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Parisian gentleman guide

Continue Sonia Glyn NICHOLSON 30 May 2020 Sonia Glyn NICHOLSON 26 May 2020 Sonia Glyn NICHOLSON 22 May 2020 Sonia Glyn NICHOLSON 20 May 2020 Hugo JACOMET 19 May 2020 Hugo JA COMET 18 Dec 2019 Bernhard ROET'8 Dec 2019 Hugo JACOMET 27 November 2019 Sonia Glyn Nicholson 1 November 2019 Hugo JACOMET 1 October 2019 1 2 3 ... 61 Coming In Life More Gentlemen, It's Our Pleasure to Publish Today Parisian Gentleman's Choice Ready to Wear for 2014 ! This selection covers 39 homes and brands that have been carefully selected over several months, with the valuable input of several employees from the international sartorial scene, a method that is the first in the history of our choice. This edition will be the beginning of many future joint works. It is indeed our hope to continue reuniting through extensive projects such as this one, many different and respected names in this field from established authors and excellent journalists to dedicated bloggers, to create a truly independent and in-depth choice of curator with care and passion and up to date with the latest developments in the ever-changing world of male style. For the 2014 edition of our selection of RTW costumes, Sonia, Greg and I had the privilege of working with five very fine contributors; three French, one finish and one American. First, let's give an honor where the honor is due : G. Bruce Boyer is one of the most respected and erudite writers in the field of masculine style and made us great pleasure delivering reviews of two American homes. Ville Raivio, from the excellent blog Finish KEIKARI, was also a kind enough friend to send us a review to another American house. At the heart of this project, we have two passionate French bloggers: Dirnelli and Paul F, who sent us reviews about no less than 20 houses ! Dirnelli is an established name in the small world of I-Gents. His tumblr DIRNELLI has gradually become a very reliable resource for all and all gentlemen looking for sartorial inspiration. With first-hand knowledge of the long-winded investment in time required to maintain such a consistent activity, I can only applaud the diligence of Dirnelli, which has earned him a significant and passionate readership. Paul F. is a more relaxed supporter of the new sartorial selfie wave. Although his approach is less rigid than that of Dinelli, he is no less serious and knowledgeable. His Tumblr PAUL-LUX is a haven of good taste and elegance, animated by a truly passionate man at the head of a lovingly acquired collection of all things sartorial. The ensembles he represents are often gorgeous, denoting a very sharp sartorial eye. Finally, to give a voice to the younger generation on the very important theme of RTW costumes, we once again opened our columns for our young friends BONNE GUEULE, who kindly reviewed the young and up and French home for us. Prices mentioned in this this are an estimated average, as such prices can vary (sometimes impressively so) between different lines, collections and selected fabrics. In this case, valuations should be a reliable indicator that will help you find your way through this list, which we intended to make a representative of today's market. Without further ceremony, presented in the upstream price order, is the Parisian Gentleman's Choice ready-to-wear costumes for 2014 ! TM LEWIN Still matching the entry-level offer of 200 to 400 th tmlewinshirts.eu By Hugo Jacomet : the costumes offered by English manufacturers, with TM Levin being well in the lead, has always been a fantastic entry-level option in the world of classic male style, especially for the younger generation and for those on a tight budget. lines are indeed very affordable, often reduced to 200 euros during sales, which are almost permanent with new discounts each week. TM Levin's costumes are all made far from Jermyn Street (TM Levin is owned by The Prominent Group, which operates large factories in Asia and India), and almost all are fused - although some models with floating-breasted pieces are available. However, with an average price of 250 euros for a full suit, TM Lewin stays with his main competitor Charles Tyrwhitt - an excellent first serious step in the world of classic men's style. The incisions are classic, the choice of fabric and quality is decent at best, as are a few touches. But at this price you will surely get what you paid for. The question: Decent costumes at a low price, a lot of variety in terms of cuts and fabrics, good customer service. - - : You can visit one of the stores (in the UK) to try on the costume first hand and check your size, even if the online store and return policy is very reliable. SUITSUPPLY Sartorial Revolution 300 to 800 - suitsupply.com Hugo Jacomet : While some may not want to admit it, Suitsupply is a crushing entrepreneurial success and one of the main drivers behind today's small sartorial revolution. By making men's style accessible to almost everyone with fair price offers complete with undeniable flair in their collections and their talent for creating vibrant advertising campaigns, Suitsupply has become a benchmark brand in the crowded sector of affordable male style (with Boggy Milano not too far behind). Suitsupply was created in 2001 in Amsterdam by the young Focke de Jong, who built his strategy on a simple and bold game of installing its first stores in unusual locations, including being on the highway and then located a considerable distance from the main commercial arteries. The idea was to make Suitsupply a destination, not just another store located in the lineup This is a very atypical way of doing business, which very successful as stores located on unusual locations entails much lower rents and maintenance costs, saving money to be focused on creating a vertical approach to the production line (which allows Suitsupply to be in complete control of its products, from buying raw materials depending on sales). This approach allowed the young company to put pressure on the male-style market to a tipping point, offering a huge selection of aggressively priced on the ratio of quality/price, unheard of at the time. By following up with a few hard-hitting advertising campaigns on the internet (accompanied with a series of photography that I personally love, such as Trust suit or Start Smoking campaigns), the Dutch brand would enjoy a dazzling moment with a opening of no less than 50 stores, including 10 in the US and a flagship store on Madison Avenue. With a wide range of costumes sold at a very fair price, including a lot of attention, putting in styling collections that are from good quality fabrics, Suitsupply is an excellent first step (perhaps the best in its price range) to the world of personal elegance, regardless of your age or your financial means. The question is : Lots of style to choose from, good quality construction at a price. - : Slightly (too) short ... house is a trademark, it would seem. Paul F : My first impression was after spending 10 minutes at the Suitsupply store in Brussels was not very good. Disappointment even. I just couldn't find a suit that would suit me. Admittedly, I rarely take help from sellers, probably because I've seen too many incompetent, obsessed with sales figures and without any sense of style. Looking into more detail, I finally found something: a model called HAVANA. No, I don't smoke cigars, but this model seemed to be the only cut that suited me well. It features natural shoulders, a two-wheeled and flat front trousers. I first noticed the SOHO cut, but since I missed swimming classes when I was younger, it's a deal breaker with such a close cut. You have to learn to navigate in the Suitsupply store, if only for the sheer number of cuts on display. Wrong time and try on a few models. The Amsterdam-based company has now expanded to a wide range and its business model is working very well. Suitsupply sources its fabrics in and then sends fabric stocks to China, where the costumes are built. They are then sold either in one of the brand's 50 physical stores or through a great online store (which has the best return policy I've ever seen, since you can return items for free with UPS picking up products right at your door!). The proposed fabrics range from basic to more fashionable. Such it's very likely that many gentleman will find something that Their. Suitsupply is the perfect way to start a quality . Don't blame the brand for its bold advertising, but instead focus on products. There is a true potential here with an honorable quality design. BOGGI Perfect Budget to buy 300 to 850 th boggi.it by Dirnelli : This RTW brand is very impressive because of the wide range and elegant style of its collection, all positioned at very reasonable prices. If I were to recommend only one entry-level