Why Was There No Fashion in Mao's China?
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Research on Chinese Influence on Western Fashion Based on Fashion Magazine from 1970 to 1979
Asian Social Science; Vol. 16, No. 2; 2020 ISSN 1911-2017 E-ISSN 1911-2025 Published by Canadian Center of Science and Education Research on Chinese Influence on Western Fashion Based on Fashion Magazine from 1970 to 1979 Yuru Ma 1 & Xiangyang Bian1 1 Fashion & Art Design Institute, Donghua University, Shanghai, China Correspondence: Xiangyang Bian, Fashion & Art Design Institute, Donghua University, 1882 West Yan’an Road, Changning District, Shanghai, China. Tel: 137-0171-5417. E-mail: [email protected] Received: November 28, 2019 Accepted: December 28, 2019 Online Published: January 31, 2020 doi:10.5539/ass.v16n2p11 URL: https://doi.org/10.5539/ass.v16n2p11 Abstract The decade of 1970s was a peak of Chinese influence on Western fashion. This article was intended to reveal the categories and design characteristics of Chinese-influenced clothing with classified statistical method based on collecting a total of 295 sets of designs presented during 1970-1979 from four fashion magazines. The underlying reasons for the popularity of Chinese-influenced clothing on western fashion were also analyzed and summarized. The research results showed that the Chinese-influenced clothing included three categories: outdoor daily clothes, indoor home wears and evening dresses, presenting neutral, romantic and luxury respectively. The popularity of Chinese-influenced clothing was mainly a result of some national and international factors, including anti-fashion aesthetics in the western society, the normalization of Sino-American relation and the development of Hong Kong trade. Keywords: China, dress, history, design, western Chinoiserie was originated from French when the maritime trade developed between China and France in 16th century. -
From" Morning Sun" To" Though I Was Dead": the Image of Song Binbin in the "August Fifth Incident"
From" Morning Sun" to" Though I Was Dead": The Image of Song Binbin in the "August Fifth Incident" Wei-li Wu, Taipei College of Maritime Technology, Taiwan The Asian Conference on Film & Documentary 2016 Official Conference Proceedings Abstract This year is the fiftieth anniversary of the outbreak of the Chinese Cultural Revolution. On August 5, 1966, Bian Zhongyun, the deputy principal at the girls High School Attached to Beijing Normal University, was beaten to death by the students struggling against her. She was the first teacher killed in Beijing during the Cultural Revolution and her death had established the “violence” nature of the Cultural Revolution. After the Cultural Revolution, the reminiscences, papers, and comments related to the “August Fifth Incident” were gradually introduced, but with all blames pointing to the student leader of that school, Song Binbin – the one who had pinned a red band on Mao Zedong's arm. It was not until 2003 when the American director, Carma Hinton filmed the Morning Sun that Song Binbin broke her silence to defend herself. However, voices of attacks came hot on the heels of her defense. In 2006, in Though I Am Gone, a documentary filmed by the Chinese director Hu Jie, the responsibility was once again laid on Song Binbin through the use of images. Due to the differences in perception between the two sides, this paper subjects these two documentaries to textual analysis, supplementing it with relevant literature and other information, to objectively outline the two different images of Song Binbin in the “August Fifth Incident” as perceived by people and their justice. -
Traditional Chinese Clothing: Costumes, Adornments & Culture; 9781592650194; 78 Pages; Shaorong Yang; Long River Press, 2004
2004; Traditional Chinese Clothing: Costumes, Adornments & Culture; 9781592650194; 78 pages; Shaorong Yang; Long River Press, 2004 Traditional Chinese Clothing: Costumes, Adornments & Culture Chinese Textiles Historic English Costumes and How to Make Them English Costume from the Seventeenth Through the Nineteenth Centuries Traditional Chinese costumes ä¸å›½ä¼ 统æœé¥° Costumes of the Greeks and Romans Ert 's Fashion Designs Nineteenth-century Costume and Fashion, Volume 6 The clothing materials were exquisite, the structure was natural, graceful and elegant, and adornments were splendid. 15  Women's dress and personal adornments of the Tang Dynasty were outstanding in China's history. Chinese Cheongsam  The cheongsam, or Qipao in Chinese, is evolved from a kind of ancient clothing of Manchu ethnic minority. In ancient times, it generally referred to long gowns worn by the people of Manchuria, Mongolia.  In the early years of the Qing Dynasty (16441911), long gowns featured collarless, narrow sleeves in the shape of a horse's hoof, buttons down the left front, four slits and a fitting waist. For thousands of years, traditional Chinese family structure was strictly patriarchal, with the father or eldest male as the head of the household as well as provider and guide. Women had little power in the family system, and the patriarch held absolute authority. Both tradition and laws upheld this patriarchal structure. Yang, Shaorong. "Traditional Chinese clothing: Costumes, Adornments & Culture." Long River Press, 2004. (Aug. The basic features of traditional Chinese clothing are cross-collar, wrapping the right lapel over the left and tying with sash. -
