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Trento & the

Why Go? Trento...... 306 While they’re not ’s tallest mountains, the Dolomites’ red-hued pinnacles are the country’s most spectacular, Rovereto...... 310 drawing a faithful fan club of hikers, skiers, poets and fresh- Brenta Dolomites...... 311 air fanciers for at least the last few centuries. Val di Non & Val di Protected by seven natural parks, the two semi- Sole...... 314 autonomous provinces of and Alto of- Val di Fiemme...... 315 fer up a number of stunning wilderness areas, where Val di Fassa...... 316 adventure and comfort can be found in equal measure. Wooden farmhouses dot vine- and orchard-covered valleys Bolzano (Bozen)...... 317 and the region’s cities – the southerly enclave of Trento, the Merano (Meran)...... 323 Austro-Italian Bolzano and the very Viennese Merano – are Parco Nazionale easy to navigate, cultured and fun. From five-star spa resorts dello Stelvio...... 326 to the humblest mountain hut, multi-generational hoteliers ...... 327 combine genuine warmth with extreme professionalism. Alpe di Siusi ...... 329 Nowhere are the oft-muddled borders of Italy’s extreme & Alpe north reflected more strongly than on the plate: don’t miss di Fanes...... 332 out on tasting one of Europe’s most fascinating cultural juxtapositions. Val Pusteria...... 333 When to Go Bolzano Best Places to Eat °C/°F Te mp Rainfall inches/mm 30/86 8/200 ¨¨Scrigno del Duomo (p309) ¨¨Zur Kaiserkron (p321) 20/68 6/150

¨¨Paradeis (p324) 10/50 4/100 ¨¨Restaurant Ladinia (p333) 0/32 2/50

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through schnitzel schnitzel through and spätzle and knödel (p333). Pusteria taly’s most elegant elegant most Italy’s along wines white the Weinstrasse (p324). by the endless green green the endless by the Alpe of pastures di Siusi (p329). the apple-clad hills di Sole the Val of (p315). beneath palm trees trees palm beneath peaks and snowy Merano at Terme (p324). mettle on a mettle via vertiginous in (p313) ferrata Dolomites. the Brenta a 9 8 7 6 5 4 3

2 Highlights Dolomites 1 & the Trento high-altitude appetite appetite high-altitude then on the slopes, the fine-dining hitting Alta of spot hot (p332). Badia above Bolzano’s Bolzano’s above on one streets pretty cable three its of cars excellent modern excellent and contemporary in art collections Rovereto’s MART (p311). on spritz Veneziana in piazza a frescoed (p309). Trento to & the Dolomites & the Dolomites Highlights

Tren 304