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Holiday and Leisure Magazine 2009

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Weihenstephan The Cultural Benedikt XVI. – Today's art, Heart of His tomorrow's “If you haven't The Pope and science and the seen Freising, his close links oldest brewery you don't know to Freising in the world Old Bavaria!" Contents

Semper lustig – numquam traurig Wherever prayers are heartfelt, festivities are joyous Page 4

Freising – Spiritual and Cultural Centre of Old Bavaria "If you haven't seen Freising, you don't know Old Bavaria!“ 1000 Jahre Tradition. Page 6 Life Sciences – The Future Is Now Aber täglich frisch. Freising's cultural and intellectual tradition paves the way for modern science Page 12 The Heart of Old Bavaria At the hub of tradition and the future Page 15

Benedikt XVI. – His Freising Dear visitors to Freising, The Pope and his guests from far and near, close links to Freising and Freising residents, Page 16 "History – hospitality – vitality" is the motto of our city. Let me invite you to explore this seemingly contradictory blend – and I assure you that History of Freising – An Overview you'll never regret it. Vibrant life has pulsed in the shade of the cathedral The history of a city towers for over 1200 years. This is the seat of learning. And the path based on relaxed joviality from the ancient world of the scholars on Cathedral Hill to today's Page 17 campus not only leads from the Early directly into the future, but also links 's largest collection of religious art to modern sculptures by contemporary artists. Between and around these Freising Information two poles of past and present await a host of sights from every epoch of City Tours...... p. 18 art history, numbering many famous names among their creators. All in a Special Offers...... p. 20 tradition-conscious city with a relaxed joviality and warm hospitality City Museum ...... p. 22 that captivates every visitor. Events 2009...... p. 23 Accommodation ...... p. 24 I am delighted to welcome you to our city – so ancient, yet so vibrantly Package Offers...... p. 29 youthful! And I hope that our Freising residents will discover a few new Venues...... p. 30 aspects of our wonderful home in these pages.. schafhof...... p. 33 Airport Visitors Park ...... p. 33 Freising Garden Festival....p. 34 Freising Rose Gardens ...... p. 34 Credits...... p. 34 Freising A-Z ...... p. 36 Dieter Thalhammer Old Quarter Map ...... p. 38 Mayor of Freising

www.molkerei-weiheh nstephhan.de 3 For this reason, the culture of hos- porary music of all kinds. Entertaining, pitality flourishes in Freising. In cosy inspiring reflection and discussion, Semper inns, elegant restaurants or bistros pointing the way into the future. lustig - and pubs teeming with young people. Freising's Cultural Festival, its festival And naturally in the beer gardens of traditional music in the autumn and street cafés. As soon as the and its guitar festival have attracted numquam first rays of spring sun warm the great acclaim and underpin the streets, the city is transformed in- city's image as a cultural centre. to a Mediterranean-style open-air theatre in an urban setting. Strolling through the ancient lanes, traurig one suddenly emerges in romantic Culture – ahead of its time nooks or hidden squares, on the The prince- always had time banks of a river, under a statue of a for art and culture. This tradition venerable saint, and soaks up the "Then there are the two of Weihenstephan and has retained its vitality in Freising, tranquillity exuded by the ancient and even today is fearless in creating stones. Or the beauty of the sur- Neustift, which are assiduous at holding processions and even scope for artistic freedom, forming rounding countryside, within which more assiduous at brewing beer." a fascinating arc from past to present. Freising flourishes like the roses in These mocking lines, penned 200 years ago by Enlightenment And not only on the university cam- the city. For hiking, cycling, swimming pus; Freising is a young city, in or the many modern types of sport, author Pezzl, have a grain of truth at their centre. Wherever which classical culture is joined by striking new notes in placid Old

prayers are heartfelt, festivities are joyous – particularly in leben a host of cabarets, small clubs, Bavaria with their call to activity. freising Catholic Old Bavaria, with Freising at its centre. er avant-garde theatres and contem-

