boss s , . , and
W . porch . e um On the N . sid of chance l is a mon ent 1 - e e The e under a 5th c ntury rec ss . figur of a e e ffi e e e the priest . Th r is not su cient vid nc of id e ntity of the figure re pres e nte d to enabl e it to e w u e e be stat d hom it depicts , tho gh n dless to say ve ry d e finite statements have hitherto been made e on th point . Th e well -pr e se rve d carving on th e capitals e of the pillars , the quaint and rud carving ( 15th c e ntury) on the standards of the e e e 1 e r mod rn b nches , the arly 7th c ntu y w the u pulpit , ith large and no doubt m ch e u appreciat d hour glass stand , sho ld not e are be overlook d . Within the altar rails
s e w . e ev ral brasses , much orn It is not quit certain that th e inscriptions are rightly allotted th e e fli ie s the e are to g . On S . sid of floor the e ffi ie s c Blac kh e d 1 1 g of Ri hard , 5 7 , and his e e e one wif , Maud , and abov them to 1 6 Th e e fli ie s William Duncombe , 57 . g of e his wive s and childr n are lost . On the e two one N . sid are more brasses , com unc e 1 1 and the me morating Thos . D omb , 53 , 170 IVI NGHOE
1 . of other John Duncombe , 594 To each these f of w the e figy the ife is lost . o f Sir Walter Scott took the titl e his novel , as w of f o f ell as its hero , rom the name the “ ” o f i of village Iv nghoe . The nam e Ivanhoe, was he says in his Introduction , suggested by an old rhyme . Al l novelists have had occasion at or w h w ff some time other to is , ith Falsta , that they knew where a commodity o f good names was to be had . On such an occasion the author chanced to call to memory a rhyme recording three names of the manors forfeited by the ancestor o f t h e c e l ebrated Hampden for stri king the Black Prince a blow with his rack et when they quar rell ed at tennis
T n Win and I van oe ri g, g h , For s ik n of a b o tr i g l w , am e n fo e o H pd did r g , A n d a he c ou e sca e so gl d ld p . It is somewhat curious to note that Scott apparently had forgotten the true name of the i place , as he quotes it incorrectly . The trad tion , o n w was h as too, hich the rhyme founded, been di th e H am de ns w sproved, as p ere never in posses o f t h e sion these manors , and lines have recently o f v been considered as a remnant a ca alier song .
. o f To the S E . the village , beyond some large o f th e intervening fields , rises an outlying piec e
Chilterns call ed the Ivinghoe Hills . From the I c k nield Way they are somewhat striking . A w long, high do n is nearest to the main chain , and - e N . E two de fin e d th n to the . are cl early w su mmits , the range concluding i th the bold o f w outline Beacon Hill , hich descends in grassy 17 1 BU C KI N G HAMSH I RE
Ic knie ld w slopes to the Way , here the cross road f e rom Gadsden and Herts l eav s it . This is a striking spot ; a small cl ump of firs live a wind
' o f tossed life . Above them rise the smooth slopes
w . of Beacon Hill , hil e to the N is a panorama outstretching country ext e nding from the wooded f o f borders of Bed ordshire , across the Val e Ayl es o f bury , to the dim heights Ashendon and Brill . The before - mentioned road may be r e ached from f e Ivinghoe by a footpath , though i n act i t is asy w - to find al most any here a cart track . By it the hills can be gained . This road runs up the o f e hillside, past the highest point the Ivingho 8 1 1 f Hills ( eet), and so to Ivinghoe Common ’ 2 f w (7 3 eet), hich touches the Herts border close to Ashridge . These hills are a fine rambling ground ; indeed , E dlesborough is an admirable w or w poin t for the al ker cyclist, hether from or Tring direct , by Aldbury and Ashridge, and e or on f wheth r by road the pl easant tur . ’ ardanr 2 m Beac onsfi e ld 2 7 (Gerrard s Cross , 5 , e w e m . ) is the s cl uded spot her the quaint meeting e of e hous the Society of Friends stands , by the sid of the littl e grav e yard famous far beyond B ucking - f hamshire as t h e burial plac e o William Penn . w w From the ooded dell , upon a corner of hich
- are the graveyard and meeting house , there slopes w o f w a meado , at the head hich , by the side o f the road to Chal font St Giles is a square w o ut- red farmhouse ith picturesque buildings . w h ow 16 0 f w E l ood tells in 7 , in ormers atched “ o f the meeting, then holden at the house o f William Russell , call ed Jourdans , i n the parish ” w Giles Chal font . It is ith this farmhouse that 17 2
JORDANS are inseparably linked many memories of religious enthusiasm and persecution in the beginning and of 1 th for middl e the 7 century, sinc e years either the farm or the meeting -house was the centre where the Quakers from many mil es around met f r o prayer . The littl e bit of meadowland now lined by thickly - growing lime trees was purchas e d in 167 1 on o f th e of 16 88 behalf Society Friends , and in the meeting -house was buil t partly from money f f e N o l e t by the widow o Isaac P nnington . place in Bucki nghamshire is more i nteresting w and suggestive . We still see the shady meado s w ' among the ooded uplands . Across the road is — still the old house of Ston e Dean with a modern — w was part added hich buil t by Peter Prince , a member o f the Society of Friends and a citizen of 16 1 o f London , in 9 , and a quarter a mil e up w old the valley, to ards Seer Green , is another house , Dean Farm , once a Quaker home . The place would at any time be a charming piec e o f w e we se e rural scen ery, but h n the plain head ston e which marks the grave of William Penn ( 16 44 and not e the last resting -plac e o f G ulie lma w w Penn , a oman hose attractive ’ w o f personality lives in E l ood s naive pages , and ’ o f w o f admir six Penn s children , as ell as those w abl e men , Isaac Pennington and Thomas E ll ood , it becomes a unique spot di fficul t to equal in its surroundings of historical interest and charm of
E nglish landscape . A pl easant footpath l eads from close to th e e ntrance gate o f W e lders on th e e e road to Chalfont S t P ter to this villag , greatly e n w e short ni g the distance for alk rs . 173 BUCKI NGHAM SHI RE
Kimble G reat and L ittle , (Kimbl e Great Western Railway and Wendover M e tropolitan w two Rail ay, 3 are adj oining villages . The o f w1th churches are only a quarter a mil e apart, a slight hill between them the plac e was called in Ch e ne b elle Domesday, , and there has been assumed to be some connection between this name and o f Cunob eline that , the British King . Littl e
Kimbl e Church is very interesting, very small , Ic knield and stands j ust above the Way, embayed 1n the finely-timbered slopes o f the park of w Chequers Court . A littl e valley ith a small piece w 1 or of ater crossed by stone bridge, a 7th 18th - f century conceit, is seen rom the E . end th e of churchyard, and gives a compl eteness to of a delightful bit scenery . The church (key at adjoining farm , service once a month) is interesting, because i t remains so compl etely In untouched by the restorer . style it is Dec . (con se c rate d e having only a nave and chanc l ,
. w w not the smal l N and S . indo s , though specially in noticeable , give some harmony to the build g. The e dark open roof, and the faint outlin s , still e discernibl , of the large mural paintings , help to incre ase the fe e ling of antiquity . The oblong block of encaustic tile s in the chancel is inte re st - e ing six subjects in six compartm nts . That on e e e e a e the left is best pres rv d , and s ms to indic t n a king , a knight , and again a ki g . Note an old plain font . t h e W w the Great Kimble lies to . , ith an inn , w c e e Bear and Cross , hi h can be r comm nded , and has e e 0 w w n e a r stor d church ( ) ith to er , av , aisle and
e e De c . e the chanc l , in styl , but quit most interest 174
BUCKINGHAM S H I R E
a e e a considerable p rish in the Tham s Vall y . Its centre is the old - wo rld oasis in the midst of far th e w much cultivated land , not from rail ay w e the and a canal , hich is form d by church , u f e T u almsho ses and a e w cottag s . wo gro ps o f e of now e almshous s red brick , much ton d by e and n e e n tim , exceedi gly pictur squ and interesti g , on e are the N . and S . sid s of the church ; e are e N e u e th y call d the Old and w A lmsho s s . S e e The old ( . ) w re built by Sir John Ked r 16 1 th e ne w of minster in 7 ; , N . church , we 16 6 16 8 bet en 9 and 9, by Sir Henry S eymour . h e o ld e f To t e W . are som pleasant cottag s o no e e importance , but which compl t a rather unique u e Th e u e u pict r . ch rch though archit ct rally
w c e e . some hat haotic , is attractiv from its vari ty
e n w e . It has a chanc l , ave , W . to er , N . aisl and S
e e . w chapel , and library sid by sid The to er of was 16 e brick built in 49, and is a rar example 1 - e u w of 7th c nt ry ork . Indications point to the u the 12 e but church having been b ilt in th c ntury , th e w f e w o . E . indo s aisle and chanc l are D ec ; he r w w one are e the ot indows , ith exception , squar
e r th e . w w h e ad e d with D e c . trac y . In E indo of th e e w w e are aisl , and in a indo of the aisl , some e the e w the pi ces of Old glass , that in aisl sho ing f th e w of o w . arms Ed ard I . On S all chancel is fine - D e c e th e e e a example of . s dilia , spandr ls b ing w e u th e unusually ell carv d for a country ch rch , e e w th e rood screen is lat P . The scre n bet een he e e 1 - e nave and t chap l is lat 7th c ntury work . e 16 e w The font ( arly th c ntury) is octagonal , ith u w pane ls of q atrefoils encircling heads and flo ers . An attractive e xampl e of Ja c obe an monumental 176 LANGLEY
Ke de rminst e r on sculpture is the monument N . wall of c h anc el ; it is a family m e morial to Edmund Ke de rminst e r 16 0 f , died 7 (but erected by hi m be ore i w he d ed), his ife and children , and John Keder i 1 8 w minster, d ed 55 , and his ife and children . The two generations of Ke de rminst ers are re presented by kn eeling figures in coloured marbl e ; w w belo are the children , i th their names quaintly of placed above them . A nu mber other tabl ets with quaint inscriptions may be noticed in this w church . One brass remains , that to John Bo ser, 160 8 (at present removed from the buildi ng and of w in custody the church arden). The library r was (key at nea est almshous e S . of church) built Ke de rminst e r 16 2 by Sir John about 3 , a littl e f later than the S . chapel . Th e painted panels o the w e w ainscot presses are inter sting, as ell as the collection of old books which was placed there by Sir John for the ben efit o f ministers and such of other in the county B ucks as resort thereunto , as
w N . E o f he says in his ill . At the . end the village is L angl ey Park , purchased by Sir R . Harvey, in 1 88 of 7 , from the Duke Marlborough, beautiful was from its many trees . The existing house built th e of of by second Duk e M arlborough , grandson f the great Duke in the femal e lin e, soon a ter he o ro e rt in 1 8 f b ught the p p y 7 3 . Still urther to the
N . f , and separated by the road to Iver rom the f o w 1 . Park , is a fine tract oodland ( 5m long and e 5 m . in breadth) appropriately nam d Black Park f th rom e many Scotch firs . The formal arrange ment of the origi nal planting (about the middl e 1 w was of 7 th century , hen the lak e made) has d e - w w long isappear d, and sel f so n trees have gro n M 17 7 BUCKI NGHA M SHI RE
f f up, orming a wild and be autiful bit o wood ce Th e e nd e c land s nery . W . is r a hed by
the . th e e n road N from church , ke pi g to e the the right , and th n along outs kirts of e L angl y Park . From this road a footpath e th e e th e l ads past lak , through Black Park to th e Crooked Brlle t Inn on the road ne ar ~ I ver Heath . — L atbour e w e 1 m. in e y ( N port Pagn ll , ) D om s L ate sbe ri — day , e is a small village in a parish on a fe rtile trac k enclose d in a loop of w e w the Ouse , hich , touching N port Pagnell , turns the n in a direction opposite its forme r u r e course . The ch rch and L athbu y Hous , e 1 u rebuilt at the b ginning of 9th cent ry , s th e o f of the N e w tand at end a lane S . P e Th e port agn ll and Northampton main road . w t o w . church , ith nave , aisles , chancel and W we N c e w to r . , ontains som interesting N . ork , e e the w w c we sp cially south door ay, hi h , ho ver, e o f w has evid ntly lost parts the original ork . Th e o f e are e e capital s pillars of S . aisl ornam nt d e e u u o f by grotesqu animals . Not c rio s carving
e . th e e one on S . side of nav A lso carv d flat e of old u e e slab , r moved from one the sq ar pi rs
‘ of nave in 187 0 to th e wall imme diate ly below th e e Ch adflo wer Rood L oft st ps , and the monu e 16 0 m nt , 4 , a lady and family . w w e 1 - A indo on S . sid contains 5th century s e t he e e are c tain d glass . In nav and aisl s onsider th abl e remains of mural paintings ( 15 century) . L atimer f 1 (Chal ont Road , 5 a small se e e the o f clud d haml t in parish Chesham , u u is the centre of some delightf l r ral scenery , a 178
B UCK I NGHAM SH IR E
e f m e s n e at each corn r , and ro th m pri g h avy e e th e f pointed arch s , indicativ of transition rom
E N - . . E . w are N to . The S and . door ays
E E . . s u and the porche P . Many ch rches in Bucks at one time were in this early s is tyle , but it rare to find any indication of no e it w l ft . L avendon Castle was on a mount with u n three baileys . A farmho se ow stands on w the mount , hich is about half a mile N . of the church . L eeebam rtead uc m — p ( B kingham , 35 . ) Domes L e ch aste de— e o f h u day, lies in a corn r t e co nty close to Northamptonshir e . Its position serve s not to make it remote , as it is on any main one e road , and discovers it in a small vall y e w on a littl stream which flo s by the church , b —a turning a mill hard y pretty , characteristic e The u 0 is bit of landscap . ch rch ( ) one of the e most inter sting in the county . It has
w . . e s a chancel , nave , ith N and S aisl and f fe u e . e Th e two e W tow r . chi at r s of the
h . t e w . church are N . and S door ays (Norman) — Each is fine and e ach diffe rent that on the th e e e e S . being arlier , and poss sses a vari ty e e of ornam ntation . The tympanum is specially
e w Th e . notic able ith its curious carving . N doorway is a good example of transitional w h oodmould ork . The has a head at the ape x and e nds and is ornamented with a e 12 th - u zigzag band and foliag . The cent ry e u 1 e be a font , r c t in the 4th century, is rar and uti is e of e e ful . I t octagonal , and ach the ight pan ls — — is filled with a diffe re nt subj e ct a bi shop our 180 LECKHAM PSTEAD— L EN BOR O U GH — Saviour on th e Cross St Catherine Mary — — and the Infant Je sus four roses two leaves — within a garter in the figure of a heart a
n w e e . drago , out of hose mouth proc eds a tr e Near by is a large re cumbent figur e of a n ur one k ight in chain armo , 14th century e e may judg an attempt at portraiture . Not T lne also the monumental brass to Reginald y y, 1 0 6 1 - r i 5 , and the 3th centu y pa ntings in the n e av .
