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Home , Gujarati cuisine

0 EDIBLE HUDSON VALLEY 30 WINTER 8 10 E. Main PawlingSt., E. 10 pawlingbreadco.com• PawlingCo.Bread @pawlingbreadco someaningful.” is Ilove that that and something I’m doing And people. help to able am I like feel I , make I “When home,”says. she year. next to open set early is Pawling tion in loca- brick-and-mortar A minutes. 30 within out sell buns cinnamon and brioche croissants, loaves, sourdough her Nowadays Market. Farmers’ ing her at goods the Pawl-selling started and Kinahan another to led flour of bag One obsessed. became —she its especially , American of she left. after even Kinahan, with stayed community her with sharing and Theshespent years service. each after meals served cousins 40 her and she as childhood, freely. to observe Malaysia to immigrated They was prevented family from that practicing religion. War(1937–45), Sino-Japanese Second Kinahan’s the during China occupied Japan Taoism.When in based religion a of branch new a conceived ancestors Kinahan’s of one China, in mountain a on meditating while history, family’s her to According deep. run values those still, : and It’s . ever!” street food somegreat of best the a for out go can you drinking of night long a ter af- You11pm!Malaysia, after In food couldn’t get I a shock. forexperienced huge gan college, culture Michi- to immigrated I After we’reeating. while ‘We’re laughs. about meal nextthe alwaystalking croissants. one of her black–sesame-stuffed craving is Co. Bread Pawling of owner the cause I BOUND BYBREAD “I wanted to re-create the temple in my new my in temple the re-create to wanted “I allure the discovered Kinahan college, After Kinahan’s to central became temple That community in immersed up grew Kinahan she lot,” a food about think “Malaysians after the dishes are done. And that’s not be- that’s not And done. are dishes the after moments about thinking be will she Kinahan, Cynthia f you with have dinner CYNTHIA KINAHAN BAKER/OWNER PawlingCo.Bread —Colleen Stewart —Colleen

PHOTO: B. A. VAN SISE WE ARE IMMIGRANTS of the HUDSON VALLEY the EDIBLEWESTCHESTER AASAPAWLING MALAYSIA WINTER 8 31 2 EDIBLE HUDSON VALLEY 32 BEACON PALESTINE WINTER 8

PHOTOS: MAX KELLY them know they’re know them not alone.” to play together, “Weeat homes. families’ into going often tion, larger location in Beacon, Jamal will have a home for his efforts. have home efforts. a for his will Jamal Beacon, location in larger Easter Middle his moving in And culture. Eastern Middle about community Pal of pieces these use to aims Jamal trip. recent most his from Jamal’s favorite Palestinian dessert, dessert, favorite Palestinian Jamal’s allow ovens, clay feature also will The dancers. belly That is more rewarding than all of the money in the thein world.” of money all than is more That rewarding we do and who we bring with us is what matters. Owning my restau temporis [life] “This goal. spiritual neverhis empirewas culinary throu kitchen the into Westchester;back way in his hefound settled and kitchen. Upkitchen. now,until hekitchens alread with restaurants bought T Angelina’s &Brew Pizza •@angelinascoldspring •43Chestnut St.,Cold Spring •angelinascoldspring.com Jamal returns with recipes, and cultural goods lik goods cultural and spices recipes, with returns Jamal Opening this spring, Ziatun’s new Main Street locale will host Middle Ea Middle host will locale Street Main Ziatun’s new spring, this Opening Jamal, who was born in the kitchen of a Palestinian refugee camp, imm camp, refugee Palestinian a of kitchen the in born was who Jamal, Each year, Jamal returns to build for Palestinians in ne in Palestinians for kitchens build to returns Jamal year, Each But the most fulfilling part of this expansion for Ja for expansion this of part fulfilling most the But Beacon Bread CompanyBread Beacon @beaconbreadcompany• beaconbread.com• Main193 • Beacon St., wouldn’t be the leader he is without kitchens. wouldn’t without he kitchens. is leader the be A and Beacon) in (all TitoSantana and Company, Végétalien Bread he wouldn’tkitchen—a restaurant without Jama it. exist Kamel And Tito@titosantanabeacon• Santana tacosantana.com• Main142 • Beacon St., Végétalien •@végétalien •504Main Ziatun@ziatun_beacon• ziatun.com• Main244 • Beacon St., /RESTAURATEUR THE WAY HOME kanafeh, KAMEL JAMAL a -like, cheese-filled soaked in sweet syrup. sweet in soaked dough cheese-filled apasta-like, Ziatun mal? This will be his first time to design his own own his design to time first his be will This mal? St., Beacon • vegetalienlife.com• Beacon St., ing Jamal’s team to bake pita as well as as well as pita bake to team Jamal’s ing ary, we are all here short term. And what what And term. here short all are we ary, y intact. Now he’ll build one build Nowy of intact. own. he’ll his e the oud—a stringed instrument— stringed oud—a the e estine to educate the Hudson Valley Hudson the educate to estine gether and cry together. And we let we And together. cry and gether rants allows me to employ 60 people. ed; he offers support and inspira- and support offers he ed; gh his restaurants. But building a a Butbuilding restaurants. his gh igrated to the United States States United the to igrated l, owner of Ziatun, Beacon l, owner Beacon of Ziatun, n restaurant, Ziatun, to a to Ziatun, restaurant, n ngelina’s in Cold Spring, Spring, Cold in ngelina’s EDIBLEWESTCHESTER stern entertainment like like entertainment stern —Colleen Stewart —Colleen WINTER 8 33 EL SALVADOR COLUMBIA COUNTY

