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1 Waterways of the Tsars: Moscow to St. Petersburg WATERWAYS OF THE TSARS: MOSCOW TO ST. PETERSBURG ABOARD THE VOLGA DREAM Table of Contents Thank You ...................................................................................................................................2 Introduction.................................................................................................................................2 Summary Overview ....................................................................................................................3 June 17 - Prague - Bridges to dynasties, history and culture......................................................5 June 18 - Prague - Castles, palaces and more steeples .............................................................10 June 19 - Prague to Moscow - An introduction to the Tsars and some new friends................12 June 20 - Moscow - The world of Pushkin................................................................................13 June 21 - Moscow - A private collection now public, and the ballet ........................................17 June 22 - Moscow - Anniversary of Germany’s declaration of war on Russia (1941) .............21 June 23 - Uglich - Our 38th wedding anniversary! ....................................................................26 June 24 - Plyos - Russian politics update and our first stop on the Volga.................................28 June 25 - Yaroslavl - The oldest city on the Volga...................................................................30 June 26 - Goritsy - Two monasteries, Basil II gets a "Terrible" son, and we see eagles.........32 June 27 - Kizhi - Log cathedrals and onion domes ...................................................................34 June 28 - Mandrogi - Vodka culture and Farewell Dinner.......................................................39 June 29 - St. Petersburg - Peter’s dream and the city of palaces and poets .............................40 June 30 - St. Petersburg - Two palaces: built, destroyed and restored; and Hermitage #2......43 July 1 - St. Petersburg - Fountains, “cottages” and world class Russian art............................49 July 2 - St. Petersburg to Helsinki - A “doormat” survives and excels...................................52 July 3 - Helsinki - Reliving a 57-year memory .........................................................................54 July 4 - Helsinki - No fireworks, but lots of weddings..............................................................57 July 5 - Helsinki to New York - Homeward bound..................................................................59 Epilogue - “Discovery” ..............................................................................................................60 Appendix - The History of Prague.............................................................................................61 Appendix - The History of Russia .............................................................................................62 Appendix - The History of Helsinki ..........................................................................................63 Index - Chronological Order of Churches and Monasteries Visited..........................................64 Index - Chronological Order of Museums Visited.....................................................................65 Index - Chronological Order of Lectures ...................................................................................66 1 Thank You We are immensely grateful to David and Charlotte, who, again last Christmas, gave us two roundtrip air tickets to anywhere in the world we wanted to go! It is such a generous, yet challenging gift as we consider what’s left on our “bucket list”. The gift is without limitations, except it can’t be to do business and we aren’t allowed to take family members with us. This unique opportunity stretches our sensibilities, fulfills our dreams and lets us reach into uncharted waters (literally and figuratively). We want to also acknowledge the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s role in initiating and organizing “The Waterways of the Tsars” trip along with their tour organizer, Academic Arrangements Abroad. Two of AAA’s Russian experts, George Garber and Olga Kovalenko, who traveled with us in Russia as tour directors, were immeasurably helpful in seeing that things ran smoothly. They were also good company. Our lecturers and fellow travelers, Helen Evans of the Metropolitan Museum of Art, and Simon Marks of Thirteen/WNET greatly expanded our horizons in understanding the history, art and politics of Russia. Finally, we are indebted to Greg and Andrea Elphinston for taking us into their home for dinner in Helsinki. Note should be made of the author’s dependence on DK Eyewitness Travel Guide books for explanation, spelling and various descriptions. Introduction Right after Christmas, we received an invitation from the Met to “join us for a very special voyage aboard the Volga Dream. As we navigate the gentle Russian waterways, the countryside will unfold, revealing a fascinating land of peaceful villages and domed monasteries. Moscow and St. Petersburg will delight us with their splendid palaces, extraordinary museum collections and architectural treasures.” In our home, Judith opens the mail, sorting it: for her, me (mostly bills), us (for discussion) and the trash can (ads, catalogs, etc.). We both hit on this exciting travel opportunity at the same moment: could we fit it into our schedule? afford it? was it at the top of our “bucket list”? Yes, maybe and yes. By January 27th, we had submitted our applications and deposits. The time since then has been consumed with the excitement of planning, reading and dreaming. 2 Summary Overview First, a declaration: this journal was prepared for our own record and enjoyment and for family and friends that may want to sample a small part of our incredible experience. The Table of Contents provides daily highlights; the Indices catalog, in chronological order, the museums and churches visited and the academic lectures attended; the photographs portray a small percentage of what we saw. Given the uncharted experiences for us, nearly every section includes a historical perspective or background to form a platform for our findings. More complete histories—of Prague, Russia and Helsinki - are included as Appendices. The impetus for the trip came from an invitation from the Metropolitan Museum of Art “to visit Ancient and Imperial Russia via “The Waterways of the Tsars” aboard the Volga Dream. Our goal was to study, or at least get an exposure to, the incredible history, art and politics of the regions visited. The “bookends” to our trip (see cover) were added as a first visit to Prague and a return to Helsinki, where a significant part of my life was shaped in 1952. These opening and closing venues were visited in each other’s company, while our Russian journey was with a great group of like-minded individuals who (mostly) shared our passion for the “academic” approach to and opportunities offered through focused travel. Our emphasis on Church and State is driven by the recognition that, particularly in the areas visited, there are rich and complex examples of the relationship and the priorities of each. In addition, churches offer the best in art and architecture, and museums often expose the best and the worst of history. Our focus was on the geographic areas between the Baltic and Black Seas, encompassing roughly 12 centuries of history, art and politics, not to mention dozens of wars, occupations and treaties, made and broken. The duration (19 days) and intensity of this trip set a record for us: 34 churches and monasteries, 29 museums and 8 dance and concert performances. Our hotels were some of the best in Europe: Four Seasons Prague, Ritz Carlton Moscow, Grand Hotel Europe St. Petersburg, and Hotel Kämp Helsinki. The food was some of the best we have ever eaten; the weather was close to perfect. What’s not to like about that! Prague, despite its wars, occupations and republic splits, is today on the threshold of a new era. It is a beautiful and warm city with 21st c. ambitions and the inspired people and leadership to make them happen. It is the quintessential example of a city that has weathered the worst and now offers the best. It should be close to the top of places that everyone must visit. Russia is-uniquely-Russia. It has been variously influenced by the Kievan Rus, the Mongols, Poland, Sweden, France (Napoleon), Germany (Hitler), revolutions and civil wars, World Wars I and II, the creation and dissolution of the USSR and especially, by the Russian Orthodox Church. Over that time, it has had strong and weak leadership, but consistently it has fostered some of the world’s best artists, musicians, dancers and writers, not to mention, scientists (Sputnik I was launched in 1957). It represents (even after the 1991 split), an enormous territory (at one time, one-sixth of the earth’s surface) and possesses an abundance of the world’s greatest natural resources. Still, are today’s Russians 3 happier? Not necessarily; while things are better, many miss the “order” and comfort level of the Communist state. Moscow is experiencing an economic boom, notwithstanding the current global crisis. The standard of living is rising in general, especially for the “New Russians”, i.e. the oligarchs or wealthy elite. Moscow has always been a city apart from the rest of Russia. In the recent years, this gulf has widened leading to a wave of immigration from the provinces
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