B UCKINGHAM SH I RE TH E L I TTL E G U I D E S

C N M B R I D G F AND ITS MONMOUTHSHIR E C OLLEGES NORFOL K O % FO R D AND ITS COLLEGES ’ 5T PAUL S CATHEDRAL NORTH UM BERLAND WESTMINSTER A BBEY NOTTINGHAMSHIRE T H E TEMPLE O % FORDSHIRE R P T H E ENGLISH LAKE S SH O SHIRE T H E MALVERN COUNTRY SOMERSET ' ' STA FF R DS I I I R E S H A K E S I EA R B S COUNTRY O SUFFO B HI LK ERKS RE SU RREY B SUSSE % CAM RIDGESHIRE ' T H E E A ST RIDING O F THE CHANNEL IS L ANDS YORKSHIRE CHESHIRE THE NORTH RIDING OF CORNWALL YORKSHIRE DERBYSHIRE THE WEST RIDING OF DEVON YORKSHIRE DORSET WARWI CKSHIR E DURHAM ESSE % GLOUC ESTERSHIRE NORTH WALES HAMPSHIRE SOUTH WALES HERTFORDSHIRE KERRY THE ISI E OF WIGHT BRITTANY LEICESTERSHIRE AND NORMANDY RUTLAND LONDON ROME M IDDLESE % SICILY

’ F CO L L I G F E B E ON CHAP L , FROM FOOT RIDGE

BUCKINGHAMSHI

By E s R OSCOE

’ I /[wtmfea éy F D BEDFO RD

Th e slopin g l an d re ce d es i nto th e c louds D isplay ing on its var i e d sid e th e gra ce Of e e -row e au es num e r e ss s ua re o e r h dg b ti b l , q t w , Tall s re from c th e soun o f c e e rfu be lls p i , whi h d h l ’ us un u a e s u o n th e list n in ea r J t d l t p g y ,

Grove s e a s and smo n v a e s re mo e . , h th , ki g ill g , t

T a sk k I . C h e T B . OWPER , ,

L O N D O N

M ETH U EN O . L TD 85 C .

nd 3 6 Essex St . Stra

Seco E i io R e v ise nd d t n, d

PR E FAT O R Y N O T E

SI NC E th e first edition o f this Littl e Guide was of published , the fac e Buckinghamshire has

of n ew w been altered by the construction rail ays . These have produced considerable ch anges in

of W t e the south the County, here populou s side ntial districts have been created in sparsely populated localities . The publication of the two R epor ts of tbe

R o al C ommission on Ancient M onuments 1 12 y , in 9

1 1 o f and 9 3 , has placed an immense mass authori tative details at the servi ce of those wh o are interested i n the antiquities of l shire . Of these va uabl e volumes adequate use h as been made i n preparing this edition . S R E . . .

M ay 1914

C O NT E NT S PAGE I NTRODUCTION

I S % B . ITUATION E TENT, AND OUN

I I F S Y . GENERA L EATURES , CENER , A ND C LI M ATE

GEOLO G Y FLORA AN D FAUNA

PO PULATION A ND I NDUSTRI ES C O M M UNICATIONS

ANTI Q UITI ES

ARC H ITECTU RE

HISTO RY

H ISTORICA L C H ARACTERS

DESCRI PTION O F PLACES I N B U C KING H A M

H G PH B Y - 2 8 2 S I RE AR RA N E D AL A ETICA L L , 59

PP % — B A n S 2 8 - 2 8 A ENDI R SSES, Roo C REENS 3 4

BI B LIOG RA PH Y 2 8 5- 2 86

INDE % O P PERSONS 2 87 - 2 89

L I ST O F I LL U ST RAT I O N S M APS AN D PLA N S PAGE R AI LW AYS OP BUCK I NGH AMS HI RE CHAPEL A MERSHAM

Fr om Pbo b M essr s . T o a to ra /I H PV. a unt C . ( g p y , Ox r d fo . ) B EACONSFIEL D CHURCH ° r om o s r W a Pb to ra lz b M e s s H . Ta unt 59 Co. ( F g p y . ,

Oxf ord. ) R D N C S T H D RW B A E HAM CH UR H , OU OO AY

Pbot ra b b M ssrs H W Taun m a o e . . t o r o C . ( F g p y , r Oxfo d. )

TH E O L D R N C K N M BULL I G, BU I GHA PLA N OF BURNHAM B EECH ES BURN HAM B EECH ES M T N’ TT NT ST G IL O S CO AGE , CHALFO ILES TH E S UND I D N H U AL , CLAY O O SE CLI FTON R EY s CHURCH ; TH E R EY N ES CHAPEL ‘ ’ Pb o ra lz b M es rs V l ntine ons rom a ot s . a e 59 S ( F g p y j ,

L td Dundee . . , DINTON H ALL AND CHURCH PLAN o r ETON COLLEGE ’ KEA T s L N ET N A E , O H AMPDEN CHURCH TT H A R L EY POR D CO AGES , ’ M r . V r om a Pboto ra lz b ess s H I . Tau Co ( F g p y nt . , Ox ord f . )

H U N D EN CH N T B OF E O F GHE CHUR , A D OM ARL BEACONSFI ELD

Fr om Pbot ra ls b M essrs Va l nt n ons a o . e z e S ( g p y 7 ,

L td Du ee. . nd )

I A L I ST OF I LLU ST R AT I O N S

TH E M PET I N G H U D O SE , JOR ANS

Fr om a Pboto r a /z b M essr s H IV T u t . a n Co. ( g p y . , O rd xfo . ) ’ SH r L L PY s H S G T M A R L O w OU E , REA W R R M A N D C H U R C H O N CO PE OLLER ILL , L EY TH E WI N W A NT N OOD LMSHOUSES , Q UAI O STEW KLEY CH U RCH STOK E POGES CHURCH STO W E H OUSE

om P M l Fr a /xoto ra /z b essrs . Va ent ine Cg Sons ( g p y 7 ,

L td. Dundee , . ) WA DDESDON M ANOR ’ r m a P/zoto r b M r V l F o a b ess s . a entine 59 Sons ( g p y 7 , L Dun e td d e . . , ) H ST W D V R IGH REET , EN O E ’ H W U N D E W D COWPER S OUSE, ESTON R OO WH I T PL EA F CROSS ’ m a Pb ot o ra b b M essr s H W T unt r o . a 69 Co ( F g p y . , Ox ord f . ) U PPER WI NCHEN DON CHURCH WYCOM B E A B B EY ’ Fr anz a Pbot o ra b b M essrs . Valentine 59 Sons ( g p y 7 ,

L td Dundee . . , ) WEST WYCOM B E CHURCH ’ M r W un From a Pb oto ra /z b ess s H . . Ta t 59 Co. ( g p y , Ox ord f . )

M A P O F B U C KI N G H A M SH I R F

— M s t o a n e N ata M e ssrs ETH U E N wi h ck owl e dg th e ir n ne ss to the a e Sir E mun Ve ne M e ss s Va e n ne i d e bte d l t d d r y, r l ti So ns L t d Fre e man s Saun e s Pa ne P o , . , , Hill d r , y , igg tt , d Wa fo So n f o m ose o s T aun C o . an o a t , l rd , r wh ph t gr ph a e e n ma e Th e ans ave e e n a n th e d rawi ng s h ve b d . pl h b dr w B B e r a o f E on f om the an in t h e E n b M r . C . ou o y lt , th t t r pl t n b s on o f the u s e s C ale d ar y pe rmi si p bli h r .

I NT RODU CT I O N

S % A N D B I . ITUATION , E TENT, OUNDA RIES

U CKIN G H AM SH I R E on e Of th e , southern of e w midland counti es , lying b t een ° ’ ° ' ° ' 1 2 2 10 0 2 8 5 5 and 5 north latitude , and and ° ' 1 12 w on . est longitude, is bounded the N by

Northamptonshire, W . by , S . by f e . e Berkshir , and E by M iddles x , Hert ordshire f e and Bed ordshire . Its extrem northern and L Wr ardisb ur southern poi nts are avendon and y y . l ts e e gr atest l ength is 53 miles , greatest br adth 2 e 7 mil es its area is acr s , or nearly 7 49 ua e e of e e 1 1 2 we e sq r mil s ; th s , in 9 , r e we z e e 2 80 perman nt grass and arabl , 5 we re mountain and h e ath land and 2 0 51 were wa e I t be a e u k t r . should dd d that B c ingham shire is th e thirty - third in size of the English u i e co nt s , The county derives its name from the town of e differ Buc kingham . Authoriti s as to its ety I molo o gy. I n p pular Opinion i t has been con side re d f e S to have been derived rom Buck n (A . . ’ m en— e a Ca d Buck n S. Bucc B uc ce e n be e c ee s Sir ( ), h tr ; ' — Hen S elrnan Bu ce en e . ucks or e e L sons in g p , g . , b d r ; y , M agma Britan n i a state s th at bo c h re fe rs t o its be ing b o c h — l an d in con tradisti nc ti on to folk l an d ; B rowne Will i s Rue Ce vus e a uck or a an d fo e s Sbea/zan is of r , g . , b h rt r t ; O n on a Buck n am e ve s its n ame f om its A S pi i th t i gh d ri r . . o e o s the B u n ck s or R o ck n s . pr pri t r , i g i g A B U CKI N G H A M S H I RE

Boc c e e n = b e e c h w Bucca, ) trees , an idea hich probably arose from the beech forests which extended southwards from the summit Of the e e a e w Chilt rns , but it is mor prob bl that i t o es to - its name directly an Anglo Saxon thane , one w e e w Buck or Bock , hose heirs and d p ndants ould Boc kin s e in e A S be the g (the syllabl g b ing . . x e o f patronymic sufii ). Henc the name their - o f t h e f o f settl ement Bucki ng ham , home amily o r Bock Buck .

A F A S Y AN D C M AT I I . GENER L E TURES, CENER LI E

If a s e cond Arthur Young we re beginning a o f ck h e w f survey Bu inghamshire , ould start rom the northern apex which incl udes the valley o f w w lo w the Ouse ith its sluggish aters and large , w o n e lying meado s , and has the upp r ground a mixed agricultural district akin to that Of f e e Bed ordshir , chiefly arabl , large fields mark ed fi - f e d by rst rate arming . As he proc ede south wards he would find that o n e branch O f this f river, call ed the Ousel , comes rom the t h e e e east passing along edg Of Bedfordshir , whil e t h e main Ouse flows from th e west - from B uckingham and th e bord e rs o f North am tonshire w e t wo p . Bet een th se streams the mai n portion o f the northern part Of th e e o f county is extend d , a space broken o f low w C country , heights , oods , opses , and w some hat small enclosures , alternately grass and e a f arabl e , Of pl easant villag s and sm ll armsteads -when h e -touches th e rail way from Bl etchl ey GE N E RAL FEAT U R E S

wi — for to he ll perceive as , instanc e , from th e churchyard of extending before of f him a tract ertil e pasture land , broken by eminences such as the distant hill o f Bril l and of e of the heights , the c entre and typ which are the i mm e morial grazing grounds Of w w Creslo , and hi ch , commonly called the Val e o f e Ayl esbury, xtends to the uprising range Of the

e wh o n . Chil t rns , ich break the horizon the south e 1 This is a spac e n arly 5 mil es in breadth , in a - e o f a of bee lin gr ssy hill and pasture, picturesque villag e s with heavily thatched and white - wall ed on e o f cottages clustered emin nces , churches Of no e littl architectural interest , and anci ent manor s f house . I n its ertility and spaciousn ess it is mark e dly in contrast to the land between the summits of the Chilterns and the borders Of if Middlesex and the valley Of the Thames , and we eliminate for a moment the farmhouses whi ch are e e r w scatt r d here and the e in the meado s , and the hedges which were planted at the beginning of 18 w the th c entury , hen the enclosure of ma Open fields becam e common , and ny acres we sh all Of arable land became pastures , have a cl ear idea Of the centre Of me dimval Buckingham shire with the village community grouped around th e C w hurch and the manor hous e, n ear hich ’ w desme snes w o t ere the lord s , hil e the cattl e th e village were sent to graze in the marshy and w of w w in undrained lo lands , most hich ere c in a cessibl e except the height Of summer . The most stri king natural feature is form e d by the w ff Chiltern Hills , hich have a ected both the o f scenery and the character the county . Care B U CKI N G HAM S H I R E ful Observers hav e also noted a mark ed differe nc e between th e i nhabitants O f these hills and Of the e Open country, the former b ing smaller , darker ff and more Celtic in appearance . But this di er ence with i mprov e d communications is passing w a ay . North Bucks has been a rich grazing and pas f c toral county rom an early age . South Bu ks has flin t a poor , y and chal ky soil , resul ting in light o f th e crops grain , and in pastures only in vall e ys o r i n the wat e rl e ss bottoms which are e o f charact ristic the Chil tern Hills . t h e v o f e For lo er the picturesqu , the secluded th e - vall eys and bottoms , flint built and thatched cottag e s around the small grey churc h are very attracti ve , but the northern portion Of the w w w undula county, ith its ide vie s , its pl easan t - w e tions , and its churc h cro n d hills , has many e charms . Buckinghamshir can scarcely be said f to possess a river . The Ouse rising in Ox ord e t h e shi re , pass s a mere brook into county n ear a e Bra fie ld e Br ckl y, and l eaves i t at y n ar Olney . With B e rkshire th e county Shar e s in the Tham e s f w o f rom Wraysbury to ithin sight Henl ey, a o f w th e w tributary hich , Thame , has its head aters in the brooks which are seen among the pastures to w e e the est Of Ayl sbury, and l eav s the county t h e f e o at littl e Ox ordshir town f Thame . e The Chess , rising at C hesham , and ntering e S e Herts is only a pr tty trout tr am , as is the Wye Ot e e e e H Wycomb str am . With the xc ption of igh

' Wyc ombe and the re are no to wns of im e e e c c e c u but f portanc , no gr at l siasti al b ilding , rom the meadows of Olne y to t he playing fi e lds of Eton B E E CH WO ODS

o f the county is full charming landscapes , and Of int e r e sting archit e ctural and arch ae ological features . The Chiltern district abounds in w for w of attractive alks , along the hol e line the b f e w w ills , rom Edl sborough to Bledlo , are ide w w e spreading vie s . No h re i n England are more extensiv e beech woods than on th e southern slopes . The gr e e n and stat e ly trunks rising from a carpet Of v o n e w fall en lea es , at season red , at another bro n , e are un e quall e d in th e ir magnific e nc . Some tim e s in wint e r o r spring th e wayfarer will find his path barred by t h e long spare tr e e s laid lo w on th e dry l eaves ; around th e ir heads are th e e n o w cl ean thin branch s , separated by the axe Of th e w e . oodman , but still ncircling the trunk In spring- time on e may look down o n acres Of a w w e peculiarly light delicate green , hich , h n June

e e e O f . has come , tak a shining sob rn ss colour Wi th the last weeks o f S e ptember gorgeous spaces of yellow and red and bronz e begin to th e c e break ontinuity Of colour, and the hu s d e e pen till a ric h brown overspreads the w th e t h e e hollo s and hillsides , until l aves fall f f under the influenc e o the early rost . These b e ech forests affe cted at o n e time t h e of social character the county . They became — the hiding -plac e of bands Of lawl ess men a — rural Alsatia which was a danger to the surround c was w w i ing distri ts . It this la l essness h ch caused the appointment o f a functionary known — as the Steward Of the Chiltern Hundreds O f e — Stok , Desborough , and Burnham that is , Of the w district lying bet een the Chil terns , the Thames of f valley, and the borders Hert ordshire . The S B U CKI N G HA M S H I R E

Office would probably by this ti me be forgotten h ad it no t served by reason Of a Parliamentary fiction to enabl e t h e retirem e nt o f m e mbers Of the House Of Commons . I t is regarded as an f o f w O fic e profit under the Cro n , the acceptance Of which makes a person ineligible any longer e to sit in t h e House without a n e w el ction . far e This curious use , so as r gards the particular ffi e fi 1 0 o ce , se ms to have been rst practised in 74 , and sinc e that date the Stewardshi p O f the Chiltern Hundreds has become part Of th e e e e r cognis d Parliamentary practic . The climate Of the county is affected by the — Chiltern Hills that Of North Bucks is akin to the climate Of the M idlands south Of the range it is w 18 0 18 armer and dryer . From 7 to 99 the average rain fall at Wi nslow (North Bucks) was inch e s ; at Slough (South Bucks)

h e . i nc s B uckinghamshire, both north and south , may be considered a dry county, sinc e it compares not w t u nfavourably i h Cambridgeshire, the driest w nf Of Of English counties , ith an average rai all 2 2 w about 5 inches , and favourably ith a county e by e th e w w such as Suss x , no m ans ettest , ith a f Of 1 rain all 3 inches .

I I G Y I . GEOLO

Th e g e ology o f Buckinghamshire is the main caus e Of the C haract e ristic features both Of the landscap e and t h e agriculture Of the county . 1 f M . B A u e S a an D e c o o H . y br y tr h , ir t r a ur ve G e o l ogi c l S y . 6

BUCK INGHAM SHI RE

e w u f south are high r and n e er . S ch , in act , is the e f case , and in trav lling rom the north to the south o f the county we shall pass over in succ e ssion the outcrops o f various members o f the Oolitic seri es w hich comprise the hills of Brill and Ashendon , i ncluding th e gr e at mass o f the Oxford and Ki mmeridge Clays ; we shall then surmount th e o f n escarpment the chalk , and by descendi g the long dip - slope s to the south of it gain th e are a t h e e w o f occupied by n est strata the county, o f we o f th e namely, some the Lo r Tertiary beds

London area . Th e oldest rock e xposed in the county comes to th e surfac e in the vall e ys o f the Ouse and e e the Tov , and is recognised as the U pp r Lias . This is ove rlain by some sands and clays known w w as the Lo er Estuarin e Series , hich are only a fe w e f f et thick , though their equivalents orm a prominent fe atur e in the Cott e swold Hills . The w e e Great Oolite Series , hich com s n ext , includ s e o f y of an upp r subdivision cla , a middle mass the e e e e w limeston alr ady r f rred to, and a lo er sub o f e e di vision estuarin character . The limeston w e e underlies a id region along the Ous , by and around Stowe and Biddl e s don and , though much quarried it is inferior to t h e we ll - known stone got from the same bed at Bath . f The Cornbrash , a rubbly and highly ossili f e c o f erous lim stone , though thin hanges least all the Oolitic strata in th e long outcrop across t h e o f England . I t runs along south side the e w Ouse Valley, and extends by N port Pagn ell , e u w and n ar B ckingham , ith several O O GEOLOGY pa tch e s severed by denudation from t h e mai n out cro p. f w e The Ox ord Clay, hich comes n xt, is l e 0 0 soft . a estimated to be 4 feet thick , and is a p w e fl blue clay, yielding a soil hich is devoted chi y f o f t o to pasture . I t orms a tract some six ten w of w are mil es in idth , in the middl e hich e w situat d Bletchl ey and Winslo . The Corallian rocks which should follow i t are repr e s e nted i n fe w of Buckinghamshire by a feet clay only, but 10 0 the Ki mmeridge Clay, n ext in order , is abou t V A e sb u fe . th e of l r et thick It crops under ale y y, under parts of which ther e must th e refor e be 0 0 6 0 0 f f between 5 and eet o clay . w w - w The Portland B eds , in hich the ell kno n e we Portland Ston occurs , are quarri ed at Hart ll A w and . clay bet een the ston e and the Kimmeridge Clay was used by the Romans now w w for for pottery, and is orked at Hart ell m . w re aking bri cks Purbec k strata, ith their mar kabl e record of the alternation o f mari ne and e e stuarine conditions , are recognis d at , w Brill , Cuddington , Ston e , Hart ell and other n places , but both they and the Portla d Beds occur in patches only . We pass no w from the Jurassic system of strata on to what is known as the Cretac e ous Syst e m from the fact of its containing the Chal k (rreta) we e as its pri ncipal member . The lo st m mber, o r e the W alden , is missing i n Buckinghamshire , and the Purbecks are succeeded by the Lo wer w two o r Greensand, hich forms an outcrop three e w e e and mil s i n idth , xt ndi ng from Puttenham To we rse e to y and Ilm r . It con 9 BUCKI NGHAM SHI RE tains phosphatic nodules which we r e work e d at ’ Brickhill and beds o f full e r s earth which were being dug at H e ath so long ago as 1 2 7 3 . of th e w we At the top Lo er Greensand , as ll as at its bottom , there is a gap in the geological Th e w th e record . strata u pon hich Greensand was deposited had been el evated and denuded during the i nterval of time r e presented by the e e and missing W alden B ds, it thus happens that the Gr e e nsand r e sts upon various members o f th e e w e Oolitic seri s , not al ays upon the upp rmost . Betwe en the Gr e ensand and th e Gaul t there is a f a h ow similar uncon ormity, even more m rked e ver, so that not only the Greensand but several o f the Upper Oolitic strata are missi ng below the o f Gaul t i n parts the county . The Gault is a ff u w of 2 0 0 sti bl e clay up ards feet thick . It contains phosphatic nodul es which have been w e ork d in several places , and i n its u pper part e passes into a greenish sand , the Upper Gre nsand f o the southern counties . we f of th e Here reach the oot Chiltern Hills , w o s -w s o f e hich in Co mbe Hill , out h e t Wendov r, form th e highest ground i n Buckinghamshir e 8 2 f ( 5 eet). The chal k , though at first sight e v we homog neous , is readily di isible i nto a lo r of o f division marl , a middl e division massive w fe w H w chalk ith a ints , and ith a hard nodular w t h e bas e kno n as M el bourn Rock , and an upper w w division , in hich flints abound, and hich has a w e band kno n as the Chal k Rock at its bas . Each

division , moreover, is characterised by certain w w fossils , hich experienc e has sho n to be a more t o GEOLOGY

reliabl e guide than the presence o f Hints or even th e character of the rock . The total thickness 80 0 w e is about feet, of hich half is assignabl to th e Th e th e Upper Chal k . dip being to south east th e chal k e scarpment presents a steep fac e - we w to the north st , but descends south ards i n a long slope int e rsected by numerous wi nding e o n e e w valleys , and load d the int rv ning ridges ith r e w superficial g av ls . I n this belt , i th its rich growth o f beech tre e s and t h e softly -flo wing con o f e f e o f tours its dry chal k vall ys , is ound som the e of e best sc nery the Hom Counties . Th e Tertiary Beds occupy th e south e rn angl e o f i n e s the county, bu t occur also num rou patches o n w the chal k slope, here they happen to have c e of es aped denudation . Th y consist generally brightly- tinted sands and clay i n the lower part (R e ading Beds) an d o f a stiff brown clay (London e t w Clay) in the upp r par . They are , ho ever,

much overspread by sup e rfi cial gravels . The superficial deposi ts i n Buckingh amshire a ll belong partly to the Glaci l Epoch . A clay fu of transported boulders covers much of the Oolitic - w outcrops , but the ice sheet to hich i ts formation is attribute d is not known to have crossed the e Chil tern Hills . Along the vall ys there are more r e cent deposits of fl uviatile grav e l in which pal aaolithic implements and remains o f extinct o f mammalia have been discovered . M uch the

chal k is overspread by a nondescript deposit , w th e -w - flints w kno n as clay ith , hich appears to be in the main a relic of Tertiary strata in the sam e region there are many sars e n - stones o r grey w ethers , masses of hardened sand or pebbl es l eft I I BUCKI NGHAM SHI RE lying u pon the chal k after the washing away o f e e the T rtiary beds in which they were form d .

I L R A AN D A U N A IV . F O F — (a ) Fion a Buckinghamshire may be divided — — into two parts the North and South whi c h ff w For di er idely in their botany . botanical pur poses i t is the more general custom to use the various systems o f riv e r drainage as botanical — areas . The county has two such the portions drained respectiv e ly by the Ous e and t h e we Thames . Treating them broadly, find that the botany o f o ne differs considerably from that f 1 e th e o the other . ( ) The district drain d by w e Ouse , hen occasionally it is mark d by gravelly material , as at Westbury Common , gives a heath w Cal/mmEr ica H ericum Flora ith such plants as , yp it/56mm Ga/ium berc nicum A r ortir canina p , y , and g , which di ffers greatly from the flora of the immediate n eighbourhood . In other places , as e w Yri o/ium striatum n ar Winslo , the Clover ( f ) . b e f o f i s may ound . A great extent the country ff on i e sti clay, and this mp rvious soil the Great T a D M A . F. L . S au o o f da B G . C e uce . y l ridg r , , th r lora o Ox rdsfiire Berks/ um and N ortfia m ton F f fl , of qf p r A t the e sen me the o an o f th e c ou n is n ot Mi e. pr t ti b t y ty u nv s a e n or h as an e ne a o a e en th oro ghly i e tig t d , y g r l Fl r b he a fe w e . Th e e h as o e ve for t s e a s publi sh d writ r , h w r , l t y r e e n e n a e in c om n suc a o k an d h as e e n a e b g g d pili g h w r , b bl th e kn o f the o an of th e c oun so far to bri ng owl e dge b t y ty, s its sa e n fe a u e s are conc e ne to some e e e o f com a li t t r r d , d gr e ne H e ou be a to e ce ve an nfo ma on ple t ss. w ld gl d r i y i r ti n the su e c f o an oca o ke a e sse to h im upo bj t r m y l l w r r, ddr d

t 1 18 S ee O xfo . a H igh tr t, rd 12 FLO RA

ff Horsetail grows . T he hedges o er a shelter for e C oniumma m/al um the H mlock ( ), and their borders Di sacus r /w rtrir for the stately Teasel ( p y ), the ’ Groundsel (Sema o the Fleaban e Pu/{caria d senterica Siren ( y ), the Ston e Parsley ( Amomum - ), and , in the badly drained pastures , the ’ nomr r inora Rest Harrow ( O p ) is very common . The hedgerows on the clay have as a frequent c on stit ue nt w C r ata ur ox acantboidcr the Ha thorn ( g y ), a species with larger fruit and with di fferent venation o f the l e aves from the common e r plant 0 O acant/Ja or ny : r n u ne x . C a i a ( . y ) The Cornel ( g ) w e e e is common , and h n calcareous matt r is pr sent in t h e soil we have the Buc kthorn ( R bamnur cutbarticur e Euon mur cura a ur ), the Spindle tre ( y p ) ; ’ whil e o n limeston e soils the Travell er s joy Clematis Vzta/ba 1s w ( ) abundant . The oodlands , spinneys and coppices of Great Bric khill , Great w Hor ood , and Whaddon Chase are also often on clay and then the grass ( Ca/amag ' epigezor) is common . At Gr e at Brickhill th e ’ Par is uadn / a Herb Paris ( q fi z ) occurs . The Throat -wort ( Campanula occurs n e ar

. e Viola r /w rtr ir Lillingston e The Violets incl ud y . Th e Creeping T orme nti l ( Potenti/la pr ocumbmr ) is found near Lillingston e , etc . The Great Burnet Saxifrage ( Pimpine/la major ) is rather w e d idely distribut , as at Shal bourn , Akel ey, West

bury, Brickhill , and M oulsoe , and sometimes as dirrecta M e am the variety . The Cowwheat ( l pyr um rateara m p ) is local , and li kes a ore porous soil . O n a rough , clayey common n ear Westbury the Gr e at Woolly - headed Thistl e ( C a rduur er iopbomr ) w i n 1n gro s great quantity , and , very sparingly, I S BUCKINGHA M SHIRE

’ th e same neighbourhood grows the Dy e r s Weed nirta tincto ia Ge r . ( ) Both Bur Marigolds are found , r i r a mu B idenr t a tit b ut B . re a p being common , is very local , although common at Black Pond , n ear R anunculus Stowe . The Water Buttercups include

m R . nici/ atur R divaricatur uita c l . fl , p , , and in

R beter o b /[ur R . Dr ouctii ponds . p y , , and various

R . eltatus Zannicbe/lia alurt ir forms o f p occur . p r not e e is uncommon , sp cially near Wavendon ; Ma ra b r ida C w e C h arads ( i . hil the , p (Brickhill ), ’ v ul r t a r a o /[a ra ilis C . ar i C . con r z T e f g , g , , and Zyp lom r ata f g e ( Brickhill ) also are ou nd . The Bur reeds Sparganium t ri t i um and neglectum are not f e C arex rare , and sometimes the beauti ul s dge Pse udo-cyper us may be se e n as at Moulso e and Brick hill . The Brambl es are but poorly represented . f f R uour afridar o . A orm occurs at Shalbourn , u m R . besce e perfectly typical p at W stbury Wild , ’ ' au/a h e ecb natoider R . R a f t z is common o ten as var . , R dorna ur R . ccbinatur e . a t is not unfrequ nt , and

w w R . r osaceas occurs n ear Great Hor ood , hil e ’ ' B fll e r s in cunaur grows near u Holt as the var . fi . mb o R . r bo i liur R . j is found n ear . u darypby/l r is widely distributed . Th e roses e R osa tommtora w R mollirrima includ , Sm . ( hich is . , d e h Will ), and this pref rs a lig ter soil and hilly

’ - Th e e A/cbemilla vul ar is ground . Lady s Mantl ( g ) may occasionally be se e n in pastures and wood a ridings . True m rshes and boggy ground are e w rar , but there are patc hes near Winslo and Souls we th e bury, and then may notice Marsh Helle e E i actir alurtrir th e Scba nur borin ( pp p ), Bog Rush ( m e C arcic a sva e n rica . too ig ), the S dges ( fl ), etc H re , , w w Pin uicula vul aris gro the Butter ort ( g g ), the 14

BUCKI NGHAM SHI R E

So/ida o Vir aur ea t h e w w H ier acium ( g g ), Ha k eeds aort a ]: H . umbellatum Buc ksh orn and , the Planta o C or ono us e Plantai n ( g p ), the H mlock Erodium cicutarium th e l eaves Cran esbill ( ), Speed w Ver onica t inalir f w w ell ofi (o ten ith pink flo ers), the Tri olium rtriatum T a w are Do Clovers f and . , the g Viola canina w A r ena r ia r uor a Viol et , the Sand ort , the Chic kweeds C erartium remidecandr um and — C . a r r/ care Teardalia nudica u/ir f , the Cress ( ) o ten — ’ in th e great e st ab undance the v i ne s Succory ' Arnorcrzr uri/la C al/una Er ica ( p ), the Heaths and Er ica ciner ea th e e C a noide: , Cr eping Fumitory p ' cla vica/ata th e Tanacetum o zcina/e orotir , Tansy fi , M ’ col/ina e Dz ita/ir ur urea , the Foxglov g p p , the Crom ' o mum cina/e Anlbr ircu: v u r w L ztb r cr ari . ell p ofi , lg ’ The Cel e ry Apzum gr a w olenr occurs near th e w E ilobium r oreum Simpson , Rose Willo herb p B r aco odium innatum n ear Salford , and the Grass yp p w to near Olney , here the limeston e come the sur e L otur tennis f e Swanbourn fac . has been ound n ar , C ar damine a mar a the Bitter Cress , the Club Rush '

Eleoc/Jarir acicu/a r ir th e C . a cuta , Sedges and l / m h r omur r ao morur C . artia a t e B e p , Grasses and olium ertucacf um L f near Wol verton . e The Thames district res mbles , to a consider e abl e xtent , the Ouse district , exc ept that a o f e portion the c halk scarpment is incl uded in it , o n which are found such plants as the Wood Vicia r lvatica w Sal 'via Vetch ( y ), the M eado Sage ( r atenrir w Galium l fuertr c p ), the Bedstra ( ry ) , the I ber ir a mar a t h e Or cbir Bittercress , Orchids m / r ab n ria cono rea a r a ida i H e a . py , p , etc The De dly e Atr o a B elladonna e e Nightshad ( p ), the H nban H or anm ni er ( y qy g ), several Fumarias and Milk 16 FLO RA

’ w Pol ala ox ter a orts yg yp , etc . , the Lady s Antb /[is Vu/ner aria e Fingers ( y ), the Cant rbury C am anula lomerata w Senecio Bell ( p g ), the Rag ort ( cam estr is As er ula c nancéica p ), the Squinancy Wort p y , ' - - H z b oa e is comosa th the Horse shoe Vetch ( A p ), e H eliantbemum C/Jamaecistus th e Rock Ros ( ), Roses R micrantba R ruoi inosa . , . g , etc . The hilly district o f Brill affords the Henban e ’ H osc amus ni er C no lossum y y g , the Hound s tongue y g

cinale R osa lauca R . s st la ofi , the Roses g and y y th e cultivated ground affords Crepis tar axacifoli a C biennis w Caucalis nodosa and . the aysides and a um etum arex vesicaria C r seg . C occurs near ' ' ; Sea um aasypbyl/uza ( Marsh Snake sh e ad Fritillaria M elea ris Gibbon ), the ( g ) e - n ar Aylesbury , the Fiddle dock near Long e C arex axillaris i Cr ndon , near Princes R sborough , ' C br sos lenz um o osit olium w R anun y p pp if at Bl edlo , cu/us ar wi or us Orr/sis la t olia p fl n ear Risborough , if C arex H ornscbucbiana e and n ar , ’ Alo ecur us ul fvus T /ya an ust o/ia C crastium p f , yp g b , uat m a i m /Ji n a icu S / x S it a a . q , , etc . , near Halton South Buckinghamshire is entirely in the Thames one drainage , portion being drained by the Coln e , w another by the Chess , hil e a third is drained by the W e—o r y , as i t is usually called, the Wycombe — brook and another by the main stream o f th e o f Thames . In South Bucks is the large area w e w the chal k formation , as el l as that cover d ith — more recent deposits bri ck earth , tertiary gravels , low- v etc . , the London clay and l evel gra els . The flora of the Chal k has already been alluded we e to, but may add to those plants alr ady mentioned as occurring in North B ucks , B 17 B UCKI NGHA M SHIR E

A ni/( irl vul ar is E ilobiuman usti olium Cardamine g g g p g f , bulbi er a Hieracium muroram H ellebor us ‘viridis I r is f , , fa tidissima H ericum montanum H Andr osa mum , yp , , H ellebor us a tidus D a bne M ez ereum C alamin f , p , and flsa ar fv olia p if , the latter being abundan t i n many f parts above Wycombe , Chal ont and Bulstrode . The extensive commons have in addition to many plants enumerated fo r North Bucks U lex naazcs C ascuta E itls mum Car ex oincr v‘ is Erica , p y , , Tetralix Salix re orts Actinocar as Ecbinodor as , p , p , r a nunculoides Pe /is Portula A ium inundatum , p , p , C crastium uatcrncllum Genista an lica M ille rana g , g , g R adiola Ccntunculus Salix r e airs Viola canina , , p , , Ornitlso us er asillus R anaac ulus ar ai orus p p p , p fl , e um tridentat m H scia bilum Scul cllar ia Hi raci u . , p , minor L ittorella M rio ls llum alter n or um , , y p y ifl , r ola minor E i actis alustris Py , pp p . Burnham B eeches affords a large number of species as C arduus r atensis N artoecium oss ra um suc h p , if g , ' Pedicularis s lvatica P. alustris Scir us ca s itosus y , p , p p , mul caulis R nclsos ora a D r osera i S. ti alb ratand , y p , ' n ia Vi la lus r s o o D . lo ol o a t f li z . , gif , p , etc Other

commons , such as Stok e Poges , Farnham , Drop more and Iver also have an inter e sting v e geta l um s bt ncum we Tr o i u erra T. tion , and find if , ' ar w nse T. str iatum Sa ina subulata L co odium , , g , y p ' inundaram M amba Pule ium Antbcmis nobili s M rio , g , , y ls llumalter ni olium C lsar a r a ilis N ita/la o aca N p y f , f g p , . exilis R anunculus L in ua Carex vesicar ia Sa lix fl , g , , mbi u r e airs S a a . w p , and . g The oods at Blac k Park , w Penn , , Wycombe , Marlo and o f Dropmore have a rich variety plants . Here R oamnus Fr an ula C arex have been found g ,

la vi ta . stri osa C e t canescens C . a C . la a , g , g , , 18 FL ORA

' Po onatum mult lor um Paris uadr olia L at/Jra a lyg if , g gf , S uamaria J uncoides For steri E mus euro a us g , , ly p th e Potentilla r ocumbens osotis r e (on chal k), p , M ’ ‘ ens Serr atula tinctor ia Paris uaar olia Atr o a p , , o b , p ' amz ne onlo era B elladonna an d C ard if . The meadows through which the Chess passes from Chesham to Chenies contain Polygonum minus B idens cernua Sa ina nodosa M imulu , , g , L an sdo i w Pedicular is g rfi , in great plenty, as ell as palustr is i n the low grounds near the Chal fonts E ilooium r oseum Scir us carieis Or clris lati olia are p , p , f , R osa systyla and by the Coln e I mpatiens biflor a is a e w most abundant plant . The m ado s n ear that '

C arex anzculata C . ar ado a stream have p , p x (very W M r io b llum alter ni or um rarely), hil e y p y fl is i n the f aZnantlse cr ocata f water itsel . is requent . Near

Po onum dumetor um P . mite Fumaria B ora i Iver lyg , , , Arabis er oliata C ar ea elata w p f and gro , and i er ita M entna r ubra and M . pp occur on th e higher w Diantlsus Ar mer ia ground near I ver H eath , here , Ger anium lucidum Or ooanclye R a um- enista , p g and ’ ai m mitbii L epi u S also may be seen . On the gravel pits about Taplow L actuca oirosa Jasione th e is frequent , and here occurs and beautiful grass Aperu Spisva- fuca ti Dipsacus pilosus w H ericumelodes L ittor ella gro s near Cliveden yp , ,

Scare/[ar ia minor . , etc at Dropmore Stacby s annua has been found in c orn fields n ear B omus ar ensis r e/ . Wycombe , at Littl e M issenden B secalinus e . is sometim s very abundant , as near Wycombe ; C l enopodium bybridum has been found B e ac onsfi e ld Peucedanum alustre at , and p occurs w L simacbia tb rs or a ith y y jfl at B ulstrode , the relics ’ probably o f the Duchess o f Portland s fondn ess I 9 B UCKINGHAM SH I RE

for Salvia Verbenaca Cam anula the science . , p R a unculus p occur n ear M edmenham , as does Astr a a us c b l os e e g l gly yp y l . The h aths and grav lly commons and woods give a rich variety o f e brambl s , etc . The woods of the county in the north consist usually of Oak ( Q uer cus pedunculata) with an w o f Pr anus s inosa e undergro th Sloe ( p ), the Wat r Viour num O ulus w Salix Elder ( p ), the Willo s ca rea S cinema S a urita p , . and . in damp places , or of Acer cam estr e occasional ly Mapl e ( p ), and Hazel C or lus A wllana w ( y ), here calcareous soil pre P r us M alus un dominates . The Crab ( y ) is not e w on . frequ nt , especially ood borders At Brickhill there are plantations of Pin e ( Pinus ' sylvestri s) and Larch (L arix europa a) and a fe w B etula older Pa a/us tremula Birch ( ) and Aspen ( p ). In the lower parts of the county the Black Poplar

Po ulus ni ra P. alaa ( p g ) is common , and and a es ns of c n ce are to be seen . Nobl e examples the U lmus cam estris fe w Wych Elm ( p ) occur, and in places are finer specimens of the Common Elm ( U lmus saris/a) to be seen than in the Thames e Acer cam estre w Vall y . The Mapl e ( p ) often gro s i nto fair -sized trees as about Moulsoe whil e the ’ ’ Tzlza euro a a Lime ( p ) is only a planted tree , as is ' ' Tzlza ar vi olia w its relation , p f , of hich a fine w Y e tree gro s at Westbury . On the chal k the w w is native and not uncommon , and here , too, ill be found good exampl es of the Holly ( I lex Agui ' olzum o f f ). A specially interesting feature the northern chal k escarpment is the Box ( B uxus semper r/irens) which above Eddle sborough and V w n ear Ellesborough , at el vet La n , is quite 20 FL O RA

s h no t naturali ed , if indeed, as some t ink , i t is f old native . H ere it seeds reely and som e fine t w specimens are o be seen . It is common kno ledge that Buckinghamshir e is famous for the w o f Beech , hich overspreads the southern slopes the Chilterns . Another characteristic tree o f the chal k is th e C ar inus B etalus w e Hornbeam ( p ), hich is v ry o f th e common , especially on the eastern border - e e county, and there are som e fair siz d tre s near

Be ac o nsfi e ld. Th e Juniper (Juniperus communis) is common on the escarpment as at Prin ces Risborough , Halton , on N a hill etc . , and it is also fou nd p Common and w w in , here, ho ever , the chal k is only covered with a thin deposit . There are good specimens o f Pyrus Aria in many situa n f tio s , and it is a common eature in hedges and - wood borders on the chal k . I n the north of the county the Cherry ( Pr unas ’ awum f f ) is the prevailing orm , bu t is o ten only naturalised ; but in the south the prevailing P C crasas w f species is . , hich is very requent , and in a native tree . There is a good specimen

Bulstrode Park . Isolated exampl es of the Servic e tree Pyr as ’ ' mznalzs tor . occur, as at Fulmer, etc At Black of Park there are extensive plantations Larch , w n C astanea sari s/a Pin e, and S eet Chest ut ( ), but the latter does not appear to be native . I n the w peaty meado s , as n ear Eton , Burnham B eeches , Alnus lutinosa w etc . , the Alder ( g ) occurs , hil e the Thames Vall ey shows splendid specimens o f the w S s alix aloa S . ra ili Po ulus ni ra P. Willo s , f g , p g , 2 1 BU CKl N G H AM SHI RE

o P canesc s al a . en w and , ith the planted Lombardy e of M ise lto e Vis Poplar . On som these the ( cum aloam f w ) is rather requent , as ell as occasion o n ally the Lime . The Ash (Fraxinus elatior ) is widely distributed but is better grown o n calcareous soil . 5 Fauna —O f of ( ) . the Fauna the county i t is unnecessary to speak in detail it is similar to that - of all the southern midland counties . In all the copses the nightingal e is found in great numbers odd w but often in irregularity, hil e the valleys o f the Ouse and the Thame are the haunts o f w f w many but not uncommon ater o l .

PU L A N AN D N D U S ES V . PO TI O I TRI

From the description given of the county of Buckingham it will be s e e n that its population is e c u u e w w the chiefly engag d in agri lt r . Its to ns , ith e e m are x c ption of High Wyco be and Slough , e th e d small , and , d pending as they do on tra e of th e are n c e ar surrounding rural districts , e ss ily affe e e f u ct d by th ir prosperity or ill ort ne . At the Census of 191 1 the population of th e county of Buckingham was of B uc k 2 82 of e of ingham 3 , Ayl sbury Th e population o f th e c 1 0 1 was 1 1 ounty in 9 in 83 , th e u f Agriculture , then , is main occ pation o the inhabitants from th e me adows of Olne y to e e e e of a e o f e the xt nsiv pastur s the V l Ayl sbury, and from the summits of the Chilt e rns to the 2 2

B UCKI NGHAM SHI RE

o wn their land . It was probably this knowl edge which caused French emigrants to come to Buck in h amshire f 1 g and Bed ordshire in 7 94. For the other cause we are referred to the residenc e o f Katherine of A ragon at Ampthill in and on the borders of Bedfordshire from 153 1 to 153 3 p e nd was ing her appeal to the Pope . She proficient o f w d in the art n eedle ork , and there is goo reason to suppose that she solaced herself nc c only by practising the art, but by spreading i t among the surrounding peasantry and until the ” 1 Cat tarns latter hal f of the 9th century Day, 2 th was November 5 , kept as the annual holiday of - e Histor o En lisb the lace mak rs . (Palliser, y f g

L ace th c d. 0 2 w on 1 . , 4 , 9 , p As time ent a knowledge of the art of lace - making extended of throughout the county Buckinghamshire , and Fo e wh o D e , used to travel over every part “ of A : o f England, says of yl esbury Many the poor here are employed in making lac e for edgings not much inferior to those of Flanders but it is some pleasure to us to observe that the English are not the onl y nation in the world which admires foreign manu factures above its own wh o , since the French , gave fashions to most ’ d An l e te rre nations , buy g or English laces and of N e wport Pagnell he says The town carries on a great trade in bone lace , and the same manufacture employs all neighbouring villages w 1 0 of hil e Don Manuel Gonzales , in 7 3 , speaks f its lace as littl e inferior to that o Flanders . It was practised ali ke by men and women , and in 180 1 out of the 12 7 5 i nhabitants of 0 - of 80 were lace makers . I n the middle last 24 POPULAT I O N AND I NDUSTRI E S c e ntury the numbe r h ad declined to 500 ; to -day not mo re than 50 can be found wh o understand h ow e e wh o e the to mak lac , and practis art at e of e all . In s veral the larg r villages schools n 16 2 6 existed for its teaching . S o lo g ago as Sir Henry Borlas e founded and erected th e free school of for twe nty f r - four boys and o twenty four girls to knit , e e and u spin , and mak bon lace, tho gh as e to an industry it has d creased , this day it is a spe ci al if a minor industry of the county . a e h as e w Buckingh mshir lace is , and b en al ays , w two ffe n pillo lace , but there are kinds di ri g in patte rn though not in their manner of — e w manufacture bon or bobbin and pillo point . use w But this of the ord point is inaccurate , c e a e sin point l ce is , strictly speaking , lace mad with a ne e dle on a parchment pattern ; e ach w f u of kind is , ho ever , by no means di fic lt th e e n fl uc tua imitation , and d ma d for it is so ting as to preve nt it at the present time from being a large or continuously flourishing busi

. now two e u e ness But , as or thre cent ri s ago , w e the manner of orking is the sam , and in many parts of Buckinghamshire one may se e a woman with the large round pillow on h e r w the w th e e lap, to hich paper hereon patt rn of the work is drawn is mark e d out and e of w fastened by a numb r pins , round hich the thread is worked by q ui c kly moving bone o w b bbins . I t is an industry hich appeals little the e n to the youth of pr se t day . It has never been be tter describe d than by Cowper 2 5 BUCKINGHAM SH I RE with his singular power o f depicting the local life around him

Y on co a e wh o e a ve s at h e r own oo tt g r, w d r Pill ow and b obbi ns all h e r littl e store ; C on e n t ou me an an d c e e fu if n ot a t t h gh , h r l g y, Sh ufli in her t e a s a ou the ve on da g hr d b t li l g y, Just e arns a sc anty pittance and at n ight L e s o n se cu e h e r e a an d ock e i d w r , h rt p t light Sh e for h e r um e s e e b n a u e , h bl ph r y t r fit , H as e un e s an n and n o littl d r t di g, wit .

North o f the Chilterns there are still to be found quarries which have been used from very of w - w ancient times , such as that the ell kno n w w w e Portland stone at Hart ell , here a clay bet e n the stone and the Ke me ridge clay was obtained e now by the Romans for pott ry, and is used for bricks . But these are mere sporadic occupations w and give no character to the county, hich , in spite o f its l ength and differences of soil and scen ery, is thus singularly homogeneous . The — rearing o f large white ducks known as Ayl es — bury ducks is much practised in the farms and villages in the low- lying district to the north o f w o f the Chilterns , hil e in the vall eys to the south them , especially abou t Chesham and Wycombe , the cultivation o f watercress employs many persons .

