NOV-DEC/2012 01 COVER STORY
28 “BHUTAN, Is it in 56 The movie that Central America?” everyone’s talking about 10 IN PURSUIT OF THE 31 Amazing Thailand, HOT SEAT indeed! 60 Living with Cancer 37 Fiction In 1999 when Bhutan announced it was A Mystery, by Karma going to bid for a non-permanent seat at 75 Thumbs Up and the United Nations Security Council there Singye Dorji was hardly a ripple, leave alone a chorus of Down objection. That was partly because there was 40 Is Bhutan suffering only one newspaper, no freedom of press, symptoms of The and most people probably didn’t understand Dutch Disease? what it meant.
42 Article It Takes A Village and INTERVIEW Not a ‘ Syringe’ to Raise a Child
48 Feature 62 tÊtE Á tÊtE The Amochhu Project Revisited With Karma Phuntsho. 51 Beautician Sham talks about his quirk. MOST DISCUSSED 54 Restaurant Review 72 Recalling 2012
TheThe Raven Raven NOV-DEC,OCTOBER, 2012 2012 1 letter to the editor
Sir/Madam,
The Raven is very impressive. Very timely articles The Raven is indeed an excellent publication. - and good writing. And good solid interviews. The mistakes, as in typos, can be overlooked Really enjoyed the first issue. given the content of the magazine. The maga- zine, I am sure, will only grow stronger from here on. My best wishes are with the team and Bruce W. Bunting, President, Bhutan Foundation. I hope, once the teething problems are over, Congratulation on the first edition of your The Raven will be able to sustain itself for a long time to come. We have already witnessed one magazine. It was insightful and covered a wide excellent monthly publication fold but hope- range of issues. I was personally impressed by fully readers will not allow that to happen this the portion that covers scientific research works time around. Congratulations once again to The that could be further strengthened in collabo- Raven team. ration with many other relevant agencies and individuals. Besides, the range of topics includ- Nigel. ing in-depth interviews with top officials are the magazine’s plus points. It was really a good beginning.
Lekey Wangdi, Student, Philippines.
The inaugural issue of The Raven was a great read. Way to go team. Keep the issues coming.
Rinzin Pem, Thimphu.
TheRaven’s inaugural layout, content and editorial mission statement has set a new level of excel- lence - hope it’s sustained.
Brian C.Shaw, Hong Kong.
While being a Bhutanese journal, The Raven seems to be making an effort to provide a Bhuta- nese worldview: whether it is about Istanbul or China. Given the nature of the magazine, I hope the editors will think of having regular colum- Photo Courtesy: Twitter nists who will be the opinion-makers, enabling the reading public, Bhutanese and non-Bhuta- nese, to not only have a better understanding of today’s increasingly changing Bhutan, but also about the country’s place in today’s world. The Raven will also have to undergo the inevitable fine-tuning in its subsequent issues so that it can eventually establish a clear identity for itself.
Bhuchung Tshering, USA. letter from the editor
KUZUZANGPO!
uch has happened in the last month with interesting developments on all fronts– Internationally, politically and socially. To highlight a few, Bhutan’s loss at the UNSC elections was met with many a, “I” or “We told you so,” kind of comments in mainstream and social media. On the Gyelpozhing land case people are awaiting with curiosity to see what the outcome will be after an order of suspension Mwent back and forth. Meanwhile behind the scenes, political parties are busy laying out the groundwork for the upcoming elections in 2013. We hope to bring to you a few interesting new players in this field. News of the Pedestrian-day being moved from Tuesday to a Sunday was met with a big sigh of relief! On the social front we have seen from two shocking cases that youth and domestic violence need addressing with great immediacy. It should make us Bhutanese – who rarely heard of such violence and crime – question ourselves as to how and where we have gone wrong. It goes against the very image of what we like to think of ourselves– peace loving, compassionate peo- ple. We have lived in a secure society where we didn’t have to live in fear, least of all of young people and own family members. In one a mother of two was assaulted so badly by two stran- gers, she was hospitalized. In another case, a 15-year-old was driven to shoot his own father who allegedly abused his wife, the boy’s mother, and the children. Last month one of our contribu- tors, Tashi Wangmo, wrote a powerful piece about Domestic Violence. Her in-depth analysis
Post of this problem shattered many myths that we had about our peaceful society. The problems Letters to the Editor of abusing family members, particularly women and children, is much more prevalent than ‘The Raven’ P.O.Box:1047, we think, and the youth’s attitude to women and the elderly is getting more disrespectful with Thimphu, Bhutan time. This problem cuts across all sections of society and is not socio-economic. What is even more alarming is the media has not been able to access details of one of the cases because the family has allegedly received immunity from the media. A case that allegedly involved guns, drugs and severe violence towards family members, particularly the children, is off-bounds because of the family’s privileged status. Should the media be cherry-picking cases Mail [email protected] then? And because of such immunity, has it? If the media has been instructed to respect the privacy of some families, but not of others, and the media and law-enforcement respects this then we – media and law enforcement – are guilty of not being fair by treating people equally. Should this happen to a non-privileged person, would they be accorded the same treatment and Facebook facebook.com/ privacy? The Bhutanese media is pretty respectful in terms of according privacy to victims and theravenmagazine perpetrators of crime, so one wonders who has the right to immunity, who can get it, and does this affect verdicts? Aside from depressing occurrences we have shining examples of people who bring us good Photo Courtesy: Twitter Twitter news through their work. We applaud the efforts of Loden Foundation and many other Bhuta- twitter.com/ bhutanraven nese people who work dedicatedly to improve society. Last, but not least, an apology to all our contributors and readers for the errors in last month’s issue. A big Thank you to each one of you who wrote to and about us. Thank you also to con- write to us tributors, readers and advertisers.
Stay Warm!!
Sonam Ongmo Editor-at-Large
The Raven NOV-DEC, 2012 3 TEAM & contributOrs
Executive Director Kesang P. Dorji Publisher Dechen Ongmo
Editor at Large Sonam Ongmo Managing Editor Karma Choden Feature Editor Mitra Raj Dhital Correspondent Tshering Dorji Designer Tashi Palden
AFD Karma Wangchuk & Tshewang Dem Circulation Tshering Rinchen Intern Sonam Yangki
Nima Tshering has a Peky Samal is a freelance PhD in economics, writer and the former edi- public policy & public tor of The Bhutanese. leadership.
Karma Pem Wangdi worked as a reporter in the BBS. She now lives in The Netherlands.
Sangay Phuntsho is Karma Singye Dorji is a school-teacher by the author of ‘Dream- profession and writes ing of Prayer Flages: regularly for local Stories & Images from newspapers. Bhutan.’
The Raven is a monthly publication ( Registration no 302000004) Content Copyright © The Raven. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form. The Raven is not responsible for statements expressed by non-staff contributors or advertising claims. The magazine cannot be held responsible for loss or damage of unsolicited material. Subscription enquiries and change of address should be sent to The Raven PO Box 1047, Thimphu. For international orders outside Bhutan please contact Business Director at telephone no +975-2-338953 Email [email protected].
4 TheThe Raven Raven OCTOBER,NOV-DEC, 2012 2012 news in brief OCT-NOV
JAPAN Bhutanese Karate Master brings home gold medal
ensei Ugyen Wangchuk won SBhutan a gold medal in the men’s black-belt open category in Tokyo, Japan on November 25. He represented Bhutan in the tourna- ment that saw a total of 500 par- ticipants from Australia, England, Nepal, Sri Lanka, Bhutan, Canada and Argentina.
THIMPHU A 15-year-old shoots his father
15-year old boy shot his A38-year-old father to death trashigang on October 28. The teenager was detained in the Woman and Child A community school marks its silver jubilee Protection Unit on the day of the incident. The case will soon be abrang Community Primary Shool in Phongmey, Trashigang, began forwarded to the Office of the At- Yas an extended classroom that accomodated 57 students in 1987, torney General for prosecution by with a lone teacher running it. The school recently celebrated its silver the Thimphu police. jubilee to mark the Sherig Century. Today, the school has 126 students supported by seven dedicated teachers.
THIMPHU
trashiYANGTSE 75-year-old rapist imprisoned No to quarry he Thimphu District Court illagers of Chumdu in Yangtse are against the Dzongkhag’s decision Tsentenced a 75-year-old man Vto allow stone quarrying in Roshingdhung village. Three households to nine years and three months have land below Roshingdhung and are likely to be affected by the quarry. imprisonment for raping and im- Villagers say they can’t give away their only cultivable lands. And, the pregnating a 16-year-old girl. 4.14 acres is the only land the three land owners have.
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RMA Governor Daw tenzin Private consumption shouldn’t In a meeting with officials be mixed with national interest. from the ministry of finance, finan- cial institutions and the private sector.
tshewang tashi There will always be a Who gave up her career of 23 AROUND replacement in the civil years in the civil service to contest service but in politics, it is as a Druk Kyen- Ngyam Tshogpa On Unemployment very difficult to get people. candidate in the When leaders tell our young 2013 general election. graduates to go farm, I wish they would take the lead by sending off one of their kids to kunzang choden go farm first: Kencho Wangdi on At the launch We are strange and foolish people of the first two Twitter. books by Riyang who love books. - a publishing house. On PM’s speech The PM’s speech to layaps sounded a lot like campaign promises. Is the PM campaigning when he talks about the 11th Five british high We, at Great Britain, are looking commissioner to Year Plan. Yes, especially when he india, Sir James tells villagers about the govern- at every possible ways to david bevan Commenting on ments plan for next five years: implement this noble philosophy. GNH during his Opposition Leader,Tshering Tobgay recent visit to Bhutan. on Twitter. Gyelpozhing Issue DPT says there was no corruption professor tetsuo in Gyelpozhing. If so, why We don’t want Bhutan to make the furuichi give back the land. There’s no rational At a symposium same mistakes we made in Japan. held for Japanese explanation to what JYT and gang are and Bhutanese doing: architects in Thimphu. KP on Twitter.
The Raven NOV-DEC, 2012 7 NOT JUST YOUR MONTHLY GUARDIAN... WE’RE MUCH MORE!
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Dochula Tshechu DEC 13 DOCHULA To honour the heroes of the 2003 militatry operation, Her Majesty the Queen Mother Ashi Dorji Wangmo Wangchuck has commissioned the Dochula Tshechu. The festival promises to be different as it will be carried out by the Royal Bhutan Army rather than the monastic body. PROGRAMS
YOUNG LEADERS FOR BUSINESS AND JOB OPPORTUNITIES DEC 10-15 WANGDICHOLING RESORT, BUMTHANG Phuensum Gyalwang in collaboration with the Ministry of Labour and Human Resources and the learning exchange foundation, The Netherlands, is offering a program that will help those who are interested to explore their potential in the Druk Wangyel National Archery SPORTS tourism and hospitality sector. The program will Tournament provide business opportunities and trainings by NOV-DEC 2012 professionals in and outside Bhutan. 9TH NATIONAL INTER-DZONGKHAG TAEKWONDO CHANGLIMITHANG, THIMPHU TOURNAMENT Organised by the Bhutan Archery Federation, DEC the tournament attracts teams from all over the CAMPAIGN THIMPHU country. WORLD AIDS DAY Contestants from every Dzongkhag in the coun- golf - senior asian amateur open DEC 1 try are waiting in anticipation for the inter Dzong- NOV 28-30 LUGAR THEATRE, THIMPHU khag taekwodo tournament to begin. Organised by the Bhutan Teakwondo Federation, the dates HONG KONG Woezer Associates will organize a walk through for the tournament have yet to be finalised. Three contestants from Bhutan participated in the City to mark World AIDS Day. The organizers the Senior Asian Amateur Open Golf Tourna- are expecting more than 500 participants to turn ment held in Hongkong last month. up for the event.
TheThe Raven Raven NOV-DEC,OCTOBER, 2012 2012 9 cover story
Photo Courtesy: Google
In pursuit of The Hot Seat
In 1999 when Bhutan announced it was going to bid for a non-permanent seat at the United Nations Security Council there was hardly a ripple, leave alone a chorus of objection. That was partly because there was only one newspaper, no freedom of press, and most people probably didn’t understand what it meant.
10 The Raven NOV-DEC, 2012 ast-forward a decade to 2012. Much in which top decision making bodies largely out of merit and ability, but had changed. With press freedom and and institutions, including the UN more as a soilra, or they have a relative Fdemocracy, there was a media making Security Council, is more inclusive and influential enough to make it happen. information accessible to people, who in reflective of a greater diversity of views The Royal Civil Service Commission’s turn asked many questions. So it is no and approaches.” Bhutan’s foremost imposition of certain rules instead of surprise that a great deal has been said foreign policy goal has always been letting the Foreign Ministry set their and reported about Bhutan’s bid for the and remains the strengthening of its own criteria may have also added UNSC seat. However, apart from finger status as a sovereign independent to problems. As a result, over the pointing there has been little analysis nation, she said. Election to the UNSC years there have been embarrassing of what happened. There are lessons, would demonstrate unequivocally, even situations that the Bhutanese especially for the government, that we more effectively than UN membership, government has had to encounter can glean from this experience: political recognition of state sovereignty given the lack of understanding of by all UN member states. some people of the responsibilities i) Our understanding of what it really associated with representing the takes to conduct and win such a But despite having the ball in our court, country internationally. There have campaign Bhutan appears to have done little to been complaints from people outside ii) That such an analysis may reveal develop a clear-cut campaigning strategy and within Foreign Ministry about the our dysfunction, especially at the for almost a decade. In fact, the Ministry struggles for postings and travel, and Foreign Ministry - who had the task was dormant on this issue until 2010. people question whether diplomats are of launching this campaign, and We have always been known to be last seriously serving the interests of the iii) That this dysfunction is really a minute people, but while last minute country while they are overseas. Are microcosm of working conditions may work in Bhutan, it doesn’t in the they there to enjoy postings or to build at the Macro level in Bhutan. It is international arena. So in 2010, we were up bi-lateral and multi-lateral relations something that if left uncorrected suddenly confronted with the reality for the country? If this had been done or unacknowledged, we will that we were no longer alone and there consistently and diligently over the continue to pay a price for. One that was competition. By now South Korea years, then perhaps the last minute is more costly in the long run than had also announced its candidacy. There dash to forge diplomatic relations or the UNSC seat. was much to do. seek votes for a high-level campaign The Prime Minister as well as Foreign wouldn’t have been so dire. And how Ministry officials repeatedly said the The Campaign can such oversight be hinged onto one process was more important than the man? We are equally complicit in it seat. So what have we learnt – now that When Foreign Ministry woke up to this because this working culture persists we don’t have the seat? To understand issue in 2010, it was without a leader. not only in the Foreign Ministry but that lets take a look at the journey. The Foreign Minister, Lyonpo Ugen it is inherent in our system and in Tshering, also a career diplomat, was the way the Bhutanese work – enjoy Bhutan makes a decision, but does little unfortunately ill and unable to provide the perks but not the duty. Putting in for ten years. leadership for the campaign. For extra hours or doing our homework whatever reasons, the Prime Minister has little or no space in our working Bhutan’s decision to bid for the Asia- chose not to find a new Foreign culture. pacific slot as non- permanent member Minister, but instead allowed Foreign at UNSC was not taken arbitrarily. Ministry to put forward, what many The Prime Minister still has the power According to Lhatu Wangchuk, thought, was a weak substitute - Foreign to change the course of this working Ambassador of the Permanent Mission Secretary. People at the Foreign Ministry culture, but he seems to be very of Bhutan to the UN: “We looked at the have blamed lack of leadership and much like us, in that he makes room candidates for the Asian Group [in 1999] divisive ways of working that weakened for it. To his detriment it seems that and found that there were no candidates an already enfeebled Ministry. “What travel opportunities – very coveted for the term 2013-2014. Bhutan was the little institution was left at the Ministry amongst Bhutanese government lone candidate from the Asian Group for was killed by the UNSC campaign,” employees – may be one reason a long time until 2005 when Cambodia one officer said. Another said, “If why his delegation has consisted of joined the race followed by the Republic we had taken it seriously – from the officials who aren’t even familiar with of Korea in 2007.” Ambassador moment we decided to run – then we his office. The danger of this is that Wangchuk, who will retire soon after should have been building up Human the Prime Minister has wound up serving 36 years largely as a diplomat, Resources.” Yet another said there was with an unorganized, untrained, and added: “Personally, I take it as a great no teamwork. unprofessional delegation that also honor and privilege to have participated doesn’t do its homework. This was in one of the boldest foreign policy But what was happening in the Foreign clearly reflected in one incident on the undertakings of our country.” Ministry is, perhaps, indicative of what campaign. The Prime Minister, who happens generally in other sectors in is diabetic, had been tirelessly holding So at the time we announced our bid the overall Bhutanese system. Other bilateral meetings and calling on we had everything going for us – no countries have professional foreign Heads of States day in and day out for other competitors. We also had the services where officers apprentice for a week. After a string of such meetings right conviction. Foreign Ministry years before they assume the role of one afternoon, he entered the Bhutan official, Doma Tshering: “Our ambassador. In Bhutan we have made Mission exhausted and unwell. His candidature was recognized as a call ambassadors of people who have little blood sugar was extremely low and for a more democratic, representative, or no experience as diplomats. And still, not a single person accompanying and equitable international system, some even get posted as diplomats not him was prepared to deal with it. For
The Raven NOV-DEC, 2012 11 cover story
diabetic patients maintaining repatriate them. In the U.S alone their blood sugar level is very about 30,000 had arrived. important. When it drops, a doze of sugar either in the form of a On the Internet and in sweet or orange juice is all that mainstream news, including what many is needed. Not one person with New York Times, there were the PM was equipped. It was repeated articles about the have failed fortunate that he hadn’t collapsed Refugees, casting dubious in front of foreign diplomats. shadows over Bhutan and to see is that Forget security concerns, or its monarchy. By the end of knowing how to be a part of a 2010, there was a complete Bhutan’s campaign, our professionalism, turnaround in the international efficiency and preparedness at all media. Now they were raving image in the levels is clearly lacking. If it had about this little country. It is been another country’s delegate not an understatement to say international anyone around the Prime that it is a diplomatic feat, when Minister that day would’ve been Bhutan managed to get one of media prior held accountable for such a lapse. its biggest dilemmas resolved Instead, nothing happened. during this time. The question of to 2010 was whether to take back the existing So despite critics thinking his refugees who could prove they becoming innumerous overseas trips have were Bhutanese, or leave them been nothing but pleasurable languishing in the camps increasingly experiences, in hindsight, it is was overcome when the U.S pretty amazing that in three eventually agreed to repatriate all. years, Bhutan’s profile in the This was achieved in discussions negative. international arena was uplifted over the course of the UNSC at in a way it has never before. A campaign. Bhutan’s problem with Singaporean diplomat envying the refugees will not go away, but small Bhutan’s ability to get having it resolved in a manner the spotlight unlike Cambodia where both sides have benefitted or S.Korea, is said to have is more than remarkable. In a remarked at our ability to garner world where crisis after crisis international attention. Through pumps out refugees resulting his ability to capture audiences from war and strife, not out of Election Day at international forums and economic situations, Bhutan was spotlight GNH, it was also able to clinch one of the greatest As described by diplomats who were another surprise for many deals ever. there, the atmosphere was tense, countries that a high level body overwhelming and intimidating. like the UNGA endorsed the If we weren’t blown away by it, Veteran diplomats and UN officials “Happiness Resolution” proposed at least some of our international are aware that UN elections are highly by the PM last year. If only GNH critics were. An Inner City Press political and as one said, “notoriously and image could have gotten us (Investigative Reporting from the unpredictable”. It involves coercion, the votes. United Nations) journalist who arm-twisting, gifts and money – has been focusing on Bhutan’s allegedly buying of votes. Yes, all this For many residing in Bhutan, “ethnic cleansing” evidently said, at the UN. According to diplomats this may not have mattered “This is diplomacy at its highest.” South Korea had a huge delegation at all – and they have a point. working the floor. “They had people Internally the nation was facing However, it is clear that the stationed every three rows. It was a the Rupee shortage, banks had entire approach to the campaign well-oiled machine where they were tightened credit, and some was divided, or as one described strategically positioned throughout the policies by the government it “half-hearted.” Apparently hall,” said one. They also followed the were not sitting well with the internal discussions indicated other delegations on the floor keeping public. The PM was harshly that even as we were nearing the track of their every move. “That’s criticized for not staying home election some thought we should diplomacy,” someone sarcastically said. and accused of globetrotting. have pulled out. But withdrawing However, what many have failed midway was not an option. “The only ones you can believe are to see is that meanwhile Bhutan’s According to Ambassador Lhatu. ones who tell you outright they won’t image in the international media “It would have sent a wrong vote for you,” said one diplomat. It is prior to 2010 was becoming signal to our supporters and well- advised that 50 % of the assurances increasingly negative. Thousands wishers”. Another claimed that you get before the election should of Bhutanese refugees that had apart from the fact that it (losing) be discounted. And that is just what been in the camps in Nepal were was a done deal it was the half- happened. “Going into the election pouring into the UK, Australia heartedness of some at the Bhutan received a significant number and U.S after they agreed to Ministry that was to blame. of commitments and support from a
