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beerpaperla.com /beerpaperla #beerpaperla @beerpaperla VOLUME 6 | ISSUE 7 | December 2018 | FREE! RAISING HELL(ER)

Amy Heller, Head Brewer at Arrow Lodge Photo Credit: Dan Vigil

Who the Hell is Amy Heller? One of my beer writer mantras has always been that word of mouth is fail-safe when it comes to new breweries. You can just sit back and wait for the reviews to pour in and, more often than not, they are all positive or, unfortunately, sometimes all negative. By Daniel Drennon (FULL COVER STORY ON PAGE 12) INSIDE WISHFUL DRINKING GAMECRAFT FOOD PAIRINGS BENNETT’S BEAT YAEGER SHOTS

PAGE 4 PAGE 6 PAGE 8 PAGE 16 PAGE 20 PAGE 2 DECEMBER 2018 | Beer Paper #beerpaperla BEER PAPER

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PAGE 4 DECEMBER 2018 | Beer Paper

WISHFUL DRINKING SIBLING REVELRY MEET NOHO’S BREWS BROS by TOMM CARROLL It was somewhat apropos that the make sure we’re representing the place very afternoon Beer Paper sat down right, especially in the beginning…” over a couple brews with Joey and Billie Anderson to discuss their “…because we want to make sure latest venture, the new craft beer bar everyone who comes in here gets the and eatery Brews Brothers in North Brews Brothers experience — from the Hollywood, it happened to be Veterans brews brothers,” interjects Joey. (The Day. siblings have a penchant for finishing each other’s sentences.) “And when we After all, they are both veterans do hire some bartenders, we’re gonna of LA’s better beer scene, having spend a lot of time training them to served in the trenches as waiters and ensure that experience continues on, bartenders at Hollywood’s proto-craft even when we’re not behind the bar.” beer restaurant, the now defunct Lucky Devils on Hollywood Boulevard, when Speaking of which, the Brews Brothers it opened in March 2006 — yes, before bar boasts 42 taps, three of which are Blue Palms, and even pre-dating nitro, two dedicated to cider and one Verdugo bar. for kombucha. A beer engine for cask Joey and Billie Anderson All Photos Courtesy of Brews Brothers ales should be coming soon. Wine is complex food or beverages out there,” including Belgium and the UK, that How far back was that, in craft beer also available, but no hard liquor. qualifies Joey. “We sell more sours was part of the inspiration for the terms? “Stone’s were huge back here than any other craft beer bar I’ve Andersons to open Brews Brothers. then,” Joey recalls. And Pasadena’s “The focus of our beer list is very ever been with. I can’t believe how “When we started travelling the world, Craftsman was the only local brewery similar to ’s because, obviously, many people come in and ask, ‘Do we went to all these breweries, started with beer on Lucky’s taps. “The their beer program is our beer you have any sours on tap?’ And I say, meeting the brewers, and learning delivery driver for Craftsman was program,” Joey explains with a smile. ‘Yeah, we have 10 of them.” all this history,” Billie reveals. “It’s a Bob Kunz, now of Highland Park “We’ve just expanded upon it. At Stout, there’s only 30 taps, mostly rabbit hole we went down…” Brewery,” Billie points out, putting The siblings are clearly in their focused on American and Belgian things into perspective. element here. “We’ve been doing the “…and given our positions as beer strong ales. Here, we have the capacity on-premise side of craft beer for so buyers,” Joey picks up the story Heretofore best known as the siblings to add a couple more German-style long — picking and buying great beers without missing a beat, “when we went who look like twins (but aren’t; Joey beers and lagers, as well as a lot of — that we wanted to keep it going,” to breweries and beer bars, we’d get is 20 months older) that work and run specialty beers.” elaborates Billie. “There’s a need a different viewpoint than the average the beer program and festivals at the for someone to curate all the great consumer. We got to meet the owners Stout Burgers & Beers franchises in “We get some rare beers in here, beers out there; otherwise how else and the brewers who are 6th, 7th, LA, the Andersons have finally made and already the response has been will people find them to drink except 8th generation, hear their stories, and good on their oft-talked-about plan amazing,” attests Billie. The most to go to the respective breweries witness that real passion instead of just to open their own place — and have popular styles with the clientele so far? themselves? It makes sense for us to visiting the facility and drinking the taken their self-deemed moniker, the “Yes, the hazy IPAs are selling like open a place like this, where we can beer. That’s been extremely influential Brews