brand of penurious sartorialists around the world, Boggy would have it. In this price range its main competitor is Suitsupply, but Boggi has the advantage of being . Almost everything in boggi's plentiful range of products is something you would like to wear if you are a fan of the current Italian style. Part of Boggy's secret lies in the use of many different vendors - such as , Lubiam, Flannnel Bay, , Tagliatore and even Caruso - so there is always something to everyone's taste in each collection. Some costumes are inexpensive and merged, but others are more expensive and fully agitated, using luxurious fabrics like the Tasmanian Super 150's. The question: Excellent value for money on a wide range of suits, and accessories. - - : The quality of construction is not at the highest level and changes are not included in the price. By Paul F : Boggy created a segment where there used to be virtually no - as a medium sentence (think neither zara nor ). They are a good answer to the ever-recurring question that young graduates keep asking on forums around the Internet... Where to find a decent suit below 400 euros for the first job, or even an interview? Boggi, thanks to tight cost control, huge orders and willingly lower margins, can offer a good selection of fabrics from well-known suppliers such as , or Loro Piana in various cuts, which suits most men from the size of the EU 44 to 58. Cuts aren't what you think are fashionable, although they tend to be thinner than most of what's being done today, but you won't find the ridiculously thin straight out of the Slimane era (designer Dior Homme in the 2000s). Those in the know may recognize some references to leading Italian homes such as large lapels, as well as subtle dots like the use of Solaro fabric with red/green reflections on beige . The line is made in some very reputable workshops. Boggi offers a great opportunity to buy a fully agitated suit for about 800 euros. That's how you start a quality wardrobe without breaking your piggy bank! Sellers tend to be much better than the standard you would run in most other stores in the same price range; most clerks are even actually Italian. In Boggy, Navy flannel with removable lightning flannel collars hang next to the navy, gray gray Beige suits in a variety of simple fabrics as well as striped, window or even Prince of Wales fabrics-all at a reasonable price. BEAMS Pleasant Surprise from Japan 300 to 600 beams.co.jp Paul F : The rays turned out to be a really pleasant surprise that I came across during my last visit to Tokyo. This brand has stores all over the country, including at least 30 stores in Tokyo alone. Given the number of seats, I wasn't expecting much more than an extended version of zara, but was surprised to find an extraordinary source of inspiration with a clever selection of products on display, which usually seems to suit the atmosphere of the area where the store is located (from formal to .) Most branded beams merge, hence they are really cheap: 300 euros at full retail price. I bought a window pane check out the gray flannel suit for sale and I don't regret it one bit. Beams offers the best alternative to department store entry-level costumes. However, this means that you will have to actually to Japan or dare to order online without trying to suit at first. And, as you'd expect, their costume sizes tend to be on the smaller side. Beam shops are far from the swollen entry-level stores. They actually have a huge selection and very stylish sales, even if the style of staff work is not always my cup of tea. Beams also offers partial or entirely agitation suits and produced by Ring Jacket or Italian brands such as Lardini or . If you are visiting Japan, make sure to pop into several ray stores. I can guarantee that you will be pleasantly surprised by what you will see. LANDER URKUIO sensation 400 to 750 landerurquijo.com Hugo Jacomet : This young Spanish child love home Instagram/Tumblr/forums/blogs-worldwide, and is one of the most pleasant surprises ever to leave the country not necessarily famous for its contribution to costumes (although Spain has nothing to prove when it comes to .) His success among male-style fans has allowed the brand to expand its native boundaries away from Paris, where it has opened a quirky little shop. Lander Urquijo offers a limited but well-designed line of sports jackets and costumes at intriguing prices. Their clever use of unusual colors is a breath of fresh air and the style of the house is very convincing, as is the quality of the design. A very good option for those looking for colorful costumes with a very smart silhouette. A new wave is on the way and it's a refreshing one... Viva Espana ! By Dirnelli : This Spanish brand deftly picked up where Hackett left off... after Hackett lost his fire. Lander Urquijo offers the classic menswear Brit-with-a-twist, made with Mediterranean scale and eccentricity. Links to Savile Row and styling collections. It's fun to (or patron) a brand that is in the early days of expansion - Lander Urquijo, a man, is a 40-year-old that you can still go and shake hands with when meeting. Lander's family owned a tailoring business in Spain for at least a generation, but the young heir Lander decided to breathe new life into the family business by expanding rtW operations. Brand to keep an eye out for in the coming years. The question : Very affordable prices for modern Neapolitan style are made with provocative choice of fabric. - : Hard to find, as the brand is still quite confidential, with only 3 stores (Madrid, Bilbao and now Paris.) O'CONNELL's Good Suits for a thick figure of 400 to 800 and oconnellsclothing.com Sonia Glyn Nicholson: For the record, O'Connell was started by three Buffalo Bills players in the late 1950s. Soon after, Bernie Huber acquired O'Connells and Hubers have kept the store to this day. O'Connell swears by the style of the 1950s and in addition to their current offerings, still has a significant stock of period costumes for vintage lovers, who are becoming more numerous. The multi-screened brand enjoys a loyal and passionate customer base and has a following that confirms the value of its products... still fashioned in 1950s style without apology (and if you have a thing for patchwork gingham trouser, congratulations, this is your place). Some costumes have more, albeit small, suppression than others, so pay attention to the overall silhouette created by the fit. Specialized in Canada O'Connell costumes have central air vents, unburned jackets and natural shoulders that give a strong performance of pure American style. However, the choice has a more nostalgic class and flair than the average RTW suit or soft tailored ensemble you'll find in the States. We like the high gorge and 3-roll-2 jacket up front on many coats, with the rolled over the top and the fact that none of O'Connells' costumes merge. There are some complaints about long delivery times in specific areas, and so if you have an item sent, ask up front about how long it will take for your suit to arrive. suits start at $495.00. The question is: Well adapted for tall or large gentlemen. Good value for money. - - : Reductions can be wide, and in general, quite ordinary. MACO Caruso from Caruso 500 to 800 No website Dirnelli : Maco is a brand made by Caruso (like its other brand called Raffaele Caruso.) It is very beautifully made, comfortable to wear, and very current of its style. The fabric of choice is beautiful. It's just a shame that this brand is still confidential and not widespread. Perhaps Caruso doesn't want to be too aggressive in competing with the brands that it makes for ... By Hugo Jacomet : On the relevant notes, notes, Maco comes from MA.CO, which stands for the Manifattura Confezioni-name company, before it changed its name to Raffaele Caruso Spa. This small detail will make Maco the original Caruso brand. Unfortunately, if you are planning a trip near Parma or other nearby outlets, chances are that you won't come through a Mako suit. Also note that Pierre Degand in Brussels has developed with Maco a beautiful small line of costumes called Degand by Caruso, priced at about 1000 euros ... - - : It is difficult to find outside Soragna (Parma). EDE and RAVENSCROFT RTW quality from veteran tailoring houses from 500 to 800 th edeandravenscroft.com Greg Jacomet : Founded in 1689, Ede and Ravenscroft is one of the oldest tailoring houses still open in London today. The respected institution from Savile Row, historically known as one of the main suppliers of legal in the UK and more recently for its rental- service (for prom ceremonies.) Ede and Ravenscroft has been offering for a while now a good collection of quality RTW costumes that ranks there with the best in its price range. However, despite a loyal and dedicated customer base, the house