M M U N C A N S VI . CO I TIO

a R oads — O f th e ( ) . roads most noticeabl e is the

wh e o n . main road ich nters the county its S E . d - w bor er near Littl e Brickhill , and runs north est 2 6 ROADS w f ard to Stony Strat ord, covering throughout its e distance the ancient Watling Street . From ast to west are also two modern roads which are ide nti cal with portions of the Upper and Lower Ick w w w w nield ays , hich ere ancient British high ays , of along the northern base the Chilterns , the former entering the county near Eddl e sborough w and leavi ng it at Bledlo . There is yet w another road , hich entering the county at Aston -w Clinton runs north est through Ayl esbury , and old e is the same as the Ak man Street . These highways have in former days been e w sometimes call d Roman ork , sometimes British , but there can be no doubt that they were abori gimal tracts which were i mproved and utilised by each succeeding generation wh e ther Roman o r w I c knield Saxon . This is obvious hen the Upper wa w for on e y is follo ed throughout its l ength , there sees h ow there must always have be e n a necessary road— raised above the marshes and mud o f the meadows of the val e and below th e steep slopes which mark the higher parts of th e of th e northern face Chilterns . No road is more e f d light ul , presenting at every turn extensive and w —ou on e th e agreeabl e vie s the hand, distant w on fields dotted ith villages and hedges , and the of other, the varying forms the uprising hills . A large number of the roads o f B uckinghamshire no w so - are call ed main roads , and under the con of f trol the Coun ty Council , though , in act , the distinction between main and district roads is by o f no means easy to define . The chief these roads is the main highway from London , which enters to h the county at Denham , and thence runs Hig 2 7 B UCK INGHAM SHIRE

Wycombe and through the ranges o f the Chilterns f o f R e d to Ox ord . At the top Hill , Denham , this road bifurcates , and another main road continues M isbo rn up the u e vall ey to Ayl esbury . From this w to n , in addition to the road and the or on e Bedfordshire road, trun k - w road runs north east to Winslo , Buckingham and e w w Brackl ey, and anoth r est ards to Thame in

Oxfordshir e . The eastern and western portions of central Bucks are connected by a fine main road from Ayl esbu ry to Linslade (Leighton

Buzzard). Yet another important road runs nearly due east from through and to Ol ney and thenc e to the Bedfordshire border near o n e of the best roads in the county . The char acter of both the main and the district roads is fl o f largely in uenced by the range the Chilterns , north of it the highways are usually broad and w generally repaired ith granite, and especially in the extrem e north are as good as any roads in w o f England, immediately south ard the range they w flint w e are narro and y high ays , except in the cas two m of the ain roads already mentioned , and no systematic effort has yet been made to meet in creasing traffi c by i mprovements either in width or contour . Those wh o wish to cross th e Chilt e rns from b e e fu a a wh N . to S . should car l to t ke a ro d ich “ ” l e ads through one of the four gaps in th e se W e are . . hills . Th se , taking them from E to , “ ” h e e the t H rts gap , that is , opening through whi c h th e L ondon and North -We ste rn Railway “ n th e e w passes near Tri g ; W ndover gap, hich 2 8 RAI LWAYS AND CANALS has been used by th e Metropolitan Railway ; “ ” ’ th e w r gap in hich Chequer s Cou t stands , ’ and which is reached from Butler s Cross ; and “ the w the Risborough gap, through hich Great e Western Rail way passes from High Wycomb . h e th e T m . ascent fro N to S . by any of roads “ ” through the se gaps is easy ; the other roads t e across he hill s are st ep and fatiguing . The ’ u e e e road from B tl r s Cross to Gr at Missend n , w e w though by far the orst of th se high ays , is unquestionably the most picturesque . b R ailw a s and Canalr — Th e e t ( ) y . M tropoli an lw u Rai ay runs through the centre of the co nty, f e n rom its bord r near Chenies to Verney Junctio ,

v s . e ha ing a mall branch W to Brill . On the ast - w w is the London and North Western Rail ay , ith

e e e . the u e fl s v ral branc h s The W . of co nty is chi y se rved by th e Great We ste rn Railway and its e P d branche s . Another lin with connections to a dingtou and Marylebone is from D e nham to Prin ce s Risborough junction th e joint line of the Gre at

Western and Gre at Central Rail ways . It divides c e e th e at Prin s Risborough , one lin is then part of e e e e Gre at W st rn syst m to O xford , the oth r is part of the Gre at Ce ntral syste m and forms a direct c n w th e ommu ication ith Rugby and north . F rom ‘ also a Gre at N e stern Bran c h e u of th e t runs to Ayl sb ry . A portion S ou h e e th e c u th W stern syst m is also in o nty , and in e — north is a bit of the Midland line for d e tail s of Th e n above se e map. Grand Ju ction Canal tra e e e we v rs s the ast and st of the county .

29 BUCKINGHAM SH I RE

N U T ES VI I . A TIQ I I

The County of Buckingham has no im e th e portant pr historic remains . To age of the Britons may perhaps be ascribe d some of the so - e e e call d camps , m r grassy mounds near s e e which are indication of rude ditch s . Of thes the be st known is th e striking e arth -work which ’ is popularly call e d Cymbeline s Mount or Kimbl e a e e C stl , clos to E llesborough , tradition having rashly connected it with the rule of King Cuno be linos u . I t is possible eno gh that this chief, whose headquarte rs were at Camulodunum ( Col che st e r ) but wh o also poss e sse d Ve rulamium (St A lbans) should have had a fortifie d post on the spurs of the Chilte rns which proj e ct northwards into the Vale of Aylesbury and dominate the e e e fe rtil fields at th ir fe e t . But to id ntify this so- calle d fort with a particular Chi eftain is to ve nture from s urmise to unfounde d ass e rtion of a fact . Of the Romano - British period which c on clud e d in the fifth ce ntury there are no im a e portant remains . Vill s at High Wycomb , L atime rs e and Hambl don , coins and vases dis at e e e covered th s places , at F nny S tratford and at r e e the a Weston Tu vill , indicat existence of Rom n c th e c u ivilisation in parts of o nty , though it was o ne of the thinner space s of Roman a Brit in . To the Romano - British age has also been ascribed the so- call e d pile dwe lling discovered at e th e 18 H dsor near bank s of the Thames in 95, 3 0

B U CKI NGHAM SHI RE

u e its church . It exhibits continuo s and reason d e e e d v lopment , and chang s both practical and artistic . If we endeavour to classify the Buckinghamshire e c hurches topographically, they may be introduc d w with the Olney group , hich , having in its centre e the E arly D e corate d church by the Ous , is formed w lie w fe w e by seve ral churches , hich ithin a mil s of e ach other in the north of the county, and Th e are ge ne rally dignified and important . most r n notable a e E mberton , Sherrington , Clifto w Reynes , and Lavendon . Some hat more to the south we come upon another grou p lying not far f w rom the Northamptonshire border, hich includes the fine Decorated churches of Han — slope and the former on e of th e fe w w hich has a s pire , and thereby indicates fl of the in uenc e the Midland district . Another group is that whic h contains the churches i n the area between Buckingham on the north -west and o n - Bletchl ey the south east , and from the Ouse in the north to in the south . I t con sists o f small churches in which whatever was the w w o f original styl e , Perpendicular indo s marked and conspicuous character, have been largely and generally inserted . These details stamp this district with an arch itectural individuality which is emphasised by the fact that al most i n its centre we find the Perpendicular tower of Great ’ w e Hor ood, that in clos to we th e B uckingham , have fin est Perpendicular t e n church in the county, and at , not - w miles to the south est, another church in the same styl e not in ferior except for its tower to 3 2 ARCH ITECT URE

Maids Moreton . We may perhaps surmise that the influence of a single architect is visible i n all of these churches . The Val e Ayl esbury, that is sa f w e o n to y , the country rom Ste kl y to Wing the w e E . and to and Chet od e and Hadd nham on the W . is mark ed by many admirabl e churches varied in character . Exc ept M aids Moreton and Hill esden they show in most cases archi tectural changes extending i o f e 1 1th over a long per od tim , from the to th e e nd of 1 r the 5th c entu y . Along the of on northern edge the Chilterns , the last spurs of we fi f l the hills , nd yet another group rom Ed es w on borough on the E . to Bledlo the W a lin e o f buildings interm ediate between the larger of o f churches the val e and centre the county , and the poorer buildings of southern B ucking e hamshire, but ev ry on e suggestive and interest of ing . To the W . the Wycombe Vall ey there are also a fe w churches on the heights of the of Chilterns , all them small and generally largely of f w constructed lint , bu t not anting in many e of e w d tails inter st , and hich , by their situation , deserve a separate division , and may conveni ently be cal led the West Chiltern group . Of the char ac te ristic s of o f the churches S . the high lin e o f th e we e e Chilterns have alr ady spok n . Of compl e te e xample s of any one of th e we ll re c ognised styl e s of me dimval English ar c hite cture e few —o f ther are . The chief are Norman , w o f th e Ste kl ey ; Early English , chancel at e w o f f if Ch t ode ; Decorated, the per ect , cold and e c o f w acad mic , hurch Olney, and a building hich gives a better idea o f th e fertility o f i magin ation C 3 3 BUCKI NGHAM SH IRE and weal th o f design which characterises Decor w o f ated ork , the church of Milton Keyn es ; e Perpendicular, Maids Moreton , Hill sden and

North Marston are the best exampl es . At the end of this summary of the arc hitec ture o f the county on e may note that the haml et o f w f S W o f Ga cott , a mil e and a hal to the . . Buck was a e o f ingham , the birthpl c Sir Gilbe rt S cott ( 18 1 1 of which at the time his fathe r h e ld th e e ua c e h perp t l uracy . S cott r garded imself as — scar c e l y a Buckinghamshire man clergym e n lik e — his father b e ing so much birds of passage but it woul d not be easy to find on e wh o was more e w c closely connected by parentag ith the ounty , fo r f was w of his ather born at Weston Under ood , w f was e 1 80 hich his grand ather curat in 7 . Th e f w e w h e ollo ing y ar he removed to Olney, here became the fri end of Cowper as he had been o f e w was John N ton . Gilbert Scott a singularly e l old impr ssionab e boy, and unquestionably the churches which were to be found i n th e villages about his home had a permanent in fl uence 0 11 his f e h e li e and car er . In early boyhood e wand red f w rom village to village ith his pencil , and in his R ecollections he has l eft a vivid d e scri ption o f his th e u f E E h an e l . c c w first visit to bea ti ul . at Chet ode . Th e in fl u e nce o f the architecture o f th e county was e w e f e 18 2 6 still pr sent h n he l e t his hom in , fo r w e w th e he ent to liv and study ith his uncl e , e L atime rs f Rev . Samu l King, at . Again , a ter the o f 18 1 e two conclusion his pupilage in 3 , he sp nt weeks at studying and sk e tching the w c churches hich he ould reach . From that date was e e w f Scott r mov d by his ork rom the county, 34 ROOD SCRE EN S

was h e but it to the last in his thoughts , and found no gre ater pleasure than in he lping to re h e store the ch urches which e kn w so we ll . — 1 R oad Screens andC ar vin . Of wood ( ) g carving , — more e spe c ially of rood scre ens and e ve ry me di aeval church had some thing in the natu re o f a barrie r o r — screen betwe e n the chancel and th e nave there are e f e m the c e a fe w examples l t . Of th most noti ble e N w e H e are at Edl sborough , orth Cra l y and at ill s de n e u e w . The Edl sboro gh scr en , ith the stalls ac e e e e which are att h d to it , giv s us a perf ct impr s f th e e ae e e use sion o m di val chanc l . The univ rsal of the rood scre en s e e ms also to e xplain the purpose — of the hagioscope or th e squint -hol e as it is more e — w f e popularly call d hich is ound in some church s , e w e e giving a sid vie into the chanc l , enabling a p rson , whether an atte ndant or a membe r of the congr e ation se e e w was e g , to into the chanc l , hich hidd n e e by the rood scr n from the nave . Of other forms of d e signs in wood the re is one r e markable exampl e — - e s the pulpit and sounding board at E dl borough , which in abundanc e of de tail and delicacy of e x e cution may be ranked with the m ast e rpiece s w d v Th e of w w of oo car ing . oldest piece ood ork

E E . in the county is probably the carved . arch , w - a the c n ith dog tooth orn ment , in hurch at Upto . 2 M ur al Paintin s —I n h u e re ( ) g . several c rch s — mains of mural painti ngs exist some of which have e e e e — e b n rec ntly discover d as at Littl Kimble, a e e e de M ids Mor ton , Littl Horwood , L ittl Hamp n , e n e w G r at Hampde , Whitchurch , Bl dlo and Chal f e e th e e ont St Giles . Of th s most int resting are at e d e e e L ittl Hamp en . Th y are remarkabl as arly work s of art and as indicating the ge neral use of e a mural pictur s in the me diaeval church e s o f Engl nd . 3 5 BUCKI NGHAM SH IRE

onts — the of (3) F . The fonts in churches Buckinghamshire are of much arc ha ological and ar tistic of a e the importance . As indications the g of churches in which they are found th e y often are e e e of no little value , and in th ms lv s they are t r e xe cu in eresting from thei form , design , and w e e tion . The point hich is p rhaps most notic e th e e x e abl is istenc of many Norman fonts , e r a those at Ayl sbury , Monks Risborough , and G e t e e e u the a Kimbl , for instanc , hav s rvived ch nges th e v e e of religion , iol nc of iconoclasts and the e t c e f alt ra ions of ar hit ctural ashion . Though oftentime s some what rud e in execution the se Norman fonts show a powe r and a we alth of design whi c h appe al e d to men of more r e c e nt c au e e b e h e times , and s d th m to preserved w n the e r w was e e plain r No man ork entir ly d stroyed . o f a e th e t r c In fonts l t r date coun y is not so i h , but that at Le c khampste ad is o f gre at value and beauty . B r asses — e are (4) . A s r markable as the fonts the monume ntal brass e s which are to be found all e u n e the d e ov r B cki ghamshir , extending from mid l of 1 the of 16 e w e the 3th to end th c ntury, h n this e f o f e e w durabl orm m morial prevail d , a period hich comme nced and e nd e d with a singular abruptne ss the e a in Buckinghamshire as in r st of E ngl nd . We may be surprised to fi nd an art o f a some what e laborate kind so abundant in a poor seclud e d dis triet such as was the space of woodlands and valleys e th e whi c h e xte nd e d from th Chilterns to Colne . But we m ust reme mbe r that it was at no gre at e r h e ad ua1te rs distanc f om L ondon , the q of a e of w e w r be numb r artists in brass , hos o k is to 36 BRASS ES found in the country from the M etropolis to th e V e o f al Aylesbury . e The Bucks brass s are usually small , and com o f e c e memorate men no gr at social importan , but wh o seized the opportunity to l eave to post e rity e o wn or e e e o f e e th ir the lik n ss s their r lativ s , w wh o own unkno n Englishmen in their day, in a e e o f sequest r d val e life , passed the noisel ess tenor o f wa wh o to their y, but , thanks this art , have , e w o f f e by a som hat singular irony at , l eft to distant generations their e ffigies when those o f men wh o play e d a much more striking part have long dis appeared . But though the monumental brasses recal l th e names of men and women wh o would otherwis e hav e long ceased to be remembered e xc e pt i n old - musty parish registers and titl e deeds , they also remind us that oftentimes in the past o n e g e n eration cared very littl e for the memory o f that w hich had gon e before . The palimpsest brass is at onc e a memorial to the p e rson wh o is chronologically most lately portrayed u pon it , on of and is , the other hand evidence the small degree o f piety fo r the past i n the persons by w w s For w e hom it a ordered . h ther a palimpsest brass b e one which has had a figure drawn o n the r e vers e or blank side (li ke that at Denham church) so that wh e n placed on the tomb the original e fli for o r w e gy is hidden perhaps ever , h ther it be o n e which h as had the original design compl etely or partially destroyed , as in the d R 1 Brass to Sir Hanson , Vicar, 545, at ’ f of Chal ont St Peter s , by that the more recent e artist , it is in either case a curious instanc of some 3 7 BUCKI NGHA M SHI RE thing approaching to impi ety and want of filial ’ fe . e o f th e eli ng I t is , no doubt , an exampl artist s of c th e ingenuity , and probably also the scar ity of e e n c ssary metal , but it is perhaps most i nteresting as sh owingth e abse nc e ofre ve re nc e fo r th e monuments o f 16 th 1 th the past in the and 7 centuri es . An observation of the Buckinghamshire brasses shows the caus e of the decline of the art of the brass w w ork er in England as in other countries . To ards t h e middl e o f th e 16 th c e ntury ther e gr e w a desir e fo r a mor e realistic treatment of monu We se e i t 1n th e ments . colouring on the fine tom b ne un w c the of An , Co tess of War i k (d . in c e e e e c e hap l at Ch ni s , and in the r umb nt figure o f the girl reclining on her elbow as in repose in the e Brude n ell monumen t at Stoke M andevill . This tend e ncy gradually produc e d th e often hid e ous o f e exagge ration jacobean monu mental sculptur . N o w b e and then i t is to found in a brass , as i n Br e adsch awe . that at W ndover, to William , Gent 1 w 53 7 , and that at Tinge ick to Erasmus Williams , which are attempts at portraiture . A still more striking e xampl e of the pictori al treatm e nt o f brasses is to be noted i n the monu m e nt ( 1595) in Datch e t church to Richard of Hanbury, citizen , and goldsmith London , and w Al es , his ife . The plate is oblong, the man in a w e e w fe go n kn els at a desk , opposit to him his i l e w in a large ruff ; books i open bet een them . o n t h e This is a picture brass , and emphasises ’ o f w e w limitation the metal ork rs range, hose art was su ffi ci ent when men wer e satisfied with m e re e w or outlin d figures , ithout distinctive personal facial characteristics . 3 8

BUCK I NGHAM SHI RE

e s e all architectural interests , ind ed it is impos ibl to trave rse m any mile s of the country without n u e e findi g , often n xpectedly , som domestic buildi ng which shows us h o w our fore fathers i th e e a l ved . Nor should innumerabl cott ges built in th e 16th and 17th centuries be ove r at n t e w looked , o ce picturesque and comfor abl , arm i n w e e w h int r and cool in summ r , ith t eir heavily thatche d roofs and with thick walls crossed by w w w w e t u ood ork , hich ill y o tlast the productions

of th e d e r u . mo ern j r y b ilders A gain , the alms s e n hou es at Am rsham , Quainton, Wi g , Shenley and — — Sherrington we enu merate only a fe w are exampl es o f buildings a little more ambitious ’ not than the peasant s cottage , l ess in size but l ess i nteresting than the manor houses , as illustrations no t only of a form o f domestic architecture bu t a o f of social habits and customs , and of form reli ef in old age which at anyrate preserves n somethi g of the feeling of a home .

S IX . HI TORY

B uckinghamshire in th e British and the Romano “ British age was only a poo r pas toral and woodl and f ue f tract o land . Subseq ntly it ormed part of th e m e b ut the h Saxon Kingdo of M rcia , occupation of t e Te utonic rac e is e videnc e d only by the nome nclature o f w and v e e of many to ns illag s , t lling the ex ist e e e un nc of num rous comm ities . In Buckingham , A f e e e a ylesbury , Chal ont , D nham , taking th s pl c e s

. h as examples in a line from the N to the S . of t e 40 HI STO RY

e e ne - county , v ryo Anglo Saxon in its origin , we n a a e e have i dic tions of the g in q u stion . T h e devotion of th e Normans and the 1r imm e diat e successors to the Church is visibl e throughout the richest portions o f Buckingham s f of to hire , rom the valley the Ouse the valley o f o f e the Thames , the fragments Notl y and of e w Burnham Abbeys , the churches St kl ey and

Wing, are striking indications both of the religious z eal and of the flourishing state of the Norman w 12 h lando n ers during the t and 13th centuri es . But of the numerous religious houses before th e dissolution of the monasteri e s with which the was — Biddle sde n county studded , Lavendon , R e e e w — h avenston , Miss nd n , and Brad ell ardly a trac e remains . Buckinghamshire affords many illustrations of the amazing alte ration which was caus e d in the social and pr0prie tarial condition of E ngland by e n the Conquest . An xtraordi ary change of t h e w e w o n rship of its land follo ed this event . When William distribute d the estates of th e Saxon thanes among some of 1118 most notabl e w w follo ers , partly as private o ners and partly as of n ew guardians the order, the largest por o f to ff tions the county fell Walter Gi ard , to ’ - e William s half brother Odo, Bishop of Bay u x, I f C nstan e ff o o c . and to Geo rey, Bishop But remarkable as was the change both in the w e superior lando ners and in the syst m , i t had little effect on the lower grades of rural in

1 Wa e G ffa 8 mano s B s o o f Ba e ux 2 6 lt r i rd , 4 r ; i h p y , ; the B s o o f Cons ance 18 W am z -A nsculf 16 i h p t , ; illi Fit , ; M n Ea o o 1 M o C s n 12 e tc . rl rt , 3 il ri pi , , 4 1 BUCK I N GHAM SH I RE h Th abitants . e Sax on th ane was r e plac e d by th e r or e e Norman ba on knight , not n c ssarily by o ne h of t e fe w chief landowne rs but mo re often by me n who h h held from them , and w o be came t e fore e e e h e be fath rs of the h reditary g ntry , w o w re to s e e n th roughout th e county up to the be ginning o f th e

r . v e th e the last centu y But the ill in , bordar and f e t h e w i h ow ser remain d i n same position , ork ng, for of e ever, a Norman in place a Saxon mast r . 1 o f T hat in the 5th century the , people Buckinghamshire should b e deeply influenced by the teaching o f Wy c li ffe and o f his assistants is no t was surprising . This county at no great distance from the two centres from whi c h Wycliffe and his pre ach e rs started on their — w own journ eys Lutter orth , his living, and

own . Oxford , his University Ludgershall in we e Buckinghamshire , bet en Oxford and Ayl sbury, was a living which he obtain ed and exchanged for 1 6 8 Fillingham in 3 , but during the ti me that he held this preferment he seems to have been a no n- e of residential r ctor, Oxford being his place o f e abode . Still the mere tenure Ludg rshall would be su ffi ci ent to give Wycli ffe a peculiar e e int rest in Buckinghamshir , and to strengthen his influence among its landowne rs and its e he e e d wn e c e e r re peasantry aft r had s ttl d o in L i st shi , and among the dism al storie s which attach to th e town of A me rslram are thos e of the e x e cutions o f a e th e h e numerous L ollards . In the g of Stuarts t e sam — te nd e n c y to individual fre edom whe the r re ligious — or s e c ular is s e e n in th e adherence of th e majority the me n h e w of of Buckinghams ir , among hom e e a c ir Hampd n is immortal , and of thos in soci l 42 CO UNTY TITLE S c umstanc e s o f th e beneath them , to the cause e e e was b e f Parliam nt . H re and ther to ound a e chivalrous adherent of Charl s , as Sir Edmund Ve w e e e rney, hose charming charact r has b n por tra e d M emor ials o tbe Ver n Fa mi y in the f ey ly, x e wh o and in Sir Al e and r Denton , lost son and home by his preferenc e for th e Royalist cause . Ayl e sbury during the Civil War was more than ’ th e of once headquarters Essex s army, opposed e e f e f alik in position and r ligious e lings to Ox ord , ’ w e e w s e w h r the King s army a lying . N port e was Pagn ll , too, strongly garrison ed by the Parlia me ntarians was of e , and great strategic im portanc . H al f a c e ntury later Buckinghamshire produced e nthusiastic adherents to the cause of Georg e f s f was Fox , and rom Ayle bury to Chal ont there not a villag e in which we r e not to be found ste adfast supporte rs of Q uakerism willing to e e u suffe r s e vere pains and p nalti s for th e ir ca se . e of and e t e r of Of a lat r age , the politics l t s the 18th e are e century, memori s recall d not c e e of we only by the melancholy magnifi nc Sto , Be aconsfie ld e but by , Bulstrod , Dropmore and But th e s Stok e Poges . a sociations which be long to the se and other pl ac e s in mod e rn w are e e a times , and hich larg ly lit r ry , do not alte r th e main historica l charact e ri sti c s of uc n B ki ghamshire . Titles derived rom clsc C aunt —O f wh o f y . those have bor ne a titl e tak e n from th e county itself the e Th e first in point of tim are th e Giffards . a e e ff e and th e u e g d Walt r Gi ard , the fri nd co ns llor a the u - e of Willi m Conq eror , the standard b arer at was as e e n the Senlac , not, has b n ge erally assumed , 43 BUCKI NG HAM SH I RE

o f no first Earl Buckingham . The point is by w e was means clear, bu t it ould s em that this titl e e H e was a . giv n to his son , nother Wal ter f w wh o e ollo ed by his son , also Walter, di d in 1 16 was 4, and buried according to some accounts at Longuevill e i n France , according to others in h u the abbey which e had fo nded at Notl ey . 1 son o f In 3 7 7 Thomas Plantagen et , youngest w was o f Ed ard I I I . , created Earl Buckingham , was e and succ eded by H umphrey, his son . o f ff w of re Humphrey , Earl Sta ord , nephe the p e was of c ding, also called Earl Buckingham , and two others o f this line bore the titl e of Duk e o f

Buckingham . Perhaps the two best known w th e two holders of the titl e ere Villiers , the evil of c advisers the Stuart monar hs . George Villiers was 16 1 created Earl of Buckingham in 7 , mar 16 18 16 2 was quis in , and in 3 he created a duke . e on The titl e becam extinct the death of his son ,

f of . the equally famous avourite Charl es I I , in 16 8? It 1 1 e ffi e 7 3 John Sh ld , third E arl of Mul the a t e was grave , st tesman and man of le t rs , e e u n and cr at d D ke of Bucki gham Normanby, but the title in this family became e xti nct th on e d e ath of the s e cond duk e in 17 3 5. 18 c e t he e e e e t In the th ntury T mpl s , ss n ially e e e e e a Buckinghamshir family , b cam mor clos ly w th e u e e e associated ith co nty by titl . G org e e w - L ie uten Gr nville , Earl Templ , t ice L ord f e was r e 1 8 ant o I r land , c eat d in 7 4 Marquis u of Buckingham . His son became a d k e 1 2 2 was who im ru in 8 . It his son by his p was dence brought ruin on the family, and it 44 A RM S O F TH E COUNTY

18 8 w during his lifetime, in 4 , that the famous Sto e sal e of books and works of art took plac e . At h o f the deat his successor, the third duk e, a l ead 188 ing Conservative politician in his day, in 9, we the titl e became extinct , and the palace at Sto became a monument of magnificenc e that seems to have departed fo r ever . — The titl e o f Earl o f Buckinghamshire only a slight change i n the nomenclature— has been e n e 1 6 the born si c 7 4 by Hobarts , a Norfol k w e was e e family , h n John Bacon Hobart cr at d e th e de th e Earl of B uckinghamshir . On ath of third 18 2 th e and last Viscount Hampden in 4 , fifth Earl o f Buckinghamshire succeeded to the historic

Hampden estates . This seems to be the first con n e c tion o f the Hobarts with Buckinghamshire . The A rms o tlse C ount — w f y T he s an , the arms o f was o f Buckinghamshire , the family badge wi El eanor de Bohun . On her marriage th Thomas of Woo dstoc k of o f , Duk e Gloucester, youngest son w f h o . o w Ed ard I I I , it became that her husband , was f 1 created Earl o Buckingham in 3 7 7 . Their ff f daughter Ann e marri ed into the Sta ord amily , e ff was and her son , Humphr y Sta ord , created Duk e of 1 B uckingham in 444 . Through these dukes o f the Stafford family the swan became so associated with the shi re as to be adopted fo r f the county arms . The date o the actual appro riation p is uncertain , but i t must have been o f ff f during the ascendency the Sta ord amily, wh en they held the M anor o f Buckingham and e w 1 16 oth r estates , bet een the 4th and th centuries .

4 5 BUCKINGHA M SH I RE

' H rs ro arc a r. HA AC E S X . C R T R

a Statesmen — Of me n who w ( ) . , by ork for e e the State , have achi ved a plac in history , and wh o have also pass e d so much of thei r li fe in the county as to give them a right to be e nume rated among thos e wh o may properl y be w u e associated in history ith B ckinghamshir , t h e first is unque stio nably th e old warrior of e e a th e e the A rqu s and S nl c , comrad and th e a ff r adviser of Conqueror , W lter Gi a d , to whom fell no l e ss than forty - eight of o f th e the manors county , a numbe r o f w c we b e hi h , ho ver , distributed among his e e s r tain r . In the age of El1z ab eth we meet w1th two f eminent men , Arthur Grey , ourteenth Lord Grey 1 1 de Wilton , and Sir John Fortescu e ( 53 whose country homes were not far apart at Wh ad O fSir oh n — don and at Salden . J Fortescue the suc c e ssful , learned and abl e civil servant , the valu ed i w and trusty adv ser of Elizabeth , hose elaborate monument we may still see i n church w something is said here this place is described . was ff of who 1 8 2 Grey a di erent type man , , in 5 , was taken from a useful if obscure life at Whaddon to fill th e difficul t post of Lord Deputy was to of Ireland . He unable quel l the Desmond th e of two e e rebellion , and at end y ars Ir land was in a more unhappy state than when Gr e y was first set foot in it . Thus he as ready to quit the melancholy scen e as Elizabeth and h e r w f advisers ere anxious to supersede him , and rom the day when he return ed without reluctanc e 46

BUCKINGHAM SHI R E

was home among the Chilterns . He educated

first at Thame Grammar School , j ust outside the of was borders the county, and then he a student

o f . Magdal en College , Oxford Bu t every journey that he took to and from Thame and Oxford he passed through the meadows o f the Val e o r w w was w Ayl esbury, ith hich he as ell acquainted w of as with the oodlands the Chilterns . After he 16 1 w married , i n 9, Hampden settl ed do n at Great e Hampden , r presenting the n eighbouring littl e town o f Wendover i n the first three Parliaments o f Charles I in the Short Parliament (April and in the Long Parliament he was o ne

f . o the members for the county At Great Kimble , o n 16 a January morning in 3 5, he made his pro o f test against shi p money, and in respect the 2 0 3 e . tax on his state i n the parish of Stoke f M andevill e, there ensued the amous litigation which raised the question o f th e validity o f shi p out money . When the Civil War brok e Hamp den raised and took command of a regiment o f Buckinghamshire militia and though h e was wounded at Chalgrove Field i n Oxfordshir e and e was th e c at di d at Thame , he buried in chur h e c omme mo Great Hampd n . A small monument e e one ma e rat s John Hampd n , and y still r ad in dim characte rs th e ins c ription on th e pl ain tablet which h e wrote in memory of his wife ; whil e in th e s e clusion of the upland fields and of the be ech woods which surro und his h ome we are still e th u e e constantly r e mind d of e patriot sq ir . A ft r his de ath at th e ir home among th e Chilte rn Hills e e e a his desc ndants liv d for many gen r tions . To the age of th e R e be llion and th e Common 48 H I STO RICAL CHARACTE RS

u W wealth belongs the judicious B lstrode hitelock , a Buckinghamshire man not only by reason of his posses sion of th e Manor of F awley and his r e presentation of be Great Marlow in Parliament , but cause on his ’ mother s side h e was conne cte d with the old county l th e Bulstrode s of H u e fami y of edgerley B lstrod . we e w e Coming to a later time me t ith William P nn, wh o rathe r by his d e ath than his life is identifi e d with t h e was was county , for it not until he a young man that his connection with the S ocie ty of F rie nds brought him to th e . e e he e G ulie lma S rin e tt th e Chalfonts H r court d p g , u e H e was w e stepda ght r of I saac Pennington . , ho ev r , e 16 2 w e e marri d ( 7 ) at Chorley ood on the bord rs of H rts , w e and lived for a time at R ickmans orth (H rts), but he is buri e d with his wife in the burial gro und of th e F riends e e e w at Jordans , thr miles from the villag hich bears e di e e w his nam . No rect evidenc conn cts him ith the e of as e e P nns Penn , but he believed that he w desc nd d for in w c w e from them , the scription hi h he rot on his ’ father s monument in the church of S t Mary R e d ffe e was cli at Bristol stat s that he one of them . In no long time after Pe nn then appe ars the Dutch W e th e man , illiam B ntinck , E arl of Portland , friend W wh o and minister of illiam I I I . , made for himself an E nglish home at Bulstrode . A mong the statesme n wh o in the 18th century are clos e ly assoc iated with the county the most famous is Burke ( 17 3 0 H e had no ancestral connec tion with B uckinghamshire and be came poss e ss e d of the of Be aconsfie ld e estate Gregories , close to , aft r his n e n for v 1 6 8 seco d lectio Wendo er in 7 . But through his e now e e w hom he is ins parably associat d ith the county . F or more than a quarter of a c e ntury ( 176 8- 1797 ) he f th e u obtained rom rural quiet , the country occ pa n w e n e n tio s , into hich he ter d with si gular zest , D 49 BUCKI NGHAM SHIRE u nbounded satisfaction and enjoyment , by the side o f which i t would seem any pecuniary em barrassme n ts arising from his landed property appeared trivial . From the pecu niary poin t o f view there can be no doubt that the purchase o f was v Gregories by B urk e a mistake . It invol ed him not only i n financial difli c ultie s at th e o f w was commencemen t his o n ership , i t also a o f constant burden . The history the transaction n ow was is clear, and there is in it nothing that of th e discreditabl e to Burke . The cost estate was and o f this su m was l eft o n was off mortgage and not paid at his death . was 2 0 0 0 The remainder paid in cash , £ being ’ Burke s o wn mon e y and £6 0 0 0 an ad va nc e from o f w the M arquis Rockingham , a loan hich he

- e o n e . canc lled his d ath bed It is evident , too, that ’ the cost of k eeping u p Burke s B uckinghamshir e prop e rty was largely defrayed by loans from the fo r w same nobleman , hen Lord Roc kingham died there was no l ess a sum du e to him from his friend than the notes of hand fo r ’ w we Roc kin h am s hich re, by Lord g directions , ’ W e f o f d estroyed . ithou t the aid , th re ore , the statesman wh o was the l eader of the group which was w n o w kno n as the Rockingham Whigs , it seems certain that Burke would n ever have b e en abl e to purchase o r to live at the place with But which his name is so inseparably connected . if of was f the purchase Gregories , rom the point of w w vie of monetary prudenc e , rong, it had ’ u e e e e n was nusual recompe nses . Burk s t mp ram t o ne which e n abled him to forge t troubl e and disre gard details which would have hara ss e d a 50 H I STO R I CAL CHA RACTE RS

H e e te th e e e careful mind . d ligh d in pl asur s of th e e u e his country life . F rom tim of its p rchas ’ t u e t e e was t h e e r e ill B rke s d a h , G r gori s m mo abl re o f t e e n and me n of sort s at sm , politicians , te r e e n e let s . A t Gr gori s , Johnso and the Thral s the e nd f e e e 1 wh e staye d at o S pt mb r 7 7 4 , n

e f e e s v w r turning rom th ir W l h tour , a isit hich “ was c e d w e only onclud , says Mrs Piozzi , h n th e ge ne ral e l e c tion brok e up th e d e lightful soci e t y in which we had spe nt some time at ” Be aconsfie ld. We m ust not e also a group o f mod e rn stat e s me n wh o are quit e inse parab l e from th e county —th e r u e d e thi d D k of P ortlan , his n ighbour G re nvrlle and r Be ac onsfie ld Th e e L ord Lo d . Duk of Portland was not a man eithe r by talent o r a e S e e e e t u ch ract r p cially int r sting to post ri y, tho gh h e had more ability than some of his c ontem orarie s e was e e e p admitt d . It rath r to good t mp r and u e e e a j dicious common s ns , add d to high r nk , that h e owed his position as h e ad of th e Co alition i n r 1 8 h u h is e e e M ist y of 7 3 , and t o gh in lif th r was a c onstant conne ction be tween Bulstrod e and e ste th e u e e W stmin r , D k passing much of his tim his u e we c e th e on B ckinghamshire state , asso iat place rather with the last ye ars of his more fa e e e th e w mous pr d c ssor , first Earl , than ith his th e e long political life . On oth r hand , L ord e e wh o u e 2 Gr nvill , p rchased Dropmor in 1 7 9 , is not only a considerabl e historical fig ure but e e o n th e a e e impr ss d his individuality pl c . Gr n e who e e e m vill , had b n a me mb r for Buc k s fro 1 8 was e e e e 1 0 f 7 4 till he cr at d a p r in 79 , and rom the following ye ar throughout a life o f much 51 BUCKI NGHA M SHIRE political activity he never fo r a moment t e lin uish e d q his Dropmore sympathies . When he purchased the property it was a piece o f waste to - o n e o f land , it is day the places in England best clothed with coni ferous trees and flowering shrubs . His restl ess and ambitious brother, the o f w ff Marquis Buckingham , ould break o in the middl e of a political l e tter to te ll him h ow he was forwarding him many th ousands of young trees ; and towards the end of his li fe Grenvill e wrote interesting l etters to Lord Grey o n c of his plantations . Pitt and most politi ians ’ importanc e in G re nville s time were visitors at w Dropmore , hich must continue to recall the memory of a statesman whose propinquity to his great cousin has somewhat dwarfed him in history . was old w The elder Disraeli an man hen , in 18 2 f f of in 9, a ter a li e literary labour and social w t e rc ourse at Bloomsbury , he ent to live in the charming seclusion of the Manor House at w was e Bradenham , hich his hom till his death in 18 8 o f 4 , and it is as the beginning Benjamin ’ Dis raeli s connection that Bradenham with its e ue u pictur sq s rroundings is most interesting . Lord Beac onsfie ld was throughout his life in timate l w was y associated ith the county . I t the of his u e 8 2 place earliest str ggl s in his career . In 1 3 h e stood twice unsucc e ssfully for th e borough of 18 h e e e e e High Wycombe . In 3 7 succ ded in nt r of th e r for ing Parliament as one membe s Maidstone . But whe n his parliamentary position was assured h e e again turned his eyes to his hom county , and , 18 two h e o in 47 , years before succeeded L rd 52 H I STO R I CA L CHARA CTE RS

G e orge B e ntinck as the l e ad e r of the c ountry was e one of the e e for party , elect d m mb rs u n m e Th e ue e e B cki gha shir . constit ncy , ss ntially u o ld- e e — th e agric ltural and fashion d , Disra li last man in the world o ne would have s uppos e d to be — acce ptable to this e l e ctorate r e pre sente d for eight and twe nty ye ars till his accession to th e peer a e in 18 e o f g 7 5, and during that tim many his most s triking spee ches were addressed to Buc kinghamshire audie nces at Aylesbury and

Slough . I t was in th e quiet churchyard of Hugh e nd e n that by his o wn de sire Disraeli was burie d and i n e e w we e not W stminster A bb y , here , ho v r muc h opinions may di ffe r of a Statesman whose t e a c hing certainly appe ars at present to be a stronge r influe n c e on his countryme n than that h e was e of any of his contemporaries , entitl d to w a monument and a tomb . Disraeli had kno n H ughe nden since his youth ; ne gotiations for its e e e 18 8 purchas last d for a long tim , but in 4 , after the of f e e th e w e death his ather , he b cam o n r of this now e e e o f w are famous estat . Disra li had non hat ’ e he call d the country gentleman s tastes , but had that fine sense which finds an enjoyme nt partly s ensuous and partly inte lle ctual in th e aspect o f the country , in its colour and its stillness , in its e old vari ty, and its spaciousness , in its buildings e e and its historic associations . A ll thes charact r istic s we re to be fo und within a fe w mile s of ’ e 3 Disra li home . F rom Burke to Hampden , from H ampde n to Wycliffe and from Wycliffe to th e r ount e th e Norman Barons , the y evidenc d for the sh e w e th e mation of Engli peopl , hil in 53 BUCKINGHAM SHI RE secl ud e d vall eys and among the im m e nse beech woods and on th e steep e scarpments o f the Chil terns one met with a d e lightful seri e s o f f 18 landscapes . Thus , rom 39 until his death , Buckinghamshire Occ upi e d the same kind o f place ’ o f i n Disraeli s life as i t did in that Burk e , and H ughenden was to hi m t h e same r e stful country home that Gregories was to the statesman to whom he is so remarkabl e a contrast . e M n o L tters — we e ( ) e f e . When turn to thos whose association with the county entitles them to be r e garded as bel onging to i t in the eyes o f r wh o e poste ity, and have achi ved a permanent o f e plac e i n the history English literatur , we o f w w e ln think at once El ood , hos — ge n uo us memorials Toe History of Tbomas — Elwood is one o f the most delightful personal e stories in the language . His mor formal and pol emical compositions have l ong ceased to be o f val ue , but his autobiography remains a charming of and simple delineation a fin e character, and a o f of t e descri ption phases political , social and li ious f 1 g li e in the 7th century, no l ess valuabl e than th e diaries o f P e pys and Evelyn and the letters o f Horace Wal pole . Looking back to an earlier age we may please ourselves with the thought that Hooker ( 1553 as he tended his sh e e pin th e bleak pastur e s between and the Chilt e rn was f w Hills , already contemplating his amous ork on . wh o for Ecclesiastical Polity Burke , so long founda h ome ma i n Buckinghamshire, y be ranked a e me n of mong statesm n and letters , and of him we e have alr ady spoken . But the main import 54

BUCK INGHA M SH I RE

o f we e e w poplars Olney, presently m t ith Cowper ( 17 3 1 whose genius was so w suited to his surroundings , and , lastly, at Marlo , d th e o f ami st charming scenery the Thames , ’ we gain a glimpse o f a quiet space i n Shell ey s th e o f tumultuous career, days his summer o f 18 task 17 . Of these poets Gray and w th e no t Co per are undoubtedly most local , in w o r e e a narro popular s ns , but because their delicat e and sensitiv e natures were inevitably influenced by their surroundings , by the charac ter o f the locality and by the p e opl e w e among whom they lived . Gray ould n ver have written his Elegy if he had not fe l t the o f we associations Stoke church , of its grey to r, w e i ts ancient elms , and its pensive beauty, hil the reflections of many musing walks along the hill sides which overlook the vall ey o f the Thames and on the commons o f Stok e and Farnham are coll ected i n the Ode on tlse D i stant Pr ospect o Eton C olle e for f g , ever uniting Eton and the woodland lanes of Buckinghamshire with

Gray . e was no t f Ther a natural eature around Olney , w f wh o not a person hom he met day a ter day, did not insensibly influence the mind o f Cowper . H e was inspired by, and i n his poetry pictures , w fe ith astonishing fidelity, the scenery and the li o f of w th e Olney and Weston Under ood , yet of considerabl e volume his verse, the applicability of his descriptions to many parts of England for the scenery of the valley of the Ouse is some — what that o f all meadow valleys has made him appear l ess local than Gray . 56 M EN OF L ETTE RS

w e w e Milton , ith his broad g nius , ould hav written L ycidas wh e th e r he were in a country r w hamlet o a busy to n . Wall e r liv e d a great d e al at Beac o nsfie ld during w many years , but the charming poem hich begins

G o o ve R ose , l ly , Te h e r a as e s h e r me an d me ll th t w t ti , T a n ow sh e kn o s h t w , %V e n I e se m e h e r to e e h r bl th , w a d fan h m t e H o sw ee t n s e see s o h .

might j ust as we ll have be e n thought o f at St

Germains as among the Buckinghamshire uplands . ’ N o t a single lin e of Wall er s poetry shows t h e slightest sign o f resul ting from lifelong surround ’ n I n R evolt o Islam e e i gs . Shelley s f ther is littl to — remind us of the plac e s where it was writte n the tranquil re ach e s of th e Thame s and th e pleasant — shades of th e Q uarry woods ex cept from time to e e of th e e tim some sugg stion summer life on riv r , as when th e sunbe ams chase the shadows over the me adows and the poplars flutter in the seclude d ac w e and w be b k at rs . Gray Co per alone must c u e e his e the two ac o nt d , ach in s parate manner , e o f c w e ma po ts Bu kinghamshire , and ith th m it y we n ll be co tent . In the Victorian Age Buckinghamshire is closely associated with th e life and work o f — Grote ( 1794 He began to live for o f — at in 18 8 part the year East Burnham 3 , and it was her e that his History of Greece was w u was largely ritten . His ho se near Farnham 57 BUCKI NGHAM SH I RE

he r r e c a H R oyal , and app op iat ly lled it istory Hut . 18 1 u o ut o f th e e e But in 5 he b ilt , proc ds of his

a u e . H e re h e e l 18 history, a sm ll ho s liv d ti l 57 , whe n it was sold and enlarge d ; it is no w c all e d u E ast B rnham Park . DESCRIPTI ON OF PLACES I N BUCKING HAMSH I RE ARRANGED A L PHA CA L L Y BET I .

The follo wmg abbre viati on s are use d in sp e ak ing o f archi ' te c tural s e s 1n e ar to c th e divrsrons in Pa ke r s tyl , r g d whi h r I ntr oduct ion to Gotlrzc A r clz itecture h ave b ee n foll o we d = — O N N orman i n c l udi ng th e e arl y an d l ate peri o d s A . - = w r 10 0 1 1 E E. Ea En i s th e s 2 e a s o f h c h 5 7 5. . rly gl h , fir t 5 y r - man A . D 1 1 12 2 n c u e th e c an e o f s e f om th e N or . . i l d h g tyl r , 7 5 7 = - = D De c orate d A 1) 12 2 1 P Pe r e n dicular A . O . , 7 3 7 7 . p , 1 - 1 Th e s n 0 af e a c u c s o s a in 3 7 7 547 . ig ( ) t r h r h h w th t 1 - w s a e The s ance s f om the 90 2 3 it a h abitu lly k pt ope n . di t r ’ a th e ne w G e a Vv ste rn ne to O xfo n ow st ti on s on r t e li rd ,

1 0 e n u are ve n . ( 9 3) b i g b ilt , gi

Addin ton e Edinton e - w g (Dom sday, ) Winslo V and m. f erney Junction , 3 3 ; footpath rom

e e . V rn y Junction , m Practically consists of t h e fe w church , the Manor House and a w o n e cottages . The chief manor, hich at time passed through such we ll - known Buckingham f R ome n e ls th e M ol ns shire amilies as the and y , 16 e o f th e in 3 5 cam into the possession Busbys , w f 18 12 in hose amily it remained till . Addington now o f Manor is the property Lord Addington . The first baron of that ti tle was so created in 8 old 1 87 . The Manor House long ago dis e was app ared , and the present house built in 18 f w - w 57 rom a design by the ell kno n architect , w c Hard i k . 59 BUCKINGHAM SHI RE

— The c hur c h partly re b rrilt 1858 has c e 2 e and we e hanc l , nave , aisl s , S . porch , a st rn we but e e of th e r to r , ther is littl o iginal building now e Th e a u d l ft situation , lmost in the gro n s

a u . the of A ddington M nor , is delightf l Note old stock s inside th e privat e grounds of the Manor c los e to th e urc o f th e e 1 1 ch h . A copy Prim r of 54 found in th e c h urc h is no w k e pt at th e rectory e adjoining th church . Adstocé 2 — ( Station , This is a an c e th e r ther attra tiv village to the N . of road w e e are e from Winslo to Padbury . Th r som picturesq ue thatche d cottage s not far from th e c w a e u hurch , hich is a ch rming littl b ilding , Th e w we e . . ith W . to r , nave and chanc l S w 12 th - e w of door ay has good c ntury ork , and is e e of e simpl e but e ffe ctive d sign . Not work sam on w a the 1 - we period N . door ay , lso 5th century to r e e a w th e arch . The mod rn corb l he ds , on hich e th e t e sts are we inn r portion of chancel arch , ll e e e th e . oak e e th e x cut d , S have l av s and acorns , e e e Th e w w of N . vin leav s and grap s . P . indo s th e e . nave are striking , but the tracery rath r clumsy e 1 the w w Not also ( ) P . font , hich is octagonal ith — a rose on e ach pa ne l the bas e is heavy ; ( 2 ) the e of th e u w c h e e e op n panels p lpit , into hi h av b n i nse rted the re mains o f the an c i e nt rood scre e n ; ( 3) the date 1597 cut into cross beam above the w w . E . indo the w t he da On S . porch is a sundial , ith te 1 8 1 5 . l ele u m — a A 2 . y ( B ckingham , 3 ) ( Domesd y, — A ch e lai) is a fair - size d vill age ple asantly situate d of a w w N E almost on the top hill , ith good vie s to . 6 0 —AM E RSHA M

u e e with the ch rch in the c ntre . This is quit a

e w e w and . larg building , ith chanc l , nave , to er S

was 18 . porch . It rebuilt in 54 m r am t C C A monde A e sb Me . w ( and . . Rail ay), g — sham as it was called L e yland ( 153 3) wrote of it as H agmonde sham alias H ome rsh am r w is a typical small rural bo ough , of hich th e re are several on the southe rn slopes of the e 16 2 Chilt rn Hills . F rom 4 to the Reform A ct of 183 2 this little town re g ularly re turne d t wo e e e m mb rs to Parliam nt , among whom may e e 16 2 - 0 - 1 be not d E dmund Wall r , 7 4 4 , and e e 16 6 was f m th e e Alg rnon Sidn y, 5 . I t ro b gin ning of the 181h century wholly in th e pock e ts th e e a 1 0 we e of Drak f mily, and in 7 5 there r e 1 0 e not e only som 3 vot rs . Time has chang d e e e Am rsham . There is still one long str t w w e e through hich a broad high ay passes , bord r d by sobe r re d brick house s of the 1 7 th and 18th - u of centuries , and quaint gabled b ildings e e a e th e n an arli r g . At S . or L o don end th e e u e is Mark t Hall , b ilt by Sir William Drak 16 8 2 w in , on hich are his arms . The Grammar w 16 2 e S chool endo ed in 4 by D r Chalm rs , f s e a o wa . Canon Windsor , on E sid of m in stree t : a ne w building has lately be e n ere ct e d the w Th e e 16 outside to n . almshous s built in 57 e th e e of are inter sting . On W . sid the main e th e e nd ou e u stre t , at Aylesbury , y ent r thro gh a low archway opposite some pollard e d tre e s into a small quadrangle round which the lo w e the r th e six buildings are group d , si x doo s for w — e u e e poor idows a little harbour of r f g , v ry sug 6 1 BUCKI NGHAM SH I RE

e stive e g both socially and archit cturally . Amer sham was in fact at once a rural and urban sommunity among the pleasant meadows i n the M isbo urn e valley with beech woods extending all over the adjoining hills . o f The churc h St Mary, a large flint building, w ith nave , aisles, small transepts , chancels , and large monumental room of t h e Drak e family

e . w enter d through N door i n chancel , is ith o ut architectural i nterest . There are a number

f . o f e c e e A . monum nts , in luding three r li s by R e e e e Bacon , mark d by grace and f ling , to W . Drak e 1 6 e e 18 10 th e di d 7 9 , to T . T . Drak di d , and to 6 18 1 . Rev . C . T . Drak e died They are i n vivid contrast to the Jacob e an and Georgian e w w are monum nts , hich are ithout any beauty but vigorous and realistic . Note i n chancel the

Curwe n 16 6 on . w monument 3 , N all , and the e fli ie s of Brude n e ll Aliano ra brass g Henry and , his w f 1 0 th e w i e , 43 ; on S . all the Bent monument , 1 6 to 7 3 , and the stri king littl e brass John Drak e, 16 2 cfli 3 . Ben eath this gy and inscription are these q uaint lin es

’ H ad h e e Iiv d to be a man

T s n c h ad o n but t o a s an hi i h gr w p , N o w is h e e past all fe are o f p ain e ’ T e nn t h e in w re si o wi sh im h e re aga e . h Ve we but th e way by wC we e c ome ’ ’ ’ T o sa ee s e s a s s at ome h w l y h b t th t fir t h .

r e are e On the no th wall of N . aisl monum ntal e de e 1 E e brass s to John la Penn , 537 , and lizab th , w e 1 2 e his if , 5 1, also to Thomas Carbon l and e w e 1 8 1 o n th e E lizab th , his if , 4 3 and 4 39, and 6 2

ASCOTT—ASTON AB BOT S

w of e e e f o f W . all sam aisl the brass figy a c e 1 0 . ivilian (h ad lost), 4 5 Th e wh o are e a e Drakes , so often comm mor t d in the c u o wn th e ro ert and u ofShardo h rch, still p p y ho se l e w e th e e e o s , hich is strikingly plac d on hillsid , a littl N W f r h am J n th e d u e the o A me s . oa e to . . , eld st a ght r e e f To tlrill o f Shardoloe s e e and h ir ss o W . ( ld st by th e wa o f - e e e y thirty thr children), marri d , about 16 0 c e of Esh e r was t h e e 5, F ran s Drake . This b gin n f f e ing o the B uckinghamshi re family o th e Drak s . A scott see ( Wing) . bendo IV I As n a ( L . ( W tton . and } m ) is o n o ne of th e high e st points whi c h ris e out of th e e Val of Aylesbury . The church is at the th e f th e e c e are summit , roo s of thatch d ottag s u e e u S e e cl st r d ro nd and be low it to th e . ; on v ry side is a wid e prospe ct of rich and pl e asant country h e t land . T ch urch has be e n untouch e d by h e e re o ld e w e a w w e u r sto r , p s r m in hich , ho ev r gly, e n us th e 18 e n u a e r mi d of th c t ry . It has a ch nc l , e l e . ow we . e e nav , S aisl and W . to r Not a block d

2 th - ce u e E E 1 wa . . nt ry door y , and a singl light w w e D e w and w c w . indo , also som . indo s , on N all ’ o f th e th e ff l urbe c k chancel , e igy , in marble , of a u u e knight in chain armo r nd r a Dec . canopy . A sble Gr een an e c a a u y is c lesi stical p rish , abo t 3 m . N E f e a . . o w e . as Ch sh m , ith a mod rn church It w e 186 e Farnr e t he form d in 9. Grov , about a mil to

. c w was a S . E of this hurch , has a barn hich origin lly a me diaer al domestic building d e fe nd e d by a wall e and doubl moat . A ston Abbots A e m — e a ( yl sbury, 5 . ) D om sd y, Estone s the e e e n e f , s cond nam b i g add d rom its h aving be e n th e propert y of the A bbe y of S t 03 BUCKI NGHAM SHI RE

a e s Albans for sever l hundr d years , is a mall e th e e villag half a mile to W . of the Ayl sbury e Th e 0 was and L ighton Road . church ( ) e 186 -6 6 w e 1 r stored in 5 . The to er , lat 5th e v c ntury, is noticeable , ha ing a large square e turret at S . E . angl . Aston Clinton u m We n ve ( Aylesb ry , 33 . , do r , W e S . 3% m . ) is an important villag . . of one it is A ston Clinton House , of the nume rous posse ssions of the Rothschild family t e the in his district , on the sit of old u Manor Ho se . The church is a large building u w in a spacio s churchyard , hich is attractive its e e from sh lt ring fringe of fine elms . The D e c a e lofty . ch ncel is the b st feature in the w t o e church , hich has also w aisl s and

w . se are W . to er . The Dec dilia remark th e w ably ornate , as is piscina in N . all , with two fi gure s at each of the upper corners . Th e pillars betwe en nave and aisles are e alternately round d and octagonal , but this part of the building is spoilt by the numbe r and want of harmony in the windows of the

S . aisle . ' Aston Sana ord G C f (Haddenham . . and 1 is -of- -wa v the m . ) a small out the y illage in s e e meadow of the Tham vall y to the S . of w Haddenham . I t has only a small church ( ith w se a chancel , nave and bell turret) hich ems to have been re built in the 13th c e ntury . The place obtained its second name from he f f wh o t amily of Sand ord , possessed the Manor at the e nd of the 12 th century .