12 The Raven NOV-DEC, 2012 Photo Courtesy: Google
wide range of international partners. Bhutan had earlier received. “We saw a Prime Minister who “wowed” the Regrettably, at the election Bhutan the votes literally falling away,” said International community and uplifted suffered a severe rate of attrition,” said one. Bhutan’s profile in the international one diplomat who was at the election. arena at a critical time. On the other Criticism we have an Opposition Leader who Meanwhile, off-the-record conversations has single-handedly done his job of reveal that the Koreans had “skillfully The day Bhutan lost the elections “opposing” extremely well. He has orchestrated” their campaign. After the Opposition Leader held a Press managed to keep a check and balance all they have a power base at the UN, Conference calling Bhutan’s bid on the existing government and he has as well as money. “The determining for the UNSC an “Ill conceived and done what Oppositions do best – use factors were the powers behind misguided Policy.” But for observers of every opportunity to incite and oppose Cambodia,” said one diplomat. With this episode it should make us proud – pretty successfully. China and Russia actively lobbying that we have in the Prime Minister for Cambodia it apparently took away and Opposition, two formidable people As the PM has pointed out, it is rather from the vote bank commitments that in our country. On one hand we have ironical that for someone who ran in
The Raven NOV-DEC, 2012 13 cover story
an election in which his party suffered win because we couldn’t afford to host made soft power a critical component an even greater attrition rate than the $20,000 dinners, and more. This is the of foreign policy strategies. As more country did at the UN, the Opposition reality in the world of realpolitik. What is foreign ministers wake up to this new Leader should feel so strongly that the soft power? It is a term coined by Jospeh reality, soft power is no longer the country should have never taken part Nye (Harvard) in 1990 and is defined preserve of western states.” Bhutan in the elections. as “the ability of one state to change the may just have been ahead of its time. behavior of others through the means of Does this mean that his party’s bid was attraction and persuasion, rather than In the end we all have our views about ill conceived and misguided? Should coercion and payment.” Unfortunately, how things should’ve proceeded. But it he have pulled out at the 11th hour? It’s this dramatic shift in the foreign policy should be remembered that for every good he didn’t because even as one of of many countries is just unfolding and loss, there is some gain, and short of the lone representatives of PDP he is coercion and payment still count. consoling ourselves on our loss, we making his contributions and a huge might as well learn from it. If you are difference in the political landscape of According to writer Jonathan McClory: a seasoned politician or diplomat, this Bhutan. “No longer the purview of foreign should be all too familiar. Elections are policy wonks, soft power is now firmly won and lost all the time, and nobody – Also although Bhutan made great embedded in the dispatches, speeches, particularly a small country like Bhutan inroads globally with GNH, our and discourse of senior diplomats, – wins the first time round especially efforts to campaign solely on this world leaders, and news editors around given the politics and resources it soft power did not pay off. There is the globe – and with good reason...A takes. It takes decades to convince an element of truth in what Lyonpo shifting balance of global power and the international body of our capacity, Khandu Wangchuk said; that we didn’t the effects of instant information have our intent, and building alliances is
Photo Courtesy: Google
14 The Raven NOV-DEC, 2012 China and Russia actively lobbying for Cambodia apparently took away from the vote bank commitments that Bhutan had earlier received.
Photo Courtesy: Google
Posing for the cameras PM Jigmi Y. Thinley with the Secretary-General of the United Nations, Ban Ki-moon. paramount. But most importantly it is preparedness. We can say it was a done deal, but we should look at our own working culture and our naiveté that may also have attributed to this loss. We gave it a shot when we could, There are 193 member countries of the United Nations. Of that 192 mem- and we lost. As ambassador Lhatu said bers were present at voting. Elections with some nostalgia, “Bhutan will not were held on October 18, 2012 in New be able to contest again for a long time, York during the 67th Session of the UN certainly not in my lifetime, because General Assembly. other countries in the Asian group have already presented their candidatures for Countries: Total votes: 2050.” Rwanda 148
Republic of Korea 116
COMFORTABLY Cambodia 62 CANDID Bhutan 20 The PM BY SONAM ONGMO WITH ADDITIONAL shares a light REPORTING BY TSHERING DORJI. Tanzania 3 moment with his DR of Congo 1 interviewer.
The Raven NOV-DEC, 2012 15 The European Union is now looking at a more political type of relationship with Bhutan, says Ambassador João Cravinho in this exclusive interview with The Raven.
1) What brings you to lateral channels of development seek to work with the priorities of Bhutan this time around? assistance. What is the European the Bhutanese authorities. So, if Well, I am the ambassador to Union’s stance on this? you ask where our development Bhutan. And, I want to come Well, it’s a matter for the partnership is going, it is going here as frequently as possible. Bhutanese authorities and not where the Bhutanese develop- This time, I am here for the sign- for us to decide. What I can say ment philosophy takes it. This ing of agreements on combating from our side is we very much means, of course, resources are climate change for .4 million Eu- appreciate the path Bhutan has never infinite, we need to make ros and for various projects that been on and is continuing on. choices. We think that we can be are in different stages of comple- Therefore, we will continue to very supportive to the various pil- tion. So, there’s a lot of work provide support throughout the lars that make up Bhutan’s GNH that is ongoing and this means period of the 11th Five Year Plan. vision. Namely, the environmen- it’s important to have a regular As far as the European Union is tal and socio-economical pillars presence in Bhutan. Also, Bhutan concerned, there will certainly are where we can make the most is changing and the European be no decline. We think that impact. Union is changing. The EU has although Bhutan is making good become, since the Lisbon Treaty, progress, it is going to go through 4) Although we inhabit two a much more political entity. Our a delicate phase because of the totally different environments relations with Bhutan have been consolidation of democracy, and climates, what lessons can very good for various decades but and because of the challenges Bhutan learn from the economic they have been mostly technical. between now and 2020 - when meltdown in the Euro Zone? We are now looking at a more po- Bhutan expects to be fully Firstly, we don’t have an eco- litical type of relationship as well. self-reliant. So the message I nomic meltdown. What we have have been transmitting to the is a slower growth than we would Bhutan of course has become Bhutanese authorities is that have liked. We have had difficul- more active in the international they can continue to count on ties also with the governance scene, and we’re interested in the EU as a close friend and as a following up on that and under- development partner. standing the way Bhutan tends to position itself over the next few 3) Where do you see the years. So there are a lot of reasons cooperation between the EU and to come to Bhutan. Regular Bhutan heading in the future? Our reasons related to the process of It’s heading in the direction the following Bhutan’s path, that’s Bhutanese development philoso- development my role as ambassador. And, phy takes it. In other words, for also, specific reasons related to us, it is very important that our partnership is the development partnership development support should be particularly the new 4.4 billion closely aligned with the priorities going where Euro project that is being carried of the Bhutanese authorities. And out in Bhutan. these priorities are summarized, the Bhutanese at the moment, in the 10th Five 2) Some of Bhutan’s Year Plan and, in the near future, development existing bi-lateral development in the 11th Five Year Plan which partners are in the process of is in the process of being final- philosophy either phasing out or down ized. We take that as our guid- scaling their support. Against ing document. We don’t have a takes it. such a backdrop, Bhutan might different philosophy that we seek have to seek out new multi- to impose on the country. We
16 The Raven NOV-DEC, 2012 of the Euro. But that’s basically well as the more traditional socio-economic develop- the end date for the Millen- resolved now. Bhutan has noth- ments. In a certain sense, this is a continuation of the nium Development Goals ing similar in its make-up. We’ve path which development philosophies have been on (MDGs), people are thinking created a common currency that for decades. about what the focus should brings together 17 countries. be after the MDGs. I think the This is extremely complex and For many years, development was thought of exclu- concept of GNH will have a extremely ambitious, and it went sively in terms of economic growth. That was the only very important role to play. through a difficult phase because indicator that counted. And then in the 1980s, people the architecture of the Euro had like Amartya Sen and Mahbub Ul Haq began to work 6) Bhutan recently bid some gaps in it. These gaps have with the UNDP on alternative methods for measuring unsuccessfully for the UNSC now been covered. I think a year development. They produced a human development non-permanent seat. In your or so ago we were worried that it index. They took it from the level of the country to the opinion, could we have done might collapse entirely but we’ve level of the human reality. And now. what we are find- better? managed to put in place the ing, in the last few years, is that, although there was a I can tell you that it is ex- necessary mechanisms to make big improvement in the human development index, tremely difficult and extremely sure the Euro survives properly. we now need to take a step further to integrate into the gratifying at the same time. Now what we’re doing is focusing human development index other elements which are Bhutan is a country that has on bringing growth back to the not present such as, the environment and the quality recently embarked on the Euro Zone and that is something of life which the GNH concept manages to do. So, I process of reaching out much everybody will see during the find this, looking at how development has been pro- more widely to other parts of course of the next year. We don’t gressing, to be on the one hand an important the world. And, because it is pretend to give any lessons to step and on the other, a part of a recent, I think that it would Bhutan as we do live in different progression. And, I think, have been extremely difficult contexts. For us, what is impor- it’s very much in Bhu- for Bhutan to be successful in tant in our relations with Bhutan tan’s credit that it has its attempt for this kind of is that, the development support been the country that candidacy. But, I also know, has been ring-fenced so that it is has drawn the world’s because I was here in April protected and that it will continue attention to this issue. and had the opportu- in the same level if not higher de- So now that we are nity to listen to Bhutanese spite the economic circumstances coming close to 2015, authorities talking about in Europe. this issue, that the objec- tive was not simply to be 5) In the face of the Euro Zone crisis, where traditional models of development have failed to guarantee prosperity, do you think that a new paradigm like GNH (Gross National Happiness) could provide an alternative solution? I think GNH is an extremely interesting paradigm that has attracted a lot of international attention and deservedly so. I re- member two years ago when your prime minister presented it to the UN General Assembly in New York, I happened to be there, and it immediately attracted attention. Partly, of course, because in this cold, hard and dry world of eco- nomics, people were using terms such as happiness. But then, after the initial surprise, when people began to think more deeply about what was involved, it made a lot of sense that the approach to development should be a bal- anced one. It should be one that contains elements related to the environment, related to culture, related to personal satisfaction as
The Raven NOV-DEC, 2012 17 It is not easy to be on the Security Council. Sometimes, it is much more comfortable to be outside. elected or simply to gather as many votes as possible. The objective was to gain a much deeper understanding of the world and to allow the world to gain a deeper understanding of Bhutan. And that I think has been successful. I know from personal experience that that is one of the most interesting aspects of running a campaign for the Security Council because it forces you to enter into contact with 182 other representatives in the UN. This process of outreach is extremely valuable in itself. Therefore, it shouldn’t be seen simply as success or failure. Photo Courtesy: Google 7) In organizations such as the UN, where developed nations call the shots most times, why would small countries like Bhutan, with limited finances and many diplomatic clout, want to secure a seat in challenges and on the other it is a coun- climate change negotiations. the UNSC? try embarking on these challenges with It would have increased the country’s pro- a very open and fresh mind and taking 8) For the last ten years, file but then again this already happened daring positions on issues such as climate Bhutan has been unable to take through the campaign. It would have of – preparing its population for climate a decision regarding the WTO. course obliged Bhutan to take difficult change while seeking to be carbon neutral From the European Union decisions. It is not easy to be on the Secu- in its development path. I think Bhutan perspective, would Bhutan gain if rity Council. Sometimes, it is much more will be a pioneer as these are themes that it were a member of the WTO? comfortable to be outside. are becoming central to the debates in the United Nations. And these are themes that I think this is very much a matter On the other hand, it is not true that are cross-cutting because if one looks, for that the Bhutanese authorities the developed countries call the shots in example, at the G77 and sees China, China have to assess carefully. And I am the UN. They are a minority as they are is not a member of the G77 but in the cli- not sufficiently knowledgeable numerically far fewer than for example the mate change negotiations it works with the about the different aspects that Group of 77 (G77). Having said that, the G77, Chinese reality has absolutely noth- are involved. Don’t forget that world is no longer separated into devel- ing to do with the realities of countries of Bhutan is a country whose trade oped and non-developed or developing the Pacific and the Caribbean and even is overwhelmingly with just countries. That dichotomy, just like the old with countries of the African Continent. one country. And this is a very dichotomy of east and west and the cold So, the G77 logic is highly questionable. different circumstance from war, is no longer valid in contemporary And in just the same way, one looks at the that of most countries around times. developed countries and one finds, what the world. WTO is an institution I believe to be and I like to quote, very that was designed to regulate, Bhutan is a country that is actually very progressive and globally minded approach to be the governing institution well positioned to be a bridge, if it should of the European Union – something that for multi-lateral trade in many wish to be a bridge, to develop relations is no way near that from the United States. different directions. When you with countries with many different reali- So these divisions no longer hold water. deal with one country only, well, ties. It is a country on the one hand with On our side we are very keen to work I know that Bhutan wants to closely with Bhutan in the context of the
18 The Raven NOV-DEC, 2012 diversify so it is not exclusively dependent on one of the challenges that you see for country but, it is, above all, in bilateral discussion the government that comes to with that one overwhelming important trading power? Well, that is really telling you partner that Bhutan can best find its solution. I something. The European Union think this is a delicate matter that the Bhutanese It is true that there are very is 27, shortly 28, countries with authorities must assess and it’s not for us to be important democratic traditions very different experiences. And telling the Bhutanese authorities what the right in the EU. But, I would also point the country that I happen to come thing to do is. We have enormous respect and out that there have been very from, one of its historical trajec- confidence in their good judgment. interesting democratic transi- tory has been very much marked tions in the EU. Twenty years by the period in the 16th Century, 9) You must be aware of the ongoing Rupee ago, a number of EU countries, when it reached out to the rest crisis in the country. What can Bhutan do to avert maybe 12 or so, were dictator- of the world - to the Americas, to such a crisis in the future? ships. So, we have been through Africa, to Asia. It was the pioneer When I came here in April and now again, this has very interesting and rich experi- of globalization. been a very central topic in conversations. And I ences of democratic transitions think there is a developing consensus that one of and I think what we learnt from The fact that the first two the roots of this problem is the reduction of depen- that are two lessons: Firstly, that Europeans to come to Bhutan dence on imports from India alone. This means that each country does have its own were Portuguese is not a coinci- the path of promoting import substitution, so the specificities and, secondly, that dence; this is true of very many creation of industries that are capable of producing in each case it is fundamental to countries in Asia. For example, the necessary consumer goods for the Bhutanese consolidate institutions, and the Vietnam - the one country of the public, is one element. The diversification of export holding of elections is one type region in South-east Asia which is another factor so that Bhutan can avoid being de- of institution (creation of election writes with Roman letters or pended exclusively on hydropower. And, ultimately, commission and so on). alphabets is because the Vietnam- there will have to be balanced books, Bhutan still has ese language was first codified a high degree or 30% dependence on donor support Also, other institutions like the by Portuguese Jesuits like Father and there is a lot of work going on to reduce or even parliament and the institution Cacella and Father Cabral. And to eliminate that level of dependence. When that is such as an active anti- corruption so the mark of Portuguese pres- achieved, it will certainly create much better circum- commission is very important ence in the world is one that stances for avoiding the Rupee crunch. But, at the including the auditors. These in- brings a great deal of pride to moment, you have many more imported goods from stitutions are essential elements contemporary Portuguese. That India than exported goods and with parity between and you can legislate and create also provides the country with a the currencies and with enormous ease of circula- these institutions from one date good background to understand- tion of the Rupee in Bhutan; it’s difficult to avoid the to the next, but to consolidate ing other parts of the world and rupee crunch. It will be very hard, there won’t be an them takes a number of years of that is an important reason why immediate solution that can be found, but in the lon- appropriate practice. One of the Portugal was elected to the UN ger term the Bhutanese authorities would identify aspects that I found very inter- Security Council. So, the histori- the nature of the problem and the way out. esting in my conversations here cal experience which we had was with government ministers is the extremely important in providing 10) Bhutan’s transition to democracy was a importance they attribute to prec- the backdrop for that moment. matter of interest to the EU in 2008. Now with the edent. They are very concerned to next elections round the bend, to what extent does do things properly because they Christiano Ronaldo is a contem- the EU’s interest in Bhutanese democracy go? know that the decisions that they porary expression of Portuguese We fully maintain and understand that democracy make, good ones or bad ones, reality, who of course is a very is not just about elections. The elections are funda- will be cited as precedence. I great player and of whom we are mental for democracy but they are an insufficient think that is extremely important very proud of. But he is only one basis. In 2008, everything went very well and there and a wise attitude. So I think we among many great football play- was an EU observer mission - as you pointed out don’t have many lessons to teach ers. I think the Bhutanese foot- - which made a number of recommendations and (because what we have to teach ball lovers will also recognize that which said that the elections were free and fair and the Bhutanese already know). apart from Christiano Ronaldo, also made recommendations on how to improve the some years ago, there was Luis electoral administration. Most of these recommen- 12) Is there something you Figo and Xavier - for those with dations have been taken on board and that’s very would like the Bhutanese people a longer memory. So, I think, satisfying for us. Now, for 2013, we are discussing to know about your own home another aspect that the Bhutanese with the Bhutanese authorities whether to send an country because most of us here people will be interested to know observer mission – not because we are worried that can only think of Christiano is the passion that people have the elections will not be fair, that is not a matter of Ronaldo when it comes to for football is something that has concern. Portugal along with the first two happened as a result of Portu- Europeans (both Portugese) to set guese football players –going 11) Bhutan goes to polls for the second foot on Bhutanese soil in 1627– round the world as pioneers in time next year. What can Bhutan learn from the Father Estevao Cacella and Father some cases. democratic traditions of the EU and what are some Joao Cabral.
