Federation of Mountain Clubs of BC CLOUDBURST Spring/ Summer 2020

FIND INSIDE: Singing Pass Trail Project

Crossing Garibaldi Lake Wearing Sneakers

Good Reads: Popular Day Hike Book Series

INSIDE THIS EDITION: Southwest BC Recreation & Conservation and Trails Reports | Auditing & Funding Trails in BC Parks | Improved Summer Access at Singing Pass trail Good Reads | The Magic of Storytelling | How To Safety Install Trail Markers

Cloudburst - Fall/Winter 2019 1 INSIDE Club ramblings

4 President’s Message 22 The Magic of Storytelling 23 Club members! Share your tips, Trails successes, and stories 23 Help support the Member Grant CLOUDBURST 5 How to Safely Install Trail Markers Program 6 Trail News: Southwest BC Trails 23 Photo highlights from Mt. Published by: and Access Committee Report Hays in Prince Rupert 13 Auditing & Funding Trails at BC Parks The Federation of Mountain Good Reads Clubs of British Columbia Recreation and Conservation 24 Popular Day Hikes Book Series PO Box 19673 8 Southwest BC Recreation and (2019) Vancouver, BC, V5T 4E7 Conservation Report 25 Surveying the 120th Meridian 8 mountainclubs.org Improved summer access at Singing and the Great Divide: The (604) 873-6096 Pass will be music to hikers’ ears Alberta-BC Survey, 1918-1924 [email protected] 28 The Last Blue Mountain: The Mountain Trips Great Karakoram Climbing Tragedy mountainclubs 30 Mountain Man: The Life mountainclubs 14 Crossing Garibaldi Lake Wearing of a Guide Outfitter Sneakers Executive 18 ‘A Story Which Never Rings Welcome to the FMCBC President: Dave Wharton Vice President: Ken Orr Hollow’ Secretary: Jay MacArthur 20 An Insider Look: The Tragic Climb 31 Burnaby Outdoor Club Treasurer: Mark Latham of Denali 32 Trails Society of BC

Board of Directors Dave King, Andrew Drouin, Natalie Bojarsky, Jan Osborne, Judy Carlson Federation of Mountain Clubs Staff Barry Janyk, Executive Director of British Columbia Chandra Matlock, Communications & Admin Working on your behalf Manager

Articles and Advertising The Federation of Mountain Clubs of British Columbia (FMCBC) is a Visit mountainclubs.org/publications for province-wide umbrella organization dedicated to protecting and maintaining access to details on article submissions and advertising BC’s backcountry. opportunities. Since 1972, we have represented the interests of outdoor clubs from every corner of the Submission Deadlines: province and have provided a united voice on issues related to October 1 & April 1 non-motorized backcountry recreation. Send articles/advertising inquiries to: [email protected] Our membership is comprised of a diverse group of thousands of non-motorized Cover Photo backcountry recreationists including hikers, rock climbers, mountaineers, Photo by Maria Christina S. See page 33 for mountain bikers, trail runners, kayakers, backcountry skiers, and snowshoers. details. As an organization, we believe the enjoyment of these pursuits in an unspoiled environment FMCBC is a member of the Outdoor is a vital component of the quality of life for British Columbians, and by acting under the Recreation Council of BC, Canadian policy of “talk, understand and persuade” we advocate for these interests. Avalanche Association, Trails Society of BC, and Leave No Trace Canada.

2 Federation of Mountain Clubs of BC CloudburstCloudburst - Fall/Winter 2019Spring/ Summer 2020 3 President’s Message Dave Wharton Valley Outdoor Association and Board President, FMCBC For those parks or trails that have not It is already June (and 100+ days numerous mental and physical health reopened yet, or have experienced since the start of the Coronavirus). I benefits. access restrictions, I personally have been waiting as late as reasonably believe that this action may be President’s Message Continued possible to write this message, due to If you are planning to hike at a local counterproductive. We increasingly the ongoing and rapidly changing con- or nearby trail, please note these need to engage in outdoor activity, yet I must stress that if these closures ditions brought about by the important recommendations: on a smaller footprint of land - poten- remain in effect or should further Coronavirus (COVID-19) pandemic. • It is essential that we all maintain tially making it more difficult to main- restrictions arise that restrict access to a physical distance of at least 2 metres tain a safe distance, and some people trails or other outdoor recreation op- I am fortunate - my income has not (approx. the length of two hiking poles) may be tempted to travel further from portunities, we must comply with these been impacted, I am in good health, and from others. home to find uncrowded spaces. restrictions. Neither I, FMCBC I can follow all Public Health Authority • We should stay connected to those employees, or your Board of Directors guidelines without undue hardship. I important to us (at least virtually if it As the FMCBC representative on in any way condones not following know that many of you are likely not as is not possible in person) and pursue the Board of the Outdoor Recreation provincial guidelines. Nonetheless, I An example aluminum roofing nail alongside a trail marker (Photo: A. Wallace) fortunate in your present circumstances. outdoor recreation as close to home as Council [ORC], at the April ORC believe it is appropriate to advocate on There has been reduced income, lost possible. Board meeting, I introduced a your behalf where it is warranted. employment, children not able to attend • If you are planning a hike with oth- motion to write a letter to the school, and perhaps you, your family, or ers, this is not the time for car-pooling respective Ministers asking them to Installing Trail Markers On behalf of all FMCBC members, I friends may have suffered with or lost or sharing food or drink containers. reconsider their decisions and review Alex Wallace extend a very big thank you and vote someone due to COVID-19. Whatever • Nor is it time for those personal each park closure or regional closures SW Trails Committee Co-Chair, FMCBC of confidence to all levels of govern- impacts this pandemic is having on “first ascents,” we must all stay within independently, find alternatives to ment and provincial and national health you and your families - my thoughts our personal comfort zones, so we do reduce the pressures of high usage authorities for their leadership and hard are with you - and I truly hope you’ll not take undue risk that may require the areas, and find ways for residents work, including Dr. Bonnie Henry, the Your trail markers are in! But what a sawblade or harm others. BC Parks be able to return to a life free from the services of first responders. to enjoy local parks and trails in a Provincial Health Officer and Dr. There- is the best way to safely install trail has directed volunteers not to install current uncertainties, as soon as it is safe way. This motion passed, with a sa Tam, the Chief Public Health Officer markers that will not pose risks to markers using screws. safe to do so. Recently, some of our favourite B.C. strong majority in favour, and a letter for Canada. I would also like to recog- others? parks have reopened, although not all has been sent. Additionally, interviews nize the dedication and commitment 2. Do not use coated deck screws or Presently, we are advised to enjoy parks or trails are open yet. Rec. Sites with media have been conducted and of health care providers, grocery store Sawmill workers or a park ranger may stainless-steel screws – both can be outdoor recreation and stay physically and Trails BC has also closed or a report on alternative strategies have employees, transportation workers, and need to cut down the tree at some point, drawn into the tree as the tree grows active. As a retired Mental Health pro- restricted access to many of its been released by RC Strategies. all those workers who provide essential especially if it becomes hazardous. and the layer of cambium just below the fessional, I know that doing so provides managed trails and recreation sites. Continued on next page. services. It’s true that rangers will use an axe to bark constantly expands. Trail markers remove a ring of bark to double-check will fold or push off – and, over a peri- And finally, thank you to Stacey Santos for old, rusty and hidden nails where od of years, the nails or screws inexora- for her dedication and hard work on be- they are going to cut the tree. And that bly disappear into the tree bark. half of the FMCBC. Stacey worked her sawmill workers have metal detectors [My uncle, a sawmiller in Scotland, last day with the FMCBC at the end of to save saws from damage, but it’s still used to curse when he sawed into old April and resigned from the FMCBC to recommended to have safe practices in musket balls in oak or beech trees; de- accept other work opportunities. I know place. spite these being lead, they would dull I am not the only one who will miss her his saw, which would require sharpen- expertise and dedication. We’ve put some tips and best ing]. practices together based on advice from Please join me in welcoming Chandra the Ministry of Forestry and B.C. Parks 3. Carry a couple extra items in your Matlock as Stacey’s replacement in on how volunteers can properly and backpack to avoid crumpling up or the Communications & Administration safely install your new trail markers: bending aluminum roofing nails when Manager role. I have every confidence installing markers into higher elevation Chandra will do just as well in her new 1. Use aluminum roofing nails or thin trees that have hard, dense wood. position. drywall nails. They are made of soft FMCBC President, Dave Wharton, near a sign at Cliff Falls that showcases the approximate distance to exercise physical distancing. metal or are thin enough to not damage Continued on page 6.

