Tropical Birding Trip Report Sulawesi & Halmahera September 2013
A Tropical Birding CUSTOM tour Sulawesi & Halmahera (Indonesia)
Birding Beyond the “Wallace Line”
Green-backed Kingfisher Tangkoko 15 species of kingfisher were seen on the tour
4th – 24th September 2013
Tour Leader: Sam Woods
Above all the goal of this trip was to see Hylocitrea, a monotypic, endemic, bird family confined to the mountains of Sulawesi. This was the whole reason-d’être for the trip for John and Karen. And so we were mighty relieved to get the bird, and get it well, on our first afternoon along Lore Lindu’s Anaso Track during the first few days. A good number of endemics were recorded as expected-120 ENDEMICS in total (117 seen) on the tour, which yielded the expected 120+ lifers for the two very well-traveled, post-6,600 listers, 1 www.tropicalbirding.com +1-409-515-0514 [email protected] Page
Tropical Birding Trip Report Sulawesi & Halmahera September 2013 who put this trip together. Among the long list of 21 raptor species recorded were all four of the endemic accipiters on Sulawesi, a rare group to complete on one trip.
We saw all of the tour’s “signature birds”, such as Purple-bearded Bee-eater, which was seen without any fuss along the Anaso Track during our ascent; Diabolical (Satanic) Nightjars were found at two different roosting sites, (even though neither of these were at the usually most reliable roosting site), with one confiding pair being very popular indeed as it led to not only great views but great photos of them in Lore Lindu; arguably the world’s best pitta, Ivory-breasted Pitta, was seen well several times on Halmahera; and the Wallace’s Standardwings, now visited from the comfort of a luxury dive resort, and with minimal physical effort required to reach the lek site, were seen up close and very well doing what birds-of-paradise do best: displaying; Lilac-cheeked Kingfisher initially gave us the run around in Tangkoko, before Samuel’s keen eyesight put us out of our misery, when he found a quietly perched bird a short time before lunch on our last day, which headlines a star-studded cast of 15 kingfisher species seen on the tour (in the end we found two more after then!); and a contender for the world’s most handsome thrush, Red-backed Thrush was stalked as it foraged on the forest floor in Tangkoko; some very close, and long looks, at the tricky Pygmy Hanging-Parrot proved very popular all round too.
And, of course, it would be a crime not to mention the superb looks we had at a Maleo heading to roost in the trees late one afternoon, which gave such long looks in that beautiful afternoon light which only served to intensify the rose-pink wash on the belly. Other popular, and significant moments, of the tour, included encountering two of the rarest rails in the region: on Halmahera an Invisible Rail was seen extremely close, after wading into a Sago swamp; and on Sulawesi the rare Blue-faced Rail had taken up temporary residence along the footpath at Tambun, allowing remarkable and regular views during our visit! Of course, one of the other great appeals of this tour are the myriad of nightbirds readily available, which we enjoyed immensely; from the recently described Cinnabar Hawk-Owl (Boobook) at Lore Lindu, to impressive day-roosting Ochre-bellied Hawk-Owl (Boobook) and Sulawesi Scops-Owls in Tangkoko. On top of that this tour is great for mammal-lovers and listers, providing chances to catch up with a small, though highly desired, group of endemic mammals from the region…
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Tropical Birding Trip Report Sulawesi & Halmahera September 2013
We did very well mammal-wise on this tour, picking up four endemic macaques (we actually walked among a large troop of Celebes Crested Macaques in Tangkoko; and saw Moor Macaque on our first day in South Sulawesi; picking up Tonkean Macaque in Lore Lindu in Central Sulawesi and the most rarely-seen of the quartet, Gorontalo Macaque along the Molibagu Road in North Sulawesi). Tangkoko proved itself, once again, as a must for mammal-listers, with the aforementioned habituated troop of some FORTY or so Celebes Crested Macaques there, accompanied by a magical sighting of a group of five Spectral Tarsiers, which included the photogenic moment of four of these pint-sized primates all lined up in a row on rainforest tree buttress. On top of that Tangkoko also gave us a great encounter with a Bear Cuscus later that same morning too.
Tour Summary:
5th September Karaenta to Lore Lindu
Having arrived in the capital of South Sulawesi, Makassar (confusingly, formerly known as Ujung Pandang), the night before, we were perfectly placed to go after one of the more local Sulawesi endemics of the tour: Black-ringed White-eye, which is confined to the south. An early start saw us leaving our comfortable coastal resort in darkness, and making our way up to the limestone encrusted hills north of the city. Karaenta is a great place to begin the tour, offering a gentle introduction to the island’s unique birdlife. We took breakfast in the field, overlooking attractive limestone karst forest, where the white-eye is locally common. It took a few minutes longer than expected (maybe fifteen minutes total!), but the Black-ringed White-eye soon started singing close by, and could be observed before we actually began
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Tropical Birding Trip Report Sulawesi & Halmahera September 2013 tucking in to our breakfast. Breakfast was further delayed however, when another endemic surfaced right by the road, a creamy-faced male Sulawesi Dwarf-Hornbill, and a Piping Crow flew over calling. We then relaxed and had breakfast safe in the knowledge a couple of key birds were already under the belt. A walk along a short side trail resulted in our local guide glimpsing a Red-bellied Pitta hopping on a limestone outcrop, although it melted back into the forest before we could all get it, and this species would have to wait for another day. However, this short venture was rewarded with our first mammal of the tour, Moor Macaque, which, like the white-eye, is an endemic confined to South Sulawesi. A Spotted Kestrel and a soaring Sulawesi Serpent-Eagle became the first raptors of the tour, and the first of many Yellow-billed Malkohas passed by, while a large shape on the far hillside morphed into a splendid male Knobbed Hornbill, the first of many of these dramatic birds to come on the tour. Shorty after we went in search of a mystery bird lower down the road, back in the direction of Makassar. Here the forest thins, and the forest edge provides habitat for another endemic bird which has yet to be formerly described, the so-called “Ben King” Flycatcher or “Sulawesi” Flycatcher, which was first seen by its namesake back in 1997, but still remains unnamed. Another “Tropical Birder”, Keith Barnes had found one of these inconspicuous birds in recent weeks, and armed with pinpoint directions, we parked up, got out of the vehicle, and found the flycatcher in exactly the tree indicated. Thanks Keith! The white-eye, hornbill and flycatcher were our main target birds at this site, and so we then simply birded the entrance to a park lower down, picking up some further widespread Sulawesi endemics, like Gray-sided Flowerpecker and Yellow-sided Flowerpecker, as well as a striking male White-shouldered Triller. After just a few very productive hours on site, we had to head back to the city of Makassar in readiness for our flight, picking up a small group of Pale-headed Munias and Javan Sparrows en-route, as well as Lemon-bellied White-eye and the ever-present Golden- bellied Gerygone (formerly known, more interestingly, as “Flyeater”), at the airport itself.
It was then time to experience first-hand the chaos of Indonesian airports, with our typically delayed flight into Central Sulawesi and the city of Palu, where we connected with the next set of crew for our trip into Lore Lindu.
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Tropical Birding Trip Report Sulawesi & Halmahera September 2013
6th September Lore Lindu
Lore Lindu was our first major site of the tour, and so was to provide our first flurry of endemic birds. This site is especially rich, providing access to both montane and lower elevation forests, and offering many species only possible at this one site. There are several areas within Lore Lindu that we birded, including Lake Tambing (around 1800m/5900ft.); the lower valleys below Wuasa, around Sedoa (below 1200m/3940ft.); and the infamous Anaso Track (which rises up to 2300m/7545ft.), which allows access to the highest elevation species of the tour.
Our exploration began at Lake Tambing, which we arrived at before dawn, after the first, of many, super- early starts of the tour, in order to chase after the substantial number of endemic nightbirds on offer. Within minutes of our arrival along a forested roadside, our first of these was in the spotlight: Cinnabar Hawk-Owl (Boobook). This owl was only formerly described in 1997 from Gunung Ambang in North Sulawesi, but was not found in Central Sulawesi, here at Lore Lindu, until as recently as 2007. As darkness gave way to dawn, we picked up our first daytime montane endemics, like Blue- fronted Flycatcher, Rusty- flanked (-bellied) Fantail, Sulphur-bellied Whistler, and Sulawesi Leaf-Warbler, in addition to some typically tame Snowy-browed Flycatchers; all common species, which were to become familiar to us during our next few days in the mountains. Then we had our first endemic accipiter on Sulawesi, one of four available to us, and one of the hardest endemic groups to complete on the tour, when a Spot-tailed Goshawk gave its distinctive cries nearby, and with a little work, a pair were brought in to some close trees for some stellar looks at this diminutive and handsome hawk. The local guides also lined up a superb, Superb Fruit-Dove beside there too. Other birds found hiding within the mixed flocks around the edge of Lake Tambing included noisy Malias, bright Citrine Canary-Flycatchers, jet black Sulawesi Drongos, several Streak-headed White-eyes (Dark-eyes), and a sharp Pygmy Cuckooshrike. A little “off-roading” was required to get views of the furtive Chestnut-backed Bush-Warbler, before our first Ashy Woodpecker was found
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Tropical Birding Trip Report Sulawesi & Halmahera September 2013 clasped to a large trunk. Birding the road a little lower down led us to a singing male Sulawesi Blue- Flycatcher, which proved elusive at first, before giving cracking looks in the end.
We then climbed the Anaso Track, a rocky trail that rises up to 2300m/7545ft. elevation, and in so doing accesses some higher elevation species only available there. Our reason for the climb was very clear: John and Karen had put this trip together for one very clear reason, to complete the set of 229 bird families for the world, with the only endemic family on Sulawesi: Hylocitrea, a high elevation species which was formerly considered to be a whistler, but is now known to be closer in association to waxwings, and occupies an endemic, monotypic family. In their keenness to track this down (they “were not going to leave the mountain without it”!), we opted for some basic camping along the track to save us the energy- sapping need to climb up several times. Before we reached the “Hylocitrea Zone”, we picked up some other great birds though. We had barely begun climbing, when a Red-eared Fruit-Dove clattered up into a tree alongside the track. Not long after as we climbed further we found the Dark-eared Myza (Lesser Sulawesi Honeyeater), which is replaced by the larger White-eared Myza (Greater Sulawesi Honeyeater) further up the track, which we saw later that day when we reached the higher elevations which it occurs at. Climbing further we reached the famous landslide which has rendered this formerly drivable track, undriveable, and there waiting for us was one of Sulawesi’s signature endemics, the stunning Purple-bearded Bee-eater, sunning itself on an open branch (photo below).
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Tropical Birding Trip Report Sulawesi & Halmahera September 2013
Not long after Idris, our experienced local park guide, declared he had another, much more seldom seen endemic, Sombre Pigeon, (photo below), which was sitting quietly in the trees. Around the same time, while admiring the view from an old landslide looking back down the mountain, we picked up a calling Sulawesi Hawk-Eagle circling above the trees. Our first day in the mountains was going swimmingly; now we just needed that much-wanted family. We finally reached our camp, after little further excitement, took in our scenic surroundings, and ate lunch after a short shower curtailed our initial plans to continue birding. The shower was short-lived though, and so we set out for our main target. A short distance up from camp, a small flock appeared in a small fruiting tree, and amazingly one of the first birds identified was a super Hylocitrea feeding in the open! Mission accomplished, and the high of finishing a long quest for all the 229 extant bird families was written large all over the faces of John and Karen! Tensions eased after this, and we set off to see what else we could find, which yielded our first of two Maroon-backed Whistlers for the trip (a burnt red-saddled male), and our guide pulled another key bird out of the hat, with a pair of Diabolical (Satanic) Nightjars roosting on an attractive red moss-covered rock. A few high-flying Mountain Serins passing overhead however, merely left us wanting more…
7th – 8th September Lore Lindu
The first of these days was spent on the Anaso Track, before we descended back to our base at the village of Wuasa, and spent the other time around the lower valleys below Wuasa and back again at Lake Tambing, picking up a host of new species at all of the sites.
The pick of the bunch up on the Anaso Track was a Great Shortwing which chose to feed on the trail on several occasions, while we searched (unsuccessfully) for Geomalia; and we also enjoyed some excellent perched views of Mountain Serins foraging low in the trees, including a fire-branded male for some of us. We also received an “upgrade” to our previous days looks at a male Maroon-backed Whistler which came in typically low and furtively, but did so on several occasions, giving some atypically fantastic, if short, views. 7 www.tropicalbirding.com +1-409-515-0514 [email protected] Page
Tropical Birding Trip Report Sulawesi & Halmahera September 2013
We also stumbled upon a different pair of Diabolical (Satanic) Nightjars, which provided incredible views and endless photo opportunities. This was a popular bird that was voted for by John in his top five birds of the tour (photo below).
Back down at the lower altitude forest surrounding Danau Tambing, we searched through mixed feeding flocks which, John and Karen managed to pick a Sulawesi Thrush out of two separate flocks, while Pygmy Cuckooshrike was decidedly easier, turning up time and again, as did several Sulawesi Drongos. However, the Cerulean Cuckooshrike, was proving a much more slippery customer and continued to elude us. Other highlights in the flocks though included Sulawesi (Pygmy) Woodpecker, to add to several Ashy Woodpeckers we found along the roadside there too. Some flowering trees also attracted a handful of Sulawesi Myzomelas, including some bright scarlet males. Fiery-browed Mynas were typically abundant, and a frequent sight around the lake. However, one of the standout birds was a sharp-looking Small Sparrowhawk searching intently for prey from a roadside snag; our second of the four endemic Sulawesi accipiters seen on the tour. Yellow-and-green Lorikeets had teased us by flying over at jet speed on many occasions along the Anaso Track, but once we were back down around the lake, we finally tracked down three birds sitting quietly in a dead tree, which allowed prolonged scope views. The lake itself also held a pair of Sunda Teal on one morning.
