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Greek Islands 9

Greek Islands 9

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 573

Behind the Scenes

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OUR READERS Alexis Averbuck Boundless gratitude to Alexandra Stamopou- Many thanks to the travellers who used the lou for her inspiration. She travels with me last edition and wrote to us with helpful everywhere. Ryan Ver Berkmoes was a peachy hints, useful advice and interesting road companion and an aces navigator on anecdotes: unmarked Cretan tracks. Thanks to Ramona Mauro Bisello, Marina Caputi, Huseyin Cetek, Daniela Ciscato, Gloria Rodríguez Gil, Michael for an insider’s take on . Big cheer for Hanna, Carola Kehrle, Cornelia Kerkhoff, Chris Korina, Kate and Richard, who contributed Knaggs, Julian Lord, Mimi Mengerink, Wynn so much to the chapter. Applause for Rees, Emmy Skensved, Sally Stevens, Murat Brana: conscientious, informed and compas- Ucar. sionate editor. Margarita, Kostas, Zisis, Anthy and Costas made home. Efharisto poli to those who welcomed me so warmly around AUTHOR THANKS Crete, the Saronic Gulf and Athens. Korina Miller Carolyn Bain An enormous thank you to Kirk and my mum Efharisto poli to Brana Vladisavljevic for a and dad for minding the fort while I was away wonderful gig, and to Team for sterling and making it possible for me to take this pro- work. Across the , hundreds of kind, ject on. Thank you to my fabulous daughters, generous locals (and visitors) answered my Monique and Simone, for letting me work and also encouraging me to take breaks. Thank you questions, engaged in conversation, fed me to Brana at LP for her support and to my co- (oh god, did they feed me!) and showed me authors for their insights and cameraderie. A the meaning of heartwarming Greek filoxenia. warm efharisto to all of the people I met on the Sincere thanks to all of them. Thanks to old road – both locals and travellers – who shared friends Fiona and William Reeve for fun on their stories, knowledge and enthusiasm for , and to my favourite co-traveller, Greece and were unwaveringly hospitable de- Kelvin Adams, for three weeks of ace company spite such difficult times. And thanks to Bing and dedicated research of beaches and blue the loyal coonhound for keeping me company domes. while I burned the midnight oil. 574 Michael Stamatios Clark Richard Waters Ευχαριστω to all who made my ferry-hopping Special thanks to Michael in and Leo- through the Greek islands a trip from the nidas at Pachis travel. Also to Lily Alicabiotis. start. Special thanks to my splendiferous There are many Greek people who made family, Janet, Melina and Alexandros, and to my journey easy at what were difficult times the editorial team of Brana Vladisavljevic and for them, so my thanks to all. Thanks too to

BEHIND THE SCENES THE BEHIND Korina Miller for cheerful support through- Korina Miller and Alexis Averbuck, my coordi- out. In the islands, many thanks to nating authors, for all their help and patience, Chrysanthi, Amanda, Heather, Pakis, Alexan- and to Brana Vladisavljevic, my destination dra, Georgos and Mahi, Makis, Bessie, Gisela; ed, for sending me out there. in the Aegean, thanks to Anastasia, Theofilos, the Fouskas family, Demetra and Vassilis, Naya and Petros, and Tasos, Margarita and ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Kostas. Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Greg Ward Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updat- ed World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Thanks to the many wonderful people who Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System make travelling in the such a Sciences, 11, 163–344.­ pleasure, and thanks above all to my wife, Illustrations pp64–5 and pp264–5 by Sam Cook, for sharing the fun. Javier Martinez Zarracina. Cover photograph: Oia, Santorini (Thira); AWL/Shaun Egan.

THIS BOOK Destination Editor Cover Researcher Brana Vladisavljevic Wendy Wright This 9th edition of Lonely Plan- Thanks to Brendan et’s Greek Islands guidebook Product Editors Dempsey, Ryan Evans, Andi was researched and written Elizabeth Jones, Kate Mathews Jones, Indra Kilfoyle, Claire by Korina Miller, Alexis Aver- Senior Cartographer Murphy, Claire Naylor, Karyn buck, Carolyn Bain, Michael Valentina Kremenchutskaya Noble, Kirsten Rawlings, Alison Stamatios Clark, Greg Ward Book Designer Ridgway, Diana Saengkham, and Richard Waters. This Michael Buick Dianne Schallmeiner, Ellie guidebook was produced by Assisting Editors Simpson, Angela Tinson, the following: Pete Cruttenden, Carly Hall, Lauren Wellicome, Amanda Victoria Harrison, Ross Taylor Williamson, Sofia Zournatzidi ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 575