L ee e e 2 . (Gr at Missend n , 5 m ) is not much u more than a hamlet on the plands , in a very u e w e e secl ded and pr tty district , ith d p bottoms , e such as Ballinger Bottom , b tween the Missen e e Th e den Vall y and the bord rs of Herts . village s is a traggling collection of cottages , consisting L e e L e e w of and Common , ith an old Manor w red H ouse ell restored . There is a brick
modern church , and a little to the S . the old w w now church , a small building , ithout a to er , is e - s w us d as a Sunday chool , and is ithout any archite ctural feature s ex ce pt a poor three -light
E E w w. Th e l th e . . E . indo mura monuments to — — Plaistow family the owners of th e manor have be e ne w th e en r moved to the church , also e s dilia . ’ One e . 3 are mil E of L ee , in Bray Wood , the remains of an ancient encampment whether British or Roman it is now scarcely possible to w state ith certainty . L enborou b L e din ebe r g (Domesday, g g), a small e 2 haml t m . S . of Buckingham . The Manor e now was th e Hous , a farm , property of Gibbon 181 BUCK I NGHA M SHI RE
and h e e the historian , it is said that liv d there for a time . illin stone D a rell n ui L . g y (Bucki gham , 45 ) has e r e e th e h no villag , the pa ish b ing c ntred in c urch , w e the a hich lies in the fi lds to the E . of main ro d to Northampton and close to a farmhous e . The w 1 1 - e e church , hich has an th century nav and chanc l
w E . E w . The w in arch , sho s much . ork to er is this on w of e e e style ; S . all chanc l th r is a quite beauti
E E . w w of two w e ful . indo lights , ith a centr shaft
e Th e . w w the and tooth d ornament . E indo of — e e . e chanc l the church has a chancel , nav , S aisl w and porch , and a N . aisle built hen the church was e e I 8— w e r stor d in 86 is peculiar , sho ing a cl ar ee E E De c f ling of the transition from . . to . , tre foils be ing placed as a kind of addition in th e h e ad E E Th e are to distinct three . . lights . pillars u e th e octagonal . A fine tomb occ pies the centr of — two e u chancel recumbent figur s , a man in armo r w e e th e e e and and his ife , sid by sid , featur s fin ly — strikingly sculptured a memorial to Paul Dayre ll
w 1 1 8 . e of and Dorothy, his ife , 57 . On sid e t o e ffi i chancel is anoth r tomb, having w brass g e s
a e 1 . to Paul and M rgaret Dayr ll , 49 1 L illin stone L ofvell a was g ( Buckingh m , 5 m . ) , 1 8 e o f th e c u until 44, a parish and villag o nty u N orth am of O xford , tho gh it li e s close to the p tonshire . of th e a border . It is 5 m . E main ro d e from Buckingham to Northampton , a qui t little place standing some what high in a pl e asant Th e w country . church , hich is just on the e w e he edg of grass fields , hich str tch away to t
E. w n e , is rather an interesting building ith av , e w chancel , N . and S . aisl s and W . to er , with a 182
BUCKIN GHA MSH IRE
” L i 0r d L ittle e w e 1 n/ , (N port Pagn ll , 5 a the e the L inford H ll , on N . sid of Ouse, a fe w e e h e cottag s and a farm , constitut t habita i tions of this small parish . The church s
e the . . s clos to hall on S . E side It is a mall e e is building , the most int r sting feature the - r e e e e 1 3th centu y b ll turr t . Not an anci nt font . L inslade L incelada s now (Domesday , ) consist N e w e an t ad of ( 1 ) L inslad , urban distric joining the L e ighton Buzzard station of th e 81 N W w w as fre L . . . Rail ay and best kno n a q ue nted hunting centre in the winter ; ( 2) old th e e L inslade , church (s rvice in summer only ; e N e w d e key at vicarag , L insla e ), Manor H ous and a fe w cottages picture sque ly placed in the e e for d e Ous Vall y , having a bac kgroun the pin w oods on the high land of Bedfordshire . (Walkers l e ave the Bletc hley road by the u e n t nn l and take the footpath by the ca al . ) was The e The church originally N . rud e e e chanc l arch app ars to belong to this p riod , the r w e also interesting font , circula , ith grot sque e figures and foliag round the top . The details o f u De e the ch rch are generally poor . and P . e e Ther are small brasses in the nave , figur s e w e of a man , thr e wives and t elve childr n the 1 th (c . In 3 century pilgrimages were frequent to a chalybeate spring near r e no w the church . The Mano Hous is part u e u of farmho s and conspic ous to E . of church . The manor was held by the Corbe ts from
'
1 e 16 88 . the end of. the 5th c ntury to At e South cote S W s e i haml t of , . . of L in lad , s 184 LITTLE L I NFORD—LONG CRENDON
f w e s the Rothschild stud arm , h re many famou - e e e race horses hav b en br d . it fw r » Common 2 00 L tle o tl. , a pleasant common ( e e e acr s)to N . of Burnham . Ther is a mod rn church e N E a e clos to the . . entr nce of Dropmor . L on rendon e 2 e G . g (Tham , m ) is a large villag , a not unimportant agricultural centre in a fertil e d e w e istrict , but a villag hich has be n decreasing th e th e and in population . A t E . end is church e th e - n n ar the gate is old Court house , a buildi g of 1 w th e c the 5th century, in hich manorial ourts we e e e r held . Here Walt r B auchamp , the G reat e w e e St ard to Que n Catherin , Consort of Henry V c f th e th e e a . , held ourts rom first to eighte nth ye r e e w e of the reign of H nry VI . , and her the ard n and e e scholars of All Souls , O xford , h ld th ir court in 1 1 e n e a 449 and 4 59. It is an int resti g archit ctur l s e h as e s e and ocial r lic , and b en re tor d through th e efforts of the National T rust for Places o f e e th e Historic Interest , and has b en conv yed to L Society by the ord of the Manor . e w e The church is larg and cruciform , ith nav , e s w e e aisl , central to er , chanc l , and trans pts . I ts importan ce lie s rather in its size and ge neral design
n e . we th e tha in its d tails Vie d from W . it gives a e good impr ssion ofa P . building ; though built mostly 1 a Th e in the 3th century it has many later det ils . N . D e c w w th e transept has a good . indo , and upper part
th . of . e of e tower is P . On the E wall N trans pt two w e and w are orn brass s of a man oman, John Canon ( 146 0 ) and his wife and below them e e u th e their thre sons and ight da ghters . I n
S . e e u u transept is a larg a rchit ct ral mon ment , with r e cumbent figure s of - a knight in plate 185 BUCKI NGHAM SHI RE
w armour, and lo er, a lady richly dressed , represent o f w fe ing Sir John Dormer Dorton and his i . Above is a pediment supported by pillars o f blac k ’ o f marbl e . The date Lady Dormer s death is 16 0 of f given as 5, but that Sir John is l e t i n was blank ; probably, therefore , the monument e was f rected, as not uncommon , in his li etime f 1n of and his heirs orgot to fill the date his death ,
w s 6 2 6 . of hich wa in 1 . At the W end the v s illage , at the top of the teep little hill w by hich it is approached , notice on the e of e w S . sid the road an old ston gate ay . I t e e e e is the ntranc to Long Cr ndon Manor Hous . we e e The building itself has , ho v r , littl traces e Th e r u e of its anci nt design . othe Manor H o s e w is near the church , approach d by a narro of and stri king avenu e el ms and yews . It stands on o f of Walte r the site, as seems c ertain , the castl e ff of Gi ard, the friend and adviser the Conqueror, w w was on hom Crendon , ith many other manors , w was w besto ed . Crendon the place hich he n ew was chose as his English home , and here he t wo ff succeeded by more Walter Gi ards , the o f first and second Earls Buckingham . His
park stretched along the hillside to the Thame , o f w and by the banks this stream , ithin the bounds o f w this domain , presently rose the stately alls o f e 1n o f Notl ey Abbey . Our inter st the history Long Crendon ceases with the death of the third W ff w 1 16 w al ter Gi ard , ithout issue , in 4, hen 1 2 the vast possessions were dispersed . In 55 the manor passed into the possession of the Dormers of Dorton ; subsequently, in later years , to the f amily of Grenville . 186
BUCKI NGHA M SHI RE
e of s ( 4 ) the altar tomb , S . sid anctuary, to Anne English with three well - preserve d brasse s e - of a mother , daught r and grand daughter . The w to er is Dec . ’ M aid M reton n 1 m —so r o . ( Bucki gham , ) called from t wo ladie s of th e Pe yvor family wh o are supposed to have founded the present church in — the 15th c e ntury is a village standing on high E Th e N . . ground to the . of Buckingham church the is one of most important in the county . It is characterised by individuality and harmony of f and e e e o . treatment , is an admirabl xampl P e we architectur still untouched . The W . to r is e e n e e sp cially otic abl , as Sir Gilbert S cott said , of ue two - admirable and uniq design , having light windows dee ply rec e ss e d and divid e d by a kind of n w fo r a gular pier . The arch has rich flo ers the
. w . caps The W . door ay is admirable ; the N w — e e w . porch is fan vault d . Not the indo s the E w w the e w fine l indo later than others , the s dilia, ith y e and s carv d canopies , divided by clu tered columns , th he e N . font and the rood screen and t modern brasses ( 1890 ) -to the two maids of Morton in old matrices . Note also the remains of mural paintings ove r doorway of the nave and in th e e 16 th chanc l , the latter ( century) are of the L ast
Supper . M arlow G reat e one , (Great W stern Railway) is of those small pleasant Thame s - side towns which e a e e have a family res mbl nc one to the oth r . The s the e main street , as at Henley , run up from riv r ,
e a e . and at Mark t Squ re branch s E . and W th e There is nothing modern about place , but e e e t he w nothing m di val , as in som of little to ns of 188
BU CK I NGHAM SHI RE
n 18 1 e u e now e duri g the year 7 liv d at a ho s , call d h e e e t e . e e e Sh ll y Hous , on N sid of West Str t , and in his rambl e s about the Quarry Woods and u h e e r d ring the hours pass d moo ed in his boat ,
th e R evolt o I slam. See ante composed f ( , ’ u e th e p . A little beyond Shelley s ho s is 16 2 w we Borlase School , founded in 4, hich is ll w of e orthy notic . M a low L ittle 1 r . , (Bourne End , 5m ) is a small e c an be e villag 5m . from the Thames . It reach d t e the from the river by a footpa h about 5 m . abov boathouse at Bourne End . The church has a good deal of interesting detail and is on the edge o f the e was e e 1 0 2 th e e w . m ado s It r stor d in 9 . In chanc l E th e e e E . w w are som . indo s , and in nav P . Note the lofty tower arch ( 14th century) and th e plain f a N . ont and a br ss on an altar tomb to Nichol
L e de wich 1 0 e . ( 4 3 ) on S . side of chanc l of the u e On the E . side church is the M anor H o s , of 1 the back part which is early 7th century . e e n th e e Clos to Bourn End , adjoini g Abb y e e Farm , onc stood the B nedictine Nunnery of St Fontibus de M e rlawe w c was Mary de , hi h in e e 1 2 2 8 was e exist nc in , and th refore probably f 1 e s e e 2 th wa . ound d in the c ntury . It a small hous R e c e nt excavations of the foundation have w e r th e sho n that it consist d of a chu ch on W . w e w On the S . er the domestic buildings , ith a Cloist e r of the same length as th e nave of the the of w church , and to E . this the dormitory , ith a chapter - house interv e ning betwe en it and the u ch rch . M an o Giabon ( L ondon 8c North - We stern
w 1 . Rail ay Station, m ) is a picturesque village 190 LITTLE MARLOW— MARSH GIBBON with t 6 rh and 17th - century cottag e s bene ath large e e e w . or e e lms among larg , open m ado s Marsh , M rs , can be traced as far away as E dward th e Con fe ssor th e w h e e e d , for charter by hich d dicat e e I slip , in Oxfordshir , to Christ and S t Pet r to the e of e one Abb y Westminst r , he also gave e Me rsce th e e e hid at . A t Dom sday Surv y the e e w E arl of Morton held a manor in M rs , hich h e be stowed o n the monks of G re ste in in th e u th e e Normandy . On s ppression of for ign e e D e e e monast ri s the la P ol s obtain d the manor, and in 144 1 bestowe d it on th e hospital of we e e 16 0 e n w E lm , and sinc 5 it has b lo ged , ith we e th e e of e E lm , to Univ rsity O xford . The nam of n G ib en was of Gibbo , or w , derived from that a family wh o h e ld lands in Me rse in the reign of K h was ing Jo n . Another manor at the e e e -A nsculf D om sday Surv y h ld by Wm . F itz , under whom the forme r Saxon owner h e ld it as su e e his bf udatory . A second Manor Hous 1 th e n u e e ( 7 c t ry), call d W stbury, is still to be the of the v e seen at W . end illag . c u e nd of th e e The h rch is at the N . villag , and e e w e is an int r sting building ith nave , chanc l ,
e Th e . e w e e aisl s . N aisl and N . pillars er add d w e the as e e 188 1 Th e h n church w r stor d in . S . f fine w w transept or Ick ord Chape l has a P . indo ; of e of e the roof the nav is the same style, but th re are of the remains a much olde r building , such as E f th e l E e th e of o . . . foliag in capitals some pi lars a e on N E of e The foli g the . . pillar aisl is remark — able large lilies be tween which hav e be en heads ; the e E E w chanc l is . . Note in N . all a stone cofli n with a floriate d cross (late 13th century) The 191 B UCKI NGHAM SHI RE
' w w th e Old s to er has been rebuilt ith material . In the churchyard is th e lowe r part o f a cross 1 th e e e ( 5 c ntury). The Manor Hous , opposit the u w e ch rch , ith its high gables and chimn ys , is a d e lightful picture and an e x ce llent exampl e of a 1 th - 7 century domestic building . I t still contains s e everal interesting details , the staircases esp cially n a e ot bl . M a r ston N or tl: n , (Grandborough R oad Statio , m 35 . ; Waddesdon Manor , 4 m . ) is an important agricultural village stre tching along the brow of some rising ground looking over th e low-lying e we w e e e fi lds to the st ard . S om pictur sque cottag s w be e wa ill s en , and on the y to the church “ w e Observe an inn ith the uniqu sign , The ” e e Armed Yeoman . A chalyb at spring at one time gave North Marston a r e putation as a health e was e resort . Th re also a shrin in the church in h r ne e 1 2 0 wh o e onou of John Shor , R ctor , 9 , se ms e e his to have b n a militant Christian . Among achievements
Sir J o h n Sh orne G en e man o ne tl b r , ” K cke th e e v n o a boo i d d il i t t ,
e e e two an old rhym assur s us . Thes attractions caused North M arston to be the e nd of many Th e c one of pilgrimages . hurch is the most e th e u th e h as two int resting in co nty , nave
. E w e th e E. aisles , N is . ith tooth d ornament , D e e are e the S . is . , and th r som curious Th e c capitals . S . por h is good plain D . The th e w . n work , to er is P chancel is e tirely 192
BUCKINGHAM SHIRE
e nd and remarkable pictorial brass on N . of altar e e tomb, probably that of E dmund West , S rj ant at- L aw (died de picting a curious de ath be d scene ; (6 ) a fine brass to Mary We st with a c h rysom child ; and (7) two daughters of e of Nicholas W st . These are in floor S . aisle e th e w at E . end . The turr t outside N . all of e e f nav , onc enclosing spiral steps to a rood lo t , a is curious . The moat of the old M nor s h e o f th House of the West is a little to t N . e c hurch . M edmenham e (Henley, 4 m . ) lies on a lev l e of e e pi ce ground under a sharp br ak in the Chilt rns , and which be gins thre e mil e s above Gre at w w th e ff are e e Marlo , here chal k cli s visibl abov e f the Tham s . The church is hal a mile from the The e e e river . old r part of the villag is group d ne ar it from this point to the river are a numbe r ne w w fe w of villas , among hich a old and e u picturesque cottag s remain . On a steep sp r of e e high ground abov the church , once the sit of a castle , a farmhouse is boldly placed . On the e n e river bank stood M dme ham Abbey, a c ll to e 12 0 0 the parent abbey at Woburn , found d in by de Bole be c w e Hugh , hose father h ld the manor e at the Domesday Surv y . In the beginning of the 16 th century the abbe y was annex e d to Bisham A bbey on the opposite sid e of the the river . The abbey has totally disappeared , but w - e w s house , ith ivy cov red , modern to er , look e v we th e The picturesqu enough ie d from river . e u e church has little archit ct ral beauty or inter st .
w e w . Note the N . ork in inn r door ay of S porch , the 1 th w also panels ( 7 century) of the pulpit , hich , 194 M EDMENHA M— MENT M ORE w e i th considerabl e reason , have been regard d as the work of a Dutch artist . M edmenham of Abbey has attained a kind cel ebrity, because in the middle o f the 18th century i t was selected as the scen e of their revelri es by a group of fashionabl e men wh o called themsel ves the Of f o f M onks M edmenham Abbey . Their orm was amusement at once profane and childish , mimicking, as they did, religious rites in their o f social meetings , but the character their gather ings was probably neither better nor worse than of f or th e that others be ore since , though from position of those wh o took part in them th e y f have achieved a disagreeabl e ame . Wil kes , Sir w f w l e Francis Dash ood , a ter ards Lord Despenser , Chancellor of the Exchequ er in Lord Bute ’s
Government , Paul Whitehead , the dramatist , w and Charles Churchill , the poet , ere the l ead ing spirits at the M edmenham meetings . wh o was of was Wilk es , the youngest the party, on probably the first i n the revelri es , and one “ occasion let loose among them a baboon mad e ” up as Satan . M entmore m on (Leighton Buzzard , 3& . ) stands f the summit o a hill with charming vi ews . Nothing can be more delightful than the vi ew to the N . on an autumn morning with the fore o f e llovvin ground y g el ms . The village is grou ped o f - n th e about the S . side the hill top o the W . are o f If th e house and gardens M entmore House . place is approached from Cheddington , the road , w after crossing the rail ay to Ayl esbury, runs of e through part the Park . The villag is not w particularly picturesqu e, but is ell cared for I QS BUC KI NGHAM SHI RE
e one e and flourishing , as b fits sid by side with so The magnificent a house as that of Mentmore . W N . . church is at the . corner of the hill While agre eabl e e nough among all its pleasant surround e ings , it has archit cturally not much interest . Th e c e hancel is altog ther modern, and many e alterations hav taken place from time to time .
e e E E. The most int resting details to note ar the . w now m e capitals hich for the bas of the pillars , th e e n e 1 th and carv d a g ls ( 5 century) in the roof. The e xisting pillars wer e probably placed in the the 1 1 e church in 4th or 5th century . M ntmore was House built by Baron Meyer de Rothschild , m e e 18 1 The we and co m nc d in 5 . architects re S ir J . Paxton and Mr G . H . Stokes . Near e e th e the hous is a large statu of F avonius , 1 1 no e winne r of the Derby in 87 . I t w b longs th e r wh o 18 8 to E a l of Rosebery , , in 7 , married de Miss Hannah Rothschild , the only child of e Baron Mey r . The house contains many fine o f br ie-a-bra e work s art and , but as it is not open to th e public it is usel e ss to enumerate its con
e . t nts The most important rooms are the hall , — 8 x 0 ft . in ee r 4 ft . 4 it are thr coppe gilt lanterns , e the surmount d by lion of S t Mark , which were made in the Arsenal o f Ve nrce for the Bucenta ur 1 0 — - w in 47 and the dining room , ith carvings and e L oo w w e e panel s paint d by Van , hich ere d sign d % IV the e the e fo r L ouis . on marriag of Princ de w of Conti . The best vie the house is from the fi e lds betwe en th e Cheddington Crossing and the e e road from Wingrav to Marston Gat Station,
- through which a bridl e way runs . M ilton Ke nes w e y (Ne port Pagn ll , 3 m . ) is a 196
BUCKINGHAM SH IRE for the o ld f lain w o n ont , a p bo l an octagonal e 1 th w be st m , 5 century , ill found by th e side of th e w . n th e . c the . W al k leadi g to S por h . On S wall of chancel is the we ll - pre s e rve d brass e ffigy of B ab n ton 1 2 . Adam y g , Rector , 4 7 i Ke e Mid e lt ne e M lton yn s ( Domesday , v o ) ow s its second name to the De Catrines or Keynes , h t h e 1 w o held manor in the 3th century . e of wh o ih Att rbury, Bishop Rochester, is so separably conn e cted with the politics o f th e r e ign o f was 166 2 Queen Anne , born here i n , his
- father b e ing rector from 16 57 16 93 . M i ssende n G reat w , (M etropolitan Rail ay), is a large villag e e xt e nding for hal f a mil e on each o f h e f side t road rom London to Aylesbury . ’ To -day it still answers to Leland s (died 1 552 ) des “ c ri tion : f e e p A praty thorough ar , bu t no mark t w old- f w to n for it is a quiet , ashioned place, ith e w no actual picturesqu feature , but reposeful ith its unostentatious dwellings grouped below the w e beech woods hich cover the adj oining hillsid . was e It just such a plac as , in the Middl e Ages , was the favourite situation for a religious house t h e w meado s , the stream at hand, the not distant w w f oodland , here uel could be obtained and hogs b e not 1 1 fed . Thus it is surprising that in 3 3 an Abbey for Black Canons was found e d by William o f e de Missenden . All traces the abbey hav w e disappeared . A modern ho use ith a park occupi s ld th e the site of the o religious house . So
of o n . of i church outside , and the E side v llage , ’ e is n ow the only object of a stranger s pilgrimag . e e th e Its situation among pleasant tr s , j ust at o f w edge the abbey park , some hat above the l evel 198 T H E M ISSEN DEN S
he e t e w . of villag hich it overlooks , is d lightful w e n . w E xter ally it is not attractive , P indo s hav be en plac e d in it which are too large and heavy for the original building . It is structurally a
. n w we a e two Dec buildi g ith a W . to r , nav , c e e Th e — aisles , chan l and trans pt . interior the — church was well re store d in 190 0 is spacio us D e c th e e and the . pillars and arches of nav
. w ] are good On the N . all of chance is a e f De c . e e e o b autiful arcad , an xact facsimil the ’ e E E e . original , opposit is a good . . pri st s door Th e f but w the e N . ont , plain , ith charact ristic e e of cabl ornament , indicat s the early origin th e w c was e church , hi h , no doubt , cont m orane ous w th e of th e p ith building abbey . On
. w o f n w S all S . tra sept is a curious brass sho ing th e bust of a woman with plaite d hair e e f rising from a conv ntio nal arrangem nt of oliage . It doe s not seem to have any connection with
th e th e . brass inscription beneath it . In W c orne r of same wall is a much e arlier brass e ffigy a w a of oman , probably that referred to by H ines as the of the a lady (c . F rom W . end churchyard a footpath l e ads across th e park to t h e ff e w of e L ondon road , a ording vi s Missend n
A bbe y . M issenden L ittle e e 2 , (Great Miss nd n , 5 lies somewh at Off the main road ; a by-road e e mak s a semicircl from it and rejoins it , after the e Th e passing through villag . church is we n e w . small and quaint , ith a W to r, a av , E E e e . . . chanc l and N . aisl . It has an E w w th e e l indo of three lights , and d tails shou d w w be noticed . A quaint dormer indo has 199 BUCKI NGHAMSH I RE
o f f. been placed in the S . side roo There is also a N . font . Though the architectural features are o f old . little valu e , i t is a curious building On f a the floor of N . aisl e is the remnant o brass to
16 1 . John Styl e , 3 r ou h see M onks R isbo g ( Risborough). ul w o n M o soe . (Ne port Pagnell , 3 m ) lies high f e e ground close to the B ed ordshire bord r , one mil E th e e N . to . of xcellent main road from Woburn to w e h e Ne port Pagn ll and the north . T c o ne e we hurch is of some siz , having W . to r , o w e two . n nave , aisles and chancel I t possess s
of . chi efly the characteristics the Dec styl e , but of w there is a good deal modern ork , such as the w w of w w are E . indo , but some the other indo s e o f good Dec . d sign . f e e fli ie s In the floor o N . aisl are the brass g o f w w . a man and oman , ithout an inscription They probably represent Richard R uthall and his wife (c . M ursle w u 1 m e m y (S anbo rne , . ; Bletchl y , 5 . ) was in the 1 3th c e ntury of more import ance to- rs of than day . It an instance a plac e which from a small country town in the Middl e Age s h as f e o f ictu all n to a small village . I t is full p r e - - w e e sque black and hit thatch d cottages , built the 16 e i th e s late in th and arly in the 7 c nturie .
