OSTA Annual Conference June 14-17 Highlights Fish Lake Cut-Off

Volume 18 Spring 2012 No. 1

OSTA Annual Conference June 14-17 OSTA News Highlights Fish Lake Cut-Off President’s Corner ...... 3 Don't miss this year's conference Manager Musings ...... 6 June 14-17 in Richfield, Utah. Annual Conference ...... 17, 36 Enjoy over 24 sessions about vari- Revision of Bylaws ...... 24 ous segments of the Trail. Tour Bylaws ...... 25 the Trail near Fish Lake on Thurs- 2012 Election...... 31 day and Sunday. Information and registration is in this issue in a Articles centerfold pullout section, and is also available online at www. Rusty Rifle Barrel Found . .8 oldspanishtrail.org. You'll find the Insights into Fish Lake Cut-off. . 10 latest information, including ses- Book Review: Pio Pico . . . . .15 sions schedules and maps, online. Jefferson Hunt ...... 16 Artists on the North Branch . . .32 Enclosed in your Spanish Traces envelope is a postcard ballot to vote for two officers and two state directors. Please return the ballot no later News from the Trail than May 1. At the conference we will vote on amended bylaws, which are printed beginning on page 25 of this issue. Your votes are important. Trail Steward Workshop ...... 1 Participate! Chapter Reports...... 5,7 LA Heritage Day ...... 7 Trail Steward Workshop Scheduled for April 27 and 28 BLM New State Directors . . 5 The Man from Abiquiu ...... 8 Help monitor segments of the Old Spanish National Historic Trail on NM Historical Events . . . . 23 public land near where you live. This free workshop will be held April Reburials at LA Cemetery. . . . .24 27 and 28 in Taos, New Mexico at the Carson National Forest Supervisor Building, 208 Cruz Alta Road. The workshop includes classroom training Association Manager: and field training. Funding is provided by a Bureau of Land Management Dennis Ditmanson grant. Training workshops are free; pre-registration is required. For more PO Box 909 Las Vegas, NM 87701 information or to sign up for a workshop, contact manager@oldspanish- 505-425-6039 trail.org, call 505-425-6039, or visit oldspanishtrail.org/participate/stew- [email protected] ardship.php.

Spring 2012 Spanish Traces 1 THE OLD SPANISH TRAIL ASSOCIATION OSTA Board - 2011 The Old Spanish Trail (OST), one of America’s long distance pioneer President: Reba Wells Grandrud, Ph.D. trade routes, is recognized by Congress as a National Historic Trail. From 2322 E Cholla St. Phoenix, AZ 85028-1709 1829 to 1848, traders and pack mules took the OST on a six-week trek 602-992-0339 from northern New Mexico to Southern California, where woolen goods [email protected] from New Mexico were swapped for horses and pack stock raised on Vice-President: Paul Ostapuk California’s ranchos. Many took the trail – traders, frontiersmen, trappers, PO Box 3532 families, military expeditions, and Indian guides. Page, AZ 86040 928-645-2558 [email protected]

The mission of the Old Spanish Trail Association (OSTA) is to study, Secretary: Judy Nickle preserve, protect, interpret, and promote appropriate use of the Old 6267 S 157th Way Spanish National Historic Trail (OSNHT). OSTA promotes public Gilbert, AZ 85298 602-292-2655 awareness of the OSNHT and its multicultural heritage through [email protected]

publications, a website, and interpretive activities; by encouraging Treasurer: research; and by partnering with governments and private organizations. Mark Franklin 1911 Main Ave. Suite 236B We encourage you to join OSTA, help in trail preservation, and increase Durango, CO 81301 970-375-7992 appreciation of the multicultural heritage of the American Southwest. [email protected]

Arizona Director: Jerry Nickle 6267 S 157th Way Visit the OSTA Website Gilbert, AZ 85298 www.oldspanishtrail.org 480-497-9075 [email protected]

The OSTA website has an interactive map highlighting scenic trail locations California Director Alex King and is the place to go for both general background and recent news on the 3716 Coolidge Ave. OSNHT and OSTA. The site contains maps, an overview history of the trail Los Angeles, CA 90066 [email protected] including a bibliography, a listing of relevant books with links to sites where Colorado Director they can be purchased, and a regularly updated news page that contains Carol Patterson, Ph.D. 1723 Stellar Pl. links to government reports, activities of the OSTA members and other news Montrose, CO 81401 970-252-8679 related to the trail. The web page also links to National Park Service (NPS) [email protected] and Bureau of Land Management (BLM) sites that have links to public Nevada Director documents and maps of the OSNHT. Copies of the DVD Old Spanish Liz Warren, Ph.D. PO Box 19039 Trail Suite, a CD of back issues of Spanish Traces, books and pins can be Jean, NV 89019 purchased from the site. Memberships (new or renewal) may also be paid 702-874-1410 on the OSTA website. [email protected] OSTA Membership: New Mexico Director Margaret Sears Individual $25/year Spanish Traces is the official publication of Family $30/year 1871 Candela St. the Old Spanish Trail Association (OSTA), a Sustaining $50/year Santa Fe, NM 87505-5602 nonprofit501(c)(3) organization, incorporated Student $12/year 505-473-3124 Institutional $30/year [email protected] under the laws of the State of Colorado. Life (single or couple) $250 Spanish Traces welcomes submission of Corporate $100/min Utah Director articles, book reviews, and OST related news. Steve Heath Pay online or mail your check to: The next deadline for submissions is July 10, 2642 E. Rock Land Dr. Lorraine Carpenter Washington, UT 84780 2012. All matters relating to Spanish Traces OSTA Membership Coordinator PO Box 1080 435-627-9394 should be directed to the OSTA Editor. [email protected] Waxhaw, NC 28173 . Ruth Friesen, Spanish Traces Editor [email protected] 1046 Red Oaks NE Director-at-Large Albuquerque, New Mexico 87122 James Jefferson, Ph.D. The Old Spanish Trail Association assumes 3258 Highway 172 [email protected] Durango, CO 81303 505.681.3026 no responsibility for statements or opinions of 970-259-1038 contributors. [email protected]

2 Spanish Traces Spring 2012 Chapter Contacts

Armijo Chapter (AZ) Jim Page Leo Lyman, (Tres Trails Chapter PO Box 4542 Page, AZ 86040 President) and Robert Leonard 435-675-9122 and Lydia Jakovac (Fish Lake [email protected] USFS). Four state directors, four Tecopa Chapter (CA) Jack Prichett officers, and Supt. Aaron Mahr of 857 Nowita Place the National Trails Intermoun- Venice, CA 90291 310-895-4747 tain Region (NTIR) office attend- [email protected] ed Friday and Saturday sessions. La Vereda del Norte Chapter (CO) The agenda was a heavy one Ray Lara 16099 County Rd. 15-1/4 with prickly issues: refining the La Jara, CO 81140 new bylaws (see elsewhere in 719-274-5296 [email protected] this issue), recognizing that the 2012 ballot had to be sent to the North Branch Chapter (CO) Eugene Shelton membership with no candidate 174 Shamrock St. Grand Junction, CO 84720 for Colorado director, and talk- 970-244-8830 ing candidly about our differing [email protected] President’s Corner opinions of renewable energy Nevada Chapter (NV) projects that are encroaching Ashley Hall by Reba Wells Grandrud 4651 White Rock Dr. and impacting the historic and Las Vegas, NV 89121 OSTA President 702-433-7875 nationally-designatedmembers and Old friends Span- [email protected] ofish the Trail. Trail It is and hoped the that Associa many- Salida del Sol Chapter (NM) tionof you— Pat Kuhlhoff 14 Duende Rd. Well into the new year of 2012 Santa Fe, NM 87505 (Statehood Centennial Year for —will attend the June 14-17 505-466-4877 [email protected] New Mexico and Arizona), OSTA conference in Richfield, supportval- uedyour volunteer volunteer workingefforts Board, Red Pueblo Chapter (UT) good news abounds: spring is Jeff Frey “just around the corner” and and, perhaps, step up your 1386 S. Lee Drive . Kanab, UT 84741-6166 the Old Spanish Trail Associa- 435-644-8471 tion’s national board recently [email protected] concluded a most productive Concerns continue that on all Southern Utah Chapter (UT) board meeting in St. George, levels, overall OSTA leadership Al Matheson 8847 West 2200 South Utah. Just being in Utah’s “Di- seems to be somewhat stymied, Cedar City, UT 84720 or hung up in making connection 435-586-9762 xie” is a treat—the dazzling (the historic Old Spanish Trail- [email protected] red sandstone landscape never recognizedbetween the by valued Congress Resource as the Tres Trails Chapter (UT) ceases to thrill—and addition - Old Spanish NATIONAL HISTORIC Leo Lyman ally, we enjoyed the company of TRAIL) PO Box 461326 Leeds, UT 84746 Tres Trails (St. George) and Red 435-879-2345 and pending great Chal- [email protected] Pueblo (Kanab) chapter members, two short excursions to lenges and Accomplishments. William Workman Chapter (UK) sites on the Armijo and/or Main • William Ramsay Cumbria, England Route of the historic Trail, and a Could it be that we are afraid? c/o [email protected] steak fry at the home of Utah Di- • afraid to move beyond our rector Steve (Donna) Heath. On “comfort zone;” afraid to take responsibil- Friday, the board heard planning President’s Corner continued on page 4 details from the 2012 Richfield Spring 2012 ConferenceSpanish Committee—Chair Traces 3 President’s Corner, continued from page 3 . or just good, but great projects PNTS conference calls; that will benefit in more than the monthly conference calls ity of committing to work one way. The Board worked of the Cultural Resources between annual confer- through about ten projects, pri- Protection Coalition. ences and board meetings oritizing, deciding how to fund, and take seriously whatever and making decisions. More on I keep in close contact by phone, responsibility we have, large that as those ten projects are email, or in person with the or small; chair or serve on a developed. Association Manager, OSTA committee; “beat the ‘in- Spanishexecutive Traces, committee, c at-large terested' bushes” to recruit • RAISE public awareness of and state directors, editor of non-board members for the National Trails System (ALL hapter leader- committees; and when an the National Scenic and Historic ship, the Stewardship Committee email does not elicit a re- Trails), thereby raising public and the 2012 Annual Confer- sponse, to pick up the phone awareness of our own special ence Committee (the only two • and make a friendly contact, NHT. OSTA sends one, two, or currently active committees), more than once if necessary; three board members annually and Membership Coordinator. I afraid to pursue to meetings and workshops of try to talk with and encourage accomplishment(s) of the our national umbrella organiza- potential members, potential goal in a timely manner— tion: the Partnership for the committee members, potential I havemaking challenged it a priority? our Association National Trails System (PNTS). partners, andSpanish inactive Traces members and Manager, Dennis Ditmanson, Check this out in, at least, two whenever possible. I try to solicit and the OSTA Board (including websites: www.oldspanishtrail. articles for myself) to agree that we will org and www.pnts.org. continually encourage participa- spend the next 12 to 15 months tion at OSTA board meetings, seriously thinking about how • ENHANCE our non-profit annual membership meeting, we as individuals and as a non- volunteer organization’s capacity and conferences and workshops profit volunteer organization can to recruit, train, and supervise of related, or like-minded non- move the Association forward by becoming involved. OSTA profit volunteer organizations.Span- I significantly. members are joining thousands ishhave Traces; the privilege of sometimes of other volunteers (19 national reviewing articles for historic trails, 11 national sce- editing assorted nic trails) to form a “nationwide minutes; replying to email or Possible goals: network of community-based phone questions relating to the • INCREASE Chapter Mem- natural and cultural resource Association or the Old Spanish bership by ? Active members stewards” that in one2010 million and 2011 Trail; providing addresses and of an OSTA chapter can lead the volunteerinvested in hours!the National Trails phone numbers; writing thank chapter in this effort and help set System well over you letters and letters of sup- the numerical figure; OR maybe port in stewardship matters; there is an interest in starting a and passing along to appropri- new chapter. Contact the Asso- As OSTA president, I serve, also, ate others assorted threatening information to the ciation Manager and your state as. liaison to the Partnership and Trailabout upcoming, interesting, or director for information and as- participate in: sometimes sistance in getting started. the annual “Hike the Hill” projects, and accomplish- . trek in February to Washing- ments of OSTA chapters, mem- • EXPEND OSTA Resources ton, DC; bers, board. The motto of my with one, two, three or more 4 the monthlySpanish andTraces quarterly 2009-2013 presidency seemsSpring to2012 PROJECTS that are not ho-hum : Participation, Chapter Reports Participation, Participation! be evolving into William Workman Chapter, Salida Del Sol Chapter Penrith, Cumbria, England In February, Pat Kuhlhoff and