Spending some time lower down around Wuasa and Sedoa was good for raptors, with Sulawesi Hawk- Eagle and Barred (Sulawesi) Honey-Buzzard seen soaring above. Lower down still, one of the forest patches produced our only Sulawesi Cicadabirds of the tour, with up to four birds seen. One late
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Tropical Birding Trip Report Sulawesi & Halmahera September 2013 afternoon was spent at much lower altitudes, watching pigeons gathering in the trees to roost, with some of the same trees holding the striking White-bellied Imperial-Pigeon sitting side-by-side with the endemic Grey-headed Imperial-Pigeon, and Gray-cheeked (Green) Pigeons were also seen in the same area, while small groups of Purple Needletails cruised gracefully overhead. Our second endemic macaque of the trip was also found with a family troop of Tonkean Macaques along the roadside, which preceded our first Short-tailed Starlings and only White-rumped (Sulawesi) Triller of the trip. Groups of the enormous Knobbed Hornbills were also seen flying around a ridge, while a distant Ivory-backed Woodswallow flew high above. Our dinnertime searches for nightbirds met with mixed success-no sight nor sound of Sulawesi Masked Owls, and calling Sulawesi Scops-Owls remained firmly distant and uninterested. However, a smashing Speckled Boobook was seen, right within the garden of our guesthouse (photo below).
9th September Lore Lindu to Makassar
By the final morning of our time at Lore Lindu we were looking for just a small handful of birds, with our success over the last few, intense, birding days, where we’d focused on getting a great start to our trip list. And so we birded around Lake Tambing once more, starting at dawn, where playing back to a calling Sulawesi Scops-Owl produced the strange reaction of a Cinnabar Hawk-Owl (Boobook) coming in to the call, twice! We would return to some decidedly easier Sulawesi Scops-Owls once we arrived in Tangkoko, later on the trip. But mostly, we were on the lookout for Cerulean Cuckooshrike, a regular species in the 9 www.tropicalbirding.com +1-409-515-0514 [email protected] Page
Tropical Birding Trip Report Sulawesi & Halmahera September 2013 area, within some of the larger mixed feeding flocks, (which held many of the “usual suspects” like Rusty- flanked (-bellied) Fantails, Sulawesi Drongos, Yellow-billed Malkohas, Mountain White-eyes, and vociferous Malias). However, despite many flocks passing by us, we had come up empty-handed, until a mid-morning flock came by and Cerulean Cuckooshrikes gave away their presence by their grating calls, and pretty soon these beady-eyed cuckooshrikes were seen in the trees overhead. Tambing also yielded more Sulawesi Myzomelas, a pair of Ashy Woodpeckers, and our final Blue-fronted Flycatchers of the tour, (this being the only regular site for them on the itinerary). Then it was time to load up and head back to the city of Palu for our flight back to South Sulawesi and the city of Makassar…
On the journey back we found a couple of soaring raptors, which revealed themselves to be the first Rufous-bellied and Black Eagles for the tour, and, surprisingly, also saw another Sulawesi (Pygmy) Woodpecker feeding along the roadside in some trash habitat, where a small group of Short-tailed Starlings were also noted nearby! We then focused on a stake out for near Palu for one of John’s birds of the trip: Savanna Nightjar, which was found, as hoped, roosting in some dry country (photo below). This bird had haunted John since a near miss with the species on Hong Kong some years back, and so was a long-time coming pull back. The same, lower altitude, open country produced a small group of Lemon- bellied White-eyes, a handful of Blue-tailed Bee-eaters, a lone Little Bronze-Cuckoo, and a couple of Pale-headed Munias. Another night was spent in Makassar, at a very comfortable bayside resort with a riverboat for a restaurant.
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Tropical Birding Trip Report Sulawesi & Halmahera September 2013
10th September Makassar to Halmahera
One of the earliest starts of the tour was needed, to make a journey all the way from South Sulawesi north to the Spice Island of Halmahera. This involved a direct flight from the city of Makassar to the island of Ternate, a small volcanic cone, which has long been the administrative center and hub for accessing the North Moluccas (or Maluku, as it is now officially known). From Ternate (where Alfred Russel Wallace famously sent some letters to Darwin, outlining his own ground-breaking theories of evolution by natural selection), we took a short speedboat ride to Halmahera (with a few small groups of Red-necked Phalaropes noted from the back of the boat), clearly visible to us across the channel. Once we reached Halmahera, we transferred to a modern pick-up, and met with our local guide, Denny, for the next stage of the tour. Although this may appear like a travel day, it was far from it, as we had a very birdy afternoon, adding many new birds, and healthy first batch of Moluccan specialties.
Even though, by looking at a map, we seemed only a short distance away from the upper “arm” of Sulawesi, the birdlife is markedly different on Halmahera, which is further east from Wallace’s original line, and therefore closer to Australasian territory. This is reflected in its avifauna, and this was quickly noticeable, with Willie- wagtails, an Australasian species absent from Sulawesi, seeming to decorate every roadside wire with their mud nests, and themselves. Australasian avifauna was further noted by our first Blyth’s Hornbills, (which are replaced by the enormous Knobbed Hornbill on Sulawesi), Metallic Starlings, a Sacred Kingfisher, and our first Rainbow Bee-eater.
Not long after meeting with our local guide a short roadside stop produced our first, perched, Red-flanked Lorikeets, and a very fortuitous Rufous-tailed Bush-hen, which casually strolled out into the road 11 www.tropicalbirding.com +1-409-515-0514 [email protected] Page
Tropical Birding Trip Report Sulawesi & Halmahera September 2013 several times for unbeatable looks. We did good for parrots on the drive in, as we encountered a first groups of handsome red-and-blue Violet-necked Lorys and several flyby Great-billed Parrots by the close of our first afternoon on Halmahera. A couple of prominent shapes on roadside wires proved to be a pair of Blue-and-white Kingfishers, the first of two kingfisher species endemic to the Moluccas seen that afternoon, and several times subsequently (photo page before). Later in the afternoon, a roadside palm played host to a confiding Sombre Kingfisher (photo below). A special stop at a secluded beach also, rather appropriately, yielded two Beach Kingfishers, at a regular stake out for the species.
While, in the past, birding trips to Halmahera were accompanied with horror stories of very rustic accommodations, and poor facilities, the opening of a new dive resort overlooking scenic Weda Bay changed all that in the last couple of years, meaning we were heading for the best food and lodging of the entire tour (Weda Resort). However, we did not race off to the resort, as we passed through some excellent forest patches en-route, which provided a host of Moluccan endemics right off the bat. A pair of Rufous-bellied Trillers interrupted a roadside lunch; and Denny brought the car to a halt for a roadside Paradise Crow (our first of two birds-of-paradise possible on the island); before we moved on to a low ridge where two of the scarcer endemics on Halmahera gave themselves up remarkably easy; first a White-naped Monarch, then the distinctly less attractive Drab Whistler; alongside, the clumsy, deliberate movements of several Goliath Coucals quickly led to their detection, and a White-streaked Friarbird visited a near fruiting tree, which we’d hoped might draw in a Scarlet-breasted Fruit-Dove. We
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Tropical Birding Trip Report Sulawesi & Halmahera September 2013 then we moved on to a rich area of forest which produced several handsome Gray-headed Fruit-Doves in the treetops; several Moustached Treeswifts regularly cruising the skies above; a Halmahera (Dusky-brown) Oriole skillfully found by Denny singing within a narrow window into the canopy; Moluccan Starling perched out on a dead tree; a very responsive Cream-throated White-eye was photographed singing back at us in some roadside scrub (photo below), which also held both Moluccan Flycatcher and Shining Flycatcher. Heading in earnest for the comfort of the resort we were once again sidetracked when a small group of Black-faced Munia appeared in the grasses beside the local rubbish dump. We finally arrived in more scenic surrounds, overlooking a beautiful, idyllic bay, with spacious rooms and excellent food the norm over our coming 4 nights stay in a comfortable resort.
That night, our first attempts to track down a Moluccan Owlet-Nightjar were largely unsuccessful, with merely a very obstructed view of one of the calling birds achieved, and so we vowed to return to this species again the following morning.
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Tropical Birding Trip Report Sulawesi & Halmahera September 2013
11th September Halmahera: STANDARDWING LEK visit
Leaving our luxury accommodation early, we set out for one of the highlights of the entire tour, let alone on Halmahera. The resort we were staying in is located near some logging roads that allow access to some rich forest patches, one of which boasts the most accessible Wallace’s Standardwing lek on the island. En-route to the display sight, under cover of darkness, a distant Moluccan Scops-Owl reminded us of nightbirds we were still keen to track down, although it would have to wait. Our focus was to ensure we reached the display site for the bird- of-paradise early, pre first light, so that we did not disturb the birds from coming and doing what they do best; display. The walk in took all of twenty- five minutes, a far cry from some of the traditional sites in the past which required a three hour slog through thick mud and took in several tricky stream crossings too. This was a cakewalk by comparison! At the display site a bench has been built with a perfect view of the action, so we took a seat, and waited for the forest, and the standardwings, to awaken. The presence of the Wallace’s Standardwings (Standardwing Bird- of-paradise) was quickly confirmed, when several males harsh cries alerted us to them in the trees overhead (photo above). As the light improved we could make out their shapes not far above us at all, which quickly took on even more bizarre shapes as they burst into action when a female arrived on the scene. The males erected their delicate white display plumes, fanned out their shimmering green breast shields and put on one of the very best birds-of-paradise shows anywhere (for close proximity to the action for one thing). While we sat there, and the birds leapt from perch to perch in flurries of nervous excitement we heard many other exciting birds (such as Ivory-breasted Pitta no less), though we were unbroken in our concentration, the display show was simply too good to afford distraction with anything else!
Eventually, the standardwing action slowed, and we moved back out to the road, seeing a Spectacled Monarch working the roadside forest edge and a Cinnamon-bellied Imperial-Pigeon perched above. We also checked in on a fruiting tree, which was chocked full of Violet-necked Lorys, but no Chattering Lorys as hoped. We did though pick up our first White Cockatoo in the same area. We then weaved our way down a forest-fringed logging track (grateful of a 4WD at this stage!), noting our first male Blue- capped Fruit-Dove en-route, to an area where we hoped to find one of Halmahera’s other most desired endemics: Ivory-breasted Pitta. We paused at the trailhead to enjoy a super, perched, view of a tiny
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Tropical Birding Trip Report Sulawesi & Halmahera September 2013
Moluccan Hanging-Parrot; before the distinctive calls of several Ivory-breasted Pittas brought our focus shuddering back to that species. We worked our way along the track, where Sam went in with John, while Karen lingered on the trail and was afforded cracking looks at this immaculate, and immense, pitta. Eventually though, through moving position both John and Sam enjoyed quality looks at the species too. We, like any sane birder, were very happy to have both Wallace’s Standardwing and the pitta in the bag before the end of our first morning’s birding on Halmahera. Working our way further along a part of the logging track which is now undriveable due to a large part of the road having collapsed, a massive rainforest tree was in fruit and was attracting good numbers (well over twenty birds), of Blyth’s Hornbills, which seemed way too overexcited for this to be in response to a tree being in fruit. Then, suddenly, a large dark shape passed overhead and landed right beside the hornbill- packed tree: Gurney’s Eagle (photo left). The eagle caused a lot of commotion among the hornbills although it largely sat there unconcerned before, finally, moving away on deep, powerful, wing beats. As we headed back to our lodging near midday, we stopped along the way for a small cluster of Spectacled (Moluccan) Imperial-Pigeons that were gathered in a bare tree close to the resort.
After our magnificent, landmark, morning for the tour, the afternoon was predictably quieter (as afternoons typically are anyway). Moving north from the resort, the car was soon pulled over for a small mob of Long-billed Crows, a very strange corvid indeed with its outsized bill and broad, “barn door” wing-shape. Our next stop required us to don willies (i.e. rubber boots), and wade into a roadside Sago swamp, the haunt of one of Halmahera’s near mythical, and most rarely seen endemics: Invisible (Drummer) Rail. Over recent weeks leading to this tour, two different Tropical Birding tours had managed to find this species at this swamp so we felt a little more confident than we otherwise would have. However, finding this rail is never easy, and we were all nervous and alert to any movement just the same. Sam had recorded the bird’s calls weeks before and we set about getting a reaction from the bird. Nothing was heard back, but we waited, impatiently, for what felt like an age. Trying a different set of calls, suddenly the bird appeared almost right on top of us. It had clambered down a near vertical limestone forested slope and nearly landed on us in the process. After one brief, but incredibly close, look
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Tropical Birding Trip Report Sulawesi & Halmahera September 2013 we tried the tape again, and once again the bird appeared within a matter of feet of us before disappearing off into the forest and was lost from view. We were ecstatic, we had seen one of the island’s most rarely seen birds and, albeit brief, we had seen it very close indeed. Flushed with success we moved on to an area of higher ridges, where the birding was slow, after a much-delayed arrival (due to landslide related road works). However, we did find our first Moluccan Cuckooshrike, (photo below), and a perched juvenile and adult Variable Goshawk. Lingering after dark we had hoped to find a Moluccan Boobook, but on this night, like all nights in the area, no calls were heard at all.
12th September Halmahera: WEDA area
At the start of our second full day in the area, we set about righting a wrong from the previous few days; we badly needed to get a proper look at a Moluccan Owlet-Nightjar. Luckily, the bird played its part to perfection that morning, the bird soon being picked up by our local guide as it flew in to an open perch, visible from the entrance track into the resort.