The Raven NOV-DEC, 2012 19 photo essay
celestial cranes
The picturesque Phobjika Valley, in the backdrop of the Black Mountain Range, has rich biodiversity of flora and fauna. This, coupled with religious importance of the Gangtey Monastery, has attracted religious and ecotourism to the valley.
The habits, habitats and cultural significance of the sacred cranes of Bhutan.
20 The Raven NOV-DEC, 2012 In the Phobjika valley, the Black-necked Cranes have a celebrity status, as witnessed by the Crane Festival held every year on November 11-12.
Tamiki Nakashima, a senior environment officer at the Thimphu Thromde, captures the Black-necked Cranes - frame by frame. .
The Raven NOV-DEC, 2012 21 Farmers believe this rare and endangered bird better known in Bhutan as Thrung Thrung Karmo portends a good harvest if seen flying in circular patterns above their fields.
just like the Bhutanese people do,” says the senior environment officer with the Thimphu Thromde, refer- ring to the Bhutanese propensity to consult astrological charts to deter- mine favorable dates for moving or travel.
An endangered species The estimated global population of Black Necked Cranes is about 7,000. In the early 1990s their population in Bhutan was recorded at 1,743 individ- uals. The numbers dropped to 1,664 returning cranes between 1996 and 2000. Largely because of ongoing conservation efforts the numbers have gone back up to 2,352 cranes as recorded by the Royal Society for Protection of Nature (RSPN).
Threats The biggest threat to the continued he birds of heaven arrive fields. The Tibetan people believed that health of Black Necked Crane popula- in a sweet deluge after the the cranes would guide and carry one’s tions comes, not unexpectedly, from monsoon has receded and spirit after death. The Chinese have always human encroachment. The problems the land looks to the sky in associated them with luck. In Buddhism are most pronounced on their winter its greatest need. No wonder in Bhutan, and perhaps elsewhere, they grounds where the wetlands have Tthey have long symbolized blessings and are generally thought to be messengers been extensively irrigated, drained, plenty on the land. from the heavenly realms of the gods. The dammed, or else used for grazing For centuries, Bhutanese people have sacred cranes also appear in Bhutanese livestock. lived in close harmony with the Black folklore, song, dance and other forms of Necked Cranes. Some, especially in Phob- celebration, including the national sport The Crane Festival jikha Valley, believe they are the souls of of archery where the victors mimic the The annual Black Necked Crane Fes- formerly deceased lamas returning each cranes after scoring a bull’s-eye. Accord- tival in the Phobjikha Valleys helps year to pay their respects to the valley’s ing to the man who has been filming and raise awareness while enabling local Gangtey monastery. Farmers across the studying these beautiful creatures, Tamiki people to supplement their income. kingdom believe this rare and endangered Nakashima, the Bhutanese even attribute In its fourteenth year since its incep- bird better known in Bhutan as Thrung them with human qualities and sensibili- tion, the festival today is a popular Thrung Karmo portends a good harvest if ties. tourist attraction. Each year around seen flying in circular patterns above their “They have auspicious days for moving November 11 and 12 (coinciding with
22 The Raven OCTOBER,NOV-DEC, 20122012 Phobjika Valley is rich in faunal biodiversity and has, apart from the endangered Black-necked Cranes, 13 other globally threatened species.
The annual Black-necked Crane Festival in the Phob- jikha Valley helps raise awareness while enabling His Majesty the Fourth King’s birth local people to supplement anniversary) this collection of modern their income. ecological moral tales, dances mimick- ing the cranes, and theater highlighting the behavior and cultural relevance of the birds makes a significant contribu- tion to the conservation efforts to pro- tect them. Part of the proceeds from the festival is also used directly to benefit the cranes.
A source of national pride This last species of cranes discovered by a Russian Ornithologist has, today, become an important part of Bhutanese daily life and awareness. For the mo- ment, the cause of the cranes have won over the need for harvesting potatoes, a significant landmark decision for both the inhabitants of the valleys where the
TheThe RavenRaven OCTOBER,NOV-DEC, 2012 23 photo essay
The biggest threat to the continued health of Black Necked Crane populations comes, not unexpectedly, from hu- man encroachment.
The Black-necked Cranes (Grus nigricollis) are winter visitors to the Phobjika Valley from the Tibetan Plateau where they breed
24 The Raven NOV-DEC, 2012 The crane festival underway in the Dances mimicking the cranes courtyards of the contribute significantly to Gangtey Gonpa. the conservation efforts to protect the magnificent creatures. cranes roost and for the Bhuta- ceived the very stars in the light nese people in general. of day. It could be argued that this is per- The presence of healthy popula- haps the conjuration of an overac- tions of the cranes in Bhutan is tive, if poetic imagination, But not merely a joy to behold but there is no mistaking the wonder enhances our international repu- and delight a child, indeed adults tation as a land where nature and even, may feel when they see the the environment are valued above elegant cranes treading gently on material gains. a green and blessed land. No wonder the farmers dance in Conclusion ecstasy as the cranes fly overhead It is said that when a child sees and women cover their mouths the white clouds of the Black with delighted glee even as the Necked Cranes descend upon crane frolic below them in their a valley, it is as if they have per- fields.
The Raven NOV-DEC, 2012 25 photo essay
The presence of healthy populations of the cranes in Bhutan is not merely a joy to behold but enhances our international reputation as a land where nature and the environment are valued above material gains.
26 The Raven NOV-DEC, 2012
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Draft Message for Half page advertisement in the Raven Magazine The Raven NOV-DEC, 2012 27
Photo Courtesy: RSPN Draft Message for Half page advertisement in the Raven Magazine happenings
“BHUTAN, is it in Central America?” A World Horticultural Expo called the were needed as an aid for some. Floriade was held in The Netherlands this Bhutan was lucky to have sincere year. Bhutan was represented by a group well-wishers promoting the country and its culture. They vol- of volunteers called the friends of Bhutan. unteered their time and energy to make the Bhutanese platform a success. The stand was built with the help of sponsors many of them who had never even been HUTAN, is it in Cen- offered to help somebody without to Bhutan, but had simply been tral America? Is it near asking anything in return…Please inspired by the GNH philosophy. India? Isn’t that the wait a moment. The organising committee for happiest country in When was the last time that you the Bhutan Stand were Dutch the world?” These are had a good laugh…Please wait a entrepreneurs – Ms Henriette Bsome of the reactions that we got moment. Stroucken, whose company man- from people visiting the Bhutan Please think about the happiest mo- ages several sustainable projects, Stand at the Villa Flora. Bhutan ment in your life…Touch here. Peter van de Ven specialising was one of the 42 countries that Are you ready to meet the person in marketing and communica- participated at the World’s largest that makes you happier…Yes tion, and me, who’s been living horticulture expo - The Floriade, Look to the ceiling and greet the one in The Netherlands for the past held in the city of Venlo, in The who brings you more happiness… 16 years. Henriette Stroucken Netherlands. Looking up at the ceiling, you who was also the main initiator for Bhutan’s participation at the It was a perfect platform to pro- were greeted by your own image Floriade said that although we did mote the country and make peo- from a mirror. After all that is not get funding from the Royal ple aware of the factual aspects of who makes “you” happy. Government of Bhutan, we got Bhutan’s development philosophy Smiling and giving us a thumbs nominal support from The Royal of Gross National Happiness. To up most of the visitors agreed Bhutanese Embassy in Brussels, do that, the organising committee that in this day and age, especial- The Tourism Council of Bhutan, set up the “House of Happiness” ly in the West where people have The GNH Commission and where we had a touch screen with to make extra time and effort for the Ministry of Agriculture and a photo of smiling monks in the social contact, this was a simple Forestry Services. She also said background. One could select the experience to make them realize that we were tremendously sup- language in English, Dutch or one thing. That in the end, a mo- ported by The Honorary Counsel German with a series of ques- ment of reflection; a mere look at of Bhutan to The Netherlands, tions: yourself in the mirror might get Mr Cornelis Klein. Some officials Meet the person that is going to you thinking about who makes from the Ministry of Agriculture make you happier…Touch here. you happy - largely yourself. That and Forestry Services and The When was the last time that you it is through introspection and self-reflection - even if mirrors Tourism Council of Bhutan also
28 The Raven NOV-DEC, 2012 FRIENDS OF BHUTAN Karma Pem Wangdi with The “BHUTAN, is it in Central Honorary Counsel of Bhutan to The Netherlands, Mr Kees Klein and management of the America?” Floriade, 2012.
came to promote the country. theater and a source of inspira- Thimphu stand up and those who There were diverse art and cul- tion, fun and entertainment. think Kathmandu is the capital, tural programmes from differ- The visitors got to see the world’s please sit down. Those of you who ent countries. The Floriade park most unique and beautiful flora are standing may continue with itself was organized around five and fauna, vegetables and fruits. the quiz. themes . More than two million visitors Not surprisingly, most of the Relax and heal- The importance from all over Europe and other students had never heard of of horticulture for health and continents visited the Floriade Bhutan. They were asked a wellbeing. out of which 1.6 million visited series of questions until a Green engine- Horticulture as a the Bhutan Stand. The Exhibi- single student was declared the supplier of green energy. tion which was for six months winner of the quiz and given a Education and Innovation- The saw about 20,000 visitors a day memento to remember a day relation between innovation and including school children. Louis in which she never imagined education and development of Breul, one of the volunteers who that information or knowledge the sector. is a former school teacher kept about Bhutan would make her Environment- A green working some of the school children busy feel so special. 30 countries held and living environment delivers by quizzing them on Bhutan. their national day at the Floriade an enormous contribution to “Is Thimphu or Kathmandu the including Bhutan. We held ours our quality of life, and the World capital city of Bhutan? Those on September 22, where special show stage- Nature is a great who think that the right answer is envoy of The Prime Minister of
The Raven NOV-DEC, 2012 29 Peter van de ven and henriette stroucken with the Bhutanese Ambassador to the European Union, Sonam Tshong.
GNH has caught the attention of not only the Dutch, but many others around the world who are struggling to find a balance between economic and social development.
Bhutan, Lyonpo Dago Tsher- about it, there is certainly some- ing and the former Dutch thing about our country that is Sports Minister, Erica Trepstra appealing to many. If there was launched “The Queen of Bhu- nothing of it there then why tan” tulip. It was an initiative of would people feel so strongly the Bhutan & Partners, a Dutch about Bhutan? If people out- KARMA PEM WANGDI NGO to commemorate the Royal side can believe in it and feel so Wedding. They also dedicated strongly about it, maybe it is time the day to promoting friendship that the educated Bhutanese tried and cooperation between the to build upon what is there. GNH Dutch and Bhutanese people. is not something that one person While there has been increas- can promise the country, nor is it ing skepticism and cynicism of up to that one person to make it GNH in Bhutan, I must say that happen. It is a collective endeav- it is a development philosophy our; a philosophy; an attitude; an which has caught the attention approach to life, to development. of not only the Dutch, but many It is nothing new to the Bhuta- others around the world who nese. After all Buddhism is the are struggling to find a balance same and we are no strangers to between economic and social that approach. development. That indicates that even though BY KARMA PEM WANGDI we may not have fully attained it ourselves or feel so positively TRAVEL
Amazing Thailand, Indeed!
A grade 12 student at Woodstock School in Mussoorie, India, talks about her experiences at the elephant rehabilitation center in Chiang Mai.
love Thailand. I love every- Mae Taeng district in Chiang Mai, it comes to speaking up for these thing about it; the sights and which is run by Sangduen Chailert voiceless creatures. Despite her ap- smells, food, flowers and the or Lek, as she is known. Lek means pearances, Lek is incredibly strong people, who are so friendly small, and she is small. Shorter mAE tAENG and inspiring and has dedicated and polite. I have lost track of than me - 5 feet 5 inches at 17 – DISTRICT her entire life to the much-needed Ithe numbers of times i have been Lek, who is probably in her mid The writer takes a salvation of Thailand’s elephants. there, but last February i made an- to late 40’s, is close to 5 feet. She break from bath- She has won several awards and other trip, one that will forever be has a soft face and long hair and ing the elephant. there is even a book about her, etched in my memory. It was one speaks relatively good English. Her “The Elephant Lady of Thailand.” of the best experiences I have ever husband, Darrick Thomson, who is The story of the Elephant Na- had because it changed me. Canadian, was once a sea-shepherd ture Park (ENP) began after 1989 I went to volunteer at an el- and a fire fighter. Together they when the Thai government im- ephant rehabilitation center in the are a force to reckon with when posed a ban on logging after real-
The Raven NOV-DEC, 2012 31 TRAVEL
Some elephants continued to be employed in the illegal logging business and others were used in circuses, forced to beg on Bangkok’s busy tourist ridden streets, or be rides for ignorant tourists.
