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Keys TravelerThe Magazine

Simply the Keys New Keys accommodations Island weddings Hemingway look-alikes Quirky Keys cuisine

fla-keys.com Keys Traveler ANDY Race over The Magazine

Editor Andy Newman the ocean Managing Editor Carol Shaughnessy Copy Editor O’NEAL ROB Buck Banks Production Assistant Ashley Serrate Writers Julie Botteri Katie Fraguela 12 Laura Myers

“Keys Traveler” is published by the Contents Monroe County Tourist Development Council, the official visitor marketing 4 New resorts debut from to agency for the Keys & Key West. 6 Say ‘I do’ to a wedding Director 7 Curtain rises on quality at Key West theater Harold Wheeler Director of Sales ‘Bloodline’ focuses on Islamorada, Key Largo Stacey Mitchell 8 Florida Keys RV camping Florida Keys & Key West 10 Keys cuisine features over-the-top options Visitor Information fla-keys.com 12 Simply the Keys Each April in the Florida Keys, 1,500 runners fla-keys.co.uk line up on the Marathon side of the modern 16 Thunderbolt ... Queen of Marathon shipwrecks fla-keys.de Seven Mile and compete in a footrace 17 Islamorada captain makes rod-building an art across the convergence of the Atlantic fla-keys.it Ocean and . The annual fla-keys.ie 18 The importance of being Ernest Run was first staged fla-keys.fr in 1982 to mark the completion of a fla-keys.nl 20 Keys offer adventures and events for women bridge-building program that saw 37 fla-keys.be New dance club enhances Key West nightlife new spans constructed for the Florida fla-keys.cn Keys , including 21 Skydive over the Lower Keys Toll-Free in the U.S. and Canada the then-new Seven Mile Bridge. 1-800-FLA-KEYS Tour explores Key West’s past For the free monthly 22 Keys breweries craft popular products “Keys Traveler” electronic newsletter, 24 Traveling tips to the Florida Keys subscribe at www.fla-keys.com/keystraveler BOB CARE

©2016-17 Monroe County Tourist facebook.com/floridakeysandkeywest Development Council Printed in the U.S.A. By Original Impressions @thefloridakeys

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ANDY NEWMAN Cover photo of paddleboarders enjoying sunset off Islamorada by Andy Newman CARLOS ESTAPE BILL HANSEN CATERING private pier, while activity offerings include New resorts debut from Key Largo to Key West paddleboarding and kayaking in a 15-foot- deep lagoon. In Islamorada, Little Basin Villas has opened in the Arts District with nine three- bedroom, 3.5-bath weekly rentals offering gourmet kitchens. Amenities include free Wi-Fi, a community pool, beach area and in-home washer and dryer. On , just outside of Key West, the new 20-acre, 175-unit Oceans Edge Key West Hotel & Marina — billed by Singh Investors as “Key West’s largest luxury resort” — will have six pools, a dog park, watersports, a restaurant, bar, fitness building and Starbucks. Waterfront suites and rooms range from 382 to 575 square feet. The marina offers 111 wet and 52 dry slips. Also on Stock Island, the 100-room boutique The Hotel Key West at Stock Island Marina is to open in 2017 alongside an existing 220-slip marina. Water-view rooms and suites are to feature private PLAYA LARGO PLAYA Playa Largo in Key Largo features a beautiful bayfront beach. terraces. First-floor accommodations have ix new Florida Keys resorts are bringing luxury Playa Largo offers a 6,000-square-foot beach, 10 private outdoor showers. accommodations and nearly 460 new units to the secluded bungalows, a three-bedroom beach house Finally, the 22-unit H2O Suites Hotel is subtropical island chain. with plunge pool, 40,000 total square feet of meeting to open in Key West with one-bedroom S suites, a rooftop deck and pool, and In Key Largo, two new properties offer luxury venues space, a full-service spa, fitness center, marina, two for meetings, weddings and retreats, and a villa tennis courts, basketball court and kids camp. 11 individual plunge pools. It’s under vacation property has opened in Islamorada. A traditional steakhouse, ceviche and sushi bar development by Maryland-based Meisel Two new marina resorts are transforming Stock and seafood venue are on-site. Kosher options are Holdings. Island, reminiscent of an authentic fishermen’s village, available. — Laura Myers just northeast of Key West. And a boutique property is Also in Key Largo stands Largo, a private sanctuary. playalargoresort.com opening in Key West. Nestled among mahogany, palm and buttonwood trees largoresort.com In Key Largo, the 14-acre, 144-room elegant Playa and orchids, it accommodates up to 15 single guests littlebasinvillas.com Largo Resort & Spa — the first new-build resort in the or 30 in doubles. oceansedgekeywest.com Upper Keys in 21 years — has opened as the 100th It offers a 5,000-square-foot lodge and six h2osuites.com addition to Autograph Collection Hotels. 800-square-foot bungalows. Up to 100 can gather on a thehotelkeywest.com

LITTLE BASIN VILLAS OCEANS EDGE

Oceans Edge’s rooms offer ANDY NEWMAN Little Basin Villas features weekly rentals in views of the Atlantic Ocean. The new lobby at the Amara Cay Resort. Islamorada’s Arts District. Largo, in Key Largo, offers experiences for weddings and small groups.