Index

A Alinda 370-1 Archaeological Museum Archaeological Museum accommodation 18, 550-1, 460-5, 462 (Hania) 281 of Paleopoli 155 568, see also individual Alopronia 224-5 Archaeological Museum Archaeological Museum () 390, 393 of Pythagorio 403 locations 201-6, 201 Archaeological Museum Archaeology Museum Acropolis (Athens) 12, 63-9, 222-3 , () 208 () 232 66 12 Anavatos 411 activities 45-8, see also Archaeological Museum Folk Museum Collection Ancient Agora (Athens) 75, individual activities () 362 () 189 76, 76 Adamas 230-1 Archaeological Museum Heraklion Archaeological Ancient 175 Aegean, see northeastern () 333 Museum 257-9, 269 Ancient Eleusis 127 Archaeological Museum Ierapetra Archaeological Aegiali 204-5 151-5, 152 () 245 Museum 303 Archaeological Museum Marathon Archaeological 130-4, 130 Angistri 134 (Kefallonia) 495 Museum 126-7 Aegina Town 131-3 animals 546-8, see also individual species Archaeological Museum National Archaeological Agapi 159 Ano Mera 173 () 349 Museum 84, 85 380-1 Archaeological Museum Ano Meria 228 Palace of Knossos 263-7, Agia Galini 280 (Lavrio) 122 , Ano Petali 237 263 264-5 Agia Marina () 368-9 Archaeological Museum Piraeus Archaeological Ano 164 Agia Marina () 147 () 489 Museum 118 Anogi 502 Agia Paraskevi 147 Archaeological Museum Sitia Archaeological Agia Pelagia 511-12 Anogia 277-8 (Mandraki) 343 Museum 301 Agia Triada 267 Antia 450 Archaeological Museum archaeological sites, see 427 Antikythira 512, 508 () 168 also Roman sites, Agii Anargyri 147 184-5, 178-9 Archaeological Museum temples & sanctuaries, (Myrina) 430 tombs Agios Antonios 342 Antipaxi 487, 485 Archaeological Museum Acropolis (Athens) 12, 433-4 Apella Beach 329 (Mytilini) 419 63-9, 66, 12 (Agathonisi) Aphrodite 509 Archaeological Museum Acropolis of Lindos 320 380-1 Apiranthos 194 (Naxos) 189 Acropolis of 315 Agios Georgios (Crete) 305 Apollo Coast 122-5 Archaeological Museum Alyki 442 Agios Gordios 483 Apollonas 195 (Parikia) 179 Ancient Agora (Athens) 75 Agios Kirykos 390-1 Archaeological Museum Apollonia 236-7 Ancient Agora () Agios Nikitas 491 (Rethymno) 273 archaeological museums, 440 (Anafi) 223 Archaeological Museum see also museums Ancient Akrotiri 220 Agios Nikolaos (Crete) (Rhodes) 311-12 Andros Archaeological Ancient Delos 175 296-8, 296, 26 Museum 154 Archaeological Museum Ancient Ialysos 322 Agios Nikolaos (Zakynthos) () 401 Archaeological Museum Ancient Kamiros 322 506 (Agios Nikolaos) 297 Archaeological Museum (Samothraki) 437 Ancient Lato 300 Agios Pavlos 280 Archaeological Museum Ancient Thira 220 Agios Stefanos 481 (Astypalea) 358 Archaeological Museum () 466 Asklepieion 353 air travel 39, 559-60, 561 Archaeological Museum Archaeological Museum alcohol 43, 44, 194, 556, see () 409 Gortyna 271 (Thasos) 440 also wine Archaeological Museum Heraion 404 Archaeological Museum Alexander the Great 518 () 213 Keramikos 83 () 157 Archaeological Museum Knossos 13, 263-7, 263, Archaeological Museum (Fry) 331 13, 264-5 of Eretria 447 Map Pages 000 Archaeological Museum Mikro Horio 340 Archaeological Museum Photo Pages 000 Paleokastro 343 (Halkida) 446 of Karystos 450 576 archaeological sites B Benitses 482 car travel 565-6 continued Barbati 481 bicycling, see cycling Carnivale 247, 246-7 Sanctuary of the Great bargaining 19 birds 385, 547, 385 castles, see also fortresses Gods 436 bathrooms 556-7 birdwatching Agios Georgios Kastro Zakros Palace 302 Batsi 153 Islet 441 497 architecture 541-4 beaches 383 Skala 424, 425 Byzantine-Genoese

INDEX INDEX area codes 17 Agia Anna Beach 205 340 Castle 422 Argostili 495-7, 496 Agios Nikolaos 297 boat travel 38-9, 560, Castle of Faraklos 319 Aristotle 529 Anafi 223 561-4, 562-3, see Castle of Lykourgos

A-C Logothetis 403  Arki 379-80 Andros 155 also boat trips, cruising, Armenistis 394-5 island hopping, sailing Castle of Myrina 430

