The Safety Assessment of Fragrance Materials
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Regulatory Toxicology and Pharmacology Regulatory Toxicology and Pharmacology 37 (2003) 218–273 www.elsevier.com/locate/yrtph The safety assessment of fragrance materials David R. Bickers,a,* Peter Calow,b Helmut A. Greim,c Jon M. Hanifin,d Adrianne E. Rogers,e Jean-Hilaire Saurat,f I. Glenn Sipes,g Robert L. Smith,h and Hachiro Tagamii a Columbia University, New York, NY, USA b The University of Sheffield, Sheffield, England, UK c Technical University, Munich, Germany d Oregon Health Sciences University, Portland, OR, USA e Boston University, Boston, MA, USA f University of Geneva, Geneva, Switzerland g University of Arizona, Tucson, AZ USA h Imperial College, London, UK i Tohoku University, Sendai, Japan Received 20 May 2002 Abstract Safety evaluation of the large number of diverse chemicals used as fragrance ingredients follows a systematic prioritization of data generation and analysis, consideration of exposure and critical analysis of the quality of the available information. In prior publications the research priorities used by the Research Institute for Fragrance Materials (RIFM), and the methods of exposure estimation used by industry have been summarized. This paper provides details of the approach used by the RIFM Expert Panel (REXPAN), to examine the dermal effects, systemic toxicity and environmental consequences of the use of and exposure to fra- grance materials, which allow a reliable determination of safe use under intended conditions. The key to the usefulness of this analysis is the grouping of more than 2600 discrete ingredients into classes, based on chemical structures. Research sponsored by RIFM, data supplied by member companies, and relevant published reports from many sources are all considered during hazard characterization. A discussion is provided of REXPANÕs decision tree approach to assessing the dermal, systemic and environ- mental endpoints and the types and quality of data included. This overall process results in well-documented conclusions which are provided to the International Fragrance Association (IFRA) as the basis for consideration of a new or existing Fragrance Material Standard and to industry for appropriate product risk management actions. Ó 2003 Elsevier Science (USA). All rights reserved. 1. Introduction to the use of fragrances including irritant dermatitis, dyschromia, allergic contact dermatitis, and photosen- Fragrance materials are used in a wide variety of sitivity (phototoxicity and photoallergy) associated with consumer products ranging from perfumes to skin fragrances. A given fragrance product may contain products such as creams, lotions, detergents, and vari- 50–300 different ingredients, any one of which may give ous other personal and household products. The po- the product a certain esthetic and commercial ‘‘edge’’ tential for exposure to these materials in our society is, that a given manufacturer will be anxious to protect. therefore, very high, particularly for those products that Since the details of ingredients and formulations are come into direct contact with the skin. It is essential to carefully guarded by each proprietary organization, the minimize the number of potential skin disorders linked fragrance industry is often perceived as rather less than forthcoming by consumers and their physicians. The * Corresponding author. Address: Research Institute for Fragrance widespread use of fragrances in perfumery (Fenn, 1989) Materials, Inc. (RIFM), 50 Tice Boulevard, Woodcliff Lake, NJ 07677, and the development of perfumes (Schreiber, 1996) have USA. Fax: 1-201-689-8088. been described in detail. 0273-2300/03/$ - see front matter Ó 2003 Elsevier Science (USA). All rights reserved. doi:10.1016/S0273-2300(03)00003-5 D.R. Bickers et al. / Regulatory Toxicology and Pharmacology 37 (2003) 218–273 219 In general, three areas are of concern: harmful effects of fragrance chemicals on the skin including irritant dermatitis, allergic contact dermatitis, phototoxicity, and photoallergy; toxic effects that might arise through transdermal absorption of the fragrance chemical; en- vironmental consequences of fragrance chemicals in sewage and waste water from sewage treatment plants. In order to address these concerns in a systematic and responsible manner, the international fragrance industry established, in 1966, the science-based, not-for-profit Research Institute for Fragrance Materials (RIFM). The mission of the organization is to: 1. Engage in research and evaluation of fragrance mate- rials through an independent Expert Panel. 2. Determine safety in use. Fig. 1. 3. Gather, analyze, and publish scientific information. 