Astwood w . (Ne port Pagnell , 53 m ) is the 6 4 A STON CLI NTON— AYLE SBU RY

in most easterly village of the county . I t lies a e w e mix d agricultural district , and is ithout int rest . 0 n e The restored church ( ) has chancel , ave, S . aisl and

we . e 1n e W . to r The details are mix d charact r , of e rs various periods and not not worthy . The font E . w w . E . ith a plain bo l supported on four circular shafts 111 Chivnale Note brasses S . aisle , E . end , Thomas w 1 and his first and second ife , 53

A lesbur . E l e sb ur . . y y (A . S g g), (G W Rail w wa . . . y, L . N W and M et Rail ay), is an w was o n e of ancient to n , and the strongest British fortresses which fel l to the Saxons in 1 57 . At a later date it becam e famous through w w its connection ith three holy omen , St Editha Edbur and St g, daughters of a M ercian princ e , O sith of and their niece St . At the tim e the Domesday survey the manor of Ale sb e rie w 12 0 belonged to the Cro n , but , i n 4, Ki ng John of — granted it to Fitz Piers , Earl Essex later i t we B otel ers f nt to the , and by emal e descent came of wh o to Thomas Bullen , father Ann e Bol eyn , K - - Sir oh n w n t . w in law sold it to J Bald in , , hose son , 1 Robert Pac kington , came into possession in 545, and his descendants continu ed to hold it till 180 2 Pac kin tons . The g sold the manor to the of wh o 18 8 Marquis Buckingham , held it till 4 . Duri ng the ci vil wars the town became a parlia was for mentary stronghold, and a time the o f x headquarters Esse , and more than one vain was attempt made by the Royalists to seize it . The town stands on a slight eminenc e in the w rich val e hich bears the same name, and spreads f o ut f old itsel rom an market square, the S . side of which 1s formed by th e County Hall and N ew E 6 5 BUCKI NGHAM SH I RE

O ne t wo old u Corn E x change . or ho ses may be e e e s en her or there , such as thos facing the church to the S . The church of S t Mary (0) is built partly on the of an e fine site anci nt , probably Saxon , church . It is a u e of th e 1 u was cr ciform structur 5th cent ry, and e 18 0 e complet ly restored in 5 by Sir Gilb rt S cott . th e u e E E On whole it m st be regarded chi fly as . . in E E r e th e e e fine we . cha acter . Not on xt rior the st . w E E e door ay , in the S . porch the . . arcad s , and

w . e e the P . door ay to S trans pt . The int rior, which has all the spacious but rathe r cold characte r E E e of e of . . architectur , is full archit ctural interest, and pre s e nts a di ffere nt appe aranc e to what it must e e e for d n the have born b fore its r storation , uri g Commonwealth arche s we re block e d up and othe r u e e acts of disfig re ment p rpetrated . The chanc l w e E E w fe w e w w . ( ith mod rn tripl t indo ) is . ith a as are e w w e later additions , also the arch s , ith at r rims e - e to bas s and dog tooth ornament on E . sid of S . e u f of e we trans pt , the beautif l tri orium c ntral to r , the w . arch , niche and piscina on E . all of N e e e th e n trans pt (at pr sent used as a v stry), arcadi g he e e w w . t in nav and one indo in S aisle . In chap l s e t o 1 h - e ff of N . ai l are w 3 t c ntury stone co ins D e e c . in a doubl . niche and a piscina on E e u f N the wall . A b a ti ul font ( . ) stands in south The 1 th e e e e aisle . north vestry ( 5 c ntury) is nt r d e o n one o f the from the N . trans pt , and original doors is still to be se e n a remarkabl e . lock turned by a winch key ; above this is a u e small room with a curio s old fir place . e L e e w Th e monum nt to L ady , ife of Sir h e e e L e e 1 8 t . H nry , 5 4 , in N trans pt is a fine 66 AY LESBU RY— BARTON HA RTSHO RN

L e e de exampl e of E lizabe than sculpture . Lady is i t d e e h e r p c e kn ling , behind is a girl in the same e t wo w h the attitud , infants in s addling clot es lie near , inscription d e scribing her virtues and life shows h o w ge ne ral had be come th e heroic and archaic verse e e e w Faerie ueen which w gen rally associat ith the Q . This monument was brought from th e drsused uare ndo n e church at Q ; n ar it , in a recess , is an ff re al abaster e igy of a knight in a coat of mail , ’ e f th e n move d from the sit o Grey Friars Mo astery . e e e a th e The Pr b ndal Hous st nds to the W . of c was for e t the chur hyard . It som ime property of John Wil k e s ( 17 2 7 - 17 97) through his w e w e marriage ith Mary M ad , hose fath r , a we of was w e althy tradesman L ondon, its o n r . Th e marriage was an unhappy o ne for Mrs was e me m Wilkes , but through it Wilkes lected be r 1 for the borough in 757 . L ord Westbury,

e s M . P wa . then Mr Beth ll , at one time for u 1 6 0 1 was 1 . Aylesb ry , as John L yly in 593 and ’ Th e King s Head Hote l contains a fine 1 5th e u c nt ry room . The County Museum in Church e Str et is worth a visit . The haml e t of Walton is now a suburb of w - e the to n S . of the market plac , and has a small e u mod rn ch rch . e A the e e e N ar ylesbury, first Point to Point St pl e ia was 18 Wadde s chas England run in 3 5, from don Windmill to a fi e ld j ust below Ayl e sbury ’ se e w e B cbaes o church . F or a description F o l r s f Old C ountr i e y L f .

a /1 i e » B r ton H a rts 0m nm re n 1 . ( F Statio , 3 m ) is a me re haml e t on the borde rs of the county e x e lo - n a clos to O fordshir among w lyi g p sture s . 6 7 BUCKI NGHAM SHI RE

The church is small and unimpo rtant ; most s e part are mod rn . B eacba m ton r p (Wolve ton , L ondon and North — e e w m. e W st rn Rail ay , 4 ) Domesday , Bech n — th e N W stone lies close to the Ouse on . . border the n a e a as the of cou ty . The vill g is sm ll , is

e e . church , a good deal r stor d — Th e monume nt to Sir Simon B e ne tt the bust — of a man in a wig and lace cravat wh o di e d in 16 1 was e 12 8 3 , oddly nough not erected until

e e d . Th e w w y ars aft r his eath glass in the E . indo e e e is a m morial of S amu l Wilberforc , Bishop of f O x ord (d . A r e e a b ass in N . aisle comm morat s e li m Bawd n 16 0 0 ne e o . y (blacksmith), , and in S aisl , e w 16 1 1 A l s Bald yn , . e now B achampton Hall , the Hall Farm , stands the e u was ulle d w close to Ous , but m ch of it p do n the t e e e a in 18 h c ntury . A mong oth r d t ils an oak e e n u a w e pan ll d ba q eting h ll , hich is r ached by a fi ne e e the carv d oak staircase , still r mains , and in w w e o ld a e indo s is som st in d glass . B e s eld W and O R I acon G G . . fi ( . . . Station , m — This large village is striking from th e spacious of e e e th e ness its stre ts , sp cially main street , which is formed by the L ondon and O xford h igh u e road . Its sit ation on the top of a high tabl land a e e r Beac o nsfie ld re re dds to its bre zy charact . p

- 18 e . t h e . e c e sents an th century villag At S ntran , V the are e V rlton on L ondon road , the gat s of w e e the of Park , hich xt nds for gm . along side the road . Th e th e e of a church in centr the vill ge , is a - e e e e w h large , flint cov r d , unint r sting building, hic 68

BEACHAM PTO N— BEACO NSFI ELD was completely restore d in 1869. Inte rnally it has e u no details worthy of notic , tho gh the chancel w e E E . . arch indicat s an . . origin On the S all is a a e e in e of simple oval m rbl tabl t m mory Burke , his

- wife and his much love d son Richard . The simplicity and historic value of this h omely monument has be e n e w we - n e u e som hat disturbed by a ll inte tion d , but q it u e 18 8 th e incongruo s , memorial erect d in 9 . In c e ntral aisl e of the nave is a fine brass containing th e e of of White s his w and figur s John Warren Farm , ife childre n an interesting exampl e of 17th c u w e e w ent ry brass ork . A fine incis d ston , ith the u e of w e to fig r s a man and a oman , a monum nt Thomas Wall e r and his wife D orothy has e th e be e n almost entirely cov re d by organ .

th e w a 1 - e c e th e A gainst N . all st nds a 7th c ntury h st , of w the w panels hich contain paintings , and in N . all of e e e — 1 h the chanc l is a rec ss d altar tomb 5t century . th e w a e e o f On N . all is a t bl t in m mory e L e e 1 2 w u Rob rt , Gentleman , 57 , ith some q aint e w and pl asing lines , of hich the beginning runs

L e t n o n cause th e a e t o u a e thi g h rt q ll , L au nch e out the Boo e au e u th e sa e t , h l pp ill Put from th e e art hly sh oore An d at th e l e ngth th ou sh alt obt aine U n o th e Po a s a t e ma ne ffor e ve mo e t rt th t h ll i r r . — The tomb of Edmund Waller ( 16 0 5- 16 87) see — th e c u Introduction , p . 55 is conspicuous in h rch e w e n ul yard und r a alnut tre . I t is si g arly ugly, and the exagge rat e d e ulogies which are e ngrave d on it are in mark e d contrast to the unadorne d marbl e ’ w was uffi e u e e e hich s ci nt for B rk . Wall r s hous , W f but S . o e Hall Barn, stands to the . the villag , is scar c e ly visibl e from the road ; the pre s e nt hous e 1 1 2 ( 7 ) stands on the site of that built by the poet . 69 BUCKI NGHAM SHI RE

e the e On the S . W . sid of church is the R ctory w was House (not the Rectory), hich restored

1 0 1. was u or 1 0 0 in 9 I t beg n in about 5 , and was 1 e e for completed in 54 3 . The hous serv d a - A u time as a sub priory to the gustinian A bbey , e 12 6 establish d in 6 at Burnham . I t is an ex ce lle nt e th e e e e exampl of archit ctur of its tim , e Th e and has three sides forming a quadrangl . e basement storey is construct d entirely of brick , w e e glazed ith chequered patt rns ; the upper stor y, w e of hich lofty gables and dorm rs break the roofs , is built of large timbers closely spaced and

e e w e the . plast r d bet e n . To N side is attached e w - the principal staircas , ithin a semi cylindrical — turre t of timbe r a curious and picture sque fe ature of e e the d sign . The amount of timber us d in the building is surprisi ng ; the floors we re f e s ormed of normous plank , and the step to the floors and of the stair of massive block s e e roughly shaped with the axe . Dark n d passages r e w - r w w are f am d ith solid tree t unks , hich ere e w also us d for partitions , here the builder of our day would consider thin boarding to be sufficient . ’ Th e e sit of Butler s Court or Gregories , once ’ e no Burke s hom , can longer be visited , for it now e e has been built ov r . Gregori s stood about a quarter of a mile from the road be tween Beacons w t th e e fie ld and the rail ay s ation, on l ft going from fie ld was w 18 1 a ons . Be c The house burnt do n in 3 . and Beaconsfie ld see A s to Burke , Introduction, P 49 B iddlesden » m (Brackley , O x fordshire , 33 . ; 6 th e Buckingham , m . ) is on Northamptonshire 70 BIDDL ESDEN — B I ERTON W N . was one border in the . of the county . I t at e f for was time a plac o importance , here a Ciste rcian Priory found e d in 1 14 7 by E rnald de 1 12 Basco . Remains of the Priory existed in 7 , was e a a but it d molished about fifteen ye rs l ter , and th e house of Biddle sde n Park stands on its s The now a ite . Gothic church , too , has lso dis and u Biddle sde n — u appeared , a b ilding in P ark b ilt in the 18th c e ntury and once used as a private — r chape l now s e v e s as a parish church . Bier on e u n t . ( Ayl sb ry , 13 m ) is a straggli g village ne arly half a mile long on eith er side of th e main road from A yl e sbury to L e ighton u e n ta e are B zzard . Among mod r bric k cot g s still to be found some picturesque old build

s. e th e ing Not especially a cottage near church , t c th e w e s anding ba k from road , ith a gard n Th e t th c in front . house nex t o e hurch h as s e s de ome pictur sque old gables on the S . i . The church of 14th century is cruciform e se e we having nav , chancel , tran pts and c ntral to r . Th e w w P e indo s are mostly poor . , but ther e two - D e c w w are som fair light . indo s in e a w e s and ither aisle . Intern lly , ho ev r, the ize of height the building is striking , the central tower be ing supported by four l ofty col umns f e - il e ac d by three half rounded p lars . The d tails be e are two rw most to not d the Dec . doo ays

the . e w e e in S trans pt , ith laborat cusps and finials , and the font , an excellent example of w l t wo w plain N . ork . There are a so ell e n h e e of pr served ic s on S . sid church , one n w havi g small columns . On the S . all of chance l is a small but e ffe ctive Jacobean monu 7 1 BUCKI NGHAM SHI RE me nt to Samuel Boss e d e picting t wo w e e e figures , a man and his if kne ling at a d sk , and below them six child ren in cots ; seven others e e are b hind th m . B ledlow e 1 e e w th e (villag , mil Bl dlo Station) is most western of th e village s which stand on th e th e e one o f th e northern spurs of Chilt rns , and most attractive . I t is charmingly place d just above the low- lying meadows which stre tch the e e across Tham Vall y to Haddenham . A e e e e larg , straggling villag shaded by lms ; b hind o f d it rises Wain Hill , the end it all woodlan , the rest bare down . A t the Domesday surve y Ble de lau (name u be n - e tho ght to A glo Saxon , m aning Bloody was e e e F ield or Hill ) Manor poss ss d by Rob rt , n th e e E arl of Morto , and in reign of H nry

was e e . Th e V I . grant d to Eton Colleg w e e t o e church ith nav , chanc l , w aisl s ,

we . and W . to r, is a most interesting building

E . w w E E . e re are The indo is . , and th e s oth r indication , such as the piscina , that show that th e chanc e l was built d uring the e e e tim that this style pr vail d . In the body of t D h e e c . w w one church are indo s , of four e e e Th e lights in S . wall is sp cially notic able . the e e n — w pillars of nav are inter sti g round , ith Th e good but rather roughly carved foliage . towe r s e e ms to be of same age as chanc e l . 3 w th e e e e Note N . font , ith cabl ornam nt ; abov w e e are this the bo l is larg , flut d , and at the head e re bold orname nts of l e ave s in mouldings . Th

t o e . Th e are w la rge niches in S . aisl screen is

e . fine mod rn . On the N side of chancel is a 7 2 BLEDLOW—

B A e 1 2 H e i . . brass to W lliam Hern , . , r ctor , 5 5 e e are is in full Eucharistic ve stments . Th r te e a f of in re sting r m ins o mural paintings , that St

e a e th e . Christoph r in N . isl is best B ledlow Rid e h e w u o n g is a aml t , ith a ch rch th e f th e d e summit o ri g . B letchle v e e n w y is a country illag , but is b st k o n as an important jun c tion o n the L ondon and

- 3 e w v . North W stern Rail ay, the illage being 4 m h e t and t . o f from the sta ion , church 3 m . to E - e we e t h e u nd e village . B t n ch rch a station li s Th e Bletchl e y Park . church stands on high u e e w two e s gro nd , and is of som siz , ith nave , aisl e e the N . aisl e xt nding whole length of the church — e w r P w a e chanc l and W . to e , . , ith pinn cl s and e Th e w . w turr t S . door ay has good Norman ork , e e are e e e t th e D e t and th r s v ral D ec . d ails . In Wil on N — e E. e e a c Chap l , . , is an alabast r monum nt re um — be nt e ffigy to Richard L ord Gre y de Wilton e o n w e e (di d and the N . all of chanc l notic th e e e e e w r markabl engrav d portrait on copp r , ith — c urious surroundings a sk e l e ton shove lli ng earth to e t — f e D 16 16 c o D. a grave , . Thos . Spark , . , . Bl e tchley Manor was owne d by Walter Giffard th e e of th e D e e in r ign William I I . and by Gr ys of e e of R oe sia e o f e Wilton , d sc ndants , sist r Walt r ff e of e th e Gi ard , s cond E arl Buckinghamshir , till e y ar 16 0 3 . B oar sta ll e m 1 2 (Tham , 7 . ; O xford , m . ) lies in th e hilly and wood e d district on the bord e r of f e e u O x ordshir . Boarstall is a pleasant x c rsion f 1 e rom Brill ( 3 m . E ) . The picturesqu and e w w e e now massiv gate ay ith mbattl d turrets , is th e e of only r mains Boarstall H ouse . B oarstall 73 BUCKINGHAM SHI RE or Borrestalle in ancient times lay within the of Be rnwood w important Forest , hich began near

Brill and extended into Oxfordshire . According to a l egend, picturesque enough in itself bu t w quite ithout foundation , the name is derived f f of one wh o w rom a eat forestry by Nigel , sle a famous boar and presented the h e ad to Edward w the Confessor . The name , ho ever, cl early comes from some local circu mstance ; possibly the w was B ur h stalle o f original ord g . The mansion 1 12 w Boarstall seems to have been built in 3 , hen Sir John de H andlo received the royal permission to fortify and embattl e his house— “ M uro de e t fir r t m ll old petra calce ma e e ke e are . An print depicts the place m 1695 surrounded on — three sides by a moat the ex i sting gateway i n f — w ront behind i t the house , i th formal gardens o n of and alleys either side , and in the rear all w w Th e the meado s , ith horses and cattle . present paved approach across the moat was made 1 w in 7 3 5, but the great gate ay enabl es us to picture for ourselves Boarstall i n days gone by . w Boarstall , being intermediate bet een Oxford and was o f Aylesbu ry, some importance during the

Civil War . Garrisoned by the Royalist forces was in the first instance , i t evacuated by them in 16 was 44. I t subsequently retaken by the n f Royalists u der Colonel Gage , and rom that time f l o th o f until it surrendered to Fair ax , on the Th e 16 6 was . Jun e 4 , it constantly besieged

of . remains B oarstal l House , at the E end of the village , still testify to its strength , and are the most suggestive relics of the great Civil War w . hich are l eft in Buckinghamshire The church, 74

— ' B RA D EN H A M C H U R C H S U L I H BOAR STALL—BRADE NHAM

18 18 A e e ntir e ly rebuilt in by Sir John ubr y, is u e witho t int rest . ou e End see B rn ( Wooburn) . B oo eney is a hamlet in the parish of B urn 1 2 th - ham , and has a small church of century e n origin with details of later dat , standi g among the h a n e lms near T ames . It has chancel and ave e e e e e and a b ll turr t . Not the colour d fragm nts of s e e s e u e alaba t r figur preserv d nd r glass .

B ra den/Jam 1 » is West Wycombe , 3 m . ) a VI ln unique littl e lage , secluded , charming and

. E in on N . t e rest g by associations . It is the of side the vall ey, a short distance from the main road which runs from High Wycombe to Prince ’s w Risborough , from hich a lan e l eads to an oval green . On the N . side old and picturesque t o cottages gi ve it a pleasant homely ai r . At the p, w separated only by the garden all , are the church and the M anor House ; behind are the beeches w and firs on the hillside , beyond hich extend the f h N a hill tur and heat er and fir trees of p Common . The short tower of the church is shaded by large

fir trees . At the edge of the green are stately stone w w pillars and old iron ork , hence a straight w al k leads up to the M anor House . The church w is quite a small building, ith nave , chancel , W .

. . w fin tower and S porch The S . door ay is a e

of l . w specimen ear y N ork . The outer arch rests on hal f round engaged shafts with rudely scul ptured capitals . There is a massive lintel rest o n one w ing a smaller , carved ith the cabl e orna two di ments , supported by small brackets rece ng two w to the jambs . There are note orthy mon u s one H on 16 8 ment , to the . Charles West 4) and 7 5 BUCKI NGHAM SH I RE

e see the other to Isaac Disra li ( Introduction , p . R e de b e rd Note also the brass to Richard , rector, 1 2 1 Brade n dam 5 . is so i ntimately associated with — the Disraelis with the last years of Isaac Disra e li f and the youth o Benjamin Disra e li . The Manor House was tenanted by Isaac Disraeli from 182 9 18 8 was until his death in 4 , and it on the pl easant common s and among the beechwoods o f the adjoining hills that in Benjamin Disraeli grew up the love of the coun ty of Buckinghamshire and o f w u the Chiltern Hills , hic h he retained thro gh who d o out his life . Those have En ymi n on their shel ves can perceive h ow deeply Bradenham ’ was Be aconsfie ld s for fixed in Lord memory , under the name o f H urstl e y he describes in the beginning of the el eventh chapter the home o f w his boyhood , hil e here and there in succeed ing pages one can note a sketch of some feature of o f the surrounding landscap e . The manor Brad e nham appears to have been the only manor i n Bucks which after the Conquest remained o f w e in the possession i ts Saxon o n r, and w was e S artl ey, as his name , must hav built the w o f original N . church , the remarkabl e door ay which has just been desc ribed . W B radwell S. of e is a parish olv rton , divided by the Ouse . The church (Wol verton E E e 2 was . S tation , m . ) originally . , having be n e e the 1 e h as found e d som tim in 3th c ntury . I t D e Th e u e o f c . w w fairly good indo s . pp r part we h as e w e - e a to r b en taken do n . Not nail h d w w ornament on E . indo . N B ra w ll w e u ne w ew d e , ith a mod rn ch rch , is a N E of we ecclesiastical district . . Brad ll , and 76

BUCKINGHAM SHI RE

e the 1 th e e chanc l of 3 c ntury. The arch s ofthe nave h e are e . ur t 16 all point d D ing Civil War, in 4 3 , e e we e e e e E ss x and the Parliam ntaryarmy r station d h r . L ittle B r icfbill e ( F nny Stratford , L ondon and N W w 2 e e Bo w . . Rail ay, m . ) com s n xt to Bric k

. I t e e hill is attractiv l y situat d , but has no particular e o f u of obj ct interest . The ch rch is various dates

1 - f and contains a small circular 3th century ont . The re are R oman re mains along the Watling Stree t road towards F enny Stratford . B r ll 2 m n a Me t i . o . , also station Br nch w 1 m —a e Rail ay, . ) village in a r markable position , c e th e 6 e ov ring flat summit of a high hill ( 94 f et). the u f Around , counties of B ckingham and Ox ord are e e are outstr tched , and to the S . the Chilt rn H ills w a outlined to the vie . This natural form tion e a a w xpl ins the import nce of Brill in the past , hile e - e e e it has mad it to day a mod st h alth r sort . No traces o f th e Royal Palace which onc e stood here can no w be se e n : it was the occa sioual re sid e nc e of E dward th e Confe ssor and th e u was Bernwood Norman kings . Sit ated as it in F orest it appears to have be en one of the i r u e u th e favo rit h nting boxes . At D omesday u Brunhe lle s rvey Brill ( ), including Boarstall , ’ Kings e y and R adnage is described as the King s a 1 1 was M nor . F rom 3 3 7 to 553 the Manor in the posse ssion of Sir John de Molyns and his e a the r d scend nts , Hungerfo ds and Hastings . At the n e e comme cem nt of the Civil War Charl s I . placed troops at Brill to prote ct O xford from the Parliamentary force s of Buckinghamshi re ; it was e u e f o f e vac at d a ter the fall R ading . It has e e e e ntir ly lost all its glory, and is a larg , dull villag 7 8 LITTL E BRICKHI LL—BUCKI NGHA M

The with scarcely any feature of special interest . 1 0 1 w u w church , restored in 9 , is a ide b ilding ith e ] u 1 12 0 two e chanc and nave built abo t , large aisl s l Th e u and o . w W tower . best feat res are the w th e 1 th Norman work in the N . door ay , and 7 e u of th e e c nt ry roof chanc l . h e S W e T e . Manor H ous at the . end of the villag , b e e e n y the road to Tham , is a pictur squ and otice a e in 16 e ble old house , remod lled late the th c ntury . li ton e 2 B r ou w . g (N port Pagnell , 3 m ) is a small village on the main road from to e e Th e w on N wport Pagn ll . church , hich stands h w e e w th e W igh ground , ith an ext nsive vi to . , is u are l a small b ilding . The detail s not particu arly

e e . t o e notic abl Within the church are w old d sk s , ’ to which are faste ned by chains Jewe l s A D efe nc e of of n n the Apologie the Church of E gland , A no , ’ ” e h e w and E rasmus s Comm ntary . T se ere c e 16 2 th e in pla d in the church in 3 . Note also t r s in f e e t . . w o e g paintings on N and S alls nav , the w Virgin ith Infant Christ , a Doom , St Helena e the and St G orge and Dragon . B rie fing/1am ( L ondon and North - W e stern R ail wa n th e u as th e y) gives its ame to co nty , and w made capital whe n th e kingdom was divide d into shire s by e 886 rt -two e e r King Alfr d in . Thi y years lat r w hea of E dmund the E lder lying with his army at Buck i ng u e ham d ring his advances against the Danes . A ft r the ff e of Conquest Walter Gi ard , creat d Earl Buck n 10 0 e i gham in 7 , poss ssed the manor, and members of this family continue d th e paramount lordship till e a e e of w H nry VI I I . seize d it fter the x cution Ed ard ff e mof Sta ord , the last Duk of Buckingha this family . In this same r e ign th e assize s were remove d to r w e Aylesbu y , and the to n sank into unimportanc . 79 BUCK INGHA M SH I RE

D uring the Civil Wars th e Corporation took th e e w was e R oyalist sid , but the to n n ver garrisoned , and sh e ltered Royalists and Parliame ntarians alter nate l . 1 2 fire e w y In 7 5 a d stroyed much of the to n . A t the pres ent time Buckingham is chi e fly in te re sting as a good exampl e of the county town of th e e and e of a e u for thirti s fifti s l st c nt ry , it do e s e e and e a not incr as in size , it r mains in appear nce th e a e e e a e e s m from decad to d c d , and to some xte nt its prospe rity rises or falls with the proprietorship e e are old of Stowe . Th r various houses such as e e e th e e u Castle Hous in W st Str et , but Mark t Sq are ” n “ and the old Bull Ri g are the best bits . Th e on church , finely placed a height at the W . end w of the to n , is a tiresome, heavy modern Gothic 1 - 8 1 if building of the year 7 7 7 , and it be con traste d with some of the fin e Gothic churches i n the villages it is curious to observe the differ ence in the resul t o f tr e atment in the me diaaval ffi and the modern church , di cul t to describe but very perceptibl e . ’ The St John s , founded by

w . Ed ard VI , is still in existence under modern conditions , though the building has been altered . w w was Note a good N . door ay, hich once part o f 12 a chantry founded in the th century, and subsequently absorbed in the school . d B uck/an m. (Ayl esbury, 3% ; Wendover, 3% lo w- m . ) is a prosperous village in the lying o f fields close to the northern limit the Chilterns , w and forms , ith Drayton Beauchamp and Aston o f Clinton , a closely connected group villages . w o f The church , hich is i n the centre the village , has been much restored . The nave is separated by 80

BUCKLAND— BU LSTR ODE PARK

e with n o n N . circular pi rs , octago al capitals , from Th Th e w 1s . e c s e . an ai l . to er arch E E best ar hi u al e the w e e w te ct r d tail is S . door ay (r stor d), hich we n e e e n has a flo r or am nt , and a dripston t rmi ating me drae al e n w t o v . in w h ads The font is Norma , ith e n th e fine w flut e d ornam nt o bowl , and is a ork . ’ B ulstr ode Par k has one gate on G e rrard s Cross see e o n f Common ( ), anoth r the Ox ord road , e e Th e and a third on the Hedg rl y road . park o f about 800 acres slopes in a semi - circl e f w o n o f rom the house , hich stands the site a e was much old r building, and built by the Duke 186 2 e o f Somerset in . This property b longed Bulstrode s was w to the , then it o n ed by Judge 6 86 ff wh o 1 . Je reys , rebuilt the house in ’ was to I II s It subsequ ently sold William . f o f avourite minister, William Bentinck , first Earl

- wh o Portland , constantly lived here from the ti me of his retirement from active political life to his h 1 0 o f deat in 7 9. In the days the second duke , o f Bulstrode became, u nder the rul e the Duchess e (Lady Margaret Cavendish Harl ey), a social c ntre we o f b e autiful as ll as a store house things . Here was the rare Portland o r Barberini vase whi c h is “ ” now th e i n British M useum . Bulstrode, w 1 1 rote M rs Montagu in 7 4 , is the most c saw o f charming pla e I ever . In the time th e third Du ke o f Portland ( 17 3 8- 180 9) it h e came an important political mansion . Statesmen d e an . politicians gath red here First , the Rock of wh t h e d e ingham Whigs , ich party thir duk was an important memb e r ; and then the fri ends o f th e c uri ous Coalition Ministry ( 17 83) o f Fox o f w t h e e was and North , hich Duk the nominal F 8 1 BUCKINGHAM SH I RE

w e e R e vo lu head and , nex t, Tories , h n the Fr nch t e the h e e e the ion brok W ig party, mor specially aft r ’ e e of 1 Duke b cam one Pitt s administration m 7 94 , m the o f e 180 - 180 and last years his lif , from 7 9, w e n e th e o f u L e h , aft r fall his neighbo r ord Gr n ’ e m h e e e e e vill s govern ent , again b cam Prim Minist r , commencing that s e ri e s of Tory administrations which was not brok e n till L ord Gr e y came into e e th e e f of 18 2 offic and carri d R orm Bill 3 . Th e property passe d by purchase in 18 14 to th e e o f e se se e Duk Som r t , and sub qu ntly on his e 188 e d ath , in 5, to Sir John Ramsd n . A n e e important plat au camp, oval in shap and e 2 2 c be e e o f th e r cov ring a res , is to s n in S . E . pa k . B ur n/J m m u a e e e 1 w . a 1 . (Taplo , 3 ; B rnh m B ch s , m ) is a large village on the e dge o f th e Thames valle y ; e e r e e e a or the gr at part of it , mor sp ci lly the upper In the we th e N E. . . part, is modern lo r part of main stre et are some old buildings of probably th e 16 th u e w th e cent ry , and in the stre t hich runs from it to E e nd are e e for e . ofthe church s veral oth rs , the anci nt the a e was e u part of vill g group d abo t the church . Thi s (0) is o ne of the large st flint c hurch e s in the nt and a e two c a e cou y, has a n v , aisles , h nc l and north E e n of e Th w we d . e transept , ith a to r at . S . aisl a e u e th e e w w most import nt f at r s are larg D . indo s — w w five th e w d the . w E indo having lights , W . in o w e o f ce e e has flo ing trac r y rather noti abl d sign , w n w th e e ia while the i do in N . trans pt is an f e D n he e e e e o . u o t r structiv sp cim n lat , j st v ge P t he u o f transition to . , straight m llions running right to the he ad of the window give it th e stiff he e of th e ness o f t later style . The N . arch s

re e h . e nave a Norman , a rud arc at E end of S . aisl 82

BUCKI NGHAM SHI RE

‘ e e b e th e S . of the e s sit of th a y is 31m . to villag acros the o n the - th e Bath Road , right hand side of road to h e Dorne y . T e re mains ar now built up with farm — but ve E E e w buildings se ral . . d tails , door ays and w w be e e th e - e indo s , can s en . Not Chapter Hous doorway and th e re markabl e wall with tile d coping whi c h surrounds the fi e ld which adjoins th e house . Burnham is a convenie nt point from which to

. w th e explore the B eeches Follo right or E . road at the to p o f the main street avoiding the first se c o nd whic h turn to the l eft , but taking the , l eads ’

. e nd o f e to the S the Lord M ayor s Driv . East B ur n/6a m is a straggling collection o f

. o f houses on the E side Burnham Beeches .

see . Grote , the historian ( Introduction , p 57) e t e onc lived a East Burnham H ous . Mrs Grote gives a description o f East Burnham in h e r C ollected Pa er s p (London M urray, B ur nbam B eecbes (to th e cottage and farm ’ o f m . w . at S end Lord M ayor s Drive , Taplo , 4 , 1 i 2 . Slo u l and Burnham B eeches Station 2 m g 3 mil e s - stric tl s eak 4 ,f ) Burnham Beeches form , y p o f w rn w ing, a piec e oodland hich are comprised the uni que old trees which are the historic beeches . Popularly it consists not only o f the beec hes and o f w o f oodland but the adjoining commons , and may be said to be the area of ground purchased by the Corporation o f the City of London in

1880 now . , and dedicated to the public use w The beeches gro on undulating ground, having

u . o n the E . East B rnham Common They can b e reached from any o f th e be fore -mentioned I f f w for stations . coming rom Taplo make see if a e e a n Burnham ( ), from Burnh m B ches St tio 84

BUCKI NGHAM SHI RE

of w o f r un none hich are any credibility . Fo qu e stionably these trees were pollarded to supply o f f e Th e o f f crops u l . history the English orests shows the val ue which was attached to the fu el from the forests both by lords and adjoining in Th e as habitants . beech w seldom pollarded ; it was w w to f e e allo ed to gro a lo ty and shap ly tre , w w - w of and then cut holly do n , the beech oods e Buc ks being cropped at r gular intervals . It is e f s certain , ther ore , that some time in their exi t ence the tr e es must have been pollarded by an w e w e individual o n r, hos successors must have w to allo ed them remain in the same state, lopping - O f th e ir n e w grown limbs from time to time . w e their age nothing can b e said ith c rtainty . For years they have been in a state o f ve ry slow o f w decay . In the ordinary course natural gro th the tre e s could hardly have reached their full size of under a couple centuries , but it is long since so im ro they attain ed their prime , that it is not p babl e that th ey were saplings not many years f a ter the Conquest . Wh e n Gray used to wander among th e m th e y ff f to - probably di ered little rom their state day, fo r writing to Horac e Walpol e in 17 37 he t e lls h ow val e and hill are cov e r e d with most vener — e e e abl e beeches that , lik most other anci nt peopl are always dreaming out their old stori es to th e ” winds . The N ; part o f th e Beeches beyond Victoria e w w and Halse Drives is chi fly young oodland, ith old a an occasional pollarded beech , and forms secluded and delightful rambling ground .

C alverton . (Wolverton Station , 3 m ) is on 86 B U RN H A M B EEC H ES

BUCK I NGHA M SHI R E

’ me for e c a e Milton s ho som months . Milton m to to e th e ue in Chalfont scape plag L ondon , and “ ” oc c upie d a pre tty box whi c h El wood obtaine d fo r him from the J uly 16 6 5 till the followi ng spring . Milton must have known th e Chal font s n e e e o f the a ue H e e lo g b for the y ar pl g . liv d in e a rly manhood for s e ve ral ye ars at Horto n ’ se w e L Alle r o h e a e th e ( e), and h n in g t k s re ad e r “ ” on a u e a th e u a s nshin holid y to pland vill ges , h e could only have h ad in h is mi nd th ose w c e t he a we e w e hi h , lik Ch lfonts , r ithin a rid o f r Th e c a e the e de H o ton . ott g is on l ft si of the a e e n u the m in str et l adi g p hill . Within are e e e e b ut we som int r sting Miltonian r lics , e fe t o f th e and e pr r to hink past, to pictur Milton h l - f u sitting in t e ow roo ed parlo r . It may have be e n in this room that Milton ask e d E l wood e a the u o f Pa r a dise L ost to r d man script . A t

' C h al o nt he c e rtainly first thought out the pl an o f Par adise R e ained. The c w . g hurch ith a n and t o e t e e nant ave w aisl s , con ains som r m s of w — e e o n 8 s e good ork Norman bas s to pi rs . id , fine u E a w w E . 8 indo and do ble piscina , . , on . de the e e windo si of chanc l , a singl light vr,

D e c . e of c ce f on N sid han l , and a Norman ont , e e d e re are e u e the e c e r stor . Th brass s nd r r ss in

. wa o f . e of a two e n S ll S aisl man and wom , on a at e n f t fli ie and alt r tomb E . d o aisl e h e e g s o f IVilliam G ard ne r n e w fe y , Esq . , and A n , his i , w . e d e 1 8 and on w o f ith nin chil r n , 55 , N . all e th e N . aisle , a palimps st inscription . On N . wall of chance l within the communion rails are the e fli ie s a e e w t wo g of Sir Thom s Fl t ood , his w ee ives and eight n children , and on the same 88

BUCKINGHAM SH I R E

was e e a e e - for sev ral y rs a m ting place for Quakers , the two Chalfonts be ing the ce ntre of a notable amount of Quak e rism in th e e arly part of that e e e n was an r ligious movem nt . I saac P nni gton e special martyr to th e religious e nth usiasm of the u e F riends , being imprisone d fo r times in Ayl sbury

as e d L 0 e e th e n e gaol , and his family w oblig l av Gra g 6 6 n e nd of 1 w e f . in 5. A path ay (l t) at S ( L ondo ) the village leads through th e me adows and Chalfont a b - e Th e e P rk to a y road to D nham , 43 m . hous e t he e e th e b longing to park is s n by lake . It has s e e e s e e ome lit rary int r t , for it b long d to Charles Churc hill ne h e w f e u e of , p o th great D k Marlborough , who 1 6 e e the , in 74 , marri d L ady Maria Walpol , s e e e wh o 1 6 0 fre ist r of Horac Walpol , , from 7 , ue da two e e e o f q ntly spent a y or her , and l ft som his Strawberry Hill influe nce on the archite cture the e Th e e of plac . property pass d out of the s th e 1 po s ession of Chu rchills in 792 . N E the t he . In uplands , about 3 m . to . , is the colony o f the National Socie ty for the Employ e n o f e e m t Epil ptics , an institution modell d on a o f e e e e — the th t Bi l f ld , and establish d first of its — ia 18 kind in England 93 . It can be visited at trme any . The 0 e c five church ( ) is mod rn , but ontains e w o f e e the alim brass s on N . all chanc l . Not p p u sest brass of a prie st . Th e first fig re has been alte re d by the rounding of th e toe s and the n the e addition of shading , so as to bri g figur ( 1540 ) into harmony with the dress of a century the later than that of original brass . Th e other brasse s comme morate William Wh a e lode 1 8 w fe was pp ( 39 ) and i , Eliz I t 00 C H AR T ER IDG E— C HEDDINGT ON n t e e we e 1 6 w o ngrav d , ho v r , till 44 , hich is also the d ate of a brass to son of ab o ve . In th e ve stry is preserved a c ommunion s e rvice of pe wte r ( 16 6 1 Cba rteridge is a ne w parish with a mode rn

n he E . e a . chur c h on th e high grou d to t N . of Ch sh m m e n Cbearsle e . y (Tham , 4 , Hadd ham ,

C . C . a e on u . , 3 3 m ) is a small vill g high gro nd on V e e lie the sid e of the Thame all y . The cottag s h e e 1d ve e Th e along t brok n grou ry pr ttily . u h e f e e w e e ch rch is to t S . o th villag do n a ste p lan . ' I t W we in th e of 1 has a . to r built first half 5th d a e w e n ve an . c ntury ith turr t , a , ch ncel The marks of the high - pitche d roof can still be s e e n in the

we . c now e e to r This chur h is mark d chi fly by P . - e . Th e fine w e 1 featur s font , ith arly 3th century circular bowl fluted be low with c able and flowe r e n be e th e ornam ts above , is to not d . In floor of the c e e e e hanc l , almost imm diat ly b neath the read in w - e g desk , is a ell preserv d brass to John F ank l r e e n h is w fe e 1 6 2 . y and i Margar t , 4 C lseddzngton ( L ondon and N orth - We stern Rail wa w u e u e of is th e y) is itho t any f at r interest , nor u n e w ch rch of any importa c , though it is ell situate d o n a hilloc k with a pleasant be lt of tre e s a low we n around . It has W . to r , ave , aisle and chance l ; the 17th - century pulpit and communion e tabl are noticeable . e d we e e Ch dington , ho v r , poss sses in its ” e e lynchets an obj ct of considerable importanc . e W f he w be the S . o t Th y ill found to . village and are e a conspicuous object on the landscap . The y consist of three broad terrace s on th e hill d f n u si e aci g E . Of co rse various absurd traditions 9 1 BUCKINGHAM SH I RE are e preserved about th m in local histories , but e e now their tru natur has been clearly e stablish e d . They are survivals o f the common field system which was an important e l ement in the Saxon “ e a and m di eval village community . When a hill ” M r e n o w w side , says S ebohm in his classical ork “ o n Tlse En lisla Villa e C ommunit f e g g y , orm d part o f the open field the strips almost al ways w to not w ere made run , up and do n the hill , but horizontally along it ; and in ploughing, the custom for ages was always to turn the sod o f the w w w furro do nhill , the plough consequently al ays w th e w returning one ay idl e . If hol e hillside w on e w ere ploughed in field , this ould result in a gradual travelling of the soil from th e top to th e o f not bottom the field , and it might be noticed . But as in the open -fie ld system the hillside was ploughed in strips with unploughed walks b e w no t een them , sod could pass in the ploughing from on e strip to the next ; but the proc e ss o f moving the sod downwards would go o n age aft e r a e th e w g j ust same ithin each individual strip . ’ w e In other ords , every y ar s ploughing took a sod from the higher edge of the strip and put it o n the lowe r edge ; and the result was that strips became i n time long level terraces o ne above th e w w w other, and the al ks bet een them gre into steep rough banks o f long gras s covered oft e n with - w natural self so n brambl e and bushes . Th e lynchets of are the best ex ampl es in the county of an agricultural and social feature o f much historical interest . Cnenies Ise nh am ste ad- , once p Cheyne (Chorley w 1 1 — ood , 3 m . Chal font Road , 3 This 92

B UCKI NGHA M SHI RE will be found in Cbenies C /rurcl) and Monuments o f f 1 0 1 by Adeline , Duchess Bed ord , London , 9