Brothers, as its name. Located crazy, of course,” he replies, “but sours still teach people about the beer and for us.” smack-dab in the middle of the too, surprisingly…” make it available to them.” NoHo Arts District, on the corner of “…and for good reason; well-made Their other, earlier influence was Lankershim Blvd. and Hartsook St., sour beers are some of the most In fact, it was travel to beer countries, homebrewing, which awakened the the spacious venue quietly soft-opened brothers’ interest in and appreciation of (but has been packed nonetheless) in beer, as well as their consideration of a early October, and celebrated its grand future in it. This began about the time opening in mid-November. they moved on from Lucky Devils in 2009 to help open the original Stout “Even Thursdays started to get really in Hollywood. According to Billie, busy since our soft opening, which is “We’ve been at Stout for a long time, surprising considering we’ve done zero nine years…” promotion and no marketing, with the exception of a few Instagram posts,” “…nine years ago today [Veterans reports Joey, 39. “We wanted to open Day],” Joey clarifies, adding, “Alex quietly, do it right and make sure that [Kagianaris] and the other owners are our staff and kitchen are comfortable.” fine with us opening Brews Brothers; they’re entrepreneurs themselves…” Adds Billie, 37, “We’re the only bartenders right now! We want to Alejandro Ramos, Billie Anderson, Elsa Anderson, Joey Anderson and Anita Curran “…and we’ve been there so long, and Beer Paper | DECEMBER 2018 PAGE 5 they’ve treated us so well, we didn’t With exposed brick outer walls and really want to just up and leave,” reclaimed wood all over, the place Billie offers, completing his thought. sports a high arched ceiling with Besides, the newly minted publicans exposed rafters, and a mezzanine can use the extra cash to aid them overlooking the bar that is used for in getting their larger-than-planned office space and will host rare bottle (5,100-plus-square-feet) emporium up shares. And there’s plenty of room and running. on the floor for games, including two pool tables, foosball, table shuffleboard “We had been looking for locations on and many board games. “The ideas and off for a few years,” Joey confides. kept growing as we were building the “When I first visited this place, I place,” explains Joey. “The games literally got one foot in the front door came about because we had so much and said, ‘This is Blues Brothers!’ I space…” called Billie immediately: ‘We have to look at this place!’” “…and we don’t charge for any of the games,” Billie is quick to add. “Our “It was Victory Martial Arts studio,” customers really love that.” says Billie. “The facility was initially built as a mechanic shop in the 1920s, Also to come in the next few months which it was for some 50, 60 years. is a 7-by-55-foot patio to run along Then it was an art studio before the Lankershim Blvd. and a small bottle martial arts school.” shop in the corner by the bar’s back door. And down the line, possibly live “The amount of space was extremely music and entertainment. The space is intimidating,” confesses Joey. “I knew so roomy, the possibilities are almost this was Brews Brothers, but I didn’t endless. know if we could afford it. But with the help of their only partner, Anita However, first and foremost at Brews Curran (a longtime hospitality industry Brothers — as anyone who knows friend who used to manage the Tipsy the Anderson boys is well aware Cow), and Billie’s wife Elsa, the — it’s all about the beer. Hence, new venue’s office manager, and also the hand-burned (by Elsa) wooden playing other roles (they met at Lucky sign outside and above the front Devils!), together they all transformed door echoes the slogan of another the property into a bar/restaurant, pair of “suds siblings,” those beer- doing everything from sanding paint advocating Alström brothers: “Respect off doors to grinding down concrete the Passion. Respect the Craft.” floors to stripping off polyurethane www.brewsbrotherscraftbeer.com from the building’s outside to installing a bar, cold room and kitchen Award-winning beer writer Tomm — where Alejandro Ramos is head Carroll is a longtime contributor to chef. Celebrator Beer News. He first met the Anderson brothers, separately, “We did most everything ourselves at Lucky Devils back in the day, except for HVAC, plumbing, electrical, and thought they were the same mechanical and fire sprinklers,” Joey person. Then he thought they were explains. “We also had some good twins. And no, it wasn’t because he friends in construction help us a little drank too much beer. Contact him at bit and advise us.” [email protected]. PAGE 6 DECEMBER 2018 | Beer Paper