4 Federation of Mountain Clubs of BC Cloudburst - Fall/Winter Spring/ 2019 Summer 2020 5 ‘Installing Trail Markers’ continued from page 5 TRAIL NEWS Southwest BC Trails and Access Committee Report Bring these items in your backpack to help avoid crumpling or bending Alex Wallace nails when installing trail markers: Committee Co-Chair, FMCBC o Take along a couple of deck screws and a Robertson screwdriver (or ratchet screwdriver) and drive the deck screw in at a downward angle, and then re- move it. Next, carefully tap the roofing nail down into the handy hole that you created to secure the trail marker firmly. o The downward angle allows the trail marker to slide down against the tree when ice and snow pull on it, rather than the marker folding outward. Usually, a gap of about 5mm is left between the head of the nail and marker The FMCBC works to ensure British Columbia’s hiking and climbing access trails are Snowshoers! You can now access the backcountry at Mount Seymour in the winter via Parking Lot 5A. The trail is temporarily flagged to allow for incremental tree growth recognized, protected and maintained. FMCBC Committees play an integral role in with poles (pictured). Get directions on page 6. Special thanks to the FMCBC SWBC Trails and Access Committee. (Photo: Alex Wallace) in the next five to ten years. Most trail supporting trails across the province. Join a Committee at mountainclubs.org/volunteer makers are designed to hold up and be visible for a decade or more. Members of the Southwest BC Trails A new route to the backcountry at Public Consultations with BC Parks height of roughly 300 metres (similar for providing certainty to the operator. and Access Committee and other Mount Seymour Extensive developments underway at height as Paris’ Eiffel Tower, except vis- o Roles and responsibilities for o Although this may mean extra FMCBC members have worked on a Cypress Provincial Park itors are dangling from a harness) - over capacity and visitor management must weight in your backpack, at least the range of issues over the past several Just before the Provincial parks closed the east part of the Yew Lake wetland be clearly set out. aluminum roofing nails are almost months. in March, ironically, a new backcountry Over the past 20 years, Cypress trails. o The policy does not adequately weightless compared to a bag of steel trail for snowshoers opened at Mount Provincial Park has seen continuous and - Two lift-assisted mountain bike areas address the maintenance of traditional common nails. Here are some highlights of our work Seymour provincial park, thanks to ongoing construction. In recent years, and low-impact use of parks, but instead to improve and protect trails and the FMCBC Southwest BC Trails and developments in and around Cypress o Winter activities concentrates on commercial use and See an example aluminum roofing nail increase access to non-motorized recre- Access Committee. So, as you unpack Provincial Park has been more - Two Austrian Coasters installed on development of parks. alongside a trail marker on page 5. ation in southwest BC. your snowshoes this winter, try this new extensive and includes: ski runs (similar to bobsleds running on o For existing ski resort plans, the As shown below, trail markers can also backcountry winter trail. • New 12-storey (now rezoned to temporary rails) on Black and Strachan policy provides considerable changes to be useful as directional signage. 16-storey) towers on KM 4 of the Cy- - with restaurants and snack bars at public use and park access and possible How to get there: press Bowl Road. several viewpoints. long-term impacts on natural and cultur- 1. Park at Parking Lot 5A designated • Several other smaller projects creat- al aspects of parks. for snowshoers in Mount Seymour. ing additional traffic on an already busy Whether this development proposal will (the west-side shoulder of the road provincial park access road. come to fruition in the current economic However, our efforts have fallen on that’s restricted to winter access only). • To prepare for future developments, climate is unknown. deaf ears and all enquiries have been 2. The trail leads north from the park- the areas along the road are still being redirected to the Ski Resort Policy, ing lot through natural corridors in the blasted. The FMCBC has enquired about a CRA which you can review on the B.C. Parks forest and heads to the Dog Mountain • A proposal for a four-season Cypress Master Plan Amendment process for website: http://bcparks.ca/permits/con- trail. Mountain Resort in the Controlled Cypress provincial park and submitted a sultation/ski-resort-policy.html Recreation Area ski area providing: letter to BC Parks when they were draft- The trail has been flagged and marked ing the 2014 Ski Resort Policy. B.C. Parks indicates this policy was with poles, but no signage has been o Summer activities undertaken to provide guidance on installed yet (pictured on page 7). - World’s Longest Peak to Peak double Some highlighted points from our letter aspects of ski resort and permit man- Did you know trail markers can be transformed into a directional arrow with your zipline, from Mount Strachan across to BC Parks include: agement not addressed through other next-door neighbour’s sheet metal snips? (Photo: Alex Wallace) Continued on next page. Cypress Bowl to Black Mountain, at a o A 60-year lease is excessively long policies or legislation.

6 Federation of Mountain Clubs of BC Cloudburst - Fall/Winter Spring/ 2019 Summer 2020 7 Proposed Singing Pass Trail RECREATION & CONSERVATION Continued from page 8. Southwest BC Recreation and Conservation Committee Report

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ek AR Whistler-Blackcomb e P Monika Bittel Fl e Cr ut 2 Proposed Singing Pass Trail Access 4 3 0 4 Committee Co-Chair, FMCBC Trails 2 GARIBALDI EC Singing Pass Trail R PARK Fitzsimmons Creek to Singing Pass Trail (966m) Sliding Centre to Fitzsimmons Creek Within Sliding Centre (1019m) Sliding Centre to IPP Intake (2567m) ss Members of the Southwest BC pre 6 Ex Ski Lifts ny mo Har Improved summer access at Singing Pass n IPP Penstock/Intake (Files: 2410347 & 2410346) Recreation and Conservation ve Ha rmony Creek ea H ss re

7th p Sliding Centre (Lease on File: 2408831) k

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F the past several months. Project Coordinator, FMCBC Board of Director, and ACC-Vancouver Director All Survey Parcels Private Land 1:15,000 Date: 2020/01/30 Park Here are some highlights of our work Hiking near Singing Pass provides If you’re looking for a shorter hike, a User Name: csteinke to advocate for, protect, and increase magnificent views of the Fitzsimmons potential shuttle service is being access to non-motorized recreation in and Spearhead Mountain ranges and assessed that would take hikers to the

southwest BC. Cheakamus Glacier, especially in sum- proposed new bridge and cut about an

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mertime when the slopes of the Pass are hour off your trip. a m s ndol s o 8 e k G r ea 8 k 2 P . p a 5 Pe Ex Summer Access and Parking at sprinkled with wild flowers. However, 6 9 6 ld a r Singing Pass Trail in Garibaldi this popular trail near Whistler is diffi- Special thanks to Peter Taylor (ACC-Van- e Em Provincial Park cult to access in summer since the old couver) for designing the new footbridge! The Alpine Club of Canada (Vancouver logging access road has been slumping and Whistler sections) and the FMCBC since the 90s. The project is currently awaiting BC Recreation & Conservation approval and agreements with our part-

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Committee continue work to resolve The Alpine Club of Canada ners are in the works. Once approved, we n 1 e

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e p 0 t r 3 e r 4 ongoing summer access and parking (Vancouver and Whistler sections) and hope that construction can start in 2020, s e s 2 s

problems at Singing Pass. the FMCBC Southwest BC but we may need to delay the project until 1

Recreation and Conservation 2021 due to the COVID-19 pandemic. s s e r p x E Special thanks to Jay MacArthur Committee are working to resolve o z n a b r (ACC-Vancouver) and Bryce Leigh ongoing access and parking problems Although the group has made progress in a G

a l k o (ACC-Whistler) for spearheading at Singing Pass trail near Whistler. The improving summer access, they will also e d e r n o C G s

n e this work! See the sidebar where Jay plan to improve access involves develop- have further discussions to review options o g a m l l

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ing a new route on the north-side of Fitz- for winter overnight parking with i provides a more detailed update on how r

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simmons Creek to rejoin the old Singing Whistler/Blackcomb and the Resort c we’re aiming to improve summer access i

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m 1 Ex y 0 l 1 Pass trail on the south-side of the Creek. Municipality of Whistler. O at the Singing Pass trail near Whistler. c 8 e . l 6 e 1 r a m to e r t r E e x s p r Over the past several months, the team Support improved summer e B Here’s the route for the proposed trail: s l s a c k c o has sought approval from: First Na- 1. Park at Lot 8 near the Whistler access at the Singing Pass m b DL 8103 G o n Sliding Center, Help fundraise for or provide a tax- d tions, Whistler/Blackcomb (use of Lot o la 8 for parking), Whistler Sliding Center 2. Take the marked trail just south of deductible donation to this project. The s s Lot 8 e r p (use of access road), Innergex (use of the Sliding Centre and head towards the estimated cost is between $50,000 to x E

s n Ex o c a m the right of way at the IPP) and Recre- Innergex IPP on Fitzsimmons Creek, $70,000. The FMCBC is currently seek- lib u m r G i on s d Bk I tz ola i ation Sites and Trails BC (section 57 3. Cross a new 24-metre footbridge ing project funders as we make progress F Bk F Pl 20511 DL 4213 4. Hike another 1 km to the old on improving Singing Pass access with Bk approval). Options for winter overnight M

a E g DL 3903 i c parking needs further discussion with Singing Pass parking lot. our partners. C h a i Bk Whistler/Blackcomb and the Resort r B Pl 21892 Pl 21892 DL 3865 DL 4750 Municipality of Whistler. See the trail map on page 9. Email [email protected] to 0 0.25 0.5 0.75 1 Kilometers Bk H DL 3020 Continued on page 10. indicate how you can help. Bk B Bk C Document Path: W:\tsa\kam\Ski Area Resorts\Blackcomb - WB\Spatial Data Management\MXDs\WB Singing Pass Trail Access 2020 01 28.mxd

