South-Western Lambert’s Bay 1 Cape South- 1 2 Tankwa There are not a lot of on the main 2 Text by Peter Ryan National Park 3 table of Table Mountain, but keep an 3 4 eye out for Peregrine Falcon, Orange- 4 5 ith its famous beaches, breasted Sunbird and Cape Siskin. An 5 6 Wspectacular scenery, early-morning stroll across to Maclear’s 6 7 wine routes and a host of other SOUTH-WESTERN CAPE Beacon might produce Grey-wing 7 8 attractions, the Western Cape is one of Francolin. If you’re forced to queue to go 8 9 ’s top tourist destinations. But if up the cable car, kill some time by look- 9 10 you choose to visit the Cape, don’t leave your ing for Cape Sugarbird in the tall proteas 10 11 binoculars at home – there are also plenty of below the lower cable station. The more 11 12 good birding opportunities. energetic can walk down Smuts’s Track 12 13 Just beware the infamous traf- West Coast from Maclear’s Beacon; listen for Striped 13 14 fic, which can be horrendous in peak holi- National Park Flufftail on the right of the path below 14 15 day season. In general, it’s important to be the aqueduct en route to Skeleton Gorge. 15

16 out early, not only for the birds, but also to 16 17 avoid the crowds. Worcester Kirstenbosch 17 18 The botanic gardens are well worth a visit 18 19 The Robertson by the whole family. From a perspec- 19 20 Most visitors to the Cape spend a consider- CAPE tive, there are very tame Cape Francolins 20 21 able amount of time in Cape Town itself. Table Mountain Rondevlei on the lawns and Cape Sugarbirds in the 21 Kirstenbosch 22 With a vibrant beach culture, plus the protea section, but the best birding is 22 Wildevoëlvlei Strandfontein Sewage Works PETER STEYN 23 Waterfront, Table Mountain, Robben found higher up in the unplanted sec- 23 Sir Lowry’s Pass 24 Island and , there’s plenty to Simon’s Town tion of the gardens. The Afromontane 24 Boulders R44 De Hoop 25 interest the general tourist. Fortunately R44 forest patches support Cape Batis, Dusky quents dense tangles in gulleys. It’s best forest are one of the better sites, together 25 Cape Point Betty’s Bay Nature Reserve 26 the Cape Peninsula also offers great value Rooiels and Paradise flycatchers, Forest Canary located by its song, and is easiest to see with Tokai forest further south, for the 26 27 for birders too. By rising early you can grab De Mond and Rameron Pigeon, while Cinnamon high up in Skeleton Gorge, where the veg- small introduced population of Chaffinch 27 28 a handful of lifers and still be on Clifton Dove is scarce on the forest floor. Keep an etation is less dense. If you fail here, the (the birds are generally located by their 28 29 Beach with the family by 10 o’clock. And eye out overhead for a variety of raptors, also can be found by following song or ‘chink’ call from high in a pine 29 30 if you get bored with the birds on the including the local Red-breasted the so-called Contour Path from tree). Kirstenbosch charges an entrance 30 31 beach, you can always scope the Bank Sparrowhawk. But the real attraction is Kirstenbosch into . The fee (R10 for adults), but access to other 31 32 Cormorant colony at .  the skulking , which fre- pine plantations in the lower areas of this forests on the mountain is free.  32 33 33 34 34 35 35 36 36 37 37 38 38 39 39 40 40 41 41 42 42 43 43 44 44 45 45 46 46 47 47 48 48 49 49 50 50 51 51 52 52 53 53 54 54 55 55 56 56 57 57 58 58 59 59 60 60 61 61 PETER STEYN firefly images/GEOFF McILLERON ALBERT FRONEMAN 62 Kirstenbosch Orange-breasted Sunbird Cape Sugarbird 62 63

54 SUMMER birding africa – birds & birding 1998 – volume 3, number 6 SUMMER birding 55 