Mark Henderson, chapter officers, I appreciate the privilege of All members received and enjoyed and Susan Boyle from the NPS serving the Association and the the most recent issue of Spanish made an overnight trip to Aztec, National Trails System in helping Traces ( Winter 2011 ). We are NM and the Glade Run Recre- identify, preserve, protect, and pleased to confirm that our Chapter ation Area managed by the BLM. enjoy an irreplaceable National will definitely be represented at We met on site with folks from Treasure,Spanish the historic Traces Old Span- the Annual OSTA Conference in the BLM, State Office of Public ish Trail. Many personal thanks Richfield, Utah (June 14-17). Front Lands, and two local resident to YOU— read- runners in the booking stakes are mountain bikers. The BLM had ers—for all you do for the same Chapter President Bill Ramsay and published a letter of intent to purpose. Secretary David Fallowfield who Reba Wells Grandrud modify their management plan and have flights booked and paid for, we wanted to make sure that the flying in to Las Vegas and then OST would be acknowledged and driving north to Richfield. Any protected. They gave us 30 days to other members who follow the lead provide input to them. With a great and make plans to attend will be a BLM Announces New deal of effort by Susan, Mark, and bonus. AZ and NM Directors Pat, the job was accomplished and now we are waiting to see the plan As always, Ramsay and Fallow- as it comes from the BLM. Raymond Suazo has been selected field have plans for post confer- as the State Director in Arizona. ence sight-seeing and intend The guest speaker at our meeting He served as Arizona’s acting State driving up into Wyoming to pick February 18 was Susan Calafate Director and held the Associate up the Oregon Trail and navigate Boyle from the NPS. She spoke on State Director position since Janu- South Pass before turning north Commerce on the trails during the ary 2010. He replaces Jim Kenna, to follow the Wind River, eventu- Spanish and Mexican time period. who was appointed BLM Califor- ally crossing Togwotee Pass and It was an excellent talk. Our an- nia State Director earlier in 2011. down to Jackson Hole and from nual meeting will be held on April there driving thru Idaho and Ne- 21 in Espanola, NM. Jesse Juen, Associate New Mexico vada to finally reach Sacramento. State Director, has been named as Fallowfield is currently doing a On April 27 and 28 a New Mexico State Director for the more than series of talks around the county Trail Stewardship Workshop spon- 13.4 million acres of public lands on the Workman brothers (David sored by the SDS Chapter will be and 26 million acres of federal oil, & William) and the first two have held in Taos. Anyone wishing to natural gas, and minerals where been well received. Three more, attend should call Pat Kuhlhoff, about 855 employees work in New in the south, north and west are 505-466-4877 in Santa Fe or Mark Mexico, Texas, Oklahoma, and planned for the near future. Mem- Henderson, 575-758-3192 for Kansas. Juen replaces Linda Run- bers of the Chapter are continually more information and registration. dell, who recently retired. Juen has on the lookout for new members served as Associate State Director and this is our main focus for the We are looking forward to some in New Mexico since 2003.♦ foreseeable future. ♦ warm weather field trips in northern NM this spring and summer. ♦

Spring 2012 Spanish Traces 5 Manager Musings represented and I had the opportu- ing of the Sierra Club Desert and nity to meet with the group. Some Wilderness Committees to make a good ideas were generated for presentation on a threat to the Trail by Dennis Ditmanson growth of the chapter. The trip also posed by the proposed Hidden Association Manager afforded the opportunity to make Hills Solar Development Project. contact with several potential part- The presentation was very pro- ners, i.e., visitor centers, museums, fessional and was well-received. and chambers of commerce and As a follow up, Jack and chapter to visit current Trail Host partici- member Scott Smith prepared an pants. article which appeared on the front page of the “Desert Report”, the In February I embarked on a newsletter of the Desert Commit- marathon trip to Arizona, Nevada, tee. Following the meeting Jack and California, meeting with the and Barbara Milliken led a small Armijo, Red Pueblo, Nevada, and group to sites on the Trail route. Tecopa chapters. In addition to The work being done by this small acquainting myself with the work group of people is astonishing – a being done by these chapters I real David and Goliath story – also wanted bring to their attention when you consider the challenge the various funding possibilities of taking on these huge corpora- available for project work. In all tions as well as the California cases there was enthusiasm for Energy Commission. new projects and already several “On the Road Again” proposals have come forward. I Exciting things are happening in also wanted to get a feel for trail Barstow with the development of The Old Spanish Trail Associa- resources on-the-ground and that new exhibits at the Desert Discov- tion is alive and well at the chapter certainly happened. ery which will include an outdoor level – at least with those chap- representation of the Trail some ters I was privileged to visit this In Las Vegas, Nevada Director Liz 100 feet long. Visitors will be able Spring. In January, Secretary of the Warren took time from her busy to “walk” the trail and learn as Interior Kenneth Salazar convened schedule to show me Trail sites they go. Jane Laraman and David a meeting in the San Luis Valley in at the Old Mormon Fort, the Las Brockhurst are working closely Colorado to announce several ini- Vegas Springs, and the Old Span- with the local BLM office as well tiatives for the region. The actions ish Trail Park. I was particularly as representatives from the NPS would be a part of his America’s impressed with the latter which is Mojave Preserve to complete this Great Outdoors Initiative and fell set immediately on the route of the project. At nearby Ft. Irwin, OSTA into three broad categories: the Trail and which mixes a family- member Sam Hunter has made results of a natural and cultural friendly recreational activity with great strides in working with Post reconnaissance survey of the San a well-designed set of interpretive officials to recognize the value of Luis Valley and central Sangre de exhibits. It provides a great oppor- Trail resources on the Post and Cristo Mountains; the potential for tunity to bring Trail history to an is preparing a commemorative a system of trails in the San Luis audience that might not otherwise plaque for placement in a promi- Valley; and a discussion of the know of this story. nent location in the Town Center. possibilities for landscape scale conservation in the valley. Our La In Tecopa, Chapter President Jack I met California Director Alex Vereda del Norte chapter was well Prichett took advantage of a meet- King in the San Bernardino/Colton

6 Spanish Traces Spring 2012 area for a look at the challenges Tecopa Chapter Active • Became an “Intervener” of telling the Trail story in this in the state of California’s most urban of settings but was on the Trail and Off hearings on whether or not to encouraged by the possibilities that license the Hidden Hills solar by Jack Prichett exist. There are real resources to plant. be utilized: the Trujillo adobe, the The Tecopa Chapter has continued Agua Mansa Cemetery, and the • Participated in the annual to find and record sections of the site of the San Salvador de Jurupa winter meeting of the Sierra Old Spanish Trail in the Califor- Chapel. Alex has prepared an ex- Club’s joint California- nia Mojave, near the Nevada state tensive list of possible marker and Nevada Desert Committee. line. All told, the chapter’s trail exhibit sites, a document outlining Chapter president Jack committee has recorded about 15 the various exhibit types available, Prichett delivered a 20-minute kilometers (more than nine miles) and several project requests. PowerPoint presentation on the of mule caravan trace, leading to Tecopa chapter’s trail work and and from Resting Springs. Resting All these activities offer exciting the threat posed by the Hidden Springs was a major stop on the evidence that the Association is Hills solar plant. trail, recorded by John C. Frémont, making an impact where it counts, among others. on the ground with Trail resources. • Published an article on the My thanks to Ray Lara, Suzie Off, Old Spanish Trail near Tecopa. Portions of the mule trace near the Lorrie Crawford, Paul Ostapuk, The article appeared in the Nevada border almost certainly Ashley Hall & Liz Warren, Jack Sierra Club’s Desert Report. It cross the site of a large, proposed Prichett & Barbara Milliken and may be found online at www. solar energy plant. The Hidden all the folks at the Tecopa chapter, desertreport.org. ♦ Hills plant would directly impact Jane Laraman & Tom Brockhurst, portions of the trail on its property. Amy Oechsner, Sam Hunter, and Indirect impacts include impair- Alex King, for making my trip ment of the nearly pristine des- interesting and entertaining as well ertscape and the ability for visitors as educational. ♦ to vicariously experience the trail LA Heritage Day 2012 as it was some 170 to 180 years Dennis Ditmanson Scheduled for April 29 ago. This annual one-day event In efforts to protect the Old Span- gathers together over 200 heritage OSTA Poster Available ish Trail, the chapter has taken the organizations from across Los following actions: Angeles. This year, it will take The OSTA 19" x 27" poster • Sponsored an OSTA place on Sunday, April 29th from map is available through OSTA “Trail Alert” meeting near 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. in downtown retail sales and online at www. Los Angeles to call attention Los Angeles at the historic Pico oldspanishtrail.org. Individuals can to the issue of desert-based House on Los Angeles Plaza purchase the poster for $10.00 (+ solar and wind plants and their (part of El Pueblo de Los Angeles $4 for postage and a mailing tube). potential impacts to cultural Historic Monument) near Olvera Retail sales outlets can purchase and biological resources. The Street. The Old Spanish Trail this poster for $6.00 each with a January 21 event attracted 16 will be represented at the event. minimum of 10 posters. OSTA will OSTA members and a list of For details, see http://laheritage. cover shipping expense for bulk follow-up actions. blogspot.com/2012. orders.

Spring 2012 Spanish Traces 7 The Man From Abiquiu Rusty Rifle Barrel by Bob Leonard Found in Salina Canyon, Utah Had you been wandering the hills of central Utah 175 years ago and by Bob Leonard encountered this weather-beaten man with brown, leathery skin you Lyle Anderson, an old-time Utah might have mistakenly identified cowboy and cattle permittee on the him as Jedediah Smith on his 1826 Fishlake NF, found a rifle barrel journey to California. Stocky and sticking out of the ground near determined, the man certainly had Skutumpah Reservoir four miles to be the legendary mountain man north of Salina Canyon and the except. . . . well, except for those Old Spanish Trail. Following the damned pack animals. They had Salina Creek drainage south and big ears but they weren’t mules west from the reservoir, the creek and looked more like miniature is fed by a tributary called Niotche versions of Egyptian camels. The Creek. It is at this confluence that presence of the Loch Expedition the Main Branch, according to was soon spread throughout the Cedar City, Utah. Next spring, he Federal trail managers, splits into countryside not by signal fires but will start from southwestern Utah, two routes which rejoin 20 miles by a Facebook notification from walking through Nevada, Arizona, west in the Sevier River Valley. Castle Valley explorer Wade Al- and California on his way to the The confluence may well have linson who had serendipitously San Gabriel area. been a major campsite on the encountered Loch near SR-10. trail because the canyon widens After some effort, I found the party While I was visiting with Loch, considerably and the area could rounding a corner in Annabella, the weather turned bad, and have provided forage and water to Utah. crossing the pass in the Antelope mule trains and caravans. Mountains, he came to stay with Halting his “train,” led by a shaggy my wife and me in Marysvale, The rifle remnant, which is a sheep dog named McDuff, this which is also along the trail. He “Hawkens-like” .50 caliber heavy cordial fellow introduced himself told us that, where possible, he octagon barrel with a powder drum as Loch Wade of Boulder, Utah. would look for and travel on actual and nipple, was photographed and The mini-camels were actually sections of the trail. He described jpegs were sent to Will Gorges of llamas, named Jasper and Chelsey, a spring in Castle Valley whose JustAnswer.com, David Ripplinger and his party of four was making presence was announced by stacks of Track of the Wolf, Inc., Gail their way along the Old Spanish of large black rocks. The trail can DeBuse Potter of the Museum Trail. Loch is the water master in be identified by swales, which are of the Fur Trade, Rhoda Brewer Boulder and has had to divide his obvious, and by changes in the of Bent’s Old Fort (NHS), and journey over three seasons. He be- vegetation, which are more subtle. Charles Haecker (Intermountain gan his trip in 2011 from Abiquiu, Next spring, if you happen to see Region, NPS). Their responses New Mexico and made his way a couple of packed-up llamas, a were variable but all provided one along the trail into southeastern shaggy dog and a mountain man, common observation: the barrel Utah. Beginning in early Febru- stop and say hello. ♦ had been converted from flintlock ary of this year, he started from to percussion. Moab with a goal of reaching the Mountain Meadows area west of Basically, tens of thousands of 8 Spanish Traces Spring 2012 civilian firearms were converted than 1860. Japanese rifle that my dad picked from flintlock to the percussion up on Guadacanal in 1943. ignition system between the So, what does all of this mean? early 1830s and 1850s although The scenarios are numerous and What’s more, we have no clue who the military did not begin their fascinating. The 1835 rendezvous made the original flintlock. Jake conversions until the 1840s. The was held at Fort Bonneville in and Sam Hawken were building Salina Creek barrel is a civilian Wyoming. We know people were rifles beginning in the 1820s. conversion. From the diary of trapping the creeks and streams Some of their guns are marked Nathaniel Wyeth, the founder of of Utah all the way back to Jed and some are not. By the 1830s, Fort Hall, he states on December 9, Smith (1826). Maybe a trapper hundreds of businesses were 1835, that “during this time [on the lost it or met some untimely making firearms. The Salina Creek Columbia River] we percussioned demise. Even though Lt. George barrel is badly rusted and we can 3 Rifles our powder being so badly Brewerton of the Carson Party delineate no maker marks. Like damaged as to render flint locks remarked on how poorly an 1848 many of the “Plains” rifle built useless.” Charlie Haecker, of the caravan was armed, is it possible by J & S Hawken, it is 33” long, National Park Service, suggests that a company hunter camped fits one of their calibers (.45 to a possible date of 1834-1850 for at the fork of the Salina-Niotche .62), and is very heavy. Unlike a the Salina Creek barrel while creeks lost the firearm? Or could Hawken firearm, it is 1 1/8” wide Will Gorges, a firearms historian, it have belonged to an 1880s at the muzzle. Hawken barrels suggests 1850-1870. Considering settler from nearby Emery County tapered from 1 1/8” at the breech the Wyeth diary and the advent of who had inherited the gun from to 1” at the muzzle. Thompson the American Civil War, I would a relative who came west with Center reproductions are lighter at guess conversion took place the Mormon handcarts? I own a 7/8” width at the muzzle. between 1834-1850 but earlier highly modified Ariska Model 99 Continued on page 10

Figure 1: Modern T/C Hawken half-stock rifle barrel on top. The lower barrel is an historic caplock conversion with fixed dove tail and blade sights and Figure 2: Breech of rifle a tang (wedge mount missing) barrel showing the tang, which held it to the stock. powder drum and nipple.