Apella Beach 329  & yachting Castle of the Knights Armeos 363-5 Argostoli 495 Artemonas 237 boat trips, see also boat 348 Astypalea 359-60 travel, cruising, island art galleries, see galleries, Gardiki Castle 483 Eftalou Beach 424 hopping museums Kastro (Astypalea) 358 Egremni Beach 491 Alonnisos 463 arts 536-40, see also Kastro () 509 Eristos Beach 341 individual arts Corfu 478 Knights of St John Falasarna 288-9 Asklepieion 353 Diafani 329 Castle 325 229 Fry 331 Assos 499, 37 Kritinia Castle 322 Fourni islands 396-7 Astris 441 Ithaki 501 Pandeli Castle 368 Halikia 293 Kastellorizo 333 Astypalea 356-60, 357 cathedrals, see churches & 324-5 Naoussa 182 cathedrals Athens 13, 52, 56-127, 60-1, Hania 284 caves , , , , , 453 66 68 70-1 76 80-1 Ikaria 391 86, 88-9, 13 457 Blue Caves 506 Ios 210 accommodation 56, 95-9 books 218, 514, 537-8 Cave of Antiparos 184 Iraklia 196 activities 91-2 cooking 545 Cave of Philoctetes 432 Iraklio 259 cinemas 111 history 519, 521, 523, Cave of Sykia Olymbi 414 Kambos Beach 375-6 524, 528, 534 climate 56 Cave of the Sacred 332 plants 545 of Agios Giannis 196 courses 92 Kathisma 491, 382-3 border crossings 560 Cave of Zeus 192 drinking & nightlife 105-8 Kea (Tzia) 245 Bouboulina, Laskarina 521 Dikteon Cave 305 entertainment 109-11 Kos 352 Boukari 482 Ideon Cave 278 festivals & events 198 91, 94-5 bouzoukia 110 Matala ‘hippie’ caves 271 Lipsi 379 food 56, 99-105 budget 17, 33-4 Pelekita Cave 302 Livadi Beach 359 gay & lesbian travellers bus travel 564-5, 567 cell phones 16, 556 109 Mandraki Beach 343 business hours 552 children, travel with 49-51, highlights 57 Milos 233 Byron, Lord 522 259 Mykonos 173 history 58-62 Byzantine museums 78-9 Chios 407-14, 407, 37 itineraries 58, 76, 92-3, Myrina 431 Byzantine & Christian Chios Town 409, 410 76, 93 Naoussa 182 Museum (Athens) 87 churches & cathedrals medical services 114 Naxos 192 Byzantine Museum Agia Irini Church 393 safety 114 Neapoli Beach 422 (Chios) 409 Agios Nikolaos shopping 111-13 Pahia Ammos 293 Byzantine Museum Rangavas 81 (Mytilini) 419 sights 62-91 376 Agios Spyridon Church Byzantine Museum 273 tourist information 115 137 (Zakynthos) 505 Athens Cathedral 77 tours 92-4 Preveli Beach 13, 279-80, 13 Byzantine & Chapel of Theoskepasti travel to/from 115-16 416 Post-Byzantine 392 travel within 117-18 Psili Ammos 405 Collection 281 Church of Agii ATMs 554-5 Rhodes 319, 320, 321 Ecclesiastical Theodori 83 Atsitsa 469 (Byzantine) Museum Samos 405 Church of Agios Nikolaos Attica 122, (Samos) 401 124 Samothraki 438 281 August Moon Festival 23, 95 Museum of Byzantine Church of Agios Santorini (Thira) 220 and Post-Byzantine Avgonyma 411 Spyridon 475 241 Art on Kythira 512 Church of Agios Avlaki 481 Shipwreck Beach 506-7 Therapon 419 Avlemonas 512 Skiathos 455 Church of Agios Titos Skopelos 460 C camping 550-1 259 Thasos 443 Map Pages Cape 321-2 Church of Dionysios 505 000 Triopetra 280 Photo Pages Cape Sounion 125-6 Church of Kapnikarea 77 000 Vaï 302 577 Church of Panagia food 148 295 Korais Library & Argentis Evangelistria 157 highlights 149 electricity 552 Folkloric Museum 409 Church of Panagia Kera history 150-1 Elefsina 127 Korgialenio History & 299 Folklore Museum 495 Cycladic civilisation 516 Eleonora’s falcon 385, 385 Church of Sotira Manos Faltaïts Folk cycling 47-8, 561 Elounda 298-9 Lykodimou 81 Museum 466 Cyprus 524 embassies 553

Church of the Holy Milos Folk & History INDEX Emborios 323-4, 345-6, Apostles 76, 79, 78 Museum 232 365-6 Church of the Panagia Museum of History & D emergencies 17 Vrefokratousa 427 dance 540 Folk Art (Limni) 449 language 570-1  C-G Churches of the dangers, see safety Mykonos Folklore Englouvi 492

