FRIDAY-SUNDAY, MARCH 26-28, 2010

Amsterdam sinologist Otto Franke (1863-1946) Until June 13 % art through paintings and objects from 44-131-624-6200 “Kienholz: Hoerengracht” displays a his studies in Asia. www.nationalgalleries.org walk-through evocation of Amster- Museum Dahlem- dam’s red-light district by American Museum of Asian Art London Until May 24 artists Edward and Nancy Kienholz. music % 49-30-8301-382 Amsterdam Historisch Museum “Teenage Cancer Trust 2010,” www.smb.museum Until Aug. 29 is being supported by top Brit- % 31-20-5231-822 ish musical acts, including Arctic music www.ahm.nl Monkeys and The Who, “Festtage 2010” is a classical-music festi- which will perform Barcelona val, featuring opera performances of “Eu- “Quadrophenia.” gene Onegin,” “Simon Boccanegra” and March 26, Noel film “Tristan and Isolde” alongside recitals. Gallagher “Frederico Fellini: The Circus of Illusions” Staatsoper Unter den Linden March 27, presents more than 400 images illus- Until April 5 Arctic Monkeys trating the work process, inspirations % 49-30-2035-4438 March 28, JLS and films of the Italian director. www.staatsoper-berlin.org March 29, The Specials CaixaForum Barcelona March 30, The Who Until June 13 Bilbao Royal Albert Hall % 34-93-4768-600 art www.royalalberthall.com obrasocial.lacaixa.es “Anish Kapoor” is a touring exhibition presenting 20 major sculptural works design music by the Turner Prize-winning artist, “Sustainable Future” show- “Woody Allen and His New Orleans from the 1970s to the present. cases prototypes, samples, Sammlung Otto Franke, Privatbesitz Jazz Band” conclude the European Museo Guggenheim Bilbao products and films illustrat- March tour of the jazz ensemble. Until Oct. 12 ing the possibilities of sustain- Touring Mallorca, March 28, Palau de la Musica, % 34-94-435-9000 ability in modern design. Barcelona www.guggenheim-bilbao.es Design Museum March 29, Terme, Montecatini March 31-Sept. 5 March 30, Teatro La Fenice, Venice Above, Chinese order of the double dragon, à la carte % Bonn 44-20-7940-8790 awarded by the Chinese government to March 31, Academia Santa Cecilia, art designmuseum.org Rome Otto Franke in 1898, on show in Berlin; “Erwin Wurm” shows work by the bottom left, Alex Turner of Arctic Monkeys. Exploring the island’s food trails www.woodyallenband.com Austrian artist known for his “one- music minute sculptures” as well as his use “Chopin: The Romantic Refugee” exam- Berlin of cars, potatoes, cucumbers and ines the life of composer Frédéric art other ordinary objects in his artwork. Chopin, presenting rare historic record- cise on Velázquez’s “Las Meninas” un- parts circulating in blackness. “Treasures of the Aga Khan Museum: Kunstmuseum Bonn ings, letters and documents. dertaken by Goya in 1778. Pinakothek der Moderne Masterpieces of Islamic Art” show- Until June 6 The British Library Museo Nacional del Prado Until June 27 % 49-228-7762-11 Until May 16 cases 200 works chosen from 1,000 Until May 30 % 49-89-2380-5360 years of Islamic culture, including www.kunstmuseum-bonn.de % 44-843-2081-144 % 34-91-3302-800 www.pinakothek.de paintings, drawings and ceramics. www.bl.uk www.museodelprado.es Martin Gropius Bau Edinburgh Oslo % 49-30-2548-6236 photography music Until June 6 “Artist Rooms: Diane Arbus” showcases Madrid Munich “Andrea Bocelli” presents the Italian www.berlinerfestspiele.de 70 black-and-white photographs by the art art American photographer, spanning her “Richard Hamilton: Picasso’s Meninas” “Pipilotti Rist: Extremities (smooth, tenor reciting classic standards as well history career from the mid-1950s until her explores a 1973 portfolio by the Brit- smooth)” displays an audio-visual in- as pop and personal compositions. “Cultural Pictures from China” cele- death in 1971. ish Pop artist entitled “Homage to Pic- stallation by the Swiss artist present- April 8, Telenor Arena, Oslo brates the life and work of German Dean Gallery asso,” alongside a similar artistic exer- ing an array of free-floating body April 9, Copenhagen Forum April 11, Globe Arena, Stockholm www.andreabocelli.com Paris art “Tao, Another Way of Being” exam- ines the religious and cultural impor- tance of Taoism in China through 250 objects, including paintings, sculptures, ceramics and textiles. Grand Palais March 31-July 5 % 33-1-4413-1717 www.grandpalais.fr

fashion “An Ideal History of Contemporary Fashion, vol. I: 70-80” illustrates the history of contemporary fashion from the 1970s to the 1980s. Les Arts Decoratifs April 1-Oct. 10 % 33-1-4455-5750 www.lesartsdecoratifs.fr Stockholm art “Lee Lozano” offers a a retrospective of work by the American artist (1930-99) including her avant-garde, minimalist and conceptual art. Moderna Museet Until April 25 % 46-8-5195-5200 www.modernamuseet.se

Source: ArtBase Global Arts News Ser- vice, WSJE research. Chiaki Nozu

W12 Friday - Sunday, March 26 - 28, 2010 | WEEKEND JOURNAL Wine:Wine: The Playing best of with Christmas the Rhône drinking The artEuropean of copying Web masterpieces habits revealed v Books

Bookshelf / By Paul Levy Contents 7 3 | Interview 6-7 | Cover story Travel 10 | Top Picks From Steamy Italy to Frozen Fjords

Ever since they appeared to- lacks both the darkly mordant few identifiable characters—in beginnings on a frozen fjord,” Tom Aldous the key to work out Mads Mikkelsen gether with 18 other young Brit- wit, and the perpetually shocking particular, one long set-piece in which is reminiscent of Evelyn how to produce clean energy by Mapping Mallorca ‘Romeo and Juliet” triumphs ish novelists in a 1983 issue of revelations about human behav- which the protagonist, Michael Waugh’s writing “Scoop” as a re- mimicking the process of photosyn- on being an action hero Granta magazine, Martin Amis ior, that characterize his best fic- Beard—a self-indulgent, glutton- sult of being sent to cover Mussoli- thesis in the vegetable kingdom, Exploring the island’s exquisite food trails and Ian McEwan have seemed to tion. Because Keith and the au- ous, alcoholic, unprepossessing, ni’s invasion of Abyssinia: a comic and releasing usable quantities of Art by Robert De Niro, Sr. be part of the same literary gang. thor are in so many respects iden- womanizing and much-married response to a sinister occasion by hydrogen from water. Mr. McEwan 4-5 | Food & Wine One difference, though, is that Mr. tical, it is not surprising that the Nobel Prize-winning physicist— a mature artist. Mr. McEwan’s elaborates this in its totally grip- Amis is a publicity magnet. He narrator shows a bit of tender- goes on an expedition to the Arc- achievement is the more remark- ping, and entirely hilarious, detail. A beautiful patchwork of a show has only to say something satiri- ness for him, which makes him tic Circle. Mr. McEwan was on able, though, for being funny Beard of course steals his student’s cally whimsical (for example, pro- very different from the other fic- just such a voyage in 2005. about climate change—a feat that work, in another sub-plot that in- Chef Tim Raue’s posing euthanasia booths on ev- tional Keith (Talent), of Mr. volves an apparent murder and de-

Collecting: Garden ornamentation ery street-corner to deal with the Amis’s biting book, “Money.” pends pleasingly on the literary unusual approach t “silver tsunami” of baby-boomers) “The Pregnant Widow” quali- conventions of the thriller. This to be denounced in the letters fies, of course, for all sorts of for- seems to me plot-construction (as 11 | Books pages of every national newspa- eign language descriptors: It’s also Beard would say) of another order per. Consequently he is a house- a Bildungsroman, a record of the of magnitude from some of the hold name, sentimental writer’s earlier work; meticulous whereas Mr. education of a and tidy, there are no unraveled, New books from McEwan’s ce- The Pregnant Widow bookish, sex- floppy or unfastened ends. lebrity is a lit- By Martin Amis obsessed Ox- Along the way Mr. McEwan Amis and McEwan tle more spe- (Jonathan Cape, 480 pages, £18.99) ford under- seizes every opportunity for fre- cialized. graduate read- quent (and brilliant) set-pieces, of Both au- ing English which the most audacious is a

Sergio Formoso Solar 12 | Time Off thors have with an long section in which Beard learns Port of Soller on the coast of la Serra of Tramuntana in Mallorca. now pub- By Ian McEwan equally obses- enough about Milton almost to lished sub- (Jonathan Cape, 304 pages, £18.99) sive interest earn a degree, in order to seduce Alicia Guirao COVER , Valldemossa, Mallorca. Our arts stantial new in the origins a girl reading English at Oxford. Photograph by Salvador Busquets. novels that of words. The In another, Beard falls narrowly Wine: Playing with the Rhône and culture are in part autobiographical ro- trouble is precisely that it is so short of duelling over a packet of mans à clef. Mr. Amis has made it sentimental, and at 500 pages, too salt-and-vinegar-flavored potato 8 | Art t clear that the major part of “The long and demanding of the read- chips, which illustrates his greed, calendar Random House (2) Pregnant Widow”—detailing the er’s attention for such slight mat- but also presents another amiably love affairs of one 20-year-old ters. Indeed the real interest for In this novel—an artistically involves him mastering a great droll academic target for satire. Replicating masterpieces protagonist, Keith Nearing, during this reader was in the sub-plots in- ambitious, though seriously enter- deal of genuine science, in order Throughout, the reader is never the summer of 1970, which he volving the sad decline of Keith’s taining, response to the facts of to invent the cod-science that is in any doubt that Mr. McEwan is Barbara Tina Fuhr Editor spends in an Italian castle—is ac- sister Violet, and especially the global warming—Mr. McEwan has so much part of the pleasure of one of the good guys—he’s in no Elisabeth Limber Art director tually about himself. Hence, the sexually accomplished and Dicken- a lot of fun with some rides on a reading “Solar.” The protagonist way a climate change denier, he Brian M. Carney Books page editor 9 | Golf identities of the several girls in- sianly-named Gloria Beautyman. “skidoo” snow vehicle, but the Michael Beard, for example, who clearly knows too much science Questions or comments? Write to [email protected]. volved have become the subject Mr. McEwan also differs from main purpose of the episode is to was awarded the Nobel for “the for that. In “Solar” he’s elegantly Please include your full name and address. Dish with lion, Turkey, second half 16th century, on show in Berlin. of several newspaper and maga- his earlier work, which had a ma- show how fragile human coopera- Beard-Einstein Conflation, a spine- discovered a terrible truth: that The truth behind who built it for Culture, Geneva, Switzerland Trust Aga Khan © zine pieces, with wannabe Lilies, cabre tinge—a stolen child, a man tion can be, as anarchy engulfs tingling hyphenation for any physi- comedy is the only possible way Scheherazades and Glorias vying who makes himself disappear, a the organization of the boot room, cist, placing Beard’s work proudly for an artist to deal with the sear- to nominate themselves. The book penis preserved in a jar. In “So- where the team’s crucial frostbite- in a lineage origination from Ein- ing specter stalking the planet. will be of large interest to Mr. lar,” he now gives us a sustained preventing clothing is kept. stein’s revolutionary 1905 paper.” Amis’s future biographer, but per- comic novel, and a very good one, In his acknowledgements Mr. That prize-winning “Confla- Mr. Levy is a writer based in Ox- haps chiefly to him or her, as it too. Here too there seem to be a McEwan says, “this novel had its tion” then gives post-doc student fordshire. THE JOURNAL CROSSWORD / Edited by Mike Shenk 55 *“The Night of the Hunter” Down 52 Austen novel 84 Got up star—his middle names are 1 It’s just not right 54 Ceremonious verse 85 “I ___ saw this before”: Charles Durman! 56 Dust jacket hype Desdemona 21 Soothing plant 30 Best in a hot dog 43 “Fuzzy Wuzzy was 2 Hodgepodge Across 59 Rapper Snoop ___ 89 Short negligee contest ___” 3 Money tray 57 Night school subj. Bookshelf / By Dalya Alberge 1 Powerball, e.g. 22 Pilaf need 61 They test reasoning skills: 91 Game choice 7 31 Estimator’s phrase 44 Passes on 4 Friend’s pronoun 58 LeBron’s team, 6 Notation used for 23 *Cut from the Abbr. 92 Sub captain’s command 33 It became Spike 5 Alfresco on a sports ticker Unix permissions tenderloin—its 45 In the worst way 62 Author O’Flaherty in 2003 60 Nutty snack 93 Classic baseball variant name means 47 Super Bowl XXXIV 6 Kimono sash 11 Pen holder? 63 Tequila sources 63 Gung-ho 94 Popular workout A Classical Composer in a Modern World “dainty cut”! 34 Experience champs 7 Handle 15 Tweedledum, 67 Beat back 64 “Strait Is the Gate” 95 Beatniks beat them 25 *Sources of halite— 35 *Midwest 48 “Impression, 8 Voice quality for one metropolis—it has 70 Europe’s largest novelist that’s a type of Sunrise” painter 9 Heaps 96 City north of Lisbon 19 Philanthropist Yale a view of Canada active volcano 65 Rugby’s river Samuel Barber was nine when one of the 20th century’s most suc- ductor Arturo Toscanini. Barber to write music that was immedi- from his mother and sister, and evaporitic deposit! 49 Kentucky college 10 Protracted 97 “Hoffa” director 20 George who to the south! 72 Brawny competitor 66 Furniture carrier he confessed a “worrying secret” cessful opera composers, are partic- observes to Prof. Dickinson: ately recognizable as American: from his aunt Louise Homer, an 27 El Greco’s home 11 Sausage skin 99 Home of the Bundestag invented a logic 42 Bobby Clarke, from 50 Penultimate letter 73 Informal farewell in a note to his mother. Urging ularly valuable. They lived together “There’s no reason music should “That made him somewhat differ- international opera singer. 12 Verve 68 Takeoff estimates, 100 Tribeca restaurant system 28 Profit 1969 to 1984 53 Hurricane’s cousin 74 Consider for short her not to cry, he wrote: “I was outside New York for 30 years be difficult for the audience.” ent.” In fact, Barber despised the While there are several refer- 13 Online chuckle co-owned by Robert 76 *“Fine by me!”—that 69 Ninny’s brain size De Niro not meant to be an athlete. I was from 1943, and the book shows He was one of a handful of “folksy Americana” of Copland, ences in the book to Barber’s wit 14 Reveal sounds like something 70 “Ask ___ questions...” 102 Move boundaries, meant to be a composer, and will how crucial their relationship was composers who could live off his Menotti recalled. and charm, we learn that he could “Enough!” / by Myles Callum 15 In an unoriginal way Mr. Ed might say! 71 Briefly, a feature of each perhaps be, I’m sure . . . Don’t ask me to to both composers’ artistic develop- music, although he suffered at the Although Barber’s critical suc- also become morose. Prof. Dickin- 12345 6789101112131415161718 16 Napa business 81 Creature on the British starred clue, and a chunk 106 Scot’s family try and forget this unpleasant ment. Menotti described Barber as hands of critics who dismissed cesses included two Pulitzer son tells us that Barber never 17 Mammoth period? 19 20 21 22 coat of arms of its answer 107 Easy gait thing and to go play football.” “a very tormented soul, never him as old-fashioned—only to Prizes—in 1958 fully recovered 18 Counselor to the 86 Animal house 73 Fragrant flowers 108 Milton Friedman’s subj. 23 24 25 26 Greeks at Troy With a prophetic sense of his happy with what he had done”—al- change their tune after his death. for his opera “Va- from the mauling 87 Chocolate-caramel candies 75 Geometry giant 110 “___ your disposal” 24 Memento ___ own destiny, he went on to be- though he was only truly happy As Menotti told Prof. Dickinson, nessa” and in he received for 27 28 29 30 88 Candy wafer brand 77 Cut in three 111 Mambo legend Puente 26 It’s exposed at low tide come one of America’s most re- while he was composing. “Once he “Now that he is dead, all of a sud- 1962 for his Pi- his grand opera 90 Bassoon’s cousin 78 Chic, in the 1960s 112 Tiger’s wife 29 Tropical cuckoos vered classical composers. His in- had finished the piece, he could den everybody’s rediscovering ano Con- “Antony and Cleo- 31 32 33 34 91 “Empire” author 79 Memo heading 32 Like Hercules 113 Manhattan-based tensely lyrical “Adagio for not bear to look at it . . . He suf- Sam Barber.” He condemned news- certo—he was bit- patra,” which he 92 Like the familiar shark fin 80 Lab act fashion co. 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 34 Relieves of weapons Strings” is one of the most popu- fered a great papers like ter that the “Ada- wrote for the 94 Graceful assurance 82 Pigeon patter 115 ___ du Diable 35 Move quickly lar classics, used in films such as deal because the New York gio for Strings” opening of the 43 44 45 46 95 Augurs 83 Expiration notice 117 “Au contraire!” Samuel Barber Remembered: 36 PayPal’s parent company Platoon and regularly performed he went Times, which had eclipsed his new Metropolitan 98 *High-ranking official—Canada’s 47 48 49 50 51 52 37 Office aide world-wide. Now the centenary through long A Centenary Tribute had “so often other music. It is Opera at Lincoln Leona Aglukkaq is one! 38 Impetuous of his birth is being marked with periods of dry- By Peter Dickinson damned his widely consid- Center in 1966. 53 54 55 56 57 58 101 First games of the season Last Week’s Solution 39 Robert of “The Sopranos” a new biography, “Samuel Barber ness.” (Boydell & Brewer, 198 pages, £25) music,” for ered a master- After that defeat, 103 First mate? 59 60 61 62 40 Statesman who sought DELIMIT CLEAVE JOPLIN Remembered,” by Peter Dickin- The book printing his piece, but Barber Barber never 104 Poster person Carthage’s destruction AGITATO OUTPAY ENRICO son, the eminent British musicolo- explores the obituary on thought he had wrote anything 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70 71 105 Tenderfoot 41 Was a wheelman for, say URBANECOMMERCE TO I LET gist and composer, emeritus pro- anachronism that was Barber. In the front page. Menotti also at- written much bet- of comparable im- 106 Some bayou folk ___ BERLE CRAB COMB AL I I 72 73 74 75 46 “Vox populi, vox ” fessor of Keele and London uni- an avant-garde age of Berio and tacked major opera houses that ter work, saying portance, and 109 Teased 48 Stock exchange? TESTLAB ALL INCLEMENT versities, and a devoted cham- Stockhausen, he did not seem to had ignored his operas, then sud- with typical hu- died a broken SAT I RE I N SUM 76 77 78 79 80 81 82 83 84 85 114 *Flour-making plant—the 49 They’re tops at pion of American music. belong to his musical century. His denly rushed to stage them after mor: “Sometimes man. But, as Prof. Greek geographer Strabo ABUT HAT ATAD EMBALM Victoria’s Secret The book draws on rare inter- romantic lyricism steeped in a tra- Barber’s passing: “It’s so sad that I get tired of Dickinson points 86 87 88 89 90 wrote about one! 50 Scintilla KOSHERSALTPETER EEN I E INHER LOU ELEA STAR views with Barber and with those dition of Brahms, and his love of we all have to die before anybody hearing the out, the huge 116 *White liquid used in 51 China’s currency unit