B2B, A LOVE STORY

MARIA ROMERO ENTREPRENEUR

aria Romero—a matriarch, a mother, a chef—came into M our lives one fated day in 2015. We had just started Table Table Catering, our first venture together, and, in our new- bie bravado, we had agreed to create a taco bar for our first wedding clients. We knew we needed help making the tortillas, and, walking down Hudson’s 8th St. in a puff of stress, we saw Maria selling pupusas from a little stand in her yard. Although we knew tortillas and pupu- sas are completely different animals, we decided to stop and eat—and ask for some help. Maria delivered. She not only agreed to help us, but she also sent her daughter, Sonia, to work with us during the wedding. So was born a relationship of mutual collaboration and support. When we opened Lil’ Deb’s a year later, Maria ran a weekly pop-up in our space. Maria’s older daughters and sons were our backbones— and some still are—helping us to prep, wash dishes and basically keep the restaurant alive. Maria’s family became our family; we still share birthday parties, weddings, meals, moments of loss and moments of pure joy. Maria plans to open her own restaurant in Columbia County in a few weeks. It’s a pupuseria that serves from Maria’s homeland, El Salvador. We’ve supported her through the long to-do lists that every restaurant owner knows well: navigating health department forms, setting up a tax ID, designing the menu and tending to the other minutiae including painting the countertops. None of it is easy and, just like us, Maria has no investors. However, as Maria helped us, we help her—tapping into a support network made up of friends who’ve become family. This is an extension of our work in sharing food, nourishment and—most important—community. —Carla Perez-Gallardo & Hannah Black Lil’ Deb’s Oasis, Hudson PHOTO: DAMON JACOBY DAMON PHOTO:

