TABVAR The Association of Bow Valley Rock-climbers

REPORT OF ACTIVITIES Year 2012

Last year marked TABVAR’s 20th year of operation and was one of its biggest years yet with more than $8,000 in donations received, bringing the total funds raised since TABVAR’s inception in 1993 to more than $97,000. We are indeed extremely fortunate to live in such a generous and supportive climbing community. Notable in this support in 2012 were significant donations from The Calgary Climbing Centre, The Alpine Club of Canada’s Calgary, Rocky Mountain and Saskatchewan Sections and substantial donations from family and friends of the late Bradley Joyce in his memory. The balance of revenues during 2012 came from donations from individuals, proceeds from the sale of Urs Kallen’s Yamnuska poster and cash collected in a counter bottle at Wicked Gravity. Mountain Equipment Co-op continued to support TABVAR by providing a discount on bulk hardware purchases. To all of you, a big” thank you”.

2012 saw several changes in the organizational structure of TABVAR. Roger Chayer resigned as President because he moved to Vancouver Island. He will, however, continue to serve as a director. Founding members Chris Miller and John Martin retired from their director’s duties due to other demands on their time. The TABVAR membership voted unanimously to elect Derek Galloway and Greg Tos to fill the vacant directors’ positions.

A total of 102 projects were funded in 2012, comprising some 135 pitches (71 new and 64 refurbishments). The bulk of these were single-pitch sport climbs but a number of multi-pitch routes were also supported. The following is the breakdown by grade of the number of projects supported (new pitches first and refurbished pitches in brackets):

≤5.7: 18 (19); 5.8: 18 (19); 5.9: 7 (7); 5.10: 17 (21); 5.11: 15 (14); 5.12: 9 (3); 5.13: 5; 5.14: 2.

Noteworthy is the large number of projects in the 5.5 - 5.8 grade range that received support.

Most of the new route development supported in 2012 comprised projects at several sectors in Echo Canyon (Grotto Mountain) and in the Ghost River Area. New sport routes at Sunshine Rock, Tunnel Mountain, Heart Creek and Cougar Canyon also received support.

The ongoing support and another generous donation from the Calgary Climbing Centre enabled TABVAR to continue its Anchor and Protection Bolt Replacement Project , the aim of which is to systematically replace sub-standard anchors and protection bolts on climbs in the Bow Valley. Since the project began late 2009, some 170 routes have been refurbished. Refurbishments range from top anchor replacements only on some climbs to completely re-equipping the fixed protection of others. Information about this project and the latest progress report may be found at http://tabvar.org by clicking on “Anchor/Bolt Replacement” in the header bar. The brisk pace of new route development in the Bow Valley and adjacent areas is expected to continue in 2013. More fix-ups of worn and deteriorating anchors and protection bolts are planned as the Anchor and Protection Bolt Replacement Project enters its fourth year. Work on trail and staging areas at several local climbing areas is also needed. Accommodating all these demands will be costly and a concerted effort will have to be made in 2013 to solicit more donations from private individuals as these have fallen to their lowest level since TABVAR began. I am confident that the local climbing community will continue to support TABVAR. Thanks to all of you who have generously donated cash and/or time over the years - you have helped transform the Bow Valley into one of the best-equipped climbing venues in the world.

Jon Jones President, TABVAR January 21, 2013

APPENDIX I: Summary of TABVAR Finances - 2012 operating year (unofficial).

1. TABVAR 2012 Cash Flow (2012-01-01 to 2012-12-31)

INFLOWS

Donations (general) 2309.30 Donations In Memory of Bradley Joyce 3750.00 Donation (Anchor/Bolt Replacement) 2000.00 TOTAL Donations 8059.30 Membership 25.00 MEC patronage refund 36.65 TOTAL INFLOWS 8120.95

OUTFLOWS (2012-01-01 to 2012-12-31)

Bank Charges 17.87 Disbursement: New Routes 2012 2427.38 (see appendix II) Disbursement: New Routes 2011 787.93 (see appendix II) Disbursement: Retrofits 2421.34 Disbursement: Hardware purchases 1955.86 TOTAL Disbursement 7592.51 Post Office Box 180.60 Other office expenses (postage, stationery etc.) 176.97

TOTAL OUTFLOWS 7967.95

OVERALL TOTAL 153.00 2. TABVAR Statement of Financial Position – Account Balances as of 2012-12-31

Bank Accounts BMO 1493.45 Retrofit Fund 409.66 Unencumbered Cash 1083.79

TOTAL Bank Accounts 1493.45

Other Assets Hardware on hand (value in 2012) 2815.47 TOTAL Other Assets 2815.47

OVERALL TOTAL 4308.92

APPENDIX II: DISBURSEMENTS New Routes (Total 3215.31)

20121 2011 other Cousineau, M-A 58.13 3.51 Genereux, Andy 500.00 0.00 Klassen, Mark 396.20 0.00 Martin, John 500.00 26.00 2.452 Meis, Simon 104.30 0.00 Norman, Marcus 28.20 0.00 Perry, Chris 197.30 10.30 Perry, Ian 307.70 1.00 Pieterson, Matt 0.00 28.78 Tos, Greg 335.55 26.89 500.003 Yonge, Chas 0.00 189.00 Sub totals 2427.38 285.48 502.45

1 In 2012 a $500/person/year cap was imposed for new routes. 2 Balance due 2012 3 Heritage payment for Atlantis Wall, Echo Canyon

APPENDIX III: ESTIMATED 2013 OPERATING BUDGET

Reimbursement new route costs 3000.00 Unpaid portions 2012 claims 1100.00 Trail work and staging areas 500.00 Retrofits and anchor upgrades 2500.00 Operating (mailbox, postage etc) 250.00

TOTAL 7350.00 APPENDIX IV: TABVAR DIRECTORS AND COMMITTEE MEMBERS (2012)

Directors:

Jon Jones President Roger Chayer Vice President David Dornian Secretary Steve Fedyna Treasurer Greg Tos Projects Manager Derek Galloway Anchor/Bolt Replacement Project Coordinator

Committee Members:

Chris Miller ACMG Coordinator Ian Greant IT Officer Marc-Andre Cousineau Social Convenor

APPENDIX V: MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION

Mailing address: TABVAR, .P.O.Box 61236, Kensington RPO, Calgary, Alberta T2N 4S6 E-mail: info(at)tabvar(dot)org webpage: www.tabvar.org