e e e one . e w Not sp cially , at S end of villag , ith an o ld e w e be 0 y tre hind it . The church ( ) stands on high ground about the middl e of the village h t e . t on W side of the road . With nave , wo e c aisl s and chan el , it is chiefly Dec . , having pillars and w ws s Th e indo , small , but good , of that tyle . monuments to the F ortescue s are the most in 20 0
BU CKI NGHAM SH I R E wh o 1 0 e e e died in 57 , probably placed h r b fore t he e the e other monum nt . On opposite sid is a u e e e son o f mon m nt to Sir Francis F ort scu , Sir wh was e e e w fe John , ich r ct d by his i , though she is e e e as th e also d picted . It is in the sam styl other . N asb w u e a e ne w (S anbo rn , 3 m . ) is a vill g and a r e the e 8 civil pa ish und r L ocal G ov rnme nt Act , 1 94 — in th e high district betwe en Buckingham and e c e e Bl t hl y . The church is a small mod rn building
8 f R . A e e 1 e e . er ct d in 57 rom d signs by G . S . Str et , N e wton L on o ille e 2 m - e g ( Bl tchley , 5 . ) Dom s w day , Ne nton , the second name being derived f e r e ff rom L ongu ville in No mandy, Walt r Gi ard having e ndowed an abbey there with th e manor h e e w . e e w of N nton This villag is larg , it som e 1 - e and noticeabl 7th century cottag s , a Manor e 16 th c ntu th e e r wi . Hous ( y), dovecot , n ar the church This (0 ) is in the c e ntre of th e village and has much to attract a visitor ; not th e l e ast is th e view h u t e N . w e to N . The piers are , ith grotesq u e s w u fig r s on N . ide and hollo mouldings ro nd w 1 - e the arches , and the font , ith 7th c ntury e th e e e cov r , is of same p riod , it has the cabl w we and ornament ith leaf and flo r designs , is u Th e w w s pported by eight small columns . indo s are P th e E w w e e the . , . indo b ing lat in e e as e N e w styl . A good d al of work w don by
e 1 2 w e . w w Colleg , O xford , about 44 , h n the P indo s we e e the are r probably insert d . On piscina th e c e e th e e arms of this oll g . On larg pier, w the N E e e hich is at . . angl of the S . aisl , is a e c w was one e ffi r ess , in hich at tim the e gy of a the e now knight in chain armour . Only h ad w O f remains . On the N . all chancel is a modern 2 0 2 NASH— N EWPORT PAGNE LL
- . G ro n e 1 1 0 wh o was brass to W y , R ctor , 47 9 5 4 ,
th e e o f e . th e first teach r G re k at O xford In S . w o f . e n e w th e a e all S aisl is a ich , ith app r ntly n d o f the u was no origi al oor . This part ch rch u ne e c e Th e w w of th e do bt at o tim a hap l . ood ork u be e the roof sho ld not ov rlooked , and that in porch e e th e wa is striking in its massiv n ss . On E . ll u e a w th e o tsid is rude figure of St Faith , to hom u e e e of ch rch is d dicat d . It is p rhaps the same a e th e e e f r g as e arli st r maining part o the chu c h . N ew r nell N W o t a . 86 . . p P g ( L . Ry ) consists of th e o ld e and e ne w e e t part , the High Str et , som str s be we e th e e nd o f th e e e th e t n W . High S tr t and r w Th e th e of ail ay station . church stands at top on th e the High S treet on a high position N . w e two a e side . I t is large , ith nav , aisles , ch nc l
and . h w . . W . to er , P and N . and S porc It is f we - e but e a lo ty , ll proportion d church , spoil d in
. u w the interior by galleries M ch poor P . ork in the windows has detracte d from th e chara c te r of n the t wo e e u e of w are the this buildi g , b st f at r s hich c w e uc por hes . The S . door ay and porch hav m h
D e c w . w e rich . ork ; the N porch , ith a parvis , is e e Th e o f the e and ribb d , but is imp rfect . roof nav e e 1 e are e e e aisl s (lat 5th c ntury) r markabl . Ther is a e f of o n e n f a br ss figy a man door l adi g to roo . e o f On S . sid churchyard is a tomb to T . A . w w . Hamilton , ith inscription by Co per (c e w a e w N port P gnell is an anci nt to n . I t is e one U lf e th e said that it b longed to , a Than in e w r b ut w e th e r ign of E d a d the Confessor , h n
‘ e was - Ansc ulf Norman Surv y made , William F itz , we w th e the a po rful baron , o ned manor , and in e nlc Pa ane l w e r ign of William Rufus F g , from hos 203 BUCKINGHA M SHI RE
th e w e e was family to n derives its s cond nam , i n f e Tic kfo rd possession , and ound d Priory i n the f w parish o Newport Pagnell . This as o ne o f the numerous r e ligious e stablishments subs e rvient to f o f a oreign monastery , until , i n the reign Henry was o f IV . , i t subj ected to the Priory Holy
Trinity, York , at the dissolution its revenues wer e appropriat e d by Wols e y towards the founda o f e u tion his Colleg at Oxford . D ring the Civil w was o f e c War, Ne port Pagnell great strat gi of w i mportance . The occu pation this to n by the 16 w Royalists , in 4 3 , cut the communication bet een w London and the North , and Essex marched ith seven London regiments and forced the Royalists w e to abandon the to n . A strong Parliam ntary e 16 garrison replaced them , and her , i n 44 , ’ w i of Crom ell s eldest surviv ng son , Oliver, died Th e er Sir e smallpox . garrison , und Samuel Luk , ’ ’ th e o f H uaibras original Butl er s , successfully e w repuls d many Royalist attacks , and the to n remained strongly fortified for two years and nine months . Newport Pagnell forms a good starting - point from which to visit the nu merous and interesting churches which are to be found b e tween i t and the borders o f B e dfordshire and Northampton shire . '
N ewton Blossomvnlle 2 . (T urvey, Beds , m ) is a f of o n . o th e small village S side valley the Ouse , f t h e slow waters of which touch the N . side o the churchyard . This proximity to the river gives an i ndividuality to this church among the reeds and - i e mist and water birds . It is arch tecturally attra
w . tive , ith a nave , and N aisl e extending the l ength 204
B UCKI NGHA M SHI RE
N E e To the . . of the village is the Grang , a fine u e o ne e of l Tudor Ho s , at time the r sidence Cardina
Wolsey, and visited by Queen E lizabeth in one of e her royal progress s . The old moated Manor 1 th e House ( 7 c ntury) stands about a mile to E . of c th e e f 16 th chur h , and timb red ramed Moat F arm ( e century) is half a mile near r . N or tb M ar ston see ( Marston). N otle Abbe — t e y y (Thame , 4 A mong the ligious house s of Buckinghamshire which ex isted e e s n b fore the Reformation, Notley Abb y wa o e of the was e e most important . It found d by Walt r ff of u th e Gi ard , first E arl B ckingham , for monk s of 1 16 2 the d u Augustine Order , about , and until issol tion of the monaste ries it grew in consideration and we was w e alth . It endo ed from time to tim by additional lands in Buck s and in the neighbouring c e of w ounti s , and at the accession E d ard IV . the of w was e Priory Chet ode added to it . L ike som e w e abb ys of hich consid rable ruins still e xist , such and was e as Tintern Bolton , it plac d in a valley, th e e e r e the close to Tham , und the sh lter of rising u the e of gro nd to the N . of the stream . F rom dat u fe u -da its dissol tion it quick ly ll into r ins , and to y no e but th e e u E E substantial portion is l ft b autif l . . e e w one e nd of corb l tabl , hich forms a barn , and e th e which is depict d in Parker and Rickman , and turre t which stands at the corner of the ne w ho use on the site of an olde r building which bears the name of e e e Notl y Abb y . Other fragm nts may be found , but e e are e to e th s too scatter d be of archit ctural value . e th e e of Not also dov cot to the N . the house . f e e O le 1 . e a y (Brill , 5 m ) is attractiv ly n stl d at th e f oot of Brill Hill , straggling from the tall 2 06 NOTLEY A BBE Y— OLNE Y slope s to th e low me adows which stre tch away e Th e e e e to Tham . church has som int r sting w De c w features . The to er is . , ith a bold stair e the we w turret at the S . E . angl rising above to r ith De c w w a finial . A S . transept has good . indo s . th e e e e On outside is an unusual s pulchral r c ss , th e only one in Buck s with a cinque foiled Th e w De c e arch . S . door ay is . ; inside , the nav are e N th e arches exampl s of transition . , as is font . Olne w e w e y (Midland Rail ay and N port Pagn ll , L ondon and North - Western Railway) li e s in th e of th e are e e N . county . A round it gath r d of w e see w memories Co p r ( also Weston Under ood), e e e as about Stok Pog s linger those of Gray . Oln y is to- day much as it was in th e middle of the 18th Th e w the century . church by the ater , compact ’ w e th e rectory , Co p r s substantial and plain house in m - e e the - e arket squar , ev n little tiled summer hous th e e e of in gard n behind it , r mind us Olney as it was e 1 6 w e a c ntury and a half ago . In 7 7 Co p r arrive d at Olne y about eighte e n ye ars later ( 17 86) e de w he mov d to Weston Un r ood , a place as e f e e familiar to him as Oln y itsel , and nin y ars e w n f Fe w me n aft r ards he fi ally le t the county . whose home has be en in one place for so long a time have re m aine d in it so much as Cowper staye d e e at Oln y and W ston . N E The station is to the . . in the upper part ’ of the w - w e re d to n . In the mark et square Co p r s u e now w e w b e brick ho s , the Co p r Museum , ill e two notic d at the S . E . side . It has doors , as w e but when Cowper and Mrs Un in liv d in it , n u we e Y ou e they o ly occ pied the st rn half. hav 20 7 B UCKINGHAM SHI RE
w w ’ not forgotten , Co per rites to Mrs U nwin s “ 1 8 1 we son in 7 , that the building inhabit ” t wo consists of mansions . The entrance passage ’ and small room on th e right formed Cowper s — hall o n the left is the parlour his favourite seat was w w in i t at the second indo . A littl e way down West Street a butcher’s shop will be seen o n - l eft hand side . A passage by it has th e “ ’ t w o n no ice , To the poet Co per s garden , and payment of a small fee at this shop o ne can w of w al k round the garden , in a corner hich is f still the amous summerhouse . The back of on e the vicarage can be seen , and can appreciate w h ow quite el l , to mak e intercourse more easy between Mr Newton at the vicarag e and Cowper w and M rs Un in in the Square , a communication as we two w Opened bet en the houses . o f In this secluded littl e place most the Task , “ ” “ w s w O ur w a . as ell as John Gilpin , ritten w ” w w severest inter, he rites to Mr Un in (June “ 8 no w , commonly called the spring, is over, and I find myself in my favourite recess , the greenhouse . In such a situation , so silent , w f so shady, here no human oot is heard, and where only my myrtles presume to peep in at w w the indo , you may suppose I have no inter ruption to complain o f and that my thoughts f e are per ectly at my command . But the b auties o f the spot are themselves an interruption , my attentions being called upon by thos e very s row e myrtl e , by a of grass pinks j ust b ginning of to blossom , and by a bed beans already in ” bloom . o f o n f Out West Street , a street the l e t l eads 20 8
OLN E Y
w the visitor past the vicarage, hich is interesting as an exampl e of domestic architecture o f th e 18th for old was century , the house almost 1 6 entirely rebuilt in 7 7 . Returning again to West Street we follow it to the church close to the ban k of the Ouse
Sl ow - wi ndi ng through th e l eve l pl ai n ’ ” O f s ac ous mea s ca e s nk e o e r p i d , with ttl pri l d .
d th e On a summer evening the elicate mists , on tranquil river, the high ground across the vall ey the tower of E mberton rising from the elms , are a pl easant sight . The church is architecturally one of the most on e of few w i mportant i n Bucks , and the ith a w o f spire, hich rises from a cornice masks and
w . flo ers , and has octagonal pillars at the angl es w The hol e building is entirely in the Dec . style , and a fin e exampl e of its earli er and more re so served manner . When a building is compl ete it is unnecessary to point to specific details . On w w of the hol e the to er and spire are most interest . Bu t i t is unqu estionably from its association with w — w Co per and his fri ends the gentl e M ary Un in , w the severe John Ne ton , Lady Hesketh and w 18th Lady Austin , ith the microcosm of c entury f w “ li e , hich is imperishably preserved in the Task that Oln ey h as an abiding interest . ’ — Cowper s oak the Yardley oak of the poem
“ ” Of t eno mous h moss-cus one oo gir h r , wit hi d r t,
for is a pl easant obj ect a wal k . It is i n Yardley e w o f For st , hich is within the borders North 0 2 09 BUCK I NGHA M SHI RE
shir ampton e . The main road to Northampton f w two must be ollo ed for miles , and then a road on the left taken which brings o n e through w Yardl ey Chase to the old hollo oak . A shorter and pleasanter way is to tak e the path from the Pi hkl e close called the g . To reach i t go down Spring Lan e which joins the market - place j ust N W . of . . the Bull Hotel This path runs nearly e w parall l ith the road from Ol ney to Weston . It leads to the height which Cowper used to call th e ff ff ff cli the cli is no cli , nor at all lik e one , but a beautiful terrace sloping gently down to ” Th e the Ouse . path presently crosses over w f o f the rail ay, then passes the armhouse Hungry w Hall , and so to Kiln ick Wood, and presently
oak . the is reached A mil e distant, close to the o ld-f f o f ashioned armhouse Chase Farm , is another
e . oak w 1n but sound tr e This is the , hich ’ C ovv e r s was w p time call ed Judith , hich he mentions in his correspondence . It is int e r e st i ng to note that from a memorandum found among Cowper’s correspondence this tree meas ure d 2 8 i n his time feet 5 inches i n girth , and n o w i t is 3 2 feet ; thus it has i ncreased - f . To about 35 eet in a century and a hal f day, wa by the y, it is called Gog, and the old tree near a e e e it M gog . The roads about Ol n y are exc ll nt , and i t will b e found a capital end or begin ning o f a bicycl e e xpedition .
r n 2 . Owing (Wadde sdon Mano Statio , 5 m ) is a high -standing village looking ove r a fine expanse W o f . pastures to the , and to the E . over th e w w more undulating land to ards Winslo . The
0 . o f church ( ) is at the W end the village . It is 2 10
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e e fe w Th e th r are features of architectural value . th e e 1 th u w roof of nav ( 5 cent ry) is , ho ever , an int e re sting and unusual e xample of good woodwork e e e are in a small church . S veral int r sting relics to be s e en of the successive generations which have — passe d away d uring the e xistence of th e church a ffi th we e stone co n , probably 13 century , in the to r som e - of- curious rhym s on boards , a large coat arms of
u e e w e w e . Q e n Ann , and a font ith a l aden bo l (rar ) we e The interest of the church is , ho v r, centre d on the several memorials of the P e nn family A brass to John Penn ( 1 597 ) and
w e . e e Ursula , his if This repr sents a pl asant e u a e w e e f at red man of middle g , ith point d b ard uff — e now and r , and in plate armour the figur is e o ff the w th e f - e brok n at aist . Opposite is ull l ngth e w — we h as e figur of his ife the lo r part gon . B e neath the plac e to which their fe et exte nded is of e a group their children . This laborate and pleasing me morial is compl e ted by four L atin line s to the effect that burial does not separate two kindre d spirits
o um te e no claun duntur me m a se ulchro H r rr br p , Se d ca iunt an mas s de ra so a as p i y l pi , uo s A mo u nivit mo s se e rare o e s as Q r , rti p p t t ” im h o e umo o N on valuit unctos ce r us . , j t l
e r ( 2 ) Brasses to William P nn , Esq . , in armou w e and his if , Martha ( 3 ) 16 1 w e w John P e nn ( 4 ) and his if , Sarah , ith e We e ffigies und e rneath of the ir ten childr n . note ’ a change which took pl ace in men s armour in ’ L s e the th e beginning of Charles reign , nam ly, protection of the l e gs by heavy jack - boots inste ad 2 12 PENN
o f a b s t h e e ffi j m . (4) On a slab near is brass gy o f w f of e Susan , i e Sir Henry Drury, and moth r o f M rs Sarah Penn (5) An e arli e r brass to Elizabeth Rok ( 1540 ) represents her in w in her shroud , beneath hich is the inscription Th the unusual form o f a prayer . e border is a good and rare exampl e o f ornate R e naissance th e tracery . At entrance to the nave is a stone w o f wh o slab hich marks the grave Roger Penn , e 1 1 w di d unmarried in 7 3 , hen the property w fe e passed to his sister, the i of Sir Nathani l w of Curzon , and so passed a ay from the Penns th e e Penn . There should be noted, also, ston in e nd w h e o f the nave (W . ) hich indicates t tomb o f William Penn , the infant son Thomas Penn , — one o f the sons of William Penn according to o f w e the parish register , others hose grandchildr n e are buried in the same grav . This brings us to the debated question o f the connection betwe e n e e Penn and William Penn . That he consid r d that he was one of the family there can be no on doubt , for the monument to his father, of Admiral Penn , in the church S t M ary Red ff e th e cli e , at Bristol , he is said to hav been son of of of Gil es Penn , the Penns Penn Lodge , in of of the county Wilts , and those Penns Penn i n ” the county of Bucks this inscription was pro w We bably ri tten by William Penn himself. w of have , ho ever, no direct evidence any connec w two w tion bet een the families . But there ere Penns o f Penn long before those whose nam e s and features are preserved to us in the ti me and 1 th e resisting brasses , in the 4th century — Lords of th e Manor were the Berkeleys whose 2 13 BUCKINGHAM SHI R E
was e e o n o f home Berkel y Castl , the estuary the
. w o ne Severn I t may ell be , therefore , that some o f the Penns of Penn passed with his lord into the w w th e o f est county, from hom descended Penns e O f th e se of h Min ty . the first w omwe have know Pe n n a eoman wh o 1 1 l edge is William , y , died in 59 Two mil es from Penn is the burial -ground o f see w was Jordans ( p . here William Penn laid f — two to rest a ter a strenuous life miles distant , it e is r asonabl e to assume , from the quiet haml et which was the home for centuries o f his race though of the house where later generations lived now no traces remain , the M anor House having been long since replaced by a modern building .