 1 South-Western Cape South-Western Cape 1 2 2 3 Strandfontein and advantage of having a greater diversity of 3 4 Rondevlei habitats and many more birds, including 4 5 Both these sites on the southern Cape the third ‘missing’ endemic, the 5 6 Flats offer a wide range of waterbirds. Protea Canary, although this is scarce. 6 7 Strandfontein is a series of sewage settle- 7 8 ment ponds on the northern shore of Betty’s Bay and Rooiels 8 9 . It’s a good place to take people These sites offer similar fynbos birds to 9 10 with a passing interest in birds, in part Sir Lowry’s Pass and . Rock­ 10 11 because you can birdwatch from the com- jumpers descend to sea level immediately 11 12 fort of your car. Entrance is from the south south of Rooiels. The Harold Porter 12 13 end of , off Strandfontein Road, Botanic Garden in Betty’s Bay has forest 13 14 and requires a waiver issued by the Cape such as Olive Woodpecker and 14 15 Bird Club (tel. 021-686-8795) on behalf of Blue-mantled Flycatcher as well as fyn-­ 15 16 the Cape Metropolitan Council. bos birds. Jackass Penguins and Bank, 16 17 Rondevlei is a nature reserve on the Crowned and White-breasted cormorants 17 18 northern border of Strandfontein, and breed at Stony Point, Betty’s Bay. 18 19 has a number of tranquil bird hides 19 20 which are good for spotting Little Bittern. West Coast National Park 20 21 Access is signposted from Victoria Road Lagoon hosts the largest num- 21 22 off the near Retreat; entrance is R3, ber of migrant shorebirds in South Africa, 22 23 and the reserve is open from 08h00 to many of which can be studied at leisure 23 brendan ryan peter steyn 24 17h00. Chukar Partridge Victorin’s Warbler from the excellent hides. Key species 24 25 include Red Knot, Bar-tailed Godwit, Terek 25 26 Boulders, Cape Point Kommetjie, on the west coast of the Robben Island to get on the first ferry in the morning Paarl Bird Sanctuary Sandpiper, Greater Sandplover (on the 26 27 and Kommetjie Peninsula, is a good spot to get to know This is a must for the serious southern (08h00). The partridge is fairly common Situated at the municipal sewage works western shore) and perhaps rarities such 27 28 These sites are deceptively far from cen- the four marine cormorants. Famous for African lister, because the only ‘tickable’ in dense scrub and can be found around in the Boland town of Paarl, the san­c­ as Redshank and Mongolian Plover. 28 29 tral Cape Town, so unless you’re staying its large population of Antarctic Terns Chukar Partridge and Peacock are found the Jackass Penguin colony north of the tuary offers similar birds to those Seeberg (on the eastern shore) is best vis- 29 30 in the southern suburbs, it’s worth taking in winter (chiefly May–October), it also here. Access to the island is fairly harbour. The Peacock is more elusive, which are found at Strandfontein and ited around high tide, whereas the main 30 31 a full day if you plan to visit all three. supports an interesting selection of straightforward on one of the Robben and is best searched for among the Rondevlei (see Africa – Birds & Birding 1(5): hide at Geelbek (at the southern end of 31 32 Boulders, south of Simon’s Town, is right- northern hemisphere birds in summer. Island ferries from the Waterfront (R100 houses south of the harbour. The island 60–63). The reserve is open from 07h00 the lagoon) works best at mid-tides. At 32 33 ly famous for its Jackass Penguin colony, Walk around the point from the boat- for adults, including an island tour, but also hosts large breeding colonies of to 18h00 daily, and access is from very high tide, the smaller hides on the 33 34 and is a must to visit – but go early. The launching ramp. you are unlikely to see many birds on cormorants, herons, egrets and gulls. Drommedaris Street, with signposts to salt-marsh west of Geelbek are best, and 34 35 main beach is sheltered from the south- Nearby Wildevoëlvlei, on the left of the prison tours). Tel. 021-419-1300 to The ferry trip across may pro- the sanctuary from the Wellington/ this is the only place where Chestnut- 35 36 easter, and offers the unique opportunity the road to Fish Hoek, can have interest- find out about the availability of spe- duce Sabine’s Gulls and Arctic Skuas in Wemmershoek exit on the N1. banded Plovers are common. Black and 36 37 to swim with penguins. If you’re tired of ing waterbirds. cific bird-watching tours, and try  summer, as well as the odd Sooty African Marsh harriers are frequent over 37 38 driving, take the southern suburbs train Shearwater, White-chinned Petrel or Sir Lowry’s Pass & Helderberg the marshes, and African Rails often feed 38 39 to Simon’s Town and then walk or take an giant petrel. Three fynbos endemics are absent from along the marsh edge at Geelbek. The Park 39 40 open taxi to the colony. Entrance and the Cape Peninsula, but two of these can also supports a host of strandveld birds, 40 41 parking fees are charged (approximately Pelagic birding be fairly easily seen on the Hottentots including Karoo Lark, Cape Penduline Tit 41 42 R10 per person for adults); enter from the Arguably South Africa’s best seabirding Holland Mountains: Cape Rockjumper and White-backed Mousebird. Access is 42 43 Seaforth (north) end of the beach. is off Cape Town. Midsummer is not and Victorin’s Warbler. The rockjumper from the R27 or Langebaan village. 