Feature

Figure 1. The fierce and protective Tibetan , guardian of homes and yak herds in Mustang and Dolpa (photograph by D. Messerschmidt). TALES OF THE BIG OF MUSTANG AND DOLPA

WORDS ALTON C. BYERS, PH.D.

30 ECS NEPAL | March 2020 | Issue 220 Author’s note: the following story is excerpted from an account I published in Dr. Don Messerschmidt’s 2010 book, “The Big Dogs of and the : A Personal Journey” (Orchid Press, Bangkok). The story was written from field notes and experiences gathered when I was living in the lower Mus- tang (Jomosom/Muktinath) region of Nepal in the early 1980s, working for a large USAID/His Majesty’s Government conservation project. Included here are the stories about the Tibetan mastiffs of Mustang and Dolpa that I heard from a close friend and trekking companion, Chokgya Lama of the Tashiling Ti- betan Camp, Pokhara. The article has been shortened from the original, and updated at the end based on a visit to Pokhara I made in 2019 in search of Chokgya. Special thanks to Don for permission to use sections of the original manuscript for this article, as well as for the use of his beautiful photographs of Tibetan mastiffs. Readers are encouraged to pick up their own copy of “Big Dogs of Tibet and the Himalayas” for a fascinating collection of stories about these little known, but vastly important, friends of the Himalayan high country.

If you mention Mustang or Dolpa The mastiffs of Mustang and treated with deference by their to most people in Nepal, it nearly Dolpa are large dogs, with males owners here, in stark contrast to always elicits excited descrip- often reaching weights of 44 the attitudes toward common vil- tions of the ‘thulo kukur’ or ‘Bho- to 55 kg (100-120 lbs). They lage dogs of the lower hills. té kukur’ (Nepali for ‘big ’ and are characteristically square- ‘Tibetan dog’, respectively) that headed with massive jaws, and In villages, the dogs are chained inhabit these regions. The dogs have long, thick hair, a distinc- during the day, which tends to protect villages at night, guard tive black-and-tan (sometimes encourage viciousness, and let and herd the yak and sheep, all black, or golden) color, with a free to roam the alleys by night, assist their masters in hunting bushy, curling tail. Their pres- which induces fear in all who tom (Tibetan bear), lau (or lawa, ence clearly marks the transi- venture out after dark. They are musk deer) and na (blue sheep). tion from middle hill Nepal to a particularly strong deterrent They also chase away bandits, the Buddhist realms of northern against intruders in the walled and have been used in warfare, Nepal and Tibet, as one treks villages of upper Mustang, from possibly for thousands of years. northward through the moun- Kagbeni north to Lo-Manthang, They are most often described as tains along ancient trade routes. and in Tibet, where escape “fierce and dangerous” animals One sees smaller, apparent routes are practically non-exis- that “will attack any stranger cross-breeds at the transition tent and all doors are firmly bolt- coming near.” This is the Ti- points in lower elevation towns ed at nightfall. Tibetan mastiffs betan mastiff--a powerful and and villages, and larger, more (and related dogs of mixed breed) practically fearless breed of dog, purebred mastiffs further north also discourage any unnecessary highly prized by the people of at higher elevations. Because wanderings in the more dis- northern Nepal and cautiously of their great importance in the persed villages of lower Mustang respected by all others. pastoral economy, mastiffs are in the Thak Khola region, from Kagbeni south to Ghasa (Fig- ures 3 and 4). For example, in the 1980s while I was working on a conservation project in the administrative center of Mus- tang District at Jomsom in Thak Khola (the valley of Thak), many a jolly late-night session eat- ing momos and drinking raksi with my Nepalese colleagues in the local Thakali lodges was cut short by the knowledge that the Figure 2. Mastiffs are mastiffs kept in the nearby Nepal often chained during Army camp would be unchained the day, which some at 10:00 pm. The dogs effectively think can lead to their enforced this informal night cur- aggressive behavior few, as by 9:45 we were all safely towards strangers (photograph by home. D. Messerschmidt).