izing that their vast and rich forests tion of these majestic beasts, both were being destroyed. It was also physically and psychologically, with found that while there were about no consequences for its abuser. 100,000 elephants in the wild be- Their plight caught the atten- fore, that number was now less tion and compassion of Lek who than 3000. Meanwhile, the ban set out on a mission to provide a left elephants that had been bru- sanctuary where they would be tally tortured and trained to cater safe and rehabilitated. In 1996 she to the logging industry, jobless. founded the Elephant Nature Park. They were let loose or sold to enter- She started with two elephants tainers. Those who were let loose she bought, rescuing them from either died because they could no entertainers. Soon a US conser- longer forage in the wild while vationist, Bert Von Roemer, of the others wreaked havoc on crops Serengeti Foundation heard about and plantations creating tensions her campaign and donated money, between the animals and farmers. which allowed her to buy the 50 Some elephants continued to acres where the Elephant Nature our earlier trip to the famous Ti- be employed in the illegal logging Park now resides. Today, it has 150 ger Temple in Kanchanaburi near business and others were used in acres and is a blissful sanctuary for the Burmese border turned out to circuses, forced to beg on Bang- 35 elephants. be a disappointment. A National kok’s busy tourist ridden streets, I first discovered the park from Geographic program said that the or be rides for ignorant tourists. a brief program on CNN about Lek. Tigers were rescued by monks Unfortunately laws in Thailand do My mother and I thought it would and kept at the temple. However, not allow for the protection of do- be an enriching experience to vol- reports have emerged that the ti- mesticated elephants, so the only unteer there before I returned to gers are actually drugged to remain rights they have are equal to that of school in February – a good time to calm and tame near hundreds livestock. The lack of proper rights go when it is much cooler. We went of visitors who come to pose for results in the abuse and exploita- wondering what to expect, because pictures. Whether or not these ti-
32 The Raven NOV-DEC, 2012 gers have actually been rescued or T-shirt each that said “Volunteer”, ed into groups and over the week poached is a controversial issue. and water bottles with a cover that Rehabilitated took turns to do sets of chores such We arrived in the morning in had an embroidered gold elephant elephants as preparing food for the elephants, The elephant (on Chiang Mai, the second largest on it. The others on the bus were shoveling poop and cleaning sta- the left) still limps city in Thailand, so we had a day young teachers, students, travelers, from a broken bles, collecting firewood, and cut- visiting ancient Watts, a trip to a and retirees from Europe, US and leg. ting grass and corn. Intermittently local museum, and a walk through Australia who were either working we had time to relax with lectures the night market. The next day the in Asia or had come all the way just and talks on the situation of Thai Park bus picked us up from the to volunteer. We drove about 60 elephants, learning Thai, going hotel and took us to their office kms outside of Chiang Mai to the tubing in the river, and best of all in town where we made the rest northern jungles. bathing the elephants. Although of our payment. We were given a Upon our arrival we were divid- the work was extremely exhausting
The Raven NOV-DEC, 2012 33 travel
THE volunteers
and demanding, it was immensely at the park for years, they were still rewarding. An elephant takes five skittish and nervous. times the effort and care it takes There were two elephants that to raise a cow. For example, the stood out to me the most, partly average elephant eats about 300 because their injuries were so obvi- As the newborn kgs a day. ous, and partly because that even The great respect and admira- after all the misery humans had tumbled downhill tion I have for these beautiful, ani- caused them, they were still will- to its death, the mals grew exponentially. During ing to forgive and love again. It is bathing and feeding time we were true,“an elephant always forgives, mother was unable allowed to be up close to them. but never forgets.” One of the el- This allowed us to connect at a ephants had been working for an to move because more personal level. Most of the illegal logging company when Lek she was chained. elephants had suffered abuse and found her. She had been forced torture so although they had been to carry huge logs up mountains,
34 The Raven NOV-DEC, 2012 a normal day at the park Chores include preparing food for the el- ephants, shoveling poop and cleaning stables, collecting firewood, and cutting grass and corn. all while she was pregnant. One them with sticks. She was blind- were integrated into the ENP herd. day, while she was working, she ed. The other elephant had been Darrick and Lek, one a vegetari- went into labor, but was forced to used as a breeding vessel. She was an and the other a vegan, are trying keep working. She was at the top chained while bulls were forced to get the Thai government to pass of the hill when she gave birth. upon her to produce calves. The laws for the humane treatment of The newborn tumbled downhill elephant had resisted and fought tamed elephants in Thailand. Years to its death, but she was unable back during one of the breeding ago the famous PETA (People for to move because she was chained. sessions and was severely injured the Ethical Treatment of Animals) You would think that her mahout by the much larger bull. Her en- got hold of a video by Lek which would give her a break after the tire lower body was crushed. When graphically showed the process of loss of her calf, but she was put Lek found her she had an awkward “crushing” – breaking an elephants to work almost immediately. She gait. One leg still dangles limply spirit by extreme torture so that it was so depressed that she refused above the ground. Lek eventually succumbs to human orders. PETA to work. Her mahout slingshot hassled the mahouts into selling launched a campaign for tourists stones at her eyes and gouged her the decrepit elephants and they to boycott Thailand. This outraged
The Raven NOV-DEC, 2012 35 travel
travel GENTLE CREATURES details Elephants may appear dangerous and intimidating but they have the capacity to be loving and gentle. By Flight From Paro Druk Air has direct the Tourism Industry and Lek was one of the most incredible times flights to Bangkok the park and its residents. The fees, reviled and physically threatened. of my life, and I was glad to have which are 12,000 baht per person Today she is still fighting these had my mother there with me. for an entire week, include hous- Train threats because ivory poaching The work taught me that although From Bangkok till ing and food. The housing is basic, Chiang Mai by train in Asia and smuggling of wild el- elephants appear dangerous and eight hours but homely, and if you’re lucky you ephants from Burma to Thailand intimidating, they also have the may even get a room with a view of for entertainment is strong as ever. capacity to be loving and gentle the elephants enclosures.
As an ignorant traveler who didn’t creatures. They are sensitive ani- Stay If you’re interested in volunteer- know anything of this I was com- mals that require constant care and Elephant ing at the Elephant Nature Park, or- Nature Park plicit in their abuse when I took compassion, and if you are lucky Tel: 053 818754, wish to satiate your curiosity about 818932 Fax: elephant rides or watched them enough they will be more than will- +66(0)53904033 it, you can visit the website. You http://www. perform tricks. After ENP it seems ing to reciprocate. Lek has created elephantna- will find the option to volunteer for like an absolute sin to do any of a wonderful situation that allows turepark.org a week or two weeks or go as a day this. I am still puzzled by the way her park to operate without having visitor. The website, is not exactly the Thais revere the elephant as a to constantly search for funds. In- user-friendly, so you may have to Climate god and then tolerate ruthless ex- stead of allowing tourists to igno- Best time to out some effort into finding the ploitation of the very animal that is rantly ride on the elephants she in- Travel - March & right information. April, October & their source of pride. vites volunteers to pay to help with November – since the temperature My experience at ENP has been the daily tasks required to maintain is ideal – and not The writer, MAPEM R. LANIGAN, maintains too hot. a blog at mapemrose.blogspot.com.
36 The Raven NOV-DEC, 2012 Fiction A Mystery Karma Singye Dorji
The story, rehashed in countless retellings by an endless stream of speculators before him, always threw up the same open- ended questions. It was like that old saying where everyone has an opinion but no one knows the facts.
The Raven NOV-DEC, 2012 37 Fiction
HE YOUNG MAN they called Diamond of Enlightened Activity was scribbling confused notes at a bar called The Angry Monk. Working and reworking the phrases in his head he felt neither diamond-like nor If he died in enlightened. The story, rehashed in countless retellings by an endless stream of speculators before him, always threw up the same open-ended the crash like Tquestions. It was like that old saying where everyone has an opinion but no one knows the facts. The details of the story made no sense now that he had decided to chew on many people it. He had started out convinced that he could dig far enough into the story to come up think, then why with something new to say but now he was beginning to feel like he was just another drudge in a long line of drudges who had failed to work out the murky details of the didn’t they find mystery.
any bodies? It was, he thought despondently, like clearing cobwebs in a long disused room only to find a maze of other rooms filled with more cobwebs and secrets.
Diamond shook his head to clear his thoughts and reconsidered the key details of the Colonel’s disappearance. Four members of the elite royal guards had gone missing more than two decades ago. One of them, a greatly admired if somewhat feared figure, appeared to have been under some sort of military escort. No one seemed to know exactly why one of the most trusted and decorated officers in the royal guards had been placed under arrest. There were, of course, all sorts of conspiracy theories floating around, especially in dimly lit bars where the sanity of their proponents seemed to evaporate with the alcohol fumes. As far as Diamond was concerned, none of them held up in the light of day.
There were rumors, for instance, that the Colonel was on his way to the capital to be tried for treason when he died. Others said it was all a ruse and that the Colonel was “missing in action” because he was secretly fighting a one-man war against an anonymous group with powerful connections who were plotting to overthrow the Royal House of Cherry Blossom Spring. That there was, in fact, to this day, a secret mole within the royal family who was even now laying the most elaborate of plans for a coup. The people who spread these rumors did not seem to consider the fact that the country was currently enjoying an era of unprecedented peace and harmony. That the royal family, in fact, enjoyed such complete and unquestioning loyalty and devotion across the country that the merest hint of a plot against the Royal House of Cherry Blossom Spring would have incurred the collective wrath of the army, the parliament, the people in the cities, and the cultivators in the districts from the heart of the country to the furthest border regions.
Time to consider the facts, Diamond thought. The wreckage of the car the Colonel had been traveling in was found months after the army first launched the most massive air and ground search the country had ever seen. The mangled military transport vehicle was eventually found at the bottom of the deepest gorge that sheered away from the highway, deep within the mountainous folds of the interior region, from where the Colonel was being brought to the capital. Local inhabitants who lived in the tiny terraced villages nearest the cliff the car had fallen off from called it the Wall of Butterflies, for the autumnal congregation of vibrant butterflies that clung to the sheer walls of the cliff, making it appear as if the dark and brooding wall was covered with a rippling blanket of multi-hued wildflowers. Nothing that would suggest either the Colonel’s death or sur- vival had materialized from the subsequent investigations at the Wall of Butterflies.
The door of the bar swung open and a blast of icy winter air cut through Diamond’s rev- eries. Even without turning around he knew it was his laconic friend Eight Lucky Signs,
38 The Raven NOV-DEC, 2012 who shared a cubicle with him at the Mountain Mirror, the premier newsweekly in the country. Lucky had probably turned in his story on time, as usual, Diamond thought ruefully. No doubt he would have lead his story with a dramatic hyperbole and finished it with a flourish at the end. Lucky had a habit of giving every piece he wrote, however insignificant, a grandiose scope by saying things like: “…and this may, indeed, be the challenge of our times” or “…the dilemmas facing this small farming “ Your Relationship Bank ” community may, indeed, be the questions we all need to ask ourselves as a country.” He had an irritating way of using the word “indeed” that was, indeed, irritating.
If Lucky’s annoying thumps on his back moments later was karmic punishment B N B for his uncharitable thoughts, the strong whiff of drink and stinky-nut chew that emanated from Lucky’s breath in waves was the icing on Diamond’s cake of P I G G Y B A N K discontentment.
Well,” Lucky said, leaning in nauseatingly to glance over at Diamond’s scribbled A C C O U N T “notes. “I see you’re working on a dead-end story again. When are you going to turn that one in? Next year?” It had to be admitted, Diamond thought; Lucky had a natural talent for reading the worst handwriting in the world upside down. And for stealing leads that he had labored on for days. Still, he made for an interesting sounding board and, sometimes, bouncing ideas off the overweening lout had resulted in the most clarifying insights.
I can’t understand it,” Diamond said, shaking his head again. “If he died in the “crash like many people think, then why didn’t they find any bodies? After all, it wasn’t like he was the only one. There were four of them for god’s sake! Why hasn’t a single evidence of their final fate, a single bone, even, turned up after all these years?”
Maybe the bodies were flung out of the car as it plunged over the cliff,” Lucky said “with a somnolent shrug, “Who knows? Anyway, all this talk of death and conspiracy “My First Bank” makes me thirsty, I need a drink.” Lucky motioned and the dour girl behind the bar came around the counter and poured a shot of Mountain Mist, from a decanter, We at BNB believe that a carefully, as if measuring liquid gold. “And,” said Lucky downing the drink with a saving habit is best started quick gulp and wincing at the after-burn, “…the bodies may have been thrown out when young. far enough from the car that they got caught in the rapids and washed away all the Come Visit us. Open an way south to the delta or the Bay of Tears. Or, maybe the bodies are still on the river, Account Today. somewhere still within our boundaries, but pinned under a rock where the whitewater hides everything and lets the natural process of decomposition do its work? Either way, no way to know. If I were you I’d find something else to write about before the “ Be Smart. Start Early” Chief chews you out.” ‘Chief’ was their fast-talking irascible editor. The reminder that he had been avoiding his editor, and the fact that he would get the tongue lashing of his life when he finally showed up with a story that might take months simply to begin, depressed him. “Damn!” Diamond said suddenly, slapping his fist down NU. NU. on the bar violently. “I just refuse to accept it. Come on, do you seriously think it’s pos- sible for someone like the Colonel to disappear so completely? This is a man who once survived a firing squad. A man everyone knew to be the best of all the elite guards, a man who was known as the ‘Shadow of the King’. A man who could go for days with- out sleep when on the job, and who once snapped a full length firearm in two during a routine gun salute. Come on, this man was a legend. We have to find out what happened For further enquiries: to him! Or, if he’s alive, why he’s being forced to hide!” Check www.bnb.bt Lucky shook his head in a drunken stupor, raised his glass for another drink without or Call 144 looking up, burped loudly, and tried feebly to wipe the drool from his lips.
The Raven NOV-DEC, 2012 39 Nima Tshering has a Masters degree in Public Administration/International Development from the John F. Kennedy School of Government, Harvard University. He also has a PhD in economics, public policy, public leadership, and democratic governance. Is Bhutan suffering symptoms of the Dutch disease?
hutan may have a small Keeping the complex economics girls working in drayangs and other economy, but it is resource-rich behind Dutch disease simple, there service sectors. If the jobs are avail- and its hydropower potentials are three basic concepts. First is the able obviously they would prefer a have certainly boosted it lately. “spending effect,” second the “re- less labor intensive job than toiling in We also receive very generous source movement effect,” and third the remote villages of their home- Bforeign aid from our donor friends, the “monetary effect.” towns. As a result of the increased especially from our closest ally in all “Spending effect” occurs as a result demand for non-traded goods (hotel respects, India. But we must understand of the extra revenue brought in employees, salons, massage parlors that these large increases in our national by our export of hydropower and and other services demanded within income from too much capital in-flows generous aid from donors. Since the country) the price of these goods can have dire consequences on our the people and the government will increase. Recollect how our house economy. We might eventually suffer now have more money to spend, we rents have been increasing so fast. from what some economists refer to as will increase our demand for labor However, prices in the traded goods the Dutch Disease, if we do not put the in the non-tradable sector such as sector (potato and apple exports etc.) proper policy interventions in place and construction, housing, tourism, and are set internationally, so that doesn’t on time. other services, shifting labor away change. And think of all the imported from the lagging sector such as ag- construction materials. We find it is What is the Dutch disease? riculture and cottage industries.Not cheaper to import material from out- It is a concept that explains an economic denying that this has had its benefits side rather than buy it at home where situation of The Netherlands where the - in some cases more pros than it is not only scarce but also costly. discovery of large natural gas fields in 1959 cons – because it has led to overall This is an increase of the so-called caused the decline and near collapse of its growth, an increase in education lev- “real exchange rate.” Our Ngultrum manufacturing sector. The term, however, els, and improved the standards of becomes stronger or appreciates in was coined in 1977 by The Economist living of the people. But the negative real value. Don’t be confused with magazine to describe that situation and is implications can be seen and felt in nominal exchange rates where our widely used to describe any negative im- the agricultural and social sectors. currency is pegged one-on-one with pact on an economy through sharp inflows Bhutan has one of the highest rates the Indian Rupee. In reality, as more of foreign currency through discovery of of rural to urban migration (accord- hydropower and foreign aid money large-scale natural resources. In the case ing to UNDP) and rising income comes in, our Ngultrum appreciates. of Bhutan this would be hydropower and levels and demand for labor in the The “Resource movement effect” foreign aid. According to the Financial service sectors has attracted other- happens as the booming hydropower Times lexicon, “The currency inflows lead wise farming people into the towns. sector draws labor and resources away to currency appreciation making the coun- This has certainly had a huge impact from the lagging agriculture sector or try’s other products less competitive on the on the agricultural sector. Think of our very small manufacturing sector. export market. It also leads to higher levels all the high school dropouts look- This is already happening in Bhu- of cheap imports and can lead to de-indus- ing for jobs as drivers, clerks, or tan. Think of how all the trucks that trialization”. anything they can find, and young used to carry potatoes and cabbages
40 The Raven NOV-DEC, 2012 from farmers to the markets are now deployed at construction sites of new hydropower projects because they get paid higher at the hydropower construction sites than from transporting erratic farm produce. What this does is further deteriorate the profitability of the tradable agriculture sector. Again, this makes the ngultrum stronger. Think of a farmer getting the same amount of rupee from the sale of potatoes but who now has to pay a Bhutanese truck driver more in ngultrum because of the hydropower boom. And the “Monetary effect” is a bit harder to explain in layman’s terms, but it simply means that because of too much new money (think of generous foreign aid, hydropower sale money, or even the borrowed rupees), infla- tion in Bhutan is rising. Driven by power exports and large aid inflows, money supply in Bhutan has grown rapidly at an average rate of 30% per year since 1997. High inflation means the real value of the ngultrum becomes stronger even when it is nominally pegged to the Indian Rupee. Growth diagnostics data analysis on Bhutan shows that macroeconomic instability would most likely stem from public spending that is increasing in size and deteriorating in quality. The public sector is becoming bloated, crowding out private sector activity. So the first policy intervention is to have fiscal discipline and man- age spending wisely. The government has recently initiated this move, which is good. There will also be continued upward pressure on the relative price of non-tradable goods as domestic credit becomes more widely available, risking a credit bubble (that is, an over-extension of credit to ever more risky borrowers). Therefore, the second policy intervention should be in monitoring credit expansion. The Royal Monetary Authority has started on this move, which is also good. A third policy intervention is to not bring all the revenue into the country all at once, but instead save or invest some of this revenue abroad in special funds and bring them in slowly when needed. This is called steriliza- tion and it will reduce the spending effect. This, however, can be politically difficult as there is often pressure to spend the money im- mediately ignoring broader macroeconomic implica- tions. The other option is Don’t be confused with that the government focus nominal exchange rates on investing this money in where our currency productive areas/uses with is pegged one-on-one an eye on long term costs. with the Indian Rupee. The other thing it can do is that as the money comes In reality, as more in it goes into a “rainy day” hydropower and foreign fund – perhaps taking 10 aid money comes in, our percent of energy exports Ngultrum appreciates. and putting it into DHI to make sure that it doesn’t spend everything that comes in. DHI could then invest this for the long-term development of the private sector etc. In short, we can reduce the threat of something like the Dutch Disease by slowing the appreciation of the real exchange rate of ngultrum and by boosting the competitiveness of the non-hydro sector. Some, however, argue that Bhutan is not The Netherlands and that while the flow of resources that took away from the manufacturing was bad for Holland – because it took away long term competitiveness, crippled the manufacturing sector and moved it towards less productive parts of the economy – this is not the case in Bhu- tan. In Bhutan, it can be argued that the flow is away from the agricultural sector to services. If these services are teachers, health-workers, salons, hotels and other private enterprises then it is said to help steer resources to optimal use for longer-term development in Bhutan and this can be a good thing. Sure the cost of living will go up, they say, but so too will the quality of life. So, while we may have elements of the Dutch Disease, will there be a long-term adjustment to the new economy of Bhutan. The old Bhutan was an agricultural based economy; the new one is now driven by hydropower and services, including tourism. But this view would hold true only if tourism continues to grow, aid continues to flow in and the glaciers don’t dry up on us. But if Climate Change is happening then our government’s role will be to manage these adjust- ments and make necessary changes because the economic implications will be rough. In the end we need to avoid extreme developments and achieve a more balanced approach to how we manage the repercussions that hydropower development and foreign aid can or has brought to our economy.
