BELAY ON BELAY ON INTRODUCTION This reference manual may be used as a resource for COPE and climbing programs operated within the Boy Scouts of America; however, it is not intended to be an exclusive reference. There are many other resources with good information that may also be useful for these programs. The current BSA Guide to Safe Scouting and Age-Appropriate Guidelines for Scouting Activities provide guidance for programs involving members of the Boy Scouts of America. National Camp Accreditation Program (NCAP) standards supersede anything in this manual that may appear to be contradictory. The Guide to Safe Scouting and national standards are updated periodically. 3 TABLE OF CONTENTS ■ Part 1: Foundation 11 Chapter 3: Warm-Ups and Initiative Games 23 Chapter 1: Leave No Trace 13 Warm-Ups 23 Principles of Leave No Trace 13 Warm-Up Resources 24 Plan Ahead and Prepare 13 Icebreaker Activities 24 Travel and Camp on Durable Surfaces 14 Flexibility Activities 24 Dispose of Waste Properly 14 Cardiovascular Activities 24 Leave What You Find 14 Balance Awareness Activities 25 Minimize Campfire Impacts 15 Group Awareness Activities 25 Respect Wildlife 15 How to Choose a Game 25 Be Considerate of Other Visitors 15 The Game Process 25 Examples of Warm-Up Activities 26 Chapter 2: Challenge by Choice Initiative Games 27 and Setting Goals 17 Toss-a-Name 28 The Full-Value Contract©* 18 Have You Ever . .? 29 Five Finger Contract 19 Moonball 31 PEEP 19 Sightless Height Alignment 32 Goals 20 Sightless Square 33 SMART Goals 20 Hoops Around the Circle 34 Setting Goals 21 Hug Tag 34 Traffic Jam 35 Tangle Knot 36 All Aboard 37 TP Shuffle 38 A-Frame Shuffle 39 Inventor’s Machine 40 The Monster 40 Trolley 41 Punctured Drum 41 The Blind Maze 42 *Used with permission of Project Adventure Stepping Domes 44 5 Chapter 4: Spotting 47 Common Parts of Belay Systems 72 ABCD Method 48 Friction Devices 72 Rope 74 Chapter 5: Dealing With Fear 49 Webbing 76 Accessory Cord 76 The Comfort Zone, Educational Zone, and Danger Zone 51 Knots 77 Comfort Zone 51 Parts of a Rope 78 Educational Zone 51 Knots for Anchoring, Climbing, Danger Zone 51 Rappelling, and Belaying 78 Belaying and Belay Signals 82 Chapter 6: Effective Teaching Belaying in the BSA 82 Using EDGE 53 Belaying From Above 83 Learning Styles 53 Belaying From Below 84 Sitting vs. Standing Belay 84 The EDGE Method 55 Belaying Variations 84 Belaying With Belay Devices 84 Chapter 7: Safety Measures and Backup Belayer 85 Accident Prevention 57 Verbal Signals for Climbers and Belayers 85 Accident Prevention 58 Getting Out of a Belay System 87 Personnel 58 Policies and Procedures 60 Chapter 9: Climbing and Rappelling 88 Equipment 60 Towers and Climbing Structures 88 Environment 60 Anchors 88 Safety Guidelines 61 Rigging Climbing Belay Systems 89 Staff Equipment and Behavior 62 Climbing 90 General Safety 62 Guidelines for Staff Members 62 Rappelling 90 Rigging Releasable Rappel Systems 90 Chapter 8: Life Safety Systems 63 Anchors 92 Rappel Rope 92 Parts Common to Personal Safety and Belay Systems 64 Climbing and Rappelling Harnesses 64 Program Protocol 93 Helmets 69 Figure Eight Descender 93 Carabiners 69 Rappelling Technique 94 Anchors 70 Autoblock 95 Beginning Descents 95 Common Parts of Personal Safety Systems 71 Cable Ascender 71 Zip-Line Tether 71 Lanyards 72 Continuous Belay 72 Self-Belayed Climbing 72 6 Chapter 10: Equipment Chapter 14: Universal Access 120 Control and Inventory 96 Universal Access Plans 121 Procurement 96 Universal Access Facilities Visual and Formal Inspections of Gear 97 and Equipment 121 Visual Inspection 97 Formal Inspection and Inventory 97 Chapter 15: Course Construction Hints for Marking Equipment 97 Fundamentals 124 Site Selection 124 Keeping an Inventory 98 Parts Commonly Used in Course Retiring Equipment 98 Construction 125 Chapter 11: Pre-Use Inspection 100 Element Support Structures 126 Appropriate Paperwork 100 Cable Terminations 127 Pre-Use Equipment Inspections 101 Critical Versus Noncritical Applications 127 Chapter 12: Mechanical Forces in Challenge Advantage Systems 102 Course Belay Systems 128 Types and Parts of Pulleys and Tools Used in Course Construction 129 Mechanical Advantage Systems 102 Course and Equipment Maintenance 130 Characteristics of Mechanical Advantage Systems 104 Applications 105 Chapter 13: Emergency Preparedness 106 ■ Part 2: COPE 132 Emergency Response Plan 106 Summoning Aid 107 Chapter 16: Goals and Reporting Aid 107 Features of COPE 134 What to Do If an Accident Results Goals and Objectives of COPE 135 in an Injury 107 Communication 135 What to Do If an Accident Results in a Fatality 108 Planning 135 What to Do in Any Accident or Teamwork 135 Emergency Situation 108 Trust 135 Leadership 135 First Aid 109 Decision Making 135 Preparation for Emergencies 109 Problem Solving 135 First-Aid Supplies for Courses 110 Self-Esteem 135 General First-Aid Guidelines 110 Record Keeping 111 Background and History of Ropes Courses 136 Incident Resolution 