Spring 2012 Spanish Traces 9 Rifle, continued from previous page Some Insights into the Fish Lake Cut-Off So why get excited about a rusty by Edward Leo Lyman ed over the trail annually by the old artifact? Obviously any ties and Robert Leonard thousands, up to perhaps 30,000 in to the fur trapping period or the eighteen-year period of trade, the Old Spanish Trail are just The Old Spanish Trail, a pack left remnant swale-ruts on the circumstantial. But in combination mule route from Santa Fe, New mountain slope south of the east with other clues, for example Mexico to Los Angeles, California, end of Red Creek-Salina Canyon historic reports, strange epigraphs served as a vital segment of the that experts have correctly argued carved into boulders, or trailside first travel and trade route from the to be visible evidence of this im- cairns and swales, circumstances Pacific Coast by continuing on the portant road, even though not used can build, quantify, and thus adjacent link of the Santa Fe Trail as such in over 150 years. creating a degree of credibility to St. Joseph, Missouri, then on the in the process. Until someone western-most edge of the United After Franciscan fathers, Ata- smarter comes along with better States, during the main period of nasio Domínguez and Sylvestre information and technology, the its use (1829-1848). Escalante, first explored a variant old rifle barrel will be on display of the eastern segment of the Old In the past four years, much new at the Fremont Indian State Park Spanish Trail in 1776, Jedediah S. information has been discovered overlooking Jed Smith’s 1826 trace Smith and his fur trapping brigade about an important variation-return through Clear Creek Canyon.♦ did similar trail blazing from the route, the Fish Lake Cut-off, which eastern end of the Red Creek-Sa- aimed to take advantage of better OST in High lina Canyon passageway through forage and a shorter distance in the the Wasatch Mountains all the way Country News summer months when the snow to Needles on the lower Colorado was gone from the high mountains River of California, over half the The March 19 issue of High of present central Utah. trail’s total distance in 1826. Just Country News featured the Old three years later, Antonio Armijo, a The annual national conference Spanish Trail and the work of New Mexican trader with men and of the Old Spanish Trail Associa- Alpine Archeology, written by pack mules followed the Domí- tionto be held at Richfield, Utah Jeremy Miller. Read it at www.hcn. guez-Escalante return route from on June 14 and 15, 2012 will focus org/issues/44.5/following-the-old- present southern Utah to Santa particular attention on this impor- spanish-trail-across-the-southwest. Fe (going the opposite direction), tant historical “artifact-in-place.” crossing the Colorado where the Guided tours to several segments There are also a couple of padres did (now under Lake Pow- of this route will be available. articles on the subject of energy ell), then following close to the This segment of the trail has not development on public lands, present Arizona-Utah border. They yet been recognized by Congress which was the subject of much thereafter blazed a new trail more as part of the national historic discussion at the recent Board directly to California by traveling trail. Congressional recogni- meeting: "The federal energy past Las Vegas Wash to the Mojave tion will take more documenta- two-step" and "The BLM River, instead of following the dif- tion demonstrating use as a trade struggles to get ahead of oil and ficult Colorado River course south- route, although the ruts are quite gas development in the West." ward as Jed Smith had done. They an eloquent testament to such use The latter echoes the comments sold their manufactured goods, in driving trade animals along its of Aaron Mahr who described his including New Mexico woolens at course. office as being smothered by the good profits. Two small portions of crush of projects needing review These high-demand animals herd- the Armijo company then headed and comment. home immediately, but more than

10 Spanish Traces Spring 2012 a third stayed longer. over the trail. Even if the average through the ridge spine by divid- number of horses and mules each ing it into smaller units in Sheep This latter group, led by Armijo, trader secured was only ten head, Valley and regrouping the herd gathered a considerable number which might be a low estimate, again at the bottom of Red Creek of horses and mules, purchased at that would be over 1200 driven Canyon. low prices, to herd back over the back toward New Mexico that return trail. It took them 56 days year. In the spring of 1848, the last year to make their way to Santa Fe. But of regular use of the entire Old finding welcome markets for their In the summer of 1841, Francisco Spanish Trail, twenty-year-old new livestock there, they fully Estevan Vigil, a regular entrepre- Army Lieutenant George D. Brew- inaugurated the trail as a profit- neur-organizer of many of these erton accompanied a Kit Carson- able trade route in both directions, expeditions who often assembled led party from California eastward utilized every year thereafter until large numbers of horses and mules over the route. They started too Mexico lost the huge region (the at Los Angeles, started a huge herd late to avoid the inconvenience Mexican Cession) to the United of 4,141 legally-cleared animals of the large Mexican caravan of States in 1848. out through Cajon Pass, the largest a thousand head of animals mov- animal herd ever known to have ing toward New Mexico with over LeRoy R. Hafen and Ann W. Hafen, Old traversed the entire trail. two hundred persons dressed “in Spanish Trail, Santa Fé to Los Ange- every variety of costume, from the les: With Extracts from Contemporary Hafen and Hafen, Old Spanish Trail, 185- Records and Including Diaries of Antonio embroidered jacket of the wealthy Armijo and Orville Pratt (Glendale, Cali- 86, 244. Californian, with its silver bell- fornia: Arthur H. Clark Company, 1954, shaped buttons, to the scanty habil- One can imagine the deepening of reprint, paper, Lincoln, Nebraska: Univer- iments of the skin-clad Indian.” He sity of Nebraska Press, 1993), 169. the still-visible parallel ruts both added that the line of march of this sides of the ridge-saddle below strange cavalcade occupied an ex- Soon Missouri too became a major Hilgard Mountain from modern market for California mules and Sheep Valley where the trail starts horses. down the relatively steep slope with over 4,000 head The mainstay of the transporta- of unshod horses and mules tion system, both as carriers and choosing their alternative the chief return merchandise, was parallel courses downward the mule, which for Hispanic and toward the bottom and in- Anglo-Americans alike proved tersecting Ivie Creek to the better suited than horses or oxen canyon floor (now near Inter- for the formidable desert road- state 70). ways. The animals were more able to subsist on the inconstant Archeologically, the narrow and sometimes alkaline water and ridge spine above Red Creek equally scarce grass feed. Cer- is only 30-100 feet wide and tainly some years saw a greater does not suggest it could number of pack mules and return accommodate herds of this animals on the Old Spanish Trail. size. However, if they ar- In 1830, there were at least 125 rived at Sheep Valley Ridge New Mexican men known to be by the first week in June, engaged procuring livestock in perhaps the traders prepared southern California to take back for such a large herd passing

Spring 2012 Spanish Traces 11 tent of more than a mile. The army the icy water up to their knees in careful railroad survey. officer complained that the huge the creeks. The diarist recorded company “ate up or destroyed the “a slaughter of the finny tribe.” As the Beale group tended south grass and consumed the water at They took some trout with them by west, they crossed several the few camping grounds upon the when they departed next day. Their creeks in later western Emery route.” Fortunately they were able course for the next eight miles was County. Then after passing paral- to bypass this caravan after eight mainly upward to the still snow- lel to the hills for some distance, days travel, and the trail conditions bound and windswept ridge divid- they finally approached the gap of became better for his group. ing Sheep Valley from the Red a canyon, giving issue to a small Creek watershed on the southern stream, Red Creek, which they George R. Brewerton, Overland with Kit slope of the canyon, then another ascended several miles. On July 29 Carson: A Narrative of the Old Spanish they commenced to climb through Trail in ‘48 (New York: Coward-McCann, dozen miles northeast on a down- 1930, reprint, Lincoln: University of ward course toward the base of the the narrow Red Creek-Salina Can- Nebraska Press, 1993), 53-99. mountain. yon Heap called a gorge, which afforded the best passage through Later, in present south-central Brewerton, Overland with Kit Carson, the eastern branch of the Wasatch Utah, after crossing the western 110-12. Mountain Range, precisely where extension of the Wasatch Moun- Interstate 70 now begins the same tains and following down the Se- Much of the most detailed docu- grades in both directions. vier River some twenty miles, the mentation of the Old Spanish LeRoy R. Hafen and Ann W. Hafen, eds., expedition turned right up the East Trail, particularly in the area of the Fish Lake Cut-off comes from Central Route to the Pacific: With Related Fork of that stream to commence Material on Railroad Exploration and In- traveling over the shorter (when diarist-reporters accompanying the dian Affairs by Edward F. Beale, Thomas clear of snow) Fish Lake Cut-off. government-sponsored survey ex- H. Benton, Kit Carson, and Col. E. A. Thus they headed eastward about a peditions of Edward F. Beale and Hitchcock, and in other documents, 1853- 54, by Gwin Harris Heap, (Glendale, dozen miles then turned northward John W. Gunnison, assisted by his successor, E. G. Beckwith, both California: The Arthur H. Clark Com- near Otter Creek to traverse the pany, 1957) 214-15. See also Beckwith traveling west in the summer and thirty miles across Grass Valley note 15 herein. and commence climbing up five fall of 1853, technically five years miles of mountain slope toward after official discontinuance of the The significant recent rediscovery the always-scenic Fish Lake. Upon Old Spanish Trail as a trade route. of the visible remnants of the Fish arrival there, Brewerton noted the Edward Leo Lyman, The Overland Lake Cut-off segment of the Old friendliness of the local Ute Indi- Journey From Utah to California: Wagon Spanish Trail in central Utah com- ans and their willingness to trade Travel from the City of Saints to the City menced in the fall of 2008, when a for food in the form of bighorn of Angels (Reno: University of Nevada crew from the Fish Lake National sheep meat and, upon Carson’s Press, 2004), 44-70. Forest Service began looking for inquiry, trout, which the diarist traces of the Fish Lake Cut-off learned was then abundant in the As they approached the mountains, after Bureau of Land Management creeks adjacent to the lake. Beale’s cousin and diarist, Gwin archeologist, Chris Horting-Jones H. Heap, mentioned a long branch shared a startling archeological Brewerton soon noted “to our trail jutting north farther than the find with Robert Leonard, her hungry people this was more than one they were tracing through a counterpart archeologist at the good news; and that evening was relatively level valley. That alter- Fish Lake National Forest office devoted to the composition of a nate route was the one followed at Richfield. She had recorded a chowder, which was literally fish later in the year by Gunnison and series of swales within a verifiable ‘au naturel’.” By sunrise, many his men, who were driving teams Old Spanish Trail Fish Lake Cut- of the campers started wading in and wagons and making a more 12 Spanish Traces Spring 2012 off site east of Koosharem, Utah Old Testaments of the Old Spanish shifted to the northern terminus in the middle of a section that had Trail (meaning the history written of the Fish Lake Cut-off in Red been harrowed. by LeRoy R. Hafen and Ann W. Creek Canyon just south of Inter- Hafen); along with the detailed state 70 (milepost 85). This trail Leonard examined the trace of trail trail guidebook by Crampton and segment is situated at the 7,400 and became fascinated and excited Madsen. foot elevation level and consists of about the prospect of locating canyons separated by ridges dotted other such trail segments. What he LeRoy R. Hafen and Ann W. Hafen, Old with piñon and juniper trees. Red and his associates discovered over Spanish Trail: Santa Fé to Los Angeles (Glendale, California: Arthur H. Clark Creek Canyon includes a perennial the next two years was a dramatic Company, 1954, reprint paper, Lincoln: stream which flows into Ivie Creek series of intermittent swales and University of Nebraska Press, 1993). C. originating in the Castle Valley anomalous patches of vegetation Gregory Crampton and Steven K. Mad- country. Although the canyon’s within the corridor previously sen, In Search of the Spanish Trail, Santa north end borders Interstate 70, the Fe to Los Angeles, 1829-1848 (Salt Lake defined by trail historians, C. canyon mouth constitutes a 350 City: Gibbs-Smith Publisher, 1994). Gregory Crampton and Stephen K. foot wide gap, where a curtain of Madsen. The archeologist and his Much of the early efforts were cottonwood trees shields the sights main assistant in the quest, Lydia focused on the slopes of the Fish and sounds of the highway from Jakovac, visiting from Australia, Lake Plateau north of Grass Val- the trail. Once inside the canyon, studied and applied various diary ley, which surrounds Koosharem. the only reminders of the 20th and descriptions: Kit Carson’s travel When the identification of this trail 21st centuries are a dirt road, a companion, Lt. Brewerton in 1848; corridor was completed, it was ap- couple of fences and an occasional Heap, with Lt. Beale and Lt. Beck- parent that the historic swales were grazing cow. It is easy to imagine with; and Captain Gunnison, who in some cases impacted by harrow- what the place looked like during each offered specific observation- ing projects, livestock driveways, the 1830s and 40s. The landscape insights relevant to the Fish Lake historic travel to Fish Lake and has largely maintained its natural Cut-off. By applying these, Leon- even the skidding of logs. Howev- integrity. ard and his associates have gath- er, the irrefutable fact remains that ered more specific information on A more detailed description of the the corridor was delineated and these historic trail corridors than beginning of the cut-off vicinity intermittent swales were identified. was previously known. shows the Spanish Trail climb- The trail remnant search then ing southward out of Ivie Creek The approach to the survey was first an intuitive look at the Fish Lake Cut-off by simply following lineal trail segments, studying the historic documentation, scrutinizing satellite imagery, interviewing livestock special- ists, local residents and historians while paying close attention to what Leonard termed the New and

Fishlake Forest Archeologist, Bob Leonard, stands in one of the swales of the Old Spanish Trail at Red Creek, Fishlake NF.