 Museum 168 Taxiarhes 413 Delos 174-6, 175 environmental issues Kimisis Tis Theotokou Diafani 329-30 Nautical & Folklore Cathedral 139 515, 548 Museum (Gialos) 336 Diakofti 512 Little Metropolis (Church Eretria 447 Nautical & Folklore Diapondia Islands 481 of Agios Eleftherios) 162-5, 163 Museum (Kalymnos) Dimosari Gorge 451-2 77, 79, 79 etiquette 19, 42 362 Dipotamata Gorge 155 Metamorfosis Sotiros 392-3 Fonias River 438 disabilities, travellers chapel 406 events, see festivals & food 19, 20-1, 40-4 with 557 Paleohora 133 events children, catering for diving 45 Panagia Drosiani 193 Evia 54, 444-69, 446-52, 43, 50 Panagia Alonnisos 463 445 festivals 40 Ekatontapyliani 178 Antiparos 184 accommodation 444 glossary 570 Panagia Glykofilousa 424 Athens 91 climate 444 language 569-70 Panagia Paraportiani 168 Chios 413 food 444 forests 383 cinema 514, 523, 537 Corfu 481 highlights 445 fortresses, see also castles climate 16, 22-4, see Fiskardo 499 exchange rates 17 Castello Rosso 451 also individual regions Hania 284 Exogi 502 Fortezza (Rethymno) 272 clothing 18 Hora Sfakion 291 Fortress (Mytilini) 419 coffee 41 Ios 208 Fortress of Agia Mavra Colossus of Rhodes 311 Kalymnos 362 F 489 Falasarna 288-9 consulates 553 Lefkada 491 Kales Fortress 303 Faros 238, 391 Corfu 14, 472-84, 473, Milos 234 Kastro 232 ferries, see boat travel 14, 29 Mykonos 174 Kazarma 301 festivals & events 22-4, Corfu Town 14, 475-80, 183 Koules Venetian Fortress 246-7, 246-7, see also 476-7, 14 Pythagorio 403 259 individual locations courses, see also individual Rethymno 273 Neo Frourio 475 film 514, 523, 537 locations Rhodes 315 Palaio Frourio 475 192 art 457 Skiasthos 456 Fortress 299 Finiki 328 cooking 41 Thasos 441 Venetian Fortress Fira 213-18, 214 language 92 Dodecanese 53, 306-81, (Andros) 154 Fiskardo 499-500 credit cards 555 307 Fourni islands 388-90, flora 545-6 Crete 11, 53, 250-305, accommodation 306 396-8, 388 Folegandros 225-9, 252-3, 26 food 306 227 Frangokastello 289 folklore museums accommodation 250 highlights 307 Frikes 502 Folklore Museum climate 250 history 308-9 Fry 331-2 (Aegina) 131 food 250 dolphins 547-8 highlights 252 Folklore Museum (Agios 200-1 Georgios) 305 G history 251 483 Folklore Museum (Kymi) Gaïos 485-6 cruising 31-4, see also boat driving, see car travel 448 Galissas 165 travel, boat trips, island hopping, sailing Dryopida 243 Folklore Museum galleries 20, see also & yachting Durrell, Gerald 480 (Menetes) 327 museums culture 248-9, 532-5, Durrell, Lawrence 480 Folklore Museum Art Space 220 248-9 DVDs 555 (Skopelos) 457 Athens 94 528-31 Folklore Museum of the Citronne 136 Northern Sporades 461 customs regulations 552 Collection of Post- E Historical & Folk Art Byzantine 489 Cyclades 9, 53, 148-245, Easter 535, see also Museum (Rethymnos) Cultural Foundation of 149, 8-9 individual locations 273 Tinos 157 accommodation 148 economy 514-15, 527, 532-3 Historic & Folklore Fish & Olive 193 climate 148 Eftalou Beach 424 Museum (Leros) 370 578 galleries continued Crete 284 horta 249, 249 Kardamyla 412 Modern Greek Art Diafani 329 Hristos Rahes 393-4 Kardiani 159 Museum 313 Fourni islands 396 12, 137-43, 138, 12 Karlovasi 405-6 Municipal Art Gallery Ghria Vathra Canyon 437 Hydra Town 138-42, 140 325-30, 326, 24 (Hania) 284 Ikaria 392 Karya 492 Municipal Art Gallery Gorge 289 Karystos 450-1

INDEX INDEX (Iraklio) 259 I Iraklio 260 Kasos 330-2, Museum of Ialysos 322 330 Ithaki 501 Contemporary Art Ierapetra 303-4 481 Kalymnos 364 Kastellorizo 332-4 153-4 Ikaria 388-98,