4 fla-keys.com • fla-keys.co.uk • fla-keys.it • fla-keys.de • fla-keys.ie • fla-keys.fr • fla-keys.nl • fla-keys.be • fla-keys.cn Keys Traveler Keys Traveler fla-keys.com • fla-keys.co.uk • fla-keys.it • fla-keys.de • fla-keys.ie • fla-keys.fr • fla-keys.nl • fla-keys.be • fla-keys.cn 5 ROB O’NEAL Curtain rises on quality SAEED AYANI/NETFLIX at Key West Theater he Key West Theater is known for its top–tier musical offer- Tings, theatrical productions, comedy specials and locally pro- duced island city events. This year the venue’s ecletic performances focus on a unique variety of nationally known musical acts. Originally a Baptist church, the

here is no better place to say BOB CARE (2) theater hosted a quirky long-running “I do” than in the unique and Say ‘I do’ to a production titled “Flamingo Follies” Tmemorable Florida Keys & Key in the 1990s before closing down West. The island chain is well known for over 15 years. for its waterfront ceremonies and a In 2014 a show called “By Popu- wide array of venue options such as lar Demand” was created around historic sites, beaches, restaurants, the then-unrenovated space, which FloridaTiki bars and elegant lodging Keys wedding led to the success of the theater. facilities. “Everything sort of steamrolled Notable wedding locations include from there,” said Michael Marrero, the Key West grounds of author the venue’s executive director. Ernest Hemingway’s former home Today the 288-seat boutique and the restored “vacation White theater brings a new type of culture House” of former president Harry S. and a new level of musical enter- Truman, luxury resorts such as Key tainment to Keys audiences. Largo’s Playa Largo or the Lower “The response has been phenom- Keys’ Little Palm Island, and the his- enal,” said Marrero. “Many people toric Fossil Reef State felt this is something that has been Geological Site in Islamorada. missing from the Key West cultural Kyle Chandler plays law enforcement For couples seeking a seafaring scene for some time.” officer John Rayburn in “Bloodline.” wedding experience, opportunities The theater joins The Studios of abound aboard tall ships, sailing Key West, Tropic Cinema and St. vessels, glass-bottom boats and Paul’s Episcopal Church to create a ‘Bloodline’ focuses on luxury motor yachts around the cultural corridor on Eaton Street in Keys. Certified divers can exchange Key West’s historic Old Town. vows underwater at the Christ of Bringing both national and local Islamorada, Key Largo the Deep statue, located off the talent into the Key West spotlight, n 2015 Netflix, an online stream- alty. Action is sparked by the return world-renowned dive capital of Key the theater hosts dozens of con- ing media provider, launched a of a black-sheep Rayburn son. Largo, and lovers of marine mam- certs by renowned performers I13-episode season of “Bloodline,” Scenic aerials of Keys , mals can tie the knot at the Middle throughout the year. an original Florida Keys–set psycho- dense forests offshore Keys’ acclaimed Dolphin Research Among the 2017 calendar high- logical thriller about a contemporary and landmark Key Largo and Center. lights are shows featuring Rock ‘n’ Upper Keys family. Islamorada locations are featured. Because the Florida Keys & Key Roll Hall of Fame inductee Dave Stars of the blockbuster series They include Pierre’s Restaurant, West continues to be one of the Mason, legendary band Southside include Oscar-winner Sissy Spacek, The Moorings Village, the beach at top five U.S. wedding destinations Johnny and the Asbury Jukes and Emmy-winner Kyle Chandler, “ER” Founders Park and watering holes for mainstream couples, it is no country music hitmaker Phil Vassar. veteran Linda Cardellini and noted like the Green Turtle Inn and the surprise that the island chain is Other highlights include a local Australian actor Ben Mendelsohn, Oceanview Pub, a casual hub for equally popular with gay and lesbian musicians’ showcase known as who won an Emmy for best support- Islamorada fishing tournaments. couples. More than 625 same-sex “The Sunday Ramble” and innova- ing actor for his role in “Bloodline.” The third and planned final marriages have been conducted in tive plays — many of them original The plot follows the exploits of 10-episode season on Netflix is to Key West since early 2015. offerings by Keys playwrights. the Rayburns — hard working, but air in 2017. — Katie Fraguela Beach balls are tossed in lieu of rice to celebrate a wedding at Hawks Cay Resort — Katie Fraguela with secrets that threaten to expose — Julie Botteri fla-keys.com/weddings & Marina on near Marathon. thekeywesttheater.com a shameful past and test sibling loy- netflix.com

6 fla-keys.com • fla-keys.co.uk • fla-keys.it • fla-keys.de • fla-keys.ie • fla-keys.fr • fla-keys.nl • fla-keys.be • fla-keys.cn Keys Traveler Keys Traveler fla-keys.com • fla-keys.co.uk • fla-keys.it • fla-keys.de • fla-keys.ie • fla-keys.fr • fla-keys.nl • fla-keys.be • fla-keys.cn 7 ANDY NEWMAN ecent filming in Key West of “The badminton-sized court. Leisure Seeker,” starring actors Helen Mirren and The new Keys Palms Luxury RV Resort is to open in RDonald Sutherland, is renewing interest in all- Key Largo in fall 2017 with full 100-, 50- and 30-amp American road trips to the Florida Keys. electric hookups, a clubhouse, pool, community center The film’s 70s-something married couple journey and fitness gym. cross-country, defying the orders of their doctors and Other popular campgrounds include Florida Keys RV camping grown children, in a vintage Winnebago Leisure Seeker RV Park & Resort, recently renovated “with big rigs motorhome to see Ernest Hemingway’s Key West in mind” on Grassy Key. Lazy Lakes RV Resort has a home. 7-acre saltwater lake on . Island ‘glamping’ at its best In the Keys, “glamping,” or glamorous camping, Florida Keys state parks feature remarkable ameni- means traveling in the air-conditioned comfort of a ties for campers. recreational vehicle or luxury motorhome. Activities John Pennekamp State Park, with 47 might include fishing, boating, scuba diving, full-facility camping sites for RV and tent campers, of- and kayaking. fers scuba diving, snorkeling, canoeing and kayaking, Keys campgrounds offer stunning sunsets and wa- fishing, boat rentals and glass-bottom boat tours of the terfront views, just minutes from ’s aquama- Florida Keys’ living coral reef. rine waters to the west and the turquoise hues of the State Park on Long Key has waterfront Atlantic Ocean to the east. sites, nature and kayak rentals. “The traditional idea of a vacation in the Keys often Big Pine Key’s Bahia Honda State Park, with more involves relaxing at the beach,” said Jennifer Ludovice, than 500 acres, features 48 RV sites, 32 additional communications director for Chicago-based Equity spots for tents and pop-ups, and six cabins. Highly Lifestyle Properties Inc. “We’re finding that more and rated sandy beaches front both the Atlantic and the more visitors to our RV resorts are staying very active.” Gulf of Mexico, with swimming in warm shallow waters. Owner-operators of the 28-acre RV Resort Boyd’s Key West Campground on Stock Island is & Marina on Long Key and 75-acre oceanfront Sun- the closest camping facility to Florida’s southernmost shine Key RV Resort & Marina near Big Pine Key, Equity island city, with a heated pool and sites for campers, has added courts for basketball and pickleball — simi- RVs and tents. lar to badminton, tennis and pingpong and played on a — Laura Myers