A short distance along the road to Wycombe , o n t h e w right , is a field hich is call ed the French w School M eado . I n it there stood the house which Burk e used in 1796 as a school for father ’ n emi ris f e o r l ess you g French g . H e o ten rod w f Be aconsfield al ked rom to see them , and the f littl e oreigners , in their military school dress , w w e andered abou t the beech oods and lan s . ’ After Burk e s death the school was for som e years supported by the Government . Penn Street is a picturesque haml et and eccl esiastical parish ( 18 with a pretty modern church o n the uplands between Amersham
‘ and Penn . On the S . side is Penn House ’ ( Earl Howe s).
Pitebeott d 2 . (Wa desdon Manor Station , m ) is w on w a small village, ith a church , an eminenc e ith th e o f a fine view to the W . over val e Ayl esbury . Th e E . E church is small and unimportant , . in
a w . w w . gener l character, ith poor P indo s 2 14
BUCKINGHA MSHI RE w n w are D e c w w e r and i do s . , ith flo ing trac y , are e c e e the 1 th - c e u x ell nt work . Not also s nt ry f th e De c . e a the e e c e ont and s dili , and grot squ orb ls the e of chanc l arch . Pr ertwood e e e e a 2 (G r at Miss nd n , M tropolit n , % m - m. f s a . e o t e e ; High Wycomb , 4§ ) 57 . abov — l e vel is a ne w parish with a church built in 18 t he e o f e u o f 49. I t is centr a high plat a full e a w d pl sant oo s and bottoms . Pr inces R isbor ou b see b u g ( Ris oro gh). uainton u 8c R w G . C . Q (Q ainton Road , M . ail ay, 1 m — e Ch e ntone — e . ) Dom sday , is an inter sting and e e e e e b w th e acc ssibl villag , pl asantly plac d elo high grassy hills which rise above it to the N E e an . w e e are e e d e . , from hich th r x t nsiv d light ful e th e f O f e vi ws towards e bord rs o x ordshir . At the top of the gre e n are the re mnant of an old cross and a farmhouse built by Judge D orme r in 1 2 e e t d n the 7 3 , n ar a y ol er buildi g , and behind now e e w s ldom se n indmill . The - l th e u market cross , probably of the g c nt ry, of which the ste ps and part of th e column only are
the o ne e th e un . left , is only that r mains in co ty e - s e me dimval Mark t crosse we r common in England . e c a e E rected in a religious spirit, they b m structure s from whic h proclamations and notice s we e u w e e the r iss ed , and round which er gather d e f n e the buyers and sell rs o the cou trysid . In stre e t to the right ( E ) at the head of the gre e n e e are som old cottage s with thatch d roofs . At th e e e to the e nd is the church among tr s . Close is row e e it a of almshous s , d lightful examples of u w domestic architecture , b ilt by Richard Win ood , we 16 8 e son of Sir Ralph ( Datchet), in 7 . Nin 2 16
BUCKI NGHAMSH I RE and f t e th e a e e a son ( a her and son di d in s m y r , w no th e e hich is w in tow r . the e 16 In the wall of S . aisl is a monument ( 3 7) — to Dr Richard Bre tt and his wife two figures e e e kn ling at a desk and a l ngthy L atin inscription . Th ere are oth e r monume nts of no spe cial im a wh o e portance , chiefly to the Pigott f mily, hav live d at D oddershall H ous e in this parish since 1 0 Th e 5 3 . most important of the brasses is that e e 1 8 w to John Sp nce , R ctor , 4 5, on N . all of h W A e t e . e chancel . littl to , outsid altar rails , is th e c fligy of Mistre ss Marjery V e rne y to th e e s w l ft is a very mall brass of a oman, probably that of E lizabeth Chester to the right is u th e e are a gro p of children . Within s dilia e ffi ie s 1 6 0 w g of Joan Plessi , 3 , ith inscription w e 1 2 2 in F rench , of John L e is , R ctor , 4 , and
I wardb 1 10 . e of Richard y, 5 In the r ctory the drawing -room contains much fine wood w o ne e nd h as e . th e ork , oak pan lling (c of c e staircase is also arved oak . Lipscomb 1 e ( 7 7 3 the historian of Buckinghamshir , as e w born her . uar rmdon A 1 — Th e Q ( ylesbury , 2 Manor H ouse and Ch ape l of S t P e te r were at o ne time o f e e now e are consid rabl importance . A ll that r mains two e e S point d arch s and piers on . , and one arch and N fe f e w on w o . a piec of all . , and a bits masonry The L e e s of Q uarrendon were an ancie nt
e Sir e L ee R . G 1 0 family . Of th se , H nry , . ( 53 was e w H e ne w b st kno n . built a mansion and e nte rtained Quee n E lizabe th with gr e at r 2 magnifice nce fo two days in August 159 . Of e u e th e his imposing fun ral at Q arr ndon, long 2 18 QUAR RENDON— RADNAGE
one procession , the banners and the chargers , e may read in a M S . in the British M us um w w e adorn ed ith dra ings of his helm t , flags and Th e c ofli n . 1 1 fo . 2 2 . (Add M SS . 44 7 , , p spl endid monument to Sir Henry L e e and som e 0 others were in e xistence up to 183 . The con trast of the forlorn ruins i n the lo w meadows with the former glories of the place are suggestiv e . The ruins are reached by a cartway from Bicester Road close to the on e - mile stone from Aylesbury right hand or by a footpath near a ston e e or f th e bridg mil e further, by a rough road rom W w 1 e f f . Winslo Road , mil rom Aylesbury l e t ( )
R adcli ffe 1 . e e (Buckingham , 1 m ) is agr ably o f grouped in the vall ey W . Buckingham , round a f tributary o the Ouse , The church on e the N . sid of the village , half a mile from e w main road from Buckingham to Ting ick , e a is an int resting little building . I t cont ins w much old material reset . The S . door ay is a e Transitional N . I t has b nded shafts , foliat d hand w o f capital s , and a into hich a species a d e e toothe d n cabl ornament is ingeniously work d . The chanc e l arch has foliated capitals and e old toothe d orname nt . There are fragm nts of 1 - glass and 3th century font . Th e hamlet of Chackmore in this parish is
1 . about 5 m from Radclive . R adna e g (4% m . West Wycombe Station) con of w sists of scattered groups of cottages , one hich , e th e known as the City , is nearly a mil from u th e e e of th e ch rch , and is delightfully on v rg
Chilterns . Radnage is not mentioned in Domes b ut o was day, the man r granted to the Knights 2 19 BUCKI NGHAM SHIRE
12 th Templars in the cen tury . The church , w t h e striking in its original simplicity , stands ith vicarage to the west on the sid e o f a hill b e low w e Bledlo Ridge , and is surrounded on thre sides by trees , but to the south commands a charming and extensive view. It is a small building with e w a chancel , nav , c entral to er and south porch . w of w The lo er part to er, completely dividing ] nave and chance , contains a blocked Norman
w w w. E. H. door ay and indo The upper stage is ,
. w w w e the E indo , piscina alls and arches in sam style . Most of the other windows are good Dec .
The nave has a handsome P . roof. In the porch t h e old w w 16 e is ooden bier, ith the date 99 carv d w o n . t o one it There are brasses , to the memory o f w f William Este, his i e and children and o f R adne d the other to William Syer, parson g and his wife Jane R a venstone o n (Oln ey, 3 m . ) is a small village h e f [ t side o a small grassy valley . n days gon e was of by it a place some importance , for Henry o o f I I I . f unded a priory of the order St Augustin e , which existed till the dissolution of the religious 16 w houses in the th century, hen the building was 1 8 demolished . In 5 7 Queen Elizabeth gave w all the property of the late priory, hich in the to meantime had been granted Cardinal Wolsey, th e and all Manor of Ravenstone , to Sir M oyl e w Finch . The Finches ere an unusually abl e f f H e nea e amily, and its ame culminated in g Finch , 16 2 1- 16 82 of wh o , second son Sir Moyle , became Lord Chancellor of E ngland and E arl of Notting w e to ham , hose splendid tomb gives importanc w Ravenstone Church , hich is a considerabl e 2 20
B UCKI NGHAM SHIRE
for was some interesting associations , it the 18 o f property in the th c entury Allen , first Earl Bathurst ( 1684 on e of the famous group of noblemen and men o f l e tte rs who are insepar w of ably connected ith the reign Queen Ann e . A pl easant picture of Lord Bathu rst i n his old w age, pl easing and ready to be pl eased , ill be ’ of found in the third Sterne s Letters to Eliza . R isborou b Pr ince: g , (station on Great Western w — Rail ay, O xford and Aylesbury branch) Domes — W R ise b er I . S. . day, g m of church , is a small w w to n n ear the break i n the Chilterns, hich to W S . the . forms the Wycombe Vall ey . The was of manor part the royal demesne , and in the 13th and early part of 14th c e nturies it had w 1 2 become kno n as Great Risborough . In 3 4 Comitis i t is denominated Risborough , a name w w hich i t has sinc e retained , and hich probably arose from the fact of the conn ection of the m w f anor ith the Sovereign or his amily, since of Henry I II . gave the lordship this manor to his h o f w was brother Ric ard, Earl Corn all , and it of w held by Edmund , Earl Corn all , till his death 0 w 1 0 w . in 3 , hen i t reverted to the Cro n I t is e w - a pl asant littl e place , ith a small market house in the centre . I n the street to the W . nearly opposite the church is a picturesque group of old o n e w houses , and others may be noted , as hich on of may be seen the N . side the church . This two ] w has a nave , aisles and chance , a square to er w w o ne w ith a small steeple , hich replaced hich 180 2 was fe ll in . The church compl etely 86 s E E wa . . e 1 . two r stored in 7 It an church , and w o n o f w windo s N . side chancel sho its original 2 2 2 RISBO ROU G H— MONK S RISBOROUGH
t the e are De c Th e E charac er, but oth rs . . e e window is modern . Not the piscina and sedil
. we e . w . Dec in S all This church is not , ho v r , e e of qual in interest to othe rs on the N . edg te the Chil rns . Risbor ou M onér Pr ior: gh , or (P rinces Ris o h 1 m C C M b roug , 1} . ; Wendover , . . and . , — 5 Th e name is deriv e d from t he fact that shortly be fore th e ye ar 10 00 the manor was give n of e u th e to the church Cant rb ry . A t time of the r e Su vey it belong d to L anfranc , A rchbishop of e th e e e Cant rbury . Perhaps most attractiv plac on the e northern margin of the Chilterns , the villag th e e e I cknield lies on N . sid of the Upp r Way, old e and is formed of a group of delightful cottag s , e e e some b ing thatch d and several half timb red , 0 among pl e asant gardens . The church ( ) is at
. e and the N side of the villag , the rectory, a e u e th e pictur sq e red hous , at E . side of the Th e u e churchyard . church is a fine and instr ctiv l f th e w e bui ding , rom manner in hich the earli r are e a to l e th e w s en giving w y ater styl s . On to er are e th e w visibl mark s of the pointed roof, hich has e been replaced by a flatter one . The only r mnant fin th e . u th e w e e of N ch rch is font hich is v ry , e e w e b ing flut d , with a flo ing loop ornam nt
th e w . e nd round margin . The to er at W is e w D ec . , and much resembles that at Bl dlo . Th e Th e e . e e W front is specially notic abl . w P u most important windo s are . , for a co ntry u e ch rch remarkably fine , that in N . trans pt e Th e t wo e is specially good . church has aisl s , c e e fine hanc l and a N . transept . Th re is a e e n 1 th c e w e rood scr , late 5 ntury , ith nin panels 2 2 3 BUCK INGHAM SHI RE
w are on hich in colours the heads of nine prophets . Th e remaining thre e were stolen by workme n a e m ny y ars ago . A t S . side of chancel , close to w - e f communion rails , is a ell preserv d brass o a w priest, ithout an inscription , regarded as that of
e u 1 60 . e nd of Rob rt Bl ndell , Rector , 3 , and at E two e fli ie s w S . aisle are half g of a man and his ife
(c . and at the foot of the lectern a brass w two th e sho ing sons and five daughters , remains of a larger memorial . S ome old tiles by the e lectern and in N . aisle should be not d , as also of D e c e the remains a . niche in N . aisle . B yond w e e the church, hich is pleasantly shad d , are s en w s e e meado s and ome pictur squ farm buildings , and in the int e rvening field a square 16th - c e ntury
t . doveco , recently restored , having on the N side e - the r mains of a richly carved doorway .
St L eonard: . e ( Wendover , 3% m ) is a haml t of e e w Th e considerable l vation, but ithout interest . church is practically mode rn . Sa underton ( Princes Risborough , m Saun m r . e cal der on , 35 ; this station , by its nam , is c ulate d to be a snare to the unwary visitor) is a u u 1888- 18 1 q iet little place . The church (reb ilt 9 with the old mate rials) has not much archite ctural
e . Th e w u inter st font , ith some good though m ch w w orn ork , has a circular base , cable ornament , and e w n e w w flut d bo l , surmou ted by rud flo ers , sho ing the th e e very early origin of original church . Th re
t wo E. E . w are blocked door ays , but the character D e c e f . w o the building is chiefly . On S all of nav th e e c fli of is r mnant of a brass , the half gy a w w s e oman , much orn , the inscription lo t, the dat 0 supposed to be about 14 3 . 2 24
BU CKI NGHAM SH IRE
e n w th e Th e church is inter sti g . The to er is in
e n e n e two . centre , and ther is a av , cha c l and aisles P now out Th e tower ( . ) is of proportion to the rest n o ne the o of the buildi g, but at time roof of b th was nave and chancel high pitched , and reduced w the to er to its proper proportion . The turret, w w higher than the to er, hich is rare , should be fe e noticed . There is scarcely a atur i n the w De c church hich is not valuabl e . Note the . w e - on W . door, ith excell ntly preserved heads w w w w dripstone , and indo s , the side indo s i n
f . . E. E same styl e , and the beauti ul Trans N to . w w o f ] fi ve - e indo s the chance . The light P . ast ff f window is e ective rom the interior . In the
or E E. . nave Trans . N . . pillars on the S side are E E f w f e noticeabl e, as is the . . ont , ith tre oil d o f panels and some fin e corbels . At the E . end ff d S . aisl e the monument to Thomas Sta ord ( ied
16 0 7) is very good work . The chief d e tail is the recumben t e fligy in white marbl e o f a man o n f w ff w his l e t side i n armour ith ru . Belo are, w w f f i n high relief, a oman (his i e), to her le t f w are our men , and to the right three omen o n e w oman and three men hold skulls , and all kneel on cushions ; there is more skill in the o f grouping these figures than is usually seen . th e e This monumen t is pl easing, because upp r e — n portion is simpl only an inscriptio , above th e the which are family arms . In chancel i s e e nu to u A shf ld another int r sting mo ment E dm nd y , 1 and w e —a w knight , 77 , his if , tomb ith thre e 5 — sl e nde r c olumns one of jasper and two of e porphyry . A bove in a pedim nt , with minute rn n are n e r a o ame ts , , amo g oth rs , emark ble heads 226 SHENL E Y— SI M P SON f w o lions . The hol e is more li ke Italian than w English ork .