Issue 220 | March 2020 | ECS NEPAL 31 Figure 3. Location of Dolpa and Mustang within the Nepal Himalaya (see Figure 4 for detail of the blocked area).

Even during the day, the mastiff guard dogs are a source of concern to most travelers. The naturalist and travel writer, Peter Matthiessen, in describing his search for the elusive in Dolpa in the 1970s, observed that the dogs are “so fierce that Tibetan travelers carry a charm portraying a savage dog fettered in chain; the chain is clasped by the mystical ‘thunderbolt’, or dorje, and an inscription reads, ‘the mouth of the blue dog is bound beforehand’.” Matthiessen then mentions a rather typical account of his and naturalist companion George Schaller’s efforts at thwarting one such “blue dog” attack, and for the rest of their journey through Dolpa he writes, “I never walked without my stave again.”

Mastiffs have also traditionally been used as guard dogs for the many yak and sheep herds of Dolpa and Mustang. Yaks are usually grazed in the high Figure 4. Eastern Dolpa and Mustang District pastures over 3,675 m (12,000 ft) in the pre-road 1980s. above the villages. , bears, lynxes, jackals and both spotted and snow leopards inhabit many of these remote regions, and the

32 ECS NEPAL | March 2020 | Issue 220 Figure 5. Thinigaon, overlooking the Jomsom airstrip, in the pre-road, pre-electricity days of the early 1980s (photograph by A. Byers). mastiffs play critical roles in stayed in the goth (pastures) for leading the herd when we the protection and herding of herding yaks where his only changed pastures, and one for yaks, and as companions to the companions were two large guarding. The first would always isolated yak herders. dogs. “In Dolpa,” Chokgya said, be at the head of the herd, and “it is very difficult to see other the second would stay behind to Chokgya Lama’s dogs: Much people because the region is so bring in the stray yaks and also of my information concerning remote, and people so few. Once to protect them.” mastiffs in Dolpa was obtained I was in the pastures for four from Chokgyel Lama (‘Chokgya’ or five months and never saw Chokgya claims that the lead for short), a former yak herder another man. During this time dogs actually guide the herd to from a village near Tarakot who the dogs were very good friends new pastures. I have not seen later moved to the Tashiling and were especially useful this, but have witnessed the dogs Tibetan refugee community at animals, especially for protecting participating in the rounding up Pokhara, in Nepal’s middle-hills. yaks. I would feed them tsampa of stray yaks during the hours Over the years, Chokgya and I (ground, roasted barley) and of dusk when they are brought trekked and worked together water curd (buttermilk), and into the camp area for the night. throughout lower Mustang and from time-to-time would feed The herdsman’s yak-hair sling what is now the Annapurna them meat.” (shakpo pumba), however, seems Conservation Areas, and he to be more useful than the dogs was a storehouse of practical Tsampa, butter and churpi for bringing in the yaks. The information regarding life in (hard cheese) are the staples of gothalo (herder) expertly lobs the mountains. He was born in most Tibetan people, and yak a large stone in the general Dolpa around 1940, and until herders will carry up supplies direction of the truant yak, which he was 20 years old he tended of tsampa, cheese and spices induces it to start towards the the family yaks, ploughed his to the pastures. They are also camp. The dogs will then finish brother’s fields, cut firewood and entitled to eat all they wish of the job by running behind the accompanied his brothers on the milk and milk-products yaks and herding them back trading excursions to Jumla in from the herds they tend, in to camp. “Sheep and yaks far western Nepal, and to Tibet. addition to the meat of a winter- will listen to a dog,” Chokgya His appreciation and respect or predator-killed yak -- thus continued. “When he barks or for the hard-working mastiffs the “time-to-time” schedule gives a warning they will come frequently surfaced in accounts of feeding meat to the dogs. together. At night they know the of his early years in Dolpa. For For Chokgya, the best friend dogs will protect them.” example, Chokgya told me that of the yak herder was a good from the time he was 12 he dog. “I had two,” he said, “one

