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Courageous Galveston

It takes more than just a little water to beat this town

by Libby Boren McMillan

alveston Island has long Europeans “discovered” the island in been a summer play- the late 1500s, when it was inhabited by ground for Texans who Indian tribes. In the coming centuries it Glike seafood, suntans, and would be ruled or claimed by Spain and unique entertainment. Sunny beaches France, become a part of Mexico, and beckon many to make the quick, forty- be lorded over by famous pirate Jean minute drive from to this Lafitte. During Lafitte’s stay in the early friendly destination, 1800s, Galveston was home to a ship- which also boasts one of America’s finest yard, pool halls, saloons, gambling collections of nineteenth-century archi- houses, and a bustling slave trade. Texas tecture. But what visitors don’t count on eventually gained its independence is discovering perhaps one of the most from Spain and Mexico, without amazing stories in American history. Lafitte’s help, but at his forced depar- ture, he allegedly left behind treasure. By 1836, Sam Houston prevailed, and A Galveston surf pier (top) the City of Galveston was soon found- glows in the setting sun, and a ed by ten wealthy investors. pair of carefree visitors enjoy a As a port of entry, Galveston soon bike ride (bottom). became the fourth-largest city in Texas and a major American financial center. deadliest natural disaster in the United It claimed the first law firm west of the States hit . A tidal surge Mississippi, the state’s first customs not unlike Katrina’s swept across this house and post office, its first gas lights, thirty-two-mile-long island, but with no and the first hospital and private bank in warning. Six thousand lives were the state, even the first use of the tele- instantly lost, and the most important graph and telephone in Texas. city in the west was left in ruins. More Population in “The Wall Street of the than 3,600 buildings were simply Southwest” swelled to 37,000, including washed away, and a full one-third of many fabulously affluent residents seri- Texas’ sophisticated port city was ously attempting to outdo each other. destroyed. Many of Galveston’s bread- The results of all that unbridled compe- winners, and those who would have tition are the architectural treasures lin- helped rebuild her, were lost forever. ing historic Broadway Street. Each mag- Those who had loved them were sud- nificent home stands, however, as testa- denly homeless and heartbroken. ment to man’s fortitude in the face of It’s said that everything is bigger in nearly insurmountable odds. Texas, and while that’s always up for

It was September of 1900 when the debate, the surviving Galvestonians BUREAU VISITORS CONVENTION & OF GALVESTON COURTESY PHOTOS

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certainly make the case. The resolve chose, in the year 1902, to raise nearly that they showed, and the hope that their entire city by four to six feet. they summoned in the face of utter Think about that for a moment. despair and shock, is nearly impossible The City of Galveston was first to imagine today. For not only did the dredged with countless canals, and res- surviving residents choose to stay and idents had to navigate their way from rebuild, they constructed a fifteen mil- point to point via wooden catwalks. lion dollar seawall seven miles long and Dozens of men synchronized their seventeen feet high. But that protective jack’s turns to the beat of a drummer— barrier is not the main triumph of the one beat, one predetermined turn of the Galvestonians, however, for they also jack—so that Galveston’s remaining

A Galveston Trolley offers a view of homes along Rosenburg Ave. (above). Harbor House (below) is a modern-day translation of a working waterfront warehouse, recreated as a casual, tasteful 42-room inn-style . BOTTOM PHOTO COURTESY OF THE ZIMMERMAN AGENCY; TOP PHOTO COURTESY OF GALVESTON CONVENTION & VISITORS BUREAU VISITORS CONVENTION & OF GALVESTON COURTESY PHOTO TOP AGENCY; THE ZIMMERMAN OF COURTESY PHOTO BOTTOM

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(Above) The Momus float in the annual Mardi Gras parade in late January. (Right) Galveston’s grandest and best-known building, the Bishop's Palace was cited as one of the most important buildings in America. (Bottom) The gorgeous Gulf-front , circa 1911.

