Issue No. 2 A focusA break on the to least new known and excitingtourist attractions adventurous of Tanzania sights in December Tanzania 2012

Tourist Attractions in the SOUTHERN ZONE

Lindi | Mtwara | Ruvuma Focus on Southern Zone HARDVENTURE TOURISMMap| Least known of tourist attractionsTanzania

Tanzania Tourist Board 2

HARDVENTURE TOURISM | Least known tourist attractions N

Map of the Southern Zone

3 Tanzania Tourist Board HARDVENTURE TOURISM | Least known tourist attractions Contents Editorial comment

Southern Zone ready for more visitors 05

Focus on the least known tourist attractions in the Southern Zone The ruins of the 15th 06 Century Great Mosque or Lindi Region Friday Mosque, in Kilwa, Mtwara Region 23 Lindi Region, the largest then in Equatorial Africa Ruvuma Region 38

Tanzania Fact File 45

Southern Zone Cultural Cruise 51

A human pyramid by Makonde carvers, the symbol of Mtwara

Scenic view of Mbamba Bay Beach, Ruvuma region with canoes of area resident Ä shermen Tourists taking a break at Msimbati Beach, Mtwara in loin dress, a formal garb by coastal Swahili males Tanzania Tourist Board 4 HARDVENTURE TOURISM | Least known tourist attractions

Welcome to HARDVENTURE

TOURISM HARDVENTURE TOURISM Southern Zone ready for more visitors his is the second edition of HardVenture, a tourism news magazine. Its Publisher Tanzania Tourist Board maiden edition was launched in Dodoma, early in August 2012. In that P.O.Box 2485 edition, HardVenture reached out to numerous sites in the Lake Zone Dar es Salaam Tin which the least known tourists’ attractions exist, some of them in Tel: +255 22 2111 244/5 remotely placed villages and islands. Fax: +255-22 211 6420 www.tanzaniatourism.go.tz In this second edition, HardVenture has turned its focus on the least known tourists’ Editorial Board attractions vastly available in the Southern Zone whose composition include the Dr. Aloyce K. Nzuki three regions of Lindi, Mtwara and Ruvuma. The Zone, formerly thought as a Managing Director, TTB sleeping giant, is quite vibrant and ready to host more tourists! Ms. Devota K. Mdachi Director of Marketing The Zone has improved its road network and airports as a result it receives more Geofrey E. Tengeneza Principal Public Relations OfÄ cer scheduled Å ights and charter-plane services. Hotels and other accommodation facilities are also going through continued refurbishment and expansion to cater for Editorial Technical Coordinator increased arrivals. Savor Tanzania Limited Tel: +225 713 234722 A wide range of these facilities and the beckoning attractions are highlighted in +255 716 158 969 E-mail: [email protected] the 60 pages of this edition and they include a collection of ruins, beautiful sandy [email protected] beaches and dunes, wildlife, marine parks, untold lifestyles of the earliest and Advertising Coordinator tallest humans that lived and roamed the bushes and beaches of Lindi and Mtwara Savor Tanzania regions, and the magniÄ cent viewpoints and rolling country side of the Ruvuma. Tel:+255 754 366 447 Design and Layout Physical checks indicate that the number of visitors to the Southern Zone has Savor Tanzania Limited increased as more tourists Å ock to the sea and lake resorts in Lindi, Mtwara, Kilwa, Reprints: Permission is required Songea and Mbamba Bay towns. to reproduce articles, photos and artwork from this publication. Therefore, it is our anticipation that our stakeholders are sending desired changes to Please contact Managing Director the Southern Zone by exposing its then unknown tourist attractions to the outside Tanzania Tourist Board world, improving hotels and transport facilities as well as visitors’ services in the E-mail: [email protected] Tel: +255 22 2111244/5 Zone.

TTB can perform much better and improve the livelihood of the Southern Zone residents by consolidating revenue collections through increased number of tourists’ arrivals not only in the three designated southern regions alone, but also in and across Tanzania as a must see destination.

Aloyce K. Nzuki, PhD Managing Director Main cover photo: Lindi Beach

5 Tanzania Tourist Board Focus on Southern Zone HARDVENTURE TOURISM | Least known tourist attractions LINDI

Land of Tendaguru and little harmless dragons Much to off er, much to see the best time to do. A set of six letters of Lindi relatively looks like an olive Geographical Location (KLMNRS) have been curved from the leaf; a symbol of friendliness, a trait alphabet family to deÄ ne a complete shown by its residents. But there is INDI region borders Coast and set of a unique geographical proÄ le another L that stands for Liwale a Morogoro on the northwest of Lindi, which between 1885 and district in Lindi which was one of the and Ruvuma and Mtwara 1919 was the major seaport for the early trading towns whose origin is a Lregions on the south. Much of German colonial administration in the Shirazi word, liwal later corrupted in the western part of the region is in the portmanteau Tanganyika. The letters Kiswahili to read Liwali, an arbiter or a Selous Game Reserve, a wild game include: judicious ofÄ cial! reserve whose size is equivalent to Switzerland. K: Stands for the Kilwas and home to M: Represents Mtama, a vibrant It is located at 9:30 degrees latitude the Kilwa Kisiwani and Songo Mnara constituency and home to Sudi, a and 38:30 degrees longitude. The ruins which are UNESCO’s World world class historical site in the early word Lindi means a Å oating buoy or Heritage sites and Kilwa Kipatimo days of trading activities and political buoyant! It has also a funny meaning, and Kilwa Masoko, on the mainland. administration and also the only site a pit latrine pole! It occupies land currently used by Ä sherladies/women surface area of 67,000 square Kilwa was once the East African in the region. kilometres trading city port linking the kingdom According to the 2002 Tanzania of onamutapa in Zimbabwe to the N: Is for Nachingwea, one of its six National Census, the population for Middle East, Persia (Iran), Turkey, districts whose ruins of an abandoned Lindi Region was 791,306 and it is Indonesia and China. Whereas railway line and its position as the estimated that its residents can clock Kilwa Kipatimo, was the launching rear launching pad for the liberation close to or above one million and so pad of the liberation struggle for the of Mozambique, makes it stand tall in now. portmanteau of Tanganyika. the annals of history. Due to its geographical position, adjacency to the Indian Ocean L: Stands for Lindi, the region’s name R: Stands for Ruangwa, a newly shoreline, the weather in Lindi is and the name to its administrative head formed district and constituency as tropical and humid. town which to some locals means a well as a hub of inter-districts’ road The best time to visit the town/region town which Å oats while others say transport. is between the months of May and Lindi means Ä rmly anchored object. S: Denotes Selous game reserve, September, when the weather is Lindi as a seaside town was an the largest wildlife conservation relatively cooler. If you want to explore important port for early traders and area whose size is like the size of the attractions in Lindi that could be travellers. The geographical shape Switzerland and World Heritage Site.

EFORE, setting off to Lindi on the Dar-Lindi terminal at 5 o’clock September 1 aboard Machinga Line, highway, which is still under construction, a friend one of the major transport companies that offer Ä rst class had suggested that an air travel to the southern road transport services for southern bound/ travellers Bcoastal town could have been less tiring. After and tourists. I spent the Ä rst two hours dozing off. It was debating for sometime, we resolved that I should travel around 7 o’clock when we were jolted from slumber as the the 330 km by road. So, I left the Ubungo upcountry bus bus rolled at Nanjirinji, one of the busy centres along the Tanzania Tourist Board 6 HARDVENTURE TOURISM | Least known tourist attractions

A collection of Lindi attractions: The gorgeous Kitunda Beach, (top), PC’s House which was the ofð cial residence of the German Provincial Commissioner (below left), and the ruins of the Great Mosque, Kilwa Island (below right) highway. It were the voices of vendors could be one of the most traitorous mostly boys and females that awoke while the bus doing the 60 km us. stretches on Kibiti- Ndundu-Somanga road. Sometimes the bus engine Each and everyone tried to elbow out coughed up and gave loud hiccups the other by shouting on the top of his before it spluttered into life again. or her voice to catch the attention of the sleepy looking passengers. The Sometimes passengers could lament boys and the few female vendors and curse. But it was ‘all cheers’ as were selling a variety of snacks and the bus rolled at Somanga because it bites such as boiled maize, roasted was the end of the rough section of chicken, buns, and fresh fried sea Ä sh. the road. Slowly the bus veered into My seatmate and I opted for a piece an outpost electronic weighbridge. of boiled maize for snap breakfast. An electronic panel of the weighbridge Our next stop was at Kibiti, where the was facing us, and clearly showed the bus veered off a-29 km rough section net weight of our bus to the delight of of the Lindi-Ikwiriri road. The section the travellers. It was unloaded.

7 Tanzania Tourist Board Old German Boma ruins in Lindi, with trooping roots of Ä g trees trying to support it from curving in

Shortly, we were on a tarred 33 km section on the Somanga- At Njia Nne a.k.a Nangurukuru, our bus stopped for at least Masaninga/Matanda road, midstream Nangurukuru resort ten minutes to allow voyagers to have breakfast and access (nearly 75 km away). Nangurukuru is also known as Njia wash rooms. Remember it was on September 1, when Nne, literary means four ways because it is perched at the the implementation of a ban against roadside ‘relieves’ junction of the roads to Kilwa Kisiwani on the east, Liwale commonly known as kuchimba dawa took effect. on the west, Lindi and Mtwara on the south and Dar es Salaam, to the north. Kuchimba Dawa is whereby passengers disembark from the bus to venture out into nearby bushes to answer a call of nature! So it was a huge task for Lindi-Mtwara bound passengers on how they could manage to stiÅ e any urge or call of nature from Dar es Salaam to Nangurukuru, the only designated point for such a service on the 75 km route.

At least two decent facilities are in place for use. It is also at Nangurukuru, where passengers managed to access cold

A day in life of Ä shermen at the Kitunda Ferry, Lindi Tanzania Tourist Board 8 Focus on Southern Zone HARDVENTURE TOURISM | Least known tourist attractions

beer or beverages to jolt their sleepy bones and to wash Tendaguru beds home to dinosaur downchicken braai! It is a remote hilly and historical site perched 20 kilometres on the northwest of Lindi, off the Lindi-Dar highway. To Luxuriant vegetation reach there you have to hire services of an operator of a From Njia Nne to Lindi via Mbwemkulu (95 km), we enjoyed bodaboda and a photographer, of course, after paying a luxuriant vegetation scenery. But at some areas, we could Tshs 20,000 fee for the full day tour services. witness, bush Ä re as its lips devoured Ä ercely and mercilessly the traditional tropical forests and the tall savanna Tendaguru which in Kimwera dialect means steep hill, grasslands! A bad habit dies hard! Well. It was around 5 is a bushy site considered to be one of the greatest o’clock, almost 12 hours when our bus completed doing paleontological Ä ndings in history and home to the the whole 330 km road safari to Lindi! Tanzanian fossilisied dinosaur bones.

As the bus rolled into the town, we could notice that Lindi However, the unkempt track road, led our team to only a was a small town. The roads were clear and clean. Vendors few metres from the excavations or cavernous site where and bodaboda operators at the bus terminal were jolly, a German mining engineer had managed to uncover the perhaps in anticipation of making business by the new Tendaguru dinosaur materials, over 100 years ago. arrivals. I couldn’t wait much for my hosts. I was deadly tired so I boarded one of the bodabodas, and directed Apparently no tangible activities are being undertaken at the driver to take me to a seaside accommodation facility, the hillside site. where my hosts had made the booking. However, between 1997 and 2000 there have been It was a standard class hotel, off the old German port. It was some follow-up exploration expeditions to Tendaguru by a quiet place suitable for the 4 days I was to stay in Lindi for paleontologists. the HardVenture documentary or special assignment. More than a dozen diferent dinosaurian materials including I had a non-eventful evening. I spent most of the early of the famed Tendaguru Brachiosaurus brancai specie, evening hours in my hotel room making contacts to hosts, also known as Giraffatitan brancai were uncovered from sources and area authorities ahead of my schedule the the unattended site there after shifted to German where it following morning. is kept in a museum of Natural History.

The beauty of Lindi beaches 9 Tanzania Tourist Board Focus on Southern Zone HARDVENTURE TOURISM | Least known tourist attractions

The Giraffatitan brancai, previously classiÄ ed as national who died at Tendaguru after only eight months of Brachiosaurus brancai, is believed to be the tallest and hard work,” Dr Nassoro Ali Hamid, the Lindi area district heaviest dinosaur ever known. It is said to be 12 metres commissioner said recently. (39 ft) tall and 22.5 metres (74 ft) long. The area DC identiÄ ed one member of the expedition as It weighs between 30,000 and 60,000 kilogrammes, legendary Lous Leakey, who later discovered fossils of equivalent to 70,000 and 130,000 Pounds under an the early straight walking humans at the Olduvai Gorge, imperial measure system then used when the discovery and foot prints at Laetoli, in the nearby Ngorongoro Crater, was made about 105 years down the line! Some remains about 60 years ago. of little pieces of bones and fragments could be seen as on September 2, 2012. More attractions in Lindi Lindi once a seaside town built by the Germans in the late Legends recall of seeing lights Å ickering on the Tendaguru 1919s, looks like a hide-out as the Kitunda bays or ferries as well as, its sister ranges of Nangaro hills. Apparently, the (mikono ya bahari) separate the sea and the mainland, London and Berlin natural museums, respectively, have the efectively shielding the seaport against any impending custodianships of the dinosaur skeletons from Tendaguru. enemy attacks from the sea.

Hon Said Mtanda, the area Member of Parliament for However, Lindi was an important centre for ivory trading, Mchinga was a member of a delegation of ofÄ cials from the beeswax, mangrove poles and rock salt. Ironically rock salt Government of Tanzania that made visits to the German is still mined from sites also known as salt pans along the museum of natural history, presumably, to ascertain the Kitunda bay and some areas that lie on the fringe of the presence of such a high proÄ le national heritage. town, about 15 km along the Lindi-Mtwara highway.

More views The 10km long Kitunda bay, runs from the main sea in Large crew of workers were involved in the excavation of the east down to the southern tip of Lindi town or the the dinosaurian remains but the activity was interrupted by ‘abandoned’ port while the Kitunda hills, with thin forest the WW1 until in 1924 when an expedition from the British and sparsely tropical trees, appear in the back grown Museum of Natural History returned to Tendaguru. overlooking the ‘abandoned’ dock, and the former old German Boma, and the colonial Provincial Commissioner’s “The expedition team leader was William Cutler, a Canadian House or simply PC’s House.

Kilwa Kisiwani Resort, is among the insititutions that provide transport and accommodation facilities and services between the Island and Kilwa Masoko on the mainland, and beyond. Tanzania Tourist Board 10 HARDVENTURE TOURISM | Least known tourist attractions

Life goes on in the ruins of Kilwa

Kitunda hills also bisect the two ferries or bays; namely Sudi ferry/bay further down to the south and Kitunda ferry/bay.

The sheltered waters of the Kitunda bay form the eastern boundary of Lindi township as its left tributary snakes across the old port on the south opposite to the Lindi- Mtwara highway.