Spring 2012 Spanish Traces 13 Canyon (where I-70 goes) to avoid Fish Lake Cut-off, “following the Cut-off becomes irrefutable. And the obstacle soon encountered, a stream passes over a higher eleva- the extant swale-ruts scattered near deep gully called Tommy Hollow, tion and soon [actually in some that spot become authentic evi- indicated as a formidable barrier seventy miles] rejoins the north- dences of the historic trail. Other for travelers, even with horses or ern branch, which though longer, trail segments are visible farther up mules, at least as early as the ac- crosses the mountains at a [rela- the Sevier River in Piute County counts of Beale and Beckwith. tively] low depression.” and into Garfield County, where the trail turns westward through William H. Goetzmann, Army Explora- Bear Valley into the Parowan area, tion in the American West, 1803-1863 Early in the project, Aaron Mahr, then west to the Escalante Valley (New Haven, Conn.: Yale University Trails Coordinator for the National Press, 1959, paper, 1965), 283-86. and south through the Mountain Park Service’s National Historic Meadows and on out of present Trails group which oversees the From either east or west direction, Utah by way of Utah Hill in the western states trails, visited the trail users were compelled to travel extreme southwestern corner of the area where the cut-off forks from around the head of this depression state. As more interest in the Old the main Old Spanish Trail at Red (meaning climbing up the semi- Spanish Trail has been generated Creek. Partly through the com- steep mountain slope - to where in recent years, more segments of ments of seasoned Forest Service the detour is mainly level and the route have been located and range and livestock experts, Vince easy traveling) for up to six miles studied. There is yet more research Pace and Fred Houston, he became around this heavily-eroded hollow. and tracing to be done, but the convinced of the authenticity of road course is already reasonably the swale-rut remnants visible in certain, including some to be seen Lt. Beckwith, the second in com- that vicinity. Mahr was impressed from satellite photos, which are mand with the ill-fated John W. with the number and integrity of remarkable for the trace swales, Gunnison expedition, followed this swales that measured from the disturbed slopes and eroded river same segment of trail. (Gunnison single width of a horse path to one crossings which are often easily and six of his men were killed by more heavily trampled segment up apparent to interested and careful Utes a hundred twenty miles west to 15 feet wide and five feet deep modern observer-explorers. ♦ of Fremont Junction. See Edward which demonstrated no evidence Leo Lyman and Linda King New- of erosion other than wind blow- ell, A History of Millard County ing loosened sand and dirt away (Salt Lake City: Utah State His- from the deepening trail ruts. After torical Society, 1999), 68-71.) his examination of these literal “artifacts-in-place,” the National Learn more about Park Service Trail Coordinator Fish Lake Beckwith stated, “this gorge [Ivie suggested that Leonard and his as- at the Creek Canyon] is cut into deep sociates submit a National Historic gullies by streams which pour Register nomination to be a part of 2012 Conference down from the mountains dur- the Old Spanish National Historic on ing storms, which gave us labor Trail, which has since been done. to cross; and a small stream [Red June 14-17 Creek] coming in from the south in detained us a short time. But after With the precise documentation following it for two and a half offered by Beckwith and Heap, Richfield, Utah miles, the Spanish trail branches.” the location and existence of the Here the southern branch, the northern terminus of the Fish Lake

14 Spanish Traces Spring 2012 Book Review: Pio Pico: The Last Governor of as a shrewd or savvy politician, Salomon reminds us that Pico’s Mexican California, by Carlos Manuel Salomon political life lasted only19 years out of his 93-year life-span. Pico by Rita Vega-Acevedo, of historic sites, adobes, trails, and spent the remainder of his life President, Genealogical Society of parks. The California human land- consolidating his wealth, fighting Hispanic America, So CA Chapter scape described by Salomon shows in the courts to preserve his lands, race taking a back seat to indi- learning to navigate the American The name of Pio Pico, the last vidual prosperity due to isolation system, seeking new business op- Mexican governor of California, and lax enforcement by far-flung portunities in oil and real estate, surfaced in the news in March administrators. and even building the elegant and 2012 as state officials announced extant Pico House Hotel in El closing the Pio Pico State Park Salomon credits the 1775 Juan Pueblo (downtown Los Angeles). in Whittier, California. The park Bautista de Anza Expedition as may close as early as July due to pivotal for bringing Santiago de la Salomon divides his book into sec- California’s financial crisis. Pico Cruz Pico, grandfather of Pio Pico, tions beginning with the awaken- died 117 years ago. Pico lived to to Alta California. Santiago, a sol- ing of Pico as a leader of Southern the age of 93. He outlived other dier from Sinaloa, settled in Alta California inhabitants who act prominent Californios, including California and encouraged his son in response to poor or punitive his wife, some of his children, and Jose Maria to advance via a mili- policies dictated from Mexico even his nemesis Bernard Cohn. tary career. Jose Maria became a City and in response to a series of Many hold Cohn, a businessman, soldier at San Gabriel Mission. In appointed governors assigned to responsible for fraudulently taking 1801, Pio Pico was born to Maria Alta, California. Pico hones his Pico’s last remaining property, El Jacinta Vastida, a mulatta, and Jose political skills and courage as a Ranchito, once part of a large land Maria, a mestizo. The San Gabriel member of the newly-formed town grant in Whittier. Mission became a crucial stopping councils (ayuntamientos) and later point and supply station not only in the diputaciones which serve as With the publication of Pio Pico to the Anza Expedition but to trad- territorial houses of power. Addi- the Last Governor of Mexican ers who used the Old Spanish Trail tionally, Pico becomes governor of California in 2010, author Carlos from New Mexico to California California on two separate occa- Manuel Salomon deserves acco- from 1829-1848. sions. lades for his ambitious undertak- ing of this epic story. Pico loomed After the death of Pico’s father Carlos Salomon uses an even- large as a bombastic Californio Jose Maria in 1819, the family handed brush as he analyzes Pico’s who shaped policies, secular- moved to San Diego and it became controversial and, by some detrac- ized and sold mission proper- an important base for the family. tors, shameful involvement in the ties, distributed large land grants Pico worked to support his mother secularization and sale and lease and fought against the American and siblings as a small business of mission lands and inventories. takeover of California during the entrepreneur. Salomon notes that Californios who espouse liberal Mexican and American War of while Pico became known as a ideas coming from Mexican think- 1846. politician in Los Angeles, his ers are blamed for the destruction financial wealth was acquired in of the missions and the Franciscan Salomon’s book is timely and im- San Diego through his land grants, system. While Native Americans portant as California grapples with Rancho Jamul and Rancho Santa benefited on paper, Salomon de- the contemporary issues of im- Margarita y Las Flores. scribes most Native Americans as migration, relations with Mexico, remaining poor, disenfranchised, urban sprawl and the preservation While some people view Pico Spring 2012 Spanish Traces 15 or forced to work for wealthy Jefferson Hunt on the Old Spanish Trail 1847-1848 Californios. Pio Pico, as governor, parcels out former mission lands by Tom Sutak arriving there on October 11, to prominent families, friends, and 1847. Brigham Young’s Pioneer business associates. The process During the Mexican War, Company had arrived in Salt Lake is accelerated as news of an im- Jefferson Hunt served as captain Valley in late July and by the time minent American invasion ap- of Company A of the Mormon Hunt arrived several thousand proaches. Battalion. In 1847 while stationed other Mormons had arrived and at Los Angeles, he visited Isaac were in the process of establishing The author illustrates cracks in Williams’ Rancho del Chino a new city and preparing the the foundation of the Californio where he became familiar with fields for planting. Those who had power structure not only with Williams and the productivity of assembled there had barely enough slow-responding leaders thousands the California ranchos. In 1849, food to supply themselves for the of miles away, but in the rift be- he was the guide for the wagon coming winter, and they would tween Californios in the north and train from which the Death Valley also need to plant enough crops south, beginning in the 1820s. The ‘49ers separated. In 1851, Hunt to supply themselves and future competition for power and control returned to California as part of arrivals through the following over the custom house and treasury Brigham Young’s colonization of year. It soon became clear that they and land grants creates division the San Bernardino community. needed additional seeds, cuttings, as Americans prepare to invade During this time, Hunt served and livestock to ensure their California. While a temporary five terms as a member of the future. truce is implemented, particularly California State Assembly and between Pio Pico and Jose Castro, introduced the legislation that Before Brigham Young left Salt a northern military commander created San Bernardino County. Lake to return to Winter Quarters from the north, it is too little and (Omaha) he appointed a High too late. Californios are militarily This article describes Jefferson Council in charge of the settle- and numerically outnumbered for Hunt’s 1847-48 pack trip between ment. On November 13, Hunt met an American attack. Salt Lake and Chino for supplies. with the High Council and “stated Following his discharge from his reasons for wishing to go to The focus of the book is on South- the Mormon Battalion in July California with a small company ern California. Readers interested 1847, Hunt traveled to Salt Lake, of men. Leave was granted him to in a deeper northern California go, and the clerk ordered to draft perspective will need to look an epistle to send to the brethren elsewhere. The great strength of in California” (Journal History of this book is Salomon’s fine and Pio Pico continued the Church, November 13, 1847). thorough research of the extensive business corruption and greed. Three reasons for the trip were legal cases involving Pico and discussed: the need for crop seeds adversaries after the American oc- Pio Pico, imperfect and perplexing, and livestock; the issue of possibly cupation. These cases not only re- remains a symbol of cultural pride, reenlisting a new Mormon Battal- sulted in the loss of Pico’s fortune, resilience, and self determination. ion for the Army; and the need to especially because of costly legal The legacy of Pico continues to communicate with those Mormons fees, but demonstrate the ferocity survive as a new generation of still located on the Pacific Coast. of a fighter who can not be tamed. Californians recognizes the value The trip was approved, a letter was Salomon concludes that Pico’s of preserving the remaining trails drafted to those Mormons living in demise is a combination of poor and building blocks of the original California, and preparations began. judgment along with judicial and mosaic we call California.♦ Three men, including the infamous Continued on page 21 16 Spanish Traces Spring 2012 The Old Spanish Trail Association’s 2012 Conference “The Old Spanish Trail in Utah” June 14 - 17, 2012

Location: The Sevier Valley Center, Richfield, UT (on the Snow College campus).

Accommodations when staying for the Conference: There are numerous hotels, motels and a campground in Richfield, and some in neighboring towns. Scenic Fish Lake, a 45-minute drive, also has three resorts with cabins and campgrounds within the Fishlake National Forest.

In this Package: This registration package includes an advance copy of the program of speakers and events, plus a mail-in registration form, or entire registration may be done on line.

Registration Deadlines: All mail-in registrations must be received by June 1, 2012; online registration deadline is June 8, 2012. Walk-in registrations will be taken at the conference site on June 15 and16 (but not on June17)

Friday dinner: an authentic Dutch Oven Trail period dinner, served at the Lions Park, Richfield (this is early, so go easy at lunch). Feast beneath the Utah sky. Watch living history actors, weaving and mule packing demonstrations (hopefully Native American powwow and mountain man rendezvous), $10 per person, with advance registration (cannot guarantee dinners later).

Saturday night dinner: Frontier Village (North Main Street, near exit 40 from the I70) and presentation by composers of the Old Spanish Trail symphony, including music.

PLEASE NOTE: IMPORTANT REMINDERS The following are available only to those who have registered and paid in advance: Thursday, June 14 opening night reception at Fish Lake Lodge (no charge), Friday, June 15 evening Dutch oven at Lions Park and Saturday, June 16 Frontier Village dinner. Depending on the number of participants, the June 14 and 17 field tours may be restricted to those who have registered in advance.