homes and commercial buildings, many cial buildings, home to successful gal- massive aquarium, tropical rainforest, 3-D of which were enormous, were ever so leries, restaurants, and an appealing IMAX theater, and an IMAX Ridefilm slowly raised so that fill could be added hotel, compose one of the country’s finest Theater. Nearby, families also enjoy the underneath. Over the course of eight architectural collections of commercial Schlitterbahn Waterpark. The Offshore years, residents filled in their canals treasures. A documentary about The Drilling Rig and Museum, Lone Star and successfully completed raising five Great Storm is shown daily, on Pier 21. Flight Museum, tall ship Elyssa and hundred city blocks of Galveston to a Galveston Island Trolley tours pro- Seaport Museum, Railroad Museum, new level. The project required not vide a charming way to get oriented and more than twenty antique stores, and dol- only an incredible amount of fill but learn details about the island’s illustrious phin-watching harbor tours round out immeasurable willpower. history at the same time. The trolleys, the many entertainment options avail- Today, Galveston has a full fifteen built in the same turn-of-the-century able, in addition to the city’s beaches. hundred buildings registered nationally style as the historic vehicles that preced- Anglers should pack their favorite gear. within its historic districts: the East End, ed them, cover eight miles of the island Romantics, history buffs, and anyone the Silk Stocking District, the Central for only $1.25. Visitors also love the who appreciates architecture will enjoy Business District, and The Strand. The Galveston Sightseeing Train, which touring the twenty-eight-thousand- Strand’s Victorian, iron-fronted commer- passes the shrimp fleet, the “Broadway square-foot limestone-and-brick Moody Beauties,” the Strand, the Mansion, which was allegedly bought remains of , after the big storm for ten cents on the Jean Lafitte’s home, and dollar, by one of Texas’ most powerful scores of other landmarks families. Other must-see attractions on its hour-and-a-half tour include and the ornate 1988 of the island. Bishop’s Palace, cited by AIA as one of No visit to Galveston the one hundred most important build- would be complete without ings in America. The gorgeous Gulf- a day spent exploring its front Hotel Galvez, circa 1911, is a feath- West End attractions. er in the city’s cap; stay there if you can. Adjacent to Moody If partying is more your thing, consider Gardens Hotel, Spa, and visiting late January through early Convention Center are February for Mardi Gras; Galveston ’ colorful attracts 250,000 revelers to the city.

pyramids, which hold a Elaborate masquerade balls, parades, art BUREAU VISITORS CONVENTION & OF GALVESTON COURTESY PHOTOS TOP AGENCY; THE ZIMMERMAN OF COURTESY PHOTO BOTTOM

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shows, and live entertainment heat up this longstanding winter tradition. The 1894 Grand Opera House is a memorable venue offering top-notch entertainment, and big-name acts also perform at Moody Gardens. The city’s historic , once Texas’ finest nightclub and casino, hosted the likes of Frank Sinatra, Duke Ellington, Bob Hope, Groucho Marx, Jack Benny, George Burns, Tony Bennett, and Gene Autry during its hey- day in the ’40s and ’50s. Today it’s been renovated and reopened in its original location on the pier; the occasional live band plays in the bar. High season in Galveston is May through August, but a full slate of special events fills the annual calendar for this charming Victorian city. There’s no bad time to visit a place that inspired such an unbelievable tale of triumph. n

Libby Boren McMillan is a freelance writer for Times of the Islands. If You Go LODGING Hotel Galvez, 2024 Seawall Blvd., 1-800-WYNDHAM, www.hotel galvez.com The Tremont House, 2300 Ship’s Mechanic Row, 409-763-0300, www.thetremonthouse.com

DINING Benno’s on the Beach, 1200 Seawall Blvd., 409-762-4621 El Patio Café, 1220 23rd St., 409- 762-0503 Joe’s Crab Shack, 3502 Seawall Blvd., 409-766-1515 Leon’s Finest In & Out Barbecue House, 5427 Broadway, 409-744- 0070 Yaga’s Café and Bar, 2314 Strand, 409-762-6676

SHOPPING There’s happily ever after, and there’s happier – a sunset Simply Art Gallery, 2425 Strand, wedding on our private beach at the legendary ’Tween ’Tween’Tween 409-762-4700 Waters Inn. Call our wedding specialists today. And fi nd waters * Per night basedout based how on romantic three nights. and easy Valid happier 1.2.07-2.14.07. ever after can be. Peanut Butter Warehouse (antiques), Shouldn’t every day be this good? inn 100 20th Street, 409-762-8358 Captiva Island, Florida • 800.223.5865 • tween-waters.com

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