Sudi Bay/Ferry or the Ä sher-ladies shoreline At Sudi bay, visitors can meet groups of Ä sher-ladies fully involved in an economic activity then considered unbecoming to a Swahili woman. The women are using trawlers in shallow waters off the main sea at Mgao village and they were quite at home when asked for a photo shoot. Gereza Fort on Kilwa Island and lone Hippo (below) at Nalende pond, Lindi Sudi is also a world class historical site with huge presence of socio-economic and political information, such as the Among them are the collection of ruins of old mosques and 1880’s Light House, which is still intact. Dr. Hamid, (the area tombs of a spiritual leader, as well as Sultans of Omani, on district commissioner) was proud of the myriad tourists’ Kilwa Kisiwani (Island). attractions that exist in Lindi. However, the identity of a spiritual leader in Lindi, unlike “Lindi in terms of tourists’ attractions is like a sleeping giant, Mtwara, remains elusive because the tomb has been but the giant has awakened from brief slumber,” he said partially curved in due to strong sea waves buttering. The sampling out what he thought were the ‘dormant’ tourists’ single tomb is located 5km across the bay, east south of attractions in his area. Lindi.

The ShariɈ Tomb Seaside grave The Shirazi migrants from Middle East, presumably Iran A 10-metre long unmarked grave at Mwitange village (then Persia) were among the early foreign settlers in Lindi, across the Kitunda bay also makes a fascinating visit. In whose traces and foot prints have left indelible marks on the dilapidated grave, also threatened by sea waters, lie the existing historical and tourist attractions in the Southern the remains of presumed Lindi borne giant to have ever Zone, especially, in Kilwa, Lindi and old Mikindani which is lived in town, according to an area cultural ofÄ cer. Part of also known as Mtwara urban. the unmarked grave was visible as of September 03, 2012. 11 Tanzania Tourist Board Focus on Southern Zone HARDVENTURE TOURISM | Least known tourist attractions

The Arab House A visit to the 19th Century structure showed the turning point of Arab inÅ uence. Only scant information is available of the one storey building ruins located on the east of the pristine 20 km-Lindi beach stretch. Area residents could easily identify it as ‘Alabuhausi’ corrupted Kiswahili word for Arab House.

The ruin overlooks the water front at Kitunda bay, just a stone’s throw from the back yard of the main soccer pitch, Ilulu downtown Lindi. Some area ofÄ cials could link the Arab House, to the ofÄ cial residence of Tippu Tip a.k.a Hamed Bin Mohamed el Marjebi (1837- 1905), a notorious slave trader of Zanzibari origin, also known as Toppoo Tib or Toppu Tob, a moniker he acquired from the sounds produced by his guns when hunting down slaves. The house is also linked to a Moroccan traveller Ibin Battuta. Reconstruction activities of the Great House, Kilwa Kisiwani

The Moroccan trader is believed to have visited Lindi on his The building is also next to Customs House and the old way to Kilwa Island in1331, it’s highly unlikely he could have harbour. No impeccable information is available over the used the Arab House but some authorities in Lindi, believe actual identity of the building ruins, although some area that Ibin Battuta might have been there anyway! residents said it might have been used as a collection house from which slaves would change hands. It is also PC’s House is another water front 2 storey building whose overlooking the Kitunda bay and the Kitunda Hills. roof and partial walls have curved in. The former occupant of the ruins is linked to a German provincial commissioner Its doors are extremely too short, about a metre tall. The for the Southern Province, who lived there between1880s size of its windows is about one square foot. Some of its and early 1900s. Legends believe that the Germans might walls have curved in and part of its roof is also curving in. have chosen Lindi as potential hide-out and administrative headquarters for the entire southern province right from On top of the dilapidated roof stands a huge Ä g tree as its Mbamba Bay on the shores of Lake Nyasa to Lindi. Kitunda strong roots troop down into the ground like the tendons hills, could yet provide a nice viewpoint to visiting tourists. impliedly supporting the old building like pillars. However, an area cultural ofÄ cer was upbeat, the building was a Custom House German Boma which is disappearing behind trees that are The old custom was also a warehouse for the German East growing out of it. Africa Company. It is built close to the remains of a Fortress. Many of the buildings from the colonial period have fallen More neighbourhood ruins into either partial or total ruins. However, at the time of early Next to the 2-storey building ruins, there are two more ruins. September visit, it was only the Police Station which was The one on the left looks every inch like a residential house still in use. of former senior colonial ofÄ cers. The one on the right had its annexure transformed into a courthouse for the Lindi Two storey building ruins resident magistrate. Another dilapidated building believed to be either a Fortress or Boma, is perched at an area adjacent to the present day The ruins of an abandoned Lindi seaport stand in the police quarters, the ofÄ cial residence for policemen and foreground. Sections of the building have been refurbished women in Lindi Urban. and transformed into a tax administration block.

Tanzania Tourist Board 12 HARDVENTURE TOURISM | Least known tourist attractions

Reconstituted skeletons of the Tendaguru uncovered dinosaur on display in a Berlin German Museum of Natural History

However, The wharf and light house, have all gone, but cashewnuts are prominent Asian-inspired architectures the beach is still vibrant as scores of Ä shermen and that dot the township. Ä shmoms conduct their daily livelihood chores from there. Sandy Beaches Clear sandy beaches, fresh young coconuts dotting Fishmoms operate food stalls, primarily for the swaying palm trees, and the golden glow of tropical Ä shermen and tourists who would like to taste the juicy sunshine spice up the sandy beaches of Lindi. soup from freshly boiled (cooked) octopus believed to provide ‘stimulant’ to male. But there is no any medical “It might be sidelined, but its rich history, German colonial evidence to support the myth or realisation. past interwoven with area residents cultural insights, and national heritage and the strong Arabic inÅ uence Fishing village of the Swahili Coast, make Lindi an interesting place The abandoned Lindi seaport has mutated into a for tourists,” Janson Murray, a tourist from England said vibrant Ä shing village. Hordes of Ä shermen are found in recently. “(Lindi) is hustle free. No road pesters begging the area throughout the day and night either mending every visitor for everything,” he added. (Ä xing) Ä shing nets, coming ashore or just rowing boats to sea for yet more Ä shing expeditions. It is nice for a “The streets are open, clear and safe for you to walk up Ä shing tour while in the company of native Ä shermen in and down for your own pleasure. traditional dhows or boats. You could either just pedal the boat to sea and back for recreational tours. I’ve been here (in Lindi) for the previous four days. It is quiet, peaceful and nice to holidaymakers,” he said. Asian architecture An early Asian community migrants inÅ uence in “Such hustles are not in here (Lindi)!” The Briton, said, Lindi whose major trade included grains, sisal and he would proceed to Mtwara to enjoy his holiday.

13 Tanzania Tourist Board Focus on Southern Zone HARDVENTURE TOURISM | Least known tourist attractions

The sprawling Mkapa bridge over the RuÄ ji River, serves as a link between the Southern Zone and the rest of Tanzania/Courtesy skyscrapercity.com

Mnali Bay An encounter with the African giant bats at the bay-like island A rudimental technology is subconsciously applied by groups was just an exhilaration of seeing the birds come out of the of females who trapped the saline sea water into open Ä elds or mangrove forests and venture out into a Å y-past like parade pans and there the water could soon evaporate, leaving behind while forming an image in the sky that could resemble the plates of rock salt, which the women would scoop and crash pistol-shaped map of Africa. Before the sun could set over the to obtain raw salt, widely used in rural households in both Lindi mangrove hide-outs and after the bats had eaten to the full, and Mtwara regions. the bats could perform a Å y-past parade but sometimes they could Å y in spontaneous gaiety as they set out for the night Yet, I as a visitor could take a break later in the evening to Jiwe hunt for food! la Mzungu in Mtama constituency, and to the mythical German Fort in Liwale district for sight seeing activities. Rondo hills A visit to Rondo hills or plateau we thought would be enjoyable Jiwe la Mzungu, literally the White man’s stone, is a geographical and paying, if the visitors paths would cross with the Africa beacon pitched on the seashore in Mtama, about 50 km south bush little dragons as they are harmless creatures and they of Lindi. If the storyline of Jiwe la Mzungu, could be taken would shy away after sighting humans. They prefer exclusivity, seriously, it could consign Lindi and Mtwara, the two regions Dr Hamid, the area DC, said assuringly. However, our team that make up the southern zone, to the territorial jurisdictions enjoyed solitude and coolness on the beach below the plateau. of the sovereignty of Mozambique! The bush is made up of mahogany, planted teak and wide species of other tropical hardwoods. More intriguing with the 19th Century German Boma (fortress) in Liwale, is a blurb that its concrete pillars are believed to be Later in the evening, we joined area residents, of the Anglican standing on humans Å esh, who were forcefully buried alive. faith, as they were conducting bible reading sessions from an Why such a ritual! octagonal church for yet another photo shoot outs. The eight sided and eight angled house of prayers, was built in 1912 by No scientiÄ c evidence again could be gathered, hence the the Germans. human–pillar storyline is but, just a good myth! Wanembo, we will meet again. Salt pans/farms Before our departure, we set out to the salt pans/farms, about 5km, from the town of Lindi to interact with area residents as they harvested rock salt near the Indian Ocean coastal line. Photo and Text by HardVenture StaɈ Writer Tanzania Tourist Board 14 HARDVENTURE TOURISM | Least known tourist attractions

Photo/ www.coastalair.com

Getting there between the 12th and 19th Centuries. Stay under a shaded A visitor can conveniently reach each of the major towns in open sand beach as lunch with freshly barbecued sea or Lindi Region by either road, sea and air transport services. fresh water Ä sh is cooked and served for you. A Å eet of road transport buses operate daily passenger vehicle services to Lindi from Dar es Salaam. The octopus freshly boiled soup, preferably taken in the morning or evening is linked to aphrodisiac. Try it, you may Visitors can also reliably make daily connections between not regret. Lindi and Mtwara regions by road transport. There is a steady inter-regional network between Lindi and its Take an evening out in the nearby villages for story telling underlying districts. and kitchen tours and cultural interactions held in traditional African households’ settings, where the grinding stone, The Akukweti airport in Lindi is currently under expansion, pestle and motor are the most used tools in the preparation but it can be accessed through light aircraft by charter of Å our from grains or tubers as staple food for area families. services. Sail on a traditional dhow across the sheltered waters of the numerous bays and sea beach villages in Lindi. Road transport bookings to Lindi can be done from either Dar es Salaam or Mtwara. Air charter bookings to Lindi can Keep an eye out for wildlife; the pond swimming hippo, the also be done from either Dar es Salaam or through general little African dragons, the gaiety bats, butterÅ ies, eagles, booking ofÄ ces of respective service charter providers. and the rare visitors such as humpback whale, marlin and tuna. It is highly advisable that visitors to Lindi should use road transport service to sample the beautiful landscape, and Accommodation cultures as passenger service vehicles roll past numerous There is wide variety of accommodation facilities in the Lindi villages along the southern highway. urban and its suburbs which include; waterfront hotels, restaurant facilities in the region and all bask in a lap of What to do luxury. Lindi region boasts of pristine beaches ideal for sun bathe, motor sport, hiking, strolling, diving, Ä shing, Ä shing sport, Most hotel facilities provide bedding and breakfast to swimming and excellent snorkeling. To visitors with Å air visitors. Room fees rates are quite competitive. Hostels of an archeology, history, don’t miss out in the savory of with spacious suites and guest houses services are also a collection of ruins, formerly beautiful buildings dating available.

15 Tanzania Tourist Board Focus on Southern Zone HARDVENTURE TOURISM | Least known tourist attractions My Kilwathree day-stay Islands in the

t was around 11 o’clock, September 3, when our Lindi- country!” I interjected. “Yes. You need one, and of course Mtwara bound bus rolled at Kilwa junction, a bus stop after you have paid some Tshs.500 fee! Foreigners pay also known as Nangurukuru or Njia Nne. I dropped from Tshs, 1,500 (equivalent to $1). ’’ She remarked to my utter Ithe bus and walked a cross the road to an open air bus astonishment. terminal where other Kilwa bound travellers, were waiting for commuter buses (daladalas), that could take them to Well, Sarah took me to the ofÄ ces of Kilwa Seaview Resort Kilwa Masoko, the district’s administrative head ofÄ ce on ofÄ cials, whom she said would take care of my visit and their way to the Island, 2 Km off shore. transport to and from the Island, as well as other off shore Islands such as Songo Mnara, Songo Songo, Sanje ya From no where a friend who works for a gas exploration Kati, Sanje ya Majoma, and Jewel Islands off Kilwa Kivinje, Ä rm at Songo Songo Island, one of the off Islands, rolled some 25 Km from the mainland. her RAV4 car a few metres from where I was standing. “Mbuli! Mbuli!” She called out abbreviating my name. I At Seaview resort, I was entrusted into the hands a guide looked out to Ä nd out. It was Sarah a long time friend and who would take me around the Island and to its collections college mate. of ruins for a day’s tour.

I’m not happy, and I’ve been telling Sarah that abbreviating It was about noon, and the day was getting hot. I told the my name makes it to sound as if I was a goat in our dialect. guide, we would rather make the visit the next day so that I Sarah knows, but she has never stopped teasing me could spend the rest of the day with a former friend. While anyway! After an exchange of greetings I told her I was at Kilwa Masoko, Sarah, gave out a list of the uniqueness travelling to Kilwa Island for an assignment. I jumped into of each and every Kilwa, namely: her car, and we set off to Kilwa Masoko. zKilwa Masoko, the most relatively developed town and When we were about to arrive at (Kilwa) Masoko, Sarah the district administrative centre. In Masoko, you could wanted to know whether I had obtained a permit from trace the foot prints of early Arabic and European the district cultural authorities to visit the Island, an 11th explorers such as the Moroccan Ibn Battuta and Century and former thriving seaport. “A permit to visit my Portuguese, Pedro Alves Cabral and Vasco da Gama.

Tanzania Tourist Board 16 HARDVENTURE TOURISM | Least known tourist attractions

Cultural tourists in Kilwa Kisiwani (Island) zKilwa Kivinje, which was an early slave and ivory trading regional headquarters, further south for a full day tour. town, some 29 Km further north of Kilwa Masoko. Upon arrival I was taken around the Island, and I was amazed of its numerous collections of ruins. At Kivinje, you could follow the foot prints of slave caravans off to the interior via, Mbwa Maji in Dar es At the end of the tour, I had managed to visit a collection Salaam onward to Bagamoyo, some 70km north of Dar of eight spectacular ruins that bear witness to the pre- es Salaam. European architectures on the current day Tanzanian coastline such as:- Sarah, who has been living in Kilwa Masoko for the past three years, described the main tourists’ attractions in The Great Mosque or the Friday Mosque. Kilwa Kivinje as, the German Fort and an early market Jamilla said that the mosque was built in the 15th century hall, all form part of the collections of ruins on the three and that it might have been the largest then on the East Kilwas, including Kilwa Kipatimo, the launching pad of African coast. the MajiMaji War in 1905-07. The mosque was excavated between 1958 and 1960 Kipatimo is in between Kilwa Kivinje and Masoko and It and some of its parts reconstructed. The oldest parts that is a predominantly Christian community. remain are outer sections of the side walls and the northern wall. zKilwa Kisiwani (Island) and the off shore Islands of the 11th and 15th Century’s city. The façade of the mihrab (the aspect that points towards Mecca or Qibla) was built around 1300 and it has domed September 4, 2012 chamber that was supposed to have been the sultan’s At about 9 o’clock, Jamilla, the guide and I set out across room for prayers. The water tanks and the slabs of stone the 2 km channel to Kilwa Kisiwani or rather Kilwa Island that were used for rubbing clean the soles of the feet of the aboard a motorised boat. The Island is located 300 Km worshippers before they could enter the prayer house are South of Dar es Salaam and some 33 km from Lindi, its still in existence.