Online registration details can be found at: www.oldspanishtrail.org

Registering by mail? Mail to: Send the registration form on the next page. OSTA Conference Lydia Jakovac Make checks payable to OSTA. 115E 900N Richfield, UT 84701

Spring 2012 Spanish Traces 17 Old Spanish Trail Association 2012 Conference Registration Form

Name(s): ______

Address: ______

E-mail address: ______Tel. No: ______

Conference Events & Fees: Member(s), all days ____ persons @ $40.00 = $ ______Member(s), June 15 only ____ persons @ $20.00 = $ ______Member(s), June 16 only ____ persons @ $20.00 = $ ______New Member Dues: Special Conference Rate ____ Membership Dues = $ ______* Individual: $20/yr; Family: $30/yr (must pay member conference fee)

Non-member(s), all days (students 50%) ____ persons @ $50.00 = $ ______Non-member(s), June 15 only (students 50%) ____ persons @ $25.00 = $ ______Non-member(s), June 16 only (students 50%) ____ persons @ $25.00 = $ ______

Thursday, June 14, 4:00 - 7:00 PM Opening reception at Fish Lake Lodge ____ persons (free to conference registrants)

Friday, June 15, 4:00 - 7:00 PM Dutch Oven dinner & events, Richfield Lions Park ____ persons @ $10.00 = $ ______

Friday, June 15, 8:00 PM (free to conference registrants) ____ persons Merrill Osmond concert, Sevier Valley Center ____ persons @ $12.00 = $ ______

Saturday, June 16, 6:00 PM ____ persons @ $12.00 = $ ______DINNER at Frontier Village, ALONG WITH COMPOSERS OF OLD SPANISH TRAIL SYMPHONY PRESENTATION, INCLUDING MUSIC

Thursday, June 14 Tours (all tours are free to conference registrants) Tour 1: Fish Lake Cut-off and Old Spanish Trail ____ persons Tour 2: OST - Green River ____ persons

Sunday, June 17, 10:00 AM (all tours are free to conference registrants) Tour 3: Fish Lake Cut-off and Old Spanish Trail, led by Bob Leonard ____ persons Tour 4: OST – Central to Parowan ____ persons

TOTAL FEES……………….$ ______

Make checks payable to OSTA. Mail to: OSTA Conference Lydia Jakovac, 115E 900N, Richfield, UT 84701.

Contacts: Lydia Jakovac (435) 896-1062, email: [email protected] Or Dave Ogden (435) 979-6423 email: [email protected]

18 Spanish Traces Spring 2012 Conference Outline Thursday, June 14 9:00 - 4:00 PM OSTA Board Meeting. Fish Lake Lodge, Fish Lake, HWY 25.

10:00 - 5:00 PM Tour 1: Forest archeologist Bob Leonard will lead a tour from Red Creek (also adjacent Interstate 70) up the adjacent mountain slope to the most dramatic remnants of the Fish Lake Cut-off, in the form of deep ruts caused by horse and mule hooves. Hiking up and down hills, total hiking about 1.5 miles. This tour will be repeated on Sunday June 17.

9:00 - 5:00 PM Tour 2: Col. Al Matheson will meet a group in Green River, UT, and conduct them over portions of the Old Spanish Trail through Emery County toward the trail entrance into the mountains and the Fish Lake Cut-off (near Interstate 70). Total hiking of about a half mile.

4:00 – 7:00 PM Opening Reception at the Fish Lake Lodge, Conference registrants only.

Friday, June 15 and Saturday, June 16: Speakers • Greeting and opening remarks by the OSTA board members and federal agency sponsors, including a program on cultural resource management and protection. • Plenary session talk by Dr. Joseph Sanchez, perhaps revising some details on the Domínguez-Escalante initial blazing of the first segment of the Old Spanish Trail. • Break-out sessions on a great variety of treatments of Spanish Trail portions mainly in Utah, their history, geography and still-visible features. • The Fish Lake Cut-off, by its rediscoverer, Fishlake National Forest archeologist, Bob Leonard, and assistant Lydia Jakovac. • Biographical papers on such other trail explorers as Antonio Armijo, Jedediah Smith, William Wolfskill, William Workman, and sketches of the work of Army Corps of Topographical Engineer surveys in the decade after the commerce trail closed in 1848, by John W. Gunnison, Edward F. Beale, John C. Frémont, and John N. Macomb. • Sharing of experiences by modern travelers exploring and tracing the trail. • Reports of detailed studies of such segments as those in Emery County (ap- proaching the Fish Lake Cut-off). • Important segments (and frequently threatened by gas and power line con- struction) in Holt Canyon and Mountain Meadows farther southwest. • The trail slave trade, primarily capturing Paiute women and children to sell in New Mexico, will be discussed by Sondra Jones, a longtime scholar on that subject. • Dr. Lyman Platt will probe into possible Jesuit missionary stations in what was later Utah in the early 1700s. OVER TWO DOZEN SESSIONS IN ALL, DE- TAILS IN PROGRAM.

Spring 2012 Spanish Traces 19 Sunday, June 17: Tours. You must sign up for tours when you register for the conference. 10:00 – 1:00 PM Tour 3: Fishlake NF, archeologist Bob Leonard and historian Wade Allinson will lead two groups from Red Creek (adjacent I70) up the adjacent mountain slope to the most dramatic remnants of the Fish Lake Cut-off, in the form of deep ruts caused by horse and mule hooves. Hiking up and down hills, total hiking about 1.5 miles. This is a repeat of tour 1. 9:00 - 1:00 PM Tour 4: Steven Heath will lead a tour from Central, Sevier County (near Rich- field) along the East Fork of the Sevier River, up the main branch of the Sevier to Circleville, Piute County, then through the mountains into the Parowan-Par- agonah area (on I15). Total hiking about a half mile.

LODGING / RV PARKS IN SEVIER COUNTY, RICHFIELD Appletree Inn 145 South Main (435) 896-5481 Budget Host / Nights Inn 69 South Main (435) 896-8228 Comfort Inn 1150 West 1250 South (435) 893-0119 Days Inn 333 North Main (435) 896-6476 Fairfield Inn 990 W. 1350 S. (435) 896-9191 Hampton Inn 1100 West 1350 South (435) 896-6666 Make your reservations early because Best Western 1335 North Main (435) 893-0100 there will be a large Little League New West Motel 447South Main (435) 896-4076 tournament in town during the OSTA Quality Inn 540 South Main (435) 896-5465 conference. The lodging listed under Richfield KOA 600 W 590 S (435) 896-6674 “Other” is not in Richfield, but in Richfield RV Park 745 S Main (435) 896 9340 nearby areas. Richfield Travelodge 647 South Main (435) 896-9271 Romanico Inn 1170 South Cove View Rd (435) 896-8471 Super 8 1377 North Main (435) 896-9204 Topsfield Lodge 1200 South Main (435) 896-5437 Butch Cassidy RV I-70 (Exit 54) (435) 529-7400 Lazy T Hideaway 450 S. 300 E. (435) 201-0624 OTHER: Rodeway Inn 1400 S. State (Salina) (435) 529-1300 Ranch Motel 80 N State (Salina) (435) 529-7789 Salina Creek RV 1385 S. State (435) 529-3711 Salina Super 8 75 East 1500 South (435) 529-7483 Salina Best Western Shaheens I-70 (Exit 54) (435) 529-7455 Big Rock Candy Mountain Hwy 89 (Marysvale) (800) 519-2243 Flying U RV Park 45 S. State (Joseph) (435) 527-4758 Grass Valley Inn Hwy 62 (Koosharem) (435) 638-7563 Lakeside Resort Fish Lake (435) 638-1000 Fish Lake Lodge Fish Lake (435) 638-1000 Bowery Haven Resort Fish Lake (435) 638-1040 Gunnison Rose Inn Bed & Breakfast (Gunnison) 800- 276-7415

20 Spanish Traces Spring 2012 Jefferson Hunt, cont. from page 16 trip was recorded in the Deseret rigors of desert travel. News. (Deseret News, October 5, At the conclusion of this trip, Mormon gunman, Orrin Porter 1905) According to John Hunt, Jefferson Hunt had traveled over Rockwell, were authorized to ne- they anticipated a trip of 30 days, 5,000 miles in the American West gotiate and contract for supplies on but it actually took 45 or 46 days and had been on all three major behalf of the Mormons. and they had to slaughter three trails to California – the Gila River horses for food near the end. When Route (or Southern Trail), the Hunt and the Mormon Battalion they reached the Mojave River, Humboldt River Route (or North- veterans knew of a route between two men went ahead to Williams’ ern Trail), and what would become Utah and California along the Old ranch to get emergency food which the Salt Lake to Los Angeles Spanish Trail. While in Los An- Williams provided. They arrived Route which included nearly 500 geles, they heard of the trail being at Chino about the first of the year, miles along the Old Spanish Trail. used by the Santa Fe traders and and remained for several weeks. In addition, he had traveled the El some even met Ute Chief Wakara Camino Real from San Diego to who was in Los Angeles on a trad- During that time Hunt met with Northern California. Only a small ing/rustling expedition. (Charles military officers in Los Angeles, handful of others could claim the B. Hancock Journal) Hunt most and Porter Rockwell and James same experience; nearly all of likely even talked to the Mountain Shaw traveled to meet with the them were mountain men, and Man, Miles Goodyear, about the Mormon Battalion members in San most notable among them was Kit trail south. Goodyear had traveled Diego who were about to be dis- Carson. His travels and experienc- that same trail in late 1846-early charged from their extended duty es in following trails and locating 1847 on a trading trip to Los An- there. The party was successful in and creating new roads uniquely geles and Patty Sessions reported acquiring the needed seed grain prepared him for his next great that he arrived in Salt Lake Valley and cuttings and obtained addition- adventure. from his post at Fort Buenaventura al pack animals and horses. They [Ogden] the day before Hunt and also purchased 200 milk cows and Rockwell and Shaw had traveled company left for California. (Patty Williams allowed them to take as to San Diego where they met with Sessions Journal) many bulls as they could catch – those veterans of the Mormon an additional 40 animals. Battalion who were discharged On November 18, 1847, the there in March. A number of these group of nineteen packers with 80 To help drive the cattle north, Hunt veterans decided to travel to Salt mounts and pack animals left Salt hired five Indians from Williams to Lake with Rockwell and Shaw as Lake under the leadership of Hunt. join the party. Rockwell and Shaw guides. Unfortunately, no detailed Included were his son Gilbert, remained in California. The return accounts of this trip have been who was in his early twenties, a party, now composed of 22 men, found. This group under the com- veteran of the Mormon Battalion left Chino on February 15 (pos- mand of Battalion veteran Henry and whose wife had given birth the sibly sooner, the accounts conflict) Boyle left Chino on April 12, day before they left, and his son and arrived at Salt Lake by May 1848, and arrived in Salt Lake on John Hunt, and adopted son Peter 10, a trip of almost three months. June 6 after 55 days travel on the Nease, both in their early teens. According to John Hunt, only half trail, and about a month after the Gilbert, John and Peter had gone the cows and one bull survived. return of Jefferson Hunt’s party. with the Mormon Battalion Fam- Presumably, many of the animals The party consisted of 35 people ily and Sick Detachment to Pueblo were used for food by the travel- and 135 mules and horses. But and had not previously been in ers in order to preserve the critical most significantly, it also included California. supplies on the pack animals, and the family wagon of Battalion many animals did not survive the Captain Daniel Davis, his wife In 1905, John’s account of this Spring 2012 Spanish Traces 21 Susan and son, Daniel Jr. This became part of the General Church little grass in Nov [Antelope became the first confirmed wagon Minutes for that date. Bullock Springs] to travel over the western portion recorded Hunt’s comments as fol- to Divide 24 ½ way in dry of the Old Spanish Trail (Bigler lows (author’s comments in brack- creek about 300 yards above and Bagley 2000, 397.) This single ets): X. Good water. Oceans of wa- wagon signaled the end of the Old “Meeting of immigrants at 8 ter and grass on divide [Moun- Spanish Trail as a packers trail. AM when instructions from tain Meadow] It led the way for the thousands Jefferson Hunt. head of Santa Clara 24 Pass of wagons that would travel the Hunt called for Mr. Waters and Ridge. Rocky. Water about same route in 1849 and subsequent Jim Goodale and Mr. Kinney— ½ way. Good camping. Sure years. mountaineers—(not present) to rough country. Gullies, [illeg- come and contradict his state- ible] Road is round the point. During the summer of 1849, ment. Good coming out of the creek. thousands of Gold Rush emi- Gentlemen, I am going to give Mouth of Santa Clara 24 Spots grants passed through Salt Lake a detail, once for all. I hear good grass. Indian farms. City, most hurriedly continued many miraculous reports but Plenty of timber. on the Northern Route to beat the no nothing of [honor?] I went Up canyon and divide 6 Plenty winter snows. By August nearly by the S route to the Pacific. 19 of grass. [Utah Hill] Then one thousand ‘49ers gathered in men and boys and 80 animals descend. Salt Lake; some, especially those and were 46 days going. Staid To Rio Virgin 24 Without wa- packing, rushed forward; others, a few weeks. Got 200 cows ter, plenty of grass to Beaver mostly with wagons, feared that and 160 animals and we re- Dam. Plenty of water. Go over they would suffer the same fate turned mostly same route. I left road 3 miles as the Donner Party three years here 19 Nov and went to Cal: Over to Far Muddy 20 Plenty earlier if they tried to beat the the snow was here a foot deep. of grass and water. [inter- snow. Brigham Young and other Arrived at Williams’ Ranchero lined] Here is the Buggaboo. A Mormon leaders did not want to at latter end of Dec. Staid 3 precipice of 6000 feet. [Virgin host these people for a full winter; weeks. Come back about 1st Hill] A mile above is good food was in short supply and apos- May. There is no trouble from going [Mormon Mesa] up and tasy was a concern. The answer to here to Sevier River. I have down 7 miles down is not any the problem was Jefferson Hunt no hesitation to say there will trouble. 10 miles is water and who offered to guide 100 wagons be plenty of grass and water. grass. to California for a fee of $10 per The difficult job is little hills. To Cache Spring 50 [Las Ve- wagon – a total of $1,000. The way is tolerable rough gas] Up canyon 6 miles. Sandy from Little Salt Lake to a creek [illegible] table land. Then The primary meeting to discuss about 200 miles. A spring level to the spring. Plenty of this plan with the emigrants took about ½ way among Indians. grass and water. Up spring 5 place on the morning of Monday, [Then follows a list that has miles. August 20, 1849, in the Bowery miles beyond the 200 miles To water 12 Plenty grass and at what is now Temple Square in above. It appears that this list water. Level plain. [Cotton- Salt Lake City when both Jefferson is of the road from about Cedar wood Spring] Hunt and Brigham Young spoke City to Chino.] Mountain Springs 12 Rough to the emigrants. Thomas Bullock, 1st Muddy [Coal Creek] to a and rocky. Not much grass. ½ the LDS Church secretary and spring 8 plenty of grass [Iron mile further plenty of grass. Young’s personal secretary, wrote Springs] Water 30 across level plain. down the comments. That account spring on left (a mile off) 12 [Stump Spring]