34 EDIBLE HUDSON VALLEY WINTER 8 EDIBLE WESTCHESTER WINTER 8 35 PUEBLA, MEXICO YONKERS

GOAT: IT’S WHAT’S FOR BREAKFAST

ALFONSO ALVAREZ RESTAURATEUR Tacos El Poblano

here are a few key culinary commandments that I live by. For example, if a Mexican T restaurant doesn’t serve goat, I don’t eat there. Barbacoa de chivo, slow cooked and dripping in broth, is a powerhouse protein source that is as low in saturated fat as it is high in succulent glory. I have about as much use for a Mexican restaurant that doesn’t serve goat as I do for friends who make pained faces when I order it for breakfast. When any restaurant boasts that it serves breakfast all day, I assume it is to satisfy the syrup-drenched waffle crowd, rather than us who hail from the House of Scrapple. My line of questioning for any breakfast joint of interest is usually: “OK … but do you serve dinner all day as well?” As a savory breakfaster living in unsavory times, Tacos El Poblano in Yonkers is my destination for Saturday-morning benediction. Since being opened by Alfonso Alvarez (a native of Puebla, Mexico) in 1990, Tacos El Poblano has provided spicy breakfast options for under $10. Alfonso is a familiar face in the neighborhood. On the same block as Tacos El Poblano, he owns Pollo Poblano, a roast chicken and smoothie joint, as well as Dos Marias, a date-night spot. Breakfasting at Tacos El Poblano yields access to a condiment bar replete with smoky and fiery salsas, radishes, limes and jalapeño pickles. You can order the mellow huevos rancheros or the house made tamales and still smother your breakfast in vinegary fire, and—if you’re like me—upgrade it with tender morning goat. Immigrant-run restaurants like Tacos el Poblano are American treasures that keep our country’s food options diverse. I have never understood the attraction of driving from a gated community to a strip mall restaurant where every person looks the same, believes the same and eats the same. After all, isn’t that what hell is like? Eat goat and God bless America! —Justin Fornal Explorer, Writer, Filmmaker, Television Producer

Tacos el Poblano • @tacosel_poblano • 122 Nepperhan Ave., Yonkers • tacoselpoblano2.com Dos Marias • @dosmarias.ny • 200 New Main Street, Yonkers • DosMariasNy.com Pollo Poblano • 204 New Main St., Yonkers • 914.20.1601 PHOTOS: B. A. VAN SISE VAN A. B. PHOTOS:

36 EDIBLE HUDSON VALLEY WINTER 8 EDIBLE WESTCHESTER WINTER 8 37 INDIA IRVINGTON THE NORTH

Perhaps the most prevalent cuisine found outside of India, Northern dishes are characterized by their BEYOND : focus on dairy: milk, paneer, . or paneer makhani are common vegetarian dishes, consisting ORIENTING AROUND INDIA of dal or paneer cooked in a creamy of tomatoes, , mango powder and garam masala. Paneer and are similar dishes made Indian food is the reflection of the heritage of its people. It with spinach, cream and paneer, differing slightly in represents history, religious beliefs, cultural practices and, spices. , another staple from Northern India, above all, geographic attributes. It is an amalgamation of the is a creamy curry of milk, , of many regions, but what unites them under the and . heading of “Indian food” is the ingenious way fragrant herbs —fried pastries stuffed with potatoes and aromatic spices are used. and occasionally meat—are a distinctive Northern —Chef Navjot Arora snack. (clay ovens) are also used in the Masala Bistro North, giving dishes like their distinctive charcoal flavor. THE WEST

Western is distinguished by the geographic and historical particulars of its three regions: Maharashtra, and Goa. Maharashtra’s coastal THE SOUTH location yields a fish- and coconut milk–dominant cuisine. Gujarati cuisine is mostly vegetarian and has an Southern Indian cuisine is not typically underlying sweetness due to Chinese influences. found on Indian restaurant menus in the Goa was a trade port for Portugal, resulting in U.S. and differs greatly from the foods its blend of Indian and . Goan of other regions. Poriyals are dry cuisine uses pork and beef with greater frequency than consisting of a variety of and other regional cuisines in India and vinegar (another spices, while sambars are - Portuguese contribution) is common. , an flavored that are more Indian restaurant mainstay, is derived from Vinho watery than curries from elsewhere. d’Alho, the Portuguese marinade of garlic, wine, Aside from these, Southern Indian vinegar and chilies. cuisine is known for its snacks. are crepe-like pancakes usually filled with vegetables, chutneys or masala cur- ries. Pappadoms, the crispy rice cracker commonly spiced with - THE EAST corns, is also from the South.

