“Simply the most beautiful and exciting woman any of us knew” —GAYATRI DEVI

citing woman any of us knew.” Indira’s carriage in the portrait is regal and determined. The tilted head and gaze hint at humility, the thrust-out chin in- sinuates defiance and strength. It’s a fit- ting pose for a woman who, in 1911, caused an international scandal when she cancelled her arranged marriage by telegram to the of Scindia be- cause she had fallen in love with Prince Jitendra of and escaped to in 1913 to marry at age 20. They became the Maharaja and Maharani of Cooch Behar; but tragedy struck when excessive drinking took Jitendra’s life af- ter nine years and five children. Full tilt The image Princess of style of the Widowhood didn’t stop Indira from trav- Maharani elling extensively with her kids, becoming after it was part of the European set and collecting restored friends like the Prince of Wales and Doug- las Fairbanks Jr. She was India’s first in- nostalgia ternational celebrity. Evelyn Walsh, a friend of hers from Philadelphia, recall- ing the queen at a casino in Le Touquet in the 1920s, describes her as “the most fabulously beautiful young Indian lady, high profile holding the longest cigarette holder I had ever seen, wearing a brilliant sari and On holiday in India, JULIA BOOTH chanced upon covered with pearls, emeralds and rubies. She was quite poker-faced, but had a pile an old photo of an Indian princess. As she set about of chips in front of her to testify to her restoring it, an amazing story emerged success, and to top it all she had a live tur- tle, whose back was laden with three n my first visit to Kolkata nowned beauty, and here I was with her strips of emeralds, diamonds and rubies, this February, I was rum- portrait. Without hesitation, I bought it. and which she used as a talisman.” maging through photos at an antiques store when, in Clearing it up Full circle O the middle of a dusty pile, I Back in Sydney, the photo in the process When the portrait came back restored, I found the strikingly beautiful image of a of being restored, I began scouring imag- could read the stamp: Hanover Square, woman. Her strong profile and soft down- es of Gayatri Devi. Something didn’t London—the address of Vogue House, ward gaze set her apart from the others. seem right—the strong jaw of the woman the offices of Condé Nast. The photo was Someone had distractedly coloured in in my photograph didn’t match the gen- taken at the famous portrait studio Lena- some of her jewellery, but it couldn’t mask tle, open images of the princess. I sought re, once located at Vogue House, where the high-voltage glamour of her diamond help from a friend, who emailed the por- celebrities and royalty of the 1920s and earrings and pearl necklace. There was a trait to an expert in India. The response 1930s came to be immortalised. The stamp on the back of the photograph, but was remarkable—the woman in the im- pearls were more clearly visible. I also no- I could barely make out two words. I was age wasn’t Gayatri but her mother, In- ticed something about her enigmatic half captivated. “I think she is Gayatri Devi,” dira of Baroda. She was petite, with a smile. Perhaps a glint of what the author the shop owner told me. deep, husky voice, a sharp mind and ex- William Gerhardie said of her: “With her, I’d read about the Maharani of , traordinary charm, and Gayatri described life was never dull and you never knew queen, politician, philanthropist and re- her as “simply the most beautiful and ex- what would happen next.” n

142 vogue india deCeMBeR 2011 www.vogue.in