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Producing Melbourne's Farmers' Markets

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Producing Melbourne's Farmers' Markets Producing Melbourne’s Farmers’ Markets Local Food, Farming and ‘Feel-Good’ Shopping Submitted in total fulfilment of the requirements of the degree of Doctor of Philosophy Kim Neylon Social Anthropology School of Social and Political Sciences University of Melbourne June 2015 Supervisor: Associate Professor Tamara Kohn Producing Melbourne’s Farmers’ Markets I declare that the following document meets all the necessary criteria to be assessed as a PhD Thesis undertaken in the School of Social and Political Sciences at the University of Melbourne. This is to certify that: i) The thesis comprises only my original work towards the degree of Doctor of Philosophy. ii) Due acknowledgement has been made in the text to all other material used. iii) The thesis is fewer than 100,000 words in length, exclusive of the table of contents and figures, footnotes and references. Producing Melbourne’s Farmers’ Markets i Table of Contents Table of Contents ............................................................................................................................................ ii Table of Figures .............................................................................................................................................. vi Acknowledgements ...................................................................................................................................... vii Abstract ........................................................................................................................................................... viii Introduction ..................................................................................................................................................... 1 Why Local Food? ................................................................................................................................. 2 Food and Anthropology ................................................................................................................................ 2 Food and Morality ......................................................................................................................................... 3 Local Food as Good Food .............................................................................................................................. 4 The Rural Idyll................................................................................................................................................ 5 Farmers’ Market Research ............................................................................................................................ 5 Melbourne: Australia’s ‘Foodie’ Destination ...................................................................................... 7 The Urban and the Rural: Australian Farmers and Urban Consumers .......................................................... 8 Melbourne’s Farmers’ Markets ..................................................................................................................... 9 Authenticating Melbourne’s Farmers’ Markets ............................................................................................ 9 Feel-Good Shopping at Melbourne’s Farmers’ Markets .................................................................. 10 Synopsis of Thesis ............................................................................................................................. 11 Chapter One: Situating Melbourne’s Farmers’ Markets ............................................................................................ 12 Chapter Two: Researching the Markets .................................................................................................................... 12 Chapter Three: How Local is Local? ........................................................................................................................... 12 Chapter Four: Who belongs at a Farmers’ Market? .................................................................................................. 13 Chapter Five: The Hard Work of Farming .................................................................................................................. 13 Chapter Six: The Rural Idyll and the Good Life .......................................................................................................... 13 Chapter Seven: (The Limits of) Feel Good Shopping ................................................................................................. 14 Chapter Eight: Values and Value ............................................................................................................................... 14 Conclusion ........................................................................................................................................ 15 Chapter One: Situating Melbourne’s Farmers’ Markets ................................................................. 16 The Global Context ........................................................................................................................... 16 Globalisation and Food Production ............................................................................................................. 17 Grassroots Globalisation ............................................................................................................................. 18 Modern Consumers..................................................................................................................................... 20 The Australian Context ..................................................................................................................... 21 Food Production in Australia ....................................................................................................................... 21 The Rise of Neoliberalism in Australian Agricultural Policies .................................................................................... 22 Producing Melbourne’s Farmers’ Markets ii Alternative Discourses in Australian Agriculture ....................................................................................................... 25 The Agricultural Sector in Victoria .............................................................................................................. 26 Neoliberal Policies, Deregulation and Melbourne’s Farmers’ Markets ..................................................................... 28 The History of Melbourne’s Farmers’ Markets ................................................................................ 29 The Victorian Farmers Market Association ................................................................................................. 32 VFMA Accreditation Program .................................................................................................................................... 33 Farmers Market Funding ........................................................................................................................................... 35 The Impact of Victoria’s Farmers’ Markets ................................................................................................. 36 Conclusion ........................................................................................................................................ 36 Chapter Two: Researching Melbourne’s Farmers’ Markets .......................................................... 37 Situating the Researcher .................................................................................................................. 38 Defining the Field .............................................................................................................................. 41 Researching Melbourne’s Farmers’ Markets ................................................................................... 42 Selecting Fieldsites ...................................................................................................................................... 44 Gatekeepers ................................................................................................................................................ 45 The Victorian Farmers’ Market Association (VFMA) ................................................................................................. 45 Key Farmers’ Market Organisations .......................................................................................................................... 46 Primary Fieldsites ........................................................................................................................................ 47 Fieldsite One: The Melbourne Showground’s Farmers’ Market ............................................................................... 47 Fieldsite Two: Collingwood Children’s Farm Farmers’ Market .................................................................................. 48 Fieldsite Three: Bundoora Farmers’ Market.............................................................................................................. 50 Other Fieldsites ........................................................................................................................................... 52 Researching Farmers’ Market Producers ......................................................................................... 54 Researching Farmers’ Market Customers .......................................................................................
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