DAILY EDITION JANUARY 15, 2019

Fashion. Beauty. Business. Quick Learner Fueling Growth The New Retail Heron Preston set to LVMH Luxury Alibaba’s Michael Evans hit the runway in Paris. Ventures makes an on why the group is Pages 14 and 15 undisclosed investment not like Amazon. in Gabriela Hearst. Page 3 Page 2

FASHION Buyers Cite The Collections Strong Trends In Milan ● In outerwear and tailoring, coats, long puffers, parkas and softer suits appealed to retailers.

BY WWD STAFF MILAN — As Mario Grauso, president of Holt Renfrew, put it, men can say goodbye to a small coat closet. In Milan, brands showed terrific outerwear pieces that appealed to retailers, from coats to bomber jackets, long puffers and parkas. In sync with London’s runways, there was a shift toward tailoring, now developed in softer and deconstructed ways. Textures were key and animal prints were a must, as well as corduroy. Retailers were happy with what they saw and several said their fall budgets are up in Milan. and left a mark, as did Ermenegildo and its show at the grand Central Station. Here, retailers talk about some of the Milan highlights. CONTINUED ON PAGE 12

BUSINESS U.S. Gov’t Shutdown Bleeds Into The New Spending ● The stalemate is affecting Elegance consumers, while hotly awaited IPOs are put on hold. Silvia Venturini Fendi was one busy BY KATHRYN HOPKINS WITH designer during Milan men’s, tapping Karl CONTRIBUTIONS FROM EVAN CLARK Lagerfeld for a one-season collaboration, unveiling the first Baguette for men With 800,000 federal workers not and declaring her allegiance to tailored receiving pay equating to more than $2 billion last Friday amid the ferocious clothing, albeit with softer edges and a standoff between President Trump looser silhouette than some of her fellow and Congress over funding for a wall at designers. “Today, for a young kid or for the southern border, the government someone who didn’t experience it before, shutdown is starting to take a direct toll on consumer spending. to be in a suit and tie is the most subversive The partial U.S. government shutdown attire,” said Venturini Fendi before showing officially became the longest in history a lively lineup of fine tailoring with an arty, this weekend and as it shows no signs of streety edge and lots of plays on duality — ending, retailers are getting caught in the and producing the standout show of the crosshairs. This is particularly prevalent in day. For more on Milan, see pages 6 to 11. areas that rely on the government for PHOTOGRAPH BY DAVIDE MAESTRI employment. In Washington, D.C., which alongside its surrounding areas is home to CONTINUED ON PAGE 16 12 JANUARY 15, 2019