43 44 Cape Point is another popular site, so the best time, but you should still see occurs on rocky outcrops and boulder- 44 45 visit the Point itself as early as possible three species of albatross (Shy, Yellow- strewn slopes, and is common along Velddrif 45 46 (the reserve opens around sunrise). The nosed and Black-browed), as well as the mountain crest between the The estuary at 46 47 cliffs at the Point have breeding Cape and several shearwaters (such as Cory’s, viewsite at the summit of Sir Velddrif is another famous 47 48 White-breasted cormorants as well as a Manx and Sooty), and petrels and Lowry’s Pass and the cannons at shorebird site that has 48 49 pair of Peregrine Falcons. Cape Siskin is storm-petrels if you get out into deep the old pass. turned up numerous 49 50 common, and the Red-winged Starlings water (300 metres). The problem is to Victorin’s Warbler, probably the rarities  50 51 are positively cheeky. Strong onshore find a suitable boat. Anne Gray arrang- best-looking Bradypterus, is found in 51 52 winds produce good seabirds, but a ’scope es day-trips roughly once a month out taller fynbos in damp areas, and is best 52 53 is essential. The rest of the reserve has of Simon’s Town (approx. R280). For located by its song. Also found on the 53 54 some excellent walks in lovely vegetation. details fax 021-885-3959, e-mail gray- lower slopes are Hottentot Button­quail 54 55 Hottentot Buttonquail­ (probably a sepa- ad@.co.za and Striped Flufftail, although they are 55 56 rate species to the Black-rumped Button­ seldom seen. Other birds include Ground 56 57 quail found further north) have been seen Farther afield Woodpecker,­ rock thrushes and Cape 57 58 fairly regularly in areas of short restios, Away from Cape Town there’s an even Siskin. The Helderberg Nature Reserve, on 58 59 and there are also isolated populations broader array of birding sites, mostly the mountain slope north of Somerset 59 60 of Cloud Cisticolas and Clapper Larks. without the crowds. A plethora of B&Bs West, supports similar birds, although you 60 61 Olifantsbos is worth a look for shorebirds. and camping sites provide reasonable have a long climb to reach the elevations 61 peter steyn Hartlaub’s Gull 62 Entrance R10 (minimum R20 per vehicle). Cape Rockjumper accommodation. where rockjumpers occur. It has the albert froneman 62 63

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 1 South-Western Cape While in the area, visit Jakkalsriviervlei, Bontebok Park and the South-Western Cape 1 2 on the northern edge of town, for a vari- 2 3 over the years, including­ several firsts for ety of waterbirds and good strandveld The Bontebok National Park, south-east 3 4 the region. The best birding is on the salt- birding around the hide. The bay north of Swellendam, has a variety of open- 4 5 pans south of the river, where birds can be of the harbour is a good bet for the country birds including Stanley’s Bustard, 5 6 observed from your car (tel. 02288-31133 endemic Heaviside’s dolphin. Hottentot Buttonquail, Cloud Cisticola 6 7 for permission to drive around the pans). While in the area, check the rocky and Agulhas Long-billed Lark. Knysna 7 8 High tide is best, when birds aggregate on outcrops towards Clanwilliam for Woodpeckers occur in riparian wood- 8 9 the pans, but any time can be good. The Cinnamon-breasted Warbler and lands along the Breede River. Blue Cranes 9 10 mudflats on the north bank in front of other arid-country birds. Protea are common in the Overberg wheatfields, 10 11 the Riviera Hotel are best at mid-tide. The Canaries are most common in with Karoo Korhaans