(privately printed), and no one should omit to read ’ n e Fro d s description . The most important is ' o f f K G that to John , first Earl Bed ord , . . (died th e o f first statesman a remarkabl e family, Th e and Anne Sapcote , his countess . magni ficent — and b e autiful memorial t wo recumbent e fligies — in alabaster o n a rich altar tomb is i n the c e ntre

w . of the chapel under the E . indow. S is the somewhat similar but in ferior monument o f w Francis , second E arl , and his ife . N . is another w e ff al tar tomb ith alabaster igy, and richly — o f w coloured Ann e , Countess War ick , daughter o f of the second Earl . I n the centre the Chapel is a plain marbl e slab on Tuscan columns that m B o urchie r comme orates Lady Frances , grand of o f daughter the second Earl . I n the centre w N . all is the memorial to Frances , Lady Chandos — e . O a reclining figur n the S . side is a memorial si milar in character to the two fi rst

w - mentioned monuments , but ith a doubl e arched t o niche surmoun ted by a pediment . This is two Francis , fourth Earl , and his Countess and was e daughters . This monument rected by the Earl himsel f before his d e ath (di e d and it was wh o he erected the monument to Francis , of w second Earl , and to the Countess War ic k . t h e w e 1 th - e Against W . all is a larg 7 c ntury e o f e monu ment to William , first Duk B dford — (died 17 1 1) the Duke and Duchess being s e ated — side by side and a m e dallion o f Lord William Russell (b e headed 16 83) is in the centre of the 18th - w upp e r portion . A characteristic century ork 94 C HEN IES e 1 6 e Wroth e sl e e ( rected 7 9) comm morates y, s cond Duk e (died It is allegorical in character R A f e . . . rom d signs by Sir W Chambers , This T h e stands against the S . wall . memorial of Earl th e Russell (Lord John Russell), Whig statesman , ( 17 92 - 187 8) is similar to that of Lady Franc es w e . . Bouchi r, and is n ear S all , W of door l eading 1 2 th e to the church . Lord Ampthill ( 8 9 o n di plomatist , is commemorated by a tablet S . wall over the memorial to Earl Russell . The monument in the form of a bronze candelabrum is that to Lord Arthur Russell ( 1857 Other monuments o f less importanc e cannot b e e e w here num rated . The indows were placed ( 1895- 97) to commemorat e those o f the House o f o f w Russell , hom no other memorial exists . They ‘ e are from designs by C . E . Kemp , M . A . In addition to the brasses alre ady mentioned are e e of e a e e e s e 1 sev ral oth rs consid r bl int r t , nam ly , ( ) the we - e e o f Ph e li ll pres rv d brass Anna p (c . wh o e d D e c n 2 holds a h art , and stan s in a . iche ; ( )

e s n 0 . 1 1 1 Agn s John on, in a lo g robe and hood ( 5 ) e e r u ( 3 ) E lizab th , daught of John Bro ghton with long flowing hair ; (4) in th e inne r

c are h n . 1 6 por h Jo n Wallisto , Smythe (c 4 9) and two w e f of 2 e e his iv s ; and ( 5) le t ( ) a v st d prior . A fe w yards down t he hill (on the main road e a e u to Ch sh m ) right hand , is a bridl road thro gh an a venue of old e lms whence there is a charming e w u th e of t h e e a e u vi p valley Chess , sp ci lly b a ti ful Th e e c the in eve ning light . road l ads a ross e to e w th e vall y Sarratt (H rts). The path ay at ’ we st e nd of t h e church l e ads to th e M onk s a w f — W l k , ith some traditions o a ghost a shady 95 BU CKINGHAM SHI RE

w w o f path ay along the bro the hill . The Manor House adjoining th e Church is an exc el lent exampl e o f 16 th century domestic archi e w h was t cture . The house hic once stood there e o f 16 th r buil t about the middl e the century . Clse ers Cour t n t ou ( o open to public . Kimbl e 2 on e o f th e o f Station , m . ) is historic houses o n Bucks . Built a grassy gap in the Chilterns e e w and surround d by tre s and beech oods , it is the f centre o a charming landscape . Architecturally it is o f consid e rabl e interest as an example of a d o f 16 for omestic building the th century, it s 1 6 6 th e e was wa built in 5 . In G orgian period it considerably defaced by additions of incongruous

w now e . details , hich have been remov d Inter

w . f nally the library, hich extends along the S ront , is - o n e f e a noticeabl e room , eighty e t long . Chequers has attained a c el ebrity outside Buckinghamshire from the coll ection o f portraits o f Cromwell and his family which it contains . The most import ’ ant are those o f the Protector s two sons and four e of w f daughters . There are thre Crom ell himsel , o n e an rat e o f w d but at y , that Crom ell as a chil , is not regarded as genuine by good authorities . Th e y found a home at Chequ e rs by r e ason o f ’ e o f w e the marriag Crom ell s young st daughter, o f Frances , to Sir John Russell , Chi ppenham , Col w . Cambridgeshire, hose grandson , Charl es e u R e ve tt e e o f Russell , marri d Joanna C tts , h ir ss h e r Th urb arn e wh o was mother, Joanna , heiress w of o f C ro ke s wh o by ill M ary, the last the , had inherited Ch e quers from the H awtreys early in 1 the 7th century . The ownership o f Chequers can be trac e d 96

B U CKINGHAM SHIRE

P. w w w o f the chancel of , the est indo nave , w w w o f also indo s in N . and S . alls the tran w w w . septs , as ell as cl erestory indo s on w Note the N . all of chancel a curious 16 2 monument to Richard Woodcote , 3 , and old b utte sses of . e several sundials on the S aisl , and v in the par ise over the porch , entered by turret

. f o f . w stair from S aisl e , ragments N ork . c 1 Near the chur h is the Bury, a good 7 th century house .

besbam ois 1 . C B . . ( m S . S . E Chesham ; 3 m N . of Am e rsham) consists o f a fe w scattered cottag e s ne w e on of e and many hous s the S . Ch sham Bois th e r e w e Common, on la ge ridg hich divid s the e o f e f Misbourne e vall y the Ch ss rom the Vall y . The church is finely situate d in a pl e asant w of e meado overlooking the valley the Ch ss , and e t u w th e is approach d hro gh a drive , hich is e 88 1 the entrance to a private hous . In 1 tower W was u S . . reb ilt and placed at angle , and the n n e buildi g ge erally has been much restor d . l e e e 1 th - Th r is a carv d pu pit ( 7 century), and in th e floor of the chanc e l a small brass to Bene dict L e e ( 1520 ) of a c h rysom child (the ch rysom was th e white cloth in which an infant was w rappe d immediately after baptism , and which serve d as a shroud if the c hild die d within two a month of its birth) . Adjoining are fine 16 - r e e i o f e th century b ass s , m mor als E lizab th , 6 w e e . 1 1 ife of Rob rt Cheyn , Gent , 5 , and of 1 2 w n . Robert Chey e , E sq , 55 , sho ing much e labo ration of tre atme nt both in th e fe ature s e and dr ss . b wod 2 m C et e . . ( F inmere Station , O x on , 3 ; 98 CH ES HAM BOI S—CH I CHE LE Y

s Buckingham , 3§ m . ) is another of those place th e w h ad no e in county hich in reality villag , e the e e the the church b ing c ntr of parish . It 12 adjoined the Augustinian Priory, founded in 44 R al h e de w w was the by Sir p Nor ich , of hich it is w conventual church . I t a building hich has — W N . no w w r . out ard attraction , the to e at angle E E r —its e . a appears to be . but is poo , import nc w E E w lies in the chancel , hich is fine . . , ith a - w fi w . ve . light E . indo , and a N and S trip let with flowe rs and animals on the capitals o f th e f . w w a sha ts . The S indo has old gl ss — of the 13th and 14th c e nturie s depicting five e S figur s . On . side is a beautiful arcade w f ith sha ts and foliated capitals , and the h n w One toot ed or ament in hollo mouldings . compartment form s the doorway into th e gardens of th e priory (where there is a ke y of c s ] the chur h). On a lab in the chance is an e e 1 inscription to the memory of Risl y Risl y, 7 55, w n v th e hich mentio s , among his other irtues , “ pleasant trait that he was a gentleman of great ” hospitality . ' Cbzcbele e w e 2 y (N port Pagn ll , m . ) is a ue e picturesq plac , consisting of some thatched cottages under large trees by the roadside , and w - and on S . of road the hite gabled rectory the w - e w r church , ith grey, ivy cover d to e , a fair sized building pleasantly placed , but of no e s n e int re t , havi g much mod rn and some poor l e mediaeva work . Note a curious monum nt on w e e e e all of N . aisle , to A nthony Cav , r ct d by w w 6 s u a his ido in 1 57 . On the arcophag s lies s e u n u th e keleton und r a canopy . Sing larly e o gh 99 B UCKINGHAM SH I RE

a e u e c e o n s m s bj t is d picted a brass , a monument to one of the Cave s (c . There are t wo we ll pre se rv e d brasse s on the o f A t floor , in same part the church , to n hony Cave and his wife though a figure in armour suitable to a much e arlie r time has be e n e for e us d this m morial . 'l m C b t e C . C z ofl . . ( Tham , 4 ; Watton , C i ltonc 3% m . ) Domesday , is e we w w a villag ll orth a visit . No here is th e aspect o f a 1 7th -century villag e more W t . th e S o f horoughly preserved It lies at . . a 0 ridge (45 and at the N . side is shel tered by e of w the slop s a small hollo . In the past i t was e w C ro ke s wh o chiefly identifi d ith the , were lords o f the manor from about 1 52 9 to 16 82 was o f . Sir George Crok e a Judge the ’ w King s Bench , during the trying times hich n preceded the Rebellio , and he had the strength o f character to give j udgment against the claim o f w the Cro n for ship money . w o f The church , hich stands at the N . side — the village note the picturesque hal f- timbered cottages near the S . entrance to the churchyard e e is a r markabl building . Approached from the w for low E E S . no to er is to be seen , i t is a . . o n e o f structu re , the N . sid the church , giving the o f interior the appearance having a N . transept . E E w An . . S . transept and a P . porch , ith a f w room above , are the eatures hich at once attrac t

E E. w e e notice . The chancel is . , hil the broad nav , f w o f w . . ith an oak roo , is P On the E all (outside) the nave a stone effigy o f a knight in chain armour has been plac ed in an u pright position , 100

BUCKI N GHAMSH I R E the bl ue line of the Chilt e rns bre aks the horizon . t bolcrl ur e e m e a . C . y ( W ndov r , 4 ; Ch sh m , gi m ) e nd f is a scatte red village on the N . o a high 6 20 ft on the u n we e common ( . ) pla ds bet n the e summi t of th e Chilt rns and Chesham . The c u 18 2 - o f a e hurch reb ilt 7 7 3 the old m t rials , is e w be llc ot an interesting littl building ith , bu e . a . t nave, and chanc l It is m inly Dec , the

fe e the E E . chief ature of inter st is . south we porch . To the N . of the church is a ll pre served plateau camp grown ove r but not e t e now c e e hidd n by r es . It omm nces clos to e r e the vicarag , and returns in a semici cl to a

n . o f th e u w poi t S . E ch rch , the site of hich it e e onc nclosed . I t consists of a ditch and ram e the part ; and , having r gard to confor one e mation of the ground , it must at time hav f t if e fi . e ormed a s rong , rud , forti cation It cov rs e 15 acr s . C i mlwm pp to the S . of, and in the parish of B urnham is now an insignificant littl e hamlet with no trac e s of th e Royal Palace oc c upie d by th e Mercian kings and e r o f the e the a ly Norman monarchs , or chap l I grante d by H enry I I . to the Abbess of

Burnham . C la dom Tbc e e y , . It is conv ni nt to e ma e of e e r gard the s ll parish s Ste pl , Middle and East Claydon and th e haml e t o f as a singl e com are c e munity , for they lose tog ther and are ar fe r ch acterised by the same natural atu es . 10 2 CHOL ESBUR Y— TH E C L AYDO N S

e w f o f Each , too, is associat d ith the amily the w Verneys . itsel f stands ithin a ’ e ston s throw o f Middl e Claydon church .

Ste ul . pp or Steepl e Claydon (Claydon , L and W 2 N . . , m . , } m . ) is the north

e rn most of r . the three pa ishes The village, the o f e e on w largest the thr , stands an el evation , hence wide and pleasant views are obtained of Brill to Hill and Ashendon to the W . the Chilterns w - N . w . the , over ell ooded pastures The church

is on e o f the fe w in the county with a steepl e . e e e e are It has b n much r stor d , and parts mod e rn ; it pres e nts no fe ature of inte rest The n D e c e u i of . w E wi do is . The b autiful sit at on t of th e his building is its attraction . To the N . c h urch is an old stone barn with an inscription e t lling that the Parliamentary army, under the of wel was e command Crom l , encamp d here i n 6 h e f March 1 44 . In t village itsel is a simple e o f th e buildi ng which is a fr e library . Each Claydons possesses this valuabl e addition to village e of few e E lif , and are some the villag s in ngland which have had the good sense to adopt the Free

Libraries Act . B otol h C la don e p y , as already stat d , is only a e o n e haml t , though a large , and lies to the S W o f o n to . . East Claydon the road Claydon e e nd Hous and Middl e Claydon . At the E . is old - - Botolph House , an brick and ston e Manor old House , shaded by an c edar .

East Cla don w 1 . y (Winslo Road, m ) is a de lightful villag e on high ground overlooking th e th e S county to E . and . , characterised by the - -wh same black and it e cottages , many havi ng a 10 3 BUCK INGHAM SHIR E

1 th - e m its 7 century date , und r shady el s , as e o f n ighbour Botolph Claydon . At the E . side th e e e e th e villag , almost imm diately opposit e m c the church , is the Manor Hous far , alled h e w w e w W it House, ith its long hit alls and c e one u s por h hidden in cr e pe rs . No sho ld pas w we h o w old it by unnoticed , but hen remark it e 16 8 is , it becomes doubly inter sting . Here in 5 ff of lived M r Abel , the sheri the county, and here V o f Edmund ern ey, the eldest son Sir Ralph w of and his ife Mary, the daughter M r Abel , lived f e 16 6 2 rom their marriag in , and it has hardly Th e e e . been touch d sinc that time church , which is rea c hed bv a short lan e near the sign w omts to W ns w f e a e post hich p i lo , is su fici ntly isol t d — to give o ne a s e ns e o f tranquillity with the outstretching co u ntry to the S which is only — broken by the l ow line of the Chilterns but it has not much e xcept its delightful position to recommend i t to the stranger . But this is sufficient . Architecturally it is without special v and e indi iduality, has be n a good deal rebuilt f e since its oundation . The d tails are Dec . and P are 1 but poor, and some are probably really 7th 18 - and th century work . M iddle C la don w ta 2 y (Winslo R oad S tion , % w w e m . ) lies mid ay bet e n S teepl e and East n e Claydo , being rather a parish than a villag , and having its c entre in the church and in w — th e Claydon House , hich stand side by side o f w was church a littl e to the S . the house, hich o f fo r the M anor House Claydon , and dates back w many c enturies . An old dra ing depicts the N . front o f Claydon House in the 17th c e ntury 10 4

BUCKIN GHAM SHI RE

we e wh o several generations com to Sir Francis , e e became an Algerin pirat , and died in Sicily ; and wh o v o f to Sir Edmund , took o er the remainder 16 2 0 the Claydon l ease , and returned there in . f He married Margaret Denton o Hillesden . A faithful if a reluctant adherent of Charl es I he 16 2 lost his life for him at Edgehill in 4 . Then came Sir Ralph , the j udicious Parliamentarian , wh o 16 6 . was died in 9 His son , Sir John , created

e rmana h . e Baron Vern ey, Viscount F g The s cond wh o e 1 1 was Earl Verney, di d in 79 , succeeded by wh o was ermana h his niec e, created Baroness F g , and through her half-sister Claydon descended w wh o by ill to Sir Harry Calvert , subsequently of assumed the name Vern ey . M iddl e Claydon church (the key can be obtained at Claydon House) stands on the S . s of ide the house . It can be reached by either o f of —o n the entrances the park N . side from the S o r o n road to Claydon tation Verney Junction , w S . a road from East Claydon and Winslo Road

. w Station It is a small church , ith nave and ] e 1 0 chance the latter in the P . styl e , b gun in 5 9 i 1 1 w and fin shed in 5 9, and the hol e has been practically rebuilt . The monuments and brasses which i t contai ns give it much interest . The oldest monument is a simpl e altar tomb in the chanc el with an effigy of ff w i n alabaster a lady richly habited , a Gi ard, ith

1 . w o f the date 539 On the N . all chancel is a characteristic Jacobean monument , to Urian and Lettice Vern ey o f the kind so familiar to wh o a o f those h ve studied the churches E ngland , f a man and wife kneeling at either side o a desk . 10 6 T H E C L A YD ON H O U S E

BUCKINGHA M SH IRE

ne wa E e t from Ol y by y of mb rton , or by a foo path the e w e e ur across m ado s starting from n ar Oln y Ch ch , d small c hurc h or by a ford at Laven on Mill . The w e e e . d n ho ev r , is v ry int resting I t is a short buil i g , w n e a e a e c e ith av , isl s , and ch nc l , a small N . hap l , we 12 1h c e nt e to r ( ury) and S . porch . The nav is u w a t e e e curio sly high , ith Dec . b t l m nts . I t has lanc t a e c of th e n i f D e c rch s , indi ative tra sit on rom E . E . to . , th e w w D e c Th e but indo s are both . and P . font , of e 1 - e w w w e lat 4th c ntury ork , is note orthy, ith figur s , u w n u u a m ch or , in panels ro nd the pper p rt . This c e u The hurch contains some remarkabl mon me nts . e e o f w n e e e arli st these is ithin a ca opi d r c ss in the N . “ wa . and of two e ll of the N aisle , consists recumb nt e ffi ie s f e a g , male and emal , c rved in oak , and resting u e Th e on a modern slab s pported by brack ts . knight o r warrior is re presented in the usual armour of l th e b ut th e le u w was the g c ntury, g armo r , hich w e d Th e probably sho n in colours , has disappear . h s e t e e . purs also are gon , but straps r main The right le g is cross e d ov e r the left ; with the right hand h e s and w th e e h e is heathing his s word , ith l ft holds a e 1e two u h n the scabb rd . His h ad sts on c s io s , fe e d e u e d The o . and his t on a g, very rud ly fig r ’ u e o f u o f e e lady s cost m is , co rse , the sam p riod . we a h e r w on She rs over head a veil , hich falls de h e e ac h sid e of th e face to the shoul rs . T neck and e e d w w e n chin are cov r ith a imple , r achi g a the u e r e low lmost to nd lip . The dr ss is in r n and w f ont about the eck , falls in folds do n to f e w e e w s the e t . The go n is sleev l ss , ith long lits for the arms . The hands are raised in prayer . u e n Th e mon m nt has neither date nor inscriptio , but has been supposed to repr e s e nt Simon de 10 8

B UCKIN GHAM SHI RE

to of quently belonged the first Earl Orkney, and of f o f later to Frederick , Princ e Wal es , ather e r w George I I I . Aft ards it became the property o f the Duk e of S utherland, and by the marriage o f the first Duke o f Westmoreland with Lady Constanc e L e ve son Gower it passed into the o f f was possession the Grosvenor amily . I t burnt w 1 18 0 d w do n i n 7 95, rebuilt i n 3 , again burnt o n and rebuilt by the Duk e of Buckingham in 1849 of o n e from the designs Sir Charl es Barry, and is o f o f the masterpieces that great architect . C old B ra e/d w yfi (Olney, M idland Rail ay, 3 w 2 m Turvey, Beds . , M idland Rail ay, m . ) is a small parish without a village . Th e church and f Bra fi eld an adjoining arm stand to the N . of y o f w l es w House , the park hich p do n to the

Ouse . It is a small and poor but early church w w ith chancel , nave , and W . to er . The N . E E f o f porch is . . , and is the best eature the

building .

C oley/7 171 2 . was ( Station , 3; m ) f of f ormerly an isolated bit Hert ordshire, s everal o f n ow mil es from the rest the county . It is w rather a bl eak village, ith a common and a small w s . a modern church Here, at the M anor House , — bo rn E dmund Wall e r th e poet 16 0 5) ree Intro n e fi e 16 th ductio , p . 55, and B acons ld . This e no w the century hous , called Stock s Place , is in th e th e centre of village opposite schools . Near it ’ e w is Wall r s oak . Tradition has it that in a hollo of this old tree the poet used to sit and write e s s w v r es , but thi fiction probably gre from this ’ fine tre e be ing call e d Waller s oak through its e proximity to his birthplac . 110 COLD BRAY FI EL D—C UDDINGTON

olnbr ool t n e C (Sta io , onc a municipal borough , is lar e un nte re stin a e e s e nowa g , i gvill g on ither id ofthe main 8 fe w e the road . On . side are a old hous s , Ostrich Inn The is e specially should be noted . church modern . m — C re se lai Cr eslow A 6 . ( ylesbury , g ) D omesday, n of a consists of an ancient Ma or H ouse S . the ro d from A lesbury to Wh itchurch be low it immense pastures y — slope to Brook ofte n too well known to hunt — h e 0 the e t e 0 . ing men larg st , Gr at F ield , is 3 acres F or centurie s the y were th e fe eding gro und of cattle for the ’ 1 6 u e royal kitchen, as is recited in 59 by Q een Elizab th s l e tte r s pat e nt granting to one Mayne th e post of kee per and e for w 16 e w v e h rd t enty years . In 7 3 th y ere con ey d ff 180 0 absolutely to Thomas , L ord Cli ord . About they were h eldas te nant b afarme rnamedWe stcar A uaint y . q agricultural monument can be seen to him in the church h e 1 e e gained many p iz s for his cattle . Thes great fields e e be hav sinc continued to important feeding pastures. w was one i s h i s Creslo at time a parish , but t istory o A t the trme o f e i obscure . the Dissolution ofthe monast r e s e s Th e the manor b longed to the Knights H ospitaller . n 1 0 now is Ma or House , built c . 3 3 , a farmhouse , an inte re s ting e xample of medie val domestic archite cture — n e a we e ot an oct gonal to r at S . end , some mullion d w e w w no w . indo s and a crypt ith a groin d roof, a cellar of Adjoining are some relics the chapel . C ublin ton e d 8c R g ( L ighton Buzzar , L . N . W . y. , 5 m —a h e . e v s t ) secluded littl illage , tanding high among s w pasture of the Vale of Aylesbury, ith a small early - 1 th . Th e e w e 5 century church nav is holly of this dat , th e s e e d a other part hav b en slightly restore . Note a pl in e s e str l t 12 1 h - v a e th t u w . oak ch t in y, or early 3 cent ry ork

Cuddin ton 8c . 2 g (Haddenham, G . W . G . C R . m . A e 1 1s yl sbury, 5 m . ) on the main road between Aylesbury

. o f u s d of and the W the county . The ch rch , at N . i e 111 BU CK INGH AM SHI R E th e c e ] e w e A S village , has a hanc , nav , ith aisl s , . . e we u w . . e chap l , and to r ith stair t rret at N E corn r . th e e are t wo w n w w In S . chap l i do s ith P . trace ry w e Th e and a dripstone ith fin ly carved heads . E . w o f the are w . De c . indo s nave and S chapel early ,

th e of th e s E . E . th e e capitals pier , font is lat N . 6 w . 12 0 . e o f Note the S . door ay , c On the N . sid th e ch urch is an inte re sting old house with th e date 6 u e w 1 0 now e . on a door ay , 9, s d for a villag club ’ C mée/irze r M ount m e are th e y , or Ki ble Castl , popular nam e s fo r th e ext re me point ( 530 fe e t) ofth e h romontor in th e o f e igh grassy p y parish E ll sborough , Wt h e h o f t h e e - t e a spur Chilt rns , ext nds into h e w e w t . lo land , b t een Ell esborough and Kimbl es fo r I t is a conspicuous object a long distanc e, and its formation is similar to that o f many places the extremity of which has become a fortified post . When approached the end is found to be a S w e w e e . conical hill ith smooth sid s xc e pt on , her it is c onn e cte d by a ne c k with th e main range of Th e the Chilte rns . banks and ditche s of a rude r are e and e fo tification still visibl , appar ntly it was u c astle P0 3 3 1bl a mo nt and bailey . y it was a fortified position during both the Roman and Saxon dominion , dominating as it did Ic knie ld the i mportant Way, and commanding a e o f f large xtent ertil e country . But there is absolutely no historical evid e nce of any connec ’ tion between Cymbelin e s M ount and an abode o f the British king whos e resid e nce was at Cam w ulodun um (Col chester). But as his coinage sho s that Cymbeline also r e igned at Verulamium (St w was f Albans), hich not distant rom the Chiltern n -f ra ge , it is not too far etched a supposition that [ 12

BUCKINGHAM SH I RE e e a w e e e a sp ci lly in H olland , Win ood b cam Secr t ry M o f . P 16 1 S tate and . for Buck s in 4 , and in 16 1 - 1 e e of 5 7 Jam s I . appointed him K eper the M e e e l essuag and Park of Ditton . H r he bui t a on o f e d a d w mansion the site a m i eval buil ing , hich became his country house for th e remainde r of his fe e are c e li , so D itton and D atch t los ly bound up w his e s 16 2 - 0 a ith later y ar . I n F ebruary 9 3 , L dy ’ Win ood s Winwood purchased Ditton Park . w was d e 18 12 th e house estroy d by fire in , and in w n th e e n follo i g year pres nt house , a large , rambli g , - e was e semi castellat d building , erected by E lizab th, s e h w te Duches of Buccl uc , to hom the esta had e n e e e desc d d through Ann , only daught r of Sir R . w d who e a w Win oo , marri d L ord Mont gu , and hose son be came owner of D itto n on th e death of his N E e n . . . th w u cle of house is a chapel , ith a nave , and on w d e chancel S . porch ; the E . all is the at 6 th e w 8 1 1 1 1 . 7 , and on W . all that of 7 en/mm W D n G . 8C l . (Statio , . m ) is e o f remarkable for its many examples , in and n ar , me ae e e f di val dom stic architecture . I t is a d light ul old -world village with a singl e street of pic turesque h a e lm e a w e ouses l rge trees , pl asant me do s and littl s w —c c th e treams , among hich it lies haracteristi of — vall e y of the Colne add to the charm of the

- e . 1 th a e e plac The 4 century church , of flint , is gr a n e th e ably pl ced amo g ov rhangi ng trees at S . E . de e end of the village . Internally it has consi rabl r e w merit in its propo tions, and has a nav ith t o e be 16 th - w aisl s . There should noted a century n and w e monume t to Sir E . Peckham his if , — th e e e on the N . side of the altar r cumb nt lie e t h e e e~ figure s sid by side , feet hav been car 114 DEN HA M ful e e e e ly r stor d with old fragm nts . The tr at m o f e and e u e wa ent the h ads f at r s , though nting e e e w in r finem nt , is evid ntly the ork of a sculptor w of the e imbued ith the spirit Renaissanc . A t th e e c e of e in ntran the chanc l N . is an te re stin a e n g br ss , 3 feet , to Dam A gnes Jorda , last A bbess of S ion o ne of th e only two he e xtant brasses in England to an abbe ss . T fe u e e at r s are broadly but accurat ly portrayed . On the opposite sid e is a well - pre s e rv e d brass an e Th e o f e of eccl siastic . inscription later dat e be e e is suppos d to to L onard Hurst , pri st Th e re are also b1ass e s to Walter Dure de nt and his t wo wives A palimp se st brass now affix e d to a movabl e frame was originally a monument to a friar , but on this design h as been e ngraved the e ffi gy of A mphillis Pe ckham I t shows th e inge nuity wi t h which the later artist has adapte d the outlines of th e first to those o f th e e u e t ne w h s cond fig re . An incis d s o slab, it fi u e of wn e a g r a man in a go , Philip Edel n w of c e ] in the S . all the hanc , is an e w exampl of a rare kind of ork , probably an a ttempt of a brass work e r to adapt his d ff a th e art to a i erent material . A p inting on w l of n e u be e nor S . a l av sho ld not overlook d , an octagon font ( R E ) The fine ave nue of limes close to the church l e ads to D e nham r e Cou t . M mories of D ryden still linger about u f h e e v e w e e or . this ho s , oft n isit d Sir W Bo y r, who was th e w e and h e e the then o n r , call d “ g ard e n one of the most delicious in Eng ” e d f h l and. The high walls at the W . n o t e 115 BUCKINGHA M SH IRE village e nclose th e gard e ns of De nh amPlace but c an we e f c w it be ll s en rom the road to Ri kmans orth . It was e e e x onc the home ofthe P ckhams , and is a striking e of e e u e ampl the dom stic archit ct r of its age . It contains fine N E he u . I . . . t e some tapestry i m is Savoy, a ho s ( 14th to 16 th c e ntury) with re mains of 1 6 th - c e nt ury a w n e e mur l paintings , and hich is importa t as a sp cim n e the a e a of dom stic a rchitecture . H ill House in vill g is b ut e e e th - e e small good xampl of a lat 1 7 c ntury r sidence . Den/3 a m e of u o f , haml t Q ainton . The mansion the ancie nt lords of Q uainton and the Winwoods stood e e a h r fr gments only remain . 1 Dinton G W 8c - m e (Haddenham , . . 3 7 . ; Ayl s but e to e from e u y , 4% m . ) li s S . of th main road Ayl sb ry to Thame ; it is re ach e d th rough a picture sque avenue o f e e e ch stnuts . I t is a charming villag shad d by elms , through which the distant Ch i lte rns c an be se en to th e w Th e c ke e S . across the meado s . hurch ( y at Vicarag ), e 16 th e w e the gabl d Manor H ouse ( c ntury), hich touch s W th e e the . be e grav yard on , the half tim red hous , through an ar c hway of which th e passer -by re ache s the v e Th e we e e . lo r part of the illag , mak a unique pictur d w of e c church , as a buil ing , sho s important signs a h he i l u Th e of t pe riods of English me d z va architect re . f n w rs e e e o . w 1 S . door ay the most remarkabl pi c N ork th e ce i c 1n e xe county , is imaginative in con pt on, and ri h c ution w e i t e of e e i n , hil has som thing barbaric rud n ss its e Th e e f are e of tr atment . chi points to note thr e courses e th e h oodmould th e the e bill t on , outer jambs , bold rais d e e e o r e e e e and r c ss d zigzag on the nex t inn r ord r , a b ard d monste r with beaded scroll o n th e abacus : next the guil loche pattern ro und the tympanum forme d by three inter e e e e the lacing b ad d scrolls , and in the c ntr of tympanum , r and on e e w w e d a t ee , eith r sid an animal ith pa s , h a 116

DINTON

of w and a shaggy mane a lion , and body ithout off hind legs , gradually tapering to the tail . E ach animal is in the act of biting the fr uit off from

e . e w the in the tre B lo , on main face , is an e c e e w scription in larg apital lett rs , and b lo , on e e e e f th e e in upp r chamf r d edg o lintel , anoth r scr1 tron p . O n the lint e l is the combat betwe e n St e w Michael and Satan . An immens dragon ith te rribl e jaws and large e xtende d tongue is advanc f th e w w e e ing rom W . to ards a small ing d figur

th e . e wh o s w in E corn r , hold a cross , hich he t is about to thrust down he throat of the s e rpe nt . Th e E H th e w w w chancel is . . , E . indo , ith its w e e three lights id ly s parated , or, more strictly e the e w w sp aking , thr e E . indo s , being the most Th e e re markable . nav arches and piers are not

e w d w D e e . specially notic able , but in o s , both and

P e us th e e nd th e e e v . . , tak to of m di al period D e c - u The font ( . ) is cup shaped , fl ted , round e Th e w the top is geom trical orname nt . to er a u at th e S E and has t rret . . angle a very good

E . E we w . st door ay . W the S . . On the floor of the S . aisle in corne r are brasses to John Compton and w e u w e e th e his ife , b autif lly ork d . Mor to N . is th e f L e e w e e a e figy of William and his if , h d of e L e e less E . th se are F ranci s w e w fe in a go n very finely engrav d , and his i , and their seve n sons and four daughters lie at fe et of John Compton .

e w . To the N . and lev l ith W L ee are 16 1 w w Simon Mayne ( 7) and his ife , belo are tw l o c n . w their hildre . Close to S al . are 117 B UCKINGHA MSH I RE

. w and w f Thos Green ay in armour his i e , e e w and h adless , and E . of them , Richard Gre n ay his w e if , Joan

N . E of on th e e d To . the village , Ayl sbury roa , is a ruin called The Castl e it co nsisted of a towe r t o w 1 6 was and w side to ers built in 7 9, and e of w e vidently a mere fancy the o n r . In the 17 th century D i nton be longed to the Mayne w Simon was one e c e family, one of hom , , ofthe r gi id s h e e w di d in the To er , but his body is buried in Dinton the church . Members of this family held manor and e 2 w e was r sided at the Hall , till 1 7 7 , h n it sold to John V t m I t n be l s h e irs th e anhat e ow on . . g to his , Goodalls Ditton Par e , see Datchet . Dodderrball e ori inall D ode rshulle is a haml t ( g y ), but fine u is remarkable for its old Manor House (Q ainton, 1 portions ofwhich probably date from the 14th was 16 . 8 century, but the S front built in 9 and altera w e 1 0 th e tions ere mad about 79 . The hall , library , ” and the brown hall contain much old oak carv 1 16th 1 h Th e ing of the 5th , , and 7t centuries . estate came into the possession of Mr Serge ant 1 0 e Pigott in 5 3 and still r mains in his family . D or ne w 2 2 y (Taplo , m . E ton , m . ) is a village quite in the Thames Valley . The church has a c we P e e e 1 0 w bri k to r , . , r ct d c . 53 , but is other ise t f n e . w e . u int res ing It contains , ho ev r , a N ont and e e 1 a fine Jacob an monum nt to Sir W . Gerrard ( the central part of which consists of two ne arly li fe e ffi ie s of sized g . D orney Court , E . church , is a x e 16 - e n fine e ample of arly th c tury architecture . r w e e e The g eat hall , ith scr ns and dais , is r markable . o t W C 8c D r on n G . G . (Wotto , . . R . Brill Branch Me t R I r s . . , i m . ) is ve y uggestive of the past . The e w s n as an Manor House , a larg hite house , intere ti g 118

BUCKI NGHA M SHI RE sc ulpture ; (3) two large and important brasse s w to a e ithin the communion rails ( ) Thos . Cheyn ,

- . s e e w E sq , hi ld b arer to Ed ard I I I . (b) William Cheyne both in armour ; (c) in c h the hanc e l floor t e e ffigy of a headless priest , H e n . F azak e rl e y Drayton Beauchamp has a furthe r intere st from the fact that in 1 584-85 Hook e r ( 1 553-16 00 ) was e as s rector here . His r side n ce w so hort that he can scarcely be associated mark edly with a but e s the pl ce, hi s stay has been mpha ised ’ by the description given in Walton s L fi e of a r n visit paid to him by his pupils , Geo ge Cra w S mer and E d in andys , son of the Archbishop wh o th e u Ecclesi of York , found future a thor of ’ nrtzeal Polity ( 1584) herding she e p in the field s n r all l or ea the rectory, not after so unusua disagreeable an occupation for a country clergy in th e 16 e ff e to man th c ntury, and not di er nt the horticultural occ upations of the parsons of our o wn Th e e was time . r sult of this visit th e transfer of Hooker to the Mastership of the

Temple . was o the e s who It fr m B auchamp , held part of of th e e the manor Drayton in 1 3th c ntury, that we e t th e g double name Drayton Beauchamp, although that family was only in pos session for e five g nerations . Dr a ton Parr/ow w ne w y ( S anbour , 3 hich t its n Passe law akes seco d name from the family of , wh o we re lords of the manor for several ge nerations f e I . e rom the time of H nry , is a modern villag of red- h u s be n brick cottages , ardly any old b ilding i g 120 DRAYTON PA RSLOW— D ROPMORE

w h as w the left , hich gro n up round church E e w w c E . e The S . por h is . , and th r is a P . East indo , of th e w w w the rest church , W . to er and indo s , is

te of old w w . Dec . No fragments glass in the indo s

D . u e w e The font , tho gh the h raldic ork is rath r de no w w e e s o f ru and orn , i s int r sting , a succe sion e e e w e fi nials e a th e r c ss s ith crock t and . N r font is a slab in which have o nce been the e ffigie s in brass of a man and woman - the re still remain be low — the se vacant spa ce s t wo groups thre e sons and e d u e w we e th e e elev n a ght rs , much orn , ho v r , and dat 1 Bla ke noll th e e c . 53 5, and nam of the family D r o more w a p ( 3% m . from Taplo S t tion) may be approache d e ithe r by the Taplow entranc e or by the pretty lodg e close to L ittl e mo re th e e Common . One can pass through main driv e w e e two t th e b t e n th se points at any ime , but gardens and p r ivat e grounds can be visite d on d e e and f 1 1 Mon ays , W dn sdays Saturdays rom ’ e th e to 5 o clock . E v n from main drive many e e e be e e e e conif rous tr s may s n , and thes specim ns f are th e of e e of coni ers glory D ropmor . Th y w e e h er plant d by William Wynd am, L ord Gre nvill e ( 17 59 afte r h e purchas e d th e e 1 2 w was e prop rty in 7 9 , hich then littl no e be tter than waste land . I t w contains som th e ne f e e of fi st coni erous tr s in England , and in early summe r is gorgeous with th e brilliant flowers of rhodod e ndr ons and azaleas . Among th e most remarkable trees is th e c e dar of e e L banon on the lawn plant d in 1 794 . Th e as th e planting w done by F rost , head e wh o w gard ner, , years after , ould point out to e w as e visitors spl ndid trees hich , he grav ly said , 12 1 BU CKI NGH A MSH I RE h e had e his w and carri d in aistcoat pock et , w of t s b e e ould tell visi y G org I I I . Drop more can never be dissociated from its first ’ _ wn e e who was F e o er , L ord Gr nvill , P itt s or ign e 1 1- 180 1 S cretary from 7 9 , and the head of “ th e short - live d Ministry known as A ll th e ” n it Talents , containi g as did both F ox A w h e the and ddington , hich formed on e was death of P itt in 180 6 . D ropmor L ord ’ for rs d e G re nville s home many yea , and he i d e 18 her in 3 4 .

Danton w . (Winslo , 4% m ) has no village the a e e church , parson g , an old Manor H ous , and a farm and one or two cottage s o n a side road among extensive pastur e s form t of he centre the parish . The church is v s and of ery mall , gives a good idea the t e s ate of the Buc ks churches a c ntury ago , with h igh pe ws and white -washed c e ilings n A and oak be ams disappeari g above it . n w c pisci a , ith a single round moulding , is noti e

in w . A w w able the N . all door ay ith zigzag now e th e ornament , block d up , tells of antiquity of the church . On the floor of nave near t h e two e ffi ie s chancel are g in brass , much w the w w orn , figures of a man and oman ith scroll s from th e ir mouth s and under c the ffi of the chancel ar h is e gy Collys , e wife of Richard with on child . Part of the inscription is lost .

Ed eeott 1 . e ta n g ( % m Calv rt S tio , Great Central ), is a small . village with thatched cottages sprinkl e d n w e amo g damp meado s round a littl hill , on the w s c w summit of hich stand the hurch , ith a fine 12 2

BU CKINGHAM SHI RE s n - are and s w e oundi g board small , thu the hol

w e e . ork is strikingly delicat , refined and elaborat Edlesboro ugh is also fortunate in the posse ssion fine mod e e e e w e of a P . scr n , tog th r ith carv d s th e w th e e talls , hole forming best xample in the n ‘ the e e e e c cou ty , of app aranc , in this r sp t , of a

e ae . of . e e m di val church I n the floor N aisl , n ar

. e two n the N trans pt , are brasses in good conditio , ’ John R ufl ord and his thre e wives On the

w of . e e ffi ie s e n Bru is N . all N trans pt the g of H ry g w f and his i e the man in a fur gown . th e E w are e e c e s On . all som remarkabl orb l a dragon , etc . Ellesborou h e e R a g ( Wendov r, M tropolitan il W wa 2 . e e w y, 3 m Kimbl , Great stern Rail ay,

i u e u e . m . ) is a p ct r sq e and delightful plac The church (0) stands conspicuously on one of th e e s s s the north rn purs of the Chiltern , almo t in ’ e s S plain , Cymb line Mount overtops it to the . , and then the ste e p slopes of the Chilte rns close

s e e w. thi admirabl vi The church is of flint, and t e we 18 0 was e s e 18 h . . r tor d in 54, W to r in 7 Th e fine monume nt to Bridge t (die d daughte r and heire ss of William Hawtrey of f ‘ ue w o . e Cheq rs Court , and ife Sir H Crok , on ‘ w s not e e and th e ss S . all , hould be ov rlook d , bra , w s w 1 also on S . all , to Thoma Ha trey ( 54 4) his w e u is a and if , tho gh it not certain th t the figures are those refe rred to in th e in scription. s 1 th e e The cottage ( 7 century) at a littl distanc ,

and the are e . by the path side of the hill , inter sting mberton e 1 m w E . (Oln y Station, 5 ; Ne port is v Pagnell Station, 3§ m . ) a illage of some size 124 E LLE SBORO UGH— ETO N COLLEG E

th e n of o f on risi g ground S . the valley e ne th e the Ouse , almost opposit Ol y , conspi c uous spire o f whose church is s e e n through the tree s on the other side o f th e e e n n e w I n e of th e int rv i g m ado s . the c ntre village is a mode rn square clock tower

The church is o n high ground to S W . of th e e w e a c e villag , ith nav , aisles , ch n l ,

The we . c l e re story and por c hes . to r at W e nd be e a th e e should obs rved , lso d pth the w w w w of of lo er indo s , hich are earlier date than the uppe r ; also the detail o f th e cornice of th e c hancel with its grote sque e The w w e e h ads . chancel indo s of thr w lights contain some of th e be st D e c . or k the c e e th e in ounty , the delicat trac ry in h e ads o f the side windows be ing very agree - a e e e five . bl , mor attractiv than the light E w Th e w n . i do , good as it is rare carving w of e not on N . all chanc l should be over e e e w e for look d . The nav is rath r too id th e e but e w e e l ngth , tak n as a hol Emb rton fine c w is a chur h . I t contains on N . all o f e we — chanc l a ll preserved brass John Mordon , R e ctor Eton C olle e -1 g (Windsor Station , 2 Slough 111 Station, m Approaching from Slough one notes at “ th e e of I nn o n the th e Princ Wales , right of

u u t h e station . a Slo gh road , abo t a mile from , bran c h road whi c h leads to Salt Hill (J th e ” e e of th e sc n e old E ton masque rade of Mont m . The re has be en no c ere mony on the famous 12 5 BUCKI NGHAM SHI RE

18 w mound since 44, after hich year that royal - w and time honoured, but some hat disorderly, s festival wa abolished by Provost Hodgson . or Originally part of a religious initiatory rite, the procession had become a gorgeous fancy-dress “ ” - wh o pageant , and the Salt bearers , held u p travellers o n the surrounding turnpikes an d claimed money used to collect latterly 10 0 0 of of about ,4; for the expenses the Captain the School at Cambridge . The land on the l eft S hand ( . ) has been lately bought by the College , and contrasts unfavourably with the more famous fi w eld nearer Eton , hich is compl etely surrounded by el ms, and forms in consequenc e the most f beauti ul , but to cricketers not the most satis of - factory , English cric ket grounds . A very picturesque vi ew o f the soft reds and greys of the Coll ege buildings is gained from the second of the two littl e bridges over which the road passes ; and , beyond this brook the ” w — ou road runs between the historic all (S. ) the other side of which the annual struggl e b e

' tween the Collegers and Oppidans in the most — primitive o f all football -games takes plac e and “ w s the Field (N . ) ith its background of Five fe w - Courts . A old red brick houses on the l eft, “ ’ ” one labell ed Weston s to c omme mmorate “ ” where Bishop Weston li ved as Usher and “ w f 16 - 1 0 N e w Fello rom 93 7 9, the Schools ( 186 3) on the right and we are in the heart w of Eton . Every building ithin sight is occupied by the Coll ege and a fe w paces to the l eft bring ” s w u through the arch into the Schoolyard, here ,

on the right hand , stands the chapel . 126

ET ON COLLEG E

Only a sketch of the history of this most famous school can be attempted here . Built within touch of his favourite castl e o f Windsor “ by the pious King, Henry VI . , as the first e of o n o f pl dge his devotion to God, the lines ’ Wa nfl e te s its y Coll ege at Win chester, and , li ke model , closely bound to a Coll ege at the Uni “ ’ of a o f versity, The King s College our L dy ” Eton beside Windsor, as it is styled in the Royal o f Charter Foundation has come, i n spite o f f early attempts at su ppression , to hold the ore o m st position among public schools . As origi nally a planned, the royal Coll ege embraced semi nary for h secular pri ests , and, as adjuncts to t is, a school for boys and an al mshouse (lik e that at th e Charterhouse) for paupers ; but the school soon usurped the name and revenu es o f the older tripl e institution . M uch eccl esiastical circu mstan ce was thrown round the twin Colleges at Et on and w Cambridge by three Papal Bulls , hich the King f obtained rom Eugenius IV . , conferri ng special

“ i on priv leges Eton Church . Seventy poor f of of scholars ormed the nucl eus the school , six whom were brought from Winchester by Wayn of wa flete , M aster Winchester and after rds “ ’ ” of Provost Eton . The King s Scholars still number seventy ; but about them there n ow “ ” a cluster some thousand Oppidans , for a sm ll of W i number hom the Founder made prov sion . For many years after the laying of the first ” of ne w 1 1 stone the chapel , early in 44 , the dis mantl ed old parish c hurch of Eton nestled under s the buttresses of its stately succe sor , and the old — c hurchyard in whic h it stood part of th e present 12 7 BUCKINGHAM SHIRE

— Schoolyard was used for burials eve n in the “ 16 . e th century The chapel , in fact , continu d to be the parish church until late in the l gth 1 0 0 c entury . I n 5 the Coll ege buildings consisted “ ” o f old the chapel and hall , the kitchen , and

of . the greater part the N . and E sides of the cloisters the Collegers being probably housed o n e and taught the S . side of the pr sent School ” if w yard . The Oppidans , there ere any, lodged “ w two i n the to n ; and i nstructors , a Master “ h ” and Us er , controll ed the education . Addi s w Th e tion ere soon made to the buildings . ” w present Long Chamber, hich used to run the ” o f w . hol e l ength of the S side the Schoolyard, and at one time provided sl eeping accommodation “ ” for all the Collegers and the Lower School - w 1 0 0 0 . w ben eath it , ere erected in 5 5 T elve “ ” years later the E . side of the Schoolyard, containing a room intended for a library ’ and was c om the present Provost s Lodge , ple te d ; but the tower did not assume its present e e e 1 6 w pictur squ appearanc till 7 5, hen the clock was moved from on e of the chapel buttresses to its present position and the bell turret added . For n early two c enturies building remained at was w a standstill , though the school gro ing in of numbers . The turmoil the Civil Wars had ff on w littl e e ect the C oll ege, o ing to the scrupulous fidelity of the Fellows to whichever w party was in po er . They contributed ship w w money to Charles I . ith the same zeal ith w saw hich they John Rous , the Provost , made e 111 16 Speak r 53 , and finally elected to the Upper 128

BUCKINGHAM SH I RE

— Well esl ey and Wellington a microcosm o f all the brillianc e of the century in which the was o f empire being built . The genius her sons cannot perhaps be ascribed entirely to their w - w school training, although the ell kno n eulogy o f the playing - fie lds which is ascribed to

Wellington is not without authority . Not only were the masters as a body littl e capabl e o f or inspiring enthusiasm for classics character, but their numbers were ridiculously meagre and the sports with which the boys filled their f spare ti me were o ten degrading . The condition “ ” of Long Chamber was scandalous ; and th e w w ffi schoolrooms , hich ere su cient for the 2 0 0 16 80 w too fe w boys of , ere not thought ’ or too confined for the 80 0 of H awtrey s ’ time Yet some of Eton s not l east distinguished sons were educated under the mild w o f rul e of Goodall , and the holesome discipline f of Keate in the first hal last century . Shell ey as w , as might be expected , unhappy at Eton ; but Gladstone n ever lost his love for his “ ” o f glorious school . The memory Keate, that great headmaster without a mention of whom no sketch o f Eton can have any pretence to com le te ne ss p , is still green , though h e retired o f seventy years ago . Anecdotes his grotesqu e figure and ferocious temper are l egion ; but the ’ classical portrait of him occurs in his pupil s

Eotoen. The period of reform began with Dr Hawt rey “ 1 8 N e w in 34 . The Buildings , containing for e e w 18 6 extra rooms the coll g rs , ere built in 4 “ ” h e N ew w un t Schools , ith their Russian g , by 130 ETON COLLEGE

186 3 and large additions have been made in “ w c w the last t enty years , su h as the Lo er ” “ ’ ” ’ Chapel and the Queen s Schools i n K e ate s

Lane , the turning opposite the chapel . Only in flood ti m e does the accommodation now prove ffi 10 0 0 insu ci ent for the boys . M uch of the history o f E ton lies written i n c h a el her buildings , and the p is its best epitom e . The structure covers every c entury from the 1sth ’ th e 2 0th e e to . The founder s scheme proj ct d a ’ e e state ly fan as broad as King s Chap l , Cambridge , e fe e e — e and som thirty t long r as large , p rhaps , th e as many English Cathedrals , and unique in ’ e e e H e simpl grand ur of its d sign . But nry s pious ’ designs were rude ly upset by E dward I v. s suc e th e u e e cess s , and ch rch remain d half compl ted “ e (by a choir without a nav . The ante was e 1 - 1 82 c hape l add d 47 9 4 , as the only s e possible ubstitute for the visionary‘ nav , suffi cient funds not being forthcoming after the f ’ ounder s eclipse . The niches behind Provost ’ Goodall s stat ue are all that remain of the once

e - e f num rous pre R ormation altars . The screen was 188 2 of who built i n , i n memory Etonians e Z f w f ll in the ulu , A ghan and first Boer ars ; the respl endent organ is equally modern . After ’ Wayn fl e t e s design the interior of the nave was w low originally fitted ith , uncanopied stalls , leaving space b e low the string courses of the windows for Fl emish frescoes of saints and n w l egendary heroines . These early painti gs ere whitewashed by the College barber in 1 56 1 and w s at the same time the high altar a destroyed . In 17 0 0 they were pan ell ed over by Provost 13 1 B UCK INGHAM SH IR E

we re - e G odolphin , but re discover d in a damaged 18 t wo e e condition in 47 , and y ars later , in spit ’ of th e r c e n w e P in Co sort s e xertions, they er t e - e e th e re e a Th conc al d by p s nt canopied st lls . e mod e rn d e coration o f th e chape l is on the whole un Th e fine e w e e happy . l ctern , hich dat s at l ast from 1 8 the a m of e e 4 7 , and pl in to b Sir H nry Savill ,

1 6 - 16 2 2 o n th e wa e Provost 59 , S . ll ofth sacrarium are e e th e e th e int r sting , latt r from its contrast to e u of u laborate mon ment his s ccessor , Thomas ’ Moravius r w ( Mur ay) , hich faces it . L upton s c e on of e e hap l , the N . side the chap l , is d corated with th e re bus (th e l e tters L U P on a tun) o f th e Provost ( 1 50 4 in whose honour it was u th e w of c e are th e n e b ilt . On W . all this hap l am s o f wh o e the f E tonians f ll in South A rican War . f n o . Note the painti g Sir Galahad by G . F Watts , and tape stry r e pre se nting th e Adoration o f the — e e u e e . Magi , d sign d by B rn Jon s Of th e many brass e ffigl e s there now remain but those commemorating 1 a e e - 1 8 ( ) Thomas B rk r , Vic Provost , 4 9, N . f e e n o organ scr . 2 e t 1 0 w of ( ) H nry Bos , Provost , 5 3 , E . all u a e L pton Ch p l . de n e w 1 0 of ( 3 ) Richard Ar , F llo , 5 9, N . organ

scree n . r e D e 1 2 1 (4) Richard , L o d Gr y Wilton , 5 , S . c e e of o rgan s r n . W B ontrod of Windsor ( 5) illiam , Minor Canon , f r an c e e 1 2 2 o o . 5 , S . g s r n ith Fe llo w 1 N o f r an c e 6 m 2 . o S . ( ) Walter , , 5 5, g s re n ( 7 ) F emal e e ffigy (probably wife o f H e nry f c e 1 2 8 . o s e Smith), 5 , S organ r n 13 2

BUCKI NGHAM SHI RE

o n e meagre kennels the ground floor, a still mor - W N . we meagre cock loft in the . to r and the “ old w w - Lo er School , ere the only class rooms for provided the school , although the numbers had more than doubled in the preceding 17 0 “ N ow years . Upper School is only us e d on occasions when the greater part o f the school has o n e for to be coll ected in room , or Speeches during th e Christmas and Easter halves and on ’ of I II s the great festival King George . birthday, ” th of ld no . o w the 4 June The Library, used - for as a class room Sixth Form , and , as the block e w for b ars itness, corporal punishments , is also w w th e e ainscoted ith names , and solid staircas w e e l eading do n to the schoolyard carri s on the tal . f- About hal way along the N . side of the school

- yard there is an opening, Fourth Form Passage, ’ ” w l eading to Weston s Yard, and ithin it a door f of on the l e t . This door l eads to the domain the w “ w ” lo er master, Lo er School , built in the first of years Henry VI I I . The incongruous double row o f Jacobean pillars which adorn i t wer e set 16 0 up by Provost Sir Henry Wotton abou t 3 , to f “ ” support the floor o Long Chamber . They ’ we e Wo tto n s r hung, according to Isaak Wal ton , at e xpense with pictures of the most famous orators o f was and historians Greece and Italy . Wotton contemporary as a Fellow with the ever - me mor wh o abl e John Hal es , lies buried in the church yard under a square sarc 0 ph agus sadly worn by o n of time . The staircase the right Fourth ” “ e Form Passage l eads up to Long Chamb r, “ now divided into rooms and cubicl es or stalls . Within the memory o f men now living it was 13 4 ETON COLL EGE

f e nd f open rom end to , and contained fi ty beds , and by the side of each the tall lead -coloured d e sk which held all the worldly goods o f the colleger . ’ of w East the schoolyard , beyond Lupton s To er, lie Th e w the cloisters . three sides , hich contain ’ the Provost s Lodge with its gall e ry of eminent w ’ Etonians , the (Fello s ) L ibrary and the Head ’ th e master s house , are private . On S . side stands the Hall ( 144 8 o n e of the earliest o f the e Colleg buildings , and in the main unal tered e Th e e o f sinc its erection . fir places are part the e e 16 - e original structur , and arly th century pan l un Th e e ae v ling runs ro d the walls . m di al c haract e r of th e building is re fl e cte d in th e L atin grac e whi c h is still ch ant e d be fo re e e e e e e e meals . Som alt rations have b n mad r c ntly, and the high - pitche d roof and P e rpe ndic ul ar W w n w e the e e e . i do , as w ll as scr n b hind th e f are a e e . high table , b r ly fi ty y ars old D ownstairs is th e old kitche n with its e laborate 18th - u e e o f th e u e cent ry spit , wh re a r lic r d r habits of e arli e r days can b e see n in one of th e two - sided platte rs forme rly used in

Hall . Th e buildings whi c h stand apart from the and e not a school yard cloist rs do cl im a long visit , with the e x ception of th e S chool Hall in “ ” was e e e e Cannon Yard . This r ct d in m mory of who fe ll in the war in S o uth A Th e n w fri c a . S chool L ibrary i s o in an adjoining building . Most visitors will have s e en e nough of Eton in th e c u chapel and the buildings whi h s rround it . we ve h e e t Those, ho r , w o d sir to ex end their 13 5 BUCKINGHAM SHI RE

e survey can enter the playing fi lds , and take the w w o r al k through them to ards Datchet , in the reverse direction follow Common L ane to the ’ school drill hall (right hand). K eate s L ane diverges into Eton Wic k Road on the right, in which are the old Fives Courts and to e w o n f w e South M ado Lane the le t , here in ord r o n r - the right are laboratory, conce t room and “ ” o n f w science school , the l e t , L o er Chapel , a w - fo r plain but ell proportioned structure , built the ’ f w Blomfield s our hundred lo er boys , from designs 8 1 1 . o f i n 9 , and music room The houses the ’ e masters are chiefly grouped round Keat s L ane . E tbor e Edro y p (Domesday, p), a haml et in the of n parish Waddesdo , possessed a fine Manor o f House, the home the Dynhams , Dormers wh o w and Stanhopes , successively o ned the

. was w 18 12 manor It pull ed do n i n , by the then of d was a c h a el Earl Chesterfiel . To it attached p , w e was in hich the founder , Rog r Dynham , buried f e f a ter being remov d rom church . was w 1 8 This chapel pul led do n i n 73 , and all ’ traces of Sir Roger Dynham s burying place we r e few w e f lost until a years ago, h n a stone co fin e was on containing his r mains found , and i t a w ffi w now slab ith the e gy in brass , hich is in E th or e Wadd e sdon church (f ee). At y p are the fine hous e and b e auti ful gardens o f Miss

Rothschild .