The Raven NOV-DEC, 2012 41 ARTICLE
There is a much better and compassionate way of educating children other than corporal punishment, says Sangay Phuntsho.
hen I was in primary school at Ura in Bumthang in the early W90’s, hearing the word Lopen simply sent my heart racing. I conjectured images of getting into trouble, or having done something wrong and then, thoughts of the unbearable stick It Takes A would come to mind. As a child the word Lopen was firmly associated with the idea of corporal punishment. I Village and don’t think that this is anything new. For many who belong to my generation it is common knowledge that this was the Not a ‘Syringe’ modus operandi of teaching - to beat and punish children with the notion that they were “educating” and “disciplining”. to Raise a It was so common and accepted that nobody ever questioned it; nobody knew whether it was effective or not. Nobody ever Child asked, did the children really learn? Hence nobody saw it as being wrong either. Where I went to school, the beatings and Photo Courtesy: Google
42 The Raven NOV-DEC, 2012 punishments were so frequent There have been incidents when that my imagination involuntarily a child succumbed to corporal tied a teacher with punishment punishment. A friend told me and hence instilled nothing but that in the late 50’s when her fear in me. In retrospect that father went to school in Wang- was truly unfortunate, for I am diphodrang, a boy was beaten a teacher now, and I wouldn’t and kicked so badly in his chest consider it very flattering if my that he died shortly after. The One teacher had students had that image of me. case was never reported to the punishment techniques police, and the teacher never I cannot deny that some taught lost his job. That was then, at that were better than us well, and meant well. But a time when farmers not only his ability to teach. I guess they didn’t know any valued free education, but felt so better. Whatever the case, I privileged and fortunate that their remain grateful for the educa- children could get a seat in one tion I received. However, some of of the few schools that existed in the teachers were so mean that the country. In a culture where To me, teaching those days they seemed better at punish- teachers are revered as gurus, it seldom went beyond chalk and ing than teaching. I remember is sad that such abuse not only a blackboard, and the teacher’s one of them had punishment existed, but was tolerated and movement in the classroom techniques that were better than condoned. Today, after years of rarely went beyond the front row his ability to teach. He even had research and studies conducted - except maybe when he wanted different equipments of torture, a by child psychologists, social to smack someone who sat at the whipping cane that folded in two, behavioural analysts and learning back. and a piece of electric wire. specialists, the world is learning a different way. The discussion When I was in the fifth standard, I will never forget the incident of how children should be taught I was accused of breaking into a when some of my friends and and what kind of environment near-by food store. I had a thou- I were forced to strip and dip is best for learning, has taken a sand and one reasons to prove ourselves in ice-cold water one different direction. It has taught otherwise, and I was so eager to early frosty winter morning. us that there is a much better and proclaim my innocence that I Bumthang winters are brutal compassionate way of educating couldn’t stop from talking. But and we were, well, just children. children, and even “disciplin- as soon as I started to speak the And our crime? Coming late to ing” them. Mine was a childhood teacher slapped me hard across morning study. We could have fraught with learning by the my face. That shut me up, but he died from hypothermia. Luck- stick. Exams and class-tests were continued to slap me repeatedly. ily we didn’t, but some suffered constantly followed by the cane. After a dozen or so slaps, unable from cold and serious bouts of Some teachers beat us for every to bear the humiliation and his coughing, I suffered from serious single error that we made in our repeated accusations that I had stomach cramps the remaining papers. But more often than not, done it, I gave in and said I did of the day. It was a horrible and these beatings were because of it. It was one of the most hurtful painful experience that I never so called “disciplinary” issues. and humiliating experiences I wish upon any children. In those Teachers beat students simply have experienced. It impacted my days our parents entrusted us to based on what was desirable or sense of self, my view of educa- the teachers and the school, and undesirable behaviour in their tion and the world around me. I it was up to them to do what they eyes. Sometimes the scoldings hated school and I hated teachers. could, with us. Parents didn’t and beatings started right from Not only was it difficult to accept complain. the morning assembly, upsetting a crime that I hadn’t committed, our mood the whole day. Other’s haven’t been so lucky. but it was even more painful to
The Raven NOV-DEC, 2012 43 ARTICLE
A senior teacher at Tsirangtoe Lower Secondary School said that he felt handicapped with the ban of corporal punishment.
see that I had hurt my parents, we weren’t even encouraged to ety during that time considered who were made to feel embar- read or even go there. After all, teaching one of the best profes- rassed for what I had not done. they didn’t expect us to write any- sions and teachers were given A part of me understands that thing new in our test answers. If great respect by all and sundry. teachers sometimes deployed we regurgitated what they taught such punishments with good us, that was enough - complete Whenever we were asked what intent, after all they have to rote learning. The only upside to we wanted to be in the future, maintain the order of the school. rote learning from my childhood more than half of us ironically, However, I think if they stand in was that I managed to by-heart raised our hands and said our the shoes of the child I am sure all the Buddhist prayers like the dream was to be a teacher. And they will realize that corporal Doelma and Barchoedlamsel. this was not because we merely punishment injures a child for wanted to please our teacher, but the rest of his life and eclipses For society, however, the reputa- because we envied the power his opportunities to blossom tion of the school remained high. they wielded, and the respect they positively. Every year, the students who ap- got from society. Even at home, peared for the board examination my friends and I would play the In my view, the Teaching-learning would bring 100% pass marks. teacher-student game. Everyone process in those days was irritat- Besides, the students also exhib- loved being the teacher and pun- ingly dull and full of lectures ited exemplary discipline and ishing the others, clearly showing by people who never seemed to behaviour when there were visit- that we were learning how to love follow any of the rules in life. ing dignitaries. In such fashion, power and authority and the abil- We never got the opportunity to teachers in the olden days were ity to have others obey us. They contribute in our own learning victorious in upholding what say children being told about process. We were never taught to they thought was the nobility of good and bad behavior rarely has question; instead we were told to the teaching profession, without any impact because they learn listen only. We were never taught realizing that not only was it more by looking and listening, to enquire and be curious, for immoral, but that the children and emulating the behavior of the that was doubting the teacher. We had really learned nothing. They adults. It was only when I was at were never taught to speak up, didn’t prepare the children for Paro College of Education that I because that was being disre- the world, they prepared us to realized the journey the teach- spectful, bold, and disruptive. fear everything. Unfortunately, ing profession has made. Today, Teachers kept on lecturing until because of a lack of of what a teachers have learned better and the bell rang. We had a small one meaningful education was, soci- work harder, but the irony is room library with few books, but
44 The Raven NOV-DEC, 2012 that society no longer seems to is also against the teacher’s code feel about corporal punishment in see that. Currently the morale of conduct. While at the training our schools. While, most of them amongst teachers is pretty low. college we took a basic counseling are against it there are still some I came across many trainees program to teach us an alternative who genuinely support it, and expressing dissatisfaction with way of working with children. The I think it is because they do not the profession. It also seems to module holds significant value in know any better. A senior teacher be the last thing that most people teaching us the substitution for cor- at Tsirangtoe Lower Secondary want to be now. Once I hap- poral punishment. But, in my opin- School said that he felt handi- pened to visit a village in Paro ion, one module in the six months capped with the ban of corporal while gathering information for semester seems to be inadequate. punishment. With a mere basic an assignment. In a soiled cow We hardly got the chance to exercise counseling course, he said, teach- shed I saw a few children playing or put to effect how this works. ers are helpless in handling the a teacher-student game. A girl adverse behavior of some stub- who was enacting a teacher was I am back in a primary school again. born students. He claimed that holding a big stick, and pre- I was assigned as a PP (Pre-primary) he has witnessed the swift change tended to beat her students when teacher to Chhuboelsa Extended in students’ behavior after the they didn’t listen to her. A friend Class Room (ECR) under Tsirangtoe ban, implying that it was getting told me that at a private primary Lower Secondary School in Bhuan, worse. The teacher-in charge at school in Thimphu which her after I completed my training Chhuboelsa ECR said that he nephews attend, one teacher put course. On my first day, I entered has advised and spoken to many the pencil in between the child’s the classroom with great excitement youth but he was still unable to tender fingers and pinched them looking at faces that reminded me identify their problem, leave alone together causing immense pain. of myself decades ago and started a finding the solution. He said they That, for not doing homework. conversation with the children seat- always came up with some excuse ed before me. I asked them many prompting the “counseling session In some ways teaching children questions and they eagerly answered to become an advising session.” without beatings and punish- in a chorus. Once the ice had been He said his advise was in vain ment is an alien approach to our broken and they seemed comfort- when students took it lightly. He, society and many who want to able enough, I told them I wanted therefore, felt that the only way be “teachers” are learning/hear- to appoint a class captain and asked these children would listen was ing of it only now. For those who if anyone was interested. Suddenly, through strict disciplinary action don’t care about children, yet everyone in the class raised their like corporal punishment. Another want to be a teacher, I think their hands and started yelling enthusi- teacher believed that, the discipline want is for the power and author- astically. I asked if they knew the is an act of love where sometimes ity the profession commands and responsibility of the class captain. I we are required “to be unkind, to not because they want to be an was frightened and shocked when be kind”. He quotes an excerpt “educator.” everyone unanimously said, “to from You can win by Shiv Khera: beat la”. I had come a long way, but “We are all familiar with that big During our training, the mod- it seemed like the message hadn’t animal, the giraffe. A mama giraffe ules like Child Psychology really reached some parts of Bhutan. I gives birth to a baby giraffe stand- helped us understand the effect realized I had a lot of work to do. ing. All of a sudden the baby falls of corporal punishment on learn- The children, it seems, were learn- on a hard surface, and sits on the ers, both physically and mentally. ing well from corporal punishment. ground. The first thing the mama We also learnt that Bhutan was You get a little authority, even as a does is to get behind the baby and one of the first countries to ratify captain, and you have the power to give him a hard kick. The baby gets the Convention on the Rights of “beat.” up, but the legs are weak and wob- the Child (CRC) without any res- bly and the baby falls down. Mama ervation in 1990. Today, anyone Moved by such experiences, I’ve goes behind again and gives him wanting to be a teacher should talked with many of my colleagues, one more kick. The baby gets up, know that Corporal punishment parents and students on how they but sits down again. Mama keeps
The Raven NOV-DEC, 2012 45 ARTICLE
While there were about 400 children in less than a dozen schools spread across the country in the early 60s, there are now more than 200,000 children in 536 schools.
kicking till the baby gets on its one point I even referred to it as are, I think, confusing the symptom with the cause. feet and starts moving. Why? Be- the “golden slap” because it had The reason why we have youth problems and are cause mama knows that the only forced me to stay in school and witnessing a growing lack of respect for authority, chance of survival for the baby is indeed changed the course of my is not because of banning corporal punishment, but to get on its feet - otherwise it will life. But I shouldn’t let that one because maybe such punishment or aggravation ex- be eaten by predators.” incident sway the argument that ists in their homes. What teachers also don’t realize corporal punishment, whether is that their duty is not to discipline the children. But are we Giraffes? well intended or not, is right. That is the duty of the parents, and it is something that a child should learn at home, taught by the When I heard these arguments The golden slap is really a tap on parents. There needs to be a partnership between I doubted myself and wondered the head with the good intent of parents and the school to help the child develop the whether corporal punishment making someone snap out of do- right manners and discipline. If the child is undis- could, in some instances, indeed ing something stupid, naughty or ciplined then the teacher should simply push the be helpful? I recall an incident, silly. Corporal punishment on the responsibility onto the parents. A teacher’s duty is when after hating school I had other hand humiliates, embar- to teach and educate and help steer the child in the begun bunking classes and tried rasses and hurts the child both right direction. But he/she must do the best he can to force my parents to let me physically and mentally. It is a in the most compassionate manner. If this doesn’t leave school. It was only with punitive form of punishment that work, parents have to be called in to help dissolve a painful slap that I received has many harmful repercussions the situation of the misbehaving child. And yet still, from my class teacher that made to the overall development of the if bad behavior continues despite warnings it should me stay back and continue my child’s mental and emotional result in strict disciplinary actions like detentions, schooling. Today, I look back and development. Unlike the edu- suspensions and ultimately expulsion. There is no wonder - would I have remained cated parents in towns, most of need for teachers to resort to taking matters into illiterate if he hadn’t hit me? the parents at Tsirangtoe that I’ve their own hands and mishandling a child by physi- Then I ask myself the question, talked to feel that, a little corporal cally abusing them. but why did I want to run away punishment should be allowed from classes in the first place in our schools. They believe that But sometimes, I have heard people talking as if all and what made me want to leave strict discipline in schools will teachers are in favour of corporal punishment as if school in the first place? Was eventually shape a child better. it is a pastime for us. Recently, a member in WAB it because I felt so misunder- Some even overtly blame the ban (Writers Association of Bhutan) explicitly men- stood by my teachers and tired for the increasing youth related tioned in his post that “teachers love to beat their of the beatings and the way I problems. I think this is because students.” It is really painful to digest such remarks was treated? If they hadn’t made they fail to understand that and generalizations. Indeed, we teachers too hate learning such a miserable experi- causes of our youth problems are having to scold our students for nothing. Our only ence I think I would have enjoyed more complex than that. They wish is to see our students enjoying school and school and not skipped classes. At
46 The Raven NOV-DEC, 2012 learning; to see them happy and teach mainly but it is the parents/ demotivate the teaching community. What must be for us to enjoy what we do. There family’s role to provide the values remembered is that there are negligent people on is nothing more annoying than to and discipline. For too long the both sides - the parents and in the teaching com- have misbehaving and trouble- Bhutanese attitude and society munity. In August this year, an expatriate teacher at some children who disrupt the has put the onus on the teacher’s Sipsoo was arrested for violating the teacher’s code smooth running of a class or alone. Education, is not limited of conduct. Lured by showing some test questions, school. There is also nothing to the school. The examples of he harassed two class VIII girls by showing a porn more saddening for us to see what kind of person you want movie and physically and sexually abusing them. these children’s lives ruined with your child to become, begins in Radhi JHSS principal was charged this June for act- neglect, punishment and lack the family. Many of the parents ing unfriendly to the whole community including of support from the faculty and today are educated, how many teachers and students. He manhandled the school their parents. of them really take an interest caretaker two months after his arrival. He is also in helping with home-work and alleged to have held another teacher by the collar Above all, the ban seems to have communicating with the teach- and accused for verbally assaulting and humiliating affected the morale of teachers ers? school staff in the meetings. Worse, after a minis- who have known no other way to If parents cannot handle the few ter’s visit to the school on September 30, 2010, the run a classroom or school than children they have, then they same man forced his teaching staff to drink two with corporal punishment. They shouldn’t expect a teacher who cases of beer, even though they didn’t want to. And feel that this instead empow- has 35 to 40 children in a class to now we have a case where a teacher allegedly in- ers some parents who have first perform wonders. People don’t jected students with a used syringe as punishment. of all never taken an active and seem to realize that teaching is positive role in their children’s not a simple 9 to 5 job. A Teacher What we as teachers must keep in mind is that such lives, leave alone education and is involved in the lives of 35/40 ill-thought, reckless, and ignorant behaviour of a discipline. Some teachers feel children everyday. There are les- few has serious implications on the entire teaching that banning corporal punish- sons to prep for and assignments community. The status and nobility of the teach- ment ties the teachers hands who to correct, and ensure the safety ing profession can be better promoted only by our are left to deal with troublesome and wellbeing of these children teachers who love and care for the children, their children while parents blame, sue day in and day out till the end staff and their profession. The hard work of hun- or even beat teachers for the the of the school year. Parents who dreds of teachers can be completely overshadowed bad behavior of these children. It seem to leave all the responsibil- by the blunder of a single teacher. Our profession demoralizes hundreds of teach- ity to the teachers should work therefore requires us to be extra cautious of what ers across the country. What our with us and support us. With no we do, both inside and outside the school campus. education system, society and parent involvement and support We are talking about the education of not one child, the parents of troubled children some of them come in with the but of the entire nation, and for the next generation. fail to realize is that this is a joint smallest complaints and harass Every stakeholder should do their share. Parents effort and without it, there are the teachers. should help out in any way they can to support bound to be lapses in how our teachers and their children’s school, and the Minis- children are educated and disci- For instance, this year alone, try of Education has to assist teachers and princi- plined. We are not talking about many parents charged our pals with putting in place of corporal punishment, teachers who like beating for the teachers. A non-national school effective disciplinary measures in place that can sake of beating - like in my child- teacher of Pelkhil High School have far-reaching consequences for those - parents/ hood. We are talking about teach- in Thimphu was beaten-up by a children/ and teachers - who do not comply. As the ers who are trying to do their jobs parent of a student in April this saying goes, “It takes a village to raise a child,” and as best they can with the limited year. The reason, we heard was our people and society have to realize that if parents exposure they themselves have the teacher smacked the child do not step up to take more responsibility for their and the limited resources avail- twice on the back during class. children, schools alone cannot be blamed for an able to them. It is not the work of The father of the student, it is education system which many see as failing. the teachers/educators alone to said, pulled the teacher out of discipline a child. Our role is to the classroom, and beat him up. Such disrespectful incidents can
The Raven NOV-DEC, 2012 47 A critical look at the Amoch- feATURE hu Reservoir Hydroelectric Project and what its opera- tion will entail) this makes it (sound too much like a report.) THE AMOCHHU pROJECT REVIsITEd
A hydropower project draws attention to everything it touches. And, in the process, it sometimes draws attention to itself.
certainly very little value to a de- disappear. According to official It is time we contemplate this A bird’s eye view velopment project like the Amo- estimates from an agriculture question before it is too late: of amochhu. How can we build a Dam without chhu Hydroelectric Project that is office in Chukha, about 276 compromising the existence of an now at their doorstep, threatening households will be displaced ancient 400-year old heritage? their existence. and this number could increase “It feels like I am being driven Lingden lies in the foothills to about 500. Of these, 64 Doya out of my country,” says Bhakti- of Southern Bhutan closer to households will also fall into man, a farmer from Lingden Samtse. The strategic location of this category. Given that each with a lost, helpless look on his the village allows for panoramic household comprises about 10 face. He belongs to this 400- and sweeping views of the great members, around 5,000 people year old community in Chukha Indian plains and scenic sunsets. would be displaced making it the Dzongkhag whose history and If we talk about untainted, this highest number of displaced peo- ancestry is embedded in the vil- may be a part of Bhutan that has ple by any development project so lage that he continues to live in remained pretty much the way far. The Punatsangchhu project today. Its ancestry is tied to the it has for centuries, far from the displaced 90 families. Lhops or Dhoyas, an indigenous prying eyes of tourists and cut-off, A farmer from one of the affected people that have been associated even despite its proximity to the areas said: “there cannot be a with this region from the time Indian border, because there are greater calamity. Where will the of Bhutan’s origin and may hold no roads that penetrate the vil- displaced families go?” the key to many anthropological lages. The government has plans and historical questions that we And now even before the rest though – the normal rehabilita- may have about the origin of our of the country, forget the world, tion plans to be more precise. nation. Unfortunately, this seems learns about the village and peo- It will compensate these house- to have little or no meaning, and ple of Lingden, their village will holds with land or cash.