91 92 93 94 Courtesy of Robert White/G. Schirmer cooking—it’s called gata OK I NAWA EXES HANGT IME who knew him, including his long- Bach whom he played every day, pays attention to us.” ‘Adagio’… But I number of Barber SATURNBENED I CT I ON 95 96 97 98 99 100 in the Philippines! WSJ.com term lover, the late Italian com- were out of tune with the disso- The book also explores the ob- amuse myself during the perfor- recordings and performances 118 Camp Swampy canine PUTTOSEA SELA TENFOUR poser Gian Carlo Menotti. Some nant music of his contemporar- jection that Barber’s music was mances because I know there’s go- worldwide testify to enduring pop- 101 102 103 104 119 Jai ___ Crossword online ELOI SUCH IMP SAIDA of the material was recorded 60 ies. For him, the language of the not as distinctively American as ing to be a mistake somewhere, ularity in his eternity. And of AEROS PROD I GALPAULSON 120 Vancouver Olympics For an interactive that of Copland, Gershwin or and I just wait for it to happen.” course, the late master might be 105 106 107 108 109 110 111 112 113 KEYNES EMUS ALB LENT years ago and most has remained 19th century had not yet been ex- star Ohno version of The Wall ATM EMMA CALC unpublished until now. The biog- hausted, and he created music Charles Ives, as if the heart of Barber’s father was a re- amused to know that mistakes 114 115 116 117 121 Order pizza, maybe Street Journal Crossword, SIMOLEONSAYS AYEAYES raphy should appeal both to aca- that was rhythmically complex the American idiom lies only in spected doctor who realized that still abound in just about every 122 Procrastinator’s promise WSJ.com subscribers his son would ask nothing more performance of the “Adagio.” 118 119 120 121 ADAB TOOL HOTS P I DAY demics, with its copious foot- and harmonically rich—and ad- jazz or folk song. Prof. Dickinson 123 Home of the Quakers can go to NINJAS MIRACLEGROPIUS notes, and to general music lov- mired by some of the day's fore- says Copland, who knew Barber, out of life than to starve in a gar- 122 123 124 125 124 Article of faith WSJ.com/WeekendJournal TOLEDO ACETAL ORNETTE ers, with its wealth of anecdotes. most musicians, including pianist asserted that he did not believe ret and be a musician. Barber’s Ms. Alberge is a writer based in 125 Unfeeling AMYTAN SELENA DRESSER The reminiscences of Menotti, Vladimir Horowitz and the con- Barber had any conscious desire musical influences came more London.

W2 Friday - Sunday, March 26 - 28, 2010 | WEEKEND JOURNAL WEEKEND JOURNAL | Friday - Sunday, March 26 - 28, 2010 W11 v Top Picks v Interview Energetic ‘Romeo and Juliet’ triumphs

Stratford-upon-Avon: The Romeo, and he moves so elegantly Royal Shakespeare Company ensem- that he’s as beautiful to watch as he Mikkelsen revels in latest scars ble that was put together in 2009 for is to hear speak verse, which he does three years has had its ups and as easily as if it were his ordinary downs. The current riff on “King means of conversing. “Romeo” Lear,” Dennis Kelly’s “The Gods means “pilgrim to Rome” and Mr. Weep” at the Hampstead Theatre, is Goold’s painstaking direction makes a downer. But it’s more than made the most of the lovers’ word-playful up for by the return of Rupert Goold exchange (in Petrarchan sonnet Sotheby’s-ArtDIgital Studio to Stratford as associate director of form, Act 1, scene V) where Romeo A French 19th-century allegorical the RSC with a triumphant produc- says, “My lips, two blushing pil- marble figure of Spring, by Jean ‘Clash of the Titans,’ tion of “Romeo and Juliet.” grims ready stand…” Baptiste Clésinger. The staging is an exceptionally Jonjo O’Neill as Mercutio Estimate: Œ40,000-Œ50,000. ‘Valhalla Rising’ films bold mixture of traditional and con- matches their performances. He temporary. Tom Scutt’s sets open forcefully impresses upon you that cast actor as action hero with a projection of a rose window Mercutio is in the tradition of Shake- Statues, on the Courtyard Theatre’s thrust speare’s fools, partly because of the Copenhagen Refn. Why have you worked with him so stage, and Juliet’s balcony is some- bawdy physicality of his acting. But By Elizabeth Fitzherbert many times? times like the altar of a church, and also because, here again, Mr. Goold fountains ANISH ACTOR MADS MIKKELSEN has Ithinkheisabrilliantdirector.Heisveryrad- sometimes like a giant gold picture allows Mr. O’Neill time to crack jokes faced his biggest challenge since oppos- ical with everything he does. If he is making frame for an Old Master painting. that most productions rush through, in the garden Ding James Bond as the villain, Le Chiffre, somethingrealistichealwaysdoesitextremely Most of Mr. Scutt’s costumes are Re- believing them too obscure to be in “Casino Royale.” Mr. Mikkelsen, 44 years old, realistically, like a documentary style that has naissance, save for the star-crossed Ellie Kurttz funny to today’s audiences. They are appears with armies of monsters and Holly- an edge. It is the exact opposite of TV drama. It lovers themselves. Juliet appears From left: Joseph Arkley (Tybalt), Sam Troughton (Romeo), Gruffudd Glyn (Balthasar). crude; but when you see this energy- S THE WEATHER warms, wood A-listers as Draco, leader of the Praeto- is his edginess that appeals to me....We have an clad in T-shirt and basketball sneak- charged “Romeo and Juliet,” you’ll Ainterest in garden orna- rian Guard, in the remake of the 1981 film, unspoken language that works. His films are al- ers, and Romeo in layered hoodies, not only laugh at some jokes you mentation takes off. “Clash of the Titans,” in an experience he de- ways inside his head and what comes on paper taking photographs with his mobile the Capulet ball, in which everyone ing) love scenes. When she tells never before knew were in the text, On March 31-April 1 in scribes as “extremely demanding.” is never what we are going to do. So my job is to phone. This succeeds in giving the takes frenzied part in a Capoeira, Romeo he kisses “by th’ book,” she but also you’ll leave feeling you’ve Paris, Sotheby’s will auction The action adventure, which will be re- translate his “inner film.” I think we are a good pair some youthful urgency; it is bol- the Brazilian fighting/dance. seems to know what she’s talking been touched by a genuine tragedy. historic stone, marble and leased in the U.K. and U.S. on April 2 and then match, which is basically why I did it. stered, oddly enough, by dressing Mariah Gale’s Juliet knows her about. Sam Troughton’s wonder- —Paul Levy wrought-iron statues and opens throughout the rest of Europe, stars some of the servants in Brazilian own mind, and is seldom soppy— fully expressive face makes him a Until Aug. 27 Liam Neeson as Zeus, Ralph Fiennes as Hades Describe “Valhalla Rising.” garb, which adds some street cred to even in the (smolderingly convinc- more than usually thoughtful www.rsc.org.uk and “Avatar” star Sam Worthington as Per- This film is like a dance or a meditation. It Collecting seus, whom Mr. Mikkelsen’s character accom- is an epic, mythological film where I play a MARGARET STUDER panies on an epic mission. They performed nonperson. I am religion, the past, the future, many of their own stunts. “When we came an animal. It is not about psychology but more home in the evening we all used to compare about the energy or melody of the film. I think Art by De Niro, Sr., after seeing Matisse decorative objects for gar- scars and bruises,” Mr. Mikkelsen says. it is inspired by the old Russian films and is a dens, parks and terraces. Mr. Mikkelsen is also starring as a one- big tribute to cinematic masters like Sergio Le- Nice: It isn’t every day that the Loire Valley between 1961 and 1964. a rag and turpentine to capture the The consignor is Paris eyed mute warrior in the Viking epic “Valhalla one and Kurosawa. MatisseMuseumcomesupwithanex- The show in Nice begins with a se- essential form. In contrast, his dealer Samuel Roger, whose Rising,” which opened earlier this month in hibit of contemporary American art ries of black-and-white photos of Rob- American landscapes (like the bril- company Origines—with a some European cities and will open in the U.K. You came to prominence with the renaissance underscored by the tantalizing lure ert De Niro, Sr. (1922-93) in his New liantly hued pistachio and scarlet gallery on the rue des Saints- on April 30. of Danish cinema in the 1990s. Why did Danish of film-star glamour. But this small, York loft studio on West Broadway. “New Hampshire Landscape, 1970”) Pères and a showroom in an His film acting career began in his early 30s films suddenly become so popular? dazzlingshow,“AfterseeingMatisse: Organized in the same spirit as Mat- suggest a freer brushstroke move- 18th-century industrial build- whenachanceintroductiontoDanishfilmdirec- I believe that there is a certain language for paintings and drawings by Robert de isse’s emblematic play with mirrors, ment reminiscent of a drippy Pol- ing in Richebourg—special- tor Nicolas Winding Refn led to Mr. Mikkelsen’s every generation and I think maybe it was time Niro, Sr.” couldn’t be housed in a it’s a voyeuristic glimpse into the art- lack-like improvisation. izes in antique exterior and casting as the junkie, Tonny, in Mr. Refn’s cult that Denmark had a language of its own. That more appropriate setting. True, the ist’s private space. There’s even a Interspersed between 34 can- interior ornamentation. film “Pusher” (1996),the first in an acclaimed means that we had a certain feeling for certain vocation of the late painter’s famous grinning profile shot of father and vases, 21 drawings and three sculp- A highlight will be a tall trilogy. The film successfully launched both of films which we weren’t doing but wanted to do. actor son, Robert de Niro, Jr., who at- son, as well as a portrait of De Niro Sr. tures by De Niro, Sr., are a dozen per- 18th-century stone figure of an their careers. Since then, Mr. Mikkelsen has So we all had the same kind of focus which was tended the crowded opening, is to with his pet parrot, hung side by side sonal objects belonging to Matisse— arrogant King Louis XIV, with proved his versatility in a number of intense the big secret for the whole change. bring his father’s art to a wider pub- with Henri Cartier-Bresson’s “Mat- porcelain jugs, vases and Venetian a gorgeous, curly hairdo (esti- roles ranging from an adulterous doctor in Sus- In 2006, “After the Wedding” was nomi- lic, but never mind: the works are a isse and his pigeons,” taken at the wood chairs—that were deliber- mate: Œ100,000-Œ120,000). An- anne Bier’s 2002 Dogme film “Open Hearts,” to nated for best foreign film and you starred fascinatingtestimonytothewayMat- Villa le Rêve in Vence, France. ately grafted into the New York art- other will be a large 19th-cen- amorallyconflictedcharityworkerinMs.Bier’s as Le Chiffre in the Bond film “Casino Roy- isse’s harmony of colors, figurative ist’s own abstract still lifes and inte- tury allegorical marble figure Oscar-nominated 2006 film “After the Wed- Though De Niro’s Abstract Ex- ale.” How did these films’ success affect composition and techniques con- riors with reclining models. Even in of Spring, in flowing robes ding.” It was his role in “Casino Royale” that pressionist palette is slightly more your career? tinue to inspire. somber than his European influ- his final work, the striking 1.5-meter- with roses twined through her brought him to Hollywood’s attention. I think there is a tendency that more peo- Born in Syracuse, New York, De ences (Bonnard, Matisse, Derain), high “Interior” (1985-93), the resem- hair (Œ40,000-Œ50,000). Casually dressed in jeans and a beanie hat, Two Spanish 19th-century ple recognize me now. Also, if people find the Niro Sr. trained with American mas- everything from the flat, solid color blance is unmistakable: in the back- Mr. Mikkelsen met with The Wall Street Journal cast-iron Florentine soldiers Bond film interesting they will go back and ters like Joseph Albers, a founder of backgrounds to the rigorous geo- ground, a rich decor, an open win- over lunch in Copenhagen’s Café Dan Turéll to make a striking pair. They see some of my Danish work before they de- optical art, and Hans Hofmann, a fol- metric organization of space invites dow; in the foreground, a lush green discuss the challenges of his latest role, the re- once graced the home of sur- cide whether to call me. I also have more parts lower of Bauhaus and American Ab- comparison. And just as Matisse re- plant, and a low, Moroccan-style ta- naissance of Danish cinema and how playing a realist Salvador Dali’s private to choose from so the chances of there being ble adorned with a white porcelain Bond villain boosted his career. stract Expressionism. Fifteen years worked his charcoal and pen draw- something good are obviously bigger. 2010 The Estate of Robert De Niro, Sr. secretary, John Peter Moore. after his first solo exhibition at Peggy ings with a stump (a stick used to vase of anemones and lemons. s The ants on one soldier’s legs Guggenheim’s New York gallery, the blend and smudge out the strokes), —Lanie Goodman Was making “Clash of the Titans” fun or are believed to have been How do you choose your projects? Do you De Niro adopted a similar tech- Until May 31 The late Robert De Niro, Sr., was it a laborious, special-effects-heavy artist moved to France in search of a painted by Dali (estimate: From top, Mads Mikkelsen; the actor starring as One-Eye in ‘Valhalla Rising.’ like to alternate between a Hollywood and a new direction, living in Paris and the nique, erasing his bold outlines with www.musee-matisse-nice.org in his studio in New York. production? Œ30,000-Œ40,000). There will Everett Collection / RexEuropean Features (2) production? The key word was definitely having a lot of be statues of lions and dogs, I’ve never worked in Hollywood. I choose fun. It was a fantastic crew and cast and every- outdoor vases, urns, stone work with the people I like to work with. First looking at me as if I was a soccer star. into 3-D. Are you excited by the 3-D revolu- benches, fountains, wells, one had an amazing time together. We just I have to read something and find it interest- (Laughs) Half an hour later, though, he gave tion, or is it just a gimmick? In London, a beautiful patchwork of a show gates and columns. seemed to bond really fast. The special effects ing and like the story. If I don’t understand it me a dead arm and we were just good friends. I think they tried the 3-D revolution at So-called antique pickers werehardwork.Itiseasiertohavedialoguewith fully but there is something in there that is in- scour France for Origines, res- somebodywho is there.Ihad a gimble(like a me- least five times throughout history and it teresting, then it takes a director to convince London: Exhibitions of quilts V&A’s own English quilted silk satin cuing pieces from buildings to chanicalball) asmyscorpion, whichIwassitting Was the A-list cast part of the appeal of mak- never seemed to work. However, finally, “Ava- me. If he can’t do that then I don’t go with it. It appear to attract large numbers of doublet and breeches, 1635-40), cur- be demolished or sold. If they onandfighting with,buttherestoftheguysonly ing the film? tar” did it. It may make it slightly more inter- doesn’t matter where the project comes from. visitors, and the Victoria & Albert tains and other hangings. In fact, have a patina, that’s O.K., says had tennis balls to imagine their scorpions. It was really the director, Louis Leterrier. esting but that is not the reason to see the Museum already has big advance the technique most of us associate Mr. Roger, explaining that He was so enthusiastic and energetic. He was film. You should see the film because hope- You live with your family in Copenhagen. bookings for its just-opened major with quilts is patchwork, where “traces of age” add to their at- Was playing Draco physically demanding? jumping up and down showing me what he fully it is a good, entertaining, family story. Would you ever move to Hollywood? spring show “Quilts 1700-2010.” (usually) geometrically regular bits traction and “looking too Yes, it was extremely demanding for all of had in mind and I was thinking how cool, he is The 3-D is just the icing on top. I might have considered it if I were 20 but I From a late 17th-century cot cover of cloth are cut out, and stitched new” doesn’t. us. The Praetorian Guard is what is left of the really into this. Another bonus is the fact that don’t see myself over there at all. I go over to Grayson Perry’s 1998 computer- around their edges, often sandwich- Origines also specializes in army. We are retired soldiers. There was me, a I have finally done a film my kids can see. You also play a warrior/Viking in “Valhalla there once or twice a year. I do my meetings generated “Right to Life,” with its ing the stuffing, to make a square or historic fireplaces. In the sale slightlyolderguyplayedbyLiamCunningham, Rising.” Are you hoping to reinvent yourself and shake the hands that I have to shake and ambiguous message about abor- rectangular bed cover. and then some very young and inexperienced as an action hero with these parts? will be a wide range of chim- You have described Draco as a “full blooded hopefully the work I have done will speak for tion, this show covers (with plenty As can be seen from scores of ex- warriors.I thinkwhen youdoafilmlikethisev- It is a little late for me, isn’t it? Well, look ney pieces, including an Aus- guy” and “a classical Greek warrior.” What re- itself. I think I would get very frustrated try- of visual puns to match this verbal amples in this fun show, patchwork eryone takes pride in doing the stunts them- at Mel Gibson, he is still doing it. (Laughs) It is trian 19th-century terracotta search or preparation did you do for the role? ing to establish a life there when I have a fine one) British quilt-making over democratized the whole business structure decorated with selves.Obviouslyyouhavesomereallydanger- a coincidence that these parts are coming life here in Denmark with a lot of good work. three centuries. of quilting, as it was a way for the coats-of-arms and two war- ous stuff that the stunt guys do (we all had our The script is always the main preparation along when I’m in my 40s. I’ve always been ex- “Quilting” means stitching poor to recycle textiles, which were like knights made for the im- own personal doubles) but they also take pride for me. Sometimes you have a period piece tremely physical. I was a gymnast for 15 years Does your training as a dancer come in use- around a stuffing, either enclosing often too expensive and valuable to perial Hapsburg family (esti- inteachingussothatwecanlookgooddoingit. where you haveto researcharound itbut,if the and then I was a dancer for nine so I was kind ful as an actor? it or giving a raised appearance to be discarded. The exhibition is orga- mate: Œ300,000-Œ500,000). writers have done their homework well of looking for these parts. But we have a ten- Sometimes I ask myself that question. I the bits between the stitching. This nized both thematically and chrono- Mr. Roger recently sold a How was working with Sam Worthington? enough, the information is all in the script. dency in Denmark not to do many action think I have an awareness of what I do. For ex- technique isn’t confined to textiles logically, with the contemporary cheminée for a Russian cli- All my scenes are with Sam. He is fantastic. Preparation consisted of physically training films. My career abroad started a little late ample I am aware when to sync; when to get meant to cover beds, but can be works “woven throughout” (the ent’s apartment in Monaco. He has a “Pusher” club back in Australia in meand the guysto look asif we are a unit.I also and these kinds of roles have just popped up. fast, when to get slow, how to move in a room, used for clothing (as shown in the V&A’s pun). —Paul Levy He says: “An historic chem- homage to the “Pusher” films I did, so he knew grew my hair and a beard. how to be drunk or not be drunk. Until July 4 inée adds soul to a house.” my work well. I was supposed to meet this “Av- “Valhalla Rising” is your fourth film with —Elizabeth Fitzherbert is a writer V&A Images A quilt by Elizabeth Chapman (1829). “Clash of the Titans” is being converted s www.vam.ac.uk/quilts atar” star but instead all I met was this boy the Danish director Nicolas Winding based in London.

