Taking on Tanera Mór

of Soay in the St Kilda Group continue to provide insights. He was living at Dundonnell, at the head of Little Loch Broom, on the outbreak of the John Humphries considers Second World War. Too old to be called up, how the population of the he declined civilian work in the south and Taking on chose to experiment in transforming Summer Isles has apparently sterile soil into fertile fields. He fluctuated, but how one moved to Tanera Mór, the largest of the Tanera Summer Isles, and for four years reclaimed family has recently made and cultivated land, writing Island Farm as a significant difference to a record. island life. During the late 1930s, Frank Fraser Mór Darling with his first wife, Bobbie, and son, Alasdair, had spent time on the most remote of the Summer Isles, Priest Island. The Off-shore islands have attractive For the past ten years Isle Martin has been in record of this stay is to be found in his Island qualities, but then sometimes fall out of community ownership with an emphasis on Years. Pupils from Whitgift School, favour or fashion, abandoned by residents. making it accessible. There are people still Croydon, spent some two weeks on the However, what is discarded by one generation alive who recall being taught at the ‘new’ island in 1960, following up the researches is eagerly acquired by another. The comings school. It did have that temporary feel – of the English-born naturalist. and goings of people with projects and being made of corrugated iron and shipped passions are well-documented in these pages. across from the mainland – but the education Darling’s legacy They make good reading by reflecting that it provided from 1940-49 provided its pupils The legacies of Frank Fraser Darling’s work human desire to establish permanence. with accessibility to work beyond. are numerous and the two mentioned books Joan Michael’s article on Isle Martin, in are due to be republished within the next two Loch Broom, appeared in the November/ Developing in isolation years. His former home on Tanera Mór is in December 2009 issue of this magazine. She There has been a determined effort to show The Anchorage, a famous natural harbour, how relatively isolated places can be and continues to attract readers of his exploits Above: The Summer Isles showed how this part of the Summer Isles and were conquered. In 1995 the island viewed from a mainland could have been settled by monks moving developed. Frank Fraser Darling (1903 - 79) as well as visitors wanting a short walk from changed hands and, for the past 15 years, has beach. off from Iona, how a herring curing venture was not only a writer on matters of natural the main jetty, served by boats from Ullapool been given a new lease of life. This has was established in the 1770s, with its old history, but he had a desire to show the and Achilitbuie. involved those labours of love involving buildings taken over by a flour mill which potential of island habitats. His researches on The cruise boat, The Summer Queen, plies construction, where the arduous often lasted for ten years from 1937. the seals of North Rona and the unique sheep regularly to the island from around the outweighs the amorous! beginning of May until the end of September. The number of passengers in Bringing an island to life 2009 reflected the increasing popularity of Three piers had to be renovated, houses holidaying in the Highland & Islands. They restored, the post office and café maintained would have included some visitors from and people encouraged to visit and stay. The Right: Bill and Jean Wilder Europe taking advantage of favourable Wilder family saw the potential in doing in the middle; daughter, currency rates. Lizzie and husband, Richard something different that would have a lasting on right; sons, Jack and impact on the appearance, infrastructure and Harry, with Jack’s wife, From visitors to residents economy of the largest of the Summer Isles. Grace, on left. The island The inquisitive visitors who become People just keep on coming. residents are wearing permanent residents are all-important. In the yellow wellingtons! The holiday lets have both first-time 1990s, Bill and Jean Wilder were committed occupants as well as valued ‘regular to their 400 acre farm in Wiltshire. However, returnees’ who feel at home on Tanera. An they sensed change ahead and put their farm appealing feature is the Sailing School that on the market. The display advertisement of has been established for five years. Six their property in Country Life magazine was sailing dinghies are for hire and tuition is complemented by something which really available. The Wilder family much enjoy aroused their interest. giving local schoolchildren their first taste of Adjacent to it was an advertisement for an this type of activity. 800-acre property – comprising Tanera Mór, The café is where many day-trippers are ̈ its nine houses and facilities. They came, saw content to give their taste-buds a treat with

