Welsh seascapes and their sensitivity to offshore developments No: 21 Regional Seascape Unit Porthmadog Estuary Name: The Traeth Mawr, with the Porthmadog ‘Cob’ (causeway) The narrowing upper estuary of Traeth Bach, twisting its way between rocky hills. General view of Traeth Bach, showing Ynys Gifftan (Island) and Portmeirion (near the end of the wooded peninsula). (All photos © John Briggs) 1 Welsh seascapes and their sensitivity to offshore developments No: 21 Regional Seascape Unit Porthmadog Estuary Name: Seascape Types: ESMR, ESLR Key Characteristics A confluence of two main rivers, the Glaslyn and Dwyryd, each having its own estuarine arm. Between these there is a hilly peninsula, on which the Italianate village of Portmeirion is located within a wooded setting. This is all within the wider backdrop of the picturesque, rugged, high hills and mountains of Snowdonia. The coastline is a combination of flat levels and saltmarsh mainly to the south and steep, sometimes craggy, slopes with a mosaic of woodland, pasture and semi-natural vegetation. Settlement is concentrated mainly around the ex-slate mining port town of Porthmadog, which has a harbour and a railway/road embankment known as ‘The Cob’, which crosses the Glasyln estuary, severely truncating it. The town is now a busy retail and tourist centre. This is a sheltered stretch of water with strong tidal flows, extensive sand at low tide and mud in small parts. Views are to and from Portmeirion, from Porthmadog, Borth-y-Gest, Moel-y-Gest environs, coastal path, railways including Ffestiniog Railway. Views to and from Snowdonia peaks nearby. Key cultural associations: the narrow gauge steam railways, and the embankment truncating the Glaslyn estuary, the town of Porthmadog, with its marine traditions and the fantasy Italianate village of Portmeirion. Physical Geology Cambrian rocks enclose the estuary with Ordovician rocks lying inland separating and Characteristics underlying the two valleys. Alluvial deposits cover the valley floors. Coastal landform The two main rivers that flow into the estuary, the Afon Glaslyn and Afon Dwyryd, are separated by a peninsula hill reaching 81m AOD, on which Portmeirion stands. Elsehwere there is low lying dune and salt marsh land, extensively to the south (Morfa Harlech), and north (Traeth Mawr). The latter includes much reclaimed former estuary land. Coastal landcover Parts of the lowest, flattest land have been reclaimed from salt marsh to provide pastures in rectilinear fields. There are smaller, irregularly shaped fields on parts of the hillside land, with woodland and scrub on less suitable ground. Woodland is characteristic in the areas adjacent to the Portmeirion. Settlement near the estuary is concentrated in the Porthmadog and Penrhyndeudraeth areas, the latter being largely set back and hidden from the estuary. Porthmadog town has a harbour which includes marina-style housing, whilst the nearby village of Borth-y-Gest is distinctive in having buildings focussed around the edge of a small semi-circular embayment. On the coastal hillsides in the Borth-y-gest area, there are a number of individual houses overlooking the estuary. Intertidal area The intertidal area is very extensive, the greater part of which is sand and silt, but with mud and salt marsh developing in sheltered fringes. Of the two main estuaries, the Cob (a road-rail-cycle causeway) has severely truncated the ‘Traeth Mawr’ (Glaslyn) estuary, so today it is actually the Traeth Bach (Dwyryd) estuary that is by far the largest. It stretches inland several kilometres and provides a sheltered estuary setting for Portmeirion. Further up the Dwyryd estuary is another road-rail crossing (a timber trestle toll bridge known as Pont Briwet). In its upper reaches the Dwyryd estuary runs between steep sided rocky hills in a very enclosed and picturesque landscape, In the estuary near Portmeirion lies a small rocky island (Ynys Gifftan), with its one cottage small-holding, which can be walked to, with care, at low tide. A feature of the remaining Traeth Bach estuary, near Porthmadog, is the ‘Cei Ballast’ island – an artificial dump of spent ballast from incoming slate boats – and which is therefore made up from non-local materials. Characteristics of sea This seascape is estuarine, with a strong tidal flow. There are a series of channels left at low tide. The main river channels braid and shift, flowing at different times in the past on different sides of the island of Ynys Gifftan. Hinterland landform This estuary system is surrounded on three sides by hills rising up to the rugged, rocky, high mountains of Snowdonia. The closer hills vary in from the rocky peaks of Moel-y-Gest, adjacent to the north-west, to the lower, smoother hills of Ynys Llanfihangel-y-traethau to 2 Welsh seascapes and their sensitivity to offshore developments the south-east. The width of the Traeth Bach estuary is restricted by steep rocky hillsides either side above Pont Briwet. Their upland mountainous