17 Tanzania Tourist Board Author (2nd right) in life jacket sets to sail across the 2km channel to Kilwa Kisiwani (Island)

Our next stop over was at the Great House, a large Makutini Palace (Palace of great walls) single-storey building believed to be the ofÄ cial residence It is a fortiÄ ed 15th Century building. It is to the west of the of the sultans that ruled the Island alternatively until the Small Domed Mosque and it is roughly triangular in shape. 1880s when the Germans brought an end to the Arab Its longest wall, that stretched parallel to the coastline, is admnistration on the Island. in ruins. Inside the complex there is a grave like the one in the Great Mosque also believed to be one of the sultans The remains of one of the sultans are said to reside in residential home. one of the four graves that exist within its walls. The once beautiful building has examples of reception rooms, an Gereza Fort amphitheatre of latrines and cylindrical clay ovens and The Gereza Fort that was originally built in the 14th century courtyards. collapsed. Apparently the building that is in existence at the site today, was built by the Arabs from Oman in the Small Domed Mosque 19th Century on the site of the original Gereza Forts on Some 150m southwest of the Great House is the Small exclusive orders from the Imam of Muscat. It is a large Domed Mosque. By appearance, it is the best preserved square building built of coral set in lime. Its walls, with of all the buildings in Kilwa. It is an ornamental building circular towers at the northeast and southwest corners, with beautiful domes. A long narrow room on its east is are very thick. believed to have been a Madrassa.

Tanzania Tourist Board 18 Focus on Southern Zone HARDVENTURE TOURISM | Least known tourist attractions

A Ä shing vessel rests its hull on the shores of Kilwa Masoko

The House of Portico Husuni Kubwa The ruin has an impressive entrance of Ä ne wood carving. Husuni comes for an Arabic word husn, which means Only small remains of the House of Portico, once a large Fort. Therefore husn kubwa means great fort. According building could be seen today at the ruins site. Seen on its to my guide, this building is assumed to be the largest pre- three sides is the portico steps from which the structure European building in equatorial Africa. got its name. Its doorway has a decorated stone frame. It is between a distance of 1 and 2km to the east of the Jangwani Mosque main collection of ruins on top of a steep cliff. The ruins of this stone building are concealed under a series of mounds to the southeast of the Makutini Palace. It is certainly an exceptional construction with over 100 The mosque was said to be unique for having ablution rooms and a large conical dome that reaches about 30m water jars set into the walls just inside the main entrance. above the ground.

Malindi Mosque The mosque has 18 domes on octagonal piers, separated It is another historic building worth visiting while on Kilwa by high barrel vaults. Kisiwani. The Mosque stood east of the Gereza Fort. It is said to have been built and used by immigrants from The piers are decorated with bowls of white porcelain set Malindi in Kenya. in the plaster.

19 Tanzania Tourist Board The ruins of the great Mosque Kilwa. Photo/joemeganafrica.blogspot.com

Husuni Ndogo of the old town, and to its east there is a cemetery with This is a smaller version of Husuni Kubwa, separated from tombs and pillars. You can reach Kivinje by commuter each other by a small gully. It is said to have been built in buses (dala-dalas) that ply between Masoko as well as the 15th Century with its walls as thick as 1m. It has two Nangurukuru. towers, one on the east overlooking the sea and another on the west overlooking the mainland. It is from Kilwa Kivinje, where visitors could trace the slave route to the interior! Then there is Songo Mnara and off September 5 shore islands-home to the petrogenic gas Ä elds. We travelled to Songo Mnara and the off islands, 25 Km from Kilwa Kivinje. My guide said the Germans ruled the We were taken around the Ä elds, to Ä nd out how the Kilwas from Kivinje, equally the British had its district head extracted gas is piped to Dar es Salaam. Adjacent to ofÄ ce in Kivinje, until 1949, when they shifted to Kilwa Songo Songo is an island known as the Jewel Island and Masoko. Many interesting old buildings dating back to the the surrounding smaller islands, all of them being important 19th Century as well as the colonial period are reminiscent marine bird breeding sites. of other early cities on the east African coast. Access to the Island is by dhow, and there is usually A handsome old German boma, stands ashore as does one service each day transporting workers to gas Ä eld. the covered market. Several dilapidated houses stand Dhows would take around three hours each way and an along the main street. There is an old mosque in the centre arrangement could be done in Kilwa Kivinje.

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Motorised cruise boat Å oats on the Kilwa Island water channel Getting there September 6 My guide hired a motorised boat transport from You could travel to the Kilwas, by chartered Å ights, road transport from Kilwa Masoko to visit a group of Islands 10 km Dar-Nangurukuru, and board (daladala) commuter buses to either Kilwa south of Kilwa Kiswani because we couldn’t catch Masoko or Kilwa Kivinje. From these mainland towns, you can arrange up with a local boat from Kilwa Masoko. Like to hire motorised dhows to and from the Islands, or just board local the rest of Kilwas, Songo Mnara, has its share dhows or join SongoSongo gas Ä eld workers when travelling to and of a collection of building ruins. The settlement from the gas site. is surrounded by the remains of a wall and the What to do main mosque that could be distinguished by its herringbone stonework and it has a double row The Kilwas are signiÄ cant for could be so exciting. Sometimes of high arches at one end. sights seeing and tracing early you would need to carry with you Omani, Portuguese and German enough water, some shades and The Palace which was a 2-storey ofÄ cial architectures, most of them in ru- hats to protect you from the sun residence of the Sultan, has tall walls. Its ins. Attempt to trace footprints of rays. Make interaction with organ- doorways are faced with thin stonework. To the the Washangani ethnic tribes at ised cultural groups while in Kilwa. east of the palace, there is a room with a vaulted Sanje ya Kati Island, now on Un- Upendo group a cultural troupe roof and porcelain bowls set into the stonework. esco’s extinct card. Catch up with performs traditional dances to There are also three smaller mosques, two of fairy tales of early traders and Eu- large groups of tourists. You can which are built around the tall walls. ropean explorers such as Arabs, also meet Changamoto Cultural Indians and Persians (Iranians) Group for live traditional dance About 3km southwest of Songo Mnara, there who criss-crossed the Islands as performance. You can take short is an area known as Sanje Majoma which also early as the 8th Century. walks to ebony forests (threatened contains the ruins of a number of once-beautiful African black wood) specie. To houses, complete with courtyards and stone Some traces of slave caravans divers, take your time out in Kilwa arches. The uninhabited Sanje ya Kati, whose could be traced from Kilwa Kivinje. with a good dive, sun bathe and residents, were Washangani, who in the 13th Remember the ruins and other Ä shing tours. If you are interested Century, strongly resisted foreign control, but marine parks are scattered in and in salt mining, take a walk in and they are on the Unesco’s extinct card. a cross the Islands and mainland around the nearby salt pans and towns, therefore, a good half day mangrove forests. In the evening, we parted with my guide, as I retired to my guest house for a night, ready for Accommodation my return journey to the hustles and bustles of There is a wide range of package your trip to any site in the metropolitan Dar es Salaam! accommodation by lodge Kilwa. Some ordinary restaurants operators as well as standard dot the whole road stretch from By Nyambuli Chitama and ordinary guest houses in Njia Nne (Nangurukuru), Mnara, Kilwa. Some lodge operators can Somanga, Njinjo and Nanjirinji. 21 Tanzania Tourist Board

Focus on Southern Zone HARDVENTURE TOURISM | Least known tourist attractions Mtwara Untold tourists attractions in focus

Raw cashewnuts dot on a cashew tree, the icon of Mtwara Region

Geographical Location and separated by the Ruvuma River The most dominant groups include the from Mozambique in the south. Wamakonde of Newala, Tandahimba, TWARA region is one Masasi and Mtwara rural. of the 26 regions of To the west it borders Ruvuma region. Tanzania Mainland. It is The region occupies 16,720 sq. Other groups included are the Mthe southern-most region. kms or 1.9% of Tanzania Mainland Wamakuwa of Masasi and Mtwara It lies between longitudes degrees 38 land area of 945.087 sq. kms. It rural, and the Wayao who live in and 40:30” east of Greenwich. It is also is the second smallest region after Masasi. Compared to its neighbouring situated between latitudes degrees Kilimanjaro. Sunrise is at 06:18 hrs regions namely; Lindi, Ruvuma, 10:05” and degrees 11:25” south of and Sunset at 18:20 hrs. The majority Morogoro and Coast (excluding Dar) the Equator. It borders Lindi region to of the indigenous people of the region Mtwara is the most densely populated the north, the Indian Ocean to the east are of Bantu origin. region.

23 Tanzania Tourist Board Focus on Southern Zone HARDVENTURE TOURISM | Least known tourist attractions

The Districts Road network Mtwara regions and to their districts, Districts that form Mtwara region Fully completion of Dar es Salaam- fast, smooth and efÄ cient. Excavation include: Kibiti-Lindi-Mtwara road would of natural gas at Mnazi Bay yet • Mtwara Urban (including,Mikindani, further improve the hustles on road promises supply of reliable and the old town) transport to and from the Southern adequate electricity for the hospitality • Mtwara Rural zone regions. industy, domestic, industrial, and • Newala The completion of the Mkapa Bridge other commercial activities in the two • Masasi over the RuÄ ji River has made road regions in particular, and the Southern • Tandahimba transport especially to Lindi and zone in general.

othing in my life had prepared me to bear the tail end of Tanzania, is a must see destination that has witness to astounding and magniÄ cent tourists’ so much to offer to foreign visitors and Tanzanians. attractions and sites that opened up before my Neyes until I recently visited Mtwara, a member of Anyway, no visitor can competitively discuss about the Southern Zone of Tanzania. the beauty of Mtwara, without making reference to the Mikindani Bay or the old town that was among the Ä rst Like in the fabled ‘la isla bonita’ or the beautiful island German sea ports/docks, south of the then Tanganyika. where every one would like to take a break and sample its “wonderful attractions, Mtwara, a dove tail shaped Bay at When in Mikindani Bay, it is reminiscent to listening to the

Tourists enjoy cool breeze on the Msimbati Beach, 25 km from Mtwara

Tanzania Tourist Board 24 HARDVENTURE TOURISM | Least known tourist attractions

lyrics of the classic, ‘Sitting on the Dock of the Bay’ as My previous discussions with authorities in Lindi and they rolled on one’s mind behind the roar of the sea waves Mtwara, suggested Mikindani Bay was just an old harbour as they rush and crash on your feet at the sandy Mikindani located south of Tanzania and within the easy reach of its beach. superb beaches and a marine park such as the present day Mnazi Bay situated some 5km off the old town and the Sometimes, it is as if you were absent minded. Yes. You tombs of the nobles and graves of the giants. are on the beach once described by David Livingstone as the most beautiful lagoon on the coast! Like any other sea-side resort, Mikindani, offers a wide “ I was sitting in the morning sun, range of activities to the world such as game Ä shing, diving, and I was still sitting there sunbathe, beach motor-sport and Safaris to the nearby when the evening came. Selous game reserve further south. Such safaris could be Waiting the ships, dhows and canoes roll in. organised from the refurbished Old Boma in Mikindani. Then I watched them roll away again. I was sitting on the Dock of the Bay. Similar safaris have also been organised from either, Dar Mikindani Bay!” es Salaam, Mwanza, Arusha or Zanzibar, and even from as It can be extremely wonderful as such magniÄ cent tourists’ far as Mombasa, Kenya. attractions and sites open up before your eyes in Mikindani. The 60 km Safari, takes visitors through cashew farms, What is in the name Mikindani anyway? forests and valleys before they could arrive at the great Ruvuma River and home to hippos, crocodiles and bird Does Mikindani, mean anything, or rather, what is the life of wide variety and to the Mnazi Bay Ruvuma Estuary origin of Mikindani, so I put that question to my guide, an Marine Park (MBREMP) in the Ruvuma region. active octogenarian, Mzee Kidume Mohamed, a.k.a the mobile encyclopeadia of Mikindani. Mikindani, like any early Swahili coast city was a fascinating “Legends say that very long time ago,” he recalled, “some medieval town with winding streets, allays, children Arab traders/sailors were looking for a hinterland dock standing door-ways ready and willing to let in visitors. where they could anchor and possibly replenish their There is also array of exciting blends of African, Arabic supplies before continuing on with their journeys in search and European architectures. of ivory or the despicable humans trade; slavery!” “As they were looking for the seashore, which, anyway At some point, visitors could become dumbfounded and was not far from the then little Ä shing village, the (Arab) awe struck at the spectacular tourists attraction, sights sailors, met some local Ä shermen up in the Bay and asked and sounds, as they stand at the Å oor of the Bay gazing at them about the location of the dry land in Kiswahili. the specks of the numerous attractions that kept opening up in an endless horizon. Arabs sailors: Nchi iko wapi? Literally, where is the dry land? However, so overwhelming were the moments and the sights of all the natural heritages as they unfolded one after Fishermen: (pointing down to the west, replied) another before your eyes. At several occassions, I couldn’t Nchi iko ndani. Literally, the dry land is further hinterland, hold my emotions. Tears rolled down my cheeks freely as I or rather the shoreline/dock is just down there. struggled to pull my emotions together, anyway!

Arabs sailors: Michindani! They applauded joyful. Mzee Kidume, the guide with sharp reÅ exes, suggested “Aureka!” Mapata Michindani…(meaning great! We have we should venture out in the surrounding vibrant lush stumbled on the dry land, Michindani!) Great! Then they green bushes of Mikindani to sample the ‘dormant’ tourist set sailed off westwards until they arrived on the shore of attractions, before, we could return downtown to marvel the fairytale dry land ‘Michindani’ dock. the abundant wonders that featured on Mikindani’s plate.

However, ‘Michindani’, might have been corrupted or A consensus was struck. With everything sorted out, our improved into what is today’s Mikindani, a name that has team set out at around 1 o’clock, Thursday, September stuck on the historic port town like glue, Mzee Kidume 6th towards the nearby bushes! said. After a 10 minutes drive, our car stopped at an old fresh However, the locals, including the octogenarian guide, water bore hole, built in 1913 by the Germans, according could not suggest or recall any other name to the fabled to its plaque. ‘Michindani.’

25 Tanzania Tourist Board Women fetch water from a German water supply point constructed in 1913, (see plaque inset) by rigging through the Mchuchu Hills water bed in Mikindani

A kilometre and a half, after the Mikindani heartland on the the land surface where it has been conveniently tapped Mtwara-Dar road, we arrived at the U shaped Mchuchu and harvested for 109 years running. In fact, if Mchuchu hills. hills could be rigged randomly, water could be spew out randomly, as well. 1913 bore hole We found a number of Mikindani women fetching water at Apparently, the two Germans constructed water sources the bore hore that supply water to hundred of thousands at the slopes of Mchuchu hills which are the reliable supply of Mikindani residents not connected to a water supply points of fresh water to thousands of residents in and network managed by the ofÄ cial Mtwara urban water and around the entire old city. sewage agency (Muwasa). One of them, a low pressure water supply point is on the The bore hole is perched at the foot of the slightly U shaped northern ridge of the hill, while the second point described coral rocky Mchuchu hills. as of relatively high pressure, is on the southern divide, down the green lush valley, slightly a hundred metres apart. Interestingly, the source of the fresh water is neither a well, nor bore hole perse, but an underground source of water This second source, is Ä tted with a 5-inch water pipe which to the Mikindani residents and a group of horticulture small supplies water to all households downtown Mikindani. No holders in the valley. According to our guide, Mchuchu hills tabs are Ä tted to the Mikindani fresh water sources as a sit on an underground fresh water table whose amount is result, the pipes discharge water at a constant pressure in unspeciÄ ed millions of litres of pure drinking water. level nonstop since they were commissioned in 1913.