PROFILE ANDREW MOY LETS HIS BEER SPEAK FOR ITSELF AT GAMECRAFT by DANIEL DRENNON I first met Andrew Moy when he was of opening a new nano brewery. It brewing at Riip Beer Company in was my first role as a head brewer; Sunset Beach several years ago. My being responsible for all of the friend and Beer Paper colleague Brian production I had to learn a lot of Navarro was one of their earliest and new things operationally to keep the most fanatic supporters, telling me, business running. As a brewer, I got “You have to check out Riip! They the opportunity to really play around are brewing IPAs that compare to with a lot of ingredients and dial in my Beachwood’s and Noble’s.” I accused IPAs, which we were mainly making him of having lost his mind but was there. I ended up leaving RIIP at the intrigued enough to immediately make end of 2016 to go to the Siebel institute a trip to Riip. in Chicago and Doemens Academy in Munich, Germany as part of the WBA I met Moy, a brewer who looks like he - World Brewing Academy. After needs to be carded before you can even winning a Silver Medal for IPA (Riip serve him a beer. Sure enough, the line Super Cali) at the 2016 GABF, my up of multiple West Coast style IPAs grandfather offered to pay the tuition was excellent. I wasn’t convinced they for school and it was an opportunity I were world class excellent at the level Head Brewer Andrew Moy and Photo Courtesy of @OCBrewGirl couldn’t pass up. of Beachwood and Noble, but they General Manager Scott Cebula were definitely solid. In fact, super the biggest influence on me. He not DRENNON: How valuable was the solid. GameCraft in Laguna Hills. only helped me get my start in the education you received at Siebel and industry, but I learned a lot of really Doemens? This was confirmed when Moy and DRENNON: When and how did you great fundamentals from working there Riip officially put themselves on the get into brewing? with him. My brewing philosophies MOY: Immeasurable. Going into the local beer fan radar by winning the and styles really evolved from working WBA with some industry background MOY: My parents got me a homebrew Silver Medal for their Super Cali IPA there, a lot of which I continue today. really helped as well. It helped put kit for Christmas in 2013 and I (the category with by far the most Blackwell’s super sessionable pale ale into context a lot of the really in depth started really diving into it. After entries) at the 2016 Great American in particular is a great example of how material we were being taught. A homebrewing for a little bit, I decided Beer Festival. a simplicity of recipes can sometimes lot of that information was almost to get a job at a brewery temporarily bring together something greater than immediately put to good use in the while I looked to get a job with my Suddenly, Riip was a destination the sum of its parts. design and build out of the brewery for degree from UCI in Public Health. brewery. But then, next thing you GameCraft. know, Moy up and leaves Riip. Not to After a while working at Bayhawk DRENNON: What did you learn move on to another brewery like the Ales in Irvine, I fell in love with the during your time at Riip and why did DRENNON: What was the genesis of musical (brewer) chairs we see being industry and stuck with it. you choose to leave? GameCraft? played throughout , but to DRENNON: Which brewers and/or return to school. The learn more about MOY: I learned a ton at Riip, MOY: GameCraft started as an idea which beers have influenced you? his craft. especially the trials and tribulations of my co-owner, Scott Cebula. He MOY: I think Blackwell from Belmont And now, armed with more and better Brewing Co. and his pale ale has had craft than he left with, he has opened