TALENT SCOUTING (HOT NEW Prada BRANDS): (not a new Buyers Cite Strong brand but a new sound, turn, and maturity in the collection). IS YOUR OPEN-TO-BUY UP OR Trends in Milan STABLE? Increase[d]. CONTINUED FROM PAGE 1 RICCARDO TORTATO tucked into pants and belted; BRUCE PASK Fashion director eCommerce Men’s wear fashion director, novelty dinner jackets in at Tsum.ru Bergdorf Goodman and unusual colors and fabrics Neiman Marcus — frequently beaded; bags, FAVORITE COLLECTIONS: bags, bags — layered, attached, Zegna Couture. Best location FAVORITE COLLECTIONS: Tom ornamented, practical, not and best show. I went to re-see Ford presented a beautiful, chic, practical and worn all over your the collection in the showroom gentlemanly collection that was body: On your back, on your and the product has so many buttoned up and exactly the right waist, around the neck; heavy, interesting components. Some mood. I really liked the Prada heavy soled shoes. items are made from 100 percent show, with a great combination MUST-HAVE ITEM: A military recycled cashmere and PEC. of sartorial and utility in her coat from Prada: Prada beaded Leather is mixed with cashmere [Miuccia Prada’s] heavily broadcloth men’s shirt (and who in some suits. The shapes are military-influenced collection, wouldn’t want to match Gigi amazing and including great interpretations Hadid’s dress); camel dinner represents now the perfect of the house’s signature nylon. jacket from Cucinelli; gray, long mix between style, quality and Neil Barrett presented a terrific collarless puffer at Zegna; Fendi innovation. Bravo! The second 20th-anniversary collection filled man purse; any of the printed best show was . Super with great novelty and exciting dinner jackets from Tom Ford. energy and super powerful. statement pieces that felt very BEST VENUE: Zegna at the Milan Loved the Ford collaboration. new. Kiton always delivers the train station forcing us to utilize TOP TRENDS: No streetwear; yes, most luxurious and still surprising our outerwear. trendy fashionable product. tailored and sportswear SAY BYE-BYE TO: MUST-HAVE ITEM: Santoni’s croco collections perfect for our A small coat closet. shoes and lumberjack boots. customer, and their new printed IS YOUR OPEN-TO-BUY UP OR BEST VENUE: Central train station vicuña was quite extraordinary. STABLE?: Stable. in Milan for Zegna Couture. TOP TRENDS: This more SAY BYE-BYE TO: Oversize. gentlemanly mood with a heavy IS YOUR OPEN-TO-BUY UP, English influence continues, with DOWN, OR STABLE? Up. traditional tweeds and tailored TOM KALENDERIAN Executive vice president, topcoats looking great, especially general merchandise manager when worn over weekend wear; men’s/children’s/home, FIONA FIRTH I like that juxtaposition. Camel Barneys New York Buying director at Mr Porter continues to be a dominant color story, great in outerwear, FAVORITE COLLECTIONS: FAVORITE COLLECTIONS: suedes and knitwear. Texture is The Prada show was a Prada, Aspesi and Tom Ford. key, with great corduroy pieces knockout; best show replete TOP TRENDS: Tailoring and from Brunello Cucinelli and with Millennial moments to tailoring fabrics, wide silhouette Massimo Alba, plush velvets please this generation. Another trousers, combat trousers, from a rich collection, and high point: Fendi Men’s was padded coats. suedes and shearlings are the great; an eclectic mix from the MUST-HAVE ITEM: A new suit. weekend outerwear of choice sophisticated color palette of BEST VENUE: Zegna at the Milano seen everywhere. There is also burgundy, brown and taupe Centrale train station and Prada a predominance of shorter shot with metallics to the playful at Fondazione Prada Milano. blouson-style outerwear and printed puffers. TALENT SCOUTING (HOT NEW bomber jackets, with great TOP TRENDS: Milan style for fall BRANDS): I’m looking forward to examples seen at the rather 2019 is all about plush fabrics in the Paris shows where we expect epic Ermenegildo Zegna show. rich shades of burgundy, copper, to see a lot of newness. There has been a strong evening petrol blue and gunmetal. All of component throughout the which works well for the office shows, which is a category that today or leisure time. JUSTIN BERKOWITZ has been performing very well MUST-HAVE ITEM: The greatcoat Bloomingdale’s mens given the expanding range on in a