W10 Friday - Sunday, March 26 - 28, 2010 | WEEKEND JOURNAL WEEKEND JOURNAL | Friday - Sunday, March 26 - 28, 2010 W3 v Food & Wine v Sport Lost in history: Inspired cuisine A golf whodunit An unusual twist, Tim Raue’s Ma restaurant works without gluten or lactose Glen Head, N.Y. one I was involved with a few years ONALD ZUCKER WAS elated ago,” began a thread on Nov. 25 by when he signed the paper- George Bahto, a golf-course design Dwork last fall giving him ti- and construction expert. tle to North Shore Country Club. Several years ago, he wrote, Mr. Zucker, 78 years old, is a lean, that an acquaintance advised him energetic New York City real-estate to take a look at North Shore be- developer who fell in love with golf cause “it looks a lot like it was built in his 50s and took his first lessons by one of your guys.” The reference at North Shore, a 96-year-old club was to two other famous early golf overlooking an inlet of Long Island architects, Charles Blair Mac- donald, about whom Mr. Bahto wrote the biography “Evangelist of Golf Golf,” and Seth Raynor, whose biog- JOHN PAUL NEWPORT raphy he is now writing. Mr. Bahto soon visited North Shore and came away convinced Sound about 25 kilometers from that the greens were the work of Manhattan. He belongs to five Mr. Raynor, who during the course’s clubs and considers himself a golf construction, 1914 to 1916, was just purist. His favorite way to experi- launching his career independent of The ninth hole at North Shore Country Club. ence the game is on foot, carrying Mr. Macdonald. The pair’s most fa- North Shore Country Club a half-set of clubs in a skinny bag. mous collaboration had been Na- For several years, he had been ac- tional Golf Links of America in the National. Even Mr. Bahto began tively looking for a golf club to buy, Southampton on eastern Long Is- to doubt. “Given all this ‘new’ infor- simply for the joy of ownership. A land, which opened in 1909. The mation, I’m taking North Shore off DISTINCTIVE PROPERTIES &ESTATES couple of deals fell through. But holes at the National were rendi- the list of Seth Raynor golf North Shore was the best. The club tions of the greatest holes in Eu- courses,” he wrote at one point. was for sale because the member- rope. The greens at North Shore But by early December the com- ship had been devastated by the re- looked remarkably similar. munal intelligence of the posters UNITED STATES cession. At least 10 families had “No. 14 was a double plateau began to focus on one thing: Not been undone by investments with green, just like No. 11 at the Na- one piece of contemporary evi- Bernard Madoff, and many others tional,” Mr. Bahto told me. “The dence linked Mr. Tillinghast to could no longer afford the annual ninth was a Redan; No. 10 was an North Shore. So on Dec. 4 a con- dues exceeding $23,000 (Œ17,236). Eden. No. 3 was one of the best Road tributor named Steve Shaffer, a re- By the end of last season North Hole greens I’ve seen anywhere.” tired attorney from Philadelphia, Shore had only about 90 golf mem- Mr. Bahto invited a Tillinghast hopped on an Amtrak train and paid a visit to the New-York Histor- bers and was $5 million in debt. Mr. expert to examine the course for evi- ical Society. In the archives there Zucker paid $12.5 million for it in all. dence of Mr. Tillinghast’s handi- Berlin bage juice and purple curry. he located the records of the Har- What appealed to Mr. Zucker work. He found none. In the index of By Craig Winneker An efficient and almost surreally monie Club, the German-Jewish most about the club: North Shore’s his Macdonald biography, Mr. Bahto OU WILL NEVER get oys- calm kitchen, presided over by two Manhattan social club dating from course was designed by A.W. Tilling- gave full credit for North Shore to ters from my kitchen,” bonsai trees, opens onto Ma’s din- Mr. Raynor—not that anyone at the 1852 that started North Shore. “Y hast, whose other famous creations “I fully expected to find docu-
        says Berlin chef Tim ing room, where sleek slate-grey- nearby include Bethpage Black, club seemed to notice. (Mr. Mac- Raue, “because I hate oysters.” and-gold tables surround a huge ter- ments connecting Tillinghast to the
                  Winged Foot and Baltusrol, all of donald by 1914 had stopped taking That’s not a boast you expect to racotta Chinese Han-dynasty era golf course. There had to be some                   which have hosted U.S. Opens. on most new assignments, but lived               hear from a gourmet chef, especially (202 B.C.-A.D. 220) horse. Mr. nearby and no doubt consulted on reason he had been known as the But within two weeks of the pur- architect without dispute for all     !"#  $          %   one with two Michelin stars and a Raue’s flagship restaurant, Ma sits the project, Mr. Bahto said.)           &  '   chase, he began hearing rumors closet full of toques from Gault at the nucleus of a larger restaurant In his posting at GolfClubAtlas. those years,” Mr. Shaffer told me.  ()""" *     $       that maybe Mr. Tillinghast hadn’t   +
  #              Millau, the prestigious French res- operation that includes his adjoin- com, Mr. Bahto didn’t insist on Mr. But he didn’t. Instead, he found evi- dence authorizing payments to Mr.   ,     +   $      +  taurant guide. But Mr. Raue isn’t ing sushi restaurant Uma (whose ta- been the architect after all. “In the Raynor’s authorship at North Shore. beginning, I paid no attention be- Raynor, and an official thank you, $ -    ))         your typical culinary genius. And bles form a kind of less-formal pe- Rather, he posed the question to the )          *            in 1916, to him, Mr. Macdonald and oysters aren’t the only things you rimeter around the centrally lo- cause I didn’t believe it,” he said. community: “Tillinghast—Raynor? If      .    /            Robert White, the course superin-                       will find missing from his menu. cated Ma space) and Shochu bar. When the rumors persisted, Mr. you get a chance check it and judge.” tendent, for creating the course.                 (0 At his Ma Restaurant in the Ger- The restaurant business, he says, Zucker asked Mark Hissey, a golf By the end of the next week he     1-. *            As a courtesy, Mr. Shaffer pre- man capital’s famed Hotel Adlon “is a kind of theater. You want your consultant he had already retained had more than a hundred replies. 2     333             Kempinski, Mr. Raue has banished dishes to entertain.” To Mr. Raue, to help plan improvements for the sented his findings to the club be- $                #    Several posters attached copies of                  starch altogether—no brot,no this means challenging the diner club, to investigate. “My goal is to fore posting them at GolfClubAtlas. articles from the period and blurry com. Mr. Hissey later paid his own              (       nudeln,nokartoffeln. What’s more, with unusual and provocative com- make North Shore one of the top         3           early photographs of the holes. A visit to the New-York Historical So- his cuisine is completely gluten-free binations of ingredients. Each courses in country, but given the    +
   4 +   1 
       $5+ number referenced the official his- ciety, thoroughly searched North and lactose-free, something almost course in his seasonal tasting menu controversy about who the origi- .  6!                  7  tory of golf clubs in the New York Shore’s archives and contacted a       89           unheard of in Michelin-starred res- takes the diner further along an in- nal designer was, we had to know area, which provided such details *    

Jason McGlade for The Wall Street Journal slew of golf historians. He, too, has taurants, where flour, butter and triguing adventure. the truth and issue a definitive as the $75,000 fee supposedly paid been unable to unearth any refer-
           : cream play key roles. “A famous food photographer statement,” Mr. Zucker said.


    to Mr. Tillinghast for design and ence to Mr. Tillinghast’s involve- What you will find at Ma is Asian- Waldorf salad features truffle slices tive, took up cooking almost by acci- was just in my restaurant,” Mr. Mr. Hissey quickly discovered          !"#$ # construction. A few sleuths theo- ment, nor any evidence for why he     %& inspired cooking full of originality, and crunchy black beans among tart dent. He grew up in a rough part of Raue says, “and he complained to the source of the rumors: a Web site, rized that the Raynor-like greens got credit. daring and nutrition that still man- apples and celery. Jumbo shrimp the city’s Kreuzberg neighborhood, me, saying, ‘I just had six courses, well-known among aficionados of remained from an earlier course on Mr. Zucker now accepts that ages to taste good. As opinionated are grilled with kumquat and where he was a member of a notori- and normally a menu starts and golf-course architecture, called Golf- the site co-designed by Devereux Messrs. Raynor and Macdonald are UNITED STATES SPAIN and energetic as he is ambitious, Mr. chives, and served with krupuk ous youth gang. But a high-school there are one or two highlights, and ClubAtlas.com. “North Shore CC on Emmet, who had worked with the architects of the course he Raue aims to do more than just dust, spicy sauce and passion fruit. counselor noticed that Mr. Raue’s re- here I had six highlights. For me it Long Island is an interesting story— Messrs. Raynor and Macdonald at bought. In June a tribute course to gorge his customers on luxurious Slices of impossibly tender Wagyu bellious nature had an ambitious was too much.’ ” Mr. Macdonald will open at Bandon preparations of expensive ingredi- beef rib come surrounded by tiny side, and suggested the restaurant At Ma, Mr. Raue says, “you can- Arbitrage Dunes in Oregon, and Mr. Zucker SEDONA AZ at your feet Brussels sprouts stuffed with a business might fit his creative, hard- not rest. There is not one course has just hired Tom Doak and Jim Spectacular red rocks from every room, cream made from lovage (a variant working personality. where you can talk with friends and Urbina, that course’s co-designers, walls of glass, quiet, gated community. 3 Each dish at Ma is calibrated to maximize not just flavor of celery), and topped with grape Even now, Mr. Raue seems to eat with one spoon and say ‘I’m not Salvatore Ferragamo bed, 3.5 bath plus den. $1,350,000. Be a to revitalize North Shore. LAND BARON income rentals from 10 near- slices. A pre-dessert palate- look at cooking less from a gourmet interested [in the meal].’ The chef “I’m amazed how all the most but also the diner’s physical and spiritual well-being. cleanser arrives on a stick—a goat’s or foodie perspective than from an has a character. And he is putting silk tie by properties for additional $1,200,000. 1- knowledgeable people in golf, for 928-282-1775 [email protected] milk, fennel and pineapple popsicle artistic one. He often finds inspira- his character on the plate, directly Local so many years, made the assump- coated in white chocolate. Lactose tion for new recipes in unusual on your palate.” City currency Œ tion that because everyone else ents. He wants to feed their heads as intolerance was never this fun. places, such as the shape and color That attitude has paid off, and said Tillinghast was involved, that well as their stomachs with what he
 
    It may seem odd for a top chef to of a plate—or, in one recent exam- Mr. Raue has risen quickly to the London £99 Œ111 it must be true,” Mr. Zucker said.              calls “new flavors and the balance forego such culinary standbys as ple, a Kenzo towel. profession’s top tier. Previously GolfClubAtlas.com, meanwhile,         of food, body and soul.” crème fraiche and pastry, but Mr. “It was hand-embroidered,” he chef at the Swissôtel Berlin’s ac- Frankfurt Œ115 Œ115 has another intriguing thread shap-          Each dish at Ma is calibrated to Raue says dairy and gluten “are not says, “a big picture, artisanal, with claimed Restaurant 44, he now      Paris Œ115 Œ115 ing up. A respected member has said maximize not just flavor but also a must” in gourmet cuisine. His be- flowers. It was so great. It was done runs six establishments located in that he will soon post research sug-   !"#$ %& the diner’s physical and spiritual liefs stem from a philosophy of in green and purple and pink.” The and around the Hotel Adlon with Rome Œ115 Œ115 gesting that the esteemed San Fran-


     well-being. This produces some un- healthy eating, and a desire to towel’s mix of colors inspired Mr. his wife, Marie-Anne, who also cisco Golf Club wasn’t originally de-
    
 

 
 usual combinations: vegetables please all his customers, including Raue to create a dish of slow- serves as maître d’hôtel, somme- New York $174 Œ130 signed by Mr. Tillinghast, as the club
  

         with fruit; raw with cooked; a citrus those with allergies. roasted octopus with Granny Smith lier and recipe sounding board. Note: Prices, plus taxes, as provided by retailers maintains, but rather by…well, that tang with just about everything. A Mr. Raue, a 36-year-old Berlin na- apple and a jelly made from red cab- In opening Ma a year and a half in each city, averaged and converted into euros. Salvatore Ferragamo for now remains a mystery.

W4 Friday - Sunday, March 26 - 28, 2010 | WEEKEND JOURNAL WEEKEND JOURNAL | Friday - Sunday, March 26 - 28, 2010 W9 v Art Playing with the Rhône