GameCraft Brewing Company Tasting Room Photo Courtesy of @OCBrewGirl Beer Paper | DECEMBER 2018 PAGE 7 foods with than wine. There’s such a diversity in flavors; sweet, bitter, sour, chocolate, fruit, salt (gose), etc. With the pairings we take the approach of the beer highlighting the food, or the food highlighting the beer. With our Asian/Latin fusion pub food, we have a lot of options and flavors with which to play around. DRENNON: What are your goals for the brewery and for yourself individually as a brewer? MOY: As a brewer I’d like to see a comeback in sessionable styles, ales and lagers. It would be great to see GameCraft lead the way to the (L-R): Head Brewer Andrew Moy, Tasting Room Manager Demetria Dorame, Photo Courtesy of @OCBrewGirl return of great, drinkable beer. For Assistant Brewer Michael Ewoldt, Tasting Room Manager Ian Frailey, Kitchen Manager Jesse Robinson, Marketing and Sales the brewery, it would be awesome to Manager Cory Crider, General Manager Scott Cebula and Operations Manager Kanda Cebula see GameCraft turn into a respected wanted to open something in Laguna DRENNON: Is there a philosophy to DRENNON: In addition to being regional brewery, hang out spot, and Hills, where he’s lived for over 20 your brewing? really impressed by the beer at community builder in South OC. years, that brought the community GameCraft, I was impressed by the Daniel Drennon is the publisher, editor together. Initially he was looking at MOY: Beer is a complex beverage food. It is not predictable pub grub. but I think generally, I like to take and head writer of BEER PAPER. Like opening a coffee/beer bar but as he How do you view the pairing of the a million other dreamers, Drennon explored more options and did more a simplistic approach to it. You food and the beer at GameCraft? don’t have to get super crazy with moved to LA to write screenplays. Like research, he saw how local breweries 999,000 of them, he was ultimately have been building communities in all different types of adjuncts or rare MOY: From conception, we wanted ingredients to make great beer. I think food pairings as a main component unsuccessful. In 2009, inspired by their respective areas. So, he decided the artistry of American brewers, he he wanted to open a brewery in SMASH (Single Malt and Single Hop) of the tap room. Scott and I both IPAs are a great example. It’s back enjoy eating, drinking, and exploring became the first dedicated beer writer Laguna Hills. That was probably easier for the LA Weekly. to approach since he also has been a to the four main ingredients in beer; different flavors. In my opinion, beer homebrewer for 20 years. water, malt, hops, and yeast. You just is a much better beverage to pair have to let the ingredients speak for DRENNON: Who came up with the themselves. cool concept and name? DRENNON: Do you have favorite MOY: That was Scott mainly. It was styles? a bit of a placeholder at first as we developed the brand and the brewery. MOY: I think right now I have We both are gamers and have been gravitated to just more ‘sessionable’ for years, and we wanted to show that beer in general. There’s just something in our branding. I guess we saw it as nice about being able to have couple ‘games’ as a whole; video, traditional, great tasting beers without getting board games, etc., meets craft beer. too full or bogged down from bigger, Over time, the name stuck and we ‘heavier’ beers. went with it.

“Let’s never lose our playfulness.” Photo Courtesy of @OCBrewGirl PAGE 8 DECEMBER 2018 | Beer Paper

FOOD PAIRINGS TORRANCE’S GREAT JAPANESE FOOD DESERVES GREAT LOCAL BEER by TREVOR HAGSTROM than in other parts of Los Angeles. and bento boxes ready to introduce We’re thrilled to have such great to your favorite local beer. Grab a restaurants and breweries in Torrance, chirashi (chiraszushi, or “scattered but both are mightier when paired sushi”) bowl. These are a fully-loaded together. fish and rice bowls with a selection of sashimi, flying fish roe, and ribbons Torrance could be one of the best of Japanese omelet. Chirashi rice is places imaginable to explore exciting seasoned gently and doesn’t require flavor combinations such as umami- soy sauce packets to gussy it up. rich broths and bitter-edged brews, or The oceanic flavors of raw tuna and the clean flavors of raw fish with dry salmon roe are an excellent match for spicy ales. Mass-produced lagers like the round textures and mineral finish Kirin and Sapporo don’t do the cuisine of Yorkshire Square’s cask ales. The justice. Even when restaurants stock At Last the 1948 Dark Mild makes Japanese craft beer, they are missing a refreshing pairing that evokes the out on the fresh local flavors available flavor of soy sauce without adding salt at Torrance’s craft breweries. to your meal and overpowering the Smog City Bottles at Mitsuwa Photo Credit: Maggie Rosenberg On the other side, craft breweries are delicate fish. Mitsuwa is also one of When we think of Torrance, we think Los Angeles. Because beer is food, more accepting of outside food. Most the few Japanese eateries in Torrance of two things: exciting new beer and Torrance, with its eleven craft Torrance breweries don’t have their that sells local craft beer, having six- authentic Japanese cuisine. The only breweries, is our favorite of these own kitchen, and any food is catered packs of Smog City in the fridge last problem is that Japanese restaurants neighborhoods for dining. Torrance by a rotating cast of unaffiliated food (FOOD PAIRINGS continued on page 11) are sticklers about carrying Japanese has had great restaurants for decades, trucks. In the rare cases where food products. Torrance’s craft beer scene is but now that great beer is here, the area isn’t allowed, you can always take becoming too excellent to ignore. We is a force of flavor. your beer in growlers or bottles, and hope that in time Japanese restaurant enjoy these stunning matches at home. owners will engage local breweries. Japanese restaurants originally moved For now, realizing the potential in to support a growing community Self-catering from Mitsuwa for Torrance’s best food and beer of immigrants and Toyota plant Marketplace, a Japanese grocery chain combinations takes a bit of take-out workers. Torrance still has the highest whose American headquarters are in initiative. concentration of ethnically Japanese Torrance, is a great way to connect residents of any city in the continental these sequestered worlds of L.A. Along with the Sawtelle Boulevard United States. The breweries came craft beer and Japanese cuisine. The corridor and Little , Torrance largely because the warehouse space market comes complete with a food Chirashi Bowl at Mitsuwa is a center of Japanese culture in and licensing are more affordable here court and a cold case full of sushi Photo Credit: Maggie Rosenberg &

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Beer Paper | DECEMBER 2018 PAGE 11

