BIRDING OUT OF : a taste of Africa

ndia is a vast, sprawling country, teeming with people, but it also supports more than 1 200 bird species. Most birders visiting India for the first time do a Inorthern loop, centred on Bharatpur and the Himalayan foothills (see Nick Garbutt’s article in volume 9, number 4). While this offers a good cross-section of Indian birds, as well as the chance to chase tigers, African birders might consider cutting their teeth in the state of Gujarat, which has more in common with this than the rest of India. Peter Ryan reports on some of the ’s birding attractions.

TEXT & PHOTOGRAPHS BY PETER RYAN

58 birding india AFRICA – BIRDS & BIRDING irthplace of Mahatma Gandhi, for viewing and photography. Indeed, I india Gujarat lies north of Mumbai on frequently found myself comparing it to India’s north-west coast. At Ethiopia in this regard. The Jainist tradi- Great Rann Gujarat some 196 000 square kilometres, tion of jiv daya is similar to that of ubuntu, of Kutch State itB is half the size of Zimbabwe, yet com- but extends to wildlife as well as people. Little Rann prises only five per cent of India’s land Birds and other wildlife are part of local of Kutch Ahmedabad area. It offers a wide range of habitats, culture, and Gujaratis take pleasure in Jamnagar Velavadar NP from verdant woodland in the southern sharing their land with thousands of mi- Porbandar hill country, where the annual rainfall grant birds. I enjoyed watching a large Sasan exceeds 2 000 millimetres, through the flock of birds feed on a seed crop while Gir NP dry woodlands of Gir National Park, to the farmer stood by, waiting to harvest. Gulf of the Banni grasslands and saltplains of Migrant Black-headed and Red-headed Khambhat the Great on the Pakistan buntings were common, as were House border. Incorporating almost a third of Sparrows from Tibet and a smattering of India’s coastline, Gujarat has a wealth of Common Rosefinches. mangroves, reefs and mudflats, and there Much of the flat ground is cultivated, india are some 2 000 square kilometres of fresh­ but these fields still support many birds, water wetlands, so waterbirds are well including vast flocks of Rosy Starlings, represented. The state boasts a bird list of while Rose-ringed Parakeets, Little Green more than 500 species, including several Bee-eaters, White-breasted Kingfishers and that are hard to find anywhere else. Common Peafowl add splashes of colour. There is plenty of good birding close to The Jainist tradition of jiv daya is similar to that of Ahmedabad. Thol Lake Bird Sanctuary has a few Bar-headed Geese among the large ubuntu, but extends to wildlife as well as people ... numbers of Greylag Geese, and a nearby and Gujaratis take pleasure in sharing their land dump for dead livestock is worth checking for some of India’s few remaining vultures. with thousands of migrant birds Egyptian Vultures are quite common, but the larger vultures are very rare. Only Like most of India, Gujarat is densely two White-rumped Vultures were present populated. Ahmedabad, the largest city, when I visited, although other species turn is home to seven million people and the up from time to time. The unprecedented state as a whole supports around 50 mil- collapse of the once-vast vulture popula- Gujarat lies on the South Asian flyway. Above Visitors to the Global Bird lion. They seldom eat meat or fish, so tions has seen a concomitant increase in Although a few species such as Bar-headed Watchers’ Conference bird along the there is little evidence of hunting. As a other scavengers, particularly feral dogs, Geese and Demoiselle Cranes fly over the dykes in Khijadiya, near Jamnagar. result, many birds are remarkably habitu- which are now estimated to number more , most migrants eschew cross- ated, allowing exceptional opportunities than two million in Ahmedabad alone. ing this formidable barrier. Many pass Left The attractive White-browed Wagtail, west of the mountain massif, funnelling endemic to the , was south to Gujarat. Almost half the birds re- surprisingly scarce. We encountered it only corded regularly in the state are migrants, in Gir National Park. so winter is the best time to visit. Most of the region’s parks are closed during the Opposite The Indian Black Robin, which summer , making a visit then in- resembles a scrub-robin, is common in a advisable, unless you are set on seeing the wide range of habitats. endangered Lesser Florican displaying in late July and August. Gujarat’s grasslands Previous spread, left Gujarat shares are one of the species’ last strongholds, al- many species with the and though even here they are threatened by run-off to prevent it mixing with seawater­ North Africa, including the golden jackal. illegal trapping and habitat loss. from the adjacent tidal mudflats and man- Recent studies suggest that this canid is groves. The result is a wealth of aquatic more closely related to the grey wolf and visited Gujarat in November 2010 birds that favour both fresh- and salt- coyote than other jackal species. to attend the Global Bird Watchers’ water habitats living alongside each other. Conference in Jamnagar, six hours’ The number and diversity of birds is im- Previous spread, right After we had drive west of Ahmedabad on the pressive, with many ducks, herons, ibises waited more than two hours at a carcass GulfI of Kutch. During the meeting there and spoonbills, waders, terns and gulls, as dump, a striking White-rumped Vulture were several outings to Khijadiya, a re- well as various raptors and landbirds, be- finally arrived to feed, only to be seen off markable 600-hectare wetland reserve just ing represented. Among the high-profile by a crowd of House Crows. The collapse of east of Jamnagar. Berms built in 1920 and species are good numbers of Dalmatian India’s vulture population ranks among the extended in 1956 contain the freshwater Pelicans, breeding Black-necked Storks most dramatic wildlife crises ever.