4 5 Freising – Spiritual and Cultural Centre of Old Bavaria

Here, in the spiritual The true story goes that in the 12th come the first of Freising, century the Bear of Freising lost crossed the to . One dark heart of Old Bavaria, the trial of strength with the mighty night deep in the mountains, a hun- Bavarian Lion, thus paving the way gry bear scented 's pack- worlds collide. for nearby to become the horse, killed it with one blow of its capital of the State of Bavaria. But paw and ate its fill of the flesh. The cathedral towers a far more important aspect than Corbinian sat nearby at the fire, watch over an old any power struggles and the many perhaps accompanied by a terrified battles and disputes fought between servant, and calmly watched the city pulsing with Freising's prince-bishops and the feast. When the bear was sated, mighty rulers of the Wittelsbach the saint told him that although he today's young life. dynasty was the spiritual and reli- fully understood that a bear must gious leadership of the state. A allay his hunger in this way, the All clothed in an air of leadership which also stood the test bear must also understand him. The of an era when Freising was a rural pack-horse had carried his baggage, tranquil equanimity. city of civil servants slumbering at and since it was now in the bear's the foot of Cathedral Hill, garnering belly, the bear would have to take "If you haven't seen strength for its role in modern over its task. The bear understood – Freising, you don't Bavaria as a driver of the future. perhaps because the explanation came from a saint – and, without know Old Bavaria!" How the Bear Came to Freising growl or murmur, carried Corbinian's

leben It was around the year 720 that baggage to Rome, where the saint freising (W. H. Riehl). er Corbinian, a missionary later to be- released him with thanks. This legend

6 7 explains why the arms of the City towers over the spot where Freising's of Freising show a saddled bear. The first Church of St. Mary stood. Cathe- ancient arms of the prince-bishops dral Hill, at the end of the Munich additionally show a Moorish figure, gravel plain, is visible from afar. Yet the origins of which are shrouded once it afforded an even more im- in history; not even a legend remains. posing vision; in old engravings a Yet it too is so much a part of Frei - host of church spires can be seen sing and its Cathedral Hill that Pope jutting into the air all around, warn- Benedict included the bear and the ing travellers down the River Moor in his own coat of arms as a of the presence of this towering Freising's arms reminder of his life in Freising. In spiritual city - as Freising was until still show the earlier times the Moor was also de- the 19th century. This religious and bear below the picted on a fountain standing in cultural significance was by far the Bavarian lozenges the centre of the vast cathedral most dominant factor in the bour- square; the story goes that at the geois city huddled at the foot of 1000-year celebrations of the dio- Cathedral Hill, yet the religious lea - An aerial view clearly shows the cese in 1724, red wine gushed out ders were somewhat afraid of this Cathedral Hill of this fountain to refresh the guests. secular influence: why else would complex, crammed The fountain was forced to make they have separated their "Scholars' with buildings from way for great Bishop Otto, but Hill" from the rest of the city – also a range of epochs found a new home at the foot of owned by the prince-bishops, of Cathedral Hill in Bahnhofstrasse. course - by a turreted wall? And yet the bishops of Freising were Mons doctus not only the religious leaders of their , but also its secular Cathedral Hill. Imagine it as the lords. nucleus of Freising. Where Kardi- The and of Bavarian bishoprics in 739: to part of its toll revenues to Freising, nal-Döpfner-Haus stands today was They ruled with stately assurance baptismal church of drive ahead the mission in the south right up to 1803. Only then, when probably once the ducal palatinate over their many territories, the wide- St. Johannes (1321) and south-east. This is evidenced the prince-bishopric was dissolved with Gothic vaulted of the Agilolfing dynasty. Count Gri- spread locations of which bore wit- The remains of St. Corbinian lie by the monasteries of and and became part of Bavaria, was ceilings, one of the moald had appointed Corbinian the ness to Bonifatius' command to the oldest churches in the Crypt and Scharnitz and by extensive estates the capital able to free itself from first bishop of Freising. The Cathedral diocese of Freising at the conference on Cathedral Hill are exhibited in the Wachau, Lower and this tiresome obligation with a final in ceremonial processions what is today Slovenia. One of these payment. Today, the view from territories and its appertaining the belvedere of Cathedral Hill, the This arch leads princely rights, albeit somewhat bishops' "Bella Vista“, sweeps down to the “Belvedere”, nearer, is associated with the foun- the valley of the River Isar as far as which offers dation of nearby Munich. Duke Munich, and extends on clear days magnificent Henry the Lion succeeded in trans- as far as the Alps, where Werdenfels panoramic views as far as the Alps ferring the toll rights for Oberföhring – once owned by Freising – lay near Bridge, owned by the Bishop of the lofty Zugspitze. Freising, to Munich. We no longer know exactly how: the illegal burn- Scholarly Centre ing of the bridge is not documented Bishop Otto (1137-58), of the royal with any certainty in the history- Staufer dynasty, is primarily impor- books. Munich's rise as a city was tant for another reason: he is con- founded on toll revenues from the sidered one of the great philosophers salt trade. Bishop Otto I. naturally of history of the Middle Ages and resisted this "dispossession" and, as the author of a major work about "Scholars' Hill" viewed the uncle of Emperor Frederick Bar- his nephew, Emperor Frederick I. from the west of the city, the direction leben barossa, achieved at least partial Barbarossa. Together with the fa- freising

of Weihenstephan er success: Munich was obliged to pay mous Freising scriptorium, he formed

