This summary of EN 568 does NOT contain the full details of the ICE ANCHORS | EQUIPMENT standard. It is a simplified summary to provide an overview of the test me- EN 568 thods and safety requirements for the product. The official version of the standard must be consulted if full infor- mation is required. Details of the standard are provided at the end of this summary.

Ice anchors: generic term for ice screws and ice . 2. HOLDING FORCE IN ICE

Ice screw: ice that is screwed into the ice for protection Axial force and then screwed back out again after use. F = ≥ 5 kN The anchor must withstand a Ice : an ice anchor that is hammered into ice and then remo- force of 5 kN without shearing 200 mm ved to be used again. or ripping out.

The screw is fixed between Design: ice screws have a cylindrical or semi-cylindrical hollow two cheeks so that the han- body with a thread on the outside and at least one hole at the top 25mm ger is fixed with a distance of for clipping a . 25mm to the cheeks. An axial All edges are to be free from burrs and have no sharp edges at the force is applied to the screw. head and hole.

SAFETY REQUIREMENTS DETERMINING THE SCREWABILITY OF ICE SCREWS

RESISTANCE TO HAMMERING OF ICE PITONS The is positioned in F = 120 N the ice block at a 90°-angle.

10 kg The ice piton is positioned at This ice screw is positioned at a 90° angle to the test ice the centre of the axle of the block. retaining device. The screw is then screwed at

mind. 375 mm mind. 375 A vertical force hits the ice pi- constant pressure of 120 N ton on the head (first impact into the ice block. from 375 mm, then increasing In the 11th rotation the penet- in distance) until the piton is ration depth should match the flush with the ice. In this test, thread gradient. Normeis the ice piton must be placed 100 times. No cracks or deformation in the ice piton are permitted and the head must also re- main undamaged. INFORMATION SUPPLIED

1. HOLDING FORCE IN ICE The following compulsory information is supplied by the manufac- turer on the product: Radial force - Name of manufacturer; A 10-mm steel rod is place in - Model designation; the clip-hole. - Reference to user manual; A load is parallel to the ice - CE mark with 4-digit identification number.

90° block, until either the ice piton shears off or is pulled out of For additional information, see either the labelling or the user the ice block. manual. The ice anchor must be able to withstand a force of 10 kN F ≥10 kN without shearing off or ripping out.

Source: EN 568:2007. Bergsteigerausrüstung. Verankerungsmittel im Eis. Sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und Prüfverfahren. copyright by EDELRID 15