To . of on . o f the W the village , S side a lan e, w are some ancient earth orks , but i t is impossibl e to state the p e riod to which they belong . ’ b éer rin ton e W ort g (N p Pagnell , London and w 2 North Western Rail ay, } m Olney, Midland
w . o f of Rail ay, 3% m ) is a village some size , part which lies e ach side of the main road between
Newport Pagn ell and Oln ey . It has some character from the number of thatched white and substantial cottages and houses . The church , 18 0 is o n restored in 7 , seen an eminence to the of N . this road, close to the upper part of the village . I t is a fine church , in a fin e situation . w w w The to er rises from bet een the nave , ith N . and S . aisles and clerestory, and the chancel . Internally the building is lofty and well - pro — r on N . portioned circular pilla s , and octagonal
w w of P. on . . S The W indo five lights , , is ex ll t w w of c e en . . , as are the S . indo s , Dec , nave w w f o . The sedilia , S . all , sho ing marks Dec and — w P . in independent connection the P . ork being — placed above Dec . niches is interesting . Note f w also the Dec . piscina and the ont , P ith figure w belo the top and upright ornamentation below. A custom exists o f the church bell being rung ’ on e daily at o clock . Sim son— Se vinston e— p Domesday, (Bl etchl ey,
w 2 m. London and North Western Rail ay, 7} ) fe w e consists chiefly of a cottag s by the roadside,
. h w and at S end is the churc , ith a background e f w of wat r meadows . I t is cruci orm , ith some e w on e . w good De c . windows S . sid A mod rn indo 22 7 BUCKINGHAMSHI R E
. the e r has been inserted at E end . Part of tow
a 1 th - e u i s of the origin l 3 c nt ry church . Sla ton d n and p (Ched i gton, L ondon North 2 l w u e . e o th e W stern , m ) li s in the co ntry at e of h as E . sid the county . The church little e 1 interest ex c pt for the font , 3th century, and brasses to R e ginald M ause r James Tornay 1 1 t wo w Kn hton ( 5 9) and ives , and Thomas yg ( 152 9) S/ u b — a e - - o g . This h ml t of Upton cum Chalvey ee ) has dev e lope d sinc e the opening of th e great We stern R ailway in 183 8 into a large The e town . long and wide main stre t from e th e e old E . to W . includ s form r coaching he road from L ondon to B ath . T modern parish
u as 1 - O n ch rch ( S t Mary) w built in 83 5 37 . the a e th e w Windsor Ro d , outsid to n , is Ivy - w e e Sir . e 1 8 18 2 2 House , h r Wm H rschel ( 7 3 ) lived , and carried on his astronomical re u a th e searches . But Slo gh is chiefly import nt to stranger as a point from which to gain the e c u E pictur sque and interesting o ntry to the . , n h a e and comprisi g Burn m , Stoke Pog s other a vill ges . Soulb ur . y ( L eighton Buzzard , 3 m ) is on the we e e and S . side of a hill bet n the Ouse vall y of A Th e 0 fine vale ylesbury . church ( ) is a u D e e b ilding , and has many good . and P . as r u e th fe atures . I t w pa tly reb ilt arly in e 6 th e c 1 th century , chan el and nave are thus e quite differe nt in styl . There are many monuments inside th e church to the ancie nt v who e e s s family of L o ett , b cam po se sors 2 28
B UCKI NGHA M SHI RE
. w w structure and detail A massive to er, ith interlaced arches and pinnacles of a much l ater fe date, is the predominant external ature , rising f w v rom bet een the na e and the chancel . The
. w th e W door, hich is deeply recessed , is other most stri king external fe ature . I t i s mark e d by of w a profusion zigzag ornament , hich is the main ornament both inside and outside the church . wi The doorway should be compared th the W . w Ifll e w w in door ay at y, to hich , ho ever, it is
fe ri r o f . o in variety ornament The S . porch is 86 2 a restoration by Street i n 1 . Internally the effect o f this zigzag ornamen t round the arches of e w the nav is remarkably harmonious . Ste kl ey church belongs to a late period of Norman archi e tectu r , having been built i n the reign of e 1 1 ff of H nry I I . , abou t 54, by Geo rey, son ff Geo rey de Clinton , chamberlain and treasurer
I . w to Henry , together ith several other churches in oth e r counti es ; it was given to K enil worth ff w Priory by the second Geo rey, the ork havi ng been done under th e direction of the canons o f
Th e f . Kenilworth . ont is also Norman Stoke C ommon e (Slough , Gr at Western Rail
m f . th e e wa 2 . y, rom S side of common) is larg st o f o f 2 0 0 the commons Buckinghamshire, being e f on acres in ext nt . I t is delight ully situated an upland above S toke Poges and Wexham to the S e of . , and having the secluded villag Fulmer N W N E . in a hollow at the . . corner . At the . on e corner road leads to Burnham B eeches , and a e e e nother to H dg rl y . Stoke Goldin ton w e m g (Ne port Pagn ll , 4& . ) e Stoch e s G oldin tons we e D om sday , the g r a 2 3 0
B UCK I NGHAM SHIRE
e r the wa villag , pa tly from y it lies on the side of h e e e old e r a small ill . Th r are still som timb ed and e e Th e thatch d cottag s . church a c of h cru iform building , is at N . village , on igh d w re e e e w e u groun , ith an ag abl vi ov r the O sel Th 8 e e . vall y . door is approached through an a e u o f me the e t o e v n e li s . With xception of w pr tty
. w w e ] w w are now D ec indo s in chanc , the indo s all P e e h . t e good , though rath r too larg for r e e the 1 - e st uctur . Not 5th c ntury glass in N . — w w of e and the E E. w indo nav . font circular , ith f u o r small pillars . Th e two ye w tre e s in the churchyard we re n e 16 8 pla t d in 7 . Stoke M a ndeville (M e tropolitan) h as many n old tc e c e w quai t , tha h d ottag s . A short al k r u e a a e a w e e e w c e th o gh pl s nt m do s , nt r d by a i k t
e . e e of e e th e gat at S xtr mity villag , l ads to dis e c c n e us d parish chur h , harmi gly situat d but fast u e th e c e falling into r in . Not in chan l a piscina and 1 th - w w 1 - u w 5 century indo , and a 4th cent ry door ay The u w . in N . all of nave modern ch rch , at e of e be e for th e opposit end villag , should visit d sak e of the old font and admirabl e E lizabe than monument r e move d from th e old church . In a e e e u e e e ffi w r c ss is a r c mb nt marbl gy, ith traces of n e o f e colouring , of a you g girl in an attitud repos , h e r h e e h e r Two e ad support d by left hand . bab s w c e c e e th e r h e e in s addling loth s ompl t g oup . T s re pre s e nt the thre e childre n of Edmund Bru de ne ll wh o e the o f e , h ld Manor Stok , and by whom this monume nt was e re cte d (about e e e e John Hampd n poss ss d prop rty in this parish , and it was in re spe ct of the tax for ship -money on 2 3 2 STOKE MAND EVI LLE— STOK E POGE S this that th e legal proc e edings ( 16 3 5 which are so famous an e ve nt in the c onstit utional
of we e e . history England , r tak n Si oéeneburcb w 2 m e ( A ston Ro ant , % . ; W st e 6 o n one of th e e Wycomb S tation , m . ) is high st of th e h e Th e c urc h as e points C ilt rns . h h a chanc l , e e e r e and lo w VJ nav , N . trans pt , mod n N . aisl a . w Th r e c e rc w . to e . hanc l a h , ith a squint on N e fine a t a n c e ] sid , is Tr nsi ion l Norma . In the hanc , w a e e th e 8 on N . all , is an E st r r cess , and in . w e - e w e e c . all a ll pr s rv d and good D ec . pis ina th e u u e Th e c e ] ve Note un s al s tting . hanc and na e e e e e th e f the a e hav b n r stor d , roo of l tt r is of 1 e u e arc e e nd o f 5th c nt ry . Abov the h , at ast e th e e e th e f nav , is ancient ntranc to rood lo t . r we of we r The N . t ansept , font and lo r part to
'
Th e . E E w w are P . S porch has an . . door ay , ith - e on th e th e dog tooth ornam nt dripstone . In chanc e l are two late brass e s to m e mbe rs of th e Tippi ng family and affi x e d to th e c hanc e l S e e . o ne arch , N . and , is to Rob rt Morl and anothe r to R obe rt Morle wit h insc rip e c e u th e e o f tions in F r n h , as oft n fo nd in cas the 1 e ur knights in 5th c nt y . Stolae Pa er— e Sto ch e s = a c k e g Dom sday , sto ad d e nclosur e ; Pog e s is de rive d from a family of that name wh o owne d th e manor in the 14 th c e nt ury — u e e e w 2 . the (Slo gh , Gr at W st rn Rail ay, m from church) is unrivall e d in th e union of natural e w e a a c a b auty ith lit r ry and person l asso i tions . It would be difficult to find mo re charming and characte ristic Engli sh sce ne ry than that o f which th e u e u e 10 e r e ch rch (op n s mm r till 7 , oth tim s key e e r on th e at cottag by gat ) is the cent e . It is W . 2 33 BUCKINGHAM SHI RE or - o f a sh ort f l eft hand side , and distance rom , the ’ road from Slough to Stok e Common and G e rrard s a little o f Cross , above the gate Stok e Park . The road both above and below the entrance to the church is very attractive, from the old overhang w o f ing el ms by hich it is shaded . The village of e w Stok e is a mil e N . the church , j ust b lo f Stoke Common . I t extends rom the main road was to Stoke Court . The church probably buil t o f o n the site an older c hurch . It is a remark vvith old- w abl e building, a singular orld appear of two e ance . It consists a nave, aisles , chanc l
e . f e and tower at the N . sid At the E . end o th S . aisl e is the Hastings Chapel , darkened by a quaint of gall ery . This part the church is much later than the other portions , having been built about w of 1 . 557 . The oldest parts are the N all the chancel and th e piers o f the nave the latter are N w w . , hich sho s that the church must , i n some form , have been i n existence as early as the 1 w reign of Hen ry I . ( The to er is a good E E f . w o . exampl e ork , but all the other details e w are much later, and have r placed earlier ork . P th e w w . The E . indo , for exampl e , is , and other windows are debased Gothic . Near the E . end f w o f the wall o the S . aisl e is a piscina , hich shows that this portion of the church was at one o f ti me a chapel . The font is a good exampl e w o n w f simpl e Dec . ork , having the bo l the our on w of l eaved flower . Note the N . all the — w o f 1 th chancel a campy Dec . ork the 4 n w w century over a o vacant niche, hich or was probably once h eld, intended to hold , a o f M ol ns man of recu mbent statu e Sir John y , a 2 34
BU CKINGHAM SHI RE
A conspicuous but yet rather a vague figure in the early history of Stok e Poges is Sir John de M ol ns Molines (or y ), abl e, active , and ever seek o n ing his own enrichment . By his w energy he came to play an important part in the political ff o f of w . f 1 0 a airs the reign Ed ard I II , and a ter 3 3 f w received numerous grants rom the king, to hom “ he was val e ttus and treasurer of the chamber ar onc e soldier and civi l s e rvant . After numerous public services he incurred Edward’s displ easure
1 0 w f . in 34 , and his lands ere for eited Bu t he soon regai ned favour, and not only recovered his f fe e or ited property , but rec ived many additional
. for grants Disli ked by many his rapacity, his fe e e li continued contentious and activ to his d ath , w 1 6 2 was hich probably occurred in 3 . I t char ac t e ristic o f M olin e s that by his connection with h e e w for Stoke incr ased his ealth , he married
Egidia , cousin and heiress of Margaret , daughter o f o f o f Robert Poges Stok e Poges , a knight the 1 0 0 was w f o f shire in 3 . Margaret the i e John
M anduit of f . Somer ord , Wilts The manor passing through two gen erations o f desc e nd ants was ar l ength vested in his gr e at - grand Alian o re wh o daughter, , married Robert e f M ol e n s f Hung r ord , Lord y and Hunger ord , f and Stok e Poges thus passed into another amily, a e w e and ag in into anoth r , h n Mary, sol e daughter o f e and heiress Sir Thomas Hungerford , marri d B w K . . Ed ard , Lord Hastings , th e o f th e c th e th e To N . hurch , and in Park , fine Tudor chimne ys forming part of the re mnant of the old Manor H ous e (now the property o f th e Stoke Poge s as u Golf Club) rise from among the t ree s. It w b ilt in 236 S TO K E POG ES C H U R C H
BUCKINGHAM SH I RE
th e north , quite hidden among the trees , and at W S. . o n corner of Stoke village , bounded the E . n ow d by the road , stands Stok e Court as it is call e , w hich contains some portion of West End House , w w here Gray lived ith his uncle , M r Rogers , w and after his death ith his mother and aunt , f 1 2 - w rom 74 53 . It as at the beginning of this 1 2 Ele s stay in 74 that the gy wa commenced . Gray return ed to work upon it at Cambridge in 1 1 0 749, and he finished i t at Stok e Poges i n 7 5 . It was during the same prolific year ( 1742 ) that the charming but p essimistic Ode on a Dirtnnt Pr os ect o Eton C olle e was w w h was p f g ritten , hic of w doubtl ess the result many summer al ks , sinc e before G ray livedat West End House he used b to visit his uncl e by marriage, M r Antro us , at
w . Burnham , hich is near at hand Nor should the 1 1 w was year 7 5 be forgotten , hen Lady Cobham w of w o ner the M anor House , and ith her niec e, e wh o M iss Spe d, and her friend , Lady Schaub, we w of re staying ith her, became the heroines ’
L on Stor . e Gray s g y Persuad d by their hostess , the two ladies determined o n the strength of a f ’ common riend to make Gray s acquaintance , and — so on e afternoon they wal ked over the fi elds we — can follow the same path now to West End
House to call upon him .
A ace o f a o s not in u ff br w rri r , b , u u n in e s ks and ssue s B t r stli g th ir il ti .
Gray was doubtl ess the happier for the friendship of these sprightly ladies . of At the N . side the church in the adjoining w a meado is an unsightly monument to Gr y, 2 38 STOK E POGE S— STON E
f placed there by John Penn . Still urther to
- the N . is the red brick hospital or al mshouse , 1 6 built by Thomas Penn , 7 5. on was Baylis House, right of road to Slough , once the country - house of Lord Chancellor Rosslyn or was - w Loughborough , as his first and better kno n ” — - w wh o title the self seeking ary Wedderburn , from a Radical became suddenly a supporter o f 1 2 Lord North , and finally Lord Chanc ellor in 79 — in the Administration of the younger Pitt here 180 he died in 5.
Stone 2 . e (Ayl esbury , % m ) is a straggling villag — o n the Oxford road the parish also contains the
of e . w haml et Bishopston to the S E . The al ker from Aylesbury should cross the footbridge over w the rail ay at the station , and tak e the path through the meadows across the steepl echase
- e w on . course , the grand stand b ing a ay the right In ' e on the next field the path divid s , that the l eft l eading to Bishopstone . Note the charming vi ew of the distant Chilterns across the int e rve n - h ing valley . The right hand pat must be f we ollo d till it reaches the lane . In this note an oldf o n - w armhouse the right hand side , hich joins
‘ Th e the main road at the two mil e stone . other route is to follow the main road to the old of w 1 entrance Hart ell (right hand , 7} and then take the pathway across the park . This is o f two w the shorter the al ks . 0 on The church ( ) stands an artificial mound , w w ith a delightful Vi e to the S . It is cruciform , w e two . ith nav , N . aisl e , transepts and chancel
w . w The to er at W . end is Dec , i th a good W of rw w w . cornic e masks , and doo ay and indo at , 2 39 BU CKIN G H AM SH I R E w hich are also good ; i t is terminated by gabl es .
The S . porch is Dec but the doorway is late
. e two N and very attractiv , having columns with small capitals and zigzag arch . The piers and arches of the N . aisl e are apparently contem oran e ous w Th e e p ith the doorway . chanc l is
E E. w w w of h . t e , ith an E . indo three lancets
. e w w of th e S trans pt has a indo same character, but that with two lights in the N . trans e pt is e w w lat r, and sho s very ell the transition to the
. D e . w w Dec styl e . Some c indo s have been
. w of inserted i n the S all nave , and P . in the N .
. font N Amon int e r aisl e The , is remarkabl e . g a v e a e nt a e laced b nds , ha ing a small b ad orn m , pp ar m n and u a e e . as e h h ads , animals fish s I t w plac d e e 18 e e th h r in 4 5, and originally b long d to e u c of e e e e R eeor dr ch r h Hampst ad Norris , B rks . (S B a h e t h . . T u . as of , vol ix , p ch rch w c e c e ons rat d in 1 2 7 3 . e ff l n f i c ond1tion Four small brass igi es , a rly good ,
th e e w e . are i n nav , just belo the chanc l steps Those on left looking we st represen t William e 1 2 w fe th e G urn y ( 47 ) and his i , those on right w e 1 2 0 f . Th e Thos . Gorn y ( 5 ) and his i e , Agnes i w inscript on to hom is a palimpsest , the reverse e wh o side b ing inscribed to Christopher Thorpe , 1 1 died in 5 4 .
Ston Stra or d 2 . y tf (Wol verton , m ) is a small e w o n e of mark t to n the Watling Stre t , consisting - on e long street and a market square . Before 1 8 18 2 destructive fires in 7 3 and 4 , it contained — a good deal that was interesting on e of Qu e e n ’ e me diz val of w El eanor s cross s , a church , hich w f d the P . to er is l e t , and a chantry chapel founde 240
BUCKI NGHAM SH I RE
‘ are w h f o f the M arble Saloon , hic orms the centre e w - e the building , the Stat Dra ing Room and Stat Dining - Room on E and the M usic Room and o n f Library W . The house is , i n act , a splendid “ ” w . w palace ithout royalty Capability Bro n , e w f 1 the landscape gard ner, orked here rom 7 3 7 50 be fore h e became a ge neral d e sign e r o f we gardens , but the gardens re chiefly planned e e f by K nt b ore his time . f w w h The amous Sto e M S . ere purc ased by the Marquis o f Buckingham in 180 3 from a e f o f p rson named Astl e , and a ter some changes own e rship were bought by the British M useum o i n 1883 . On the death of the third Duk e f 188 Buckingham ( 9) the titl e became extinct , and ’ Stowe becam e the prope rty of the Duke s e ldest
th e a . daughter, B ron ess Kinloss The small
church has littl e interest . I t has been much
c two f . . al tered , but i t ontains air De c E w w to indo s , several tabl ets and inscriptions variou s D uk e s of Buc krngh am and othe r owne rs of we and e b ra e to r A lice Saundre s Sto , monum ntal ss s ( ) , 1 o f n e 2 e e 6 . c . 4 9 (floor cha c l , S ) ( ) Thomas T mpl w e e 1 2 f o f c h ance l N e and if , H ster , 59 ( loor , ot ’ o f c anc e of h e r t e also in chapel , N . h l , at foot mo h r s th e e ffi of e e Pe n ston tomb , small gy H st r y
e 1 0 e w . and th e nich (c . 3 3 ) ov r W . door ay we c u on N E of . . . S to H ouse and h rch , 3 m road from Buc kingham to Northampton (le ft e e u a e we hand) is an int r sting old ho se , c ll d Sto s e a u an e and th e e w Ca tl . It has q adr gl , out r alls for e fe e e e re have be e n built d nc . I t has b n but e t he as e x e store d , is uniqu in county an ampl - fortifie d e of a s e mi country hous . 2 42
BUCKINGHA M SHI RE
o f Cottesloe , and is inhabited by some the servants o f the estate, so that i t can be examined without diffi culty . Ta low Th a eslav p Domesday, p (Great Western Railway) rs a large village o n the l eft ban k of the Thames , opposite Maidenhead . Quite a large modern district i n Taplow has grown u p near the station and river . The oldest part N fe w stands high and li es to the . , and here a hal f timbered old cottages are a pleasan t contrast to the many which are modern and l ess picturesque . Es pecially attractive is the Elizabethan farm on house , next to a house called the Gables , the right -hand side o f the stre e t u p the hill north f w w . ards rom the church Taplo Court , a fine, old m w and in some parts , ansion , stands , ith fin e w w 111. of vi e s over river and oods , about i W . o f the church , and to the S . it stood the old of w church , hich no traces are l eft . Here in the w o n churchyard some years ago a Saxon barro , w ew was hich stood an ancient y tree, Opened and now examin ed . Various ancient relics, in the w British M useum , ere discovered . - 1 f The modern red brick church , n early m . rom the station , is unsightly, but contains some important now monu mental brasses . They are grou ped in o f the floor the nave close to the chancel steps . e fli of On the N . is the small gy a priest, Nichol e de Aumb e rde n e wi thin the head of a fl oriate d o f beautiful cross . S . this is a remark e fli o f abl e group of figures . The fin e gy Richard Manfe ld w ith his maiden sister, Isabel , to f his l e t , and his brother , John , in a shroud, to his right . Still further to the S . are three more 244 TA PL OW—TH ORNBORO UGH
e fli ies M anfe ld g , memorials to Thomas two w and his ives . From the station to the river is a mil e along a d wi e o f usty, u nattractive road . The d arch the w n ston e bridge, hich belo gs to Berkshire , is an agreeabl e feature below is Brunel ’s i mmense w w was 18 - 8 bric k rail ay arch hich buil t in 37 3 , one of of e the largest this material in existenc , and much preferable in app e arance to the modern - iron bridges . The river from the boat house by ’ on the bridge to Boulter s Lock (5 m . ) the Buc ks w low of side , is unattractive , ith islands osier beds ,
and uninteresting buildings . The backwater and ’ wi of th e mill at Boul ter s Lock , th the background w of w w h oods Taplo Court, is , ho ever, a c arming ’ o f w piece ri ver scen ery , hil e from Boulter s Lock r of t ee 1 m to the g ounds Cliveden ( ), 5 ” the hang w r w ing oods , va ying in colour, and interspersed ith o f w i mmense masses ild clematis , are unsurpassed f f in any portion o the Thames . They orm part of w e the Taplo and Cliv den estat es . Tottenboe w is a small parish , ith a littl e church f 2 111. o in the fields , % W . Bletchley, and behind w w was the ood called Ho e Park . This church built in 1540 from th e mate rials of the adjace nt o f Sne lsh all e re e of o ld P riory . Th are r mains w w glass in E . indo .