8 Federation of Mountain Clubs of BC Cloudburst - Fall/Winter Spring/ 2019 Summer 2020 9 Protecting the Upper Skagit Long-Term Planning for River Watershed Sea-to-Sky Corridor We’ve been advocating with other To learn about the strategic planning partners to protect the Upper Skagit being undertaken in the Sea-to-Sky River Watershed (aka “the Donut Corridor, in December 2019, several Hole”), an unprotected area, sand- members from the Recreation & Con- wiched between Manning and Skagit servation Committee met with Susan Provincial Parks. Dain-Owens, a Land and Resource Specialist for the Sea-to-Sky Natural Ken Farquharson and Tom Perry have Resource District at the Ministry of For- advocated for the end of commercial ests, Lands, Natural Resource Opera- logging in the Watershed and acquiring tions and Rural Development (Ministry Giant Copper mining claims so that the of FLNRO). Donut Hole could be returned to our provincial park system. Their efforts The group reviewed visitor statistics for are supported by CPAWS, the ORC, the the Corridor, which has risen consid- Western Wilderness Committee, Nature erably over the past several years [see BC, BC Sierra Club, BC Wildlife, and sidebar]. Afterwards, Dain-Owens gave the FMCBC. an overview of the US Interagency Vis- BC Parks displays considerable increases in visitors at Sea-to-Sky parks from itor Use Management Framework, one 2010-2018. (Source: BC Parks) In November 2019, Farquharson, Perry, Photo submitted to the #FundBCParks campaign. of the pilot planning tools being used by and these partners met with Minister the Ministry of FLNRO and BC Parks. Heyman. Shortly after the meeting, valuable for biodiversity, and provid- The Old-growth Strategic Review Panel The Framework will be tested at the we learnt we could expect some “good ing recreational, environmental, and is scheduled to report to government in Shannon Basin, Tenquille-Owl Lakes, Although Minister Heyman remained Provincial Park, with First Nations’ news.” aesthetic values. spring 2020 with recommendations that Joffre Lakes, and Key Hole and Meagre non-committal because of the govern- consultations being the first step. are expected to inform a new approach Hot Springs. ment’s focus on health, education, and While in Victoria, we also met with On December 4, 2019, the Province To conserve the remaining, fragmented to old-growth management in BC. social programs, it was evident that our Liberal MLA, Jordan Sturdy, to discuss announced there would be no more areas of old-growth, we recommended: If successful, the Framework will guide presentation, which included photos Sea-to-Sky issues, including access to logging in the Donut Hole. However, Submissions on Forest future recreation authorizations in the of deteriorated trails and infrastructure the Singing Pass, as well as ongoing our efforts to find a solution with | 1. Legislated protection of old-growth, Stewardship Plans Corridor, including motorized/non-mo- in various provincial parks - including issues at BC Parks and RSTBC. respect to mineral claims would contin- with an immediate moratorium on the torized zones and recreation infrastruc- South Chilcotin, Granby, Squamish, ue. Should the Donut Hole be saved, it harvesting of endangered old-growth. In November and December 2019, the ture, such as outhouses and campsites. Cypress, Mt. Seymour, Strathcona, Mr. Sturdy was more engaged and sup- is anticipated that the area will become Committee sent written submissions on Although we encourage long-term plan- Manning and Kokanee - made an portive on these issues than 18 months some form of protected area, involving 2. Preservation of sufficient areas to Forest Stewardship Plans from Hillcore ning being undertaken in the Corridor, impression. The Minister asked his staff ago. the First Nations who have some con- protect the diverse types of old-growth Lakeside Pacific Forest Products Ltd. the Rubble Creek access road closure how these areas could be prioritized nection with the area. ecosystems and the wildlife dependent (Big Silver, Chehalis, East Harrison, demonstrates we have a long way to go. for maintenance. Unfortunately, the We also met with MLA, Peter Milobar, on them, such as the marbled murrelet, Tretheway and West Harrison landscape 20 minutes allocated for our meeting the Liberal Critic for the Environment, Conserving Old Growth spotted owl, and mountain caribou. units) and Probyn Log Ltd. (Ander- Funding for BC Parks was not enough to delve into how BC and, from our meetings, it was not through Public Consultations son, Big Silver, Chehalis, Chilliwack, Parks prioritizes maintenance with such evident how the Liberals would change These areas are determined by studies Coquihalla, East Harrison, Fraser Valley The FMCBC continues to advocate for limited resources. See the photo on page their approach to BC Parks funding In January 2020, the FMCBC made lead by independent scientists who are South, Hatzic, Manning, Silverhope, increased funding for BC Parks. In 12 of deteriorating infrastructure at BC should they be elected. written submissions to the Old-growth not affiliated with industry or Spuzzamn, Stave, Trethewaty, West November 2019, representatives from provincial parks. Strategic Review Panel, consisting of government. Harrison, Yale landscape units). While the FMCBC, Outdoor Recreation Continued on page 11. Garry Merkel, a professional forester both plans recognized trails with section Council of BC [ORC], and the BC However, in the South Coast, BC Parks and member of the Tahltan Nation, and 3. A transition away from industrial 57 approval (i.e. the HBC Brigade Parks Elders Council met with Minister advised that ongoing planning process- Al Gorley, a professional forester and harvest of our remaining old-growth to Trail, Mt. Grainger Trail, Baby Munday, Heyman, Deputy Minister Zacharias, es are taking place for Pinecone Burke former chair of the Forest Practices community-based forestry and selective Elk-Thurston, Ford Mountain, Ling and Assistant Deputy Minister Standen Provincial Park and the planning pro- Board. The FMCBC’s submissions logging practices, focusing on second Lake, Mt. Cheam, Mt. McGuire, Mt. regarding the state of our provincial cess has started for Mt. Seymour highlighted the importance of BC’s growth, forest rehabilitation, and Rexford, Pierce Lake, Slesse Memorial, parks. “old-growth,” which was particularly reducing fire risks. Slesse Mountain, Vedder Mountain,

10 Federation of Mountain Clubs of BC Cloudburst - Fall/Winter Spring/ 2019 Summer 2020 11 ‘Recreation & Conservation’ Winter access and parking Auditing & Funding Trails at BC Parks update cont. from page 11 at Rubble Creek in Garibaldi Jay MacArthur Provincial Park Director, FMCBC and Director, Alpine Club of Canada-Vancouver Williams Peak, and Williamson Lake), there are many other hiking trails that In February 2020, the Varsity Outdoors On March 7, about 50 volunteers provide recreation values within the Club (VOC) encountered new “no park- shoveled 20-24 parking spots and a For the past five years, the Federation of landscape units. ing” signs at the Rubble Creek access turn-around area just past a road that Mountain Clubs of BC (FMCBC) and road, where people normally park in branches off to the Sea-to-Sky Retreat. other groups have been lobbying the Therefore, we sought strategies for winter to access Garibaldi Lake. Province of B.C. to increase funding for these trails which would maintain BC Parks’ policy of not plowing access provincial parks. BC Parks has unique recreational experiences, The loss of this access road and parking roads to provincial parks and parking chronically underfunded parks and trails minimize damage and impacts on trails, leaves only two winter access points for lots needs to be revisited, particularly in for over 20 years - and the trails we love avoid access roads being built across Garibaldi Provincial Park, the Sea-to-Sky Corridor. need some TLC. trails, and prevent motorized use on the namely, Diamond Head and Singing trails Pass, both of which are at capacity. The ever-growing populations in the Four years ago, the Province announced . It also makes it virtually impossible lower Mainland and Sea-to-Sky com- plans to increase the number of camp- The submissions also identified a num- to access Garibaldi Lake, the VOC’s munities has shown an increased inter- sites after input from many user groups ber of logging roads, which we would Burton Hut, the traditional and popular est in snowshoeing, winter camping, and the public. We are seeking to get like to see maintained in some form Garibaldi Neve Traverse, and surround- and ski touring, and any loss of access action again by focusing on trails and (rather than deactivated) to preserve ac- ing terrain, including Mt. Price, Guard to non-motorized, backcountry recre- showing the need to increase funding. cess to prime hiking and climbing areas. Mountain, Deception Peak, The Sphinx, ation opportunities in the Corridor will The Bookworms, Mt. Carr, and Castle simply compound over-capacity issues Trail audits and In response, the proponents advised that Towers. in other backcountry areas. condition reports if forest development activities would be proposed in close proximity to the After BC Parks advised they have no Further, we simply cannot afford to When provincial parks open this trails identified, the FMCBC would re- money to plow Rubble Creek, the VOC lose access to Garibaldi Provincial Park summer, we aim to perform trail audits Photo submitted to #FundBCParks campaign. Numerous photos were sent to illus- ceive a future site-specific Information spearheaded efforts to find a solution. because it is the one predictable place on many popular trails at BC provincial trate the increased need for funding to BC parks. Sharing Referral to gather additional While there were several offers to plow where the public will not encounter parks and Recreation Sites and Trails comments and identify possible the road, the compact, accumulated snowmobiles or helicopters (exclud- BC. management strategies. snow made plowing impossible for this ing the Spearhead). The FMCBC will BC Parks and elected officials. These Even if you do not have time to winter season. Undeterred, the VOC continue to work with VOC and others Here’s what we are looking to find audits and the consolidated report will complete an official trail audit, you can organized a Rubble Creek Trailhead to find a long-term solution to winter through these trail audits: assist FMCBC in advocating for i still assist by taking photos of trail con- dig-out party. parking at Rubble Creek. ncreased funding for BC Parks. ditions and reporting what you 1. Document the state of each trail encounter. including existing trail infrastructure, In turn, BC Parks will be able to such as bridges and boardwalks. In- prioritize trail work, identify complex After completing the training, submit clude washed-out or blocked drainage work to be completed by student work your trail audit here at pipes and locations that need drainage groups, and define less onerous work mountainclubs.org/trails-audit-survey/. or boardwalks. that can be undertaken by volunteers. Note: we are not proposing that clubs Make sure to send the trail location 2. Detail places where trail braiding take on trail work. and a description of noted issues when and erosion is occurring. For example, submitting photos. many trails near Vancouver have eroded Take a hike! Trek new or down to tree roots, making hiking favourite trails and monitor Questions? Send them to hazardous. trail conditions [email protected]