Farnbam R o al . y (Slough , 3 m ) is a prosperous o n th e l e s o f vi llage upper p the Thames Vall ey . After the Conquest the manor was given to Bertrand de Verdon on the condition of provid ’ ing a glove and putting it o n the king s right 136

EYTH O R PE— FAWL EY

i hand at the coronation , and supporting his r ght w th e was arm , hil e royal sceptre in his hand , and f h rom t is tenure by Grand Sergeantry, Farnham ” obviously received the epith e t of Royal . e n d of The church is at the S . the principal street . I t has been so much restored that there is littl e o r nothing l e ft o f the origi nal building . a on e a c e A sm ll window the N . sid of the ch n l ,

d a a n th e e E E. an o . . e piscin S sid , , app ar to b h e a Th e old w e t e c e . hi f r m ins font , ith t e w e n e w oc agonal st m and bo l , is ornam t d ith a e w are u re f e c f p n ls , in hich q at oils n losing a our e c of e leave d flow r . A brass ins ription som w of e — e e e . int r st is on E all S . aisl both aisl s and — pillars are mod e rn comme morati ng Eustac e M asc o ll c e th e w d a W , l r k of ork s to Car in l olsey u c xf r Piste ll Re a e r (at Christ Ch r h , O o d), and d e in Windsor Castl (d . e o f e The c iling the chanc l is old . a wl m — F e . y (Henley, Oxon , 3 ) Domesday ,

al el ei — - F . This village is in the high country above the Thames Vall ey . The church is quite f unimportant . None o its older portions are l eft w ex cept the to er , but the monument to Sir Jam e s and Lady White lo c ke with r e cum e ffi ie s e o f e bent g , is a notic abl e example Jacob an

e tc . scul pture ; nor should the carvi ng of pulpit , , by Gibbons be overlooked . w e on o f th e Fa l y Court the S . parish close — . e a familiar to the Thames the larg red house , obj ect to those wh o have be e n to H e nl e y — c fo r Regatta is archite turally important , i t was buil t on the site of th e M anor House in ’ 16 8 th e 4 after Wren s designs . During Civil I 3 7 BUCKI NGHAM SHIRE

War the Manor House was the property of Bulstrode White loc ke ( 16 0 5 and in 16 42 ’ was who occupied by Prince Rupert s troops , did so much damage that the house was never again occupied . I t was rebuilt by Bulstrode White ’ 16 88 lock e s son , and sold by hi m i n . ‘ Fenn Stra ord Ble tc hl e 1 —A y tf ( y, smal l and w w uninteresting market to n , ith a long main street in which are a fe w old houses . Around and o f at the N . end this some modern houses have w formed a smal l to n . The church , at N . end in was red brick in debased Gothic styl e , built in 1 0 w e th e was 7 3 , and here Bro n Willis , antiquary, 1 6 0 of w buried i n 7 . At the S . end the to n , f th e Roman remains have been ound , indicating f - existence o a Romano British village .

Fin ert . N E. 6 . g (75 m . Henl ey, and 5 m W N . w w . M arlo ) is a small village lying, ith w of Turvill e half a mil e a ay, at the head the Hambl eden Valley sheltered by the beech -wooded

Chilterns . The church has a large square

N orman tower at W . end with doubl e pack 1 th 6 0 e saddl e roof ( 3 century). It is f et high , and is divided into three stages ; good doubl e w w o n o f indo s each side upper stage , the detail

w E . E i n each varying ; the lo est stage has an . w w o f w W . indo , the details hich are very per w we feet . The narro nave is divided from the to r - In . w by a fin e semi circular arch . the S all are w w o n e o ne two . Dec indo s , original , modern in w w w w the N . all a small indo and arch ay, blocked ,

w E . E w o n . ith an . door ay the exterior The chancel was restored i n 1849 ; the original walls w w e t h e remain . The E . indo is lat Dec . ; in 138

BUCKI NGHAM SHI RE was e 16 1 H e was o f rected in 3 . lord the manor o f e e Ful mer, servant to Qu en Elizab th and

ff . e co erer to King James I and Charl s I . G aw t ott 1 w ( Buckingham , 5m . ) is a haml et ith n a modern church , and is only interesti g as having been the birthplace o f Sir Gilbert Scott ( 18 1 1 t e f was h architect . His ather the first e e e of aw p rp tual curat G cott, and Scott in his R eeolleeti onr gives some sketches o f his native e w villag and its peopl e, hich are interesting as pictures o f rural life in this county at the b e o f See Introduc ginning the last century . also tion , p . 34 . Ga hur N st e w . y ( port Pagnell , 3% m ) is a parish w u u ithout a village . Ho se and ch rch are e e e th e close tog th r , on rising ground S . sid of e f o f f w Ous Valley, l e t hand main road rom Ne port e Pagn ll to Northampton . The church is a w w 18th - retched building, sho ing much century was 1 2 8 rubbish , and buil t in 7 . I t contains a realistic monument by R o ubiliac of Sir Nathan 16 e f Wright ( 54 Lord Keeper, a succ ss ul w w bu t not remarkabl e la yer, hose son , George

e o f 1 0 . Wright , purchas d the estate Gayhurst in 7 4 f e The figures are li e size , the Lord Keep r i n f w c his robes . A more interesting amily hi h is consid e rably connected with Gayhurst was that of the Digbys . Sir Everard Digby, by marriage w M o ulso ith M ary , became its possessor in 1 6 h e 59 . Both and his son are historical

th e one f e th e e e . characters , un ortunat , oth r fortunat F e s e u or e e . . furth r d tails the Introd ction , p 47 Gay hurst H ouse is th e fine st e xampl e of 16th - c e ntury e e dom sti c architecture in North Buck s . The old st 140 GAWCOTT— GRANDBOROUGH

s l u 1 0 0 e portion wa probably bui t abo t 5 . N arly nd of the e at th e e c ntury William Mulso , t h e w th e e u ne w e o ner at tim , b ilt a hous , and aft e r th e fashion of the age it was planne d in th e form of an E in honour of th e th e r we ue e e e n . o Q n , the arli r part formi g S lo r wing and th e ne w porch forming the c e ntre limb . 1 2 e W w In 7 5 G orge right , of hom mention s e e e th e th e h a already be n mad , fill d up space at ba c k of th e E by adding a dining - room and a

- e e u ball room abov , and a grand staircas . Th s th e garde n front illustrate s th e architecture of 18th th e e of th e 16 th the , as main front do s that , the e e ce ntury . In gard n is a sundial engrav d

‘ th e e 16 0 th e of with dat , 7 , and motto the “ ” ue une e th e o f Digbys , Nul q , and n ar front th e e e e w e house a monum ntal p d stal , ith som “ line s To th e M e mory of a B e a utifully Mottl e d ” c w of the 1 Peaco k , follo ing a quaint fashion 7 th and 18 e e th c nturi s . ’ d s r ow G W 8C G C wa Gerr ar C . . ( . . Rail y) is a e e h w pl e asant common and ccl siastical paris , hich forms a us e ful c e ntre for e x cursions into the u n n u u e s rrou di g country thro gh B lstrod Park , to e e — and Chalfont St P t r to F ulmer Stok e . A mode rn district chur c h has be e n built at th e S W w ar . . side of the common , upon hich at v ious points s e ve n roads conve rge . ' Granaoor ou b e 1 m g is a poor villag ( & . from a e a u e Th e st tion) among larg p st r s . church stands on h th e igh ground at S . E . of village , and is mark e d lik e so many chur c h e s in this imme diate r c th e e a w e e dist i t by P . d t ils hich hav been add d 14 1 BUCKI NGHAM SHI RE

w . w at a late date The E . indo is the be st the w of e th e e door ay on the N . side chanc l has dat 1 589

. e e e on it Note the small alabast r pan l in the chanc l , th e 1 - and 5th century chrismatory . G rendon U nder wood e W e e G . 8c (A k man Str t , . 2 was o ld u % m . ) in records Grendon nder Bernwode e w b , a nam hich descri es its position in the low- e w the lying m ado s , not far from high e r th e W w . B ground to , in hich began e rnwood e A it F or st . local couplet says of

G re nden U n de rwode

The e s o n a e ve s o e dirti t t w th t r t d ,

—as hunting men with the Bicester Hounds have — before now found it yet in summer time it is a pl easant straggling village among the green o f w 0 luxuriant elms and hedgero s . Th e church ( ) is of at the W . end the village . It has only a nave, w P w chancel and W . to er, . , ith a turret , and an E E w o n . . door ay S . side . There is a noticeabl e 18th - c entury monument in the chancel to John Pigott of D odde rsh all (died 17 51) by Schee o f fe w off mak er . On right , and a yards , the road to wa w Aylesbury, half y do n the village , is a o f h portion an old house , once the S ip Inn , and ’ nu now called Shakespeare s house . It is ques tionabl of y an interesting bit domestic architecture , of 16 th probably the century, but tradition has it that Shakespeare used to stay here on his way to f w M ueé d do a bout and rom London , and here rote ' ’ N M drummer N i ot r Dr eam otbing and A z g . The o n of story is chiefly based a statement Aubrey, wh o e w w - the antiquarian , liv d ithin t enty six ’ “ years of Shakespeare s death . He says , The ' humours of the constabl e in A M zdrummer 142

BUCK INGHAM SHI RE made some what similar earthworks in the north ’ w , of Hadr_ ian s Wall from the Sol ay to the mouth o f U rbic us w the Tyn e, and that Lollius bet een w of the Forth and Clyde, and the all Antoninus . “ ” w The limes imperii , hich extended from the w on e Rhine to the Danube , and hich in part ran along the summit of the Taunus Range in ’ Germany, is not unlike Grim s Dyke . Some ti m e after the expeditions o f Aulus

A . D was Plautius , in . 4 3 , it possibly considered advisabl e to construct a fortification at some distance from the summit o f the Chiltern range w th e of f w th e belo thickest bel t orest, and here e w f country becam l ess ooded and more ertil e . But it is p e rhaps more likely that in this earth — work we have a relic o f the Saxon age a relic o f the war fare between the several kingdoms— and ff ’ that it may remind us , lik e O a s Dyk e in the w o f e est , the cont st for supremacy among our w Saxon ancestors . For here could the advance of the me n o f M ercia be better resisted than on of the long lin e the Chiltern Hills . On the e other hand, it has been suggest d that this Dyke f is not a ortification at all , sinc e i t does not run along the edge of the hills and in ancient times the n earer to the escarpment of a hill the fortific a w tions ere made , the stronger they became . Therefore it is said i t was no more than a terri to t ial boundary o f the Saxons . In this state o f doubt this interesting arch aeological question must f o f w therefore b e l e t . Nor the ord Gri m has a

f . satis actory explanation been given It may, it “ ” th e w w is said , be no more than Saxon ord itch , thus suggesting that before the Conquest this 144 G RI M ’S DYKE— HADDEN HAM work was considered to be of supernatural origin . It should be born e in mind that th e re are several w th e similar, but l ess important , orks in south ’ o f h of w . England , eac hich is called Gri m s Dyk e '

Or i iner C eltzea . 1 Dr Guest ( g , I I , 49) assu mes a the name to m e n a boundary ditch , but this w has been recently sho n to be quite illusory , R En . H ist . ea . 11. . 6 2 Stevenson ( g , vol xv , p 9) is i nclin ed to regard Grim as a personal name . was th e Grim a common name among Danes , “ if Wo de n w s w e . a h nce Grimsby Again , also kno n was among the Pagan English as Grim , as he e we among the Nors men , might conclude that Grimes -di e was merely the equival e nt of Wodn es ” dic .

G r ove 2 . (Leighton Buzzard , m ) is a parish f 1 with a population o only 9. I t has a small and

w c . unimportant church , hi h contains an old font add nbam G C w H e ( . Rail ay) is a large and we e e a . important villadg n arly %2 mile long The lo r rs h e part calle Churc End , the upp r part is e o f T own e nd e dignified by the nam . Ex c pt its size there is nothing specially notic e abl e in are of Haddenham . The houses n early all buil t W or W o f w hat is call ed mud i chert , a speci es hite w clay, hich dries into hard blocks and mak es good w . alls The c hurch is a striking building, facing E E w e the large green , the . . to er b ing the best of speci men in the county a tower i n this styl e .

I t has a good arcade round the upper storey, and w on - w w belo , W . face , is a three light indo . The w o f chancel arch , hich is an interesting piec e N Transitional . , seems to be the most ancient part K 145 BUCKINGHAM SH I R E no w re Th e c e E E . . e are maining ar h s and pi rs . , e D P . e are e e . as is the chancel Th r . and w w e e D e c . indo s on ach sid , and a porch . The e e the w w font is lat N . In spit of P . indo s Hadd e nham chur c h r e mains a fi ne r e lic of

. w of e arly Gothic archi t e cture . On the S all the Lady Chapel is th e hal f e fligy o f a pri e st in (c . and incorrectly placed under i t an G lls Wo dbr e scription to y yg and Elizabeth , his w fe e fli ie s w . i , the g belonging to hich are lost On the same wall is another brass commemorating

N assh 1 2 8 . Thomas , priest , 4 H alton is a pictur e sque group o f cottag e s in the o f 2 o f e park Halton House , m . N . W ndover . 18 1 The church built in 3 , is charmingly w w situated , but is very ugly ithin and ithout . th e w o f On N . all chancel , behind hangings , is a ffi of Bradsh awe f of brass e gy Henry , Chie Baron 1 the E xchequer, 553 . Halton House is a conspicuous obj ect betwee n the village and the Chilterns . The fine shrub h are w of eri es and plantations orthy notice . Homaleden m 1 f (Henl ey, 3} . ; and m . rom Thames Hambleden Lock) is a beautiful piec e of e - w landscap , the red roofed cottages , ith w w f - f dormer i ndo s and so t toned roo s , having a o f background rich foliage and rising hill . So w w ooded is the parish that Lipscomb, riting in 18 w 1 2 0 0 47 , says that there ere then about acres o e f beec hwoods . It is plac d qui te in the hollow o f w e the valley, and a charming Vie is gain d on the road from Hambl eden Lock . The Manor of House, Opposite E . end church , is a marked w f feature , ith its high gables rising rom the ivy . 146

BUCKINGHAM SHI RE

’ den s time , and the church still standing in the of w o ne shade the surrounding trees , under hich sees the pl easant prospect of the extending park . Both church and house are inseparably associated w of ith the family Hampden , and more especially w For roe ith the patriot . ( John Hampden , In t roduc tion . , p The Hampden family possessed the estates from w w was the Conquest , hen Bald yn de Hampden 1 w in possession , till 7 54, hen through female descent they passed to a cousin , the Honourabl e wh o o f Robert Trevor, took the name and arms 18 2 Hampden . In 4 the Honourable George of Robert Hobart , sixth Earl Buckinghamshire, H am de ns the n ext heir of the p , succeeded to the on 18 property, and bequeathed it his death , in 49, w to his nephe , George Hampden Cameron . — a e w low But although the house larg , hite, — battl emented building stands o n the elevated site (7 00 feet) of the old mansion of the H ampde ns this was almost entirely pulled down and rebuilt — in 17 54 the existing building cannot therefore w in detail be associated ith John Hampden , nor of does i t contai n anything in the nature pictures , prints or furniture which can be connected with him . Queen Elizabeth stayed here o n one of h er numerous progresses , and there is a tradition that she suggested that a way should be cut through w w the oods , hich is said to have given the ’ of present avenue the name the Queen s Gap . ’ Hampden is the Burnham o f Black s novel of

The church (key at thatched cottage across 148

BUCKI NGHA M SHI R E

the H am de ns of - e e a e e to p a long d part d g . Near st the “ a -railsare e e ffi ie s of H am de n e s u e r ltar th brass g John p , q y ff ” . e w e . (d and E lizab th , hys y This is the oldest th e e Hampden monument in church . On anoth r slab, e th e of th e c h ancel is armour with n ar middle , a knight in , two e e w . his iv s This is Sir John Hampd n (d . H am den L ittle e e e of a p , (G r at Miss nd n , 3 consists ve r small ch urch and fe w e e y , a scatt red farms and cottag s . Th e u 0 f e ch rch ( ) is m . N . o th main road from Missen de n th e . e e to Risborough , on W sid ofa valley v ry char acte ristic of th e e w w Chilt rn H ills , ith its oods and light a e e e fe u of ar bl land . I t has scarc ly any archit ctural at res e e h owe ve r a re e int rest . Not , , markabl piscina and a small e o f on th e w of e figur an ecclesiastic S . all chanc l . The mural paintings bro ught to light in 190 7 are important e e e be th e e e r e e . w th r app ar to four s ri s , the a li st is on E all of th e e o n e e re d u Th e e nav a d p gro nd . figur of St e e e e th e of th e Christoph r is four tim s r peat d , that to W .

. w th e e e e e a N door ay in nav is an arly xampl , and prob bly he e dates from t latter part ofth e re ign of H nry I I I . (On e se e R ecor ds o B ueér this subj ct f , vol . ix . p . Ham/o e e r e 1 m — in e a p (Castl tho p , 35 . ) Dom sd y, H ame sc le — a e e e e u I t is a l rge villag on a br zy plat a . is e to th e rde of orth am tonshire and th e clos bo rs N p , co unt ry around r e pre s e nts the pure ly midland part of E ngland rathe r than th e wide m e adows o f Ce ntral B uc k in h amshire f w of t he e are e . e c g A older cottag s that h d , but re d bricks and bl ue slate s are gradually ousting th e e a th e e e 1 c l ss modern m terial . In middl of th 9th entury a e e - H nslope contain d many lac mak e rs . L ipscomb says 0 0 we e w e h e w e e a e 5 persons r , h n rot , ng g d in this a -da e re are e a occup tion ; to y th not mor th n fifty . A fte r th e Conquest the manor was pre s e nte d e e Wine war to a soldi r from F land rs named , and late r we h e ar of Michae l de Hanslope being 150 LITTLE HAM PDE N— HANSLOPE

e e e its poss ssor , and his daught r carri d it by marriage t o th e Mauduit family Th e name o f t he manor in D ome sday cannot we ll by any e u e e ing n ity be d e ve lop d into Hanslop , and it is probabl e that Hanslope retains th e appe llation of the most important of its me die val lords . Th e u w e e e u ch rch , ith its sl nd r and grac f l e c u f f one spir , is onspic ous rom a ar . It is of the thre e church e s of th e county which e e e th e hav spir s , and it is unqu stionably most e of th e e e e w admirabl thr . The spir , hich is e e e f w e n arly all mod rn , ris s rom a est rn towe r ( 15th c e ntury) supported by four flying e e e e buttr ss s t rminate d by crock ted pinnacles . e e w The chanc l arch is a fine pi ce of N . ork , and is supported by four pillars with e nriche d

s l . w n ca loped capitals The S . all retai s its 12 th - de bl c onsr ra e . century design, y r stored Th e f th e e o . S . door chanc l has good N

th e . w zigzag ornament , and S all has on r e e the outside a co b l table , partly of b aded e o f e e e ornam nt and partly grot squ h ads , w six e we e e hilst high pillars , having b t n th m e e w h h e e e are round d arch s , hic ave b en r stor d , e e un Th e u notic abl and usual . North and S o th c e are e t - Por h s lat 15 h century wor k . Th e pr e se nt chur ch s e ems to have be e n 11 0 Th e founded about 7 . north and south e w e the 1 e aisl s er added in 3 th c ntury , and the oth e r parts mostly in th e 14th and 15th i e centur s . 151 BU CK INGHAM SH I RE

th e s ffi To N . of the font is a mall brass e gy of a — u e of h child Mary , da ght r T omas Birchmore e e S v ral other brasses may be noted , and 1 - e e some 5th c ntury mural paintings in the nav . e - u e of e the a Thre q art rs a mil to S . E . of the vill ge e e w is Hanslop Park , a small , pl asant and ell e e timb r d park . H ardmead is a s e cl ude d place close to the bord e rs o f B e dfordshire in a quie t agric ultural d of e w istrict , to north main road from N port to B Th e e 0 w ne . dford . church ( ) (Ne port Pag ll , 5 m ) is in a ple asant umbrage ous spot ne ar the Manor e two H ouse , and , though small , has a nav , aisles ,

and . w . a w e W to er (c I t cont ins , ho ev r , a e a — a e in N . isle a notic ble monument recumb nt of nc t and on figure Fra is Ca esby a brass , e e d e w . n all of N . aisl , E , of F rancys Cat sby a we - e th e e n ll portray d figure , fur of the rob bei g a n admirably dr w . - - H ardwick A e u . w e ( yl sb ry , 3 3 m ) is a ell group d — village th e houses cl uste re d round th e church on a littl e e minence just off the main road from Aylesbury

he . to Winslow ; on t E is a valley of meadows . Th e c hurch is interesting because the nave is - e e D e c probably ofpre Conqu st dat the windows ( . ) e are e w e in S . aisl not orthy . Not a good monument

L e e e 16 16 . to Sir R . , di d a rle r d M ano 1 H o r w . yf (Marlo , % m ) is a con spic uous object on a d e lightful sid e stre am of th e e e Thame s be tween T mpl e and Hurl y Locks . The sober and time - coloure d re d brick harmonis e s agre e ably with the fine timbe r which forms the a e w e b ckground . The hous , hich is plac d on an was 1 artificial mound , and built in 7 55 from 152

HARD M EAD— HA RTWELL

e e e o f d signs by Sir Rob rt Taylor , an archit ct e e consid rable reputation in his tim , has a curious f s e micircular projection on its river ront . Its plain simplicity i s an agreeabl e contrast to t he nume rous domestic buildings of the pre sent day e w ff on the Tham s , ith their ine ective straining to be e ue pictur sq . H ar twell H e rde we lle D omesday, (Ayles we bury , m . ) consists to all intents of the Hart ll u e w H o s and Park , and the church hich stands in the N W e Th e s the grounds to . . of the hous , L ee , w - w f e already a ell kno n Buck s amily , cam into e th e 16 1 e a poss ssion of property in 7 , and hav ret ined A th e e of it to this day . mong memb rs a capable

c e e . L e e wh o family the most noti abl is Sir W , e u e 1 1 b came L ord Chi e f J stic in 7 3 7 , and in 7 54 the u e e Chancellor of E x cheq er , but di d in the sam Sir th e e e e year . Thomas L ee built pr sent hous arly e in th e 17th century on th e site of on much older. On the staircase are twenty- four curious figures e e e e l e the e r pr s nting H rcu s , F airi s , and Knights w w r carved in oak , hich probably e e placed there w was u Th e ue hen the house b ilt . banq ting hall is now e of f u a mus um ossils and E gyptian c rios , and there are a numbe r of family portraits . Th e e e most noticeabl are by Vandyck , L ly and Rey nolds A e . good view of Hartwell Hous is obtained from the footpath to Stone (see). Hart w a of e e e ell has obt ined a kind fam , b caus L ouis e XV I I I . lived there from 180 9 until his r turn e 18 1 Th e e we to F ranc in March 4 . gard ns re originally laid out in the formal styl e with t e rraces w e and an artificial lake , hich still r mains , though e ta e the garden has been put into a mor natural s t .

I 531 BU CK I NGHAM SHI RE

The of n e e was u church is no i t r st . I t b ilt by Sir

. L e e of th e 8 e u W (fourth Bart . ) at the end 1 th c nt ry o n the e site of an anci nt church . I t is an imitation o f the Chapte r H ous e at York and of th e ceiling ’ of e e K ing s Colleg , Cambridg . H a ven /Jam n 1 a e (Wolverto , % m . ) is a small vill g in a seclude d hollow in a we ll - c ultivat e d and varie d m t nshire N ortha o . district , not far from p Th e 0 of e e church ( ) is the only point int r st . I t e e th e e e is d lightfully situat d above villag , surround d e we but not overshadowed by fine tre s . The to r and of e are N th e th e u part the nav . , rest of b ilding is of e e e e th e u fu 1 th lat r dat . Not specially bea ti l 4 e e w c century monument on N . sid of chanc l , hi h is e w e probably that of E lizabeth , L ady Russ ll , hos

was u e Kut. fourth husband Sir John R ss ll , She had previously married , firstly, R obert L ord e of R o th e rfie ld e Gr y ; s condly, Sir John Clinton , Kut de . ; and , thirdly , Sir John Birmingham, and by h e r will dire cte d her body to be e e c buri e d in church . B n ath a ri hly e w e e th e Dec . canopy lies , carv d in hit alabast r , — fig ure of an age d woman h e r dre ss has be e n — worked with singular care b e ne ath are high the of the relief figures . In floor chancel e w e e is a brass , consid rably orn , r pr senting a e e e sk l ton , a m morial to John Maunsell on w e m e and the S . all is anoth r co m morating e w e 1 2 a Alic , if of Thomas Payn, 4 7 . In

th e 1 - c s field E . of 7 th entury Manor Hou e , w e w hich is clos to the church , is a dovecot ith th e 1 6 date 6 5. d e H awri ge (church 3 m . from Ch sham) con sists of some scatte r e d house s with th e long 154

BUCKI NG HAM SHI R E

Th e e d e e fragments of a shi l , ngrav d w n now ith a representation of the Resurrectio , are the s kept at the Rectory . On N . side are brasse f of Robert F ulmer and Joanna , his wi e s now w There is a curiou relic , framed , hich , e according to tradition , is a piec of a cloak of w as Charles I L , hich he gave an altar cloth . Th e octagonal font P with the Tudor rose and small r e lie fs of faces probably cut on a 1 2 th

c e u w e . nt ry bo l , is int resting H edsor I (Bourne End Station , i m . ) is a w o f parish hich has no village, but the interest w hich is centred in Hedsor Park and church . The house is built on the site o f the old Manor o n House , in i mitation of a castl e , the su mmit of a ff hill , and is not ine ective in the landscape . w The church is on another hill ithin the park , to o f the S . the house . It has no architectural value , the arches and piers being all that i s left of e the original medi val church . The quaint w f dovecot belfry and the arm roo , the trees about it and the distant views over Cookham and the of th e w valley Wye give it , ho ever, a character o f o wn is e w f its . I t r ached by a path ay rom the drive which enters from the Taplow and e h o are Wooburn Road . F or thos w boating it is pl e asant to land at the stage of the weir w w close to Cookham Lock , and follo the path ay to the road . This wal k can only be taken by wh o for those are actually going to the church, w w other ise strangers are not allo ed to land . o f f Note in passing the luxurianc e the oliage, and especially a spl endid specimen of cupressus L aw soniana w , sho ing the fine nature of this commonly 156 HEDSO R— HILLE SDE N

ffi used but insu ciently appreciated tree . As to - w the Romano British pile d elling, discovered in 18 0 95, near Cookham Lock , s ee Introduction p . 3 . Hillesden m — in (Buckingham , 3§ . ) Domesday, — Th e Ilesde n e . absurd way i n which o ur fore fathers derived the meaning of plac e names is ’ well illustrated by Browne Willis ass e rtion that w w of Hillesden signifies the do ny hill , hereas ,

t e rminatiofi . . for w course, the dene is A S a hollo and the prefix Il e is probably the name of a e b e person . Hillesden may, p rhaps , considered out- of- - wa the most the y plac e in the county . h two The churc , the parsonage and a cottage or form the centre of a parish of abou t 2 0 0 in W w f habitants , hil e the road , hether rom Preston w Bisset or Ga cott , is through grass fields and lines of To o f gates . the E . from the corner the churchyard there is a way over grass through an w avenu e a mil e long, hich disappears i n an aim o f f low- i e w l ess sort ashion into the ly ng m ado s . f f At the end , a ter a turn to the l e t among w w f hedgero s , the ay arer comes u pon a reedy of w tri butary the Ouse, and is greeted ith a notice that the ford which he has reach ed w is dangerous for vehi cl es . Ho ever, there is a safe footbridge and then a good road to

Verney Junction . But i n this remote place is w the finest P . church in the county, ith the ’ o f exc eption only Maids Moreton . The tithe of the church belonged to the monks of Notley was Abbey , and i t by them that the present was s church built . A complain t wa made at the ’ Bishop s visitation in 1493 that the church was of very ruinous , and that the Abbot Notl ey ought I S7 BUCKI NGHAM SHI RE to f amend it , and he there ore rebuil t it , and his work remains whil e scarcely a stone is l e ft o f the abbey by the Thame . w of w The eak part the building is the to er, w of a e e hich is poor, and p riod earli r than the body ’ o f w the church , hich , to use Sir Gilbert Scott s “ w e of e ords , is an exquisite sp cimen the lat st f ” phase o Gothic art . The elementary idea o f this church is a nave with small transepts and e e a chanc l , but a chantry chapel being add d to

. of of e w the N the chancel the same l ngth ith it, of two w and a sacristy storeys , ith a large stair o n e f o f th e turret in corn er, the uni ormity first sch e me is lost . E xternally the two most striking f N E eatures are the porch and the . . stair w on e o f turret , hich is the fin est in E ngland . The i nterior is harmonious and uni form in treat th e w m ent , arches and supporting columns bet een the chan c e l and chantry being especially notice

e . e of abl The rood scre n , same date as the e church , is remarkable It has three arch d bays , e f w e of each subdivid d into our lights , ith trac ry gr e at beauty . I n the chancel is a fine monument ( 1555) to Thomas Denton and his lady (he died in 156 0 ) o f th e o f alabaster, and having all character

Renaissanc e work . I nteresting also is the old stain ed glass in th e w w of 1 E . indo , containing figures sa nts , bishops w e and popes , hich has b en regarded by authorities of 1 as work done at the end the 5th century . Still more noteworthy is the glass in the fo ur uppe r

o f th e w w t e . w lights E . indo of h S transept , hich has e c t e w be n alled h S t Nicholas indo w. In this are 158

BUCKI NGHA MSHI RE dignified churc h and the tiny parish to which it belongs . Hitt bam w 1 m — (Taplo Station , . ) Domesday, — H uc h e h am. The old church is its c hi ef attrae tion (key at schoolhouse close by), and is delight fully situated . The churchyard is enclosed by an old low - w 16 8 1 , , red brick all ( On the - o f right hand side the road running W . there is a

w . pl easant vi e to the N over Hitcham Park , and

- N E. low w to the . , overlooking t he lying all ed f gardens o the old Manor House . There are no of w 160 2 remains the fine mansion here , in , Queen Knt Elizabeth visited Sir William Clark e, . , and which at a later date was own ed by the noted w wh o physician and riter, Dr John Friend , is famous as on e of the remarkabl e grou p of men of letters and statesmen wh o were gath e red round Harl ey and Bolingbrok e in the last years o f the o f reign Queen Anne . More fortunate than most o f f his Tory ri ends , he obtained an appointment of e in the Court G orge I . N was The church , originally . , rebuilt in the w w o f 1 . . 4th century . Note the fin e Dec E indo w t wo e e four lights , ith large quatr foils and a whe l e w above th m , filled ith old stained glass (c . more fragments of which will be se en in the w h h e r other windo s in chancel . T ese ave slend w e e a columns ith ornam nt d capit ls . High up in w u u w w the S . all note the c rio s circular indo , e the w rec e ntly restor d , and in same all a

fine N . the piscina and sedilia . A arch divides n e a e chancel from ave . Not in l tt r four N . - two . S . the c windows , blocked , N and also arved

w the . pul pit ith canopy , and in vestry , N of 16 0 HITCHAM— HOGSTON

old of chancel an chest . In the floor chancel are old w w som e encaustic til es . The Dec . i ndo w w was over W . door ay in to er originally i n the - w o f nave The deeply moulded door ay S . porch has a fine oak door with large loc k and key and handsome designs in iron work . On w o f e N . all chanc l is an alabaster monument to e Sir W . Clarke (di d Under a canopy, each side o f which a knight holds back a marbl e cur f - e f of tain , is the li e sized r cumbent e figy a man w in armour, and belo , in front , are other figures , e f w mal and emal e , kneeling . On the S . all e opposite is a monument to Rog r Alford, (died 1 80 two w 5 ) kneeling figures , man and oman , and h e e w children behind . On t chanc l floor is a ell e 1 1 preserved brass to Nicholas Clark , 55 . The ffi e gy depicts a man in armour, his head resting on f t wo on a shield ; to his l e t , sons, and right a th e of two daughter . In floor nave are brass

e fli ies . w g of Thos Ramsey and his ife Margaret, 1 10 w 5 , and belo their four sons and three daughters . H o erton w m — gg (Winslo Station , 3}4 . ) D omesday, — H oche stone is a small village half a mile from w w the main road , bet een Aylesbury and Winslo , o n high ground . The church has been restored . Note ( 1) the old porch with the now worn 2 w w timber ( ) the N . piers (3) some Dec . i ndo s . P of The effi gy o f the founder ( . ) the church in a w w . niche is in the N . all of chancel He holds hat may perhaps be the model of a church between his clasped hands . This has been supposed to represent William de Birmingham (di ed The De Birminghams possessed the manor from L 16 1 BUCKI NGHAM SH I RE the beginning of the 13th to the be ginning of the 16 th w h century , hen it passed by marriage to t e Bulstrode s e u was e f usri e . Walt r de B lstrode Chi J c ’ th e e 1 8 but one no of King s B nch , 34 , can w only conj e cture whom this figure is intended to repres e nt a we e was o ne prob bly , ho v r , it of the family . The e the w Manor Hous to S . E . of the church , ith its h e no w was igh chimn ys and gables , a farm , built 16 2 0 ; e 18th e u c . , and r stored in the c nt ry . H orn Hill — A e w haml t , ith a small modern 1 o f e e church , 3 m . E . Chalfont S t P t r . H orrenden e u e e (Princ s Risboro gh , Great W st rn

w 1 . of ur Rail ay, m ) consists a ch ch a mansion h e 18 10 e of an u ous built in on the sit old b ilding , and a fe w cottage s grouped in th e low- lying me adows we e w P u Th e bet en Bl dlo and rinces Risboro gh . small ivy - cove re d c hurch c onsists only of a chance l w w w the e was e ith P . indo s ; nav d molished in 6 e w was u the 1 7 5, and the pr sent W . to er b ilt from e e 16 - e e e ston s of the nav . Note the th c ntury scr n and the e e ne mod rn font of Ca n sto .

H or ton u 1 . 1 (Wraysb ry , % m , % e e the m . ) is a scatter d villag among brook s and w w w e o f the w meado s , the illo s and lms lo er e e Tham s Valley . The place is full of inter st as 16 the home o f Milton from 16 3 2 to 3 7 . His e u e e e are fath r had a ho s her , but no trac s of it e f wh o e l t . His mother , Sarah Milton , di d in April 6 u e c 1 . 3 7 , is b ri d in the hurch The inscription , now w h e r e be e much orn , on tombston can still s en h e in the floor of t e chanc l . A s to Milton and Th e r e o . . Horton , e Introducti n , p 55 church

the 8 e nd o f the e e e . at . villag , is of som importanc 1 16 fine The north doorway (c . 5) is a e xample 16 2

BUCKI NGHAM SH I R E

n the e e or Of e Purgi g of S v n Sins , the Morality Prid d au 16 u an e . her Six D ghters , probably th c nt ry W H u henden G . 8c G C g (High Wycombe , . . . Rail w 1 t e e v e ays , 3 m . ) is a sca t r d parish , ha ing for its c ntre e the church and manor in contiguity, and around th se all the e e interest in Hughenden is gath red . That inter st is almost e ntire ly modern and is connected with th e years pass e d at Hugh e nd e n Manor by the late Lord Beacons fie ld 18 w e h e u e , from 48, h n p rchased it , to his d ath in

188 1 . April . It is an attractive and a characteristic spot Th e site of the pre sent house was occupie d by a farm e u 1 8 w th e e e was hous ntil 7 3 , hen stat purchased by a e e wh o e the e Mr Charl s Savag , conv rted old hous into a ’ e e e th e e n was a gentleman s r sid nc , and arabl la d tr ns e e form d into a park . The true and ancient Manor Hous n th e e s w o wa . stood opposit ridge , and kno n as Rockhalls e de a but The modern Hugh n n M nor , roomy not large , s o n th e e tands back of a ridge of the Chilt rns, almost u e w th e w n surro nded by tre s , from hich park , ith ma y fine e e t tr es , falls in a gre n undula ion . In this park , th e o f e e below grounds the hous , but a littl to the u e e th e u e N . , is the church , surro nd d , lik Manor Ho s , by

- e . was e e e 18 th e tre s I t almost ntir ly r built in 74 7 5, S . w N door ay, . , the chancel arch and some other parts of e th e so - ch e th e the chanc l , and called De Montfort ap l , at the c e e e e N . of chan l , b ing all that is left of the m di val D th N W e e e c . e . work , ex c pt a noticeable . font A t . corn r ] the e e ue e nVic toria ofthe chance is monum nt rected by Q , e e w e and a simpl marble tabl t , on hich is inscrib d

To THE D EAR AN D H o nouxs n M EM ORY or BEN D rsna su A L or Bs Ac o usr rnt n 11 mm , E R , this memorial is place d by his grate ful and affe ctionate S ove re ign and friend , Victoria, R . I . Kings love him that speaketh ’ 1 2 th right , Proverbs xvi . 3 . F eb . 7 , 164

BUCK INGHA M SHI RE which l eads to the l evel o f the M anor House and w w thence to the church , a al k hich leads from ’ near th e house of Disraeli s youth to that o f his manhood and old age among picturesque bits of landscape with which he was very familiar . (Ayl esbury , 3 m . ) lies secluded about

m . from the main road . Passing along a lane , w through ide grass fields , you come upon a large

w . green lined ith trees On the S . side is the w e small church ith a lych gate , modern b yond , w beneath the drooping limes hich edge the E . o f w o f end the churchyard , glistens the ater an old o f moat . On the opposite side the green we are pretty cottages , old habitations , ll and comfortably restored . The church is a small

w . building ith a nave, chancel , S aisle and a N W smal l bell turret at the . . corner, and a Dec . w w. E . indo b n 6 66 ft 111 l rto e . , (9 . High Wycombe , 95 E n N . . ow w Henl ey), parish holly in this county, o n of and the borders Oxfordshire, commands — W v w N . o f fine ie s . over the val e O xford , e S . E . over the Hambl den vall ey in Bucks . There e the is is no villag proper , parish scattered and e c e e small , and c lesiastically join d to F ing st . The e e church , standing in a s cluded , isolat d spot , has u e u e w e m ch archit ct ral int rest . I t is small , ith chanc l , e w w be llcot . nave and ood n The S . door ay, v w w w . na e , ith a small indo at W . end , N door wa no w y ( blocked) and font , are all noticeable Th w e w e . w xamples of Norman ork . E indo is E E Th e w w of e a plain . . triplet . S . indo nav and e e chanc l is late Dec . ; the old carv d pulpit is chiefly e - w o n w arly 1 5th century ork , hich note the curious 166 H ULCOTT— I L M E R

- ancient fastening for th e ho ur glass . In th e c N W of r u chur hyard , to . . chu ch , an nusual e e w e e of e b position , is an anci nt y tr r marka ly

e th e e e ffi . large girth , and n ar gat a large ston co n of e or H ibe rtane The Manor I bston , , belonged ’ e e th e a e e of th e to H rv y , Pope s Leg t at the tim N u orman S rvey . [ ef or d e w and f ( Tham , 4 ith v e th e , forms a group of illag s in e w o f the e e e e e m ado s Tham Vall y , rath r r mot and e Th e 0 th e S W e nd lon ly . church ( ) is at . . of th e e e th e c e in villag , clos to vi arag , It is an te re stin u th e g church , b ilt almost entirely in 1 e n th e e 3th c ntury , and early all d tails are w e w e orthy of study It has nav , ith aisl s ,

- e . we w chanc l and W to r ith a saddle back roof, E E 1 - e good . . The nave has early 3th c ntury u w and e w e col mns ith capitals , bas s ith squar I n e s be plinths . the N . aisl hould noted a 1 6 0 f e e ue e window ( c . 3 ) o thr cinq foil d e e e Th e lights , und r a squar h ad . tomb of Thomas Tipping ( 1 595) should not be ove r

e e i w low e . look d , it has som cur ous ork in reli f Th e 16 th e u th e Manor F arm ( c nt ry) , and e are bridg on the road to Tiddington , w t e orth no ic . Ilmer Ilmire — — e (or ) Domesday , Imere ( Bl d low 2 e e th e low- , m . ) is a v ry small villag in lying the e e th e country of Tham Vall y , and forms most distant and the ne are st to th e O x fordshire borde r of th e group of small communities lying be ne ath e w e e e e Bl dlo Ridg , S aund rton , Hors nd n and e w Th e e w e Bl dlo . church is quit small , ith nav , 16 7 BUCKINGHAM SHI RE

e w e e f e chanc l , N . porch and ood n b l ry . Not and th e mod e e 1 th the octagonal font scr n , late 5 16 or early th century . Th e e was th e e nd th e Manor of Ilm r , at of 1 1th e n u e u th e c t ry , h ld by a subfe datory of powe rful Bishop of Baye ux by the s e rvice of ’ e e the w e e w c k ping King s Ha k s , a s rvic hi h con inue d c e u e t for several nt ri s .