Tbo nooroa b . r g ( Buckingham , 3% m ) is a large
village with an attractive bit of village scenery . In its c e ntre 3 green with stock s and well
e a u on . . group d cott ges , and the ch rch S side I t has ] e . w . e . a W to er , nave , N aisl and chance Th re is w e some Dec . and some P . detail , ork having b en
done from the 13th to the 1 5th century . The N . arcade of the nave se e ms to be the oldest part which 245 BUCKI NGHAM SH IR E
of w fe remains . Note a brass W . Barton and i
h th e T ornborough Bridge , about a mile from
e me diaaval e un . villag , is the only bridg in the co ty was a u 1 e It origin lly b ilt in the 4th c ntury , but has e e e re e e b n r sto d from tim to tim . Tbornton n (Sto y Stratford , 4 m . Buckingham , 4 e e m . ) is only separat d from Northamptonshir by the e u e e e i e e R iv r O s . It is a pictur squ V llag nough , and th e contiguity of the church and b all mak e s a P th e e u e . the we . pr tty pict r E xcept to r , , church n e e 18 0 e e is moder , having b n rebuilt in 5 , but s v ral e e are th e f th e anci nt brass s on floor o chancel . I n a t h e t he e ffi ie s o f man S . E . corner , ne r altar , g a in — armour R obe rt I ngylton and his three w e — E e th e e ff of N . iv s and in the . corn r igy a w th e e oman, Jane St Johns (c . Near ntrance e nd be e e ffi r o f at W . should not d an gy in alabaste e w fe a John Barton (di d and of his i , I sabell , w h are hic important monuments . Thornton Hall was 18 0 fine e e e . built in 5 . I t has a av nu of lms Tin ewick 2 a g (Buckingham , 27 m . ) is long e on e e th e f villag , ither sid main road rom e e w e e e Buckingham to Bic st r , ith som pictur squ
e Th e 0 . thatch d buildings . church ( ) is on N Th e e e e . v side of, and abov , the villag na is e i r w divid d from N . aisle by c rcular pilla s ith e w o f 12 th plain arch s , hich are part the original
e and e e . c ntury building the S . aisle pi rs are mod rn w w . In the N . all is an old N . door ay, blocked — e and we P. th e The chanc l W . to r are latter has a good doorway ; the font is old and plain
w w . e ith octagonal bo l Not the brass , N . w a c e u all of ch n l , to E rasm s Williams I t is 2 46
BUCKINGHAMSHI R E
De w w c . I n the vestry is a small indo , removed f . e o f rom the chancel The arch s E . and W . e E E o f th e nav are plain . . Near the W . door we 1 - to r there is a fin e , probably 3th century, stone coffin . Turwerton (Brackl ey , Northamptonshire , m . ) is an unex pectedly picturesque vi llage , close of to the borders Northamptonshire, in a rather uninteresting agricultural , but capital hunting country . The church is extremely interesting
of . internally . The pi ers and arches N aisl e are N o n are . pure N . Those the S . Trans . , and w w E E sho the development to ards . . The w E E chancel sho s . . characteristics , but has a P E E f w w . . o E . indo and good arch ; most the
w . other windo s are Dec throughou t . Note a e c e E E D . nich and an . . piscina in chancel also of e t wo at E . end N . aisl e a monument d picting e e figures kn e ling at a d sk . The background is c om coloured, and the inscription is quaint , memorating Simon H e ynes Within the communion rai ls are thre e brass e ffi ie s . e e e e e e n of g , on N sid , in xc ll nt pr s rvatio , 8 e of h a e e and a priest , and on . sid T om s Gr n Th e u e nd his wife large ho se at N . of u t th e churchyard is the Manor H ouse , b il early in 1 7th century .
Tw ord 2 . yf (Marsh G ibbon Station , m ) is a small village now clos e to the Gre at Ce ntral w Th e u f e 12 0 Rail ay . ch rch ound d in 7 , but e w w . ith a good deal of lat ork and a good P roof, w i o n u e is well orth a v sit , acco nt esp cially of w e a e 1 w . ( ) S . door ay , N ith b k d ornaments and s we 2 w tars and flo rs ; ( ) circular font ith pillars , N of e e ffi late . ; ( 3) remnant ston gy (priest) 248 TU RWE STON—TYRINGHAM
w under Dec . canopy i n S . all ; ( 4) screen , restored ; ( 5) recumbent statu e o f knight in e 6 e chain armour in S . aisl ; ( ) at E . end elaborat monument to Viscount Wenman (di e d 1640 ) (7 ) i n the chancel the brass e ffigie s o f ( a ) John
Ev de n 1 1 f e . e r . , Rector, c 4 3 (hal l ength) ( ) in S o n o n e o f aisl e altar tomb, finely preserved ,
ff 1 0 . Thomas Gi ard, 55 (palimpsest ) ’ T ler : Green o f y , a hamlet High Wycombe, 186 created an eccl esiastical parish in 3 , has a modern church . T rin bnm Te lin h am y g (Domesday , g , later Te dlin h am g ), though a parish has no village . w e The church ( 3 m . Ne port Pagn ll , London and North Western Railway) is beautifully placed in of o n e the park Tyringham Hall , a gentl e rise abov th e w w Ouse, hich here flo s through the park . w o f The vi e from the churchyard , the bridge , w e e f f ater and tr es is d light ul , as is that rom the o ne o f bridge, a classical structure , reminding ’ w w r Vanbrugh s ork at Castl e Ho a d . The only noteworthy part of the church is the lower o f w w portion the to er , hich is N but the rest o f the building is modern and unimportant . On w of two — e ffi the E . all chantry are brasses the gy of t the man depicts John Tyringham , a Knigh , dressed in a tabard decorated with the St Andrew’s Cross ; that of the woman commemorates Mary di 1 w o f ( ed ife Anthony Catesby, and daughter of T rin h ams John Tyringham . The y g possessed — the manor fo r centuries having taken the name — of the place as their family name but the mal e 6 8 branch came to an end in 1 5. Tyringham W f N . o House is seen in the trees to the . the 249 BUCKINGHAM SHI R E
was 1 2 th e o ld church . It buil t in 7 9 , building “ w fo r e hich had stood several centuri s , a large and venerabl e mansion on the banks o f the ” was Ouse , as i t described by Richard Cumber in 1 w land the 7th c entury, being pulled do n . U ton-enm- C /Joloe 2 111 p y (Windsor, Slough 1 now rac ti Station , m . ) is a scattered village , p o f t ee cally part Slough ( ). At the Conquest the of O e to n e was manor Upton (Domesday, p ) granted by William to Hugh de Beauchamp , w son hose gave i t to M erton Convent , Surrey . Bulstrode Park and House (ree ) lie in this e parish , and nu merous brass s to the Bulstrode f w amily are in the church (St La rence), a small e f e w Norman structure . Note her a amous y f tree said to b e as old as th e church itsel . The n e w parish church i n Slough was built in ’ 1 8 w at 3 5, and St La rence s Church Upton w 18 0 it allo ed to fall al most into ruin , but in 5 was e . o f r stored and enlarged I t consists chancel , we e e e . c ntral to r , nav and modern S aisl . In the chance l th e Norman vaulting to th e mod e rn roof i s th e e of th e admirable . A t restoration trac s original w e e h e ee e colouring ere found , and th s av b n r pro duce d e the 8 w the ar a e a . Not in . all rem k bl piscin on th e S wall o f to we r a small sc ulptu re d e e e e e e mutilat d statu in tinted alabast r , r pr s nting the Holy Trinity (c . also the font, N th e . , and a curious old alms box . I n w e the E . all of chancel S . aisl , is old arch , on e ach side of it are two pointed arche s (also h l e v . on t e e re mov d from E . end of na e ) That ft w e e e e a is beautifully carved in ood , in xc ll nt pres rv w E E - tion , ith three . . dog tooth mouldings . In 2 50
BUCKINGHAM SH I RE the station to the village) is a unique village o n the E . shoulder of Lodge Hill , as it used to be on w now called, hich stands Waddesdon M anor, s o ne o f its hrubberies bordering side the village , which is full o f model cottages ; i n th e centr e is the Waddesdon (Village) Hall There w is an extensive vie to the N . and E . over the o f A l esb ur w Vale y y from the church , hich has been w much restored , and has a nave ith aisles , chancel ,
. w S . porch and massive W to er . The most int e r e sting parts are five Norman pillars and cor w e the responding arches , hich divid S . aisle from the e e on e nav , also the lancet arch s N . sid . e w Not the S . door ay , late Norman , and a good - w w w w . . two light Dec . indo in chancel P indo s w r have been inserted in to er and cl eresto y . Note — the marbl e pulpit with i nlaid mosaic a fine o f w o ut o f piece modern ork , bu t a littl e harmony w o f ith the character the church . Observe some o ne o n good brasses , especially S . side of nave to Sir Roger Dynham I t was found in 188 E th ro e w 7 at y p , here once stood the Dynham w chantry, hich contained the tomb and monu of w was ment Sir Roger, and hich demolished in 1 8 7 3 . The knight is represented in armour ; above are three canopies portions are miss o f ing . On the S . side chanc el is the brass ffi of H un t n don 1 e gy Sir Richard y g , Rector, 543, in eucharistic vestments ; also the shrouded of w 1 8- 88 figure Hugh Bristo e, Rector, 54 , on two e ffi ies— and the N . side more g Robert w f P ott . yg , and Marye, his i e — Waddesdon M anor the house was compl eted by the late Baron Ferdinand de Rothschild in 2 52
BUCKINGHAM SHI R E
’ ’ H e r M o e s o e he r a e s o e th r H p , F th r j y ’ A nd e ke h e r Fri e nd s d e light was sh e e Sh e was mos k n cou e ous not c o t i d , rt y, A me eke r soul e th e re c ou ld n ot be e . A mo e s h ue a ove ace d t , l ly gr , A e a e in h e r e au e ous face pp r d b t . On the same wall is a small but striking 17th century monume nt to a gentl e man name d B e al e and w f wh o e —h e 16 6 0 sh e 16 his i e , di d in and in 57 — two busts in rece sses divid e d by a bla c k marble e t o e c e pillar . Ther are w oth rs . At ea h end abov
u f O n . is the us al coat o arms . the S wall of the e u an e e nav is a mon ment to Sir T . Pinfold , min nt ’ w e wh o e the f e o f A dvo civil la y r , h ld o fic King s e of e e u wh o e cat and Chancellor P t rboro gh , and di d
1 0 1. e e Th e in 7 This is by Noll k ns . Manor H ous e was built in th e 16 th and e nlarge d in th e 1 th 7 century . Water Stratford is a me r e hamlet in th e Upper u e e e e a w O se Vall y ( Finmer , Gr at C ntral R il ay, 2 — e o ld th e e % L ittl is left of the church , nav n ] e e u 18 2 8 th e and cha ce having be n r b ilt in , and e e e the be ll turret mor r c ntly, but old doors and we e e e Th e w d . win ows r pres rv d . S . door is N ith zigzag mouldings , and a remarkable tympanum on e the u e e e which is d picted Savio r s at d . At the h ad n o f doorway not e the remarkabl e horizontal stri g . h e w N u re T chancel door ay , also . , has a sc lptu d tympanum . v don 1 m Wa en . (Woburn S ands Station , ) is a growing village on the high ground ove rlook ing Wob urn Sands and opposit e th e woods of
Woburn Abbey (Beds). The church has a w P e e . . nave , chanc l , N . aisl and W to er , , but D e the gene ral characte r of the church is c . 2 54 WAT E R STRATFORD— WE NDOVE R
- Th e ch urc h was r e store d in 184 8 49 . The Manor 16 00 h e th e House (c . ) about alf a mil from church , and th e contour fort in Wav e ndon Wood add to th e e e of int r st this place . Wendover e e We ndour (M tropolitan), form rly , is an ft e e 1 . attractiv littl town (4 3 ) in the Chiltern Hills , and e c u e an ex cellent centre for x rsions , ither E . by Bod dington Hill and Halton Wood t o Tring and the H e rts or W n to border , . alo g the summit of Coombe Hill e Cheque rs Court and Ell e sborough . The centuri s have ' ’ no t e W e of chang d endover , and L land s description it as “ u f w two e e we a pretty thoro gh are to n , having str ts ll ” builde d with tymb re is as appropriate nowas it wasthre e - a- f e th e are and hal centuri s ago . In High Street many f- e of th e 16 1 hal timb red houses , mostly th and 7 th cen turie s and th e e of - e , in Tring Road i s a lin heavily thatch d -w we 160 0 16 2 0 Th e small indo d cottages , built to . w e a th e n e w e to n nestl s in a g p in Chiltern ra g , and h n e we a e 1s 1n of vi d from bov almost lost the dip the land . Th e of We ndo ve r n u n Manor , amo g the vario s cha ges of w e e e of the w of e e o n rs , onc form d part do ry K ath rin a n e M ar of A rr go , and the borough , like Am rsham and low h n e e for , avi g lost its Parliam ntary repres ntation e a e 16 2 th e e xer many y rs , obtain d it again in 3 through of e wh o e e e one of tions John Hampd n , th n b cam its e e w h e e 16 0 e m mb rs , hich r mained till 4 . W ndover con tinned to re turn two membe rs till th e Reform A ct of
18 2 w e was h e . 3 , h n it disfranc is d Among these mem 6 th e u e e 1 8 n . b rs occurs , in 7 , ame of B rk W e ndove r was for ye ars th e pock e t borough of the a e e e 1 8 E rl s V rn y, and it is said that at the lection of 7 4 th e re first appe ared an individual wh o became notorious in — sub se q ue nt e le ctionsincorruptb orough s Th e Maninth e M oon whobrou ht £ 6000 amon th e e s , g to distribute g vot r . 2 55 B UCKI NGHAM S H IRE
The church is reached by the London road, or f and then by a footpath (left), a littl e urther o n w by a lan e, or by going do n the High Street and taking the path by the schools . w The church , ith the Manor House behind it , of f and the picturesquen ess the surroundings , orms f a delight ul rural scene . E xternally it is flint w w ith a W . to er ; internally it is spacious and w two f e lofty, ith aisl es, a tri orium and chanc l , and is distinctly Dec . in styl e . Note the somewhat v w unusual piers , ery early Dec . , sho ing char ac te ristic s of w much earlier ork , and the capitals
S. w w w ith quaint animals , N . ith flo ers . h as -fl owe r . The S . door good ball ornament to Bradsc hawe w The brass William , ife and w of children S . all nave, is an i nteresting o f 16 th - exampl e century work . The wal ker wh o wishes to get among the f w for Chilterns , by ollo ing the Tring road 5mil e, and taking a footpath (right) opposite the last o f ro w o f f a cottages (le t), can reach the Halton
Woods and across the range to Tring (Herts). A more agreeabl e beginning to the wal k is to tak e f e the path (le t, not mark d on Ordnance Map) from the church into the road to St Leonards , and when this road almost touches the open hill side ( 1 to proceed by a grass bridl e road or to round Boddington Hill , climb to the p and walk through the beech woods till the path previously mentioned is struck at right angl es .