in the eastern part 11 12 strandveld around the river mouth sup- the dense vegetation along water- of the area. 12 13 ports similar species to those found in the courses in the arid mountain Accommodation is available in the 13 14 West Coast National Park. fynbos of the Cedarberg area. Park (book through SA National Parks; 14 15 tel. 012-343-1991 or 021-422-2810) and 15 16 Lambert’s Bay De Mond and De Hoop Cape Gannet the reserve is open from 07h00 to 16 17 Bird Island, which shelters the pictur- These reserves lie on the coast east of Albert froneman 19h00 in summer. Forest patches above 17 18 esque harbour at Lambert’s Bay, is one of Cape Agulhas. De Mond, 20 kilometres The De Hoop Vlei can Swellendam () and 18 19 only six Cape Gannet colonies in the south of , is a narrow dune be excellent for water- beyond (Grootvaders­bosch 19 20 world. It’s an amazing spectacle that strip which includes the mouth of the birds, and the surround- Nature Reserve) have a greater diversity of 20 21 enthrals not only birders, and is well Heuningnesrivier. This attracts a diversity ing milkwood thickets sup- forest birds than is found farther west. 21 22 worth a visit. The new visitors’ centre of shorebirds, but most people visit to port Southern Tchagra and Knysna Wood­ 22 23 allows you to observe the colony at close see the Damara Terns that feed and roost pecker. Potberg, in the eastern part of the Worcester–Robertson Valley 23 peter steyn 24 quarters and also teaches you about the in the estuary and breed in the dunes reserve, has the last Cape Vulture colony and Tankwa Karoo Blue Crane 24 25 birds’ biology. The island also supports east of . De Hoop, lying 40 kilo- in the Western Cape. Both reserves are Many of the Karoo specials can be found 25 26 three species of breeding cormorant and metres east of Bredasdorp, is a much administered by Cape Nature Conserva­ in these areas. Vrolijkheid Nature Reserve, Be on the look out for... 26 27 small numbers of Jackass Penguins. larger reserve with a variety of habitats. tion (tel. 021-483-4098).  between McGregor and Robertson, is a 27 Fynbos endemics cormorants, Cape Gannet, African Black 28 good site for Pale Chanting Goshawk, 28 Cape Sugarbird, Orange-breasted Sunbird, Oystercatcher, Hartlaub’s Gull, Damara Tern 29 29 Karoo Chat, Namaqua and Rufous- Cape Siskin, Cape Rockjumper, Hottentot 30 eared , Fairy Flycatcher and Locally-restricted 30 Buttonquail, Victorin’s Warbler, Protea Canary Chaffinch, Chukar Partridge, Peacock 31 Rock Pipit. There is good accom­moda­ 31 Regional endemics Other key species 32 tion in McGregor. Cape Francolin, Cape Bulbul, Cape and 32 33 The Tankwa Karoo, beyond Ceres on Black Harrier, Blue Crane, Knysna 33 Agulhas long-billed larks Woodpecker, Knysna Warbler, Southern 34 the road to Calvinia, offers these species 34 Benguela endemics Tchagra, plus shorebirds, pelagic seabirds 35 plus Karoo Eremomela, Spike-heeled Lark, Jackass Penguin, Bank, Crowned and Cape and Karoo endemics 35 36 Tractrac Chat and Cinnamon-breasted 36 37 Warbler. Ceres is the nearest accommoda- 37 38 tion, but you can camp at the Katbakkies 38 39 picnic site on the Op-die-Berg road, about 39 40 70 kilometres from Ceres. 40 41 41 42 42 Other resources 43 43 Wally Petersen and Mel Tripp’s excellent 44 44 Birds of the Southwestern Cape and Where 45 45 to Watch Them (Mondi Southern Birds 20) 46 46 gives checklists and site guides, including 47 47 user-friendly maps, for 40 top birding 48 sites (available from BirdLife South Africa, 48 49 the Cape Bird Club and the Kirstenbosch 49 50 bookshop). 50 51 The Cape Bird Club (tel. 021-686-8795) 51 52 offers advice on birding in the area, and 52 53 has regular outings and meetings. 53 54 54 55 55 56 Peter Ryan is a lecturer at the Percy FitzPatrick 56 57 Institute, . Aside 57 58 from running the MSc course in conservation 58 59 biology, he conducts research on lark system- 59 60 atics and seabird conservation. He is an avid 60 61 birder, who has travelled to all seven conti- 61 Albert froneman peter steyn 62 Cape Gannet colony, Lambert’s Bay nents in pursuit of birds.  Potberg Cape Vulture over De Hoop 62 63

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