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Fixed-Point Belaying Derek Debruin Thanks to Jesse Williams, Chris Burk, Petzl America

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Fixed-Point Belaying Derek Debruin Thanks to Jesse Williams, Chris Burk, Petzl America Fixed-Point Belaying Derek DeBruin Thanks to Jesse Williams, Chris Burk, Petzl America Austin Schmitz on “Lost in Space” in Linville Gorge, North Carolina. Photo: Tate Peterson. The Problem • “Fall Factor 2” • i.e. Difficult climbing on steep terrain immediately above the belay anchor, increasing the probability of a fall directly onto the belay prior to placing the first piece of protection on the pitch Solutions? 1. Relocate anchor 2. Chariot belay 3. Pre-clip first piece 4. Redirect on the anchor 5. Fixed-point belay 1. Relocate the Belay • Must have the gear to do so • Probably more useful if not onsighting • Not always possible on steep routes with fixed anchors Leader 2. Chariot Belay X X Additional rope 3+ meters from anchor in the system Belayer 2. Chariot Belay • Belayer displacement? • Belayer security at start of their turn to climb • Can belayer secure themselves? • Security from above requires lots of rope 3. Pre-Clip First Piece X First protection on next pitch Additional rope in the system X X Leader Belayer 3. Pre-Clip First Piece • Need sufficient rope on preceding pitch • Need right gear for first piece and a solid anchor • Leader must downclimb or lower back to anchor • Potentially long distance from belayer w/difficult moves • Belayer displacement? • Swapping leads more complex (untie, etc.) 4. Redirect on the Anchor Leader X X Additional rope Belayer in the system 4. Redirect on the Anchor • Familiar to most climbers • Belayer displacement! • Pulley effect!!! 4. Redirect on the Anchor: Pulley Effect X X • Let’s go top roping… Climber Belayer 4. Redirect on the Anchor: Pulley Effect X X • Let’s go top roping… Climber Climber Falls!!! Belayer 4. Redirect on the Anchor: Pulley Effect X X • How much does a climber weigh? Climber Climber Falls!!! Belayer 4. Redirect on the Anchor: Pulley Effect X X • 1kN ~ 224.5lbf Climber Climber Falls!!! Belayer 1kN 4. Redirect on the Anchor: Pulley Effect X X • What about acceleration? Climber Climber Falls!!! Belayer 1kN 2kN 4. Redirect on the Anchor: Pulley Effect X X • Rope translates force from one end to the other 2kN Climber Climber Falls!!! Belayer 2kN 4. Redirect on the Anchor: Pulley Effect X X • Rope translates force from one end to the other Climber Climber Falls!!! Belayer 2kN 2kN 4. Redirect on the Anchor: Pulley Effect X X • Force on the anchor is…? ???? 2kN 2kN Climber Climber Falls!!! Belayer 4. Redirect on the Anchor: Pulley Effect X X • Force on the anchor is…? ???? • 2 + 2 = … 2kN 2kN Climber Climber Falls!!! Belayer 4. Redirect on the Anchor: Pulley Effect X X 4kN 2kN 2kN Climber Climber Falls!!! Belayer 4. Redirect on the Anchor: Pulley Effect X X • Caveats: 4kN • Climbers might be >225lb • Rope might not be taut • Friction means force on anchor 2kN 2kN is 1.6 times (NOT 2 times) force on climber Climber Climber Falls!!! Belayer 4. Redirect on the Anchor: Pulley Effect X X • Caveats: 4kN 3.2kN • Climbers might be >225lb • Rope might not be taut • Friction means force on anchor 2kN 2kN is 1.6 times (NOT 2 times) force on climber Climber Climber Falls!!! Belayer 4. Redirect on the Anchor: Pulley Effect • Punchline: force gets doubled, give or take 4. Redirect on the Anchor Leader • How much force in this leader fall…? X X The fall Additional rope Belayer in the system 4. Redirect on the Anchor Leader • How much force in this leader fall…? Approx. 1.2m X X The fall Approx. 3m Belayer Approx. 0.8m 4. Redirect on the Anchor Leader • How much force in this leader fall…? Practically speaking, at this Approx. 1.2m distance the leaders feet are even with the anchor X X The fall components. Approx. 3m Belayer Approx. 0.8m 4. Redirect on the Anchor 8kN • How much force in this leader fall…? X X Belayer 3.25kN 4.75kN Leader 4. Redirect on the Anchor 8kN • Assumes an ABD X X • <6kN on leader, so “acceptable” per EN standards at this fall height Belayer • The higher the leader climbs, the greater 3.25kN the force and the less “acceptable” this becomes • 3.25kN on belayer sucked into first piece • Will belayer catch the fall?! 4.75kN Leader 4. Redirect on the Anchor 8kN • Assumes an ABD X X • <6kN on leader, so “acceptable” per EN standards at this fall height Belayer • The higher the leader climbs, the greater 3.25kN the force and the less “acceptable” this becomes • 3.25kN on belayer sucked into first piece • Will belayer catch the fall?! 4.75kN Leader • Belayer moved violently, ABD might jam This is A LOT of force. Like “snap 4. Redirect on the Anchor your wires, break 8kN you microcams, rip • Assumes an ABD X X your screw out of • <6kN on leader, so “acceptable” per EN the ice” a lot. standards at this fall height Belayer • 3.25kN on belayer sucked into first piece 3.25kN • Will belayer catch the fall?! 4.75kN Leader 5. Fixed-Point Belay Leader X X Belayer 5. Fixed-Point Belay Leader • MUST use an MBD, i.e. something that lets rope slip • Munter or tube X X Belayer 5. Fixed-Point Belay Leader • How much force in this leader fall…? Approx. 