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Weekender Apr-May 2021.Indd APR-MAY 2021 SUMIRE Are we having fun yet? ROBERT WHITING’S NEW MEMOIR JAPAN’S GREAT OUTDOORS LOVE AND THE CONSTITUTION The venerated author waxes poetic about Some fresh air would do us good – get your Japan’s latest same-sex marriage victory is Tokyo’s turbulent past nature fix this spring too little, too late for some — 2 — Weekender_August_Master_002.indd 2 2018/07/24 11:41 CONTENTS RADAR IN-DEPTH GUIDE THIS MONTH’S HEAD TURNERS COFFEE-BREAK READS CULTURE ROUNDUP 8 AREA GUIDE: DOWN BY THE BAY 16 SHARING HOPE OF A BETTER FUTURE 44 THE ART WORLD Kasai Rinkai Koen is a family favorite but Stage, music and fashion icon Sumire shares a Our pick of the best new art exhibitions. go deeper into the Kasai neighborhood to positive message for those in need of one. Plus: What we’re reading next in the TW discover Tokyo’s Little India. Book Club. 22 ‘EQUAL UNDER THE LAW’ 10 STYLE: NEW BEGINNINGS Bi-national couples face an uncertain future 46 AGENDA Stylist Shoi Sapeta shows us how to stay until Japan recognizes same-sex marriage. What’s on in Tokyo during April and May. comfy yet fashionable this spring. 24 AN URBAN ESCAPE LIKE NO OTHER 48 TW SOCIAL 14 TRENDS: INSTAGRAM TIPS FOR THE The new Tokyo American Club Nihonbashi Staying safe while staying connected. PERFECT SOFTCREAM PHOTO facility will make you say, “Wow.” Capture a photo of your favorite creamy treat that is sure to melt hearts online. 26 A HARD HABIT TO KICK Author Robert Whiting recalls his run-ins with some of Tokyo’s most notorious characters. 30 DINING CURATION It’s like dining in an art gallery at sushi chef Hisashi Udatsu’s Nakameguro restaurant. 34 GOING ROGUE Just years after setting out on his own, RK is one of Tokyo’s most exciting photographers. 37 RESILENCE AND STRENGTH Ten years after 3.11, we look at the astonishing progress made in the Fukushima area. 38 OUTDOOR SPECIAL Get some fresh air, adventure and exercise this season in Japan’s great outdoors. — 3 — April - May 2021 Publisher ENGAWA Co., Ltd. President Takanobu Ushiyama Editorial Director Nick Narigon Creative Director Liam Ramshaw Art Directors Rose Vittayaset David Jaskiewicz Senior Editor Lisa Wallin Features Writer Matthew Hernon Digital Content Coordinator Lisandra Moor Editorial Assistants Taylor Stewart Jordan Green Zoria Petkoska Contributors Bunny Bissoux Stephan Jarvis David Schneider Community Strategist Alex Shapiro Head of Sales Hirofumi Ohuchi Sales Executives Takaaki Murai Kahori Terakawa Serina Doi Marion Aubert Shizuka Kimura Konatsu Satake Kazuko Ito Kaori Masui Media Producers Yuchen Ho Ryoko Ogawa Cover photo by Allan Abani at Tokyo American Club EST. Corky Alexander, 1970 For ad sales inquiries, please call (03) 6432-9948 or email: 2F OSK Catherina, 1-12-12 Shinjuku, [email protected] Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo 160-0022 (03) 6432-9948 / (03) 6438-9432 (fax) 広告に関するお問い合わせ先 [email protected] 電話：(03) 6432-9948 メール：[email protected] To subscribe to Tokyo Weekender, please visit Opinions expressed by TW contributors are www.tokyoweekender.com/subscribe Published by ENGAWA Co., Ltd. not necessarily those of the publisher www.engawa.global — 4 — EDS’ CHAT @nicknarigon: Liam, what is your favorite part @nicknarigon: Sumire was great, wasn’t she? So about spring in Tokyo? gracious, and graceful. Sushi chef Hisashi Udatsu (page 30) is also pretty super. I gobbled up his @liam_ramshaw: That’s an easy one. I love the avocado and natto wrap, and I hate natto. Any annual two-week period of outdoor communal foods you look forward to eating as Tokyo opens drinking. There is only a small window of time up from its latest SOE? every year where it’s acceptable to crack open a beer before lunch, sit under a tree, eat seasonal @liam_ramshaw: Funny you should mention that snacks and enjoy mother nature in all her glory. actually, from next month the TW team will be How about you? on a year-long mission to scour the length and Nick Narigon Editorial Director breadth of the country in search of Japan’s craziest softcream fl avors. It’s going to be a crazy adventure, think Lord of the Rings, but with softcream. Make There is only a small window sure to check out our YouTube channel next of time every year where it’s month to see the saga unfold. acceptable to crack open a beer @nicknarigon: I’ll put on my helmet and grab my before lunch, sit under a tree, eat battleaxe and enjoy the softcream adventures from seasonal snacks and enjoy mother home. I think we are all ready for a new adventure in 2021. nature in all her glory Liam Ramshaw Creative Director @nicknarigon: Since Tokyo barricaded o my favorite cherry trees to keep me from spreading SOMETHING FOR THE WEEKEND Covid-19, I have my