G-L 388  Mt Ypsario 443 Kastellorizo Village 332-4 Museum of Imbros Gorge 289

Contemporary Art 345 Kastro () 237-8  immigration 559 (Rethymno) 273 Paros 179 Kastro () 224-5 Inousses 414-15 National Sculpture Psara 416 Katapola 202-3 insurance 554, 565, 566 Gallery 90 Samaria Gorge 290 internet access 554 Kathisma 491, 382-3 Phos Gallery 193 Santorini (Thira) 215 internet resources 17 Kato Zakros 302-3 Teriade Museum 419 Sifnos 236 children, travel with 51 Kattavia 321 Theophilos Museum 419 Skiathos 456 government travel Kea (Tzia) 243-5, 244 gardens, see parks & southern Evia 451 gardens advisories 554 Kefallonia 493-500, Steni 448 494, 37 Gavdos 294 history 518 Tilos 340 Kefalos 356 Gavrio 152-3 54, 470- history 516-27 Kendros 200 gay travellers 553 512, 471 ancient civilisations Keri 506 Athens 109 accommodation 470 516-17 Kiliomeno 506 Mykonos 172 climate 470 Archaic age 517-18 234 Gennadi 321 food 470 Byzantine era 519 Kini Beach 165 545 highlights 471 classical age 518 Kioni 503 geology 545 Ios 206-10, 206 financial crisis 525-7 Kionia 158 Gialos 335-8 Ioulida 244-5 geometric age 517-18 Kissamos (Kastelli) 287-8 Glossa 459-60 Iraklia 196-7 Independence 520 kitesurfing 46 golden jackal 546-7 Iraklio 255-63, 256-7 Ottoman era 519-20 kitron 194 gorges 383 Ireon 404 Roman era 518-19 Klima 233 Gortyna 271 island hopping 35-9, 150, WWI 522 see also boat travel, Knossos 13, 263-7, , , Gournia 300 263 13 WWII 522-3 boat trips, cruising 264-5 Peninsula 288 hitching 566-7 Ithaki 500-3, 494 Kokkari 405 Greek alphabet 569 holidays 555-6 itineraries 25-30, , , Kondouros 245 568-72 25 27 Homer 517 28, 30 Kontias 432 ‘Grexit’ 527, see also Hora (Amorgos) 203-4 economy, politics Korissia 243-4 Hora (Andros) 153-4 Kos 346-56, 348 Hora (Astypalea) 358-9 K kafenaio 249, Kos Town 347-52, 350 H Hora (Folegandros) 227-8 248-9 Kalamakia 464 Koufonisia 198-200 Hadrian’s Arch 75 Hora (Ios) 207-10 Kalami 481 kri-kri 385, 384 Halki (Dodecanese) 323-5 Hora (Kythira) 509-10 Kalamitsa 468-9 Krithoni 370-1 Halki (Naxos) 193 Hora () 242-3 Kritsa 299 Halkida 446-7 Hora (Mykonos) 168-73, Kalymnos 360-6, 361 Krokos 159 hammams 81 170 Kalyviani 288 Ktikados 159 Hania 14, 281-7, 282-3, 14 Hora (Naxos) 187-92, 188 Kamares 235-6 Kymi 448 health 553-4 Hora (Patmos) 374-5 Kamari (Kos) 356 Kythira 507-12, 508 Hellenic Festival 23, 94-5 Hora (Samothraki) 436 Kamari (Santorini) 219, 220 Kythnos 241-3, 241 Hephaistia 433 Hora (Serifos) 240-1 Kamariotissa 435-6 Heraion 404 Hora (Tinos) 157-8 Kambia 412 Herodotus 519 Hora Sfakion 289-92 L Kambos (Ikaria) 393 hiking 20, 46-7 horse riding Lakka 486-7 Kambos (Timos) 159 Adnros 155 Corfu 481 Lakki 369-70 Kamini 143 Corfu 481 Hydra 139 Lakones 483 Kamiros 322 Kefallonia 495 Langada (Amorgos) 205 Kapodistrias, Ioannis 520 Naoussa 182 Langada (Chios) 412 Kapsali 510-11 Map Pages Naxos 189 language 19, 568-72 000 395-6 Photo Pages horses 385, 469, 384-5 courses 92 000 Karavostasis 226-7 579 Plateau 304-5 Hellenic Maritime Moni Evangelistrias Della Rocca-Barozzi Lato 300 Museum 118 (Skopelos) 460 Venetian Museum 187 Lavrio 122 Maritime Museum of Moni Faneromenis 489 Ecclesiastical Museum of Lefkada (Ikaria) 391 Crete 281 Moni Hozoviotissis 204 Milos 231 Lefkada (Ionian Islands) Maritime Museum Moni Kaisarianis Eggares Olive Press 194 487-92, 488 (Oia) 218 79, 78-9 Epigraphical Museum 74

Lefkada Town 489-90 Nautical & Folklore Moni Kalamiotissas 223 Focas-Kosmetatos INDEX Museum (Gialos) 336 Lefkes 183 Moni Foundation 495 Nautical & Folklore 482 Kounistras 455-6 Giustiniani Palace Museums (Kalymnos) Museum 409

Lefkos 328 Moni Panagias Spilianis  L-M 362 Herakleidon Museum 83 legal matters 554 343, 403