EQUITY LIFESTYLE PROPERTIES

EQUITY LIFESTYLE

Fiesta Key RV Resort & Marina is located on Long Key. Picturesque views of the Gulf of Mexico are available for RV visitors at Sunshine Key RV Resort & Marina in the Lower Keys.

8 fla-keys.com • fla-keys.co.uk • fla-keys.it • fla-keys.de • fla-keys.ie • fla-keys.fr • fla-keys.nl • fla-keys.be • fla-keys.cn Keys Traveler Keys Traveler fla-keys.com • fla-keys.co.uk • fla-keys.it • fla-keys.de • fla-keys.ie • fla-keys.fr • fla-keys.nl • fla-keys.be • fla-keys.cn 9 FOOD IMAGES COURTESY OF CASTAWAY WATERFRONT RESTAURANT AND SUSHI BAR, BLUE HEAVEN AND BURDINES WATERFRONT CHIKI TIKI. MRS. MAC’S KITCHEN BY ANDY NEWMAN.

Fried Key lime pie is a favorite at Burdines Waterfront Chiki Tiki, a Lionfish sushi is popular at the Castaway Waterfront Restaurant and Sushi Bar in Marathon. locals’ favorite in Marathon.

ture dessert of the Florida Keys, it’s Keys cuisine features over-the-top options also Florida’s official pie as desig- nated by the state legislature. n the Florida Keys, locals em- crispy French fries. roll at Castaway Waterfront Restau- Former dive shop owner Gloria brace an easygoing lifestyle, The highly recognizable Indo- rant and Sushi Bar in Marathon. Teague and pastry chef Robert Ifunky hotspots, and a lively arts Pacific red lionfish is a voracious Also in Marathon, Burdines Water- Spencer Jr. are the masterminds vibe as well as some of the invader in Atlantic waters, but a front Chiki Tiki is a locals’ secret. behind Islamorada Restaurant & hook-good foodie favorites. tasty alternative on Keys menus. The off-the-beaten-path second- Bakery, a yummy breakfast and Located in Key West’s Bahama Its venomous spines are removed story eatery’s food is simple, fast, lunch emporium. Village neighborhood, Blue Heaven before preparation and the light not fancy, plentiful, inexpensive and Known for friendly service and stands on the site of a boxing ring and flaky meat is safe to eat and deliciously homemade. elegant wedding cakes, the eatery where Ernest Hemingway once provides healthful benefits. The real treat is the fried Key lime is most famous for huge cinnamon refereed local matches. Breakfast One local restaurateur, avid spear pie, a chimichanga-like plateful of and sticky buns that Spencer cre- is popular at this funky eatery with fisherman John Mirabella, serves his tangy sweetness that’s big enough ated — earning it the affectionate dishes like the BLT Benedict that in- lionfish catch as ceviche or cooked. for three people to taste. nickname of Bob’s Bunz. cludes bacon, fresh Florida lobster Most popular is the lionfish sushi Key lime pie is not just the signa- Pastries are so large that Teague for “L” and tomato. is convinced the Overseas High- Soft-poached eggs, grilled sliced way weigh station at mile marker tomato, chunks of spiny lobster 80 was put up because of all the tail and crispy bacon sit lusciously calories consumed at Bob’s Bunz. atop a toasted English muffin Since 1976 Key Largo has been covered with the house’s fresh lime home to Mrs. Mac’s Kitchen, where hollandaise sauce. the “World Famous Key Lime Pie” Just outside Key West on neigh- signage is no exaggeration. boring Stock Island, Hogfish Bar & is a delicious blend of sweet and Grill is a proudly ramshackle water- tart goodness nestled in a thick ing hole adjoining an authentic “old graham cracker crust. The milk- style” marina. shake-like Key lime freeze is equally The undisputed menu star is the famous. “killer” hogfish sandwich, 8 ounces Named for the mother of original of fresh hogfish breaded and lightly owner Jeff MacFarland in honor of fried, topped with sautéed mush- her recipes, Mrs. Mac’s was pur- rooms and onions, melted Swiss chased in 1987 by sisters Angela cheese, lettuce and tomato. It’s and Paula Wittke whose motto is served on fresh Cuban bread with “Eat Well, Laugh Often, Live Long.” tartar sauce and accompanied by The BLT Benedict is what’s for breakfast at Blue Heaven in Key West. — Julie Botteri Key Largo’s Mrs. Mac’s Kitchen features a Key lime freeze shake.