eyes set on the hiking trails Our roundup of what tickled our fancy and ground our gears this month out west. I also have my eye on our guide to camping gear (page 39). What’s catching your eye INTO IT OVER IT F*CK IT these days? Sapporo’s District Court Slow progress Bigots worldwide @liam_ramshaw: The main thing that’s been catching my eye recently is the Tiktok channel Night picnics Online hanami Yoyogi Park of this month’s cover star Sumire (page 16). Not only was she one of the most down-to-earth and Kamakura hydrangeas Balcony gardening Hay fever friendliest stars we’ve ever interviewed, her social media videos are amazing, providing a really Sustainable fashion Fast fashion Elastic waistbands positive message to those in need of one. VISIT OUR WEBSITE JOIN US ON FACEBOOK FOLLOW US ON TWITTER FIND US ON INSTAGRAM WWW.TOKYOWEEKENDER.COM FACEBOOK.COM/TOKYO.WEEKENDER @TOKYO_WEEKENDER TOKYOWEEKENDER Available to Never Miss an Issue of download from Tokyo Weekender Magazine Visit the TW website to read the digital version of our magazine every month: tokyoweekender.com/weekender-archives Or download our app from the Google Play and Apple Store. — 5 — Looking for a great place to eat, shop, sleep or play in Tokyo? Welcome to TW's roundup of recommended restaurants, hotels, stores, experiences and more. Here, we share this month's editor's picks, but for the full lineup head to www.tokyoweekender.com/the-concierge Sukiyabashi Katsuragi Fujimoto Samboa Kitanomaru Dental Clinic Opened October 2010 in Ginza, this non- After driving up a long winding road, offering At this Ginza-based clinic, which was found- smoking standing bar, which was founded in expansive views over the rolling mountains ed in 1981, you’ll not only receive world-class Kobe more than 100 years ago, offers various and towns of Shizuoka, you arrive at Katsuragi specialist restorative and periodontal dental classic cocktails and rare Japanese whiskey. Kitanomaru, a dream-like castle resort con- care, but you’ll also be in the expert hands The street-facing bar, an unusual sight in structed from seven 200-year-old repurposed of Dr. Kohei Fujimoto. He is fluent in English, Ginza’s Sukiya-dori, has a sleek European- country homes. Make sure to stay in one of a graduate of the University of Washington’s style interior. A compact bar, Sukiyabashi the Japanese-style suites and let yourself get Graduate Periodontics Program, and certified Samboa creates a calm space making it a transported back to the Edo era. To complete as a Diplomate of the American Board of marvelous location for intimate after-work your modern castle experience, indulge in one Periodontology. Appointments can be made drinks or social gatherings. With their of the hotel’s splendid kaiseki dinners, which via phone. collection of unique drinks and mixes, which combine the region’s best produce and meat can only be tried here, it offers one more in a beautiful succession of courses you will reason to visit Ginza. never forget. www.samboa.bar yamaharesort.co.jp www.fujimoto-dental.com 03-3572-5466 0538-48-6118 03-5551-0051 1F 7-3-16 Ginza, Chuo-ku 2505-2 Ugari, Fukuroi, 4F Kami-Pulp Kaikan, 3-9-11 Shizuoka Ginza, Chuo-ku modern.ribs.holly pounding.torched.thinks edges.shelters.rainy — 6 — 8 10 14 Area Guide: Kasai New Beginnings Photogenic Softcream Known more for its spacious park, this Stylist Shoi Sapeta shows us how Find out how to take an Instagram photo bayside neighborhood is also home to to stay comfy while also looking of your softcream that will make all the Tokyo’s Little India. fashionable this season. hearts melt. — 7 — Best known for its spacious Down by bayside park, the Kasai area is also Tokyo’s home for Indian culture and cuisine the Bay Words and photographs by Stephan Jarvis hanks mostly to the IT boom of the early Little India 2000s, Tokyo has seen an increase in the Known as ‘Little India’ to some, Nishi Kasai lacks the visually obvious decor number of Indian workers and their families and ambience of cultural counterparts such as Chinatown. However, nosey now calling the city home. More than 3,000 around and you’ll fi nd highly rated restaurants such as the main branch of T(10% of the entirety of those living across Japan) (the oldest in the neighborhood), and Spice Magic Calcutta Amudhasurabhi have made Edogawa ward that home, particularly Delhi Dhaba to enjoy great food from across the Indian subcontinent. If you within the Kasai area. With parks aplenty, it's also a want to spice up your own cooking, gather supplies from grocery stores such wonderfully green and peaceful part of town in which as Swagat Indian Bazaar that are packed full of delicious delights at decent to discover a very different side of Tokyo.
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