8 9 During recon- struction (1159) stone reliefs of Frederick 1. Bar- barossa and the The church of Freising bishop the Premonstra - Otto of Freising tensian Order (Frederick's uncle) was redesigned were added to in rococo the main portal style in 1756

The richly Market square stuccoed Asam- and Town Hall, saal on Marien- But the Renaissance is also present Freising was the spiritual and cultural with St. George's platz square is Church in the Freising's most on Cathedral Hill. The Princes' Clois- heart of Old Bavaria until the late background and ters (Fürstengang) are the earliest 14th century. part of a great tradition, already resplendent design for its 1000- magnificent Mariensäule venue example of this epoch in Bavaria. column in venerable in his era, of Freising's year anniversary, and the most fa- Later it became a prosperous country Their walls display a collection of the foreground "mons doctus“. The first Bavarian mous artists of the time were chosen city, and has retained an atmosphere portraits of Freising's prince-bishops historian to be recorded was Bishop to do this. The frescoes and plaste of placid, cheery tranquillity: houses for our examination: from pious, Arbeo of Freising work of the Asam with rococo facades announcing withdrawn men of the Church to (764-83), who brothers created a their owners' affluence and wealth, Not to be missed: haughty rulers exuding princely as- either wrote or glorious, glowing The walls of the the Town Hall and 14th-century Cathedral Hill with surance. Each era had the bishops commissioned a Baroque master- Princes' St. George's Church, whose Baroque Cloisters depict it needed to steer Freising's ship text known as "ab the cathedral, piece. The altar- tower hails St. Peter and Paul's all the predeces- safely through the storms of history. rogans“, the first crypt, library, piece of the Madon- Church and its Premonstratensian sors of today's The diocesan museum, housing Ger- -Old High Ger- na of the Apoca- archbishop of Order, founded by Bishop Otto I. Princes' Cloisters, many's largest collection of religious man glossary, be- lypse was painted the diocese (around 1142) and today the District belvedere and art and dubbed "Freising's spiritual Wieskirche, lieved to be the by Peter Paul Ru - Office. Originally planned as the diocesan museum gallery" by art historian Herbert a popular oldest book in the bens; its original is equal of the Cathedral, in 1756 the pilgrimage Schindler, exhibits a selection of in the Pinakothek church was designed as a jewel of church at works that trace Freising's signifi- and today kept in St. Gallen. Its in Munich. And the cathedral offers Bavarian rococo by artists including the gateway cance throughout the centuries. to the city name is derived from the first word a host of further gems from art his- The enormous Franz Xaver Feichtmayr, Johann Bap- of its text, "abrogans“. tory for interested visitors. painting by Peter In the Shadow of the Cathedral tist Zimmermann and Ignaz Günther. Paul Rubens Scholarliness has never left Freising, Belying its Baroque interior, its focuses the Gazing at the bourgeois city of Old Outside the city and once in a com- and is in evidence not only in façade and entrance still clearly attention on Freising clustered around Cathedral pletely rural setting, the beautiful Bavaria's most beautiful library on show its Romanesque origins: Fred- events at Hill, we can easily imagine that old pilgrimage church of Wieskirche the altar Cathedral Hill, but also in many ex- erick Barbarossa and his wife Beatrix city life was once dominated by contains a fascinating collection of amples in the city below: the hall watch over the portal. And the crypt, clerics, prelates and religious orders. votive images. of the former Lyceum, for example, the last resting-place of St. Corbinian today the Asam Theatre and Frei- and others, has the magical Beasts' sing's most magnificent venue. The Pillar at its centre, depicting a gentle interior was decorated by Hans woman with a flower subjugating Georg Asam, father of the famous nightmarish images of knights batt - brothers Egid Quirin and Cosmas ling against monsters and being Damian Asam, whose work can also devoured. Unfortunately the sym- be seen in Freising: the old cathedral bolism underlying these images is

was to receive a new, modern and today lost to us. leben

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10 11 Freising is among Germany's most modern and future-oriented centres of knowledge. But here too, as so often in the "city in the hills", the roots of this development extend far into the past.