3. Take photos to support and We require volunteers from across BC showcase trail conditions. to learn how to use perform and doc- ument trail audits based on BC Parks Based on these trail audits, a detailed standards. Sign-up to be notified about 50 volunteers at a dig-out party shoveled 20-24 parking spots and a turn-around area at Rubble Creek. (Photo: M Bittel) report will be created and presented to an upcoming webinar/ workshop.

Cloudburst12 Spring/ Summer 2020 Federation of Mountain Clubs of BC Cloudburst - Fall/Winter Spring/ 2019 Summer 2020 13 climbed with Culbert and Woodworth the possibility of uncrossable cracks in a problem-causing crack emerged. With in the sixties. His resume includes early the ice - somewhere in the middle of the a small diversion and a small step, we and first ascents on the Chief (the clas- lake. were quickly passed it. And as it turned sic Caramba Crags amongst them!) – as out, it was the only crack in our trip. MOUNTAIN TRIPS well as an ascent of Raleigh and peaks The first ten metres were quite thick in the Howson Range. and solid, an indicator we probably One last challenge wouldn’t have a problem on the far side. The final concern was getting back on An early departure from Vancouver had The surface of the lake was virtually land. The open water at the mouth of us starting up the trail at seven in the skateable. In-step crampons would have Sphinx Creek forced us slightly north- morning. The lack of snow had saved been handy, but as old timers we didn’t ward from the direct line to the Sphinx us walking up the road and allowed fast have any. Fortunately, the freezing and Hut. But barely. An hour after leaving progress up to the junction. thawing of the surface had created a our coffee stop, we were having a very crunchy layer and allowed us to walk early lunch at the Hut. It was just after nine when we arrived with relative ease most of the time. at Battleship Islands and a coffee stop. And we had dry feet. The last time I Now, there were three things we had to As we made our way to the centre of the crossed the lake, in the nineties, heavy worry about. The first was getting onto lake and beyond, no ‘trip-ending’ cracks overnight rain meant that the tips of my the lake from the shore. The second get- appeared. In fact, we were more than skis were underwater most of the way ting off the ice on the other side. Lastly, three-quarters of the way across before back to Battleship Islands.

Arnold Shives with Mount Price, a volcano, in the background. (Photo credit: All photos courtesy of Paul Adam) Crossing Garibaldi Lake Wearing Sneakers An Adventure by Paul Adam the east side involves going around the Then, while cruising climbing web- lake. Unfortunately, the lack of a shore- sites, I came across a trip route online, line trail means a substantial detour describing an ascent of the Sphinx. The - with a couple of substantial ups and report said there was no snow until the As I’ve aged, my hobbies have become downs – making the trip into a long day, junction and the lake was snow-free. stranger and stranger. I have to admit even for the young and fit. In other words, summer-like travel to that I have an obsession with getting the lake. The problem of skiing the pictures and samples of all minor volca- Travelling along this route in the winter trail had been eliminated as there was nic vents in southwestern BC. I collect is more straight-forward; you could no snow. And the summer problem of these for universities and the Geological ski across the lake. The journey up the crossing the lake had been solved as it Survey of Canada. As a side benefit, it Black Tusk trail is difficult. It is not was frozen and ”dry.” forces me to explore the backcountry, pleasant to ascend because it is usu- away from standard hiking areas. ally hard-packed with snow on a very Summer footware on the winter route. uneven surface created by travelling Perfect! walkers, snowshoers, and skiers. The Planning another adventure descent is even worse, especially for With those problems solved, there was If you’re pondering a visit the Sphinx skiers, as the trail’s narrowness makes one more issue that had to be addressed Moraine volcanics in the summertime, speed control non-existent. on how long I would encounter these you’ll be presented with an interesting conditions. The forecast indicated snow challenge. The Sphinx Moraine volca- I had given up hope for a visit in the on Thursday. nics are located on the eastern side of summer. I have not put on my skis in a Garibaldi Lake. Of course, in warmer decade and I was not prepared to put in On Sunday, I called Arnold Shives and months, getting from the west side to two hard days to reach the volcanics. I had a partner for Tuesday. Arnold had

14 Federation of Mountain Clubs of BC Cloudburst - Fall/Winter Spring/ 2019 Summer 2020 15 I arrived at the Hut an hour and half ‘Crossing Garibaldi Lake later. After another bite to eat, we Wearing Sneakers’ started to head home. The return trip Continued: Some olcanic terms wasn’t all that much faster; it was after explained from the story, three when we arrived at the car.

On the journey home, we glowed in ec- Lava mounds stasy. A sunny day with spring tempera- Volcanoes that erupt under ice can take tures, good views and company and, on a number of differing shapes. When best of all, a lack of snow, providing the lava is confined by ice, it can form ideal conditions for walking on water. dome like shapes. These “domes’ are A perfect trip! often built up of layers of “pillows” or Photo credit: All photos courtesy of Paul Adam “tubes.” Often alot of breccia (broken We smiled even more on Thursday pieces of lava) is formed as the lava when we experienced a good dump of cools against the ice. These pillows and snow. tubes have characteristic radial patterns of jointing. Send us your backcountry Columnar jointing are features mountain trip stories! formed by cooling lava. The lava shrinks and forms cracks We’d love to include your story in perpendicular to the cooling surface. an upcoming Spring/ Summer or Columnar jointing is commonly seen Fall/ Winter Cloudburst edition. in basaltic lava flows, but can form in most kinds of lava. We’re seeking hiking, mountain biking, kayaking, canoeing, snow- Radial jointing occurs when the lava is shoeing, skiing, and climbing cooled on all the sides close to the same adventures. time. This occurs when the lava is surrounded by water or ice. Or even Send your stories to cloudburst@ when the lava forces itself between mountainclubs.org by October breccia layers that are cold, but not yet 15 or April 15 each year. Be sure compacted. The small-scaled to include photos and photo captions formations are called pillows because from your adventure! of their shape. In cross-section, the radial jointing can be seen. Story Continued I disappeared. The snow was frozen See page 14 to start reading: enough that I only put a foot through Help support the Large diameter radial jointing features, the ice crust ocassionally. Federation’s advocacy such as the example on Sphinx ‘Crossing Garibaldi Lake to protect backcountry Moraine, are formed as the lava cooled Wearing Sneakers’ I made numerous stops to capture areas and non-motorized in a tube of ice or already cooled photos and whack rocks. After recreation in BC pillows in the ice (It looks like an onion Exploring volcanic vents forty-five minutes, I sat atop the that has been sliced in half!). The joints volcano. I headed off eastward - with that are perpendicular to the columnar We need your help! Donate and After recovering from our three and more rocks and one less GPS. joints are also formed by rapid cooling. support our advocacy efforts to half hour journey, I took my gear and protect outdoor recreation. Visit went to explore the geology of the area. Corkscrewing clockwise, I headed for Breccias are small angular fragments of mountainclubs.org/donate to That gave Arnold, my hiking partner the Hut. The cliff that faced south was rocks that are cemented together by submit your tax-deductible donation. and the professional artist, a chance a phenomenon of beauty, volcanically volcanic sand to form larger rocks. to pull out his drawing kit and sketch speaking. [See next page for detailed They are the igneous version of a Thanks for your support! away. trip photos]. conglomerate rock.