22 Spanish Traces Spring 2012 ½ river slough 4 Plenty water SELECTED BIBLIOGRAPHY New Mexico Historical and grass. Spring 30 A bad hill to go over. Bigler, David L. and Will Bagley. Events Scheduled [Emigrant Pass] Plenty of grass Army of Israel: Mormon Battalion The Genealogical Society of and water. [Resting Spring] Narratives. Spokane: The Arthur Hispanic America will hold its an- Spring 6 Moderate grass. [Wil- H. Clark Company, 2000. nual meeting and conference June low Creek/China Ranch] Then 15-17, 2012 at the Lodge of Santa down a saleratus creek 6 miles. Deseret Evening News. Salt Lake Fe, Santa Fe, New Mexico. Speak- [Amargosa River] City. October 7, 1905. ers at the conference, “Santa Fe— A mountain 15 Staid 2 days. Where Trails and Cultures Meet,” [Salt Creek] General Church Minutes 1844- include Ana Pacheco – The Roots A Bitter Spring 50 Over level 1879. Selected Collections, of Reassurance...It’s All in the plain about 6 miles rocky. Brigham Young University, Vol. 1, Genes, Hal Jackson – The Camino Little grass. DVD 18. Real Meets the Spanish Trail and Mahaugy [Mojave] River 40 Hancock, Charles B. “Journal of Santa Fe Trail, Schelley Talalay No grass. Some sage. Sandy Charles B. Hancock.” MS 1569. Dashdarti – Sephardic Resources: plain 10 miles. See Cal moun- LDS Archives. Sources in Spain and Worldwide, tains. Plenty of grass and Linda Serna – Genealogy as Detec- water. Journal History of the Church. tive Work, Dr. Arturo Madrid – In Mahaugy River 50 History Department, The Church the Country of Empty Crosses: The Cahon Pass Close to settlement of Jesus Christ of Latter Day History of an Hispano Protestant 20 miles. Saints. Family in Catholic New Mexico, The season is mild except sum- Don Usner – Historic Documents: mer is hot. About 12 or 1500 Sessions, Patty. Journal. History The Ortega Family, Francois- animals—3000 stock and 600 Department, The Church of Jesus Marie Patorni – The French Pres- cows in our caravan. I will Christ of Latter Day Saints. ence Since the 1500s, Francisco secure men to go and show you Sisneros – He Desperately Wanted that country at 10.00 a wagon. Tom Sutak is a retired criminologist to be Alcalde Mayor: Eusebio You work the way with me. and security industry executive who Duran y Chaves in the Court of I’ll find it. We ought not start has been studying the history of the King Charles III, Nancy Anderson before 1st Oct. and go through Death Valley Region for more than forty years. This article is based on – When the Habits Came March- in 60 or 70 days. information in his new book, Into ing In - The Sister of Loreto, and 825 miles to Los Angeles.” the Jaws of Hell – Jefferson Hunt: Henrietta M. Christmas – Women, The Death Valley ‘49ers Wagon Wills and Their Goods. For regis- Jefferson Hunt’s 1849 verbal ac- Train & His Adventures in California tration, visit http://gsha.net/Events. count of his trip along the western 1856-1857, which is currently in html portion of the Old Spanish Trail is publication. Tom is a member of second only to Frémont’s journal the Old Spanish Tail Association. The Historical Society of New of his 1844 trip in its detail. And Tom can be reached at www. Mexico 2012 Annual Meeting its importance for later emigrant, intothejawsofhell.com ♦ will be held May 3-5, 2012 at the mail, and freight travel along what Santa Fe Convention Center. A soon became the Salt Lake to Los tentative schedule of the events is Angeles Route was very signifi- posted on the Society webpage at cant. www.hsnm.org. The conference will offer something for everyone interested in New Mexico history,

Spring 2012 Spanish Traces 23 with the emphasis on state’s 100th Revision of OSTA Bylaws Slated for anniversary of statehood.The conference will kick-off on Thursday General Membership Meeting in Utah May 3 with an all-day Statehood Members attending the 2012 Old This time a committee, headed by History Symposium (10:30 a.m. to Spanish Trail Association Confer- Association Manager Dennis Dit- 4:30 p.m.) in the New Mexico His- ence in Richfield, Utah in June will manson, was tasked with creating tory Museum Theater which is free be enacting a new set of bylaws a new document focusing on those and open to the public. Beginning for the organization. The present elements which are fundamental on the morning of the Friday, May bylaws date to 2005 and are in to the function of the organization 4, the conference will offer about need of amendment but the Board and which should require action 70 presentations on many aspects has found the task to be very dif- of the full membership to change. of New Mexico. This is an impor- ficult due to the complexity of the Organizational functions were tant centennial event and promises current language. After several removed and will be addressed in to be among the largest ever held. years of trying to craft the needed a policy and procedures manual changes, only to have the process to be developed in the weeks and For complete up-to-date informa- disintegrate into an almost incom- months ahead. tion on New Mexico centennial prehensible series of “amended events scheduled for this celebra- amended amendments,” the Board The process for adopting the new tive year, go to www.nmcenten- voted in the Fall of 2011 to begin bylaws is addressed in the existing nial.org. ♦ the process anew. document and requires “a majority vote of the members present and voting at any annual members meeting provided that the proposed amendment(s) have been Re-Burials at LA Historic Cemetery approved by the governing board and mailed to the membership at The County of Los Angeles is conducting a re-assembly and re-burial least 30 days before the annual process for all the human remains and associated artifacts excavated from meeting.” The Board approved the the historic cemetery area of the LA Plaza de Cultura y Artes (LA Plaza) draft bylaws while meeting in St. property. According to Alexander King, OSTA California Director, “There George, Utah on March 17, 2012, were dozens of OST travelers buried there during and after the Mexican and this issue of Spanish Traces period, some of whose remains are no doubt involved.” contains the full text of the document on the following pages in The re-interment is tentatively scheduled for the period beginning on fulfillment of the requirement for or near April 9, 2012 and extending to approximately April 13, 2012. membership notification. Qualified archaeologists will place the burial containers within the previously excavated areas of the historic cemetery as close as possible to the In addition to action on the bylaws, locations from which they were originally excavated through the use of the annual membership meeting sub-meter accurate Global Positioning System units. Following the re- will provide an update on recent interment process, on a separate date, interested parties, including Native Association activities including Americans, Los Pobladores, and representatives of the Catholic Arch- information on exciting projects, diocese of Los Angeles, will have an opportunity to conduct appropriate efforts to protect the Trail from ceremonies. These ceremonies will be tentatively scheduled for a date near impacts related to proposed alter- the end of April, 2012. Confirmation of a date for the ceremonies will fol- native energy developments, and low the re-interment process. ♦ news of potential new chapters. See you in Richfield. ♦

24 Spanish Traces Spring 2012 Draft – For presentation to the general membership of the Old Spanish Trail Association at the 2012 Annual Membership Meeting – Richfield, UT – June 15-16, 2012

BYLAWS OF THE OLD SPANISH TRAIL ASSOCIATION

ARTICLE I – NAME The name of the organization is the Old Spanish Trail Association, hereinafter the Association.

ARTICLE II – PURPOSE The Association is a nonprofit corporation organized to protect, preserve, and interpret the Old Spanish Trail, including all of its related historic routes and branches, with a primary focus on those portions designated in December of 2002, or thereafter, as the Old Spanish National Historic Trail. The Association’s purpose is exclusively charitable and educational within the meaning Section 501(c)(3) of the Internal Revenue Code.

ARTICLE III – MEMBERSHIP AND DUES Membership is open to any person(s) or organizations(s) interested in the purposes of the Association. Membership options and dues shall be established by the governing board at a regular board meeting. An annual member who has not renewed membership within 90 days after the anniversary month of the following year may be deemed delinquent and dropped from the rolls of the Association. A current list of members shall be available for inspection.

ARTICLE IV – MEMBERSHIP MEETINGS 1. ANNUAL MEMBERSHIP MEETING An annual meeting of the membership shall be held at the call of the governing board for the purpose of transacting Association business. The location of the meeting shall be at a site in one of the six states traversed by the Old Spanish Trail. 2. SPECIAL MEMBERSHIP MEETINGS A special meeting of the membership may be called for any purpose by the governing board or by petition to the governing board by an Association member. 3. NOTICE OF MEMBERSHIP MEETINGS Notice of any membership meeting must be announced no later than 30 days prior to the meeting date. Notification may be made by publication inSpanish Traces, by a special mailing, or by other methods as designated by the governing board. It shall be the responsibility of each member to maintain current contact information. 4. VOTING Any dues-paying member in good standing, regardless of classification, shall be entitled to one vote in all elections and at membership business meetings. Unless otherwise provided, any proposition passed by a majority of members present shall be enacted. Proxy voting shall not be permitted. 5. QUORUM A quorum shall consist of the members present at any regular or special meeting of the membership, provided that proper notification of the meeting has occurred.

Spring 2012 Spanish Traces 25 6. NATIONAL CONFERENCE At least every two years the Association shall conduct a national conference in conjunction with the annual membership business meeting. The conference shall be an educational event with trail- related presentations by recognized authorities and including, where feasible, trail tours or field trips, trail-related entertainment, and other interpretive activities. The governing board shall develop administrative procedures to ensure timely conference planning and financial oversight.

ARTICLE V – GOVERNING BOARD – OFFICERS AND DIRECTORS 1. GENERAL POWERS The business and affairs of the Association shall be managed by a governing board of officers and directors. The officers and directors shall in all cases act as a board and they may adopt such rules, administrative procedures, and regulations for the conduct of Association business as they deem necessary, consistent with these bylaws. 2. NUMBER AND DUTIES The governing board shall consist of a minimum of eleven (11) members consisting of four (4) officers, six (6) state directors, and a minimum of one (1) at-large director. The four officers shall be a president, a vice-president, a secretary, and a treasurer. The six state directors shall consist of one (1) director from each of the six Trail states (Arizona, California, Colorado, Nevada, New Mexico, and Utah). The at-large director(s) shall be drawn from the general membership. All officers and directors must be members in good standing of the Association. a. PRESIDENT – The president shall be the principal officer of the Association and shall, when present, preside at all meetings of the governing board and of the membership. The president shall sign, with the treasurer or any other officer of the Association so authorized by the governing board, any contract or document necessary to be executed on behalf of the Association. The president may terminate any said contract with the approval of the governing board, or as stated in the contract. The president shall perform all duties incident to the office of president and such other duties as may be prescribed by the governing board. The president shall serve as an ex-officio member of all committees. b. VICE PRESIDENT – The vice president shall serve as the principal officer in the absence of the president, have general oversight of strategic planning documents, and perform such other duties as may be prescribed by the president or the governing board. c. SECRETARY – The secretary shall keep minutes of the meeting of the governing board, and the general membership; send notices to members as prescribed by these bylaws; and assume other duties as may be prescribed by the president of the governing board. d. TREASURER – The treasurer shall maintain or oversee all financial records of the Association, accept receipts and pay bills as instructed by the governing board, and assume other duties as prescribed by the president or the governing board. e. STATE DIRECTORS – Each state director shall work for the good of the Association; attend all meetings of the governing board and the general membership, unless otherwise excused; participate in Association business in person, by mail, or by electronic communication such as email, or telephone; and promote the work of the Association wherever possible. f. AT-LARGE DIRECTOR(S) – At-large directors shall work for the good of the Association; attend all meetings of the governing board and general membership, unless otherwise excused; participate in Association business in person, by mail, or by electronic communication such as email, or telephone; and promote the work of the Association wherever possible. g. PAST PRESIDENT – Upon satisfactory completion of a full-term in office, the out-going