character, running down to the sandy estuary, gives a distinctive sense of place, and overall the wider backdrop of the mountains of Snowdonia provides a dramatic and distinctive panorama from many locations on the estuary. Hinterland landcover Much of the higher, steeper hinterland has an upland and mountainous character. A mix of rural pastoral agriculture gives way through a complex mosaic of stone walled fields to semi-natural vegetation on steeper slopes and hills, including some deciduous woodlands. Woodland cover on the steeper slopes forms a strong backcloth to the coastal lowlands in many places. There is a conifer plantation on former dunes at Morfa Harlech. The main lines of communication along the coastline, including ‘A’ roads and railways are generally forced inland by the estuary and landform. Lighting The area suffers from moderate light pollution focused on the settlements with tourist facilities, and ‘A’ roads. There is bright flood lighting for a sports pitch near Pen-y-Mount, just north of Porthmadog, which can be seen from as far away as the hills above Talsarnau. Use Land/coast uses The area is a popular tourist destination, with Porthmadog becoming busy in summer with visitors. It is the main town in the area, has a harbour with marina-style housing, and is served by the popular Welsh Highland, and Ffestiniog narrow guage railway lines as well as the Cambrian Coast Line of the national network. Residential uses are concentrated in the Porthmadog, , Borth-y-gest and Penrhyndeudraeth areas. Access along the coast uses both public footpaths and beaches. The Italiante model village of Portmeirion attracts many visitors and includes coastal woodland walks Morfa Harlech is a National Nature Reserve. There are a few small, secluded, recreational beaches beside the estuary between Borth-y-gest and the estuary mouth. Many sections of the estuary are accessible on foot, with due care. Sea uses The estuary is not regularly used for water-based activities except in the line of the river channel between Porthmadog harbour and the estuary mouth. Visual and How the seascape unit The estuary is experienced from settlement, particularly Porthmadog, Borth-y-gest and sensory qualities is experienced Portmeirion, and from road, rail and footpath networks, open access land and from the estuary itself. Degree of intervisibility The concentration of visibility on the coast relates to the open sea area rather than the of land and sea estuary itself. The greater part of the estuary itself is enclosed by land. There are many prominent hills and mountains surrounding the estuary, offering elevated but often distant views of the estuary. The peninsula on which Portmeirion is located has wide visibility. Key views to sea and Locations of key views include Porthmadog, Borth-y-Gest, Portmeirion, Moel-y-Gest, along the coast coastal paths, the Ynys area (looking across to Portmeirion with a backdrop of Snowdonia), the Cambrian Coast Railway and the Ffestiniog Railway, as well as from the many surrounding hills and mountains. A wall prevents seaward views from the A470 Cob causeway, but not for the Ffestiniog Railway trains. A stretch of the A496 runs beside the upper part of the Afon Dwyryd estuary where it is constricted in width by steep sided rocky hills. This section, together with the Pont Briwet road/rail crossing has dramatic and highly memorable scenic views. Key views to land These are generally limited to leisure craft and jet skiers using the channel to and from Porthmadog harbour. Tranquillity/rem- The most remote, tranquil places lie to the south around Morfa Harlech and Ynys Gifftan. oteness/wildness The north coast generally is more settled and has most visitors in the summer. Where the estuary width is constricted above Pont Briwet, the steep sided rocky hills provide a sense of wildness and drama more associated with a mountain valley than a coastal estuary. Sense of scale Medium Openness/ Enclosed 3 Welsh seascapes and their sensitivity to offshore developments enclosure Diversity Moderately diverse Exposure An exposed estuary mouth gives way to an estuary with many sheltered embayments and upper reaches. Key cultural The town of Porthmadog is the lower terminus of the Ffestiniog Railway, a narrow-gauge associations line of immense engineering significance and culturally important also as a major enthusiast- revived railway. The re-opening of the Welsh Highland Railway (and connection to the Ffestiniog) will make this the longest passenger carrying narrow-gauge system in Britain (40 miles). The locomotives, trains, stations and engineering facilities as well as the Cob form part of the mise-en-scene at the water’s edge. The railways brought slate from inland quarries to be taken away from Porthmadog by ship. Returning ships dumped their ballast on arrival, creating what is today a small island (‘Cei Ballest’) at Porthmadog. The quays recall the tradition of shipping from the port, famous for its graceful schooners.