4. Distribute scientific data and safety assessment judg- ments to RIFM members, industry associations and data from all pertinent published medical, toxicological other interested parties. and environmental literature (more than 39,000 refer- 5. Maintain an active dialogue with official interna- ences). tional agencies. In its early years, the Panel gave priority to dermal At the time RIFM was established, its leadership safety issues and accordingly the majority of experts were elected to create an Expert Advisory Panel (hereafter dermatologists and/or scientists with expertise in skin referred to as the Panel) of scientists and physicians to toxicology. More recently, with the growing awareness of guide and advise the Institute. Accordingly, the first the potential for transdermal absorption and inhalation meeting of the Panel took place at the ChemistÕs Club, and ingestion of fragrance materials leading to systemic New York City on July 7th 1967, chaired by a toxicolo- exposure and toxicity, it has become necessary to expand gist, Dr. Bernard Oser. Since that time, the Panel, drawn the PanelÕs focus. At present the Panel is multidisciplin- from the United States, Europe and Asia, has continued ary in nature with members having expertise in derma- to meet regularly three times per year. Two of the original tology, pharmacokinetics, toxicokinetics, toxicology, Panel members, both dermatologists, Drs. Raymond R. pathology, and environmental science. Suskind and Donald J. Birmingham, served for 30 years, The purpose of this paper is to outline the principles and they and their colleagues established the PanelÕs and procedures used by the Panel to assess the safety of standards for independence and scientific validation of its both existing and newly developed fragrance materials. decisions. Requirements for appointment to Panel The overall approach is described in four documents. membershipinclude expertise in the fields of dermatol- The first is the method by which RIFM selects its human ogy, toxicology, pathology, and/or environmental health research priorities, through a consideration of science; independence from the fragrance industry; and a volume of use, structure activity and known toxic effects research-based scientific background. The Panel period- (Ford et al., 2000). A similar system is used to select ically reviews its composition and identifies and elects environmental priorities through the use of predicted new members and its chair. RIFM provides administra- effect and no-effect concentrations (Salvito et al., 2002). tive support and sponsorship and day-to-day oversight Risk also is addressed by means of estimating exposure of studies that have been requested by the Panel. See from the use of fragrance ingredients in cosmetic prod- Opdyke (1984) for a historical perspective. ucts (Cadby et al., 2002). This paper describes the pro- Recently, some changes in the data review and eval- cess employed by the Panel to assess hazard and uation process have been made. These relate to the exposure, using chemical structure groupings to predict manner in which the Panel pursues its activities and and evaluate effects, a decision tree approach to deter- provides results to industry for proper stewardship of its mining the adequacy of data for review, and a deter- products. The entire process is summarized schemati- mination of safety under intended conditions of use. cally in Fig. 1. Outside experts and RIFM staff scientists provide consultation as needed. All information derived from 2. Principles the studies is maintained by RIFM in a database that currently includes 2665 fragrance materials, both natu- RIFMÕs scientific process for data collection and ral and synthetic. This database contains relevant re- evaluation is described in Fig. 2. Key to the initiation of ports from RIFM and the fragrance industry, as well as any work is an exhaustive survey of the published and 220 D.R. Bickers et al. / Regulatory Toxicology and Pharmacology 37 (2003) 218–273 Fig. 3. Fig. 2. characteristics be defined. Chemical structure helps to proprietary literature to determine what is known about predict transdermal absorption, metabolism and dispo- an individual fragrance ingredient. Concurrently, the sition and functional groups that can influence toxicity. criteria documents are used to select priorities for data Despite encompassing more than 2600 discrete chemi- generation. A preliminary assessment is then prepared cals, fragrance materials can be classified into some 23 for critical evaluation. basic structural groups (see Table 1 and Appendix A). It is necessary to have a systematic process and cri- In a joint exercise of the Expert Panel, RIFM staff teria for prioritization for subsequent review of struc- scientists and industry scientists, discrete organic turally related groups of materials. This takes into chemicals were divided into structural groups (structures account the major