We drove off to search for Dusky Scrubfowl, in an area we had visited before, a species that, while common, is difficult to see due to being one of the most popular species for hunting on the island. Before we reached the spot though a close-calling Black-chinned Whistler forced us out of the vehicle early. Soon after a gorgeous black-and-gold male was seen at close quarters. We had barely finished with this stunning bird when the low whistles of a Red-bellied (Blue-breasted) Pitta were heard emanating from a close patch of forest. John and I wandered in and got some brief, though good looks, then dropped back to the road where all of us got cracking looks at the same bird that perched up and simply glowed back at us with its iridescent blue breast and solid crimson belly. The standout bird from a walk through the scrubfowl-less scrubfowl area was a fine pair of Variable Dwarf-Kingfishers, more Sombre Kingfishers, and two short views of different Moluccan Goshawks. Further Blue-capped and Gray-headed Fruit- Doves were also welcome. Close to the end of the morning we had good looks at a Halmahera Swiftlet hawking low over a forest clearing. On the way back to our resort we checked many dead trees for any sign of a Purple Dollarbird but merely turned up healthy numbers of Common Dollarbirds in the
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Tropical Birding Trip Report Sulawesi & Halmahera September 2013 process. We did though find one snag with a pair of displaying Blue-and-white Kingfishers perched on top of it.
In the afternoon we set out with some very clear targets in mind, (Scarlet- breasted Fruit-Dove, Chattering Lory, Purple Dollarbird, Dusky Scrubfowl and Moluccan Scops-Owl); and, after the relatively slow morning’s walk, were welcomed by some fantastic late afternoon birding leading to almost all of our increasingly fine-tuned wish list being found. We had searched in vain for Scarlet-breasted Fruit-Dove at several stake-outs over the past few days, but finally got a reaction from a bird at one of the sites we had visited earlier that day, when this gorgeous, Technicolor dove flew in and landed on a perch to be scoped for some time. The same area held another Spectacled Monarch too. In the morning we had been teased by a calling Chattering Lory, which led us to a captive bird tied to a tree. However, in the afternoon, a return visit to a fruiting tree, which again was filled largely with Violet-necked Lorys, finally attracted a Chattering Lory too that flew in and landed beside them providing a perfect location for scope views. We were feeling giddy after this early success and, once again, began surveying all the many dead snags in the area for any sign of the dollarbird. Hours passed with many a dollarbird seen, though all of them being the decidedly more common, Common Dollarbird. Then, finally, at our last possible dead tree of the afternoon there was a super pair of deep purple Azure Rollers or Purple Dollarbirds (photos, this page). We lapped up the moment; we had certainly earned it, and had looked
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Tropical Birding Trip Report Sulawesi & Halmahera September 2013 at enough Common Dollarbirds for a lifetime in the process. Our late afternoon success and long period photographing the birds meant that we reached the area for the Dusky Scrubfowl very late, but still persevered in case we could find one of the them going to roost belatedly. This was our one failure on our wish list that afternoon, though once darkness had fell we found our final target, the endemic Moluccan Scops-Owl without too much trouble, which, like the dollarbirds, was very photogenic indeed (photo, next page).
13th September Halmahera: Weda area
Our final, full day in the area provided more success, although with very few remaining targets left we could afford ourselves a little downtime in the humid middle of the day to enjoy the comforts of the fans and sea breeze within our cabins!
One of the tougher available endemics on this tour was thought to be the Halmahera (Flame-breasted) Flowerpecker, which is most easily found in the tall acacias on the ridges north of the resort; and so that is where were taken that morning. It did not take long though for Karen to find one of these red-spotted birds within one of the sprawling trees which was loaded with Black and Olive-backed Sunbirds, and Red-flanked Lorikeets too. We only had two other targets in the foothills, where we spent the morning, 18 www.tropicalbirding.com +1-409-515-0514 [email protected] Page
Tropical Birding Trip Report Sulawesi & Halmahera September 2013 and pretty soon after we found the first of several Halmahera Cuckooshrikes too, which were followed by our final target, Dusky Myzomela, soon after. The same large trees also regularly played host to a pair of Rufous-bellied Trillers too. By now of course, being our fourth day on the island of Halmahera, repeats were frequent, with a superb Scarlet-breasted Fruit-Dove coming in so quick it almost hit us to a burst of playback; Spangled Drongos and Rainbow Bee-eaters also found in the highlands reflecting the Aussie influence to the avifauna of this Spice Island (neither occur across the Molucca Sea in Sulawesi); and several Spotted Kestrels were noted again too. Cream-throated White-eyes were both vocal and visible in that highland area that morning too, along with another pass overhead from a Great- billed Parrot. A Gray’s Grasshopper-Warbler in the same area would have been a nice trip addition but had to remain as a “heard only” as it could not be persuaded to move out of deep cover. During a slightly longer lunch recess (what with few birds now remaining gettable from this area), Sam and John explored the immediate area around the resort where Black-naped and Great Crested Terns were found offshore, while on dry land Brush Cuckoo sung prominently from within the resort, while Blyth’s Hornbills noisily landed in the trees behind our cabins, where a calling Variable Goshawk also dropped in for a time. Of course, Willie-wagtail, was an ever-present in the resort grounds and afforded some great photo opportunities as it declared its territory from right beside our cabins (photo below).
In the afternoon we decided to have a final stab at finding a Dusky Scrubfowl, and so decided to return to the standardwing lek, where upon a pair of Dusky Scrubfowls walked across our path on the way in. Not
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Tropical Birding Trip Report Sulawesi & Halmahera September 2013 all could see them before they melted back in the forest. Although, by hanging around the area, this same pair gave several walk by views, allowing all to chalk them onto their life lists by the close of business. Although we’d all previously seen Common Paradise-Kingfishers in Papua New Guinea we could not resist trying to burgeon an impressive list of kingfishers further, and after a little trial and error a striking Common Paradise-Kingfisher came in and perched close by. John and I could not resist either sneaking to the lek site and checking if the Wallace’s Standardwings would come in the afternoon. Their performances did not match what we had witnessed in the morning, although they were, of course, very impressive all the same. While we were gone Karen enjoyed not only the scrubfowls, but an incredibly close Ivory-breasted Pitta that bounced past her.
14th September Halmahera: GALELA
With few realistic targets now possible near the resort, we all enjoyed some much needed rest and a rare lie in, which was also tactical, as we had a potentially long, and grueling, night search ahead that very evening for one of Halmahera’s most wanted birds, the Moluccan Scrubfowl. After our relatively sane breakfast time, we departed north; (picking up our ninth kingfisher of the trip with an Azure Kingfisher on a deserted roadside pool, and seeing birds such as Black Sunbird, Spectacled Imperial-Pigeon, Dusky Myzomela, Moustached Treeswift and more Long-billed Crows en-route); and re-connected with our original ground crew in the town of Sofifi where we enjoyed a reunion over a hearty lunch in town, before departing for Tobelo, our next base for the night. Due to some car issues en route we were
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Tropical Birding Trip Report Sulawesi & Halmahera September 2013 delayed in arriving in Tobelo, and so quickly checked in, and carried on north to the smaller beach town of Galela. John and Karen were chuffed to arrive in time, as the sun was setting, so they could take photos of the offshore volcano, from where the daily exodus of Moluccan Scrubfowls occur, which then fly over the open sea, and land on the black sand beach at Galela in order to lay their eggs in the warm volcanic sands, which serve to self-incubate the eggs of this strange bird. We then met with another small crew, which would transfer us over to the secluded beach, where they people have been collecting the eggs of the scrubfowl for centuries. We drifted through the mangroves and arrived on the beach as it was bathed in moonlight, well lit by the full moon in attendance that night. Shortly after alighting from our small boats we enjoyed a close flyby from one of the incessantly calling Large-tailed Nightjars, and set about trying to find the scrubfowl. A few brief views were had before another large bird group arrived. We all waited patiently together on the beach in darkness while the local guide searched the further corners of the beach for any sign of the bird. Then, we all noticed a spotlight, which was being held unflinchingly and continually in the one position, which could only mean one thing. Thankfully, when we all reached this far section of the beach the Moluccan Scrubfowl was perched just meters away from us all still (photo, page before), allowing some great looks and photos. We then happily retired to our hotel beds earlier than expected (pre-midnight!), and very happy with the success of our night safari.
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Tropical Birding Trip Report Sulawesi & Halmahera September 2013
15th September Halmahera to Ternate
A final morning was spent on Halmahera, making our way back to the dock at Sidangoli, (being stunned by another fortuitous Rufous-tailed Bush-hen crossing the road in another area), and picking up a final new raptor for the island, with a Pacific Baza cruising the hills above town, which also held the usual Brahminy Kites, a Variable (Gray-throated) Goshawk, and a Gurney’s Eagle all also taking advantage of the rising thermals too, as well as a nice pair of perched White Cockatoos. We took a speedboat back to Ternate, and welcomed the luxury of a top end hotel overlooking the harbor. The journey back was a little more eventful than the way out with three Bulwer’s Petrels seen (including one very close to the boat), more Red-necked Phalaropes, as well as a handful of Great Frigatebirds, and a single Bridled Tern. With no new birds available to us on the island we enjoyed some of the scenic spots on the island in the afternoon, (as well as Halmahera Swiftlet circling overhead), and encountered the nutmeg and clove trees that led to the original fame of these islands back in the 18th Century. By special request we went on the hunt for Masked Flying-Fox in the evening, which our local guides had worked tirelessly to find while we were birding on Halmahera, and after a time, a fruiting tree drew in a very confiding individual that remained hanging there for some time (photo, page before).
16th September Ternate to Tangkoko
After a hearty buffet breakfast in our fancy hotel on Ternate, we took a short drive to the tiny airport terminal, from where we took the short flight back to Manado, on the northern arm of the Sulawesi “starfish”. There was no time to waste though, as we were quickly on the road east to the Tangkoko-Duasadaura reserve, (more commonly just referred to as Tangkoko), a mere two-hours drive away. Despite intense heat near the time of our arrival we made time for a short roadside stop along the way at a famed lookout, where we still managed to see a stunning male Knobbed Hornbill panting in a tree, and tens of Finch-billed Mynas (Grosbeak Starlings) were also conspicuous there too. We arrived in time for lunch, and to find, frustratingly, the promised air-conditioning in the stifling heat was not functioning at our simple lodge. After extra fans were deployed, we took in lunch, and took in a pair of smashing roosting Sulawesi Scops-Owls right in the garden by the restaurant (photo below). These were to become a daily feature during our three-day stay in the area. We were now on our local guide’s home turf, and he quickly set about arranging an afternoon boat ride into the mangroves. While
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Tropical Birding Trip Report Sulawesi & Halmahera September 2013 more birds, and mammals, in general are available in the park itself, a boat trip was necessary for some specialties.
Tangkoko is famed for its extraordinary diversity of kingfishers, thus it was of little surprise that kingfishers were to provide our first major target on site; the mangroves hold the well-endowed Great- billed (Black-billed) Kingfisher, (photo below). This can be a troublesome bird on occasions requiring more than one boat ride to find it; on this one we saw three different birds with minimal fuss; the first being found by our local guide soon after we turned the boat into the mangrove-fringed channel from the Molucca Sea. Some of our other targets were less accommodating: Ruddy Kingfishers remained firmly silent and hidden, and it took some time before we eventually tracked down a small group of White- rumped Cuckooshrikes. Other additions in the area included our first Pale-Blue Monarchs strangely observed within the mangroves, from the comfort of the boat; our first Common Kingfisher and Slender-billed Crows; a trip exclusive Pink-necked (Green) Pigeon; a female Blue Rock-Thrush standing sentinel on a beachside rock on the way out; and dozens of Pied Imperial-Pigeons fluttering around an offshore islet. In the late afternoon we docked on a beach within the park boundary, and walked into a scrubby area where some brief views of Isabelline Bush-hens were obtained before dusk fell and was greeted with the hoped-for Sulawesi Nightjar just a short time later.
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Tropical Birding Trip Report Sulawesi & Halmahera September 2013
17th September Tangkoko
We had two full days ahead of us in Tangkoko, the shining light among the protected areas in Sulawesi, where local guides have many great stakeouts both for birds and mammals too. One of the first birds of the morning though was not a stake out at all, but a complete surprise, when an immature Vinous- breasted Sparrowhawk was found sitting in a dead tree. This was our third endemic accipiter on Sulawesi, a difficult group to complete, although ironically the single species we were by then missing, Sulawesi Goshawk, is the most regularly seen of the lot! The sparrowhawk was flighty and we tried following it to another tree but sadly never saw it again. In the process of searching though we found our first Purple-winged Roller standing sentry, and discovered a fruiting tree with some attendant Black- naped Fruit-Doves, including this gorgeous male (photo below). This clearing within the forest soon echoed with the hoots of a White-faced Cuckoo-Dove (Sulawesi Black Pigeon), which with some persuasion, was brought into the trees overhead. This was to prove our only encounter of the tour. Some vine tangles nearby held a pair of Bay Coucals within them.
Having worked the edge for a while with great success, we opted to head deeper into the forest interior, for a range of species not possible by birding the open areas at the fringes. Chief among our target were, of course, the host of kingfishers found within the protected area. It did not take long to find the most conspicuous and abundant of these, with the first of eight different encounters with Green-backed Kingfishers during the morning. Its scarcer cousin though, Lilac-cheeked Kingfisher proved much more elusive, and could not be found in an extensive walk through their well-known favored haunts. Our time was far from wasted though as we picked up several movements ahead of us working their way along the leaf litter, which proved to be first, a party of Sulawesi Babblers, then, better still, a spritely pair of Red-bellied Pittas. We had the services of several local guides on this day, which worked well; one of them being with us searching one area, while the other went in pursuit of some of the other species elsewhere. All the time both were on constant contact via cellphone when needed!