Issue 220 | March 2020 | ECS NEPAL 33 One of Chokgya’s more intriguing is the small one, and the other them. There are many hunting stories concerning his mastiffs the big one. The big one is not dogs in Dolpa, male and female. involves an encounter with a so good for hunting. The big The females are much faster and mithé (‘jungle man’, another dog is good for guarding yak better than the male dogs. In Dolpa name for the yeti) when he was and sheep.” The hunting dog, it is the poor people who mostly go 15 years old. During the early the smaller one, locally called hunting; the rich don’t go because hours of a foggy morning, the Sheuke (Tibetan Sha-kyi), is they have yak and sheep to eat.” dogs began to bark and run colored black and white, and a around the camp, whereupon good one could cost a thousand Chokgya and I spent many months the yaks began to group together rupees in the early 1980s. I’ve together in the yak pastures of in a protective circle. The dogs since learned that there are lower Mustang over a period of appeared to be crazed with actually five distinct breeds ten years (during the 1970s and both fear and anger. Shortly of Tibetan dogs recognized 1980s), and had ample occasion afterwards Chokgya heard the by international breeders that to meet many Tibetan mastiffs. distinctive, high-pitched “che- include the Kyi Apso, or “Tibetan Some, as in the yak pasture above che-che” -- the whiney cry of Bearded Dog” (a herding and the village of Marpha in Thak the mithé -- and he remembers village guard dog, but with a Khola, were nothing less than a “very bad smell.” A large friendly disposition compared to vicious upon seeing intruders man-like image did appear the mastiff), the (a such as ourselves. Chokgya’s momentarily out of the fog, which small house dog), Tibetan Mastiff skill with the braided yak-hair Chokgya fired at with his old (of interest here), Tibetan sling was greatly appreciated at muzzle-loader. The dogs took (another small house dog), and these times. On another occasion, off in pursuit of the creature, the Tibetan , in addition while climbing in the Annapurna but returned a short while later, to the Sha-kyi hunting dogs that Sanctuary in the early 1980s, exhausted. Chokgya found a pool Chokgya used. I witnessed a young Sherpani of “very black blood” nearby a porter from another expedition stream where the creature was “In Dolpa we used to go hunting being severely bitten in the leg seen. I’ve found that such stories with the help of the dogs.” for straying too close to a herd. are common throughout much Chokgya said. “The dogs would Some dogs we met were quite of the Himalaya, and remain a chase the lau (musk deer) and timid, and were kept more for mystery in terms of what the na (blue sheep) through the sounding alarms than for attack mithé may or may not be. mountains, sometimes into purposes. By and large, they had traps, and sometimes until the characteristic black-and- “There are two types of dogs in the deer were so tired that we tan markings, although several Dolpa,” Chokgya continued. “One could simply walk up and shoot golden mastiffs were seen, as

Figure 7. The braided yak hair sling is not only a valuable weapon and deterrent against unfriendly dogs and predators, it is also used by yak herders to manage the movements of yaks. Generally all that is needed is a gentle lob of a stone Figure 6. The author (left) and Chokgya (right) to send a yak in the herder’s preferred direction of travel ca. 1981, high in a yak pasture above the Kali (photograph by A. Byers). Gandaki river (photographer unknown).