is too often ignored in favor of big brands with a large communications budget. The style of the house is very British without being overly formal. The range of semi-agitated suits is well designed, although the models are quite classic, without many risks. Some models (usually those above 500 - 600 euros) come with a spare pair of trousers, which is always a plus. Ede and Ravenscroft also has a very good assortment of sports jackets, from the classic navy to the charming selection of tweed coats, all of which are very compelling. In this area, it seems that E and R has allowed itself to take a few risks, with some relatively unusual parts such as jackets in beautiful autumn colors. The fact that the house survived for so long is no accident. The products offered at RTW have a very nice place of British flair that will satisfy those who appreciate the style. A very good alternative in this price range for the English cut, given that most of the similar cost manageable suits are Italian cut. The question is: Good value for money, Very good tweed, British design good taste - : Some products can fit a little more than what some of you are used to ME GLOSSLINDA New Generation Made in France From 600 to 1000 melindagloss.com Benoit Wojtenka (Bonnegueule.fr) Founded in 2008, Melinda Gloss always had some interesting costume collections, although you won't notice right away, looking at the various lookbooks. The two founders of the brand have an almost obsessive tendency to look for this little thing that will make a difference. Teh And the fabrics are varied, of good taste, and always offer an interesting little twist. Remy is the creative mind behind the brand. A passionate man is always toiling away to improve his jacket collection. Year after year, his style develops - cuts change, shoulder becomes more comfortable, lapels more gracefully ... each brings its own many improvements. In addition to the classic selection of colors (eternal shades of blue and gray), Melinda Gloss offers bolder colors as well. Colors may include a burgundy jacket or a turquoise cotton suit. One of the shopping sides of this house is the choice of that offers such oddities as the corozo buttons, along with such classics as the ever popular horn buttons. Plastic buttons are not an option here. All products are made in France (in Limoges). Jackets are all semi-canvas, and all internal materials such as upholstery or canvas are also made in France. The cuts are modern, and as such, all jackets and trousers can be worn incompatible. The Melinda Gloss jacket always goes very well with a pair of or chinos. A beautiful and modern alternative that is completely made in France... good taste with beautiful fabrics and sold at a reasonable price. RING JACKET Fantastic Value (and Style) for money of 600 to 1000 ringjacket.co.jp Paul F : Ring Jacket is a brand I discovered when I first set foot in a gun shop in Hong Kong (pictured © Ethan and Armory), a famous place among our community. The cut is definitely modern without even feeling fashionable. The fabrics are very good with interesting patterns. The suits and jackets are completely agitating and the touches are more than decent, all at a relatively low price. So I bought one and I fell in love with generous lapels! Not all models have wide lapels, though, so conservative-style supporters don't need to worry. I then bought a few more costumes in Japan, where RJ is actually dated, at prices much lower, between about 700 and 800 , which is very reasonable given the quality of production and fabulous fabric. This is undoubtedly one of my favorite brands as far as value for money goes. Sizes run from EU 42 to 56, so most men have to find something that suits them. In RJ, you tend to find navy suits, double-breasted camel hair coats and now the famous Creamy Waffle Jacket; Check out the last self you can as I would be absolutely unable to describe the unique feeling of this fabric. The main question that remains is the European distribution of the brand: that is, it does not exist. Haki Carmel, a U.S. retailer has started a partnership with the Ring Jacket, but at a fairly high price that's what pay in Asia but hey they have to pay those import taxes right... ? BROOKS BROTHERS Brooks still provides decent costumes at decent prices of 600 to 1,200 brooksbrothers.com G. Bruce Boyer: Brooks Brothers, founded in 1818, is the oldest retail store in the United States. and the first to specialize in men's ready-to-wear. It became a bastion of traditional clothing for the oriental style of business dress in the 19th century, and in the 20th century it became known as the WASP Ivy Style Store of Choice. In the 1950s it gained popularity as the center of Madison Avenue - Grey Flanel - Campus-style clothing in the U.S., and favorably copied abroad. Ironically it was just after World War II that the Brooks family finally sold the firm (1946). The following years were difficult, as Brooks went from one owner to another, each seemingly worse than the first. Finally the store was bought by the Italians in 2001, and makes a great effort to redefine itself with the International Preppy Design Approach, particularly catering for a young professional. There seems to be an attempt to both go back to 1950s roots with a focus on good quality, reasonably priced Oxford button-down shirts and classic ties and other accessories, but also provide a number of new, streamlined silhouettes that drift very far afiled from Ivy style into tailored clothing. It can be said, however, that Brooks stays true to his roots, providing decent clothes at a decent price for a large number of men. Par Hugo Jacomet : I would advise in favor of the line Made in Italy, by far the most interesting in terms of design quality. HACKETT Spearheading Affordable British Style From 600 to 1400 hackett.com Hugo Jacomet : Founded in 1979 by Sir Jeremy Hackett from what was originally a simple thrift store, Hackett became in the 90s one of the main proponents of affordable British-style suits. Hackett's collections were, until the mid-2000s, known for playing with the greatest symbols of Britishness with flair, pleasure, and even some humor (such as their logo, bowl and two . Can you get much more British than ?) Sold by Richemont Group Torreal (Spanish Investment Fund) in 2005, Hackett seems to have lost his own fire with a few years of products that have not been personal. what the brand used to do - although the number of stores around the world has skyrocketed. But despite losing some of the brightness that made it a charm (and success), Hackett remains a very safe choice in its price range. The question : Good value for money, lots of options, some particularly good pieces to be handpicked each season for a sharp eye. - - : Not as charming as it was ra manner, the quality of construction can Better. SAMUELSON AA House 750 to 1200 samuelsohn.com Jeffrey Diduch : Samuelson may not be equal in the value/price formula on the market. With craftsmanship on a relative level with Canali, but at a significantly lower price, this is one of the most underpriced brands around. Running the feuding twin brothers septuagenarian for too long, the company was sold a few years ago to an investment firm that was assembling a new management team, including Arnold Brunt of Silverstone, Darrell Henson (one of the best merchandisers in the business) and Caruso's former quality man. They rejuvenated supply and increased capacity if the plant to solve the current market problems, namely the high Canadian dollar. Over the years, the exchange rate of about $0.65 USD against the Canadian dollar meant that Canadian manufacturers had a huge advantage against their U.S. competitors in the U.S. market, but that advantage was erased. Yet in their favor, however, is the fact that protectionist policies still levy import duties of up to 17% on certain raw materials (cashmere, for example) that Canadian manufacturers don't pay- it's particularly foolish when you consider that there are no more mills producing wool in the U.S., so duties protect anyone while punishing manufacturers. Um. Business considerations aside, Samuelson also produces private label programs for Harry Rosen and Paul Stewart, considered by many to be one of the best men's stores on both sides of the border. Now that they also own Hickey Freeman (sniff) I want to see how they position themselves both brands. PORTS 1961 Clean and clear cut From 800 to 2000 ports1961.com Sonia Glyn Nicholson : With 95 percent of all clothes made in Italy, which Ports describes as artisans, ports 1961 men's collection becomes an interesting choice for RTW costume for a man who loves the traditional look with modern flair. Expect the clean, if not pristine line cuts that form the classic port silhouette, seem to get it right with the right collar