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Tropical Birding Trip Report Sulawesi & Halmahera September 2013
While searching for kingfishers we stumbled upon a group of five Spectral Tarsiers sitting just a few feet off the ground (photo right). One of them, atypically, zipped away at lightning speed, while the other four remained, on a rainforest buttress, where they memorably lined up in a row, providing us with a killer photo opp which we took plenty of time to appreciate. The Lilac-cheeked Kingfisher continued to be elusive, but another mammal target at Tangkoko was soon available, when we got the call from one of the other guides who’d found an amazing Sulawesi Bear-Cuscus a short distance away (photo page 55). We raced over there an enjoyed this odd marsupial staring down at us from the forest canopy. While we watched the cuscus we were surprised to see a splendid Sualwesi Hawk-Eagle sail and land right next to us! On the way back to the vehicle to return to the lodge for lunch our local guide, amazingly, found another bear-cuscus, and we had to backtrack when a call from another birding group in the area led us to a superb perched Sulawesi Dwarf-Kingfisher! The morning ended with a mid-forest pursuit of a calling Pied Cuckooshrike, arguably one of the trickier endemics on the island, which resulted with some great last gasp looks.
Back at the lodge for lunch, we noted again the pair of Sulawesi Scops-Owls, although this time they were poorly positioned relative to the day before. In the afternoon our initial plans had to be shelved when heavy afternoon rains moved in. So instead we went to a roadside lookout, with a convenient shelter to take advantage of while we waited out the rain. We remained there for the afternoon, and picked up some great birds, including a quartet of imperial-pigeons perching up after the heavy rain showers: Green, Gray-headed, Silver-tipped and White-bellied Imperial-Pigeons all in attendance in good numbers, as well as several Gray-cheeked Pigeons too. The same viewpoint also produced both Knobbed Hornbills and a group of four Sulawesi Dwarf Hornbills.
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Tropical Birding Trip Report Sulawesi & Halmahera September 2013
18th September Tangkoko
After a highly successful first day within the park, our goals for the second day were abundantly clear: to find Lilac-cheeked Kingfisher, Ochre-bellied Boobook, and Celebes Crested Macaque, which were now sitting right at the top of Karen and John’s shopping list.
Although these targets were clear, and they would be best served by a walk within the park itself, we decided to begin the day, with a dawn visit to a scenic lookout, which can be spectacular for parrots, pigeons and other canopy species. Our visit to the lookout was excellent, with the promise myriad of parrots and pigeons revealing themselves over several, action-packed hours on site. We were greeted by a new species right on arrival, when a small noisy group of Yellow-breasted Racquet-tail, which were later supported by a perched group of Golden-mantled Racquet-tails just a few trees away too. New parrots continued with some great, extended views of perched Large Hanging-Parrots right from the lookout, and some quality close-ups of Azure-rumped (Blue-backed) Parrots too, in addition to our very first Ornate Lorikeets of the tour. Five species of parrots all seen well and perched surely proved what a great spot this is! Pigeons were also well-represented, and although we had seen them all previously no one was complaining about further views of Gray-cheeked Pigeons, and Black-naped and Superb Fruit-Doves, and Silver-tipped, White-bellied, Green, and Gray-headed Imperial- Pigeons. We had heard several Black-billed Koels at several sites on Sulawesi, and finally on this morning we put this “thorn-in-our-side” to bed, when we had rare views of this furtive bird in the open, (photo above). Several more Purple-winged Rollers decorating the dead snags were welcomed too, as was a large group of TEN Sulawesi Dwarf Hornbills, which just would not leave us alone that morning! Gray-streaked Flycatcher was a rather belated addition in the area, as was a single male Plain- throated (Brown-throated) Sunbird; while a handful of White-necked and Finch-billed Mynas, Black-naped Orioles, and Yellow-billed Malkohas passing by the lookout were also notable. With our major targets still in the back of our minds, and activity dropping, we decided to drive back in to the park itself and head into the forest interior…
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Tropical Birding Trip Report Sulawesi & Halmahera September 2013
As we drove into the park, the vehicle was brought to a halt for a Stephan’s Dove that froze on the leaf litter just yards away (photo left). However, the biggest obstruction to our movements was the large troop of Celebes Crested Macaques that we ran into right near the park entrance (photo below). We were able to walk in among some forty or so animals in this habituated group, which fed, mated, groomed, and fought, all around us, with no care whatsoever for our presence. We spent considerable time watching their absorbing behavior, and photographing many individuals within the group, before they moved off in the direction of the beach. Moving inside the forest we picked up a Tabon Scrubfowl sitting quietly on the forest floor, before beginning the search, once more for the Lilac-cheeked Kingfisher, which was proving atypically elusive for us on the tour. Once again, multiple Green-backed Kingfishers (photo title page) were found during our search, leading to our best views yet of the species, which showed at very close quarters.
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Tropical Birding Trip Report Sulawesi & Halmahera September 2013
Finally, after checking many regular areas for them unsuccessfully, we inadvertently disturbed a day- roosting Ochre-bellied Hawk-Owl (Boobook) which flew up into a low tree and glared angrily back at us as only an owl can (photo below). As we walked back in search for the ever-elusive Lilac-cheeked one of our local guides called us over for a fantastic Red-backed Thrush, which fed in front of us for some time. A great morning was capped off perfectly, when just a short time before lunch a Lilac-cheeked Kingfisher was found (photo page 2), and remained, quietly sitting in the forest understory for great looks and great photos. On the way back for lunch our way was blocked by a Barred Rail that chose to bathe in a puddle in the middle of the track (photo, page 33). A more perfect morning could not have been planned.
With John sitting in 14 kingfishers for the trip, and hearing that a Ruddy Kingfisher had been seen near our lodge, we could not resist tipping John’s personal kingfisher list to FIFTEEN with that bird in the afternoon (the rest of us missed the earlier Scaly Kingfisher he had seen on Lore Lindu’s Anaso track. Offshore we added Lesser Frigatebird, noted several Pacific Reef-Herons, a Collared Kingfisher perched on the black rocks, and a soaring White-bellied Sea-Eagle. In the evening we tried for one of the hardest endemics of the entire tour, Minahassa Masked Owl, but, despite much effort and much ground covered no responses were heard.
19th September Tangkoko to Kotamobagu
Much of the day was spent traveling to the city of Kotamobagu, our base for exploring the lowland forest patches of Dumoga-Bone National Park in the coming days. However, we had time to spend looking principally for Pygmy Hanging-Parrot in the morning before our departure. Karen made this short work though, finding a wonderful hanging-parrot feeding in a roadside tree just a little above eye level from our lofty position. Well over 30 Large Hanging-Parrots and were also notable in the area. Working our way west we birded some rice paddies which yielded many trip additions like Common Redshank, Wood Sandpiper, Sunda Teal, Eastern Yellow Wagtail, Common Greenshank, and Marsh Sandpiper. Arriving in Kotamobagu in the late afternoon, we dropped off our bags in our town hotel, and went straight out for a nesting Sulawesi Masked Owl on the edge of town (photo, next page). On arrival in a large palm plantation we were greeted with rather unsatisfactory views of two chicks heads at eh nest
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Tropical Birding Trip Report Sulawesi & Halmahera September 2013 hole. The suddenly, the hulking adult flew up into a neighboring palm for superb daytime views that would be very hard to beat of this powerfully built owl.
20th September Dumoga-Bone
Now officially known as the rather clumsy name of Bogani Nani Wartabone National Park, for the purposes of this report I will use its traditional name, and the one that most birders know it by, Dumoga- Bone. The park itself is very disjointed, with several remaining patches of forest in this area well divided from each other. We started, as most birding trips do, for obvious reasons, in the Tambun area. This area is famed amongst visiting birders, as the location of the most accessible site of breeding Maleos in Sulawesi, arguably Sulawesi’s signature bird. This was to be, of course, our primary target for the morning. On arriving at the site, and meeting with a couple who were returning for a second day, after spending an entire day and coming up empty-handed the day before, our nerves were heightened. A short time after dawn, and several Great Eared-Nightjars had passed overhead; we heard the low guttural calls of a Maleo calling from up the hill. We pursued the sound and walked into the forest, but the bird remained upslope and out of sight, before it fell silent. The morning was spent birding this tiny forest patch, hoping to stumble upon a Maleo, but failing in that regard. However, an even rarer bird had been making the headlines at this site prior to arrival, and, just as descended the hill to have a good breakfast spread on site we were quickly called away for the Blue-faced Rail, which had just walked out onto the open path for us to watch at our leisure. This bird is extremely seldom seen, and so we were 29 www.tropicalbirding.com +1-409-515-0514 [email protected] Page
Tropical Birding Trip Report Sulawesi & Halmahera September 2013 ecstatic to pick it up (photo below). We had come here essentially for the Maleo, but, strangely, ended the morning without Tambun’s most famous bird, but with something altogether rarer instead! Other birds that morning included a pair of Ashy Woodpeckers; yet more Sulawesi Dwarf Hornbills (amazingly the fourth time we had seen them on the tour); and a Green-backed Kingfisher that joined us over our breakfast in the field.
In the middle of the day the heat and humidity rose to near “unbirdable” levels, and so we retired to a simple, local guesthouse, where a good lunch spread had been prepared by our thoughtful local crew. We also visited a local wetland where over a hundred Wandering Whistling-Ducks and several Sunda Teal were found. We plotted our next “assault” on the Maleo for later that afternoon, when we hoped we might find one heading to roost in the trees. In the meantime, we spent a little time along a forested road in another area of Dumoga-Bone, and quickly picked up the hoped-for Ivory-breasted Woodswallow cruising the skies above the forest; saw another Gray-sided Flowerpiercer or two; and then were surprised by a small group of Gorontalo Macaques foraging alongside the road (surprised as they are not often seen at all). Things got stranger still, when a Spot-tailed Goshawk darted in and dispersed the macaques! With the afternoon drawing on, we returned to Tambun, for a final afternoon attempt at the Maleo. Things seemed ominously quiet, until suddenly a clatter of wings led us to a super Maleo perched up in a large rainforest tree overhead (photo, next page). It peered down nervously at us initially, jerking its head back and forth, and pacing along the branch, before calming down somewhat and remaining there, so that we could view it at a safe distance. A superb, last-gasp, experience!
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Tropical Birding Trip Report Sulawesi & Halmahera September 2013
21st September Dumoga-Bone
By this point, we were continually fine tuning what we were looking for, and where to go in response to our changing list of avian targets. And so we returned to the Molibagu Road, where we managed to find our three primary targets, without too much fuss: a Sulawesi (Crested) Myna was found by the roadside long before the site we expected to have our best chance (a surprise Lilac-cheeked Kingfisher appearing in the same area too, a scarcity at this site); a Sulawesi Goshawk remained rooted to a perch for extended ‘scope views; and then after a little “off-roading” we worked ourselves into a position where we managed to call in a Maroon-chinned Fruit-Dove, which had proved frustratingly elusive until then. The Sulawesi Goshawk was especially, pleasing as it completed one of the toughest bird groups for the tour; the 4 endemic accipiters on Sulawesi (with Spot-tailed and Small Sparrowhawks seen in Lore Lindu, and immature Vinous- breasted Sparrowhawk seen in Tangkoko). Strange that the last one ended up being one of the more regularly seen of the quartet! Indeed, the area was notable for raptors, with Sulawesi Serpent-Eagle, Rufous-bellied Eagle, Black Kite (a surprisingly scarce bird on Sulawesi), and Brahminy Kite all seen along the road there too. Other notable birds for the day were our only Eastern Crimson Sunbirds of the trip, several gaudy males of which were seen; a number of showy Black-naped Orioles in the open treetops beside the road; a handful of Black-naped Fruit-Doves visiting some fruiting trees in the area; and further, welcome sightings of dramatic Knobbed Hornbills, which had felt like constant companions during our time in the lowlands. However, the other standout moment from the morning came when we were basking in the afterglow of the Maroon-chinned Fruit-Dove, when a tiny bird landed in the tree in front of us, which proved to be a stunning, and incredibly close Pygmy Hanging-Parrot which left us thrilled with the quality of the sighting, which coupled with our earlier excellent viewing (thanks to Karen) meant we had been charmed as far as this species was concerned on the tour, which can be one of the more difficult birds to find on this tour, let alone, see well. We also spent a little time in some rice paddies that produced some small groups of munias, both Chestnut and Black-faced Munias being involved, while one paddy yielded a pair of White-browed Crakes feeding in the open.
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Tropical Birding Trip Report Sulawesi & Halmahera September 2013
With our primary targets under the belt early in the day we were only too please to take advantage of an early finish, and some downtime back at the hotel, in the knowledge that the earliest start (pre-3am!) of the tour beckoned the following day for Gunung Ambang.
22nd September Gunung Ambang
Leaving well before first light, we departed the city of Kotamobagu for the near mountain of Ambang, as this was to provide our only chance for one of the most local endemics of the tour: Matinan Flycatcher. This would also offer a further chance at Scaly-breasted Kingfisher, which, not unusually, proved elusive and completely unresponsive during our early morning vigil, and we would have to leave empty-handed as far as that bird was concerned. A further early morning frustration was also experienced with the other “race” (a future split?) of Cinnabar Hawk-Owl, which was not heard at all during our pre-dawn visit. Thankfully, our primary target, Matinan Flycatcher was more co-operative, with two separate individuals of this rare bird being seen on site. At present, this is the only reliable site for the species anywhere, an unfortunate, and perhaps desperate, situation considering the open deforestation going on at this national park! We did well again for raptors on this day too, with a super, low-flying Black Eagle high on the mountain, and both Spotted Harrier and Rufous-bellied Eagle seen around the base. An assortment of familiar mountain birds were seen which we had experienced near the start of the tour around Lore Lindu too, including Red-eared Fruit-Dove, and another pair of the superb Purple-bearded Bee-eater to name but a few. The mixed flocks held some classic montane endemic species, like Sulawesi Drongo, Rusty-flanked (-bellied) Fantail, the omnipresent Sulawesi Leaf-Warbler, Citrine Canary-Flycatcher, and a beady-eyed Cerulean Cuckooshrike, (photo above), as well as Yellow-billed Malkoha. As we left the mountain, we picked up a calling Zitting Cisticola, as well as further Collared Kingfishers, and our first Gray Wagtails of the tour. On the return journey to our base in Kotamobagu we also added Oriental Darter to the list, around a large lake.
