Large-Eddy Simulation for Wind and Tidally Driven Sea Circulation in Coastal Semi-Closed Areas
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Accurate Modelling of Uni-Directional Surface Waves
Journal of Computational and Applied Mathematics 234 (2010) 1747–1756 Contents lists available at ScienceDirect Journal of Computational and Applied Mathematics journal homepage: www.elsevier.com/locate/cam Accurate modelling of uni-directional surface waves E. van Groesen a,b,∗, Andonowati a,b,c, L. She Liam a, I. Lakhturov a a Applied Mathematics, University of Twente, The Netherlands b LabMath-Indonesia, Bandung, Indonesia c Mathematics, Institut Teknologi Bandung, Indonesia article info a b s t r a c t Article history: This paper shows the use of consistent variational modelling to obtain and verify an Received 30 November 2007 accurate model for uni-directional surface water waves. Starting from Luke's variational Received in revised form 3 July 2008 principle for inviscid irrotational water flow, Zakharov's Hamiltonian formulation is derived to obtain a description in surface variables only. Keeping the exact dispersion Keywords: properties of infinitesimal waves, the kinetic energy is approximated. Invoking a uni- AB-equation directionalization constraint leads to the recently proposed AB-equation, a KdV-type Surface waves of equation that is also valid on infinitely deep water, that is exact in dispersion for Variational modelling KdV-type of equation infinitesimal waves, and that is second order accurate in the wave height. The accuracy of the model is illustrated for two different cases. One concerns the formulation of steady periodic waves as relative equilibria; the resulting wave profiles and the speed are good approximations of Stokes waves, even for the Highest Stokes Wave on deep water. A second case shows simulations of severely distorting downstream running bi-chromatic wave groups; comparison with laboratory measurements show good agreement of propagation speeds and of wave and envelope distortions. -
Arxiv:2002.03434V3 [Physics.Flu-Dyn] 25 Jul 2020
APS/123-QED Modified Stokes drift due to surface waves and corrugated sea-floor interactions with and without a mean current Akanksha Gupta Department of Mechanical Engineering, Indian Institute of Technology, Kanpur, U.P. 208016, India.∗ Anirban Guhay School of Science and Engineering, University of Dundee, Dundee DD1 4HN, UK. (Dated: July 28, 2020) arXiv:2002.03434v3 [physics.flu-dyn] 25 Jul 2020 1 Abstract In this paper, we show that Stokes drift may be significantly affected when an incident inter- mediate or shallow water surface wave travels over a corrugated sea-floor. The underlying mech- anism is Bragg resonance { reflected waves generated via nonlinear resonant interactions between an incident wave and a rippled bottom. We theoretically explain the fundamental effect of two counter-propagating Stokes waves on Stokes drift and then perform numerical simulations of Bragg resonance using High-order Spectral method. A monochromatic incident wave on interaction with a patch of bottom ripple yields a complex interference between the incident and reflected waves. When the velocity induced by the reflected waves exceeds that of the incident, particle trajectories reverse, leading to a backward drift. Lagrangian and Lagrangian-mean trajectories reveal that surface particles near the up-wave side of the patch are either trapped or reflected, implying that the rippled patch acts as a non-surface-invasive particle trap or reflector. On increasing the length and amplitude of the rippled patch; reflection, and thus the effectiveness of the patch, increases. The inclusion of realistic constant current shows noticeable differences between Lagrangian-mean trajectories with and without the rippled patch. -
Part II-1 Water Wave Mechanics