big plaid or plush fabric. fashion director offer: velvets, jacquards, prints. BEST VENUE: No one packed a BEST COLLECTIONS: Tom Ford has an extraordinary room better than the Neapolitan This season, it felt like Francesco evening program with designers. Kiton and Risso found his groove at Marni. immediately iconic marble-ized reminded us of the importance He hit the trends, but made evening jackets. There is still of relationships; their innate them feel distinct to the brand. a strong deconstruction and genuine hospitality makes their He produced what may be active focus in tailoring seen in a style irresistible. my favorite coat thus far this luxurious way at KNT and Kiton TALENT SCOUTING (HOT NEW season — the camel single- and more technical fabrications BRANDS): Daniel Lee’s Bottega breasted with the leopard trim. in general are informing active- Veneta is one of the chicest, Neil Barrett’s 20th anniversary inspired sportswear, which is still modern collections I’ve seen. I was show was quite excellent. What a big presence. blown away from both the minimal felt like a departure from his MUST-HAVE ITEM: A tailored understated simplicity of his tendency toward more minimal topcoat in any English-influenced designs as well as the incredible rigor, this collection had a bevy glen plaid or houndstooth check. attention to detail of the artisanal of pattern and felt more innately Great when worn over tailoring workmanship of these beautiful personal; it incorporated both but looks especially fresh with clothes and accessories. Neil’s English heritage and and a sweater. IS YOUR OPEN-TO-BUY UP OR his forward-thinking design BEST VENUE: Without a STABLE? We are encouraged aesthetic. Kiton’s presentation question, Ermenegildo Zegna’s to find growth with some of the was also a standout. Their focus epic takeover of the Stazione fresh ideas coming out of Milan. on development is unparalleled, Centrale was extraordinary, with especially their experimentation an amazing use of the space to with soft construction and showcase Alessandro Sartori’s KAREN VERNET devotion to fabric innovation. innovative collection. Men fashion director and Not to mention their attention e-business development director to detail: They went so far as at Printemps: to hand paint the decorative MARIO GRAUSO FAVORITE COLLECTIONS: potted plants in the showroom President, Holt Renfrew Prada and Versace. to ensure they had the correct and cheetah were represented shoe. We’re beginning to see the seemingly disparate elements FAVORITE COLLECTIONS: TOP TRENDS: The comeback of autumnal hues on the leaves. in almost every runway show. It chunky sneaker evolve into the into single looks at shows like One of the best seasons ever at the tailoring spirit! Streetwear TOP TRENDS: It’s not often felt freshest when introduced as chunky shoe and the chunky boot. Marni, Neil Barrett and Prada Prada. Both men’s and women’s is still present but less you see a trend occupy both a trim or a detail (like at Marni) BEST VENUE: The location of pointed to this personalization looks all seemed to be must- “omnipresent.” Colors: mix of designer fashion and the or applied in a new way (like the Sunnei show, the Palazzo del of style. So did a number of the haves, from the accessories black and flashy colors. tailored clothing market, but it’s at Neil Barrett or MSGM). Also Ghiaccio. I’ve attended shows presentations at the tailoring to the ready-to-wear — it made MUST-HAVE ITEMS: Reinterpreted happening now: British heritage feeling fresh is the cargo pant. there in the past but typically the houses, where an understanding you want everything. Other outerwear; transparent materials; patterns are everywhere. Seeing them both in technical windows and the clerestory are of how to put together an iannoni standouts were Bottega creative pants; panthère/animal They’re reinvented through soft fabrics and in natural fibers, covered over. At the Sunnei show, unexpected mix was paramount. G Veneta and Brunello Cucinelli. print; vinyl, glossy and colorful construction in the tailored cotton and wool. We’re excited they were not — it allowed for TALENT SCOUTING (HOT TOP TRENDS: shoes; synthetic fur; cocoon market, fluid and more volume- about this silhouette returning; lovely afternoon light. NEW BRANDS): Barbanera’s iovanni iovanni