Cultural Reviews
CULTURAL REVIEWS Bian Zhongyun: lived. Given its proximity to the central government and State Council, as well as its long-standing reputation for A Revolution’s First Blood excellence, the Attached Girls’ School was inevitably By Wang Youqin attended by many daughters of China’s top leaders. The senseless death of a school teacher set the tone for Mao At that time, entry to all secondary schools required Zedong’s 10-year reign of terror, the Cultural Revolution. passing city-wide examinations for both middle and high school. Prior to the Cultural Revolution, however, Bian Zhongyun was born in 1916 in Wuwei, Anhei examination results were not the sole criteria for entry. Province. Her father worked his way up from a strug - In the autumn of 1965, shortly before the Cultural Rev - gling apprentice in a private bank to the wealthy and olution began, half of the students at the Attached Girls’ socially prominent owner of his own private bank. After School were the daughters or relatives of senior govern - Bian Zhongyun graduated from high school in 1937, her ment officials. This element became an important fac - plans to enter college were interrupted by China’s war tor leading to Bian Zhongyun’s death. with Japan, and she participated in the resistance effort in Changsha. She was finally able to attend college in The sequence of events resulting in Bian Zhongyun’s 1941, and became a member of the Communist Party of death began on June 1, 1966. On that evening, the China (CPC) in the same year. She graduated in 1945 China Central People’s Broadcasting Network broad - and then joined her husband, Wang Jingyao (who had casted the contents of what Mao Zedong referred to as studied with her in college), in the Party-controlled area “China’s first Marxist-Leninist big-character poster,” of China. -
Clothing and Post-Mao Reforms: the Tutoring Role of Chinese Fashion Magazines, 1980-1986
CLOTHING AND POST-MAO REFORMS: THE TUTORING ROLE OF CHINESE FASHION MAGAZINES, 1980-1986. by Rhea V. Low B.A., The University of British Columbia, 2000 A THESIS SUBMITTED IN PARTIAL FULFILMENT OF THE REQUIREMENTS FOR THE DEGREE OF MASTER OF ARTS in THE FACULTY OF GRADUATE STUDTES (Department of History) We accept this thesis as conforming to the required standard THE UNIVERSITY OF BRITISH COLUMBIA July 2002 (C) Rhea V. Low, 2002 In presenting this thesis in partial fulfilment of the requirements for an advanced degree at the University of British Columbia, I agree that the Library shall make it freely available for reference and study. I further agree that permission for extensive copying of this thesis for scholarly purposes may be granted by the head of my department or by his or her representatives. It is understood that copying or publication of this thesis for financial gain shall not be allowed without my written permission. Department of j- iSt~opj The University of British Columbia Vancouver, Canada Date Auy. °i , 2fl05 DE-6 (2/88) Abstract Beginning in 1978, the People's Republic of China embarked on new economic reforms that aimed to modernize the country. It wanted to convey that in sharp contrast to the radical, turbulent, ultra leftist days of the Cultural Revolution, the post-Mao period has been experiencing higher consumption levels, greater material progress, and modern living. An area that has been strongly influenced by this message about China's shift in policy and direction is clothing. As a case study, two state-run fashion magazines produced in China between the years 1980 to 1986 have been analyzed. -
Red Scarf Girl
A Facing History and Ourselves Study Guide Teaching RED SCARF GIRL Created to Accompany the Memoir Red Scarf Girl, by Ji-li Jiang A Facing History and Ourselves Study Guide Teaching RED SCARF GIRL Created to Accompany the Memoir Red Scarf Girl, by Ji-li Jiang Facing History and Ourselves is an international educational and professional development organization whose mission is to engage students of diverse backgrounds in an examination of racism, prejudice, and antisemitism in order to promote the development of a more humane and informed citizenry. By studying the historical development of the Holocaust and other examples of genocide, students make the essential connection between history and the moral choices they confront in their own lives. For more information about Facing History and Ourselves, please visit our website at www.facinghistory.org. The front cover illustration is a section from a propaganda poster created during the beginning of the Cultural Revolution (1966–1968), the same years Ji-li describes in her memoir. Since the founding of the People’s Republic of China 1949, government and party officials used mass- produced posters as a way to promote nationalism and convey the values of the Communist Party. Propaganda posters were especially important during the Cultural Revolution, and this poster represents many dominant themes of this media: the glorification of Mao, the color red symbolizing China and the Chinese Communist Party, and the depiction of youth as foot-soldiers for the revolution. The slogan on the poster expresses a popular anthem of the era: Chairman Mao is the Reddest Reddest Red Sun in Our Hearts. -
