I'm Beating a Path Back to Rebooted Cotswolds Gem Soon
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40 Saturday, July 6, 2019 WESTERN DAILY PRESS DINING OUT DINING OUT I’m beating a path back to rebooted Cotswolds gem soon OU really could be in the Mark Taylor visits a pub south of France,” mused my Ymate, adjusting his sunglasses with star quality and taking another sip of ice-cold salmon-pink rosé. whether the local In the dappled shade of the tran- quil courtyard garden, a few inquisi- celeb set are tive bees buzzed around the borders of swaying lilac lavender plants next there or not to zinc-topped tables hot enough to fry eggs on in the midday sun. On a balmy late June lunchtime, Both The Swan and The Chequers the garden at The Swan, in the pic- are the local boozers of choice for ture-perfect, chocolate box Cotswold the so-called Chipping Norton set, village of Ascott-under-Wychwood, which means you might well bump certainly makes for a fine substitute into the likes of Cameron and Clark- for Provence despite its quintessen- son at any time. > The 16th-century Swan in tial Englishness. The Swan is also 20 minutes from Ascott-under-Wychwood The pub’s garden is made up of Soho Farmhouse and Daylesford has been given a high-end York stone, fire pits and painted Organic, making it an ideal pitstop refurb under new owners wooden planters. There’s also a wis- for passing celebs as well as locals Sam and Georgie Pearman teria-covered oak pergola and a lucky enough to live in this highly Photo: Chris Terry Cotswold stone outdoor dining desirable part of the Cotswolds. space. It really is a wonderful setting The Pearmans have serious inves- for an al fresco lunch. tors in Rupert Murdoch’s daughter, Dating from the 16th century, the Elisabeth, and her property develop- kicking off with chopped raw hanger deep-fried strips of shredded, juicy honey-stoned village inn itself ticks er husband Tony Gallagher, which steak (£9.50), which was a classic lamb encased in crisp and crunchy > Dorset cockles all the right boxes when it comes to goes some way in explaining the steak tartare in all but name. breadcrumbs – turned up with a in cider bona fide Cotswold bolthole, with expensive refurbishment, which has The finely chopped steak had been moreish herb mayonnaise, and a seven bedrooms and a family-size retained the inglenook fireplaces generously seasoned, studded with heap of lightly battered cod cheeks cottage in the garden as well as a and “mind your head” beams but capers and parsley and served with a with cauliflower and squash pakoras bar/restaurant and separate oak- furnished each public area to a high dollop of fruity tomato dressing, (£13) were teamed with a funky beamed feasting room with space for standard. croutons and nose-tingling fresh green chutney. 18 diners. Head chef Adam Abbott was previ- horseradish. A steak tartare aficiona- A whole sea bream (£16) was pre- The Swan reopened last month ously at The Wild Rabbit in nearby do, my mate said it was one of the cisely cooked on the bone and given under Sam and Georgie Pearman, Kingham and his seasonal modern best he’s had. the full-blown Mediterranean treat- who were the co-founders of the British menus are packed with local Also excellent was a seemingly ment with roasted red peppers, hugely successful Lucky Onion hotel produce, whether you choose from never-ending bowl of Dorset cockles almonds and olives – an appropri- group before setting up their own the all-day bar menu or the à la (£12.50), the plump and briny mol- ately sunny plate of food for a swel- Country Creatures group. carte. There’s plenty of choice, too, luscs immersed in a light, parsley- tering al fresco lunch. As well as The Swan, they also with lots of salads and vegetable flecked broth of local cider enriched My mate finished with a tip-top have The Chequers down the road in dishes, pies, sharing dishes, burgers with cream. board of six stinky British and French Churchill and a coaching inn and and steaks. From the bar menu, Ryeland lamb cheeses (£15) while I went for the restaurant in North Yorkshire. We ordered from both menus, scrumpets (£7.50) – greaseless, gold top custard tart (£9) with its crisp pastry and wobbly filling, not to mention a fantastic rum and raisin > The pub’s ice cream. courtyard garden After two hours in the sun plough- and, right, the sea ing through that lot and “rehydrat- bream ing” with more wine, we paid up and Photos: Chris Terry waddled out of The Swan well fed and planning immediate return vis- its with our respective families and friends. Well, this gem of a rebooted Cotswold pub is simply too good not to share. RATING 4/5 The Swan, 4 Shipton Road, Ascott- under-Wychwood, Chipping Norton, OX7 6AY. Tel: 01993 832332. www.swanascott.com.