10 fla-keys.com • fla-keys.co.uk • fla-keys.it • fla-keys.de • fla-keys.ie • fla-keys.fr • fla-keys.nl • fla-keys.be • fla-keys.cn Keys Traveler Keys Traveler fla-keys.com • fla-keys.co.uk • fla-keys.it • fla-keys.de • fla-keys.ie • fla-keys.fr • fla-keys.nl • fla-keys.be • fla-keys.cn 11 A small fishing boat passes under the Lignumvitae Bridge in Islamorada.

Simply the Keys

By Carol Shaughnessy • Photograph by Andy Newman

n today’s hyper-connected, stress-filled, hurry-up world, the best vacation — like the best life — is all about Isimplicity. migrating birds from warblers to tidal waders. Marvel of opportunities for hands-on adventures and in-the- It’s about savoring the taste of fresh, perfectly grilled at an artist’s skill as you watch a painted vision take moment enjoyment. local fish. Catching your breath in delight at a blazing red shape at a studio gallery in Key West or Islamorada. You can add meaning to your getaway by volun- and purple sunset. Feeling the cool kiss of saltwater as Or learn the true meaning of the word “awesome” teering to help with coral restoration on the world’s you slip into the blue Atlantic. Sharing moments you’ll when you first glimpse the indescribable color and third-largest coral barrier reef, which parallels the remember forever with people you love. life of Key Largo’s underwater realm. island chain, with marine scientists from Key Largo’s In fact, it’s all about the simple pleasures and uncon- What do these Keys experiences have in common? acclaimed Coral Restoration Foundation. trived experiences you’ll find in the Florida Keys. They’re real. Honest. Memory-making. And whether All the waters in the region are protected by the For example, you can glide though the Lower Keys’ you share them with family, friends or a significant federally designated Florida Keys National Marine shade-dappled shallows in a kayak, exploring primeval- other, they offer a chance to recharge your batter- Sanctuary act. looking mangrove forests in a stillness so profound that ies, reset your priorities and reawaken your sense of Discover the thrill of deep-sea fishing on a shared civilization seems light-years away. wonder. excursion out of Robbie’s Marina in Islamorada — Wander the nature trails of Marathon’s 63-acre Crane In the Florida Keys, from the northernmost island of and celebrate your newfound angling skill by feasting Point through thatch palm and tropical hardwood Key Largo to the southernmost shores of Key West, on your fresher-than-fresh catch prepared by a local hammock, eagerly seeking sightings of resident and you’ll find a refusal to take life too seriously and a chef. Also at Robbie’s you can feed tarpon that will near-reverence for relaxation — as well as scores leap from the water to grab your dangling baitish.

12 fla-keys.com • fla-keys.co.uk • fla-keys.it • fla-keys.de • fla-keys.ie • fla-keys.fr • fla-keys.nl • fla-keys.be • fla-keys.cn Keys Traveler Keys Traveler fla-keys.com • fla-keys.co.uk • fla-keys.it • fla-keys.de • fla-keys.ie • fla-keys.fr • fla-keys.nl • fla-keys.be • fla-keys.cn 13 Street and into the waterfront Historic Seaport, past enticing BOB CARE galleries and boutiques, listening to the rhythms of reggae and island rock spilling out of the open doorways of bars and restaurants. Visit the Civil War–era West Martello Tower, home of the Key West Garden Club, to discover beautiful indigenous plants, rare palms and a peace garden backed by the weathered fort and wide sweep of the Atlantic. Or immerse yourself in childlike fun by sharing a sand-sculpture workshop on the beach at the Casa Marina Resort. Guided by a pro from Sand-Isle Professional Sand

Sculpting, plunge your hands into ANDY NEWMAN (2) wet sand, unleash your imagination and rediscover the joys of pure, Visiting Boy Scouts and staff from unfettered creativity. Sharon Freed feeds a Marathon’s Turtle Hospital release tarpon at Robbie’s Marina “Bubbles” the loggerhead sea turtle No matter where you travel in the in Islamorada. at Sombrero Beach. A Coral Restoration Foundation Florida Keys, or what experiences diver transports infant corals to you embrace, let your surroundings a reef off Key Largo. remind you to relax, slow your pace, and savor the things that Bond with sea turtles at across your sun-warmed face, and matter most with the people who Marathon’s Turtle Hospital, gaze at the Old Bahia Honda Bridge a grassroots facility where a rising stoically against a cloudless matter most. passionate staff has nurtured and sky. Because all you need for the rehabilitated more than 1,500 ailing In Key West you’ll find much to “vacation of your life” is simple sea turtles. Take a guided behind- engage your senses and feed your …simply the Keys. the-scenes tour of this one-of-a-kind spirit. Stroll down famed Duval fla-keys.com hospital and meet the resident “patients.” If you’re lucky, you might be able to witness a turtle being released back into the wild — an unforgettable and surprisingly emotional occurrence. No trip to the Keys is complete without a stop at the Lower Keys’ Bahia Honda State Park. Its beach area, repeatedly named one of the top in the U.S., is a perfect spot to achieve soul-deep serenity. Bahia Honda State Park in the Lower

Laze in pristine blue- Keys features one of America’s top ROB O’NEAL green water, feeling beaches and a historic trestle bridge ROB O’NEAL constructed more than 100 years ago a whisper of breeze Visitors stroll past the SoDu Gallery on in Key West. for the Florida Keys Over-Sea Railroad.

14 fla-keys.com • fla-keys.co.uk • fla-keys.it • fla-keys.de • fla-keys.ie • fla-keys.fr • fla-keys.nl • fla-keys.be • fla-keys.cn Keys Traveler Keys Traveler fla-keys.com • fla-keys.co.uk • fla-keys.it • fla-keys.de • fla-keys.ie • fla-keys.fr • fla-keys.nl • fla-keys.be • fla-keys.cn 15 STEPHEN FRINK ANDY NEWMAN (2) A diver explores the Thunderbolt off Marathon.