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Tropical Birding Trip Report Sulawesi & Halmahera September 2013
23rd – 24th September Kotamobagu to Gunung Mahawu
Our final stop of the tour was a mountain, Gunung Mahawu, close to the capital of North Sulawesi, Manado. En route to the area we surveyed the rice paddies for birds seeing Wandering Whistling- Ducks, Sunda Teal, Purple Heron, and multiple Whiskered Terns. A large lake surrounded by muddy paddies near the mountain revealed a single Comb-crested Jacana, several Buff-banded Rails and White-browed Crakes, in addition to both Eurasian and Dusky Moorhens sharing the same pool. We also picked up further Black Eagles and a Common Kingfisher on the journey too. On the mountain the star performer was meant to be Scaly-breasted Kingfisher, but despite moving on site pre-dawn, no birds were heard at all. However, we had some great looks at two Isabelline Bush-hens prowling a mountain track at close quarters, and several Crimson-crowned Flowerpeckers were also seen well on site (along with the more widespread Yellow-sided Flowerpecker too). Other birds seen on our final session on the island, which included a dramatic setting overlooking a volcanic crater, before our return to Manado for flights out, included now familiar endemics such as Yellow-billed Malkoha, Sulphur-bellied Whistler, Sulawesi Babbler, and several gorgeous male Sulawesi Blue-Flycatchers; as well as several showy Citrine Canary-Flycatchers, which closed out this endemic-fueled tour, which produced well over 100 lifers for the experienced world travelers for which it was set up. I for one long to return there soon!
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Tropical Birding Trip Report Sulawesi & Halmahera September 2013
BIRD & MAMMAL LISTS:
BIRDS
The taxonomy of the bird list follows: Clements, James F., White, Anthony W., and Fitzpatrick, John W. The Clements Checklist of Birds of the World. Cornell, 2007. This list is up to date with the major changes published by Cornell up until 2012.
ME denotes an endemic to the Moluccas.
SE denotes an endemic to the Sulawesi subregion.
H denotes a species that was HEARD, but not seen.
GO denotes a species that was seen by the GUIDE ONLY.
120 Endemics recorded; 117 seen
DUCKS, GEESE and WATERFOWL: ANATIDAE
Wandering Whistling-Duck Dendrocygna arcuata Around a hundred birds were seen on a marsh near Dumoga Bone. Sunda Teal Anas gibberifrons Many small groups were seen in and around Dumoga-Bone, and one marsh held around one hundred birds.
MEGAPODES: MEGAPODIIDAE
Maleo Macrocephalon maleo SE We were made to sweat on this one during our first day at Tambun (Dumoga-Bone); when calling birds refused to come downslope into viewable range. A morning was spent combing the forest without success. However, we decided to persevere and return in the afternoon, when a bird was disturbed as it clambered up into the trees to go to roost, where it remained for fantastic views until we left, most satisfied with a long, great look at one of Sulawesi’s “signature birds”. ONE OF THE BIRDS OF THE TOUR, such were the views, and so odd is the bird. Moluccan Scrubfowl Megapodius wallacei This species comes to ay its eggs within the warm, black volcanic sands of the beach at Galela each night. However, the precise timing of this appears to depend on the moon cycle, and local conditions. Thus any search for it has to be prepared to go into the early hours of the morning to ensure success. We were prepared for this, but in the end it was unnecessary. Under a near full moon, allegedly conditions the birds are most happy to land on the beach under, we watched in dismay, initially, as several jittery birds failed to settle. Then, after another large bird group arrived on the hunt for the bird we were treated to a long, extreme close-up of a megapode stunned in the spotlight for truly unbeatable looks. Tabon (Philippine) Scrubfowl Megapodius cumingii A single bird was skillfully picked out from the dark forest floor in Tangkoko, by our experienced local bird guide. Dusky Scrubfowl Megapodius freycinet Heard regularly on Halmahera, although devilishly difficult to see. A pair were seen, finally, on our final afternoon near Weda, when they were seen several times near the Standardwing lek site. 34 www.tropicalbirding.com +1-409-515-0514 [email protected] Page
Tropical Birding Trip Report Sulawesi & Halmahera September 2013
PHEASANTS, GROUSE and ALLIES: PHASIANIDAE
Blue-breasted Quail Coturnix chinensis One was flushed in open country within Dumoga-Bone. *Also known as King Quail. Red Junglefowl Gallus gallus The bizarre sight of a Red Junglefowl call from high in a rainforest tree greeted us on our first morning in Karaenta in South Sulawesi.
SHEARWATERS and PETRELS: FRIGATIDAE
Bulwer’s Petrel Bulweria bulwerii None were seen on the crossing out to Halmahera from Ternate, although on the return leg we encountered three different birds, including one which passed very close by the speedboat.
FRIGATEBIRDS: FRIGATIDAE
Great Frigatebird Fregata minor Several birds were seen around the harbor on the Spice Island of Ternate, including from our hotel overlooking the city. Lesser Frigatebird Fregata ariel A single bird was found by John circling offshore from Tangkoko.
ANHINGAS: ANHINGIDAE
Oriental Darter Anhinga melanogaster 5 were seen on a large lake near Kotamobagu.
HERONS, EGRETS & BITTERNS: ARDEIDAE
Black Bittern Ixobbrychus flavicollis GO One was seen, by Sam only, on Halmahera. Purple Heron Ardea purpurea A single bird was seen at Lake Tambing in Lore Lindu, with further, regular sightings of singles around Dumoga-Bone. Great Egret Ardea alba 4-5 sightings, mostly in North Sulawesi. Intermediate Egret Mesophyx intermedia Scattered sightings in North Sulawesi, within rice paddies near Kotamobagu. Little Egret Egretta garzetta Small numbers were seen in rice paddies in North Sulawesi. Pacific Reef Heron Egretta sacra 3 sightings: near Tobelo in Halmahera, in Tangkoko, and on a journey along the Minahassa Peninsula in North Sulawesi. Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis Scattered sightings throughout.
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Javan Pond-Heron Ardeola speciosa Small numbers were encountered regularly on Sulawesi. Striated Heron Butorides striata Just 2 sightings; on our first morning near Bantimurung in South Sulawesi, and another two were seen in the mangroves at Tangkoko. Black-crowned Night-Heron Nycticorax nycticorax A single bird flew out from roost and over the city of Makassar one evening.
OSPREY: PANDIONIDAE
Osprey Pandion haliaetus cristatus Seen twice on Halmahera. *These birds are of the cristatus race, which occurs in eastern Indonesia, New Guinea, Australia, and New Caledonia. This race is split off as EASTERN OSPREY Pandion cristatus on the IOC list.
HAWKS, EAGLES & KITES: ACCIPITRIDAE
Barred (Sulawesi) Honey-Buzzard Pernis celebensis celebensis SE A calling bird was seen in flight above the Sedoa Valley, near Lore Lindu . Pacific Baza Aviceda subcristata Just two birds were seen on our final morning on Halmahera, flying over the forest patches close to Sidangoli. Sulawesi Serpent-Eagle Spilornis rufipectus SE 2 birds were seen; at Karaenta Forest in South Sulawesi, and along the Molibagu Road (Dumoga-Bone) in North Sulawesi. Sulawesi Hawk-Eagle Nisaetus lanceolatus SE 4 sightings on the tour: along the Anaso Track (Lore Lindu), over the Sedoa Valley, and in Tangkoko. Rufous-bellied Eagle Lophotriorchis kienerii 3 sightings: One on the journey between Lore Lindu and Palu; 1 in Dumoga-Bone; and another at Gunung Ambang. Black Eagle Ictinaetus malayensis Recorded 3 times; a single en-route to Palu; another low-flying bird at Gunung Ambang; and 2 further birds en-route to Tomohon. Gurney’s Eagle Aquila gurneyi Two individuals seen on Halmahera; one perched bird near Weda which caused mayhem amongst the local Blyth’s Hornbill population, clearly perturbed by its continuing presence; and another flying over Sidangoli. Spotted Harrier Circus assimilis 1 flew low over the fields at the base of Gunung Ambang. Sulawesi Goshawk Accipiter griseiceps SE Prolonged perched views were had along the Molibagu Road, within Dumoga-Bone National Park. This was our final of the four endemic accipiters on Sulawesi, and completed a rarely achieved set for the tour. Chinese Sparrowhawk Accipiter soloensis A migrating bird flew over Gunung Mahawu on our final morning. *Also known as Chinese Goshawk. Spot-tailed Goshawk Accipiter trinotatus SE A pair were seen superbly on our first morning in Lore Lindu, around Danau Tambing; another was seen briefly diving aggressively at a Tonkin Macaque in Dumoga-Bone. 36 www.tropicalbirding.com +1-409-515-0514 [email protected] Page
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Variable Goshawk Accipiter hiogaster griseogularis ME 4 different birds were seen on Halmahera. This is sometimes split off, and therefore becomes a Moluccan endemic, as Grey-throated Goshawk A. griseogularis. Moluccan Goshawk Accipiter henicogrammus ME 2 different birds were seen around Weda on Halmahera, although both sightings were brief. Small Sparrowhawk Accipiter nanus SE Excellent, prolonged, views were had of a perched bird, near Lake Tambing in Lore Lindu. Vinous-breasted Sparrowhawk Accipiter rhodogaster SE A rusty-backed immature, with prominent dark-spotted upperparts, was seen in Tangkoko one morning. Black Kite Milvus migrans Only recorded in the Dumoga Bone/Gunung Ambang area of North Sulawesi, where a handful of birds were seen. Brahminy Kite Haliastur indicus Seen around a dozen times on the tour, at many different sites. White-bellied Sea-Eagle Haliaetus leucogaster Seen twice; at Dumoga-Bone and Tangokoko.
RAILS, GALLINULES & COOTS: RALLIDAE
Buff-banded Rail Gallirallus philippensis 4-5 sightings in the Kotamobagu/Dumoga-Bone area of North Sulawesi. Barred Rail Gallirallus torquatus Our best view involved a bird that decided to bathe in a puddle in the middle of the road at Tangkoko; another three birds were seen in Dumoga-Bone. Blue-faced Rail Gymnocrex rosenbergii SE One of the shock birds of the tour. Although Sam had heard of a bird being seen regularly over the week prior to our arrival at Tambun, we could not dare to consider the idea that it would stick around for our arrival. Thankfully, it did, and was seen even before breakfast as it fed, unconcernedly along a path in the forest. ONE OF THE BIRDS OF THE TOUR. Isabelline Bush-hen Amaurornis isabellina SE 2 were seen, rather poorly, at Tangkoko; the best views, typically, came on Gunung Mahawu, where two birds walked brazenly on to an open track. Rufous-tailed (Pale-vented) Bush-hen Amaurornis moluccana Usually, a frustratingly hard bird to see, like most bush-hens. However, within a short time of our first drive on Halmahera, a bird walked out on to the open tarmac, and even lingered there for super views; later on Halmahera, another did the same. We were extraordinarily lucky! White-browed Crake Porzana cinerea A pair of these birds were seen feeding in an open paddy in Dumoga-Bone, and a further two different birds were also seen near Tomohon. Invisible (Drummer) Rail Habroptila wallacii ME Having seen them near Weda Resort (Halmahera) on a scouting trip with Tropical Birding’s Keith Barnes in July, and then hearing that Keith had seen them gain on another Tropical Birding custom tour just a few weeks previous to this one; Sam was a little more bullish than would be expected in pursuit of this rarely seen, near mythical, species.
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Tropical Birding Trip Report Sulawesi & Halmahera September 2013
After a prolonged period of playback (using a call of the same bird recorded in July), with no hint of response from the bird, at the given Sago swamp, hope was dying, when suddenly the bird appeared literally within 15 feet of us, on two separate occasions, when both Karen and John were able to get brief, but very close up, views of one of these large rails. ONE OF THE BIRDS OF THE TOUR. Purple Swamphen Porphyrio porphyria Just two birds were seen near Dumoga Bone. Eurasian Moorhen Gallinula chloropus One was seen near Kotamobagu, and another few were seen near a large lake near Tomohon. Dusky Moorhen Gallinula tenebrosa 3 birds were seen in rice paddies near Tomohon.
JACANAS: JACANIDAE
Comb-crested Jacana Irediparra gallinacea Only Karen managed to see this one, on the fringes of a large lake near Tomohon.
SANDPIPERS & ALLIES: SCOLOPACIDAE
Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos Seen regularly in small numbers, mostly in rice paddies, in North Sulawesi. Gray-tailed Tattler Tringa brevipes A single was seen on two different days, on the same beach on Halmahera. Common Greenshank Tringa nebularia A couple of singles were seen in rice paddies in North Sulawesi. Marsh Sandpiper Tringa stagnatilis Commonly recorded in rice paddies around Dumoga-Bone and Kotamobagu. Wood Sandpiper Tringa glareola More then ten birds were seen in a set of rice paddies en-route to Kotamobagu. Common Redshank Tringa tetanus A single bird was seen in a rice paddy close to Kotamobagu. Whimbrel Numenius phaeopus Singles were seen twice on Halmahera, and another was seen on the mangrove boat trip in Tangkoko. Red-necked Phalarope Phalaropus lobatus Up to fifteen were seen during the boat crossings to and from Halmahera.
GULLS, TERNS & SKIMMERS: LARIDAE
Bridled Tern Onychoprion anaethetus One was seen on the crossing from Halmahera to Ternate, in the Spice Islands. Whiskered Tern Chlidonias hybrida Small numbers were seen hawking above the rice paddies in North Sulawesi. Black-naped Tern Sterna sumatrana A small, distant, group of these ghostly-white terns, was seen from our resort in Halmahera. Common Tern Sterna hirundo Several groups were seen around Halmahera.