60 birding india AFRICA – BIRDS & BIRDING february/march 2012 birding india 61 drive south-east of Porbandar, Gir National Park is an area of dry forest blanketing low, rolling hills. The lions look pretty much the same as their African cousins, but their habitat is denser and their prey quite differ- Gujarat has 134 sites that sustain at least one per cent of Other good species here include White- ent: axis and sambar deer, antelope tailed Lapwing and both Saunders’s and and wild boar are sufficiently abundant to the global population of one or more waterbird species, Little terns. Steppe Gulls can be studied prevent too much conflict with humans nearby at Porbandar’s old port. and their livestock. Formal access to the re- with nine sites having more than 100 000 waterbirds serve is confined to morning and evening ujarat supports more than guided game-drives, during which you are and large flocks of wintering Common 20 per cent of India’s in- not allowed out of the vehicles (despite the Cranes. You can drive or walk along the dustrial output. Just west of fact that many locals live in the sanctuary, berms, and a series of observation towers Jamnagar, vast oil refineries herding their cows and water buffaloes on allows good views over the area. Gprocess crude oil from local wells and oil foot), so it is also well worth your while to But even outside the reserve waterbirds shipped in from the Arabian Gulf. The explore the woodland around Sasan town, are common – and confiding – on the many refineries stand in stark contrast to the which borders the reserve. rivers and wetlands that dot the landscape. Gulf of Kutch Marine National Park at Although Gir doesn’t have any range- Painted Storks, Spot-billed Ducks and Jamnagar, which protects a large propor- restricted birds, I was lucky to see the classy River Terns go about their business tion of the coast. Star attractions from a scarce White-bellied Minivet and, with a Great Tit bears little resemblance to the Above Like many Indian birds, the large, within metres of busy roads, blithely ig- birding perspective are wintering Indian bit of help from knowledgeable guides, species familiar throughout much of Eur­ richly coloured Rufous-tailed Lark is quite noring even pedestrian traffic. Gujarat has Skimmers, as well as the large numbers of I saw Mottled Wood-Owl, Indian Scops- ope. Overhead, Crested Treeswifts and tolerant of people, allowing it to be 134 sites that sustain at least one per cent Crab Plovers that forage on the tidal flats. Owl, Spotted Owlet and Indian Night- Oriental Honey-Buzzards are common, studied at leisure. of the global population of one or more But the area fosters a host of other coastal jar at their daytime roosts. Woodpeckers there are still good numbers of Change- waterbird species, with nine sites having birds: Lesser Sand Plovers are abundant, are common, ranging from the large and able Hawk-Eagles and there is a chance of Top India has a wealth of starlings Tens of thousands of Demoiselle Cranes more than 100 000 waterbirds. One of the and there are enough Greater Sand and gaudy Black-rumped Flameback to the di- seeing one of the few Red-headed Vultures and mynas. I particularly enjoyed the winter along the coast around Porbandar, most impressive wetlands I visited was Kentish plovers to allow easy comparison. minutive Brown-capped Woodpecker. Mi- to survive the diclofenac débâcle. huge assemblages of Rosy Starlings, but feeding in the surrounding fields and just north of Porbandar, on the Arabian Great Knots and Slender-billed Gulls are grant Greenish and Hume’s leaf-warblers perhaps the most striking species we saw gathering in vast flocks to roost in the Sea coast, where thousands of Demoiselle fairly common, and the adjacent coastal share the canopy with Common Ioras eading north-east from Gir, was the Brahminy Starling, yet another coastal wetlands. Here they run the Cranes gather to drink and roost after feed- flats and pans attract many more species. and White-browed Fantails, while rauc­ another prime attraction is subcontinent endemic. gamut of a seemingly endless line of ing in the adjacent agricultural lands. How For many wildlife enthusiasts, one of ous parties of Jungle Babblers occupy the Velavadar National Park, newly erected wind generators. The long they will continue to do so remains the main reasons to visit Gujarat is to lower strata with Common Woodshrikes, home to the largest popula­ impacts of the structures on the cranes to be seen, as a barrage of wind turbines see the last surviving population of Asian delightful Tawny-bellied Babblers and Htion of blackbuck. It’s a long drive, but haven’t been assessed. has been erected right next to the wetland. lions. Situated inland, about four hours’ Rufous-fronted Prinias. The local form of take the time to stop in the occasional