Chapter 1 EM 1110-2-1100 WATER WAVE MECHANICS (Part II) 1 August 2008 (Change 2) Table of Contents Page II-1-1. Introduction ............................................................II-1-1 II-1-2. Regular Waves .........................................................II-1-3 a. Introduction ...........................................................II-1-3 b. Definition of wave parameters .............................................II-1-4 c. Linear wave theory ......................................................II-1-5 (1) Introduction .......................................................II-1-5 (2) Wave celerity, length, and period.......................................II-1-6 (3) The sinusoidal wave profile...........................................II-1-9 (4) Some useful functions ...............................................II-1-9 (5) Local fluid velocities and accelerations .................................II-1-12 (6) Water particle displacements .........................................II-1-13 (7) Subsurface pressure ................................................II-1-21 (8) Group velocity ....................................................II-1-22 (9) Wave energy and power.............................................II-1-26 (10)Summary of linear wave theory.......................................II-1-29 d. Nonlinear wave theories .................................................II-1-30 (1) Introduction ......................................................II-1-30 (2) Stokes finite-amplitude wave theory ...................................II-1-32 -
Title Relation Between Wave Characteristics of Cnoidal Wave
Relation between Wave Characteristics of Cnoidal Wave Title Theory Derived by Laitone and by Chappelear Author(s) YAMAGUCHI, Masataka; TSUCHIYA, Yoshito Bulletin of the Disaster Prevention Research Institute (1974), Citation 24(3): 217-231 Issue Date 1974-09 URL http://hdl.handle.net/2433/124843 Right Type Departmental Bulletin Paper Textversion publisher Kyoto University Bull. Disas. Prey. Res. Inst., Kyoto Univ., Vol. 24, Part 3, No. 225,September, 1974 217 Relation between Wave Characteristics of Cnoidal Wave Theory Derived by Laitone and by Chappelear By Masataka YAMAGUCHIand Yoshito TSUCHIYA (Manuscriptreceived October5, 1974) Abstract This paper presents the relation between wave characteristicsof the secondorder approxi- mate solutionof the cnoidal wave theory derived by Laitone and by Chappelear. If the expansionparameters Lo and L3in the Chappeleartheory are expanded in a series of the ratio of wave height to water depth and the expressionsfor wave characteristics of the secondorder approximatesolution of the cnoidalwave theory by Chappelearare rewritten in a series form to the second order of the ratio, the expressions for wave characteristics of the cnoidalwave theory derived by Chappelearagree exactly with the ones by Laitone, whichare convertedfrom the depth below the wave trough to the mean water depth. The limitingarea betweenthese theories for practical applicationis proposed,based on numerical comparison. In addition, somewave characteristicssuch as wave energy, energy flux in the cnoidal waves and so on are calculated. 1. Introduction In recent years, the various higher order solutions of finite amplitude waves based on the perturbation method have been extended with the progress of wave theories. For example, systematic deviations of the cnoidal wave theory, which is a nonlinear shallow water wave theory, have been made by Kellern, Laitone2), and Chappelears> respectively. -
Variational Principles for Water Waves from the Viewpoint of a Time-Dependent Moving Mesh
Variational principles for water waves from the viewpoint of a time-dependent moving mesh Thomas J. Bridges & Neil M. Donaldson Department of Mathematics, University of Surrey, Guildford, GU2 7XH, UK May 21, 2010 Abstract The time-dependent motion of water waves with a parametrically-defined free surface is mapped to a fixed time-independent rectangle by an arbitrary transformation. The emphasis is on the general properties of transformations. Special cases are algebraic transformations based on transfinite interpolation, conformal mappings, and transformations generated by nonlinear elliptic PDEs. The aim is to study the effect of transformation on variational principles for water waves such as Luke’s Lagrangian formulation, Zakharov’s Hamiltonian formulation, and the Benjamin-Olver Hamiltonian formulation. Several novel features are exposed using this approach: a conservation law for the Jacobian, an explicit form for surface re-parameterization, inner versus outer variations and their role in the generation of hidden conservation laws of the Laplacian, and some of the differential geometry of water waves becomes explicit. The paper is restricted to the case of planar motion, with a preliminary discussion of the extension to three-dimensional water waves. 1 Introduction In the theory of water waves, the fluid domain shape is changing with time. Therefore it is appealing to transform the moving domain to a fixed domain. This approach, first for steady waves and later for unsteady waves, has been widely used in the study of water waves. However, in all cases the transformation is either algebraic (explicit) or a conformal mapping. In this paper we look at the equations governing the motion of water waves from the viewpoint of an arbitrary time-dependent transformation of the form x(µ,ν,τ) (µ,ν,τ) y(µ,ν,τ) , (1.1) 7→ t(τ) where (µ,ν) are coordinates for a fixed time-independent rectangle D := (µ,ν) : 0 µ L and h ν 0 , (1.2) { ≤ ≤ − ≤ ≤ } with h, L given positive parameters. -