 Nautical Museum of Moni Preveli 279 Historical Archives Leros 366-71, 367 Inousses 414 Moni Profiti Ilia 143 Museum of Hydra 139 lesbian travellers 553 412 Moni Taxiarhon 422 Historical Museum of Athens 109 Masouri 363-5 Crete 259 Moni Taxiarhou Mihail Skala Eressou 426 Mastihari 353-6 Panormiti 338 Industrial Museum of Lesvos (Mytilini) 14, 417-29, Mastihohoria 412 Ermoupoli 162 , , Moni Theotokou 483 418 14 26 Matala 271-2 Jewish Museum 81 Lesvos Petrified Forest 425 Moni Toplou 302 measures 555 Jewish Synagogue Limenaria 441 Moni Zoödohou Pigis 137 Megali Petra 491 Museum 313 Limenas Mesta 414 Nea Moni 411 Megalohori 219 Kanellopoulos Limni 449-50 money 16, 17, 19, 552, Museum 81 Megalo Horio 554-5 Limnia 412 (Agathonisi) 381 Megaro Gyzi Museum 214 Moni Arkadiou 276-7 Limnos 429-33, 430 Megalo Horio Milos Mining Museum Moni Hozoviotissis 204 Lindos 319-21 (Tilos) 341 231 Moni Toplou 302 Lionas 195 Meganisi 492-3 Mineralogical Museum monk seals 385, 463, 547 Lipsi 376-9, 378 Melanes 194 122 Monolithos 322 Lipsi Village 377-9 Melinda 428 Mitropolis Museum 189 mosques literature 537-8, see also Menetes 327 Museum House of Mosque of Süleyman313 Yannoulis Halepas 159 books Merihas 242 Livadi (Astypalea) 359 Neratzes Mosque 273 Museum of Cretan Mersini 200 Livadi (Donousa) 200 Yeni Tzami 419 Ethnology 272 Mesta 412-14 Livadi (Serifos) 239-40 Moudros 432 Museum of Cycladic Milos 8, 229-34, 229, 8-9 Art 86-7 Livadia 340-1 Mt Ohi 451 Minoan civilisation 516-17, Museum of Decorative loggerhead turtles 385, Mt Parnitha National 541 Arts 313 547, 384 Park 126 Minoan sites 267 Museum of Greek Loggos 486, 29 Mt Psiloritis 278 mobile phones 16, 556 Gastronomy 84, 86 Louha 506 museums 20, see also Mohlos 300 Museum of Greek Loutra (Kythos) 243 archaeological Molos 468 Popular Instruments Loutra Edipsou 448-9 museums, Molyvos () 422-4 Byzantine museums, 74 Loutra (Therma) 437-8 monasteries & convents folklore museums, Museum of Industrial Loutraki 459-60 Olive Oil Production Convent of Galataki 449 maritime museums 292 73-4 423 Holy Monastery of Museum of Islamic Zoodohos Pigi 375 Antivouniotissa Museum 475 Art 84 M Kythira 512 Museum of Marble Magazia (Paxi) 486 Monastery of Kimisis Bakratsa Mansion Museum 457 Crafts 159 Magazia (Skyros) 468 Theotokou 416 Bath House of the Museum of Prehistoric Malia 267 Monastery of St John the Winds 81 Thera 213-14 Mandraki (Hydra) 143 Theologian 374 86 Museum of Samos Mandraki (Nisyros) 342-4 Monastery of the Wines 401 Apocalypse 374-5 Benaki Museum Pireos Manolates 405 Museum of Solomos 505 Moni Agias Efpraxias 143 Annexe 83 422 Museum of the Memorial Moni Agiou Gerasimou Bouboulina’s Museum 145 maps 554 of the Refugees of 497 Byzantine & Christian 1922 422 Marathi 380 Museum 87 Moni Arhangelou 443 National Historical Marathon 126-7 Moni Arkadiou 276 Centre of Folk Art & Museum 83 Marathounda 338 Tradition 74 Moni Chrysopigi 238 National Museum of Maries 441 Christos Capralos Moni Dafniou 79, 78 Contemporary Art 75 maritime museums Museum 133 Moni Episkopis 224 Natural History Museum Aegean Maritime Citrus Memories of the Lesvos Petrified Museum 168 Moni Evangelistrias Museum 411 (Skiathos) 455 Forest 425 580 museums continued Olymbi 414 philosophers 528-9 Rethymno 272-6, 274, Papadiamanti House Olymbos 15, 329, 15 phonecards 556 268-9 Museum 453 Olympic games 62 photography 555 Rhodes 10, 309-23, Santozeum 214 opening hours 552 Pigadia 325-7 308, 10 Spetses Museum 145 Ormos 207-10 Piraeus 118-21, 119 Rhodes Town 311-19, 312, Vrana Olive-Press Ormos Marathokambou 232-3 314-15