(FOOD PAIRINGS continued) sweet and salty dressings on the bowl. time we visited. Smog’s Little Bo Pils is another What is a Japanese food tour without sushi rolls? harmonious match for chirashi. Our favorite place to get them is I-Naba and our favorite beer match is Monkish Brewing’s Feminist, The Japanese have an entire category of cuisine one of the most beloved of their rotating cast of designed for enjoying with beer. Japanese pubs, inventive brews. The wild fragrances of the Belgian izakayas, have menus full of fried and grilled salty yeasts and the slight tartness of the hibiscus make snacks to encourage ordering more rounds. Often for a strong, wine-like brew that can still compliment these meals conclude with a hearty bowl of noodles fish and rice. This match is best suited for bolder to help chase the alcohol. One of our favorites in sushi options like shime saba (cured mackerel) Torrance is Torihei, which specializes in yakitori, and uni (sea urchin). If that’s all too rich for your chicken skewers that utilize the whole bird from taste, we’d recommend scaling down to Monkish neck to gizzards. Strand Brewing Company’s Brewing’s Black Kisses, a milder, foudre-aged Musashi Black IPA, appropriately named after a blackberry saison. This would pair beautifully with heroic Japanese swordsman, has the roasty finish to some pristine salmon sashimi. match grilled meats, along with dank hop aromas to perfume the more pungent skewers like chicken The possibilities for pairings are only getting more hearts and livers. interesting. Local breweries keep formulating inspiring new brews, and a fun Japanese chain is Next up is soba, one of our favorite Japanese about to come to Torrance. Chinchikurin specializes lunches. Painstakingly rolled buckwheat noodles in Hiroshima-style Okonomiyaki, pancakes make an affordable luxury. To match the weather topped with whatever you desire (okonomi means in the South Bay, it’s usually best to order them “whatever you like”). Popular pancake additions cold. A great spot to get soba is Ichimiann Bamboo include squid, pork, and fried eggs. The Hiroshima Garden, not too far from the brewery warehouses. style of Okonomiyaki is defined by its use of fried Scholb Brewing’s slightly smoky Bon Fuego Brown noodles layered under the pancake, which makes heightens the nutty, earthy notes of buckwheat these heartier, and thus amazing with beer. These noodles and compliments the chargrilled flavors of are traditionally served from street vendors, so they Ichimiann’s other specialty, broiled eel. travel well to your favorite brewery. Because these One of the newer Japanese restaurant franchises to savory pancakes are such superb beer food, they can open up in Torrance is Red Rock, a place known for match almost any craft beer. Ultimately, matching “American Beef Bowls.” Thinly-sliced, rare roast food and beer is, like building an okonomiyaki, beef is folded into a mound atop rice and drenched about doing whatever you like best. with a sweet soy sauce. Originating in Kobe, Japan, Trevor Hagstrom and Maggie Rosenberg are food, this place has several upscale options for well- beverage, and travel content creators who specialize marbled steak, but we recommend the plain old roast in local foodways. Trevor writes and Maggie takes beef here, with its peculiar raw egg and yogurt sauce photos. Their combined experience has seen them dressing. Pair it with a local red ale, perhaps Smog organizing beer festivals, designing beverage menus, City’s feral Saber-Toothed Squirrel. The elevated and exploring some of Europe’s oldest breweries. alcohol and rich caramel aromas help to temper the Their work can be found at www.tandmworks.com.

Dark Mild at Yorkshire Square Brewing Photo Credit: Maggie Rosenberg PAGE 12 DECEMBER 2018 | Beer Paper

COVER STORY RAISING HELL(ER) by DANIEL DRENNON Who the Hell is Amy Heller? yeast and bacteria, spoilage organisms, sensory training, organization, to One of my beer writer mantras has restaurant service. I can keep going, always been that word of mouth is fail- but it would take pages. The only thing safe when it comes to new breweries. I did not like about winemaking was You can just sit back and wait for the the harvest hours. For two months reviews to pour in and, more often straight, I would work 16 to 18-hour than not, they are all positive or, days. Besides that, I loved everything unfortunately, sometimes all negative. else. One of my favorite things about While not entirely new (they just both winemaking and brewing is the celebrated their 2nd anniversary), use of my senses. Utilizing smell, taste Arrow Lodge Brewing has been a bit and sight is key in analyzing from the of a hidden gem, located 22 miles east raw ingredients to the finished product. of Los Angeles off the 210 freeway, This also includes the touch of the raw just past the 605. I say “a bit” because ingredients to the sounds of being in the secret of how good Arrow Lodge the cellar working. beers are has enjoyed a “cat is out of DRENNON: You homebrewed in the bag” status in 2018. college. Tell me about that experience. Time and time again, beer fans all HELLER: There is no practice with over the city have asked me, “Have winemaking. There is one grape you had Arrow Lodge?” or offer harvest a year. With wine you are more enthusiastically, “Arrow Lodge is a steward of the vineyard. You try to killing it.” I made the trek from get the best grapes possible and not Long Beach to Covina and was mess it up. Brewing beer was a way pleased to discover a tap list with one for some of my fellow students and I column of West Coast-style hoppy to experiment with fermentation. We beers alongside a second column of could do it any time we wanted and all Northeast-style hoppy beers. There of us enjoyed beer. was also Berliner Weisse, lager, and a milk stout that all justified the buzz I DRENNON: How did the transition had been hearing. from winemaker to pro brewer come about? The person responsible for that buzz is Victor Linares, Brent Cruz, Andy McIntyre, Carlos Ramon, Photo Credit: Dan Vigil brewmaster Amy Heller. Her delicious Amy Heller, and Michael Rubio of Arrow Lodge Brewing HELLER: I wanted to be closer to my lager is aptly named Buzz Cut. family and stumbled onto a brewing DRENNON: Your initial direction HELLER: I started in the wine gig. Heller, born and raised in nearby was to be a winemaker. How long did industry in 2003 and continued until Pomona, moved “home” from a career you do that, what did you learn, what 2011. I learned so much! Everything DRENNON: How and where did as a winemaker in NorCal, trading her did you love about it and was there from the science of fermentation, you meet Arrow Lodge owners Victor wine barrels for brewer’s boots. And anything you didn’t love? cellar practices, vineyard management, (Linares), Carlos (Roman) and Andy the local beer scene is the beneficiary (McIntyre)? of that trade. HELLER: I was introduced by a DRENNON: Where were you born mutual friend, Travis Johnston, who and raised and how did it form you at the time was managing Bread and into who you are now? Barley. HELLER: I was born in Pomona, CA DRENNON: How did that translate and raised in La Verne, CA by very into you being offered the opportunity supportive parents. to become the Arrow Lodge brewer? DRENNON: What were you into and HELLER: In speaking with Carlos what were your influences? and Victor it was apparent that we had similar goals in the beer industry. HELLER: Traveling a lot with my I was very excited to be given the family as a child was a huge influence opportunity to finally brew my own on my creativity. recipes and to build a brewery from scratch. Arrow Lodge Brewing Photo Credit: Dan Vigil Beer Paper | DECEMBER 2018 PAGE 13 DRENNON: What brewing systems HELLER: I appreciate classic styles HELLER: My winemaking education do you use at Arrow Lodge and how and enjoy brewing them, but I will was a great advantage to have and why did you select them? not limit myself to them. I enjoy going into brewing. There are a experimenting with ingredients. I take lot of similarities. Developing and HELLER: I started out developing things from my wine background and continuing to expand my palate, is recipes on a 1.5 bbl pilot system that culinary skills to help myself develop to me, one of the most important was really shitty. I didn’t pick it out unique flavor and aroma profiles in things. The sensory training I had and I hated brewing on it. During that some of the beers I produce. was invaluable. I have made beers time, I commissioned a 15bbl Premier inspired by wines that I used to brew house. It was a system I was DRENNON: Perfect segue to my next make. One of them is Buzz Cut familiar brewing on. question which is, how does your which is my lager that I dry hop with expertise as a winemaker serve as an Loral. This beer was inspired by the DRENNON: Do you have a brewing advantage as a brewer? philosophy? Alsatian style Gewurztraminer I used to make. Gewurztraminer is a high terpene varietal and can have a lovely rose aroma. I was able to use Loral in my lager and get an aroma very reminiscent of that wine. DRENNON: Arrow Lodge just celebrated its two-year anniversary. What have been your biggest challenges so far? HELLER: Our biggest challenge is being able to satisfy all our accounts. We just don’t have enough beer. We are in the process of increasing our fermentation capacity.