Eastern Indian cuisine is known for its desserts. These are enjoyed all over India and are frequently found at Indian restaurants in the U.S.; their light sweetness makes an excellent finale to a meal. Dishes of the East are also more lightly spiced than those of other regions, and favor mustard and poppy seeds, and mustard oil.

Sambal • @sambal_restaurant • 4 W. Main St., Irvington • sambalny.com

Old Monk • @oldmonknyc • 175 Avenue B, Manhattan •oldmonknyc.com BLAU PATTI ILLUSTRATION: Chutney Masala Indian Bistro • @chutneymasala • 76 Main St., Irvington • chutneymasala.com

38 EDIBLE HUDSON VALLEY WINTER 8 EDIBLE WESTCHESTER WINTER 8 39 ISRAEL SULLIVAN COUNTY FOUNDING FOIE-THER

IZZY YANAY CO-FOUNDER Hudson Valley Foie Gras

oie gras: a food as quintessentially French as a baguette or F brie, right? Well … think again. The French are still the greatest consumers of foie, but the cultivation of the luscious lobe has roots in many cultures. There are ancient hieroglyphs of geese being fattened in Egypt; in ancient Rome, foie gras was served at meals eaten in the first century CE. Among ancient civilizations, the traditions of foie gras were preserved through Jewish populations—in Egypt, these were slaves. This makes sense: other than olive oil, the fat of poultry was one the few permitted under kosher dietary laws. Through the Middle Ages and into the Renaissance, European Jews preserved the techniques of making foie gras. In the U.S., one farm in Sullivan County provides the vast majority of foie gras to American restaurants. Chefs including David Chang and Thomas Keller are its customers. But the partners behind Hudson Valley Foie Gras, Izzy Yanay and Michael Ginor—who won James Beard Foundation lifetime achievement awards for their work—never planned to make the Hudson Valley their base. In Israel, in the very year of its founding (1948), the foie gras industry was established by a Holocaust survivor and third- generation goose farmer, Moshe Friedman. In the 1980s, when Yanay was farming poultry in Israel, he found that Mulard ducks (a hybrid of Pekin and Muscovy ducks) yielded excellent foie gras. Yanay saw a business. “I wanted to do it myself, in Israel, but I couldn’t find anyone who was interested,” he says. Nothing came through until an American entrepreneur decided to take a risk on the plan. “He took me to Sullivan County, which I didn’t even know existed, and he showed me a huge chicken farm. We renovated, and went into it completely from scratch.” Once they got the production going, there were challenges. No one had offered fresh foie gras to Americans before. “In the begin- ning, no one wanted to buy the liver. It was something you fed to pets—for $40 a pound! But then Ariane came along and she brought enthusiastic about their project—so enthusiastic that I left my job Luxury Lobes. the message to the restaurants. Without her, we probably would have and set up D’Artagnan.” Until Izzy Yanay and Michael Ginor closed the shop.” Was she skeptical about bringing American foie gras to chefs? founded Hudson Valley Foie Gras in The Ariane in question is Ariane Daguin, founder, owner “No, because they produce foie gras the right way.” And introducing Sullivan County, fresh foie gras was and CEO of the legendary food company, D’Artagnan. this ingredient to chefs brought her back home. “Coming from Gas- virtually unknown in the U.S. She is passionate about Hudson Valley Foie Gras. Daguin is also cony where foie gras is a specialty, I just had to be in this business.” an immigrant: She was born in Gascony, the French mecca of foie “This was the first fresh foie gras in America. It was historic.” gras, and had a chef for a father; she could debone a duck by age 10. —Rachael Shapiro Daguin knows her foie. Working part-time during college in New York for a food Hudson Valley Foie Gras • @hudsonvalleyfoiegras

PHOTOS: LEFT, ANDRE BARANOWSKI; RIGHT, MAX KELLY RIGHT, ANDRE BARANOWSKI; LEFT, PHOTOS: distribution company, Daguin met Yanay and Ginor. “I got very hudsonvalleyfoiegras.com

40 EDIBLE HUDSON VALLEY WINTER 8 EDIBLE WESTCHESTER WINTER 8 41 EGYPT & PAKISTAN FRANKLIN MEXICO HUDSON VALLEY

SANCTUARY!