112 CALMER Approach 113 Categories of COPE Activities 137 Rescue Equipment 118 Features of COPE 137 Rescue Practice 118 Levels of the COPE Program 138 Guidelines for Using COPE Programs 138 7 Chapter 17: Sequencing Chapter 21: High-Course Activities 187 and Processing 140 Issuing the Challenge 188 Techniques for Effective Considerations 188 Processing/Reflection 140 High-Course Events 190 Balance Beam 190 Chapter 18: Stories and Tall Tales 142 Burma Bridge 192 Cargo Net 194 Chapter 19: Trust Activities 144 Caving Ladder 196 Definition of Trust 144 Centipede 198 Participant Posture 145 Commando Climb 198 Trust Events 145 Confidence Pole 200 Flying Squirrel 202 Trust Wave 145 Gap Step 204 Trust Duo 146 Giant’s Ladder 206 Human Spring 146 Multivine Traverse 208 Trust Trio 146 Mush-Line Traverse 210 Trust Levitation 147 Pirate’s Crossing 212 Cookie Factory 147 Rappel Line 214 Trust Circle 148 Rope Climb 215 Trust Fall 148 Sky Walk 216 Chapter 20: Low-Course Activities 151 Slack-Line Traverse 218 Vertical Playground 221 Low-Course Events 152 Zip Line 222 Artesian Beams 152 The Beam 154 Chapter 22: Group Development 225 Cable Traverse 156 Stages Model 226 Criss Cross 158 Forming 226 Drop Zone 160 Storming 226 Islands 162 Norming 227 Mohawk Walk 164 Performing 227 Nitro Crossing 166 Porthole 168 Spiderweb 170 Swinging Log 171 Tire on Pole 173 Tire Traverse 175 Track Walk 177 Triangle Traverse 179 The Wall 181 Water Wheel 182 Whale Watch 184 Wild Woosey 185 8 ■ Part 3: Climbing 229 ClimbSmart! Program 245 Aid Climbing 246 Chapter 23: Site Selection Clean Aid Gear 246 and Management 231 Natural Rock Faces 231 Chapter 26: Anchoring 249 Safety Lines 250 Artificial Walls 232 BSA Climbing/Rappelling Anchors 250 Portable Climbing Structures 232 Anchor Points 250 Selecting a New Site for a BSA Climbing/Rappelling Program 233 Natural Anchor Points 250 Artificial Anchor Points 252 Evaluating the Safety of a Climbing/Rappelling Area 234 Bolts and Hangers 254 Weather 234 Types and Sizes of Bolts 254 Rock 234 Anchoring Systems 255 Equalized, Angle, Redundant, Chapter 24: Environmental Conditions 235 No Extension, Solid, Timely 256 Identifying Hazards 235 Equalization in Anchor Systems 257 Cordelette 258 Potential Environmental Hazards 235 Equalette (Two-point) 258 Potential Human Hazards 235 Web-o-lette 259 Chapter 25: Rock Climbing, Bouldering, Limiting Knots 259 and Aid Climbing 237 Reminders for Safe Anchoring Systems 259 Falling 238 In Case of Injury 238 Chapter 27: Teaching the Climbing Merit Badge 261 Climbing Classification System 239 Bouldering 239 Spotting 240 Verbal Signals for Boulderers and Spotters 240 Climbing 241 Footholds 241 Handholds 242 Combination Holds 244 Resting While Climbing 245 Down-Climbing 245 9 PART ONE FOUNDATION CHAPTER 1 Leave No Trace The COPE or climbing site is an outdoor resource that can aid in the overall development of character in young people. The safety and well-being of participants and staff are of paramount importance, closely followed by preservation of the natural setting. By using Leave No Trace outdoor ethics to govern the stewardship of this resource, it will be preserved for future generations to use. Aspire to climb without leaving a trace. Keep these points in mind when planning COPE and PRINCIPLES OF climbing activities: • Though it may seem there is plenty of room for LEAVE NO TRACE new routes, rock resources are limited. Plan Ahead and Prepare • When considering establishing new routes, weigh whether the local ecology can withstand Proper event planning and preparation help COPE or the increased traffic (new trails, etc). Does it climbing participants achieve their goals safely and really add something new to the other climbs in enjoyably while minimizing damage to natural the area? resources. When confronted with unexpected situations, poorly prepared participants often resort • Adjust loose rocks to make them stable instead to high-impact solutions that degrade the outdoors or of tossing them over the edge. put themselves at risk. • Avoid high-impact rigging using bolts or other Poor planning often results in: permanent installations when other options are available. • High-risk travel or emergency evacuations because participants were not prepared for a • Chipping and drilling destroys the rock. Use remote location or did not protect themselves from removable protection and natural anchors— insect pests, poisonous plants, and bad weather. no pitons. • Improperly located sites that do not have proper • Bolts should only be used when no other screening between events, leading to unintended protection is available. interaction between groups on the course. • Protect trees used as anchors. • Excessive trash or personal items left behind • Do not allow pets at the program site. because of failure to plan properly for the events of the day. 13 Travel and Camp on Durable Surfaces Damage to land occurs when surface vegetation or communities of organisms are trampled beyond recovery.