Randy Towe wraps a guide on one of his custom rods. Islamorada captain makes rod-building an art hen Randy Towe was 10 His brand, Captain Randy Towe’s dolphin fish on his 34-foot Pursuit. years old he asked his Signature Series Handmade Rods, Towe’s rods cost anywhere from Wmother to buy him a $200 has become well known to dedi- $300 to $1,400 apiece, but are custom fishing rod. cated anglers. crafted to last a lifetime. His mother didn’t agree with the “I make everything from fly to “There is nothing I build that I investment, so he convinced her heavy offshore trolling rods,” Towe don’t test,” Towe said. “And I have Queen of Marathon shipwrecks to spend considerably less. The said. “I build exactly what customers the testing grounds of the Florida he waters off Marathon are home to the queen of approximately 80 feet and an observation deck at 75 young fishing fanatic then pur- want, how they want it to feel and Keys in my own backyard.” the Marathon wreck fleet, Thunderbolt, a 189-foot feet. Aft, at 120 feet, the rudder and propellers com- chased parts and built his own rod. what they want to do with it.” Many of Towe’s customers come Tcable layer that served as a research vessel to plement the stern section that was cut away to expose Now more than 40 years later, Towe said his rods are all about to him because they are very seri- explore the electrical energy of lightning strikes. the engine room and the interior of the hull. Towe not only continues to build fit, finish and top-quality parts. ous anglers — some even focused The local dive community acquired Thunderbolt, origi- Thunderbolt’s superstructure is coated with colorful rods for himself, he also crafts When someone purchases a on breaking world records — and nally named Major General Wallace F. Randolph, and sponges, corals and hydroids, providing refuge and them for others — all from his Towe-built rod, he can rest assured the rods become highly prized pos- sank it intentionally as a dive attraction in March 1986. sustenance to jacks, cobia, tarpon and deep-water store in the Florida Keys. that the entire package has been sessions. It lies in approximately 120 feet of water 6.5 miles pelagic creatures. Infatuated with sport fishing, assembled by just one person: “I had to testify in court when a south of Duck Key Channel in the Florida Keys National Uniquely, divers can see this upright wreck in its Towe moved to Islamorada at age Captain Randy Towe. couple got divorced,” Towe re- Marine Sanctuary. entirety during one dive, providing advanced divers as 19. He mated on an offshore char- Towe not only builds rods alone, called. “They were arguing over a The vessel was launched June 2, 1942, as one of well as spear fishermen an interesting deep site. ter boat and earned enough money he also prefers to fish customers in set of fly rods and reels. 16 sister ships built as mine planters to guard coastal Large angelfish patrol its decks and barracuda stand to pay his $250-per-month rent and the same manner — whether it’s in “She got them,” he remembered, minefields for the U.S. Army. The Randolph’s duties watch in the wheelhouse, an easy and intriguing swim- cover his living expenses. the backcounty for tarpon, bonefish “and she had me take his name off were transferred to the Navy, yet it was never commis- through. In 1983, he secured his U.S. and snook on his 18-foot Action of them.” sioned and remained idle in a Naval Reserve fleet. Goliath grouper — one reportedly near 800 pounds Coast Guard captain’s license and Craft skiff or offshore for yellowtail — Andy Newman In later years, Florida Power and Light Co. used the — hang around the engine room. Amberjack, hogfish, began taking customers out in the snapper, sailfish, blackfin tuna or CaptainRandyTowe.com renamed Thunderbolt as a cable layer for researching black grouper and the occasional reef shark reside backcountry. He was making $350 electrical energy and lightning strikes, and eventually near the rudder and propellers. per trip and “living the dream.” donated the vessel to the Florida Keys Artificial Reef Thunderbolt is part of the Florida Keys Wreck Trek But that didn’t seem to keep him Association. program, which rewards advanced- and wreck-certified busy enough, so he rented a small An easily navigable and appealing wreck, the “T-bolt” divers who complete a series of shipwreck dives with a business space and started a rod- was stripped of all but a few pieces of equipment personalized print of Florida Keys shipwrecks. building business just because it before being sunk. Its most prominent features are — Julie Botteri offered him a “therapeutic opportu- a cable-handling reel centered on the forecastle at fla-keys.com/diving nity to take a break from fishing.”

16 fla-keys.com • fla-keys.co.uk • fla-keys.it • fla-keys.de • fla-keys.ie • fla-keys.fr • fla-keys.nl • fla-keys.be • fla-keys.cn Keys Traveler Keys Traveler fla-keys.com • fla-keys.co.uk • fla-keys.it • fla-keys.de • fla-keys.ie • fla-keys.fr • fla-keys.nl • fla-keys.be • fla-keys.cn 17 ROB O’NEAL ANDY NEWMAN (3)

Spectators at Sloppy Joe’s Bar use their mobile devices to record Gerrit Marshall’s efforts to convince judges to choose him as the ‘Papa’ Hemingway Look-Alike Contest winner.