48 The Raven NOV-DEC, 2012 feATURE
But such compensation plans come from? There are some added, “if it’s for your country often come with little research serious questions that need to you should be ready to sacrifice and no assistance whatsoever be weighed here. How can we your land.” THE AMOCHHU pROJECT REVIsITEd to a people who have no way of guarantee that none of these But that is easier said than done managing their finances or es- problems will be tied to such when it is not your land you are tates, nor the psychological tolls it displacements. Is there a provi- sacrificing, but somebody else’s. takes on them. Take for example sion whereby such projects can How can communities who have the people of Babesa. This was a be carried out without displacing spent hundreds of years in that village in Thimphu, the capital so many people? locality abandon it as if they were of Bhutan in which people are The government says there is checking out of a hotel? The expected to have more exposure added incentive, as it will provide people here breathe the air, drink and understanding of money 10,000 units of electricity to the water and feel the soil of their management. When the govern- each household over the project villages in their blood. This is ment appropriated the beautiful period. The authorities also say the only way of life they know. paddy fields from the rice farm- “employment opportunities” will Studies have shown that many ers, they were compensated with be created. indigenous communities suffer land or cash. But let’s take a hard look at these from severe psychological prob- Then they were on their own carrot sticks that the government lems when a way of live is pulled to figure out what to do with it. is dangling before the villagers. out from under their feet. There were tragic stories of how Chhukha Dzongrab Pema Dorji As for employment opportu- farmers who had never seen large in a public consultative meeting nities, would these people be sums of money in their lives, ill- on the hydroelectric project held happier living on their own land, spent the money buying cars and at the College of Science and farming it and being self-suffi- frivolous things. It was tragic that Technology on October 29, said, cient or as construction workers ancestral farms that had been “no assurance can be given to the engaged in strenuous labour at a the sustenance and livelihoods villagers that they would be com- noisy, polluted site for a meager of generations, were lost within a pensated with land.” He futher salary? year. For the government to show up with no money-management About 276 households will be displaced by the amochhu Hydro scheme for these villagers who project. have lived off the land for gen- erations and not educate, guide, assist, step by step on how they should invest or use their money, is really showing a lack of respect and negligence for its people. It is also setting itself up for innu- merable problems in the future. Displacing a community may be easy to do, but taking care of its aftermath is what they will be unprepared for. Social problems, unemployment, homelessness, alcoholism, drug abuse, are all going to increase if people don’t manage their displacement well. Society has seen a spate of these problems in the last few years and one wonders where they Photo Courtesy: Tarayana Foundation
The Raven NOV-DEC, 2012 49 feATURE
Yes, the most important thing communities is not new. Chhukha. disease. There is mounting is hydropower. A reservoir Globally, countries have A project of this scale means evidence that links big dams during the dry seasons will dealt the very same way that that it disrupts natural to earthquakes.” possibly not dry up and there we are with our indigenous seasonal changes in the However, considering all will be continued supply of groups. But, wait a min- river, and ecosystems are de- these facts if the government clean energy. ute, isn’t Bhutan supposed stroyed. It ends flooding that still wants to go ahead, 60 But extensive research that to be leading the way in help to clean out the silt in year old Agam Singh Rai has already been conducted unconventional methods of rivers, causing them to clog. from Lingden says, “The on other Dams tells us that development? More than Studies show that the plant government wants us to displacements are fraught with doing that with vegetables decay caused downstream move now after equipping problems and come at a huge (becoming the first country of major dams produces as our villages with all modern cost. What we need to look to become organic) why many greenhouse gases as amenities. If we move we at is this. Yes, while develop- don’t we start with people. more conventional methods want the very same things in ment projects like hydropower How we treat our indig- of producing electricity. Res- the land we are compensated are extremely important for enous groups will show the ervoir dams can also break with.” For those opting for Bhutan, isn’t Gross National world by example because into massive flash floods. cash compensation, the rates Happiness too? Aren’t we a as Courtenay says; “Indige- Arundhati Roy, the Indian vary from around Nu 2,000 country that has been built nous and tribal people have writer and activist wrote in to Nu 5,000 an acre taking up on Gross National Happi- a sense of stewardship to- one of her essays against the into factors such as whether ness? For a generation now we wards the land they inhabit, Sardar Sarovar dam: the land is chhuzhing or have seen and believed that and take many measures to “All over the world there kamzhing. This is said to be Bhutan is a largely happy place ensure the preservation of is a movement growing way lower than the going because people – especially in these natural habitats, an against big dams. In the market rate for land in that the rural and far-flung regions idea that is low on the list of First World they’re being area. – have been content living the priorities for many ‘devel- de-commissioned, blown up. More than 5,300 acres of way they have, with as little as oped’ nations. The lack of The fact that they do more land will be required for the it may be. They have been the political and legal infra- harm than good is no longer project. The total project true upholders of this phi- structure of such communi- just conjecture. Big dams cost is Nu 43,776.76 million losophy, while we in Thimphu ties, however, leaves them are obsolete. They’re uncool. and the preconstruction have proudly espoused its vulnerable to human rights They’re undemocratic. including infrastructure is values. abuses. Governments of the They’re a government’s way scheduled to begin by 2013. So, is the government acting countries that contain indig- of accumulating authority And this is just the begin- for a few who complain about enous people have a sense (deciding who will get how ning. The Sunkosh reservoir the economy, and unemploy- of right to use the land, and much water and who will which has a power genera- ment in Thimphu, at the cost homes, of tribal peoples as grow what where). They’re a tion capacity of 2, 560 MW of these people? Isn’t it the they see fit.” guaranteed way of taking a is also in the works. Imagine cumulative happiness of these The Amochhu dam is going farmer’s wisdom away from how many more people will innocent villagers and farmers to be 35 m high, 22 kms him. They’re a brazen means be displaced. who cherish their ancestral towards Pachhu (river) and of taking water, land and ir- Bhutanese decision makers lands and livelihood what 20 kms towards Amochhu rigation away from the poor and leaders “need to weigh makes up the Gross National (river) and the submer- and gifting it to the rich. the pros and cons very, very Happiness of Bhutan? gence will be 175 m deep. Their reservoirs displace carefully,” an engineer from An article written by Courtenay The backwater of Pachhu huge populations of peo- the Department of Hydro- Forbes, a Safeworld Student will stretch 11 kilometres ple, leaving them homeless power and Power Systems Writer, titled “The vulnerability and Amochhu’s backwater and destitute. Ecologically, said on grounds of anonym- of Indigenous Tribes: Tradi- will stretch 23 kilometres they’re in the doghouse. ity. If an official from within tional Custodians of the land” submerging 12 villages in They lay the earth to waste. the project says this, then reveals that this problem of three gewogs of Samtse and They cause floods, water- it might be time to give it how we deal with indigenous 21 villages in two gewogs of logging, salinity, they spread some serious thought. BY PEKY SAMAL
50 The Raven NOV-DEC, 2012 what ‘S your quirk Beautician Radhay Sham, popularly known as Shyam.
Age Entertainment I am 30 yrs old. I like dirty jokes and love to dance. Besides, I love listening Place to sentimental english I was born and brought up in and Dzongkha songs. Wangduephodrang. Now I run a beauty salon in Thimphu. Love I have never experienced it but I Life do believe in love at first sight. Life is a mixture of joy and sorrow. But in the end, life is beautiful. Interest I like fashion, even did a course Career on fashion designing in India. I turned my passion into a career and have been a beauti- Style cian for the last 15 years. My For me, style and fashion is customers are mostly middle- comfort. It doesn’t bother aged women, who I prefer. me as long as I am comfort- able with what I wear. Food I like all sorts of Dislike Bhutanese dishes. I dislike those who humiliate other people to feel good Vision about themselves. To help the old and the poor although I am not rich. I respect Quirk humanity and respect human People leave negative comments beings no matter who they are. and call me ‘little girl’ for what I am. But, I just don’t care about what they say and I carry on with my life the way I am.
The Raven NOV-DEC, 2012 51 story
know your FOOD “Fruit of the Gods”
Yellowish and mushy, the Aanday is enjoyed by many.
nutritional information Carbohydrates nutritional information A great source of carbohydrates and energy. Nutritional Information Proteins Nutritional Information Nutritional value per 100g Rich in protein. Nutritional value per 100g CaloriesCalories 70 70 Vitamins EnergyEnergy 293 kl293 kl Contains vitamin A (33%), Vitamin C(13%), Vitamin B- Riboflavin(208%), Folate(2%), Vitamin C (9%), Calcium CholesterolCholesterol omg 0mg (1%), CarbohydrateCarbohydrate 18.59g18.59g SugarsSugar 12.53g 12.53g Minerals Dietary Fiber 3.6g Contains minerals like iron, calcium, phosphorus, Dietary Fiber 3.6g Fat 0.19g manganese, potassium, sodium and copper. Fat 0.19g Protein 0.58g Protein 0.58g
52 The Raven NOV-DEC, 2012 “Fruit of the Gods”
Photo Courtesy: Google
very Bhutanese would has flavonoids that fight oxidants to have anti-hemorrhagic (bleed- have experienced the and reactive oxygen species ing from small blood vessels) and Astringent or that causes aging and forma- anti-infective properties. curdling thickness a raw not, aanday is Aanday (Persimmon) tion of chronic maladies. People good for wrinkles Aanday is not known to cause E with sensitive eyes should try . an allergic reaction and can be leaves behind in the mouth. Not a and pores nice feeling, but that is probably it as it has an important dietary enjoyed by pregnant women and because you picked the astringent carotenoid, Zea-xanthin, which babies alike. However, un-ripened fruit. The astringent variety is provides towards protective light Aanday has been known to cause very high in tannin which causes filtering functions in the eyes. Bezoars, a formation of ‘foodball’ the thickness; the same compo- As a good source of vitamin C, when the tannin shibuol in the nent also in red wine and tea. it helps in resisting infectious fruit reacts with acid inside the This variety needs to ripen before agents and pro-inflammatory stomach. It is generally advised to you can enjoy it. free radicals making it a good avoid eating the fruit on an empty choice for people who suffer from stomach. Widely available varieties in the arthritis. Aanday has the valu- Traditionally, Bhutanese enjoy it market are the astringent local able B-complex vitamins like folic as fruit leather (dried whole or Aanday and the Jiro, originally acid, B-6, thiamin which helps in sliced). The chewy treat can be a from Japan. Bhutan also grows metabolic activities. Even though great snack which also aides to the non-astringent variety, the it has high sugar content and soothe acid reflux. A good reason Hana Fuyu (Winter Flower). carbohydrates, this fruit is low for us to grab this ‘fruit of gods’ Though Hana Fuyu is usually in calories and can be a perfect and enjoy in the goodness it mistaken for its astringent cous- sweet substitute. brings this season. ins- Jiro- it is actually larger, more reddish orange in color and can A fresh Aanday will contain be eaten fresh. minerals like manganese, cop- per, potassium and phosphorus Either way, it’s great news for which all aide in eliminating Bhutanese if you need to pack in free radical, help in muscular, more natural vitamins, because skeletal, and digestive functions, Sources: Internet/Web, ministry of agriculture Aanday is full of it. It is rich in and production of red blood cells. website dietary fibers, and vitamin A. It The Catechin contents is known Source: USDA Nutrient Database
The Raven NOV-DEC, 2012 53 REVIEW restaurant
oba Tea is a tea based drink infused with fruit or milk and Tapioca balls, also known as tapioca pearls or bubbles. This “fun” drink, which has gained popu- larity worldwide over the years, has now seen many variations – simple green, black or white teas in- Bfused with fruit flavouring, fruity milkshake versions with a shot of tea and then the iced blended, fruity slush kind - more like smoothies - popular with younger children and adults alike. All these variations come with the chewy, fun and fill- ing black tapioca balls at the bottom of the cup which gives it the signature “bubble-tea” name. The fact that Tapioca or Taro, which is a sweet potato, is the base for Boba tea, almost makes it like a snack in a cup.
Boba Tea first originated in Taiwan in the 1980’s and gained popularity throughout Asia in the 1990’s. It has since be- come increasingly popular the world over and, now, thanks to The Bubble Tea House and its proprietor Sonam Wang- The Bubble Tea chuk, Bhutan’s capital, Thimphu, is finally on the bubble House tea map with its first taste of Boba tea. *****
Where Next to Druk Opticals, Clock Tower Square, Thimphu special Fast Food
TIMING 10 am – 8 pm
CONTACT # 77205779, [email protected] extra WiFi
54 The Raven NOV-DEC, 2012 The fact that Tapioca or Taro, which is a sweet potato, is the base for Boba tea, almost makes it a snack in a cup.
Sonam Wangchuk, a young aspiring entrepreneur, came up with the idea of introducing the product when he heard of success stories of other entrepreneurs who took the idea and introduced it in their respective countries. He started the Bubble Tea House in Thimphu, in Oct ober, this year.
The Bubble Tea House in the clock tower square has a varied menu to pick from. With eleven Bubble Tea flavours, the more traditional picks such as ‘Original’, ‘Taro’ and the bubble tea house flavours ‘Jasmine’ are the favourites of customers, the tea house also offers six different Smoothies that tantalize your taste buds to choose from.
The Bubble Tea House, by January next year, will be adding some more flavours to its menu, while coming up with smaller portions for those who think the present portions (400ml) are too filling.
Prices - Bubble Tea Nu. 160, Smoothies Nu. 165 and Cocktail Juices Nu. 110 a cup.
kiwi mocktail
The Raven NOV-DEC, 2012 55 REVIEW movie
he director of movies such as Chepai Bu and Muti Thrishing, Tshering Gyeltshen brings to the audience yet another film with a story-line that differs from the usual love sagas the Bhutanese film industry Tcontinuously churns out.
The story may somewhat be similar to the 1967 Hollywood blockbuster To Sir, with love but, by taking a different ap- proach, one that mirrors the Bhutanese education system, Tshering Gyeltshen manages to put across to the audience that an educator, if dedicated and passionate about his craft, can also be a good friend to students - a friend that opens doors to set them on the right course.
By taking a different approach, one that Thank you, mirrors the Bhutanese education system, Sir!! Tshering Gyeltshen manages to put across ***** to the audience that an educator, if dedicated director Tshering Gyeltshen and passionate about cast his craft, can also Tshering Gyeltshen, Tshering Zagmo, Karma Samdrup, Namgyel Lhamo be a good friend synopsis Thank you sir, is a story of a young enthusiastic teacher bounded by obscurity of life both personally and professionally. The movie portrays the lives of to students . teachers and the circumstances they work with, particularly in a rural setting.
56 The Raven NOV-DEC, 2012 The cast - bonding together.
As more and more schools and teachers are held account- able like never before for a student’s overall performance, the film’s release couldn’t have come at a better time. Tsher- ing Gyeltshen who plays the role of an English teacher is reason enough to watch this film, and his charisma makes the changes he brings to the students’ world seem entirely plausible. The cast, along with the fine cinematography, captures the complex nature of situations typical to schools in the Bhutanese landscape.
Shot over a seven-month period with a 750-member crew, Thank You Sir stands out in a world of spoon-fed plots and standard fare because of the film’s non-traditional structure and elements.
The Raven NOV-DEC, 2012 57 REVIEW book
he Elephant Adventure series is a great set of books that parents and older siblings may enjoy reading to children. It is a series of five installments in total with titles such as ‘Lamche Goes to Merak’ and ‘Lamche TLearns Quick’ - immediate favorites. The series doesn’t indicate which age group these books are intended for, but from its il- lustrations and the way the book has been written, it could be assumed that it is meant for children who are eight years of age or below
The books are a colourfully illustrated series about a young elephant, Lamche’s adventures in and around Bhutan, tak- ing him to new places like Merak, where he and his family befriend a group of Yak herders who are more than hospi- An Elephant’s table. There, Lamche makes a strange new friend, a young Yak named Dawala. Lamche also discovers the joys of travel with his family and learns new lessons from his various Adventure encounters along the way. Overall, the series imparts inter- esting facts to children, such as the extent of an elephant’s Series from memory, and Dawala‘s difficulty in coping with warmer weather and why. The series draws particular attention to being helpful and compassionate and in doing so demon- the Himalayan strates how team work and a little unexpected help can go a long way. It also emphasizes the importance of harmony between people and animals. Imparting these lessons Kingdom of through the life and travels of Lamche also makes the series Bhutan something worth considering for little ones. ***** The series draws particular
Author attention to being helpful By Pema Gyaltshen and compassionate. publisher DSB Publications
58 The Raven NOV-DEC, 2012 It is unclear if the author, Pema Gyaltshen – a teacher by might not have made as big an impression owing to pres- profession - intends to continue the series, but it would entation and readability, but with a little more attention be interesting to see where Lamche’s adventures take him to illustrations and detail, Lamche can definitely make an next. Pema Gyaltshen is a first time children’s author and impact. the five books in the series suggests a promising start. It
The Raven NOV-DEC, 2012 59 Living With Cancer
No one is struck with cancer because of the accumulation of past sins, says the first woman president of a political party in Bhutan, Lily Wangchuk.