16 Federation of Mountain Clubs of BC Cloudburst - Fall/Winter Spring/ 2019 Summer 2020 17 honed and expanded, and new technol- The most common tree rings studied are Indonesia, the global climate cooled ogies and techniques are able to extract bristlecone pine, fir and spruce. considerably for several years A Story Which Never Rings Hollow a wider range of information from rings. thereafter, as evidenced in narrow tree Andrew Drouin An example of how dendroclimatology rings. This was cross-referenced with The Tree Ring Lab was founded in the has presented environmental data lies numerous other sources, including lake South Okanagan Trail Alliance 1930s by A.E. Douglass, an astronomer in a recent two-decade-long drought sediments, ice core samples, coral and who used trees and their rings to better along a section of the Colorado River - the shells of long-dead geoducks. A recent stint of trail-maintenance by The massive stump that I was examin- in that timeframe. understand the connection between sun- the longest experienced since medieval the South Okanagan Trail Alliance ing displayed these growth rings spots and climate. The Lab has helped times when a drought there lasted 62 Even the universe’s countless stars offer included hiring a professional faller to fanning out in irregular shapes in Dendrochronology also works on live to establish others like it worldwide, years. Both the recent and historic lack their secrets through trees. Our sun and clear a number of danger-trees along a horizontal spacing, telling its story of trees, where an increment borer is used which has in turn greatly increased the of moisture was recorded in the rings of all other stars emit a form of radiation popular trail on Campbell Mountain. life. to drill a half-inch core-sample from the number of trees studied. trees throughout the area. called cosmic rays; high-energy protons This found me counting tree-rings on tree. From this sample, ring patterns are and atomic nuclei which move through the stump of one particular mammoth Pines like that which I sat upon can plotted by year, providing a history of A dozen laboratories now exist An example of how dendroarchaeology space at nearly the speed of light. which was standing dead and leaning occasionally skip production of their growth conditions. worldwide, holding data from more has shown societal wisdom (or folly) is These energy particles react in the at- hard over the trail. annual rings, or double-up for two than four thousands study sites on every exemplified in understanding that tree mosphere with nitrogen and change the yearly rings, while oaks reliably create Chronologies can present a fibrous map continent except Antarctica. rings show water in the Colorado River levels of carbon 14, which is taken up Not only were the number of rings rings which showcase their age. of time stretching back thousands of was apportioned to regional states based by every living thing and becomes a

impressive for a Ponderosa Pine, but the Likewise, some trees that grow near a years through employing samples from Their work - consisting of more than a on flow from 1905 to 1922, some of the tracer for cosmic ray levels. spacing of same told a wealth of stories. stream can present either enhanced or ancient wood. half-million samples - cumulates in The wettest years in the last 12 centuries, an stunted growth rings. A singular ring’s Tree Ring Data Bank; a Dendrochronol- era known as a pluvial period. An extreme cosmic-ray event – like- Dendrochronology; the dating of tree- width, whether thick or thin, offers If one were seeking to discern when a ogy library open to all tree and tree- ly a large solar-flare, in the year 775, rings, not only determines the age of clues about the growing conditions a fallen tree toppled in the forest, they ring researchers. Each addition to this Tree-ring data presents environmental first found in Japanese cedar trees and a tree, but reveals among other things tree encountered that year. Generally simply need to cross-date (match) its database forms a deeper understanding information in surprising ways; oxygen since, globally, is the strongest cosmic - the climatic conditions in the plant’s speaking, during good growing years, ring patterns to the master chronology of past climate, ecosystems, and human isotope analysis has unlocked the source ray event in the tree ring record, with lifetime and even assists in trees add a thick ring, while challenging for that area. If its rings line up for civilization. of the water that trees drew up through a magnitude larger than the Carrington archaeologically dating projects. years are reflected as narrow and some- years 1790 through 1902 for example, their roots centuries ago, allowing event, a well-documented solar storm in Factors which affect a tree’s growth, times darker rings. you know that’s exactly when it lived Technically speaking, research determination of whether an abundance 1859. be it precipitation, temperature, soil and died. involving tree rings is divided into three of moisture reflected in the rings was nutrients, fire and physical injuries often Researchers specializing in categories: from a hurricane or a severe So the next time that you find yourself appear as a story laid out in rings. dendrochronology may use tree-rings to Trees might be considered as massive 1) dendroclimatology: analysis of tree thunderstorm. wandering the forest, and happen upon determine the era a tree was harvested, organic recording devices, containing rings for past climate data; a stump with clearly delineated tree- Most of us learned early that tree-trunks and even the geographical area that it information about past climate, civili- 2) dendroarchaeology: the study of tree Rings analyzed from ancient trees in rings (which isn’t too difficult in BC add growth-rings each year, building was felled, as all of the same species zations, ecosystems and even galactic ringsto understand how past climate multiple locations worldwide demon- these days), ponder not only the number new layers in order to create strong of trees in a particular area will usually events; much of it many thousands of affected human societies; and strate that after the massive 1568 of rings, but also the bigger picture that trunks that support countless branches add rings at the same pace (thickness) if years old. Techniques for extracting 3) dendroecology: |reconstruction of volcanic eruption of Mount Kelud in is laid out before you. and leaves, no matter the weather. all other growth factors remain constant information from tree rings has been past forest ecosystems.

18 Federation of Mountain Clubs of BC Cloudburst - Fall/Winter Spring/ 2019 Summer 2020 19 An Insider Look: The Tragic Climb of Denali An Interview of Jeffrey Babcock by Ron Dart Alpine Club of Canada-Vancouver

Jeffrey Babcock was on the ill fated and tragic climb of Denali of 1967 (one of the worst climbing disasters in North American mountaineering history).

Needless to say, Jeffrey can tell the story from an insiders perspectives, and he has done so well and wisely in his book, “Should I Not Return”. (2012).

The book begins this way: “Most of this The Upper slopes of Denali (Mount McKinley) showing the early pioneer routes of 1912, 1913, and 1920. (Source: GV News) happened when I was a young man and very naive.” So, now we were six. Park from the summit a week earlier. Tips on how to prevent future The five survivors had dropped down to climbing tragedies I really was member of a rescue team The beginning of the disaster began as a lower camp for more supplies, while that searched for seven missing climb- we established a camp, not at the the seven left above made their summit • Ensure effective communication with ers on the top of Denali in the summer Finishing the climb: Babcock finally tells his story of Denali tragedy (Photo submitted by standard 12,100-foot plateau on bid. Wilcox and three others had already the Park (Plan your trip and route, grab of 1967”. Ron Dart) Karstens Ridge, where most climbers been to the top. A fifth climber at their appropriate safety gear, and stay on camp, but on a small shelf 800 feet 17,900-foot camp, like Grace Hoeman, course so rescue teams can locate your Jeffrey, also, has a most informative Can you discuss, in some detail, way across the McKinley River, the below. was suffering from AMS. So, he chose hiking group). Before you head out, try DVD on a history of climbs of Denali, what it was like to be on Denali beginning of a 15-mile trek over the to descend with Wilcox and the others. the BC Adventure Smart app. varied interpretations of the tragedy of in the fateful 1967 expedition? tundra to reach McGonagall Pass. Our That night what Wilcox called “the 1967 and his story within such a historic team endured ‘three relays,’ back and worst storm ever to hit Denali,” raged What was all this like to be on • Check weather and river forecasts moment: “Death on Denali: Climbing Bad weather enshrouded Denali in forth, in the fog, across the tundra, as down upon us from above. It would Denali in the fateful 1967 (The violent force and magnitude of the Disasters on Mount McKinley.” clouds, providing drizzling rain for the we would do, again on the mountain last, on and off, for the next nine days. expedition? nine-day storm amplified the situation). first week of our journey. At Wonder itself. Freight train winds flattened out tents I have known Jeffrey for many a fond Lake, we met Park Ranger, Wayne that night, as we dug into the snow and It was terrifying, overwhelming, and the • Be sure to carry tools to call for help year and, hopefully, this brief reflection Merry, who told us of the Joseph My brother surprised everyone when ice to survive. greatest challenge of my life to date. (e.g. flare, satelite phone). by him will whet your appetite for the Wilcox Expedition, a 12-man team that he led us up the wrong valley? This book and DVD. would be a week or so ahead of us on error in judgment, however, ended up A few days later, on a steep, icy ridge I remember telling myself, “You’re • Know the strengths and limits of team the same route. being a ‘saving grace’ for us later on the above the 12,100-foot camp, we met the going to die. You should have gone members and work together. Try not to mountain. five survivors from the Wilcox team, down with Grace and the others.” split up, if possible. (The ‘last-minute’ He expressed concern regarding the tattered and beaten by the raging storm. ______merging of the two teams and leaders competence of some of the Wilcox Once on the glacier, the hardship of The five, Joe Wilcox, among them, dePcreased the chance of survival; In- climbers. But, he, like many others snowshoe travel, rope teams, crevasses, descended the following day, taking To prevent a deja vu of the tragic trip, stead of working together, they judged within the Park, had heard about expert and avalanches quickly got everyone’s with them Grace Hoeman, the one we’ve put together some lessons learned and criticized each other’s actions). Bradford Washburn’s early criticism of attention. Because of this, two of our female climber from our team. She had from the story and safety survival tips Joe Wilcox, the leader of the expedition. climbers ‘opted-out’ and decided to been coughing up blood-streaked (gathered from BC Adventure Smart • Find warm, protected shelter (the At the time, I feared Merry might have return home. A huge Grizzly had also sputum for the past two days. safety webinar and website at www. climber’s trekked out of their comfort viewed me in a similar light. charged these men while relaying gear adventuresmart.ca/tripplanning). zone - and did not stay on the plateau). in the overcast tundra a few days earlier. Seven of the Wilcox men remained high After the others arrived, we forged our on the mountain. They had radioed the See the tips in the sidebar. • Plan for the worst - and stay calm.