fit, and the middle width of the lapels with an attractive lapel noting. But that's not all... Natural shoulders that appear tailored, high button-position, and length of jacket, which is only slightly short in front, however the back of the jacket cut is noticeably short on some models, in the manner of Pop Suit, which can lead to the first time the owner of the suit rediscovered his buttocks. The trousers are streamlined but not hideously thin and the waist cut pants are set close to a natural waist. The silhouette of losing weight with gradual waist suppression is done in good taste. In general, serious work. It would be reasonable to say that designers and manufacturers in ports have some impact of proper tailoring. Origin in Toronto, but now with a flagship store on the famous street Where where The collection was added in 2012, this young Canadian house seems to be succeeding where others have failed, creating a costume that is both action-packed and timeless. The fabrics meanwhile include Loro Piana. It's not hard to find something nice to say about this collection. The costumes are superb and clean cut with fit tuned for sport, with a particularly nice chest draping over a two-legged ensemble. It's a great discovery to follow. The question: Extremely clean silhouettes, gorgeous two-breasted costumes. - : Back-cut jackets may be too short for a non-pop lover costume. What a pity... BOGLIOLI lives without structures from 850 to 1500 boglioli.it from Hugo Jacomet : Ultra-lightweight specialist sports jackets. The Bogleioli brothers have become famous in the last few years with their line of jackets, which feel almost closer to a than to a jacket. Comfort is unparalleled as such you really have to try it to believe it. Fabrics are as light as it gets, jackets have absolutely no structure, and the fabric has a superb Italian feel to it. Be sure to have for those who travel a lot, or have a party to attend by the sea in the summer. Note that the Bogleioli brothers left the company last year, and recently launched a new brand - GIGI - whose first products look extremely promising (soon available in Degand in Brussels). To be continued ... : As comfortable, how comfortable it gets, truly stylish casual chic. - - : Can be expensive. LARDINI the quality of Italian costumes at an affordable price from 850 to 1600 euros lardini.it by Hugo Jacomet : Less famous than most of its competitors, Lardini, nevertheless, one of the greatest manufacturers of quality Italian costumes, with an average output of 1,600 costumes per day. This family factory produces costumes for such famous names as Dolce Gabbana, Ferragamo and , no less. They also sell their own range of very fair quality suits with good Italian flair and good quality designs, complete with a consistent price tag. Good, serious, Italian brand. The question : Serious products, well-assembled, with a simple (but still Italian) style. - : : Almost too easy sometimes. TIMOTHY EVEREST quality RTW with a twist of 900 to 1500 timothyeverest.co.uk/ Hugo Jacomet : Timothy Everest offered with a few years a few small collections RTW compiled by the man himself and made in Portugal, England and even Japan (where Timothy Everest products sell pretty well). The lines are sometimes bold (without going over the top), the fabric is of good quality, and the half canvas design is well made. Thin line Is British with a twist that we love in PG. A: The costumes are well made, with a very British flair that made the house famous. - Very small collections with limited choice. 900 James St 1 pm to 3 pm $1,500,000 According to Hugo Jacomet : Richard James is undoubtedly one of the leaders of the new institution on the series, and one of those who blurred the lines between tailoring and quality ready-to- wear, while brimming with quality. Currently distributed internationally (in places like Barneys in New York and Harrods in London), RJ products are made in Italy with very modern cuts and a creative selection of colors that you rarely see anywhere - from old pink to pale blue and purple, as shown above. The house we like a lot here at PG, for the quality of its products, the cohesive communication strategy it uses (always very creative without being vulgar), and the undeniable style of its latest spring/summer collection, which has some of the most refreshing pieces we've seen in a while. The question is: A very personal style that continues to work better with each passing collection. A lot of guts. - : Short collections. Sometimes there is no choice. RICHARD ANDERSON Savile Rowe rising star from 900 to 1800 richardandersonltd.com Hugo Jacomet : It's been two years since Young Richard himself draws and offers his own collection of classic costumes made in Italy. All the basics of masculine style are respected in his collections, which are available in a selection of discreet fabrics that always fit the product very well. Half of the canvas is also of good quality. Richard Anderson's RTW is quite simply a true quality product, only available (to this day) at No.13 Savile Row, or through the home website. The question : The quality of the production of the classic style cut into good fabrics. Very safe choice. - : Available only in London or online. The right product, the wrong marketing. From 1000 to 1700 palzileri.com by Dirnelli : It's tailoring, not , but you could never guess the never-too-good RTW brand has been so poorly served by its marketing materials and ads. Don't be fooled by their sleek and trendy photos in fashion magazines, or their faux-hip boutiques in bad places such as airport terminals: Pal Seeeri actually makes an amazing costume, but you should try it first to understand why tailoring skills aren't visible through the brand's story. For example, PP is one of the few RTW brands to make pants that are barely agitating at the waist, which is much more comfortable to wear than the tight waist of most RTW pants. The design of their jackets is so light you barely feel it on you, and yet their jackets have a structure and keep well worn. The choice of PP fabrics is always differentiating in subtle ways, and therefore remains original yet wearable. The way the RTW brand chooses its fabrics often says: some brands simply choose expensive fabrics that don't really look good, while the choice of Pal Seelier fabrics is not from the most luxurious beams, but curator and interesting both visually and in hand. Obviously this brand has some people who know what they are doing in terms of hardcore tailoring choices. It is unfortunate that part of the brand's narrative does not get airtime, the real value proposition lay there. The question: Excellent tailoring, styling, fabrics and prices. - - : Marketing is completely wrong-headed compared to the basic value of the brand offering. PAUL STUART Mid-Atlantic East Coast flair 1100 to 1800 paulstuart.com G. Bruce Boyer: Paul Stewart is more upscale in design and price than Brooks. The company's design philosophy is based on a fashionable approach to traditional business and . More mid-Atlantic than the Oriental establishment, more color, and with a slightly sharper look in silhouette tailored clothing, Paul Stewart has always moved a little toward the trendy end of the traditional spectrum. The company's recent addition a few years ago of a new department - called the Phineas Cole Collection - was a very upscale version of its offerings both in price and design. The Phineas Cole line is certainly for a young man who is something of a dandy, and is not afraid of a bolder, more individualistic approach. Over the past few years both the classic Paul Stewart and the new Phineas Cole offerings have taken on pronounced Italian - a British amalgam in which many of the high-quality fabrics are British, the colors Italian, and the styling hybrid of both. The store continues to appeal to the Wall Street financier, well-dressed and slightly brash lawyers, and slightly higher-powered corporate executives. The question: Excellent Italian/British talent, Phineas Cole line is full of personality. Serious product. - : Still hard to find - only three stores (New York and Chicago) and a few selected outlets in Japan. CARUSO Volkswagen Menswear Group from 1100 to 3000 carusomenswear.com by Dirnelli : Volkswagen Audi and Porsche too - but only nuts know or care about it. In addition, Caruso is a massive manufacturer of high quality costumes around the world. It is known to produce for all the best menswear brands worldwide, but the name Caruso flies under the radar as far as most consumers know. You may think that you buy different costumes made in different places, just because the external brand is different, but 7 times out of 10, you just buy a Caruso style suit in different ways to match the home style of each brand (you can check it out by looking at the