Fashion,Costume,And Culture
FCC_TP_V2_930 3/5/04 3:55 PM Page 1 Fashion, Costume, and Culture Clothing, Headwear, Body Decorations, and Footwear through the Ages FCC_TP_V2_930 3/5/04 3:55 PM Page 3 Fashion, Costume, and Culture Clothing, Headwear, Body Decorations, and Footwear through the Ages Volume 2: Early Cultures Across2 the Globe SARA PENDERGAST AND TOM PENDERGAST SARAH HERMSEN, Project Editor Fashion, Costume, and Culture: Clothing, Headwear, Body Decorations, and Footwear through the Ages Sara Pendergast and Tom Pendergast Project Editor Imaging and Multimedia Composition Sarah Hermsen Dean Dauphinais, Dave Oblender Evi Seoud Editorial Product Design Manufacturing Lawrence W. Baker Kate Scheible Rita Wimberley Permissions Shalice Shah-Caldwell, Ann Taylor ©2004 by U•X•L. U•X•L is an imprint of For permission to use material from Picture Archive/CORBIS, the Library of The Gale Group, Inc., a division of this product, submit your request via Congress, AP/Wide World Photos; large Thomson Learning, Inc. the Web at http://www.gale-edit.com/ photo, Public Domain. Volume 4, from permissions, or you may download our top to bottom, © Austrian Archives/ U•X•L® is a registered trademark used Permissions Request form and submit CORBIS, AP/Wide World Photos, © Kelly herein under license. Thomson your request by fax or mail to: A. Quin; large photo, AP/Wide World Learning™ is a trademark used herein Permissions Department Photos. Volume 5, from top to bottom, under license. The Gale Group, Inc. Susan D. Rock, AP/Wide World Photos, 27500 Drake Rd. © Ken Settle; large photo, AP/Wide For more information, contact: Farmington Hills, MI 48331-3535 World Photos. -
Photography, Performativity, and Immigration Re-Imagined in the Self-Portraits of Tseng Kwong Chi, Nikki S
Upending the Melting Pot: Photography, Performativity, and Immigration Re-Imagined in the Self-Portraits of Tseng Kwong Chi, Nikki S. Lee, and Annu Palakunnathu Matthew By Copyright 2016 Ellen Cordero Raimond Submitted to the graduate degree program in Art History and the Graduate Faculty of the University of Kansas in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy. ________________________________ Chairperson John Pultz ________________________________ David C. Cateforis ________________________________ Sherry D. Fowler ________________________________ Kelly H. Chong ________________________________ Ludwin E. Molina Date Defended: 28 March 2016 The Dissertation Committee for Ellen Cordero Raimond certifies that this is the approved version of the following dissertation: Upending the Melting Pot: Photography, Performativity, and Immigration Re-Imagined in the Self-Portraits of Tseng Kwong Chi, Nikki S. Lee, and Annu Palakunnathu Matthew ________________________________ Chairperson John Pultz Date approved: 28 March 2016 ii Abstract Tseng Kwong Chi, Nikki S. Lee, and Annu Palakunnathu Matthew each employ our associations with photography, performativity, and self-portraiture to compel us to re-examine our views of immigrants and immigration and bring them up-to-date. Originally created with predominantly white European newcomers in mind, traditional assimilative narratives have little in common with the experience of immigrants of color for whom “blending in” with “white mainstream America” is not an option. -
Popular Memories of the Mao Era
Popular Memories of the Mao Era From Critical Debate to Reassessing History Edited by Sebastian Veg Hong Kong University Press The University of Hong Kong Pokfulam Road Hong Kong www.hkupress.hku.hk © 2019 Hong Kong University Press ISBN 978-988-8390-76-2 (Hardback) All rights reserved. No portion of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or any information storage or retrieval system, without prior permission in writing from the publisher. British Library Cataloguing-in-Publication Data A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed and bound by Paramount Printing Co. Ltd., Hong Kong, China Contents Acknowledgments vii 1. Introduction: Trauma, Nostalgia, Public Debate 1 Sebastian Veg Part I. Unofficial Memories in the Public Sphere: Journals, Internet, Museums 2. Writing about the Past, an Act of Resistance: An Overview of Independent Journals and Publications about the Mao Era 21 Jean-Philippe Béja 3. Annals of the Yellow Emperor: Reconstructing Public Memory of the Mao Era 43 Wu Si 4. Contested Past: Social Media and the Production of Historical Knowledge of the Mao Era 61 Jun Liu 5. Can Private Museums Offer Space for Alternative History? The Red Era Series at the Jianchuan Museum Cluster 80 Kirk A. Denton Part II. Critical Memory and Cultural Practices: Reconfiguring Elite and Popular Discourse 6. Literary and Documentary Accounts of the Great Famine: Challenging the Political System and the Social Hierarchies of Memory 115 Sebastian Veg 7. -