62 birding india AFRICA – BIRDS & BIRDING february/march 2012 birding india 63 Know before you go everal airlines offer flights to Mumbai or a crowded concourse. And rather than SDelhi, but Emirates has flights from Dubai being pushy, hooting is like saying ‘Excuse to Ahmedabad, which link conveniently with me, please’. Indeed, most trucks have its direct service to Dubai from Cape Town, ‘Hoot please’ painted on their tailgates Durban and Johannesburg. (not that Indian drivers require much Plan to visit between November and encouragement in this regard). The roads April, when most migrant birds are present out of towns are equally exciting, with and the summer have finished. overtaking in the face of oncoming traffic In winter the climate is generally clear and being standard practice. Even on modern warm during the day, cooling pleasantly at freeways, don’t be surprised to find a truck night, especially in the interior. Insects are heading towards you in the fast lane. All of barely a problem, and although travel clinics this means it is pretty much obligatory to list the state as having malaria, you shouldn’t hire a car with a driver. Having a driver also need prophylaxis in winter provided you take takes care of the problem that most road reasonable precautions. signs are completely unrecognisable if you only know the English name of your TRANSPORT desired destination. The roads range from good to medi­ocre, and it usually takes a fair amount of time Food and accommodation to cover even modest distances, so don’t Food and accommodation are excellent Overall, Gujarat is an exciting destination for African be too ambitious when planning your itin­ value for money, provided you are happy erary. Other road users pose the greatest to rough it a bit in the smaller towns and birders. It is sufficiently different from Africa to make for challenge: in towns, all manner of traffic to eat the local cuisine. There are plenty of an exotic birding experience, but has enough common – buses, cars, scooters, bikes, pedestrians hotels in most centres, offering accom­ and livestock – merges and mingles in a modation across the spectrum of quality elements to help enhance your African birding skills seemingly chaotic pattern, punctuated and price. Gujarati food is almost exclus­ by endless hooting. It more or less works, ively vegetarian and much of it is strongly despite the lack of apparent rules and spiced. The state is alcohol free, so don’t regulations. By moving fairly slowly, expect to celebrate a good day’s birding The Sociable Lapwing is listed as Critically patches of scrub along the way; I was addition to the stately blackbuck, and Warbler and a range of raptors, including people accommodate others in a manner with a cold beer. Endangered and has a global population pleased to find Painted Sandgrouse and In- there’s a reasonable chance of seeing Indi- Imperial and Greater Spotted eagles, as akin to the way pedestrians weave through Visit www.waders.in for more information. of barely 10 000 individuals. The discovery dian Bushlark here. Velavadar’s extensive an wolf, striped hyaena and golden jackal. well as many Short-eared Owls. Mammal a few years ago of a wintering flock in grassland and scrub is ideal for harriers, watchers will enjoy the and agricultural lands near Dasada has made and around 3 000 congregate each even- he north of Gujarat is domin­ desert fox, as well as further chances of In- Gujarat one of the most reliable places in ing to roost on patches of open ground. ated by large tracts of grass- dian wolf and wild boar. Indian Coursers the world to see the species. Montagu’s and Pallid harriers predom­ land, and salt marshes (known are best found in recently ploughed fields inate, but there are also Hen and Western as ranns). Seasonal flooding of in adjacent farmland, and wetlands again Marsh-Harriers. It’s an ideal place to hone theT ranns during the monsoon creates offer a wealth of waterbirds, including your skills at separating the tricky juveniles ideal con­ditions for flamingos, and both Sarus Cranes. Local knowledge helps to re- and females of these species. Other raptors Greater and Lesser breed regularly on the veal sites for Pallid Scops-Owl and Sykes’ in the area include White-eyed Buzzards, . Together with the Nightjar, and is essential to connect with Laggar Falcons and Greater Spotted Eagles. nearby Banni grassland and surrounding a flock of the critically endangered Soci­ Velavadar is also lark country, with farmland, this region is home to a suite able Lapwing. For the other specials, you thousands of Greater Short-toed as well of restricted-range birds such as Indian have to venture further to the Great Rann, as the distinctive Rufous-tailed, and Ashy- and Macqueen’s bustards, Marshall’s Iora, which requires quite a bit more time spent crowned Sparrow-Lark. Both Crested and White-naped Tit and White-browed Bush- driving on rather indifferent roads. Syke’s larks occur, allowing the chance to chat. Other species that can be tricky to Overall, Gujarat is an exciting destination compare them alongside one another. But see elsewhere are Sociable Lapwing and for African birders. It is sufficiently different pride of place goes to the 80 or so Lesser the enigmatic Grey Hypocolius, related to from Africa to make for an exotic birding Floricans in the reserve, almost five per the waxwings. One enterprising birder has experience, but has enough common ele- cent of the estimated global population. set up a community nursery to grow and ments to help enhance your African birding They are difficult to locate when the males plant out the fruiting shrub favoured by skills. I can strongly endorse it as a great in- are not performing their bizarre jumping the hypocolius in winter. troduction to birding on the subcontinent. display, but I came across a group of four The , only a few For bird photographers, the combination of in relatively short grass. On the mammal hours’ drive north-west of Ahmedabad, is abundant, confiding birds and mostly clear, front, Velavadar has plenty of nilgar in good for Macqueen’s Bustard, Asian Desert calm winter days is unbeatable.

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