What the Germans did, Mzee Kidume, told us, rigged Five Tombs deep into the belly of the hills until they arrived at a trapped Further west of Mchuchu valley, there are Ä ve tombs water table and thereafter, slid into a-two inch water pipe believed to be of nobles and highly respected Islamic that served as an escape route, on which the water would spiritual leaders and women who were buried there use to travel from the womb of the hills and emerge on between 90 and 100 years ago. One of the tombs is of

Tanzania Tourist Board 26 Focus on Southern Zone HARDVENTURE TOURISM | Least known tourist attractions

Sheikh Ahmad Mohamed Gazali, an Arab of Makonde Nearby, two men dozed off the cool sea breeze under an descendant. advancing evening tree and mountain shade!

According to our guide, if Sheikh Gazali was a spiritual Water pump house leader from say any Christian denomination, his title could Some 200 metres down from the 1913 bore hole, on the be equivalent to bishopric; a senior clergyman in charge of left ridge of Mchuchu hills, stands the ruins of a small church activities in a metropolitan city or region! house also built by Germans and later an old corona-make water pump was Ä tted in to supply water to workers in then Two of the other tombs belong to two female members of Mikindani sprawling sisal plantations, 10 kilometres from an African noble family (dynasty) that lived in Mikindani over the old city. 200 years or so ago. The water pump, has so far been brought down (removed), They were believed to wield strong inÅ uence in Mikindani but the building stands intact to bear witness to early particularly on social and early Islamic teachings. The noble architectural designs and the iconic coral rocks civil ladies were identiÄ ed as the late Binti Ngano Barakati, and engineering in Mikindani Bay. her daughter, late Shemshi Binti Mohamed. Underground lounge These tombs lie wall to wall (next to each other). Our Two metres deep in the back yard of the ruins of the pump guide could not tell exactly the age of the Islamic scholars house, there was an underground cave bar and lounge neither of the noble women at the time of their deaths. which was earlier used by the Germans and later by The remaining tombs contain the remains also of two other the British as a picnic hide-out and merrymaking during respected Mikindani Islamic scholars, according to the 88 weekends and holidays. year guide, the former Jumbe (area executive ofÄ cer) for Mikindani until the formative years of the independence of The interior décor of the circular-shaped lounge was of Tanganyika. hand made coral stones furniture, that included, a round family table, six stools and chairs. The guide identiÄ ed the late scholars as indigenous sons of Mikindani. He named them as Sheikh Hassan bin Hassan The coral rocks from which the furniture was carved were Nanyidange, and Sheikh Saleh Abdulrahman Mandoha. scooped from Mchuchu hills, precisely, a short distance from the site where the romantic lounge was erected . The tombs are unmarked, but they are fairly maintained and during our last visit, the tombs had been ‘white washed’ by However, the walls of the lounge have curved in, virtually a new single coat of white paint. burying the romantic beer drinking joint with all its trappings of luxury underground or beneath the legendary Mchuchu Horticultural site hill beds. Mikindani residents, most of them, women and youth are practicing commercial horticultural farming in the valley, Only a small opening of an inverted U could be seen after relatively on smallholder mixed farming basis alongside the walls curved in sealing off a drinking and feasting facility their traditional palm tree plantations. that had remained active for nearly half a century!

Our guide told us the palm trees, were as old as 90 years It was about 4 o’clock, when we emerged from the bush, of age or slightly younger. The craggy coral rocks, gnarled and our guide suggested we should head northwards of trees and the tall palm trees with dotting young coconuts, Mikindani Bay. and vibrant lush grasses are home to various species of birds and monkeys in the valley. After several windings and turns in narrow streets, our guide directed the driver to come to a stop. We disembarked Some troops of playful monkeys could be seen jumping from the car and stood before an old building that looked from branch to another as we arrived in the valley. Even at every inch like a warehouse. the presence of humans in vicinity, the sounds, clicks and Å ashes of the camera, the animals remained less disturbed. This is Mirumba. It was notorious for keeping slaves after they had been bought at an active open air humiliating The cacophony of jungle sounds would remind us that the (slave) market downtown, the guide announced. We could hills and the valley are habitats to every kind of small wild notice, the building had two small holes up its tall wall that creatures: the playful monkeys, mongoose, rats, birds, served as ventilation outlets, a trade-mark to early prison- snakes, ants, grasshoppers and wild cats. house structures.

27 Tanzania Tourist Board Three out of the Ä ve Tombs of Islamic spiritual leaders in Mchuchu Valley oɈ the Mikindani Old town, Mtwara Urban.

The slave-house overlooked the old German port/dock at the Mikindani Bay some few metres from the sea shore. From here, the slaves were shipped to Europe and Far East aboard ships, motor-boats, dhows and other early maritime vessels to begin despicable life in bondage of slavery, the octogenarian guide said. In the mid 60s, however, the slave house was refurbished and transformed into a sisal warehouse.

Prison House ruins From the slave house, we later visited the nearby ruins built about 132 years ago. The 1880 two-storey building once served as a prison, general postal ofÄ ce, a custom ofÄ cers’ mess for members of the prison and police forces is located south of the old city.

The ruins had some features that looked every inch to a general post ofÄ ce as well a jail house. Some of the vindalised features included telephone booth, letters box A former slaves collection house ni Mikindani which in 1962 was refurbished and transformed into sisal on its eastern entrance and a small window that used to warehouse be a bonded warehouse also located next to the eastern entrance overlooking the main Mtwara-Dar road.

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Former residence of David Livingstone where he stayed for two weeks in 1886. The building in Mikindani old town is being refurbished by the UK charity, Trade Aid

Again, by the look of things, It came to light that the second interacting with all the sundry in Mikindani in the company small window was the only outlet through which inmates of the two Wayao boys, Abdalla Susi and Joseph Chuma, could meet and communicate with relatives and family commonly known as Chuma and Susi. members, during designated visiting days. They were the two Wayao gentlemen, (Chuma and Susi), Reputed dwelling again who carried the remains of the former Scottish medical A few blocks away, and further to the east, stood the doctor from Chitama village in Zambia to Bagamoyo for reputed dwelling place of David Livingstone, a Scotish onward transportation to London for burial. doctor-explorer who arrived in Mikindani on 24th March 1866. He was buried on April 18, 1874, approximately a year after his death! Chuma and Susi, had managed to embalm Livingstone, stayed in the small dwelling of two Å oors, until Livingstone and mummiÄ ed his remains. How courageous 7th April, when he set out for his last trans-Tanganyika were Susi and Chuma? What a feat to illiterate Africans? journey presumably in search of the source of the Nile, Once again tears could roll down your cheeks! which cost him his life on April 30, 1873 in a village in the nearby Zambia. The house is currently repaired by a British Later, we opted to take a break and settle on the sandy Charitable trust, Trade Aid. A plaque has been embalmed pristine beaches, east of Mikindani Bay for an evening cool on the left corner of the reputed dwelling showing dates breeze after a hot half day itinerary in the bush to witness of Livingstone’s arrival and departure, and the number of ships, dhows canoes and rafts roll in and out of Mikindani days the Briton explorer stayed in the old city, presumably Bay.

29 Tanzania Tourist Board Focus on Southern Zone HARDVENTURE TOURISM | Least known tourist attractions

Portraits of Mwalimu Nyerere and Chief Mkwawa Senior (right on opposite page) hang on the wall inside the refurbished Old Boma Hotel in Mikindani. The Hotel operators have designated two high standard suites in honour of the two former leaders.

Thereafter, it was time to visit the iconic Mikindani Old The roof-top also served as an observatory point by the Boma Germans and later the British during working days, Mzee Kidume could recall. and later pay homage to the forgotten Nubi soldiers whose graves are located in the Old Boma’s back yard. The major water pump built in 1913 to supply fresh, safe and clean water to Mikindani as well as to catch up with We paid homage to the forgotten Nubi soldiers from the captivating dhow views oating on the sheltered waters of Sudan, who died in Mikindani while Ä ghting for the British the Mikindani lagoon. during the WW11. The roof of the two-metre tall concrete building is also The graves’ head stones are unmarked. Anyway, we concrete where rectangular slabs have been erected to managed to count a couple of graves in the Old Boma’s serve as furniture (tables and chairs). backyard cemetery. At Old Boma, Mzee Kidume, who once worked in the We were compelled to say a short prayer in honour of historic building was back at home as he skilfully rolled the unremembered soldiers from the Sudan. RIP gallant back history as if everything had happened yesterday. Nubians! It was vividly touching. We left the cemetery, but our hearts were still with their untraceable families back in This room was a bank (room), Mzee Kidume said pointing the Sudan. his walking stick, to a strong room with some defaced Dutch words inscribed on its black metal door. We signed off for an evening of nyama choma, by visiting a near by water pump perched on the slopes of Bismarck “It was the Southern Provincial Bank,” he recalled and viewpoint hills whose concrete was also used as an open went on narrating how the bank would open and close air drinking and feasting lounge. after its daily banking services.

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“At the start of (banking) business, which was around 8 The chief’s head was decapitated and taken to a museum o’clock, the colonial DC would arrive here in the company in Germany after his foot troops armed with spears and of two ofÄ cials. The DC would come unlock one of the a few guns, killed a German Commissioner Emil von strong room’s three padlocks. Zelewski, only a month after Zelewski and hundreds of askaris had attacked Chief Mkwavinyika’s base in Kalenga. “In fact, he unlocked the Ä rst padlock at the top of the door, and a provincial police ofÄ cer would follow to unlock On the other hand, Nyerere, the founding father of Tanzania, the second one at the middle, while Bwana Fedha; the and a revered Pan-Africanist, died on October 14, 1999. Treasury/ Pay Master, would unlock the third door’s padlock tagged at the bottom end of the door,” Mzee Another room is designated to Susi and Chuma, the two Kidume, recalled. men who accompanied Dr David Livingstone, from his reputed dwelling in Mikindani, on his last journey across Ironically, the bank room was closed and the three padlocks the hinterland. still dangled on its black metal door at the time I visited the facility early September. In 1861, Livingstone had negotiated for the release of Chuma from their slave masters. Susi joined Livingstone No one was readily willing to conÄ rm, whether the bank sometime later. room is still in use by the Old Boma new operators who have refurbished and converted it into a world class hotel. Livingstone, Damquart, the Ä rst German Governor to arrive and stay at the Old Boma, Gen Lettow von Voberk, and Mzee Kidume, took us around the facility, giving yet exciting John Cairns, author of the book, Bush and Boma (1959) explanations. Two rooms have been named after Mwalimu in memory of his life and indigenous Africans whom he Nyerere, and Chief Mkwawa formerly known as Chief interacted with while working at the Old Boma as a colonial Mkwavinyika Munyigumba Mwamuyinga (1855– 1898) or ofÄ cial, have each been designated special rooms at the the conqueror of many lands. facility.

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A human pyramid by Makonde carvers in Mtwara Tanzania Tourist Board 32 Miseti Beach now thriving Ä shing village HARDVENTURE TOURISM | Least known tourist attractions

13 feet

Happy, (left) a cultural ofÄ cer from Mtwara Urban, and Yusuf Kaliwaya, a community leader for Mikindani, demostrate the length of a grave of one of the giants that lived in Miseti Village, over 200 hundred years ago. The giants have gone into extinction

Mzee Kidume, however, conÄ rmed that Nyerere used Graves of giants the designated room, whenever he visited Mtwara in We spent the last two days criss-crossing the tropical the formative years of the independence of Tanganyika. forests and thorny bushes in a village known as Miseti, It was sometime in 1962, when Mwalimu Nyerere’s, eight kilometres north of Mikindani. We were searching the administration abandoned the Old Boma, to sever link with burial sites of humans believed to be the tallest ever who the colonialisation past, Mzee Kidume could recall. lived and roamed in the bushes and beaches of Miseti, over hundreds years ago. Treasure strove Up at the viewpoint at Bismarck hills, about 300 metres After a tiresome search, we stumbled on a site partially from the Old Boma, we were led to an aging baobab covered by thorny bushes, south of Miseti village, and Ä fty tree, under which, the area residents, including our guide, metres from a sandy beach still used by local Ä shermen. believe the Å eeing Germans had deposited (buried) huge chunk of treasure, including millions of rupees, then the We managed to locate at least 10 grave stones. Some of German’s legal tender (currency). Freshly dug-out soils the graves’ head and hind stones were placed between 12 could be noticed around the baobab to bear witness to and 15 feet apart to indicate presumed length of a single the endless such of the hidden treasure. grave! In between, there were also some graves whose head and hind stones were placed too close, precisely But no success stories on the hidden treasure could be three to four feet apart. told. Mzee Kidume had the view that some charm portions were lased on the treasure strove site to block any bid by Such graves were presumed to be of children, Happy, outsiders of laying Ä ngers on the hidden riches, a myth a lady cultural ofÄ cer from the Mtwara Urban municipal suppported by area legends. council, in which Miseti village is located, could testify.