There is no public path as here indicated , but a w w respectabl e wal ker ill not be i nterfered ith .
o n e w . If ishes to go W along the range of hills , a w w to tak e the ro d across the rail ay, hich leads 256
WE NDOVE R—WE STBU RY
’ h e t . Butl er s Cross , Ell esborough and Kimbles I c knield 00 Take the Upper Way, and in about 3 f w f Bac c omb e yards , ollo the rough road (l e t) up Hill (852 from which is a distant and con tinuo us view over the county to the N . Avoid a pathway through the wood call ed the w Scrub (l eft), and also a road (left) hich l eads of to Littl e Hampden , and at the corn er a beech w 1 w a ood (right , 3 by a post hich i ndic tes ’ a footpath to Butler s Cross , on e finds a most w of w agreeabl e vi e the Chilterns . Belo the w t ee ooded hills is Chequers Court ( ), i n a gap in w the hills , ith its park extending up the opposite slope ; to the right the bare grassy surface o f ’ w w o r Cymbeline s Mount , and belo it the to er d N W Ellesborough church . Beyon , to the . . , the pastures of the Vale of Ayl esbu ry extend to meet the Oxfordshire border . The road descends w — f among oods , and j oins a main road l e t to — ’ if Missenden right to Butl er s Cross , and this be f w m w ollo ed for a i . , a path ay (l eft) across the fields conducts one to Ellesborough church and ’ Cymbeline s M ount . Two- -a- f and hal miles S . E . from Wendover by ’ th e e the th e sid of road to S t L eonard s is H ale , th e e e f e birthplace of Sir H nry Colet , the fath r o D an e n of th e Col t . It is charmi gly nestled in a recess e hills . The hous which Dean Colet once owne d e u u v e e no longer xists , the present str ct re ha ing b n built about 174 8 ; near it is an old cottage and a u u e gro p of farm buildings make a pretty pict r . Westbur e e a 2 m or y (Brackl y , Great C ntr l , - % . , London and North Western) is an o ld- fashione d e h W e t e N . b of villag , n ar . orders the county R 2 57 B UCKINGHAM SHI R E
w e 1 Ful ell and W stbury , m . (a pleasant footpath through the meadows from the station to th e
. the e S . E corner of churchyard shortens distanc Th e by 5 church , almost in the grounds th e n of Ma or House, is good Dec . throughout .
w e . w . w Note , ho ev r , the Trans N to er arch ith Th e toothed ornament . pillars supporting the arch e e e the d ce wer r built wh n Dec . buil ing repla d that e of an older time . The anci nt Manor Hous e was e e ntir ly rebuilt in 190 3 . Werteott N W of is a large hamlet . . Waddesdon , with a mode rn church and a station on the
Quainton and Brill line . Weston Tur ville e d 2 c on (W n over , } m . ) is a side rable low th e of village in the land to N . e be e Wendov r . Without any claim to call d the e picturesque , cottag s , among gardens and not n orchards as a foreground , and the dista t f of n Chilterns beyond , orm a pleasing bit la d e e e scap . W ston takes its additional nam from a family wh o owned the manor in the reign o f King
John . The church (key at the rectory at some e th e end o f w distanc ) is at a small lane , hich th e e runs due S . near the W . end of villag . e e r I t is close to the Manor Hous , a mod n w brick building , and ith the fields and hills e th e r w b yond , and la ge elms hich overhang
w w . the lych gate , is ell orth a visit It has w 1 th w e a W . to er ( 5 century), ith high turr t , e c t wo a nav , aisle and hancel and porches , partly of old work . The church has undergone se veral change s as the styles of e e Th e s archit ctur altered . N . font i s mo t 2 58
B UCKI NGHAM SHI RE f or . t wo f Weston His riends , the Throckmortons , w f hom he play ully call ed M r and M rs Frog,
. now we lived at the Hall This is , as have said , no longer in existence , but in the grounds across the road one may, though it is changed , see something of the Grove
Be tw ee n the upright sh aft s of wh ose t all e lms % We ma sce n th e e s e at h is ask y di r thr h r t ,
w o f w as ell as The Wilderness , hose
We ll -ro ll e d w a lks With curvature o f sl o w and e asy sw ee p
- w have long ago become grass gro n . It is this connection with Cowper which has given Weston something of the fame which o f belongs to Stoke Poges in the S . the county . Between Weston and Ol ney the road passes over o f some rising ground, a rib the valley side, the vi ew from which Cowper and M ary Unwin in w w their al ks to Weston , before they ent to live there , must have many ti mes gazed upon , and whic h is described in these felicitous lines
H o w oft upon you e mi ne nce our pac e ’ H as slacke n d t o a ause and we ave o ne p , h b r Th e ru ffl in n sca ce consc ou s a e g wi d , r i th t it bl w, W e A m a on fe e n at the e e hil d ir ti , di g y ,
A nd s unsa e e u on the scene . till t d , dw lt p ’ Th e nce with wh at pl e asure h ave we just disce rn d Th e s an ou s o mov n and bes e di t t pl gh l w i g, id ’ ’ H is lab rin e am t a swe rv d n ot f om th e ac k g t , h t r tr , The sturd y sw ai n dimi n i sh e d to a boy H e e O use s o n n ou a e e a n r , l w wi di g thr gh l v l pl i ’ Of s ac ous me a s c a e s nk e o e r p i d with ttl pri l d , C o nd uct s th e e ye al ong h is si nuous c ourse T e e fas oo e in e an k De e . light d h r , t r t d th ir b , ’ ’ S an ne ve o verl ook d , our fav rite e ms t d , r , l , 2 60
BU CKINGHAM SHIR E
’ Th e summ arn d eho the ou a it g , b ld pr d l cove Th at crow ns it ye t not all its prid e se cure ’ The gran d re tre at from i njuri e s impress d B a ca e s wh o kn ves e face y rur l rv r , with i d Th e anne ls eav n an o scu e u e name p , l i g b r , r d , m ” I n c a ac e s uncou and s e a ss. h r t r th , p lt i
Th e e w imm diate foreground, and all the ood ’ land scen e are describ e d with Cowper s mar vellons fidelity ; and then he looks into the distanc e ’ O e r ose but far e on a s ac ous ma th , b y d ( p i p ’ O f an d va e inte r os d e e e n hill ll y p b tw ), ’ The O use v n the e -wate r d an , di idi g w ll l d , N ow e s in the sun and now e es glitt r , r tir , ” A s as fu e t m a e n to be se en b h l, y i p ti t .
far o r rs a Not distant, to the l eft S the venue
li mes , “ H ow a and h ow th e ace fu a c iry light gr l r h ,
we and k eeping still to the S . nearing the road , our w end rambl e at The Wilderness , ith its broad w two o n o n e o f w al k and monumental urns , hich ’ s is the epitaph to Sir John Throck morton pointer, beginning
H e re lie s one wh o neve r dre w B oo mse f e t man s e l d hi l , y y l w
on and the other the lines to the Spaniel ,
“ T ou o nce a u an d ou Fo b name h gh p ppy, th gh p y , o e m nou c a H ere mou lders one wh s bone s so e h o r l im.
was 1 6 The church probably built about 3 7 , when Po pe Gregory granted to the peopl e o f of Weston the right to build a place sepulture, 2 62 WESTON UN DE RWOOD— WHADDON
a c a e and a chapel . It has a nave , isles and h nc l w . we w ith circular pillars , N porch and a W . to r ith
w w e . w e e P . indo s , and a restor d W door ay . Th r are good windows of the same style in the nave and e e e of the 1 - e cl r story . The upp r lights 4th c ntury w c e me dia val and the . w E indo ontain som glass , in e 1 S . aisle is a brass of E lizab th Throckmorton( 57 f th e e n off e o which head has been brok , sinc it was r 18 eng aved in Lipscomb in 47 , and the i e ffi g es of the childr en . There is also a brass inscription running from below th e chan cel steps two e o f in lin es into the nave, round the verg a of of stone , in memory John Olney, Lord Weston wh o on to e and Olney, the inscription is said hav 1 0 to w died in 4 5, but this appears be rong, the o f 1 wh o e real date his death being 393 , and se ms , f f rom the inscription , to have been the ounder of the church
“ I s u e a va fu an ua Ca e l a rue ns ue , q p r it tiq p l , q , ” an c in le be iam condidit Ec c le siam H p , and this assertion would correspond with the date and tenor of the Papal Bull . Wexbam consists of some groups of scattered f . o . 2 . cottages N Slough The church , m i e from Slough , is a small flint build ng cov red w w low w w ith plaster, ith a to er and ooden bell t I w w Tw o . t . o c has a good Dec . E indo . small w w Norman indo s are in the nave . 1 Wbaddon 2 . o n ( Bletchl ey , 52 m ) is a village a high plateau (42 9 feet). Its modern aspect probably arises from the fact that the inhabitants w of the manor ere scattered , and only i n recent times have cottages grown u p near the 2 6 3 BUCKI NGHA M SH I RE
church and hall . The history o f the Manor o f Whaddon e mphasises the absentee phase o f me diazval and w e E nglish life , sho s that oftentim s there was littl e local c onnection between the lords o f the manors and the locality in which they lay . At the Domesday survey the manor G ifl ard w o f belonged to Walter , hil e the Bishop Bayeux and Hugh de Bole b e c also held a smaller share of the possessions of their Saxon pre de ce ssors. w Later, the manor t ice reverted to w was the the Cro n , and successively held by ’ d Albinis E o f - ff , arls Arundel , the Fitz G eo reys
- and the Fitz Johns . Then the De Burghs , E arls o f on o n o f Ulster, appeared the scen e the death - 12 1 Richard Fi tz John i n 97 , and then , in 3 55, to the estates descended Philippa de Burgh , e of of th e Count ss March . Several members f w w M arch amily follo ed until Ed ard , son of Cecil , of Countess March , succeeded to the thron e as w o n E d ard I V . Henry VI I . settl ed the manor Katherine of Aragon o n her marriage with Princ e was e Arthur . At her death it granted to H nry V ’ I I I . s w w third ife , Jane Seymour, hen she died 6 in 153 it agai n reverted to the Crown . During f o f o . the remainder the reign H enry VI I I , and
o f w VI . e i n the reigns E d ard , Mary and Elizab th the manor was held on l ease from the Crown by — several less distinguished families the Pigotts , ff T re lls the Cli ords , the y and the Bests , but in the reign of James I . Whaddon again became a of royal domain , and he granted it as part her w w e do er to his i fe, Queen Ann . At her death he presented it to George Villiers , Du ke of Buck a w ingh m , ith all the property in Whaddon 2 64
BUCKI NGHAM SHI R E strangely enough i t was asserted by its owners that the king had given it to be held as if it w e Year B ook er a royal forest ( , Rolls Series , 6 2 2 was o r vol . xxxi . pp. , Wheth er this so not the records of the trial i n which (in 12 94) w s the poin t a raised do not tell us . Th e church has a fin e position o n the edge of w w the high land hich here slopes to lo er ground , and a wide expanse of green and wooded country s W w th e N . stretche a ay to . The building is f . o s w . we n Dec in many its detail , ith a W to r , ave , w e chancel and aisle . It has a S . door ay in this styl w as w Th e w . . or as ell the E . indo . Trans Dec P . w w th e a e th e indo s in nave r also interesting . In interior , note the N . pillars of north and south aisles with capitals orname nted with striking foliage
e n s E . E e and grotesqu a imal . The . font is notic — abl e a round bowl supported on four pillars w f di vided by the tooth ornament . I n the all o w w s . . a the N aisl e , at the E end, hich formerly a N W chapel , is a piscina, and in the . . corn er is the ree monument to Arthur, Lord Grey de Wilton ( a Introduction , p . plain tomb under a canopy supported by pillars . He died at Whaddon in N 1 E. o f 593 . In the . corner the same chapel is a monument remarkabl e because of the union o f w w brass ork ith sculpture . Within a recess above th e tomb are the brass e ffigi e s o f Mr Serj eant 1 1 w o f two w Pigott ( 5 9) in his go n , and his ives and their children . Above the brasses is a canopy decorated with four - l e aved flowers sup
w . ported by sl ender pillars , much orn By the of S . door the nave is another remarkable brass to Margaret Missenden ( 16 12 ) and her son 266 WHADDON—WH ITCHU RCH — she in full Elizabethan costu me ; a littl e w a belo , and to the l eft , her son in the unple sant o f w form a skel eton . Above and belo the figures o f w are many lines of inscription , much hich is now e the . ill gible . In a carved frame on W w h ow e all is a brass , telling Amy E m rton in 16 1 3 gave a me morial clock to the church . To
o f r w old . S . c hurch is a o of very al mshouses To of i o f the N . the v llage is the park and house
Whaddon Hall , of modern erection . I n the park are the kennels of the Whaddon Chase Fox — hounds a pack which was started in 1842 by w n ow Squire Lo ndes . It is a subscription pack , hu nting the county between that of the Bicester W and Hunt on the . , the Grafton on the N the on Oakley the E . Wbitonurcb (Ayl esbury, 4} m . ) is a long village on the side of the low range which overlooks the western part of the Val e of Ayl esbury . It creeps round a bend in the hills . From it the meadows descend steeply into the outstretch
- ing pastures . Many picturesque half timbered cottages may be seen , some built in an unusual manner— the upper storey extending outwards on w w supported ood ork . The church dominates on e the village from a height its E . side . B hind — it stretch the famous grazing ground s Creslow e see w e pastur s ( Creslo ) . A lan runs from the the main road to the churchyard , and v w w a e ie up the approach , ith its old cott g s th e we and fine W . front of the to r , is ex tre me l w w y pleasing . The W . door ay , ith clus te red w w w shafts ith foliated capitals , and indo , w are sho ing in its outlines Dec . treatment , certainly 26 7 B UCKI NGHAM SHI R E th e e a of a fine Th e . e best f tures church niche and s dilia , D e . wa ofc hance l a e n e a e ar th c . r e e i th , on S ll otic bl , as 7 e tu f e and the the c n ry ont and cov r , stalls , initial s R . H . a of on them are prob bly those of R . Hobbs , last Abbot e of f Woburn , a b nefactor the church . The painting o 1 th e e . S t Margaret in N . aisl ( 5 century) is remarkabl R e mains of the once important Bole be c Castle (mount e and bailey) are visible in the garden of the Grang . [Vbite/eaf Cr otr is cut in the turf of a spur of th e e the h e e Chilterns , clos to amlet of Whit l af (Princes 1 m - m R isborough Station , § . ) al ost certainly a mis e of White cliffe sp lling . This curious object was long popularly conside red a e f a e nu e of a e be we e r lic o the A . S . g , as a mo m nt battl t n th e - the w now Anglo Sax ons and Danes . I t is , ho ever, c r not e f e e o f pretty lea , a littl rom the entir absenc any u an mention among early a thors , that it is more probably of th e c rossin of I cknie ldWa indication g the y at this spot , not d of 1 th ce ntur b the older than the mid le the 7 y, y road w e e e hich h r desc nds the escarpments of the Chilterns , e w and conn cts Hampden , Missenden and Wycombe ith the Thame and O xford . It has also been surmised that cro ssh adsome c onne c tionwith the de fe nce of th e Chilte rns
the th e CivilWar e x against R oyalist army in . But this planation has less to recomme nd it than that it was a mark e e o f e e e for trav llers of a plac consid rabl importanc , for we have to remember that it was only he re and the re th at in bygone age s it was possibl e to pass through the wild da w of th e e and ngerous oodlands Chilt rns , though it may ve ry well be objecte d to this e xplanation that the cross
a be f . w e c nnot seen rom the N or E . Possibly, ho ev r , w surmises of antiquarians are all rong , and this cross , w e e as we ll as the small cross at Bledlo , may have b n n e r See othing more than a privat landma k . ( on the 268
LOW E R WINCHENDON w e . e hole subject an int resting paper by late E . J Payn , R ecor d: o u é B t r . f , vol ' Widme r w 1 . O x (Marlo , 5m ) on left of main road to e — no w f ford . Remains of an ancient chap l a armhouse w 8 18 f was th e ith crypt , 3 ft . by eet . Here formerly r w e Manor House of Widmer . The lords ofthe Mano er th e of Knights Templars , then the Knights of S t John e J rusalem . This fact accounts for the chapel . Wil/en w 2 (Ne port Pagnell , m . ) is a small village in the rather uninteresting country which lies between w Th e Ne port Pagnell and Bletchley . church , unlike
. was nearly all the Buck s churches , is not Gothic I t 1 6 0 e e built in 6 and is said to have b en design d by Wren . Winebendon L w h W C R G . G . o er . , (Hadden am . and . , » m u e 31 . ; Waddesdon Manor , 4% m . )is a picturesq e villag w e on the S . margin ofthe ridge on hich Upper Winch n r c don stands . The cottages are nea ly all that hed , half e w - w Th e timb red and of a soft bro nish yello colour . church with W tower nave chancel is small th ou h , . , and , , g t e the w her are some good details , especially in W . door ay 1 th ( 5 century). Inside the communion rails are several 1 brasses ) a man in armour in good preservation ( c . 2 a e ffi e w f ( ) John B rton ( gy headl ss), and his i e , ll f h a l 1 8 N . wa o c nce w Margaret, 4 7 ; ( 3) on the a oman , w e —w in apparently in prayer , ith fold d hands ithout scription . Note the Manor F arm to W . of church . The Manor of Lower Winche ndon was after the Con ff Walte about 1 16 2 e . r quest the prop rty ofthe Gi ards , , gave it as part ofthe endowment ofthe not distant N otle y h was e u e Abbey . But t is grant never altogeth r acq iesc d in by some who claimed under adve rse grants a right to the manor or portions of it . But at the dis solution the Abbots we re unquestionably recognise d the of as possessors of the manor . The first point 269 BUCKI NGHAM SHI RE interest in the ownership of this land is the grant i n 1547 o f a considerabl e part of the “ o f property, late part of the possessions ” Notl ey Abbey, to that zealous servant of Henry
. t of f VI I I , John , Lord Russell , firs Earl Bed ord . w 1 8 Ho ever, in 55 , the Earl of Bedford sold his w lands i n Wi nchendon to William Good yn , a of t w - citizen London , hrough hose grand daughter,
Petronilla, they became, as her marriage portion , o f the property of Thomas Tyringham , some w th e hose descendants lie buried in church .
Winchendon Priory, as on e Manor House is n ow th e . of call ed , is to S the village, close to the old was re built in Thame . M ost of the house the 16 th was o f c entury, and it al tered at the beginning of f the n ext century . It contai ns a number amily old f portraits , and some interesting urnitu re . Winebendon U er , pp (Waddesdon Manor Station ,
2 » o f w 3 is a parish , the centre hich consists o f a fe w buildings on the high ridge which is al most Opposite to Waddesdon Manor . The of church , entered by an approach private road , and hidden by farm buildings from the passer -by o n 0 o n . the main road , stands ( 55 ft . ) the N edge o f t he ridge overlooking an out-stretching pasture W N . land to the . The massive piers of the nave o f w i ndicate the early origin the church , hilst the
. w E E. w w fin e N . door in S all , . east indo , the w w e Dec . indo s in the N . aisl , and the P . char acter of the towe r are inte re sting illustrations of th e e of e the D e c chang archit ctural style . In . d the the win ows in N . aisle attempt at floral imitation is noti c eabl e . Obs e rve also octagonal 1 - e u th e e e n font , 4th c nt ry pulpit and Dec . scr . 2 70
UPPE R WINC H ENDON—WING — In the chancel is the brass effigy o f a man full Stodel e length figure , Sir John y The Manor of Upper Winchendon belonged of Fride swide to the Priory St at Oxford . It
was . granted to Wolsey by Henry VI I I , and at w . of his fall to John Good yn , E sq , Wooburn , w w hose descendant , Jan e Good yn , carried the estate by marriage to Philip , fourth Lord
Wharton . His successor , the M arquis of Wharton , was e buri ed in Winch ndon church , but his son , was for the famous Duk e , indicted high treason
1 2 8 w . in 7 , and his estates ere confiscated Only the kitchen of the Manor House remains in the house to E . of church . Wi n a 2 e g (Leighton Buzz rd , % m . ) is a larg village o n the western front o f one o f those long w hills hich are formed by the oolitic outcrop , and are so charact e ristic o f the Val e o f Ayl es bury . On its southern side runs the road to Ayl esbury ; on its northern the road to Stewkl ey and Cublington . A c harming littl e bicycl e rid e or w al k is from Cheddington Station , through
M entmore , and to approach the vi llage through w w t he immense meado kno n as Wing Park . H ere and there may be seen an old and picturesqu e cottage , but Wing has nothing li ke the charm of many l ess i mportant villages in th e county . The almshouses near the Ayl es bury road , among smal l gardens , are noticeabl e .