[ p er 1 . . . e ( 5 m . W N W W st D rayton Station ) e u one has still , among rath r suburban surro ndings , or t f u Th e e w of th e wo bits o pict re squeness . vi bridge th e e th e th e across Coln , old house by it , and shining wa e e th e c u a t rs of the str am from h rchy rd , is pleasing e e the w c u in the extr m , so is S an Inn . The h rch e e two e e th e (r stor d) has aisl s , and is inter sting from indication it still gives of the infl ue nc e of th e suc ce ssive e e e a e u e styl s of English ccl siastical rchit ct r . Note in this connection the Norman pi e rs and arch e s with th e r e mains of a very early arch in th e E w e e e . E all , S . arch s , doubl piscina and s dilia , . , - tw w e . e o w . and light indo , Dec . , in chanc l , N sid T he . w 1 th e W door ay, late 5 century, and oth r e e e w d tails indicat lat r ork . Within the altar rails is a q uaint Jacobe an e e e e w f monum nt , r pr s nting a oman rising rom her e r a l e 16 1 tomb, a m mo i l to Lady Mary Sa t r , 3 , w e u e two hos husband , F ll forty y ars a carver to e e e e e th e w kings , is r m mb r d by a tabl t in N . all f c e w e o hanc l . Belo thi s florid m morial is a brass u w e 1 0 8 a to Sir R Blo nt and his if , 5 , an admir ble e e o f w the e e xampl ork of b st p riod , though the e l aboration o f th e dre ss o f the figure s is not e e the e u Two -re quall d by that on f at res . bas e f on w e u be e e li s all of S . aisl sho ld not ov rlook d . 168

BUCK I NGHA M SH I R E

we u r to r, s pported in the interior by fou sets e u e w of cluster d col mns , giv s the church ithin e w Th e r a grand ur hich is striking . chu ch ,

. 12 0 no w though built c 3 , is mostly Dec . , with some good windows of that period on th e w . . w the N and S side of nave , but E . indo i the fine w e 1 th s P . Note ood n roofs ( 5 century ) orname nte d with carve d figures of e e tc the fine angels , monk s , panels , boss s , . , and

W . porch . e um On the N . sid of chance l is a mon ent 1 - e e The e under a 5th c ntury rec ss . figur of a e e ffi e e e the priest . Th r is not su cient vid nc of id e ntity of the figure re pres e nte d to enabl e it to e w u e e be stat d hom it depicts , tho gh n dless to say ve ry d e finite statements have hitherto been made e on th point . Th e well -pr e se rve d carving on th e capitals e of the pillars , the quaint and rud carving ( 15th c e ntury) on the standards of the e e e 1 e r mod rn b nches , the arly 7th c ntu y w the u pulpit , ith large and no doubt m ch e u appreciat d hour glass stand , sho ld not e are be overlook d . Within the altar rails

s e w . e ev ral brasses , much orn It is not quit certain that th e inscriptions are rightly allotted th e e fli ie s the e are to g . On S . sid of floor the e ffi ie s c Blac kh e d 1 1 g of Ri hard , 5 7 , and his e e e one wif , Maud , and abov them to 1 6 Th e e fli ie s William Duncombe , 57 . g of e his wive s and childr n are lost . On the e two one N . sid are more brasses , com unc e 1 1 and the me morating Thos . D omb , 53 , 170 IVI NGHOE

1 . of other John Duncombe , 594 To each these f of w the e figy the ife is lost . o f Sir Walter Scott took the titl e his novel , as w of f o f ell as its hero , rom the name the “ ” o f i of village Iv nghoe . The nam e Ivanhoe, was he says in his Introduction , suggested by an old rhyme . Al l novelists have had occasion at or w h w ff some time other to is , ith Falsta , that they knew where a commodity o f good names was to be had . On such an occasion the author chanced to call to memory a rhyme recording three names of the manors forfeited by the ancestor o f t h e c e l ebrated Hampden for stri king the Black Prince a blow with his rack et when they quar rell ed at tennis

T n Win and I van oe ri g, g h , For s ik n of a b o tr i g l w , am e n fo e o H pd did r g , A n d a he c ou e sca e so gl d ld p . It is somewhat curious to note that Scott apparently had forgotten the true name of the i place , as he quotes it incorrectly . The trad tion , o n w was h as too, hich the rhyme founded, been di th e H am de ns w sproved, as p ere never in posses o f t h e sion these manors , and lines have recently o f v been considered as a remnant a ca alier song .

. o f To the S E . the village , beyond some large o f th e intervening fields , rises an outlying piec e

Chilterns call ed the Hills . From the I c k nield Way they are somewhat striking . A w long, high do n is nearest to the main chain , and - e N . E two de fin e d th n to the . are cl early w su mmits , the range concluding i th the bold o f w outline Beacon Hill , hich descends in grassy 17 1 BU C KI N G HAMSH I RE

Ic knie ld w slopes to the Way , here the cross road f e rom Gadsden and Herts l eav s it . This is a striking spot ; a small cl ump of firs live a wind

' o f tossed life . Above them rise the smooth slopes

w . of Beacon Hill , hil e to the N is a panorama outstretching country ext e nding from the wooded f o f borders of Bed ordshire , across the Val e Ayl es o f bury , to the dim heights Ashendon and Brill . The before - mentioned road may be r e ached from f e Ivinghoe by a footpath , though i n act i t is asy w - to find al most any here a cart track . By it the hills can be gained . This road runs up the o f e hillside, past the highest point the Ivingho 8 1 1 f Hills ( eet), and so to Ivinghoe Common ’ 2 f w (7 3 eet), hich touches the Herts border close to Ashridge . These hills are a fine rambling ground ; indeed , E dlesborough is an admirable w or w poin t for the al ker cyclist, hether from or Tring direct , by Aldbury and Ashridge, and e or on f wheth r by road the pl easant tur . ’ ardanr 2 m Beac onsfi e ld 2 7 (Gerrard s Cross , 5 , e w e m . ) is the s cl uded spot her the quaint meeting e of e hous the Society of Friends stands , by the sid of the littl e grav e yard famous far beyond B ucking - f hamshire as t h e burial plac e o William Penn . w w From the ooded dell , upon a corner of hich

- are the graveyard and meeting house , there slopes w o f w a meado , at the head hich , by the side o f the road to Chal font St Giles is a square w o ut- red farmhouse ith picturesque buildings . w h ow 16 0 f w E l ood tells in 7 , in ormers atched “ o f the meeting, then holden at the house o f William Russell , call ed Jourdans , i n the parish ” w Giles Chal font . It is ith this farmhouse that 17 2

JORDANS are inseparably linked many memories of religious enthusiasm and persecution in the beginning and of 1 th for middl e the 7 century, sinc e years either the farm or the meeting -house was the centre where the Quakers from many mil es around met f r o prayer . The littl e bit of meadowland now lined by thickly - growing lime trees was purchas e d in 167 1 on o f th e of 16 88 behalf Society Friends , and in the meeting -house was buil t partly from money f f e N o l e t by the widow o Isaac P nnington . place in Bucki nghamshire is more i nteresting w and suggestive . We still see the shady meado s w ' among the ooded uplands . Across the road is — still the old house of Ston e Dean with a modern — w was part added hich buil t by Peter Prince , a member o f the Society of Friends and a citizen of 16 1 o f London , in 9 , and a quarter a mil e up w old the valley, to ards Seer Green , is another house , Dean Farm , once a Quaker home . The place would at any time be a charming piec e o f w e we se e rural scen ery, but h n the plain head ston e which marks the grave of William Penn ( 16 44 and not e the last resting -plac e o f G ulie lma w w Penn , a oman hose attractive ’ w o f personality lives in E l ood s naive pages , and ’ o f w o f admir six Penn s children , as ell as those w abl e men , Isaac Pennington and Thomas E ll ood , it becomes a unique spot di fficul t to equal in its surroundings of historical interest and charm of

E nglish landscape . A pl easant footpath l eads from close to th e e ntrance gate o f W e lders on th e e e road to Chalfont S t P ter to this villag , greatly e n w e short ni g the distance for alk rs . 173 BUCKI NGHAM SHI RE

Kimble G reat and L ittle , (Kimbl e Great Western Railway and Wendover M e tropolitan w two Rail ay, 3 are adj oining villages . The o f w1th churches are only a quarter a mil e apart, a slight hill between them the plac e was called in Ch e ne b elle Domesday, , and there has been assumed to be some connection between this name and o f Cunob eline that , the British King . Littl e

Kimbl e Church is very interesting, very small , Ic knield and stands j ust above the Way, embayed 1n the finely-timbered slopes o f the park of w Chequers Court . A littl e valley ith a small piece w 1 or of ater crossed by stone bridge, a 7th 18th - f century conceit, is seen rom the E . end th e of churchyard, and gives a compl eteness to of a delightful bit scenery . The church (key at adjoining farm , service once a month) is interesting, because i t remains so compl etely In untouched by the restorer . style it is Dec . (con se c rate d e having only a nave and chanc l ,

. w w not the smal l N and S . indo s , though specially in noticeable , give some harmony to the build g. The e dark open roof, and the faint outlin s , still e discernibl , of the large mural paintings , help to incre ase the fe e ling of antiquity . The oblong block of encaustic tile s in the chancel is inte re st - e ing six subjects in six compartm nts . That on e e e e a e the left is best pres rv d , and s ms to indic t n a king , a knight , and again a ki g . Note an old plain font . t h e W w the Great Kimble lies to . , ith an inn , w c e e Bear and Cross , hi h can be r comm nded , and has e e 0 w w n e a r stor d church ( ) ith to er , av , aisle and

e e De c . e the chanc l , in styl , but quit most interest 174

BUCKINGHAM S H I R E

a e e a considerable p rish in the Tham s Vall y . Its centre is the old - wo rld oasis in the midst of far th e w much cultivated land , not from rail ay w e the and a canal , hich is form d by church , u f e T u almsho ses and a e w cottag s . wo gro ps o f e of now e almshous s red brick , much ton d by e and n e e n tim , exceedi gly pictur squ and interesti g , on e are the N . and S . sid s of the church ; e are e N e u e th y call d the Old and w A lmsho s s . S e e The old ( . ) w re built by Sir John Ked r 16 1 th e ne w of minster in 7 ; , N . church , we 16 6 16 8 bet en 9 and 9, by Sir Henry S eymour . h e o ld e f To t e W . are som pleasant cottag s o no e e importance , but which compl t a rather unique u e Th e u e u pict r . ch rch though archit ct rally

w c e e . some hat haotic , is attractiv from its vari ty

e n w e . It has a chanc l , ave , W . to er , N . aisl and S

e e . w chapel , and library sid by sid The to er of was 16 e brick built in 49, and is a rar example 1 - e u w of 7th c nt ry ork . Indications point to the u the 12 e but church having been b ilt in th c ntury , th e w f e w o . E . indo s aisle and chanc l are D ec ; he r w w one are e the ot indows , ith exception , squar

e r th e . w w h e ad e d with D e c . trac y . In E indo of th e e w w e are aisl , and in a indo of the aisl , some e the e w the pi ces of Old glass , that in aisl sho ing f th e w of o w . arms Ed ard I . On S all chancel is fine - D e c e th e e e a example of . s dilia , spandr ls b ing w e u th e unusually ell carv d for a country ch rch , e e w th e rood screen is lat P . The scre n bet een he e e 1 - e nave and t chap l is lat 7th c ntury work . e 16 e w The font ( arly th c ntury) is octagonal , ith u w pane ls of q atrefoils encircling heads and flo ers . An attractive e xampl e of Ja c obe an monumental 176 LANGLEY

Ke de rminst e r on sculpture is the monument N . wall of c h anc el ; it is a family m e morial to Edmund Ke de rminst e r 16 0 f , died 7 (but erected by hi m be ore i w he d ed), his ife and children , and John Keder i 1 8 w minster, d ed 55 , and his ife and children . The two generations of Ke de rminst ers are re presented by kn eeling figures in coloured marbl e ; w w belo are the children , i th their names quaintly of placed above them . A nu mber other tabl ets with quaint inscriptions may be noticed in this w church . One brass remains , that to John Bo ser, 160 8 (at present removed from the buildi ng and of w in custody the church arden). The library r was (key at nea est almshous e S . of church) built Ke de rminst e r 16 2 by Sir John about 3 , a littl e f later than the S . chapel . Th e painted panels o the w e w ainscot presses are inter sting, as ell as the collection of old books which was placed there by Sir John for the ben efit o f ministers and such of other in the county B ucks as resort thereunto , as

w N . E o f he says in his ill . At the . end the village is L angl ey Park , purchased by Sir R . Harvey, in 1 88 of 7 , from the Duke Marlborough, beautiful was from its many trees . The existing house built th e of of by second Duk e M arlborough , grandson f the great Duke in the femal e lin e, soon a ter he o ro e rt in 1 8 f b ught the p p y 7 3 . Still urther to the

N . f , and separated by the road to Iver rom the f o w 1 . Park , is a fine tract oodland ( 5m long and e 5 m . in breadth) appropriately nam d f th rom e many Scotch firs . The formal arrange ment of the origi nal planting (about the middl e 1 w was of 7 th century , hen the lak e made) has d e - w w long isappear d, and sel f so n trees have gro n M 17 7 BUCKI NGHA M SHI RE

f f up, orming a wild and be autiful bit o wood ce Th e e nd e c land s nery . W . is r a hed by

the . th e e n road N from church , ke pi g to e the the right , and th n along outs kirts of e L angl y Park . From this road a footpath e th e e th e l ads past lak , through Black Park to th e Crooked Brlle t Inn on the road ne ar ~ I ver Heath . — L atbour e w e 1 m. in e y ( N port Pagn ll , ) D om s L ate sbe ri — day , e is a small village in a parish on a fe rtile trac k enclose d in a loop of w e w the Ouse , hich , touching N port Pagnell , turns the n in a direction opposite its forme r u r e course . The ch rch and L athbu y Hous , e 1 u rebuilt at the b ginning of 9th cent ry , s th e o f of the N e w tand at end a lane S . P e Th e port agn ll and Northampton main road . w t o w . church , ith nave , aisles , chancel and W we N c e w to r . , ontains som interesting N . ork , e e the w w c we sp cially south door ay, hi h , ho ver, e o f w has evid ntly lost parts the original ork . Th e o f e are e e capital s pillars of S . aisl ornam nt d e e u u o f by grotesqu animals . Not c rio s carving

e . th e e one on S . side of nav A lso carv d flat e of old u e e slab , r moved from one the sq ar pi rs

‘ of nave in 187 0 to th e wall imme diate ly below th e e Ch adflo wer Rood L oft st ps , and the monu e 16 0 m nt , 4 , a lady and family . w w e 1 - A indo on S . sid contains 5th century s e t he e e are c tain d glass . In nav and aisl s onsider th abl e remains of mural paintings ( 15 century) . L atimer f 1 (Chal ont Road , 5 a small se e e the o f clud d haml t in parish Chesham , u u is the centre of some delightf l r ral scenery , a 178

B UCK I NGHAM SH IR E

e f m e s n e at each corn r , and ro th m pri g h avy e e th e f pointed arch s , indicativ of transition rom

E N - . . E . w are N to . The S and . door ays

E E . . s u and the porche P . Many ch rches in Bucks at one time were in this early s is tyle , but it rare to find any indication of no e it w l ft . L avendon Castle was on a mount with u n three baileys . A farmho se ow stands on w the mount , hich is about half a mile N . of the church . L eeebam rtead uc m — p ( B kingham , 35 . ) Domes L e ch aste de— e o f h u day, lies in a corn r t e co nty close to Northamptonshir e . Its position serve s not to make it remote , as it is on any main one e road , and discovers it in a small vall y e w on a littl stream which flo s by the church , b —a turning a mill hard y pretty , characteristic e The u 0 is bit of landscap . ch rch ( ) one of the e most inter sting in the county . It has

w . . e s a chancel , nave , ith N and S aisl and f fe u e . e Th e two e W tow r . chi at r s of the

h . t e w . church are N . and S door ays (Norman) — Each is fine and e ach diffe rent that on the th e e e e S . being arlier , and poss sses a vari ty e e of ornam ntation . The tympanum is specially

e w Th e . notic able ith its curious carving . N doorway is a good example of transitional w h oodmould ork . The has a head at the ape x and e nds and is ornamented with a e 12 th - u zigzag band and foliag . The cent ry e u 1 e be a font , r c t in the 4th century, is rar and uti is e of e e ful . I t octagonal , and ach the ight pan ls — — is filled with a diffe re nt subj e ct a bi shop our 180 LECKHAM PSTEAD— L EN BOR O U GH — Saviour on th e Cross St Catherine Mary — — and the Infant Je sus four roses two leaves — within a garter in the figure of a heart a

n w e e . drago , out of hose mouth proc eds a tr e Near by is a large re cumbent figur e of a n ur one k ight in chain armo , 14th century e e may judg an attempt at portraiture . Not T lne also the monumental brass to Reginald y y, 1 0 6 1 - r i 5 , and the 3th centu y pa ntings in the n e av .

L ee e e 2 . (Gr at Missend n , 5 m ) is not much u more than a hamlet on the plands , in a very u e w e e secl ded and pr tty district , ith d p bottoms , e such as Ballinger Bottom , b tween the Missen e e Th e den Vall y and the bord rs of Herts . village s is a traggling collection of cottages , consisting L e e L e e w of and Common , ith an old Manor w red H ouse ell restored . There is a brick

modern church , and a little to the S . the old w w now church , a small building , ithout a to er , is e - s w us d as a Sunday chool , and is ithout any archite ctural feature s ex ce pt a poor three -light

E E w w. Th e l th e . . E . indo mura monuments to — — Plaistow family the owners of th e manor have be e ne w th e en r moved to the church , also e s dilia . ’ One e . 3 are mil E of L ee , in Bray Wood , the remains of an ancient encampment whether British or Roman it is now scarcely possible to w state ith certainty . L enborou b L e din ebe r g (Domesday, g g), a small e 2 haml t m . S . of Buckingham . The Manor e now was th e Hous , a farm , property of Gibbon 181 BUCK I NGHA M SHI RE

and h e e the historian , it is said that liv d there for a time . illin stone D a rell n ui L . g y (Bucki gham , 45 ) has e r e e th e h no villag , the pa ish b ing c ntred in c urch , w e the a hich lies in the fi lds to the E . of main ro d to Northampton and close to a farmhous e . The w 1 1 - e e church , hich has an th century nav and chanc l

w E . E w . The w in arch , sho s much . ork to er is this on w of e e e style ; S . all chanc l th r is a quite beauti

E E . w w of two w e ful . indo lights , ith a centr shaft

e Th e . w w the and tooth d ornament . E indo of — e e . e chanc l the church has a chancel , nav , S aisl w and porch , and a N . aisle built hen the church was e e I 8— w e r stor d in 86 is peculiar , sho ing a cl ar ee E E De c f ling of the transition from . . to . , tre foils be ing placed as a kind of addition in th e h e ad E E Th e are to distinct three . . lights . pillars u e th e octagonal . A fine tomb occ pies the centr of — two e u chancel recumbent figur s , a man in armo r w e e th e e e and and his ife , sid by sid , featur s fin ly — strikingly sculptured a memorial to Paul Dayre ll

w 1 1 8 . e of and Dorothy, his ife , 57 . On sid e t o e ffi i chancel is anoth r tomb, having w brass g e s

a e 1 . to Paul and M rgaret Dayr ll , 49 1 L illin stone L ofvell a was g ( Buckingh m , 5 m . ) , 1 8 e o f th e c u until 44, a parish and villag o nty u N orth am of O xford , tho gh it li e s close to the p tonshire . of th e a border . It is 5 m . E main ro d e from Buckingham to Northampton , a qui t little place standing some what high in a pl e asant Th e w country . church , hich is just on the e w e he edg of grass fields , hich str tch away to t

E. w n e , is rather an interesting building ith av , e w chancel , N . and S . aisl s and W . to er , with a 182

BUCKIN GHA MSH IRE

” L i 0r d L ittle e w e 1 n/ , (N port Pagn ll , 5 a the e the L inford H ll , on N . sid of Ouse, a fe w e e h e cottag s and a farm , constitut t habita i tions of this small parish . The church s

e the . . s clos to hall on S . E side It is a mall e e is building , the most int r sting feature the - r e e e e 1 3th centu y b ll turr t . Not an anci nt font . L inslade L incelada s now (Domesday , ) consist N e w e an t ad of ( 1 ) L inslad , urban distric joining the L e ighton Buzzard station of th e 81 N W w w as fre L . . . Rail ay and best kno n a q ue nted hunting centre in the winter ; ( 2) old th e e L inslade , church (s rvice in summer only ; e N e w d e key at vicarag , L insla e ), Manor H ous and a fe w cottages picture sque ly placed in the e e for d e Ous Vall y , having a bac kgroun the pin w oods on the high land of Bedfordshire . (Walkers l e ave the Bletc hley road by the u e n t nn l and take the footpath by the ca al . ) was The e The church originally N . rud e e e chanc l arch app ars to belong to this p riod , the r w e also interesting font , circula , ith grot sque e figures and foliag round the top . The details o f u De e the ch rch are generally poor . and P . e e Ther are small brasses in the nave , figur s e w e of a man , thr e wives and t elve childr n the 1 th (c . In 3 century pilgrimages were frequent to a chalybeate spring near r e no w the church . The Mano Hous is part u e u of farmho s and conspic ous to E . of church . The manor was held by the Corbe ts from

'

1 e 16 88 . the end of. the 5th c ntury to At e South cote S W s e i haml t of , . . of L in lad , s 184 LITTLE L I NFORD—

f w e s the Rothschild stud arm , h re many famou - e e e race horses hav b en br d . it fw r » Common 2 00 L tle o tl. , a pleasant common ( e e e acr s)to N . of Burnham . Ther is a mod rn church e N E a e clos to the . . entr nce of Dropmor . L on rendon e 2 e G . g (Tham , m ) is a large villag , a not unimportant agricultural centre in a fertil e d e w e istrict , but a villag hich has be n decreasing th e th e and in population . A t E . end is church e th e - n n ar the gate is old Court house , a buildi g of 1 w th e c the 5th century, in hich manorial ourts we e e e r held . Here Walt r B auchamp , the G reat e w e e St ard to Que n Catherin , Consort of Henry V c f th e th e e a . , held ourts rom first to eighte nth ye r e e w e of the reign of H nry VI . , and her the ard n and e e scholars of All Souls , O xford , h ld th ir court in 1 1 e n e a 449 and 4 59. It is an int resti g archit ctur l s e h as e s e and ocial r lic , and b en re tor d through th e efforts of the National T rust for Places o f e e th e Historic Interest , and has b en conv yed to L Society by the ord of the Manor . e w e The church is larg and cruciform , ith nav , e s w e e aisl , central to er , chanc l , and trans pts . I ts importan ce lie s rather in its size and ge neral design

n e . we th e tha in its d tails Vie d from W . it gives a e good impr ssion ofa P . building ; though built mostly 1 a Th e in the 3th century it has many later det ils . N . D e c w w th e transept has a good . indo , and upper part

th . of . e of e tower is P . On the E wall N trans pt two w e and w are orn brass s of a man oman, John Canon ( 146 0 ) and his wife and below them e e u th e their thre sons and ight da ghters . I n

S . e e u u transept is a larg a rchit ct ral mon ment , with r e cumbent figure s of - a knight in plate 185 BUCKI NGHAM SHI RE

w armour, and lo er, a lady richly dressed , represent o f w fe ing Sir John Dormer and his i . Above is a pediment supported by pillars o f blac k ’ o f marbl e . The date Lady Dormer s death is 16 0 of f given as 5, but that Sir John is l e t i n was blank ; probably, therefore , the monument e was f rected, as not uncommon , in his li etime f 1n of and his heirs orgot to fill the date his death ,

w s 6 2 6 . of hich wa in 1 . At the W end the v s illage , at the top of the teep little hill w by hich it is approached , notice on the e of e w S . sid the road an old ston gate ay . I t e e e e is the ntranc to Long Cr ndon Manor Hous . we e e The building itself has , ho v r , littl traces e Th e r u e of its anci nt design . othe Manor H o s e w is near the church , approach d by a narro of and stri king avenu e el ms and yews . It stands on o f of Walte r the site, as seems c ertain , the castl e ff of Gi ard, the friend and adviser the Conqueror, w w was on hom Crendon , ith many other manors , w was w besto ed . Crendon the place hich he n ew was chose as his English home , and here he t wo ff succeeded by more Walter Gi ards , the o f first and second Earls Buckingham . His

park stretched along the hillside to the Thame , o f w and by the banks this stream , ithin the bounds o f w this domain , presently rose the stately alls o f e 1n o f Notl ey Abbey . Our inter st the history Long Crendon ceases with the death of the third W ff w 1 16 w al ter Gi ard , ithout issue , in 4, hen 1 2 the vast possessions were dispersed . In 55 the manor passed into the possession of the Dormers of Dorton ; subsequently, in later years , to the f amily of Grenville . 186

BUCKI NGHA M SHI RE

e of s ( 4 ) the altar tomb , S . sid anctuary, to Anne English with three well - preserve d brasse s e - of a mother , daught r and grand daughter . The w to er is Dec . ’ M aid M reton n 1 m —so r o . ( Bucki gham , ) called from t wo ladie s of th e Pe yvor family wh o are supposed to have founded the present church in — the 15th c e ntury is a village standing on high E Th e N . . ground to the . of Buckingham church the is one of most important in the county . It is characterised by individuality and harmony of f and e e e o . treatment , is an admirabl xampl P e we architectur still untouched . The W . to r is e e n e e sp cially otic abl , as Sir Gilbert S cott said , of ue two - admirable and uniq design , having light windows dee ply rec e ss e d and divid e d by a kind of n w fo r a gular pier . The arch has rich flo ers the

. w . caps The W . door ay is admirable ; the N w — e e w . porch is fan vault d . Not the indo s the E w w the e w fine l indo later than others , the s dilia, ith y e and s carv d canopies , divided by clu tered columns , th he e N . font and the rood screen and t modern brasses ( 1890 ) -to the two maids of Morton in old matrices . Note also the remains of mural paintings ove r doorway of the nave and in th e e 16 th chanc l , the latter ( century) are of the L ast

Supper . M arlow G reat e one , (Great W stern Railway) is of those small pleasant Thame s - side towns which e a e e have a family res mbl nc one to the oth r . The s the e main street , as at Henley , run up from riv r ,

e a e . and at Mark t Squ re branch s E . and W th e There is nothing modern about place , but e e e t he w nothing m di val , as in som of little to ns of 188

BU CK I NGHAM SHI RE

n 18 1 e u e now e duri g the year 7 liv d at a ho s , call d h e e e t e . e e e Sh ll y Hous , on N sid of West Str t , and in his rambl e s about the Quarry Woods and u h e e r d ring the hours pass d moo ed in his boat ,

th e R evolt o I slam. See ante composed f ( , ’ u e th e p . A little beyond Shelley s ho s is 16 2 w we Borlase School , founded in 4, hich is ll w of e orthy notic . M a low L ittle 1 r . , (Bourne End , 5m ) is a small e c an be e villag 5m . from the Thames . It reach d t e the from the river by a footpa h about 5 m . abov boathouse at Bourne End . The church has a good deal of interesting detail and is on the edge o f the e was e e 1 0 2 th e e w . m ado s It r stor d in 9 . In chanc l E th e e e E . w w are som . indo s , and in nav P . Note the lofty tower arch ( 14th century) and th e plain f a N . ont and a br ss on an altar tomb to Nichol

L e de wich 1 0 e . ( 4 3 ) on S . side of chanc l of the u e On the E . side church is the M anor H o s , of 1 the back part which is early 7th century . e e n th e e Clos to Bourn End , adjoini g Abb y e e Farm , onc stood the B nedictine Nunnery of St Fontibus de M e rlawe w c was Mary de , hi h in e e 1 2 2 8 was e exist nc in , and th refore probably f 1 e s e e 2 th wa . ound d in the c ntury . It a small hous R e c e nt excavations of the foundation have w e r th e sho n that it consist d of a chu ch on W . w e w On the S . er the domestic buildings , ith a Cloist e r of the same length as th e nave of the the of w church , and to E . this the dormitory , ith a chapter - house interv e ning betwe en it and the u ch rch . M an o Giabon ( L ondon 8c North - We stern

w 1 . Rail ay Station, m ) is a picturesque village 190 LITTLE MARLOW— MARSH GIBBON with t 6 rh and 17th - century cottag e s bene ath large e e e w . or e e lms among larg , open m ado s Marsh , M rs , can be traced as far away as E dward th e Con fe ssor th e w h e e e d , for charter by hich d dicat e e I slip , in Oxfordshir , to Christ and S t Pet r to the e of e one Abb y Westminst r , he also gave e Me rsce th e e e hid at . A t Dom sday Surv y the e e w E arl of Morton held a manor in M rs , hich h e be stowed o n the monks of G re ste in in th e u th e e Normandy . On s ppression of for ign e e D e e e monast ri s the la P ol s obtain d the manor, and in 144 1 bestowe d it on th e hospital of we e e 16 0 e n w E lm , and sinc 5 it has b lo ged , ith we e th e e of e E lm , to Univ rsity O xford . The nam of n G ib en was of Gibbo , or w , derived from that a family wh o h e ld lands in Me rse in the reign of K h was ing Jo n . Another manor at the e e e -A nsculf D om sday Surv y h ld by Wm . F itz , under whom the forme r Saxon owner h e ld it as su e e his bf udatory . A second Manor Hous 1 th e n u e e ( 7 c t ry), call d W stbury, is still to be the of the v e seen at W . end illag . c u e nd of th e e The h rch is at the N . villag , and e e w e is an int r sting building ith nave , chanc l ,

e Th e . e w e e aisl s . N aisl and N . pillars er add d w e the as e e 188 1 Th e h n church w r stor d in . S . f fine w w transept or Ick ord Chape l has a P . indo ; of e of e the roof the nav is the same style, but th re are of the remains a much olde r building , such as E f th e l E e th e of o . . . foliag in capitals some pi lars a e on N E of e The foli g the . . pillar aisl is remark — able large lilies be tween which hav e be en heads ; the e E E w chanc l is . . Note in N . all a stone cofli n with a floriate d cross (late 13th century) The 191 B UCKI NGHAM SHI RE

' w w th e Old s to er has been rebuilt ith material . In the churchyard is th e lowe r part o f a cross 1 th e e e ( 5 c ntury). The Manor Hous , opposit the u w e ch rch , ith its high gables and chimn ys , is a d e lightful picture and an e x ce llent exampl e of a 1 th - 7 century domestic building . I t still contains s e everal interesting details , the staircases esp cially n a e ot bl . M a r ston N or tl: n , (Grandborough R oad Statio , m 35 . ; Waddesdon Manor , 4 m . ) is an important agricultural village stre tching along the brow of some rising ground looking over th e low-lying e we w e e e fi lds to the st ard . S om pictur sque cottag s w be e wa ill s en , and on the y to the church “ w e Observe an inn ith the uniqu sign , The ” e e Armed Yeoman . A chalyb at spring at one time gave North Marston a r e putation as a health e was e resort . Th re also a shrin in the church in h r ne e 1 2 0 wh o e onou of John Shor , R ctor , 9 , se ms e e his to have b n a militant Christian . Among achievements

Sir J o h n Sh orne G en e man o ne tl b r , ” K cke th e e v n o a boo i d d il i t t ,

e e e two an old rhym assur s us . Thes attractions caused North M arston to be the e nd of many Th e c one of pilgrimages . hurch is the most e th e u th e h as two int resting in co nty , nave

. E w e th e E. aisles , N is . ith tooth d ornament , D e e are e the S . is . , and th r som curious Th e c capitals . S . por h is good plain D . The th e w . n work , to er is P chancel is e tirely 192

BUCKINGHAM SHIRE

e nd and remarkable pictorial brass on N . of altar e e tomb, probably that of E dmund West , S rj ant at- L aw (died de picting a curious de ath be d scene ; (6 ) a fine brass to Mary We st with a c h rysom child ; and (7) two daughters of e of Nicholas W st . These are in floor S . aisle e th e w at E . end . The turr t outside N . all of e e f nav , onc enclosing spiral steps to a rood lo t , a is curious . The moat of the old M nor s h e o f th House of the West is a little to t N . e c hurch . M edmenham e (Henley, 4 m . ) lies on a lev l e of e e pi ce ground under a sharp br ak in the Chilt rns , and which be gins thre e mil e s above Gre at w w th e ff are e e Marlo , here chal k cli s visibl abov e f the Tham s . The church is hal a mile from the The e e e river . old r part of the villag is group d ne ar it from this point to the river are a numbe r ne w w fe w of villas , among hich a old and e u picturesque cottag s remain . On a steep sp r of e e high ground abov the church , once the sit of a castle , a farmhouse is boldly placed . On the e n e river bank stood M dme ham Abbey, a c ll to e 12 0 0 the parent abbey at Woburn , found d in by de Bole be c w e Hugh , hose father h ld the manor e at the Domesday Surv y . In the beginning of the 16 th century the abbe y was annex e d to Bisham A bbey on the opposite sid e of the the river . The abbey has totally disappeared , but w - e w s house , ith ivy cov red , modern to er , look e v we th e The picturesqu enough ie d from river . e u e church has little archit ct ral beauty or inter st .

w e w . Note the N . ork in inn r door ay of S porch , the 1 th w also panels ( 7 century) of the pulpit , hich , 194 M EDMENHA M— MENT M ORE w e i th considerabl e reason , have been regard d as the work of a Dutch artist . M edmenham of Abbey has attained a kind cel ebrity, because in the middle o f the 18th century i t was selected as the scen e of their revelri es by a group of fashionabl e men wh o called themsel ves the Of f o f M onks M edmenham Abbey . Their orm was amusement at once profane and childish , mimicking, as they did, religious rites in their o f social meetings , but the character their gather ings was probably neither better nor worse than of f or th e that others be ore since , though from position of those wh o took part in them th e y f have achieved a disagreeabl e ame . Wil kes , Sir w f w l e Francis Dash ood , a ter ards Lord Despenser , Chancellor of the Exchequ er in Lord Bute ’s

Government , Paul Whitehead , the dramatist , w and Charles Churchill , the poet , ere the l ead ing spirits at the M edmenham meetings . wh o was of was Wilk es , the youngest the party, on probably the first i n the revelri es , and one “ occasion let loose among them a baboon mad e ” up as Satan . M entmore m on (Leighton Buzzard , 3& . ) stands f the summit o a hill with charming vi ews . Nothing can be more delightful than the vi ew to the N . on an autumn morning with the fore o f e llovvin ground y g el ms . The village is grou ped o f - n th e about the S . side the hill top o the W . are o f If th e house and gardens M entmore House . place is approached from Cheddington , the road , w after crossing the rail ay to Ayl esbury, runs of e through part the Park . The villag is not w particularly picturesqu e, but is ell cared for I QS BUC KI NGHAM SHI RE

e one e and flourishing , as b fits sid by side with so The magnificent a house as that of . W N . . church is at the . corner of the hill While agre eabl e e nough among all its pleasant surround e ings , it has archit cturally not much interest . Th e c e hancel is altog ther modern, and many e alterations hav taken place from time to time .

e e E E. The most int resting details to note ar the . w now m e capitals hich for the bas of the pillars , th e e n e 1 th and carv d a g ls ( 5 century) in the roof. The e xisting pillars wer e probably placed in the the 1 1 e church in 4th or 5th century . M ntmore was House built by Baron Meyer de Rothschild , m e e 18 1 The we and co m nc d in 5 . architects re S ir J . Paxton and Mr G . H . Stokes . Near e e th e the hous is a large statu of F avonius , 1 1 no e winne r of the Derby in 87 . I t w b longs th e r wh o 18 8 to E a l of Rosebery , , in 7 , married de Miss Hannah Rothschild , the only child of e Baron Mey r . The house contains many fine o f br ie-a-bra e work s art and , but as it is not open to th e public it is usel e ss to enumerate its con

e . t nts The most important rooms are the hall , — 8 x 0 ft . in ee r 4 ft . 4 it are thr coppe gilt lanterns , e the surmount d by lion of S t Mark , which were made in the Arsenal o f Ve nrce for the Bucenta ur 1 0 — - w in 47 and the dining room , ith carvings and e L oo w w e e panel s paint d by Van , hich ere d sign d % IV the e the e fo r L ouis . on marriag of Princ de w of Conti . The best vie the house is from the fi e lds betwe en th e Cheddington Crossing and the e e road from Wingrav to Marston Gat Station,

- through which a bridl e way runs . M ilton Ke nes w e y (Ne port Pagn ll , 3 m . ) is a 196

BUCKINGHAM SH IRE for the o ld f lain w o n ont , a p bo l an octagonal e 1 th w be st m , 5 century , ill found by th e side of th e w . n th e . c the . W al k leadi g to S por h . On S wall of chancel is the we ll - pre s e rve d brass e ffigy of B ab n ton 1 2 . Adam y g , Rector , 4 7 i Ke e Mid e lt ne e M lton yn s ( Domesday , v o ) ow s its second name to the De Catrines or Keynes , h t h e 1 w o held manor in the 3th century . e of wh o ih Att rbury, Bishop Rochester, is so separably conn e cted with the politics o f th e r e ign o f was 166 2 Queen Anne , born here i n , his

- father b e ing rector from 16 57 16 93 . M i ssende n G reat w , (M etropolitan Rail ay), is a large villag e e xt e nding for hal f a mil e on each o f h e f side t road rom London to Aylesbury . ’ To -day it still answers to Leland s (died 1 552 ) des “ c ri tion : f e e p A praty thorough ar , bu t no mark t w old- f w to n for it is a quiet , ashioned place, ith e w no actual picturesqu feature , but reposeful ith its unostentatious dwellings grouped below the w e beech woods hich cover the adj oining hillsid . was e It just such a plac as , in the Middl e Ages , was the favourite situation for a religious house t h e w meado s , the stream at hand, the not distant w w f oodland , here uel could be obtained and hogs b e not 1 1 fed . Thus it is surprising that in 3 3 an Abbey for Black Canons was found e d by William o f e de Missenden . All traces the abbey hav w e disappeared . A modern ho use ith a park occupi s ld th e the site of the o religious house . So

of o n . of i church outside , and the E side v llage , ’ e is n ow the only object of a stranger s pilgrimag . e e th e Its situation among pleasant tr s , j ust at o f w edge the abbey park , some hat above the l evel 198 T H E M ISSEN DEN S

he e t e w . of villag hich it overlooks , is d lightful w e n . w E xter ally it is not attractive , P indo s hav be en plac e d in it which are too large and heavy for the original building . It is structurally a

. n w we a e two Dec buildi g ith a W . to r , nav , c e e Th e — aisles , chan l and trans pt . interior the — church was well re store d in 190 0 is spacio us D e c th e e and the . pillars and arches of nav

. w ] are good On the N . all of chance is a e f De c . e e e o b autiful arcad , an xact facsimil the ’ e E E e . original , opposit is a good . . pri st s door Th e f but w the e N . ont , plain , ith charact ristic e e of cabl ornament , indicat s the early origin th e w c was e church , hi h , no doubt , cont m orane ous w th e of th e p ith building abbey . On

. w o f n w S all S . tra sept is a curious brass sho ing th e bust of a woman with plaite d hair e e f rising from a conv ntio nal arrangem nt of oliage . It doe s not seem to have any connection with

th e th e . brass inscription beneath it . In W c orne r of same wall is a much e arlier brass e ffigy a w a of oman , probably that referred to by H ines as the of the a lady (c . F rom W . end churchyard a footpath l e ads across th e park to t h e ff e w of e L ondon road , a ording vi s Missend n

A bbe y . M issenden L ittle e e 2 , (Great Miss nd n , 5 lies somewh at Off the main road ; a by-road e e mak s a semicircl from it and rejoins it , after the e Th e passing through villag . church is we n e w . small and quaint , ith a W to r, a av , E E e e . . . chanc l and N . aisl . It has an E w w th e e l indo of three lights , and d tails shou d w w be noticed . A quaint dormer indo has 199 BUCKI NGHAMSH I RE

o f f. been placed in the S . side roo There is also a N . font . Though the architectural features are o f old . little valu e , i t is a curious building On f a the floor of N . aisl e is the remnant o brass to

16 1 . John Styl e , 3 r ou h see M onks R isbo g ( Risborough). ul w o n M o soe . (Ne port Pagnell , 3 m ) lies high f e e ground close to the B ed ordshire bord r , one mil E th e e N . to . of xcellent main road from Woburn to w e h e Ne port Pagn ll and the north . T c o ne e we hurch is of some siz , having W . to r , o w e two . n nave , aisles and chancel I t possess s

of . chi efly the characteristics the Dec styl e , but of w there is a good deal modern ork , such as the w w of w w are E . indo , but some the other indo s e o f good Dec . d sign . f e e fli ie s In the floor o N . aisl are the brass g o f w w . a man and oman , ithout an inscription They probably represent Richard R uthall and his wife (c . M ursle w u 1 m e m y (S anbo rne , . ; Bletchl y , 5 . ) was in the 1 3th c e ntury of more import ance to- rs of than day . It an instance a plac e which from a small country town in the Middl e Age s h as f e o f ictu all n to a small village . I t is full p r e - - w e e sque black and hit thatch d cottages , built the 16 e i th e s late in th and arly in the 7 c nturie .

e e e one . e w Not sp cially , at S end of villag , ith an o ld e w e be 0 y tre hind it . The church ( ) stands on high ground about the middl e of the village h t e . t on W side of the road . With nave , wo e c aisl s and chan el , it is chiefly Dec . , having pillars and w ws s Th e indo , small , but good , of that tyle . monuments to the F ortescue s are the most in 20 0

BU CKI NGHAM SH I R E wh o 1 0 e e e died in 57 , probably placed h r b fore t he e the e other monum nt . On opposite sid is a u e e e son o f mon m nt to Sir Francis F ort scu , Sir wh was e e e w fe John , ich r ct d by his i , though she is e e e as th e also d picted . It is in the sam styl other . N asb w u e a e ne w (S anbo rn , 3 m . ) is a vill g and a r e the e 8 civil pa ish und r L ocal G ov rnme nt Act , 1 94 — in th e high district betwe en Buckingham and e c e e Bl t hl y . The church is a small mod rn building

8 f R . A e e 1 e e . er ct d in 57 rom d signs by G . S . Str et , N e wton L on o ille e 2 m - e g ( Bl tchley , 5 . ) Dom s w day , Ne nton , the second name being derived f e r e ff rom L ongu ville in No mandy, Walt r Gi ard having e ndowed an abbey there with th e manor h e e w . e e w of N nton This villag is larg , it som e 1 - e and noticeabl 7th century cottag s , a Manor e 16 th c ntu th e e r wi . Hous ( y), dovecot , n ar the church This (0 ) is in the c e ntre of th e village and has much to attract a visitor ; not th e l e ast is th e view h u t e N . w e to N . The piers are , ith grotesq u e s w u fig r s on N . ide and hollo mouldings ro nd w 1 - e the arches , and the font , ith 7th c ntury e th e e e cov r , is of same p riod , it has the cabl w we and ornament ith leaf and flo r designs , is u Th e w w s pported by eight small columns . indo s are P th e E w w e e the . , . indo b ing lat in e e as e N e w styl . A good d al of work w don by

e 1 2 w e . w w Colleg , O xford , about 44 , h n the P indo s we e e the are r probably insert d . On piscina th e c e e th e e arms of this oll g . On larg pier, w the N E e e hich is at . . angl of the S . aisl , is a e c w was one e ffi r ess , in hich at tim the e gy of a the e now knight in chain armour . Only h ad w O f remains . On the N . all chancel is a modern 2 0 2 NASH— N EWPORT PAGNE LL

- . G ro n e 1 1 0 wh o was brass to W y , R ctor , 47 9 5 4 ,

th e e o f e . th e first teach r G re k at O xford In S . w o f . e n e w th e a e all S aisl is a ich , ith app r ntly n d o f the u was no origi al oor . This part ch rch u ne e c e Th e w w of th e do bt at o tim a hap l . ood ork u be e the roof sho ld not ov rlooked , and that in porch e e th e wa is striking in its massiv n ss . On E . ll u e a w th e o tsid is rude figure of St Faith , to hom u e e e of ch rch is d dicat d . It is p rhaps the same a e th e e e f r g as e arli st r maining part o the chu c h . N ew r nell N W o t a . 86 . . p P g ( L . Ry ) consists of th e o ld e and e ne w e e t part , the High Str et , som str s be we e th e e nd o f th e e e th e t n W . High S tr t and r w Th e th e of ail ay station . church stands at top on th e the High S treet on a high position N . w e two a e side . I t is large , ith nav , aisles , ch nc l

and . h w . . W . to er , P and N . and S porc It is f we - e but e a lo ty , ll proportion d church , spoil d in

. u w the interior by galleries M ch poor P . ork in the windows has detracte d from th e chara c te r of n the t wo e e u e of w are the this buildi g , b st f at r s hich c w e uc por hes . The S . door ay and porch hav m h

D e c w . w e rich . ork ; the N porch , ith a parvis , is e e Th e o f the e and ribb d , but is imp rfect . roof nav e e 1 e are e e e aisl s (lat 5th c ntury) r markabl . Ther is a e f of o n e n f a br ss figy a man door l adi g to roo . e o f On S . sid churchyard is a tomb to T . A . w w . Hamilton , ith inscription by Co per (c e w a e w N port P gnell is an anci nt to n . I t is e one U lf e th e said that it b longed to , a Than in e w r b ut w e th e r ign of E d a d the Confessor , h n

‘ e was - Ansc ulf Norman Surv y made , William F itz , we w th e the a po rful baron , o ned manor , and in e nlc Pa ane l w e r ign of William Rufus F g , from hos 203 BUCKINGHA M SHI RE

th e w e e was family to n derives its s cond nam , i n f e Tic kfo rd possession , and ound d Priory i n the f w parish o Newport Pagnell . This as o ne o f the numerous r e ligious e stablishments subs e rvient to f o f a oreign monastery , until , i n the reign Henry was o f IV . , i t subj ected to the Priory Holy

Trinity, York , at the dissolution its revenues wer e appropriat e d by Wols e y towards the founda o f e u tion his Colleg at Oxford . D ring the Civil w was o f e c War, Ne port Pagnell great strat gi of w i mportance . The occu pation this to n by the 16 w Royalists , in 4 3 , cut the communication bet een w London and the North , and Essex marched ith seven London regiments and forced the Royalists w e to abandon the to n . A strong Parliam ntary e 16 garrison replaced them , and her , i n 44 , ’ w i of Crom ell s eldest surviv ng son , Oliver, died Th e er Sir e smallpox . garrison , und Samuel Luk , ’ ’ th e o f H uaibras original Butl er s , successfully e w repuls d many Royalist attacks , and the to n remained strongly fortified for two years and nine months . Newport Pagnell forms a good starting - point from which to visit the nu merous and interesting churches which are to be found b e tween i t and the borders o f B e dfordshire and Northampton shire . '

N ewton Blossomvnlle 2 . (T urvey, Beds , m ) is a f of o n . o th e small village S side valley the Ouse , f t h e slow waters of which touch the N . side o the churchyard . This proximity to the river gives an i ndividuality to this church among the reeds and - i e mist and water birds . It is arch tecturally attra

w . tive , ith a nave , and N aisl e extending the l ength 204

B UCKI NGHA M SHI RE

N E e To the . . of the village is the Grang , a fine u e o ne e of l Tudor Ho s , at time the r sidence Cardina

Wolsey, and visited by Queen E lizabeth in one of e her royal progress s . The old moated Manor 1 th e House ( 7 c ntury) stands about a mile to E . of c th e e f 16 th chur h , and timb red ramed Moat F arm ( e century) is half a mile near r . N or tb M ar ston see ( Marston). N otle Abbe — t e y y (Thame , 4 A mong the ligious house s of Buckinghamshire which ex isted e e s n b fore the Reformation, Notley Abb y wa o e of the was e e most important . It found d by Walt r ff of u th e Gi ard , first E arl B ckingham , for monk s of 1 16 2 the d u Augustine Order , about , and until issol tion of the monaste ries it grew in consideration and we was w e alth . It endo ed from time to tim by additional lands in Buck s and in the neighbouring c e of w ounti s , and at the accession E d ard IV . the of w was e Priory Chet ode added to it . L ike som e w e abb ys of hich consid rable ruins still e xist , such and was e as Tintern Bolton , it plac d in a valley, th e e e r e the close to Tham , und the sh lter of rising u the e of gro nd to the N . of the stream . F rom dat u fe u -da its dissol tion it quick ly ll into r ins , and to y no e but th e e u E E substantial portion is l ft b autif l . . e e w one e nd of corb l tabl , hich forms a barn , and e th e which is depict d in Parker and Rickman , and turre t which stands at the corner of the ne w ho use on the site of an olde r building which bears the name of e e e Notl y Abb y . Other fragm nts may be found , but e e are e to e th s too scatter d be of archit ctural value . e th e e of Not also dov cot to the N . the house . f e e O le 1 . e a y (Brill , 5 m ) is attractiv ly n stl d at th e f oot of Brill Hill , straggling from the tall 2 06 NOTLEY A BBE Y— OLNE Y slope s to th e low me adows which stre tch away e Th e e e e to Tham . church has som int r sting w De c w features . The to er is . , ith a bold stair e the we w turret at the S . E . angl rising above to r ith De c w w a finial . A S . transept has good . indo s . th e e e e On outside is an unusual s pulchral r c ss , th e only one in Buck s with a cinque foiled Th e w De c e arch . S . door ay is . ; inside , the nav are e N th e arches exampl s of transition . , as is font . Olne w e w e y (Midland Rail ay and N port Pagn ll , L ondon and North - Western Railway) li e s in th e of th e are e e N . county . A round it gath r d of w e see w memories Co p r ( also Weston Under ood), e e e as about Stok Pog s linger those of Gray . Oln y is to- day much as it was in th e middle of the 18th Th e w the century . church by the ater , compact ’ w e th e rectory , Co p r s substantial and plain house in m - e e the - e arket squar , ev n little tiled summer hous th e e e of in gard n behind it , r mind us Olney as it was e 1 6 w e a c ntury and a half ago . In 7 7 Co p r arrive d at Olne y about eighte e n ye ars later ( 17 86) e de w he mov d to Weston Un r ood , a place as e f e e familiar to him as Oln y itsel , and nin y ars e w n f Fe w me n aft r ards he fi ally le t the county . whose home has be en in one place for so long a time have re m aine d in it so much as Cowper staye d e e at Oln y and W ston . N E The station is to the . . in the upper part ’ of the w - w e re d to n . In the mark et square Co p r s u e now w e w b e brick ho s , the Co p r Museum , ill e two notic d at the S . E . side . It has doors , as w e but when Cowper and Mrs Un in liv d in it , n u we e Y ou e they o ly occ pied the st rn half. hav 20 7 B UCKINGHAM SHI RE

w w ’ not forgotten , Co per rites to Mrs U nwin s “ 1 8 1 we son in 7 , that the building inhabit ” t wo consists of mansions . The entrance passage ’ and small room on th e right formed Cowper s — hall o n the left is the parlour his favourite seat was w w in i t at the second indo . A littl e way down West Street a butcher’s shop will be seen o n - l eft hand side . A passage by it has th e “ ’ t w o n no ice , To the poet Co per s garden , and payment of a small fee at this shop o ne can w of w al k round the garden , in a corner hich is f still the amous summerhouse . The back of on e the vicarage can be seen , and can appreciate w h ow quite el l , to mak e intercourse more easy between Mr Newton at the vicarag e and Cowper w and M rs Un in in the Square , a communication as we two w Opened bet en the houses . o f In this secluded littl e place most the Task , “ ” “ w s w O ur w a . as ell as John Gilpin , ritten w ” w w severest inter, he rites to Mr Un in (June “ 8 no w , commonly called the spring, is over, and I find myself in my favourite recess , the greenhouse . In such a situation , so silent , w f so shady, here no human oot is heard, and where only my myrtles presume to peep in at w w the indo , you may suppose I have no inter ruption to complain o f and that my thoughts f e are per ectly at my command . But the b auties o f the spot are themselves an interruption , my attentions being called upon by thos e very s row e myrtl e , by a of grass pinks j ust b ginning of to blossom , and by a bed beans already in ” bloom . o f o n f Out West Street , a street the l e t l eads 20 8