33 Tanzania Tourist Board Focus on Southern Zone HARDVENTURE TOURISM | Least known tourist attractions

Carvers at a SIDO site in Mtwara is an ideal place for cultural tourists who would need artfacts souvenirs Tanzania Tourist Board 34

Board Tourist Tanzania 35

Photo and Text by Lucas Mnubi Lucas by Text and Photo

air to cultural tourism. cultural to air Å a with

Mi nikwaha (Good bye) for now! for bye) (Good nikwaha Mi t visitors visitors t Ä bene sites These sites. Parish Catholic the

We also met Makonde carvers at the Mtwara Sido and and Sido Mtwara the at carvers Makonde met also We

errand boy! errand

also stood in as a photographer and sometimes an an sometimes and photographer a as in stood also planned for October. October. for planned

it was quite late in the evening. It was Meckland who who Meckland was It evening. the in late quite was it dancers rehearsing ahead of an annual cultural festival festival cultural annual an of ahead rehearsing dancers

Sometimes he would take us back to the hotel when when hotel the to back us take would he Sometimes At Umoja grounds, we met a group of Makuwa Makuwa of group a met we grounds, Umoja At

the wheels whenever we needed him. needed we whenever wheels the groups downtown Mtwara. downtown groups

driver needs special mention. The youngman was at at was youngman The mention. special needs driver we had a brief interaction with some cultural tourism tourism cultural some with interaction brief a had we

Of course Meckland, Murji’s private secretary and and secretary private Murji’s Meckland, course Of Towards the evening on the eve of our departure, departure, our of eve the on evening the Towards

of the graves of the giants. the of graves the of sea waves. sea

the old town and in and around Miseti village in search search in village Miseti around and in and town old the real threats of being washed away by the splashing splashing the by away washed being of threats real

rst in the heart-land of of heart-land the in rst Ä itinerary, my of days two last visited the site in early September, although it is under under is it although September, early in site the visited

municipal council did commendable job during the the during job commendable did council municipal shing Mwitange village when we we when village Mwitange shing Ä

“ in exists that giants cer from the area area the from cer Ä of lady cultural young a Happy, In Lindi it was only a single grave linked to the extict extict the to linked grave single a only was it Lindi In

tourism attractions in Mtwara urban. Mtwara in attractions tourism presumed extinctions. presumed

cation and conservations of historical and and historical of conservations and cation Ä identi and Lindi, thereafter forcing them into migration and and migration into them forcing thereafter Lindi, and

Murji is also doing commendable job towards the the towards job commendable doing also is Murji scared stiff the early dinosaurian humans of Mtwara Mtwara of humans dinosaurian early the stiff scared

hair raising stories evolving on the the on evolving stories raising hair beliefs which which beliefs Uyuvi

It is an interesting site to visit, and listen to the numerous numerous the to listen and visit, to site interesting an is It Mikindani as if the locality was his personal effects. effects. personal his was locality the if as Mikindani

me describing him as seasoned tour guide who knows knows who guide tour seasoned as him describing me

whose size is equal to the size of two football pitches. football two of size the to equal is size whose It was Murji who had also introduced Mzee Kidume to to Kidume Mzee introduced also had who Murji was It

of the Miseti giants are scattered in unsecured area area unsecured in scattered are giants Miseti the of

of their children, old Binti Salehe recalled. The graves graves The recalled. Salehe Binti old children, their of Mikindani in particular and Mtwara in general. in Mtwara and particular in Mikindani

village (Miseti) to save their dear life as well as the lives lives the as well as life dear their save to (Miseti) village or ceremonial title of the tourism lone-ranger for the the for lone-ranger tourism the of title ceremonial or

(giants) stiff, and therefore they resolved to migrate the the migrate to resolved they therefore and stiff, (giants) Presumably Murji could be nominated for ‘plume’ ‘plume’ for nominated be could Murji Presumably

(witchcraft) scared them them scared (witchcraft) Uyuvi The deaths, linked to to linked deaths, The

Parliament, Mohamed Murji. Mohamed Parliament,

sincere compliments should go to the area Member of of Member area the to go should compliments sincere searches they met similar fate. They also drowned. also They fate. similar met they searches

urban, formerly a sisal plantation site successful, successful, site plantation sisal a formerly urban, shore. When, male parents went out to conduct rescue rescue conduct to out went parents male When, shore.

around the Old town as well as the new town, Mtwara Mtwara town, new the as well as town Old the around activities in the presumed shallow waters on the Miseti Miseti the on waters shallow presumed the in activities

Anyway, to make my expository expedition in and and in expedition expository my make to Anyway, shing shing Ä undertake or swim to went they whenever

Wrap up Wrap to drowning. The children mysteriously drowned drowned mysteriously children The drowning. to

, in most cases, from accidents linked linked accidents from cases, most in , masse en dying dying

more children from the families of the giants, were were giants, the of families the from children more promotion, funding and marketing. and funding promotion,

in her 90’s, told us that so many many years ago, ago, years many many so that us told 90’s, her in issues related to hard tourism; its packaging, packaging, its tourism; hard to related issues

and elder citizens. Binti Salehe, an elderly grandwoman grandwoman elderly an Salehe, Binti citizens. elder and y held warm discussions on wide ranging ranging wide on discussions warm held y Å brie We

Similar views were supported by the village authorities authorities village the by supported were views Similar

newly appointed Ndile was humbly apologetic. humbly was Ndile appointed newly

in the ethnic Makonde dialect. Makonde ethnic the in Uyuvi mission of the HardVenture Tourism Magazine, the the Magazine, Tourism HardVenture the of mission beliefs known as as known beliefs

When we met and having listened to the objective and and objective the to listened having and met we When linked their migration to superstition or witchcraft witchcraft or superstition to migration their linked

When Happy was asked why did they migrate she she migrate they did why asked was Happy When

schedule for the whole week. whole the for schedule

I was delighted because, the DC had had a tight tight a had had DC the because, delighted was I cer said. cer Ä of

otherwise. Some migrated else where, the cultural cultural the where, else migrated Some otherwise.

following day. following Not all the giants might have died of natural death or or death natural of died have might giants the all Not

Ndile, would like to meet me before my departure the the departure my before me meet to like would Ndile,

the driver informed me that, the area DC Wilman Wilman DC area the that, me informed driver the the thorny bushes in search of the graves. the of search in bushes thorny the

It was around 7 o’clock evening, when Meckland, Meckland, when evening, o’clock 7 around was It cer, has been taking visitors to to visitors taking been has cer, Ä of cultural Council’s

Phone call from DC from call Phone For 6 years running, Happy in her capacity as the the as capacity her in Happy running, years 6 For

OURISM T ARDVENTURE H Least known tourist attractions tourist known Least | Focus on Southern Zone HARDVENTURE TOURISM | Least known tourist attractions

Photo/www.precisionair.com

Getting there class transport services ply along Fishing as a sport in Mtwara is Mtwara region, presumably, enjoys the Dar-Lindi-Mtwara highway, and undertaken in a designated deep sea, scheduled Å ights services than any charge competitive fare rates. where once a Ä sh is caught is labeled other member of the Southern Zone. or Ä tted with an electronic device then Visitors to the Tanzanian end coastal let loose at the sea. Major national airlines, such as town of Mtwara, which is one of the Precision Air, and FastJet, an African fast growing cities and municipalities, Similar expedition could be conducted low cost airline, operates between are advised to use road transport, an a year later in an attempt to Ä nd out regional town and the rest of Tanzania opportunity that would allow cultural whether Ä shes caught and labeled the major towns and cities. interactions with natives and also wide previous year can be re-caught! viewing of the countryside. Air charter bookings to Mtwara can Simply; Ä sh, swim, snorkel, dive or be done from Dar es Salaam, Arusha, What to do just enjoy a cruise over the sheltered Mwanza, and Zanzibar, or any Mtwara region like the two other waters of the Mikindani Bay, once general booking ofÄ ces by each and members of The Southern Zone, described by Dr David Livingstone, as respective charter service provider. boasts of pristine beaches suitable the best lagoon on the coast. for sunbathe, motorsport, hiking, A Å eet of passenger service vehicles, strolling, diving, Ä shing, swimming, You can take a break to Miseti bush some of them in provision of high excellent snorkeling and Ä shing sport. land, eight kilometres from the urban district and bear testimony to the graves of the tallest humans that lived in the underlying village over 200 years ago.

Listen to hair-raising stories by Miseti legends as they unravel the myth over Uyuvi that forced the giants into migration and subsequent extinction.

Go out in to the nearby villages during one of the evenings yet for more story telling, kitchen tours and cultural interactions during initiation ceremonies.

A section of Mtwara-Dar highway in Mikindani

Tanzania Tourist Board 36 HARDVENTURE TOURISM | Least known tourist attractions

Adventurous visitors can board traditional dhows and sail Accommodation across the sheltered waters of the numerous bays and A good number of hotel facilities that include swimming beaches, either with or without local anchorman. pools surrounded by Frangipani and Flame trees are available in Mtwara urban and its suburbs, suitable for Visitors can also keep an eye for wildlife species such as visitors who want to enjoy their sundowners and wonderful hippos while reconnected to the Selous Game Reserve, views of coconut groves either from the sunset or sunrise further south and also for the humpback whale, Marlin and terraces. Tuna Ä sh species which seasonally visit Mtwara and Lindi. Some of these facilities are on the water fronts and with Experienced instructors can provide courses for beginners clean sandy beaches and dunes, dotted with restaurants, in diving, as well as other divers who want to explore the drinking joints and lots of tasty barbecues. You can make exquisite and unspoiled coral reefs. accommodation bookings from Dar es Salaam, Arusha, Mwanza and Zanzibar. Some hotels in Mtwara host websites to facilitate online bookings.

Some common words spoken by the four major tribes in Lindi and Mtwara

Kiyao words Kimakuwa words

Welcome : Karibu Tea : Chai Good Morning : Habari jaani jowechisu Chair : Chiteengu Breakfast : Vyakutaunila chai Good Afternoon : Habari jaani jotana I love you : Ndakusata Food : Chakulya Good Evening : Habari jaani Sorry : Ngosile I am Having food: (Ndakulya) nchonchochilo Good Morning : Habari syakundali/ Njoo tule : Kutulye Road/Path : Mtala Tea : Ichai (Kimurya Ichai) Habari chiekundali Drinking Water : Mesi gakung’wa Welcome for tea : (Karibu na ureke Ichai) Good Afternoon: Habari syamusi (Nguvenda Mesi gakung’wa) Breakfast : Ifutari Good Evening : Habari syaligulo Father : Baaba Food : Yoolya Road/Path : mwitala Mother : Mama Drinking Water : Mashi ourya No : Mena Grandmother : Bibi Father : Ababa/atithi Sitaki : Ngakusaka Grandfather : Ambuje ( My father) : Athumwa naga Ninataka : Ndakusa Child : Mwanache Home : Uwani Yes : eyo Boy : Nchanda Mother : Auma Home : Kumsi Girl : Mwaali My mother : Anumwanaka Grandmother : Akwiya/Abibi No : Ngava Kimwera words Sitaki : Akituna mi Ninataka : Kinotuna Good Morning : Habari jaliamba Drinking Water : Mbe Mashi ganywa Yes : Elo Good Afternoon : Habari jamui Father : Ababa Grandfather : Apwiya Good Evening : Habari jaliglo Mother : Amama Child : Mwana Road/Path : Mpanda Grandmother : Abibi Boy : Mirao No : Ngapinga Grandfather : Ababu Girl : Mwali Yes : Elo Child : Mwana Welcome : Akaribu Tea : Chai Boy : Jwashire Good bye : Mi nikwaha Breakfast : Mbeayataunila Girl : Jwandonya Chair : Ihiche Food : Mbeshalya Walk : Weta Walk around : Weta kacha

Kimakonde words Good Morning : Jauliamba/Nilamka Ndiyo : Elo Mother : Mama Good Afternoon : Jamui/Salama Tea : Chai Grandmother : Bibi Good Evening : Jalyulo/Salama Breakfast : Chakutaunila Grandfather : Babu Road/Path/Kubarabara Food : Chakulya Child : Mwana/Vyavana No : Nanga Drinking Water : Medi Boy : Mnume Father : Baba Girl : Mmae

37 Tanzania Tourist Board Focus on Southern Zone RHARDVENTUREuvuma TOURISM | Least known tourist attractions

The rolling Matengo HighLands and its magniÄ cent Mmbuji Rock (Inset). Photos/Prof. Joseph Mbele

Geographical Location The months of June, July and August are Wamatengo are the largest ethnic chilly with the temperatures dropping to group in Mbinga district; The Wanyasa, UVUMA region lies between degrees13C. Within the areas surrounding Wamanda and Wapoto reside along the latitudes degrees 9:35’ and Matengo Highlands in Mbinga district, shores of Lake Nyasa together with a few degrees 11:45’ South of October and November are the hottest Wangoni. Wangoni constitutes the larger the Equator and between months with an average temperature of ethnic group in Songea Urban. longitudes degrees 34:35’ and degrees degrees 30C. 38: 10’ East of Greenwich. Economic activity Rainfall Ruvuma Region is mainly an agrarian It borders the Republic of Mozambique Except for bad years, the region region with over 87 percent of its to the South and shares Lake Nyasa with experiences adequate rainfall annually. population residing in rural areas the Malawi Republic to the West. Mtwara The rainfall pattern depicts one long and actively engaged in land based Region is to the East. season which begins in November and production. ends in May each year. To the North East is Lindi region and in the The regional major economic activities are North the region borders with Morogoro Humidity agricultural farming, livestock keeping, and Iringa regions respectively. The humidity is about 88 percent during lumbering, Ä shing, beekeeping, mining the day in the months of March whereas and trade. Agriculture is the mainstay and Ruvuma region has a total surface area in the evening it may drop down to 37 leading economic activity. The region’s of 67,372 square kilometres. It has Ä ve percent in the month of October. major staples include maize, cassava, districts, namely: Mbinga, Songea Rural paddy, sweet potatoes, legumes, millets and Urban, Namtumbo, and Tunduru. Ethnic Groups and sorghum; while coffee, tobacco, The 10 larger ethnic groups in Ruvuma cashewnuts are the major cash crops. Temperature region include: Wamatengo, Wangoni, Ruvuma region has a mild temperature Wayao, Wanyasa, Wandendeule, SunÅ ower, soya beans, simsim(sesame), averaging 23 degrees celcius., depending Wamakua, Wapoto, Wamanda, Wanindi, Ä nger millet and groundnuts farming is on altitude and season. Wamatambwe and Wabena. also practised in Ruvuma.

Tanzania Tourist Board 38 HARDVENTUREARDDVENTURE TOURISM | LeastLeast knownknown tourist attractions

A banner invites visitors to the Maji Maji War Historical Museum in Songea

road safari to Songea in particular, and Ruvuma region Songea. We said farewell to each other, Haule and I wishing we in general, could be extremely exciting. Throughout the could meet if our paths cross once again. 976 km distance you are at home with the luxuriant tropic vegetations and the rolling countryside. As you In discussions that evening with one of the room maids, cheerful approach the town from the north you could see the iconic and Regina, made me yet an oral description of the beckoning tourists’ beautiful Matogoro Mountains, Mpandangindo and Wino hills attractions sites in the Songea. Regina, who was born and grew as Lukumburu Mountains stand in the fore and background up in Songea 30 years ago, has an eight year experience in horizons, jointly or each forming sensational viewpoints. the hospitality industry. She was conversantly at home in her descriptions of the existing historic and toursts’ attractions in her Further south, yet some other beautiful hills could be seen. I hometown. She could cite attraction sites such as mystic (the asked a fellow passenger, a middle aged man, seated next to me, great) cave, virgin forests, wildlife reserves, beaches, rivers, the what were those blue highlands in the horizon? He affectionately lake, an estuary marine park north of the River (Ruvuma), the named them as Mara hills. Mara in Songea? Incidentally Mara rocks of Mbinga and Tunduru, war museum, the 12 busts of slain ascribes to the name of a river and region located at north east of chiefs and memorial monuments, among others, and the shortlist Tanzania! “Yes. It is Mara hills,” he said, and explained that they seemed endless. If an array of such attractions were put together form part of the border between Songea township and Mbinga. and strategically marketed, they could position Ruvuma region as a unique destination some 976 kilometres, southwest of Dar es “Songea, he said, is a pleasant place surrounded by attractive Salaam, I thought as I laid on my back in my hotel bed, trying to rolling countryside and hills, which are good for walking in. The recollect Regina’s attributions of what she thought were the least Matogoro peak, which is part of the Matogoro forest reserve, known tourists’ and natural attractions that exist in abundance in could be vividly seen and within reach to the southeast of the the Ruvuma. town. Take one of the tracks leading off the road to Tunduru and you will enjoy Ä ne views from the mountain top,” he said. The following day, I decided to kick off my tour in Songea, by paying tribute to the men and women buried in a mass grave “If you would get some time then drive southwards from some 105 years since the last gun of the German machine Songea, via Mpitimbi, past Namatuhi village towards Mhukulu fell silent, symbolically putting an end to a 2-year bloody war and Mitomoni villages, hardly 50 km from the basin of Ruvuma of resistance against colonial settlements, and harsh working River, and hence the border with Mozambique, quite more conditions in cotton plantations of the Songea. Paul Casmir, beautiful hills could be seen; Lumbingu, Lundamwende, Manole, a curator at the Maji Maji (war historical) museum and a man Mpinganjuchi, Chiwulunge, Litembo, Nambunju, Kipululu,” the of middling height, brieÅ y stood in as our host. Reading from a man, who identiÄ ed himself as Jacob Haule, a Matengo, said written text, Paul started off rolling back the 105- year history as as I was completely lost in the unfolding long list of hills similar if everything had happened few hours or so ago. “ It was a small to a blurb in the “storyline of country with thousands hills.” The group of courageous men from the Ruvuma ethnic tribes, most bus was doing quite over 70 km per hour, and soon we were in of them brandishing traditional weapons such as chikopa (leather