coveted title of “Papa,” the com- winners and aspiring look-alikes. attending Florida Keys Community petition offers contenders the Members make charitable and College. opportunity to connect with others media appearances, act as informal Like Hemingway Days, Sloppy who appreciate Hemingway’s liter- ambassadors for Hemingway Days Joe’s Look-Alike Contest began as ary achievements and exuberant and Key West, and do substantial a salute to Ernest Hemingway on lifestyle. Over the years, longtime fundraising for their scholarship the island he called home. Once contestants and previous winners program for Florida Keys students. affectionately dubbed “a beauty 2016 ‘Papa’ Hemingway Look-Alike winner David Hemingway is congratulated by Charlie Boice, left, and Wally Collins. have developed a camaraderie The scholarship fund was started contest for chubby old men with reminiscent of the author’s friend- in 2000 and chaired by 1984 look- gray beards,” its dedicated partici- The importance of being Ernest ship with his so-called “mob” of alike winner Bill Young, who met pants have made it so much more. literary and local cohorts. Hemingway during a 1956 visit to — Carol Shaughnessy t helps to have a ruddy complex- attribute that increases a man’s Joe’s annual “Papa” Hemingway In 1997, the Hemingway Look- Zaragoza, Spain. Now ably guided sloppyjoes.com ion, a beard, a stocky build and a resemblance to Nobel Prize–win- Look-Alike Contest. Alike Society was formed to formal- by 1986 winner Fred Johnson, it papalookalikes.com Iwell-worn safari outfit or a good ning author Ernest Hemingway One of the most colorful events of ize the bearded brotherhood. The has awarded more than $150,000 hemingwaydays.net fisherman’s sweater. In fact, any is a distinct advantage in Sloppy Key West’s yearly Hemingway Days society welcomes both previous to writing and nursing students

ANDY NEWMAN celebration, the Look-Alike Contest attracts entrants from all over the — and international countries that have included Kazakh- stan, Brazil, Ireland and Hungary. The competition is so popular that it draws more than 125 hopefuls to Key West each July. Many are repeat contenders who bring along enthusi- astic cheering sections. The event takes place at Sloppy Joe’s Bar, an iconic watering hole where Ernest Hemingway often enjoyed cocktails when he lived in 1930s Key West. Its two preliminary rounds and finals are judged by previ- “Papa” Hemingway Look-Alikes ride fake bulls during the Running of the ous look-alike winners. Bulls, an offbeat event during Key Charlie Boice won As well as a chance to earn the West’s Hemingway Days festival. the 2015 contest. Frank Kramer implores the judges to choose him to win .

18 fla-keys.com • fla-keys.co.uk • fla-keys.it • fla-keys.de • fla-keys.ie • fla-keys.fr • fla-keys.nl • fla-keys.be • fla-keys.cn Keys Traveler Keys Traveler fla-keys.com • fla-keys.co.uk • fla-keys.it • fla-keys.de • fla-keys.ie • fla-keys.fr • fla-keys.nl • fla-keys.be • fla-keys.cn 19 WILLIAM RESPESS/SKYDIVE KW Keys offer adventures and events for women housands of singles, couples and groups of Skydive over women flock to Key West each September the Lower Keys Tfor the annual Womenfest celebration. The popular festival for lesbians and their friends typi- magine jumping from an air- cally features activities that range from watersports plane after a nearly 20-minute excursions and flag football to high-energy late-night Iscenic climb to an altitude of parties, live music and comedy performances. 10,000 feet. Falling at a speed Many of the attractions that make Womenfest so of 120 mph, it typically takes popular also can be found year-round in Key West, under 10 minutes to reach the an enclave of friendly openness that has become an internationally acclaimed LGBT vacation destination. ground from nearly 2 miles Women can choose activities such as snorkeling above the Florida Keys island or scuba diving on the continental United States’ chain, Gulf of Mexico and Atlan- only living coral barrier reef, browsing galleries tic Ocean. filled with local art, lazing on Atlantic Ocean beach- Sound like a bucket list “to-do” es, seeking dolphins in the wild, sipping pre-dinner item? cocktails at a romantic waterfront eatery or chilling Thrill seekers at Skydive Key at a club on Key West’s famed Duval Street. West have mastered the skills Skydive instructor William Respess freefalls with a student over the Lower Keys. Like lesbian poet Elizabeth Bishop, who lived and safety for Keys visitors to Once tandem jumpers leave p.m. Two visitors can jump at on the island from the late 1930s through 1946, take to the skies and enjoy the the airplane, an exhilarating the same time, and arrange- women can find comfortable lodgings with an rush of skydiving in one of the 40-second freefall is followed by ments can be made for larger easygoing atmosphere. Notable choices include Alexander’s Guesthouse, an adult-only property for most scenic places in the world. a breathtaking, quiet and serene groups. LGBT guests and their friends, and the island-chic Certified tandem instructors em- ride after the parachute opens. Family and friends can even Silver Palms Inn. ploy rectangular, aerodynamic Located near mile marker 17 watch you land. Women who want to immerse themselves in parachutes for easy maneuver- on Sugarloaf Key, Skydive Key — Julie Botteri intentional cooperative living can arrange to stay in ability and “tiptoe soft” landings. West is open daily 9 a.m. to 5 skydivekeywest.com camping or cottage accommodations at Sugarloaf Women’s Village in the Lower Keys. The unique lesbian community is dedicated to peace, equality Tour explores Key West’s past and enhancing women’s lives. ith the largest predominantly wooden historic district in the — Carol Shaughnessy womenfest.com United States, including some 3,000 structures, Key West is sugarloafwomensvillage.com Scuba diving on continental America’s only living coral barrier a magnet for lovers of history and Victorian architecture. reef is one of many popular water-based activities in the Keys. W fla-keys.com/gay Visitors can explore both via free self-guided Key West Historic Marker tours, discovering the island’s multifaceted heritage and restored gems that range from cigar-makers’ cottages to two-story New dance club enhances Key West nightlife homes adorned with lace-like “gingerbread” trim on balconies and ey West’s Duval Street is renowned for vibrant and “Reality is a Drag” shows by the talented Aqua- eaves. nightlife options that include everything from nettes drag troupe. Guided by a cell phone audio tour or website download, sightseers Kcigar bars to drag shows. According to Sidebar owner Kimball can view 120 sites and properties selected by local historian Bruce With the opening of the Sidebar Ingram, the mix of music ranges from Neff. Each one bears a Key West Historic Marker plaque that high- at the popular Aqua Nightclub, an house tunes to disco and ‘80s and upscale all-welcome dance club ‘90s dance music — plus whatever lights its place in the island’s past. joins the offerings. patrons request from cooperative Selected sites memorialize aspects of Key West’s colorful history The Sidebar is designed as DJs. Special events and entertain- including the cigar industry, literary community, Cuban heritage, a “casual urban” space with a ment are planned, and local sensa- churches and early shipwreck salvage. distinctive iron chandelier and tion Vogue is to host an “after-tea” Sites range from former cigar factories and Civil War–era forts to comfortable seating. It’s open for The Sidebar is a new dance club. event each Sunday. Key West’s Oldest House and the southernmost house in the conti- relaxed libations and conversation during the day and The Sidebar accommodates about 75 people and nental United States.