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Tropical Birding Trip Report Sulawesi & Halmahera September 2013
Great Crested Tern Thalasseus bergii Small numbers of this tern were seen from our resort on Halmahera, and on the crossing from Ternate to that island.
PIGEONS & DOVES: COLUMBIDAE
Rock Pigeon Columba livia Just a handful of sightings, around urban areas. Red Collared-Dove Streptopelia tranquebarica One was seen during the journey to Kotamobagu from Manado; another was seen in Dumoga-Bone. Spotted Dove Streptopelia chinensis Seen around 8 times on the tour, mostly on journeys between sites. Slender-billed (Brown) Cuckoo-Dove Macropygia amboinensis Recorded regularly through the tour; seen on all but a few days of the trip. White-faced Cuckoo-Dove Turacoena manadensis SE Just one was seen, though seen well, on our first morning in Tangkoko. *Also known as Sulawesi Black Pigeon. Emerald Dove Chalcophaps indica One was seen in Dumoga-Bone. Stephan’s Dove Chalacophaps stephani Excellent views were had from the car, of a bird feeding on the ground during the drive in to Tangkoko one day. Zebra Dove Geopelia striata GO Sam saw one of these doves on the drive from Kotamobagu one day. Nicobar Pigeon Caloenas nicobarica GO Just Sam got a brief look at a bird that was flushed on the way into the Standardwing lek one afternoon. Pink-necked (Green) Pigeon Treron vernans A single bird was seen during our mangrove boat trip in Tangkoko. Gray-cheeked (Green) Pigeon Treron griseicauda Recorded on three different days of the tour; in the lower valleys below Lore Lindu in Central Sulawesi, and also at Tangkoko, in North Sulawesi. Red-eared Fruit-Dove Ptilinopus fischeri SE Excellent views of this handsome highland dove were had near the base of the Anaso Track in Lore Lindu, and another was seen on Gunung Ambang. Maroon-chinned Fruit-Dove Ptilinopus epla SE We were frustrated by a calling bird at Tambun on one day, but then picked up one in another area of Dumoga-Bone the following day. *This form has been split on the IOC checklist as Oberholser's Fruit-Dove, a Sulawesi endemic, and considered separate from the other forms in the Banggai and Sula Islands. Scarlet-breasted Fruit-Dove Ptilinopus bernsteinii ME This gorgeous dove was seen well twice on Halmahera, where prolonged scope views were had on one occasion. Superb Fruit-Dove Ptilinopus superbus Some great views were had around Lake Tambing, in Lore Lindu National Park, and another was seen at Tangkoko. *This species also occurs in New Guinea and Australia. Blue-capped Fruit-Dove Ptilinopus monacha ME Half a dozen or so sightings on Halmahera, included some good ‘scope looks too. 39 www.tropicalbirding.com +1-409-515-0514 [email protected] Page
Tropical Birding Trip Report Sulawesi & Halmahera September 2013
Gray-headed Fruit-Dove Ptilinopus hyogastrus ME Seen regularly in the Weda area of Halmahera. Black-naped Fruit-Dove Ptilinopus melanospilus Some excellent views were obtained at a fruiting tree in Tangkoko, while another few birds were later seen in Dumoga-Bone too. White-bellied Imperial-Pigeon Ducula forsteni SE This stunning pigeon was seen first below Lore Lindu in Central Sulawesi, then later in Tangkoko in North Sulawesi. Gray-headed Imperial-Pigeon Ducula radiate SE Some great looks were had at both Lore Lindu and Tangkoko, with great, side-by-side, comparisons with Green Imperial-Pigeon at the latter site. Green Imperial-Pigeon Ducula aenea The distinctive paulina race on Sulawesi, with a bright rusty collar, was seen regularly at Tangkoko, and again in Dumoga-Bone. Spectacled Imperial-Pigeon Ducula perspicillata ME Only recorded twice during our time on Halmahera. Also known as Moluccan Imperial-Pigeon. Cinnamon-bellied Imperial-Pigeon Ducula basilica ME Seen on three or four occasions on Halmahera. Pied Imperial-Pigeon Ducula bicolor Several groups were seen on Halmahera, and another 20 or so birds were seen on a small island offshore from Tangokoko. Silver-tipped Imperial-Pigeon Ducula luctuosa SE 4 birds were seen on our first morning, at Karaenta Forest Reserve; others were seen in greater numbers at Tangkoko. Sombre Pigeon Cryptophaps poecilorrhoa SE This seldom seen pigeon was skillfully found by our local guide, Idris, in Lore Lindu National Park.
CUCKOOS: CUCULIDAE
Himalayan/Oriental Cuckoo Cuculus saturates/optatus Singles were seen on Halmahera and at Tangkoko on Sulawesi. Sulawesi (Hawk-) Cuckoo Cuculus crassirostris H SE Typically, this extremely rarely seen species, was only heard, calling pre-dawn near Lake Tambing in Lore Lindu. Brush (Rusty-breasted) Cuckoo Cacomantis variolosus virescens Heard calling regularly at several sites (including Lore Lindu and Dumoga-Bone), and also seen at Lore Lindu too. *This is split off from Brush Cuckoo, as Rusty-breasted Cuckoo Cacomantis sepulcralis, on the IOC checklist. Brush Cuckoo Cacomantis variolosus infaustus Heard regularly during our time on Halmahera, with one seen right beside our resort there on lunchtime. Little Bronze-Cuckoo Chrysococcyx minutillus russatus. One was seen at the Savanna Nightjar site, near Palu in Central Sulawesi. *This form is sometimes considered a separate species, Gould’s Bronze-Cuckoo C. russatus. Moluccan Drongo-Cuckoo Surniculus musschenbroeki H ME Frustratingly, merely heard on Halmahera.
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Tropical Birding Trip Report Sulawesi & Halmahera September 2013
Black-billed Koel Eudynamys melanorhynchus SE Excellent views (and photographs) were had from a lookout at Tangkoko, one morning. Channel-billed Cuckoo Scythrops novaehollandiae H One was heard during the mangrove boat trip in Tangkoko. Yellow-billed Malkoha Phaenicophaeus calyorhynchus SE This common endemic was seen around seven times on the tour; first at Karaenta in South Sulawesi, and then also in Lore Lindu, Tangkoko, Dumoga-Bone, Gunung Ambang, and Gunung Mahawu Bay Coucal Centropus celebensis SE A pair was seen on our first morning in Tangkoko; another pair was seen at Tambun. Goliath Coucal Centropus goliath ME This striking and hulking Moluccan endemic was seen on three separate occasions on Halmahera; giving itself away with its slow, deliberate, and dare I say, even clumsy, movements through the understorey. Lesser Coucal Centropus bengalensis Heard on several occasions, and seen once, during the journey between Kotamobagu and Manado.
BARN-OWLS: TYTONIDAE
Minahassa Masked-Owl Tyto inexspectata H SE A bird was heard calling from our camp along the Anaso Track (Lore Lindu), at dawn, but would not respond to playback. Sulawesi Masked-Owl Tyto rosenbergii SE One of the tour highlights was provided by a visit to a nest site near the city of Kotamobagu in North Sulawesi. We arrived on site, when the area was bathed in the late afternoon sun, to find two chicks visible at the nest hole but, initially, no sign of the adult. Then, suddenly, the adult flapped clumsily from its hidden perch in the nest tree to a neighboring palm, where it remained in full view for over twenty minutes until we left; simply superb.
OWLS: STRIGIDAE
Moluccan Scops-Owl Otus magicus One was seen very well along a logging track at night, on Halmahera. Sulawesi Scops-Owl Otus manadensis SE Excellent looks were had of a roosting pair within the grounds of our simple resort at Tangkoko. The birds were present each day of our stay there, giving great looks especially on our arrival at the lodge where one bird was sitting in a great position for both photos and views. Ochre-bellied Hawk-Owl Ninox ochracea SE We struggled on this one for a while at Tangkoko; visits to various roosting areas drawing a blank. Finally, though our local guide Samuel found a bird perched low down in the daytime that allowed some long, close looks. *Also known as Ochre-bellied Boobook. Cinnabar Hawk-Owl Ninox Ios SE A single on our first morning at Lore Lindu was literally our first bird at the site; another, bizarrely, came in twice to the playback of a Sulawesi Scops-Owl call there a few days later. *Also known as Cinnabar Boobook. This species was only recently discovered, when it was described from Dumoga Bone in 1999, and then much more recently found in Lore Lindu National Park.
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Tropical Birding Trip Report Sulawesi & Halmahera September 2013
Speckled Hawk-Owl Ninox punctulata SE One was seen very well one night on the grounds of our lodging near Lore Lindu. *Also known as Speckled Boobook.
OWLET-NIGHTJARS: AEGOTHELIDAE
Moluccan Owlet-Nightjar Aegotheles crinifrons ME Seen twice near Weda Resort on Halmahera; the first sighting being heavily obscured by multiple branches. After several further tries we got a great response from a bird closer to the resort, where it flew up to an open perch early one morning.
NIGHTJARS & ALLIES: CAPRIMULGIDAE
Diabolocial Nightjar Eurostopodus diabolicus SE Two roosting pairs were seen along the Anaso Track by all, and Karen also had some flyby looks at dusk of a third pair of birds as she descended the track a little earlier. The birds we saw up close and personal there were some of the BIRDS OF THE TOUR. *Also known as Satanic or Heinrich’s Nightjar. Great Eared-Nightjar Lyncornis macrotis A pair was seen at dawn at Tambun; another pair was seen flying around at dusk on Gunung Mahawu near Manado. Large-tailed Nightjar Caprimulgus macrurus Two vocal birds were seen flying around after dusk at Galela (Halmahera). Sulawesi Nightjar Caprimulgus celebensis SE A bird came in close and flew around us at dusk in Tangkoko. Savanna Nightjar Caprimulgus affinis Three to four birds were found during the daytime, at a roost site near Palu, much to John’s obvious delight, as he had had untickable views on a previous trip to Hong Kong some years earlier. Voted as ONE OF THE BIRDS OF THE TRIP.
SWIFTS: APODIDAE
Purple Needletail Hirundapus celebensis Around 26 birds were seen gliding over one of the lower valleys in Lore Lindu late one afternoon. Glossy Swiftlet Collocalla esculenta A very common species on this tour, recorded on every single day. Sulawesi Swiftlet Aerodramus sororum SE Seen just a few times in both Central and North Sulawesi. Halmahera Swiftlet Aerodramus infuscatus ME Just three singles were seen on Halmahera, although two of these were very low allowing great close-up studies. Uniform Swiftlet Aerodramus vanikorensis Regularly recorded in lowland areas on both Sulawesi and Halmahera. House Swift Apus nipalensis A few were seen around Makassar in South Sulawesi. Asian Palm-Swift Cypsiurus balasiensis Karen saw one, whilst we were traveling across the Minahassa Peninsula in North Sulawesi.
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Tropical Birding Trip Report Sulawesi & Halmahera September 2013
TREESWIFTS: HEMIPROCNIDAE
Gray-rumped Treeswift Hemiprocne longipennis Recorded on Sulawesi; at Bantimurung, around Lore Lindu and Palu; and in Dumoga Bone. Moustached Treeswift Hemiprocne mystacea Small numbers were seen on five days of our time on Halmahera.
KINGFISHERS: ALDEDINIDAE
Common Kingfisher Alcedo atthis Seen four times on the tour, in the mangroves at Tangkoko; in Dumoga-Bone; and also on several journeys in North Sulawesi. At least one of these birds, in Dumoga-Bone, involved the distinctive, hispidoides race. Azure Kingfisher Ceyx azureus Karen found one of these Australasian kingfishers beside a large pond on Halmahera. Sulawesi Dwarf Kingfisher Ceyx fallax SE This stunning little kingfisher was seen just once, in Tangkoko. Variable Dwarf Kingfisher Ceyx Lepidus A pair of these tiny kingfishers was seen along a logging track on Halmahera one morning. Lilac-cheeked Kingfisher Cittura cyanotis SE Although it made us wait for our first sighting, three birds were seen by the end of our time in North Sulawesi; two different individuals during one day in Tangkoko, and another in Dumoga-Bone. Great-billed Kingfisher Pelargopsis melanoryhyncha SE Straightforward to find on this tour, where three different birds were seen during our trip through the mangroves of Tangkoko. Ruddy Kingfisher Halcyon coromanda One was seen during our final afternoon at Tangkoko, which was the 15th kingfisher species seen on the tour! Blue-and-white Kingfisher Todiramphus diops ME One or two were seen on most days on Halmahera, often adorning roadside wires. Collared Kingfisher Todiramphus chloris Recorded 5 or 6 times on Sulawesi. Sombre Kingfisher Todiramphus funebris ME Seen on four different days on Halmahera, with up to four birds being seen in a single day. Beach Kingfisher Todiramphus saurophagus A pair was seen, at a roadside stakeout, as we traveled to Weda, during our first day on Halmahera. Sacred Kingfisher Todiramphus sanctus Three were seen; two different birds on Halmahera, and another on Sulawesi. Green-backed Kingfisher Actenoides monachus SE Easily found at Tangkoko, where up to eight birds were seen during one day; another two were also seen at Tambun. Scaly-breasted Kingfisher Actenoides princeps SE One was seen briefly by John early one morning along the Anaso Track in Lore Lindu. It was also heard distantly at Gunung Ambang. Common Paradise-Kingfisher Tanysiptera galatea Excellent views of a single bird were had near the Wallace’s Standardwing lek on Halmahera. *This species also occurs on the island of New Guinea.
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Tropical Birding Trip Report Sulawesi & Halmahera September 2013
BEE-EATERS: MEROPIDAE
Purple-bearded Bee-eater Meropogon forsteni SE One of Sulawesi’s “signature birds”; seen very well along Lore Lindu’s Anaso Track (usually the most reliable location for the species), and a pair was also seen later on the tour on Gunung Ambang. Blue-tailed Bee-eater Merops phillipinus Four birds were seen at the Savanna Nightjar site, near Palu in Central Sulawesi. Rainbow Bee-eater Merops ornatus This Australasian species was seen three times during our stay on Halmahera in the Spice Islands.