Caruso trademark technical label, always the same, inside the jacket pocket). It is impressive that they managed to maintain such quality standards despite the increase in demand and production. No other clothing manufacturer has been able to cope with this challenge so far in the history of ready-made clothing - it's worth a tip Caruso's hat on this account alone. The question is: Excellent value for money. The costumes are so well made that even the size up or down your regular size may seem to fit you perfectly. - - : Caruso costume is sold 1 to 4 times its price depending on the brand that sells it. By Paul F: Finally a chance to talk about this wonderful brand that all elegant men should know. But the truth is very few people have heard of it. For an anecdote, I remember talking about Caruso during a golf tournament, and that's what my competitor told me (think 40 something, snobbish voice and attitude, yellow corduroy pants with a green to mimic the colors of the club): But my dear Paul, what is Caruso? I've never heard of it, and I know a lot about costumes. I only wear Smalto. Ready to wear though, because the time, the weariness they take for made to measure the order is annoying. Funny thing to say (still makes me smile to this day)... because Caruso actually makes ready to wear the Smalto collection. They also do Sifonelli and Hartwood. It is definitely one of the best manufacturers out there. However, not all Caruso costumes are equal - there are different lines. But as they say, I've never come across a Caruso costume that disappointed me. The fully agitated line is great and quite light too, with very decent touches and usually an outstanding fit. Prices for RTW range from 1,000 to 3,000 euros. Some retailers may get a little greedy with margins, but remember that different lines also mean more options. I still vividly remember Smalto's two-breasted cashmere , which was just outstanding. This was done by Caruso, and fortunately not in my size, as his asking price was not what I would have called reasonable for me at the time... HARTWOOD Great French brand that deserves more attention from 1200 to 1800 hartwoodparis.com by Dirnelli : Hartwood is another excellent Caruso made suit, but represents even more value for money as the Hartwood brand is not global enough to justify a hefty price premium. In fact, Hartwood may be one of the least expensive Caruso costumes available on the market. This in itself is worth some attention. In addition, Hartwood uses only Loro Piana for all its fabric choices, for better or for worse, as Loro Piana fabrics are usually delicate (but the rtW brand can do a lot worse than all of its collections made entirely of Loro Piana fabrics, so we won't blame them there). Hartwood has already well appreciated the costume connoisseurs in France, but the brand probably now deserves more international visibility as the collection is always very attractive season after season. The most expensive Caruso suit on the market; handmade Milanese loops at all - Loro Piana fabrics exclusively, which can be delicate at times. RALPH LAUREN Storybook Stuff 1200 to 1600 (Black Label), 4000 (Purple Label) Label) Sonia Glyn Nicholson: With a signature Gatsby style that is easy to learn, over the past few years have seen Ralph Lauren Purple Label transform into eye candy suits, with a toned-down but still sharply spiced 2014 collection. While the less expensive Black Label (BL) gets its fair share of attention, part of the BL line is miserable monochrome, with a lighter class fabric and fit. The bright spot for BL includes their Italian cut with wider shoulders and rope sleeves, which gives a traditional silhouette. Both black and purple labels earn credit for creating a more defined leverage than most American brands. Purple Label, often made of strong cashmere and silk and made by Caruso in Italy, builds up the elegance factor with smaller fabrics and a more refined silhouette. A lot of hand runs in the RTW line, making it one of the most impressive RTW selections out there. And while you may not know the many men who own the Ralph Lauren Purple Costume label, few can deny that these costumes are aesthetically beautiful and that Purple Label itself amps up the overall image of Ralph Lauren. The look of the Purple Label costume has been so widely advertised both online and in magazine spreads that several other brands are so easily recognized by the simple look of a costume ensemble. Buying a PL suit requires a certain eye to avoid appearing as if you have stripped the window of a dummy to dress yourself or grabbed the entire warehouse showcase. As for the level 3 polo Ralph Lauren Blue Label-Dirnelli loves the semi-canvas garrison, made by , and defines the costume as one of his best finds. It seems RL has acknowledged that their clothes may be too recognizable, and the latest Purple Label 2014 offering was varied to include a modern deco style and a lovely-looking Drake costume that has a circa-1800 flair, complete with a vest. The cost of the odd jacket (except for the more affordable linen jacket) will run about $4,000 USD, with a suit costing $5,000. Steep prices for those who care about the cost ... but the price itself does not stop anyone from looking and admiring the work of Ralph Lauren. We like the Italian cut BL Twill Wool suit (item #326136) retail about $2,000 with a close silhouette, high notch, double vents, peak seams and flat front trousers with adjustable straps. Another option is a Black Label tuxedo at $1,700, but double check the tuxedo jacket shoulder line from the side of the neck to the tip of the shoulder to make sure it's rumple-free and built to your standards. In: Safe bet. Good silhouette, including a lot of hand trimming with a quality look and feeling. - - : Outrageous prices, the product is sometimes too recognizable. CANALI Unsung Menswear Hero From 1200 to 1800 Hugo Jacomet : For those of you who read reads PG reader sent us a contribution to Canali a few years ago : CANALI PG. By Dirnelli : Why doesn't this brand get the internet buzz it deserves? The Canali suit meets all the requirements of the clothing enthusiast: full agitation, large cuts and excellent choice of fabric (although often quite delicate.) Of course, it is a mass production of clothing. But for something mass- produced to feel so good when you wear it, it just proves that Made in Italy still stands for something today: the quality of RTW. Canali is one of the few brands to have A) own their factory, and B) use the factory solely for their own collections. Canali can certainly earn extra income if they want to use their factory to make costumes for other luxury brands - like most other Italian costume brands that own factories - but instead Canali is exclusive in everything they do, even down to some fabrics that are woven exclusively for Canali. As a result, the feeling of wearing a Canali costume is unique, ranking there with the best of handmade Italian costume brands. The question is: Very elegant, modern, well made and comfortable costume. - - : Mostly delicate fabrics. CORNELIANI Good quality suits, widely distributed from 1200 to 1800 corneliani.com by Dirnelli : In the same price range, Corneliani and Canali have many points in common: owning your own factory, current Italian style, lots of handmade steps and great comfort. The main difference between Canali and Corneliani is that Corneliani gets more online advertising, and that they make costumes for others, such as Ralph Lauren. Also, Corneliane has some fabric choices that are a little more nouveau rich, unfortunately. Still a good option in this price range however. The question is: Great costumes with lots of steps done by hand. - : Some unsuccessful choice of fabric at times. HUSBANDS Parisian Nugget 1350 to 1700 husbands-paris.com Greg Jacomet : For those of you who read French, here's a review we posted about a year ago : HUSBANDS PAR PG. By Paul F : A young French house produced beautiful costumes made in Italy, in the top shelf of fabric with a modern cut: Finally! This was my first thought when I read an article by a Parisian gentleman praising this (small, for now at least...) brand. I like a bee, I like to wander and discover new things, especially when this time, they do not end with i (Brioni, Canali, Corneliali, Pal Seeleri, etc.). I couldn't bring anything with me, so I visited them. Nicolas, the owner and founder, is not the son of a or a cutter; he is a man who gave up his former job to pursue his dream and passion for all things sartorial - with a very honest desire to see more well-dressed men out there. But I think I lost my train of thought, where was I ...? Oh yes! Exceptional fabrics (Fox Brothers that usually cost a fortune), handmade milanese loop loops Jessica de Hodi, and the cuts that fit me like a immediately. I