26 Spanish Traces Spring 2012 president may serve for one year as a ex-officio voting member of the governing board to provide continuity and information to the board. 3. ELECTION AND TERM OF OFFICE a. The officers and directors of the governing board shall be elected by Association members in good standing by a mail ballot. Each officer and director must be, and remain at all times, a member in good standing of the Association. The governing board shall establish administrative procedures for the nomination of candidates for vacant positions. b. The secretary will be responsible for the conduct of each election. Ballots must be mailed out to the membership no later than 60 days prior to the next general membership meeting and must be received by the secretary no later than 30 days prior to that meeting. Ballots not received by the established deadline will not be counted. The governing board shall establish procedures for the counting of ballots and verifying the results of the election. c. Officers shall be elected for a term of two years and may be re-elected to succeed themselves provided that no officer may serve more than two consecutive terms, with the exception of the treasurer who may serve an indeterminate number of terms. Officers’ terms will be staggered so that no more than two officers are elected in any one election. d. State and at-large directors shall be elected for a term of three years and may be re-elected to succeed themselves provided that they serve no more than two consecutive terms. Terms will be staggered, with no more than two state directors being elected in any one election. e. Election results shall be officially announced at the business session of the annual membership meeting and further communicated to the full membership. The term of office for all newly elected officers and directors will commence at the meeting of the governing board held in conjunction with the annual general membership meeting. 4. REMOVAL a. Failure to remain a member in good standing of the Association shall be cause for removal. b. Any officer or director may be removed for cause by a vote of the governing board. Allegations suggesting removal for cause must be in writing and supported by specific evidence. Discussion of such matters may, by vote of the board, be conducted in closed executive session. c. Officers and directors may be removed without cause by a vote of the general membership. 5. RESIGNATION An officer or director may resign at any time by giving written notice to the governing board or president. Unless otherwise specified in the notice, the resignation shall take effect upon receipt by the board or president. 6. VACANCIES A vacancy in any governing board position, for any reason, shall be filled by appointment by the governing board at a regular or special meeting of the board or by such other method as approved by the board. Persons appointed to fill vacated positions may stand for election to succeed themselves with the subsequent election being considered their first full term. 7. REGULAR MEETINGS OF THE GOVERNING BOARD a. The governing board shall meet at least three times annually. b. One meeting shall be held in conjunction with the annual general membership meeting. c. The time and place for additional regular board meetings shall be set at the pleasure of the board. 8. SPECIAL MEETINGS OF THE GOVERNING BOARD A special meeting of the governing board may be called by any member of the board provided that the time, place, and purpose of the meeting be provided to all members of the board at least 10 days prior to the proposed meeting. Notice may be by mail or email and will be deemed delivered

Spring 2012 Spanish Traces 27 when sent to the postal or email address on file with the membership rolls of theAssociation. Spe- cial meetings may be conducted in person, by conference call, or by other mutually agreed upon electronic means. Special board meetings shall have a restricted or limited agenda. The secretary will submit a report on any special board meetings for inclusion in the minutes of the next regular board meeting. 9. QUORUM At any meeting of the governing board a quorum shall consist of a majority of the current membership of the board. 10. VOTING a. Each officer and director shall have one vote b. Proxy voting is not permitted. c. Any proposition passed by a majority of those present and voting shall be enacted. d. An email or other recognized electronic voting method may be conducted at any time by the governing board. The governing board shall develop policies and procedures for the conduct of electronic votes. e. The secretary shall submit a report on any electronic vote for inclusion in the minutes of the next regular meeting of the governing board. 11. COMPENSATION a. No officer or director shall be compensated for time served on the governing board except for reimbursement of all or a portion of actual expenses incurred while attending a regular or special board meeting or while in pre-approved travel on behalf of the Association. b. Nothing herein contained shall be construed to preclude an officer or director from serving the Association in any capacity other than as a member of the governing board and receiving compensation therefore. c. No portion of the net earnings of the Association shall inure to the benefit or, or be distributable to, its members, directors, officers, or other private persons, except as otherwise provided for by these bylaws. 12. PRESUMPTION OF ASSENT An officer or director of the Association, present at a meeting of the governing board at which an action is taken on any manner, shall be presumed to have assented to the action taken unless his or her dissent shall be recorded in the minutes of the meeting, or unless the person shall file a written dissent to such action with the person acting as secretary of the meeting before adjournment therefore, or shall forward such dissent to the secretary of the Association immediately after adjournment of the meeting. Such right to dissent shall not apply to an officer or director who voted in favor of such action. 13. CONDUCT OF BUSINESS Except as otherwise provided by these bylaws, all business shall be conducted by recognized rules of parliamentary procedure as referenced in Roberts Rules of Order Newly Revised in Brief.

ARTICLE VI – APPOINTED OFFICIALS 1. The governing board shall establish appointed positions as the need arises with duties and responsibilities to be defined by the governing board. Such positions will be ex-officio non-voting members of the governing board. Appointed officials shall serve at the pleasure of the board and may be removed with or without cause. 2. Pending available funding, the Association may contract for needed services with duties and responsibilities to be defined by the governing board.

28 Spanish Traces Spring 2012 3. Appointed officials will serve without compensation except as defined by guidelines developed by the governing board.

ARTICLE VII – COMMITTEES 1. The president shall appoint chair persons for standing and ad-hoc committees as established by the governing board. The duties and responsibilities of committees shall be defined by the governing board. 2. Each elected member of the governing board shall be a member of at least one standing or ad-hoc committee. 3. Each standing or ad-hoc committee shall have at least one elected member of the governing board as a member 4. Executive Committee – The four officers of the Association shall constitute the executive committee. The executive committee shall formulate an annual operating budget for approval by the governing board and provide a forum for the conduct of routine business between meetings of the governing board. Any action proposed by the executive committee is subject to the approval and consent of the governing board. A record of discussions of the executive committee shall be included in the minutes of the next regular meeting of the governing board.

ARTICLE VIII – FISCAL YEAR The fiscal year may be adjusted by the governing board to meet administrative needs.

ARTICLE IX – CONTRACTS, LOANS, CHECKS, & DEPOSITS 1. CONTRACTS The governing board shall be the sole authority to authorize any contract or instrument to be entered into or delivered in the name of, and/or on behalf of, the Association. Any such contract or instrument shall be signed by the president with the treasurer or any other officer or agent of the Association so authorized by the governing board. Any such contract shall contain full disclosure of any potential conflict of interest on the part of any member of the governing board or other member of the Association. Any such contract or instrument may be terminated by the president with the approval of the governing board or according to terms stated in the written contract. 2. LOANS No loans shall be contracted on behalf of the Association and no evidence of indebtedness shall be issued in its name unless so authorized by action of the governing board. Such authority may be general or confined to specific circumstances. 3. CHECK, DRAFTS, ETC. All checks, drafts, or other orders for the payment of money, notes or other evidences of indebtedness issued in the name of the Association shall be signed by such officer or officers, agents or agents, of the Association and in such manner as shall be determined by action of the governing board. 4. AUDITS The governing board shall require a financial review or independent audit of the books and records of the Association treasurer and the chapter treasurers to be conducted at least every two years. 5. DEPOSITS All funds of the Association not otherwise employed shall be deposited to the credit of the Association in such banks, trust companies, or other depositories as the governing board may select. All such agencies shall be federally insured.

Spring 2012 Spanish Traces 29 ARTICLE X – CHAPTERS 1. FORMATION The governing board of the Association may, upon application by a qualified group of persons consisting of no fewer than 10 members of the Association, form a chapter of the Association dedicated to the pro- motion of the purposes of the Association as herein established. Chapter bylaws must be consistent with these Association bylaws and must be approved by the governing board of the Association. The governing board reserves the right to deny or revoke chapter alliances. All chapter officers must be members of the Association. 2. OPERATIONS The governing board of the Association will establish policies and guidelines for the operation of chapters. 3. IRS 501(c)(3) STATUS Chapters have the opportunity to operate as 501(c)(3) tax-exempt entities under the umbrella of the Association’s IRS exemption. To achieve 501(c)(3) status chapters must adopt bylaws that reflect IRS requirements. Guidance for meeting IRS requirements will be provided in the chapter policies and guidelines.

ARTICLE XI – DISSOLUTION Upon dissolution of the Old Spanish Trail Association, the governing board shall, after paying or making provisions for the payment of all outstanding liabilities of the Association, dispose of all assets of the As- sociation exclusively for the purposes of the Association; or transfer those assets to another organization or organizations operated exclusively for one or more exempt purposes as defined by Section 501(c)(3) of the Internal Revenue Code or corresponding section of any future Federal Tax Code; or distribute those assets to the federal government, or to a state or local government for a public purpose. Any assets not so disposed of shall be disposed of by the court of competent jurisdiction of the county in which the principal office of the Association is then located, exclusively for such purposes or to such organization or organizations, as said court shall determine, which are organized and operated exclusively for such purposes.

ARTICLE XII – AMENDMENTS These bylaws may be amended or repealed, or new bylaws adopted, by a two-thirds majority vote of the members present and voting at an annual meeting of the general membership provided that the proposed amendment(s) or other action have been approved by the governing board and mailed or emailed to the membership at least 30 days prior to the membership meeting. Members may, at any time, propose amendments to the governing board for its’ future consideration.

ADOPTED BY A VOTE OF THE MEMBERSHIP

ON ______,

AT ______.

______President Secretary

30 Spanish Traces Spring 2012 2012 Ballot Election of OSTA Officers and Directors for Nickle Contracting, LLC, a company owned by Jerry, Judy, and Ryan Nickle. They specialize Two State Director positions and return this postcard ballot immedi- in building city parks and school two Officer positions, all with ately to: football, baseball and soccer fields. terms beginning June 2012, are OSTA, PO Box 1080, Waxhaw, available in this year’s election. If NC 28173-1009 Margaret Sears: you would like to accept the chal- New Mexico Director lenge and volunteer for any future Ballots must be returned and Long distance historic trails have positions, please write your name received by May 1, 2012. been my passion for over 25 years, on the appropriate line in the bal- when I was introduced to the Santa lot. You may give the Association Bios of Candidates on Ballot Fe Trail through historian Marc Manager a call (505-425-6039) to Simmons' writings, although my discuss the responsibilities of the Mark Franklin: Treasurer knowledge of the Old Spanish position. There are also a number Currently a Life Member of Trail is more recent. As a long- of committee positions available. OSTA, he has been a member time member of the Santa Fe Trail We need all of our members to be of OSTA in good standing since Association, I have served in nu- willing to contribute to the life of 1992, and attended his first OSTA merous capacities and have been the organization, and hope that you annual conference in Saguache, involved in other trail activities for will make the time to enrich us all Colorado. He owns a graphic de- over ten years. with what you have to offer. sign business in Durango, Colora-

do. He is married to Rose Chilcoat One of the goals stated in my bio Therefore, pursuant to the bylaws, (26 years) and has two children, for OSTA NM Director three years the slate of Directors as listed Sean (21) and Casey (17). In his ago was to encourage coordination on the enclosed postcard ballot free time he likes to hike, ski, raft between local chapters of the other was nominated by the Nominat- rivers, and look for rails, trails, historic trails that course through ing Committee of OSTA and is and ruts. He always says that a Santa Fe. I am pleased to report presented to you for your consid- herpetologist makes a better driver this has come to pass when OSTA, eration. Note that all candidates than an ornithologist, because the the Santa Fe Trail Association, and are incumbents with the exception herpetologist is usually looking at El Camino Real de Tierra Adentro of the Colorado Director position the road in front of himself. Mark Association will jointly sponsor for which a nominee could not be has served as OSTA Vice Presi- the 2015 conference. identified. Please cast your vote dent and currently serves as OSTA for the nominees or write in your Treasurer. My goals for the next three years, choice for any of these positions. if elected: 1. create and strengthen Your “x” or “yes” following the Judy Nickle: Secretary standing committees, and 2. name will represent your vote. Judy resides in Gilbert, Arizona actively engage New Mexico Candidates for Director must live and has been a OSTA Member members in the local chapter and in the State they represent. All for several years. She became national organization. OSTA members are eligible to vote interested in the Old Spanish Trail for all of these positions. The by- when she and her husband fol- Colorado Director: laws require the ballots be counted lowed the trail mile by mile back Your name could be here if you at least thirty days prior to the in the 1990s. Jerry has always live in Colorado and write your 2012 General Membership Meet- been interested in all the trails and name as a write-in candidate on ing of June 15. In order to meet the couple has followed many of the ballot. this deadline, please complete and them. Judy is the Office Manager