OLN E Y

w the visitor past the vicarage, hich is interesting as an exampl e of domestic architecture o f th e 18th for old was century , the house almost 1 6 entirely rebuilt in 7 7 . Returning again to West Street we follow it to the church close to the ban k of the Ouse

Sl ow - wi ndi ng through th e l eve l pl ai n ’ ” O f s ac ous mea s ca e s nk e o e r p i d , with ttl pri l d .

d th e On a summer evening the elicate mists , on tranquil river, the high ground across the vall ey the tower of E mberton rising from the elms , are a pl easant sight . The church is architecturally one of the most on e of few w i mportant i n Bucks , and the ith a w o f spire, hich rises from a cornice masks and

w . flo ers , and has octagonal pillars at the angl es w The hol e building is entirely in the Dec . style , and a fin e exampl e of its earli er and more re so served manner . When a building is compl ete it is unnecessary to point to specific details . On w w of the hol e the to er and spire are most interest . Bu t i t is unqu estionably from its association with w — w Co per and his fri ends the gentl e M ary Un in , w the severe John Ne ton , Lady Hesketh and w 18th Lady Austin , ith the microcosm of c entury f w “ li e , hich is imperishably preserved in the Task that Oln ey h as an abiding interest . ’ — Cowper s oak the Yardley oak of the poem

“ ” Of t eno mous h moss-cus one oo gir h r , wit hi d r t,

for is a pl easant obj ect a wal k . It is i n Yardley e w o f For st , hich is within the borders North 0 2 09 BUCK I NGHA M SHI RE

shir ampton e . The main road to Northampton f w two must be ollo ed for miles , and then a road on the left taken which brings o n e through w Yardl ey Chase to the old hollo oak . A shorter and pleasanter way is to tak e the path from the Pi hkl e close called the g . To reach i t go down Spring Lan e which joins the market - place j ust N W . of . . the Bull Hotel This path runs nearly e w parall l ith the road from Ol ney to Weston . It leads to the height which Cowper used to call th e ff ff ff cli the cli is no cli , nor at all lik e one , but a beautiful terrace sloping gently down to ” Th e the Ouse . path presently crosses over w f o f the rail ay, then passes the armhouse Hungry w Hall , and so to Kiln ick Wood, and presently

oak . the is reached A mil e distant, close to the o ld-f f o f ashioned armhouse Chase Farm , is another

e . oak w 1n but sound tr e This is the , hich ’ C ovv e r s was w p time call ed Judith , hich he mentions in his correspondence . It is int e r e st i ng to note that from a memorandum found among Cowper’s correspondence this tree meas ure d 2 8 i n his time feet 5 inches i n girth , and n o w i t is 3 2 feet ; thus it has i ncreased - f . To about 35 eet in a century and a hal f day, wa by the y, it is called Gog, and the old tree near a e e e it M gog . The roads about Ol n y are exc ll nt , and i t will b e found a capital end or begin ning o f a bicycl e e xpedition .

r n 2 . Owing (Wadde sdon Mano Statio , 5 m ) is a high -standing village looking ove r a fine expanse W o f . pastures to the , and to the E . over th e w w more undulating land to ards Winslo . The

0 . o f church ( ) is at the W end the village . It is 2 10

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e e fe w Th e th r are features of architectural value . th e e 1 th u w roof of nav ( 5 cent ry) is , ho ever , an int e re sting and unusual e xample of good woodwork e e e are in a small church . S veral int r sting relics to be s e en of the successive generations which have — passe d away d uring the e xistence of th e church a ffi th we e stone co n , probably 13 century , in the to r som e - of- curious rhym s on boards , a large coat arms of

u e e w e w e . Q e n Ann , and a font ith a l aden bo l (rar ) we e The interest of the church is , ho v r, centre d on the several memorials of the P e nn family A brass to John Penn ( 1 597 ) and

w e . e e Ursula , his if This repr sents a pl asant e u a e w e e f at red man of middle g , ith point d b ard uff — e now and r , and in plate armour the figur is e o ff the w th e f - e brok n at aist . Opposite is ull l ngth e w — we h as e figur of his ife the lo r part gon . B e neath the plac e to which their fe et exte nded is of e a group their children . This laborate and pleasing me morial is compl e ted by four L atin line s to the effect that burial does not separate two kindre d spirits

o um te e no claun duntur me m a se ulchro H r rr br p , Se d ca iunt an mas s de ra so a as p i y l pi , uo s A mo u nivit mo s se e rare o e s as Q r , rti p p t t ” im h o e umo o N on valuit unctos ce r us . , j t l

e r ( 2 ) Brasses to William P nn , Esq . , in armou w e and his if , Martha ( 3 ) 16 1 w e w John P e nn ( 4 ) and his if , Sarah , ith e We e ffigies und e rneath of the ir ten childr n . note ’ a change which took pl ace in men s armour in ’ L s e the th e beginning of Charles reign , nam ly, protection of the l e gs by heavy jack - boots inste ad 2 12 PENN

o f a b s t h e e ffi j m . (4) On a slab near is brass gy o f w f of e Susan , i e Sir Henry Drury, and moth r o f M rs Sarah Penn (5) An e arli e r brass to Elizabeth Rok ( 1540 ) represents her in w in her shroud , beneath hich is the inscription Th the unusual form o f a prayer . e border is a good and rare exampl e o f ornate R e naissance th e tracery . At entrance to the nave is a stone w o f wh o slab hich marks the grave Roger Penn , e 1 1 w di d unmarried in 7 3 , hen the property w fe e passed to his sister, the i of Sir Nathani l w of Curzon , and so passed a ay from the Penns th e e Penn . There should be noted, also, ston in e nd w h e o f the nave (W . ) hich indicates t tomb o f William Penn , the infant son Thomas Penn , — one o f the sons of William Penn according to o f w e the parish register , others hose grandchildr n e are buried in the same grav . This brings us to the debated question o f the connection betwe e n e e Penn and William Penn . That he consid r d that he was one of the family there can be no on doubt , for the monument to his father, of Admiral Penn , in the church S t M ary Red ff e th e cli e , at Bristol , he is said to hav been son of of of Gil es Penn , the Penns Penn Lodge , in of of the county Wilts , and those Penns Penn i n ” the county of Bucks this inscription was pro w We bably ri tten by William Penn himself. w of have , ho ever, no direct evidence any connec w two w tion bet een the families . But there ere Penns o f Penn long before those whose nam e s and features are preserved to us in the ti me and 1 th e resisting brasses , in the 4th century — Lords of th e Manor were the Berkeleys whose 2 13 BUCKINGHAM SHI R E

was e e o n o f home Berkel y Castl , the estuary the

. w o ne Severn I t may ell be , therefore , that some o f the Penns of Penn passed with his lord into the w w th e o f est county, from hom descended Penns e O f th e se of h Min ty . the first w omwe have know Pe n n a eoman wh o 1 1 l edge is William , y , died in 59 Two mil es from Penn is the burial -ground o f see w was Jordans ( p . here William Penn laid f — two to rest a ter a strenuous life miles distant , it e is r asonabl e to assume , from the quiet haml et which was the home for centuries o f his race though of the house where later generations lived now no traces remain , the M anor House having been long since replaced by a modern building .

A short distance along the road to Wycombe , o n t h e w right , is a field hich is call ed the French w School M eado . I n it there stood the house which Burk e used in 1796 as a school for father ’ n emi ris f e o r l ess you g French g . H e o ten rod w f Be aconsfield al ked rom to see them , and the f littl e oreigners , in their military school dress , w w e andered abou t the beech oods and lan s . ’ After Burk e s death the school was for som e years supported by the Government . Penn Street is a picturesque haml et and eccl esiastical parish ( 18 with a pretty modern church o n the uplands between Amersham

‘ and Penn . On the S . side is Penn House ’ ( Earl Howe s).

Pitebeott d 2 . (Wa desdon Manor Station , m ) is w on w a small village, ith a church , an eminenc e ith th e o f a fine view to the W . over val e Ayl esbury . Th e E . E church is small and unimportant , . in

a w . w w . gener l character, ith poor P indo s 2 14

BUCKINGHA MSHI RE w n w are D e c w w e r and i do s . , ith flo ing trac y , are e c e e the 1 th - c e u x ell nt work . Not also s nt ry f th e De c . e a the e e c e ont and s dili , and grot squ orb ls the e of chanc l arch . Pr ertwood e e e e a 2 (G r at Miss nd n , M tropolit n , % m - m. f s a . e o t e e ; High Wycomb , 4§ ) 57 . abov — l e vel is a ne w parish with a church built in 18 t he e o f e u o f 49. I t is centr a high plat a full e a w d pl sant oo s and bottoms . Pr inces R isbor ou b see b u g ( Ris oro gh). uainton u 8c R w G . C . Q (Q ainton Road , M . ail ay, 1 m — e Ch e ntone — e . ) Dom sday , is an inter sting and e e e e e b w th e acc ssibl villag , pl asantly plac d elo high grassy hills which rise above it to the N E e an . w e e are e e d e . , from hich th r x t nsiv d light ful e th e f O f e vi ws towards e bord rs o x ordshir . At the top of the gre e n are the re mnant of an old cross and a farmhouse built by Judge D orme r in 1 2 e e t d n the 7 3 , n ar a y ol er buildi g , and behind now e e w s ldom se n indmill . The - l th e u market cross , probably of the g c nt ry, of which the ste ps and part of th e column only are

the o ne e th e un . left , is only that r mains in co ty e - s e me dimval Mark t crosse we r common in England . e c a e E rected in a religious spirit, they b m structure s from whic h proclamations and notice s we e u w e e the r iss ed , and round which er gather d e f n e the buyers and sell rs o the cou trysid . In stre e t to the right ( E ) at the head of the gre e n e e are som old cottage s with thatch d roofs . At th e e e to the e nd is the church among tr s . Close is row e e it a of almshous s , d lightful examples of u w domestic architecture , b ilt by Richard Win ood , we 16 8 e son of Sir Ralph ( Datchet), in 7 . Nin 2 16

BUCKI NGHAMSH I RE and f t e th e a e e a son ( a her and son di d in s m y r , w no th e e hich is w in tow r . the e 16 In the wall of S . aisl is a monument ( 3 7) — to Dr Richard Bre tt and his wife two figures e e e kn ling at a desk and a l ngthy L atin inscription . Th ere are oth e r monume nts of no spe cial im a wh o e portance , chiefly to the Pigott f mily, hav live d at D oddershall H ous e in this parish since 1 0 Th e 5 3 . most important of the brasses is that e e 1 8 w to John Sp nce , R ctor , 4 5, on N . all of h W A e t e . e chancel . littl to , outsid altar rails , is th e c fligy of Mistre ss Marjery V e rne y to th e e s w l ft is a very mall brass of a oman, probably that of E lizabeth Chester to the right is u th e e are a gro p of children . Within s dilia e ffi ie s 1 6 0 w g of Joan Plessi , 3 , ith inscription w e 1 2 2 in F rench , of John L e is , R ctor , 4 , and

I wardb 1 10 . e of Richard y, 5 In the r ctory the drawing -room contains much fine wood w o ne e nd h as e . th e ork , oak pan lling (c of c e staircase is also arved oak . Lipscomb 1 e ( 7 7 3 the historian of Buckinghamshir , as e w born her . uar rmdon A 1 — Th e Q ( ylesbury , 2 Manor H ouse and Ch ape l of S t P e te r were at o ne time o f e e now e are consid rabl importance . A ll that r mains two e e S point d arch s and piers on . , and one arch and N fe f e w on w o . a piec of all . , and a bits masonry The L e e s of Q uarrendon were an ancie nt

e Sir e L ee R . G 1 0 family . Of th se , H nry , . ( 53 was e w H e ne w b st kno n . built a mansion and e nte rtained Quee n E lizabe th with gr e at r 2 magnifice nce fo two days in August 159 . Of e u e th e his imposing fun ral at Q arr ndon, long 2 18 QUAR RENDON— RADNAGE

one procession , the banners and the chargers , e may read in a M S . in the British M us um w w e adorn ed ith dra ings of his helm t , flags and Th e c ofli n . 1 1 fo . 2 2 . (Add M SS . 44 7 , , p spl endid monument to Sir Henry L e e and som e 0 others were in e xistence up to 183 . The con trast of the forlorn ruins i n the lo w meadows with the former glories of the place are suggestiv e . The ruins are reached by a cartway from Bicester Road close to the on e - mile stone from Aylesbury right hand or by a footpath near a ston e e or f th e bridg mil e further, by a rough road rom W w 1 e f f . Winslo Road , mil rom Aylesbury l e t ( )

R adcli ffe 1 . e e (Buckingham , 1 m ) is agr ably o f grouped in the vall ey W . Buckingham , round a f tributary o the Ouse , The church on e the N . sid of the village , half a mile from e w main road from Buckingham to Ting ick , e a is an int resting little building . I t cont ins w much old material reset . The S . door ay is a e Transitional N . I t has b nded shafts , foliat d hand w o f capital s , and a into hich a species a d e e toothe d n cabl ornament is ingeniously work d . The chanc e l arch has foliated capitals and e old toothe d orname nt . There are fragm nts of 1 - glass and 3th century font . Th e hamlet of in this parish is

1 . about 5 m from . R adna e g (4% m . West Wycombe Station) con of w sists of scattered groups of cottages , one hich , e th e known as the City , is nearly a mil from u th e e e of th e ch rch , and is delightfully on v rg

Chilterns . Radnage is not mentioned in Domes b ut o was day, the man r granted to the Knights 2 19 BUCKI NGHAM SHIRE

12 th Templars in the cen tury . The church , w t h e striking in its original simplicity , stands ith vicarage to the west on the sid e o f a hill b e low w e Bledlo Ridge , and is surrounded on thre sides by trees , but to the south commands a charming and extensive view. It is a small building with e w a chancel , nav , c entral to er and south porch . w of w The lo er part to er, completely dividing ] nave and chance , contains a blocked Norman

w w w. E. H. door ay and indo The upper stage is ,

. w w w e the E indo , piscina alls and arches in sam style . Most of the other windows are good Dec .

The nave has a handsome P . roof. In the porch t h e old w w 16 e is ooden bier, ith the date 99 carv d w o n . t o one it There are brasses , to the memory o f w f William Este, his i e and children and o f R adne d the other to William Syer, parson g and his wife Jane R a venstone o n (Oln ey, 3 m . ) is a small village h e f [ t side o a small grassy valley . n days gon e was of by it a place some importance , for Henry o o f I I I . f unded a priory of the order St Augustin e , which existed till the dissolution of the religious 16 w houses in the th century, hen the building was 1 8 demolished . In 5 7 Queen Elizabeth gave w all the property of the late priory, hich in the to meantime had been granted Cardinal Wolsey, th e and all Manor of Ravenstone , to Sir M oyl e w Finch . The Finches ere an unusually abl e f f H e nea e amily, and its ame culminated in g Finch , 16 2 1- 16 82 of wh o , second son Sir Moyle , became Lord Chancellor of E ngland and E arl of Notting w e to ham , hose splendid tomb gives importanc w Ravenstone Church , hich is a considerabl e 2 20

B UCKI NGHAM SHIRE

for was some interesting associations , it the 18 o f property in the th c entury Allen , first Earl Bathurst ( 1684 on e of the famous group of noblemen and men o f l e tte rs who are insepar w of ably connected ith the reign Queen Ann e . A pl easant picture of Lord Bathu rst i n his old w age, pl easing and ready to be pl eased , ill be ’ of found in the third Sterne s Letters to Eliza . R isborou b Pr ince: g , (station on Great Western w — Rail ay, O xford and Aylesbury branch) Domes — W R ise b er I . S. . day, g m of church , is a small w w to n n ear the break i n the Chilterns, hich to W S . the . forms the Wycombe Vall ey . The was of manor part the royal demesne , and in the 13th and early part of 14th c e nturies it had w 1 2 become kno n as Great Risborough . In 3 4 Comitis i t is denominated Risborough , a name w w hich i t has sinc e retained , and hich probably arose from the fact of the conn ection of the m w f anor ith the Sovereign or his amily, since of Henry I II . gave the lordship this manor to his h o f w was brother Ric ard, Earl Corn all , and it of w held by Edmund , Earl Corn all , till his death 0 w 1 0 w . in 3 , hen i t reverted to the Cro n I t is e w - a pl asant littl e place , ith a small market house in the centre . I n the street to the W . nearly opposite the church is a picturesque group of old o n e w houses , and others may be noted , as hich on of may be seen the N . side the church . This two ] w has a nave , aisles and chance , a square to er w w o ne w ith a small steeple , hich replaced hich 180 2 was fe ll in . The church compl etely 86 s E E wa . . e 1 . two r stored in 7 It an church , and w o n o f w windo s N . side chancel sho its original 2 2 2 RISBO ROU G H— MONK S RISBOROUGH

t the e are De c Th e E charac er, but oth rs . . e e window is modern . Not the piscina and sedil

. we e . w . Dec in S all This church is not , ho v r , e e of qual in interest to othe rs on the N . edg te the Chil rns . Risbor ou M onér Pr ior: gh , or (P rinces Ris o h 1 m C C M b roug , 1} . ; Wendover , . . and . , — 5 Th e name is deriv e d from t he fact that shortly be fore th e ye ar 10 00 the manor was give n of e u th e to the church Cant rb ry . A t time of the r e Su vey it belong d to L anfranc , A rchbishop of e th e e e Cant rbury . Perhaps most attractiv plac on the e northern margin of the Chilterns , the villag th e e e I cknield lies on N . sid of the Upp r Way, old e and is formed of a group of delightful cottag s , e e e some b ing thatch d and several half timb red , 0 among pl e asant gardens . The church ( ) is at

. e and the N side of the villag , the rectory, a e u e th e pictur sq e red hous , at E . side of the Th e u e churchyard . church is a fine and instr ctiv l f th e w e bui ding , rom manner in hich the earli r are e a to l e th e w s en giving w y ater styl s . On to er are e th e w visibl mark s of the pointed roof, hich has e been replaced by a flatter one . The only r mnant fin th e . u th e w e e of N ch rch is font hich is v ry , e e w e b ing flut d , with a flo ing loop ornam nt

th e w . e nd round margin . The to er at W is e w D ec . , and much resembles that at Bl dlo . Th e Th e e . e e W front is specially notic abl . w P u most important windo s are . , for a co ntry u e ch rch remarkably fine , that in N . trans pt e Th e t wo e is specially good . church has aisl s , c e e fine hanc l and a N . transept . Th re is a e e n 1 th c e w e rood scr , late 5 ntury , ith nin panels 2 2 3 BUCK INGHAM SHI RE

w are on hich in colours the heads of nine prophets . Th e remaining thre e were stolen by workme n a e m ny y ars ago . A t S . side of chancel , close to w - e f communion rails , is a ell preserv d brass o a w priest, ithout an inscription , regarded as that of

e u 1 60 . e nd of Rob rt Bl ndell , Rector , 3 , and at E two e fli ie s w S . aisle are half g of a man and his ife

(c . and at the foot of the lectern a brass w two th e sho ing sons and five daughters , remains of a larger memorial . S ome old tiles by the e lectern and in N . aisle should be not d , as also of D e c e the remains a . niche in N . aisle . B yond w e e the church, hich is pleasantly shad d , are s en w s e e meado s and ome pictur squ farm buildings , and in the int e rvening field a square 16th - c e ntury

t . doveco , recently restored , having on the N side e - the r mains of a richly carved doorway .

St L eonard: . e ( Wendover , 3% m ) is a haml t of e e w Th e considerable l vation, but ithout interest . church is practically mode rn . Sa underton ( Princes Risborough , m Saun m r . e cal der on , 35 ; this station , by its nam , is c ulate d to be a snare to the unwary visitor) is a u u 1888- 18 1 q iet little place . The church (reb ilt 9 with the old mate rials) has not much archite ctural

e . Th e w u inter st font , ith some good though m ch w w orn ork , has a circular base , cable ornament , and e w n e w w flut d bo l , surmou ted by rud flo ers , sho ing the th e e very early origin of original church . Th re

t wo E. E . w are blocked door ays , but the character D e c e f . w o the building is chiefly . On S all of nav th e e c fli of is r mnant of a brass , the half gy a w w s e oman , much orn , the inscription lo t, the dat 0 supposed to be about 14 3 . 2 24

BU CKI NGHAM SH IRE

e n w th e Th e church is inter sti g . The to er is in

e n e n e two . centre , and ther is a av , cha c l and aisles P now out Th e tower ( . ) is of proportion to the rest n o ne the o of the buildi g, but at time roof of b th was nave and chancel high pitched , and reduced w the to er to its proper proportion . The turret, w w higher than the to er, hich is rare , should be fe e noticed . There is scarcely a atur i n the w De c church hich is not valuabl e . Note the . w e - on W . door, ith excell ntly preserved heads w w w w dripstone , and indo s , the side indo s i n

f . . E. E same styl e , and the beauti ul Trans N to . w w o f ] fi ve - e indo s the chance . The light P . ast ff f window is e ective rom the interior . In the

or E E. . nave Trans . N . . pillars on the S side are E E f w f e noticeabl e, as is the . . ont , ith tre oil d o f panels and some fin e corbels . At the E . end ff d S . aisl e the monument to Thomas Sta ord ( ied

16 0 7) is very good work . The chief d e tail is the recumben t e fligy in white marbl e o f a man o n f w ff w his l e t side i n armour ith ru . Belo are, w w f f i n high relief, a oman (his i e), to her le t f w are our men , and to the right three omen o n e w oman and three men hold skulls , and all kneel on cushions ; there is more skill in the o f grouping these figures than is usually seen . th e e This monumen t is pl easing, because upp r e — n portion is simpl only an inscriptio , above th e the which are family arms . In chancel i s e e nu to u A shf ld another int r sting mo ment E dm nd y , 1 and w e —a w knight , 77 , his if , tomb ith thre e 5 — sl e nde r c olumns one of jasper and two of e porphyry . A bove in a pedim nt , with minute rn n are n e r a o ame ts , , amo g oth rs , emark ble heads 226 SHENL E Y— SI M P SON f w o lions . The hol e is more li ke Italian than w English ork .

To . of on . o f the W the village , S side a lan e, w are some ancient earth orks , but i t is impossibl e to state the p e riod to which they belong . ’ b éer rin ton e W ort g (N p Pagnell , London and w 2 North Western Rail ay, } m Olney, Midland

w . o f of Rail ay, 3% m ) is a village some size , part which lies e ach side of the main road between

Newport Pagn ell and Oln ey . It has some character from the number of thatched white and substantial cottages and houses . The church , 18 0 is o n restored in 7 , seen an eminence to the of N . this road, close to the upper part of the village . I t is a fine church , in a fin e situation . w w w The to er rises from bet een the nave , ith N . and S . aisles and clerestory, and the chancel . Internally the building is lofty and well - pro — r on N . portioned circular pilla s , and octagonal

w w of P. on . . S The W indo five lights , , is ex ll t w w of c e en . . , as are the S . indo s , Dec , nave w w f o . The sedilia , S . all , sho ing marks Dec and — w P . in independent connection the P . ork being — placed above Dec . niches is interesting . Note f w also the Dec . piscina and the ont , P ith figure w belo the top and upright ornamentation below. A custom exists o f the church bell being rung ’ on e daily at o clock . Sim son— Se vinston e— p Domesday, (Bl etchl ey,

w 2 m. London and North Western Rail ay, 7} ) fe w e consists chiefly of a cottag s by the roadside,

. h w and at S end is the churc , ith a background e f w of wat r meadows . I t is cruci orm , ith some e w on e . w good De c . windows S . sid A mod rn indo 22 7 BUCKINGHAMSHI R E

. the e r has been inserted at E end . Part of tow

a 1 th - e u i s of the origin l 3 c nt ry church . Sla ton d n and p (Ched i gton, L ondon North 2 l w u e . e o th e W stern , m ) li s in the co ntry at e of h as E . sid the county . The church little e 1 interest ex c pt for the font , 3th century, and brasses to R e ginald M ause r James Tornay 1 1 t wo w Kn hton ( 5 9) and ives , and Thomas yg ( 152 9) S/ u b — a e - - o g . This h ml t of Upton cum Chalvey ee ) has dev e lope d sinc e the opening of th e great We stern R ailway in 183 8 into a large The e town . long and wide main stre t from e th e e old E . to W . includ s form r coaching he road from L ondon to B ath . T modern parish

u as 1 - O n ch rch ( S t Mary) w built in 83 5 37 . the a e th e w Windsor Ro d , outsid to n , is Ivy - w e e Sir . e 1 8 18 2 2 House , h r Wm H rschel ( 7 3 ) lived , and carried on his astronomical re u a th e searches . But Slo gh is chiefly import nt to stranger as a point from which to gain the e c u E pictur sque and interesting o ntry to the . , n h a e and comprisi g Burn m , Stoke Pog s other a vill ges . Soulb ur . y ( L eighton Buzzard , 3 m ) is on the we e e and S . side of a hill bet n the Ouse vall y of A Th e 0 fine vale ylesbury . church ( ) is a u D e e b ilding , and has many good . and P . as r u e th fe atures . I t w pa tly reb ilt arly in e 6 th e c 1 th century , chan el and nave are thus e quite differe nt in styl . There are many monuments inside th e church to the ancie nt v who e e s s family of L o ett , b cam po se sors 2 28

B UCKI NGHA M SHI RE

. w w structure and detail A massive to er, ith interlaced arches and pinnacles of a much l ater fe date, is the predominant external ature , rising f w v rom bet een the na e and the chancel . The

. w th e W door, hich is deeply recessed , is other most stri king external fe ature . I t i s mark e d by of w a profusion zigzag ornament , hich is the main ornament both inside and outside the church . wi The doorway should be compared th the W . w Ifll e w w in door ay at y, to hich , ho ever, it is

fe ri r o f . o in variety ornament The S . porch is 86 2 a restoration by Street i n 1 . Internally the effect o f this zigzag ornamen t round the arches of e w the nav is remarkably harmonious . Ste kl ey church belongs to a late period of Norman archi e tectu r , having been built i n the reign of e 1 1 ff of H nry I I . , abou t 54, by Geo rey, son ff Geo rey de Clinton , chamberlain and treasurer

I . w to Henry , together ith several other churches in oth e r counti es ; it was given to K enil worth ff w Priory by the second Geo rey, the ork havi ng been done under th e direction of the canons o f

Th e f . Kenilworth . ont is also Norman Stoke C ommon e (Slough , Gr at Western Rail

m f . th e e wa 2 . y, rom S side of common) is larg st o f o f 2 0 0 the commons Buckinghamshire, being e f on acres in ext nt . I t is delight ully situated an upland above S toke Poges and Wexham to the S e of . , and having the secluded villag Fulmer N W N E . in a hollow at the . . corner . At the . on e corner road leads to Burnham B eeches , and a e e e nother to H dg rl y . Stoke Goldin ton w e m g (Ne port Pagn ll , 4& . ) e Stoch e s G oldin tons we e D om sday , the g r a 2 3 0

B UCK I NGHAM SHIRE

e r the wa villag , pa tly from y it lies on the side of h e e e old e r a small ill . Th r are still som timb ed and e e Th e thatch d cottag s . church a c of h cru iform building , is at N . village , on igh d w re e e e w e u groun , ith an ag abl vi ov r the O sel Th 8 e e . vall y . door is approached through an a e u o f me the e t o e v n e li s . With xception of w pr tty

. w w e ] w w are now D ec indo s in chanc , the indo s all P e e h . t e good , though rath r too larg for r e e the 1 - e st uctur . Not 5th c ntury glass in N . — w w of e and the E E. w indo nav . font circular , ith f u o r small pillars . Th e two ye w tre e s in the churchyard we re n e 16 8 pla t d in 7 . Stoke M a ndeville (M e tropolitan) h as many n old tc e c e w quai t , tha h d ottag s . A short al k r u e a a e a w e e e w c e th o gh pl s nt m do s , nt r d by a i k t

e . e e of e e th e gat at S xtr mity villag , l ads to dis e c c n e us d parish chur h , harmi gly situat d but fast u e th e c e falling into r in . Not in chan l a piscina and 1 th - w w 1 - u w 5 century indo , and a 4th cent ry door ay The u w . in N . all of nave modern ch rch , at e of e be e for th e opposit end villag , should visit d sak e of the old font and admirabl e E lizabe than monument r e move d from th e old church . In a e e e u e e e ffi w r c ss is a r c mb nt marbl gy, ith traces of n e o f e colouring , of a you g girl in an attitud repos , h e r h e e h e r Two e ad support d by left hand . bab s w c e c e e th e r h e e in s addling loth s ompl t g oup . T s re pre s e nt the thre e childre n of Edmund Bru de ne ll wh o e the o f e , h ld Manor Stok , and by whom this monume nt was e re cte d (about e e e e John Hampd n poss ss d prop rty in this parish , and it was in re spe ct of the tax for ship -money on 2 3 2 STOKE MAND EVI LLE— STOK E POGE S this that th e legal proc e edings ( 16 3 5 which are so famous an e ve nt in the c onstit utional

of we e e . history England , r tak n Si oéeneburcb w 2 m e ( A ston Ro ant , % . ; W st e 6 o n one of th e e Wycomb S tation , m . ) is high st of th e h e Th e c urc h as e points C ilt rns . h h a chanc l , e e e r e and lo w VJ nav , N . trans pt , mod n N . aisl a . w Th r e c e rc w . to e . hanc l a h , ith a squint on N e fine a t a n c e ] sid , is Tr nsi ion l Norma . In the hanc , w a e e th e 8 on N . all , is an E st r r cess , and in . w e - e w e e c . all a ll pr s rv d and good D ec . pis ina th e u u e Th e c e ] ve Note un s al s tting . hanc and na e e e e e th e f the a e hav b n r stor d , roo of l tt r is of 1 e u e arc e e nd o f 5th c nt ry . Abov the h , at ast e th e e e th e f nav , is ancient ntranc to rood lo t . r we of we r The N . t ansept , font and lo r part to

'

Th e . E E w w are P . S porch has an . . door ay , ith - e on th e th e dog tooth ornam nt dripstone . In chanc e l are two late brass e s to m e mbe rs of th e Tippi ng family and affi x e d to th e c hanc e l S e e . o ne arch , N . and , is to Rob rt Morl and anothe r to R obe rt Morle wit h insc rip e c e u th e e o f tions in F r n h , as oft n fo nd in cas the 1 e ur knights in 5th c nt y . Stolae Pa er— e Sto ch e s = a c k e g Dom sday , sto ad d e nclosur e ; Pog e s is de rive d from a family of that name wh o owne d th e manor in the 14 th c e nt ury — u e e e w 2 . the (Slo gh , Gr at W st rn Rail ay, m from church) is unrivall e d in th e union of natural e w e a a c a b auty ith lit r ry and person l asso i tions . It would be difficult to find mo re charming and characte ristic Engli sh sce ne ry than that o f which th e u e u e 10 e r e ch rch (op n s mm r till 7 , oth tim s key e e r on th e at cottag by gat ) is the cent e . It is W . 2 33 BUCKINGHAM SHI RE or - o f a sh ort f l eft hand side , and distance rom , the ’ road from Slough to Stok e Common and G e rrard s a little o f Cross , above the gate Stok e Park . The road both above and below the entrance to the church is very attractive, from the old overhang w o f ing el ms by hich it is shaded . The village of e w Stok e is a mil e N . the church , j ust b lo f . I t extends rom the main road was to Stoke Court . The church probably buil t o f o n the site an older c hurch . It is a remark vvith old- w abl e building, a singular orld appear of two e ance . It consists a nave, aisles , chanc l

e . f e and tower at the N . sid At the E . end o th S . aisl e is the Hastings Chapel , darkened by a quaint of gall ery . This part the church is much later than the other portions , having been built about w of 1 . 557 . The oldest parts are the N all the chancel and th e piers o f the nave the latter are N w w . , hich sho s that the church must , i n some form , have been i n existence as early as the 1 w reign of Hen ry I . ( The to er is a good E E f . w o . exampl e ork , but all the other details e w are much later, and have r placed earlier ork . P th e w w . The E . indo , for exampl e , is , and other windows are debased Gothic . Near the E . end f w o f the wall o the S . aisl e is a piscina , hich shows that this portion of the church was at one o f ti me a chapel . The font is a good exampl e w o n w f simpl e Dec . ork , having the bo l the our on w of l eaved flower . Note the N . all the — w o f 1 th chancel a campy Dec . ork the 4 n w w century over a o vacant niche, hich or was probably once h eld, intended to hold , a o f M ol ns man of recu mbent statu e Sir John y , a 2 34

BU CKINGHAM SHI RE

A conspicuous but yet rather a vague figure in the early history of Stok e Poges is Sir John de M ol ns Molines (or y ), abl e, active , and ever seek o n ing his own enrichment . By his w energy he came to play an important part in the political ff o f of w . f 1 0 a airs the reign Ed ard I II , and a ter 3 3 f w received numerous grants rom the king, to hom “ he was val e ttus and treasurer of the chamber ar onc e soldier and civi l s e rvant . After numerous public services he incurred Edward’s displ easure

1 0 w f . in 34 , and his lands ere for eited Bu t he soon regai ned favour, and not only recovered his f fe e or ited property , but rec ived many additional

. for grants Disli ked by many his rapacity, his fe e e li continued contentious and activ to his d ath , w 1 6 2 was hich probably occurred in 3 . I t char ac t e ristic o f M olin e s that by his connection with h e e w for Stoke incr ased his ealth , he married

Egidia , cousin and heiress of Margaret , daughter o f o f o f Robert Poges Stok e Poges , a knight the 1 0 0 was w f o f shire in 3 . Margaret the i e John

M anduit of f . Somer ord , Wilts The manor passing through two gen erations o f desc e nd ants was ar l ength vested in his gr e at - grand Alian o re wh o daughter, , married Robert e f M ol e n s f Hung r ord , Lord y and Hunger ord , f and Stok e Poges thus passed into another amily, a e w e and ag in into anoth r , h n Mary, sol e daughter o f e and heiress Sir Thomas Hungerford , marri d B w K . . Ed ard , Lord Hastings , th e o f th e c th e th e To N . hurch , and in Park , fine Tudor chimne ys forming part of the re mnant of the old Manor H ous e (now the property o f th e Stoke Poge s as u Golf Club) rise from among the t ree s. It w b ilt in 236 S TO K E POG ES C H U R C H

BUCKINGHAM SH I RE

th e north , quite hidden among the trees , and at W S. . o n corner of Stoke village , bounded the E . n ow d by the road , stands Stok e Court as it is call e , w hich contains some portion of West End House , w w here Gray lived ith his uncle , M r Rogers , w and after his death ith his mother and aunt , f 1 2 - w rom 74 53 . It as at the beginning of this 1 2 Ele s stay in 74 that the gy wa commenced . Gray return ed to work upon it at Cambridge in 1 1 0 749, and he finished i t at Stok e Poges i n 7 5 . It was during the same prolific year ( 1742 ) that the charming but p essimistic Ode on a Dirtnnt Pr os ect o Eton C olle e was w w h was p f g ritten , hic of w doubtl ess the result many summer al ks , sinc e before G ray livedat West End House he used b to visit his uncl e by marriage, M r Antro us , at

w . Burnham , hich is near at hand Nor should the 1 1 w was year 7 5 be forgotten , hen Lady Cobham w of w o ner the M anor House , and ith her niec e, e wh o M iss Spe d, and her friend , Lady Schaub, we w of re staying ith her, became the heroines ’

L on Stor . e Gray s g y Persuad d by their hostess , the two ladies determined o n the strength of a f ’ common riend to make Gray s acquaintance , and — so on e afternoon they wal ked over the fi elds we — can follow the same path now to West End

House to call upon him .

A ace o f a o s not in u ff br w rri r , b , u u n in e s ks and ssue s B t r stli g th ir il ti .

Gray was doubtl ess the happier for the friendship of these sprightly ladies . of At the N . side the church in the adjoining w a meado is an unsightly monument to Gr y, 2 38 STOK E POGE S— STON E

f placed there by John Penn . Still urther to

- the N . is the red brick hospital or al mshouse , 1 6 built by Thomas Penn , 7 5. on was Baylis House, right of road to Slough , once the country - house of Lord Chancellor Rosslyn or was - w Loughborough , as his first and better kno n ” — - w wh o title the self seeking ary Wedderburn , from a Radical became suddenly a supporter o f 1 2 Lord North , and finally Lord Chanc ellor in 79 — in the Administration of the younger Pitt here 180 he died in 5.

Stone 2 . e (Ayl esbury , % m ) is a straggling villag — o n the Oxford road the parish also contains the

of e . w haml et Bishopston to the S E . The al ker from Aylesbury should cross the footbridge over w the rail ay at the station , and tak e the path through the meadows across the steepl echase

- e w on . course , the grand stand b ing a ay the right In ' e on the next field the path divid s , that the l eft l eading to Bishopstone . Note the charming vi ew of the distant Chilterns across the int e rve n - h ing valley . The right hand pat must be f we ollo d till it reaches the lane . In this note an oldf o n - w armhouse the right hand side , hich joins

‘ Th e the main road at the two mil e stone . other route is to follow the main road to the old of w 1 entrance Hart ell (right hand , 7} and then take the pathway across the park . This is o f two w the shorter the al ks . 0 on The church ( ) stands an artificial mound , w w ith a delightful Vi e to the S . It is cruciform , w e two . ith nav , N . aisl e , transepts and chancel

w . w The to er at W . end is Dec , i th a good W of rw w w . cornic e masks , and doo ay and indo at , 2 39 BU CKIN G H AM SH I R E w hich are also good ; i t is terminated by gabl es .

The S . porch is Dec but the doorway is late

. e two N and very attractiv , having columns with small capitals and zigzag arch . The piers and arches of the N . aisl e are apparently contem oran e ous w Th e e p ith the doorway . chanc l is

E E. w w w of h . t e , ith an E . indo three lancets

. e w w of th e S trans pt has a indo same character, but that with two lights in the N . trans e pt is e w w lat r, and sho s very ell the transition to the

. D e . w w Dec styl e . Some c indo s have been

. w of inserted i n the S all nave , and P . in the N .

. font N Amon int e r aisl e The , is remarkabl e . g a v e a e nt a e laced b nds , ha ing a small b ad orn m , pp ar m n and u a e e . as e h h ads , animals fish s I t w plac d e e 18 e e th h r in 4 5, and originally b long d to e u c of e e e e R eeor dr ch r h Hampst ad Norris , B rks . (S B a h e t h . . T u . as of , vol ix , p ch rch w c e c e ons rat d in 1 2 7 3 . e ff l n f i c ond1tion Four small brass igi es , a rly good ,

th e e w e . are i n nav , just belo the chanc l steps Those on left looking we st represen t William e 1 2 w fe th e G urn y ( 47 ) and his i , those on right w e 1 2 0 f . Th e Thos . Gorn y ( 5 ) and his i e , Agnes i w inscript on to hom is a palimpsest , the reverse e wh o side b ing inscribed to Christopher Thorpe , 1 1 died in 5 4 .

Ston Stra or d 2 . y tf (Wol verton , m ) is a small e w o n e of mark t to n the Watling Stre t , consisting - on e long street and a market square . Before 1 8 18 2 destructive fires in 7 3 and 4 , it contained — a good deal that was interesting on e of Qu e e n ’ e me diz val of w El eanor s cross s , a church , hich w f d the P . to er is l e t , and a chantry chapel founde 240

BUCKI NGHAM SH I RE

‘ are w h f o f the M arble Saloon , hic orms the centre e w - e the building , the Stat Dra ing Room and Stat Dining - Room on E and the M usic Room and o n f Library W . The house is , i n act , a splendid “ ” w . w palace ithout royalty Capability Bro n , e w f 1 the landscape gard ner, orked here rom 7 3 7 50 be fore h e became a ge neral d e sign e r o f we gardens , but the gardens re chiefly planned e e f by K nt b ore his time . f w w h The amous Sto e M S . ere purc ased by the Marquis o f Buckingham in 180 3 from a e f o f p rson named Astl e , and a ter some changes own e rship were bought by the British M useum o i n 1883 . On the death of the third Duk e f 188 Buckingham ( 9) the titl e became extinct , and ’ Stowe becam e the prope rty of the Duke s e ldest

th e a . daughter, B ron ess Kinloss The small

church has littl e interest . I t has been much

c two f . . al tered , but i t ontains air De c E w w to indo s , several tabl ets and inscriptions variou s D uk e s of Buc krngh am and othe r owne rs of we and e b ra e to r A lice Saundre s Sto , monum ntal ss s ( ) , 1 o f n e 2 e e 6 . c . 4 9 (floor cha c l , S ) ( ) Thomas T mpl w e e 1 2 f o f c h ance l N e and if , H ster , 59 ( loor , ot ’ o f c anc e of h e r t e also in chapel , N . h l , at foot mo h r s th e e ffi of e e Pe n ston tomb , small gy H st r y

e 1 0 e w . and th e nich (c . 3 3 ) ov r W . door ay we c u on N E of . . . S to H ouse and h rch , 3 m road from Buc kingham to Northampton (le ft e e u a e we hand) is an int r sting old ho se , c ll d Sto s e a u an e and th e e w Ca tl . It has q adr gl , out r alls for e fe e e e re have be e n built d nc . I t has b n but e t he as e x e store d , is uniqu in county an ampl - fortifie d e of a s e mi country hous . 2 42

BUCKINGHA M SHI RE

o f Cottesloe , and is inhabited by some the servants o f the estate, so that i t can be examined without diffi culty . Ta low Th a eslav p Domesday, p (Great Western Railway) rs a large village o n the l eft ban k of the Thames , opposite Maidenhead . Quite a large modern district i n Taplow has grown u p near the station and river . The oldest part N fe w stands high and li es to the . , and here a hal f timbered old cottages are a pleasan t contrast to the many which are modern and l ess picturesque . Es pecially attractive is the Elizabethan farm on house , next to a house called the Gables , the right -hand side o f the stre e t u p the hill north f w w . ards rom the church Taplo Court , a fine, old m w and in some parts , ansion , stands , ith fin e w w 111. of vi e s over river and oods , about i W . o f the church , and to the S . it stood the old of w church , hich no traces are l eft . Here in the w o n churchyard some years ago a Saxon barro , w ew was hich stood an ancient y tree, Opened and now examin ed . Various ancient relics, in the w British M useum , ere discovered . - 1 f The modern red brick church , n early m . rom the station , is unsightly, but contains some important now monu mental brasses . They are grou ped in o f the floor the nave close to the chancel steps . e fli of On the N . is the small gy a priest, Nichol e de Aumb e rde n e wi thin the head of a fl oriate d o f beautiful cross . S . this is a remark e fli o f abl e group of figures . The fin e gy Richard Manfe ld w ith his maiden sister, Isabel , to f his l e t , and his brother , John , in a shroud, to his right . Still further to the S . are three more 244 TA PL OW—TH ORNBORO UGH

e fli ies M anfe ld g , memorials to Thomas two w and his ives . From the station to the river is a mil e along a d wi e o f usty, u nattractive road . The d arch the w n ston e bridge, hich belo gs to , is an agreeabl e feature below is Brunel ’s i mmense w w was 18 - 8 bric k rail ay arch hich buil t in 37 3 , one of of e the largest this material in existenc , and much preferable in app e arance to the modern - iron bridges . The river from the boat house by ’ on the bridge to Boulter s Lock (5 m . ) the Buc ks w low of side , is unattractive , ith islands osier beds ,

and uninteresting buildings . The backwater and ’ wi of th e mill at Boul ter s Lock , th the background w of w w h oods Taplo Court, is , ho ever, a c arming ’ o f w piece ri ver scen ery , hil e from Boulter s Lock r of t ee 1 m to the g ounds Cliveden ( ), 5 ” the hang w r w ing oods , va ying in colour, and interspersed ith o f w i mmense masses ild clematis , are unsurpassed f f in any portion o the Thames . They orm part of w e the Taplo and Cliv den estat es . Tottenboe w is a small parish , ith a littl e church f 2 111. o in the fields , % W . , and behind w w was the ood called Ho e Park . This church built in 1540 from th e mate rials of the adjace nt o f Sne lsh all e re e of o ld P riory . Th are r mains w w glass in E . indo .

Tbo nooroa b . r g ( Buckingham , 3% m ) is a large

village with an attractive bit of village scenery . In its c e ntre 3 green with stock s and well

e a u on . . group d cott ges , and the ch rch S side I t has ] e . w . e . a W to er , nave , N aisl and chance Th re is w e some Dec . and some P . detail , ork having b en

done from the 13th to the 1 5th century . The N . arcade of the nave se e ms to be the oldest part which 245 BUCKI NGHAM SH IR E

of w fe remains . Note a brass W . Barton and i

h th e T ornborough Bridge , about a mile from

e me diaaval e un . villag , is the only bridg in the co ty was a u 1 e It origin lly b ilt in the 4th c ntury , but has e e e re e e b n r sto d from tim to tim . Tbornton n (Sto y Stratford , 4 m . Buckingham , 4 e e m . ) is only separat d from Northamptonshir by the e u e e e i e e R iv r O s . It is a pictur squ V llag nough , and th e contiguity of the church and b all mak e s a P th e e u e . the we . pr tty pict r E xcept to r , , church n e e 18 0 e e is moder , having b n rebuilt in 5 , but s v ral e e are th e f th e anci nt brass s on floor o chancel . I n a t h e t he e ffi ie s o f man S . E . corner , ne r altar , g a in — armour R obe rt I ngylton and his three w e — E e th e e ff of N . iv s and in the . corn r igy a w th e e oman, Jane St Johns (c . Near ntrance e nd be e e ffi r o f at W . should not d an gy in alabaste e w fe a John Barton (di d and of his i , I sabell , w h are hic important monuments . Thornton Hall was 18 0 fine e e e . built in 5 . I t has a av nu of lms Tin ewick 2 a g (Buckingham , 27 m . ) is long e on e e th e f villag , ither sid main road rom e e w e e e Buckingham to Bic st r , ith som pictur squ

e Th e 0 . thatch d buildings . church ( ) is on N Th e e e e . v side of, and abov , the villag na is e i r w divid d from N . aisle by c rcular pilla s ith e w o f 12 th plain arch s , hich are part the original

e and e e . c ntury building the S . aisle pi rs are mod rn w w . In the N . all is an old N . door ay, blocked — e and we P. th e The chanc l W . to r are latter has a good doorway ; the font is old and plain

w w . e ith octagonal bo l Not the brass , N . w a c e u all of ch n l , to E rasm s Williams I t is 2 46

BUCKINGHAMSHI R E

De w w c . I n the vestry is a small indo , removed f . e o f rom the chancel The arch s E . and W . e E E o f th e nav are plain . . Near the W . door we 1 - to r there is a fin e , probably 3th century, stone coffin . Turwerton (Brackl ey , Northamptonshire , m . ) is an unex pectedly picturesque vi llage , close of to the borders Northamptonshire, in a rather uninteresting agricultural , but capital hunting country . The church is extremely interesting

of . internally . The pi ers and arches N aisl e are N o n are . pure N . Those the S . Trans . , and w w E E sho the development to ards . . The w E E chancel sho s . . characteristics , but has a P E E f w w . . o E . indo and good arch ; most the

w . other windo s are Dec throughou t . Note a e c e E E D . nich and an . . piscina in chancel also of e t wo at E . end N . aisl e a monument d picting e e figures kn e ling at a d sk . The background is c om coloured, and the inscription is quaint , memorating Simon H e ynes Within the communion rai ls are thre e brass e ffi ie s . e e e e e e n of g , on N sid , in xc ll nt pr s rvatio , 8 e of h a e e and a priest , and on . sid T om s Gr n Th e u e nd his wife large ho se at N . of u t th e churchyard is the Manor H ouse , b il early in 1 7th century .

