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For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy. OUR READERS Alexis Averbuck Boundless gratitude to Alexandra Stamopou- Many thanks to the travellers who used the lou for her inspiration. She travels with me last edition and wrote to us with helpful everywhere. Ryan Ver Berkmoes was a peachy hints, useful advice and interesting road companion and an aces navigator on anecdotes: unmarked Cretan tracks. Thanks to Ramona Mauro Bisello, Marina Caputi, Huseyin Cetek, Daniela Ciscato, Gloria Rodríguez Gil, Michael for an insider’s take on Gavdos. Big cheer for Hanna, Carola Kehrle, Cornelia Kerkhoff, Chris Korina, Kate and Richard, who contributed Knaggs, Julian Lord, Mimi Mengerink, Wynn so much to the Crete chapter. Applause for Rees, Emmy Skensved, Sally Stevens, Murat Brana: conscientious, informed and compas- Ucar. sionate editor. Margarita, Kostas, Zisis, Anthy and Costas made Athens home. Efharisto poli to those who welcomed me so warmly around AUTHOR THANKS Crete, the Saronic Gulf and Athens. Korina Miller Carolyn Bain An enormous thank you to Kirk and my mum Efharisto poli to Brana Vladisavljevic for a and dad for minding the fort while I was away wonderful gig, and to Team Greece for sterling and making it possible for me to take this pro- work. Across the Cyclades, hundreds of kind, ject on. Thank you to my fabulous daughters, generous locals (and visitors) answered my Monique and Simone, for letting me work and also encouraging me to take breaks. Thank you questions, engaged in conversation, fed me to Brana at LP for her support and to my co- (oh god, did they feed me!) and showed me authors for their insights and cameraderie. A the meaning of heartwarming Greek filoxenia. warm efharisto to all of the people I met on the Sincere thanks to all of them. Thanks to old road – both locals and travellers – who shared friends Fiona and William Reeve for fun on their stories, knowledge and enthusiasm for Santorini, and to my favourite co-traveller, Greece and were unwaveringly hospitable de- Kelvin Adams, for three weeks of ace company spite such difficult times. And thanks to Bing and dedicated research of beaches and blue the loyal coonhound for keeping me company domes. while I burned the midnight oil. 574 Michael Stamatios Clark Richard Waters Ευχαριστω to all who made my ferry-hopping Special thanks to Michael in Corfu and Leo- through the Greek islands a trip from the nidas at Pachis travel. Also to Lily Alicabiotis. start. Special thanks to my splendiferous There are many Greek people who made family, Janet, Melina and Alexandros, and to my journey easy at what were difficult times the editorial team of Brana Vladisavljevic and for them, so my thanks to all. Thanks too to BEHIND THE SCENES Korina Miller for cheerful support through- Korina Miller and Alexis Averbuck, my coordi- out. In the Sporades islands, many thanks to nating authors, for all their help and patience, Chrysanthi, Amanda, Heather, Pakis, Alexan- and to Brana Vladisavljevic, my destination dra, Georgos and Mahi, Makis, Bessie, Gisela; ed, for sending me out there. in the Aegean, thanks to Anastasia, Theofilos, the Fouskas family, Demetra and Vassilis, Naya and Petros, and Tasos, Margarita and ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Kostas. Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Greg Ward Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updat- ed World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Thanks to the many wonderful people who Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System make travelling in the Dodecanese such a Sciences, 11, 163–3 44. pleasure, and thanks above all to my wife, Illustrations pp64–5 and pp264–5 by Sam Cook, for sharing the fun. Javier Martinez Zarracina. Cover photograph: Oia, Santorini (Thira); AWL/Shaun Egan. THIS BOOK Destination Editor Cover Researcher Brana Vladisavljevic Wendy Wright This 9th edition of Lonely Plan- Thanks to Brendan et’s Greek Islands guidebook Product Editors Dempsey, Ryan Evans, Andi was researched and written Elizabeth Jones, Kate Mathews Jones, Indra Kilfoyle, Claire by Korina Miller, Alexis Aver- Senior Cartographer Murphy, Claire Naylor, Karyn buck, Carolyn Bain, Michael Valentina Kremenchutskaya Noble, Kirsten Rawlings, Alison Stamatios Clark, Greg Ward Book Designer