39 Tanzania Tourist Board Focus on Southern Zone HARDVENTURE TOURISM | Least known tourist attractions

Wangoni Warriors dance during the annual cultural festival in Songea

shield), Chinjenje (axe), and chibonga or rungus (Ä st-like clubs), the Songea. The site of the mass grave or the Heroes Square is who stood in the Germans’ door-way resisting foreign occupation located in the Museum’s back yard. and colonisation, forced labour, tax and land acquisition,” he said. It is Ä rmly secured by a two-foot base made of concrete slab Twenty four months down the line and on February 27, 1907, with a number of short water metal pipes Ä tted around it to the hostilities dust ofÄ cially settled down on Songea consigning discharge waters during rainy seasons. Regional authorities have the war to unprecedented ending. However, it had inÅ icted high designated February 22 to 27, as special commemoration days death toll on the two warring sides. An assortment of traditional in which all ethnic tribes in Ruvuma, take part in the annual event war ‘lethal’ machine alongside some riÅ es (musketeers) and by showcasing richness and diversity in their cultural insights ammunitions captured from Germans, are on display in the and traditional dances (ngomas). Some traditional dances Museum. commonly known as ngomas, that feature in the cultural festival include, Ngoma ya Ligihu or Ingondo (dance), a heroes dance Over 200,000 men and women from Songea and its usually performed after a war bravely fought. Apparently, Ligihu neighbourhood including Chief Songea Mbano, who was the is performed at the end of a good harvest. The Lizombe dance, leading Ä eld commander died during the war better known as Maji a nerve easing ngoma is performed in ceremonies such as Maji! The death toll of the Germans had also risen to 400 troops. marriages and religious related events, and other anniversaries of Fifteen of them were Berliners, the rest conscripted natives. national importance.

So, it wasn’t like a Sunday School picnic as any Dick and Tom Other ngomas performed during the annual festival include would think. It was really bloody war ferociously fought on the Mganda, in which dancers’ costumes except shoes are all white; beautiful soils of Songea Paul! I said in disbelief. The Museum, notably, a pair of white shorts, and long-sleeve shirts, and pair stands on the designated memorial ground about one Kilometre, of white stockings, a whisker and a pair of black shoes. The east of Songea town. “Well, does the name of the town (Songea) dancers would gyrate proudly and yet leisurely to avoid sweating. has any link to the slain Chief Songea”? It was my next question Mganda dance is performed by Wamanda, while Wamatengo to the curator. from Mbinga spice-up the event by two sets of ngomas; Kioda and Lingwamba, a friend who attended the inaugural Songea Yes! Yes! The town was renamed after the slain Chief. The gallant 2011 Cultural Festival could recall. Next to the museum, stands Chief Songea Mbano, was publicly be-headed by Germans on the Mwalimu Nyerere’s monument, and in the adjacent, there February 27, 1906, three days after his contingent of nearly is another monument depicting a foot soldier whose left hand 100 troops were also publicly executed by being hanged and holds aloft a machine gun. The monument was built in 1979 in thereafter buried in a mass grave at a site designated as the commemoration of the men and women from Ruvuma who died Heroes Square. Deep in the middle of a garden the tree used for during the 1978/79 punitive war against Idi Amin, the disgraced the execution of nearly 100 native troops on February 22, 1906, despot of Uganda. The 12 busts of slain former area chiefs is also still in existence to bear witness to past black history of have been erected surrounding the Heroes Square, a gesture

Tanzania Tourist Board 40 HARDVENTURE TOURISM | Least known tourist attractions

symbolically showing the chiefs have taken an all-round defensive Nakawale, Mpingi and Milola mountains, that stood east of the position to ‘secure’ the Square or Grounds, against further iconic Matogoro mountains. invasions! The fourth and last day in Songea was more of adventurous. To wrap up a Ä rst full day hike-tour in the bustling metropolitan We had to travel to Tunduru, 70 km, to catch the glimpse of the Songea, we visited a number of sites; the Commonwealth historical (Tunduru rocks), and the 45 km coastline that forms part memorial cemetery, the 1900 German Boma which was the of Mnazi Bay proper, in the neighbouring Mtwara , and Mnazi Bay decisive battle line between the Germans, and the natives; the and Ruvuma Estuary Marine Park (MBREMP) in Ruvuma. citadel of the Dutch Oustafrika Rule that incorporated Rwanda and Burundi as well as a former German court house. The MBREP is an exciting project whose aim include the conservation of threatened Ä sh species such as dugong, turtle Thereafter, we had to retire to my hotel to compile the days’ and coelacanths and sustainable economic activities for the Ä ndings. Next on agenda (the second day), was a full day livelihoods of the residents in about 11 villages, tourists and drive-tour on a rough track to the bush in the company of area tourism stakeholders. The Estuary forms a wide river mouth of guide, Marcus Ndimbo. Our destination was to climb Matogoro the Ruvuma River into which the tide of the Indian Ocean Å ows mountains and the adjacent Mpandangindo hills. At the imposing and it is perched to the northern portion of the (Ruvuma) River Matogoro, we attempted scaling up its outstanding rocks. and (Ruvuma) basin, respectively. After some unsuccessful attempts, we resolved to settle on the Motogoro crest, about 800m above the sea level to catch Some strict conservation activities are undertaken at the Estuary a glimpse of the rolling countryside villages, tobacco farms, and Marine Park, the second in Tanzania, after the MaÄ a (Marine Park), maize Ä elds, before we had to retire to the hotel after having our in Coast Region. Some more tourism activities that could be lunch on the mountain peak, with one of its boulders serving as performed at the MBREMP, include: Scuba diving, snorkeling and a mat! swimming, windsurÄ ng, sport Ä shing, overnight boar moaring, construction, camping and sea plane tourism. The third day, September 8, we took a 50 km car-drive to the basin of Ruvuma River, which served as the ofÄ cial border with As we were returning to Songea, we veered off the road to make Mozambique for freshingly new sightseeing. Beautiful hills like brief stopover at a cave gate deep in Msamala Forest, some kopjes stood all the way. Lumbingu, Lundamwende, Manole, four and half kilometres (4.5km) from the Songea municipal hall. Mpinganjuchi, Chiwulunge, Litembo, Nambunju and Kipululu Marcus said the Great Cave as it was formerly known, was used came into closer viewing. Along the Ä fty kilometre stretch, by Chief Songea and his Ä ghters to stage fatal attacks against Marcus, the driver cum guide, had to cross eight bridges slapped the Germans. The ‘Spandau’ was also used as an arsenal and across eight rivers and the numerous streams of the Songea! warehouse for the storage of clothing and rations supplies. On our way back to Songea, the Ndanje, Lihiga and Lihuhu hills The MBREMP, and the Great Cave are some of the historical could be vividly seen. South East, on an earth road we passed attractions worth visiting whilst in Ruvuma! a village known as Litora where we had brief interaction with the villagers and also caught glimpse of some more high points of the Photo and Text by HardVenture Staff Writer

GGeettiing thhere underlying village Ä shermen and potters. Take a break to a marine Visitors to Ruvuma can reach there either by road or air transport. park at MBREMP research centre to catch up with the rare Ä sh A year in-out road network connects Songea, the regional species such as dugong, turtle and coelacanths. Of interest in administrative town with the rest of Tanzanian major towns. Ruvuma is the presence of local institutions that include initiation Charter-plane services are also available between district towns ceremonies, and communal working and age grouping or Chikudi, such as Songea, Mbinga and Mbamba Bay. Visitors travelling by as it is known in the native dialect. Therefore, visitors can freely road to Ruvuma have the advantage of enjoying the breath taking interact with area residents for an African rhythm, dance and the scenery of the rolling country side dotted with hatched huts, drum in any of the area pubs, where they can be served with maize and rice Ä elds, coffee and tobacco plantations, towering freshly roasted meat, Ä sh and chicken and traditional cuisine and palm trees criss-crossing rivers and streams, and tens of rolling wash it down by a glass of a wide range of brands such as lagers, mountains. gingers, beverages and spirits.

WWhhat to ddo AAcccoommmmoodattion Ruvuma region pristine beaches in Mbamba Bay can be ideal There is a wide range of accommodation in the urban and suburbs, for sun bathe, strolling, swimming and Ä shing tours or sport, as well as waterfront facilities all basking in the lap of luxury. There viewpoints and rock climbing. Venture out in the evenings for story are also some hotels and guest rooms with an interior décor of telling, folk-lore, kitchen tours and cultural interactions with warm hand curved beds and some other local handcrafts. Bookings and generous Ruvuma residents. Sail aboard a traditional canoes can be done in Dar es Salaam or from any major towns and cities across the sheltered waters of the Mbamba Bay, and interact with across Tanzania.

41 Tanzania Tourist Board Focus on Southern Zone HARDVENTURE TOURISM | Least known tourist attractions Mbamba Bay Leisure under the mountain bed

A Ä shing village under the Livingstone Mountain bed at the Mbamba Bay sprawling beach, Tanzania

t was a cool evening September 2, when to take care of passport formalities and to boat; MV Ilala, on transit to South Africa, an old friend called to tell me whether I oversee peace and order to thousands or Zimbabwe where they would work as was prepared to travel to Ruvuma, on visitors and a huge population of shops mineworkers. Ia special assignment that could take and stores operators, sprawling residential a week or so. After some clariÄ cations, I estates owners, public and private ofÄ ces, a It was also at Mbamba Bay where a Å eet thought the journey could be worth because post ofÄ ce, chain of guest houses, drinking of passenger buses owned by TeeTeeCo, I would reconnect with Mbamba Bay, a little joints and restaurants respectively. an acronym for Tanganyika Transport tourist spot south of Mango village where I Company, plied to and from Dar es Salaam, grew up, nearly half a century ago. Equipped with such facilities and attractions, 650 km north east of Songea, the Ruvuma Mbamba Bay is a nice spot to spend a day regional headquarters, through the notorious However my last visit to Mbamba Bay was or two holidaying or just waiting for a ferry to Lukumburu mountains. in 2008, and the September visit to my take you to the next destinations such Itungi hometown came four years after. and Nkhata Bays in neighbouring Mbeya Most of the passenger buses operated by Region. TeeTeeco and another local Ä rm Mwananchi Generally, Mbamba Bay some three Transport, were of the old British Leyland decades or so ago as we grew up, was just So some vivid thoughts of reconnecting to models. a sleepy little town on the shores of Lake my childhood Mbamba Bay to which my last Nyasa, deep south west of Tanzania. Now it recent visit was some four years ago were The drivers of the buses, and their voyagers, is a beehive of activity township on the foot reminiscent to fond boyhood memories could toil up the Matogoro mountains and of the Matengo highlands. of nice beach for sunbathe and amateur the notorious 12 km Lukumburu zig-zag Ä shing. During my childhood, I could hear route via Mbinga a coffee grower-town, to It has a low key ambiance and attractive adventurous stories of Mbamba Bay, the Songea and beyond. beach resort fringed by palm, banana and lake port that also connected lake-farers to mango trees. It is also a bus terminal and other ports like Itungi, are very hard to go However, Mwananchi, normally served gateway to neighbouring Malawi and other away. It was from the Mbamba Bay port the Mbamba Bay route. My maiden visit town. As a result, an immigration ofÄ ce and where hundreds of labour immigrants from to Mbamba Bay was in 1970 when I was police station have been pitched in town across east Africa used to board a ferry either going or coming back from school, Tanzania Tourist Board 42 HARDVENTURE TOURISM | Least known tourist attractions

the prestigious Likonde Seminary. My years earlier (save the short visit in July on stalls, women washing clothes and fellow seminarians and I passed through 2008). As the bus cruised into town, I utensils, and children swimming and the town on our way to Mango, our home noticed that Mbamba Bay was still a splashing in the water-all these add to the village, which was also, another lake-side small township. I checked into a lake view charm of Mbamba Bay. town further north of Mbamba Bay. lodge, a facility perched on boulders on the outskirts of town for both the Lake There are a number of places in Mbamba Therefore, on September 5, after spending and bush views. Bay for a snack or a drink. For example a day and a half in Songea and Mbinga, the Nyasa View Lodge-the Bush House, I boarded a bus to Mbamba Bay, and Lake Nyasa is a marvel to behold. Its and the Four Ways Pub, in pink and blue soon we were ascending the notorious pristine beach offers endless stretches of paints. Matengo highlands. As I looked, down the pure, ankle-deep sand, beside the clear window, I could see villages dotted across water through which you can see the You can leave behind the hustle and the lowlands. I thought of dropping there colourful Ä sh swimming. bustle of cities and be in Mbamba Bay, and catchup with Matengo folklores down where the day is slow and the streets are in the villagers, but my driver told me During the day, with the sun shining there for you to roam at will, and just a there could be no any early connection to bright, Lake Nyasa sparkles on the shore, stone’s throw away is the beckoning Lake Mbamba Bay until in the next afternoon and in the distance, all you could see is a Nyasa. hence I abandoned the idea. vast expanse of blue water. At night, all you could hear is the roar of the waves- Mbamba Bay may be a little town, but So, having reached the top of these -sometimes muted, sometimes loud-as being there, you feel it has a heart that is cool, wind-swept highlands, we started they rush and crash on the rich sandy big and warm. descending to the land of the Nyasa. beach or on nearby rocks. The vegetation changed from ubiquitous For northbound visitors, self drive or just coffee trees, pines and eucalyptus trees A stroll on this beach is a magical hired 4wds from the Liuli Mission, could to mangrove, bamboo, and mango trees. experience. The morning air is fresh be needed from local transport Ä rms or and cool. You can walk on this beach the area (Christian) religious organisations. As we hit the lowlands, I began to look watching the waves as they come rushing For visitors who leave or make entry of for the Lake. The road meandered slowly, to your feet, or you can admire the Ä sh Tanzania via Mbamba Bay, there is an crossing valleys and even a river or two, darting about in the clear water, with immigration ofÄ ce next to boat landing a, and some roof thatched hamlets. Then we their shadows racing on the bottom of site to take care of passport formalities. as entered Mbamba Bay. It was unbelievable, the Lake. Canoes parked on the beach, visiting a town I had last seen almost Ä fty nets spread out on the sand, Ä sh drying Photo and Text by Joseph Mbele

et Some common words spoken by the two major tribes of Ruvuma o, rt Kimanda dialect Evening - kimihi Chair - libehi m, How are you – mwonili Night - nikiru Road – Ndela Come in – karibu kunyumba Thank you - usengwili Water – Masi or Malenga ma Chair - kidegu Guide - Nintagatilai us Sorry - chondi Water - machi Table - meza Mother – Mau Food - chakula House - nyumba Father - Bambo Road - ndela Church - kanisa Afternoon - Yakhwela by Father - dadi Market - kulisoko Goodmornig - Mwonile or habari ya lukela hi Mother - mau Sorry – Pepai Bambo/Mau d Brother - mhachau Kingoni dialect Sister - ndombo Wake up - kuyimuka Thank you - Usengwile/ Zikomo Afternoon - musi Sleep – kugona Come in – Karibu mugati

s, d Getting there Accommodation ag Public transport links Mbamba Bay with the rest of Tanzania by to good road network as well as reliable air Å ights to and from the A wide variety of accommodations facilities such as restaurants, destination across Tanzania. Most air Å ights provide chartered bars, and the cottage, provide meals and drinks to visitors. services. d What to do Accommodations are either in single or double, each decorated sit Sightseeing, visiting historical sites for research or documentation, room combines cultural-decor and comfort with the latest as or just feel the insights of cultural tourism on hike-tours or as you amenities. ol, interact with the friendly and generous area residents. 43 Tanzania Tourist Board Focus on Southern Zone HARDVENTURE TOURISM | Least known tourist attractions

Distribution of Reasearch Centres and Stations

Current TAWIRI projects

Tanzania Tourist Board 44 HARDVENTURE TOURISM | Least known tourist attractions

Tanzania Fact File

Administrative capital Dodoma

Commercial capital Dar es Salaam

Climate Tanzania’s climate is predominately tropical. Coastal areas are usually hot and humid, but on the beaches a sea breeze cools the air considerably. The average day temperature is 30°C. Tanzania has two rainy seasons – the long rains from late March to June and the short rains from November to January.