ROLLERS: CORACIIDAE
Purple-winged Roller Coracias temminckii SE Seen three times on the tour; twice at Tangkoko, and later in Dumoga Bone. (Common) Dollarbird Eurystomus orientalis Good numbers were seen while we were on Halmahera (making finding Purple Dollarbird all the more challenging!); and another single was seen in Tangkoko on Sulawesi too. Azure Roller Eurystomus azureus ME Very challenging to find on this tour, with high numbers of Common Dollarbirds around the logging tracks near our resort on Halmahera. Finally, late on our third afternoon we came across a super pair of these birds hawking from a roadside snag, which allowed extended views for as long as we wanted! *Also known as Purple Dollarbird.
HORNBILLS: BUCEROTIDAE
Sulawesi (Dwarf) Hornbill Penelopides exarhatus SE We enjoyed a good run of sightings with this species on this tour, with four sightings in total coming from Karaenta, Tangkoko, and Dumoga-Bone. The largest group was ten birds seen from a lookout one morning in Tangkoko. Knobbed Hornbill Aceros cassidix SE Nine different sightings: from Karaenta, Lore Lindu, Tangkoko and Dumoga-Bone. Up to seven different birds were seen in a single day (near Lore Lindu). Blyth’s Hornbill Aceros plicatus Recorded daily on Halmahera, where more than thirty birds were seen during one memorable day there. They were largely gathered at a fruiting tree on this day, but got particularly excitable when a massive Gurney’s Eagle flew in and landed close by the tree, sending the gathered hornbills into a dramatic frenzy, flapping in and out of the tree on a regular basis. *Also occurs on New Guinea.
WOODPECKERS: PICIDAE
Sulawesi (Pygmy) Woodpecker Dendrocopos temminckii SE Seen three times around Lake Tambing in Lore Lindu (Central Sulawesi); another was seen within a mixed feeding flock on Gunung Ambang in North Sulawesi. Ashy Woodpecker Mulleripicus fulvus SE Seen on three occasions in Lore Lindu, with further pairs being seen in both Tangkoko and Dumoga-Bone.
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Tropical Birding Trip Report Sulawesi & Halmahera September 2013
FALCONS & CARACARAS: FALCONIDAE
Spotted Kestrel Falco moluccensis Seen on five occasions on Halmahera, although our first sighting came at Karaenta, in South Sulawesi. *Also occurs on Java and Bali. Oriental Hobby Falco severus One flew over the car on Halmahera.
COCKATOOS: CACATUIDAE
White Cockatoo Cacatua alba ME Several small groups were seen on Halmahera, with a maximum of four birds in one group.
PARROTS: PSITTACIDAE
Violet-necked Lory Eos squamata Numerous during our time on Halmahera, where they were recorded during all of our days around Weda, with notable gatherings in some of the fruiting trees around there. *This species also occurs on New Guinea. Ornate Lorikeet Trichoglossus ornatus SE Only seen on the one day in Tangkoko, where four birds were seen. Chattering Lory Lorius garrulous ME After a false alarm, when we chased down a recently caught, tethered bird, on Halmahera one morning; we were pleased to find a wild, free-flying, bird later that afternoon, which visited a fruiting tree which was crowded with Violet-necked Lorys. A fast-declining species due to its popularity for capture for the cage bird trade. Red-flanked Lorikeet Charmosyna placentis Good numbers were seen on four days in Halmahera. Yellow-and-green Lorikeet Trichoglossus flavoviridis SE Three birds were found perched, and watched at our leisure, beside Lake Tambing in Lore Lindu National Park. Yellow-breasted Raquet-tail Prioniturus flavicans SE Six birds (two groups) were seen perched from a scenic lookout at Tangkoko, during a parrot-filled few hours there. *This species is endemic to North and North Central Sulawesi. Golden-mantled Raquet-tail Prioniturus platurus SE Flyovers were seen at Karaenta in South Sulawesi, and Lore Lindu in Central Sulawesi. Also seen very well in Tangkoko, where a small group of five birds flew in and perched beside a lookout there. Great-billed Parrot Tanygnathus megalorynchos Eight different flyovers (all singles) were seen on Halmahera. *Also occurs in the New Guinea and the Philippines. Azure-rumped Parrot Tanygnathus sumatranus Recorded regularly, and seen perched, in Tangkoko. Other flyovers were seen in Dumoga-Bone too. Also known as Blue-backed Parrot. Eclectus Parrot Eclectus roratus A few were seen on most days on Halmahera. *Also found in Northern Australia and New Guinea.
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Tropical Birding Trip Report Sulawesi & Halmahera September 2013
Sulawesi Hanging-Parrot Loriculus stigmatus SE Seen on five days of the tour, spent in the lowlands of North Sulawesi. On one particular morning in Tangkoko, up to THIRTY different individuals were seen gathering in the flowering trees in the area. *Also known as Large Sulawesi Hanging-Parrot. Moluccan Hanging-Parrot Loriculus amabilis ME Seen seven or eight times on Halmahera, with at least one bird seen well when perched. Pygmy Hanging-Parrot Loriculus exilis SE Two of these tiny parrots were seen very well while foraging in the tree at lengths; once in Tangkoko, when Karen found a close bird, and another individual was seen, while we searched successfully for Maroon-chinned Fruit-Dove in Dumoga-Bone. ONE OF THE BEST BIRDS OF THE TOUR. *Also known as Small Sulawesi Hanging-Parrot.
PITTAS: PITTIDAE
Ivory-breasted Pitta Pitta maxima ME Seen on three separate occasions, with some great views near our dive resort on Halmahera. Red-bellied Pitta Pitta erythrogaster rufiventris Pitta erthrogaster celebensis Two different races were seen: rufiventris, which was seen extraordinarily well near our resort on Halmahera; and celebensis at Tangkoko on Sulawesi, where a pair was seen close as they foraged on the forest floor.
HONEYEATERS: MELIPHAGIDAE
White-streaked Friarbird Melitograis gilolensis ME Seen on at least four occasions on Halmahera. *This species is confined to the northern Moluccas. Dusky Myzomela Myzomela obscura simplex ME Up to three birds were seen along a forested ridge on Halmahera. *Also found in Australia & New Guinea, although some propose splitting off this endemic subspecies. Sulawesi Myzomela Myzomela chloroptera SE Seen on three days around Lake Tambing in Lore Lindu National Park in Central Sulawesi. Dark-eared Myza Myza celebensis SE A few were seen along the upper sections of the Anaso Track. *Also known as Greater Sulawesi Honeyeater. White-eared Myza Myza sarasinorum SE A few were seen on the lower sections of the Anaso Track in Lore Lindu. *Also known as Lesser Sulawesi Honeyeater.
THORNBILLS & ALLIES: ACANTHIZIDAE
Golden-bellied Gerygone Gerygone sulphurea Very common, by voice, in many areas; but also seen beside Makassar airport, and along the Anaso Track in Lore Lindu. *Also known as Flyeater.
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Tropical Birding Trip Report Sulawesi & Halmahera September 2013
WOODSWALLOWS: ARTAMIDAE
Ivory-backed Woodswallow Artamus monachus SE A distant bird was seen gliding high over one of the lower valleys at lore Lindu, although the species was seen much better on two days in Dumoga-Bone, later on the tour, when up to four birds were seen in a day. White-breasted Woodswallow Artamus leucorynchus Recorded at a number of sites on both Sulawesi and Halmahera, being seen on over half of the days of the tour.
CUCKOOSHRIKES: CAMPEPHAGIDAE
Pied Cuckooshrike Coracina bicolor SE A single bird was seen within the forest at Tangkoko; arguably, the scarcest of the endemic cuckooshrikes. Cerulean Cuckooshrike Coracina temminckii SE It initially took us some time to find this species at Lore Lindu, where many likely looking flocks were seen, but we could not find the species within them. On our final morning there, close to Danau Tambing, we finally connected with it, when up to seven different birds were seen; another group of three individuals was seen on Gunung Ambang. White-bellied Cuckooshrike Coracina papuensis Seen on 3-4 occasions on Halmahera. Moluccan Cuckooshrike Coracina atriceps ME Three different individuals were seen on Halmahera. White-rumped Cuckooshrike Coracina leucopygia SE After quite a search, a group of four was found in the mangroves at Tangkoko. White-shouldered Triller Lalage sueurii Two were seen near Karaenta, in South Sulawesi. *Also occurs in Java and Bali. White-rumped Triller Lalage leucopygialis SE Only seen just the once, within a valley below Wuasa near Lore Lindu. *Also known as Sulawesi Triller. Rufous-bellied Triller Lalage aurea ME This striking and handsome cuckooshrike was seen at least seven times on Halmahera. *Confined to the northern Moluccas. Halmahera Cuckooshrike Celebesia parvula ME A pair was seen along a forested ridge on Halmahera. *Endemic to the island of Halmahera. Pygmy Cuckooshrike Celebesia abbotti SE 1-2 birds were seen within mixed flocks at Lore Lindu on three of our days in this area. Sulawesi Cicadabird Edolisoma morio SE Three birds were seen in the Sedoa Valley, near Lore Lindu.
WHISTLERS & ALLIES: PACHYCEPHALIDAE
Maroon-backed Whistler Coracornis raveni SE Good, if typically short, views, were had of two different red-saddled males along Lore Lindu’s Anaso Track. Black-chinned Whistler Pachycephala mentalis ME A single male was seen well on Halmahera. 47 www.tropicalbirding.com +1-409-515-0514 [email protected] Page
Tropical Birding Trip Report Sulawesi & Halmahera September 2013
*Formerly considered part of Golden Whistler P. pectoralis. Sulphur-bellied Whistler Pachycephala sulfuriventer SE A commonly encountered member of mixed flocks in the mountains. *Also known as Yellow-vented Whistler. Drab Whistler Pachycephala griseonata ME A single bird was seen, at a known stakeout, on Halmahera.
OLD WORLD ORIOLES: ORIOLIDAE
Halmahera Oriole Oriolus phaeochromus ME Recorded four times on Halmahera. *Also known as Dusky-brown Oriole. Endemic to the island of Halmahera. Black-naped Oriole Oriolus chinensis Recorded on four occasions, at: Karaenta, Sedoa, Tangkoko, and Dumoga-Bone.
DRONGOS: DICRURIDAE
Hair-crested Drongo Dicrurus hottentottus leucops The striking, white-eyed, leucops race was seen in Karaenta, Tangkoko, and Dumoga Bone. *Surely, a good bet for a future split? Sulawesi Drongo Dicrurus montanus SE This montane species was seen within mixed flocks at both Lore Lindu and Gunung Ambang, being seen on four days of the tour. Spangled Drongo Dicrurus bracteatus Recorded daily on Halmahera, where this species replaces Hair-crested.
FANTAILS: RHIPIDURIDAE
Willie-wagtail Rhipidura leucophrys This Australasian species is very common on Halmahera (although absent from Sulawesi), and was seen in good numbers daily there. Rusty-flanked Fantail Rhipidura teysmanni SE A regular flock follower encountered both at Gunung Ambang and Lore Lindu. *Also known as Rusty-bellied Fantail.
MONARCH FLYCATCHERS: MONARCHIDAE
Pale-blue Monarch Hypothymis puella SE This recent split from Black-naped Monarch, was seen just the once, in the mangroves at Tangkoko, although they were heard regularly throughout the lowlands on Sulawesi. White-naped Monarch Carterornis pileatus A pair was seen near on the way to the dive resort on Halmahera. Spectacled Monarch Symposiachrus trivirgatus bimaculatus ME Encountered regularly on Halmahera, in the Moluccas. *This subspecies is sometimes referred to as a separate species, Moluccan Monarch, S. bimaculatus.
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Tropical Birding Trip Report Sulawesi & Halmahera September 2013
Moluccan (Slaty) Flycatcher Myiagra galeata ME Seen on two days in Halmahera, including a pair roosting at night, while searching for the Moluccan Owlet-Nightjar. Shining Flycatcher Myiagra alecto A male was seen during our first afternoon on Halmahera.
CROWS, JAYS & MAGPIES: CORVIDAE
Slender-billed Crow Corvus enca Regularly encountered at lowland sites on Sulawesi. Long-billed Crow Corvus validus ME This strange, and distinctive, crow was seen on five occasions during our time on Halmahera. Piping Crow Corvus typicus SE A poor showing for the species, with just a single, (thankfully LOW), flyover from two birds at Karaenta, on our first morning. Torresian Crow Corvus orru Just the one bird was seen on Halmahera, which flew over our car.
BIRDS-OF-PARADISE: PARADISAEIDAE
Paradise-crow Lycocorax pyrrhopterus ME Their distinctive calls were heard regularly from deep within the forest on Halmahera, and one bird was seen on our first afternoon into the resort, where great views of a low foraging birds were had. Standardwing Bird-of-paradise Semioptera wallacii ME One of the standout birds of this, or indeed, ANY tour. If you thought birds-of-paradise were only found on the island of PNG, think again! The dramatic, low displays of the standardwings close to our resort on Halmahera rival anything even in Papua New Guinea. Honestly, one of the best bird-of-paradise shows on Earth. Weda Resort has an easily accessible lek site, only a short drive, and 20 minute walk, away. We sat on their bench in the forest as the jungle, and the standardwings, woke up, their harsh cries piercing the moist forest air, and signaling the onset of the first displays of the morning. Initially, these dances were largely in darkness, but as the sun rose higher, the forest became brighter, and the displays were seen in all their full, awesome glory. We visited the lek site at dawn and saw three males and a female bird on that visit, and later returned during late afternoon when three males were seen again. For sure, ONE OF THE BEST BIRDS OF THE TOUR. *Also known as Wallace’s Standardwing.