Ridgway, Diana Saengkham, and Richard Waters. This Michael Buick Dianne Schallmeiner, Ellie guidebook was produced by Assisting Editors Simpson, Angela Tinson, the following: Pete Cruttenden, Carly Hall, Lauren Wellicome, Amanda Victoria Harrison, Ross Taylor Williamson, Sofia Zournatzidi ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 575 Index A Alinda 370-1 Archaeological Museum Archaeological Museum accommodation 18, 550-1, Alonnisos 460-5, 462 (Hania) 281 of Paleopoli 155 568, see also individual Alopronia 224-5 Archaeological Museum Archaeological Museum (Ikaria) 390, 393 of Pythagorio 403 locations Amorgos 201-6, 201 Archaeological Museum Archaeology Museum Acropolis (Athens) 12, 63-9, Anafi 222-3 , (Ios) 208 (Milos) 232 66 12 Anavatos 411 activities 45-8, see also Archaeological Museum Folk Museum Collection Ancient Agora (Athens) 75, individual activities (Kalymnos) 362 (Naxos) 189 76, 76 Adamas 230-1 Archaeological Museum Heraklion Archaeological Ancient Delos 175 Aegean, see northeastern (Kastellorizo) 333 Museum 257-9, 269 Aegean islands Ancient Eleusis 127 Archaeological Museum Ierapetra Archaeological Aegiali 204-5 Andros 151-5, 152 (Kea) 245 Museum 303 Archaeological Museum Marathon Archaeological Aegina 130-4, 130 Angistri 134 (Kefallonia) 495 Museum 126-7 Aegina Town 131-3 animals 546-8, see also individual species Archaeological Museum National Archaeological Agapi 159 Ano Mera 173 (Kos) 349 Museum 84, 85 Agathonisi 380-1 Archaeological Museum Ano Meria 228 Palace of Knossos 263-7, Agia Galini 280 (Lavrio) 122 , Ano Petali 237 263 264-5 Agia Marina (Leros) 368-9 Archaeological Museum Piraeus Archaeological Ano Syros 164 Agia Marina (Spetses) 147 (Lefkada) 489 Museum 118 Anogi 502 Agia Paraskevi 147 Archaeological Museum Sitia Archaeological Agia Pelagia 511-12 Anogia 277-8 (Mandraki) 343 Museum 301 Agia Triada 267 Antia 450 Archaeological Museum archaeological sites, see Agiasos 427 Antikythira 512, 508 (Mykonos) 168 also Roman sites, Agii Anargyri 147 Antiparos 184-5, 178-9 Archaeological Museum temples & sanctuaries, (Myrina) 430 tombs Agios Antonios 342 Antipaxi 487, 485 Archaeological Museum Acropolis (Athens) 12, Agios Efstratios 433-4 Apella Beach 329 (Mytilini) 419 63-9, 66, 12 Agios Georgios (Agathonisi) Aphrodite 509 Archaeological Museum Acropolis of Lindos 320 380-1 Apiranthos 194 (Naxos) 189 Acropolis of Rhodes 315 Agios Georgios (Crete) 305 Apollo Coast 122-5 Archaeological Museum Alyki 442 Agios Gordios 483 Apollonas 195 (Parikia) 179 Ancient Agora (Athens) 75 Agios Kirykos 390-1 Archaeological Museum Apollonia 236-7 Ancient Agora (Thasos) Agios Nikitas 491 (Rethymno) 273 archaeological museums, 440 Agios Nikolaos (Anafi) 223 Archaeological Museum see also museums Ancient Akrotiri 220 Agios Nikolaos (Crete) (Rhodes) 311-12 Andros Archaeological Ancient Delos 175 296-8, 296, 26 Museum 154 Archaeological Museum Ancient Ialysos 322 Agios Nikolaos (Zakynthos) (Samos) 401 Archaeological Museum Ancient Kamiros 322 506 (Agios Nikolaos) 297 Archaeological Museum (Samothraki) 437 Ancient Lato 300 Agios Pavlos 280 Archaeological Museum Ancient Thira 220 Agios Stefanos 481 (Astypalea) 358 Archaeological Museum (Skyros) 466 Asklepieion 353 air travel 39, 559-60, 561 Archaeological Museum Archaeological Museum alcohol 43, 44, 194, 556, see (Chios) 409 Gortyna 271 (Thasos) 440 also wine Archaeological Museum Heraion 404 Archaeological Museum Alexander the Great 518 (Fira) 213 Keramikos 83 (Tinos) 157 Archaeological Museum Knossos 13, 263-7, 263, Archaeological Museum (Fry) 331 13, 264-5 of Eretria 447 Map Pages 000 Archaeological Museum Mikro Horio 340 Archaeological Museum Photo Pages 000 Paleokastro 343 (Halkida) 446 of Karystos 450 576 archaeological sites B Benitses 482 car travel 565-6 continued Barbati 481 bicycling, see cycling Carnivale 247, 246-7 Sanctuary of the Great bargaining 19 birds 385, 547, 385 castles, see also fortresses Gods 436 bathrooms 556-7 birdwatching Agios Georgios Kastro Zakros Palace 302 Batsi 153 Panagia Islet 441 497 architecture 541-4 beaches 383 Skala Kallonis 424, 425 Byzantine-Genoese INDEX area codes 17 Agia Anna Beach 205 Tilos 340 Castle 422 Argostili 495-7, 496 Agios Nikolaos 297 boat travel 38-9, 560, Castle of Faraklos 319 Aristotle 529 Anafi 223 561-4, 562-3, see Castle of Lykourgos A-C Logothetis 403 Arki 379-80 Andros 155 also boat trips, cruising,