34 ECS NEPAL | March 2020 | Issue 220 well as much smaller dogs the economic survival of the local (the size of Tibetan people. By comparison with other and Lhasa Apsos), probably regions of Nepal, food, fuel, water kept more for company than and arable land are very scarce for work. Regardless of their here, and roving bands of brigands temperament, all were treated are still somewhat common. Those with a quiet affection and resources that do exist must be respect by their owners. zealously guarded and protected- -functions performed well for Tukché and Lete are villages countless centuries by Tibetan in Thak Khola known for their mastiffs. superior mastiffs. There, a healthy male puppy, the pick Postscript: Pokhara, January 2019: of the litter, sold in the early When my contract finished in 1982 1980s for around 250 rupees, and I left the Kali Gandaki region for and considerably more to graduate studies in the US, little did foreigners along this popular I know that I was to spend a lifetime Figure 8. Tibetan mastiff at rest trekking route. (Rs. 250 was exploring and researching a (photograph by D. Messerschmidt). approximately $10.00, a number of Nepal’s other Himalayan considerable sum at that time; treasures, such as the Khumbu, for some nomads, a prize Makalu-Barun, and Kanchenjunga young people, and thriving Tibetan mastiff was considered regions, among others. But for all businesses as opposed to the fairly to be equal in value to a full this time in Nepal I never returned destitute look I encountered in the grown yak, or a good horse.) The to Pokhara until January of 2019, 1970s and 1980s. And for some walled town of Lo-Manthang, some 37 years later, to look for reason I thought that Chokgya the former capital of Mustang, Chokgya. I knew that his home would still be there. But when I about three days walk north of had been in the Tashiling Tibetan started asking around I was told Jomsom, is also famous for its Refugee Camp with his wife and that no, both Chokgya and his wife mastiffs. The large, ‘pure dogs’ young son, Kongma, in a small row had passed away. When I asked bred there, especially those house made of whitewashed mud when, nobody really knew, except belonging to the family of the and stones. that “it was a long long time ago.” former Raja of Mustang, are I did meet his son, Kongma, now highly prized, and the people Needless to say, a lot had changed a middle aged man, but he didn’t of Thak Khola, and even of in Pokhara since the early 1980s. remember me. Kathmandu, frequently make Much of the snow and ice of the arrangements with traders to Annapurnas was gone, and the Things have changed for the deliver puppies to them. range itself was usually obscured Tibetan mastiff as well. These days by the dust and smoke of the there is less reliance on animal As noted, the mastiffs’ Asian Brown Cloud. Ultralights husbandry as a way of life in Dolpa viciousness is probably more a and paragliders buzzed noisily and Mustang than there used to be, result of how they are kept and overhead every morning, and the partly because of labor shortages of their conditioning. As with once sleepy little town was now caused by outmigration to the any breed of dog, ferocity comes one of Nepal’s larger cities. The Middle East, and partly because from being tied up throughout lakeside lodges and outdoor cafes Nepal is changing in ways we the day while strangers pass by, that I used to stay at, catching the could hardly have imagined back or from living in remote places flight to Jomsom the next morning, in the 1980s. The yak herds and combined with their innate had been replaced with wall to wall the mastiffs that guard them are territorial instincts for which restaurants, amusement parks, still there in the high pastures, these dogs are so well known. and endless curio shops. But the but their numbers are dwindling, Certain dogs kept only as pets, food was much better than that of mostly because of a decreased however, are quite affable and the 1980s, and even the pies and demand for livestock products appear to be excellent (although cakes that had drawn many a hippy such as cheese, milk, hair, and somewhat aloof) additions to the overlander to the place during the hides. large and busy households of 1960s and 1970s had improved. the mountain people. But I still wouldn’t recommend The Tashiling Camp had changed a walk through the streets of a The big dogs of Mustang and as well, now with modern streets, remote village in Dolpa or Mustang Dolpa play integral roles in homes, outdoor cafes filled with late at night.

Issue 220 | March 2020 | ECS NEPAL 35 Suggested Reading Messerschmidt, D. 2010. Big dogs of Tibet and the Himalayas: a personal journey. Bangkok: Orchid Press. Rohrer, A. and Flamholtz 1989. The Tibetan mastiff: legendary guardian of the Himalayas. Centreville, AL: OTR Publications. Taylor, D. 1993. Meet the rare mountain dog of Tibet. Dog World. November, 1993

Mountain geographer Alton C. Byers, Ph.D. is a Senior Research Associate and Faculty at the In- stitute for Arctic and Alpine Research (INSTAAR), University of Colorado at Boulder; Explorer and Grantee of the National Geographic Society; and a Senior Fellow at The Mountain Institute.

Figure 9. Chokgya (left) and the author (right) in 1973, Kali Gandaki valley, Mustang District.

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