Waves on Deep Water, I
Lecture 14: Waves on deep water, I Lecturer: Harvey Segur. Write-up: Adrienne Traxler June 23, 2009 1 Introduction In this lecture we address the question of whether there are stable wave patterns that propagate with permanent (or nearly permanent) form on deep water. The primary tool for this investigation is the nonlinear Schr¨odinger equation (NLS). Below we sketch the derivation of the NLS for deep water waves, and review earlier work on the existence and stability of 1D surface patterns for these waves. The next lecture continues to more recent work on 2D surface patterns and the effect of adding small damping. 2 Derivation of NLS for deep water waves The nonlinear Schr¨odinger equation (NLS) describes the slow evolution of a train or packet of waves with the following assumptions: • the system is conservative (no dissipation) • then the waves are dispersive (wave speed depends on wavenumber) Now examine the subset of these waves with • only small or moderate amplitudes • traveling in nearly the same direction • with nearly the same frequency The derivation sketch follows the by now normal procedure of beginning with the water wave equations, identifying the limit of interest, rescaling the equations to better show that limit, then solving order-by-order. We begin by considering the case of only gravity waves (neglecting surface tension), in the deep water limit (kh → ∞). Here h is the distance between the equilibrium surface height and the (flat) bottom; a is the wave amplitude; η is the displacement of the water surface from the equilibrium level; and φ is the velocity potential, u = ∇φ. -
0123737354Fluidmechanics.Pdf
Fluid Mechanics, Fourth Edition Founders of Modern Fluid Dynamics Ludwig Prandtl G. I. Taylor (1875–1953) (1886–1975) (Biographical sketches of Prandtl and Taylor are given in Appendix C.) Photograph of Ludwig Prandtl is reprinted with permission from the Annual Review of Fluid Mechanics, Vol. 19, Copyright 1987 by Annual Reviews www.AnnualReviews.org. Photograph of Geoffrey Ingram Taylor at age 69 in his laboratory reprinted with permission from the AIP Emilio Segre` Visual Archieves. Copyright, American Institute of Physics, 2000. Fluid Mechanics Fourth Edition Pijush K. Kundu Oceanographic Center Nova Southeastern University Dania, Florida Ira M. Cohen Department of Mechanical Engineering and Applied Mechanics University of Pennsylvania Philadelphia, Pennsylvania with contributions by P. S. Ayyaswamy and H. H. Hu AMSTERDAM • BOSTON • HEIDELBERG • LONDON NEW YORK • OXFORD • PARIS • SAN DIEGO SAN FRANCISCO • SINGAPORE • SYDNEY • TOKYO Academic Press is an imprint of Elsevier Academic Press is an imprint of Elsevier 30 Corporate Drive, Suite 400 Burlington, MA 01803, USA Elsevier, The Boulevard, Langford Lane Kidlington, Oxford, OX5 1GB, UK © 2008 Elsevier Inc. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or any information storage and retrieval system, without permission in writing from the publisher. Details on how to seek permission, further information about the Publisher’s permissions policies and our arrangements with organizations such as the Copyright Clearance Center and the Copyright Licensing Agency, can be found at our website: www.elsevier.com/permissions. This book and the individual contributions contained in it are protected under copyright by the Publisher (other than as may be noted herein). -
Spectral Analysis