can honestly say that I spent a lot of time in a small Parisian store, seeing how I wear the EU 44-46, which makes it a hassle to find a decent version of RTW that suits me. But my husbands have my back. The house does not make seasonal collections, as Nicolas firmly believes in the concept of timeless elegance. His choice is spot-on though: a two-breasted wool and cashmere coat, a blue Fresco suit, a navy flannel suit with chalk stripes, a gun club tweed sports coat, three pieces of linen suit for summer, etc. Eternal knights of British elegance, be careful! You can step on a slim fit and narrower , but nothing that should prevent you from considering this house. RAVASOLO The unsung hero of Italian tailoring from 1550 to 2350 ravazzolo.com by Dirnelli : No one on the Internet is buzzing about this great brand RTW, another unsung hero of Italian costume making. The price is steep, but the product is very good, and is recognized for its quality by true connoisseurs. No frills, very classic, almost to the point of being sterile. Always an original selection of fabrics that can be amazed or missed. It can be amazing to see such inequality in the choice of fabric as sometimes it is almost as if they have chosen their fabric at random. The question is: Classic, well made, no mistakes in styling or tailoring. - : Tissue choices can be completely wrong sometimes. CIFONELLI Beautiful but little in common with the legendary bespoke house cut from 1850 to 2500 cifonelli.com by Dirnelli : Cifonelli offers a superb line of RTW made by Caruso, using large fabrics made to the highest standards of production of Caruso, labeled as the Golden Finish. Perhaps the RTW Cifonelli line is the perfect compromise for penurious sartorialists who are not ready to make the jump in Cifonelli's order. The RTW line offers big cuts, great construction, and great value for money (especially during sales.) However, keep in mind that the style and cut of the RTW line is different from the Cifonelli order. The question is: A great way to dip your eyes in the waters of Cifonelli without breaking your piggy bank. - - : RTW style is different from a customized cut. FRANCESCO SMALTO The great name of the Parisian order and ready to wear from 1850 to 2800 - smalto.com Hugo Jacomet : Undoubtedly one of the greatest names in luxury RTW - whose founder and former owner was one of the few master to successfully make the transition between traditional order and quality RTW once the 60s ended. With the RTW line made in Caruso, the Smalto suit is always a safe bet. Fit and draping almost always spot on, and suits be made to have a very close fit. A wonderful work that stay relevant year after year (even if some fabric variants are questionable). The famous Smalto clipping, available on RTW Smalto costumes, is the direct heir to the legendary Camps notch (Francesco Smalto was a student of Camps) and one of the most famous trademarks of French tailoring. Every fan should have a costume with one such not a cut. According to Dirnelli : fish lapel is a trademark of Parisian bespoke tailoring, but it is extremely rare to find it in RTW costumes. Fortunately, Smalto offers an RTW model that has this classic style (it's even its most famous signature feature). This fact in itself makes their RTW line go to their destination for those interested in traditional French tailoring. RTW costumes Caruso made, so no frills, although curious that they are softer and structured than what Caruso does for most other brands. Some of Smalto's RTW fabric choices are questionable however (like too many shiny fabrics). The trademark 5-button takes a while to get used to (Tom Ford does it too), but Smalto's unique square buttons on your jackets are a stroke of genius - you have to see it to believe it because no one ever expected the square buttons to actually look good. up to the superb handmade Milanese default on all costumes, as many luxury BRANDS RTW do not offer this detail, mysteriously. The question: Nice cuts, always a safe choice. A classic lapel made of fishmouth, a trademark of Parisian custom-made production - : Some very bright fabrics in each collection ... ERMENEGILDO SEGNA Wonderful costumes for those who are ready to browse from 1950 to 2800 - .com Sonia Glyn Nicholson : A Short Story: The Watchmaker by Profession, Ermenegildo Segna changing professions to become a wool weaver in 1852. Years later, his youngest child, also named Ermenegildo, will expand the business and create Lanificio Segna Wool Mill in 1910 in Trivero at the foot of Biella. Early on, a progressive focus is on the source of natural fibers directly from their country of origin to make the fabrics of segna. The next generation, sons Angelo and Aldo, open an RTW menswear factory built from segna fabrics in Novara, Italy, in 1968. - A small education in order when considering Emenegildo Segna, one of the best RTW lines available. Without wasting time, go straight to the quality sign and look for the line E. zegna or Couture (since the line I carries more sports theme). Milano and the more expensive Trofero Couture are available in both A and B fabric lines and are beautiful in terms of fit and aesthetics. Less success was found with the rum model, with complaints about the square . The costumes made at the main factory in Switzerland for RTW is a premium catch, compared to another costumes made in Spain or just over the border in Italy (this is not necessarily true for MTM). So, ask questions and read for better chances of scoring a great RTW suit. For a basic suit with a full and high-quality fabric, expect to spend just over 2,000 euros, with the Trofero Couture line providing a more detailed hand-finished finish with a downside is the price point, which can be up to 50 percent more than Milano. The price reduction is not unheard of, so if you see the right E Segna or Couture suit hovering below the prices mentioned here will definitely make a try on. As for the quality of the fabric, at the last check, Sack and Barney tend to carry lines of fabric B, with Neiman Marcus offering an A and B line of fabric. Consider (with caution) the size is smaller than you normally wear as sizes sometimes, but don't always work more than the norm. Look at the shoulder fit to notice how far past your natural shoulder line that the fabric expands. You will find a lot of hand-made finishes on the costumes of the aforementioned, which are built with a lovely fabric that is also woven by Segna. With the costumes discussed here, you'll find it hard to find a review of Segna that isn't positive. The question : The high quality of classic costumes is worth the effort to explore - - : Prices that can vary wildly. Huge quality gaps between different price ranges. Excellent brand, but that you need to navigate carefully. SARTORIA PARTENEPEA Amazing Neapolitan RTW From 2000 to 2700 sartoriapartenopea.it from Dirnelli : Just awesome. Only distributed (in Paris) on old England back in time. I will always regret that I woke up too late to this brand and did not take full advantage of the stock up when Old England went out of business. SP has an absolutely amazing trademark Neapolitan cut, completely inspired by Kiton, where its founders worked. And, they improved on the original-on one-third of the original price. The question : Excellent style and fit and fabric, a great Neapolitan brand RTW. - : Lack of distribution and still a relatively high price. ISAIA Two-breasted WOW Factor From 2000 to 3000 and isaia.it Sonia Glyn Nicholson : A Short Story: Enrico Isaiah opened a small draper shop in Naples in 1920, where he sold a fabric of Neapolitan tailors selected from the best Italian and English mills. In 1957, the company was moved near Naples to a tailor-town called Casalnuovo with 15,000 residents listing their profession as tailors. Enrico, along with his sons Enrico Jr., Corrado and Rosario later opened a workshop next to the draper shop with the help of some of the city's masters to eventually bring Neopolitan tailoring to the world. -- Gianluca Isaiah Napoli's main line leaves a good impression, especially with a two-breasted suit selection, as evidenced by the number of online back orders for their DBs. The company has a well-known experience for avant-garde fabric design, texture and color combinations. This suit gives a nice silhouette quite close to the body, but not too extreme, and only some models favor a more relaxed shape. The price for the Super 120 looks like about 2,300 euros per suit, but some collections like the AW13 has a nice style with a much lower price, although I can't find first-hand reviews of AW13 other than aesthetic approval. Discounts are not unheard of, so keep your eyes open. Bottom line, Gianluca Napoli (with a notable lack of the word Isaiah in the title) receives soft reviews with little excitement