20 Federation of Mountain Clubs of BC Cloudburst - Fall/Winter Spring/ 2019 Summer 2020 21 Support the Member Grant Program

We’d like to thank Back Forty Lifestyle Co. for donating 5% of all house-brand sales to the Federation of Mountain Clubs of BC!

Their donations go directly into our Member Club Grant fund, which supports CLUB RAMBLINGS club-initiated projects like trail & hut upgrades, education & safety training, and so much more.

Visit the Back Forty Lifestyle Co. website at https://backfortylifestyleco.ca for outdoor attire and make a purchase. 5% of all Back Forty Lifestyle Co. brand attire and gear goes towards projects that enhance trails & backcountry recreation!

Do you have a story to tell? Would like to share tips with other backcountry clubs?

Share your tips, trips, and other helpful information with other member clubs.

Mount Becher Near Courtenay, BC We invite member clubs to exchange ideas and information about successes. Members from Chillwack Outdoor Club (Photo: Christine Camilleri) (Photo credit: Bob St. John) These could include promotional materials and suggestions, safety tips, leadership trips, and more. If you have any ideas, stories, or tips to share, send The Magic of Storytelling them to [email protected] An Adventure by Christine Camilleri Chilliwack Outdoor Club

One of the most active clubs in the On day #7 of a 14-day trip last Dave recited the entire Robert Service Lower Mainland is the Chilliwack summer, our stories were becoming poem to 11 attentive and delighted Outdoor Club. Sandwiched between shorter with more pauses in between adults under the stars that night. What Vancouver and Hope, we enjoy and and quieter talk. I remember thinking a feat! have easy access to local trails from the “Maybe it’s time for bed? I mean it’s interior to the Mt. Baker area in the US. only 8:30, but good enough?” He challenged himself to memorize it and thought it would be a good share at This past year, we worked on many Then Dave spoke: the end of a day’s hike. projects, including participant and trip “There are strange things done in the leader trips, member socials, safety midnight sun. Now, some of us are doing the same courses, trail maintenance, a photo By the men who moil for gold; thing and recite different poems and contest, and welcome packages for new The Arctic trails have their secret tales, stories. members. We’ve posted most of our That would make your blood run trips on social media! cold.” We never know when someone will stand up and regale us with a At the end of many multi-day trips, we We turned our heads, sat up a little performance of the Charge of the Light often end up sitting in a circle. We’re straighter, and waited with bated breath Brigade, The Big Rock Candy tired at the end of the day, but still share as our storyteller continued: Mountains, or a legend of how the fox the day’s adventures, and talk about the “The Northern Lights have seen queer got its tail. It’s a magical experience - next day’s plans. Night after night, this sights, often followed by enthusiastic clapping. can become routine and a tradition. Of But the queerest they ever did see course, there is no other entertainment Was that night on the marge of Lake Not to mention, no one ventures off to An epic day of slush skiing on handmade skis on Mt. Hays in Prince Rupert BC - on the North Coast! like our own stories and jokes. Lebarge, bed too early anymore! (Photo: Robert Rushton - Prince Rupert Backcountry Society) I cremated Sam McGee.”

22 Federation of Mountain Clubs of BC Cloudburst - Fall/Winter Spring/ 2019 Summer 2020 23 Surveying the 120th Meridian and the Great Divide: The Alberta-BC Survey, 1918-1924

GOOD READS Author: Jay Sherwood Published by Caitlin Press, Halfmoon Bay, BC, 2019

Reviewed by Mike Nash Caledonia Ramblers Popular Day Hikes Book Series (2019) Book review by Ron Dart Alpine Club of Canada-Vancouver

Searching for breathtaking high point, and best time of the hikes worth exploring year to make the trip. You’ll also find an area map at the beginning ‘Surveying the Great Divide: The Alberta/BC Boundary Survey, 1913-1917’ by Jay Sherwood (reviewed in the Spring/ Rocky Mountain Books recently of each section. Summer 2019 issue of Cloudburst), details the first five years of the survey of Canada’s longest interprovincial boundary. This published a superb series that highlights second volume covers the period 1918 to 1924 and relates the completion of the Great Divide Survey and much of the 120th five areas worth trekking and mentions There is no doubt Rocky Meridian Survey. In it, the founding president of the Alpine Club of Canada (ACC), Arthur Oliver Wheeler continues to lead trails that are better to hike in Mountain Books should be the BC crew responsible for surveying along the mountains of the Great Divide using a combination of triangulation and comparison to others. The series warmly commended on phototopographic surveying. R.W. Cautley continues to lead the Alberta crew responsible for surveying the economically contains five books with authors that publishing these series for those important mountain passes through the Rockies. The Alberta and BC teams worked closely during the 1913-1917 phase as have extensive knowledge of the keen to take to the hills and their surveys often intersect. By 1917, they have completed the survey from the U.S. border north to Howse Pass and have regions covered. You’ll want to add mountain terrain. jumped ahead to survey the Yellowhead Pass. each book to your collection; the combination of the text, maps, and In this second phase, the BC and Alberta crews continue to work together to survey six more mountain passes, namely: photos in each book makes ownership Fortress, Athabasca, Whirlpool, Tonquin, Miette, and Robson. Otherwise, their work diverges as Wheeler continues the Great worthwhile. Divide Survey and Cautley focuses on the 120th Meridian. Field seasons are short, typically three months between July and September, and both men’s work takes on new dimensions: This popular hiking series is updated regularly to provide up-to-date Cautley is now surveying a geographically fixed straight line through an entirely different landscape. To facilitate this work, information, maps, and terrain. You’ll the Dominion Observatory first establishes an accurate longitude near the BC community of Pouce Coupe using the telegraph find the latest information and line to give a precise time signal. From there, Cautley accurately measures some 8.3 kilometres east to pinpoint the 120th directions when planning a new hiking Meridian, and then south towards the intersection with the Great Divide and north through the agricultural land of the Peace. destination. His work is complicated by the need to cut long sightlines through forest, and by the relative lack of gravel in the lowlands with which to construct monuments. The five books in the updated 2019 “Popular Day Hikes” series include: Take a hike! Wheeler has fewer surveyed mountain passes to tie into north of the Jasper area, and so Canada’s Surveyor General, Every book lists and describes Édouard-Gaston Deville arranges for H. F. Lambart of the Dominion Geodetic Survey to assist him for the last three years of Canadian Rockies by Tony Daffern between 35-40 hikes in each region - Urbanites and recreationists can the survey by establishing a triangulation network and series of survey stations between the Yellowhead Pass and the 120th Kananaskis Country by Gillean Daffern with attractive and evocative colours get a taste of the great outdoors Meridian to which Wheeler can connect. Wheeler’s task is to locate the Continental Divide, and thus the general location of Northern Okanagan: Vernon, Shuswap, and photographs. And, to make each trip at an affordable price and try out the interprovincial boundary, and then to survey it. To accomplish this, he uses both triangulation and photography, a side Lumby by Gerry Shea even more enticing and convincing, for the expansive terrains in Alberta benefit of which is a large number of precisely located and dated historic photographs. These are now being used to track South-Central Okanagan: Kelowna, those with different skill and strength or British Columbia. vegetation and glacial change over 100 years by UVIC’s Mountain Legacy Project. The survey work is arduous and often Penticton, Oliver by Gerry Shea levels, each trip description lists dangerous, carrying a 45 pound (20 kg) instrument kit across glaciers and to the top of many mountains, sometimes in the Vancouver Island by Theo Dombrowski distance, height gain, challenge level, midst of extreme electrical hazard.

24 Federation of Mountain Clubs of BC Cloudburst - Fall/Winter Spring/ 2019 Summer 2020 25 1918 and 1919 surveys are affected by wildfire smoke.