FAVORITE PARLOR game is (1264-1314), the first of the Avi- The art of replicating masterpieces Ato imagine spending the rest gnon popes, would travel to inspect of your life drinking wine from just his newly planted vineyard. The se- one country. The trouble with this cret to Châteauneuf-du-Pape is its little amuse-bouche is that players top soil, which is covered with a naturally favor the country they layer of pebbles; the stones are the were born in. So the New key to its quality. As well as form- Zealanders all opt for Marlborough ing an excellent natural drainage Sauvignon; the Australians choose system, they also absorb the sun’s Barossa Shiraz, while the English, heat during the day. Then, rather well, the English are the exception, like a storage heater, they radiate they almost always go for claret. warmth during the night, which Lately I’ve changed the rules. In helps to ripen the grapes faster. a bid to encourage more creativity, Good Châteauneuf-du-Pape is a I’ve narrowed it down to just one dark, full-bodied, spicy and richly al- coholic wine. It is also pleasantly low in acidity, and tends to mature By Nicole Martinelli Left, Adam Lowe (left) and Naoko Wine quickly, which gives it a delicious, Fukumaru prepare the color references jammy fruit character. Domaine du AST FALL, A GROUP of special- WILL LYONS ists worked late into the night, to make a facsimile of Caravaggio’s Vieux Télégraphe, Château de Beau- Lperched on scaffolding in a Ro- ‘Inspiration of Saint Matthew’ in the castel, M. Chapoutier, Réserve des man church, trying to copy Caravag- church of San Luigi dei Francesi, Rome; country: France. Players of this new Célestins and Domaine de la Prési- gio’s “Inspiration of St. Matthew,” from top to bottom, Grégoire Dupond upscale quiz have to name their fa- dente are my favorites. rendering the image true right (left) and Pedro Miró working in the vored region, the one region they The northern Rhône is where all down to the subject’s dirty feet. Ev- tomb of Tutankhamun in 2009; Mr. Miró would choose above all others to the collectors have flocked to in re- ery night for two weeks, they set up (left), Mr. Dupond and Mr. Lowe scan the drink for the rest of their life. And cent years. Here the wines are a scanner to photograph the Contar- burial chamber; and the laser scanner I’ve made it harder. In a bid to an- made from the Syrah grape and are big, inky black, dense, powerful and elli Chapel paintings, part of a recording the East wall of the chamber. noy the English, I’ve taken out one spicy. In Australia, where Syrah is project to make a facsimile of the ba- of the big three: Bordeaux. Leaving called Shiraz, it has a much more roque master’s works for a research the wine novices fighting it out for forward, fruit-driven flavor with a center in Caravaggio slated to open Champagne and Burgundy,the aficio- predominant blackberry taste. In this September. nados try to impress with their the late ’80s, prices started to Meanwhile, two years ago in Ven- knowledge of the wines of the Jura climb as the world woke up to the ice, a lifesize facsimile of Paolo or by picking something left-field delights of wines produced from Veronese’s monumental work “Wed- like Bandol. Me, I’m predictable. I al- such Rhône villages as Côte Rôtie, ding at Cana” drew 20,000 visitors in most always opt for the Rhône. Crozes Hermitage, Saint-Joseph and three months, while the real 16th- Why? Well, since we’re not having Hermitage, where the wines can century masterpiece is often ignored dinner together, I’ll tell you. take on a sweetish, raspberry char- by tourists waiting to see the “Mona Partly it’s nostalgia. We used to acter. I have also noted tones such Lisa” at the Louvre museum in Paris. drink a lot of wines from the as violets, bacon, raspberry and Another state-of-the art Rhône when I was growing up. leather. These wines show at their copy—of Leonardo da Vinci’s “Last Mainly from the hotter, flatter best after around a decade cellar- Supper” in Milan—attracted nearly southern Rhône, which produces ing. Château d’Ampuis, Domaine 55,000visitorsto anexhibitsopopu- lighter, more herbal, blended wine Jamet, Michel Chapoutier, Bernard lar the dates were extended twice. It than its cousins in the northern Levet and Jean-Louis Chave are was an unexpected hit born out of Rhône. These wines were earthy, worth a look. compromise. Director Peter Green- hearty red blends based on Gren- But the Rhône isn’t all about awaywasaskedtocreateashortfilm ago, Mr. Raue says, he wanted to ache, Syrah and Mourvèdre, al- red wine. In recent years I have to project over the original Renais- make a break from the prevailing though the blend can include any- been impressed with the growing sancefrescoatSantaMariadelleGra- culinary traditions in his country. number of exotic white wines pro- zie but officials got cold feet about “All the German chefs of my genera- thing up to 23 different grape vari- eties, from villages such as Gigon- duced in the region. One grape vari- crowds and conservation. His tion, we’re absolutely based in ety to look out for is Viognier, 20-minute short was projected only France and in French cuisine,” he das and Vacqueyras. There’s also the wealth of stories this region grown mainly in the northern once over the original to a handful of says. “Our star chefs have a basis in Rhône appellation of Condrieu. In throws up. Take southern Rhône’s dignitaries during the 2008 Interna- France. I wanted to change this.” the glass it takes on a pale, gold most famous wine, Châteauneuf-du- tional Milan Furniture Fair. Shown At Ma his cooking combines Chi- hue, exuding a heady, floral aroma. Pape, as an example. over a high-resolution copy at nese ideas about dietary balance It can often appear sweet, with its nearby Palazzo Reale, the installa- with Japanese obsession with pre- This wine, exceptionally easy to flowery nose reminiscent of tion stayed open for five months. mium-quality ingredients and the identify due to its prominent crest peaches and honeysuckle. But Whethertorewritehistoryorrein- Thai penchant for intense flavor on the front of every bottle, hails once in the mouth, there is a terpret masterpieces, replicas made achieved by cooking quickly in a from the enormous vineyard area zesty, apricot flavor. with a palette of high-tech tools are wok. And, he says, he is always mind- that lies between Orange and Avi- With Europe thawing from one changing the way tourists see art. ful of whether a dish is healthy. gnon, on the eastern side of the of the coldest winters on record, All three of these faithful fakes “What I’m interested in is the Rhône river. It takes its name from there is still time to enjoy these are the work of Madrid-based Fac- Chinese philosophy of eating,” he the old papal village that straddles wines before the hot summer tum Arte, a company that employs says, “the idea they have that every- Opposite, Tim Raue; Top, the restaurant’s terracotta Chinese horse dates a hill not far from Avignon. The vil- months leave you hankering for high-resolution 3-D scanners of its thing you eat makes sense to your from the Han Dynasty (202 B.C.-A.D. 220) and was ‘bloody expensive,’ says lage was where Pope Clement V something a little lighter. body, to your needs—what you owndevisingtoreproduceartworks. Mr. Raue; above, duck-liver terrine, shiso leaf and Granny Smith apple with need to get energy, to be balanced, The scans result in thousands of Chinese barbecue sauce; below, eggplant, XO sauce and coriander cress. to be fit, to cool down in the sum- files whose images are stitched to- mer, to warm up in the winter.” gether, then churned out by flatbed That palate-cleansing popsicle, pigment printer onto canvas primed Alicia Guirao (4) in other words, is more than just a with historically accurate paints. To delicious little joke designed to DRINKING NOW real attractions that are too fragile to 1980s; Nefertari’s tomb is only visi- team of about 10 will travel around searchers believe that Caravaggio get the clone closer to the real thing, give the taste buds a much needed endure the harmful carbon dioxide ble by special appointment. Italy, scanning Caravaggio’s works, employed some kind of optical de- conservators fill in any ridges or cool-down. Mr. Raue says the lac- from the mouths of awed tourists. for the research center set to open vice to create the dramatic perspec- creases from manhandling or resto- The replica burial chamber and tose-free goat’s milk and pineapple this fall in the northern town that tivethatdazzledtheartworld—athe- Crozes Hermitage ration by hand afterward. Factum Arte’s most ambitious sarcophagus of King Tut’s tomb are also help to digest the spicy Founded by painters Adam Lowe project, recreating the tombs of the crown jewels at the renovated gave Michelangelo Merisi his ory that has long been debated. chicken and beef from the two pre- Domaine de Thalabert and Manuel Franquelo, Factum Arte Menmaatre Seti I, Nefertari and Tut- CairoChildMuseum,whichreopened byname, Caravaggio. Nonprofit cul- The team found traces of inci- vious courses. now employs 30 specialists, with of- ankhamun in Egypt’s Valley of the in January. As the real tomb under- tural institution Fondazione Gior- sions made on a preliminary layer of “No one is talking in the West- Paul Jaboulet, Rhône Valley fices in London and Madrid. The Kings for the Supreme Council of An- goes a five-year restoration begun in gio Cini, also behind the Veronese the canvas—here around the edge ern world about the philosophy of company’s first major project was a tiquities, or SCA, may be where this November 2009, visitors may find project, backs the Caravaggio work of a leg, there around a hand—per- food: why we eat what we eat,” he Vintage: 2005 facsimile of Spain’s Altamira cave future takes shape. they get a better gander at the 3,000 along with local government. haps evidence that the painter did, says. “They may look at it if they’re completed in 2001. The cave, whose “Here, tourists concentrate on year-old-paintings from the replica. “The work can be very repeti- in fact, use guides to paint. thinking of going on a diet. But if Price: about £20 or Œ22 ceiling dances with Paleolithic draw- visiting certain tombs—especially Meanwhile in Rome, the Factum tive. It can sometimes take us as They’ll be looking for the same they’re healthy or are in good ings of animals, closed in the late the tombs of Tutankhamun, Arteteam ishard atwork ontheCar- long to scan the painting as it did for traces as they scan the next paint- shape, they never look at why they Alcohol content: 13.5% 1970s because carbon dioxide was Ramesses VI, and Horemheb— avaggio project. At 9:30 p.m., when the artist to make the original,” said ing, “The Burial of Saint Lucy” in eat something.” destroying the Unesco heritage site. while others are hardly visited at most Romans are enjoying an after- Grégoire Dupond, head of research Syracuse, Sicily. He even hopes to apply his tem- “We had to overcome a lot of prej- all,” said Zahi Hawass, secretary- dinner stroll, a team of four gets to and recording. “Here, for instance, “In the end, we may have some- platetoGermanfoodinarestaurant Deep cherry red, this 100% Syrah udice at the beginning,” said Mr. general of the SCA, in a statement work at San Luigi dei Francesi. The the church floor is uneven and every thing very exciting,” Mr. Lowe said. he’ll open in the next year that will has alluring fruit, with a restrained, Lowe. “There were a lot of bad, on his Web site last July. “This sacristyisajumbleofwoodenequip- 50 centimeters we have to make “This is exactly the sort of data that feature new interpretations of his theme-parky copies made in the means that some tombs need added ment crates, tall gold candelabras, sure the scanner mast is parallel to can prove how exceedingly high-res- grandmother’s traditional recipes. perfumed nose of dark cherries ’60s and ’70s. We’re not making big protection, while others need to be cables and paints that conservator the painting.” olution recording can very quickly The menu will still be lactose-free, and spice. The palate is powerful, posters. We now have the technol- closed completely in order to save Naoko Fukumaru mixes and holds The resulting in-depth look, one give a deeper understanding of a but even Mr. Raue acknowledges with ripe, structured tannins and ogy that can give people an emo- the ancient paintings.” up in swatches to the original to en- that many scholars would never oth- painting. You can’t do that with just you can’t have a German restaurant tional double-take.” The Seti tomb has been ver- sure the color, depth and finish are erwise get, can provide new insights. a good copy.” without bread and potatoes. deep concentration. Mr. Lowe imagines a near future boten to the general public for con- true to life. One such discovery: after scanning —Nicole Martinelli is a —Craig Winneker is a writer

where facsimiles substitute some servation reasons since the late After the work in Rome is done, a the three paintings in Rome, re- writer based in Milan. based in Brussels. Florian Bolk (3)

W8 Friday - Sunday, March 26 - 28, 2010 | WEEKEND JOURNAL WEEKEND JOURNAL | Friday - Sunday, March 26 - 28, 2010 W5 v Travel

Mapping Clockwise from top left, Simply Fosh; Virginia Hopkins; StockFood; Corbis Mallorca Exploring the island’s exquisite food trails and savoring the scenery

Opposite page, coastline near Banyalbufar; this page, clockwise from left: terrace of Hotel La Residencia; interactive fun at Palma’s Simply Fosh restaurant; the patio of the Forn de la Gloria bakery in Palma; ensaïmadas, the By Paul Ames typical breakfast bun from Mallorca. Photograph by Edward Hicks Palma de Mallorca, Spain HERE AREN’T REALLY any other old bakeries in advance, but on a couple of sundrenched days cruising the mountainous north- to Mr. Camps that my hotel had offered an ensaïmada stuffed with crema Cat- Palma,” says Sebastià Camps, as his daughter Fran- west recently, I found one vineyard and a famed sobrassada maker closed but alana—the renowned Catalan version of crème brûlée—he politely but firmly cisca pulls a tray of hot pies from an antique bread received a warm welcome from half-a-dozen other places. Some charge a small insisted that what I had been served must surely have been crema Mallorquí. oven. “There are some from the 17th or 18th centu- fee for tours and tastings, others are happy to show visitors around free of Leaving the Son Puig vineyards, the road climbs steeply up the moun- ries, but nothing really old like this place.” charge. Unfortunately, the Web site with the agrorutes, www.illesbalearesquali- tains, then descends seaward in a series of heart-stopping hairpins that pro- Tucked away on a narrow lane in the medieval tat.ca, doesn’t allow for easy downloading, but maps can be picked up from vide a powerful reminder that it’s best to swirl and spit any wine you’re of- “Theart of Palma de Mallorca, the Forn de la Gloria bakery dates back to at tourist offices around the island and a GPS can come in very handy. fered to taste along the trail. least the 12th century, Mr. Camps explains. Infused with the comforting Easter is a special time to visit as the islanders take Holy Week very seri- The ancient village of Banyalbufar occupies a spectacular site perched aroma of warm bread and pastries, the little shop is filled with piles of hard- ously. There are solemn religious processions where brotherhoods of peni- above the Mediterranean. Stone terraces carved into the hillsides around it crusted Mallorcan loaves and savory specialties like the cocarroi meat past- tents in brightly colored, high-pointed hoods file though the streets and joy- were once famed for their Malvasia wines, a fragrant tipple so admired by the ies or coca de trempó, an oblong, pizza-like pie topped with spinach, onion, ful Easter Monday pilgrimages such as the one to the medieval Bellever for- kings of Aragon that it is reputed to be one of the reasons Jaume I decided to garlic and tomato. tress overlooking Palma, where up to 20,000 participate with picnics accom- conquer Mallorca in 1229. Disaster hit 100 years ago in the form of the phyllox- Gloria is best known for its ensaïmadas, spirals of light, sugar-dusted panied by folk dancing and a funfair. The towns of Artà, Pollença Felanitx era insect pest that spread from mainland Europe and wiped out production, pastry that form an integral part of the Mallorcan breakfast table. “They say and Sineu are also famed for their Easter festivals. until a group of local farmers revived the tradition in the 1990s by importing ensaïmadas were served when a pope visited Mallorca in the 17th century,” Chef Marc Fosh held a Michelin star at the exclusive Reads hotel in the lee of vines from Italy. Since then they have earned high marks for their Cornet brand Mr. Camps recalls, before adding with some pride, “We once made the big- the mountains in the center of the island before moving to Palma last year. His from Spain’s wine bible, the Guia Peñín (www.malvasiadebanyalbufar.com). gest in the world, 20 meters across.” new restaurant, Simply Fosh, makes full use of the island’s store of natural ingre- “After the vines were killed off, people turned to growing potatoes and Mr. Camps’s bakery may be timeless, but the island of Mallorca has rein- dients while adding pan-Mediterranean touches with dishes such as black rice tomatoes on the terraces,” says Pau Pujosa, one of the five founders of the vented itself several times in recent decades. From bohemian artists’ colony with cuttlefish, saffron aioli and a parmesan-fennel salad or slow-cooked pork Malvasia cooperative. “Producing wine here is hard work because every- in the 1950s to the epicenter of Spain’s sun-sea-and-sangria mass tourism belly with carrot and orange puree and rosemary jus (www.simplyfosh.com). thing has to be done by hand, you can’t get out on those terraces with trac- boom in the ’70s and ’80s, Mallorca has re-emerged over the past couple of “You can’t not be affected by what’s available here on the island, there are tors, but we wanted to do it because we knew we could make a quality wine.” years as a hip short-break destination and exclusive getaway for the rich and some great products,” says Mr. Fosh, a Londoner whose cool, urban restaurant The road along Mallorca’s north coast from Banyalbufar to the great famous, replete with chic boutique hotels and a galaxy of celebrity residents. is one of the most sought-after tables in the capital. He doesn’t need to go far to gorge and beach of Sa Calobra has to be one of the most scenic in Europe. It The island has also undergone a culinary makeover. The posh new Mal- find his ingredients since Palma’s Olivar food market is just around the corner, swerves past Chopin’s old home in Valldemossa, the little town of Sóller set lorca has little time for the fish-and-chip shops, tandoori houses and döner providing a sensory assault course with its halls filled with a bewildering vari- amid orange and olive trees, and the terracotta village of Fornalutx. At sun- kebab joints that sprang up to cater to the Brits and Germans who flocked to ety of locally caught fish, kaleidoscopes of seasonal fruit and veg, plus charcute- set, each curve offers a different vista of rugged peaks stained red or gold, the package resorts. Instead, it has rie counters laden with piquant botifarron blood puddings and varia negra—a or the sapphire waters below. embraced a new wave of chefs who spherical black sausage the size and consistency of a greased cannon ball. Amid all this splendor, the village of Deià stands out. Against a soaring have mostly come from outside but The road climbs steeply up the mountains, Mr. Fosh says his cooking has been transformed by his contact with the mountain backdrop, this cluster of stone houses around the little hilltop have revitalized Mallorca’s unique natural products on the island where he’s lived for 14 years, but he notes church sits above a rocky cove and offers magnificent views up the coast. take on Mediterranean cuisine. then descends seaward in a series of heart- that the interaction has been two-way. “The restaurants and the chefs who Deià has been an artists’ retreat since the 1920s, when the British poet Rob- A great way to get to the roots of stopping hairpins that provide a powerful have come in and opened up and tried to push Mallorcan gastronomy for- ert Graves set up home here. These days, it’s encrusted with celebrity the local cuisine is to follow the so- ward and to freshen it up a little bit have had a big influence on local grow- homes and some discreetly luxurious hotels. Photos of recent guests at the called agrorutes, mapped out by reminder that it’s best to swirl and spit any ers,” he says. “The wine industry has come on amazingly over the past 10 plush La Residencia hotel include the likes of Bono, Gwyneth Paltrow and the Balearic Island authorities to years as well. Olive oil is a great example as well of that change.” the hotel’s former owner, Richard Branson, while Michael Douglas and lead visitors to dozens of wineries, wine you’re offered to taste along the trail. Following the agrorutes enables visitors to discover these culinary trea- Catherine Zeta-Jones, and composer Andrew Lloyd Webber are among the olive-oil presses, organic-fruit farm- sures for themselves. I headed northwest out of Palma on a early spring morn- stars with homes nearby (www.hotel-laresidencia.com). ers and ensaïmada bakers squeezed into the 3,600 square kilometers of often ing along a country road that winds though citrus groves laden with fruit and Deià has naturally become one of the island’s gastronomic hubs, with a knot stunning scenery that comprise the island. There are also routes indicating almond trees blanketed with white blossom. It took just minutes to reach the of upper-crust eateries like Xelini, El Olivo, Jaume or Béns D’Avall, which has traditional restaurants serving rustic island favorites like mountain rabbit first vineyards on south-facing foothills of the Serra de Tramutana mountains. the tables with the best view. Currently top of the tree is Es Racó d’es Teix, run with sweet white onion; the potato and lamb’s liver fry-up known as frito Mal- The Bodega Son Puig is a magnificent country house built around a tower by German Michelin-star laureate Josef Sauerschell (www.esracodesteix.es). lorquin;ortumbet—a red pepper, eggplant and potato bake. Other routes are that dates back to the Middle Ages. Ramon Alabern Montis says his family After 26 years on Mallorca, Mr. Sauerschell encapsulates the spirit of dedicated to cheese dairies or sobrassada—a deep-red, paprika-spiced sau- took over the estate in 1926 but he only recently revived its wine-making tradi- many of the chefs who like to give an international twist to local cuisine that sage that rivals ensaïmada as the food closest to the islanders’ hearts. tion, blending local grapes like Callet and Premsal Blanc with French and Span- has inspired them. “Any decent cook would have to take advantage of all the These self-drive trails take foodie travelers well away from the south coast ish mainland varieties such as Chardonnay and Tempranillo (www.sonpuig. great products he’s got around him on this island,” Mr. Sauerschell says. beach resorts to the backstreets of medieval Palma, through forests of pine and com). Mr. Alabern Montis offered a tour of the house and a taste of his fine red “There are some things I like to use from outside, like foie gras or truffles. ... holm oak, across the fertile central plain and up into the northern mountains, and white wines while explaining the history of the place in a mixture of Span- But the fish here is great, the fruit and vegetables are great, the meat like which plunge dramatically to the sea 1,000 meters below. Rather than follow ish and Mallorquí—a dialect of Catalan that is spoken on the island. Like the young lamb, suckling pig. The wine and olive oil are of the highest quality. the trail of a particular product, drivers can also take a regional route, visiting a language, Mallorcan cooking carries influences from the Catalan coast, but You just have everything here.”

range of producers in one part of the island. It can be pot luck if you don’t call in locals love to stress the unique nature of the island cuisine. When I mentioned —Paul Ames is a writer based in Brussels. Maps Illustrated