34 SCOTTISH ISLANDS EXPLORER MARCH/APRIL 2010 MARCH/APRIL 2010 SCOTTISH ISLANDS EXPLORER 35 Taking on Tanera Mór Taking on Tanera Mór

The Wicker Man, shot in 1973. Visitors were fashionable. The family continues to work occasionally bring up the topic, but the sympathetically with the land; promoting

Above: Sunset over the location for this fictional off-shore place was conservation and limiting ecological impact. Summer Isles. home-made produce. Fairtrade tea and courses are held on the island. These include actually far away …. on the mainland … at Lizzie and Richard are particularly keen on the coffee have been standard for many years, painting, weaving, creative writing as well as Newton Stewart in Dumfries and Galloway. next phase of the island’s development. This will but 2010 will see an increase in these photography. Yoga and kayaking courses will The future of the largest island in this group, be exploring alternative energy sources, increasing products available. Hand-made greetings also be presented this year. passed by thousands of passengers each year the energy efficiency of the houses and seeking cards feature the work of neighbourhood as they travel on CalMac’s Ullapool - other ways to live more harmoniously with artists, and these include Jean Wilder. These An unstable population Stornoway service, is in the capable hands of the environment. are beautiful and specialist products which The graph of permanent resident numbers of the Wilder family. Bill and Jean have been stand alongside something that is unique Tanera Mór performs a statistical roller- joined by their daughter, Lizzie, and her A taste for more to Scotland. coaster. From 119 inhabitants in 1895 the husband, Richard, who have recently moved Day-visitors, sailing-school enthusiasts, holiday- figure fell within six years to 70. Then it from their Cambridgeshire home to help tenants, salmon-farm employees will continue to Island stamps collapsed to zero in 1931, revived to six in them manage the island. launch out across Loch Broom. Some will leave Here is the only Scottish island with a licence 1961, declined to two in 1971 before richer, some more relaxed, others refreshed and to produce its own postage stamps. They are climbing to eight in 1981. Ten years later it A green future some two-thirds of those using the holiday on sale in the island’s post office, but most of was back to the bottom, with no one there. The Wilders’ farm in Wiltshire won prizes accommodation will just return, understandably the business is done at the Philatelic Bureau, Now it stands at six. for its conservation work before ‘green’ issues wanting more of Tanera Mór. ࣴ based in Perthshire and run by former island factor, Gerry Mickelburgh. The stamps first The Wilders and wildlife appeared just before the change to The Summer Isles archipelago consists of 23 Below: Highland decimalisation in 1971 and new sets are islands and is within a National Scenic Area, cattle are a common Further information issued regularly. one of 40 areas in Scotland considered of sight on the island. In the summer of 2010, ‘Tartans of the national significance because of their • All-year-round special ferry-services are North Number 3’ will be issued. An issue outstanding scenic interest. Conservation of arranged for guests 01854 622252 www.summer-isles.com commemorating the life and times of Frank wildlife, and reducing environmental impact, [email protected] Fraser Darling will be released to coincide are issues that the Wilder family has been • Getting There in the Summer Months: with the republishing of his books, and will addressing for many years. Summer Queen (from Ullapool): be awaited with interest by a group of As a contribution to re-establishing the www.summerqueen.co.uk philatelic enthusiasts whose members are highland habitats that were lost with 01854 612472; Hectoria (from Achiltibuie): based worldwide. Some even make the www.summer-isles cruises.co.uk/main.htm increasing deer and sheep numbers, 160,000 • Local Tourist Association journey to see the geographical source of native hardwood trees were planted over the www.coigach.com their stamps, and many of the island’s island in the first few years after the Wilders [email protected] visitors enjoy sending postcards from the arrived. With no browsing mammals on the post office with these unique stamps. island except a pair of elderly, fenced, highland cattle, these trees are growing well, Creative sparks if slowly. The dramatic scenery and ever-changing light The name ‘Summerisle’ referred to a kindles creativity, and various residential pagan island featured in the acclaimed film, 36 SCOTTISH ISLANDS EXPLORER MARCH/APRIL 2010 MARCH/APRIL 2010 SCOTTISH ISLANDS EXPLORER 37