evening — patrons can even order artisan pizza from can be combined with Aqua’s open-air Back Bar and TOURS MRKER WEST HISTORIC KEY Visitors can access the tour at 305-507-0300 or find it on the a neighborhood emporium — and at night it morphs new event space for gatherings such as bachelorette organization’s website. into a dynamic hotspot for drinks and dancing. parties and post-wedding celebrations. Catering is The Oldest House is one of 120 sites — Carol Shaughnessy Located at 504 Angela St. just off Duval, the Side- available. — Carol Shaughnessy and properties on self-guided Key West keywesthistoricmarkertour.org bar complements Aqua’s inviting setting for cocktails sidebarkeywest.com Historic Marker tours.

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Brad Mullis pours lager at Keys breweries craft popular products Florida Keys Brewing Company.

The Florida Keys Brewing Company creates a variety of different beers at their location in Islamorada’s Arts District. ROB O’NEAL Islamorada Beer Co.’s ans of fine beers, microbrews 201 William St. in Key West’s dinners to the oceanfront Signature Stephanie Harper and ales can enjoy unique Historic Seaport, award-winning Tasting Festival. tends to her brew. Fofferings crafted in the Florida Key Lime Witness and Crazy Lady Beer selections generally include Keys island chain. honey blonde ale are among Florida the uniquely named Andygator by The Upper Keys’ Florida Keys drafts. The nautical-themed space Abita, Harpoon Leviathan IPA, Dog- Brewing Company brews on-site features a main bar, restaurant, fish Head Craft Brewed Ales and and distributes only to popular game room and bar in the brewery local offerings from popular Florida Keys watering holes. The taproom and tasting room, and an upstairs Keys breweries. at 200 Morada Way is open 1-9 deck. The emporium is open daily A highlight event is the The Brew- p.m. daily. Taste flights of sea- from 11 a.m. to late night. Fest Signature Tasting Festival typi- sonal light, amber and brown beers Bone Island Brewing, at 1111 cally held on a Saturday afternoon. including FlaKeys, a Belgian-style Eaton St., serves craft beers rang- In early January, fans of fine beer made with Key limes, and ing from pale ales to Irish stouts beers and ales can savor them at and specialty beers are available Hogfish, which has a note of local — sold only on-site. Visitors can the annual weekend Brew on the for an unlimited tasting along citrus flavors. enjoy tours of the nanobrewery and Bay outdoor event, Key Largo’s the waterfront. Other attractions Islamorada Beer Company, lo- tastings, including flights of Bone only craft beer festival, at the wa- include local seafood and specialty cated at 82229 Overseas Highway, Island’s own handcrafted flavors terside Rowell’s Marina property. vendors as well as games, raffle serves island-style craft brews that such as Pale Ale. Friday evening usually kicks off drawings and live bands that round exude the Keys’ weekend lifestyle And quality beer is so revered the weekend extravaganza with a out the afternoon’s festivities. of wading in the water with a cold in the Keys that it inspires annual home brew competition. Beer craft- one, such as in-brewery-only beers brew festivals. ers can compete for the best in — Julie Botteri like Tourist Season and Trust Me During Labor Day weekend in four categories from light and easy floridakeysbrewingco.com I’m A Local. The tasting room is early September, Key West Brew- lagers and cream ales to big and islamoradabeerco.com open Monday through Saturday Fest features nearly 200 beers and bold and all things happy. thewaterfrontbrewery.com from noon to 9 p.m. and Sundays ales including unique microbrews. The festival’s main event occurs boneislandbrewing.com from noon to 6 p.m. They are showcased at events Saturday afternoon. More than keywestbrewfest.com At The Waterfront Brewery, ranging from mouthwatering beer 100 regional and worldwide craft keylargobrewonthebay.com Brewmaster Justin Stine taps honey blonde ale at The Waterfront Brewery.

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Shark Point Pa-hay-Okee Overlook To Florida Turnpike Card Sisal Pond Sound to Oyster Bay Mahogany Ocean Hammock Reef Club Island 1 Sweet Bay Pond 905 Florida Keys Traveling Tips National National Marine Sanctuary North West Cape Park Cape Dagney Johnson Sable Largo Hammock Crocodile Lake Botanical State Park National Wildlife Nine Mile Refuge Pond Hawk Channel to the Florida Keys Long Barnes Carysfort MILE Sound Point Mary Sound 110 Reef Cross Key 905 Alligator Trout Cove Seven Palm Lake Bay Davis Shell Key Key Largo Middle Cape Cove Canal Long Madeira Key Middle Lake Bay Blackwater Bear Garfield Monroe Lake Sound Eagle Key North Dry Rocks Lake 9336 Bight Elbow Reef Madeira MILE Snake Bight Porpoise Rankin Santini Terrapin City of Washington Wreck Middle Cape Lake Point Bay 105 Ingraham Bight Bight Bay Shark Terrapin Boggy Key Dry Rocks Flamingo Crocodile Madeira Point Mosquito Point Largo “” Joe Kemp Umbrella Point Point Point Key Big Key Sound East Cape Bradley Key Rankin Key Canal Key Samphire Buttonwood Grecian East Cape Keys Sound Rocks Newport MILE John Pennekamp 100 Coral Reef State Park Spiegel Grove Benwood Wreck MILE Wreck 95 White Banks Cottrell Rodriguez Key East Key 1 Key Marquesas Tavernier Molasses Hospital Middle Keys Reef Key Key Barracuda MILE Key 90 Pickles Archer Mule Bibb Key Islamorada Key Bay Windley Key Plantation Wreck