W6 Friday - Sunday, March 26 - 28, 2010 | WEEKEND JOURNAL WEEKEND JOURNAL | Friday - Sunday, March 26 - 28, 2010 W7 v Travel

Mapping Clockwise from top left, Simply Fosh; Virginia Hopkins; StockFood; Corbis Mallorca Exploring the island’s exquisite food trails and savoring the scenery

Opposite page, coastline near Banyalbufar; this page, clockwise from left: terrace of Hotel La Residencia; interactive fun at Palma’s Simply Fosh restaurant; the patio of the Forn de la Gloria bakery in Palma; ensaïmadas, the By Paul Ames typical breakfast bun from Mallorca. Photograph by Edward Hicks Palma de Mallorca, Spain HERE AREN’T REALLY any other old bakeries in advance, but on a couple of sundrenched days cruising the mountainous north- to Mr. Camps that my hotel had offered an ensaïmada stuffed with crema Cat- Palma,” says Sebastià Camps, as his daughter Fran- west recently, I found one vineyard and a famed sobrassada maker closed but alana—the renowned Catalan version of crème brûlée—he politely but firmly cisca pulls a tray of hot pies from an antique bread received a warm welcome from half-a-dozen other places. Some charge a small insisted that what I had been served must surely have been crema Mallorquí. oven. “There are some from the 17th or 18th centu- fee for tours and tastings, others are happy to show visitors around free of Leaving the Son Puig vineyards, the road climbs steeply up the moun- ries, but nothing really old like this place.” charge. Unfortunately, the Web site with the agrorutes, www.illesbalearesquali- tains, then descends seaward in a series of heart-stopping hairpins that pro- Tucked away on a narrow lane in the medieval tat.ca, doesn’t allow for easy downloading, but maps can be picked up from vide a powerful reminder that it’s best to swirl and spit any wine you’re of- “Theart of Palma de Mallorca, the Forn de la Gloria bakery dates back to at tourist offices around the island and a GPS can come in very handy. fered to taste along the trail. least the 12th century, Mr. Camps explains. Infused with the comforting Easter is a special time to visit as the islanders take Holy Week very seri- The ancient village of Banyalbufar occupies a spectacular site perched aroma of warm bread and pastries, the little shop is filled with piles of hard- ously. There are solemn religious processions where brotherhoods of peni- above the Mediterranean. Stone terraces carved into the hillsides around it crusted Mallorcan loaves and savory specialties like the cocarroi meat past- tents in brightly colored, high-pointed hoods file though the streets and joy- were once famed for their Malvasia wines, a fragrant tipple so admired by the ies or coca de trempó, an oblong, pizza-like pie topped with spinach, onion, ful Easter Monday pilgrimages such as the one to the medieval Bellever for- kings of Aragon that it is reputed to be one of the reasons Jaume I decided to garlic and tomato. tress overlooking Palma, where up to 20,000 participate with picnics accom- conquer Mallorca in 1229. Disaster hit 100 years ago in the form of the phyllox- Gloria is best known for its ensaïmadas, spirals of light, sugar-dusted panied by folk dancing and a funfair. The towns of Artà, Pollença Felanitx era insect pest that spread from mainland Europe and wiped out production, pastry that form an integral part of the Mallorcan breakfast table. “They say and Sineu are also famed for their Easter festivals. until a group of local farmers revived the tradition in the 1990s by importing ensaïmadas were served when a pope visited Mallorca in the 17th century,” Chef Marc Fosh held a Michelin star at the exclusive Reads hotel in the lee of vines from Italy. Since then they have earned high marks for their Cornet brand Mr. Camps recalls, before adding with some pride, “We once made the big- the mountains in the center of the island before moving to Palma last year. His from Spain’s wine bible, the Guia Peñín (www.malvasiadebanyalbufar.com). gest in the world, 20 meters across.” new restaurant, Simply Fosh, makes full use of the island’s store of natural ingre- “After the vines were killed off, people turned to growing potatoes and Mr. Camps’s bakery may be timeless, but the island of Mallorca has rein- dients while adding pan-Mediterranean touches with dishes such as black rice tomatoes on the terraces,” says Pau Pujosa, one of the five founders of the vented itself several times in recent decades. From bohemian artists’ colony with cuttlefish, saffron aioli and a parmesan-fennel salad or slow-cooked pork Malvasia cooperative. “Producing wine here is hard work because every- in the 1950s to the epicenter of Spain’s sun-sea-and-sangria mass tourism belly with carrot and orange puree and rosemary jus (www.simplyfosh.com). thing has to be done by hand, you can’t get out on those terraces with trac- boom in the ’70s and ’80s, Mallorca has re-emerged over the past couple of “You can’t not be affected by what’s available here on the island, there are tors, but we wanted to do it because we knew we could make a quality wine.” years as a hip short-break destination and exclusive getaway for the rich and some great products,” says Mr. Fosh, a Londoner whose cool, urban restaurant The road along Mallorca’s north coast from Banyalbufar to the great famous, replete with chic boutique hotels and a galaxy of celebrity residents. is one of the most sought-after tables in the capital. He doesn’t need to go far to gorge and beach of Sa Calobra has to be one of the most scenic in Europe. It The island has also undergone a culinary makeover. The posh new Mal- find his ingredients since Palma’s Olivar food market is just around the corner, swerves past Chopin’s old home in Valldemossa, the little town of Sóller set lorca has little time for the fish-and-chip shops, tandoori houses and döner providing a sensory assault course with its halls filled with a bewildering vari- amid orange and olive trees, and the terracotta village of Fornalutx. At sun- kebab joints that sprang up to cater to the Brits and Germans who flocked to ety of locally caught fish, kaleidoscopes of seasonal fruit and veg, plus charcute- set, each curve offers a different vista of rugged peaks stained red or gold, the package resorts. Instead, it has rie counters laden with piquant botifarron blood puddings and varia negra—a or the sapphire waters below. embraced a new wave of chefs who spherical black sausage the size and consistency of a greased cannon ball. Amid all this splendor, the village of Deià stands out. Against a soaring have mostly come from outside but The road climbs steeply up the mountains, Mr. Fosh says his cooking has been transformed by his contact with the mountain backdrop, this cluster of stone houses around the little hilltop have revitalized Mallorca’s unique natural products on the island where he’s lived for 14 years, but he notes church sits above a rocky cove and offers magnificent views up the coast. take on Mediterranean cuisine. then descends seaward in a series of heart- that the interaction has been two-way. “The restaurants and the chefs who Deià has been an artists’ retreat since the 1920s, when the British poet Rob- A great way to get to the roots of stopping hairpins that provide a powerful have come in and opened up and tried to push Mallorcan gastronomy for- ert Graves set up home here. These days, it’s encrusted with celebrity the local cuisine is to follow the so- ward and to freshen it up a little bit have had a big influence on local grow- homes and some discreetly luxurious hotels. Photos of recent guests at the called agrorutes, mapped out by reminder that it’s best to swirl and spit any ers,” he says. “The wine industry has come on amazingly over the past 10 plush La Residencia hotel include the likes of Bono, Gwyneth Paltrow and the Balearic Island authorities to years as well. Olive oil is a great example as well of that change.” the hotel’s former owner, Richard Branson, while Michael Douglas and lead visitors to dozens of wineries, wine you’re offered to taste along the trail. Following the agrorutes enables visitors to discover these culinary trea- Catherine Zeta-Jones, and composer Andrew Lloyd Webber are among the olive-oil presses, organic-fruit farm- sures for themselves. I headed northwest out of Palma on a early spring morn- stars with homes nearby (www.hotel-laresidencia.com). ers and ensaïmada bakers squeezed into the 3,600 square kilometers of often ing along a country road that winds though citrus groves laden with fruit and Deià has naturally become one of the island’s gastronomic hubs, with a knot stunning scenery that comprise the island. There are also routes indicating almond trees blanketed with white blossom. It took just minutes to reach the of upper-crust eateries like Xelini, El Olivo, Jaume or Béns D’Avall, which has traditional restaurants serving rustic island favorites like mountain rabbit first vineyards on south-facing foothills of the Serra de Tramutana mountains. the tables with the best view. Currently top of the tree is Es Racó d’es Teix, run with sweet white onion; the potato and lamb’s liver fry-up known as frito Mal- The Bodega Son Puig is a magnificent country house built around a tower by German Michelin-star laureate Josef Sauerschell (www.esracodesteix.es). lorquin;ortumbet—a red pepper, eggplant and potato bake. Other routes are that dates back to the Middle Ages. Ramon Alabern Montis says his family After 26 years on Mallorca, Mr. Sauerschell encapsulates the spirit of dedicated to cheese dairies or sobrassada—a deep-red, paprika-spiced sau- took over the estate in 1926 but he only recently revived its wine-making tradi- many of the chefs who like to give an international twist to local cuisine that sage that rivals ensaïmada as the food closest to the islanders’ hearts. tion, blending local grapes like Callet and Premsal Blanc with French and Span- has inspired them. “Any decent cook would have to take advantage of all the These self-drive trails take foodie travelers well away from the south coast ish mainland varieties such as Chardonnay and Tempranillo (www.sonpuig. great products he’s got around him on this island,” Mr. Sauerschell says. beach resorts to the backstreets of medieval Palma, through forests of pine and com). Mr. Alabern Montis offered a tour of the house and a taste of his fine red “There are some things I like to use from outside, like foie gras or truffles. ... holm oak, across the fertile central plain and up into the northern mountains, and white wines while explaining the history of the place in a mixture of Span- But the fish here is great, the fruit and vegetables are great, the meat like which plunge dramatically to the sea 1,000 meters below. Rather than follow ish and Mallorquí—a dialect of Catalan that is spoken on the island. Like the young lamb, suckling pig. The wine and olive oil are of the highest quality. the trail of a particular product, drivers can also take a regional route, visiting a language, Mallorcan cooking carries influences from the Catalan coast, but You just have everything here.”

range of producers in one part of the island. It can be pot luck if you don’t call in locals love to stress the unique nature of the island cuisine. When I mentioned —Paul Ames is a writer based in Brussels. Maps Illustrated

W6 Friday - Sunday, March 26 - 28, 2010 | WEEKEND JOURNAL WEEKEND JOURNAL | Friday - Sunday, March 26 - 28, 2010 W7 v Art Playing with the Rhône

FAVORITE PARLOR game is (1264-1314), the first of the Avi- The art of replicating masterpieces Ato imagine spending the rest gnon popes, would travel to inspect of your life drinking wine from just his newly planted vineyard. The se- one country. The trouble with this cret to Châteauneuf-du-Pape is its little amuse-bouche is that players top soil, which is covered with a naturally favor the country they layer of pebbles; the stones are the were born in. So the New key to its quality. As well as form- Zealanders all opt for Marlborough ing an excellent natural drainage Sauvignon; the Australians choose system, they also absorb the sun’s Barossa Shiraz, while the English, heat during the day. Then, rather well, the English are the exception, like a storage heater, they radiate they almost always go for claret. warmth during the night, which Lately I’ve changed the rules. In helps to ripen the grapes faster. a bid to encourage more creativity, Good Châteauneuf-du-Pape is a I’ve narrowed it down to just one dark, full-bodied, spicy and richly al- coholic wine. It is also pleasantly low in acidity, and tends to mature By Nicole Martinelli Left, Adam Lowe (left) and Naoko Wine quickly, which gives it a delicious, Fukumaru prepare the color references jammy fruit character. Domaine du AST FALL, A GROUP of special- WILL LYONS ists worked late into the night, to make a facsimile of Caravaggio’s Vieux Télégraphe, Château de Beau- Lperched on scaffolding in a Ro- ‘Inspiration of Saint Matthew’ in the castel, M. Chapoutier, Réserve des man church, trying to copy Caravag- church of San Luigi dei Francesi, Rome; country: France. Players of this new Célestins and Domaine de la Prési- gio’s “Inspiration of St. Matthew,” from top to bottom, Grégoire Dupond upscale quiz have to name their fa- dente are my favorites. rendering the image true right (left) and Pedro Miró working in the vored region, the one region they The northern Rhône is where all down to the subject’s dirty feet. Ev- tomb of Tutankhamun in 2009; Mr. Miró would choose above all others to the collectors have flocked to in re- ery night for two weeks, they set up (left), Mr. Dupond and Mr. Lowe scan the drink for the rest of their life. And cent years. Here the wines are a scanner to photograph the Contar- burial chamber; and the laser scanner I’ve made it harder. In a bid to an- made from the Syrah grape and are big, inky black, dense, powerful and elli Chapel paintings, part of a recording the East wall of the chamber. noy the English, I’ve taken out one spicy. In Australia, where Syrah is project to make a facsimile of the ba- of the big three: Bordeaux. Leaving called Shiraz, it has a much more roque master’s works for a research the wine novices fighting it out for forward, fruit-driven flavor with a center in Caravaggio slated to open Champagne and Burgundy,the aficio- predominant blackberry taste. In this September. nados try to impress with their the late ’80s, prices started to Meanwhile, two years ago in Ven- knowledge of the wines of the Jura climb as the world woke up to the ice, a lifesize facsimile of Paolo or by picking something left-field delights of wines produced from Veronese’s monumental work “Wed- like Bandol. Me, I’m predictable. I al- such Rhône villages as Côte Rôtie, ding at Cana” drew 20,000 visitors in most always opt for the Rhône. Crozes Hermitage, Saint-Joseph and three months, while the real 16th- Why? Well, since we’re not having Hermitage, where the wines can century masterpiece is often ignored dinner together, I’ll tell you. take on a sweetish, raspberry char- by tourists waiting to see the “Mona Partly it’s nostalgia. We used to acter. I have also noted tones such Lisa” at the Louvre museum in Paris. drink a lot of wines from the as violets, bacon, raspberry and Another state-of-the art Rhône when I was growing up. leather. These wines show at their copy—of Leonardo da Vinci’s “Last Mainly from the hotter, flatter best after around a decade cellar- Supper” in Milan—attracted nearly southern Rhône, which produces ing. Château d’Ampuis, Domaine 55,000visitorsto anexhibitsopopu- lighter, more herbal, blended wine Jamet, Michel Chapoutier, Bernard lar the dates were extended twice. It than its cousins in the northern Levet and Jean-Louis Chave are was an unexpected hit born out of Rhône. These wines were earthy, worth a look. compromise. Director Peter Green- hearty red blends based on Gren- But the Rhône isn’t all about awaywasaskedtocreateashortfilm ago, Mr. Raue says, he wanted to ache, Syrah and Mourvèdre, al- red wine. In recent years I have to project over the original Renais- make a break from the prevailing though the blend can include any- been impressed with the growing sancefrescoatSantaMariadelleGra- culinary traditions in his country. number of exotic white wines pro- zie but officials got cold feet about “All the German chefs of my genera- thing up to 23 different grape vari- eties, from villages such as Gigon- duced in the region. One grape vari- crowds and conservation. His tion, we’re absolutely based in ety to look out for is Viognier, 20-minute short was projected only France and in French cuisine,” he das and Vacqueyras. There’s also the wealth of stories this region grown mainly in the northern once over the original to a handful of says. “Our star chefs have a basis in Rhône appellation of Condrieu. In throws up. Take southern Rhône’s dignitaries during the 2008 Interna- France. I wanted to change this.” the glass it takes on a pale, gold most famous wine, Châteauneuf-du- tional Milan Furniture Fair. Shown At Ma his cooking combines Chi- hue, exuding a heady, floral aroma. Pape, as an example. over a high-resolution copy at nese ideas about dietary balance It can often appear sweet, with its nearby Palazzo Reale, the installa- with Japanese obsession with pre- This wine, exceptionally easy to flowery nose reminiscent of tion stayed open for five months. mium-quality ingredients and the identify due to its prominent crest peaches and honeysuckle. But Whethertorewritehistoryorrein- Thai penchant for intense flavor on the front of every bottle, hails once in the mouth, there is a terpret masterpieces, replicas made achieved by cooking quickly in a from the enormous vineyard area zesty, apricot flavor. with a palette of high-tech tools are wok. And, he says, he is always mind- that lies between Orange and Avi- With Europe thawing from one changing the way tourists see art. ful of whether a dish is healthy. gnon, on the eastern side of the of the coldest winters on record, All three of these faithful fakes “What I’m interested in is the Rhône river. It takes its name from there is still time to enjoy these are the work of Madrid-based Fac- Chinese philosophy of eating,” he the old papal village that straddles wines before the hot summer tum Arte, a company that employs says, “the idea they have that every- Opposite, Tim Raue; Top, the restaurant’s terracotta Chinese horse dates a hill not far from Avignon. The vil- months leave you hankering for high-resolution 3-D scanners of its thing you eat makes sense to your from the Han Dynasty (202 B.C.-A.D. 220) and was ‘bloody expensive,’ says lage was where Pope Clement V something a little lighter. body, to your needs—what you owndevisingtoreproduceartworks. Mr. Raue; above, duck-liver terrine, shiso leaf and Granny Smith apple with need to get energy, to be balanced, The scans result in thousands of Chinese barbecue sauce; below, eggplant, XO sauce and coriander cress. to be fit, to cool down in the sum- files whose images are stitched to- mer, to warm up in the winter.” gether, then churned out by flatbed That palate-cleansing popsicle, pigment printer onto canvas primed Alicia Guirao (4) in other words, is more than just a with historically accurate paints. To delicious little joke designed to DRINKING NOW real attractions that are too fragile to 1980s; Nefertari’s tomb is only visi- team of about 10 will travel around searchers believe that Caravaggio get the clone closer to the real thing, give the taste buds a much needed endure the harmful carbon dioxide ble by special appointment. Italy, scanning Caravaggio’s works, employed some kind of optical de- conservators fill in any ridges or cool-down. Mr. Raue says the lac- from the mouths of awed tourists. for the research center set to open vice to create the dramatic perspec- creases from manhandling or resto- The replica burial chamber and tose-free goat’s milk and pineapple this fall in the northern town that tivethatdazzledtheartworld—athe- Crozes Hermitage ration by hand afterward. Factum Arte’s most ambitious sarcophagus of King Tut’s tomb are also help to digest the spicy Founded by painters Adam Lowe project, recreating the tombs of the crown jewels at the renovated gave Michelangelo Merisi his ory that has long been debated. chicken and beef from the two pre- Domaine de Thalabert and Manuel Franquelo, Factum Arte Menmaatre Seti I, Nefertari and Tut- CairoChildMuseum,whichreopened byname, Caravaggio. Nonprofit cul- The team found traces of inci- vious courses. now employs 30 specialists, with of- ankhamun in Egypt’s Valley of the in January. As the real tomb under- tural institution Fondazione Gior- sions made on a preliminary layer of “No one is talking in the West- Paul Jaboulet, Rhône Valley fices in London and Madrid. The Kings for the Supreme Council of An- goes a five-year restoration begun in gio Cini, also behind the Veronese the canvas—here around the edge ern world about the philosophy of company’s first major project was a tiquities, or SCA, may be where this November 2009, visitors may find project, backs the Caravaggio work of a leg, there around a hand—per- food: why we eat what we eat,” he Vintage: 2005 facsimile of Spain’s Altamira cave future takes shape. they get a better gander at the 3,000 along with local government. haps evidence that the painter did, says. “They may look at it if they’re completed in 2001. The cave, whose “Here, tourists concentrate on year-old-paintings from the replica. “The work can be very repeti- in fact, use guides to paint. thinking of going on a diet. But if Price: about £20 or Œ22 ceiling dances with Paleolithic draw- visiting certain tombs—especially Meanwhile in Rome, the Factum tive. It can sometimes take us as They’ll be looking for the same they’re healthy or are in good ings of animals, closed in the late the tombs of Tutankhamun, Arteteam ishard atwork ontheCar- long to scan the painting as it did for traces as they scan the next paint- shape, they never look at why they Alcohol content: 13.5% 1970s because carbon dioxide was Ramesses VI, and Horemheb— avaggio project. At 9:30 p.m., when the artist to make the original,” said ing, “The Burial of Saint Lucy” in eat something.” destroying the Unesco heritage site. while others are hardly visited at most Romans are enjoying an after- Grégoire Dupond, head of research Syracuse, Sicily. He even hopes to apply his tem- “We had to overcome a lot of prej- all,” said Zahi Hawass, secretary- dinner stroll, a team of four gets to and recording. “Here, for instance, “In the end, we may have some- platetoGermanfoodinarestaurant Deep cherry red, this 100% Syrah udice at the beginning,” said Mr. general of the SCA, in a statement work at San Luigi dei Francesi. The the church floor is uneven and every thing very exciting,” Mr. Lowe said. he’ll open in the next year that will has alluring fruit, with a restrained, Lowe. “There were a lot of bad, on his Web site last July. “This sacristyisajumbleofwoodenequip- 50 centimeters we have to make “This is exactly the sort of data that feature new interpretations of his theme-parky copies made in the means that some tombs need added ment crates, tall gold candelabras, sure the scanner mast is parallel to can prove how exceedingly high-res- grandmother’s traditional recipes. perfumed nose of dark cherries ’60s and ’70s. We’re not making big protection, while others need to be cables and paints that conservator the painting.” olution recording can very quickly The menu will still be lactose-free, and spice. The palate is powerful, posters. We now have the technol- closed completely in order to save Naoko Fukumaru mixes and holds The resulting in-depth look, one give a deeper understanding of a but even Mr. Raue acknowledges with ripe, structured tannins and ogy that can give people an emo- the ancient paintings.” up in swatches to the original to en- that many scholars would never oth- painting. You can’t do that with just you can’t have a German restaurant tional double-take.” The Seti tomb has been ver- sure the color, depth and finish are erwise get, can provide new insights. a good copy.” without bread and potatoes. deep concentration. Mr. Lowe imagines a near future boten to the general public for con- true to life. One such discovery: after scanning —Nicole Martinelli is a —Craig Winneker is a writer