Thomson has an unusual experience while surveying on the edge of a steep slowly northwards through Jasper Cautley standing next wall near Mount Columbia. A Golden National Park towards the 120th to their commemorative eagle tries to knock him off the cliff Meridian. At Lambart’s instigation, monument at Robson Pass, during a windstorm, a hunting technique 1921 sees the start of the first aerial near where the ACC fitting- that has been observed being employed flights over the Northern Rockies and ly proposes to build a new successfully against wildlife. Despite both he and Wheeler are quick to see mountain hut a century later. these setbacks, many now familiar the benefits. Although it would be a features of the Rockies are climbed and while before aircraft would be regularly The book ends with a plea surveyed around the Columbia Icefields. employed for aerial photogrammetry, to continue the Mountain their reconnaissance flights over the Legacy Project, as much of On Fortress Lake, they build a raft in 1922 survey areas save them con- the area north of the Kick- order to transport gear, a vessel they siderable time that would otherwise ing Horse Pass has yet to grandly name The Fortress Queen. I have been lost on the ground. Later be re-photographed. This was interested to read of their stay at that season, while surveying down the could be hugely beneficial Camp Parker above Nigel Creek, as it Smoky River to Bess Pass, Wheeler is today with the rapid glacial was almost exactly 100 years later that I able to tie into his ACC-sponsored 1911 and watershed changes that was there for the first time last July. survey around Mount Robson that was are taking place, as well as instrumental in the establishment of providing an invaluable research legacy Wheeler continues as boundary Mount Robson Provincial Park in 1913. for the next century. Get Involved with the commissioner for British Columbia for I enjoyed their accounts of the country Federation the remaining years of the survey, but north of Robson to Bess and Jackpine Both books in the series are from 1920 onwards he starts to devolve Passes and on to Mounts Sir well-researched and worthwhile reads, Join us! We’re seeking nominations The book opens by re-introducing the hard-to-access terrain as he works north responsibility for much of the actual Alexander and Ida and the Narroway and are essential elements of anyone’s for new Board of Directors or boundary survey’s main protagonists: from Howse Pass along a “very erratic” surveying to Campbell. River, as I have researched and Canadian mountain library. Lavishly Committee members. If you or Deville, representing the Dominion watershed. In the first month of backpacked through many of those illustrated with historic photographs and someone else are interested, email Land Survey, Cautley representing Wheeler’s season, he slips on an ice Wheeler has reached the age of 60 and areas. maps, each is a large-format, [email protected] Alberta, Wheeler representing British slope and slides a considerable distance is finding mountain climbing harder; soft-covered book in the tradition of Columbia, and A. J. Campbell, BC to fall into a crevasse. His crew has a however, he continues to contribute a 1924 is the 12th and final year of the Sherwood’s earlier photo-journal works Here’s how you can get involved: assistant in charge while Wheeler is narrow escape from falling ice, braves fair amount of field work each year. As survey, except for the northernmost about 20th Century BC surveyors. They 1. Help fundraise to raise funds to away attending ACC summer camps. electrical storms at high survey stations, well, he turns his attention to section of the 120th Meridian that are great value at under $30 each and support advocacy efforts, including Next is a review of the respective and Wheeler has a close encounter with developing a commercial walking tour would not be needed until 1950 for oil provide a unique look at the surveying protecting and increasing access to surveying methods, followed by a grizzly bear that “ran like blazes.” between Banff and Mount Assiniboine. and gas development. New technology of Canada’s Rockies and the young non-motorized trails. chapters detailing each of the survey Then, while Wheeler is away at the in the form of radio telegraphy now Alpine Club. seasons from 1918 to 1924. The book ACC camp in Paradise Valley, one of To that end, he leases land from the makes it possible to determine the 2. Join a Committee to discuss ends with chapters on the 1950s the crew who is inexperienced in BC government for a seasonal camp at precise longitude at any location using issues or provide a stronger voice to completion of the 120th Meridian mountain climbing loses a precious Mount Assiniboine and petitions for the telegraphic time signals. ***** protect key recreational areas, and Survey and geographical naming issues. book of field notes into a glacial stream, establishment of a provincial park to develop strategies for the recreation requiring many of the earlier survey protect the area (achieved in 1922). One Official approval is required from the ‘Surveying the 120th Meridian and the and maintenance of parks in BC. The 1918 season is especially hard for stations to be reoccupied. significant addition to the crew that year BC, Alberta and Federal governments to Great Divide: The Alberta-BC Bound- Sign up at both Wheeler and Cautley as is Wheeler’s son, Oliver, who is seeking conclude the survey, and as part of that ary Survey, 1918-1924’ by Jay Sher- mountainclubs.org/volunteer money and experienced men are in The 1919 season is better staffed with surveying and climbing experience in process a ceremony is held at Robson wood; Caitlin Press, Halfmoon Bay, short supply in the last year of the war. Conrad Kain and A. S. Thomson rejoin- the Rockies to bolster his forthcoming Pass. This was coincident with the 1924 BC, 2019; ISBN 978-1-773860-09-1; 3. Donate to the FMCBC and As well, the weather is unusually wet, ing Wheeler’s crew, but it also has survey work for the British government ACC summer camp that saw the first softcover, 192 pages, illustrations, support advocacy efforts or help limiting surveying and making stream challenges with the death of a pack- in India and for a subsequent bid for female ascents of Mount Robson by maps, portraits, 26 cm; $29.95. fund trail projects under the Club and river crossings difficult. Spanish flu horse, a concussion suffered by Everest. BC’s Phyllis Munday and American, Member Grant Program at shuts down Cautley’s season early, and Thomson, and a serious knee injury Annette Buck. There is a fine pho- ***** mountainclubs.org/donate Wheeler has to deal with increasingly experienced by Campbell. Both the The Boundary Survey progresses tograph in the book of Wheeler and

26 Federation of Mountain Clubs of BC Cloudburst - Fall/Winter Spring/ 2019 Summer 2020 27

The Last Blue Mountain: The Great Karakoram 1959 edition of ‘The Last Blue Mountain’ (Source: Biblio.com) two members of the party decided to Ultimately one of each party — one down to camp 3, where the fifth Climbing Tragedy go a hundred feet farther for a slightly rescuer and one rescued — died, despite member of the climbing team, better view. They were instantly swept the most heroic efforts. Ironically, were American, Scott Hamilton had almost away by an avalanche into a nearly it not for a single lost crampon, all four given up hope for them after occupying Author: Ralph Barker World.’ I discovered that the book was a New Zealander made up the climbing inaccessible snow bowl. would likely have survived; but two did the camp alone for a week. Less 2020 edition published by a collector’s item, fetching up to $200 team, and for four of them it was their make it out alive, and according to Sir experienced than the others, he had Vertebrate Publishing, from online booksellers; if you were first high altitude venture. They were Having miraculously survived the John Hunt in his foreword to the first been prevaricating for some time Sheffield, UK, March 2020 lucky to find a copy. I was fortunate to supported by six Hunza porters up to 1,000-foot fall thanks to the cushioning edition, “The real measure is the suc- between a dangerous solo descent locate a single copy in the BC library their penultimate camp 3, which they effect of the avalanche debris, they were cess or failure of the climber to triumph, through the icefall and down steep snow system which I borrowed through our established at 5,639 m (18,500 ft). mostly uninjured, but they had lost their not over a lifeless mountain, but over slopes in an almost certainly futile bid Reviewed by Mike Nash marvelous interlibrary loan service. ice axes and other critical clothing and himself: the true value of the enterprise to get help, and an even more desperate Caledonia Ramblers Then, in February 2020 the UK’s After extensive periods of bad weather gear, and were trapped. The lies in the example to others of human solo climb to search for his missing premier mountain literature publisher had ended any hope for a summit bid, expedition doctor suffered a motive and human conduct.” companions. As it was, from camp 3 I came across ‘The Last Blue told me that they were republishing the they settled on their fallback option of dislocated hip that could have spelled the trio barely made it down alive after Mountain’ ten years ago as I was work and offered me a review copy... I a high altitude reconnaissance from a certain death in the circumstances, but it Tony Streather was once again thrust another bivouac along the route. researching lessons of history for a new jumped at the chance. fourth camp. This they achieved when sprang back into place when he made a into a heroic role, having earlier book on outdoor safety and survival. four members of the team reached 6,401 sudden move. distinguished himself in rescue efforts Streather, alive and well in his eighties, ‘The Last Blue Mountain’ is Ralph m (21,000 ft) near the top of Haramosh on the ill-fated American K2 attempt was the subject of the 2007 Sunday The 1959 edition was titled ‘The Last Barker’s account of the 1957 Oxford I, from where they could see in detail During three terrible days and nights in 1953 that was described in the book Times story, in which the writer Blue Mountain: The True and Mov- University expedition to 7,397 m the final route to Haramosh II. They that followed, the two remaining ‘K2 The Savage Mountain’ by Charles concluded “At a time when ing Story of the Ill-starred Expedition (24,270 ft) Mount Haramosh in were relieved to see that the summit climbers led by Tony Streather set out Houston and Robert Bates. He had mountaineers are often portrayed as Against Mount Haramosh,’ and led Kashmir’s Karakoram Range. One of ridge was technically very difficult, to rescue the first two. They eventually further established himself as one of the callous egotists, their sacrifice remains off with a foreword by Sir John Hunt. the world’s great survival stories, and firmly ending any temptation for a succeeded in their effort, only to fall leading Himalayan climbers of the day a shining example to us all.” Streather I found it through a 50th anniversary a mountaineering classic on a par with summit dash. Then, just minutes from themselves into the same snow trap in when he reached the top of died in 2018 aged 92. feature in the Sunday Times of London, ‘Touching the Void,’ this is an epic tale retreating safely from their final high an ironic situation reversal, enduring Kangchenjunga in 1955. published in September 2007 and titled of friendship and fortitude in the face of point, their triumphant reconnaissance harder falls that lacked the cushioning Continued on page 30. ‘The Friends Who Died at the Top of the tragedy. Three Brits, an American and turned into a nightmarish disaster when effects of the earlier avalanche. The two survivors eventually made it