Life Sciences – The Future Is Now

How the "Hill of Nourishment" became the "Hill of Learning" The spring on Weihenstephan Hill is considered a basic food, Weihen- is said to have been struck out of stephan Hill was quickly renamed the rock by St. Corbinian, and still "Nährberg", or the "Hill of Nourish- flows today. Only ruins now mark ment". The spiritual scholars, deep the site of the former Benedictine in conversation and thought, must abbey. Like their brethren everywhere, often have wandered from hill to the monks at Weihenstephan brewed hill and enjoyed a beer – if only to beer, and because beer in Bavaria be nearer to the blue Bavarian heav- ens. Throughout the centuries these encounters developed into an active partnership. Weihenstephan Brewery is the oldest in the world, and the University's Brewing Faculty which drew on this venerable expertise is today considered among the most modern international establishments of its kind. The monastery traditions, particularly in horticulture, prepared a fertile foundation for the institutes and faculties which transformed the "hill of nourishment" into a "hill of learning", or "mons doctus“ - and so modern and future-oriented into the bargain.

12 13 The Green Centre The institutes and departments of the Brewing Faculty are adjoined by the Agricultural and Horticultural Science Faculty, the Food Process Engineering Faculty and the Forestry Faculty. The Agricultural Meteorology department monitors the weather for farmers, the Floristry College is responsible for the flowers, while Remains of the Brewing and Distilling Research Corbinian's Centre keeps body and soul together Chapel on in a more direct fashion. The show Modern Art Weihen - gardens of the Landscape Architec- Refreshed and at leisure to continue, stephan Hill ture Research Centre are the largest visitors can stroll through the ex- and most important in Germany tensive campus where the landscape, and, like the Court Gardens of the modern architecture and art blend former monastery, are a wonderful into a unique setting. Freising has and educational place for a stroll. always been a centre of art and And for some has inte- refreshment Not to be missed: The show grated mod- afterwards. gardens, the campus ern art into Modern as the with modern sculptures, its cityscape. In the Heart of Old Bavaria brewery is, it the beer garden Works by fa- has never for- mous artists gotten its original purpose. The including Fritz König, Alf Lechner Freising is at the heart of events. capital of Munich, with its sights by, and the Swabian metropolis of Bräustüberl tavern and its shady or Ernst Hermanns have helped to At the gateway between richly tra- and museums, world-famous festi- even closer. ditional Old Bavaria and a region vities and exclusive shopping streets, beer garden are ideal places for a underpin the lofty and essential But whatever the destinations sought with its sights set on the future. in a journey of only 30 minutes. Bavarian rustic picnic. The fame of the beer status of modernity today in this by Freising's visitors, when the shad- hospitality is and "Obatzte", a mixture of Camem- venerable city. alive and well in Take the nearby airport: an interna- The ancient Bavarian city of ows darken into blue and the sun Weihenstephan bert, butter and other flavourings, tional destination and arrival point or World Heritage Site of paints its last rays in golden strokes beer garden extends far beyond their home region. for hosts of scientists attending con- are also a short motorway drive on the cobblestones, all return gladly ferences in Freising to exchange away through the famous hop-grow- to Freising. To the little city where The "Salettl" was their newest theories and ideas. ing region of , which has intellectual animation thrives amid formerly a summer- From the railway station on the so decisively shaped the world-class tranquillity and Old Bavarian hos- house for the edge of the Old Quarter, suburban reputation of Bavarian beer. Even pitality is still firmly rooted. Freising Benedictine monks of Weihenstephan, trains (S-Bahn) link Freising to the and are close awaits you. now long gone. leben

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14 15 Short History of Freising

The Agilolfing dukes were probably not the first to settle on the landmark of Cathedral Hill. As early as the Stone Age its special status was well-known. With the advent of St. Corbinian, Freising became the spiritual and cultural centre of Old Bavaria and later an independent prince-bishopric. Only in the 13th century was Munich able to free itself from Freising's dominance and shift the balance of power. After 1800 the rural Bavarian city slumbered until reawoken by its old virtue of scholarliness. Today Freising is a youthful university city with an atmosphere of relaxed joviality.