where facsimiles substitute some servation reasons since the late After the work in Rome is done, a the three paintings in Rome, re- writer based in Milan. based in Brussels. Florian Bolk (3)

W8 Friday - Sunday, March 26 - 28, 2010 | WEEKEND JOURNAL WEEKEND JOURNAL | Friday - Sunday, March 26 - 28, 2010 W5 v Food & Wine v Sport Lost in history: Inspired cuisine A golf whodunit An unusual twist, Tim Raue’s Ma restaurant works without gluten or lactose Glen Head, N.Y. one I was involved with a few years ONALD ZUCKER WAS elated ago,” began a thread on Nov. 25 by when he signed the paper- George Bahto, a golf-course design Dwork last fall giving him ti- and construction expert. tle to North Shore Country Club. Several years ago, he wrote, Mr. Zucker, 78 years old, is a lean, that an acquaintance advised him energetic New York City real-estate to take a look at North Shore be- developer who fell in love with golf cause “it looks a lot like it was built in his 50s and took his first lessons by one of your guys.” The reference at North Shore, a 96-year-old club was to two other famous early golf overlooking an inlet of Long Island architects, Charles Blair Mac- donald, about whom Mr. Bahto wrote the biography “Evangelist of Golf Golf,” and Seth Raynor, whose biog- JOHN PAUL NEWPORT raphy he is now writing. Mr. Bahto soon visited North Shore and came away convinced Sound about 25 kilometers from that the greens were the work of Manhattan. He belongs to five Mr. Raynor, who during the course’s clubs and considers himself a golf construction, 1914 to 1916, was just purist. His favorite way to experi- launching his career independent of The ninth hole at North Shore Country Club. ence the game is on foot, carrying Mr. Macdonald. The pair’s most fa- North Shore Country Club a half-set of clubs in a skinny bag. mous collaboration had been Na- For several years, he had been ac- tional Golf Links of America in the National. Even Mr. Bahto began tively looking for a golf club to buy, Southampton on eastern Long Is- to doubt. “Given all this ‘new’ infor- simply for the joy of ownership. A land, which opened in 1909. The mation, I’m taking North Shore off DISTINCTIVE PROPERTIES &ESTATES couple of deals fell through. But holes at the National were rendi- the list of Seth Raynor golf North Shore was the best. The club tions of the greatest holes in Eu- courses,” he wrote at one point. was for sale because the member- rope. The greens at North Shore But by early December the com- ship had been devastated by the re- looked remarkably similar. munal intelligence of the posters UNITED STATES cession. At least 10 families had “No. 14 was a double plateau began to focus on one thing: Not been undone by investments with green, just like No. 11 at the Na- one piece of contemporary evi- Bernard Madoff, and many others tional,” Mr. Bahto told me. “The dence linked Mr. Tillinghast to could no longer afford the annual ninth was a Redan; No. 10 was an North Shore. So on Dec. 4 a con- dues exceeding $23,000 (Œ17,236). Eden. No. 3 was one of the best Road tributor named Steve Shaffer, a re- By the end of last season North Hole greens I’ve seen anywhere.” tired attorney from Philadelphia, Shore had only about 90 golf mem- Mr. Bahto invited a Tillinghast hopped on an Amtrak train and paid a visit to the New-York Histor- bers and was $5 million in debt. Mr. expert to examine the course for evi- ical Society. In the archives there Zucker paid $12.5 million for it in all. dence of Mr. Tillinghast’s handi- Berlin bage juice and purple curry. he located the records of the Har- What appealed to Mr. Zucker work. He found none. In the index of By Craig Winneker An efficient and almost surreally monie Club, the German-Jewish most about the club: North Shore’s his Macdonald biography, Mr. Bahto OU WILL NEVER get oys- calm kitchen, presided over by two Manhattan social club dating from course was designed by A.W. Tilling- gave full credit for North Shore to ters from my kitchen,” bonsai trees, opens onto Ma’s din- Mr. Raynor—not that anyone at the 1852 that started North Shore. “Y hast, whose other famous creations “I fully expected to find docu-
        says Berlin chef Tim ing room, where sleek slate-grey- nearby include Bethpage Black, club seemed to notice. (Mr. Mac- Raue, “because I hate oysters.” and-gold tables surround a huge ter- ments connecting Tillinghast to the
                  Winged Foot and Baltusrol, all of donald by 1914 had stopped taking That’s not a boast you expect to racotta Chinese Han-dynasty era golf course. There had to be some                   which have hosted U.S. Opens. on most new assignments, but lived               hear from a gourmet chef, especially (202 B.C.-A.D. 220) horse. Mr. nearby and no doubt consulted on reason he had been known as the But within two weeks of the pur- architect without dispute for all     !"#  $          %   one with two Michelin stars and a Raue’s flagship restaurant, Ma sits the project, Mr. Bahto said.)           &  '   chase, he began hearing rumors closet full of toques from Gault at the nucleus of a larger restaurant In his posting at GolfClubAtlas. those years,” Mr. Shaffer told me.  ()""" *     $       that maybe Mr. Tillinghast hadn’t   +
  #              Millau, the prestigious French res- operation that includes his adjoin- com, Mr. Bahto didn’t insist on Mr. But he didn’t. Instead, he found evi- dence authorizing payments to Mr.   ,     +   $      +  taurant guide. But Mr. Raue isn’t ing sushi restaurant Uma (whose ta- been the architect after all. “In the Raynor’s authorship at North Shore. beginning, I paid no attention be- Raynor, and an official thank you, $ -    ))         your typical culinary genius. And bles form a kind of less-formal pe- Rather, he posed the question to the )          *            in 1916, to him, Mr. Macdonald and oysters aren’t the only things you rimeter around the centrally lo- cause I didn’t believe it,” he said. community: “Tillinghast—Raynor? If      .    /            Robert White, the course superin-                       will find missing from his menu. cated Ma space) and Shochu bar. When the rumors persisted, Mr. you get a chance check it and judge.” tendent, for creating the course.                 (0 At his Ma Restaurant in the Ger- The restaurant business, he says, Zucker asked Mark Hissey, a golf By the end of the next week he     1-. *            As a courtesy, Mr. Shaffer pre- man capital’s famed Hotel Adlon “is a kind of theater. You want your consultant he had already retained had more than a hundred replies. 2     333             Kempinski, Mr. Raue has banished dishes to entertain.” To Mr. Raue, to help plan improvements for the sented his findings to the club be- $                #    Several posters attached copies of                  starch altogether—no brot,no this means challenging the diner club, to investigate. “My goal is to fore posting them at GolfClubAtlas. articles from the period and blurry com. Mr. Hissey later paid his own              (       nudeln,nokartoffeln. What’s more, with unusual and provocative com- make North Shore one of the top         3           early photographs of the holes. A visit to the New-York Historical So- his cuisine is completely gluten-free binations of ingredients. Each courses in country, but given the    +
   4 +   1 
       $5+ number referenced the official his- ciety, thoroughly searched North and lactose-free, something almost course in his seasonal tasting menu controversy about who the origi- .  6!                  7  tory of golf clubs in the New York Shore’s archives and contacted a       89           unheard of in Michelin-starred res- takes the diner further along an in- nal designer was, we had to know area, which provided such details *    

Jason McGlade for The Wall Street Journal slew of golf historians. He, too, has taurants, where flour, butter and triguing adventure. the truth and issue a definitive as the $75,000 fee supposedly paid been unable to unearth any refer-
           : cream play key roles. “A famous food photographer statement,” Mr. Zucker said.


    to Mr. Tillinghast for design and ence to Mr. Tillinghast’s involve- What you will find at Ma is Asian- Waldorf salad features truffle slices tive, took up cooking almost by acci- was just in my restaurant,” Mr. Mr. Hissey quickly discovered          !"#$ # construction. A few sleuths theo- ment, nor any evidence for why he     %& inspired cooking full of originality, and crunchy black beans among tart dent. He grew up in a rough part of Raue says, “and he complained to the source of the rumors: a Web site, rized that the Raynor-like greens got credit. daring and nutrition that still man- apples and celery. Jumbo shrimp the city’s Kreuzberg neighborhood, me, saying, ‘I just had six courses, well-known among aficionados of remained from an earlier course on Mr. Zucker now accepts that ages to taste good. As opinionated are grilled with kumquat and where he was a member of a notori- and normally a menu starts and golf-course architecture, called Golf- the site co-designed by Devereux Messrs. Raynor and Macdonald are UNITED STATES SPAIN and energetic as he is ambitious, Mr. chives, and served with krupuk ous youth gang. But a high-school there are one or two highlights, and ClubAtlas.com. “North Shore CC on Emmet, who had worked with the architects of the course he Raue aims to do more than just dust, spicy sauce and passion fruit. counselor noticed that Mr. Raue’s re- here I had six highlights. For me it Long Island is an interesting story— Messrs. Raynor and Macdonald at bought. In June a tribute course to gorge his customers on luxurious Slices of impossibly tender Wagyu bellious nature had an ambitious was too much.’ ” Mr. Macdonald will open at Bandon preparations of expensive ingredi- beef rib come surrounded by tiny side, and suggested the restaurant At Ma, Mr. Raue says, “you can- Arbitrage Dunes in Oregon, and Mr. Zucker SEDONA AZ at your feet Brussels sprouts stuffed with a business might fit his creative, hard- not rest. There is not one course has just hired Tom Doak and Jim Spectacular red rocks from every room, cream made from lovage (a variant working personality. where you can talk with friends and Urbina, that course’s co-designers, walls of glass, quiet, gated community. 3 Each dish at Ma is calibrated to maximize not just flavor of celery), and topped with grape Even now, Mr. Raue seems to eat with one spoon and say ‘I’m not Salvatore Ferragamo bed, 3.5 bath plus den. $1,350,000. Be a to revitalize North Shore. LAND BARON income rentals from 10 near- slices. A pre-dessert palate- look at cooking less from a gourmet interested [in the meal].’ The chef “I’m amazed how all the most but also the diner’s physical and spiritual well-being. cleanser arrives on a stick—a goat’s or foodie perspective than from an has a character. And he is putting silk tie by properties for additional $1,200,000. 1- knowledgeable people in golf, for 928-282-1775 [email protected] milk, fennel and pineapple popsicle artistic one. He often finds inspira- his character on the plate, directly Local so many years, made the assump- coated in white chocolate. Lactose tion for new recipes in unusual on your palate.” City currency Œ tion that because everyone else ents. He wants to feed their heads as intolerance was never this fun. places, such as the shape and color That attitude has paid off, and said Tillinghast was involved, that well as their stomachs with what he
 
    It may seem odd for a top chef to of a plate—or, in one recent exam- Mr. Raue has risen quickly to the London £99 Œ111 it must be true,” Mr. Zucker said.              calls “new flavors and the balance forego such culinary standbys as ple, a Kenzo towel. profession’s top tier. Previously GolfClubAtlas.com, meanwhile,         of food, body and soul.” crème fraiche and pastry, but Mr. “It was hand-embroidered,” he chef at the Swissôtel Berlin’s ac- Frankfurt Œ115 Œ115 has another intriguing thread shap-          Each dish at Ma is calibrated to Raue says dairy and gluten “are not says, “a big picture, artisanal, with claimed Restaurant 44, he now      Paris Œ115 Œ115 ing up. A respected member has said maximize not just flavor but also a must” in gourmet cuisine. His be- flowers. It was so great. It was done runs six establishments located in that he will soon post research sug-   !"#$ %& the diner’s physical and spiritual liefs stem from a philosophy of in green and purple and pink.” The and around the Hotel Adlon with Rome Œ115 Œ115 gesting that the esteemed San Fran-


     well-being. This produces some un- healthy eating, and a desire to towel’s mix of colors inspired Mr. his wife, Marie-Anne, who also cisco Golf Club wasn’t originally de-
    
 

 
 usual combinations: vegetables please all his customers, including Raue to create a dish of slow- serves as maître d’hôtel, somme- New York $174 Œ130 signed by Mr. Tillinghast, as the club
  

         with fruit; raw with cooked; a citrus those with allergies. roasted octopus with Granny Smith lier and recipe sounding board. Note: Prices, plus taxes, as provided by retailers maintains, but rather by…well, that tang with just about everything. A Mr. Raue, a 36-year-old Berlin na- apple and a jelly made from red cab- In opening Ma a year and a half in each city, averaged and converted into euros. Salvatore Ferragamo for now remains a mystery.