Military everything; themed knitwear; belts. focused tailoring in the designer it’s an innately familiar look for SAY BYE-BYE TO: The head-to- presentation of their first G coats at Prada, Zegna and BEST VENUE: Sunnei (it is not the market, and incorporated the customer but is updated and toe look. One of my takeaways collection of clothing was Cucinelli; chunky, mixed-media first show at all but this season, into technical wools in some tweaked in silhouette and with from the shows was styling incredibly charming; the attention knits that can be worn as the brand has made a big step outerwear. The second big one interesting detailing. that felt quite personal, and to detail and fabric research were is animal print. Leopard, zebra, outerwear; heavy outerwear forward and is more mature). MUST-HAVE ITEM: A lug sole still wearable. The layering of immediately apparent. ► by hotograph P 10 JANUARY 15, 2019

Tod’s Massimo Alba MP Massimo Piombo Dondup

and pied-de-poule to graphic patchworks. wild rosehip, green and mustard among Mexican red silk embroidery. Tod’s staple Gommino evolved with a other highlights. The striped shirts with “I’m a nomad, I like to travel the world new toe cap with an embossed pebble-sole a waxy finish were lovely as well, with a to create a small dream,” said the designer The pattern that also wraps around the upper. British country gentleman and Bloomsbury of his punk-panache styling. He recalled There was also a new light running shoe in Group themes also inspiring the collection. a dinner thrown in the venue by Vogue Collections brushed calfskin with a Velcro fastening. More sober options included a simple Italia’s late Franca Sozzani. “She told me — Luisa Zargani gray wool jacket, the Brera, based on the ‘Massimo, this is your place,’” he said. Milan types the orchestra directors at La Scala “The place is unique. All the artists used wear during rehearsals, with an optional to come to work here in the Fifties, Sixties, Massimo Alba matching pant. Seventies, to smoke, exchange and write. At Massimo Alba, it’s all about the Nodding to Alba’s love of animals, the It’s one of the most eccentric places.” — K.F. Tod’s staples: “a jacket, a pair of trousers, a collection housed a capsule of stoles and Tod’s men’s creative director Andrea shirt.” But it’s the way he does it: the handkerchiefs with watercolor prints of Incontri showed an edited and focused colors, the way they match together, and African animals, made in collaboration Dondup collection for the brand, one that revolved the way he and his team finish the fabrics. with an Italian artist who goes by the name Dondup’s collection for fall was extensive around the concept of “liquidity” and “It’s not about keywords or storytelling of Clementina. Ten percent of the proceeds but well-edited, with the elaboration of “the gentleman flow,” a fluid wardrobe or content, we’re focusing on the product, will go to African Parks, a nonprofit key outerwear pieces and the brand’s core that is neither formal nor sportswear, but the product for us is essential,” said the association that protects and conserves denim products. adjustable to and fit for different situations. designer, who recalled his time living parks in Africa and for which she is a A white sheepskin bomber jacket flanked Indeed, “seasonality is over,” Tod’s chief in Scotland as the creative director of young ambassador. — Katya Foreman a beautiful hand-knit sweater with inlay Diego Della Valle believes. “We need a Ballantyne. motifs. These could be paired with any of the transversal product that will last for most “For me, true elegance is the farmers variations on Dondup’s denim pants. Black of the year and from one Monday to the and the people working in the mills. MP Massimo denim is a strong trend for fall at the brand, next,” he said. They’re doing their job in the perfect way, seen on new five-pocket models, for example, Incontri showed beautiful and light and they feel comfortable in their clothes,” Piombo or embellished with black velvet piping. delavé wool or cashmere double-breasted he said, summing up his ideal attitude as Milan’s storied, centenarian Jamaica There was a military streak in the coats with a delicate wadding as a being: “Normal, gentle, soft and informal café strewn with local punters was the collection, which included eye-catching detachable lining. The eco-sustainable in a certain way.” perfect setting for Massimo Piombo’s pants with a patchwork of maxi pockets in fabric called Waterborne has the touch of Part of the collection’s preciousness latest presentation. Grouped in a side different fabrics, from satin to corduroy, soft leather and has “zero impact on the lay in the artisanal processes, such as a room stood a cluster of mannequins in worn with an oversized cardigan with a environment,” noted the designer. The gloriously soft cashmere sweater carded by bohemian looks that jumbled washed camouflage-effect finishing. boxy silhouette was also seen in a three- hand using thistles, available in plain and knits, plaid blanket skirts and colored wool The military colors appeared on a puffer button jacket, a parka and a bomber, striped versions, or another style made of coats tied with a mix of scarves in vivid jacket that was jazzed up by large horizontal worn with a practical pouch with padded a cashmere, mohair and silk blend with retro printed silks and textured wools. bands in bright fuchsia and burgundy. quilting, leather trim and two-tone jewel-tone geometric motifs. As usual, the old school cloths did all the There were also some less sporty looks, stripes, slung across the torso. The look The collection’s autumn palette sang in talking, from the overcoats in deep blue such as a white shirt with the 12 astrological was minimal, which is key for Incontri a rust-colored velvet double-breasted coat, alpaca, mohair and cashmere blends from signs applied in gold sequins, which stood this season. the same fabric resurfacing on updates of Hungary or a dark green Austrian wool out next to a sleek coat with velvet revers. There were also cozy and cocooning the Gstaad jacket with reinforced elbows, typically used for bed plaids to a bordeaux Such glittering details also appeared as Lurex puffers with motifs ranging from checks with brushed flannel shirts in shades of scarf in Peruvian mohair edged with profiles on a trenchcoat or pants. — L.Z.