approx. 4200 B.C. The first traces of set- 1158 Bishop Otto of Freising, the great 1858 The Munich – Landshut railway tlement on Cathedral Hill date from the politician and scholar and the most significant opens. New Stone Age. figure among the bishops of the ancient bishopric. The same year is traditionally 1945 In the final days of World War 2, on approx. 1700–1500 and 1200–700 B.C. given as the foundation of Munich. The 18 April, the area around In two Bronze Age eras, mountain settle- town arises under Freising's rule but overtakes is bombed. ments on Cathedral Hill achieve supra- the episcopal city in the following centuries. regional significance. 1968 Cathedral Hill is reorganized, the around 1300 The Moor of Freising is de- college and priests' seminary closed or around 700 A.D. The Agilolfing dukes picted in the arms of the Freising bishops. moved to Munich. The following years see establish a palatinate on Cathedral Hill. As prince-bishops of the Holy the establishment of the Kardinal-Döpfner- Regensburg, , Salzburg and Freising they reign over a small secular territory Haus educational centre and the diocesan The arms of Pope Benedict XVI. fea- dral, spending the months of prepa- his time as head of the archdiocese are the centres of their Old Bavarian duchy. which holds estates as far afield as Austria museum. ture two elements referring to his ration in Freising. At the end of he regularly visited Freising. In 1982 around 720 The Agilolfing dukes call the and Slovenia. 1972 As a result of territorial reforms, life in Freising: the legendary Bear 1952 he returned to the city to Joseph Cardinal Ratzinger was called peripatetic West Franconian bishop Corbinian 1724 Prince-Bishop Eckher holds a great Freising loses its independent city status to Freising. He is the city's first bishop and celebration to commemorate the thousandth and becomes a district seat. of St. Corbinian, standing for will- take up the position of lecturer at to Rome as Prefect of the Congre- is honoured today as the patron of Freising ingness to serve, and the the seminary, gation for the Doctrine of anniversary of St Corbinian's arrival, further 1992 The new opens in and its bishopric. crowning the image of the Baroque episcopal Moor of Freising, a figure moving to the the Faith. Before leaving the vicinity. 739 Foundation of the bishoprics of Re- city with glory. whose significance is Chair of Dogmatic he was awarded the Gol- gensburg, Passau, Salzburg and Freising by 1994 As part of the Bavarian state devel- shrouded in history. In fact den Medal of the City of 1802/03 In the process of mediatization opment programme, Freising is upgraded and Fundamental St Bonifatius. Freising becomes an episcopal and secularization, the secular territories there are many and deep Freising, which had become city. from a "medium-sized district centre" to Theology at Frei- of the Freising prince-bishop are incorporated "potential major centre". Key location factors bonds linking Joseph sing University his second home. In 2004 996 Emperor Otto III. awards Freising into Kurbayern (later known as Bavaria). include the international "green" study and Ratzinger to the episcopal from the winter he made a final personal market rights, first turning the spotlight of Monasteries are closed, the episcopal seat research centre at Weihenstephan. The city of Freising. In 1945, semester of visit to Freising. For when history onto the "bourgeois" town at the is moved to Munich in 1821 and the bishopric city's unemployment rate is continuously foot of Cathedral Hill. elevated to the Archbishopric of Munich the lowest in the country. aged 18, he entered the priests' 1954/55 and living in an apartment he returned to his Old Bavarian and Freising. The residence of the prince- seminary on Cathedral Hill and stud- on Cathedral Hill. After holding pro- home from 9 to 14 September 2006, 1021 A Benedictine abbey is founded on bishops becomes a Bavarian country town, 2006 Freising's citizens are concerned ied philosophy there for two years fessorships in a number of German naturally including Freising in his Weihenstephan Hill, also with a tradition its profile dominated by schools and official about Munich Airport's plans for a third dating back to the 8th century. runway. Pope Benedict XVI., whose career before moving to the University of universities, Joseph Ratzinger was itinerary, Joseph Ratzinger was al- and military institutions. On Cathedral Hill seminary institutions are founded in the is closely linked to Munich, visits the ancient 1142 Bishop Otto of Freising founds the Munich. At the end of June 1951 appointed Archbishop of Munich ready Pope, and signed the city's new archbishopric. In 1803 a state forestry episcopal city on 14 September. Premonstratensian monastery of Neustift he and his brother Georg were or- and Freising in 1977 and nominated Golden Book as Benedict XVI. school is founded in the premises of the to the east of the ancient city. dained as priests in Freising Cathe- as Cardinal in the same year. During secularized Benedictine abbey of Weihen- stephan.

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