Ocean Environment Sep. 2014 Kwang Hyo Jung, Ph.D Assistant Professor Dept. of Naval Architecture & Ocean Engineering Pusan National University Introduction Project Phase and Functions Appraise Screen new development development Identify Commence basic Complete detail development options options & define Design & define design & opportunity & Data acquisition base case equipment & material place order LLE Final Investment Field Feasibility Decision Const. and Development Pre-FEED FEED Detail Eng. Procurement Study Installation Planning (3 - 5 M) (6 - 8 M) (33 - 36 M) 1st Production 45/40 Tendering for FEED Tendering for EPCI Single Source 30/25 (4 - 6 M) (11 - 15 M) Design Competition 20/15 15/10 0 - 10/- 5 - 15/-10 - 25/-15 Cost Estimate Accuracy (%) EstimateAccuracy Cost - 40/- 25 Equipment Bills of Material & Concept options Process systems & Material Purchase order & Process blocks defined Definition information Ocean Water Properties Density, Viscosity, Salinity and Temperature Temperature • The largest thermocline occurs near the water surface. • The temperature of water is the highest at the surface and decays down to nearly constant value just above 0 at a depth below 1000 m. • This decay is much faster in the colder polar region compared to the tropical region and varies between the winter and summer seasons. Salinity • The variation of salinity is less profound, except near the coastal region. • The river run-off introduces enough fresh water in circulation near the coast producing a variable horizontal as well as vertical salinity. • In the open sea. the salinity is less variable having an average value of about 35 ‰ (permille, parts per thousand). Viscosity • The dynamic viscosity may be obtained by multiplying the viscosity with mass density. -
Variational of Surface Gravity Waves Over Bathymetry BOUSSINESQ
Gert Klopman Variational BOUSSINESQ modelling of surface gravity waves over bathymetry VARIATIONAL BOUSSINESQ MODELLING OF SURFACE GRAVITY WAVES OVER BATHYMETRY Gert Klopman The research presented in this thesis has been performed within the group of Applied Analysis and Mathematical Physics (AAMP), Department of Applied Mathematics, Uni- versity of Twente, PO Box 217, 7500 AE Enschede, The Netherlands. Copyright c 2010 by Gert Klopman, Zwolle, The Netherlands. Cover design by Esther Ris, www.e-riswerk.nl Printed by W¨ohrmann Print Service, Zutphen, The Netherlands. ISBN 978-90-365-3037-8 DOI 10.3990/1.9789036530378 VARIATIONAL BOUSSINESQ MODELLING OF SURFACE GRAVITY WAVES OVER BATHYMETRY PROEFSCHRIFT ter verkrijging van de graad van doctor aan de Universiteit Twente, op gezag van de rector magnificus, prof. dr. H. Brinksma, volgens besluit van het College voor Promoties in het openbaar te verdedigen op donderdag 27 mei 2010 om 13.15 uur door Gerrit Klopman geboren op 25 februari 1957 te Winschoten Dit proefschrift is goedgekeurd door de promotor prof. dr. ir. E.W.C. van Groesen Aan mijn moeder Contents Samenvatting vii Summary ix Acknowledgements x 1 Introduction 1 1.1 General .................................. 1 1.2 Variational principles for water waves . ... 4 1.3 Presentcontributions........................... 6 1.3.1 Motivation ............................ 6 1.3.2 Variational Boussinesq-type model for one shape function .. 7 1.3.3 Dispersionrelationforlinearwaves . 10 1.3.4 Linearwaveshoaling. 11 1.3.5 Linearwavereflectionbybathymetry . 12 1.3.6 Numerical modelling and verification . 14 1.4 Context .................................. 16 1.4.1 Exactlinearfrequencydispersion . 17 1.4.2 Frequency dispersion approximations . 18 1.5 Outline ................................. -
Answers of the Reviewers' Comments Reviewer #1 —- General
Answers of the reviewers’ comments Reviewer #1 —- General Comments As a detailed assessment of a coupled high resolution wave-ocean modelling system’s sensitivities in an extreme case, this paper provides a useful addition to existing published evidence regarding coupled systems and is a valid extension of the work in Staneva et al, 2016. I would therefore recommend this paper for publication, but with some additions/corrections related to the points below. —- Specific Comments Section 2.1 Whilst this information may well be published in the authors’ previous papers, it would be useful to those reading this paper in isolation if some extra details on the update frequencies of atmosphere and river forcing data were provided. Authors: More information about the model setup, including a description of the open boundary forcing, atmospheric forcing and river runoff, has been included in Section 2.1. Additional references were also added. Section 2.2 This is an extreme case in shallow water, so please could the source term parameterizations for bottom friction and depth induced breaking dissipation that