W4 Friday - Sunday, March 26 - 28, 2010 | WEEKEND JOURNAL WEEKEND JOURNAL | Friday - Sunday, March 26 - 28, 2010 W9 v Top Picks v Interview Energetic ‘Romeo and Juliet’ triumphs

Stratford-upon-Avon: The Romeo, and he moves so elegantly Royal Shakespeare Company ensem- that he’s as beautiful to watch as he Mikkelsen revels in latest scars ble that was put together in 2009 for is to hear speak verse, which he does three years has had its ups and as easily as if it were his ordinary downs. The current riff on “King means of conversing. “Romeo” Lear,” Dennis Kelly’s “The Gods means “pilgrim to Rome” and Mr. Weep” at the Hampstead Theatre, is Goold’s painstaking direction makes a downer. But it’s more than made the most of the lovers’ word-playful up for by the return of Rupert Goold exchange (in Petrarchan sonnet Sotheby’s-ArtDIgital Studio to Stratford as associate director of form, Act 1, scene V) where Romeo A French 19th-century allegorical the RSC with a triumphant produc- says, “My lips, two blushing pil- marble figure of Spring, by Jean ‘Clash of the Titans,’ tion of “Romeo and Juliet.” grims ready stand…” Baptiste Clésinger. The staging is an exceptionally Jonjo O’Neill as Mercutio Estimate: Œ40,000-Œ50,000. ‘Valhalla Rising’ films bold mixture of traditional and con- matches their performances. He temporary. Tom Scutt’s sets open forcefully impresses upon you that cast actor as action hero with a projection of a rose window Mercutio is in the tradition of Shake- Statues, on the Courtyard Theatre’s thrust speare’s fools, partly because of the Copenhagen Refn. Why have you worked with him so stage, and Juliet’s balcony is some- bawdy physicality of his acting. But By Elizabeth Fitzherbert many times? times like the altar of a church, and also because, here again, Mr. Goold fountains ANISH ACTOR MADS MIKKELSEN has Ithinkheisabrilliantdirector.Heisveryrad- sometimes like a giant gold picture allows Mr. O’Neill time to crack jokes faced his biggest challenge since oppos- ical with everything he does. If he is making frame for an Old Master painting. that most productions rush through, in the garden Ding James Bond as the villain, Le Chiffre, somethingrealistichealwaysdoesitextremely Most of Mr. Scutt’s costumes are Re- believing them too obscure to be in “Casino Royale.” Mr. Mikkelsen, 44 years old, realistically, like a documentary style that has naissance, save for the star-crossed Ellie Kurttz funny to today’s audiences. They are appears with armies of monsters and Holly- an edge. It is the exact opposite of TV drama. It lovers themselves. Juliet appears From left: Joseph Arkley (Tybalt), Sam Troughton (Romeo), Gruffudd Glyn (Balthasar). crude; but when you see this energy- S THE WEATHER warms, wood A-listers as Draco, leader of the Praeto- is his edginess that appeals to me....We have an clad in T-shirt and basketball sneak- charged “Romeo and Juliet,” you’ll Ainterest in garden orna- rian Guard, in the remake of the 1981 film, unspoken language that works. His films are al- ers, and Romeo in layered hoodies, not only laugh at some jokes you mentation takes off. “Clash of the Titans,” in an experience he de- ways inside his head and what comes on paper taking photographs with his mobile the Capulet ball, in which everyone ing) love scenes. When she tells never before knew were in the text, On March 31-April 1 in scribes as “extremely demanding.” is never what we are going to do. So my job is to phone. This succeeds in giving the takes frenzied part in a Capoeira, Romeo he kisses “by th’ book,” she but also you’ll leave feeling you’ve Paris, Sotheby’s will auction The action adventure, which will be re- translate his “inner film.” I think we are a good pair some youthful urgency; it is bol- the Brazilian fighting/dance. seems to know what she’s talking been touched by a genuine tragedy. historic stone, marble and leased in the U.K. and U.S. on April 2 and then match, which is basically why I did it. stered, oddly enough, by dressing Mariah Gale’s Juliet knows her about. Sam Troughton’s wonder- —Paul Levy wrought-iron statues and opens throughout the rest of Europe, stars some of the servants in Brazilian own mind, and is seldom soppy— fully expressive face makes him a Until Aug. 27 Liam Neeson as Zeus, Ralph Fiennes as Hades Describe “Valhalla Rising.” garb, which adds some street cred to even in the (smolderingly convinc- more than usually thoughtful www.rsc.org.uk and “Avatar” star Sam Worthington as Per- This film is like a dance or a meditation. It Collecting seus, whom Mr. Mikkelsen’s character accom- is an epic, mythological film where I play a MARGARET STUDER panies on an epic mission. They performed nonperson. I am religion, the past, the future, many of their own stunts. “When we came an animal. It is not about psychology but more home in the evening we all used to compare about the energy or melody of the film. I think Art by De Niro, Sr., after seeing Matisse decorative objects for gar- scars and bruises,” Mr. Mikkelsen says. it is inspired by the old Russian films and is a dens, parks and terraces. Mr. Mikkelsen is also starring as a one- big tribute to cinematic masters like Sergio Le- Nice: It isn’t every day that the Loire Valley between 1961 and 1964. a rag and turpentine to capture the The consignor is Paris eyed mute warrior in the Viking epic “Valhalla one and Kurosawa. MatisseMuseumcomesupwithanex- The show in Nice begins with a se- essential form. In contrast, his dealer Samuel Roger, whose Rising,” which opened earlier this month in hibit of contemporary American art ries of black-and-white photos of Rob- American landscapes (like the bril- company Origines—with a some European cities and will open in the U.K. You came to prominence with the renaissance underscored by the tantalizing lure ert De Niro, Sr. (1922-93) in his New liantly hued pistachio and scarlet gallery on the rue des Saints- on April 30. of Danish cinema in the 1990s. Why did Danish of film-star glamour. But this small, York loft studio on West Broadway. “New Hampshire Landscape, 1970”) Pères and a showroom in an His film acting career began in his early 30s films suddenly become so popular? dazzlingshow,“AfterseeingMatisse: Organized in the same spirit as Mat- suggest a freer brushstroke move- 18th-century industrial build- whenachanceintroductiontoDanishfilmdirec- I believe that there is a certain language for paintings and drawings by Robert de isse’s emblematic play with mirrors, ment reminiscent of a drippy Pol- ing in Richebourg—special- tor Nicolas Winding Refn led to Mr. Mikkelsen’s every generation and I think maybe it was time Niro, Sr.” couldn’t be housed in a it’s a voyeuristic glimpse into the art- lack-like improvisation. izes in antique exterior and casting as the junkie, Tonny, in Mr. Refn’s cult that Denmark had a language of its own. That more appropriate setting. True, the ist’s private space. There’s even a Interspersed between 34 can- interior ornamentation. film “Pusher” (1996),the first in an acclaimed means that we had a certain feeling for certain vocation of the late painter’s famous grinning profile shot of father and vases, 21 drawings and three sculp- A highlight will be a tall trilogy. The film successfully launched both of films which we weren’t doing but wanted to do. actor son, Robert de Niro, Jr., who at- son, as well as a portrait of De Niro Sr. tures by De Niro, Sr., are a dozen per- 18th-century stone figure of an their careers. Since then, Mr. Mikkelsen has So we all had the same kind of focus which was tended the crowded opening, is to with his pet parrot, hung side by side sonal objects belonging to Matisse— arrogant King Louis XIV, with proved his versatility in a number of intense the big secret for the whole change. bring his father’s art to a wider pub- with Henri Cartier-Bresson’s “Mat- porcelain jugs, vases and Venetian a gorgeous, curly hairdo (esti- roles ranging from an adulterous doctor in Sus- In 2006, “After the Wedding” was nomi- lic, but never mind: the works are a isse and his pigeons,” taken at the wood chairs—that were deliber- mate: Œ100,000-Œ120,000). An- anne Bier’s 2002 Dogme film “Open Hearts,” to nated for best foreign film and you starred fascinatingtestimonytothewayMat- Villa le Rêve in Vence, France. ately grafted into the New York art- other will be a large 19th-cen- amorallyconflictedcharityworkerinMs.Bier’s as Le Chiffre in the Bond film “Casino Roy- isse’s harmony of colors, figurative ist’s own abstract still lifes and inte- tury allegorical marble figure Oscar-nominated 2006 film “After the Wed- Though De Niro’s Abstract Ex- ale.” How did these films’ success affect composition and techniques con- riors with reclining models. Even in of Spring, in flowing robes ding.” It was his role in “Casino Royale” that pressionist palette is slightly more your career? tinue to inspire. somber than his European influ- his final work, the striking 1.5-meter- with roses twined through her brought him to Hollywood’s attention. I think there is a tendency that more peo- Born in Syracuse, New York, De ences (Bonnard, Matisse, Derain), high “Interior” (1985-93), the resem- hair (Œ40,000-Œ50,000). Casually dressed in jeans and a beanie hat, Two Spanish 19th-century ple recognize me now. Also, if people find the Niro Sr. trained with American mas- everything from the flat, solid color blance is unmistakable: in the back- Mr. Mikkelsen met with The Wall Street Journal cast-iron Florentine soldiers Bond film interesting they will go back and ters like Joseph Albers, a founder of backgrounds to the rigorous geo- ground, a rich decor, an open win- over lunch in Copenhagen’s Café Dan Turéll to make a striking pair. They see some of my Danish work before they de- optical art, and Hans Hofmann, a fol- metric organization of space invites dow; in the foreground, a lush green discuss the challenges of his latest role, the re- once graced the home of sur- cide whether to call me. I also have more parts lower of Bauhaus and American Ab- comparison. And just as Matisse re- plant, and a low, Moroccan-style ta- naissance of Danish cinema and how playing a realist Salvador Dali’s private to choose from so the chances of there being ble adorned with a white porcelain Bond villain boosted his career. stract Expressionism. Fifteen years worked his charcoal and pen draw- something good are obviously bigger. 2010 The Estate of Robert De Niro, Sr. secretary, John Peter Moore. after his first solo exhibition at Peggy ings with a stump (a stick used to vase of anemones and lemons. s The ants on one soldier’s legs Guggenheim’s New York gallery, the blend and smudge out the strokes), —Lanie Goodman Was making “Clash of the Titans” fun or are believed to have been How do you choose your projects? Do you De Niro adopted a similar tech- Until May 31 The late Robert De Niro, Sr., was it a laborious, special-effects-heavy artist moved to France in search of a painted by Dali (estimate: From top, Mads Mikkelsen; the actor starring as One-Eye in ‘Valhalla Rising.’ like to alternate between a Hollywood and a new direction, living in Paris and the nique, erasing his bold outlines with www.musee-matisse-nice.org in his studio in New York. production? Œ30,000-Œ40,000). There will Everett Collection / RexEuropean Features (2) production? The key word was definitely having a lot of be statues of lions and dogs, I’ve never worked in Hollywood. I choose fun. It was a fantastic crew and cast and every- outdoor vases, urns, stone work with the people I like to work with. First looking at me as if I was a soccer star. into 3-D. Are you excited by the 3-D revolu- benches, fountains, wells, one had an amazing time together. We just I have to read something and find it interest- (Laughs) Half an hour later, though, he gave tion, or is it just a gimmick? In London, a beautiful patchwork of a show gates and columns. seemed to bond really fast. The special effects ing and like the story. If I don’t understand it me a dead arm and we were just good friends. I think they tried the 3-D revolution at So-called antique pickers werehardwork.Itiseasiertohavedialoguewith fully but there is something in there that is in- scour France for Origines, res- somebodywho is there.Ihad a gimble(like a me- least five times throughout history and it teresting, then it takes a director to convince London: Exhibitions of quilts V&A’s own English quilted silk satin cuing pieces from buildings to chanicalball) asmyscorpion, whichIwassitting Was the A-list cast part of the appeal of mak- never seemed to work. However, finally, “Ava- me. If he can’t do that then I don’t go with it. It appear to attract large numbers of doublet and breeches, 1635-40), cur- be demolished or sold. If they onandfighting with,buttherestoftheguysonly ing the film? tar” did it. It may make it slightly more inter- doesn’t matter where the project comes from. visitors, and the Victoria & Albert tains and other hangings. In fact, have a patina, that’s O.K., says had tennis balls to imagine their scorpions. It was really the director, Louis Leterrier. esting but that is not the reason to see the Museum already has big advance the technique most of us associate Mr. Roger, explaining that He was so enthusiastic and energetic. He was film. You should see the film because hope- You live with your family in Copenhagen. bookings for its just-opened major with quilts is patchwork, where “traces of age” add to their at- Was playing Draco physically demanding? jumping up and down showing me what he fully it is a good, entertaining, family story. Would you ever move to Hollywood? spring show “Quilts 1700-2010.” (usually) geometrically regular bits traction and “looking too Yes, it was extremely demanding for all of had in mind and I was thinking how cool, he is The 3-D is just the icing on top. I might have considered it if I were 20 but I From a late 17th-century cot cover of cloth are cut out, and stitched new” doesn’t. us. The Praetorian Guard is what is left of the really into this. Another bonus is the fact that don’t see myself over there at all. I go over to Grayson Perry’s 1998 computer- around their edges, often sandwich- Origines also specializes in army. We are retired soldiers. There was me, a I have finally done a film my kids can see. You also play a warrior/Viking in “Valhalla there once or twice a year. I do my meetings generated “Right to Life,” with its ing the stuffing, to make a square or historic fireplaces. In the sale slightlyolderguyplayedbyLiamCunningham, Rising.” Are you hoping to reinvent yourself and shake the hands that I have to shake and ambiguous message about abor- rectangular bed cover. and then some very young and inexperienced as an action hero with these parts? will be a wide range of chim- You have described Draco as a “full blooded hopefully the work I have done will speak for tion, this show covers (with plenty As can be seen from scores of ex- warriors.I thinkwhen youdoafilmlikethisev- It is a little late for me, isn’t it? Well, look ney pieces, including an Aus- guy” and “a classical Greek warrior.” What re- itself. I think I would get very frustrated try- of visual puns to match this verbal amples in this fun show, patchwork eryone takes pride in doing the stunts them- at Mel Gibson, he is still doing it. (Laughs) It is trian 19th-century terracotta search or preparation did you do for the role? ing to establish a life there when I have a fine one) British quilt-making over democratized the whole business structure decorated with selves.Obviouslyyouhavesomereallydanger- a coincidence that these parts are coming life here in Denmark with a lot of good work. three centuries. of quilting, as it was a way for the coats-of-arms and two war- ous stuff that the stunt guys do (we all had our The script is always the main preparation along when I’m in my 40s. I’ve always been ex- “Quilting” means stitching poor to recycle textiles, which were like knights made for the im- own personal doubles) but they also take pride for me. Sometimes you have a period piece tremely physical. I was a gymnast for 15 years Does your training as a dancer come in use- around a stuffing, either enclosing often too expensive and valuable to perial Hapsburg family (esti- inteachingussothatwecanlookgooddoingit. where you haveto researcharound itbut,if the and then I was a dancer for nine so I was kind ful as an actor? it or giving a raised appearance to be discarded. The exhibition is orga- mate: Œ300,000-Œ500,000). writers have done their homework well of looking for these parts. But we have a ten- Sometimes I ask myself that question. I the bits between the stitching. This nized both thematically and chrono- Mr. Roger recently sold a How was working with Sam Worthington? enough, the information is all in the script. dency in Denmark not to do many action think I have an awareness of what I do. For ex- technique isn’t confined to textiles logically, with the contemporary cheminée for a Russian cli- All my scenes are with Sam. He is fantastic. Preparation consisted of physically training films. My career abroad started a little late ample I am aware when to sync; when to get meant to cover beds, but can be works “woven throughout” (the ent’s apartment in Monaco. He has a “Pusher” club back in Australia in meand the guysto look asif we are a unit.I also and these kinds of roles have just popped up. fast, when to get slow, how to move in a room, used for clothing (as shown in the V&A’s pun). —Paul Levy He says: “An historic chem- homage to the “Pusher” films I did, so he knew grew my hair and a beard. how to be drunk or not be drunk. Until July 4 inée adds soul to a house.” my work well. I was supposed to meet this “Av- “Valhalla Rising” is your fourth film with —Elizabeth Fitzherbert is a writer V&A Images A quilt by Elizabeth Chapman (1829). “Clash of the Titans” is being converted s www.vam.ac.uk/quilts atar” star but instead all I met was this boy the Danish director Nicolas Winding based in London.

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Bookshelf / By Paul Levy Contents 7 3 | Interview 6-7 | Cover story Travel 10 | Top Picks From Steamy Italy to Frozen Fjords

Ever since they appeared to- lacks both the darkly mordant few identifiable characters—in beginnings on a frozen fjord,” Tom Aldous the key to work out Mads Mikkelsen gether with 18 other young Brit- wit, and the perpetually shocking particular, one long set-piece in which is reminiscent of Evelyn how to produce clean energy by Mapping Mallorca ‘Romeo and Juliet” triumphs ish novelists in a 1983 issue of revelations about human behav- which the protagonist, Michael Waugh’s writing “Scoop” as a re- mimicking the process of photosyn- on being an action hero Granta magazine, Martin Amis ior, that characterize his best fic- Beard—a self-indulgent, glutton- sult of being sent to cover Mussoli- thesis in the vegetable kingdom, Exploring the island’s exquisite food trails and Ian McEwan have seemed to tion. Because Keith and the au- ous, alcoholic, unprepossessing, ni’s invasion of Abyssinia: a comic and releasing usable quantities of Art by Robert De Niro, Sr. be part of the same literary gang. thor are in so many respects iden- womanizing and much-married response to a sinister occasion by hydrogen from water. Mr. McEwan 4-5 | Food & Wine One difference, though, is that Mr. tical, it is not surprising that the Nobel Prize-winning physicist— a mature artist. Mr. McEwan’s elaborates this in its totally grip- Amis is a publicity magnet. He narrator shows a bit of tender- goes on an expedition to the Arc- achievement is the more remark- ping, and entirely hilarious, detail. A beautiful patchwork of a show has only to say something satiri- ness for him, which makes him tic Circle. Mr. McEwan was on able, though, for being funny Beard of course steals his student’s cally whimsical (for example, pro- very different from the other fic- just such a voyage in 2005. about climate change—a feat that work, in another sub-plot that in- Chef Tim Raue’s posing euthanasia booths on ev- tional Keith (Talent), of Mr. volves an apparent murder and de-

Collecting: Garden ornamentation ery street-corner to deal with the Amis’s biting book, “Money.” pends pleasingly on the literary unusual approach t “silver tsunami” of baby-boomers) “The Pregnant Widow” quali- conventions of the thriller. This to be denounced in the letters fies, of course, for all sorts of for- seems to me plot-construction (as 11 | Books pages of every national newspa- eign language descriptors: It’s also Beard would say) of another order per. Consequently he is a house- a Bildungsroman, a record of the of magnitude from some of the hold name, sentimental writer’s earlier work; meticulous whereas Mr. education of a and tidy, there are no unraveled, New books from McEwan’s ce- The Pregnant Widow bookish, sex- floppy or unfastened ends. lebrity is a lit- By Martin Amis obsessed Ox- Along the way Mr. McEwan Amis and McEwan tle more spe- (Jonathan Cape, 480 pages, £18.99) ford under- seizes every opportunity for fre- cialized. graduate read- quent (and brilliant) set-pieces, of Both au- ing English which the most audacious is a