1.2m The fall X X Approx. 3m Belayer 5. Fixed-Point Belay 5.5kN • How much force in this leader fall…? X X Belayer 0kN 5.5kN Leader 5. Fixed-Point Belay 5.5kN • Assumes an MBD—CANNOT use ABD X X • Belayer needs gloves (probably a good idea in general) Belayer • Lower force on anchor—pulley effect 0kN eliminated • NO (or very little) force on belayer • Greater force on climber, but “acceptable” 5.5kN Leader 5. Fixed-Point Belay 5.5kN • Assumes an MBD—CANNOT use ABD X X • Belayer needs gloves (probably a good idea in general) Belayer • Lower force on anchor—pulley effect 0kN eliminated • NO (or very little) force on belayer This is A LOT of • Greater force on climber, but force on a human. “acceptable” Like “I am suddenly 5.5kN Leader very aware of the existence of both my kidneys” a lot. Fixed-Point Belay Rigging Fixed-Point Belay Rigging: Banshee Belay Fixed-Point Belay Rigging: Banshee Belay Vertical configuration Clove hitch w/ of components offers captured tail some load distribution. Locking carabiner at fixed Double bight knot point attachment (overhand, fig 8, bowline) The “fixed point” Belayer clove hitch Munter hitch to leader Fixed-Point Belay Rigging: Banshee Belay Horizontal configuration of components offers redundancy but not load distribution. Fixed-Point Belay Rigging: Banshee Belay Construction with the rope offers simplicity and minimal equipment. Most convenient when swapping leaders. Fixed-Point Belay Rigging • What about distribution/equalization?! Fixed-Point Belay Rigging: Distribution • True distribution is not attainable in the field. • “Static” systems: 75/25 or 3:1 is realistic • Ponytail • Cordelette • Wishbone aka swamp • “Dynamic” systems: 60/40 or 1.5:1 (best case) • Quad • Equalette • Sliding-x Fixed-Point Belay Rigging: Distribution • Real-world example: Well placed #2 and #3 Camalots in a crack in the planet tied together with a sling at a 60o angle Fixed-Point Belay Rigging: Distribution • Real-world example: #2 Camalot #3 Camalot Well placed #2 and #3 Camalots in a crack in the planet tied together with a sling at a 60o angle o 60 Masterpoint Fixed-Point Belay Rigging: Distribution • Real-world example: #2 Camalot #3 Camalot Take a 3m fall with a redirect on the masterpoint. F = 8kN o 60 Masterpoint F Fixed-Point Belay Rigging: Distribution • Real-world example: #2 Camalot F’ #3 Camalot F = 8kN F’ = 8kN o 60 Masterpoint F Fixed-Point Belay Rigging: Distribution • Real-world example: #2 Camalot F’ #3 Camalot F = 8kN F’ = 8kN Fcam 2F’ F = cam √3 o 60 Masterpoint F Fixed-Point Belay Rigging: Distribution • Real-world example: #2 Camalot F’ #3 Camalot F = 8kN F’ = 8kN F’1 Fcam 2F’ F = F’2 cam √3 o 3 F’ 60 Masterpoint = 1 1 F’2 F Fixed-Point Belay Rigging: Distribution • Real-world example: #2 Camalot F’ #3 Camalot F = 8kN F’ = 8kN F’1 Fcam 2F’ F = F’2 cam √3 o 3 F’ 60 Masterpoint = 1 1 F’2 F’ = F & F’1 = 0.75F’ F Fixed-Point Belay Rigging: Distribution • Real-world example: #2 Camalot F’ #3 Camalot F = 8kN F’ = 8kN F’1 Fcam 2F’ F = F’2 cam √3 o 3 F’ 60 Masterpoint = 1 1 F’2 F’ = F & F’1 = 0.75F’ 1.5F’ F = F cam √3 ∴ Fixed-Point Belay Rigging: Distribution • Real-world example: #2 Camalot F’ #3 Camalot 1.5F’ F’ F F = 1 cam cam √3 F’2 If F = 8kN, Fcam ~= 7kN o 60 Masterpoint F Fixed-Point Belay Rigging: Distribution • Real-world example: #2 Camalot F’ #3 Camalot In other words, distribution F’1 Fcam doesn’t buy you much (about 1kN). F’2 o 60 Masterpoint F Fixed-Point Belay Rigging: Distribution • Real-world example: #2 Camalot F’ #3 Camalot • Working backwards… F’1 Fcam • 14kN cam breaks with 16kN on F’ the masterpoint. 2 o • A 10kN ice screw breaks with 60 Masterpoint 11.5kN. F Fixed-Point Belay Rigging: Distribution • Real-world example: #2 Camalot F’ #3 Camalot • Working backwards… F’1 Fcam • 14kN cam breaks with 16kN on F’ the masterpoint. 2 o • A 10kN ice screw breaks with 60 Masterpoint 11.5kN. • The placement/rock/ice could fail at lower loads. F Fixed-Point Belay Rigging: Distribution • What about dynamic rigging x x systems? Masterpoint Theoretical 0o angle Fixed-Point Belay Rigging: Distribution • Assume one anchor twice as 5kN 10kN strong Masterpoint Theoretical 0o angle Fixed-Point Belay Rigging: Distribution • How strong is this anchor? 5kN 10kN Masterpoint Theoretical 0o angle Fixed-Point Belay Rigging: Distribution • How strong is this anchor? 5kN 10kN • 15kN? (additive rule) Masterpoint Theoretical 0o angle Fixed-Point Belay Rigging: Distribution • How strong is this anchor? 5kN 10kN • 15kN? (additive rule) • 7.5kN? Masterpoint Theoretical 0o angle Fixed-Point Belay Rigging:
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