Tw ord 2 . yf (Marsh G ibbon Station , m ) is a small village now clos e to the Gre at Ce ntral w Th e u f e 12 0 Rail ay . ch rch ound d in 7 , but e w w . ith a good deal of lat ork and a good P roof, w i o n u e is well orth a v sit , acco nt esp cially of w e a e 1 w . ( ) S . door ay , N ith b k d ornaments and s we 2 w tars and flo rs ; ( ) circular font ith pillars , N of e e ffi late . ; ( 3) remnant ston gy (priest) 248 TU RWE STON—

w under Dec . canopy i n S . all ; ( 4) screen , restored ; ( 5) recumbent statu e o f knight in e 6 e chain armour in S . aisl ; ( ) at E . end elaborat monument to Viscount Wenman (di e d 1640 ) (7 ) i n the chancel the brass e ffigie s o f ( a ) John

Ev de n 1 1 f e . e r . , Rector, c 4 3 (hal l ength) ( ) in S o n o n e o f aisl e altar tomb, finely preserved ,

ff 1 0 . Thomas Gi ard, 55 (palimpsest ) ’ T ler : Green o f y , a hamlet High Wycombe, 186 created an eccl esiastical parish in 3 , has a modern church . T rin bnm Te lin h am y g (Domesday , g , later Te dlin h am g ), though a parish has no village . w e The church ( 3 m . Ne port Pagn ll , London and North Western Railway) is beautifully placed in of o n e the park Tyringham Hall , a gentl e rise abov th e w w Ouse, hich here flo s through the park . w o f The vi e from the churchyard , the bridge , w e e f f ater and tr es is d light ul , as is that rom the o ne o f bridge, a classical structure , reminding ’ w w r Vanbrugh s ork at Castl e Ho a d . The only noteworthy part of the church is the lower o f w w portion the to er , hich is N but the rest o f the building is modern and unimportant . On w of two — e ffi the E . all chantry are brasses the gy of t the man depicts John Tyringham , a Knigh , dressed in a tabard decorated with the St Andrew’s Cross ; that of the woman commemorates Mary di 1 w o f ( ed ife Anthony Catesby, and daughter of T rin h ams John Tyringham . The y g possessed — the manor fo r centuries having taken the name — of the place as their family name but the mal e 6 8 branch came to an end in 1 5. Tyringham W f N . o House is seen in the trees to the . the 249 BUCKINGHAM SHI R E

was 1 2 th e o ld church . It buil t in 7 9 , building “ w fo r e hich had stood several centuri s , a large and venerabl e mansion on the banks o f the ” was Ouse , as i t described by Richard Cumber in 1 w land the 7th c entury, being pulled do n . U ton-enm- C /Joloe 2 111 p y (Windsor, Slough 1 now rac ti Station , m . ) is a scattered village , p o f t ee cally part Slough ( ). At the Conquest the of O e to n e was manor Upton (Domesday, p ) granted by William to Hugh de Beauchamp , w son hose gave i t to M erton Convent , . Bulstrode Park and House (ree ) lie in this e parish , and nu merous brass s to the Bulstrode f w amily are in the church (St La rence), a small e f e w Norman structure . Note her a amous y f tree said to b e as old as th e church itsel . The n e w parish church i n Slough was built in ’ 1 8 w at 3 5, and St La rence s Church Upton w 18 0 it allo ed to fall al most into ruin , but in 5 was e . o f r stored and enlarged I t consists chancel , we e e e . c ntral to r , nav and modern S aisl . In the chance l th e Norman vaulting to th e mod e rn roof i s th e e of th e admirable . A t restoration trac s original w e e h e ee e colouring ere found , and th s av b n r pro duce d e the 8 w the ar a e a . Not in . all rem k bl piscin on th e S wall o f to we r a small sc ulptu re d e e e e e e mutilat d statu in tinted alabast r , r pr s nting the Holy Trinity (c . also the font, N th e . , and a curious old alms box . I n w e the E . all of chancel S . aisl , is old arch , on e ach side of it are two pointed arche s (also h l e v . on t e e re mov d from E . end of na e ) That ft w e e e e a is beautifully carved in ood , in xc ll nt pres rv w E E - tion , ith three . . dog tooth mouldings . In 2 50

BUCKINGHAM SH I RE the station to the village) is a unique village o n the E . shoulder of Lodge Hill , as it used to be on w now called, hich stands Waddesdon M anor, s o ne o f its hrubberies bordering side the village , which is full o f model cottages ; i n th e centr e is the Waddesdon (Village) Hall There w is an extensive vie to the N . and E . over the o f A l esb ur w Vale y y from the church , hich has been w much restored , and has a nave ith aisles , chancel ,

. w S . porch and massive W to er . The most int e r e sting parts are five Norman pillars and cor w e the responding arches , hich divid S . aisle from the e e on e nav , also the lancet arch s N . sid . e w Not the S . door ay , late Norman , and a good - w w w w . . two light Dec . indo in chancel P indo s w r have been inserted in to er and cl eresto y . Note — the marbl e pulpit with i nlaid mosaic a fine o f w o ut o f piece modern ork , bu t a littl e harmony w o f ith the character the church . Observe some o ne o n good brasses , especially S . side of nave to Sir Roger Dynham I t was found in 188 E th ro e w 7 at y p , here once stood the Dynham w chantry, hich contained the tomb and monu of w was ment Sir Roger, and hich demolished in 1 8 7 3 . The knight is represented in armour ; above are three canopies portions are miss o f ing . On the S . side chanc el is the brass ffi of H un t n don 1 e gy Sir Richard y g , Rector, 543, in eucharistic vestments ; also the shrouded of w 1 8- 88 figure Hugh Bristo e, Rector, 54 , on two e ffi ies— and the N . side more g Robert w f P ott . yg , and Marye, his i e — Waddesdon M anor the house was compl eted by the late Baron Ferdinand de Rothschild in 2 52

BUCKINGHAM SHI R E

’ ’ H e r M o e s o e he r a e s o e th r H p , F th r j y ’ A nd e ke h e r Fri e nd s d e light was sh e e Sh e was mos k n cou e ous not c o t i d , rt y, A me eke r soul e th e re c ou ld n ot be e . A mo e s h ue a ove ace d t , l ly gr , A e a e in h e r e au e ous face pp r d b t . On the same wall is a small but striking 17th century monume nt to a gentl e man name d B e al e and w f wh o e —h e 16 6 0 sh e 16 his i e , di d in and in 57 — two busts in rece sses divid e d by a bla c k marble e t o e c e pillar . Ther are w oth rs . At ea h end abov

u f O n . is the us al coat o arms . the S wall of the e u an e e nav is a mon ment to Sir T . Pinfold , min nt ’ w e wh o e the f e o f A dvo civil la y r , h ld o fic King s e of e e u wh o e cat and Chancellor P t rboro gh , and di d

1 0 1. e e Th e in 7 This is by Noll k ns . Manor H ous e was built in th e 16 th and e nlarge d in th e 1 th 7 century . is a me r e hamlet in th e Upper u e e e e a w O se Vall y ( Finmer , Gr at C ntral R il ay, 2 — e o ld th e e % L ittl is left of the church , nav n ] e e u 18 2 8 th e and cha ce having be n r b ilt in , and e e e the be ll turret mor r c ntly, but old doors and we e e e Th e w d . win ows r pres rv d . S . door is N ith zigzag mouldings , and a remarkable tympanum on e the u e e e which is d picted Savio r s at d . At the h ad n o f doorway not e the remarkabl e horizontal stri g . h e w N u re T chancel door ay , also . , has a sc lptu d tympanum . v don 1 m Wa en . (Woburn S ands Station , ) is a growing village on the high ground ove rlook ing Wob urn Sands and opposit e th e woods of

Woburn Abbey (Beds). The church has a w P e e . . nave , chanc l , N . aisl and W to er , , but D e the gene ral characte r of the church is c . 2 54 WAT E R STRATFORD— WE NDOVE R

- Th e ch urc h was r e store d in 184 8 49 . The Manor 16 00 h e th e House (c . ) about alf a mil from church , and th e contour fort in Wav e ndon Wood add to th e e e of int r st this place . Wendover e e We ndour (M tropolitan), form rly , is an ft e e 1 . attractiv littl town (4 3 ) in the Chiltern Hills , and e c u e an ex cellent centre for x rsions , ither E . by Bod dington Hill and Halton Wood t o Tring and the H e rts or W n to border , . alo g the summit of Coombe Hill e Cheque rs Court and Ell e sborough . The centuri s have ' ’ no t e W e of chang d endover , and L land s description it as “ u f w two e e we a pretty thoro gh are to n , having str ts ll ” builde d with tymb re is as appropriate nowas it wasthre e - a- f e th e are and hal centuri s ago . In High Street many f- e of th e 16 1 hal timb red houses , mostly th and 7 th cen turie s and th e e of - e , in Tring Road i s a lin heavily thatch d -w we 160 0 16 2 0 Th e small indo d cottages , built to . w e a th e n e w e to n nestl s in a g p in Chiltern ra g , and h n e we a e 1s 1n of vi d from bov almost lost the dip the land . Th e of We ndo ve r n u n Manor , amo g the vario s cha ges of w e e e of the w of e e o n rs , onc form d part do ry K ath rin a n e M ar of A rr go , and the borough , like Am rsham and low h n e e for , avi g lost its Parliam ntary repres ntation e a e 16 2 th e e xer many y rs , obtain d it again in 3 through of e wh o e e e one of tions John Hampd n , th n b cam its e e w h e e 16 0 e m mb rs , hich r mained till 4 . W ndover con tinned to re turn two membe rs till th e Reform A ct of

18 2 w e was h e . 3 , h n it disfranc is d Among these mem 6 th e u e e 1 8 n . b rs occurs , in 7 , ame of B rk W e ndove r was for ye ars th e pock e t borough of the a e e e 1 8 E rl s V rn y, and it is said that at the lection of 7 4 th e re first appe ared an individual wh o became notorious in — sub se q ue nt e le ctionsincorruptb orough s Th e Maninth e M oon whobrou ht £ 6000 amon th e e s , g to distribute g vot r . 2 55 B UCKI NGHAM S H IRE

The church is reached by the London road, or f and then by a footpath (left), a littl e urther o n w by a lan e, or by going do n the High Street and taking the path by the schools . w The church , ith the Manor House behind it , of f and the picturesquen ess the surroundings , orms f a delight ul rural scene . E xternally it is flint w w ith a W . to er ; internally it is spacious and w two f e lofty, ith aisl es, a tri orium and chanc l , and is distinctly Dec . in styl e . Note the somewhat v w unusual piers , ery early Dec . , sho ing char ac te ristic s of w much earlier ork , and the capitals

S. w w w ith quaint animals , N . ith flo ers . h as -fl owe r . The S . door good ball ornament to Bradsc hawe w The brass William , ife and w of children S . all nave, is an i nteresting o f 16 th - exampl e century work . The wal ker wh o wishes to get among the f w for Chilterns , by ollo ing the Tring road 5mil e, and taking a footpath (right) opposite the last o f ro w o f f a cottages (le t), can reach the Halton

Woods and across the range to Tring (Herts). A more agreeabl e beginning to the wal k is to tak e f e the path (le t, not mark d on Ordnance Map) from the church into the road to St Leonards , and when this road almost touches the open hill side ( 1 to proceed by a grass bridl e road or to round Boddington Hill , climb to the p and walk through the beech woods till the path previously mentioned is struck at right angl es .

There is no public path as here indicated , but a w w respectabl e wal ker ill not be i nterfered ith .

o n e w . If ishes to go W along the range of hills , a w w to tak e the ro d across the rail ay, hich leads 256

WE NDOVE R—WE STBU RY

’ h e t . Butl er s Cross , Ell esborough and Kimbles I c knield 00 Take the Upper Way, and in about 3 f w f Bac c omb e yards , ollo the rough road (l e t) up Hill (852 from which is a distant and con tinuo us view over the county to the N . Avoid a pathway through the wood call ed the w Scrub (l eft), and also a road (left) hich l eads of to Littl e Hampden , and at the corn er a beech w 1 w a ood (right , 3 by a post hich i ndic tes ’ a footpath to Butler s Cross , on e finds a most w of w agreeabl e vi e the Chilterns . Belo the w t ee ooded hills is Chequers Court ( ), i n a gap in w the hills , ith its park extending up the opposite slope ; to the right the bare grassy surface o f ’ w w o r Cymbeline s Mount , and belo it the to er d N W Ellesborough church . Beyon , to the . . , the pastures of the Vale of Ayl esbu ry extend to meet the Oxfordshire border . The road descends w — f among oods , and j oins a main road l e t to — ’ if Missenden right to Butl er s Cross , and this be f w m w ollo ed for a i . , a path ay (l eft) across the fields conducts one to Ellesborough church and ’ Cymbeline s M ount . Two- -a- f and hal miles S . E . from Wendover by ’ th e e the th e sid of road to S t L eonard s is H ale , th e e e f e birthplace of Sir H nry Colet , the fath r o D an e n of th e Col t . It is charmi gly nestled in a recess e hills . The hous which Dean Colet once owne d e u u v e e no longer xists , the present str ct re ha ing b n built about 174 8 ; near it is an old cottage and a u u e gro p of farm buildings make a pretty pict r . Westbur e e a 2 m or y (Brackl y , Great C ntr l , - % . , London and North Western) is an o ld- fashione d e h W e t e N . b of villag , n ar . orders the county R 2 57 B UCKINGHAM SHI R E

w e 1 Ful ell and W stbury , m . (a pleasant footpath through the meadows from the station to th e

. the e S . E corner of churchyard shortens distanc Th e by 5 church , almost in the grounds th e n of Ma or House, is good Dec . throughout .

w e . w . w Note , ho ev r , the Trans N to er arch ith Th e toothed ornament . pillars supporting the arch e e e the d ce wer r built wh n Dec . buil ing repla d that e of an older time . The anci nt Manor Hous e was e e ntir ly rebuilt in 190 3 . Werteott N W of is a large hamlet . . Waddesdon , with a mode rn church and a station on the

Quainton and Brill line . Weston Tur ville e d 2 c on (W n over , } m . ) is a side rable low th e of village in the land to N . e be e Wendov r . Without any claim to call d the e picturesque , cottag s , among gardens and not n orchards as a foreground , and the dista t f of n Chilterns beyond , orm a pleasing bit la d e e e scap . W ston takes its additional nam from a family wh o owned the manor in the reign o f King

John . The church (key at the rectory at some e th e end o f w distanc ) is at a small lane , hich th e e runs due S . near the W . end of villag . e e r I t is close to the Manor Hous , a mod n w brick building , and ith the fields and hills e th e r w b yond , and la ge elms hich overhang

w w . the lych gate , is ell orth a visit It has w 1 th w e a W . to er ( 5 century), ith high turr t , e c t wo a nav , aisle and hancel and porches , partly of old work . The church has undergone se veral change s as the styles of e e Th e s archit ctur altered . N . font i s mo t 2 58

B UCKI NGHAM SHI RE f or . t wo f Weston His riends , the Throckmortons , w f hom he play ully call ed M r and M rs Frog,

. now we lived at the Hall This is , as have said , no longer in existence , but in the grounds across the road one may, though it is changed , see something of the Grove

Be tw ee n the upright sh aft s of wh ose t all e lms % We ma sce n th e e s e at h is ask y di r thr h r t ,

w o f w as ell as The Wilderness , hose

We ll -ro ll e d w a lks With curvature o f sl o w and e asy sw ee p

- w have long ago become grass gro n . It is this connection with Cowper which has given Weston something of the fame which o f belongs to Stoke Poges in the S . the county . Between Weston and Ol ney the road passes over o f some rising ground, a rib the valley side, the vi ew from which Cowper and M ary Unwin in w w their al ks to Weston , before they ent to live there , must have many ti mes gazed upon , and whic h is described in these felicitous lines

H o w oft upon you e mi ne nce our pac e ’ H as slacke n d t o a ause and we ave o ne p , h b r Th e ru ffl in n sca ce consc ou s a e g wi d , r i th t it bl w, W e A m a on fe e n at the e e hil d ir ti , di g y ,

A nd s unsa e e u on the scene . till t d , dw lt p ’ Th e nce with wh at pl e asure h ave we just disce rn d Th e s an ou s o mov n and bes e di t t pl gh l w i g, id ’ ’ H is lab rin e am t a swe rv d n ot f om th e ac k g t , h t r tr , The sturd y sw ai n dimi n i sh e d to a boy H e e O use s o n n ou a e e a n r , l w wi di g thr gh l v l pl i ’ Of s ac ous me a s c a e s nk e o e r p i d with ttl pri l d , C o nd uct s th e e ye al ong h is si nuous c ourse T e e fas oo e in e an k De e . light d h r , t r t d th ir b , ’ ’ S an ne ve o verl ook d , our fav rite e ms t d , r , l , 2 60

BU CKINGHAM SHIR E

’ Th e summ arn d eho the ou a it g , b ld pr d l cove Th at crow ns it ye t not all its prid e se cure ’ The gran d re tre at from i njuri e s impress d B a ca e s wh o kn ves e face y rur l rv r , with i d Th e anne ls eav n an o scu e u e name p , l i g b r , r d , m ” I n c a ac e s uncou and s e a ss. h r t r th , p lt i

Th e e w imm diate foreground, and all the ood ’ land scen e are describ e d with Cowper s mar vellons fidelity ; and then he looks into the distanc e ’ O e r ose but far e on a s ac ous ma th , b y d ( p i p ’ O f an d va e inte r os d e e e n hill ll y p b tw ), ’ The O use v n the e -wate r d an , di idi g w ll l d , N ow e s in the sun and now e es glitt r , r tir , ” A s as fu e t m a e n to be se en b h l, y i p ti t .

far o r rs a Not distant, to the l eft S the venue

li mes , “ H ow a and h ow th e ace fu a c iry light gr l r h ,

we and k eeping still to the S . nearing the road , our w end rambl e at The Wilderness , ith its broad w two o n o n e o f w al k and monumental urns , hich ’ s is the epitaph to Sir John Throck morton pointer, beginning

H e re lie s one wh o neve r dre w B oo mse f e t man s e l d hi l , y y l w

on and the other the lines to the Spaniel ,

“ T ou o nce a u an d ou Fo b name h gh p ppy, th gh p y , o e m nou c a H ere mou lders one wh s bone s so e h o r l im.

was 1 6 The church probably built about 3 7 , when Po pe Gregory granted to the peopl e o f of Weston the right to build a place sepulture, 2 62 WESTON UN DE RWOOD— WHADDON

a c a e and a chapel . It has a nave , isles and h nc l w . we w ith circular pillars , N porch and a W . to r ith

w w e . w e e P . indo s , and a restor d W door ay . Th r are good windows of the same style in the nave and e e e of the 1 - e cl r story . The upp r lights 4th c ntury w c e me dia val and the . w E indo ontain som glass , in e 1 S . aisle is a brass of E lizab th Throckmorton( 57 f th e e n off e o which head has been brok , sinc it was r 18 eng aved in Lipscomb in 47 , and the i e ffi g es of the childr en . There is also a brass inscription running from below th e chan cel steps two e o f in lin es into the nave, round the verg a of of stone , in memory John Olney, Lord Weston wh o on to e and Olney, the inscription is said hav 1 0 to w died in 4 5, but this appears be rong, the o f 1 wh o e real date his death being 393 , and se ms , f f rom the inscription , to have been the ounder of the church

“ I s u e a va fu an ua Ca e l a rue ns ue , q p r it tiq p l , q , ” an c in le be iam condidit Ec c le siam H p , and this assertion would correspond with the date and tenor of the Papal Bull . Wexbam consists of some groups of scattered f . o . 2 . cottages N Slough The church , m i e from Slough , is a small flint build ng cov red w w low w w ith plaster, ith a to er and ooden bell t I w w Tw o . t . o c has a good Dec . E indo . small w w Norman indo s are in the nave . 1 Wbaddon 2 . o n ( Bletchl ey , 52 m ) is a village a high plateau (42 9 feet). Its modern aspect probably arises from the fact that the inhabitants w of the manor ere scattered , and only i n recent times have cottages grown u p near the 2 6 3 BUCKI NGHA M SH I RE

church and hall . The history o f the Manor o f Whaddon e mphasises the absentee phase o f me diazval and w e E nglish life , sho s that oftentim s there was littl e local c onnection between the lords o f the manors and the locality in which they lay . At the Domesday survey the manor G ifl ard w o f belonged to Walter , hil e the Bishop Bayeux and Hugh de Bole b e c also held a smaller share of the possessions of their Saxon pre de ce ssors. w Later, the manor t ice reverted to w was the the Cro n , and successively held by ’ d Albinis E o f - ff , arls Arundel , the Fitz G eo reys

- and the Fitz Johns . Then the De Burghs , E arls o f on o n o f Ulster, appeared the scen e the death - 12 1 Richard Fi tz John i n 97 , and then , in 3 55, to the estates descended Philippa de Burgh , e of of th e Count ss March . Several members f w w M arch amily follo ed until Ed ard , son of Cecil , of Countess March , succeeded to the thron e as w o n E d ard I V . Henry VI I . settl ed the manor Katherine of Aragon o n her marriage with Princ e was e Arthur . At her death it granted to H nry V ’ I I I . s w w third ife , Jane Seymour, hen she died 6 in 153 it agai n reverted to the Crown . During f o f o . the remainder the reign H enry VI I I , and

o f w VI . e i n the reigns E d ard , Mary and Elizab th the manor was held on l ease from the Crown by — several less distinguished families the Pigotts , ff T re lls the Cli ords , the y and the Bests , but in the reign of James I . Whaddon again became a of royal domain , and he granted it as part her w w e do er to his i fe, Queen Ann . At her death he presented it to George Villiers , Du ke of Buck a w ingh m , ith all the property in Whaddon 2 64

BUCKI NGHAM SHI R E strangely enough i t was asserted by its owners that the king had given it to be held as if it w e Year B ook er a royal forest ( , Rolls Series , 6 2 2 was o r vol . xxxi . pp. , Wheth er this so not the records of the trial i n which (in 12 94) w s the poin t a raised do not tell us . Th e church has a fin e position o n the edge of w w the high land hich here slopes to lo er ground , and a wide expanse of green and wooded country s W w th e N . stretche a ay to . The building is f . o s w . we n Dec in many its detail , ith a W to r , ave , w e chancel and aisle . It has a S . door ay in this styl w as w Th e w . . or as ell the E . indo . Trans Dec P . w w th e a e th e indo s in nave r also interesting . In interior , note the N . pillars of north and south aisles with capitals orname nted with striking foliage

e n s E . E e and grotesqu a imal . The . font is notic — abl e a round bowl supported on four pillars w f di vided by the tooth ornament . I n the all o w w s . . a the N aisl e , at the E end, hich formerly a N W chapel , is a piscina, and in the . . corn er is the ree monument to Arthur, Lord Grey de Wilton ( a Introduction , p . plain tomb under a canopy supported by pillars . He died at Whaddon in N 1 E. o f 593 . In the . corner the same chapel is a monument remarkabl e because of the union o f w w brass ork ith sculpture . Within a recess above th e tomb are the brass e ffigi e s o f Mr Serj eant 1 1 w o f two w Pigott ( 5 9) in his go n , and his ives and their children . Above the brasses is a canopy decorated with four - l e aved flowers sup

w . ported by sl ender pillars , much orn By the of S . door the nave is another remarkable brass to Margaret Missenden ( 16 12 ) and her son 266 WHADDON—WH ITCHU RCH — she in full Elizabethan costu me ; a littl e w a belo , and to the l eft , her son in the unple sant o f w form a skel eton . Above and belo the figures o f w are many lines of inscription , much hich is now e the . ill gible . In a carved frame on W w h ow e all is a brass , telling Amy E m rton in 16 1 3 gave a me morial clock to the church . To

o f r w old . S . c hurch is a o of very al mshouses To of i o f the N . the v llage is the park and house

Whaddon Hall , of modern erection . I n the park are the kennels of the Whaddon Chase Fox — hounds a pack which was started in 1842 by w n ow Squire Lo ndes . It is a subscription pack , hu nting the county between that of the Bicester W and Hunt on the . , the Grafton on the N the on Oakley the E . Wbitonurcb (Ayl esbury, 4} m . ) is a long village on the side of the low range which overlooks the western part of the Val e of Ayl esbury . It creeps round a bend in the hills . From it the meadows descend steeply into the outstretch

- ing pastures . Many picturesque half timbered cottages may be seen , some built in an unusual manner— the upper storey extending outwards on w w supported ood ork . The church dominates on e the village from a height its E . side . B hind — it stretch the famous grazing ground s Creslow e see w e pastur s ( Creslo ) . A lan runs from the the main road to the churchyard , and v w w a e ie up the approach , ith its old cott g s th e we and fine W . front of the to r , is ex tre me l w w y pleasing . The W . door ay , ith clus te red w w w shafts ith foliated capitals , and indo , w are sho ing in its outlines Dec . treatment , certainly 26 7 B UCKI NGHAM SHI R E th e e a of a fine Th e . e best f tures church niche and s dilia , D e . wa ofc hance l a e n e a e ar th c . r e e i th , on S ll otic bl , as 7 e tu f e and the the c n ry ont and cov r , stalls , initial s R . H . a of on them are prob bly those of R . Hobbs , last Abbot e of f Woburn , a b nefactor the church . The painting o 1 th e e . S t Margaret in N . aisl ( 5 century) is remarkabl R e mains of the once important Bole be c Castle (mount e and bailey) are visible in the garden of the Grang . [Vbite/eaf Cr otr is cut in the turf of a spur of th e e the h e e Chilterns , clos to amlet of Whit l af (Princes 1 m - m R isborough Station , § . ) al ost certainly a mis e of White cliffe sp lling . This curious object was long popularly conside red a e f a e nu e of a e be we e r lic o the A . S . g , as a mo m nt battl t n th e - the w now Anglo Sax ons and Danes . I t is , ho ever, c r not e f e e o f pretty lea , a littl rom the entir absenc any u an mention among early a thors , that it is more probably of th e c rossin of I cknie ldWa indication g the y at this spot , not d of 1 th ce ntur b the older than the mid le the 7 y, y road w e e e hich h r desc nds the escarpments of the Chilterns , e w and conn cts Hampden , Missenden and Wycombe ith the Thame and O xford . It has also been surmised that cro ssh adsome c onne c tionwith the de fe nce of th e Chilte rns

the th e CivilWar e x against R oyalist army in . But this planation has less to recomme nd it than that it was a mark e e o f e e e for trav llers of a plac consid rabl importanc , for we have to remember that it was only he re and the re th at in bygone age s it was possibl e to pass through the wild da w of th e e and ngerous oodlands Chilt rns , though it may ve ry well be objecte d to this e xplanation that the cross

a be f . w e c nnot seen rom the N or E . Possibly, ho ev r , w surmises of antiquarians are all rong , and this cross , w e e as we ll as the small cross at Bledlo , may have b n n e r See othing more than a privat landma k . ( on the 268

LOW E R WINCHENDON w e . e hole subject an int resting paper by late E . J Payn , R ecor d: o u é B t r . f , vol ' Widme r w 1 . O x (Marlo , 5m ) on left of main road to e — no w f ford . Remains of an ancient chap l a armhouse w 8 18 f was th e ith crypt , 3 ft . by eet . Here formerly r w e Manor House of Widmer . The lords ofthe Mano er th e of Knights Templars , then the Knights of S t John e J rusalem . This fact accounts for the chapel . Wil/en w 2 (Ne port Pagnell , m . ) is a small village in the rather uninteresting country which lies between w Th e Ne port Pagnell and Bletchley . church , unlike

. was nearly all the Buck s churches , is not Gothic I t 1 6 0 e e built in 6 and is said to have b en design d by Wren . Winebendon L w h W C R G . G . o er . , (Hadden am . and . , » m u e 31 . ; Waddesdon Manor , 4% m . )is a picturesq e villag w e on the S . margin ofthe ridge on hich Upper Winch n r c don stands . The cottages are nea ly all that hed , half e w - w Th e timb red and of a soft bro nish yello colour . church with W tower nave chancel is small th ou h , . , and , , g t e the w her are some good details , especially in W . door ay 1 th ( 5 century). Inside the communion rails are several 1 brasses ) a man in armour in good preservation ( c . 2 a e ffi e w f ( ) John B rton ( gy headl ss), and his i e , ll f h a l 1 8 N . wa o c nce w Margaret, 4 7 ; ( 3) on the a oman , w e —w in apparently in prayer , ith fold d hands ithout scription . Note the Manor F arm to W . of church . The Manor of Lower Winche ndon was after the Con ff Walte about 1 16 2 e . r quest the prop rty ofthe Gi ards , , gave it as part ofthe endowment ofthe not distant N otle y h was e u e Abbey . But t is grant never altogeth r acq iesc d in by some who claimed under adve rse grants a right to the manor or portions of it . But at the dis solution the Abbots we re unquestionably recognise d the of as possessors of the manor . The first point 269 BUCKI NGHAM SHI RE interest in the ownership of this land is the grant i n 1547 o f a considerabl e part of the “ o f property, late part of the possessions ” Notl ey Abbey, to that zealous servant of Henry

. t of f VI I I , John , Lord Russell , firs Earl Bed ord . w 1 8 Ho ever, in 55 , the Earl of Bedford sold his w lands i n Wi nchendon to William Good yn , a of t w - citizen London , hrough hose grand daughter,

Petronilla, they became, as her marriage portion , o f the property of Thomas Tyringham , some w th e hose descendants lie buried in church .

Winchendon Priory, as on e Manor House is n ow th e . of call ed , is to S the village, close to the old was re built in Thame . M ost of the house the 16 th was o f c entury, and it al tered at the beginning of f the n ext century . It contai ns a number amily old f portraits , and some interesting urnitu re . Winebendon U er , pp (Waddesdon Manor Station ,

2 » o f w 3 is a parish , the centre hich consists o f a fe w buildings on the high ridge which is al most Opposite to Waddesdon Manor . The of church , entered by an approach private road , and hidden by farm buildings from the passer -by o n 0 o n . the main road , stands ( 55 ft . ) the N edge o f t he ridge overlooking an out-stretching pasture W N . land to the . The massive piers of the nave o f w i ndicate the early origin the church , hilst the

. w E E. w w fin e N . door in S all , . east indo , the w w e Dec . indo s in the N . aisl , and the P . char acter of the towe r are inte re sting illustrations of th e e of e the D e c chang archit ctural style . In . d the the win ows in N . aisle attempt at floral imitation is noti c eabl e . Obs e rve also octagonal 1 - e u th e e e n font , 4th c nt ry pulpit and Dec . scr . 2 70

UPPE R WINC H ENDON—WING — In the chancel is the brass effigy o f a man full Stodel e length figure , Sir John y The Manor of belonged of Fride swide to the Priory St at Oxford . It

was . granted to Wolsey by Henry VI I I , and at w . of his fall to John Good yn , E sq , Wooburn , w w hose descendant , Jan e Good yn , carried the estate by marriage to Philip , fourth Lord

Wharton . His successor , the M arquis of Wharton , was e buri ed in Winch ndon church , but his son , was for the famous Duk e , indicted high treason

1 2 8 w . in 7 , and his estates ere confiscated Only the kitchen of the Manor House remains in the house to E . of church . Wi n a 2 e g (Leighton Buzz rd , % m . ) is a larg village o n the western front o f one o f those long w hills hich are formed by the oolitic outcrop , and are so charact e ristic o f the Val e o f Ayl es bury . On its southern side runs the road to Ayl esbury ; on its northern the road to Stewkl ey and . A c harming littl e bicycl e rid e or w al k is from Cheddington Station , through

M entmore , and to approach the vi llage through w w t he immense meado kno n as Wing Park . H ere and there may be seen an old and picturesqu e cottage , but Wing has nothing li ke the charm of many l ess i mportant villages in th e county . The almshouses near the Ayl es bury road , among smal l gardens , are noticeabl e .

The church is important , but it has not the same beauty as M ilton Keyn es or M aids M oreton . w w I t is a large church ith W . to er, aisl es and a h w curious c ancel , i th polygonal apse raised above o f the l evel the nave , and having beneath it a 2 7 1 BU CKI NGHAM SHI RE

w we crypt of rough flint , hich , as ll as the e e w aps , is usually consid red as Saxon ork . The three western arches of the nave are w massive but ugly , and are Saxon , hile the e E E h ow eastern arch s are . . There are ,

e . w w ever , s veral good early Dec indo s and

w w. a P . east indo The rood screen and e the screen in S . aisl (the top of the rood screen is modern) are interesting examples of 16 h - e early t century work . The old r ading

now . N is desk , at W end of . aisle, also x fine noticeable . E ternally the S . porch is a P specimen of . , though the influence of the v previous period is isible , not only in the th e pinnacles , but in the central niche and singular animals who crouch above the drip s e Th e w ton . to er is also P . Wing is rich in s monuments . On the N . ide of chancel f is a fine and repose ul monument to Sir W .

1 w fe . Dormer (died 57 5) and Dorothy, his i e s w Th y lie ide by side , but Sir William some hat

— - h igher than his wife two life sized figures in e the dress of the period , marked by a br adth of treatment which pre ve nts the realism from e w b ing disagreeable . Belo are their children e e among them some bab s at rest . Opposit to them is the monument to Sir Robert D ormer and h is w t e wo . Dame Elizab th , ife , kneeling figures 2 The D ormer Monument in N . aisle ( 155 ) is an e w I tc han the ex c llent piece of ork of design . Of monume ntal brasses the most int e re sti ng is that to Thomas Cotes in S . aisle , porter at A scott Hall , ’

16 8 . H e is e n 8 4 represented kn eli g , with a porter s f - e ta f under his feet , a high crown d hat and a 2 7 2

BUCKINGHAM SHI RE

e e f . o e at the W dg the hill , is mark dly P . in character . Th e w . w e th e e E indo is a fair exampl of styl . The n th - century wall arcading in th e chancel and e e th e a small vault d chamb r to north of the nave, w t w 1 e i h all paintings , probably of the 3th c ntury, are of much interest . Winrlow (London and North - We stern Railway) e e w w th e is a pl asant littl to n hich , like most of small w e o u to ns of Bucks , has r mained stationary in p p e th e E lation and size . Three str ets from N . . and e the W . converg on a small market square . On wn the e e right hand entering the to from E . is s n th e substantial Winslow Hall (built a fine e xample of domestic architecture . Note also e e some old thatch d cottages on the sam road . A w th e o f short narro lane from W . end the the we e w . church is , ho ver , the b st bit in to n To th - e e e e S . of the market plac is a larg mod rn e 0 Congr gational church . The church ( ) is to th e th e e - we N . of mark t place . It is a fine ll w w r n proportioned building ith W . to e , ave , e f we e two . aisles , and chanc l The lo ty to r arch s , 1 th are e ( 4 century) particularly notic able , and give e e a dignity to the whol edifice . Its gen ral character P w now w . is . , the indo s in N . and S aisles of e e the u this styl b ing good , heads having m llions e f e th e above cinqu oiled h ads . Note also traces o f e w th e paintings in N . aisl , and ithin altar e - ffi ie s of e N w e e e e . rails , . , the ll pr s rv d g Thos Fig , 1 8 w e e e c e Gent . ( 57 ) and his if and s v n hildr n , and o n th e e S . brass comm morating D orothy Barnard It i s said that the M e rcian kings had a palace w h was w e e at Winslo , and t at it hile in r sid nce 2 74 WI NSLOW—WOOBURN here that King Offa planned the foundation of s l n th e the mona tery at S t A ba s . At D omesday survey the lands here were in the posse ssion of that

th e . monastery, and remained so till dissolution Woburn Sand: ( L ondon and North -Western w s o e e th e Rail ay) is a mall m d rn villag , just on of ed e w be border B fordshir , to hich it may said t o e b long , as it is close to Woburn and Woburn e A bb y . Wolver ton ( L ondon and North - Western Rail way) consists of an old parish and small — market town and N e w Wolve rton a distinct w e th e ecclesiastical parish , in hich are group d workshops and many dwe lling - house s of th e artisans of the L ondon and N orth - Western Rail wa w i in 1 8 2 0 0 y, by h ch , January 93 , 9 , in

0 0 w e . January 19 3 , 443 men er employed This is e the most noticeable feature of the plac , and is e th e cau se of its growth . Aft r the Conquest n w n w e Ma no of Brittany , to hom ma y manors er h was the given , built a castle ere , and first of the

rt . Th e n Barons of Wolve on churches are moder , of 18 1 but in that H oly Trinity , rebuilt in 5, is — a marble monument a life - siz e d r e cumbe nt effigy to Sir Thomas L ongueville (died This church has a good deal of coloure d decoration e 18 w xecuted in 7 7 , hich may have interest for e cclesiologists . Woobur n and Wooburn Green (Station , Wooburn — e e w . e e e Gre n , Great West rn Rail ay) Th s plac s th e e form one long village , and lie in vall y of W e e w th e n of the y , and b lo them , on ba k s is w the Thames , Bourne E nd (Station), ith its s i i u boathou es and r verside v llas . At Woob rn 2 75 BUCKINGHAM SH I R E

Gre e n the house s are pre ttily clustere d round an e e oval green . The church has been r stor d out of e e r cognition of its former self ; the lat N . piers and arches alone tell of its early foundation — In the floor of chanc e l are brasses to ( r) Swa n 1 1 2 Thomas y in cope, 5 9 ; ( ) a man in 1 2 0 of shroud , 5 ; ( 3) A rthur, son Philip , L ord 16 1 e 1 Wharton , 4 ; and in floor of N . aisl to ( ) w 1 88 2 e A skowe John G od yn , 4 ; ( ) Christoph r w 1 10 and ife , 5 . A palace of the Bishops of L incoln once stood e w w th e e h re , hich after ards became prop rty of the . e Whartons Philip, L ord Wharton (di d u u son is b ried in the ch rch ; his , Thomas 16 was e ( 4 7 the Whig stat sman , and his son was th e e ccentric Duk e

A foo mo e of an a f mank n l with r wit th h l i d ,

T oo ash for ou for ac on too e ne . r th ght , ti r fi d

A t the clos e of his e xtravagant and extraordinary care er in 17 2 8 th e property was sold . In those days Wooburn Hous e was one of the fine st places n was w 1 0 and a in E gland , but it pulled do n in 7 5 , — u no on . small ho se w stands on its site the S . E side S W f e th e e . e . o of vall y Not to . church som old e e e 1 th 16 th c ottag s , part ofanoth r ancient hous , 5 and ’ w e th e D E nc ourts c enturies , hich onc belonged to y and e e u e e c opposit the church som pict r squ ottages , u w e 1 th - w with q aint ood n ( 7 century) figures , hich are said to have c ome from th e c hurch .

Woo/rtone Great . , ( , 3 m ) is a e of e was e villag no importanc . The church r built

. e the in 1839 Notic N . font brought from ’ e f St Cuthbert s Church , B d ord . 276

BUCK I NGHAM SHI RE

Th e was 1 2 house is of red brick , and built in 8 0 after the 1 th e u the former house was burnt . In 4 c nt ry the e G re nville s manor cam to the , and has remained in that family to the present day .

The ch urch is a little to the S . of the house in th e s w and park , prettily shaded by tree , and ith an old u f u picturesq e arm near it . Architecturally the ch rch h as e e w e b n so much modernised that it is ithout valu . 1 - e e e It contains on S . a 4th c ntury chap l , private prop rty G re nville s— w the of the hich is separated from church , e — in W e nd w and has b en rebuilt N . . of hich on floor is e e w e ffi ie s w a black marbl monum nt , ith brass g , of E d ard w e e Grenville his ife , A lic , and th ir infant son . e nd e e e u e b At W . is a r cumb nt figur nder an la orate e canopy . On E . wall of the aisl is a monument to the last Duk e of Buckingham (di e d W u bton-on-tbe- Green Fe nn — o g ( yStratford , 3 This — is a small village and ch urch in this the re is a curious i th - e e u f 4 c ntury r cess with a r de e figy of a priest . Wra sbur y y , properly Wyrardisbury (Station , 3 m . e 2 rs i i e th e Stain s , } m . an un nterest ng villag , most southe rn i n the county Th e c hurch (0) among meadows W S . o f o ff w e ictur on . village a little the road , is ho ev r p e s ue l e w e w q y plac d , ith a charming vi across the Thames the e e to hills b yond . I t has been so much restor d as

e E. E n e . ow to hav littl interest The oblong . pillars e w the e are dividing N . aisl , ith small columns at angl s , e e noticeabl . Ther is an old plain font , a good sedilia and e e e e piscina, E . E . in charact r , and in S . aisl som Jacob an E E w a of carvings . Note also the . . flo ers on capit ls w tower arch ; in chancel by S . all the small brass to John Stonor in the dress of an E ton student 16 th e and knight in armour , early c ntury . The footpath past the church leads to the e F rry at Magna Charta Island . To the S . on 2 78 W RAY SBU RY— HIGH W YCO M BE

Anke rw ke t h e banks o f the Thames is y House , 18 0 o n e reb uilt in 5, the site Of a B enedictin Priory founded in the r e ign o f Henry I I . by Sir

Gilbert de M ontfitc h e t . M agna Charta Island , was 12 1 o n which the Great Charter signed i n 5,

th e 2 . f is nearly due S . of church ( 3 m rom Staines

Bridge by river). In the centre is the flat stone , . on wh rch ac c ordrn called Charter Stone , , g to

n Kin s e th e e . traditio , g John ign d famous docum nt o r » G . C . 86 mbe H i f. Wy co , g ( Chipping e th e e w in u 2 Wycomb , is larg st to n the co nty ( 4, 557 a w inh abit nts , 191 It has al ays been an import and was ant town , a Parliamentary borough until 86 2 6 th e th e Re form A ct of 1 7 ; in 16 , Waller,

e was . po t, one of its members Its pre se nt prospe rity aris e s primarily from th e f “ ” u e o . manufact r chairs Originally only Windsor, e n of e e or kitch , chairs b ch from the adjoining now woods were made , but chairs of all kinds e A are are manufactur d . large number of hands e e m loye d in the trad . p and down the valley from the old part o f w of w - e the to n , hich the mark et place is the c entr , most unattractive small houses and factories e o ld w xtend . The part , ho ever, is qui et and e w inter sting, containing the To n Hall and the Littl e M arket House som e old e houses in White Hart Street , and others in clos of proximity . Observe also the Priory , N . church , 16 - a th century house , and the al mshouses o n 8 of n . side Lo don road Opposite Grammar Sc h ooh

o n . o f The church , N side High Street , and 0 h rdde n e from i t by adj oining houses , is the larg st 27 9 BUCKI NGHAM SHI RE

2 0 2 . 1 8 ft . hi h church in the county ( ft long, 4 g in nave). Externally i t is far from interesting , but n s the interior is imposi g . A N . church wa buil t of 1 1th Swartlin th e at the end the century by g, Thane Of this there are no remains exc ept a piece o f a capital now placed i n a niche in o f w o f North aisl e , and a piece rough alling buil t w w native boulder ston e , hich is in W . all of N .

. E. E. was aisle The second , a late church, erected 1 12 i n the 3 th c en tury , and compl eted in 7 5. Of this there remain the striking arch and jambs of w now o n e o f . w w the W indo , the to er arches , the pillars and arch dividing N . aisle of nave f w w of rom the chancel aisl e, and the indo s the e w 8 aisl , hich have been restored . B ut the . door way and porch are certainly the most attractive o f E E and interesting remains the . . church , f though the S . ront in its original state had three E w w —it was 18 E. . indo s restored in 93 i n harmony was with alterations made long after it first built . Early i n the 16th century the tower was moved f o . from the centre the building to the W end . Note the curious j uxtaposition of th e tower

f w w . arch and the ormer W . indo , the P pillars , f of piers and windows of chancel . The roo s nave w are and aisl es and the to er of this period . The s dde din 18th battlement wa a the century . Note of the restored P . screen in S . aisl e, the corbels the f of roo , the monu ment to the first E arl Shelburne , in N . chancel aisl e . H e purchased the Wycombe A bbey estate in 170 0 ; it was purchased by the The se now first Baron Carrington in 1 794. hou ( school for girls) is s e e n in pleasant w grounds on the S . side of the to n . 2 80

WEST WYC O M BE

o f On the N . side the London road once stood ’ f 1 l th . St . John s Hospital , ounded i n the century

Of . e are this some N piers , capitals and arch s carefully preserved in the garden of the Grammar Sch ooL A remnant of old times survi ves in a meadow of 0 w 3 acres , called the Rye , in hich every inhabitant of the town has a right o f common for W o S. . tw cows and a heifer . On the ridge to the ’ o f w w the to n is Earl Carrington s house , Da es

Hill .

mbe s C . and W co We t G . y , (station , is a quaint old world village on th e L ondon and 2 O xford road , m . from High Wycombe . I t consists of one stree t many of th e cottages have ove rhanging

e Th e - n re the stor ys . most ancient looki g structu is church loft (lat e 15th century) on the right w of w hand side going est . One the upright ooden beams has a cross cut into it , and another by the wide gateway l eading to Church Lane has the ff of iron handcu s the village stocks nail ed to it . The church (60 0 feet) stands on th e summit o f a hill wi thin an an cient entrenchment on the o f w o f site a N . church (the lo er part the tower e s is medi val). It wa rebuil t by Sir Francis — — Dashwood afterwards Lord l e Despenser ih 1 see f o f 793 (as to him , M edmenham), and is ull

. w eccentric details Note , ho ever , a good carved f w 16 8 ont stand , a brass to R . East and his ife ( 3 ) and some wood - carving in the chancel by on Gibbons . Externally the huge ball the top of w the to er is most conspicuous . At the E . w - end is a mausol eum , in hich the half mad peer was w of e buri ed , and here the heart his kindr d “E S 2 8 1 BUCKI NGHAM SHI RE

' S was pirit , Paul Whitehead , the dramatist , pl ac ed . W W e st c o mb e o n t h e 8 . o f . y Park li es side the village . The house and grounds are not open to the public , but may be seen by special per e n mission . Desborough Castl e , an anci ent tre nc hme nt on , is clearly visibl e the high land

b e twe e n H i h and . to left . g West Wycombe

2 82

AP PENDI X

BR ASSES

E ies onl not inscr i tions or ( oa ts- o - a r ms [ fi g y , p f ]

e w e e A m rsham , A st ood , B achampton , B acons fie ld e w e c n a f , Bl dlo , Bl t hley , Bur ham , Ch l ont St e f n e e e e e e e Gil s , Chal o t S t P t r , Ch arsl y , Ch ni s , Ch s c e M e f ham Bois , Chi hel y , Claydon ( iddl ), Cli ton e e c e e a e u R yn s , Dat h t , D nham , Dinton , Dr yton B a w u n e u champ , Drayton Parslo , D nto , E dl sboro gh , e u Emb e rton Eto n H adde nham H alton Ell sboro gh , , , , , e a e e a Hambl don , H mpd n ( Great ) , Hanslop , H rd e e e d e r e w e m ad , H av rsham , H g l y , Hor ood (Gr at), c e e e n n e Hit ham , Hugh nd n , Iv r , Ivi ghoe , L a gl y, e e t e re e L ckhampst ad , Lillings on Day ll , L illingston e e a e n re n L ov ll , L inford ( Gr t), L inslad , L o g C ndo , u L ud arshall M w e L o ghton , g , arlo ( L ittl ), North a w e ne e n e M rston , Mars orth , Milton K y s , Miss d n e e e u e e w (Great), Miss nd n (L ittl ), Mo lso , N nton e e w e aw e L ongvill , N port Pagn ll , North Cr l y, e n e u P n , Quainton , Radnag , Risboro gh (Monks ), u e e u e Sa nd rton , Shalston , Slapton , So lbury , Stok e e we w u e w Pog s , Ston , Sto , S anbo rn , Taplo , u n e w c u we Thornboro gh , Thornto , Ting i k , T r ston , w f m a n T y ord , Tyringha , Upton , W ddesdo e e r e u e e e r W ndov , W ston T rvill , W ston Und w n urc h e ood, Whaddo , Whitch h , Winc ndon 2 83 APPENDIX

e e w (Neth r and Upp r), Wing , Winslo , Wooburn, W u e Worminghall , otton , Wraysb ry, Wycomb e (W st).

e e a e 88 0 1 1 1 Palimps st Brass s , p g s 3 7 , , 9 , 5, 53 , i 1 2 0 2 . e n e . 55, 4 , 49 Includ d abov

B

EE S Roo n S C R N .

e 10 1 12 1 8 16 8 188 Pag s 3 5, , 4 , 5 , , ,

20 2 1 1 2 2 2 2 2 0 2 2 2 80 . 5, , 3 , 49, 59, 7 , 7 ,

2 84

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2 89 E D I N B U R G H

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PR I NT ER S

TH E L ITTL E G U I D ES

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