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National Wildlife Refuge MILE Grassy Key 60 Straits of Florida Gulf of Mexico Long Point Tennessee Key Duck Key Reef Florida Keys Big Torch Marathon Big Pine MILE Key Airport 55 Hammock Great White Heron State Park East Turtle Deer Key Shoal Two Humps National Knight’s MILE National Wildlife Refuge Pigeon 50 Vaca Key Key Key Key 1 Middle Old Seven Refuge MILE Torch No Name Mile Bridge West Turtle MILE 45 Shoal Sugarloaf Key Key Key 40 The Cudjoe Key MILE Seven Snake Little 30 Coffins MILE Mile Patch 20 MILE Torch Saddlebunch 25 Coupon MILE 1 Bridge 1 Key Bight 35 Bahia Delta Shoal Herman’s Summerland Ramrod Hole Alexander’s Wreck Keys MILE Key 15 Key Newfound Honda East Thunderbolt Harbor Keys Washerwoman Sombrero Wreck Lower Hawk Channel Samantha’s Atlantic Ocean Big Coppitt State Park Reef West Sugarloaf Key Key Key Flagler’s Barge MILE American Key West Golf 10 Newfound Harbor Seven Mile Bridge Wreck Fleming Dredger’s Course and CC Shoal Coral Heads Key Key 1 Artificial Reef MILE 5 Maryland U.S. Naval Geiger Big Pine Stock Shoals Adolphus MILE Air Station Key Looe Key Shoals 0 Island Busch Sr. Florida Keys Wreck Reef Preserve National Key West SOUTHERNMOST Intl. Airport POINT fla-keys.com Marine Sanctuary KEY WEST, FL Western Eastern Pelican Straits of Florida Sambos Shoal Eastern Sambos Dry Rocks Joe’s Tug Sand Rock Key Key Western Cayman Vandenberg Dry Rocks Salvor Wreck Wreck

The 125-mile-long Florida Keys island Driving Data to Keys/Key Largo Weather/Climate chain is linked to mainland Florida by U.S. FROM MILES KM HOURS Wherever you are right now, chances are Highway 1, the Overseas Highway. Visitors Miami 50 80 1 the weather is better in the Florida Keys. can fly into Miami International Airport (MIA) Fort Myers 200 320 4 That’s true even on a summer day. The or Fort Lauderdale-Hollywood International Tampa 300 480 6 Orlando 280 450 5.25 hottest it’s ever been in Key West is 97° F Airport (FLL) and from there can reach (36° C), and that was in 1880. At the the Keys by airport shuttle bus or rental Distance from Miami peak of summer, the average high air car. Travelers can reach Key Largo, the REGION MILES KM MILE MARKER temperature is about 89° F (32° C). The gateway to the Keys, in about an hour from Key Largo 50 80 107–90 Keys are devoid of superhighways or Islamorada 76 122 89–66 Miami or an hour and 45 minutes from Fort urban sprawl to absorb and radiate the Lauderdale. Marathon 111 178 65–45 Lower Keys 128 205 45–4 sun’s heat. And the subtropical islands are Air Service to the Florida Keys Key West 159 254 4–0 cooled by sea breezes. In the winter, the Keys are typically the For an up-to-date roster of commercial Via Bus warmest region in the continental U.S. airlines and on-demand charter operators Bus/shuttle connections from MIA and There has never been a frost in Key West, serving Key West International and Florida FLL to the Florida Keys allow traveling to the according to the U.S. Weather Service. Keys Marathon International Airports, go Keys without renting a car. Below are the average monthly air to fla-keys.com/gettinghere/#air. Via Boat temperatures for the past 30 years, Driving Directions Ferry connections from Fort Myers or according to the Key West weather office. Temperatures in blue shades are Fahrenheit From Miami International Airport (MIA), Marco Island to Key West are offered and those in light red are Celsius. take LeJeune Road south to 836 West. via the Key West Express. Voyages take Take the Florida Turnpike south toward Key approximately 3.5 hours. West. Extensive details on getting to the Florida The Turnpike ends at U.S. 1 in Florida City. Keys & Key West are available at: Follow U.S. 1 south about 22 miles to fla-keys.com/gettinghere.cfm Key Largo and you are now in the Florida Keys. From Fort Lauderdale-Hollywood Inter- national Airport (FLL), exit and follow the signs for I–595 West. Take 595 to the Florida Turnpike and follow the signs Help and More Information for the Florida Keys. If you’re traveling in the Keys and From farther north, take the Florida need any help, call the toll-free Visitors’ Turnpike south to just below Fort Assistance line at 1-800-771-KEYS. It’s Lauderdale, where Exit 4 joins the southern staffed 24 hours a day. To contact visitor portion of the Turnpike that ends at U.S. 1 offices in the Keys, call 1-800-FLA-KEYS. in Florida City. Follow U.S. 1 south into the The Keys website at fla-keys.com has a Keys. fla-keys.com live chat feature with visitor information From Florida’s west coast, take I–75 fla-keys.co.uk specialists available during regular U.S. (Alligator Alley) east to the Miami exit, and weekday business hours to aid travelers in south to the Turnpike Extension. vacation planning.