(RAISING HELL(ER) continued on page 15) Arrow Lodge Brewing Photo Credit: Dan Vigil Photo Credit: Dan Vigil Introducing...

Tapping & Bottle Release at Telegraph Taproom December 7th Beer Paper | DECEMBER 2018 PAGE 15

(RAISING HELL(ER) continued) DRENNON: If you had to describe yourself in one word or phrase, what DRENNON: What do you consider would that be? your biggest success so far? HELLER: Focused and ambitious. HELLER: Seeing the amount of support and love for our beers. Daniel Drennon is the publisher, editor and head writer of BEER PAPER. Like DRENNON: Where do you see a million other dreamers, Drennon yourself and Arrow Lodge at your moved to LA to write screenplays. Like ten-year anniversary? 999,000 of them, he was ultimately HELLER: Producing more beer and unsuccessful. In 2009, inspired by having a well-established sour and the artistry of American brewers, he barrel aging program. became the first dedicated beer writer for the LA Weekly.

Andy, Amy, Victor & Carlos of Arrow Lodge Brewing Photo Credit: Dan Vigil PAGE 16 DECEMBER 2018 | Beer Paper

BENNETT’S BEAT LA PHIL 100: CRAFT BEER AND ORCHESTRAL MUSIC FIND COMMON GROUND by SARAH BENNETT Chris Stone was ready for the both young and old in the audience. evening’s concert: His trumpet was Then, he opened his phone, turned clean and already resting next to his around to face his fellow musicians chair on the stage at Walt Disney and posed for a selfie. Here was a Concert Hall; his sheet music (for the dapper-dressed professional trumpeter world premiere of a computer-assisted about to perform at one of classical orchestral work, conducted by one of music’s most iconic modern venues two African-American conductors in and he’s up there snapping shots with the U.S.) lay on the stand in front of it. the well-to-do in the front rows while nonchalantly drinking a locally brewed As a member of one of the world’s beer. Some wondered aloud: Is he most innovative orchestral ensembles, allowed to do that? Stone usually takes his seat in the back row in the brass section, but on the This is what the LA Phil is known first Casual Fridays event of LA Phil’s for, pushing boundaries of what groundbreaking 2018/2019 season last so-called “classical music” can and month, the musician and homebrewer should be. It’s an institution that stood center stage, decked in all black, over the last century has redefined beer in hand. not only the sounds, but the entire experience of orchestral music As he began to introduce the itself by commissioning new works, evening’s program, Stone clutched bringing in dynamic guests to play a pink-wrapped can of beer -- a brut them and collaborating with other IPA that he helped brew at L.A. civic organizations, from pop and rock Aleworks in honor of the Los Angeles musicians to CicLAvia to, yes, the Los Chris Stone (LA Phil) with Kip Barnes (LA Aleworks) Photo Credit: Sarah Bennett Philharmonic’s 100th anniversary. “I Angeles Brewers Guild. thought it was weird when they asked Sound familiar? meant to draw in younger and more diverse audiences. Depending on the me to host this concert because there’s On the East Coast, in Europe and “Our anniversary beer is called LA a saying, ‘Don’t trust the brass players; beyond, LA Phil overcame the haters series, the average age of an LA Phil Phil 100 and it’s a brut IPA, which is attendee is in the 50s, and Fuentes’ they’re the loudmouth drunkards of the who thought La La Land could a new craft beer style that’s similar orchestra,’” Stone told the nearly sold- never produce anything more than team sees craft beer as one way to to a dry Champagne...Drinking it is lower that. out crowd. “Frankly, I have no idea Hollywood fakery and became known kind of like seeing a world premiere where that stereotype comes from.” as the only orchestra of its size that here,” Stone explained to slightly less- “We want young people coming treats tradition as not something in Without skipping a beat, he put the nervous laughter, noting that L.A.’s here because as you get younger you the past, but something in the future, craft beer scene has exploded in the get more diverse,” says Marketing can to his mouth and took a long chug waiting to be done. that brought nervous laughter from last decade or so with an eye, like Coordinator of Promotions and LA Phil, on balancing tradition and Partnerships Cindy Ly Rozas. “Having risk-taking. “This beer was made to be beer tastings paired with the concert is approachable enough for new drinkers a nice packaged introduction for all.” and still novel enough for aficionados. We want to push boundaries but still L.A. Aleworks in Hawthorne was one connect with every member of our of the guild members that donated kegs community.” for these informal music-beer pairings over the years. But after meeting Stone Although it was always a dream of LA and several other orchestra members Phil’s Assistant Director of Marketing who homebrewed in their spare time at Cynthia Fuentes to have a craft beer an LA Phil picnic, founder Kip Barnes brewed for the orchestra, the LA Phil knew he wanted to be more involved. 100 beer emerged organically out of a Casual Fridays collaboration with the In addition to starting off as a L.A. Brewers Guild that Fuentes and homebrewer himself, Barnes played her team first coordinated four years trombone most of his life, including ago. About once a month during the in the USC Marching Band while Walt Disney Concert Hall season, the in college; he has a soft spot for guild curates beer tastings from local orchestral music. So, earlier this independent breweries for dressed- year, he hosted Stone along with Principal Trombone David Rejano at LA Phil 100 Brut IPA Photo Credit: Sarah Bennett down, post-concert mixers that are Beer Paper | DECEMBER 2018 PAGE 17 L.A. Aleworks for a full brew day, with Carpenter, a stereotype-smashing where they tossed over 80 pounds performer who donned a shaved head of Centennial hops (for the 100th and wore a gold chain as he pounded anniversary, get it?) into the boil kettle on a digital organ. and then donned tuxedos to perform a brassy serenade for what would soon Carpenter talked poetically about how become a light and crisp anniversary the pipe organ is like a human, with its beer. own complex personality and nuances that as a performer must be worked LA Phil 100 was released in October around. Cerrone discussed the oddity and will be available in various of being a composer embedded in iterations through the end of the the orchestra with a laptop during his 2018/2019 season at L.A. Aleworks’ piece’s debut (he was there to trigger tasting room, at the Walt Disney the computer sounds that float over Concert Hall, and at beer bars and and, at times, complement the live bottle shops across the city. “There instruments). are so many parallels between craft beer and art. LA Phil stays on bleeding And before everyone filed out of the edge of being modern...and craft beer hall to sip samples of LA Phil 100 and is trying to modernize everything too,” mingle with orchestra members, Stone Barnes says of his brewery’s approach and Barnes riffed on the connection to navigating the centuries-old between contemporary producers of European traditions of brewing beer orchestral music and local beer, both of while being true to the West Coast’s which are trying to dispel the myth that physical and cultural distance from their craft is only for certain people those histories. “At the taproom, we with certain education and certain have a milkshake IPA next to a classic income levels. IPA next to a German-style Kolsch. “Music is for everyone -- it’s innate,” The LA Phil isn’t afraid to play Stone said. “How many times have modern music next to music that’s 150 you looked at a wine list and not H2OPS LA Beer Paper Ad years old either. It all has to change to known what any of it means? Craft CMYK survive.” August 2018 Rvsd beer has this issue too. But to us, Atmosphere Design 4.75w x 5.75h After the Casual Fridays concert, Stone it’s not about any of that. It’s about and Barnes, along with composer the community and that’s you, Los Chris Cerrone and organist Cameron Angeles. That’s what we wanted to Carpenter, pulled chairs to the front embrace with this project.” of the stage and answered questions Sarah Bennett is a freelance journalist from the remaining audience. The Phil covering beer, food, music and more had just performed the world premiere for LA Times, OC Weekly, Eater, Beer of Cerrone’s computer-assisted Advocate and more. was named orchestral work The Insects Became the Food/Culture critic of 2017 by the Magnetic along with two works for LA Press Club. Follow her on social organ (by Poulenc and Saint-Saëns) media @thesarahbennett.

Casual Fridays at the LA Phil Photo Credit: Sarah Bennett PAGE 18 DECEMBER 2018 | Beer Paper

