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Kalasin, Writes Khetsirin Knithichan ,, : _ , .. ., .. ,.. --The Nation. October 30, 1999. p. cl The Forgotten Heart Of Isaan food is eaten with relish, but the region itself is forgotten. In an attempt to put it on the tourist map, TAT is promoting Roi Et, Maha Sarakham and Kalasin, writes Khetsirin Knithichan. hen it comes to food, Isaan is famous for its variety, taste and Thung Kula ADnghai -an area of nearly two spices that include som-tarn million rai that comprises five provinces - (spicy papaya salad), kai yang Surin, Roi Et, Maha Sarakham, Buri Ram and w(barbecued chicken) and khao niew (sticky Yasothon - is gradually becoming rich and fer- rice) on the regional menu. But in the realms tile due to development projects by the gov- of tourism, the largest region' in Thailand ernment and the non-government organisa- doesn't seem as appealing as the cuisine. tions (NGOs). Dry, flat and poor are words that often Although the two main Khmer sites Ku spring to the mind when Northeastern Thai- Phra Kona and Ku Karingh in Roi Et are not as land is mentioned to potential travellers. well preserved as Bhanom Rung Stone Shrine But why? Isaan is rich in culture and home or Phimai, they are still worth a visit. to Ulree world heritage sites - Ban Chiang in Ku Phra Kona in Suwannaphum, consists of Udon Thani province, Bhanom Rung Stone threeprangs (stupas) built on a laterite foun- Shrine in Bud Ram and the Phimai Stone dation; but since 1928, Ku Phra fina has Shrine in Nakhon Ratchasima. However, these become a part of Wat Phra Kona and unfor- sites are located in Northern and Southern tunately, the main prang has been neglected. Isaan - it's the heart of Isaan that appears to Sadly, there are also'several lintels aban- be a forgotten land. doned on the ground - one featuring God "Inviting tourists to the cenne of Isaan is like Narai mounted on a garuda and another with trying to transform a stone into a diamond," Shiva mounted on an ox. This site is believed says Jirawat Janjampa, manager of the Thun- : have been built in the Khmer style called der-Inter Service tour company in Khon Kaen. "Bapuan" and dates back to 1017-1087AD. To counter this, the Tourism Authority of Xu Karingh in Kaset Wisai district is in bet- Thailand (TAT)'s Northeastern Region 3 is ter condition and the site is surrounded by a attempting to promote Roi Et, Maha Sarakham horse shoe-shaped moat. Inside the central and Kalasin as a destination for eco-tourism prang is a linga or phallus and several lintels and a number of tour agents and journalists carved in the form of Shiva mounted on the were invited to the area to see for them- Erawan - the 13-headed elephant. selves. Q & tb& It was raining when our air-conditioned bus entered Roi Et province, and horn Muang dis- hict'we moved on to Kaset Wisai and Suwan- naphum districts to visit the Khmer remains. The 36 kilomene road from Kaset Wisai (45 km from Muang district) to Suwannaphum was smooth, and lush geen rice paddies in l'hung Kula Ronghai snetched as far as the eye could see on either side of the road. mountain and arriving on the evening of the Realising that archaeological sites in them- full moon, we were welcomed with traditional selves are simply not enough to attract large dancing and genuine hospitality. numbers of tourists, the TAT in cooperation The villagers offer their homes to guests and with GRlD (The Grassmot Integrated Devel- you can stay overnight - an experience that will opment Foundation), have come up with a certainly be etched in your memory In the variety of eco-tourism ideas. morning, you are sewed local dishes for break- We visited the "Plant Group" centre in Kaset fast, and then offer food for the monks - a- Wasai - which involves some 500 villagers scene of perfect harmony as they walk in file from Roi Et, Surin and Si Sa Ket - who pmduce with their shnmbes making 3 beautiful con- a variety of cotton products using natural trast against the deep penof the rice paddies. colom. Visimrs can learn 'hands-on'how m dye As I walked amund the village, I noticed cotton and buy products at reasonable prices. that the wooden houses are giving way to con- In Baan Nam Aom, we watched how the vil- crete structures. The balance between pre- lagers prodhce khao mao (rice kernels roast- serving their culture and adjusting their way ed and ground up) and kayasat (a kind df of life to match the visitors' lifestyle is some- sweet made fmm rice, beans, nuts, sesame thing the TAT should monitor carefully. seed and honey). The locals are happy to teach Pattana Nairua, the director of Business anyone how to make these sweets and it's a Development of N S navel & Tours Co, said great experience for urban dwellers. that as only a handful of tourists are current- ly interested in eco-tourism in central Isaan, he GRID'S itinerary is designed to the cost tends to be high. ensure that if you come to Roi Et in 'The distance between each tourist attrac- T May-June, you can plant rice with local tion is considerable," he added. "And to be fanners and in November-December, when the honest, even selling three mps to lsaan a year rice paddies turn golden, you can also help could be regarded as success." Personally, I with the harvest. We left Roi Et and headed for think it would be worth every single baht. Maha Sarakham province's Na Dun dismct. Our destination was the Walai Rukhavej A typical lsaan house is on display at the Walai Rukhavej Botanical Research Institute, Maha Sarakham province. GRID (The Grassroot Integrated Dcvelopnlent Foundation) in Kaset Wisai district of Roi Et offcrs a varletv of eco- tourism programmes. The itinerary includes a visit to Ku Kasingh, Ku Phra Kona, and rice paddies in Thung Kula Ronghai, Baan Nam Aom, the Plant Group and much more. bmm November to January, a bike trip to see the rice paddies of Thung Kula Ronghai before harvest time is being organised. Accommodation is Bt50 each in a dormitory and Bt300 per night sharing a room. For more information, call 01-974 2339 or fax (043) 589 338. Walai Rukhavej Botanical Research Institute (WRBRI), Maha Sarakham province's Na Dun district, presents a one-day-and-two-night programme at Bt850 -.per person (a minimum of four persons). The trio offers a visit to Isaan Livinz ~useum:bai see suu khwan (a traditiinal welcoming ceremony), local cultural performance, a gala dinner with traditional dishes, a nature trail through the herb and bamboo gardens in the morning. For funher details, phone (043) 723 539 or 797 048. Phu Thai Village offers a programme for group vis~tsincluding one night's accommodation, bai see suu khwan, three local meals, and a visit to Tad Yao and Tad Sueng Waterfalls. The cost is Bt700 each for a group of 5-9 people, Bt6OO each for a group of 10- 19 people and Bt500 for a group of 20 people or more. Contact the village head at (043) 819 500 or TAT'S northeastern Ku Phra Kona's main prangis beingrenovated with region 3 at (043) 244 498-9. concrete to house the Buddha images. Villagers of Baan Nam Aom demonstrate how to make the delicious Thai dish klrao mao. .
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