while the top line, Enrico Isaiah is almost entirely handmade, but relatively unknown. The fabric of the main collection is cut by hand, and the costumes are made with the full quality of the canvas design with a combination of machine sewing and a good amount of hand trim. The silhouette is slightly elongated and includes a full, rounded chest, high crotches and soft shoulders that are sewn with a slight tilt back that prevents the appearance of a downed posture. The collar is cut at a 60-degree angle, keeping the gaps to a minimum. Some models have collars that appear too low height, with the entire shirt collar presents itself under the collar of the jacket ... not my favorite look, but understandable for men who would like to pop the back of their collared jackets and thus may prefer a low build collar set. ISAIA costumes are made of good fabric, including high-end Australian Merino wool, from time to time using natural sheep hair colors instead of staining fabric... and at other times using beautiful plant dyes for their fabrics. These lovely fabrics definitely amp up the look of their costumes. A hint of dandyism plays into Isaia designs, which is appealing to many men. Single-breasted jackets are attractive but less memorable with a very standard lapel and an unusual back 7 cutout shape that is up to you to either love or dislike. However, add a vest without a lapel in one breasted jacket, and you have a much better story in terms of creating a strong ensemble. The question : Great DB suit main line, good design design and stylistic fabric / combination - - - : Note the collar collar height Superb, but almost impossible to find ... under its own label From 2000 to 5000 By Hugo Jacomet : Belvest - an amazing manufacturer of suits and jackets, the main part of the business of which is to make costumes for the biggest name in luxury (Herm's, Vuitton, ), which are then sold, of course, at very luxurious prices... The house also releases its own collection, two each year, to be exact, under its own name. Some of the models said are some of the most beautiful parts I put my eye on in RTW (only Attolini can compare). The only one is that Belvest costumes are essentially impossible to find. This may be, a la Mako Caruso, a deliberate choice from a company not to directly compete with the homes it operates (which retail at a much higher price). A sublime product in every possible way. The best of what Italy has to offer in the RTW line. In: Excellent product. - - : : Almost impossible to find. H. HUNTSMAN and SONS Excellent traditional RTW From 2200 to 3100 - h-huntsman.com Hugo Giaccomet : Despite the turbulent history and impressive track record of idiosyncratic former owners, Huntsman and Sons is one of Savile Row's most iconic houses. Their RTW line is formidable, with exclusive tweeds of the highest quality. The cut of the house is famous among connoisseurs of beautiful costumes; dense fit, one button, and very high . Wearing a Huntsman coat will make you stand proud and pay attention. You can't help him, it's always been like that. Everyone should consider the house at one time or another, although the exceptionally high price is a serious obstacle ... Beautifully done. - - : Huntsman is known to be the most expensive house on the row, and their RTW line lives up to that reputation. LORO PIANA From luxury fabrics to luxury RTW from 2200 to 3500 and loropiana.com Paul F : When you think Loro Piana, you think luxury fabric... cashmere, of course, but also Vikuna (whose world production is almost exclusively for Loro Piana), which leads to outrageous prices for outrageously good fabric. But Loro Piana is also engaged in retail, which is an interesting recent event, especially given the historical emphasis of LP on strict fabric manufacturing. Luxury fabric house went into the retail business because they recognized that it is a booming sector, which is something LVMH obviously noticed as well when they bought Loro Piana in 2013 for a ridiculous amount. Loro Piana is engaged in an exceptional multi-strike. I myself own a few cashmere pullovers, a baby cashmere park, and a few jackets of significant design quality, easily on par with what other top-line Italian craft houses. Loops usually remain undone in order to provide greater freedom in setting up the product to fit the customer. The agitation is very easy - one of my cashmere jackets is pure bliss to wear in winter with a turtleneck sweater from the same house. It is, however, a bit of a challenge to find Loro Piana's signature style in the cuts, apart from the usual wide lapels, which can indeed be quite distinctive. The colors used and their abundant variations and shades are all striking; Loro Piana catalogs are always nicely skimmed through, as they have many great photos with tasteful color arrangement offerings. The question : Exceptional fabrics, beautifully made products, lungs and Agitation - : Dear LIVERANO and LIVERANO The most Japanese of Florentine houses from 2500 to 3500 and liverano.com Paul F : I visited the store Liverano during a 3-day stay in . I didn't plan on going there as I already had a busy sightseeing schedule already, as well as a few meetings with other houses. But as I wandered the streets of beautiful Florence, I happened upon the store, so I had no choice but to enter (again, I swear it wasn't planned). So I started walking. Much to my surprise, the house also offers ready to wear with shirts, ties, coats, suits, sports coats and so on, on top of their bespoke operation. I met Takahiro Osaka, whom you've probably already seen on the Internet. As you would expect from a Japanese gentleman, he was very polite, helpful and stylish: classic with a twist. Discussing with Osaka-san, he invited me to try on a sports coat on a navy mural. I replied (a little rudely) that I doubt very much that he had my size in the store (EU 44-46). But it actually did and it was only 2 cm to let loose from the waist to make this sporty coat absolutely perfect for me. Master Liverano left his studio to make the necessary adjustments. Not a word from him, just muttering and checking to see if everything is okay. Obviously he was focused on what he was doing. I'd be interested to discuss a bit, but I think it's already been busy and I'm not a bespoke customer, it might not have helped. Don't get me wrong, he wasn't impolite or unfriendly, just very professional and focused. But back to that sports coat. Simply put: I love it. It's one of my top 3 and I own quite a few pieces. It's perfect, and my Roman tailor (NB: Andrea Luparelli of Sartoria Ripense, check out the PG archives if you want to know more about it) told me: What is this jacket? It's beautiful.' I can tell you; I really love Andrea, but he won't tell anyone he likes something if he doesn't. He's got a sharp eye. Lverano's RTW is beautifully made isaIA. Several lines and finishes are available on ISAIA, but I really think Liverano has chosen the highest quality line possible. If you are in the market for the Florentine elegance piece, then you may have found your home. TOM FORD These costumes carry a certain intrigue, which is hard not to like (even if only a little) from 3000 to 5000 and tomford.com Sonia Glyn Nicholson : Texas-born Thomas Carlyle Tom Ford, an American fashion designer and filmmaker known for his turn in 1997 (which was acquired by Yves Saint Laurent in 1999) and for striking out on his own in New York with the creation of Tom's label in the 2006 partnership with Ford. Known for his sexual take on the sixties and silhouette, his costume designs internationally recognized for the near flair that Signature cut with a clever pattern of fabric and color combinations. In January 2013, Ford finally presented its men's collection RTW in London, which is an important milestone for the brand and its reputation. In 2012, O'Connor's costume ($3,500), featured in the James Bond film Skyfall, is one of his most famous costume designs. Made with a smaller lapel and straight leg pants and close and gradual waist suppression, the ensemble channels a strong Sixties vibe. However, other costumes have generous lapels, and standard width pants with a more European flair, as there is no shortage of variety here. Tom Ford's with its alluring bow ties is also an enticing choice for evening wear with rich colors and patterns and an elegant fit abound. With sports fit restrictions, period designs, and a serious price tag, a Tom Ford RTW suit can create very good emotions, with some of the cleanest breasts and sharp body lines available on the RTW market. The handmade Milanese lapel loops are exquisite, but the front jacket loops the machine are made. On the other hand, there are some light collar-tearing issues on multiple suits and sometimes uneven shoulder lines (followed by the side of the neck to the