The long rains fall in heavy downpours, often accompanied by violent storms, but the short rains Visa Issuing Centres and authorities tend to be much less severe. A Visa may be obtained at the United Republic of Tanzania Mission abroad or Consulate and also on The hottest time of the year is from December to arrival at all designated entry points. In case of Referral March, before the long rains begin. The coolest months and Multi Visas, applications should be sent to the are June, July and August, when the weather is often ofÄ ce of Principal Commissioner of Immigration overcast. In high-altitude areas such as Kilimanjaro Services Dar es Salaam or at the ofÄ ce of the and the Ngorongoro Highlands, temperatures can fall Commissioner of Immigration Services Zanzibar. below freezing.

45 Tanzania Tourist Board Tourism News HARDVENTURE TOURISM | Least known tourist attractions

ZARA TANZANIA ADVENTURES | http://www.zaratours.com Phone: Toll free +1-866 550 447; UK: +44-20 3287 7384; Tanzania: +255-754-451000 Fax: +255-27-2753105 P.O. Box 1990; Moshi, Tanzania Email: [email protected]/[email protected] Tanzania Tourist Board 46 HARDVENTURE TOURISM | Least known tourist attractions

T a n z a n

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F a c Visa Fees towns. Banking hours are from Time Standard rate for ordinary Visa Fee Monday - Friday 8.30 am - 3.00 Local time is GMT + 3 hours t is USD 50, for Multiple Entry Visa pm, Saturdays 8.30 am - 1.30 pm. is USD 100 and Transit Visa is A few branches in the major towns Electric Current USD 30 except for the following are open until 4.00 pm. Please note 220 volts AC50Hz Nationals with their speciÄ c Visa that banks are closed on Sundays. rates in brackets; USA-(USD 100) Communications and Ireland-(USD 100). Credit cards and International Direct Dial is available. travellers’ cheques The country code for Tanzania is Oɉ cial languages Credit cards (Access, MasterCard, +255. The outgoing international Visa, American-Express, and code is 00 for the United States, or F Kiswahili and English Eurocard) are accepted only at 000 for all other countries. major lodges, hotels, and travel Currency agents. A surcharge may be added Public call boxes in post ofÄ ces i The Tanzania shilling (Tsh or TZS), for this service. ATM and 24-hour and main towns operate on a card divided into 100 cents, is the cash machines are available in system, available from most small national currency. branches of major banks. Travellers’ shops. Several cellular phone l cheques in pounds sterling or US companies operate in Tanzania and Banking dollars are recommended, though roaming lines work near most major Banks and bureau de change are it may be difÄ cult to exchange them cities and towns. Internet cafes are e available at airports and in all major outside the main cities plentiful in major city centres.

47 Tanzania Tourist Board Health T Tanzania has a tropical climate and different bacteria, Å ora, and fauna than most visitors are accustomed to, so it is advisable to take a a few health precautions when travelling to make sure that your trip goes as comfortably and smoothly as possible. n

Malaria is usually top on the list of visitors’ worries, and prevention goes a long way z towards keeping you protected. Make sure to visit your doctor to get a prescription for the anti-malarial drugs that best suit you. a

The yellow-fever vaccination is no longer ofÄ cially required when entering Tanzania; n however this is still a requirement if you wish to visit Zanzibar. Other vaccinations should be considered. For more information, contact i your doctor well in advance of your visit.

Security a Tanzania is a safe country to travel in. Tanzanians are warm-hearted and generous people and are eager to help visitors get the most out of their stay. Tanzania is a politically stable, multi-democratic country. F As in all countries, a little common sense goes a long way and reasonable precautions should still be taken, such as locking valuables in the a hotel safe and not walking alone at night.

Public holidays c Unless otherwise advised, the public holidays in Tanzania remain the same every year. *Islamic Holidays change from year to year t and may vary 1-2 days, depending on the sighting on the new moon.

™New Year - January 1 ™Zanzibar Revolution Day - January 12 ™Eid El Fitr - March 29* ™Good Friday - April 6 ™Karume Day - April 7 ™Easter Monday - April 9 F ™Union Day - April 26 ™Workers’ Day - May 1 ™Industrial Day - July 7 i ™Farmers’ Day - August 8 ™Nyerere Day - October 14 ™Eid El Hajj - November 4* l ™Independence Day - December 9 ™Christmas Day - December 25 ™Boxing Day - December 26 e Tanzania Tourist Board 48 Tourism News HARDVENTURE TOURISM | Least known tourist attractions

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Best times to visit Kilimanjaro International Airport c ™Northern Tanzania : July to March Lies 40 km from Arusha and it takes approximately ™Southern Tanzania :June to March one hour drive to reach it by car. Facilities include curio ™Zanzibar and the coast : June to March shops, a post ofÄ ce, a bar and a restaurant. t ™Western Tanzania : May to March Shuttle bus services to the airport run regularly from Getting There both Arusha and Moshi.

By air Zanzibar International Airport Located approximately 7 km from the centre of Stone Tanzania has three international airports: Julius Town and takes approximately 15 minutes to reach by Nyerere International Airport (JNIA), formerly known car. Facilities include a restaurant, bureaux de change as Dar es Salaam International Airport (handles most and curio shops. F international Å ights), Kilimanjaro International Airport (KIA) and Zanzibar International Airport. Julius Nyerere International airlines International Airport, is located 15 km southwest of Air India, Air Malawi, Air Mozambique, Air Zimbabwe, i Dar es Salaam, and it takes approximately 25 minutes British Airways, Emirates, Ethiopian Airways, Kenya drive to reach it by car from downtown. Airways, KLM, Oman Air, Qatar Airways, South African Airways, Swiss Air, Yemen Air and Air Turkey l Airport facilities include duty-free shops, car hire, post International. ofÄ ce, banking and bureaux de change, a bar and restaurant. e 49 Tanzania Tourist Board HARDVENTURE TOURISM | Least known tourist attractions

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F P c fo Domestic airlines to major tourist destinations are either already paved a r There are also local scheduled Å ights from all three or under construction. w above mentioned international airports to all Lake Zone ju regions. These include: Precision Air, Air Tanzania, At the time of writing, paved road extends from Arusha c FastJet, and Coastal Aviation, among others. Your to Tarangire National Park and almost to Karatu, on T tour operator can arrange your travel requirements on the way to Ngorongoro Crater. s request. t (c There are a number of reliable bus service operators r By road running throughout Tanzania. For road safety avoid B From the north, paved roads connect the Kenyan driving at night. s capital of Nairobi with Arusha and cross the border at the Namanga post. T b A number of shuttle buses, leaving twice daily between b the two cities, also follow this route. The trip takes (e approximately 4 - 6 hours. F t H From the south, the road from Malawi enters Tanzania 1 at Karonga before continuing onwards to Mbeya. i T There are no viable bus services along this route. g Ib It is possible to cross the border from Uganda at l t the Mutukula border post, but transport options are b equally limited. Internal roads connect Arusha and Dar d es Salaam to major towns around the country. Roads e o

Tanzania Tourist Board 50 Tourism News HARDVENTUREARHDARDVENTUREVENTURE TOURISMO UTROURISMISM | LeastL|ea stLeast knownkno wnknown ttouristouri touristst aattractionsttra attractionsctioons Southern Zone CULTURAL CRUISE AN A-Z MERRY-GO-ROUND OF THE SOUTHERN ZONE TOURIST ATTRACTIONS

: Bamvua stands for a Kiswahili author, and long serving worker at the Old Boma, : Ababa, Amama, word signifying deluge or Å oods John Carns, recalls his warm relations with the Abibi or Ambuje, caused by high tides of the sea. indigenous Tanganyikans. the four words The less harmless bamvua that respectively (Å oods) would invade households As you cruise further to southwest, make a date refer to Dad, Mom, in lowlands, usually at night at Songea, where you will be introduced to the Grandma and Bcausing less apprehension, as it is part of culture 12 Busts. The cement busts of the 12 famous Grandpa,A might be the commonly for the residents whose houses are located near pre independence leaders of Songea, who gave spoken words a visitor would like to either Mikindani, and Mnazi Bay in Mtwara or the Germans a run for their money during the Maji to beware when addressing senior Kitunda Bay in Lindi. Maji war 1905-1907. family members in some parts of the Southern Zone. Don’t ignore visiting some of the bushes from The busts, garlanded with Å owers are erected which men and the youth venture out to gather around a large ground on which the Maji Maji Please remember to respect the honey or tubers like cassava known in the local Historical Museum also stands. cultural values of the southerners, dialect as Ming’oko which make part of a family for example, when one makes meal or delicacy. Once upon a time an anonymous once wrote! remarks such as Akituma mi, “When the sea or lake meets sand, beautiful which humbly means NO! It is as It is in some these bushes where cemeteries of things can happen.” They can happen whether just that. humans who are believed to be the tallest are you were on the pristine beaches of Lindi, located.Some graves have remained uncovered Mtwara or Mbamba Bay in the Ruvuma. Then, why don’t we make a while, some of them are identiÄ ed by pieces of stopover to an Arab House black grave stones. Beaches are like the Valium of the travel world. (corrupted into Kiswahili by area They soothe, they relax, and they make a visitor residents as (Alabuahusi) at Kitunda The graves could measure between 12 and 15 realize that “real life” occasionally needs escaping Beach down town Lindi for sight feet long on the ground! What about the evening these silvers of sand against the ocean or fresh seeing? roaming bats of Mnali bushes or Mnali bay in water lake are a reminder that the world can be Lindi that can manage to Å y into a formation that quite beautiful. The lone, 2-story dilapidated resembles the map of Africa. Wow! building is overlooking the sandy Beaches on the Southern Zone can offer endless beaches of Mkondo wa Bahari Make a date to these fascinating sites, of course, stretches of ankle-deep sand, beside the clear (ensuing water-bay), is linked to by the aid of an area guide and meet village elders water through which you can see a variety of the notorious Zanzibar slave trader, and listen to the stories of the giants and bats, colourful Ä shes and other marine life swimming Hamed Mohamed el Marjebi,( while on a full day cultural tourism cruise. joyful. 1837-1950) nick named, Tippu Tip, because of the sound of his Baa! Buli..! Is a common exclamation, used by During the day, with the sun shining bright, beach guns when hunting down slaves. the Wamakonde to indicate a surprise when one waters sparkle on the shore, and in the distance, Ibin Battuta,(1330- 1331) an Arab feels somebody is trying to pull his or her leg! what you see was an expanse of bluish water. traveller from Fez in Morocco is believed to have used the house Still on the cruise liner that can take you to the At night, visitors could hear the roars of the during his visit to Kilwa Island and Old Boma in Mikindani where you lay my Ä ngers waves--sometimes muted, sometimes loud--as other African cities. on a book titled Boma and Bush, in which the they rush and crash on the rich sandy beaches.

51 Tanzania Tourist Board HARDVENTURE TOURISM Cultural Tourism HARDVENTUREARDVE|N T LeastURE TknownOURISMOURI StouristM | LLeastattractionseastt knownknownn ttouristoourist attractions

: Coral reefs illustrate the early civil works of early visitors to the East African Swahili coast, Cparticularly in and around Lindi and Mtwara, MaÄ a, Zanzibar and Pangani. Majority of the coral rocks buildings visited were built over 100 years down the line, have either crumbled or curved in, while others are still in use.

During the cruise, you cannot afford to miss a number of cultural tourism villages along Lindi-Mtwara highway and in and across the two regions, as well as in Ruvuma, such as Mnazi, Mnolela, and Madangwa, Liuli, Lituhi, and Matengo, that have taken a leading role.

There are also annual cultural tourism festivals hosted at Umoja Grounds downtown Mtwara, and the Maji Maji historical grounds in Songea in which all ethnical tribes in the Zone showcase their cultural richness and traditional dances.

The annual festivals are held in October for Mtwara, and February for the Songea event. We missed out cultural ceremonies such as initiations (Jando na Unyago,) in which girls and boys are introduced to familyhood roles when they grow up. We had to cruise to the Sido grounds and at the Mtwara Catholic Parish, where two separate groups of carvers are involved in the carvings of the iconic Makonde carvings and I got a feel of the cultural tourism insights of these craftsmen. We wrapped up our cruise to Tunduru for further interactions with Makonde carvers.

: David Livingstone reputed dwelling place, is a 2-storey corner house building, pitched at the end of Dan alley deep in the Old town, Mikindani. A plaque, denoting the days, dates and year (1866), the Scottish medical doctor cum explorer stayed in the dwelling before he begun his long and last journey across the vast Tanganyika, from the south-east to the western tip and beyond, is embalmed on the left corner of the building now under repairs by ‘Queens’ charitable trust from Fordingbrige, UK, The Trade Aid.

Dances. Remember to savour traditional and sensational Sindimba dance by Wamakonde, Ligihu war dance and Lizombe by Wangoni, Mganda by Wamanda, and Kioda and Lingwanda by Wamatengo.

Some creative groups in Songea perform traditional dances to tourists to spice up cultural tourism programmes and annual arts festivals.

Tanzania Tourist Board 52 HARDVENTURE TOURISM | Least known tourist attractions

: Elo or Eyo, are two different but friendly words spoken by all the four major ethnic tribes found in the Southern Zone, meaning Yes or warmth acceptance and consent. Avoid trading on people’s toes, until an Elo or Eyo greeting is solicited and given out freely. Then there is the historical eight bridges spanned on the eight rivers of Songea! On average, one bridge is built after every 6.02 km as you travel southwards from Songea towards the Mozambique Eborder.