Spring 2012 Spanish Traces 31 Artists on the North Branch of the Swell, and headed on down the trail through Salina Canyon to of the Old Spanish Trail the Sevier River. Pahvant Indians subsequently ambushed Gun- by David Miller nia. The diarist and artist for this nison’s party at a campsite on expedition was Beale’s cousin, the Sevier. Gunnison and several Following the United States’ Gwinn Harris Heap. The Beale- members of his command includ- acquisition of the Mexican Ces- Heap expedition struck the North ing artist Richard Kern were killed sion in 1848, government surveys Branch of the OST at the base of in what became known as the Gun- and military traffic over the North the Sangre de Christo Pass in the nison Massacre. Branch of the Old Spanish Trail San Luis Valley in June, 1853, and expanded in the decade leading followed the OST all the way to A few wagons may have traversed up to the Civil War. This traffic California. Heap made a number the North Branch of the OST as is especially significant for trail of sketches along the trail. Over a early as 1837 and by the 1850s historians since it provides detailed dozen were published in 1854 as small wagon trains occasionally information about the OST in two colored lithographs in Heap’s Cen- rolled down the Trappers Trail ways: government sponsored trav- tral Route to the Pacific.With the from either Fort Laramie or Bent’s elers took scientific readings and exception of George Brewerton’s Fort. They pushed on over the kept detailed journals; and most of enigmatic woodcuts published in Sangre de Cristo Mountains via these expeditions included either Harper’s Monthly in 1853, Heap’s Robidoux Pass and then dropped artists or photographers who made lithographs provide the earliest down into the San Luis Valley near pictorial records of the landscape published record of scenes along the eastern border of the Great and important geographical fea- the North Branch of the OST. tures along the trail. These original Sand Dunes National Park en route to Taos. But Gunnison was the first sketches and published illustra- Two months later Lieutenant John to build a wagon road along the tions provide a wealth of vital W. Gunnison, conducting the offi- OST all the way from Fort Massa- information about the trail. There cial Pacific Railroad Survey, struck chusetts (later Fort Garland) in the were four government expeditions the OST at the same point in early San Luis Valley to the Sevier River over the OST in the 1850s that August. The Gunnison survey, in Utah. produced pictorial records. Three which included a wagon train, fol- were in 1853, and the fourth in lowed Beale’s tracks all the way Artist Richard Kern produced doz- 1858. across Colorado and Utah as far as ens of sketches along Gunnison’s the Green River Crossing. Gun- route as well as a few finished All three of the 1853 expeditions nison’s surveyors then followed paintings. Many of these images were related to exploration along the OST a few miles beyond the were reproduced as lithographs the proposed 38th parallel railroad Green River Crossing to a point and woodcuts in the finished gov- route from St. Louis to the Pacific. where the OST veered west around ernment Report. The majority were The first was Edward F. Beale’s the northern end of the San Rafael renditions of scenery along the trek by pack train to Califor- Swell. Gunnison considered the North Branch of the Old Spanish nia. With the encouragement of terrain through this huge anticline Trail. In making his sketches, Kern Senator Thomas Hart Benton of to be too broken to facilitate con- made extensive use of a camera Missouri, Beale, having success- struction of a railroad, so he left obscura. fully lobbied Congress for special the OST a few miles north of Trail funding for his California Indian Spring, traveling in a long arc to The camera obscura dates back Superintendency, chose the pro- the northwest. Turning back to the to the middle ages, when artists posed 38th parallel railroad route south, he struck the OST again in utilized a pinhole of light shin- for his return journey to Califor- Castle Valley on the western edge

32 Spanish Traces Spring 2012 ing from outside into a darkened and mule back, following Gun- major 1850s government expedi- room where it reflected an upside nison’s wagon tracks. Frémont’s tion over the North Branch of the down image on a flat surface. A party crossed over the continental OST. Loring’s soldiers departed box camera version was available divide via North Cochetopa Pass Camp Floyd in Utah Territory en by the 18th century. It solved the on December 14, 1853. Frémont route to Fort Union, New Mexico. problem of an upside down image was elated to find little more than a His command consisted of several by reflecting the image from a lens dusting of snow in the pass. They hundred dragoons and infantry onto a mirror, which reverses the continued down the west side of supported by a large wagon train. image and in turn reflects it onto the Cochetopa Pass to the Gun- Among those soldiers was Private a sheet of glass where it can be nison River, and followed Gun- Joseph Heger, a skilled artist, who sketched using tracing paper. The nison’s general route all the way made a series of beautiful pencil concept is similar to the 35mm down the Gunnison River to a drawings of scenes along the trail. single reflex camera without the point just upstream from the site of These included sketches of rock film. This device provided land- the Blue Mesa Reservoir dam. formations in Rabbit Valley north- scape artists with a method for east of Westwater, wagons fording quickly sketching accurate outlines But, instead of following the OST the Colorado at Grand Junction, of geographic features which they over the Blue Mesa to Montrose and several landscapes between would later utilize in painting as both Beale and Gunnison had Montrose and Taos. He also made their finished landscapes. done, and despite deeper snow, three important sketches which Frémont detoured to the south identify the route through North John C. Frémont led the third 1853 over Blue Mesa, heading up the Cochetopa Pass. Heger’s sketches railroad survey along the OST. Cimarron River Valley toward the also provide important clues about Frémont had courted and married San Juan Mountains. Perhaps he Captain Randolph Marcy’s route Senator Benton’s daughter Jessie, was trying to justify his failure in during his renowned mid-winter and therefore had the powerful pa- the San Juans during his Fourth odyssey from Fort Bridger to Fort tronage. Benton had lobbied hard Expedition. His party eventually Union via Cochetopa Pass (1857- with Secretary of War Jefferson crossed over Cimarron Ridge via 58). Davis to have Frémont command Owl Creek Pass, dropping down the 38th parallel railroad survey, to the Uncompahgre River. Head- Historians have long assumed that but when Davis selected Gunni- ing down that river, he and his the majority of Richard Kern’s son, Benton raised private funds to companions rejoined the OST original sketches were lost in the finance a separate Frémont survey, near modern Montrose. Photog- Gunnison Massacre. However, known as Frémont’s Fifth Expe- rapher Solomon Carvalho made most of Kern’s sketches were dition. In light of his disastrous dozens of daguerreotypes of the actually recovered. Upon receiv- Fourth Expedition which ended up country along Frémont’s route. ing news of the massacre, Brigham snowbound in the San Juan Moun- Although almost all of Carvalho’s Young sent Dimick B. Huntington tains, Frémont was determined to photographs were destroyed in a to the massacre site to recover the vindicate himself by locating an warehouse fire in the 1880s, they victims’ remains, as well as gov- all-weather snow-free pass over survive in the form of steel engrav- ernment property. Assisted by An- the continental divide. ings. Robert Shlaer in his Sights son Call of Fillmore, Huntington Once Seen used Carvalho’s en- managed to collect almost all of Frémont’s Fifth Expedition was gravings to locate Frémont’s route the missing government property delayed in Kansas due to the with considerable precision. including Kern’s notebook. It was “Pathfinder’s” ill health, and did taken to Salt Lake City and turned not get underway until October During the summer of 1858 Colo- over to Captain E. G. Beckwith, 31, 1853. They traveled on horse nel William Loring led the fourth who replaced Gunnison as expe-

Spring 2012 Spanish Traces 33 dition commander. Huntington falo Gate looking north up was less successful in recovering Sheep Creek near the conflu- the slain surveyors’ bodies, since ence of Sheep and Saguache wolves had mutilated and scattered creeks (fig. 1). Kern titled his their remains. sketch “Leaving Sahwatch Cr.” Stanley’s rendition of this Baron Friedrich Wilhelm von entrance to Cochetopa Pass Egloffstein was a recent immigrant is one of the most significant from Germany when he signed lithographs published in the Fig. 1. Richard Kern. "Leaving Sahwatch Cr". on as Frémont’s topographer in Gunnison Report. Advocates of New York State Library 1853. Frémont’s party got a little Senator Benton’s central route more than a taste of severe win- to the Pacific considered this ter conditions as they crossed the “Gate of the Buffalos” leading Wasatch Mountains in central to a snow-free Cochetopa Pass Utah. When Frémont’s emaci- over the continental divide to ated and frost-bitten party finally be the key to the viability of the arrived at the Mormon settlement Central Route. The significance of Parowan in February 1854, the of this gate can be seen in Karl Baron could go no farther. After Wimar’s 1862 painting entitled a few days of recuperation, he “Cochetopa Pass,” which ap- hitched a ride to Salt Lake City in pears as a lunette in the rotunda the back of a farm wagon. There dome of the Old Courthouse he found employment as Rich- in St. Louis. It symbolizes St. Fig. 2. John Mix Stanley after Richard Kern. ard Kern’s replacement on the Louis as the “Gateway to the "Coo-che-to-pa Pass" Reports of Explorations continuation of the government’s West.” and Surveys, II. 46. railroad survey across Nevada. The Baron also gained possession Stanley’s lithograph has the of Kern’s sketches, most of which caption “COO-CHE-TO-PA he retained after the conclusion PASS: View Looking up Sah- of the survey in California. Artist watch Creek Sept.1st (fig. 2).” John Mix Stanley also received The view is actually looking up some of Kern’s tracings, several Sheep Creek. The OST passed of which he redrew in order to through the gate, continuing up produce the lithographs published Sheep Creek for about a mile in the Gunnison railroad survey before turning west up East Report. Admittedly Stanley did not Pass Creek to the summit. My have much to work with, since the 2008 photo of the Buffalo Gate majority of Kern’s tracings con- is about 200 yards north of Kern’s Fig. 3. Buffalo Gate looking up Sheep Creek. Photo by D. Miller. tain only outlines of geographical vantage point (fig. 3). features with few notes on color or other details related to composi- Kern made this tracing from the dered a faithful copy (fig. 5). My tion. Yet, most of Stanley’s litho- east bank of Red Creek looking photograph of the Dillon Pinnacles graphs are true to Kern’s originals. southwest down the Gunnison is made from a slightly different A few contain serious distortions. Canyon (fig. 4). Stanley added two perspective looking across Blue Indians to the lithograph to provide Mesa Reservoir (fig. 6). Kern made his tracing of the Buf- perspective, but otherwise ren-

34 Spanish Traces Spring 2012 Kern made at least two sketches of the Green River crossing situated just north of modern Green River, Utah. He drew this sketch on a lithograph sheet depicting a cloud formation (fig. 7). Kern carried along a supply of these “blank” lithographs which were handy for making landscape sketches, since the clouds and sky were already present. He made this sketch Fig. 4. Richard Kern. "In a Small Ravine of the Book Cliffs from the Running into Grand [Gunnison] River, middle of the Gunnison Sept 8." New York State Library Valley looking north. The Green River flows through Gray Canyon, entering the valley just to the left of the round butte in the center of the sketch, which John Wes- ley Powell named Gunnison Butte. Stanley added the Fig 7. Richard Kern. Untitled sketch of the Book Green River in his lithograph Cliffs at the Green River Crossing. New York entitled “View of the Roan Public Library or Book Mountains at the Spanish Trail Ford of Green Fig. 5. John Mix Stanley after a sketch by River, Oct. 1st (fig 8).” Since Richard Kern. "View of Ordinary Lateral Kern had left the foreground Ravines on Grand [Gunnison] River." Reports of Explorations and Surveys. II, blank, Stanley had no idea how 51 to represent the relationship between the Book Cliffs and the Green River Crossing of the Old Spanish Trail. The ford was actually about eight miles from the Book Cliffs escarp- ment. In the lithograph, Stanley has moved the ford much closer Fig 8. John Mix Stanley after a sketch by to the Book Cliffs, reduced the Richard Kern. "View of the Roan or Book height and shape of Gunnison Mountains at the Spanish Trail Ford of Green Butte, and of course, added River, Oct. 1st." Reports of Explorations and Surveys, II, 62. Fig. 6. Dillion Pinnacles. Photo by D. Miller the two Ute Indians on the left bank. ♦

David Miller holds a Ph.D. in southwestern history from the University of New Mexico. He is currently president of the Southern Trails Chapter of the Oregon- California Trails Association.

Spring 2012 Spanish Traces 35 OSTA’s 2012 Conference June 14- 17, 2012 Richfield, Utah

Registration details can be found at: www.oldspanishtrail.org Richfield is a city in south-central Utah which lies on the Old Spanish Trail, just off Exit 40 on I-70, almost precisely halfway between Los Angeles and Denver. Surrounding Richfield isthe beautiful Fishlake National Forest, Utah, where visible remnants of the Old Spanish National Historic Trail and the Fish Lake Cut-off trail exist. Lt. George Brewerton and his guide Kit Carson travelled on this shortcut on their way to Santa Fe, NM from Los Angeles, CA in 1848.

Highlights of the 2012 program include • June 14 - Opening reception • June 15 & 16 – Two full days of presentations by historic researchers • June 16 – Merrill Osmond concert • June 16 – Catered Dutch Oven dinner & living history entertainment • Field trips to the Fish Lake Cut-off and Old The Fish Lake Cut-off, Ken McGee, watercolor, 2009 Spanish Trail with interpretive sites.

Plan now to attend. Stay a few days more to visit some of the other 400 miles of the OST in Utah including Mountain Meadows and Moab, or the nearby National Parks, including Zion, Capital Reef, Bryce Canyon, Cedar Breaks plus the Paiute ATV trail and State Parks like the Fremont Indian State Park and Anasazi State Park.

Book your hotel early! Richfield is also spon- soring the Coke Classic Junior League baseball Conference Venue: The Sevier Valley Center, Richfield, Utah tournament on June 15 and 16, so hotels may get booked up!

36 Spanish Traces Spring 2012