It was a routine health check at she asked if it meant cancer. “You the JDWNRH hospital in 2011. have cancer.” Lily Wangchuk, the former Ex- The Doctor told her that it was ecutive Director of Bhutan Media endometrial cancer (cancer of the Foundation, was in the midst of lining of the uterus or the womb) preparing for the Royal Wedding and reassured her that it was then, and she hadn’t been feel- in the early stages and could be ing too well; a little weak as she treated successfully. described it. Perhaps exhaustion from all the preparations, she Endometrial cancer is appar- thought. She hadn’t been sick ently common although the exact and was not prone to being sickly cause is not known - increased either, but she thought a visit to levels of estrogen (hormones) the Doctor might help. After a are believed by medical profes- consultation, the Doctor took her sionals to have a role by causing blood. Weeks later the Doctor a build-up along the lining of the called to inform that they would uterus. High levels of estrogen in have to run some more tests to animals result in excessive endo- determine the anomalies in her metrial growth leading to cancer. blood. Lily didn’t think anything To understand how this hap- of it. pens, it is important to know A few weeks later Lily went to col- something about Estrogen. It is a lect the final results of the biopsy hormone and hormones are vital from the hospital. The Doctor chemical substances that are pro- wasn’t there but the results were. duced in humans and animals. Lily read the scrawl on her health They are messengers transmit- slip and saw the word “carcino- ting information from one cell to ma.” She immediately called the the other and influence every cell Doctor to confirm her suspicions. and organ in our bodies regulat- “Yes,” the Doctor replied when ing every aspect of our develop-
60 The Raven NOV-DEC, 2012 to her. Her older brother had also cancer cells. In the process of kill- succumbed to cancer and died, and ing the cancer cells it also attacks she knew firsthand the experience normal healthy cells and leads and pain of knowing that a loved to these disastrous side effects. one was dealing with a terminal ill- “It was not the cancer that made ness. “I could not think of breaking me suffer, it was the treatment,” “I could not think of this news to my family, especially she said. Now her hair is grow- my mother who is 84 years old,” ing back, but she prefers to wear breaking this news to she said. Instead the first person a wig because it makes her feel my family, especially she called was her spiritual teacher. normal again when she is around people. my mother who is 84 But Lily is known to be a go-getter, a person who will find a way - no During the course of her illness, years old.” matter what or how - to beat the Lily realized that people were ex- odds to get what she wants, and tremely ignorant about the illness this is what she did with the prog- she was suffering from. They nosis. She became determined to came to see her as well-wishers overcome it at all costs. She quickly and talked about how many planned a trip to the National Can- people they knew had died from ment and growth. Metabolism, cer Institute in Thailand without cancer, inadvertently reminding bone development, sexual func- informing her family or friends. “I her - like she wasn’t aware - of tion, tissue function, cholesterol, have always been very independ- this killer. ent and strong willed so I thought and even moods are all a result This lack of awareness made her of hormonal function. In women I could do this alone.” But, once in Bangkok, she realized it was a bad realize that there was a serious estrogen is responsible for the de- need to discuss this illness not velopment of their sexual charac- idea, and realized that this was un- like any other challenge she could only as a disease but also as a teristics and reproductive cycles. support group on Facebook for As a result Estrogen is contained deal with on her own. After all, she was staring death in the face. She people who were suffering from in birth control pills and it is used or who had relatives suffering in menopausal treatment. While broke down and eventually broke the news to her family. from cancer. She also wanted excessive use of estrogen can lead to dispel the belief that one was to cancer, different brands can After a series of new tests in Thai- struck with cancer because of the also treat cancer in some depend- land, she found out that her cancer accumulation of past sins. ing on the person. So it is advised was not in the first stage but at an that estrogen treatment should advanced stage (third). She under- Lily’s cancer is in remission, and be used carefully assessing ones went six cycles of chemotherapy she looks back at her cancer expe- medical condition. It is advised after the removal of her uterus. rience positively. She now knows that women, once they are in Following every operation, depend- that she makes a difference in their thirties, have regular pelvic ing on the type, a cancer patient is the lives of her family and friends examinations and Pap smears. required to undergo either radio- and that it is reason enough therapy or chemotherapy, or both to keep her going. As a young But even with reassurances from girl, I had this dream to start an the Doctor that it could be treat- from anywhere between one to two months or more. orphanage. As ironic as it seems, ed, news of this nature is never I can now focus on starting that easy to digest or comprehend. Lily lost weight and her long hair orphanage,” she said, knowing Lily went into a state of shock and was no more. She suffered bouts that fate had decided that she can slowly felt the gravity of the news of nausea, depression and fatigue. never be a mother. sink. There were tears, and mo- Chemotherapy is a treatment ments of serious contemplation where medicine is used to kill the of what would or could happen
The Raven NOV-DEC, 2012 61 tÊtE Á tÊtE
A Buddhist practitioner who Q You have successfully man- self importance and weird set up The Loden aged to bring the knowledge sense of sophistication. of the past and relay it in They would see education contemporary language for as equivalent to English Foundation, Karma people to understand today. and would look down on And because of your work, you the monks, even though the Phuntsho believes are one of the few well known monks were very learned. If Bhutanese Buddhist scholars you look at the depth of the abroad. Your comment. Buddhist education to that that Bhutanese I am not quite sure if I am of modern education, it is that well known. I would say incomparable. University society must now that I am one of the very few graduates at that time used Buddhist academics working to be very supercilious and abroad. There are so many arrogant and as a monk I be more ethically Buddhist lamas and Khenpos, could feel it acutely. Some who are philosophers and who of the monks I respected driven. have a much better reputation so much would suffer a lot than I. I may be one of the few of condescending attitude who transmits our own culture from these young graduates. and philosophy in the uni- Therefore, I decided to get a versal idiom, especially in the similar kind of education. intellectual academic idiom. Q: In your pursuit to digi- Q: Why did you choose to seek tize potis (Buddhist texts) an Oxford education, when for future generations, what you were already a learned challenges did you face? Lopen? In the past projects which I I was very fortunate to get have run, there were tangi- admission in Oxford with no ble challenges like finances under graduate degree or real apart from the cultural academic credentials apart challenges. [Some] Bhuta- from the English language test nese are very conservative, and few essays I wrote. One especially when it comes to main reason that drove me to- their heritage. For example, wards the west for a college ed- a temple owner would want ucation was of my experience to be very protective about as a monk. In the late 1980s the relics, and books are and 90s, university graduates part of the religious relics. would have this great deal of And many monks would
62 The Raven NOV-DEC, 2012 also have a rather conserva- tive stance on this because they believe in secrecy and the restrictive access to the materials, especially if the materials were of high esoteric content. So we have to respect the cultural sensitivity of course. In all our projects, we have given full copyright of the documentation of the archives to the owners, after all it’s their ancestors who produced and protected it for this long. It’s not at all fair for us to come with a camera and claim the copy- right. We follow a policy that the copyright remains with the owners, but they cannot place restriction on educational purposes. Of course, they have the right in further development of the materials, commerciali- zation of the materials, etc. Our main objective is to make it available for educa- tional purposes. 1930s, 40s and 50s. Basically Library’s archives. So we are we cover all the pre-modern building their archive at no Q: Can you tell us how monasteries and their expense to them. All they much progress you have LOPEN KARMA archives - anything that was have to give is official and been able to make in docu- PHUNTSHO printed on traditional paper, moral support, and that they menting these texts? which was done before the have given very willingly. For the last eight years, we industrial production was have managed to archive documented. Q: What about challenges 24 temples and two private from temple caretakers and collections. We have gone Q: Has the government been owners of private lhakhangs? around the country visiting supportive of these initia- Is there resistance at that significant temples, espe- tives? level or does the official cially those with significant Yes, they do provide support government letter work all libraries and we have so in terms of cooperation to the time? far digitized about three enter a temple or lhakhang The official letter does not million pages. These are owned by the government. always work. One example quite ancient books, and Also the work we are doing would be the Pagar temple, they come from [the] early and its end product will be which is downstream from 13th century all the way to delivered to the National Thimphu, well known for
The Raven NOV-DEC, 2012 63 centuries as a book produc- tion temple. Our team went I was very fortunate to get to Pagar with an official A permission, and we photo- admission in Oxford with graphed the archives for a month. Then a local lama no under graduate degree or came by and informed us real academic credentials. that Pagar does not belong to the Central Monastic Body or the government. So edies, what kind of loss did gong- which certainly came Q: When you talk about the team was chased out. you experience when Wang- from the 1st millennium manuscripts throughout Eventually it was taken over duephodrang Dzong was (8th century) that was badly Bhutan, there are few mon- by the Central Monastic burnt? What did you feel as charred by the fire. I was hit asteries that are really old Body, and the week we were a Buddhist and as someone very hard by this, probably and have original manu- preparing to revisit it, it got trying to document these because it was one of the scripts. So does that mean burnt. Pagar lost all their archives? oldest standing temples the rest of the lhakhangs written materials, except It was a very sad thing besides Jambay and Kichu have reproduced manu- for the set we photographed to see Wangdue Dzong Lhakhangs. scripts? during that one month. If burn. But I would say it As a historian I was aware Out of the 2000 or so they had allowed us, we did not hit me as hard as of how many times Dzongs temples, as per Department would have at least saved the Kenchosum temple have been razed to the of Culture, we can probably the digital copy of every- in Bumthang, which was ground by fire. This may be say that 10% of them would thing they had. These are razed by a fire a few years the second fire Wangdue have a substantial library. exactly the kind of reserva- ago. According to records I dzong suffered. I don’t also By substantial, I mean hun- tions we have faced from had found, the Kenchosum know if Wangdue had a ma- dreds of books rather than people be it for political, temple was renovated by jor manuscript collection- thousands. Most temples, religious or social reasons, Pema Lingpa, about 500 probably they did. When I pre 20th centuries will have or because they were just years ago. It was a very old did the cataloguing of the quite a lot of original and generally unwilling. establishment with very old Gangtey monastery, I found unique manuscripts with relics (which they managed that the Kangyur there had them, especially if they had Q: Talking about fire trag- to save), but there used to been copied from the one in a scholarly lama who was be a broken bell- a huge Wangdue. the member of the estab-
64 The Raven NOV-DEC, 2012 lishment. The scholarly rare. In case of Kangyur, lama would collect quite a it would be printed in lot of books, which would Tibet- the Bhutanese would A local lama came be left to the monastery. travel with huge collection A by and informed However, in most of the big of papers to print from monasteries, you will find a wooden blocks and bring us that Pagar common set of books - the it back to Bhutan. For does not belong Kangyur, Tenjur or Sixty some books, there were Volume Büm, the hundred wood blocks carved here in to the Central thousand version of the Bhutan. Punakha Dzong, Monastic Body or perfection of wisdom, the Trongsa and Phajoding had Getongpa, which is the a lot of wood blocks carved. the government. 8000 verses of Perfection With Punakha, we have lost of Transcendent Wisdom all the wood blocks in the and Domang, the praise of fire, so that basically means such thing as photocopy blocks and paper, what the Bodhisattva Tara. that even the books printed then. However, we should other kinds of materials did from these wood blocks are not mistake that a particular we use? Q: What kind of books rare. Sometimes, we find manuscript is the only copy Due to abundance of paper would you consider valu- very rare wood blocks and - copies would be made by making materials, Bhuta- able and original? hand written manuscripts many scribes. Each scribe nese straight away went to There are books which which is more valued. would attribute a different write on paper. By the time can be printed from wood Our focus is mainly on the error and a writing style literacy came to Bhutan, blocks. Unless the wood hand written ones, because which is unique and more paper making practices blocks are destroyed, the they are by definition precious. was well known around the manuscripts printed from unique as they are the only country. Local historians wood blocks are not very piece- there wasn’t [any] Q: Apart from wooden would claim that even as early as the 8th century, Bhutanese were making paper and taking it to Tibet, where paper was scarce. It was one of the best exports of Bhutan during those days, since Tibet did not have abundant plants to make paper. It was one of the main presents made by the Bhu- tanese to Tibetan lamas for religious projects. Bhuta- nese paper was of the best quality and very thick. Due to lack or limited resource, the papers in Tibet were made as thin as possible. With Bhutanese paper, we find that special manu- scripts pages are stacked to create more thickness, and can be as thick as a codex.
The Raven NOV-DEC, 2012 65 interview
Q: What methods do you use to document manu- scripts? A For the global population it’s a won- We use a digital camera derful project -making the Buddha’s for many reasons. The lack of electricity in remote word accessible. lhakhangs, and the need to carry generators to charge our laptops and batter- ies is one reason. Two, the collection of so many initially most of our literary stop the society from chang- with old books, they are so things- 108 volumes and heritage came from India, ing- we probably have to fragile that it might destroy almost the size of encyclo- we basically follow the go with the change and as the book while feeding it pedia Britannica, though Tibetan way of writing nam- far as possible making the through the scanner. Also printed in tight format, both thars -religious history. change positive and try to there is no portable scanner sides and loose leaved. reduce the damage. that would fit the big Bhuta- Q: There is a huge project In the 1990s Bhutan had nese books like the Kangyur Q: What is unique to Bhu- by Khyentse Rinpoche to discovered Hollywood that are roughly 70 cm tanese manuscripts that are translate the Kangyur to was following Buddhism long and 20 cm wide. With different from the rest of English. Do you think this (laughs). Richard Gere and cameras it’s much easier- the region? will simplify the Kangyur Robert Thurman was visit- we just set up a station and One of the amazing things for the Bhutanese and the ing Bhutan and talking on start clicking. about Bhutan is the life world? Buddhism. It is a bit sad writing. We find that a We cannot expect the world when we have really learned Q: There is a wealth of very lot of the lamas were very population to learn the and almost enlightened old knowledge that Bhutan enthusiastic biographers. original languages, so I lamas around us who would possesses. Do you think our They would write their own think for the global popula- impart the same knowl- mainstream population is biography or the biography tion it’s a wonderful project edge, in our own language, even aware of what we are of their lama, so quite a making the Buddha’s word but we would rather have sitting on? lot of historical knowledge accessible. For Bhutan somebody from outside When we are talking about has been retained through especially, it is going to at transmit that knowledge in mainstream, there are two these biographies. Although least affect the cultural and a foreign language. Though kinds- the educated main- you need to properly screen linguistic heritage. I think a bit ironic, the good out- stream and the Bhutanese through what we call people who would have had come is we are interested mainstream. When we talk hagiographic information - a little motivation to learn and want to know more about the educated main- hagiography is the study of Choekay in order to learn about Buddhism and the stream, like us who have saints - as these biographies the Buddha’s word may Bhutanese culture. They gone through the school might contain a lot of praise give it up, when there is an found English was practi- system and who don’t al- for the lama, miracles of the easier way of reading the cal. I do understand how ways have enough knowl- lama, meditation experience English version. they understand it - some edge of Dzongkha or Choe- of the lama. But we finally have truth in it, because kay, then most people are get a little bit of history, Q: There has been a wave some monastic[s] were very not aware. When they see perhaps a political leader of renewed interest in poor in transmitting and the 108 volume of Kangyur, the lama met. This trend is Buddhism. Do you think communicating with the they probably think it might quite similar to medieval that it’s a compromise we younger generation. Still have only prayers. But what Europe. In the 18th and have to make, rather than the irony is this lot wants to we have in there is actually 19th Century, Bhutanese entirely lose the tradition do it in a foreign language a lot of history, parables, were very great biographers of passing the Buddha line- (laughs). and philosophies, ethical and historians - they were age? and moral theories. It’s quite enthusiastic. Though Yes, I suppose so. You can’t Q: Let’s talk about your
66 The Raven NOV-DEC, 2012 The Raven NOV-DEC, 2012 67 initiative with the Loden Foundation. It was a perfect example of bodhisattva A digital copy of AN original philosophy being imple- manuscript. mented. How did you do it? You put it across rather grandly by calling it a bo- dhisattva initiative. Yes, the inspiration definitely comes from bodhisattva ethics and morality. It is something that I wanted to do, partly to repay the kindness to the teachers who have imparted their bodhisattva idioms to me and others. It started basically as a small token to help others get the opportu- nity I got. I had the luxury of exploring a diverse range of education system. So while I was at Oxford, I befriended a potter who was children who were pre- Q: Another initiative of the learning though very im- a large Welsh ex-policeman, schooled. So we decided Loden Foundation is the portant, left out the more and during one of our to set up these centers for Loden Entrepreneurship practical and personal life conversations he told me rural communities, and Program. Through this skills. It is mostly the young of how his missing educa- try to blend traditional you have been able to help school and college gradu- tion was very difficult for upbringing with modern nurture entrepreneurial ates who are more laid back him and he wanted to help early child care techniques. dreams. Yet, there are still and not willing to roll up someone get the schooling To make sure that we so many out there unem- their sleeves. he didn’t. That was how it nurture the traditional ployed and unwilling to take started- Robert sponsoring a forms of upbringing, we try up blue collar jobs. Do you Q: Then perhaps it is a young girl from Bumthang. to promote sitting on the think it’s a cultural issue? cultural issue, considering After which a few other peo- floors (of course carpeted I don’t think it’s a cultural that there is lack of dignity ple joined and that is how to keep them warm), play issue per se. When you go for blue collared jobs, which Loden began. with locally made toys and to the villages, you see the our system and society keep the duration short so Bhutanese are most enter- perpetuates? Q: The Loden’s efforts have that they can help and be prising. I could compare Our education system has diversified to early learn- with their parents. There the average Bhutanese to an gone wrong somewhere. If ing centers. What are your is also the local upbringing average Briton and say that we look at the farmers, who reasons behind starting this process which is in fact very the Bhutanese is twice more have not gone through this program? educational, since the main enterprising and hard work- system and brainwashed by We saw that one of the part of education comes ing, especially the farmers it, they don’t have any prob- areas neglected outside of from role modeling and if and villagers who have not lems rolling up their sleeves urban areas during that children don’t learn from been to school. Our own to do hard labour. They time (2004) was that rural their elders at the critical culture is not anti-entrepre- have worked on their land children did not have access stage, that’s when the child neurship or laid back. with dignity, and if they had to pre-school education and psychology is impacted. I think it’s the education more land they would be they had to compete with system - the theoretical dignified farmers. Dignity