BREWER’S CORNER ON THE JUDGEMENT OF CASK BEER by C. ANDY BLACK In case you didn’t hear, Yorkshire In real terms, we not judging an IPA Square hosted a truly unique beer as an IPA or saying that an oak chip competition in November at our Cask’s addition in cask was not correct - we Not Dead Fest. Weirdly enough it are looking for delicious, moorish cask was a competition about one of the beer in any form the brewer creates. oldest means of serving beer - cask Anything can make a great cask beer if beer, and it was the first, as far as I can it hits the right mix of smooth texture, tell, to ever happen in the US. While aromatic depth, harmonious flavor, competitions exist for all kinds of beer and superior drinkability. As cask things, none are specifically about service changes the flavor profile of all the intrinsic qualities of cask beer, beers it is up to the brewer to decide rather they focus on the post-Michael a given beer will change such that it Jackson taxonomy of beer styles and is positively or interestingly changed, derivatives thereof. This may not seem original style be damned and additions like much of a leap but stick with me can be used in a considered way. on this. Tomm Carroll and Evan Price Photo Credit: Matthew Garcia @MomentsInBeer Overview note, they are welcome to utilize cask Also of consideration, we all recognize The TL:DR version - an invitational additions though they will need to be the importance of cellarmanship and festival with only 30 slots available, Professional brewers will supply bagged and noted on the entry. its huge contribution to successful, then sorted into two loose categories. a firkin of their champion beer to delicious cask beer. In drawing up Those selected were chosen for both conduct sacred battle with 25-30 other Judging will be blind panels comprised this first round an evaluation model their general prowess in brewing champion beers. The competition is of professional brewers, Cicerones, for cask beer we have attempted to but also an educated guess that they to be kept simple - this is all about and BJCP certified judges who have remove elements that are entirely up may have the skills to put together a how well each beer performs as a been vetted and chosen for their to the cellarman such as grading the decent cask of beer - which is easier cask ale. Two categories with a top familiarity with cask ale and its foam. A lack of foam or lack of foam said than done for the uninitiated three in each, Trad Ale (Top prize nuances including both experimental stability will still receive a poor score brewer. As a cask beer zealot, I wanted the Lord of the Old School, 2nd is and traditional examples. in “Appearance” but it is weighted a competition that looked at the The Oh So Close, 3rd is The Nearly less. Judges will also need to be able Premise technical skill in selecting a finished Almost) and Abnormal Ale (Top prize to taste through varying carbonation beer suitable for cask service and how is the Magician of Weird, 2nd is The What sets this competition apart is levels within reason, tell the difference well they have prepared that beer. Oh So Close, 3rd is Nearly Almost). that we are evaluating entries for between Northern and Southern style The two categories are to capture a their success in representing the core pouring, and gravity pour versus beer Terrible cask beer is easily found snapshot of cask beer as it exists now qualities of cask ale which we identify engine. Lastly, in order to even the across LA and the brewers only have and give equal footing to classic cask as smooth texture, aromatic depth, playing field with a bit of consistency, themselves to blame for this. The ale and experimental flights of fancy. harmonious flavor, and superior we will use one lead cellarperson and absence of quality accounts (bars and We recommend brewers package one drinkability. This means evaluating not will prepare and serve all casks under restaurants) are an easy target. But of their most loved core brands for the beer in relation to a style as with their care. brewery taprooms on the other hand submission as it would best show off most beer competitions but rather the are purported as the brewery’s inner Categories the identity of the brewery and the brewer’s technical skill in selecting a sanctum where the intrepid beer fan sensory impact of cask. That said, they finished beer suitable for cask service and the brand loyalists can experience In order to celebrate the many great are welcome to produce something and how well they have prepared that the highest quality and the most historical beer styles while also special/unique/one-off but that is up beer. creativity. Yet bad concepts and poor to them and their schedule. Also of creating space for more recent beer production methods are rife when it innovations, we’ve broken up things comes to cask in the taproom. More into two categories. We believe that often than not, the beer is simply not ring-fencing beers with historical as good as a keg beer version and this value to our heritage as brewers is the is the fault of the brewer who selected best way of preserving them. Quality and packaged the beer, not an inherent modern materials and modern ideas flaw in cask beer. This competition and may change them, but styles like Bitter festival was intended to give a venue sing when they’re on cask and should for decent cask beer and celebrate be held up as prime examples of cask those who champion its creation and beer’s legacy. Additionally, folks are consumption. As such, I’ve decided to experimenting with non-traditional share with you a generous snippet of beer that is no less drinkable or how we constructed the competition harmonious and deserves to be and judging. recognized for its contribution to carrying on this wonderful beer format. Beer Paper | DECEMBER 2018 PAGE 19

SALES • LEASING • MANAGEMENT

Cask’s Not Dead judges Photo Credit: Matthew Garcia @MomentsInBeer Trad Ale - This encompasses the expected beers of Knuckle Fist Fight, Adjunct Porter with orange, current or recent British heritage but also smaller coconut, and vanilla. The Oh So Close (2nd Place) - American styles that are not massively hopped and Trustworthy Brewing’s Trustworthy IPA, West Coast do not contain packaging additions beyond dry hops, IPA with cask dry hop of Citra and Mosaic. The GRANGE HALL 39 finings, and/or primings. Nearly Almost (3rd Place) - Transplant Brewing’s Ocarina of Thyme, Adjunct Pale Ale, conditioned 2,718 SF • FOOD HALL ANCHOR OPPORTUNITY Buena Park Downtown Abnormal Ale - This is the catch-all for everything in the cask in marshmallows (a brilliant but insane else. From West Coast IPA to American Wild Ale, idea). My personal honorable mentions for this to traditional Biere de Garde, none of these styles category are Cellardor Ales’ Australopithecus (Wild would typically be found in a cask but that does not Ale) which is a proper wild beer on cask and a real mean they cannot meet our expectations of a cask treat and I hugely appreciate Kevin Osbourne’s beer, for instance a Munich Dunkel with a lower boldness in sending something which challenges carbonation level or a Double IPA with more base all of our expectations of what beer and especially malt presence and less aggressive hop character. cask beer should be. The other honorable mention is After all that, who came away with the hardware? Simmzy’s Porter (American Porter with cacao nibs) A well deserving group of folks, that’s for sure. The as the drinkability was immense and the cacao really joy of such a small competition is that the judges’ well integrated. decisions are a bit more transparent and good beers The winners of Trad Ale in order: Lord of the Old don’t get lost in the noise of hundreds of entries and School (1st Place) - Pizza Port San Clemente’s multiple tasting rounds. I sat on the medal round for Nerf Herder, Dark Mild. The Oh So Close (2nd PLAZA DEL OBISPO Abnormal Ale, and I can say I’ve hardly ever been Place) - Green Cheek’s Falling for Autumn, Oatmeal more excited by the quality of the cask beer. Stout. The Nearly Almost - Yorkshire Square’s 1,100-1,720 SF • RESTAURANT OPPORTUNITY The winners of Abnormal Ale in order: The Supreme Early Doors, Pub Bitter. Hooray! I won a thing! My San Juan Capistrano Magician of Weird (1st Place) - Smog City’s Bloody personal honorable mentions for this category are Inland Wharf’s Admiral Nimitz, ESB which had the superb body and aroma that should be expected of a SoCal cask specialist, and HopSaint’s Pure Intention, Pale Ale cask dry hopped with Ekuanot, as I love this beer and it is so satisfying that it translates to cask without any loss of character. Thank you so much to everyone who attended our exuberant celebration of cask beer and to all the participating brewers for their enthusiasm for helping to preserve this wonderful part of our brewing heritage. A huge shout-out to our day-of volunteers and my staff at YSB for all their support in having an easy, smooth, and enjoyable event, and DOHENY PARK to Bagby Brewing and Inland Wharf Brewing who loaned us a substantial amount of cask equipment VILLAGE CENTER and schlepped it all up to Torrance prior to the event. 1,619-2,692 SF • RESTAURANT OPPORTUNITY Andy Black is a cask ale vanguard and the head Capistrano Beach brewer of Yorkshire Square Brewery, a modern British-style brewery in Torrance which offers 714.446.0600 Andy Black with Eddie Padilla and Jonathan Porter a wide selection of historical and contemporary www.svnvanguard.com of Smog City British styles in cask, keg, and bottle. Photo Credit: Matthew Garcia @MomentsInBeer All SVN® offices are independently owned and operated PAGE 20 DECEMBER 2018 | Beer Paper