INDEX INDEX Museum 423 405 Plakias 278-9 Rina 366 Vrisa Natural History Otzias 245 planning 18-19 rock climbing 364 Museum 428 ouzo 43 budgeting 17 Roman sites, see also War Museum 369-70 ,M-S archaeological sites  calendar of events music 538-40 temples & sanctuaries, 22-4 bouzoukia 110 P tombs  children, travel festivals 95, 389 palaces, see also Hadrian’s Arch 75 archaeological sites, with 49-51 rembetika 539 Hadrian’s Library 77 castles cruising 31-4 77 Mykonos 165-74, 166, 2 Achillion Palace 482 Greece basics 16-17 Roman baths 82-3 Mylopotas 207-10 Palace of St Michael & Greece’s regions 52-4 Rousoum Gialos 464 Myrina 430-2 St George 475 internet resources 17 Myrties 363-5 Palace of the Grand island hopping 35-9 Myrtos 304 Master 312 itineraries 25-30, 25, 27, S mythology 451, 529, Palamari 469 28, 30 safety 50, 114, 556 530, 531 Paleohora 293-5 outdoor activities 45-8 sailing & yachting 32 Mytilini Town 419-22, 420 Paleokastritsa 483 travel seasons 16, 22-4 Samaria Gorge 11, 290, 11, Paleopoli (Andros) 155 plants 545-6 21, 383 N Paleopoli (Kythira) 512 Platanos 368-9 Sami 498-9 name days 247, 247 Pali 346 Plato 528 Samos 398-406, 400 Nanou 338 Palia Kameni 222 Platys Gialos 238 Samothraki 434-8, 435, Naoussa 182-3 Paliki Peninsula 498 Poles 245 382 Nas 394 Panagia 442 Poliohni 432 San Michalis 165 National Archaeological Pandeli 369 politics 514-15, 527 Sanctuary of the Great Museum 84, 85 Panormitis 338 Pollonia 233 Gods 436-7 national parks & reserves Panormos 159 Polyrrinia 288 Sangri 193 546 Papandreou, Andreas population 515 Santorini (Thira) 9, 210-22, 524, 525 211, 5, 9 Mt Parnitha National Poros 135-7, 135 Park 126 Sappho 425, 427 Papandreou, Georgios 523 Poros Town 136-7 National Marine Park of Sarakiniko 233 Paralia Kymis 448 Porto Katsiki 491 Alonnisos Northern Saronic Gulf Islands 52, Parikia 177-81, 180 Posidonia 165 Sporades 461-2 128-47, 129-30 parks & gardens, see postal services 555 Naxos 185-95, 185, 48 also national parks & accommodation 128 Potamos 511, 512 222 reserves climate 128 362-3 newspapers 555 Hill 75 food 128 Preveli Beach 13, Nikea 346 Filopappou Hill 74-5 highlights 129 279-80, 13 Nimborios 338 Hill of the 75 scams, see safety Psara 415-17 Nisyros 342-6, 343 National Gardens 82 Schinousa 197-8 356 northeastern Aegean is- Zappeio Gardens 82 sculpture 529 Psili Ammos 405 lands 53, 386-443, 387 Paros 176-84, seals 385 178-9 Psyhro 305 accommodation 386 67-9 Serifos 238-9, public holidays 555-6 240 climate 386 passports 559 Siana 322 food 386 Pyli 353 Patitiri 461-4 Sifnos 234-8, 237 highlights 387 Pyrgi 412 Patmos 10, 371-6, 372, 2 425 490 Pyrgos 159, 219, 405 Paxi 484-7, 485, 29 Pythagoras 398 Sikinos 224-5, 225 Peania 127 Pythagorio 402-4 Sitia 300-2 O Pedi 338 Skala (Angistri) 134 Oia 218-19, 9, 24 Pefkoulia 491 Skala (Astypalea) 358-9 Old Alonnisos 464 483 R Skala (Patmos) 372-4 Rafina 121-2 olives 423 Perdika 133-4 Skala Eresou 425-7, 26 religion 515, 534-5 Pericles 518 Skala Kallonis 425 rembetika 539 Perissa 219, 220, 222 Skala Kamirou 322 Map Pages 000 reserves, see national Petra 424 Skala Marion 441 Photo Pages 000 parks & reserves Phaestos 267 Skala Polyhnitou 429 581 Skala Prinou 441 365 tourist information 557 Vrontados 411 Skiathos 452-6, 453 telephone services 16, 556 tours 567, see also Vroukounda 329 Skiathos Town 453-5 temples & sanctuaries, individual locations Skopelos 456-60, 458 see also Tragaea 192 archaeological sites, train travel 560, 567 W Skopelos Town 457-9 walking tours 92, 92 Roman sites, tombs travel to/from Greece Skyrian horses 469 water 554 Parthenon 67-9 559-60 INDEX Skyros 15, 465-9, 466, 15 Sanctuaries of the travel within Greece 561-7 waterskiing 46 Skyros Town 465-7 Foreign Gods 176 trekking, see hiking weather 16, 22-4, see also Small Cyclades 195-201, 195 Sanctuary of 127 individual regions

Triopetra 280  S-Z smoking 556 websites, see internet Sanctuary of the Tris Boukes Bay 469  snorkelling 45, see Kabeiroi 432 resources Trypiti 232-3 also diving & Temple of Aphaia 133 weights 555 Tsipras, Alexis 527 snorkelling Temple of Apollo wild boars 547 , travel to/from 399 Socrates 528 (Aegina) 131 wildflowers 545-6 Sougia 292-3 Temple of Apollo turtles 385, 547, 384 wildlife 546-8 Tzermiado 305 Spartohori 492 (Naxos) 187 windsurfing 46, 48 Spartylas 480 Temple of Athena wine 44 Nike 67 Spetses 143-7, 144 V Iraklio Wine Country 270 Temple of Demeter 193 Spetses Town 145-7 Vaï 302 Kefallonia 497 Temple of Olympian Spili 278, 268 Vari Bay 165 Santorini (Thira) 221 Zeus 75 Spinalonga Island 299, 268 Vasiliki 490-1 women travellers 557 Temple of Poseidon Sporades 54, 444-69, 452- (Cape Sounion) 125-6 Vasilikos Peninsula 506 work 557-8 69, 445 Temple of Poseidon Vatera 428-9 accommodation 444 (Poros) 137 Vathy (Ithaki) 501-2 climate 444 X Thasos 438-43, 439, 382 Vathy (Samos) 400-2, 402 Xirokambos 370 food 444 Thasos (Limenas) 440 Vathy (Sifnos) 238 Xylokeriza 147 highlights 445 theatre 528 Vathys 366 Xylouris, Nikos 277 Stavros 200, 502 festivals 95, 389 vegetarians 43 Steni 447-8 Theologos 441 visas 16, 557 Steni Vala 464 Therma 391 visual arts 536 Y yachting 32 Strinylas 480 Thirasia 222 Vlyhos 143 surfing 46 Tholaria 205 volcanoes 334-8, 335 Tilos 338-42, 339 Nisyros 345 Z synagogues time 16, 556 Santorini (Thira) 210-22 Zakros 302-3 Etz Hayyim Synagogue Zakros Gorge 302 Tinos 155-9, 156 Volimes 506 284 tipping 19, 34, 555 Volissos 412 Zakynthos 503-7, 504 Kahal Shalom volunteering 558 Zakynthos Town 505-6 Synagogue 313 toilets 556-7 tombs Votsalakia 405 Zaros 270-1 Syros 160-5, 161 Lycian tomb 333 Votsi 464 Zia 353 Marathon Battlefield & Vourliotes 405 T Tomb 126 Vourvoulos 219 Tarabados 159 Mausoleum of Vravrona 127 taxis 567 Inousses 415 Vromolithos 369 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 582