Xi Jinping's Inner Circle (Part 2: Friends from Xi's Formative Years)
Xi Jinping’s Inner Circle (Part 2: Friends from Xi’s Formative Years) Cheng Li The dominance of Jiang Zemin’s political allies in the current Politburo Standing Committee has enabled Xi Jinping, who is a protégé of Jiang, to pursue an ambitious reform agenda during his first term. The effectiveness of Xi’s policies and the political legacy of his leadership, however, will depend significantly on the political positioning of Xi’s own protégés, both now and during his second term. The second article in this series examines Xi’s longtime friends—the political confidants Xi met during his formative years, and to whom he has remained close over the past several decades. For Xi, these friends are more trustworthy than political allies whose bonds with Xi were built primarily on shared factional association. Some of these confidants will likely play crucial roles in helping Xi handle the daunting challenges of the future (and may already be helping him now). An analysis of Xi’s most trusted associates will not only identify some of the rising stars in the next round of leadership turnover in China, but will also help characterize the political orientation and worldview of the influential figures in Xi’s most trusted inner circle. “Who are our enemies? Who are our friends?” In the early years of the Chinese Communist movement, Mao Zedong considered this “a question of first importance for the revolution.” 1 This question may be even more consequential today, for Xi Jinping, China’s new top leader, than at any other time in the past three decades. -
The Twentieth Century (History of Costume and Fashion Volume 8)
A History of Fashion and Costume The Twentieth Century Clare and Adam Hibbert The Twentieth Century Library of Congress Cataloging- in-Publication Data Copyright © 2005 Bailey Publishing Associates Ltd Hibbert, Clare, 1970– A history of fashion and costume. Produced for Facts On File by The Twentieth Century/Clare and Bailey Publishing Associates Ltd Adam Hibbert. 11a Woodlands p. cm. Hove BN3 6TJ Includes bibliographical references and index. Project Manager: Roberta Bailey ISBN 0-8160-5951-9 Editor:Alex Woolf 1. Clothing and dress—History— Text Designer: Simon Borrough 20th century. Artwork: Dave Burroughs, Peter Dennis, GT596.H53 2005 Tony Morris 391/.009/04—dc 22 2005046936 Picture Research: Glass Onion Pictures Consultant:Tara Maginnis, Ph.D. The publishers would like to thank the Associate Professor of the University of Alaska, following for permission to use their Fairbanks, and creator of the website,The pictures: Costumer's Manifesto (http://costumes.org/). Art Archive: 6, 16, 24, 39 (bottom) Printed and bound in Hong Kong Corbis: 58 Kobal: 20, 23, 26, 30 (right), 39 (top), All rights reserved. No part of this book may be 43, 45 reproduced or utilized in any form or by any Mary Evans Picture Library: 9 (both), means, electronic or mechanical, including 17, 29, photocopying, recording, or by any information Popperfoto: 12, 21, storage or retrieval systems, without permission in Rex Features: 7 (top), 30 (left), 32, 37 writing from the publisher. For information (both), 41 (both), 42, 46, 47 (left), 48 contact: (right) Topham: 7 (bottom), 8, 18, 19, 27, 28, Facts On File, Inc. 33, 35, 36, 44, 47 (right), 48 (left), 49, 132 West 31st Street 50, 53 (both), 54, 56, 57, 59 New York NY 10001 Victoria & Albert Museum: 10, 11, 14, 15, 55 Facts On File books are available at special discounts when purchased in bulk quantities for businesses, associations, institutions, or sales promotions. -
On Sun Yat-Sen Suit and Jeans Name: Liu Mingyue School
Typical Dress in China and America - On Sun Yat-Sen Suit and Jeans Name: Liu Mingyue School: Henan Normal University E-mail: [email protected] Phone Number: 15238167624 Abstract Dress culture is not only a way to show fashion, also it is a way to express the different inner world of people. In this paper, we will talk about typical dress in China and American, Sun Yat-Sen Suit and Jeans. From the perspective of their history, different connotations of the design principle, and their popularity, we would like to take you to sense the charm of different dress culture. They all have their own unique features, and whatever kinds of dress you choose the key point lies in you mind. Because what fits you better would be the best one. Key Words: Dress culture; Sun Yat-Sen Suit; Jeans; History; Connotation; Popularity 1 1. Introduction Dress culture is not a single part of a nation, it has deep historical and social background. Also it can reflect the awareness and spirit of the people in China and America. As far as I am concerned, I feel great interest in this field, and I want to know more about the dress in other countries, particularly in America. Through this project I want to achieve the following objectives: Remind people of the traditional dress in China and America. Educate people on the connotation of the design principle, including the color and material of traditional dress. Expose the culture differences in dress, and find the most optimal and balanced point between the two nations.