YAEGER SHOTS CRUISING THE STATE STREET BEER MILE by BRIAN YAEGER

improvements, but the tourists who across myriad styles, he’s a font of didn’t know any different were still recipe ideas and inspirations, but at the treated to a better grade of beer. end of the day, while it’s quaint that there are still brewers who say they Zambo’s first brewing gig was at a only brew beer they want to drink, BJ’s in SoCal, then Karl Strauss, but Zambo’s hyper aware that a brewery it was at 21st Amendment in San is a business and businesses need Francisco where he really cut his teeth, customers. In this town, that means compiling some GABF hardware having Helles and other light beers along the way. He then got a higher-up and even the stout is a 4.5 percent gig at Speakeasy. But things got messy “session stout.” That didn’t stop him and Speakeasy became insolvent. from brewing a witbier designed to Zambo began looking at job openings taste like Chicken Jafrize where he in his field. “I wanted to help save an added ginger, cardamom, cinnamon, old, true, American brewery and it and peppercorns because the dish didn’t hurt to move with my wife to a was astrophysicist Steven Hawking’s beach community near family in L.A.” favorite (young Dave wanted to be an So the Zamborski family moved to astronaut until he grew too tall; space seaside Santa Barbara to start a family shuttles are cramped). All the same, (Zambo’s baby boy, Cooper, is almost Zambo excels at IPAs. His 93101, one). named for the ZIP code, is brewed for If I were the one starting a brewery, locals. His hazies are brewed for the I’d want someone like Zambo to be patrons who go around to hundreds of my brewer. He’s beyond competent breweries all seeking the same-tasting

Brewmaster Dave “Zambo” Zamborski Photo Credit: Brian Yaeger Last month I covered not the general beer category with their first barrel- Santa Barbara taproom scene, aged experiment, just as the technique but, specifically, the ones from was picking up steam. That was 2006 Draughtsman Brewing’s second tasting and the well of medals ran dry ever room to the 30 handles at Finney’s since. The Brew Co’s reputation fell Crafthouse comprising State Street’s off. It became mostly a spot for tourists beer mile. I mentioned that Night rather than for locals. The Trellas Lizard Brewing was Santa Barbara’s held on for another decade. Then this newest brewery, but that title was summer, the high season, the bills were short-lived. Opening just a block rumored to have gone unpaid. Now, away, let’s welcome The Cruisery, SB Brew Co is gone. established November, 2018. But a one way, it’s a re-opening since it’s not just The Cruisery opens this month the same address but the same brewing courtesy of Aron Ashland, owner system that first went online as Santa of Santa Barbara Wine Therapy, Barbara’s original brewery—Santa located three blocks up State Street. Barbara Brewing Co —in 1995. That’s right, Ashland is a wine guy. In a refreshing way, he doesn’t feign After 23 years, owners Wayne and Cicerone-level knowledge or even Michelle Trella had a good run. beergeekdom. He’s just here to save More or less. When they opened, the city from losing a brewery and it was during the second wave of ensure, from an operational standpoint, microbreweries and unlike most, they it turns into a sustainable business made it through. A decade later, SBBC via elevating the dual beer and food earned Santa Barbara’s first GABF programs in order to win back locals. medal—gold—for a dubbel. A year Which is why Ashland prudently kept later, the brewpub earned another gold on Dave “Zambo” Zamborski, the medal, this time in the American IPA Brew Co’s brewmaster who moved category (the first year there were more down from to right than 100 entries). They three-peated the wrongs. SB locals may not have the next year (silver) in the barrel-aged come back in droves to notice the Beer Paper | DECEMBER 2018 PAGE 21 beer. Sorry, that’s my personal bias was devising the concept for his seeping in. But I will also interject new brewpub, he and his partner that as a local, I didn’t frequent the brainstormed concepts and names. Brew Co but am excited about the They kept coming back to beach rebirth. It’s an evolution. Out with the cruisers and flip-flops. It’s an aesthetic burgers and fish’n’chips, in with the that deeply influences the new décor prosciutto-wrapped steamed asparagus and vibe. It’s a spot with cruisers in and flat breads. mind, both the two-wheeled kind and the peeps that pedal them. It’s a Actually, it’s that thing that happens place locals will want to cruise to and when a caterpillar morphs into a Ashland’s immediate goal is to offer a butterfly. There wouldn’t have been big bike parking lot, not just the poles a Cruisery—more on that name in a designed for locking up a bike or two. sec—without SB Brew Co. But there’s So that’s where the name comes from. no denying that what emerges from a I remarked that it’s sure better than the chrysalis is more attractive than the Floppery or the Flop House. thing that sauntered into it. All in all, Santa Barbara is now home The Cruisery in Santa Barbara Photo Credit: Brian Yaeger It’s why the IPA on tap for The to seven breweries, soon to be a dozen Cruisery’s premier is called Batch 1. if you count satellite tasting rooms. It’s not 93101 IPA or Zambo’s old The greater SB metro including Goleta Haley Street Hop (an IPA designed to and Carpinteria means there are 15 encourage tourists or anyone really breweries. Most are worth the drive up to venture off State Street and down from LA. One is worth the ride from Haley Street toward the newer craft your nearby neighborhood. breweries you’d never know about if you never left State) or anything else Brian Yaeger is the author of Red, leftover. And California Love is no White, and Brew and contributed to mere imperial red ale. It’s oaked and the Oxford Companion to Beer. If he’s features pinot grapes because The not writing for beer publications he’s Cruisery is in the heart of wine country planning beer festivals. Along with from Ashland, a wine guy. his wife and son (I.P.Yae.) he recently moved to (and is learning to surf in) Back to the name. When Ashland Santa Barbara.

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