28 Federation of Mountain Clubs of BC Cloudburst - Fall/Winter Spring/ 2019 Summer 2020 29 ‘The Last Blue Mountain...’ Jack Boudreau, whose books on interior I thought the book would have benefited continued from page 29 and northern BC pioneers were, for from a stronger beginning; but despite several years, among Caitlin Press’ most my early misgivings I warmed up to it popular outputs. Given reader appetite as I got further along, and by the final The VP edition retains Lord Hunt’s ‘The Last Blue Mountain: The Great for a firsthand, idiomatic style of history page I felt that it was a down-to-earth original foreword, as well as a new Karakoram Climbing Tragedy’ by telling, this book may also do well. story that was fairly told and worth introduction by Ed Douglas, former Ralph Barker reading and knowing about. editor of the Alpine Journal. Douglas The real life stories give a good sense of provides new insights into the Paperback, ISBN: 978-1-912560-42- what horse packing and big game hunt- Mountain Man: The Life of a Guide protagonists as well as the author, who 4, 232 pages, Publication date: March ing in the mountains was, and to some Outfitter by Hiram Cody Tegart with achieves the difficult goal of telling 2020, £12.99; Special hardcover edi- extent still is like. If you backpack in Andrew Bruce Richards; a riveting tale and bringing out the tion: £24.00. https://www.v-publishing. off-the-beaten-track places, you might Caitlin Press, 2019; ISBN: climbers’ personalities and co.uk/books/books-new-and-coming- still run into the occasional horse riders 9781773860060; Paperback; 240 pages, interrelationships, despite not being on soon/books-new-and-coming-soon-the- or pack trains as I did several times last B&W photo throughout: $24.95. the expedition himself. last-blue-mountain/ year. Even if you are not a fan of guided big game hunting, it’s worth recalling Mountain Man Hiram Cody Tegart (Source: The Columbia Valley Pioneer) that many of our mountain trails (cer- tainly in the Rockies) had their origin as horse trails, and that this is a rich and essential part of our provincial history and rural economy. Mountain Man: The Life As is oft the case with biography, the of a Guide Outfitter book began slowly for me, with what Author: Hiram Cody Tegart with seemed like a rather scattered approach to the protagonists’ early years. How- Andrew Bruce Richards ever, I resisted the temptation to put it Published by Caitlin Press, BC, aside, and by the mid-point my interest 2019 level picked up as we got into stories by other guides and clients. These

third-party accounts set the stage for Reviewed by Mike Nash the return of Tegart’s voice in the later Caledonia Ramblers chapters as he pulls no punches in his authentic and incisive narratives.

Tegart, we also learn, was one of a Mountain Man is the story of legendary group of people who fought for pro- guide outfitter, Cody Tegart, set in the tection of an area that culminated in mountains of southeast British the establishment of the Height of the Columbia in the late 20th Century. Rockies Provincial Park in 1995. The book ends on a political note, protesting Tegart died in 2018, aged 68, before the what the authors see as mistaken wild- Welcome Burnaby Outdoor Club! book was finished; and it fell to friend life management practices of successive and one-time neighbour, Andy Richards provincial governments, and challeng- The Burnaby Outdoor Club, our newest club member, plans day and overnight, and to complete this compilation and editing ing some present-day perceptions about multi-day trips (when safe to do so), and coordinates and promotes year-round of stories by Tegart and others. Richards predator/prey relationships and grizzly outdoor activities, including hiking, snowshoeing, walking, cycling, skiing, resists the temptation to over-edit the bear hunting. skating, and more. writers’ colloquialisms in order to better bring the reader a sense of realism of a Additionally, the club provides hike ratings and trip reports. View more fast-disappearing mountain culture. The information about the Burnaby Outdoor Club on their website at work is not unlike that of the late burnabyoutdoor.com

30 Federation of Mountain Clubs of BC Cloudburst - Fall/Winter Spring/ 2019 Summer 2020 31 Carpes Lake Photo credit: Carol Hunter This issue’s cover photo, taken by Maria Christina S. at Upper Pierce Lake. Trails Society of BC - New Associate Member Pierce Lake Trail is a 11.4 kilometre

The Trails Society of BC assembles and preserves the British Columbian section of The Great Trail (renamed from the out and back trail located near Fraser Trans Canada Trail) and advocates for the expansion, sustainability, and preservation of greenway trails in B.C. Valley that features a lake and is rated Visit their website at trailsbc.ca or follow them on Facebook, Instagram, or Twitter. as difficult. The trail offers a number of What is an associate member with the FMCBC? Non-profit organizations and federal charities, whose mission/vision state- activity options and is best travelled from ments align closely with our own, can join the FMCBC for reasons of common interest. Learn more about associate and individual memberships at mountainclubs.org/membership June until October.

Get Involved—Volunteer with the FMCBC! We’re looking for fall/ winter Cloudburst action shots for our next cover of Cloudburst! Help us protect the backcountry for non-motorized users by Cover Photo Email your entries to volunteering a little or a lot—every bit helps! Contest [email protected] by October 1, 2020.

We are looking for individuals with skills and/or experience in many different areas including fundraising, outreach, grant writing, advocacy and more. Let us know your interests and how you can help.

Sign up to volunteer at mountainclubs.org/volunteer or talk to your club’s FMCBC Rep.

32 Federation of Mountain Clubs of BC Cloudburst - Fall/Winter Spring/ 2019 Summer 2020 33 FMCBC MEMBER CLUBS

FRASER VALLEY SUNSHINE COAST - NORTH COAST Backroads Outdoor Club – facebook.com/backroadsoutdoor Mount Remo Backcountry Society – mtremo.ca Bear Mountain Trail Society – bearmountaintrailsociety.blogspot.ca Powell River Parks and Wilderness Society – sunshinecoast-trail.com Chilliwack Outdoor Club – chilliwackoutdoorclub.com Tetrahedron Outdoor Club – tetoutdoor.ca Chilliwack Park Society – chilliwackparksociety.ca Valley Outdoor Association – valleyoutdoor.org VANCOUVER ISLAND & ISLANDS Alberni Valley Outdoor Club – albernivalleyoutdoorclub.wordpress.com SOUTHERN INTERIOR Comox District Mountaineering Club – comoxhiking.com Central Okanagan Climbing Association – facebook.com/climbcoca Friends of Strathcona Park – friendsofstrathcona.org Columbia Valley Climbing Association – columbiavalleyclimbing.com Island Mountain Ramblers – islandmountainramblers.com Kamloops Hiking Club – kamloopshikingclub.net Outdoor Club of Victoria – ocv.ca Kamloops Outdoor Club –kamloopsoutdoorclub.ca Quadra Island Outdoor Club – qioutdoorclub.org Kootenay Mountaineering Club – kootenaymountaineeringclub.ca Vancouver Island Trail Association – vi-trail.ca Penticton Outdoors Club – pentictonoutdoorsclub.ca Victoria Outdoor Club Meetup – meetup.com/Victoria-Outdoor-Club Skaha Bluffs Park Watch Society – skahabluffsparkwatch.com South Okanagan Trail Alliance – southokanagantrailalliance.com CENTRAL & NORTHERN INTERIOR Varsity Outdoors Club Okanagan – ubcsuo.ca/varsity-outdoor-club-okana- Bulkley Backcountry Ski Society – bbss.ca gan Caledonia Ramblers – caledoniaramblers.ca Chetwynd Outdoors Society – chetoutdoors.wordpress.com SOUTHWEST MAINLAND & SEA TO SKY Fraser Headwaters Alliance – fraserheadwaters.org Alpine Club of Canada (Vancouver Section) – accvancouver.ca Hickory Wing Ski Touring Club – tmrs.ca/members/hickory- wing-ski- Alpine Club of Canada (Whistler Section) – accwhistler.ca touring-club Bowen Island Trail Society – bowenislandtrailsociety.ca Prince Rupert Backcountry Society - facebook.com/Prince-Rupert-Back- Burnaby Outdoor Club– bowenislandtrailsociety.ca country-Society-103142157816742 Friends of Garibaldi Park Ozalenka Alpine Club Mountain Mentors – mountainmentors.org Skeena Climbing Society – facebook.com/skeenaclimbingsociety North Shore Hikers Society – northshorehikers.org North Vancouver Outdoors Club – northvanoutdoorsclub.ca ASSOCIATE MEMBERS SFU Outdoors Club – facebook.com/groups/1481048385508320 BC Whitewater - bcwhitewater.org Vancouver Rock Climbing Group – vrcg.ca Squamish Access Society – squamishaccess.ca Varsity Outdoor Club (UBC) – ubc-voc.com Trails Society of BC – trailsbc.ca PROVINCE-WIDE CLUBS Hike BC – hike-bc.org

Get involved. Take action.

By working with outdoor recreation organizations and industry and government agencies, the Federation of Mountain Clubs of BC protects and maintains access for quality non-motorized backcountry recreation in British Columbia’s mountains and wilderness areas.

There are many ways to show your support and make a difference:

• Join a member club or talk to your current club • Show your support by becoming an Individual or about becoming a member Associate Member • Make a donation to the FMCBC • Visit our website to learn about the latest issues af- • Volunteer your time by joining a regional fecting BC’s backcountry and find out how to help committee Learn more at: mountainclubs.org

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