tip of the shoulder) on others, but once formed for that matter, these traps can be avoided if you know what to look for while trying on, and choose a suit with the right fit for your body. Also, the collar coats on several Tom Ford models are set very low, exposing the entire collar of the shirt, which bothers me to some extent. But then again, if you know to look for a problem, you can navigate it by selecting the cut that is preferred. Chris Evans debuted a beautiful 70s style Tom Ford three-piece suit ($3,950.00) with a textbook fit, and a nice above trouser waist line with an attractive, widely tested olive checkered fabric that will tempt even the most discriminatory fans (although I'm not a fan of contrasting lapel button-hole colors). Tom Ford offers two types of seizures, Base A and Base B. Base for a man with a middle body and a base B cut for a (very) athletic body. Ford has combined some of the best qualities of Italian tailoring (the signature barchett breast pocket with a rounded angle) and English tailoring (quality finish). There is a light wadding in the shoulder, but still a formidable shoulder presentation. The piercing pad is made by the machine, but under the collar made a self-build, which was cut down and finished by hand. These costumes carry a certain intrigue that is hard not to understand. The question : Very clean breasts and overall shape, Milanese loop, strong statement of style. - - - Dear, watch out for the occasional collar gap or shoulder line issue. Work often. OXXFORD handmade in Chicago From 3200 to 5000 oxxfordclothes.com Ville Ravio : Oxxford is different. In the time as most most Offering off-the-peg suits to save time by using machines on long, hidden seams, this is an old factory security from Chicago, from all places, firmly states: Always be true to quality. For Oxxford, this means laborious hand sewing and those little details that are best felt and seen rather than read. As an example, they do make handmade soft collars and lapels that take hours to create, and are not sewn just for marketing or because it can be done. Tailors believe that these stages produce a better fit around the neck and chest, and a more pronounced roll on the reverses. The hinges are made of silk on both sides of the fabric to create a more durable detail. All of this comes with a price tag: Oxxford suits retail at about $4,000, and are only available in the U.S. through retailers and one flagship store manufacturer in New York. Retailers choose items for the models on offer. The MTM program offers endless options regarding parts, fabrics and cuts for the person who cares. Oxxford is the American answer for truly dressing up. The question is: Genuine quality, many handmade operations. - - : Very conservative and expensive. Exceptional fabrics, classic cuts at a very high price of 3800 to 7000 and stefanoricci.it by Dirnelli : Another stratospheric price of the Italian brand RTW, along with Kiton and Brioni. Ricci cuts are very classic, more Roman like Brioni. And like Brioni, Ricci has chosen very expensive fabrics that aren't actually the most visually pleasing often. Ricci's costumes feel very light to wear, bigger than Brioni, but to a lesser extent than Keaton. I think you can see where it's headed - Ricci belongs at the same price and hasn't made categories like Brioni, Kiton and Attolini, but it's just a little less known than the other three. It's probably only a matter of time before they get the same attention. The question : Beautifully made costumes in luxurious materials - : Some fabrics are too bright, and styling very very classic BRIONI One of the greatest names in Roman tailoring from 4000 to 7000 brioni.com Paul F : Brioni, instantly reminds me of ... Bond, James Bond. Agent 007 had many tailors, including some big names from the line and others such as Tom Ford. But there was a period of Brioni, and it did not bring Her Majesty's agent any disservice... Brioni also rings the bell when it comes to outstanding production and detail. Another thing, maybe the price, is a little exaggerated if you ask me, but apparently love is blind, so you may just not see the price until it's too late, that is when your wife throws a frying pan at you while checking your credit card statement. Brioni is definitely one of the best RTW brands out there. Enter their shop and you know what I mean. Wearing Brioni brings you as close as it gets on the actual order, since the brand applies similar processes during production. By now, you probably think I have a lot of these costumes. I do not. Two reasons are basically price and size. I wear a small 46 EU (36 US) and Brioni are not targeted at people my size apparently, or maybe only in Tokyo if they are adapted to the country's standards. But let's be fair, if you have what it takes into your bank account, go get a license to kill and then enter the poker tournament a la Casino Royale at carlsbad Grand Hotel Pupp. The question : Cuts, fabrics and overall quality is striking ... - : : ... But so is the price. KITON Great cuts, amazing fabrics, fantastic finish details and outrageous prices from 4500 to 8000 and kiton.it by Hugo Jacomet : Some say about Keaton that this is the pinnacle of international RTW. Others say their prices are scandalously high. Regardless of the party (if any or both) you find yourself on, you can't deny that Keaton leaves no one indifferent. Cash problems put off, Keaton offers costumes that are some of the most beautiful and luxurious in the world. Made in a stunning manufacturing facility near Naples that employs up to 330 tailors who produce a mind of 200,000 fully handmade suits a year, Kiton's production is known for its high prices and for its choice of fabrics... probably the most exclusive and quality on earth. There is no denying the extreme quality of Kiton products in all their bright glory. The very madness of Modus Operandi Keaton materializes in this crazy factory that every style fanatic should visit at least once in his life. However, once again, it is impossible to mention Kiton without asking their pricing policy, which is a very valid question. How can an RTW costume cost more than a true order in the most famous and revered homes on the planet? To which Keaton replies that they are dealing with a custom. To which I would like to reply that it is still RTW, albeit the highest order in all possible respects, and nicely adjusted for the cutomer. To be perfectly honest, Kiton's suit, after adjustment, feels almost like a bona fide bespoke suit (as I've experienced several times first hand), but without waiting time, installation sessions, and discussions with the master tailor. For some, this is a positive thing; Kiton delays are much shorter than ordering and customer service is absolutely excellent. But for others, yours is really included, it's a disadvantage as I truly believe that waiting time, installation sessions and discussions with tailors is a fantastic experience. It all comes down to your personal style (and your finances). Also noteworthy is the Sartorio line, which is a light version of Kiton products with some machine-made operations and fabrics that are less exclusive than the main line. The price tag is still high for the secondary line (about 3,500 euros). In: Extreme Extreme Very good service. - - : Stratospheric prices, (understandably) difficult to justify for a traditional clientele. ATTOLINI Another Mount Everest Neapolitan tailoring of 4500 to 8000 cesareattolini.com by Dirnelli : Cesare Attolini is one of those luxury handmade RTW brands like Kiton and Brioni that actually sells at a higher price than the bespoke costume. Of these three stratospherically priced brands, Attolini is perhaps the most beautiful, and one that feels nice to wear. The remarkable handmade design and Attolini topline details are on par with the order, which can explain the high retail price. The Attolini costume style is the most wonderful example, in RTW, of a wide lapel, a high gorge, a natural shoulder and a 3 roll- 2 look that you can only usually find in a modern Italian order. It's as if Attolini took all the items from the perfect Neapolitan bespoke suit and made them available as ANW. The question : Amazing modern Italian style that is hard to find outside of ordering. - - : Stratospheric prices. EPILOGUE You may have noticed the absence in this selection of houses that we love, like Mark Guyot, who, for a while now, works exclusively on his beautiful made-to-measure collection. His name, of course, will appear in our choice of MTM. The same story for the beautiful products of La Vera Sartoria Napoletana. We hope that the review of this election, which took a lot of work for all involved, will assist in your search for personal elegance. Hello, HUGO. Hugo.

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