SWALLOWS: HIRUNDINIDAE
Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica Much scarcer than the following species, with just a handful of birds seen, both on Halmahera, and also in North Sulawesi. Pacific Swallow Hirundo tahitica Recorded regularly throughout the tour.
FAIRY-FLYCATCHERS: STENOSTIRIDAE
Citrine Canary-Flycatcher Culicicapa helianthea Recorded regularly in small numbers, in all the mountain areas on Sulawesi. 49 www.tropicalbirding.com +1-409-515-0514 [email protected] Page
Tropical Birding Trip Report Sulawesi & Halmahera September 2013
BULBULS: PYCNONOTIDAE
Sooty-headed Bulbul Pycnonotus aurigaster Seen near Makassar, near Palu, near Manado, around Ambang and Gunung Mahawu. *This species was introduced to Sulawesi. Northern Golden Bulbul Alophoixus longirostris SE Seen in small numbers, (up to half a dozen birds per day), daily on Halmahera.
BUSH-WARBLER & ALLIES: HIRUNDINIDAE
Mountain Tailorbird Phyllergates cucullatus Recorded regularly at all highland sites on Sulawesi.
LEAF-WARBLERS: PHYLLOSCOPIDAE
Arctic Warbler Phylloscopus borealis A single migrant was seen foraging alongside a logging track on Halmahera. Sulawesi Leaf-Warbler Phylloscopus sarasinorum SE A commonly encountered montane endemic, within feeding flocks in the highlands of Sulawesi.
REED-WARBLERS & ALLIES: ACROCEPHALIDAE
Clamorous Reed-Warbler Acrocephalus stentoreus H One was heard around a large lake near Gunung Mahawu.
GRASSBIRDS & ALLIES: LOCUSTELLIDAE
Chestnut-backed Bush-Warbler Bradypterus castaneus SE Commonly heard on the lower slopes of Gunung Ambang, and at Lore Lindu. Two birds were seen at very close range near Lake Tambing at the latter site. *Found in both Sulawesi and the southern Moluccas. Gray’s Grasshopper-Warbler Locustella fasciolata H A close calling bird simply could not be budged from dense cover on Halmahera!
CISTICOLAS & ALLIES: CISTICOLIDAE
Zitting Cisticola Cisticola juncidis One was seen at the base of Gunung Ambang.
YUHINAS, WHITE-EYES & ALLIES: ZOSTEROPIDAE
Streak-headed White-eye Lophozosterops squamiceps SE A few were seen on both of our days along the Anaso Track. *Also known as Streak-headed Dark-eye. Mountain White-eye Zosterops montanus Regularly recorded regularly in Lore Lindu, and also on Gunung Mahawu. Lemon-bellied White-eye Zosterops chloris Originally seen at Makassar airport, with others being seen near Palu, and below Lore Lindu.
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Tropical Birding Trip Report Sulawesi & Halmahera September 2013
*Also known as Yellow-bellied White-eye. Also occurs in Java, Bali and West Papua. Black-ringed White-eye Zosterops anomalus SE A single bird was seen at Karaenta Nature Reserve on our first morning, where many others were heard calling. *This species is endemic to South Sulawesi. Black-crowned White-eye Zosterops atrifrons Seen regularly around Lake Tambing in Lore Lindu; also recorded on Gunung Mahawu. *Also known as Black-fronted White-eye. Cream-throated White-eye Zosterops atriceps ME Heard regularly while on Halmahera, where we enjoyed two different sightings, the first of which was truly up close and personal (see photo in this report).
FULVETTAS & GROUND BABBLERS: PELLORNEIDAE
Sulawesi Babbler Trichastoma celebense SE Seen 4-5 times on the tour, including within Lore Lindu National Park, Tangkoko, Gunung Ambang, and Gunung Mahawu.
BABBLERS: TIMALIIDAE
Malia Malia grata SE This odd bird was seen on four different days in Lore Lindu National Park.
OLD WORLD FLYCATCHERS: MUSCICAPIDAE
“Sulawesi”/”Sulawesi Brown”/”Ben King” Flycatcher Muscicapa sp. SE This taxon is yet to be described despite being first discovered by Ben King & Co. some 16 years ago; it remains scarce, though regularly seen at a number of sites, with South Sulawesi seemingly the most reliable area. Tropical Birder Keith Barnes had been in the area recently and had given us pinpoint directions to where he had recently seen it. It took all of 2 minutes to find, which even armed with great site directions was unexpected! Thanks Keith. Gray-streaked Flycatcher Muscicapa griseisticta One was seen from a lookout at Tangkoko, and another single was seen near the base of Gunung Ambang. Matinan (Blue) Flycatcher Cyornis sanfordi SE Two separate individuals were found on different areas of Gunung Ambang; currently the only accessible location for the species. Blue-fronted (Blue) Flycatcher Cyornis hoevelli SE Recorded regularly in Lore Lindu National Park. Sulawesi Blue-Flycatcher Cyornis omissus SE A gorgeous red-and-blue male was seen near Lake Tambing in Lore Lindu; two more were seen on the flanks of Gunung Mahawu. *This was formerly lumped within Mangrove Flycatcher C. rufigastra. Island Flycatcher Eumylas panayensis *Also known as Island Verditer/Turquoise Flycatcher. Recorded regularly, in small numbers, in Lore Lindu, and two others were seen on Gunung Mahawu. Great Shortwing Heinrichia calligyna SE A male hopped on and off the Anaso Track repeatedly for a short time, allowing multiple looks at this extremely shy species for all.
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Tropical Birding Trip Report Sulawesi & Halmahera September 2013
Little Pied Flycatcher Ficedula westermanni Seen twice around Lore Lindu. Snowy-browed Flycatcher Ficedula hyperythra A pleasantly regular feature of our time in Lore Lindu National Park. Blue Rock-Thrush Monticola solitarius A female was seen sitting on a beachside rock in Tangkoko.
THRUSHES & ALLIES: TURDIDAE
Rusty-backed Thrush Geokichla erythronata SE Surely a contender for the world’s best thrush?! One was seen for an extended view while foraging on the forest floor in Tangkoko. Coming moments before a Lilac-cheeked Kingfisher, and moments after an Ochre-bellied Boobook! *Also known as Red-backed Thrush. ONE OF THE BIRDS OF THE TOUR. Sulawesi Thrush Cataponera turdoides SE This one proved troublesome on this tour, with neither of the regular Lore Lindu birds feeding in the clearing around dawn as hoped. Instead Karen and John both picked up separate birds in mixed feeding flocks around Lake Tambing.
STARLINGS: STURNIDAE
Metallic Starling Aplonis metallica A few small groups were seen both on Halmahera, and Sulawesi. Asian Glossy Starling Aplonis panayensis Several small groups were seen around Kotamobagu and Dumoga-Bone in North Sulawesi. Moluccan Starling Aplonis mysolensis Five sightings of small groups/singles on Halmahera. Short-tailed Starling Aplonis minor Two were seen near the Sedoa Valley below Lore Lindu, and another five were seen during the journey between Lore Lindu and Palu. *This species also occurs in the Philippines. Sulawesi (Crested) Myna Basilornis celebensis SE A single was seen along the Molibagu Road in Dumoga-Bone one afternoon by Karen; then another pair were seen in a different area along the road the following morning. Generally, the hardest of the endemic mynas to find. White-necked Myna Streptocitta albicollis SE Initially picked up on the journey between Lore Lindu and Palu, with others being seen in Tangkoko and Dumoga- Bone. Fiery-browed Myna Enodes erythrophris SE Seen regularly in Lore Lindu National Park. Finch-billed Myna Scissirostrum dubium SE Seen first around Lake Tambing in Lore Lindu, then later again on multiple occasions in Tangkoko and Dumoga-Bone. *Also known as Grosbeak Starling.
FLOWERPECKERS: DICAEIDAE
Yellow-sided Flowerpecker Dicaeum aureolimbatum SE Seen near Karaenta, Lore Lindu, Tangkoko, Dumoga-Bone, Gunung Ambang, and on Gunung Mahawu.
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Tropical Birding Trip Report Sulawesi & Halmahera September 2013
Crimson-crowned Flowerpecker Dicaeum nehrkorni SE After brief views in Lore Lindu, we were pleased to have excellent looks on Gunung Mahawu. Halmahera Flowerpecker Dicaeum schistaceiceps ME One was seen along a forested ridge on Halmahera one morning. *Also known as Flame-breasted Flowerpecker. Endemic to the North Moluccas. Gray-sided Flowerpecker Dicaeum celebicum SE Recorded five or six times on the tour, including near Makassar, in Lore Lindu, and around Dumoga Bone.
SUNBIRDS & SPIDERHUNTERS: NECTARINIIDAE
Plain-throated Sunbird Anthreptes malacensis A few males were seen at Tangkoko. *Also known as Brown-throated Sunbird. Black Sunbird Leptocoma sericea Recorded regularly during the tour; both on Sulawesi and Halmahera. Olive-backed Sunbird Cinnyris jugularis Scattered sightings at lowland sites throughout. Eastern Crimson Sunbird Aethopyga siparaja Three males were seen along the Molibagu Road in Dumoga Bone National Park.
WAGTAILS & PIPITS: MOTACILLIDAE
Eastern Yellow Wagtail Motacilla tschutschensis Recorded regularly in the rice paddies of North Sulawesi. Gray Wagtail Motacilla cinerea Two were seen at the base of Gunung Ambang. Oriental (Paddyfield) Pipit Anthus rufulus One was seen in a rice paddy near Dumoga-Bone.
HYLOCITREA: HYLOCITREIDAE
Hylocitrea Hylocitrea bonensis SE Seen well on one occasion on our first day along the Anaso Track, much to the relief of John and Karen for which this was their 229th and FINAL bird family on Earth. Set completed, and a long quest came to an end! *Formerly known as Olive-flanked Whistler.
SISKINS, CROSSBILLS & ALLIES: FRINGILLIDAE
Mountain Serin Serinus estherae Seen on both of our days along the Anaso Track; on our first day typical overshooting birds were seen. However, on our second day some quality perched views were obtained near the top end of the track.
OLD WORLD SPARROWS: PASSERIDAE
Eurasian Tree Sparrow Passer montanus One of the most common and widespread birds in the region, recorded throughout.
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Tropical Birding Trip Report Sulawesi & Halmahera September 2013
WAXBILLS & ALLIES: ESTRILDIDAE
Black-faced Munia Lonchura molucca Seen several times on Halmahera; and likewise in North Sulawesi. Also found within the Lesser Sundas, Java and Bali. Nutmeg Mannikin Lonchura punctulata Around ten birds were seen on the journey between Manado and Kotamobagu in North Sulawesi. *Also known as Scaly-breasted Munia. Chestnut Munia Lonchura atricapilla Recorded regularly in North Sulawesi, and also near Makassar in South Sulawesi. Pale-headed Munia Lonchura pallida Seen on three occasions on the tour; near Makassar, near Palu, and also near Tomohon in North Sulawesi. Java Sparrow Lonchura oryzivora Half a dozen birds were seen near Makassar in South Sulawesi.
View from Ternate looking over towards Pulau Tidore, in the “Spice Islands”
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Tropical Birding Trip Report Sulawesi & Halmahera September 2013
MAMMALS
MEGABATS: PTEROPODIDAE
Masked Flying-Fox Pteropus personatus As we were staying on the island of Ternate for one night, John and Karen were keen to try and track this striking bat down, which, with the aid of two keen local guides we managed to do on our single night there. A stunning creature that just hung there for an age (and photos)! Variable Flying-Fox Pteropus hypomelanus Some bats flying around one dawn on Halmahera appeared to be this species. Common Tube-nosed Fruit Bat Nyctimene albiventer One of these distinctive bats was found while we went in to track down an Ivory-breasted Pitta on Halmahera, which provided a nice distraction, when we found it hanging at close quarters in the forest.
TARSIERS: TARSIIDAE
Spectral Tarsier Tarsius spectrum SE A super group of five animals was seen on our first morning in Tangkoko, as they perched on a low buttress. In a particularly photogenic moment, four of the individuals then lined up in a vertical row, inspiring us to take lots and lots of photos!
OLD WORLD MONKEYS: CEROPITHECIDAE
Moor Macaque Macaca Maura SE A single troop was seen at Karaenta. 55 www.tropicalbirding.com +1-409-515-0514 [email protected] Page
Tropical Birding Trip Report Sulawesi & Halmahera September 2013
Tonkean Macaque Macaca tonkeana SE A group of three animals, which included a young infant macaque, were ‘scoped while birding the lower valleys below Wuasa (Lore Lindu area). Gorontalo Macaque Macaca nigrescens SE Three of these rarely seen primates were seen along the Molibagu Road in Dumoga-Bone. We were very lucky to pick up all four possible endemic macaques on this tour; a rare feat! Celebes Crested Macaque Macaca nigra SE Having missed them entirely on our first day in Tangkoko (a surprise), this became a major target for us the following day there. On that day there was a visible return to form, as the “Rambo 2” group were encountered as we entered the park, and we subsequently enjoyed walking among 40 or more of these gorilla-esque macaques. *Also known as Sulawesi or Black Crested Macaque.
SQUIRRELS: SCIURIDAE
Whitish Dwarf Squirrel Prosciurillus leucomus Recorded a number of times in Tangkoko. Sulawesi Dwarf Squirrel Prosciurillus murinus Commonly encountered in Lore Lindu in particular. Lowland Long-nosed Squirrel Hysosciurus heinrichi One was seen in Dumoga-Bone.
CUSCUSES, BRUSHTAIL POSSUMS & ALLIES: PHALANGERIDAE
Sulawesi Bear Cuscus Ailurops ursinus Two were seen during our first morning in Tangkoko, with the first giving excellent views as it stared down at us from above, allowing for some memorable photo moments too. (See photo page 55).
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