WE STAND WITH THE CCSM

n October 2016, concerned promoting the Green Light NY campaign to persuade NYS legislators to change the rule I members of the local immigrant barring undocumented residents from earning driver’s licenses. community and their allies A portion of the proceeds of this Immigrant Issue will be given to the Columbia County organized the Columbia County Sanctuary Movement. In addition, many of our contributors have forgone their fees; these will Sanctuary Movement (CCSM) with also donated to CCSM. We are asking that you consider CCSM this gift-giving season. Their a mission to support, empower and work helps to keep Hudson Valley farm-raised food on our tables. defend residents without regard for —Julia Sexton immigration status. CCSM arranges free legal representation, offers legal clinics and operates an emergency call line. It runs Know Your Rights workshops and, on its website, details how to protect yourself if federal Immigration and Customs Enforcement (ICE) agents show up to your work or home. The people served by CCSM are primarily Mexican agricultural workers without whose labor many of our farms would fail. CCSM is part of a nationwide im- SHARING THE LOVE migrant rights movement in which many state and local governments have HASAN SIDDIQI & NOUR ABOUHAIB challenged the right of ICE to seize and deport undocumented residents living MANAGER & BAKER within their borders. Several Hudson Valley municipalities have declared The Tulip & The Rose Café themselves refuges: Hudson, Kingston, he Catskills have been a retreat, both physical and spiri- beef salad or lush Congolese chicken moambe enriched with - Newburgh, Beacon, New Paltz, Pough- T tual, in varied forms ranging from summer resorts and butter and hatch chilis. Many of its dishes can be made vegan. keepsie, to name a few. In Westchester, communes to modern Buddhist retreats. One of the new- The café’s popularity owes much to general manager Hasan the County Board of Legislators passed er, lesser known communities is the Sufi Muslim spiritual retreat Siddiqi, who greets guests at the door like family. Hasan, whose a sweeping sanctuary bill, the Immi- center, or Dergah [“portal of wisdom” in Persian], in Sidney. family is from Pakistan, makes frequent trips to the markets grant Protection Act; County Executive Hoping to bond with the community through food and cul- of New York City and is devoted to sourcing produce from nearby George Latimer signed it into law. ture, Dergah members created The Tulip & The Rose café. The café farms. The café uses local artisans for bread and hand-blended teas. But while ICE is being held off in is guided by adab, a Sufi principle of manners which extends beyond Last May, Hasan married the lovely Nour Abouhaib (original- some municipalities, the undocumented basic etiquette to all-encompassing hospitality. Adab, a gathering of ly from Egypt), the founder of Nour Cakes, which provides deli- residents of our region still face serious people and food, is a manifestation of generosity and love. cious baked goods to the café and caters local events. The two are a threats. Something as trivial as a traffic Located a few miles from the Dergah in Franklin, TheTulip & great team, both in life and work. infraction could get them deported. The Rose opened its doors in 2014. It’s staffed with both local resi- —Nini Ordoubadi And, because undocumented residents dents and immigrants from the Dergah and combines local ingre- Tay , Delhi are prevented from obtaining driver’s dients with exotic spices to create community in the spirit of adab. licenses in New York State (unlike 12 The café has earned acclaim through inventive and ever-chang- The Tulip & The Rose • @tulipandtherose • 435 Main St., other states, including Connecticut), Columbia County Sanctuary Movement • SanctuaryColumbiaCounty.org ILLUSTRATION: AIDAN KNOWLES AIDAN ILLUSTRATION: ing international cuisine. Diners might find Spanish tapas, Thai Franklin • TheTulipAndTheRose.com DIANA BLAIN FINE PHOTO: many drive illegally. CCSM is

42 EDIBLE HUDSON VALLEY WINTER 8 EDIBLE WESTCHESTER WINTER 8 43