Map Legend

Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Shinto Gate Walking Tour detour Sikh Hut/Shelter Path/Walking Trail Taoist Lighthouse Winery/Vineyard Lookout Boundaries Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Mountain/ International Other Sight Oasis State/Province Park Disputed Activities, Pass Regional/Suburb Courses & Tours Picnic Area Marine Park Bodysurfing Waterfall Cliff Diving Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Population Course/Tour Capital (National) Hydrography Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Capital (State/Province) River, Creek Skiing City/Large Town Intermittent River Snorkelling Town/Village Canal Surfing Water Swimming/Pool Transport Walking Airport Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Windsurfing Border crossing Reef Other Activity Bus Cable car/Funicular Areas Sleeping Cycling Airport/Runway Sleeping Ferry Camping Metro station Beach/Desert Monorail Cemetery (Christian) Eating Parking Eating Petrol station Cemetery (Other) S-Bahn/S-train/Subway station Glacier Drinking & Nightlife Taxi Drinking & Nightlife T-bane/Tunnelbana station Mudflat Cafe Train station/Railway Park/Forest Tram Entertainment Tube station Sight (Building) Entertainment U-Bahn/Underground station Sportsground Other Transport Shopping Swamp/Mangrove Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Greg Ward Dodecanese Having first visited Greece as an InterRailing teenager, Greg Ward (www.gregward.info) has been returning ever since, and honeymooned on Symi. He has written books and articles about the Greek islands for many publishers and newspapers.

Richard Waters Ionian Islands Richard is an award-winning journalist and writes about Greece for the Daily Telegraph, the Independent and Sunday Times Travel Magazine. He lives with his family in the Cotswolds but his spiritual home is in the islands of Greece where he first went as a boy in 1974. Since then he has been more than 20 times, and is most at home sat in a kafenio talking about myths, digging into freshly caught calamari and island hopping. As ever his admiration goes out to the people of Greece who, despite unimaginably difficult times, remain among the friendliest on the planet. AOUR beat-up old STORY car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS Korina Miller Coordinating Author, Crete Korina first ventured to Greece as a backpacking teenager, sleeping on ferry decks and hiking in the mountains. Since then, she’s found herself drawn back to soak up the timelessness of the old towns and drink coffee with locals in seasidekafeneio . Korina grew up on Vancouver Island and has been exploring the globe independently since she was 16, visiting or living in 36 countries and picking up a degree in Communications and Canadian Studies and an MA in Migration Studies en route. Korina has written nearly 40 titles for Lonely Planet and also works as a children’s writing coach. Korina also wrote Plan Your Trip, Understand Greek Islands (except for Culture) and Survival Guide.

Alexis Averbuck Athens & Around, Crete, Saronic Gulf Islands Alexis lives in Hydra, takes regular reverse R&R in Athens, and makes any excuse she can to travel the isolated back roads of her adopted land. She is committed to dispelling the stereotype that Greece is simply a string of sandy beaches. A travel writer for two decades, Alex- is has lived in Antarctica for a year, crossed the Pacific by sailboat and written books on her journeys through Asia and the Americas. She’s also a painter – visit www.alexisaverbuck.com. Read more about Alexis at: http://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/alexisaverbuck Carolyn Bain Cyclades Melbourne-born Carolyn worked on her first guidebook for Lonely Planet back in 2000, and it involved some serious island-hopping around Greece. There began two addictions: writing guidebooks, and the Greek islands. Fifteen years later, this trip fed those addictions over a glorious two-month stint, in which Carolyn visited all the Cyclades. She has now visited 50 Greek islands – and has way too many favourites. Read more at carolynbain.com.au.

Michael Stamatios Clark Northeastern Aegean Islands, Evia & the Sporades Michael’s Greek roots go back to the village of Karavostamo on the Aegean island of Ikaria, home of his maternal grandparents who emigrated to America. His first trip to Greece was as a deckhand aboard a Greek freighter, trading English lessons for Greek over wine and backgammon. Since then, he has become a Greek citizen, visits the islands often and enjoys rembetika and retsina. He has also worked on Lonely Planet guides to Burma (Myanmar), New York and Hawaii.

OVER MORE PAGE WRITERS Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN 36 005 607 983 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona- 9th edition – Mar 2016 ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the ISBN 978 1 74321 860 0 accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum © Lonely Planet 2016 Photographs © as indicated 2016 extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in China All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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