68 The Raven NOV-DEC, 2012 in more ways was measured by when a well built Karma ap- from his wife and not allowed to the amount of land you had. peared. But the role was more or go to Burma was devastating. As But now when you look at the less accurate. He tried to once soon as he was diagnosed with younger generation who has meet me, but I was not in London cancer, he said: “Karma we are been through [modern] the that time. going to Burma.” But, the visa school system, that’s where they never came through. So it was have acquired a new sense of Q: I believe you performed the heartbreaking it that sense that dignity and the notion of what is last rites for your friend Michael a remarkable man who was so a respectable job. The educa- Aris. How does that feel, perform- devoted to his wife and her cause, tion system sort of develops ing the rites for a close friend? be destroyed by a disease. It was on it; when you have a child When you use the word ‘perform’, a very rapid decline - he was going through for good 12 to 15 I don’t know how people will walking fairly well in January, in years, and imagine those years react. It was a not a grand funeral February and March he needed swallowing things from the text ceremony that happened. But I as a walking stick, and then he was books. Unless we bring them up a very close friend and a supporter bed-ridden - it was so fast. It was with the respect for both blue of the family and also as some- partly because he went through collared and white collared jobs, body who could be slightly more so much stress - for his children, after 15 years of thinking and composed than the rest of the his wife, and his work which sped respecting them as different, we family, I had to organize things. the cancer. will not be able to change the The family members were totally But what I felt sad about is that mentality. We have to gradually shattered and I was in a slightly for a highly educated person, who change it through the system. better position. So I basically had had access to so many lamas and Of course, it would help if the to put together the events with the books, he was not spiritually pre- bureaucrats and the leaders help of Michael’s secretary. We pared for death. One can imagine would lead by example, but I had a very unique funeral for him how a person like Michael could sometimes wonder how many - it was a cremation of course - we be prepared - he was a cynical ac- of them actually do farming or had a Tibetan lama, a Benedictine ademic to begin with, he had two their own gardening. It’s how priest, and I, who chanted prayers boys to bring up, and his wife’s we look at it- we could either for Michael. So it was a funeral I cause - he wouldn’t have thought look at it as manual work, or performed in that sense, not in of dying, but rather what to do a luxury to be in touch with the traditional sort of way. next. So I sort of understand that nature. he was not prepared. It was sad Q: Was it heart breaking for you especially when the ability and Q: To move to an entirely dif- to see a man estranged from his lack of internal composure and ferent topic- Do you think you wife, the Burmese leader Aung wisdom to deal with the stress, were portrayed correctly in the Sang Suu Kyi, on his death bed? anxiety and emotions that was movie - The Lady? Well I have seen far greater churning inside him. It is much Well, I must say a lot of my unfairness in my life. I have easier to deal with other people, friends who went to see the lived with the Tibetans in India- I perhaps, but very difficult to deal movie called me up immedi- actually ran a nunnery for two with your own emotions when ately to tell me that the guy who years, and most of the nuns were they run wild. played me was not at all like me. political prisoners who had been He was more masculine and tortured. Q: You were near him till the scarred. But of course, it was heartbreak- end. What kind of comfort were ing for Michael, who was not only you able to provide Michael at his Q: Have you watched the movie knowledgeable but cultured and death bed? yourself? sensitive. He was very helpful to I suppose as a Buddhist monk I have, and I was rolling in my me - he was more or less my local then, I was of more comfort to chair, I couldn’t help laughing guardian. For him to be separated him by his side than the others
The Raven NOV-DEC, 2012 69 because I knew what to do and luminaries together for a cause? say, and also because we had a Not quite sure about my popularity lot in common to talk about - I (laughs). Among the three, I would was a Buddhist scholar and he say they are all driven by kindness. It was after was a Bhutanese historian and I have known our king as The A we had so many people we knew Crown Prince in Oxford, and one Michael’s death in Bhutan. I think that helped. of the things that stood out was that he was very kind, gentle and we were closest. Q: Can you describe how Suu highly compassionate. Of course, But, after his Kyi’s mental state was, towards the Dalai Lama is well known for the end of Michael’s life? his approach bringing compassion death,she (Aung I wouldn’t know for sure, into real life. And Joanna Lumley, Sang Suu Kyi) because I only had one phone she is among the British celebrity conversation and few letter who is most engaged in charity again went exchanges with her. On that work and that probably means through a long one phone call, the time when kindness and compassion. So, I had to break the news to her these three certainly share a sense spell of house that we are losing Michael, she of compassion and kindness. arrest. sounded very desperate at the other end saying: “Karma there Q: Has it been difficult to find the must be something we can do, spirit of volunteerism in Bhutan? there must be.” They hadn’t As a cultural scholar, investigating seen each other for some time. the Bhutanese cultural transition But one couldn’t help admir- - there are two different worlds ing Suu more by knowing this we are talking about. Look at our story, because she sacrificed her traditional world, which had a great ingrained in our culture. You build personal happiness and welfare deal of social volunteerism. When a chorten or a temple, many people for her people and democracy I was young, houses would be built will volunteer labour. If we want to is outstanding and probably in- through voluntary labour. If my paint the Changangkha lhakhang comparable. There are very few family built a house, the rest of the turret in gold, many rich people people, Mandela perhaps, who village would come to help. If our will contribute. gave up what they already had neighbour built [one], then all of But helping somebody go to school for the sake of a greater cause. us would go and help out. All we had to do is feed the people; the is something very new. Such things didn’t exist in the past and it’s a Q: Do you still keep in touch volunteers. Now it’s difficult to find new culture to provide scholarships with Aung Sang Suu Kyi? voluntary labour even in villages. or help somebody with medical We have never been in constant There is a serious disintegration of bills, etc. This is something Bhuta- touch. It was around Michael’s community happening all across nese will have to learn slowly and death we were closest. After his Bhutan. And I think it’s partly we are learning. We are trying very death, she again went through a because of the economic boom - hard to inculcate this new spirit of long spell of house arrest. It was or the supposed economic boom volunteerism even with the Loden difficult to get in touch with her. - that probably created the cash labour and the gradual detachment programs. Q: Owing to your popularity, you from the community. It’s tragic Q: What are your future plans with have been able to find support in that with this community spirit the Loden Foundation? celebrities like Joanna Lumley, break down, a lot of cultural herit- We are looking more toward the the Dalai Lama and our His age is lost. corporate sector to garner their so- Majesty Jigme Khesar Namgyel But religious volunteerism is still cial responsibility and make it mu- Wangchuck- what brings such alive and healthy and also deeply
70 The Raven NOV-DEC, 2012 tually beneficial. Now that our private sector is growing, it is necessary that we promote a more ethical and far more responsible business model. We don’t want to go the same route taken by the west to end up with economic recession and ecological degradation. What we want to do is make the idea of ethical business a common thing - it’s always a matter of habituation and we need to make it a popular culture that rubs on so people believe in it. It would be great to have the Bhutanese wanting to do business only with ethical business houses, which will in turn change the CSR policy of the business houses. One of the challenges is bringing Buddhist values into business, and more Bhutanese are going to face it. Spirituality and religion are part and parcel of our own daily lives. Your business should be your religion in a way - you are doing it prop- textual heritage with the oral tell, learnt and passed down by erly and it should lead you to heritage. Our heritage has memory. We are probably the last enlightenment as much as largely been oral. But things generation the oral culture has you sitting in a meditation are developing quite fast and touched. There is so much being cave. That is one artificial the only sad part is how much lost - for example, no one makes dichotomy we have whereas are we losing in this course mustard oil anymore, because we we should merge the secular of development, especially in can easily buy vegetable oil. Such and religious lives so that a respect to culture? We have local knowledge is slowing dying businessman can feel quite gone straight from oral to audio and this is the kind of thing I at home inside running an visual society and skipped the want to do – record this whole ethical business and think- literary phase. That’s why we process. It is a five year project if ing he is doing good for the probably have very poor reading it comes through. society and also accruing good culture. karma. But seriously, in order to get a holistic picture on our past we Q: Since you have achieved cannot completely rely on the a great deal, what are your books. We have to also listen plans for the future? to the folk stories and local It would be to complement narrative that ordinary villagers
The Raven NOV-DEC, 2012 71 most discussed news
Recalling 2012 both in mainstream and social media. Other media investiga- tions like the Bhutan Lottery case generated equally heated moments and memories that t was a roller-coaster of a public debate, as did the Denchi defined the eventful year. year. It had its own swing, land compensation issue and the In the beginning of 2012, a long a mix of highs and lows. Trowa theatre case. running controversy was laid to The water male dragon year The country’s mainstream media rest. The state funding saga that considered auspicious for itself took a rough tumble. The Istarting new ventures, marriage hogged the limelight for the last government’s advertisement four years came to an end. Even and bearing dragon babies is policy, particularly the ECB’s noti- after lengthy deliberations that drawing to a close. fication to provide advertisement went back and forth, the two The whole nation is pulsating only to three state-owned media houses of Parliament couldn’t with excitement as elections are houses, upset most of the private reach a consensus. The bone due next year; and 2012 could media firms. This decision was of contention was the issue of not have ended on a more excit- later revoked. And it did not help constitutionality of state funding ing note. The Raven looks back the government’s credibility for political parties. The winter in nostalgia through a stack of when a confidential memo from parliament session in January the information and commu- withdrew state funding for politi- nications minister barring the cal parties. bi-weekly, The Bhutanese, from During the same session, the receiving government advertise- controversial Tobacco Control ments, was leaked. The minister Act was amended and a lot of struggled, with characteristic bra- its provisions were relaxed. This vado and clumsiness, to explain Act in particular invited fierce that one. resistance from certain quar- In the run up to the 2013 par- ters of Bhutanese society and liamentary elections, four new considerable attention from the aspiring political parties declared international media. A group their intent to contest. The of concerned citizens started a Bhutan Kuen-Ngyam Party and Facebook movement followed by the Druk Chirwang Tshogpa have a signature campaign to amend already applied for registration the law, which they claimed was with the Election Commission of ridiculously draconian and one Bhutan while the Druk Nyam- that infringed on civil rights. rup Tshogpa will do so in a few On the political front, the Nation- months’ time. The Druk Mitser al Assembly Speaker’s decision to Tshogpa, however, dissolved into quit politics caused quite a ripple. a youth political lobby group. The Rumourmongers had a feast. The new parties are grappling with Anti-Corruption Commission has finding credible leadership and levelled criminal charges in the candidates. The “headhunt” is in Mongar district court against the full swing. Speaker and the Home Minis- Meanwhile, the economic climate ter for their involvement in the grew brutally grim. The country’s Gyelpoizhing land allotment case economy still tosses and turns as during their terms as Mongar it rides out a tsunami of difficul- Dzongda. ties. The rupee crunch brought to The Gyelpoizhing case, dug out light our economic vulnerability. by the media, stirred discussions
72 The Raven NOV-DEC, 2012 The government hit the panic button. As immediate measures, most imports were curbed, taxes were discussed raised and financial institutions The minister cut back severely on lending. news in OCT Such drastic moves affected most struggled, with businesses, small and big. The most hurt were the construction characteristic industry and car dealers. bravado and The central bank had to sell 150 foreign currency reserves to meet clumsiness, to Of the 3,500 tigers in the the increasing rupee demand. explain that one. world, 150 call Bhutan their All the while, the country’s debt home. has been on the rise and inflation peaked to an all time high in the second quarter of 2012. non-permanent seat at the United A typical case of a good inten- Nations Security Council did not tion gone bad, the government’s receive the same approval. Bhu- decision to introduce Pedestrian tan lost to South Korea. 686 Day on Tuesday earned the ire Following this unsuccessful bid, After the Oriental Bay Owl of many Bhutanese. This issue the opposition leader questioned was spotted in Bhutan, the generated as much hype as the government’s foreign policy number of Bird species disdain. Eventually, when criti- priorities and demanded that the found in Bhutan has shot cism reached intolerable heights, government reveal the expenses up to 686. the government gave in, doing incurred during the campaign. away with the pedestrian day on The Prime Minister, in response, Tuesday. It was shifted to the first called the opposition leader an Sunday of every month. unpatriotic and disloyal citizen, The Prime Minister’s meeting fuelling a war of words between with Chinese Premier Wen Jiabao the government and the opposi- at the sidelines of the Rio Sum- tion party. 56 mit ruffled a few feathers, both On a happier note, the Tour- Nu 56 fetched the same in the Indian subcontinent and ism Council of Bhutan won us a amount of goods and back at home. It was followed by certificate from the Wanderlust services in 2003, as Nu 100 listless conspiracy theories writ- Travel Magazine as a top country fetches today. ten by India-Bhutan watchers and destination. Magazine readers foreign policy experts. voted Bhutan as their favourite The 20th round of Bhutan-China travel destination after Japan. border talks took place in Thim- Bhutan scored 96.27 percent, phu. The two countries agreed to only 0.6 percent short of Japan’s solve the issue at the earliest “in score. the interest” of both nations. We bid farewell to bitter-sweet One of the biggest achievements 2012. But with elections, political in 2012 was undoubtedly the campaigning, and all that jazz, United Nations’ endorsement of 2013 will surely turn out to be the happiness resolution. In its a wonderful rollercoaster ride. 25 Local government posts wake, the country was hurled into Brace up! the world centerstage. However, still remain vacant, despite three rounds of local gov- Bhutan’s bid to claim a rotational By Tshering Dorji ernment elections.
The Raven NOV-DEC, 2012 73 art
Gongsar Ugyen Wangchuck by Dhondup Roder Trained as a Graphics Designer, Dhondup believes beauty can be playful. His work attempts to find a balance between minimalist elegance and the visually quirky. He works as a freelance Graphics Designer in Thimphu.
74 The Raven NOV-DEC, 2012 students enrolling into the Continue Education program in Sherubtse college has increased from UNSC Elections Bhutan Kuen-Ngyam Partyi three in 2007 to 30 cur- Bhutan lost the UN Security BKNP may have been the last to rently. According to College Council seat after garnering just declare itself as a political party but authorities, the continuing 20 votes out of 192 votes cast. it was the first to register with the education students perform Election Commission of Bhutan.. better both in academic and co-curricular activities.
rice of doma shot up by P32 percent compared with last year.
s the inflation rate in ABhutan has decreased from 13.5 in the second quarter to 11.17 in the third Domestic Flight Amochhu Project quarter, the price of good and services has decreased The inaugural flight to Gelephug The Amochhu Project dam will by 2.36%, according to the Domestic Airport has been a success, be fed by two rivers whose back- consumer price index. in that this route is the third network water will submerge 12 villages in in the domestic aviation. Samtse and 21 in Chukha. he water level of the TThorthomi glacial lake has been lowered by five meters last month. The lake is considered a potential threat downstreams.
hutan’s rupee debt Bstands at Ngultrum 45 billion (71% on hydropower The Strict Disciplinarian Tshewang Tashi and 28% on short term liabilities). Tshewang Tashi is the first wom- Tshokey, a Dzongkha teacher of Bud- an civil servant to join politics hashi community school in Goshing, this year. She will contest from Zhemgang allegedly injected students the Bhutan Kuen- Ngyam party. with a raw and unsterilized syringe as punishment.
The Raven NOV-DEC, 2012 75 last word
round this time, in preparation for the annual choku at home, my uncle comes over to make sikam for the family. The block of meat would be left out in the cold the night before so that it gets chilled Aenough without totally freezing over. The next morning, he lays out a mat and takes out his special dozom with a flourish, which he inspects by running his thumb the entire length. As he zeros the tip of his dozom to tentatively mark the thickness for the strip on the pork hide, he is like an artist slowly driving his knife through hide, lard and meat. My uncle is an excellent sikam slicer. I have always been fascinated with what our hands can do when the mind and heart have our back. My uncle is as good at traditional painting as he is at slicing meat. He is also good at shaping chopping blocks. He is a simple and ordinary man, but he seems to find inspiration from the mundane things that surrounds us. The joy of really giving the best is what gets him revved up, as most should. It really isn’t about the task as long as it’s done well; it becomes the measure of a person and what he/she deems “important”. Yet, here we are trying hard to inculcate dedication, determination and dignity back into the fabrics of our very own society, which is ironic especially when it is evident our forefathers put their back (read literally) for their future, of which we are lucky to benefit from. An agrarian society actually alludes to our ancestors who had to have a “hands on” attitude about living. Putting the “blue back in our non-existent collar” may be difficult when the mind has been aggressively reset from the time we joined school. The bour- geois in modern education have managed to change a “hands on” attitude to slowly but surely a “hand it over” attitude. This November brought two events in Thimphu, which is symptomatic to each other in a sense; the Global Entrepreneurship Week was a campaign to recognize entrepreneurial practices and provide a forum for policy makers and speakers to promote a “culture of innovation”. The other event was the celebration of the World Diabetes Day, where citizens rallied against unhealthy lifestyles and took to testing their blood sugar level. To point out the obvious, Bhutan is suffering from two lifestyle diseases. Unemployment, in Bhutan, is begotten by avoiding to “roll up the sleeves”. Diabetes stems from ignoring a life of discipline and determination. It is not so much what can be avoided but what can be done with it. A proper “rewiring” of attitude is what it will take to begin the mend. Maybe it’s wishful thinking, but if we do that, we may probably be on our way to saying goodbye to these mala- dies that cripple our society. In the words of Bruce Lee, “knowing is not enough we must apply, willing is not enough we must do.” And the question we need to ask is do we have the fire to work up a storm?
Karma Choden (Managing Editor)