The church is important , but it has not the same beauty as M ilton Keyn es or M aids M oreton . w w I t is a large church ith W . to er, aisl es and a h w curious c ancel , i th polygonal apse raised above o f the l evel the nave , and having beneath it a 2 7 1 BU CKI NGHAM SHI RE
w we crypt of rough flint , hich , as ll as the e e w aps , is usually consid red as Saxon ork . The three western arches of the nave are w massive but ugly , and are Saxon , hile the e E E h ow eastern arch s are . . There are ,
e . w w ever , s veral good early Dec indo s and
w w. a P . east indo The rood screen and e the screen in S . aisl (the top of the rood screen is modern) are interesting examples of 16 h - e early t century work . The old r ading
now . N is desk , at W end of . aisle, also x fine noticeable . E ternally the S . porch is a P specimen of . , though the influence of the v previous period is isible , not only in the th e pinnacles , but in the central niche and singular animals who crouch above the drip s e Th e w ton . to er is also P . Wing is rich in s monuments . On the N . ide of chancel f is a fine and repose ul monument to Sir W .
1 w fe . Dormer (died 57 5) and Dorothy, his i e s w Th y lie ide by side , but Sir William some hat
— - h igher than his wife two life sized figures in e the dress of the period , marked by a br adth of treatment which pre ve nts the realism from e w b ing disagreeable . Belo are their children e e among them some bab s at rest . Opposit to them is the monument to Sir Robert D ormer and h is w t e wo . Dame Elizab th , ife , kneeling figures 2 The D ormer Monument in N . aisle ( 155 ) is an e w I tc han the ex c llent piece of ork of design . Of monume ntal brasses the most int e re sti ng is that to Thomas Cotes in S . aisle , porter at A scott Hall , ’
16 8 . H e is e n 8 4 represented kn eli g , with a porter s f - e ta f under his feet , a high crown d hat and a 2 7 2
BUCKINGHAM SHI RE
e e f . o e at the W dg the hill , is mark dly P . in character . Th e w . w e th e e E indo is a fair exampl of styl . The n th - century wall arcading in th e chancel and e e th e a small vault d chamb r to north of the nave, w t w 1 e i h all paintings , probably of the 3th c ntury, are of much interest . Winrlow (London and North - We stern Railway) e e w w th e is a pl asant littl to n hich , like most of small w e o u to ns of Bucks , has r mained stationary in p p e th e E lation and size . Three str ets from N . . and e the W . converg on a small market square . On wn the e e right hand entering the to from E . is s n th e substantial Winslow Hall (built a fine e xample of domestic architecture . Note also e e some old thatch d cottages on the sam road . A w th e o f short narro lane from W . end the the we e w . church is , ho ver , the b st bit in to n To th - e e e e S . of the market plac is a larg mod rn e 0 Congr gational church . The church ( ) is to th e th e e - we N . of mark t place . It is a fine ll w w r n proportioned building ith W . to e , ave , e f we e two . aisles , and chanc l The lo ty to r arch s , 1 th are e ( 4 century) particularly notic able , and give e e a dignity to the whol edifice . Its gen ral character P w now w . is . , the indo s in N . and S aisles of e e the u this styl b ing good , heads having m llions e f e th e above cinqu oiled h ads . Note also traces o f e w th e paintings in N . aisl , and ithin altar e - ffi ie s of e N w e e e e . rails , . , the ll pr s rv d g Thos Fig , 1 8 w e e e c e Gent . ( 57 ) and his if and s v n hildr n , and o n th e e S . brass comm morating D orothy Barnard It i s said that the M e rcian kings had a palace w h was w e e at Winslo , and t at it hile in r sid nce 2 74 WI NSLOW—WOOBURN here that King Offa planned the foundation of s l n th e the mona tery at S t A ba s . At D omesday survey the lands here were in the posse ssion of that
th e . monastery, and remained so till dissolution Woburn Sand: ( L ondon and North -Western w s o e e th e Rail ay) is a mall m d rn villag , just on of ed e w be border B fordshir , to hich it may said t o e b long , as it is close to Woburn and Woburn e A bb y . Wolver ton ( L ondon and North - Western Rail way) consists of an old parish and small — market town and N e w Wolve rton a distinct w e th e ecclesiastical parish , in hich are group d workshops and many dwe lling - house s of th e artisans of the L ondon and N orth - Western Rail wa w i in 1 8 2 0 0 y, by h ch , January 93 , 9 , in
0 0 w e . January 19 3 , 443 men er employed This is e the most noticeable feature of the plac , and is e th e cau se of its growth . Aft r the Conquest n w n w e Ma no of Brittany , to hom ma y manors er h was the given , built a castle ere , and first of the
rt . Th e n Barons of Wolve on churches are moder , of 18 1 but in that H oly Trinity , rebuilt in 5, is — a marble monument a life - siz e d r e cumbe nt effigy to Sir Thomas L ongueville (died This church has a good deal of coloure d decoration e 18 w xecuted in 7 7 , hich may have interest for e cclesiologists . Woobur n and Wooburn Green (Station , Wooburn — e e w . e e e Gre n , Great West rn Rail ay) Th s plac s th e e form one long village , and lie in vall y of W e e w th e n of the y , and b lo them , on ba k s is w the Thames , Bourne E nd (Station), ith its s i i u boathou es and r verside v llas . At Woob rn 2 75 BUCKINGHAM SH I R E
Gre e n the house s are pre ttily clustere d round an e e oval green . The church has been r stor d out of e e r cognition of its former self ; the lat N . piers and arches alone tell of its early foundation — In the floor of chanc e l are brasses to ( r) Swa n 1 1 2 Thomas y in cope, 5 9 ; ( ) a man in 1 2 0 of shroud , 5 ; ( 3) A rthur, son Philip , L ord 16 1 e 1 Wharton , 4 ; and in floor of N . aisl to ( ) w 1 88 2 e A skowe John G od yn , 4 ; ( ) Christoph r w 1 10 and ife , 5 . A palace of the Bishops of L incoln once stood e w w th e e h re , hich after ards became prop rty of the . e Whartons Philip, L ord Wharton (di d u u son is b ried in the ch rch ; his , Thomas 16 was e ( 4 7 the Whig stat sman , and his son was th e e ccentric Duk e
A foo mo e of an a f mank n l with r wit th h l i d ,
T oo ash for ou for ac on too e ne . r th ght , ti r fi d
A t the clos e of his e xtravagant and extraordinary care er in 17 2 8 th e property was sold . In those days Wooburn Hous e was one of the fine st places n was w 1 0 and a in E gland , but it pulled do n in 7 5 , — u no on . small ho se w stands on its site the S . E side S W f e th e e . e . o of vall y Not to . church som old e e e 1 th 16 th c ottag s , part ofanoth r ancient hous , 5 and ’ w e th e D E nc ourts c enturies , hich onc belonged to y and e e u e e c opposit the church som pict r squ ottages , u w e 1 th - w with q aint ood n ( 7 century) figures , hich are said to have c ome from th e c hurch .
Woo/rtone Great . , (Fenny Stratford , 3 m ) is a e of e was e villag no importanc . The church r built
. e the in 1839 Notic N . font brought from ’ e f St Cuthbert s Church , B d ord . 276
BUCK I NGHAM SHI RE
Th e was 1 2 house is of red brick , and built in 8 0 after the 1 th e u the former house was burnt . In 4 c nt ry the e G re nville s manor cam to the , and has remained in that family to the present day .
The ch urch is a little to the S . of the house in th e s w and park , prettily shaded by tree , and ith an old u f u picturesq e arm near it . Architecturally the ch rch h as e e w e b n so much modernised that it is ithout valu . 1 - e e e It contains on S . a 4th c ntury chap l , private prop rty G re nville s— w the of the hich is separated from church , e — in W e nd w and has b en rebuilt N . . of hich on floor is e e w e ffi ie s w a black marbl monum nt , ith brass g , of E d ard w e e Grenville his ife , A lic , and th ir infant son . e nd e e e u e b At W . is a r cumb nt figur nder an la orate e canopy . On E . wall of the aisl is a monument to the last Duk e of Buckingham (di e d W u bton-on-tbe- Green Fe nn — o g ( yStratford , 3 This — is a small village and ch urch in this the re is a curious i th - e e u f 4 c ntury r cess with a r de e figy of a priest . Wra sbur y y , properly Wyrardisbury (Station , 3 m . e 2 rs i i e th e Stain s , } m . an un nterest ng villag , most southe rn i n the county Th e c hurch (0) among meadows W S . o f o ff w e ictur on . village a little the road , is ho ev r p e s ue l e w e w q y plac d , ith a charming vi across the Thames the e e to hills b yond . I t has been so much restor d as
e E. E n e . ow to hav littl interest The oblong . pillars e w the e are dividing N . aisl , ith small columns at angl s , e e noticeabl . Ther is an old plain font , a good sedilia and e e e e piscina, E . E . in charact r , and in S . aisl som Jacob an E E w a of carvings . Note also the . . flo ers on capit ls w tower arch ; in chancel by S . all the small brass to John Stonor in the dress of an E ton student 16 th e and knight in armour , early c ntury . The footpath past the church leads to the e F rry at Magna Charta Island . To the S . on 2 78 W RAY SBU RY— HIGH W YCO M BE
Anke rw ke t h e banks o f the Thames is y House , 18 0 o n e reb uilt in 5, the site Of a B enedictin Priory founded in the r e ign o f Henry I I . by Sir
Gilbert de M ontfitc h e t . M agna Charta Island , was 12 1 o n which the Great Charter signed i n 5,
th e 2 . f is nearly due S . of church ( 3 m rom Staines
Bridge by river). In the centre is the flat stone , . on wh rch ac c ordrn called Charter Stone , , g to
n Kin s e th e e . traditio , g John ign d famous docum nt o r » G . C . 86 mbe H i f. Wy co , g ( Chipping e th e e w in u 2 Wycomb , is larg st to n the co nty ( 4, 557 a w inh abit nts , 191 It has al ays been an import and was ant town , a Parliamentary borough until 86 2 6 th e th e Re form A ct of 1 7 ; in 16 , Waller,
e was . po t, one of its members Its pre se nt prospe rity aris e s primarily from th e f “ ” u e o . manufact r chairs Originally only Windsor, e n of e e or kitch , chairs b ch from the adjoining now woods were made , but chairs of all kinds e A are are manufactur d . large number of hands e e m loye d in the trad . p and down the valley from the old part o f w of w - e the to n , hich the mark et place is the c entr , most unattractive small houses and factories e o ld w xtend . The part , ho ever, is qui et and e w inter sting, containing the To n Hall and the Littl e M arket House som e old e houses in White Hart Street , and others in clos of proximity . Observe also the Priory , N . church , 16 - a th century house , and the al mshouses o n 8 of n . side Lo don road Opposite Grammar Sc h ooh
o n . o f The church , N side High Street , and 0 h rdde n e from i t by adj oining houses , is the larg st 27 9 BUCKI NGHAM SHI RE
2 0 2 . 1 8 ft . hi h church in the county ( ft long, 4 g in nave). Externally i t is far from interesting , but n s the interior is imposi g . A N . church wa buil t of 1 1th Swartlin th e at the end the century by g, Thane Of this there are no remains exc ept a piece o f a capital now placed i n a niche in o f w o f North aisl e , and a piece rough alling buil t w w native boulder ston e , hich is in W . all of N .
. E. E. was aisle The second , a late church, erected 1 12 i n the 3 th c en tury , and compl eted in 7 5. Of this there remain the striking arch and jambs of w now o n e o f . w w the W indo , the to er arches , the pillars and arch dividing N . aisle of nave f w w of rom the chancel aisl e, and the indo s the e w 8 aisl , hich have been restored . B ut the . door way and porch are certainly the most attractive o f E E and interesting remains the . . church , f though the S . ront in its original state had three E w w —it was 18 E. . indo s restored in 93 i n harmony was with alterations made long after it first built . Early i n the 16th century the tower was moved f o . from the centre the building to the W end . Note the curious j uxtaposition of th e tower
f w w . arch and the ormer W . indo , the P pillars , f of piers and windows of chancel . The roo s nave w are and aisl es and the to er of this period . The s dde din 18th battlement wa a the century . Note of the restored P . screen in S . aisl e, the corbels the f of roo , the monu ment to the first E arl Shelburne , in N . chancel aisl e . H e purchased the Wycombe A bbey estate in 170 0 ; it was purchased by the The se now first Baron Carrington in 1 794. hou ( Wycombe Abbey school for girls) is s e e n in pleasant w grounds on the S . side of the to n . 2 80
WEST WYC O M BE
o f On the N . side the London road once stood ’ f 1 l th . St . John s Hospital , ounded i n the century
Of . e are this some N piers , capitals and arch s carefully preserved in the garden of the Grammar Sch ooL A remnant of old times survi ves in a meadow of 0 w 3 acres , called the Rye , in hich every inhabitant of the town has a right o f common for W o S. . tw cows and a heifer . On the ridge to the ’ o f w w the to n is Earl Carrington s house , Da es
Hill .
mbe s C . and W co We t G . y , (station , is a quaint old world village on th e L ondon and 2 O xford road , m . from High Wycombe . I t consists of one stree t many of th e cottages have ove rhanging
e Th e - n re the stor ys . most ancient looki g structu is church loft (lat e 15th century) on the right w of w hand side going est . One the upright ooden beams has a cross cut into it , and another by the wide gateway l eading to Church Lane has the ff of iron handcu s the village stocks nail ed to it . The church (60 0 feet) stands on th e summit o f a hill wi thin an an cient entrenchment on the o f w o f site a N . church (the lo er part the tower e s is medi val). It wa rebuil t by Sir Francis — — Dashwood afterwards Lord l e Despenser ih 1 see f o f 793 (as to him , M edmenham), and is ull
. w eccentric details Note , ho ever , a good carved f w 16 8 ont stand , a brass to R . East and his ife ( 3 ) and some wood - carving in the chancel by on Gibbons . Externally the huge ball the top of w the to er is most conspicuous . At the E . w - end is a mausol eum , in hich the half mad peer was w of e buri ed , and here the heart his kindr d “E S 2 8 1 BUCKI NGHAM SHI RE
' S was pirit , Paul Whitehead , the dramatist , pl ac ed . W W e st c o mb e o n t h e 8 . o f . y Park li es side the village . The house and grounds are not open to the public , but may be seen by special per e n mission . Desborough Castl e , an anci ent tre nc hme nt on , is clearly visibl e the high land
b e twe e n H i h and . to left . g West Wycombe
2 82
AP PENDI X
BR ASSES
E ies onl not inscr i tions or ( oa ts- o - a r ms [ fi g y , p f ]
e w e e A m rsham , A st ood , B achampton , B acons fie ld e w e c n a f , Bl dlo , Bl t hley , Bur ham , Ch l ont St e f n e e e e e e e Gil s , Chal o t S t P t r , Ch arsl y , Ch ni s , Ch s c e M e f ham Bois , Chi hel y , Claydon ( iddl ), Cli ton e e c e e a e u R yn s , Dat h t , D nham , Dinton , Dr yton B a w u n e u champ , Drayton Parslo , D nto , E dl sboro gh , e u Emb e rton Eto n H adde nham H alton Ell sboro gh , , , , , e a e e a Hambl don , H mpd n ( Great ) , Hanslop , H rd e e e d e r e w e m ad , H av rsham , H g l y , Hor ood (Gr at), c e e e n n e Hit ham , Hugh nd n , Iv r , Ivi ghoe , L a gl y, e e t e re e L ckhampst ad , Lillings on Day ll , L illingston e e a e n re n L ov ll , L inford ( Gr t), L inslad , L o g C ndo , u L ud arshall M w e L o ghton , g , arlo ( L ittl ), North a w e ne e n e M rston , Mars orth , Milton K y s , Miss d n e e e u e e w (Great), Miss nd n (L ittl ), Mo lso , N nton e e w e aw e L ongvill , N port Pagn ll , North Cr l y, e n e u P n , Quainton , Radnag , Risboro gh (Monks ), u e e u e Sa nd rton , Shalston , Slapton , So lbury , Stok e e we w u e w Pog s , Ston , Sto , S anbo rn , Taplo , u n e w c u we Thornboro gh , Thornto , Ting i k , T r ston , w f m a n T y ord , Tyringha , Upton , W ddesdo e e r e u e e e r W ndov , W ston T rvill , W ston Und w n urc h e ood, Whaddo , Whitch h , Winc ndon 2 83 APPENDIX
e e w (Neth r and Upp r), Wing , Winslo , Wooburn, W u e Worminghall , otton , Wraysb ry, Wycomb e (W st).
e e a e 88 0 1 1 1 Palimps st Brass s , p g s 3 7 , , 9 , 5, 53 , i 1 2 0 2 . e n e . 55, 4 , 49 Includ d abov
B
EE S Roo n S C R N .
e 10 1 12 1 8 16 8 188 Pag s 3 5, , 4 , 5 , , ,
20 2 1 1 2 2 2 2 2 0 2 2 2 80 . 5, , 3 , 49, 59, 7 , 7 ,
2 84
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E ma n f u H i e at re s o f the se b o oks are ( 1 ) a h a ndy and c a m n fo m 2 nume rous us a ons fr h r i g r . ( ) ill tr ti om o o a and b e - kno n a r oo d l ans ph t gr phs y w ll w tists, (3 ) g p and ma s an ade ua e b ut c o m ac e s n a f p , (4) q t p t pr e t ti o n o e ve n a is n e e s n in th e na u a fe a ures rythi g th t i t r ti g t r l t , s o a c ae o o and a c e c u e o f th e o n o r hi t ry , r h l gy, r hit t r t w d c e a e i stri t tr t d. I n o se vo ume c e a o f co un e s e e is st th l s whi h tr t ti , th r fir a e ne a de sc o n o f th e c oun r — its ua on g r l ri pti t y sit ti , s c a fe a u e fl o a a nd fauna c ma e nh ab an phy i l t r s . r , li t . i it ts , ndu e s o and a ch ae o o T e n fo o s n i stri s , hi t ry r l gy. h ll w a acc ount o f th e c hi e f to wns and pl ace s o f i nterest in b e c a de alph a ti l o r r. Th e b oo ks are no t guide s in th e ordi nary s e ns e o f th e o d T e do not ve th e u ua ou f r x w r . h y gi s l r t e s o e pe di nf m n o n o a o ab o u o e s e tc . b ut e c o n a n ti s , i r ti t h t l , , th y t i i nformati o n whic h may b e suffi c ie nt fo r th e o rdi nary ou s o f e a as e s and e fo m no t on ac c al t ri t lit r ry t t , th y r ly pr ti h andb ooks b ut de fu f b o oks , light l gi t . ll B A . A M L C amb ridge and its C o eges . y H I TO N W TH O ON B A . 2 us ra mun M PS . ons E , ith 3 Ill t ti by d d H Tl a d E d tion e w d a M a . r i R N , an p , evised.
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