: The Five Tombs at Mchuchu valley have signiÄ cant spiritual and cultural history in the Old town, Mikindani. Located at reclusive locality, : German old ports in Mtwara, Lindi, and alongside, horticultural farming, the tombs are Songea, built in 1880s, make spectacular worth a visit. When we visited the hilly site, we Gviewing. The Lindi port is still in use, but Fwere told, three of the tombs were of Islamic scholars, on small scale level, while the old Mtwara berth, and two revered indigenous old women buried at the stands in ruins. cemetery, between 1902 and 1913. Don’t forget crossing or visiting the numerous ferries, usually by traditional The ports have huge history over ivory trade, dhows, rafters and canoes, as well as state of the art cash crops transportation and human trafÄ cking ferries. (slavery) to Europe and the Far East markets.

The ferries would carry visitors across the sheltered An array of more German structures or fortresses waters of the bays and gulfs in Mtwara, Lindi and Ruvuma. all built concurrently in the1900s await your arrival in Mikindani, Lindi (in ruins), Liwale and Songea. There are also the fossilised records at Nangaro and Tendaguru beds, 20km off the Lindi-Dar highway, which East of the Mnazi Bay, an excavation of natural indicate that birds evolved from the ‘theropod’ or the Gas deposits goes on. It was rewarding when ‘terrible lizard’ that has made some people to associate one of our authors, visited the site of Songosongo dinosaurs with lizards. Island, off the main Kilwa Kisiwani to witness some of the latest technologies at work. Then, there is a number of German Forts in the whole of Southern Zone and each has fascinating accounts that evolves on myths, and sometimes realisations.

While, we were in Lindi, we were told to include in our schedule a date at Machole, 5 km from Lindi, where we bore witness to some of the freckles of nature as a fresh water point , completely overrun by sea waters during : Hospital ruins downtown high tides, but when the sea ebbs, the natural fresh point the Old town, Mikindani, bear emerges out proudly for visitors to sample its fresh liquid. witness to human’s neglect. Wow! However, what stands in site of what was a beautiful We also visited the cemetery of the forgotten Nubi Hbuilding of the southern provincial hospital, soldiers from the Sudan, who fought for the British during is part of portico steps of the once 2-storey the WW II. The fallen Nubi soldiers were buried in a solitary 1880s building! Hanging site. Yes! Are cemetery in the backyard of the Old Boma in Mikindani. you aware of the existence of a hanging site in Ruvuma region located in downtown Some parts of the graves of the famed Nubians are visible Songea? but many others have curved in. Take a break to the site and receive some Fordingbrige is the physical base of the UK charity hair-raising historical narrations from a organisation, apparently involved in a number of curator particulaly how the 12 chiefs and community based projects in Mikindani and are operating 200 foot soldiers who had Ä ercely resisted from the refurbished Old Boma. foreign invasions were thereafter executed in public and their remains buried in a mass grave!

53 Tanzania Tourist Board Cultural Tourism HARDVENTURE TOURISM | Least known tourist attractions

Kilwa Island as s

: Iftar? Yes! But this time around, it is not the usual Iftar, the light meal : Jaliamba or Jaani Jotana is but simple W served by Moslems to mark the break of fasting during the holy month greetings in the Southern Zone. Jaliamba means vis of Ramadhani. Good Morning, while Jaani and Jotana is Good sh But the Iftar or Ifutari, in Kiswahili to the Wamakuwa ethnic tribes Afternoon! If you are a quick language learner, bo simply is tea. Yes! Therefore, if a Mmakuwa family invites you for an try the tongue twister: Jaani nchonchochilo for M IIfutari in Kumusi (at home), don’t wait until 7o’clock in the evening! You JGood Evening! are invited for a morning tea!

: At a distance of 70km from : The M boasts of numerous along the coast; a rare feat on the Tanzanian ( Mtwara, down south there tourists or historical sites in coast. Its sand beaches run a distance of 12 s is a source of fresh water the Sothern Zone. Here are km from the Msimbati peninsula, via Ras R known to the area residents some of them worth cruising Mivinjeni and Ras Ruvula to the area police as Lake Ketele. in and around. Mirumba post. T L Mslave house, located 4 Km north of the The beach is widely used for leisure and o When we visited the area our guide told Mikindani heartland. recreations such as water and motor sports. M us that there was no available evidence to show any existence of a river or It was from this house, with three small A cruise to Mbamba Bay, a sheltered T valley that feeds water to the Lake, windows, where captured slaves were lead fresh water site southwest of Songea for t which also known as the Lone Lake, to the port/harbour and shipped into slavery sightseeing, beach hikes/strolls, Ä shing, g a unique plus to the abundant tourists’ bondage. Miseti unmarked cemetery, eight and sunbathes, could make a full day attractions available in the Southern km north east of Mikindani, there are thick itinerary of unforgettable experience! S Zone. The Lake is the source of life bushes. In these bushes, there are graves MajiMaji historical Museum in Songea has P to local Ä shermen, hippos, and fresh of the tallest humans that lived and roamed documented the lives and chiefdoms of the s water Ä shes. Miseti bushland and its sandy beaches, over 12 early political administration and spiritual a 100 years ago. Some of the graves could leaders of Ruvuma region. P Get a glimpse of a Light House that measure between 12 and 15 feet, at the last s was built in 1886 by the Germans, at visit, early September. Mnazi Bay Marine Park (in Mtwara) is the Sudi, 40km from Lindi. headland of Ras Msangamkuu and the H Msimbati Beach located 25km from gate way to the three islands of Namponda, c Over 126 years down the line, the Mikindani old town, is ideal for its sand dunes Membelwa or Mongo and Kisiwa Kidogo. t Light House is still intact. that can rise to a 15m height, stretching 3 km Mnazi Bay Ruvuma Estuary Marine Park a

Tanzania Tourist Board 54 HARDVENTURE TOURISM | Least known tourist attractions s seen from the air

: Kilwa Island is the next cruise destination where author samples ple Well, while visiting the Southern Zone, make a date to the cultural inÅ uence of the Swahili people over other communities ans visit Jiwe la Mzungu, beacon pitched on the western such as Arabs, the Shiraz, and some Caucasians. od shore of the Indian Ocean, purporting to be border er, boundary between Tanzania and its southern neighbour Take a half day walk around the Songo Mnara and later in Kipatimo for Mozambique. Kruins, to reÅ ect on the aftermath of the July 1905 and August 1907 Maji Maji Uprising against German invasion.

n (MBREMP) a research centre that lies 2 south of Mtwara on the mouth of Ruvuma s River, hence the Ruvuma Estuary. e The estuary also forms the northern portion d of the Ruvuma River/Delta and the border to s. Mozambique.

d The combined ratio of the two Bays/Parks or to marine life is the highest in East Africa, my g, guide told me. y e! Some tourism activities on the two Bays/ s Parks include scuba diving, snorkeling/ e swimming, sport Ä shing and wind surÄ ng, al among others. They are worth visiting. The Parks are home to threatened Ä sh species such as dugong, coelacanth and turtles. e e However, a visit to MBREMP is strictly a, controlled, and before making any visit o. to the centre a permit is sought from area k authorities.

55 Tanzania Tourist Board Tourism News HARDVENTURE TOURISM | Least known tourist attractions R T s r c

: Nandele village, Kilwa Mtwara and stands a well manicured heros of Mozambique between the early 60s and district, holds lots of world square or cemetery. The epitaphs on the two mid 70s. Historians and military/political class information. It was here adjoining Uhuru Monuments read: “Here lays researchers can Ä nd the site a Ä eld day! sometime in July 1905; where the souls of the gallant sons and daughters the Ä rst shot against colonial of Tanzania, who died for a just course; the Don’t skip out the Nangaro hills, along Ninvasion was Ä red. The bloody war dragged African liberation.” Lindi-Dar road, where during the night, on for two years until August 1907 and some odd objects would Å ick out some light spread out into neighbouring regions. It is Names and military ranks of the fallen similar to the stars in a milk-way. Legends a historical site worth visiting. You can also heroes and heroines are also inscribed on in the neighborhood attribute the shiny night view stocks of Hippos lazing out of a water the epitaph embalmed on all grave stones. objects to the remains of some dinosaurian pond as they receive oral instructions from a materials left on the site during the 1900s village elder! Down North West in Nachingwea, there exploration and excavation activities. Venture exists a rear launching pad; a military camp out in the night for fun and adventure as you Naliendele can be the next stop over as and a 10km underground tunnel, formerly sample the numerous existing attractions in this site is located 15km from the town of used by Frelimo Ä ghters during the liberation the Southern Zone.

: Old Boma in Mikindani is the icon of the Old city. Built 1885 by the Germans as an administration : Pemba village! Yes another Pemba in Tanzania, this block, it was also used by the British at the end time around, it is located in the Southern Zone, the of WW1 and then Government of Tanganyika, in its tourism sleeping giant. Precisely, Pemba village is formative years of independence in 1960s. known for its clear sandy beaches, the famed valium O for travellers. The Old Boma is perched on the slopes of Bismarck Hills, P formerly a German viewpoint. Apparently, the Old Boma has been You can sail to the beach village aboard a traditional dhow across refurbished and converted into a world class hotel by UK based the sheltered waters of the Mikindani Bay to enjoy sun bathe, charitable organisation, Trade Aid. There is a collection of old and also observe villagers going out of the sea to Ä sh as a group bomas across the Southern Zone. of students enjoy picnics and day off in solitude on the groovy sandy beach! The Octopus soup prepared from the freshly caught sea Ä sh is readily available for visitors on kitchen tours in and around Lindi : ‘Queens’ charity trust from Fordingbridge, UK, and Mtwara villages. Take time to listen to stories by the market a Trade Aid, is involved in a number of community moms, and uncover myths that surround the potency of the six- based projects in Mikindani old town, including Ä nger Ä sh soup. It is juicy, tasty and extremely delicious. the refurbishment of the Old Boma, and the T dwelling place of David Livingstone. The UK Trust f Please remember to make a date with an octogenarian Mzee Qalso provides vocational education and creates opportunities for d Kidume Mohamed, the mobile encyclopedia of Mikindani, and sustainable employment in the old city under a cultural tourism b listen to him as he rolls back history as if everything just happened programme. It is a Southern Zone multi-cultural exchange t yesterday. venture.

Tanzania Tourist Board 56 CulturalCultural TourismTourism HARDVENTUREARDHVARDVENTUREENTURE TOURISMOU RTISOURISMM | LeastLea|st knownkLeastnown known ttouristourist tourist aattractionsttract attractionsioons

: Rondo Plateau (pictured below) is home to the rare specie For visitors with a Å air in adventurism they should make a date to of the African little dragons. Make a tour to the forests and the historic rocks of Mbinga, Matogoro, and Tunduru and attempt a the tropical hardwoods on the plateau, for clear viewpoints, daring scale up to catch the glimpse of a beautiful rolling countryside. Rand solitude recollections and leisure! If you are unsuccessful in rocks climbing, don’t despair, just settle Taking a break to the mighty Ruvuma River and Ruvuma Basin further down for lunch on any of the hilltops of the iconic mountains of south is quite rewarding. The blue waters of the Ruvuma River is the Ruvuma. residence of hippos, crocodiles, mud Ä sh stocks, a variety of bird life, coral reefs, mangrove forest and sea grass beds.

Rondo Plateau/Forest in Lindi

: Sudi Bay is a home to world class navigation and administration history. At the site, stands a landmark architectural facility, a Light House that was built in 1886 by the Germans to facilitate a 24-hour-sea Snavigation on and off the east African Swahili coast. Interact with groups of female entrepreneurs as they conduct their trawler Ä shing activities at Sudi, an early trade or activity forbidden to be undertaken by a coastal Swahili woman! Then : The U-shaped ruins of the Aga Khan building down there is Songea a bustling metropolitan town and Songea the the old town Mikindani couldn’t escape the eye of any chief, though poorly armed, stood in German door way during cameraman. The structure blends Asian and Arabic the bloody Maji Maji war. architectural cultures. The ground Å oor of the 1900s Ubuilding, is apparently used as Madrassa. : Tendaguru. Yes the The dinosaurian material Take a spot check at an all round shaped Underground lounge, one cruise liner can take was later shipped to Europe, kilometre off the Mikindani old town. The weekend resort was once you to Tendaguru where it was assembled into a used alternatively by the Germans and British for drinking, feasting and Tbeds, home to the number of creatures/skeletons, merrymaking. fossilised tallest and heaviest thereafter the creatures/ dinosaur of the GiraÄ titans skeletons, were shared among Although the mountain walls have curved, virtually blocking the entrance brancai species uncovered the natural history museums of to the Underground lounge, however it makes an interesting exposure there between 1907and 1912. Berlin and London, respectively. of the lifestyle by the colonial administrators in the Southern Zone.

57 Tanzania Tourist Board Cultural Tourism HARDVENTURE TOURISM | Least known tourist attractions

: Viewpoint at Bismarck hills. This is a high ground, 300 metres off the rear of the Old Boma, used by the Germans in detecting any enemy approaching onshore off the Mikindani Bay and Old Boma.V The site is also important for dhowviews as they majestically stay aÅ oat at sea.

On top of the hills there is a baobab tree, under which legends suggest huge treasures might have been buried there by Å eeing Germans during the WW1. A number of attempts by area residents to reach to the treasures trove and uncover it have been unsuccessful! View point at Mmbuji Rock in Ruvuma Similar viewpoints could be exciting while atop the 800m peak of the iconic Matogoro Mountains in Songea despite high presence of pines and : Water pump two-room hut was built in 1900s and eucalyptus forests. house. The its coral rock-structure remains Ä rmly structure rests intact. Formerly, the pump house We had also some enjoyable fresh air and landscape forlorn on the supplied water to Mikindani sisal viewing from the beautiful Wino Mountains in eastern ridge of plantations, 20 Km off the old town, Songea, off the Songea-Iringa road and Mmbuji WMchuchu hills. Its single occupant, then vibrant commercial activity on the Rock off Mbinga and Mbamba Bay road. The rock a corona make-machine has been east African coast and some parts of has much folklore sorrounding it such as legends removed for other uses elsewhere. The the hinterland in the Tanganyika. and tales of super natural occurances.

: The X (cross) denotes Njia Nne in Kiswahili or Four ways at Nangurukuru, an : Zanzibar upcoming resort site on the reconnects Dar–Lindi highway. The site superbly with isX on the junction of the roads that lead old cities in to Kilwa Island on the east, Liwale on the Southern the southwest, Lindi and Mtwara, on the ZZone such as Kilwa, Lindi, south and Dar es Salaam on the North. and Mikindani as they Njia Nne, is busy but ideal for travellers share cultural insights and needs and fresh supplies, such as quick inÅ uences of the Swahili fresh meal, snacks, bites, and of course, people. bathe and wash rooms. Therefore, at the end of an exciting alphabetical cultural : Youths. Brigades of young cruise in the Southern Zone, persons make exciting line- just connect to Zanzibar ups over some sections and for further sun bathing and bus drop points along the holidaying and encounter Lindi Mtwara highway. with yet a collection of ruins. Y A merry go round aboard They could be vending everything including the Southern Zone cultural freshly cooked maize, sea salt stones tourism cruise-liner is calling. harvested from the ensuing salt farms, live Welcome aboard! chicken, eggs and roast chicken meat, tubers and pots of honey they might have freshly gathered from the sprawling tropical One of the steet allays in Stone Town Zanzibar, reconnects it with the bushes and hardwoods to eke out a living. narrow streets of the Old Mikindani, in the Southern Zone

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The International Tourism and Business Magazine JULY-SEPT 2011 47 47 Focus on Southern Zone HARDVENTURE TOURISM | Least known tourist attractions

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