were used in the wave model be stated? Authors: Additional information about the parameterizations used in our model setup, including more references, was provided in Section 2.2. Section 2.3 I found the statements that "<u> is the sum of the Eulerian current and the Stokes drift" and "Thus the divergence of the radiation stress is the only (to second order) force related to waves in the momentum equations." somewhat contradictory. In the equations, Mellor (2011) has been followed correctly and I see the basic point about radiation stress being the difference between coupled and uncoupled systems, so just wondering if the authors can review the text in this section for clarity. -
On the Transport of Energy in Water Waves
On The Transport Of Energy in Water Waves Marshall P. Tulin Professor Emeritus, UCSB [email protected] Abstract Theory is developed and utilized for the calculation of the separate transport of kinetic, gravity potential, and surface tension energies within sinusoidal surface waves in water of arbitrary depth. In Section 1 it is shown that each of these three types of energy constituting the wave travel at different speeds, and that the group velocity, cg, is the energy weighted average of these speeds, depth and time averaged in the case of the kinetic energy. It is shown that the time averaged kinetic energy travels at every depth horizontally either with (deep water), or faster than the wave itself, and that the propagation of a sinusoidal wave is made possible by the vertical transport of kinetic energy to the free surface, where it provides the oscillating balance in surface energy just necessary to allow the propagation of the wave. The propagation speed along the surface of the gravity potential energy is null, while the surface tension energy travels forward along the wave surface everywhere at twice the wave velocity, c. The flux of kinetic energy when viewed traveling with a wave provides a pattern of steady flux lines which originate and end on the free surface after making vertical excursions into the wave, even to the bottom, and these are calculated. The pictures produced in this way provide immediate insight into the basic mechanisms of wave motion. In Section 2 the modulated gravity wave is considered in deep water and the balance of terms involved in the propagation of the energy in the wave group is determined; it is shown again that vertical transport of kinetic energy to the surface is fundamental in allowing the propagation of the modulation, and in determining the well known speed of the modulation envelope, cg. -
NONLINEAR DISPERSIVE WAVE PROBLEMS Thesis by Jon
NONLINEAR DISPERSIVE WAVE PROBLEMS Thesis by Jon Christian Luke In Partial Fulfillment of the Requirements For the Degree of Doctor of Philosophy California Institute of Technology Pasadena, California 1966 (Submitted April 4, 1966) -ii ACKNOWLEDGMENTS The author expresses his thanks to Professor G. B. Whitham, who suggested the problems treated in this dissertation, and has made available various preliminary calculations, preprints of papers, and lectur~ notes. In addition, Professor Whitham has given freely of his time for useful and enlightening discussions and has offered timely advice, encourageme.nt, and patient super vision. Others who have assisted the author by suggestions or con structive criticism are Mr. G. W. Bluman and Mr. R. Seliger of the California Institute of Technology and Professor J. Moser of New York University. The author gratefully acknowledges the National Science Foundation Graduate Fellowship that made possible his graduate education. J. C. L. -iii ABSTRACT The nonlinear partial differential equations for dispersive waves have special solutions representing uniform wavetrains. An expansion procedure is developed for slowly varying wavetrains, in which full nonl~nearity is retained but in which the scale of the nonuniformity introduces a small parameter. The first order results agree with the results that Whitham obtained by averaging methods. The perturbation method provides a detailed description and deeper understanding, as well as a consistent development to higher approximations. This method for treating partial differ ential equations is analogous to the "multiple time scale" meth ods for ordinary differential equations in nonlinear vibration theory. It may also be regarded as a generalization of geomet r i cal optics to nonlinear problems.