Sergio Formoso Solar 12 | Time Off thors have with an long section in which Beard learns Port of Soller on the coast of la Serra of Tramuntana in Mallorca. now pub- By Ian McEwan equally obses- enough about Milton almost to lished sub- (Jonathan Cape, 304 pages, £18.99) sive interest earn a degree, in order to seduce Alicia Guirao COVER , Valldemossa, Mallorca. Our arts stantial new in the origins a girl reading English at Oxford. Photograph by Salvador Busquets. novels that of words. The In another, Beard falls narrowly Wine: Playing with the Rhône and culture are in part autobiographical ro- trouble is precisely that it is so short of duelling over a packet of mans à clef. Mr. Amis has made it sentimental, and at 500 pages, too salt-and-vinegar-flavored potato 8 | Art t clear that the major part of “The long and demanding of the read- chips, which illustrates his greed, calendar Random House (2) Pregnant Widow”—detailing the er’s attention for such slight mat- but also presents another amiably love affairs of one 20-year-old ters. Indeed the real interest for In this novel—an artistically involves him mastering a great droll academic target for satire. Replicating masterpieces protagonist, Keith Nearing, during this reader was in the sub-plots in- ambitious, though seriously enter- deal of genuine science, in order Throughout, the reader is never the summer of 1970, which he volving the sad decline of Keith’s taining, response to the facts of to invent the cod-science that is in any doubt that Mr. McEwan is Barbara Tina Fuhr Editor spends in an Italian castle—is ac- sister Violet, and especially the global warming—Mr. McEwan has so much part of the pleasure of one of the good guys—he’s in no Elisabeth Limber Art director tually about himself. Hence, the sexually accomplished and Dicken- a lot of fun with some rides on a reading “Solar.” The protagonist way a climate change denier, he Brian M. Carney Books page editor 9 | Golf identities of the several girls in- sianly-named Gloria Beautyman. “skidoo” snow vehicle, but the Michael Beard, for example, who clearly knows too much science Questions or comments? Write to [email protected]. volved have become the subject Mr. McEwan also differs from main purpose of the episode is to was awarded the Nobel for “the for that. In “Solar” he’s elegantly Please include your full name and address. Dish with lion, Turkey, second half 16th century, on show in Berlin. of several newspaper and maga- his earlier work, which had a ma- show how fragile human coopera- Beard-Einstein Conflation, a spine- discovered a terrible truth: that The truth behind who built it Switzerland Culture, Geneva, for Trust Khan Aga © zine pieces, with wannabe Lilies, cabre tinge—a stolen child, a man tion can be, as anarchy engulfs tingling hyphenation for any physi- comedy is the only possible way Scheherazades and Glorias vying who makes himself disappear, a the organization of the boot room, cist, placing Beard’s work proudly for an artist to deal with the sear- to nominate themselves. The book penis preserved in a jar. In “So- where the team’s crucial frostbite- in a lineage origination from Ein- ing specter stalking the planet. will be of large interest to Mr. lar,” he now gives us a sustained preventing clothing is kept. stein’s revolutionary 1905 paper.” Amis’s future biographer, but per- comic novel, and a very good one, In his acknowledgements Mr. That prize-winning “Confla- Mr. Levy is a writer based in Ox- haps chiefly to him or her, as it too. Here too there seem to be a McEwan says, “this novel had its tion” then gives post-doc student fordshire. THE JOURNAL CROSSWORD / Edited by Mike Shenk 55 *“The Night of the Hunter” Down 52 Austen novel 84 Got up star—his middle names are 1 It’s just not right 54 Ceremonious verse 85 “I ___ saw this before”: Charles Durman! 56 Dust jacket hype Desdemona 21 Soothing plant 30 Best in a hot dog 43 “Fuzzy Wuzzy was 2 Hodgepodge Across 59 Rapper Snoop ___ 89 Short negligee contest ___” 3 Money tray 57 Night school subj. Bookshelf / By Dalya Alberge 1 Powerball, e.g. 22 Pilaf need 61 They test reasoning skills: 91 Game choice 7 31 Estimator’s phrase 44 Passes on 4 Friend’s pronoun 58 LeBron’s team, 6 Notation used for 23 *Cut from the Abbr. 92 Sub captain’s command 33 It became Spike 5 Alfresco on a sports ticker Unix permissions tenderloin—its 45 In the worst way 62 Author O’Flaherty in 2003 60 Nutty snack 93 Classic baseball variant name means 47 Super Bowl XXXIV 6 Kimono sash 11 Pen holder? 63 Tequila sources 63 Gung-ho 94 Popular workout A Classical Composer in a Modern World “dainty cut”! 34 Experience champs 7 Handle 15 Tweedledum, 67 Beat back 64 “Strait Is the Gate” 95 Beatniks beat them 25 *Sources of halite— 35 *Midwest 48 “Impression, 8 Voice quality for one metropolis—it has 70 Europe’s largest novelist that’s a type of Sunrise” painter 9 Heaps 96 City north of Lisbon 19 Philanthropist Yale a view of Canada active volcano 65 Rugby’s river Samuel Barber was nine when one of the 20th century’s most suc- ductor Arturo Toscanini. Barber to write music that was immedi- from his mother and sister, and evaporitic deposit! 49 Kentucky college 10 Protracted 97 “Hoffa” director 20 George who to the south! 72 Brawny competitor 66 Furniture carrier he confessed a “worrying secret” cessful opera composers, are partic- observes to Prof. Dickinson: ately recognizable as American: from his aunt Louise Homer, an 27 El Greco’s home 11 Sausage skin 99 Home of the Bundestag invented a logic 42 Bobby Clarke, from 50 Penultimate letter 73 Informal farewell in a note to his mother. Urging ularly valuable. They lived together “There’s no reason music should “That made him somewhat differ- international opera singer. 12 Verve 68 Takeoff estimates, 100 Tribeca restaurant system 28 Profit 1969 to 1984 53 Hurricane’s cousin 74 Consider for short her not to cry, he wrote: “I was outside New York for 30 years be difficult for the audience.” ent.” In fact, Barber despised the While there are several refer- 13 Online chuckle co-owned by Robert 76 *“Fine by me!”—that 69 Ninny’s brain size De Niro not meant to be an athlete. I was from 1943, and the book shows He was one of a handful of “folksy Americana” of Copland, ences in the book to Barber’s wit 14 Reveal sounds like something 70 “Ask ___ questions...” 102 Move boundaries, meant to be a composer, and will how crucial their relationship was composers who could live off his Menotti recalled. and charm, we learn that he could “Enough!” / by Myles Callum 15 In an unoriginal way Mr. Ed might say! 71 Briefly, a feature of each perhaps be, I’m sure . . . Don’t ask me to to both composers’ artistic develop- music, although he suffered at the Although Barber’s critical suc- also become morose. Prof. Dickin- 12345 6789101112131415161718 16 Napa business 81 Creature on the British starred clue, and a chunk 106 Scot’s family try and forget this unpleasant ment. Menotti described Barber as hands of critics who dismissed cesses included two Pulitzer son tells us that Barber never 17 Mammoth period? 19 20 21 22 coat of arms of its answer 107 Easy gait thing and to go play football.” “a very tormented soul, never him as old-fashioned—only to Prizes—in 1958 fully recovered 18 Counselor to the 86 Animal house 73 Fragrant flowers 108 Milton Friedman’s subj. 23 24 25 26 Greeks at Troy With a prophetic sense of his happy with what he had done”—al- change their tune after his death. for his opera “Va- from the mauling 87 Chocolate-caramel candies 75 Geometry giant 110 “___ your disposal” 24 Memento ___ own destiny, he went on to be- though he was only truly happy As Menotti told Prof. Dickinson, nessa” and in he received for 27 28 29 30 88 Candy wafer brand 77 Cut in three 111 Mambo legend Puente 26 It’s exposed at low tide come one of America’s most re- while he was composing. “Once he “Now that he is dead, all of a sud- 1962 for his Pi- his grand opera 90 Bassoon’s cousin 78 Chic, in the 1960s 112 Tiger’s wife 29 Tropical cuckoos vered classical composers. His in- had finished the piece, he could den everybody’s rediscovering ano Con- “Antony and Cleo- 31 32 33 34 91 “Empire” author 79 Memo heading 32 Like Hercules 113 Manhattan-based tensely lyrical “Adagio for not bear to look at it . . . He suf- Sam Barber.” He condemned news- certo—he was bit- patra,” which he 92 Like the familiar shark fin 80 Lab act fashion co. 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 34 Relieves of weapons Strings” is one of the most popu- fered a great papers like ter that the “Ada- wrote for the 94 Graceful assurance 82 Pigeon patter 115 ___ du Diable 35 Move quickly lar classics, used in films such as deal because the New York gio for Strings” opening of the 43 44 45 46 95 Augurs 83 Expiration notice 117 “Au contraire!” Samuel Barber Remembered: 36 PayPal’s parent company Platoon and regularly performed he went Times, which had eclipsed his new Metropolitan 98 *High-ranking official—Canada’s 47 48 49 50 51 52 37 Office aide world-wide. Now the centenary through long A Centenary Tribute had “so often other music. It is Opera at Lincoln Leona Aglukkaq is one! 38 Impetuous of his birth is being marked with periods of dry- By Peter Dickinson damned his widely consid- Center in 1966. 53 54 55 56 57 58 101 First games of the season Last Week’s Solution 39 Robert of “The Sopranos” a new biography, “Samuel Barber ness.” (Boydell & Brewer, 198 pages, £25) music,” for ered a master- After that defeat, 103 First mate? 59 60 61 62 40 Statesman who sought DELIMIT CLEAVE JOPLIN Remembered,” by Peter Dickin- The book printing his piece, but Barber Barber never 104 Poster person Carthage’s destruction AGITATO OUTPAY ENRICO son, the eminent British musicolo- explores the obituary on thought he had wrote anything 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70 71 105 Tenderfoot 41 Was a wheelman for, say URBANECOMMERCE TO I LET gist and composer, emeritus pro- anachronism that was Barber. In the front page. Menotti also at- written much bet- of comparable im- 106 Some bayou folk ___ BERLE CRAB COMB AL I I 72 73 74 75 46 “Vox populi, vox ” fessor of Keele and London uni- an avant-garde age of Berio and tacked major opera houses that ter work, saying portance, and 109 Teased 48 Stock exchange? TESTLAB ALL INCLEMENT versities, and a devoted cham- Stockhausen, he did not seem to had ignored his operas, then sud- with typical hu- died a broken SAT I RE I N SUM 76 77 78 79 80 81 82 83 84 85 114 *Flour-making plant—the 49 They’re tops at pion of American music. belong to his musical century. His denly rushed to stage them after mor: “Sometimes man. But, as Prof. Greek geographer Strabo ABUT HAT ATAD EMBALM Victoria’s Secret The book draws on rare inter- romantic lyricism steeped in a tra- Barber’s passing: “It’s so sad that I get tired of Dickinson points 86 87 88 89 90 wrote about one! 50 Scintilla KOSHERSALTPETER EEN I E INHER LOU ELEA STAR views with Barber and with those dition of Brahms, and his love of we all have to die before anybody hearing the out, the huge 116 *White liquid used in 51 China’s currency unit

91 92 93 94 Courtesy of Robert White/G. Schirmer cooking—it’s called gata OK I NAWA EXES HANGT IME who knew him, including his long- Bach whom he played every day, pays attention to us.” ‘Adagio’… But I number of Barber SATURNBENED I CT I ON 95 96 97 98 99 100 in the Philippines! WSJ.com term lover, the late Italian com- were out of tune with the disso- The book also explores the ob- amuse myself during the perfor- recordings and performances 118 Camp Swampy canine PUTTOSEA SELA TENFOUR poser Gian Carlo Menotti. Some nant music of his contemporar- jection that Barber’s music was mances because I know there’s go- worldwide testify to enduring pop- 101 102 103 104 119 Jai ___ Crossword online ELOI SUCH IMP SAIDA of the material was recorded 60 ies. For him, the language of the not as distinctively American as ing to be a mistake somewhere, ularity in his eternity. And of AEROS PROD I GALPAULSON 120 Vancouver Olympics For an interactive that of Copland, Gershwin or and I just wait for it to happen.” course, the late master might be 105 106 107 108 109 110 111 112 113 KEYNES EMUS ALB LENT years ago and most has remained 19th century had not yet been ex- star Ohno version of The Wall ATM EMMA CALC unpublished until now. The biog- hausted, and he created music Charles Ives, as if the heart of Barber’s father was a re- amused to know that mistakes 114 115 116 117 121 Order pizza, maybe Street Journal Crossword, SIMOLEONSAYS AYEAYES raphy should appeal both to aca- that was rhythmically complex the American idiom lies only in spected doctor who realized that still abound in just about every 122 Procrastinator’s promise WSJ.com subscribers his son would ask nothing more performance of the “Adagio.” 118 119 120 121 ADAB TOOL HOTS P I DAY demics, with its copious foot- and harmonically rich—and ad- jazz or folk song. Prof. Dickinson 123 Home of the Quakers can go to NINJAS MIRACLEGROPIUS notes, and to general music lov- mired by some of the day's fore- says Copland, who knew Barber, out of life than to starve in a gar- 122 123 124 125 124 Article of faith WSJ.com/WeekendJournal TOLEDO ACETAL ORNETTE ers, with its wealth of anecdotes. most musicians, including pianist asserted that he did not believe ret and be a musician. Barber’s Ms. Alberge is a writer based in 125 Unfeeling AMYTAN SELENA DRESSER The reminiscences of Menotti, Vladimir Horowitz and the con- Barber had any conscious desire musical influences came more London.

W2 Friday - Sunday, March 26 - 28, 2010 | WEEKEND JOURNAL WEEKEND JOURNAL | Friday - Sunday, March 26 - 28, 2010 W11 FRIDAY-SUNDAY, MARCH 26-28, 2010

Amsterdam sinologist Otto Franke (1863-1946) Until June 13 % art through paintings and objects from 44-131-624-6200 “Kienholz: Hoerengracht” displays a his studies in Asia. www.nationalgalleries.org walk-through evocation of Amster- Museum Dahlem- dam’s red-light district by American Museum of Asian Art London Until May 24 artists Edward and Nancy Kienholz. music % 49-30-8301-382 Amsterdam Historisch Museum “Teenage Cancer Trust 2010,” www.smb.museum Until Aug. 29 is being supported by top Brit- % 31-20-5231-822 ish musical acts, including Arctic music www.ahm.nl Monkeys and The Who, “Festtage 2010” is a classical-music festi- which will perform Barcelona val, featuring opera performances of “Eu- “Quadrophenia.” gene Onegin,” “Simon Boccanegra” and March 26, Noel film “Tristan and Isolde” alongside recitals. Gallagher “Frederico Fellini: The Circus of Illusions” Staatsoper Unter den Linden March 27, presents more than 400 images illus- Until April 5 Arctic Monkeys trating the work process, inspirations % 49-30-2035-4438 March 28, JLS and films of the Italian director. www.staatsoper-berlin.org March 29, The Specials CaixaForum Barcelona March 30, The Who Until June 13 Bilbao Royal Albert Hall % 34-93-4768-600 art www.royalalberthall.com obrasocial.lacaixa.es “Anish Kapoor” is a touring exhibition presenting 20 major sculptural works design music by the Turner Prize-winning artist, “Sustainable Future” show- “Woody Allen and His New Orleans from the 1970s to the present. cases prototypes, samples, Sammlung Otto Franke, Privatbesitz Jazz Band” conclude the European Museo Guggenheim Bilbao products and films illustrat- March tour of the jazz ensemble. Until Oct. 12 ing the possibilities of sustain- Touring Mallorca, March 28, Palau de la Musica, % 34-94-435-9000 ability in modern design. Barcelona www.guggenheim-bilbao.es Design Museum March 29, Terme, Montecatini March 31-Sept. 5 March 30, Teatro La Fenice, Venice Above, Chinese order of the double dragon, à la carte % Bonn 44-20-7940-8790 awarded by the Chinese government to March 31, Academia Santa Cecilia, art designmuseum.org Rome Otto Franke in 1898, on show in Berlin; “Erwin Wurm” shows work by the bottom left, Alex Turner of Arctic Monkeys. Exploring the island’s food trails www.woodyallenband.com Austrian artist known for his “one- music minute sculptures” as well as his use “Chopin: The Romantic Refugee” exam- Berlin of cars, potatoes, cucumbers and ines the life of composer Frédéric art other ordinary objects in his artwork. Chopin, presenting rare historic record- cise on Velázquez’s “Las Meninas” un- parts circulating in blackness. “Treasures of the Aga Khan Museum: Kunstmuseum Bonn ings, letters and documents. dertaken by Goya in 1778. Pinakothek der Moderne Masterpieces of Islamic Art” show- Until June 6 The British Library Museo Nacional del Prado Until June 27 % 49-228-7762-11 Until May 16 cases 200 works chosen from 1,000 Until May 30 % 49-89-2380-5360 years of Islamic culture, including www.kunstmuseum-bonn.de % 44-843-2081-144 % 34-91-3302-800 www.pinakothek.de paintings, drawings and ceramics. www.bl.uk www.museodelprado.es Martin Gropius Bau Edinburgh Oslo % 49-30-2548-6236 photography music Until June 6 “Artist Rooms: Diane Arbus” showcases Madrid Munich “Andrea Bocelli” presents the Italian www.berlinerfestspiele.de 70 black-and-white photographs by the art art American photographer, spanning her “Richard Hamilton: Picasso’s Meninas” “Pipilotti Rist: Extremities (smooth, tenor reciting classic standards as well history career from the mid-1950s until her explores a 1973 portfolio by the Brit- smooth)” displays an audio-visual in- as pop and personal compositions. “Cultural Pictures from China” cele- death in 1971. ish Pop artist entitled “Homage to Pic- stallation by the Swiss artist present- April 8, Telenor Arena, Oslo brates the life and work of German Dean Gallery asso,” alongside a similar artistic exer- ing an array of free-floating body April 9, Copenhagen Forum April 11, Globe Arena, Stockholm www.andreabocelli.com Paris art “Tao, Another Way of Being” exam- ines the religious and cultural impor- tance of Taoism in China through 250 objects, including paintings, sculptures, ceramics and textiles. Grand Palais March 31-July 5 % 33-1-4413-1717 www.grandpalais.fr

fashion “An Ideal History of Contemporary Fashion, vol. I: 70-80” illustrates the history of contemporary fashion from the 1970s to the 1980s. Les Arts Decoratifs April 1-Oct. 10 % 33-1-4455-5750 www.lesartsdecoratifs.fr Stockholm art “Lee Lozano” offers a a retrospective of work by the American artist (1930-99) including her avant-garde, minimalist and conceptual art. Moderna Museet Until April 25 % 46-8-5195-5200 www.modernamuseet.se

Source: ArtBase Global Arts News Ser- vice, WSJE research. Chiaki Nozu

W12 Friday - Sunday, March 26 - 28, 2010 | WEEKEND JOURNAL Wine:Wine: The Playing best of with Christmas the Rhône drinking The artEuropean of copying Web masterpieces habits revealed